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MOSCOW
August - September 2012

Napoleon’s Borodino
Read the story of 1812 and Napoleon’s incredible defeat

Park Life

Free concerts, cycling, picnics and fun in Moscow’s best parks

August - September 2012 N o22 moscow.inyourpocket.com

Contents
Exhibitions
20 22 25 38 44 52 54 56 57 59 62 66 67

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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Hotels Restaurants Nightlife
Moscow never sleeps

Contents
Foreword
A word from our editor 4 5 6 8 10 11 14

Sightseeing Veliky Novgorod See St. Petersburg Shopping Business Directory Lifestyle Directory
Expat life, health and relaxation

News
What’s new in the city

Basics Getting Around
Planes, trains and automobiles

Language The Patriotic War of 1812
Napoleon’s greatest defeat

Maps Street Register Metro Map

Culture and Events
What’s on in August and September

moscow.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2012

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Foreword
Russians love celebrating their yubilei (anniversaries) and there’s certainly a lot of them going around. This year Russia has been marking a particularly big one - that of 200 years since the Napoleonic invasion of 1812. Inspired by the story of Napoleon’s defeat and its lasting impressions on the city we have devoted our feature this issue to retelling the incredible story. In our events chapter you can find out how you can relive Borodino (minus the death and destruction) this September, while in our sightseeing pages we’ve detailed places where you can get up to some Napoleonic sightseeing within the city. Those of you who are more gourmands than history buffs may also choose to mark the occasion with a slice of the traditional Napoleon cake. Basically a Russian version of the sweet French mille feuille, renamed by the Russians during the 19th Century the tort Napoleon is probably one of our favourite things on the Russian dessert menu. After many tireless taste tests in Moscow’s Russian restaurants these last months (all in the interests of research naturally), the In Your Pocket team finally granted Dacha na Pokrovke’s version the best. Of course we haven’t only had our heads stuck in books while stuffing ourselves with cake these last weeks. We’ve also been out taking advantage of the incredible weather by visiting all the best summer terraces, gardens and open-air bars we could find. Whether you are looking for coffee and cake, sizzling shashlik, pizza, fine dining, roof top views, beer gardens, the great outdoors, street café culture or even a swimming pool in an ex-bottle factory - we’ve got you covered. Whatever you get up to this summer; be it walking in Napoleon’s footsteps, stuffing your face with cakes and kebabs, sipping cocktails on a rooftop or keeping fit in one of the city’s beautiful parks remember to keep in touch with us. You can now catch all the latest Moscow news and events, read all the latest listings, as well as share your comments with us on facebook at www. facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket. Louise Whitworth, Russia In Your Pocket

News
The World of In Your Pocket
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New alcohol sales rules
This July the Russian government continued its attempts to crack down on Russia’s high rate of alcohol consumption with a series of new laws. The first victim of the new initiative has been the advertising industry with the new proposals banning alcohol advertising from TV, radio and the front and back pages of newspapers and magazines, in a move which some think could even extent to a full ‘media’ ban. The second victims have been late night beer kiosks. According to new rules the sale of beer, wine and alcopops is prohibited along with the sale of harder liquor between the hours of 22:00 and 10:00. At the time of printing wily shopkeepers were skirting the ban by offering free cans of beer when customers bought other products from their stores, although how long late night beer drinkers will be able to avoid the long arm of the law remains to be seen. It is still permitted to buy alcohol in bars and restaurants at night, provided the venue has the correct license.

Cover story
Our cover picture takes in the view over the roof terraces of the hip Red October Factory area towards the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour. Destroyed in the 1930s and rebuilt in the 1990s, the original cathedral was built in 1860 in memory of Russia’s war with Napoleon. Photo by Dreamstime. Editorial department
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Moscow In Your Pocket founded and published by OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket. Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A, russia@inyourpocket.com tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64, russia.inyourpocket.com Publisher Bonnie van der Velde, bonnie@inyourpocket.com General director Tanya Skvortsova, tanya@inyourpocket.com Accountant glavbuh@inyourpocket.com © OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket Published 6 times per year with supplements, No22, 01-08-2012, 60.000 copies © Maps the BCB-Group

It was 20 years ago this summerFYR MacedoniaIn that the first Albania Your Pocket hit the streets of Vilnius, Lithuania. Greece Since then, we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with Ghent, Belgium, the latest city to be pocketed) and the number of In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching an amazing five million. Always an innovative publisher, we have just launched a new version of our iPhone app, which can be downloaded for free from the AppStore. Search for ‘IYP Guides’ by name. To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket).
Editor’s note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Mосква В Твоем Кармане Учредитель и издатель: ООО «Красная Шапка» Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64 Главный редактор: Бонни ван дер Велде Отпечатано в ООО “МДМ-Печать”, 188640, Л.О., г. Вcеволожск, Всеволожский пр., 114 Заказ No. 59-10 Свидетельство о регистрации средства массовой информации Пи No. ФС77-32970 от 29.08.08 выдано Федеральной службой по надзору в сфере связи и массовых коммуникаций РФ. Цена свободная. Тираж 60 000 экз. No22. 01.08.2012

Austria Switzerland Slovenia Romania Croatia Italy Bosnia Serbia Bulgaria Montenegro Kosovo

AIESEC IC 2012
If you instantly deciphered the acronym in the title of this article then you are most likely one of the 60,000 current members of AIESEC or indeed one of more than 1 million AIESEC alumni. AIESEC (L’Association Internationale des Etudiants Sciences, Economiques et Commerciales) is the world’s largest student led organisation fostering links between students and the wider business community by facilitating international traineeships and exchanges. This year Moscow has for the first time the honour of hosting hundreds of AIESECERs from more than 110 countries at AIESEC’s 64 annual international congress. While the congress is only open to current AIESEC members, there will also be an AIESEC alumni event running concurrently for any former members looking to reconnect and get involved in the global village. To find out more about AIESEC and what they do, check out the official website ic2012.ru

Russian Olympic Hopes
This August the London Olympics 2012 are finally underway and after an extremely poor showing at the 2010 Winter Olympics, Russians are hoping that the summer Olympic team will finally return home with their heads high. The Russian team expect to take home some 25 gold medals and inch in on the Chinese and Americans at the top of the medal table ahead of the British hosts. They will be eyeing up big success in the wrestling after winning 11 medals in Beijing in 2008 (6 of which were gold), while tennis star Maria Sharapova is also hoping to get on the medal table after disappointments in the grand slams. Other disciplines which the Russians traditionally excel in include boxing, gymnastics and synchronised swimming. The biggest interest however lies in the track and field. Russians will be watching the outstanding champion pole-vaulter Yelena Isinbayeva particularly closely as well as the young high jumper Ivan Ukhov who has been successfully working hard to bring his career back into focus after turning up drunk to an event in Switzerland in 2009. As in previous years the Russian Olympic mascot for 2012 is expected to be the cute and cuddly big-eared Cheburashka. The Olympic team’s official kit has again been colourfully designed by the Russian sports brand Bosco, whose winter Olympic clothing proved particularly popular in 2010.

Uraza Bayram
On Sunday 19 August the month long Muslim fasting holiday of Ramadan finally ends. It is estimated that Moscow has between one and two million Muslims, most of whom hail from Tatarstan, Central Asia and the Russian Caucasus. For most Russian Muslims the grand Eid al-fatir feast holiday is known by its Turkic name Uraza Bayram. Usually the main hub of prayers and religious activity in Moscow is the Grand Mosque just off Prospekt Mira, which is currently undergoing major reconstruction to vastly increase its size. Although largely Tatar, the Grand Mosque and the larger Memorial Mosque at Poklonnaya Gora (metro Park Pobedy) accept Muslims from across the world. Some embassies such as the Malaysian embassy also usually organise their own celebrations for their citizens. For those looking to buy Halal products the mega-market chain Auchan stocks Halal food, as does the Tatar supermarket Bakhtele, although be sure to double check before buying. For news from the local Muslim community, check out the website www.muslim.ru.

Editor Louise Whitworth editor.mos@inyourpocket.com Layout & Design Malvina Markina design.russia@inyourpocket.com Research Ksenia Elzes, Nikolay Pozdnyakov research.mos@inyourpocket.com

Commercial department
Sales Manager Natalia Murgo +7 926 243 2032 natalya@inyourpocket.com To order issues Tanya Kharitonova sales.russia@inyourpocket.com

Jewish New Year
September is the beginning of the most important time of the year for the Jewish community. This year Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year, starts at night fall on September 16. The holiday marks an important time of reflection when people look back on the year that has passed and prepare for the ten days of repentance leading up to Yom Kippur the day of repentance which falls this year on September 26. If you are looking to attend a synagogue during the holiday Moscow has numerous synagogues, of which the one on ulitsa Bolshaya Bronnaya is probably the most international.

Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2012. Maps copyright the BCB-Group. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket.

Moscow In Your Pocket

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August - September 2012

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Basics
Every different country is different in their own way to paraphrase heavily from Tolstoy. Whether its unfamiliar sign verbage, table manners or a communications system that just seems slightly off. Given the Soviet imposed isolation in the not-so-distant past, a rapidly changing economic climate and the simple fact that Russia is the biggest country on the globe, it’s not surprising that it’s a bit quirkier than most. Never fear. We’ve got you covered on the essential do’s and don’t’s.

Basics
Making a Call
Calling Internationally
Phone cards are a a convenient way to make international calls at affordable costs and are available from various phone shops such as the bright yellow Evroset. To phone home you need to dial 8, wait a little, then 10, followed by the country code, city code and actual telephone number.

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Aeroexpress Airport Trains
The most reliable way of travelling to and from airports in Moscow is by Aeroexpress. Aeroexpress trains run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sheremetyevo (SVO) airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal and Vnukovo (VKO) airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal and Domodedovo (DME) airport. Each rail terminal is connected via the metro circle line. It takes 35–40 minutes to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow. Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress ticket counters or at automatic machines in the rail terminals, through the websites of partner airlines, travel agencies, and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow, or indeed almost any other region of Russia. A list of sales outlets can be found on the company’s website, where you can also buy an electronic ticket: www.aeroexpress.ru. Standard tickets cost 320Rbl for adults and 100Rbl for children between five and seven years of age. Children under the age of five travel for free. Business class tickets cost 550Rbl. Passengers can also buy tickets at the ‘Aeroexpress + Metro’ special fare, the cost of which is 350Rbl and includes a ticket for the metro. The first train departs at 05:00, with the last one departing at 00.30. Please note that depending on the time of day, trains run at thirty minute or one hour intervals. The Aeroexpress hotline is (+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls from within Russia are free).

Alcohol
While Russia is still the land of vodka, it’s also a country which loves beer - at any time. Day or night or on the way to work. Be ready to see drunk people anytime, anywhere. Russians drink more beer (pivo) than anything else. Vodka is cheap with literally hundreds of brands to choose from. Russky Standart Platinum, Diplomat and Zhuravly are pretty good. Locally brewed cheap staples for Moscovites are Sibirskaya Korona and Zolotaya Bochka. Sovietskoe Shampanskoe (Soviet Champagne) is the national party drink. Take note you cannot buy alcohol in stores between 22:00 and 10:00.

Calling within Russia

For calling within Russia or even within Moscow where there are different codes, simply dial 8 (from a landline) or +7 (from a mobile), then wait for a long tone, then the city code, then the number.
Russian city codes Archangelsk 8182/818 Irkutsk 3952 Kazan 8432 Moscow 495/499 Murmansk 8152/81522 Leningrad 813 Oblast Novgorod Novosibirsk Petrozavodsk Pskov St.Petersburg Vladivostok 8162/81622 3832 8142 8112/81122 812 4232

Registration
Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of your arrival in Russia. If you are staying in a hotel the hotel will usually register you within 24hours of your arrival and as the service is complicated a small fee may apply. Many tourist agencies can also register you for a price. If you are staying in another city after visiting Moscow, your hotel in that city will also register you again for however many nights you stay with them - it is the law for hotels to declare foreigners are staying with them. If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving Russia, ranging from paying a fine, to missing your flight. For more information see russia.inyourpocket.com.

Crossing the road
Unless you want to play chicken with your life, you need to learn this word переход! It means perekhod in Russian or underpass in English. When you see this sign above a tunnel, know that you can head safely under and cross under the street. Miss one and you can end up walking for another 200 or 300 metres. The busiest interchanges have around five different exits, entrances to metro stations and a ton of shops.

Foreigner prices
The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel, which is slowly dying out although at some theatres and museums, foreigners are still required to pay twice to 6 times more than Russians. If you have a document (propusk), which says you work or study in Russia, you are theoretically entitled to the local price.

Taxis
Official taxis. The powers that be are now hard at work
trying to better regulate the taxi industry and make the service better for you the passenger. However, as can be true anywhere in the world, taxi drivers can sometimes be unscrupulous and over charge you so to avoid conflicts over taxi meters etc try to agree on a price before hand. It is also a good idea to book a taxi in advance to ensure you get a reasonable price. If you need to get a taxi early in the morning, we would advise you to book it the night before. If you are looking to pick up a taxi at the train station, head to the RZD taxi booth - their official taxis have slightly higher than usual, but fixed, fares. Alternatively take your chances with the touts out front. If travelling to the airport 1,500Rbl is a perfectly reasonable fare. For shorter trips around the city centre expect to pay 300 - 500Rbl. For taxi companies see page 8.

Customs
For most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go to the GREEN (nothing to declare) channel and you do NOT need to complete the ‘Customs and Currency Declaration Statement’ upon arrival or departure (unless you are carrying thousands of dollars in cash with you). Any art works, icons etc that are over 100 years old cannot be taken out of the country. If you are in doubt about antiques you have bought get an ‘expert’s report,’ either from the Rosokhrankultura (Kitaigorodsky pr. 7, bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 495 660 77 30) or an accredited shop. Travelling to most countries you can legally take 200 cigarettes and 2 litres of hard alcohol out with you. To some countries such as Estonia, the allowance is less.

Internet Access and Mobile Phones
Internet access. Most cafes, restaurants and bars in Moscow have free wifi access or offer wifi for a small sum. Go inside buy a drink and surf the web. In most places you will need to ask for a password (parol) to logon. If you don’t have a laptop or phone that can access the internet, then you will need to head to an internet cafe - of which there are few in Moscow. One of the most central can be found at the entrance to Okhotny Ryad shopping centre, but note it is only open until 23:00. Mobile phones. You can use your mobile phone from home if your provider has a roaming agreement with a Russian mobile company. If you call with your mobile to a Russian number, you‘ll need to put in all the numbers, so for Moscow +7 495 followed by the number. To avoid roaming charges, you can get a Russian SIM card. They range in price starting from 200Rbl up to 400Rbl depending on the package. You’ll need to bring your passport to the store to register your new sim card and to put your old number onto a new sim card if you lose your phone. Note that outside Moscow your Russian sim will also be on roaming.

Be on guard!
Pickpocket places Watch out for pickpockets in busy downtown streets, markets and on public transport. A tried and tested trick is to block the entrances/exits of public transport and metro entrances (particularly during rush hour). Don’t be too conspicuous. Think twice about leaving mobile phones in bags or coats when checking them at museums, theatres, airports or train stations. Police! The police here generally look for any excuse to fine you, so photocopy your passport and visa. Make sure that you always carry a few photocopies; if the police stop you (they check Russians all the time too) then show them the photocopy rather than the original. What to do if you are robbed Call your bank to cancel your cards (if stolen) then call your embassy who can help you if your passport has been stolen - see moscow. inyourpocket.com for embassy addresses. If you need to claim insurance for a stolen phone etc you will need to get a spravka from a police station explaining that you have been robbed (ukraly). More safety... Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent or have dark skin exercise caution, particularly at night. Moscow Tourist Helpline (English) (+7) 800 220 00 02.

Climate Moscow
Moscow is usually baking in August and many locals head away to their country homes to escape the heat of the city, so make sure you stay hydrated and give yourself some time under the shade of a tree in the park. September is usually a lovely warm and sunny month and often ends in an Indian summer. Don’t forget your sunglasses!

Post
Only believe half the stories you hear about Russia’s post system. Mail may get detoured, but usually not lost. If you need to get something in or out of the country in a hurry, consider a courier service. A letter to Europe or Australia takes around three weeks. In addition to these offices below, you can also buy stamps from any post office in Moscow and drop them into any dark blue post box around the city.

Non-official taxis. ‘Taxi’ is a term to be used loosely in Russia. Although there are many ‘official’ taxis, most Muscovites still prefer to hail down ordinary cars. To foreigners, travelling in an unmarked car may seem unsafe, and it is certainly advisable to take caution, as there have been stories of passengers being attacked. If you still want to try your luck there is a certain protocol to follow. Stand by a main road and stick out your arm - not your thumb. Girls have more luck stopping cars, but it’s advisable for a male companion to jump from the shadows and hop in too. Always agree to a price in advance (‘Skolko?’); within the centre 200-300Rbl is normal. If the driver refuses, slam the door in an angry manner and sometimes they change their mind. Then hop in and enjoy the Lada experience. Try to avoid using very large denominations and asking for change. Also take note that such ‘taxi’ services are illegal in Moscow - but that means the driver is breaking the law, not you.

Toilets
If the portable lavatory doesn’t thrill you, try McDonald’s or random hotels and cafes uttering the words ‘Gdye tualyet?’ (‘Where is the toilet?).

