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E.F. Norton
Lieutenant-Colonel Edward Felix Norton, DSO, MC was one of the finest mountaineers of his day and a key figure on early Everest expeditions. Born in Argentina in 1884, Norton was the grandson of Al...view moreLieutenant-Colonel Edward Felix Norton, DSO, MC was one of the finest mountaineers of his day and a key figure on early Everest expeditions. Born in Argentina in 1884, Norton was the grandson of Alfred Wills, one of the founders of the Alpine Club. Wills built a chalet above Sixt in the French Alps where Norton spent several holidays, discovering a love for mountains and honing his climbing skills. As a young officer, he served with distinction during the First World War, and later spent time in India, gaining a familiarity with the country, its peoples and languages. During the 1922 Everest expedition, he made the first summit bid with George Mallory and Howard Somervell. Climbing without supplementary oxygen, they reached 26,985 feet - a record height. Norton returned to Everest in 1924, as deputy leader, but found himself in charge after General Bruce was taken ill. After severe weather twice forced a retreat, Norton launched a summit bid with Somervell. Continuing alone after Somervell was forced to stop, Norton reached 28,126 feet - less than 1,000 feet from the summit, and another record height. A few days later, as he lay recovering at Camp IV, he bade farewell to Mallory and Andrew Irvine as they set off for their fateful climb. Norton was praised for his leadership, and for his handling of the aftermath of Mallory and Irvine's disappearance, and in 1926 he was awarded the Founder's Gold Medal of the Royal Geographical Society. The expedition over, Norton returned to the army, with further postings in India and England, and was acting governor of Hong Kong from 1940 to 1941. He retired with the rank of lieutenant general in 1942 and settled near Winchester, where he died in 1954, aged seventy.view less