All Tied Up: A Beginner's Guide To Collecting Neck Ties by Caroline Y Preston by Caroline Y Preston - Read Online
All Tied Up
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A guide for lovers of these beautiful little textile works of art..........
An inexpensive little guide for those starting to collect neck ties. It includes the history of neckwear from ancient times to the present day and gives general information on collecting, where to buy, storing and caring for ties. The guide features coloured pictures and details of more than 400 ties and associated neckwear items from the authors own collection.

Published: Caroline Y Preston on
ISBN: 1370566050
List price: $2.99
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Acknowledgements

Chapter 1 – Introduction

This guide is only meant to be an inexpensive short beginner’s guide to assist those starting up a collection of ties and should you become a more serious collector, or have a large eclectic collection, then I would recommend consulting some of the other more excellent in depth reference books currently available for further information.

Although over the centuries there have been many types and name for men’s neckwear I have chosen for ease to simply refer to all neckwear in this guide as a tie.

Collecting ties is not a new hobby and it was particularly popular during the 1930’s, 40’s and 50’s particularly in the USA, where they even had tie collector and tie swapping clubs. Several prominent personages are known to have had tie collections including Edward VIII, the Stork Club’s Sherman Billingsley and the actor Danny Kaye.

There are several reasons as to why ties have lost their popularity in the 21st Century and why men are ceasing to wear them, the main being the current corporately introduced casual fashion trend for dress down days and wearing open neck shirts without a tie; even for business and formal wear. This in turn has left some men feeling they have to conform and abandon their ties to be seen as young and trendy. Others reasons are more practical including comfort and health and safety implications, particularly in the work place. Some men, including Richard Branson and the late Prince Claus of the Netherlands have aired views that they think of ties as being shackles symbolising submission and slavery and that by wearing them they would be conforming to the views of an elitist society.

Ties, whether you like them are not are up there with socks and handkerchiefs as the most popular gifts for men and you can be certain that most men will have owned at least one tie during his lifetime, even if it was seldom worn.

Since 2003 Croatia has designated 18 October each year as the national Cravat Day to enable Croatians to celebrate an element of their national heritage, as they believe that their 17th Century mercenaries pioneered the introduction of this style of neckwear.

There is much conjecture as to how cravats (or cravates if you are French) got their name, although it is generally thought that the word derives from the French corruption of the name Croat (which is a native of Croatia) researchers have found that the word appeared in French before the Croatians arrival in France in the 16th Century and think it more likely that the name came from the French word rabat (which means a hanging collar). Others think the name came from Turkish or Hungarian origins, whatever the source we can’t get around that fact that they were popularly worn worldwide for hundreds of years before the invention of the modern long tie.

You may find it odd, that as a woman, I collect men ties but as a collector of vintage fashion I became entranced by the roaring 1920’s scene on a 1970’s Jean Patou tie and just had to have it. After my first purchase, whilst wandering around vintage fairs, I began to notice other ties with super graphics on them and yet another of my collections was born.

My First Tie Purchase – 1970’s French Silk Tie By Jean Patou

After being quizzed several times by male stallholders when I ask them about ties, I now jokingly retort that I am actually acquiring a man in instalments, starting with the tie. That usually makes them smile and more willing to help me find the ties I am looking for.

Chapter 2 – Information For The Tie Collector

2.1 Antique, Vintage & Retro, What’s The Difference?

To be classed as an Antique an item has to older than 100 years whereas Vintage items are between 25 and 100 years in age. Retro items are new items which look back to the past and may be copies of, or highly influenced by, items from a previous decade.

2.2 How To Spot A Quality Made Tie

Tie manufacture and shape has changed enormously since the 19th Century when a tie would have been made of a single piece of material, usually silk or linen, which was folded in a variety of ways, depending on the style of tie. Today Langsdorf style ties are usually constructed by cutting three individual outer pieces of the same material at a 45% angle this gives better elasticity and shape retention. Inside the tie is an inner lining (sometimes made of wool) which gives the tie its thickness and helps it keep its shape and as a general rule a thick tie usually means it is a better quality tie.

Better made ties also usually have a bar tack stitch again for shape maintenance and if your tie has one, the stitch will be on the reverse of the tie where the inverted V is. Another indication of a well made quality tie can be found by gently peering up the reverse inside of the tie to see if it has a slip stitch which is a loose black thread. This thread enables the tie fabric to move along it without losing its shape whilst it is being worn.

A quality gentleman’s tie should be in proportion to his jacket lapel and shirt collar, which explains partly why the width of a tie has fluctuated during the years due to fashion. The modern tie is usually around 3.25" across at the widest point tapering off in width to the opposite end. Generally ties are usually between 52 and 58 inches in length (although