Central Telegraph Office C-2, Ul. Tverskaya 7, MTverskaya. Despite the name, does all postal related chores including sending parcels, faxes, and email.QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com

or or

= ladies = gentlemen
August - September 2012

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GettinG around
Paveletsky Station D-4 M Paveletskaya, paveleckiy. Rizhsky Station MRizhskaya, rijskiy.railclient.ru. You’ll
slavskiy.railclient.ru. To the Golden Ring and beyond - all the way to Vladivostok. railclient.ru. This station sends trains to Domodedovo Airport via the Aeroexpress train.

Yaroslavsky Station D-1 M Komsomolskaya, yaro-

come here if you are heading to Riga or elsewhere in Latvia.

Public Transport
Buses, Trolleybuses and Trams - The bus, trolleybus

Buying Train Tickets
For the full blooded Russian experience, line up to buy a train ticket at one of the kassi (Ticket offices) at any train station. If you don‘t speak Russian, it is a good idea to find out the number of the train you want to catch as in each station there is only information about their own trains. This is where the Russian Railways website www.rzd.ru can come in handy. If you can read Russian or get a friend to help, you can view timetables, buy tickets online and then just print them out at the ticket machines in the station. Their English version doesn’t allow purchases yet. It is also possible to reserve and buy tickets from the ticket machines in the train stations using your bank card. Other options are to buy through a ticket or travel agency in Moscow. Remember that if you are buying a ticket for anything other than a local train you will need to show your passport details, so that they can be printed on the ticket.

and tram network functions under the same ticketing system. Buy tickets from the small kiosks near to bus stations for 25Rbl a single ticket. Buying your ticket onboard costs you 28Rbl.

Moscow Metro - Moscow’s metro is fast and efficient

and the second busiest in the world after the Tokyo metro. Cost per ride is 28Rbl (it is usually wise to buy a few trips in one go). Operating hours are from 05:30/06:00 until 01:00. To enter, swipe the metro card then go through the barriers (the barriers will hit you if you don’t swipe the card first!). Plan your trip in advance on www.metroway.ru (interactive) or www.mosmetro.ru.

Car Rental
For those who can’t be without a car, here are some people who‘ll give you one. Avis Russia Car Rental , tel. (+7) 495 988 62 16, www.avisrussia.ru. AVIS has offices in Sheremetyevo and Domodedovo airports, as well as at Leningradsky Railways station and on 4-y Dobrininsky per. 8, office 122 (near metro station Oktyabrskaya).QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Hertz B-1, 1-ya Brestskaya ul., 34, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 08 89, www.hertz.ru. Has 10 other branches in Moscow including ones at Sheremyetevo, Vnukovo and Domodedovo airpor ts. Q Open 09:00 21:00.

Train Stations
All of Moscow’s train stations are located next to metro stations, usually on the Koltsevaya (Circle) Line. Railway information hotline, www.rzd.ru, (+7) 800 775 00 00. (Russian only) Belorussky Station, B-1 MBelorusskaya, www.belorusskiy.railclient.ru. Trains go from here to Berlin, Warsaw, Minsk, Vilnius and Kaliningrad. Kazansky Station D-1 MKomsomolskaya, kazanskiy. railclient.ru. Gateway to the East, trains run to Kazan, Tashkent, Samara, Ulan-Ude and beyond. Kievsky Station MKievskaya, kievskiy.railclient.ru. As well as to Kiev, trains leave to Odessa, Budapest, Bucharest and Kishenev. Kursky Station D/E-2 MKurskaya, kursky-vokzal.ru Local trains depart from the right hand side of the station (first floor). Leningradsky Station D-1 MKomsomolskaya, leningradskiy.railclient.ru Hub for trains going north to Helsinki, Tallinn and St. Petersburg.

Taxis
Taxis to the city centre and airports depend on the taxi driver (his/her mood) and the time of day rather than where the station is. Short trips around the city cost around 300 - 500Rbl. Taxi Shanson tel. (+7) 495 925 75 13, www.tshanson.ru. Taxity tel. (+7) 495 988 19 88, www.taxity.ru. TK 956 tel. (+7) 495 956 89 56. www.taxi956.ru number of your carriage (vagon)

departure time - don’t be late, they won’t wait! departure date number of the train seat or bed number (myesta) your passport number – check when you buy the ticket that the seller copied it correctly Note all times are always Moscow time - even when you’re in a different time zone.

that’s you!

arrival time

Moscow In Your Pocket

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10

LanGuaGe
Useful Phrases
Basic phrases No/Yes Net/da Hello Zdrastvuite Goodbye Dasvidaniya Thank you Spasibo Sorry/excuse me Izvinite Please Pazhalusta I don't understand Ya ne panimayu I don't speak Ya ne gavaryu Russian pa-russky Do you speak Vy gavaritye paEnglish? anglisky? Help! Pomogitye! Go away! Ostavte menya! I need some help Mne nuzhna pomoshch I don't want Ya ne khachu May I? Mozhno? Do you have...? U vas est…? I don't know Ya ne znayu How much is it? Skolko stoit? It's expensive! Eta dorogo! More/less Yesho/menshe Large/small Bolshoy/malenky Нет/Да Здравствуйте До свидания Спасибо Извините Пожалуйста Я не понимаю Я не говорю порусски Вы говорите поанглийски? Помогите! Оставьте меня! Мне нужна помошь Я не хочу Можно? У вас есть...? Я не знаю Сколько стоит? Это дорого! Еще/меньше Большой/ маленкий Good/bad Khorosho/plokho Хорошо/плохо It hurts! Bolno! Больно! Today Sevodnya Сегодня Tomorrow Zaftra Завтра Toilets Tualet Туалет Stop here please Ostanavite Остановите, pazhalusta пожалуйста How do you say Kak skazat eto Как сказать это that in Russian? pa-russky? по-русски? No problem Bez problem Без проблем Of course Koneshno Конечно

the Patriotic War 1812
Napoleon’s ultimately disastrous invasion of the Russian Empire in 1812 is one of the most famous military campaigns in modern history. On 24 June 1812, Napoleon and his Grand Armee crossed the river Neiman in Western Russia and began marching towards Moscow with some 690,000 men. By the time the Armee had retreated from Russia less than six months later only tens of thousands of soldiers remained. Three quarters of Moscow lay in smoldering ruins and hundreds of thousands of Russians had been killed, but Napoleon and his great Empire had been forced to retreat. It was a defeat that ultimately proved that Europe’s previously undefeated ‘military genius’ could indeed be crushed, albeit at a huge cost. By Louise Whitworth

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The Invasion
By 1812 most of mainland Europe was under the control of Napoleon and his French Empire, who had swept across Europe with the help of a vast army and outstanding military strategies. Next on the French Emperor’s list was its fragile ally Russia, which was doing little to honour the flimsy peace agreements that Napoleon had imposed on it. Bent on teaching the Russians a lesson, Napoleon mustered the full strength of his pan-European Grand Armee, the largest that had ever been seen in Europe since Roman times, and began marching towards the Russian Empire. Although estimates vary, the Russian military was by all accounts vastly inferior in size to that of Napoleon’s invading army. For Napoleon the Russian invasion resembled an easy victory and he anticipated that Russia would capitulate within a matter of weeks. What Napoleon hadn’t expected was the resolve of Tsar Alexander I to fight to the last and the willingness of the Russian people to defend the nation at all costs. Napoleon’s invasion was to be fought along three fronts aimed at “Russia’s feet” (Kiev), the “Russian heart” (Moscow) and “Russia’s head” (the capital St. Petersburg). As the Grand Armee marched determinedly across Western Russia - crushing the Russians in a terrible siege at Smolensk in the process - the Russian generals quickly recognised that further battles against Napoleon’s vast war machine would decimate the Russian army. Straight confrontation appeared an equally unwise strategy so the Russians began to retreat across the country, fighting few major battles and relying on Cossack raids of French positions to damage French morale and destroy their supplies. The Russian retreat turned out to be a surprisingly excellent tactic, stretching Napoleon’s supply lines further and further and forcing his men over rough terrain. As they withdrew, the Russians also destroyed crops and other food stores in what is now known as a ‘scorched earth’ strategy, thus denying the French army and its vast cavalry essential supplies. As Napoleon had planned for a swift victory, the further the Russians retreated the more he became entrenched in a long war that he had not logistically prepared for. Persistent hunger and desertion and growing distances from essential supply lines meant that by September Napoleon’s army would be halved by the conditions alone.

Pocket dictionary: Babye leto
In Russian, this word is translated as Indian Summer, although its literal translation is ‘women’s summer’. The origin of the word is connected to peasant traditions of the end of the harvest when women turned their attention to their house. They began preparing enough flax for their winter’s creativity. Other interpretations of this phrase refer to the ability of women to warm up men when all else is lost. A similar expression is babyi dni, ‘women’s days’ which refers to an old superstition where women had the power to bring seasons back and influence the weather. Those were the days!

St. Petersburg is saved
By July, fears were spreading in St. Petersburg that an invasion of the city was imminent and the state’s most valuable treasures from the Hermitage and the Alexander Nevsky Lavra were transported east to Kazan for safe keeping, soon to be followed by the royal family. Tsar Alexander I felt that strong action was needed to restore his men’s resolve and appointed veteran military leader and celebrated commander Mikhail Kutuzov to lead all the ground and naval forces based in St. Petersburg. As the excitement and anticipation of imminent battle in St. Petersburg grew, Kutuzov’s troops swelled with thousands of new recruits and the coffers filled with donations from anxious citizens. The Russian army won its first victory of the campaign at the battle of Potolsk against the north-bound flank of Napoleon’s army, who were travelling through modern day Belarus on their way to St. Petersburg. Forced by the defeat in Potolsk to reconsider plans to take the capital St. Petersburg, Napoleon instead focused his energies on capturing Moscow. Napoleon believed that if the French could occupy the ancient seat of the Tsars, Russia would be forced to surrender. Meanwhile in St. Petersburg Tsar Alexander I was studying closely the Russian retreat tactics. It seemed clear that the leader of the Russian army, Field Marshall Barclay de Tolly, would continue the retreat all the way to Moscow and that the city would then be taken by Napoleon. The Tsar believed that a battle would eventually have to be fought and so he promoted Kutuzov to lead the army into battle. Kutuzov, like Barclay de Tolly, knew that the Russian army was far outnumbered by the French. However, he also knew that politically it would be impossible for the retreat to continue the Russian people expected a battle and the Tsar demanded a stand. Sooner rather than later, the two armies had to meet.

Language schools
per. 3 bldg.1, entr. 6, office 181, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 254 49 91, w w w.lidenz.ru. Liden & Denz Language Centre Moscow is thankfully located in the centre, not far from Belorusskaya metro. In terms of facilities and ethos, this is a modern language school with up-to-date classrooms, and all the accoutrements that can assist students. DVD gear is in all classrooms and there’s also wireless and flat screen internet workstations. Students can study in groups, of which the minimum length is one week with a maximum of ten students or learners in one class. Groups have the advantage of great social activities outside of lesson, although individual classes are also available. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Liden and Denz Language Centre В-1, Gruzinsky

Alphabet

Ruslingua Language Center C-4, 1-y Spasonalivkovsky per. 3/5, office 403 (4th floor), MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 748 31 85, www.ruslingua.com. This excellent language school has individual and group courses for expats, visitors and revision courses for university students and can organise home stays. There’s a specially dedicated conversation class and they also offer trips with a teacher to the local market to practice your language in real life situations. They also offer a special one day course on how to talk to taxi drivers and chauffeurs which is especially useful if you will be being driven around a lot in Moscow. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. moscow.inyourpocket.com

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12

the Patriotic War 1812
The Battle of Borodino
By September Napoleon’s troops were within days of Moscow. Field Marshall Kutuzov had mustered as much fire power as he could and was preparing to face Napoleon’s men in battle. On the dawn of 07 September in the fields of Borodino - a quiet cluster of small villages and farms 200kms from Moscow - 250,000 men went to war in what would be the largest and bloodiest single day of battle in all the Napoleonic Wars, and indeed one of the most harrowing battles in human history.

the Patriotic War 1812

13

The Fire of Moscow
Having won the Battle of Borodino, Napoleon entered Moscow on 14 September expecting a prompt surrender by Tsar Alexander I. Anticipating that members of the Russian command would meet him and hand over a truce and the keys to the city, Napoleon set up camp and waited on the hills of Poklonnaya Gora (where the Borodino panorama museum and Victory Park is now located). No one came. Reports soon arrived from Napoleon’s aides that the city was deserted and that no officials could be found. More than two thirds of the population had fled Moscow, burning or robbing food stores on their way out. Furthermore numerous criminal gangs had been released from local prisons to terrorise the incoming troops. Of the remaining population, most were foreign merchants, French expats, servants, and others who were unable or unwilling to leave. Disappointed to find that the Russians would not surrender and with morale and provisions running at an all time low, the Grand Armee began widespread looting of the city in search of provisions and valuables to take away with them. Before leaving Moscow and ordering the evacuation of its citizens, the Governor of Moscow Count Fyodor Rostopchin had made arrangements that if the French army entered Moscow fires would be started in various districts to destroy any remaining resources and force the French back out. Small blazes were already spotted during the first day of French occupation, but were largely blamed on careless French troops.

Of more than 250,000 men on the field that day, between 70,000 and 100,000 were killed. From the crack of dawn the fields were filled with cannon smoke, the deafening noise of thousands of muskets and the thunder of horse hooves. Cavalry regiments charged across the low hills and men armed with bayonets surged forward to meet their enemy. As one observer noted, “to those present, even those who had been in battle before, it seemed as though all hell had been let loose.» During the chaos of the battle both Kutuzov and Napoleon were presented with opportunities to commit the last of their best men to the battle and force a victory, but both refused Napoleon believing he had all but won and Kutuzov fearing his weakened army would not be able to recover from yet more causalities. The various defensive positions of both armies changed hands numerous times and as the day drew on the field was covered in dead men and horses, sometimes lying two or three deep and in such a position that it actually made it difficult for the surviving men to advance. Scores more were wounded and what little area was not covered with the dead and bloody was scattered with the debris of the battle - helmets, lances, cannonballs, drums and flags. After seemingly endless hours of bitter carnage Napoleon took to the battlefield and Kutuzov was forced to retreat south with the remainder of the Russian army, leaving Napoleon free to take Moscow. Napoleon’s victory was a Pyrrhic one however, and Kutuzov is considered to have dealt Napoleon the decisive blow by retreating to replenish his troops and gather more supplies, which Napoleon would have little luck finding in Moscow. As Bonaparte wrote many years later during his exile, of the 50 battles of his life Borodino was where «the greatest valour was displayed and the least success gained.»

Retreat and Defeat
The French army began to file out of Moscow on 18 October in what was to be a thoroughly devastating journey back west from which it would never fully recover. During the gruelling return journey many of the remaining soldiers and some 200,000 horses died either from starvation, cold, injury or disease. With no horses left, the French had to abandon their wagons and canons, further weakening their fighting power. The replenished Russian army then set out on the war path and pushed Napoleon’s men to retreat along the same roads they had arrived, forcing them through the empty scorched earth left by the Russians during the summer months. War-weary, starved, disease-ridden and plagued by constant raids from Russian partisans and brigades of Cossacks, tens of thousands of Napoleon’s soldiers began to desert. With few able fighting men left and mass misery in French ranks, it was easy for the Russians to inflict further battle defeats on the Grand Armee. In early November Napoleon abandoned his troops and fled to Paris to pick up the pieces, leaving Joachim Murat as Grand Marshall. Murat, facing his own troubles at home, soon deserted. Napoleon’s stepson was then put in charge of guiding the army back to safety in the west. By the time they finally made it out of Russian territory and arrived in Poland in December 1812 there were little more than 100,000 starved and frost-bitten men left, from an army that had left just a few months earlier with seven times that number.

Moscow after 1812

Monuments to 1812
There are numerous monuments to the Russian victory over Napoleon in 1812 scattered across the city including; a triumphal arch, the Borodino panorama museum (where you can see a huge panoramic painting of the battlefield) and of course the beautiful Cathedral of Christ the Saviour which you can see on our cover. For more information on Napoleonic sightseeing in Moscow turn to page 47.

On 15 September Napoleon arrived at the Kremlin and the very same day massive fires began in the Kitay Gorod area just to its east. Fanned by high winds and wooden housing, the inferno soon threatened the Kremlin itself and more fires were being spotted in other parts of the city. Moscow was soon ablaze in a terrifying firestorm. With fire raging across the city, on 16 September Napoleon was forced to leave the Kremlin for the safety of the Petrovsky Palace, an imperial residence on the road to St. Petersburg, while his troops gave up the fight against the fire and instead took to pillaging whatever treasures remained. By 18 September the fire had finally been brought under control and Napoleon returned to the Kremlin at the centre of a city of ashes - still awaiting the Tsar’s final surrender. Yet the Tsar was refusing to give up, while Kutuzov was based south of the city, out of reach of the French and busy mustering new troops and bolstering his army. To make matters worse, the great fire had destroyed yet more of the French army’s rapidly dwindling supplies, and Napoleon’s men were now beginning to starve to death. Finally after occupying Moscow for just five weeks the situation reached critical levels and Napoleon was left with no choice but to begin a long retreat west.

