REPORT

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In what was deemed the seasons 'ultimate fashion crime, samples worth 'U5$65)000 ($84~~OOO) were

stolen, from. Marc Iacobss Spring/Summer 2012
collection while ilt was en route to London for at press showing, 'The compl:amy later tweeted a bounty offer: "Seen allY' chic 'truck drivers cruising around Europe dressed in '#SS12 Collections 'Get. a pte & call 2l2~.343~022.2.,Reward"
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Trained at Boston's School of Fashion Design, jackie Fraser-Swans Emerson label debuted with, breezy separates in. a COl01 lilac palette .. Sh f: s.ays, 0,f,,- . ,e ICO:W, .ecnon: aL""1:. ,can t- h.ro'w 1LS th Il ., ' .c.JJIlif: _':'. :, a curve ball from, time tOI time and :n'f"s up to. .id .h . us to: decu 'le WI, e ,t-'h' 't·· .. do __ e , .'.d- to er ,ogo '. own" th .r'03.,1- ,0
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thunder at Carolina Herrera auld Prabal Gurung with her

outrageous get-ups, A fashion line is ,:111€ i reporter dlviIn the WOI_ k '1' th <S~
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Leave it to Pippa to ke'ep the Middleton flag flying high in the- styl e stakes, Kates little, sis
was spotted at Temperley London, showing off toned gams in, a prin ted In, i

It was said that Kane's beautiful creations brough some.of fasluons most notorious }' demanding to their' tears, To 'bring forth the lofty trompe l'oeil spectacle, the Scot invented an organza crafted from aluminium wh.ich, he festooned VJiII~_ 'i 0' .al app .q leS,. Th €: result: smartly cut shifts to~ last this sea son and b .a;;i'Y·' ond
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The paparazzi had a field day when . ... 1] Camp bell turned aor Be)TOJ[}iCf' mum and ina Knowles dropped in to present the London premiere fair House of Dereon, The pregnant 'Love On Top'hitmaker (she gave birth to daughter H;1110=; '11'1' in J anuary) still managed '1, out ... bling her celebrity guests in a.glittery pantsuit

up at 'Iopshop 'Unique with :8rn. enormous bauble on her ~I' d'" ll r in g'~ fin iO~~'ii!'". .he s"u p' erm ,,', ·eJl., who's been dating Russian,
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Doronin since 2008~uprooted to, Moscow last. year,

Charlotte Free ruled the

run.ways with. iller neon
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relationsh ip, 1dJ~e m.y· d hair pink. 311d I didn't care about anything anymore," the "L8-year= old hailed for h6I" e,d~gy

The kooky d.110 behind Meadham Kircnhoff paid homage to Courtney Love - Love

look-alikes took to t-he'catwalk garbled in cartoonlsh ensembles and doing tbe can- can ...
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and Stefano Gabbana , launched D&G·~and they shuttered mt to,
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through th·e mud in P '1-a"~d-: sh '1I " rts an ,1",.;: P nr'0: '. te d '1 d . tees - beer bottle .lll h an d~
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The finale to Raf Simons's

super-tight and -tiny kerchief outfits in. a riot of C,I010tll'"S;o,

"couture trilogy" :i11ustrates fuUy his partiality towards p ar ed-down, superb tailoring. To empbasise the white palette, hie even included four bridal gowns that would make modern day' Grace Kellys
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trademark gl.anlOlm! was

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Kylie Minogue at Emilie Pucci, Tayllior
Swift at Roberto Cavalli, Bianca Brandolini d'Adda at Dolce '& Gabbana

Spring/ Summer's relaxed mood went right to, the heads, Pick y:our crowning glory from the teased tops of Roberto Cavalli 'to half-wet looks at Alberta erretti to tousle d tresses b!y' Emili 0 Pucci, Ready Troubled starlet Lindsay Lohan has a new love, She was caught cavorting-around Milan hand-in-hand and kissi n:g German design er 'Phi ipp Plein - whose lab el she endorses, "Lindsay is a highly acclaimed actress and model" cooed Plein, (~W€! be able to. create unique will

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images; refined andluxurious, but also full of s!ensl]],a,llimty:'

