Daily O

Rampur ke Andarsey: The gorgeous, crisp, golden-fried sweet is typically monsoon on your plate

Delicious andarsey, once made with rain water, deep-fried in large kadhais brimming with ghee, are inextricably linked with the smell of wet earth, songs of monsoon loves and Indian longings.

They came in cheap, unattractive pink cardboard boxes. Shrivelled disks, dotted with sesame seeds — an unappetizing sight that hardly merits any gastronomic yearning.

Yet, my Nani and a gaggle of aunts, congregating for the summer break with their brood, would send fervent demands for Mumtaz Bhai’s andarsey to be sent post-haste from Rampur, along with the essential monsoon paraphernalia. The requirements included succulent langdas, bright green and red kacchi bangles for the married daughters and daughters-in-law and hand-dyed, crinkled cotton chunris for all the girls.

The andarsey — lovingly refried and resurrected to their juicy crispness — were served at the barsati singing sessions, watching the rains pound the brick courtyard.

paintingThe wait and the celebration run through time in India. (Photo: Wikipedia)

The Rampuris, with their latent agrarian consciousness, engage intensely with the monsoon. There is a subculture

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