With much of Moscow in ruins following the great fire, the Russians were given the unique opportunity to completely replan the city from scratch, providing local architects with a wealth of opportunities. However, state funds and resources were still low following the war effort and the real reconstruction of the city didn’t begin in earnest until 1817. Moscow’s fashionable new look was defined by neo-classical buildings, which were ordered to be painted in muted pastel shades and adorned with classical facades. Grand projects such as the rebuilding of the Bolshoi theatre and Moscow University were undertaken first, as was the restoration work inside the Kremlin and the creation of the Garden Ring road (which was later completely reconstructed by Stalin). As there was still a lack of masonry, numerous wooden buildings were also built by well-off merchants keen to start afresh, and were given a neo-classical look with carved wooden facades. A few of these buildings can still be admired in the area around Bolshaya Ordnyka ulitsa. And of course great emphasis was paid on constructing buildings and monuments that would testify to Russia’s great victory over Napoleon. The cultural legacy of the war resounded across Russia for decades in music and words. Lermontov was the first literary giant to recreate scenes from the battle in his poem Borodino, which he published in 1837 in honour of the 25th anniversary of the battle. In 1865 Tolstoy’s epic masterpiece War and Peace was published with extensive philosophising on the nature of warfare and was later made into films by various Russian and foreign directors. The war has also been immortalised by Russia’s most famous composers - in 1880 Tchaikovsky penned his iconic 1812 overture and in 1941 Prokofiev wrote the opera War and Peace, based on Tolstoy’s novel.

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14

culture & events
While St. Petersburg may claim to be the capital of Russian culture, Moscow can arguably be considered as its birthplace. Tchaikovsky, Tolstoy, Stanislavsky, Chekhov, Bulgakov and co. -they all took their inspiration from this magical and majestic place. Live music from local and international per formers is another big part of the cultural landscape of the city and on a lighter note, contemporary Moscow also sees the running of high heeled road races, honey festivals and air-guitar competitions and other curious events.

Culture & events
10.08 Friday

15

August events
05.08 Sunday
C-1, SK Olimpiysky (Zal Sever) Olimpiysky pr.16, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 812 258 00 00, www.chakakhan. com. Sometimes referred to as the ‘Queen of Funk’, good old Chaka and her incredible hair is back for a greatest hits tour. Best known for her early 1980s girl power disco hits such as I’m Every Woman and Ain’t Nobody Chaka has also guested on songs by many modern era fans of her work such as Beverly Knight and Mary J Blige and recently recorded a new song dedicated to Floridian teenager Trayvon Martin. Q Tickets 1,500 - 10,000Rbl.

21:00 Vasya Oblomov

Russian National Show
Through 15.09 Saturday

20:00 Chaka Khan

Concert Halls
(IHMC), Theatre Hall (IHMT), Svetlanov Hall (IHMS) D/E-4, Kosmodamianskaya Nab. 52, bldg. 8, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 730 10 11, www.mmdm.ru.

International House of Music - Chamber Hall

A-1, 16 Tons, ul. Presnensky val 6, bldg.1, MUlitsa 1905 Goda, tel. (+7) 499 253 15 50, www.16tons.ru. Finding his success through a viral video, Vasya Oblomov is perhaps the kind of character who you could expect to be a one-hit wonder. However his outspoken songs which speak of cops and bureaucrats, hospital queues and social network ‘friends’ have made him a bit of a hero amongst Russia’s youth and some consider him a kind of Russian Mike Skinner. Witty lyrics (in Russian only), stage presence and a talent for lo-fi rapping over catchy acoustic guitar riffs mean he is a local favourite. Q Tickets 800Rbl.

19:30 Russian National Dance Show Kostroma

Moscow Philharmonic Chamber Hall (PCH) B-1, Ul.
Tverskaya 29, bldg. 3, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru.

Moscow Philharmonic Grand Hall (PGH) B-2, Bolshaya Nikitskaya 13, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru. Moscow Philharmonic Small Hall (PSH) B-2, Bolshaya Nikitskaya 13, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru. Triumfalnaya Pl. 4/31, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 53 53, www.meloman.ru.

Concer t Hall of Cosmos Hotel, Pr. Mira 150, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 234 63 73, nationalrussianshow.ru. The show to see if you are looking for Russian folklore, traditional music, dancing, fabulous costumes and a big bite of history. Themed around Russia’s long and glorious history, the Kostroma troupe show off all the key events of the past millennium in lively song and dance. Starting in medieval Rus, charging on through the Tsars, then across the golden age of the 18th and 19th Century and onwards towards the communist revolution and the Soviet era - the whole of Russia’s history is enjoyably choreographed in a colourful extravaganza. More than 50 dancers wear over 300 costumes during the course of this exciting show filled with romance, comedy, high drama and stunning choreography and acrobatics. This show, as they say themselves, is much more than matrioshkas. Q Tickets 600 - 1,500Rbl.

Moscow Philharmonic Tchaikovsky Hall (PTH) B-1,

Circus in Gorky Park
School’s out for the summer and for all the kids - and for that matter the grown-ups who are still themselves a little bit of a child at heart - Gorky Park (metro Park Kultury) will be enjoying two weekends of street theatre and circus fun this August.

Theatres
Bolshoi Theatre (BT) C-2, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 250 73 17, www.bolshoi.ru.

07.08 Tuesday

MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 65 84, www.helikon.ru. Ryad 3, bldg. 2, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 694 08 68, www.novayaopera.ru.

Helikon Opera (HO) B-2, Ul. Novy Arbat 11, bldg. 2,

Kolobov Novaya Opera Theatre (KNOT) C-1, Karetny

tel. (+7) 495 624 40 46. Second stage: C-4, Ul. Bol. Ordynka 69, MDobryninskaya, www.maly.ru. Q Tickets 50 - 2,500Rbl. UK

Maly Theatre (MT) C-2, Teatralny pr. 1, MTeatralnaya,

C-1, SK Olimpiysky, Olimpiysky pr.16, MProspekt Mira, www.madonna.com. The material girl is back again in Russia as part of what promises to be her largest tour yet supporting her latest album MDNA. The dramatic and energetic show production is colossal in scale and is one of the most ambitious shows seen in a pop concert, and as many critics have already remarked it’s pretty deep and dark in parts too. With numerous dancers, acrobats and even a marching band sharing the stage with the Queen of Pop, the MDNA tour promises to be a huge colourful extravaganza worth the high ticket price. Q Tickets 3,000 - 10,000, VIP tickets 10,000 - 70,000.

20:00 Madonna

12.08 Sunday

Once in the park
For this special street theatre and circus festival Gorky Park will be turned into a topsy-turvy wonderland worthy of Carroll’s Alice herself with chairs in the trees, bikes on lampposts, cardboard houses, cars made from grass and colourful lanterns everywhere. Kids and grown-ups can get up to all kinds of fun hanging from chandeliers or having pillow fights and clowns, live statues, gymnasts and musicians will be there to guide everyone along the way. Top performers from across Russia will be taking part in the festival alongside numerous foreign artists and the headline event of the whole spectacle will be top theatrical performers Malabar from France who will be staging their show Les Aquareves.

Cinemas
35mm D-2, Ul. Pokrovka 47/24, MKrasniye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 780 9145, www.kino35mm.ru. Moscow’s premiere cinema for foreign language films, art house films and festivals. Q Tickets 250-450Rbl.

Stanislavsky Music Theatre (SMT) C-1, Ul. Bol.

Dmitrovka 17, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 28 35, www.stanislavskymusic.ru.

18.08 Saturday

Venues
Bolshoi Theatre Helikon Opera International House of Music Chamber Hall International House of Music Svetlanov Hall International House of Music Theatre Hall Kolobov Novaya Opera Maly Theatre Moscow Philarmonic Chamber Hall Moscow Philharmonic Grand Hall Moscow Philharmonic Small Hall Moscow Philharmonic Tchaikovsky Hall Stanislavsky Music Theatre BT HO IHMC IHMS IHMT KNOT MT PCH PGH PSH PTH SMT

Bright People

A creative carnival atmosphere will be created in the park at this special festival combining 3-D art, circus wizzadry, acrobatics, street theatre, music and more. A total of 500 different artists will be performing all kind of wonderful acts across the park including acrobats, actors, dancers, live statues, street theatre enthusiasts and musicians from as far afield as Argentina and Australia. There will of course also be craft workshops where you can put your idle hands to good use and different stalls, classes and installations courtesy of local design institutes such as Winzavod, Flacon and the British School of Design, the hands-on Experimentarium museum and the quirky nation of Cardboardia who aim to build a new cardboard colony in the park.

5 Zvezd na Novokuznetskoy D-3, Bol. Ovchinnikovsky per. 16, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 510 28 88, www.5zvezd.ru. Popular cinema showing a wide range of Hollywood blockbusters more often than not in their original language, although make sure you ask about subtitles before you buy your tickets as some films are dubbed. Also at ul. Bakhrushina 25, metro Paveletskaya. Q Tickets 120-350Rbl. Dome Cinema C-1, Renaissance Hotel, Olympisky
pr. 18/1, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 931 98 73, www.domecinema.ru. Screening films in English without dubbing them into Russian is wonderful and the theatre itself is rarely crowded and really comfortable. They tend towards the latest Hollywood films, with a few off-beat indie films too.

Pioner Kutuzovsky pr. 21, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 499 240 52 40, www.pioner-cinema.ru. A fashionably restored 1950s cinema showing new foreign and Russian films in original language with Russian subtitles. Also frequently hosts film festivals and retrospectives. August - September 2012

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culture & events
Concerts
Aug 11 26 30 Sept 08, 09, 13, 16, 17, 20, 23 11 14, 15 17 18, 19 18 19 20 20 21 21 25 26 26 29 29 29 30 Time 19:00 19:00 19:00 Time 19:00 Event Peter Laul, piano and Ilya Gringoltz, violin The Welsh Association Male Voice Choir (Wales) Trio Con cordes Event The Russian National Orchestra Brass Band of the German Armed Forces Clan di Adriano Celentano Concha Buika (vocal), flamenco A. Rybnikov: Hallelujah Kova (premiere) Roman Perucki, organ Moscow Symphony Orchestra: Bach-Vivaldi Maxim Piganov`s trombone - show The Golden Hits of the `50s - Vivaldi Orchestra and Off-Beat band Demis Russos Cechomor group (Czech Republic) Dmitry Hvorostovsky, baritone Moscow Symphony Orchestra Russian: Strauss-gala Solo Tango Orquesta In The Organ Kingdom. Organ music of Germany Vladimir Bajkov and Bolshoi Theatre Sextet Jane Monheit and Igor Butman Ensemble Russia, directed by L. Zykina Venue IHMC IHMC IHMC Venue PTH

Culture & events
21.08 Tuesday

17

20:30 Korn

September events
01.09 Saturday

Battle of Borodino
02.09 Sunday
Borodino, Moscow region, 1812-2012.org. Every year hundreds of historical reenactment fans gather on the fields of Borodino to the west of Moscow to recreate one of the most epic battles in modern history. As 2012 marks the 200th anniversary of the battle of Borodino, this year’s reenactment will be an especially spectacular affair with hundreds of military enthusiasts from France also taking part alongside their Russian counterparts. During the reenactment (which will officially start at 15:00), the troops of both armies come out in full military regalia, horses charge across the landscape and muskets and canons are fired to give as realistic (and safe) an impression of the chaos of the day as possible. You can also expect to find many history fanatics in the audience dressed as Napoleon or as soldiers or in the case of the women dolled up in spectacular period dresses and hats, whilst other non-military figures such as squires and doctors also make an appearance on the field. Q GETTING THERE: Local trains (no toilets) to Borodino leave from Belorussky railways station and take just under three hours. From the Borodino station it is a short bus ride to the battlefield or a 40minute - 1hour walk through the surrounding fields. Alternatively you can take a train to Mozhaisk and catch one of the buses headed to the battlefield which will be shuttling people from outside the train station.

Stadium-live, Leningradsky pr.80, bldg.17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.stadium-live.ru. Pioneering nu-metal band, famous for bringing (for better or for worse) guttural screaming and painfully roaring guitars into the headbanging scene in the 1990s. Korn still have the power to shock and delight their hard-rocking fans, despite being little seen of late in the charts, and are regular visitors to the Russian capital. Q Tickets 1,890Rbl. VIP 12,000 - 15,000Rbl.

Moscow City Day
September 04 is regarded to be Moscow’s official birthday and this year the city turns 865 years old. City day is usually marked by a giant street party on the first Saturday of the month (this year September 01) which takes over most of the area around Teatralnaya square, Red square and the lower end of Tverskaya ulitsa. There will be stages set up in squares gardens and parks across the city including Gorky Park, Kolomenskoye, Park Pobedy, Sokolniki and Tsaritsyno where concerts and other special shows will be staged. Photography exhibitions, children’s theatre, music, dancing and street performances can also be found in the green spaces along the boulevard ring, especially around Pushkinskaya square and the Chistye Prudy ponds.

Military Reenactment - The Battle of Borodino

19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 13:00 19:00 19:00 19:00

IHMS IHMT IHMS IHMT IHMS IHMS IHMT IHMS IHMS IHMT IHMS IHMS IHMT IHMS IHMC IHMS IHMC

25.08 Saturday

Gorky Park, MPark Kultury, prazdnik.eda.ru. Run by one of the country’s most popular food magazines, the Afisha Eda festival is a foodie heaven. Row upon row of stalls will be filling one half of Gorky Park for a day with the heavenly smells of sizzling meats, artisan pizzas, homemade falafel, curry, couscous and much, much more. Last year’s hog roast was particularly mouth-watering. The only downside of putting this much tasty food in front of thousands of hungry eaters is that the queues can be phenomenal and you may find yourself leaving having eaten much less than intended. There will also be cookery masterclasses and the chance to buy exotic ingredients and exclusive cooking utensils. Q Tickets 600Rbl.

12:00 - 22:00 Afish Eda food festival

01.09 Saturday - 08.09 Saturday

Spasskaya Tower - International Military Music Festival

11.08 Saturday

Tiesto
24.08 Friday

20:00 Ministry

Arena Moscow, Leningradksy pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 612 79 00, www.arenagroup.ru. Yet another long forgotten heavy metal band which has resurfaced for a reunion tour. Ministry are fine purveyors of the ultra loud and super grinding guitar genre often referred to as ‘industrial metal’ and with songs like Jesus Built My Hot Rod they appeal to the leather jacketed, head-banging biker parade who no doubt would never dare to say that it is all just of load a noise. Q Tickets 2,000 - 13,000Rbl.

22:00 Tiesto

C-2, Red Square, MPloshchad Revolutsii, tel. (+7) 495 726 61 50, kremlin-military-tattoo.ru. The Moscow Military Tattoo is one of the biggest displays of military musical groups in the world. With the Kremlin and St. Basil’s Cathedral as its backdrop, the Spasskaya Tower festival features more than 1,000 musicians and soldiers from numerous different countries including China, France, Germany, the UK, Italy, Kazakhstan, Poland and Singapore as well as Russia. The tattoo is not only about horns, drums and goose-stepping; 3-D laser and video effects, light shows, pyrotechnic and tons of fireworks add even more pomp and purpose to the stirring military display. Q Tickets 500 - 2,700Rbl.

Stadium-Live, Leningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17 MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 644 22 22, www.stadium-live.ru Tiesto is the Netherlands’ number one DJ and has been frequently named the best trance DJ in the world - he is so popular that he was even asked to perform at the opening ceremony of the Athens Olympics in 2004. The numbers of tickets sold for his performances only go to prove that he is the king of the decks - ever heard of any other DJ selling out 30,000 seater stadiums?! As part of the celebration of the 17th birthday of Russian dan ce music promoters Radio Record, Tiesto will be joined at this special party by popular DJs Matisse and Sadko, Swanky Tunes and others. QTickets 1,100 3,900Rbl.

Through 02.09 Sunday

Summer Times Open Cinema

Strelka Institute, Bersenevskaya nab. 14, bldg. 5a, MKropotkinskaya, www.coolconnections.ru. The Strelka Design Institute’s open courtyard in the Red October Factory and the independent cinema 35mm are again bringing a summer season of foreign films to Moscow. As usual there will be a focus on short films, with this year’s selections coming from Spain, Britain, France and Scandinavia as well as a host of new indie films. Choice feature-length English language films on the bill include Whit Stillman’s Damsels in Distress, Irish thriller Dollhouse, Michelle Williams’ latest film T ake this Waltz and Anna Paquin and Matt Damon in the psychological drama Margaret.

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culture & events
Ballet and Dance
Sept 10, 11 15, 16, 18, 19 21 - 23 25 27 - 30 29 Time 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 Event Venue National Academic Dance PTH Ensemble the Zhok Don Quixote (New Stage) BT Jewels (Main Stage) REMIX Ballet La Sylphide Swan Lake BT IHMT BT SMT

Culture & events
16.09 Sunday

19

Run Moscow 2012

Summer at Strelka
Through 28.09 Friday
C-3, Strelka Institute for Media, Architecture and Design, Bersenevskaya nab. 14, bldg.5a, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 771 74 37, strelkainstitute. com. Throughout the summer Moscow’s leading design institute Strelka will be running a summer programme of top open-air concerts, cinema and theatre performances, flea markets, farmer’s markets and more. As an educational institute Strelka will also be running a series of free lectures and workshops by international designers and idea-creators from across the world. Keep an eye on their website for the latest announcements and timetables.

28.09 Friday

08.09 Saturday - 23.09 Sunday

B-1, Moscow Philharmonic Tchaikovsky Hall, Triumfalnaya pl. 4/31, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 53 53, www.rno.ru. Founded in 1990, the Russian National Orchestra has quickly grown to become one of the hardest working and respected touring orchestras in the world. Usually they are on the road playing in various international festivals but every year they come back to Moscow to take part in their own festival. Now in its fourth year the RNO Grand Festival covers everything from chamber music and ballet to opera, grand symphonic pieces and even jazz. Q Tickets TBA.