Gueci was charged for poaching models slated to appear during London Fashlon 'Week (which, took jpllaoe before Milan) bly' summoning them to

fittin,gs early, AmnO'.ll.,gthe affected labels were Erdem, Todd Lynn", Temperley and Aquascutum, The crisis was exacerbated by Hurricane Irene in. New York, which led many models to miss their flights to, London,
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theatrical runway$~ Viktor ,E Iorsting and Rolf Snoeren had models streaming out £fO.1D, underneath. billowing poufy skirts of French folk, duo Brigitte, '\lV11'0 were 'perched above the 'r~1 TiJ:i"",aIV, m irrr~'JIll
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Alexander McQueen,
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Eventually, it was, all hype ..Kanye West's , debut carne across
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'BOTTEGA VENETA
[f you're spending ]1.10St of the day out, this. is the collection, to' start W,T .h. Perfect for gallivan tin g in the ci t)' arc- colour block frock s in lightweigh t m aterials like silk and chiffon. ,.', multi-coloured column . ihift reminds lIS of Yves Saint Laurent's Mondrian-inspired dress. but tile airy, body-skimming fabric 'is distinctively TO]'11as Maier, Versatile taupe coats and separates work on thei r own or wi th O~her pieces, allowing you to get away with only what s ~""\.I- /.;\ crinkl 'J l"O' 'I~"""·t.... d !'~el!'1:-1ia 'm d· S' '\ v. . .-;,_. ,d" ..t ..J'
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Phoebe Philo can do no wrong, Since taking ovr r in ,J008~she has garnered for t11e label new clou t wi th her clea i-cut yet flattr ring creations. c j' r " 1t neeed,e i to b quite simpre am d very .' '.' ret t '. be real ~'~ said Philo. For Resort, she 0'[ .ce again explored the depths of a woman's wardrobe, but vier -d awav frC111her monochromatic minir aalism. A struct ired blazer benef ted from the Oriental treatment with :umptuous brocade a deep ro~@1yellow, while an j.. -Iine skirt shed, its ladylike sobriety with a front slit cur high" 10' herwise '1 three- r·ieee suit: carne crowded with look-at-me 'Jural print, heavy zippers and quilted shoulders. BI t Philophile need, not fear that there's LOO much new ground to cover' - the dcsizner's siznature tunic ... and-trousers co'mbfJ~~~1 plus the per mnially chic white double-b jacket and loose pleat ..front trousers, will you strutting stylishly for another seas "n;··~~~~~~.
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Deviating from the Studio 54 references of Autumn/Winter (read: richjewel h.. and ues billowing chiffon gowns), 'rida. Giannini's vision for Resort veered more towards Charlie Girl than Bianca Jagger on a Saturday night, The mderstated beige. ensembles thar opened the 8110\\7 were uncharacteristically subdued but it was all that Giannini requned to break into new' territory without straying too far, ortunately the rest of the collection spined. over with reds, purples and tangerines - all of which were distinctively Gueci ..The printed two-piece suit" a staple of many Resort Sl10'WS was reworked in lace-like Iloral, After a brief attempt t·[ lownplay sex appeal,~ ViiTe; were' thankfully brought 'back to the universe of glitz a:nd glamour again with a gold. column
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For many longstandir .g names ~ can be t difficult to avoid pitfalls of the tried-andtested .. Creative designer Christopher Bailey , has, however consistently reworked the heritage of Burberry and made it relevant for a new generation [of fashion- Iovers, An artisanal spin pre' ailed for this collection, W .th raffiawoven hats (porn porn included) and wooden beads stitched Onto, shoulders and shoes ..A p lethora [of playful hues - from ochre tOI green tel purple ~ were sprinkled amid favo nits like beige and black, Meanwhile, trench coats were made over with subtle details like beaded belts and a. patchwork-like leather panel over button holes Poised ',0 become a' .. " her 110l- eller, 0 meanwhile, were Seventies ..style flared pants to flatter every figure,

