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    Chow Italy: Eat Well, Spend Less (Florence 2014)
    Chow Italy: Eat Well, Spend Less (Florence 2014)
    Chow Italy: Eat Well, Spend Less (Florence 2014)
    Ebook93 pages39 minutes

    Chow Italy: Eat Well, Spend Less (Florence 2014)

    By Christina Baglivi Tinglof

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    About this ebook

    If you're traveling to Italy in search of an authentic culinary experience but don't want to break the bank, then skip those expensive ristoranti and head straight to the nearest trattoria, those unassuming mom-and-pop eateries where you'll find home-cooked, regional cuisine for a price that any traveler can afford. Chow Italy (Florence 2014) will guide you to more than 60 trattorie in seven neighborhoods throughout the city where the art and beauty of Brunelleschi and Michelangelo are around every corner. Each trattoria listing contains the address and hours of operation, a description of the eatery's ambiance as well as chef's specials, plus a map to help guide the way. Take Trattoria da Sergio just off the Piazza San Lorenzo, for instance, where you can dig into a bowl of ribollita, a hearty Tuscan bread and vegetable soup for a mere €5. Or, if you find yourself hungry after touring Piazza Santo Spirito, then head to Trattoria La Casalinga where you can score a slice of the best Italian meatloaf ever. The price? A mere €8. With Chow Italy (Florence 2014), you eat well but spend less.

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherChristina Baglivi Tinglof
    Release dateJun 20, 2014
    ISBN9781310086984
    Chow Italy: Eat Well, Spend Less (Florence 2014)
    Author

    Christina Baglivi Tinglof

    As an Italian-American growing up in her grandfather's pizzeria at the Jersey Shore (anyone remember La Grotta in Long Branch?), Christina Baglivi Tinglof learned what good, regional Italian food was from an early age. She soon turned her love of Italian food, writing, and photography into a career. Her travel features have been published in the Los Angeles Times, the Chicago Tribune, the Boston Herald and dozens of other newspapers. She’s also the author of five books including Northern Italy: A Taste of Trattoria, her first guidebook and the inspiration for this e-book series.

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      Book preview

      Chow Italy - Christina Baglivi Tinglof

      CHOW ITALY:

      Eat Well, Spend Less

      Florence 2014

      Christina Baglivi Tinglof

      Cover Design and Maps by Kevin Tinglof

      Text Copyright ©2014 Christina Baglivi Tinglof

      All Rights Reserved.

      Smashwords Edition

      ISBN: 9781310086984

      No portion of this e-book may be reproduced in any manner without the permission of the author.

      www.chowitaly.com

      Table of Contents

      Introduction

      Welcome to Florence

      Near Piazza San Lorenzo

      Near Santissima Annunziata

      Historic Center: Duomo, Piazza Della Signoria, and the Uffizi

      Near Santa Croce

      Near Santa Maria Novella

      Near Pitti Palace, Boboli and Bardini Gardens

      Near Piazza Santo Spirito

      Menu Translation

      About the Author

      Restaurant Index

      Introduction

      When my husband and I headed to Italy for the first time more than 20 years ago we were young, in love, and painfully broke. Before we boarded our plane, however, my Italian uncle took me aside. In his endearing accent he said, "Forget eating in ristoranti—they’re too expensive for your budget. Instead, see the real Italy and eat where Italians do. Go to a trattoria."

      We took my uncle’s advice and so should you. Chow Italy is dedicated to those honest little eateries and the special dishes for which they’re renowned. Look past the mismatched silverware and plates, the often sparse dining room décor, and discover what Italians have known for generations—family-run trattorie (and their equally inexpensive cousin, the osteria, or inn) offer simple, delicious, regional dishes at inexpensive prices. In these dining jewels, two can feast on many courses, with plenty of wine, for half the cost of a typical ristorante.

      The problem with a trattoria is that finding one is like playing a game of hide and seek. The best ones, frequented by locals, are hidden in residential neighborhoods, off the tourist track. We found plenty, however, by following the aroma of garlic down side streets, under laundry lines strung across alleyways, and past televisions blaring soccer games. Looking between a meat market and a fruit stand in a small piazza we’d often find a bright awning with our favorite new word—Trattoria!

      The majority of patrons in trattorie are casually dressed families, often with infants and grandparents in tow. Young children inevitably fall asleep in their chairs, while the adults continue to talk, laugh, and sing until closing time. It’s not unusual for the owner, who is probably also the chef, to bring out Sambuca and share the strong, licorice-tasting liquor with his customers at the end of the evening.

      Money Matters

      Prices on the menu posted outside of each trattoria told us if the establishment was economically feasible for us. Our goal was to keep a three-course meal for two people plus a liter of vino della casa, or house wine, for around €50. (A three course meal means each person has a primi or first course, a secondi or second and either one antipasto or appetizer before the meal or one dessert to split after.) You might spend way less or you may spend a bit more—it all depends on your appetite! Remember, too, that prices in big tourist cities such as Rome may run a bit higher than those in smaller, less visited cities such as Parma.

      In every trattoria, you’ll also notice two charges that might be added to your bill, regardless of what you order. However, these charges vary from place to place. Pane e coperto (cover charge) means: If you sit down and we bring bread to your table, we’ll charge you. The cost is usually one or two Euro per person. The second charge, servizio (service charge or tip), runs about 10% but many trattorie omit it. Why? Because most Italians don’t tip. Unlike the United States, Italian waiters and waitresses are paid a living wage and get government health benefits. Furthermore, the service charge is often already built into the price of the food. So, if servizio is not included in your bill, don’t feel compelled to tip but leaving a few extra Euros on the table as you leave would be a nice gesture especially if you enjoyed a great meal with friendly service.

      Follow the Crowd—With the Maps

      After a trattoria passed our price test, we analyzed the clientele inside. A large crowd, laughing and drinking, is always a good sign. I’m convinced that for a trattoria to have exceptional food the customers must be Italian—they know their restaurants. So, don’t be shy about asking a native for his favorite trattoria. The owner of our pensione in Rome confided, Try Da Giovanni not far from the Vatican. It’s tiny but cheap and very good. The food, service, and authentic atmosphere were so enchanting that we ate there several times. Our investigative work had its flaws, though. During a visit to Venice, we sampled a dozen trattorie and foolishly relied on

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