Grand Festival of the Russian National Orchestra

Location will be announced in the week prior to the run, www.runmoscow.com. Sponsored by Nike, the Run Moscow event is a fun and energising day out for all running fans, whether you’re an occasional jogger or a dedicated fitness fan. You can register for the race online and at Moscow’s Nike stores in the month prior to the race, while if you arrive early enough (and provided there’s still space) it is also possible to register on the day. In 2011 thousands of runners did 5km and 10km runs around Moscow’s Olympic stadium while in previous years the event has also take place at Red Square. It is all extremely professionally organised with cloakrooms and changing areas as well as electronic timers on your number badges. Other bonuses include getting a free Run Moscow t-shirt and, if you have still got enough energy left, a free post-run concert by a well-known international act (in previous years the Klaxons and Sophie Ellis Bextor played in the evening). Now you know all that it’s time to follow the Run Moscow slogan; ‘less talking, more running’.

21.09 Friday

20:00 Crystal Castles

18.09 Tuesday

14.09 Friday

Stadium-live, Leningradsky pr.80, bldg.17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.stadium-live.ru. Led by the fabulous and charismatic gay icons Jake Shears and Ana Matronic, the Scissor Sisters are a delightfully sparkly poptastic band whose music combines glam-rock, nu-disco, electronica and good old-fashioned pop. Brash, catchy and made for dancing the band has continued to produce hit after hit during their 10 year career including Filthy/ Gorgeous, Take Your Mama Out, Laura and of course I Don’t Feel Like Dancin’ and their concerts are famously colourful and energetic affairs. This gig is part of a world tour promoting their four th album Magic Hour which was released this May. Q Tickets 2,390Rbl. VIP 12,000 - 20,000Rbl.

20:30 Scissor Sisters

C-1, SK Olimpiysky, Olimpiysky pr.16, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 773 79 30, www.placeboworld. co.uk. Post-punkers Placebo are often described as a kind of glam version of Nirvana and are well known for their lead singer Brain Molko’s wailing and nasal vocal style and androgynous look. Singing as they do, mostly about drug abuse, depression and failed relationships they have quite an emo following, although their newer songs are noticeably more positive and have garnered them a wider appeal. Q Tickets 1,500 - 4,000Rbl.

19:00 Placebo

A-1, Milk Club, ul. Sergeya Makeeva 9, MUlitsa 1905 Goda, tel. (+7) 495 726 09 98, www.crystalcastles. com. This Toronto based dance act mix the popular synthloaded electronic style with live drum beats, the sound effects from someone’s game boy and an all-out punk attitude. Crystal Castle’s fierce live performances are the stuff of legend and usually see the band’s fabulously punk and infinitely wild-at-heart lead sin ger Alice Glass launching herself into the crowd, th en clamb ering back on sta ge to h owl another track into the mic b efore demolishin g th e drum kit and strolling off into the night. Q Tickets 1,800 - 2,200Rbl.

Stadium-live, Leningradsky pr.80, bldg.17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.stadium-live.ru. A selfproclaimed pop band, these youngsters came out around the same time as those other youthful cheeky boys the Arctic Monkeys and had an equal number of catchy happy-go-lucky hits. Their debut album was a storm, but their follow up received mixed reviews. However, despite their band member changes, various bust-ups and a delayed third album release, the shaggy haired boys from Brighton remain real charmers. Q Tickets 1,490 - 10,000Rbl.

20:30 The Kooks

30.09 Sunday

19:00 Il Divo

Crocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.ildivo.com. Pop-opera collective Il Divo are the brainchild of pop music mogul and X-Factor judge Simon Cowell. The quartet are an international roster of French, Spanish, American and Swiss nationalities united by their boyish good looks, slick suits and dazzling smiles. Essentially they are bit like the Three Tenors, minus the superstar fame and outstanding legacy in the classical world, but with added good looks and glitzy showbiz dazzle. Q Tickets 3,000 - 6,500Rbl.

22.09 Saturday

20:30 Kasabian

21.09 Friday

14.09 Friday - 16.09 Sunday

Festival of German Culture

B-4, Gorky Park, MPark Kultury, www.germanyinrussia.ru. This event promises to be one of the highlights of the German-Russian friendship year. For three days Gorky Park will be taking on a new look inspired by modern Germany and in particular German street culture. Famous street artists will be leaving their mark on the park, while there will be concerts by famous modern German stars throughout the weekend. To give the whole event a particularly Teutonic feel special new kiosks will be installed selling traditional German snacks such as pretzels, gingerbread cookies and, of course, sausages.

Crocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.lennykravitz.com. The four time Grammy award winner arrives in Russia as part of continued promotion of his 2011 album Black and White America. In a musical career spanning over 20 years, Kravitz has transcended genre, style and race and has sold 40 million albums worldwide. Never one to sit still, besides writing and performing the 16 tracks on the new album, he had a part in the Oscar nominated movie Precious as well as the blockbuster film Th e Hun ger Games based on Suzanne Collins’ hit novel. Q Tickets 3,000 - 15,000Rbl.

19:00 Lenny Kravitz

Stadium-live, Leningradsky pr.80, bldg.17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.kasabian.co.uk. Currently touring to promote their fourth album Velociraptor! the British ‘lad rock’ band return to Moscow against for the second time this year. The band have been dogged their whole career by comparisons with Britpop super group Oasis, and in many ways the comparisons are not entirely unfair. They do produce those anthem-style guitar-led songs that glorify the lad culture of footy, cigarettes and booze. In recent years they’ve also been dabbling in psychedelic sounds a la Primal Scream, but essentially their swaggering Britpop formula remains the same. Q Tickets 3,100 - 15,000Rbl.

Opera and Operetta
Sept 06 - 09 06, 08, 10 28 - 30 12, 13 15, 16, 18, 19, 20 20 22, 23 22 25 27 28 28, 30 29, 30 29 Time 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 15:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 Event Das Liebesverbot Don Giovanni (Main Stage) Back in the USSR (premiere) Franziskus (New Stage) The Enchantress (Main Stage) Prince Igor La Boheme (New Stage) Lohengrin Rigoletto L`Elisir d`amore Eugene Onegin Pelleas er Melisande La Cenerentola Donizetti: National Philharmonic of Russia, Sveshnikov State Academic Russian Choir Venue HO BT HO BT BT KNOT BT KNOT KNOT KNOT KNOT SMT KNOT TCH

Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

moscow.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2012

20

culture & events
Russian Theatre Exhibitions
From Rembrandt and Picasso all the way through to Andy Warhol and David Lynch, the latest and the greatest in the world of art can be found in the Russian capital

Culture & events
Through 25.08 Saturday

21

Russians and Germans. 1000 years of history and culture

Through 02.09 Sunday

100 Years of the Pushkin Museum

The Russian theatrical tradition is one of the strongest and most thriving in the world. For Russians the stars of the stage are often much more famous than their counterparts playing on the silver screen and the old adage about leaving a Russian theatre in tears after a powerful performance is certainly not a myth for many. In terms of dramatic theatre Moscow can be considered to be the capital, it has many of the country’s strongest ensembles and highly respected theatres. The granddaddy of the Moscow Theatre world is the Maly (small) Theatre, whose main premises is on Teatralnaya ploschad adjacent to the famous Bolshoi (big) Theatre. The history of the theatre dates all the way back to 1756 when the company was founded during Catherine the Great’s reign. During the 19th Century the theatre became a favourite with some of the country’s most noted playwrights, in particular Ostrovsky who premiered 40 of his 52 plays here leading the theatre to be nicknamed ‘the house of Ostrovsky’. If you are looking to enjoy classical Russian theatre from the likes of Chekhov, Pushkin, Ostrovsky and Gogol the Maly is probably one of the best choices. The fact that there is a slavish attention to tradition and classical production means that (with a little prior knowledge of the general plot) intermediate students of Russian as well as more fluent non-natives can follow the action quite well without the help of subtitles. The new theatre season at Maly Theatre’s two stages opens on October 09 and upcoming classical highlights of the next season include a new production of Pushkin’s Queen of Spades, Ostrovsky’s Poverty is no crime, Gorky’s Children of the sun and works by Chekhov including Three Sisters and The Seagull.

B/C-2, Pushkin Fine Arts Museum, ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 95 78, www. artsmuseum.ru. This year Moscow’s largest museum of European art celebrates its 100th anniversary. As part of a programme of special events to mark the centenary they are staging this exhibition which aims to tell the story of the museum’s history, from its grand opening by the Tsar in 1912 up to the present day. The exhibition puts the museum’s history in context by using archival photographs and documents, displayed next to the actual artworks which they concern and also looks to the future by presenting the museum’s ambitious extension plans designed by British architect Norman Foster. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

C-2, State History Museum, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www.shm.ru. This joint project between the state museums of Russia and Germany illustrates the long and deep ties that have connected the two cultures over the centuries. The 700 items on display include manuscripts from celebrated Russian and German writers such as Dostoevsky and Schiller, historic treaties which were signed between the two countries including the 1939 pact, precious gifts which had been passed between the various emperors and tsars during times of peace, portraits, architectural sketches and blue prints, ancient religious manuscripts, cinematography, scientific displays and much more. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00.

Through 16.09 Sunday

We

Through 30.09 Sunday

Marc Chagall

Classical theatre: The Maly Theatre

C-3, Tretyakov State Gallery, Lavrushinsky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www. tretyakovgallery.ru. One of the most extensive exhibitions of the famous artist’s works ever seen in Russia. In honour of Chagall’s 125th birthday, the exhibition aims to bring together all elements of his extensive artwork and features a wide range of paintings, drawings, watercolours, collages, etchings and sculpture. A particular focus is also put on his international subject matter with paintings from his travels across the Slavic world featuring heavily, as well as famous works produced in Paris brought to Moscow with the help of French collectors. Other rare highlights from the collection include illustrations for Gogol’s Dead Souls, the Bible and La Fontaine’s fables. Q Open 10:30 - 19:30. Closed Mon.

C-3, Lumiere Gallery, Red October Chocolate Factory, Bolotnaya nab. 3, bldg. 1, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 98 78, www.lumiere.ru. The excellent Lumiere photography gallery has come yet again with another great exhibition which looks deep into Russian culture. The theme of this exhibition is portraits and they have collected together 300 different portraits of ordinary Russians taken over a 70 year period, providing a snapshot into the daily lives of Russians over the last century, with some dating all the way back to the 1920s. Q Open 12:00 - 21:00.

13.09 Thursday - 14.10 Sunday

Joseph Beuys: Call for an alternative

Modern theatre

Those more interested in testing their Russian knowledge on modern Russian plays should look out for the productions at newer theatres such as the Praktika Theatre or Moscow’s most recently opened experimental theatre Teatr.doc. naya, tel. (+7) 495 624 40 46. Second stage: C-4, Ul. Bol. Ordynka 69, MDobryninskaya, www.maly. ru. Q Tickets 50 - 2,500Rbl. UK Praktika Theatre B-1, Bol. Kozikhinsky per. 30, MMayakovsaya, (+7) 499 237 31 81, www.praktikatheatre.ru. Teatr.doc B-1, Tryokhprudny per. 11/13, bldg. 1 MMayakovskaya, www.teatrdoc.ru.

B-3/2, Moscow Museum of Modern Art (MMOMA), Gogolevsky bul. 10, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 231 36 60, www.mmoma.ru. Dedicated to the world famous modern German artist whose extensive and occasionally controversial artworks, made him one of the most influential German artists of the 20th Century. Joseph Beuys’ work is intense and thought-provoking. This impressive exhibition will show off some of his most famous installations brought over especially from Germany such as The End of the Twentieth Century and Tram Stop as well other artworks which the artist used to illustrate his unique thoughts on society. Videos of his most famous per formances will also be screened including How to Explain Pictures to a Dead Hare and I Like America and America Likes Me. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month.

Football in Moscow
Aug 3 4 10 11 17 18 25 25 Sep 1 1 14 15 21 22 29 Fixture CSKA Moscow - Zenit St. Petersburg Dinamo Moscow - Spartak Moscow Lokomotiv Moscow - Analia Vladikavkaz CSKA Moscow - Anzhi Makhachkala Spartak Moscow - Rubin Kazan Dinamo Moscow - Terek Groznyi CSKA Moscow - Krylya Sovetov Samara Lokomotiv Moscow - Dinamo Moscow Fixture Dinamo Moscow - Kuban Krasnodar Spartak Moscow - Lokomotiv Moscow Lokomotiv Moscow - Rubin Kazan CSKA Moscow - Analia Vladikavkaz Spartak Moscow - FK Rostov Dinamo Moscow - Amkar Perm CSKA Moscow - Dinamo Moscow Venue Khimki Khimki Lokomotiv Khimki Luzhniki Khimki Khimki Lokomotiv Venue Khimki Luzhniki Lokomotiv Khimki Luzhniki Khimki Khimki

19.09 Wednesday - 23.09 Sunday

Maly Theatre (MT) C-2, Teatralny pr. 1, MTeatral-

Art Moscow 2012

B/C-4, Central House of Artists, 10 Krymsky val, MPark Kultury, www.art-moscow.ru. This international art gathering is said to be the largest contemporary art fair in eastern Europe. The huge Art Moscow space is dedicated to showing the works from upcoming art galleries from across the world and is as popular with the usual appreciator of art as with more serious art collectors. As well as the art, there are also numerous art publications and magazines represented as well as works from the collections of local cultural institutions.

Arena Khimiki Stadium, ul. Kirova 24, Khimki (Moscow region). Buses to Khimki leave from MRechnoi Vokzal (north end of the green line) Lokomotiv Stadium, Bolshaya Cherkizovskaya ul. 125A, MCherkizovskaya, tel. (+7) 499 161 42 83, www.fclm.ru Luzhniki Stadium, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 02 62, www.luzhniki.ru August - September 2012

Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

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22

hotels
We‘ve selected a range of accommodation options from some of the top end wallet-busters down to the frugal and friendly options. Prices include VAT (18%) and breakfast unless otherwise indicated. All prices listed are according to the information received by us from hotels for the period August - September 2012. In Your Pocket assumes no responsibility for discrepancies and changes in pricing, that we have not been informed about directly by hotels.

Hotels
4 stars
Courtyard by Marriott B-2, Voznesensky per. 7,
MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 981 33 00, www.courtyardmoscow.com. The hotel is tucked away on a quiet side street facing an old Anglican church and the world-famous Red Square and Kremlin are just a short walk away giving you the best of both worlds: the comfort of the hotel’s peace and quiet, and the excitement of the accessible, fast-paced Tverskaya area. The inside courtyard’s massive glass roof radiates positive energy into the lobby. All guest rooms are also very well lit and feature ultra comfy beds and pillows. If you want a great view of the city, ask for a room on one of the top floors or if you like to people watch, choose a room with a courtyard view. Q218 rooms (Single/double 8,500 11,500Rbl, Suite 13,500 - 16,000Rbl). Breakfast 1,150Rbl. PJHARUFLKW hhhh

23

5 stars
Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya D-1, Ul. Kalanchevskaya 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. Pre-Hilton, the Leningradskaya was the city’s first hotel. The newly renovated, 273-room palatial hotel is a winning marriage of heritage and modern elegance. Rooms, as one might expect, are of an exceptional standard and have all the elegant trimmings. Soft furnishings and understated glamour abound. Highlights include majestic skyline views, a six-story long brass chandelier (listed in the Guinness Book of World Records) and a stately lobby. The huge marble pillared ballroom doubles as a conference hall, while the second smaller hall houses the Janus restaurant. Q273 rooms (239 doubles 10,000 - 14,000Rbl, 34 suites 18,000 - 75,000Rbl). VAT and breakfast (1,260Rbl) are not included. PHA6UFLGKDCW hhhhh Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow C-2, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/moscow. Without actually being the President, it would be hard to live closer to the Kremlin than this. Moscow’s first five star hotel is just across the river and has a stunning view of the Kremlin. The lobby is home to more business men than tourists. Rooms bear the mark of royalty and some suites literally have been designed by minor members of the British royal family. Suites also have the most sensational bathrooms, sure to one day grace the pages of design magazines. Brunch is served on Sundays and in-house dining options include the restaurant Baltschug Grill and the Berlin-style Cafe Kranzler. Q230 rooms (190 Single/Double 20,000 - 230,000Rbl, 40 Suite 26,000 - 130,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,900Rbl. Breakfast (1,800Rbl) and VAT are not included. PTHAR6UFLGDCwW hhhhh Lotte Hotel Moscow B-2, Novinsky bul.8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel. ru. This sparkling new hotel from the prestigious Korean Lotte hotel group offers top-class Asian standard service right in the centre of Moscow. The lobby is an opulent feast of specially commisioned blown glass chandeliers and real marble pillars, while the restaurant options are some of the hippest and most exciting in town. Upstairs you could drive a car in the gigantic ballroom whilst the spacious and luxurious bedrooms with discreet state-of-the-art extras all feature the kind of bathrooms you would expect to see in a very expensive spa. Due to the specially designed glass facade the noise of the street is completely inaudible throughout the hotel and we’ve rarely seen a better thought-out club lounge. Q300 rooms (Deluxe 35,000 - 36,500Rbl, Superior 37,000 - 38,500Rbl, Suite 55,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,700Rbl. VAT not included. Breakfast (1,600Rbl). PTHAR6UFL� GBKDCW hhhhh