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., imed It s well known that Resort is aimed t .... . 'rawmg commercial profit, so the talented team opted fo a'"stro "'1] g' xillec. ti 0,: '1')1 that 'lti:r,a~· rable y ,.' '., wea ...t L .t 11~,Xl;U~iiOllS.Spilling over were .. .fluences from " the Sixties and Seven ties, as seen ill vibrant Dolour block: caftans printed jumpsuits that would appeal to Studio 5,4merrymakers ..A 'C11iffo'11 own with 'PillSSY bowwas amped up g further with chunky transparent resin bangles --;reminiscent of Tina ChOI\V~ The collection also had, a few playful moments, with ..flirty dro p -wais t d res ses in jewel to nes, _4 et at'] lie accents successfully took the pieces from beach to bar; but for a personal touch, add a bold beaded necklace,
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. lora]' \¥8lS still powerful for Riccardo Tisci, as he built on the gll rden theme from Autumn/ Winter ..' 'or Resort, ~ie digitally rendered prints 011 pieces for a 111!Ol~·futuristic 10'0 k. The silhouette became a lot more casual too. r" ith cropped knitted sweaters la.;e red. over form-fitting dresses logoed 'lanyard necklaces bearing at solitary key (for the club locker room, perhaps"), and fluorescen visors, While the Givenchy girls. were athletic, they were adept at bringing '1 the giatTIOIII' too. ,A,Uwhite outfits, including a shirt and column ... \ maxi skirt co m bo, resulted i,] el ongated ~ trim mer-loo king frames, B:ut eventuall y., the temptation. to marry sporty (:J1(1 dressy Vilastoo' great, giving rise 'to smart. touches like a luxe leather -lined ',.iso r.~

GIVENCHY

Kaiser Karl moved 11JS party to the Iuxurious Hotel d I] Cap Eden-Roc, which he describes a.s .''the 'Other side of paradise' . Especially since it wa: thronging with yo ung starlets .ike Blake Lively Clemence Poesy and Alexa Chung, all of whom were spotted 'in the front rO\\I" It turned OIClt to 'be a itting prelude to the clothes ~ a throwback tOI "the ...... QJaro_ou~r inherited from the J 950s Bathing suits in. contrasti ng blocks of black and. white were made for looking good while lounging by the pool and one was even finished with a dramatic diamond brooch ...Colours were interspersed throughout, meanwhile, in canary yellow skirt suits a'~lljd. a kaleidoscope of pa interly floral print, Heavily beaded embroidery juxtaposed the dark palette on a mermaid dress where Chanel's iconic comet flashed exuberan Jy. And in line with the Mademoiselle's high-l ow sen sibility, Lagerfeld not only mixed l)f ..C~.OlJS and costume jewellery but also matched e ~ ery richly detailed govvll with its O,\IVD masculine boxy jacl et. l
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NOVEMBER 20111 ~~··lJFr!ICli.E] 17'1

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TH EYSKENS' r--EORY

Turned out that Theory was the best career move for Olivier Theyskens, Loaded with pieces infused wi til his flair for ethereal this_ W'.",_al s u. C'_o'I.ll'e'·.· ." iO·..m C' r a fted to" lure I~ 0.'" ~·1 .... .-_ -',' ct ",. ,q1]. , "~~ ~ _l L~.. _".
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and silence critics once and for all; Models
stormed down the runway; loose hair flowing and donning mirrored sunglasses, Guaranteed

to arouse were slouchy little leather jackets, as well as acid, wash, denim that have been
resurrected as belted shorts and topped with white shirts unbuttonedwide at the neck under cool grey cardigans ~ A" sub ·'t'I' remin d er of Theyskens' addiction to beauty came in the form of an, ombre maxi dress, 'with, front slit to up-there for ~ maximum nnpact.
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Prad la conti nu ed her pen chant fo ~. lW,~, . '_ ,m~_ ladylike as models worked the runway in knee-length dresses 'with huge buckle 'belts and ,A-line skirts, infused, with trademark offbeat eccentricity Fans went wild for red lips, daisies an,d, polka dotted prints a ],a the 'CEl t and bir-d,motifs from past seasons Couples may' also suddenly find themselves in matching wardrobes with golf caps and studded 'boxy' jackets all borrowed directly from the mens Iine, Anr] depending ,011 how you see it, shoes may well be the 'biggest surprise here - instead of fantastical creations like towering. platforms, sensible stiletto pumps and bejewelled ..slingback sandals are the way t,o go,
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Y'VE'S", S···AINT' -LA"URE'NT
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One of the frontrunners for the creative director post at Dior, Stefano Pilati shored 'u,p

positive buzz 'with this delightful collection Like ,h'OW Galliano made the high-waisted sailor pants his trademark Pilati opted for
a nautical, theme, Puffy sleeves; which
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become a mainstay of Yves Saint Laurent. upped 'the flutter factor. And to save: the best

for last herounded tIP the display with lovely P1o,PP'Yprints abloom on rompers and, flowy frocks in the finale, lie even bravely subverted the classic trench with a red rendition, its wavy flap an ode to seafaring tradition,

FEATURE

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Shopping for Spring/Summer 2012 begins h ~k wr -"a trophy jacket, ByY~p Jieyirtg'"'th·