Marriott Moscow Grand Hotel B-1, Ul. Tverskaya 26/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 00 00, www. marriottmoscowgrand.com. Situated conveniently on Tverskaya ulitsa, the Marriott Grand boasts luxurious rooms with modern stylings, fitness and health facilities, and European restaurants. The Grand is co-managed with two other Marriott hotels in Moscow, which ensures flexible booking. The rooms themselves offer a generous amount of space and freshness. Twin rooms come with two king-size beds that you could swim in. Natural light shines abundantly in their conference rooms and trademark foyer atrium and there are quality buffet lunches in the restaurant. Q386 rooms (371 single/double 31,000 - 34,500Rbl, 15 suites 45,000 - 125,000Rbl). Extra bed free of charge. Breakfast (1,450Rbl) and VAT not included. PTHAR6UFLGBKDCW hhhhh Marriott Moscow Royal Aurora Hotel C-1, Ul.
Petrovka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 937 10 00, www.marriott.com/mowdt. The presence of the Polo Club Steakhouse, an ode to a blue-blood English gentleman’s club, goes to show that the Marriott Royal Aurora is one for those looking for refinement. Butler service comes along with the hotel’s classically styled rooms, complete with enormous beds and quality furnishings. The team of well-trained, attentive butlers show guests to their rooms (champagne in-hand) and attend to each and every aspect of their stay. Executive facilities include private meeting rooms and lounges. Q231 rooms (195 Single/double 35,000 - 40,000Rbl, 36 Suite 45,000 - 125,000Rbl). Extra bed 500Rbl. Breakfast (1,800Rbl) and VAT not included. PTHA6UFL� GKDCW hhhhh vaya 15/1, bldg.1, MOkhotnyy Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 258 70 00, www.national.ru. Rub shoulders with history here: this century old building is one of the grand old dames of the Moscow hotel scene. The location doesn’t get any better and neither does the guest list! Previous guests include Lenin himself. The hotel, while honouring the past, is reassuringly modern in service standards and management. The rooms house not only comfortable beds and renovated bathrooms, but also original furniture and antique fittings. Q201 rooms (16 singles 15,200Rbl, 129 doubles 18,200 - 21,700Rbl, 56 suites 22,200 - 80,200Rbl). Extra Bed 1,200Rbl, VAT not included. Breakfast (1,750Rbl) not included in all room categories. PTHARUFLGKDCW hhhhh

Holiday Inn Lesnaya Ul. Lesnaya 15, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 783 65 00, www.moscow-hi.ru. In classic Holiday Inn style, the restaurant and cafe are modern and inviting, the rooms are well designed and make efficient use of space. Executive floors with their additional privileges account for two of their 11 floors and there is also a fitness centre for all guests. Classy black and white photos of Moscow remind you of what historical (and modern) delights are waiting for you just outside the door. Q301 rooms (17 suites 30,720Rbl, 284 single/double 16,000Rbl). Breakfast 980Rbl. PHA6UFLGKW hhhh Kadashevskaya Hotel C-3, Kadashevskaya nab. 26, MTretyakovskaya, tel. +7 (495) 287 87 10, www. kadashevskaya.com. This friendly little upmarket hotel is a great base for those wanting to escape from the sometimes soulless feel of Moscow’s larger and grander hotels. With just 35 rooms, the place feels intimate, yet there’s also enough space to feel that you are not bumping into the same people all the time. Rooms are elegantly decorated with soft cappuccino furnishings giving warmth to the minimalist design. The deluxe rooms are worth the extra money for those hoping for that riverside view and the rooms up in the attic may have slanted roofs but they also have a lot more floor space. Q35 rooms (doubles 12,000 - 16,000Rbl, suites 18,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. PTAUFLGDCW hhhh
kovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 09 00, www.hotelpeking. ru. An iconic building which sits directly in the centre of the city just steps away from Moscow’s biggest theatres and concert halls, Peking is a winning mix of history, location and modern convenience. Located in one of the historic Stalinist skyscrapers, the hotel maintains its attractive period features like tall ceilings and large windows which are combined with modern comfort and elegance in the hotel’s newly renovated rooms. All the hotel rooms offer noticeably more space than usual, especially some of the two-room suites, which vary in size and design. If you are a light sleeper ask for a room facing the courtyard. Q140 rooms (40 singles 6,700Rbl, 71 doubles 8,300Rbl, 29 suites 10,400Rbl). Extra bed 1,700Rbl. Breakfast 600Rbl. PTHAFLGKDCW hhhh

Booking.com
Russia In Your Pocket has been teamed up with Europe’s leading online hotel agency Booking.com to offer hotel booking direct from our website. Over 1500 hotels in Russia are already part of Booking.com’s online reservation agency and that’s up from 200 only two years ago, so business is clearly booming. All you need to do is read through our reviews online and if you like the look of a place click on the link and you’ll be directed straight to the venue’s booking page. Then you can browse through any special deals and offers without even picking up the phone. Simple as that! Head to our site russia.inyourpocket.com to try it out for yourself.

Peking Hotel B-1, Ul. Bolshaya Sadovaya 5, MMaya-

National, A Luxury Collection Hotel C-2, Ul. Mokho-

Symbol key
P Air conditioning O Casino T Child friendly R Internet F Fitness centre K Restaurant D Sauna 6 Animal friendly A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms M Nearest metro station C Swimming pool W Wi-Fi connection

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Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

moscow.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2012

24

Hotels
Mini hotels
Most, tel. (+7) 495 626 90 08, www.artelhotel.ru. Most of the guests here are artists or people who want to live vicariously through the lives of artists - which is understandable given its location a top a music club. Up at the top of the graffiti covered stairwell and past the neon lit reception desk you’ll find the rooms. Different artists were given free reign to create their own themes, meaning every room is completely unique. You can expect anything from a glass brick bathroom, to a floating mezzanine bed, surround sound speakers for your ipod or films projected onto your wall. The popular café/club downstairs offers more of the same and can be a nuisance for those wanting to sleep early or perfect if you want to stay out late and easily crawl back to your bed. Q23 rooms (23 singles 2,800 - 5,700Rbl, 22 doubles 3,300 - 6,300Rbl). Extra bed 500Rbl. PTAGBKW

RestauRants
Artel Hotel C-2, Teatralny pr. 3/3, MKuznetsky
Within the same Moscow city block you can find both good and bad service, five-star fine dining and hot dog snack vans. Muscovites love going out, so most restaurants tend to fill up quickly. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tipping is one Western tradition that Russians are making their own. Tip for good service only - around ten percent is considered fair. Our price guide is based on the average price of a main course: € - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl €€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus

25

Russian Cuisine
Traditional Russian food is rich and stodgy peasant-fare with a dash of French inspired creamy sauces and other scrumptious flavours. If you are wondering what that green grass stuff is, it’s dill (ukrop-укроп) and it usually finds its way into everything.

tel. (+7) 495 933 55 44, hotel-sretenskaya.ru. Two features immediately set the Sretenskaya hotel apart: a lush, balmy tropical garden with an informal bar and a quaint folklore-inspired décor. The latter sends you back to feudal times, to a wealthy boyar’s 16th Century home. The restaurant’s stained glass windows, thick royal blue curtains and carved wooden wide-back chairs also help to create a medieval atmosphere. All rooms have air conditioning systems, desks, mini bars and satellite tvs. A sauna, fitness centre and swimming pool are found downstairs. Q38 rooms (30 single/ double 11,550 - 12,540Rbl, 8 suite 12,144 - 17,490Rbl). Extra bed 990Rbl. PTHAUFLKDCW hhhh

Sretenskaya A-1, Ul. Sretenka 15, MSukharevskaya,

Russian and Ukrainian
bldg.4 (entrance on Podkolokolny per.), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 499 764 99 95, www.dacha-napokrovke.ru. The Dacha on Pokrovka is the place if you are looking for simple Russian fare in original and quirky surroundings. Spread over the upper floor of a crumbling medieval mansion this café/restaurant with its collection of Soviet and pre-Soviet armoires, radios, telephones and crockery of the kind you’d usually find at a flea market, certainly has a special ind of charm. The menu focuses on simple Russian classics while in the summer months a barbeque grill kicks off in the leafy garden out front with succulent shashlik. Live music most evenings. Q Open 12:00 - 06:00. €. PTAEBSW

Dacha na Pokrovke D-2, Pokrovsky bul. 16-18

Hostels
Comrade Hostel D-2, Ul. Maroseyka 11, 3rd floor (go under arch to the left of the playground to find building entrance), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 628 31 26, www. comradehostel.com. Not only is the location superb, but the atmosphere is friendly and intimate. With the addition of double rooms Comrade is also ideal for those looking to skip staying in a dorm but also stick to a low budget. The owner, Denis, has a good grasp of what travellers need and makes sure that the communal kitchen maintains an inviting, cleanly and positive atmosphere, ideal for enjoying a communal meal or just a friendly cup of tea. He also never hesitates to provide guests with sound insider city information or give in-the-know expert Russia travel advice. Q (doubles 1,900Rbl, Dorm bed 650Rbl). JNGW

Bliny and snacks

3 stars
Azimut Moscow Tulskaya Hotel Varshavskoye shosse 9, MTulskaya, tel. (+7) 495 987 22 22, www. azimuthotels.ru. A stellar mid-range option with much more style and verve than Moscow’s usual offerings. The clever ex-industrial ‘loft’ design perfectly incorporates its 19th Century factory building’s historic details like vaulted ceilings, brick walls and cast-iron columns with hip lighting and modern minimalist chic. Rooms vary in size, but all are remarkable for their clever use of space and abundance of nifty gadgets and super rain showers. Numerous trams stop directly in front heading to the metro station which is a ten minute walk away. Q146 rooms (106 doubles 4700 - 9300Rbl, 38 Deluxe 5700 - 10800Rbl). Extra bed 800Rbl. Breakfast 600Rbl. PTAULKW hhh Hotel Ermitage D-2, Durasovsky per.7, MKurskaya, Chkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 917 19 19, www.ermitagehotel.ru. A great location in a quiet and historical part of the Pokrovka-Kitay Gorod area of the city. There are dozens of great restaurants and cafes in this part of town and the calm backstreets here have a certain romantic charm to them. The decor of the rooms may look a little outdated for modern minimalist tastes but everything is neat and tidy, clean and functional and the room price-size ratio is good for Moscow. A particularly pleasing aspect is the proximity to the circle line metro and the main train stations. Q65 rooms (18 singles 3,900Rbl, 45 doubles 5,900Rbl, 2 suites 6,800Rbl). Extra bed 1,500Rbl. Breakfast included, additional if requested 200Rbl. PHAKW hhh
letskaya, tel. (+7) 495 661 85 00, www.ibishotel.com. Budget hotels like this are few and far between in Moscow. A completely new building, with brand new rooms and facilities just ten minutes from the train station and a short distance from the very heart of Moscow. Those concerned about their carbon footprint as well as their wallets are welcomed with open arms as are disabled travellers. Rooms are bright and functional and the ones facing north are particularly large. With the appearance and service attitude of an upmarket hotel, this is a great budget option. Q147 rooms (126 singles 3,900 - 8,900Rbl, 21 doubles 5,100 - 10,100Rbl). Extra bed (1,000Rbl). Breakfast 720Rbl. PTA6ULGKW hhh

Snacks (zakuski -закуски) are very popular and include all manner of pickled things (solyony-соленый ) as well as small open sandwiches (buterbrod-бутерброд). Pancakes (Bliny - блины) are very popular and may come with savoury fillings such as ham (vetchina-ветчина), caviar (ikra-икра), cheese (syr-сыр), mushrooms (griby-грибы) or sour cream (Smetana-сметана) or with sweet filling such as honey (myod –мед) or condensed milk (sgushonka - сгущенка).

Soups and salads

Apartments
Air B n B , w w w.airbnb.com. This popular online
company started out in California matching up people wanting to rent out their homes to guests, with travellers looking for hotel alternatives, in what can be considered to be just a more elaborate version of the traditional ‘homestay’ system. Launched in Russia in early 2012 the website already features hundreds of apartments to rent in Moscow and across Russia, as well as private rooms. Prices can start from as little as 1,000Rbl per night for a room, or 5,000Rbl for a whole flat, stretching up to tens of thousands for the chance to rent out somebody elses luxury city centre home. Tort Napoleon - a must for the 200th anniversary of Borodino! Korchma Taras Bulba C-3, Ul. Pyatnitskaya 14, MNovoskuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 71 53, www. tarasbulba.ru. This popular Ukranian restaurant chain is great fun in a kitsch style. The running country theme is done up to the max, from the colourful folkloric interior to the staff members’ extravagant traditional costumes. They serve hearty traditional Ukrainian food and the menu is very long and wide-ranging, although you do have an option to get most dishes in small portions so you can taste a lot of everything. There are 14 Moscow locations including one right by the Kremlin with a nice summer terrace at ul. Mokhovaya 8, bldg.1 (metro Biblioteka im. Lenina). Q Open 09:00 - 02:00 €€. PJALGBXS

Russians are big on soup (sup- суп) and there are literally hundreds of different kinds. The quintessential Russian soup is of course the beetroot and beef based borsch. Ukha (уха) a fish soup often made with salmon or trout is another favourite as is the heavy meaty ‘hunters’ soup Solyanka (солянка). Russian salads invariably have mayonnaise in them and are a permanent feature on any menu. The classic Russian salad is Olivye (оливье) - boiled potatoes, carrots, peas and eggs, pickled Cucumbers with either cheap spam ham or something luxurious like lobster, sturgeon or crayfish. Selyodka pod shuboy (селедка под шубой) which translates as ‘herring under a fur coat’ is another popular salad consisting of layers of pickled herring, boiled potatoes and beetroot.

Main dishes

Ibis Paveletskaya Ul. Shchipok 22, bldg.1, MPave-

Symbol Key
P E T G V B Air conditioning Live music Child friendly Non-smoking venue Home delivery Outside seating A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking M Nearest station W Wi-Fi connection

Pelmeni (пельмени) - boiled dumplings stuffed with meat and served with sour cream. Varenki (вареники) are the same but stuffed with vegetables or sweet fillings. Uzbek versions (manty - манты) are slightly bigger and often steamed, while the Georgian versions (khinkali хинкали) are huge and eaten with the hands. Beef stroganoff (бефстроганов) - a Russian classic, famous across the world. Pirogi/pirozhki (пироги/пирожки) - pies (usually made with bready yeast dough) stuffed with meat, cabbage, mushroom, fruits or even potato. Pirozhki are the small versions that look like little buns. Kotlety (котлеты) - little meat patties usually made with minced beef (govyadina - говядина) or pork (svinina - свинина). Frikadelki (фрикадельки) are meatballs and similar in taste but made with rice and meat and usually served with a sauce.

Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

moscow.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2012

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RestauRants
Street Café Culture
Almost every single restaurant and café which we have chosen to feature this issue has some kind of open terrace, courtyard area or open-air street side seating. Summer in Moscow is all about making the most of the sunshine and being outside! There are also certain parts of the city which are closed to cars and where the al fresco cafe culture is in full swing. Once the sun is out the car-free Kamergersky pereulok (C-3) is filled to the brim with street side cafes and restaurants and is bustling with drinkers and diners at all times of day. Take your pick from Chinese, sushi, pasta and pizza, Russian cuisine, French bakeries and coffee all just 5 minutes walk from Red Square. Ulitsa Arbat (B-2) is another pedestrianised street lined with street cafes from all the major chains such as Costa Coffee and Wendy’s as well as their many Russian counterparts. Round the corner on the significantly less pretty ulitsa Novy Arbat (B-2) there are also dozens of street cafes and restaurants to choose from. The garden boulevards are also a popular place for sitting outside and watching the world go by - particularly the area along Nikitsky bulvar (B-2) close to the Arbatskaya metro station and around the Chistoprudny bulvar (D-1/2).

RestauRants
Na Melnitse (At the Mill) D-1, Ul. Sadovaya-Spasskaya 24, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 625 88 90, www.namelnitse.ru. Let the door swing shut behind you: You’ve stepped into a Russian village scene, with a working water mill, a carp pond and peasants as waiters. The food is strictly Russian: meat, game, fish, stuffed Russian pies, mushroom dishes, scrumptious mors (a bitter berry drink) and mayonnaise salads. Everything is made according to the best traditions of ancient Rus meaning you get generous portions and very rich sauces. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTAULBS Pavilion B-1, Bolshoy Patriarshy per. 7, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 51 10, www.restsindikat.com. The white tuxedoed waiters, palm trees, period pavilion building, crisp tablecloths and various old family photos that decorate this large dining room overlooking the beautiful Patriarch’s ponds all combine to give off an elegant period feel worthy of an Agatha Christie novel and which the restaurant describes as ‘Soviet 1950s’. The menu certainly looks Soviet retro in design, but thankfully the food is all in the best traditions of rich pre-Soviet kitchens. The salads here are particularly good and should win over Russian salad skeptics. Make sure you don’t fill up too much on the huge moreish main dishes and save some appetite for one of their popular desserts. In winter you can watch as the locals skate on the frozen pond and in summer relax on the large waterside terrace. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAEBSW Zhiguli B-2, Ul. Novy Arbat 11/2, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 691 41 44, www.zhiguli.net. A Soviet retro themed Russian beer hall with branding from the local beer producers Zhiguli. Downstairs is the cheap fast food canteen style area which has a nice view of the pedestrians scurrying along Novy Arbat. Further on is the restaurant proper where they crank up the old Soviet hits in the evenings and weekends for the oldies wanting a boogie. The food is decent Russian fare, the evening atmosphere is fun and the Zhiguli beer matches it all perfectly. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. €€. Dzhon Dzholi B-1, Ul. Tverskaya 20, blgd. 1, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 55 67, www.ginzaproject. ru. Dzhon dzholi is another exponent of that concentrated casualness of the country kitchen that is all the rage in Moscow - and this time they even go so far as to install a huge stone oven. The reason you really come here is to eat though, and for anyone new to Georgian food this is a good and easily accessible introduction. Khachapuri and huge shashlik of course top the bill, but they also have other well-formed local delights hidden in there too like mchadi (sweetcorn fritters) and chicken chkmeruli (garlic chicken) which should excite the taste buds. Their huge covered summer terrace, is almost as big as the restaurant itself. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€. PTABSW

27

Elardgy B-3, Gagarinsky per. 15a, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 627 78 97, www.ginzaproject.ru. This sophisticated and elegant concept promises home-style Georgian food. Looking through the menu you’ll find some unusual dishes made with offal and various other animal bits plus the usual khacaupuri (cheese bread), shashliks (kebabs) and spiced vegetable starters. The food is hearty enough without swimming in grease although why the drinks cost almost as much as the meat is baffling. Nevertheless, the real reason to come here is to soak up the atmosphere, which is akin to being on a posh southern country estate, complete with romantic covered terraces and a large private courtyard and garden with ice-skating in the winter and rocking chairs and tree swings in the summer. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. €€. TAEBSW Khodzha Nasreddin v Khive D-2, Ul. Pokrovka 10, bldg. 2, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 917 04 44, www.nasreddinhiva.ru. Khodzha what? Allow us please to translate it for you - welcome to ‘Nasreddin the Wise in the city of Khiva‘. Khiva is of course a silk road gem and Nasreddin a popular wiseman and humorist from medieval legend. The restaurant is set out as an elaborate remake of the silk road city, complete with minarets, little hideaways behind grand carved doors and birds in cages. Sounds tacky, but actually it is very inviting. The food on offer is an excellent introduction to Central Asian cuisine, from the delicious pies and flamed meat, to the exotic plov (pilau) for which the region is famous. Some of the more complex dishes take a while to make, but they are usually worth the wait. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALEBSW Madame Galife C -1, Prospekt Mira 26/1 (entrance on Grokholsky per.), MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 775 26 01, www.madamgalife.ru. Madame, do you have a table near the window? If you are lucky enough to get your way, you will enjoy an enchanting, close-up view of one of Moscow’s smaller botanical gardens and the quirky homemade surroundings of Madame’s parlour room. Many of the items on the Georgian menu are prepared expertly on the rustic charcoal grill that sizzles to the left of the dining room entrance and the giant khachapuri is irresistible. But if you show up unannounced (and yes, you must ring a buzzer to be let in) and without a reservation, then you will be shown to the basement room, tucked in a corner somewhere and deprived of all that makes this magical restaurant so fun to dine in. Q Open 12:00-05:00, Sat, Sun 14:00-05:00. €€. PTAVEBS To read about hundreds more cafes and restaurants in Moscow and keep up to date with all our latest listings, check out our website moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com August - September 2012

Lucien C-1, Ul. Gilyarovskogo 65, bldg. 1, MRizhskaya,

tel. (+7) 495 997 76 65, www.lucienrest.ru. Lucien recreates the style, sophistication and tastes of the Russian nobility in the 19th and early 20th Century. The story starts as soon as you enter the door and are greeted by elegantly dressed waiters who lead you into a gorgeous Victorian style parlour scattered with palm trees and pristine white tableclothed tables. Opening the menu you are met by classic French, Russian and Jewish inspired cuisine. Don’t miss out on the signature Olivier salad with smoked fish for starters and then follow it up with quail, duck confit, sturgeon, veal, beef tenderloin or a classic Stroganoff… the mouthwatering list goes on. All the mains are matched with exquisite garnishes depending on the dish such as warm beetroot-apple pie or Russian pancakes stuffed with porcini mushrooms. If you are in a large group try out the Samovar option - tea from a real Russian samovar with all the traditional accompaniments. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTABSW

Caucasian/Central Asian
Chaihona No.1 C-1, Hermitage Sad, MChekhovskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 790 00 32, www.chaihona.com. Pleasing and fresh, this is a cosy little beach hut where you are surrounded by embroidered wall hangings. Perfect for lounging, either on the downstairs couches or the upstairs mezzanine with their powerful sound system playing longe music in the background. Plaited bread with sulguni cheese and spicy marinated chicken with peppers and fresh tangy herbs came out in no time at all. The inspired tapestry portrait of Prime Minister Putin, sadly, is not for sale. 14 other locations in the city including ul. Sadovo-Samotechnaya 20, bldg. 1 (metro Tsvetnoy bulvar) and Gorky Park. Q Open 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PTAILVBSW 499 265 78 76. When there is an empty vodka bottle rolling around the floor which no one has picked up, you know what kind of place you’re in. It is filled with in-the-know locals and expatriated Georgians who are the key to the happy, hearty atmosphere: they don’t even need the menu to order. Shashlik (shish kebabs) come only in pork, or maybe you want it in a lavash wrap. However, when you spend all your time grilling just one kind of meat, it ought to be good. And it is. The pork has been licked by the firey flames and is coated in a crispy fried seasoning. The lobio (red bean dish) is fresh, spicy and riddled with creamy walnuts and pomegranate seeds and word is these are the best khinkali (giant dumplings) in Moscow. The restaurant is located near the Gogol Theatre. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €. PNSB

Mari Vanna B-1, Spiridonyevsky per. 10a, MPushkins-

Chito-Ra D-2, Ul. Kazakova 10/2, MKurskaya, tel. (+7)

kaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 65 00, www.marivanna.ru. Bookings for this popular restaurant are essential as the idea is that you are eating as if at a friend’s house and what kind of guest would turn up unexpected? With a reservation safely made the door to the flat will be unlocked for you and you’ll be invited in to dine on traditional Russian home food such as borsch, pelemeni and pirogi in a cute little place designed to look like an old (but unbroken) Russian flat. The food itself is not mind-blowing, just plain good and filling but the service and homely atmosphere, complete with toys and crayons for the kids and the odd family pet trotting around certainly make it a memorable experience. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAVGS

Moscow In Your Pocket

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RestauRants
Sightseeing Snacks
On the tourist trail and looking for a bite to eat between sights? Here are some ideas for somewhere to fill up. Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 91 71, www.sakhli.ru. Sakhli is a class act with a menu developed from old Georgian family recipes, a very warm and inviting country home style interior, complimented by a quiet summer terrace. Of particular note are the excellent lobio kakhetinsky (kidney beans with onions and spices), the irresistible cheese khinkali (giant cheese filled dumplings) and the grilled meats. A mix of cold phakhli (a kind of thick Georgian dip) featuring aubergines, spinach and sweet peppers is great for groups, while the desserts are nicely displayed to help you make up your mind about how to finish up an excellent meal. The lovely ethnic themed summer terrace is hidden in the back. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €. PTAEBW

RestauRants
Sakhli С-1, Bolshoy Karetny per.6, bldg.1, MTsvetnoy

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Asian
MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 930 29 25, www. darbar.ru. Superb view with superb food. Sure, Leninsky prospekt is not the most central place in the city, but it’s worth the trek to dine here, if you want a view to die for and some of the best Indian food in the city! Darbars serves traditional southern Indian cuisine and attracts a strong following of faithful Indian expats. It is tastefully decorated in a minimal style although if you prefer the style of your own sofa they also can deliver their tasty Indian food to your door. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTALVSW

Darbars Hotel Sputnik, Leninsky pr. 38,16th floor,

Taste of Japan
Nobody can quite say when or how it started but in recent years Russians have gone crazy about Japanese cuisine - and in particular sushi. Being somewhat ubiquitous in Moscow now it can be difficult to find authentic Japanese food. The following places are amongst the better restaurants specialising in Japanese food. Aozora Hotel Sputnik, Leninsky pr. 38, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 930 58 30, aozzora.com. You know how people often tell you that once you’ve eaten sushi in Japan you can’t really go back to eating it anywhere else? Well what about when you are in Moscow and find yourself in a restaurant full of Japanese people eating sushi - must be a good sign right? Well we will admit Aozora is located in a large hotel, but nevertheless. The interior here is an effective mix of gold leaf, samurais and steely grey and the menu doesn’t disappoint. As well as sashimi and sushi/rice boxes, there are great udon soups, grilled fish, tempura and for the fat wallets - real Kobe beef. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €. PTAVSW

The Kremlin/Red Square

Directly on Red Square the GUM department store is an obvious place to search for sustenance. Budget diners should look out for the Stolovaya 57 canteen on the top floor while if you have money to burn you can enjoy Red Square’s only street café Bosco. For fast food there’s also the food court of the Okhotny Ryad shopping centre (opposite the Aleksandrovsky Gardens) while if you venture a little further away from the square to the north there’s plenty of choice of places on Kamegersky pereulok and along Bolshaya Dmitrovka ulitsa.

American and Latin American
Corner Burger (CBBG76) B-1, Ul. Bolshaya Gruzinskaya 76, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 926 83 98, www.cornerburger.ru. Possibly the only American joint in town not running a full on diner theme, but that doesn’t mean there’s anything lacking in the menu. Corner Burger focuses on the obvious, which unusually come in an English muffin or German pretzel (we recommend the muffin). The meat comes serves medium to rare and is definitely noticeably higher quality than usual. Vegetarians also get their own veggie burger, while sweet tooths will be delighted to see that the outstanding cake company next door provides the desserts. All round corner burger has a classy New York feel, heightened by the motown soundtrack and dim minimalist interior. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. €€. PTABSW Hungry Duck Bar & Grill D-1, Sadovaya-Chernogryazskaya 8/2, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 782 50 65, www.thehungryduck.ru. Once the proud owner of the title ‘world’s wildest bar’, before it was closed down in the late 1990s, the Hungry Duck has returned in a completely new guise as an American style bar and grill. The new Duck is set in a three storey mansion on the Garden Ring with a large central hall based around a huge round bar as well as upper floors with rooms for watching sports. The menu is full of all-American classics - huge juicy ‘go nuts’ burgers, steaks, tex-mex and the like, with lighter pasta dishes added for nonAmerican tastes - no one goes hungry here as the portions are giant. At night the party kicks off with DJs playing pop and dance music and happy hours are a permanent fixture during the week. Q Open 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PAESW

Druzhba B-1, Ul. Novoslobodskaya 4, MNovoslobodskaya, tel. (+7) 499 973 12 34, www.drugba.ru. This place is wildly popular with the local Chinese community (always a good sign) and packed every day. Service is swift (let’s hope that’s because it was a wok and not a microwave…) and friendly. The portions are huge and if there is something specifically Chinese that you want such as a hot pot or spicy egg noodle soups, they can probably whip something up for you. Indeed most of what you get here tastes exciting and authentic - must be all that MSG. The layout of the main room can make it feel a bit claustrophobic and smokey when really busy. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €. PTNS Maharaja D-2, Ul. Pokrovka 2/1, bldg.1 (entrance from Starosadsky per.), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 621 98 44, www.maharaja.ru. Genuine Indian hospitality. From the moment you reach the door, you’ll receive ser vice wor thy of a Maharaja in this well-established Indian restaurant, which is popular with the local Indian community. The menu is huge and has all the favourites such as Madras, Rogan josh and tikka masala and believe us their curries are the real deal. If you want spice, you’ll get spice - the vindaloo will have even the hardest nuts crying into their naan breads. Worth every penny. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PAS Roni C-1, Ul. Petrovka 20/1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 625 26 06, novikovgroup.ru. Roni is a very Moscow style ‘gastropub’ - the staff are certainly less snooty than usual, the food is still top quality and the seating has a casual feel to it, but the chandeliers, low lighting and house music remind you that this is still Moscow underneath it all. If you like Asian spices you will love Roni, the menu is imaginative and strongly flavoured. There’s a focus on Japanese cuisine with most dishes cooked on either robata grill or the restaurant’s large open teppanyaki iron grill. Korean, Malaysian and Chinese influences are also prominent and without a doubt this kitchen really knows what it is doing. QOpen 12:00 24:00. €€. PASW

MEGU B-2, Lotte Hotel Moscow, Novinsky bul. 8,

In the area immediately next to the cathedral and the adjacent Pushkin Fine Arts museum there’s not a vast amount of dining options aside from the perfectly reasonable Italian restaurants Akademiya and Il Patio and the Khleb and Co. bakery to choose from. If you have time another option can be to walk over the bridge from the cathedral and rest up at one of the fashionable restaurants and bars in the Red October Factory area such as the excellent Bontempi or Strelka Bar.

Cathedral of Christ the Saviour

bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. Popular in New York’s fine dining circles MEGU brings its flair for finding the finest ingredients with it to Moscow and is quite simply the premier Japanese restaurant in town. Finally here’s the chance to find out what Japanese service standards and fine dining are really about. Signature dishes such as the irresistible Kanzuri shrimp or the premium Wagyu Kagero Yaki (stone grilled wagyu steak) are emblematic of just how much dedication goes into this food. The volcanic hot stones are taken from remote mountain rivers in Japan, the kanzuri chili is specially preserved in snow - and don’t even get us started on the fish! The discreet atmosphere is perfect for business discussions or intimate dinners. Watch out for the great lunch deal - perfect for the full culinary experience on a smaller budget. Q Open 12:00 - 22:30, Fri 12:00 - 01:00, Sat 14:00 - 01:00, 14:00 22:30. €€€€. PTAUW

Tretyakov Galleries

If you are around the area of the ‘old’ Tretyakov (Lavrushinsky pereulok) look out for the pleasant café Alderban, or head out towards Pyatnitskaya ulitsa where there’s a Russian self-service restaurant Grabli, as well as a branch of the popular Ukrainian chain Taras Bulba, a low-priced Caucasian restaurant Shesh Besh and a handful of Irish pubs all right next to the metro. Over at the ‘new’ Tretyakov on Krymsky val there’s a pleasant self-service café in the neighbouring Central House of Artists, while Gorky Park on the other side of the street is bursting with snack shacks and restaurants. Out at the Novodevichy convent there are a few convenient places to stop off on your way back to or from the metro. Turning directly to your right as you exit the Sportivnaya metro (at the Luzhniki stadium exit) a few metres down a small alley there’s a small café and bar called Spektor with a reasonable menu of international hits. Over by the monastery there is also a lovely café-bar called Golubka with a trendy interior and imaginative menu. Golubka also has a delicatessen in the back if you would like to grab something fresh to enjoy on the go.

Starlite Diner C-1, Strastnoy bul. 8a, MChekhovskaya,

Novodevichy convent

tel. (+7) 495 989 44 61, www.starlite.ru. It’s most certainly American and those red booths are the real thing - the only Russian elements here are the electric sockets. You’ll hear more English spoken in this diner than anywhere else in Moscow, which adds to the otherworldly home-away-from-home experience. The menu spins out all the classics in authentic style, including huge waffles, burgers and giant milkshakes made with oreo cookies, massive breakfast and huge filter coffees from the pot. American diners are now de rigeur in Moscow but Starlite are still the original and best. They now have five 24hour venues with the original being the giant silver truck in a leafy garden near Mayakovskaya metro (Bol. Sadovaya 16), although our favourite is the latest spacious venue on Stastnoy bulvar. Q Open 24hrs. €€. PTALBSW

Beer Restaurants
Durdin D-7, Ul. Bolshaya Polyanka 56, MDobryninskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 52 00, www.durdin.ru. Beer hall Durdin has five original home brews on tap, and happily they’re available in a taster of five small glasses for the price of a regular 0.5L glass. Served with grenki (deepfried bread with garlic), this is the perfect start to any beer drinking adventure. Those watching their cholestrol better stick with salad. The sausage specials are delicious and the cabbage and potato garnishes are spicy and colorful. If you do order a large platter, be warned that they will take some time to assemble - in fact anything you order takes a while to arrive, so be tactical. You can also order beer by the keg up to 20L and also beer to take away. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAESW moscow.inyourpocket.com

Oconomy B-1, Ul. Bolshaya Bronnaya 27/4, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 12 43, www.oconomy. ru. This simple and cheap little café has the ambition of promoting another of Japan’s staple foods to a city that seemingly loves Japanese cuisine only for its sushi rolls. Oconomy specialises in okonomiyaki, a quick dish often referred to as ‘Japanese pizza’ which mainly consists of cabbage, dough, ginger and green onions served on a hot pan. It comes with various fillings ‘as you like it’ (or as they say in Japanese okonomi) and is touted as an extremely healthy and balanced meal. There are around ten filling combos with meat, fish and vegetarian options and as well as okonomiyaki they also serve soups, salads and soba. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €. PNG ZeNQ C-2, Tretyakov Plaza shopping galleries (1st floor), Ul. Nikolskaya 10, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 641 32 02, www.aozzora.com. Well hidden in the bottom left end of the upscale Nikolskaya shopping centre, ZenQ is a perfectly accomplished little Japanese joint. As well as the usual popular rolls and sashimi, they have a wide selection of huge soups, some of which are very spicy. There’s also an abundance of good traditional meat and rice options to choose from. The business lunch here is great value for the area and Japanese embassy staff can often be spotted tucking in to meals. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. €. PAVW August - September 2012