.hanel who first turn' ed the jacket into a statementmaking ga .ment '"Her iconic tweed ..piece, which attested to her philosophythat "a Chanel jacket is made for a wonl.a11 'W110 moves". . ;a'..' widely hailed. for liberating fema ~s from waist-constricting corsets. But it fell on a young Yves 'Saint Laurei r to the jacket ultimate grrrl power status, whosel 966 Le Smoking tuxedo has rema i11ed, OI~e of fashion's mos endt ring classicsYlt was always a success and I never had difficulty getting a smoking right, ' said the late designer, .Fast forward four decades, and the world's D10st watched WOlUle11 st:-,,, look to the jacket as a wardrobe staple,' ary Kate and Ashley Olsen have boy ~'kiend blazers. t.o dress ll..pl with stilettos and slim-cut nants or dress down with ..enim ' shorts and slouchy V\' rUt T-shirts, Offduty lDO::-' els like " -reja B eha Erichsen, meanw tile cop grunge chic with distressed T'-shirta under well .. o ~n w leather jackets. . ,ven the '..ver-elegt .. t n Gwyn .th Paltrow 1se.··a S]lUQ: jacket over ...... .her Balenciaga frocks .. 'I ere '.' Officie I susses lout f" ve key' jacket trends for Spring/Summer 2012: cropped, 'b,iazer. floral. feminine and glittery.
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Nearly every abel had its [own incarnation. 'Versace bedecked mts models in fierce studded stunners, 'while Burberry Prorsum s ve I·SiO'i s sported ..,gor,geOtl'~- tribal, pat ..enl····. , [G~a/Jt.~!j smart matador-in sp ired jack-et .l~ ,11 . 1140schin 0., Rosie lla Jardini '.1 Spanish. medley came through as one of the most frlern' :rabl. .'.·..rJl0ng the .. ilan ..hOH··.·,,, and th. ornate embroidery d 1 onderfully offsets its tongue-in-cheek tone,

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BLAZER
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Whether long an.d,lean in a neutral hue (Diam ",Von ' Furs .enberg) , crisp white and, nautical (Emporio Ar .. mani), or eve·n deconstructed (Y011j'i Yamamoto) expect a few surprising t .icks up its sJeeve thi s season, G~a;h': , cream pinstriped A blazer by Ralph Lauren. Synonymous witn American preppJ) panache, the label s classic boyish cuts are . ,till as' beloved as they.lell',(? 35' years llgO ,(~n Alit! if! ,H.all

78 I GO'FFICIEL

I MARCH 2012

FEMININE
Bid adieu to the u tili tarian and urban
warrior, Celebrate womanhood in fluid confections of dramatic tones (see Jean Paul ... Gaultier and Salvatore FerraaamotJ that fall softly -" on your curves, or revel
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in luxurious lovelies like
Nina Ricci's sumptuous silk boleros, £l~ji'''' .f..... A' J;'C'~,~[, ~'. I~·_. .r; I~ OJ" u!~· 114Q.." I~ red i~-' /hole
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FLORAL
What is Spring/Summer without blooms? Floral was power, as r-e'preSeIlb:;d by Dolce & Gabbana's cropped "ph,e:Do,~11Ie]10]1and Acne's see-through st IUll1 er, ,8almai 11,. 0 n the 0 the ~ hand, showed one in watercoloured blossoms, Gr.",,: A Sixties-style dandelion-prin: Jackel by Prada. Miuccia Prada stood' t1UI /ro'J1J the explosion of colour ~f(Jr her combination of' flattering silhouette, feminine sensibilittes and suner sh a,'~1"p--tail arino: jJ,a,;.:Cr IL.,,~
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jet, eke t by' A, lexander Mcilueen: Sarah Burton's delicate tou ·h softens her la I e men tor $ famously violent aesthetics; and shows her intuition; M ith blush pink tints and ida iniy peplum he m s.
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Get ready to shine in a bedazzling line- up of sequinned jackets ..Chanel's boxy beauty expressed ladylike style, Roberto Cavalli pulled off unabashed Ita] tan, glamour, while the very bold jumped straight into Givenchy'sr-l pe:P:'I~urn pletho_" v .._ ~.Jl ~IJ.. .. ':r['a·. Grl';all!~An art deco jacket bJ Gucci. In a nod to' Studio 54', art meets luxury as stripes {lye reworked in metallic python skin.
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