To read about hundreds more cafes and restaurants in Moscow and keep up to date with all our latest listings, check out our website moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com

Moscow In Your Pocket

30

RestauRants
Bakery Bliss
Gambrinus C-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 20/1, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 608 15 19, en-tzvetnoy.gbsbar.ru. A traditional Czech style beer restaurant with excellent brews and mighty Czech food to wash it down with. The huge platters of sausages are always a good choice while the Czech duck with apples and the ubiquitous sauerkraut is one of many extremely filling meaty main dishes. Alongside the Gambrinus home brews there’s also German classics such as Hofbrau and Paulaner to be enjoyed and it’s all available by the litre as well as in the usual 0.5 litre tankards. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€. A

RestauRants
European
Cafe Pushkin B-1, Tverskoy bul. 26a, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 00 33, www.cafe-pushkin.ru. This aristocratic restaurant, is extremely famous and popular with local business men and passing tourists. Diplomats, bankers and Moscow’s rich and famous now frequent it, but it used to be known as the city’s only upper class restaurant where you could eat European standard food and talk freely without being disturbed by the roaming ears of KGB men. The Russian and French cuisine recalls Tsarist times and on the first floor there is a sophisticated 24-hour café and a restaurant called the Library Room, which has a splendid view of Tverskoy Bulvar. Q Open 24hrs. €€€€. PTJAILVEBW
from Khlinovskogo Tupik, under the archway), MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 691 75 03, www.kv44.ru. Wine bar, piano bar or a homing beacon for the city’s underground? Shelves stocked with books and the green and black interior create a comforting darkness. Not as lively as an artistic Parisian bar; here the main action comes from the piano player hitting the keys with gusto. Secluded enough to make it ideal for a few hours of relaxing wine-fuelled conversation, the food is a reliable mix of pastas, salads and French influenced meat dishes. Also have a nice courtyard location at ul. Malaya Yakimanka 24/8 (metro Polyanka). Q Open 12:00 - 02:00. Fri, Sat until last guest. €. PTAEW 7, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 629 34 94, www. gastroteka.ru. Prosty vyeshy - simple things - is the motto by which this great little wine bar runs. The low vaulted brick walls are painted white and only the odd bottle of wine on display here and there provides any kind of decoration. The excellent food - including fantastic sandwiches, luscious salads, risottos, homemade sausages, tapas and other goodies - is all sparklingly fresh, organic (for the most part) and beautifully presented. They have an excellent wine cellar and in warm weather their small courtyard terrace makes for a more visually exciting and sunny place to sit and sip. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. €. PASBW

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Bratya Karavaevy B-2, Tverskoy bul. 20, bldg. 4,

MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 628 84 44, www.karavaevi.ru. The little Brothers Karavaevy bakery and cafe can get a little overcrowded at lunchtimes, but there’s good reason why locals flock here to eat; the food is fresh, cheap and made in a flash. You can choose from simple baked goods like pies and sandwiches etc, or opt for some of their tasty fresh salads or something more substantial like ratatouille or a hearty soup which they can heat up for you. The paying system is all straight forward, just head to the counter and point out what you want, the server will put it together for you while the cashier counts it all up. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. €. PTGSW

Cafes, Coffee houses and bakeries
Aldebaran C-3, Bolshoy Tolmachyevsky per.4, bldg.1, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 62 68, www. acafe.ru. Upscale cafe with an impressive menu, Alderban is a great choice for coffee or a full meal if you happen to be in the area. The art nouveau décor, large windows and excellent salads mean it’s a very popular place for a light lunch for local office workers and at midday it can get quite hectic. Aldebaran’s location and tranquil atmosphere also make it ideal for loading up before or after a trip to the nearby Tretyakov gallery. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PTABSW Coffee Pyu D-1/2, Chistoprudny bul. 9, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 624 29 83. One half beauty salon, one half café - for manicures turn left and for coffee turn right. In addition to the aromatic coffee brews there’s also a wide range of teas as well as delicious cakes to enjoy. In a confident move ‘I drink coffee’ has an open kitchen, which is so low and open you could almost pull up a stool and sit at the counter and start pestering the chef - in fact the place is so hip and laidback, you almost get the feeling they wouldn’t even mind if you did. As you can see the chefs are working on simple light lunch meals such as salads, pastas and pizzas, which can be ordered in large portions for sharing as well as individual servings. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. €. PTAW Red Espresso Bar D-2, Ul. Myasnitskaya 24/7, MChistye prudy, tel. (+7) 495 790 78 11, www.redespressobar.com. It’s hard to miss this unusual red building and its distinctive logo The service here is speedy - which in this town suits us just fine. Order at the bar, tell them your name and they’ll holler you down when it’s ready. The huge fresh sandwiches are a bargain and the coffee beats most of the other big name competitors hands down. Also at ul. Bolshaya Gruzinskaya 69 (metro Belorusskaya). Q Open 24hrs. PAUBSW Tsiferblat D-2, Ul. Pokrovka 12 (entrance in the yard), MKitay Gorod, www.clockfaces.ru. A café turned common room, Clockface works on a unique concept whereby you pay for the time you spend here and everything else (provided they have it) is complimentary. When you arrive you select a clock and your name and time is written on a board, when you leave you pay for each minute you stayed - 2Rbl per minute for the 1st hour, and 1Rbl per minute after that. You can help yourself to tea, coffee and biscuits from their little kitchen and you are welcome to bring in your own sandwiches etc too. Dozens of board games, chess and backgammon sets are available and there’s also free wifi and large tables for working or studying. No alcohol and no smoking. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. GW

Kvartira 44 B-2, Ul. Bolshaya Nikitskaya 22/2 (enter

Legendary sandwiches for 199 rubles

MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 77 42, www.lpq.ru. This Belgian bakery with outlets the world over brings its rustic down-to-earth bread philosophy to Moscow. Long wooden tables, delicious coffee served in bowls perfect for dipping your croissant in, Belgian tartines (open-face sandwiches), salads and cheese boards are all on offer. Many locations have excellent street terraces including this one just a short distance from Red Square, and all the ‘LPQ’ (as they are affectionately nicknamed by locals) also run great value lunch deals on weekdays. Has numerous locations across the city including at Evropeisky Shopping Centre, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala (metro Kievskaya), ul. Pyatnitskaya 6/1, bldg. 1 (metro Tretyakovskaya) and ul. Lesnaya 5 (metro Belorusskaya). Q Open 07:00-24:00. €. PJAVBSW

Le Pain Quotidien C-2, Kamergersky per. 5/6,

Prostye Vyeshy B-2, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 14/2, bldg.

54/2 bât 1 rue Arbat, Moscou +7 (495) 783-16-38, +7 (495) 783-16-39

Paul B-1, Ul. Tverskaya 23/12, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 560 49 94, www.ginzaproject.ru. This little café is the first in Moscow from the French bakery and patisserie chain Paul. At the counter as you enter you can pick up breads, sandwiches, pastries and the like to go or alternatively you may opt to squeeze yourself into the small café area and enjoy a meal. Paul has a huge breakfast menu and is great for light lunch bites such as quiche or the irresistible croque madam. On the sweet side Paul’s pastries are scrumptious authentic French bites, we especially love the strawberry tarts and custard pies, and by and large everything is as mouthwatering as it looks. Paul also now has a second outlet at ul. Arbat 54/2, bldg. 1 (metro Smolenskaya). Q Open Mon - Fri 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. €. PASW

Shatyor D-2, Chistoprudny bul. 12a, MChistye Prudy,

23/12 bât. 1 rue Tverskaya, Moscou +7 (495) 560 49 48, +7 (495) 560 49 94

tel. (+7) 495 916 90 90, www.nostalgie.ru. This huge tented restaurant jutting out into the Chistye Prudy pond, is a great place to spend the day snacking on grilled meats and knocking back fresh iced drinks. Wherever you decide to sit, whether in the main tented area (with open glass walls) or on the verandas along the sides, you are guaranteed a cushioned chair and a fresh breeze. The menu is filled with classic summer fair like kebabs and light pastas as well some heavier Caucasian offerings. Generally the food standard is good although there are perhaps too few wait staff to keep up with the restaurant’s high capacity. QOpen 24hrs. €€. PTABSW

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Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com

Tapa de Comida C-1, Ul. Trubnaya 20/2, bldg. 3, MTrubnaya, tel. (+7) 495 608 20 07, www.tapadecomida.ru. Viva l’espana! Step off the mean streets of Moscow and say hola to the enchanting Tapa de Comida. Set up like a real Valencian cantina, this place looks and feels Spanish inside and out, complete with beautiful tiling, roughly painted mustard walls, football scarves, happy locals sipping wine at the bar and long Mediterranean style windows. This was the first tapas bar to open in Moscow and is still probably the best. The price to size ratio on the tapas dishes is nothing like on the Iberian peninsula - but that’s just typical Moscow, you get used to it. Q Open 24 hours. €€€. PTAIEBSW moscow.inyourpocket.com August - September 2012

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RestauRants
Roofs With a View
If you aren’t afraid of heights and like to gaze down over the expanse of this buzzing metropolis from up high, then you are in luck, Moscow has dozens of great panoramic view terraces. One of the most famous is the excellent Indian restaurant Darbars on the top of the Sputnik hotel which is popular with the Indian expat community. The nearby upscale Sky Lounge restaurant serving top international cuisine, has Moscow’s highest open terrace, some 22 floors above the city. Another top sky high dining location is White Rabbit, which has excellent fine dining and an open roof with panoramic views over the city centre from the 15th floor. Finally, although it’s only a mere eight floors up, the swanky rooftop cocktail and sushi bar O2 Lounge in the Ritz Carlton Hotel, has excellent views of the Kremlin and Red Square and is also good for celebrity watching.

RestauRants
Veranda 32.05 C-1, Hermitage Garden, Karetny Ryad
3, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 905 703 32 05, www. veranda3205.ru. Hidden away in the rear of the Hermitage Garden, this large café-bar-restaurant is a great little wood cabin hideaway where you can while away the hours with gallons of excellent homemade lemonade and pots of exotic tea. The decor is pure relaxation - mismatched reclaimed furniture painted in pastel colours, a hammock and big sofas hidden away in the back - and the staff are so effortlessly laidback and charming, you really feel encouraged to kick back and make yourself at home. The menu is an eclectic mix of filling soups, simple salads and sandwiches, with spring rolls, grilled dorado and even breakfast favourites like salmon and eggs thrown in. QOpen 11:00 until last guest. €. PNBW

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Park Life
Moscow’s parks are good places for seeking out relaxing summer cafes and bars - but only if you arrive during the week. Come to the park on the weekend when the whole of Moscow has descended to enjoy the sun and you could be queuing for hours for a bite to eat! If you are heading to Moscow’s most popular park, Gorky Park, there’s a wealth of places to choose from including the Italian Mercato, trendy snack bar Kiosk, colourful Uzbek restaurant Chaikhona no. 1, the Thai pavilion style Lebedinoye Ozero (which also opens as a bar at night) or the wooden beach with a fancy bar and restaurant attached called Olivkoye Plazh down next to the river. Meanwhile in Moscow’s many other parks which haven’t yet met the hipster invasion the situation is less chaotic and certainly a bit more aimed at the common man who needs only excellent barbequed kebabs and cold beer. Kolomenskoye park and Sokolniki are particularly noteworthy for their excellent shashlik barbeque restaurants which are much more down-to-earth than what’s on offer in fashionable Gorky Park – and accordingly cheaper.

International
skaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 44 27, www.academiya.ru. Just a hop, skip and a jump away from the Church of Jesus Christ the Saviour, this trendy glass box of a cafe/restaurant is understandably packed almost any time of day. They cater to the current fashions of Moscow offering mostly Italian and Japanese cuisine. The pizzas are large and come with many imaginative toppings, while the pasta and sushi although not as filling, is good quality fresh stuff. Akademiya can be a great place to stop off after sightseeing, although the staff can be quite slow and forgetful once the place fills up. Has seven other locations around the city, including one on Kamergersky per. just 5 minutes walk from Red Square. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PABCW

Akademiya B-3, Ul. Volkhonka 15/17, MKropotkin-

French
Bistrot Canaille B-2, Ul. Bolshaya Bronnaya 11, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 499 391 01 78, www.bistrotcanaille.com. Settled in beneath the trees on a tranquil little back street, this French bistrot gets top marks for atmosphere. Decorated in a humble yet effective style, all red chequered table cloths and rough green wood panelling, it’s not difficult to imagine finding a similar looking place in many a French village. Run by a French chef, Canaille does its absolute best to recreate the authentic French café scene and succeeds with full marks - so much so that it has become a favourite with the French expat community. There is great table wine for low prices, as well as mouthwatering duck, chicken, goat’s cheese, croque madame...the list goes on and on as do the hours you can happily spend here. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASBW

Darbars Hotel Sputnik, Leninsky pr. 38,16th floor, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 930 29 25, www.darbar.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTALVSW O2 Lounge C-2, The Ritz-Carlton hotel, ul. Tverskaya 3, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 225 88 88, www. ritzcarltonmoscow.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PJAULBW Sky Lounge Leninsky pr. 32a, 22nd floor, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 781 57 75, www. skylounge.ru. Q Open Sun-Wed 13:00 - 24:00, Thu-Sat 13:00-01:00. €€€. PTALBW White Rabbit B-2, Smolenskaya pl. 3 (top of Smolensky Passage building), MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 663 39 99, www.whiterabbitmoscow.ru. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. €€€. PTALBW

Delicatessen C-1, Ul. Sadovaya-Karetnaya 20, bldg.
2, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 39 52, www. newdeli.ru. In Moscow it’s often the impossible to find places that turn out to be the best and Delicatessen definitely falls into this category of hidden treasure. Go in to the courtyard of building 20 (where the coffee shop is), veer left and you will find a colouful entrance way announcing ‘thank you for finding us’. Down in this bustling basement with its gorgeous antique bar, enthusiastic foodies dig into an array of the chef’s favourite things. Ceviche, chocolate puddings, homemade pasta and more - the whole menu is a success. Some say the pizzas are the best in town, others say it’s the nicoise salad. For us feeling you’ve been let in on a great little secret is the real winning element. Reservations recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€. PASW (+7) 903 105 10 10, www.dodoproject.com. A stylishly compiled room looking out onto an immaculate yard whose gorgeous tiled floor and blonde wood tables are well matched to the pretty green aproned staff and the odd bit of greenery. Here laidback, welcoming and a little bit sophisticated is the all-encompassing vibe. The food is a spot on mix of simple European favourites made with fresh ingredients and the occasional splash of the exotic and with the menu reaching little more than a page the kitchen have little to struggle over. Lovely terrace in the yard. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00. €€. PTABSW

Cafe Michel A-2, Ul. Krasnaya Presnya 13, MKrasnopresnenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 252 50 44, www.cafemichel.ru. This classy French restaurant is worth seeking out, whether you are after a venue for discussing business or romancing someone special. The interior is imperially inspired with classic palatial corniced ceilings and soft lighting, but is kept modern with bare brick walls and old movies projected on the walls. The menu is brief but delectable and the emphasis is put on doing the French classics like onion soup and Parisian salad well, as well as providing great seasonal offerings. It’s worth holding out for dessert to try their famously addictive macaroons. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAW Jean Jacques Rousseau B-2, Nikitsky bul. 12, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 38 86/+74956903886, jan-jak.com. This popular French bistro boasts a successful recipe of high standard French cafe fare. Waitresses in their black waistcoats bustle around the red and black cafe, which is decorated with long mirrors and millions of wine bottles in on-site storage. They do breakfast, lunch and keep going on into the night with carafes of house wine. Water from the cooler is free of charge, be sure to ask them to bring a bottle to your table. Also at Tsvetnoy bul. 24, bldg. 1 (metro Tsvetnoy Bulvar) and Verkhnaya Radishevskaya 15/2 (metro Taganskaya). Q Open 09:00 - 06:00. €€. PTALESBW

Cookery Classes
Taste of Russia D-2, Kazarmenny per.4, bldg. 3,
MKurskaya, tel. +7 (906) 717 82 90, (+7) 495 916 37 08, www.tasterussia.ru. So you’ve sampled the blini and the borsch and now you want to take these tastes back home with you. This is where Taste of Russia’s cooking school comes in handy. You don’t need to be Jamie Oliver to find yourself cooking up delectable treats here, the guidance from the charming professional chefs is expert and the ingredients provided are top notch and even the biggest cookery novices will find it’s all very easy to follow. As well as teaching you great insider tips and tricks, the whole experience is generally a lot of fun and by the end of it you’ll probably find you just made yourself the best Russian food you’ve tasted yet in Russia. More information about the different kind of classes they run can be found at their website. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.

Dodo C-1, Ul. Petrovka 21/ 2, MChekhovskaya, tel.

Food from Former Republics
One of the unquestionable pluses of Russia’s Soviet past is the popularity of restaurants serving cuisine from former Soviet republics. Of these the most popular both with locals and visitors is probably Georgian, but there are also Armenian, Uzbek, Azeri and Kazakh places, as well as generalised ‘Caucasian’ cuisine which appears all over the place. Although generally quite meat-heavy - a staple of Caucasian cuisine is the fabulous shashliky (grilled kebabs) which appear on every menu - food from this part of the world is also a good option for vegetarian visitors, making use of the vegetables and pulses native to that part of the world. Particularly popular dishes include Georgian khachapuri (cheese-stuffed bread), satsivi (chicken in walnut sauce), khinkali (giant meat-filled dumplings) and lobio (red bean stew with spices, herbs and pomegranate seeds), Uzbek plov (rice with lamb) and lagman (thick noodle and meat soup) and Armenian dolma (stuffed grape-leaves).

Carre Blanc C-1, Ul. Seleznevskaya 19/2, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 44 03, www.carreblanc.ru. Excellent French restaurant spread over many floors and rooms of a period Moscow house. French diplomats and visiting stars have all been spotted here (there’s plenty of secluded areas to hide away in) and the wine list is long and full bodied. On the menu you can expect to see luxury items such as fois gras, truffles and escargots as well as simpler French classics. The best part of the culinary experience here is trying the seasonal menus, oysters in autumn, asparagus in the spring, at Carre Blanc they don’t let any great seasonal products pass by without giving them a fancy twist. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PABW moscow.inyourpocket.com

Il Vicolo C-1, Marriott Royal Aurora Hotel, ul. Petrovka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 937 10 00, www. marriott.com/hotels/travel/mowdt. Tucked in to a quiet spot on the cobbled Stoleshknikov pereulok and shaded by many trees, tranquil Il Vicolo feels miles away from the centre of Moscow despite being just a short walk from the Kremlin. The outdoor terrace is a great spot for an upscale lunch with some refreshing homemade lemonade on the side and is also a relaxing venue to wind down in on a warm evening. The menu is enticing and very well made. Popular winners include the Asian style chicken with lemongrass, seafood cous cous, an accomplished and authentic schnitzel and the seafood bouillabaisse as well as the lighter club sandwiches and salads. They also open for breakfast. QOpen 08:00 02:00. €€€€. ALBSW moscow.inyourpocket.com

Moscow In Your Pocket

August - September 2012

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RestauRants
Kalina Cafe B-3, Prechistenskaya nab. 17, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 16 39, www.kalinacafe. ru. The sister establishment of the famous Kalina Bar, this stylish restaurant-bar really puts a focus on the food with an adventurous menu led by the creations of the young Italian head chef Michele Lanzani. New inventions are always finding their way into the menu but mouth-watering dishes such as the tatar of langoustines with wasabi foam or the tagliatta of beef with grappa are permanent features of the menu by popular demand. The wine list is extensive and cocktails here are expert. With a karaoke room, late night DJs and live music Kalina Cafe is also a great venue for glamorous late night drinks - especially when the dramatic view of the Moscow river and Red October factory is lit up. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. €€€. PALEW Minselkhoz C-1/2, Berlin House, ul. Petrovka 5, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 775 19 69, www.novikovgroup.ru. There’s a growing trend in Moscow for eating locally produced products and Minselkhoz is one of its flag-waving leaders. As you enter the restaurant, which is situated in the atrium of an upscale business centre, you are greeted by the deli counter where you can buy fruits, olives, homemade jams, cold cuts and the like to take away for a high price. Over in the restaurant proper, the menu offers a large mix of simple Russian and European classics as well as more complex creations. We would advise opting for the simpler dishes which allow the organic ingredients more chance to shine. They have great lunch deals, although given the restaurant’s location it is understandably busy during business lunch hours. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASBW Ragout B-1, Ul. Bolshaya Gruzinskaya 69 (entrance from 2-ya Brestskaya), MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 662 64 58, caferagout.ru. Be sure to make reservations here as Ragout is fast becoming one of the most popular places in town. A smart-casual ‘city-cafe’ atmosphere is well complemented by an equally simple and well-thought out menu. Despite the relatively restricted choice, it’s still impossible to choose, but fear not, standards are high across the board. Vegetarians will also be delighted to see there are lots of exciting things for them to eat too. Breakfasts here are also great and Sunday is an excellent time to visit when they have their informal family roast Sunday lunch. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PGAVBSW Sky Lounge Leninsky pr. 32a, 22nd floor, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 781 57 75, www.skylounge.ru. Fantastic! This restaurant is worth visiting just to experience the view alone. Perched up on the 22nd floor you can gaze over the whole of Moscow and admire the iconic seven sisters skyscrapers spreading out into the distance. Sky Lounge really has the monopoly on the one-of-a-kind panorama. The menu meets up to the general experience by being filled with well-crafted dishes covering a wide range of cuisines expertly. Many of the dishes are truly delightful such as the blue tuna fillet and the portions are more generous than you will see almost anywhere else. The wine list is long and filled with all kinds of treasures. There’s also an oyster bar and one floor above is the White Room which is available to hire for private parties. Q Open Sun-Wed 13:00 - 24:00, Thu-Sat 13:0001:00. €€€. PTALBW White Rabbit B-2, Smolenskaya pl. 3 (top of Smolensky Passage building), MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 663 39 99, www.whiterabbitmoscow.ru. Yes, it’s cliché to say, but finding your way up to this magical place really does feel a bit like Alice chasing that rabbit down the hole. First make sure you enter the Passage building from the right side entrance (next to the massive building site). This is the only way to find the lift. You then have to get in two separate lifts before you finally pop out at the atrium at the top with a glorious view over the city centre and its various skyscrapers. Upscale White Rabbit does serve some truly outstanding and memorable food and the kitchen is not likely to disappoint. The menu is imaginative and filled with treasures too long to list here, so just take your pick and enjoy. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. €€€. PTALBW

Italian
Bocconcino C-1, Strastnoy bul. 7, bldg. 1, MTverskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 699 73 59, www.bocconcino.ru. Not the place to eat with your hands, although the pizza tastes so good, you may really want to - the dough is magic: thin crispy and light. This classy pizzeria’s decor screams Moscow, e.g. the bone and cream coloured faux Tuscan interior, but the cuisine is pure Italy.The toppings are fresh and full of taste and flavour. Bocconcino never fails to please Italian cuisine fans and hence has a strong following of faithful customers. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PTALSW

Bontempi restaurant C-3, Red October Chocolate Factory, Bersenevskaya nab. 12, bldg. 1, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 669 13 87, www.bontempirest.ru. A great looking conversion of one of the smaller buildings of this former factory, Bontempi is simple with a stylish twist that is definitive for this happening area of the city and has many fans - including us. Aiming for a personal touch the staff make almost as much effort to explain the menu as the chef does to execute it, while the small tables are tucked in just close enough to give the place a satisfyingly communal feel. The pasta and bread is handmade, daily specials offer the best of the season’s ingredients and classic dishes like the tiramisu and tortellini hold their fabulous own against new creations such as anchovy and pesto biscotti. Q Open 12.00-24.00 €€. PTAVBSW Il Patio C-2, Ul. Volkhonka 13a, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 499 766 00 20, www.ilpatio.ru. This is one of the more atmospheric locations of the Il Patio chain, probably because of its stunning location near the Church of the Saviour. Don’t worry the good value pizza and pasta on offer here is just the same as in the other outlets in this popular pizza chain. Have 50 more locations. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTALEBSW

Moscow In Your Pocket

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RestauRants
North African/Middle Eastern
bldg. 1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 88 78, www. bardak-cafe.ru. A real Turkish cafe run by real Turkish people, has to be a good sign for the menu and vibe. The staff are astoundingly friendly and quick and make a big effort with their English and surprisingly enough the Arabic music is about as kitsch as it gets here. The menu excels in a wide choice of koftes (meatballs) and various types of pastries stuffed with spinach, Turkish cheese, mince meat and the like. They of course have real Turkish coffee and make sure you save your appetite for dessert, you won’t be disappointed. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12.00 - 24.00. €. PAW

RestauRants
Steak Houses
Beeftro C-1, Ul. Tsvetnoy bulvar 26, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 545 43 53, www.beeftro.ru. Aiming to bridge the gap between laidback bistro dining and steakhouse meaty goodness, Beeftro has nudged its way in with a relaxed restaurant that also serves top steaks. The ‘1930s retro’ look is bright, clean and oh-so stylish and steers well-clear of the usual macho steakhouse clichés. The staff, who are trussed up in trilbys and braces, are another plus point - friendly, efficient and well-versed in the intricacies of the menu. The beef is corn-fed organic US black Angus and is very well-prepared and mouthwateringly good and goes particularly well in their excellent burger and the selection of sauces are all winners. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW Chicago Prime Steakhouse C-1, Strastnoy bul. 8a, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 988 17 17, www.chicagoprime.ru. Everyone may tell you it’s the best, and we are going to too, after a visit to Chicago Prime you will be left with no doubt that you have just eaten a very memorable piece of meat. The rest of the things on the menu like the large salads, lobster consumme and blue fin tuna steak are just as accomplished and the portions are huge. If you can’t afford to keep up your steak habit, you can also order cheaper yet similarly delectable steak sandwiches and burgers at the bar. A discreet yet friendly atmosphere complete the winning combination. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. €€€€. PTALSBW Bardak - Cafe po Turetsky D-2, Ul. Maroseika 6/8,

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Vegetarian
Avocado D-2, Chistoprudny bul. 12, bldg. 2, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 621 77 19. Vegetarian cafes are always empty, right? Not this one. Come meal time it can be hard to get a table here. Cheery fruit and vegetable pictures on the wall suffice for décor. There is an extensive range of teas on the menu, and the food is delicious.Tofu, spinach and mushrooms feature prominently. The evening live music includes a rather hip harp player, but there is also guitar for those looking for something more conventional.Try not to get too annoyed with the staff who have a tendency to be a bit dippy. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. €. PTAEGBSW Jagannath C-2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 11, MKuznetsky
Most, tel. (+7) 495 628 35 80, www.jagannath.ru. Delightful vegetarian cafe with a touch of hippiness. Depending on the time you can choose to take a dish from the self-service counter in the cafe or opt to go through to the restaurant. Either promises a relaxing repast. You’ll have the choice of many vegetables cooked all different ways under the sun, and there are tasty soups, salads and even soy shashlik (shish kebabs). There’s also a very well-stocked vegetarian shop selling all the unusual favourites such as mate tea and rye flour pasta. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. €. PAVEGBSW

Cafe Sindbad B-2, Nikitsky bul.14, MArbatskaya, tel.

Italianets C-1, Ul. Samotechnaya 13, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 688 64 01, www.italian.ru. It’s a fair old walk from the metro and there’s little in the way of tourist sights, but the journey is worth it if you are hoping to stumble upon some really top quality authentic Italian cuisine. The head chef and owner Giuseppe has brought with him plenty of expertise from his native Puglia - the fish is particularly good - and believes in mixing up classic Italian ingredients in new ways that actually make sense (no silly foams and Asian effects here). His dishes are perfectly balanced and in authentic style, generously portioned. Family friendly but also with more intimate spaces for romantic diners it’s no wonder they are always busy. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTABW Mestiere Hotel Sputnik, Leninsky pr. 38, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 930 22 88, www.mestiere.ru. Classic Italian food is served in typical style at Mestiere over in the Sputnik hotel. The terracotta walls, odd bit of greenery and pictures of old Italy are all in their place and of course, the soundtrack has a bit of Eros Ramazotti in it too.The pasta dishes are a good option here and generally pass the al dente test, while the In Your Pocket team also likes the Italian sweets on offer. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. AVW
kovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 234 34 87, www.montalto.ru. The brains behind this pizza restaurant stick to the golden rules of cooking - do few things but do them very well. Although there are actually also one or two meat dishes and salads on the menu, Montalto is all about the fantastic artisan pizzas. The dough is fresh and yeasty and much thicker than the usual crisp thin Roman style pizzas usually found in Moscow and you can watch it being flung in the air by the chefs in one end of the room. The toppings are simple combinations given clever twists, such as Parma ham with some gruyere in the cheese mix or homemade spicy sausage with helpings of caramelized onions. The atmosphere is akin to a trendy New York loft, all clean lines, dark woods, exposed brick and slick lighting. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTASW

(+7) 495 691 71 15. Authentic through and through, this tiny unassuming Lebanese cafe is consistently filled with happy guests smoking water pipes and enjoying Lebanese tea with pomegranates and pine nuts or the excellent Arabic coffee. Tuck yourself in under one of the awnings covered with fake grape vines and dig into some great meze before following it up with some delicious spicy kofte or falafel. The waitresses are some of the friendliest you will find in Moscow and the Arabic music and aromatic smells from the kitchen only further add to the cosy atmosphere. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €.

Quick and cheap
Cool Kulinariya B-2, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 24/1, bldg. 6, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 64 45, www.coolkulinariya.ru. A kind of posh canteen with comfy sofa-like chairs, helpful staff and a wide choice of low priced self-service food. The offerings tend to be Russian cuisine centric, with lots of mayonaise slathered salads and meaty soups although you will also find Chinese cuisine and Caucasian dishes such as dolma (stuffed vine leaves) and lobio (spiced bean stew). Everything is also available to take away. Make sure to sample some pastries or pancakes from the nice bakery section. Q Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. €. PTAGSW Muu Muu B-2, Ul. Arbat 45/24, MSmolenskaya, tel.
(+7) 499 241 13 64, www.cafemumu.ru. A popular chain of cheerful and cheap cow themed self-service eateries. Dotted around the city it’s a good place to “graze” away an hour or two. The one on Old Arbat street has a fake life size cow outside, presenting you with yet another photo opportunity for everyone back home to laugh at. The focus is on Russian food and yes it is stodgy. Q Open 09:00 - 23:00. €. PTJAGBSW

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Montalto B-1, Ul.Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya 20, MMaya-

Pizza Express C-1/2, Ul. Tverskaya 17, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 70 03, www.pizzaexpress.ru.com. You may be familiar with the concept of this international pizza/ pasta chain, if not it goes something like this. Take one historic building, put in some huge windows so the light floods in, whitewash the walls and fill the place with simple furniture and a few nice palms. Finally serve low price but high quality pizza and pasta dishes in plump portions and hey presto! - you have created a very successful restaurant. The pizzas are great, the staff are on the ball and unsurprisingly it is busy all hours. Q Open 24hrs. €. PANSW Moscow In Your Pocket

Restoranny Dom Tsentralny B-2, Kudrinskaya pl. 1 (Kudrinksaya skyscraper), MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 499 255 47 44, www.restauranthouse.ru. Easily Moscow’s grandest self-service canteen and worth visiting just to look at it. Situated in the ground floor of one of the Stalin ‘Seven Sisters’ skyscrapers this huge canteen has retained all of the building’s original period detailing, including grand marble pillars, ceilings that reach to the sky and massive chandeliers and stained glass panels. Popular due to its reliability and atmosphere, the place fills up but still has space for hundreds. The food is standard as good as it looks fare - you are getting what you pay for, and by the time you get to the counter it may be a little cold. Q Open 10:00 - 23:00. €. PTASW

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Nightlife
Moscow never sleeps. And it has everything going under those burning neon signs. Whether you are after an elite nightclub with a pyrotechnic show and a face control policy to shake fear into the hearts of grown adults, a dingy dive or a comfortable English style pub where you can hole up til the wee hours of the morning, you’ll not be disappointed. Admission prices are indicated where applicable and note that in many places a ‘face control’ (dress code) policy applies.

Nightlife
Duma C-2, Ul. Mokhovaya 11, bldg. 3v (entrance from Nikitsky per. 2), MOkhotny ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 11 19, www.clubduma.ru. This place is not only literally underground it’s also through a couple of courtyards and hidden down an alley. Down in this large round cellar they play quality funk music to a cool youngish crowd who know their stuff. Some decent live bands also often drop in to crank up the tempo. The interior oozes groovy 1970’s Soviet chic - old sewing machines, samovars and radios abound whilst classic art films and Soviet retro clips are projected on to the walls. In the summer the cellar bar empties as the large courtyard terrace and its ping pong table becomes the place to be. QOpen 09:00 - 06:00, Sun 11:00 - 06:00. Admission to concerts 200-600Rbl. PAEBSW Main Bar B-1, Ul. Tverskaya 22b, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 51 53, www.mainbar.ru. This cocktail bar from the brains behind other popular local spots All Time Bar and Help Bar, knows what it is good at and focuses on getting that right. As well as the usual classics, the cocktail list is also filled out with new local summery favourites such as Aperol spritz and Pimms, both given their own special Russian twist, as well as numerous exclusive creations such as the Red Earl (vodka, ginger, rasberries and limoncello). A little fresh out of the stalls to have gained a big following yet, the owners clearly anticipate crowds arriving and Main bar boasts two long bar areas and various rooms with sofas for lounging with friends as well as a nice courtyard summer terrace. Q Open 24hrs. PABW Mayak B-2, Ul. Bolshaya Nikitskaya 19, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 691 74 49, www.clubmayak.ru. Don’t come to Mayak looking to meet new people or find a special someone for the night. Mayak is mainly a sit-down old Viennese cafe-bar style gathering place for friends and colleagues. Located on top of the Mayakovsky Theater, no wonder it is known for attracting the Moscow intelligentsia. Tables are filled almost every night of the week, but luckily the service is not affected by the large clientele volume. Sometimes professional musicians passing through for a drink on a weekend tinkle the ivories of the ancient piano, but otherwise there’s no background music only lively chatter. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PJAS naya, tel. (+7) 495 692 03 09. Moloko is a fancy looking bar/restaurant that presents the ideal venue for a quiet drink or business lunch meeting. The music is unobtrusive and tables are situated far enough away from each other to give diners and drinkers some privacy. The kitchen has yet to prove itself, but the drinks menu offers plenty for the cocktails crowd as well as whiskey swillers. The large windows looking onto the street which are fully opened in summer offer a nice candid view of the local fashionistas. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PAW

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Bars and Cafe Bars
Bar 1920 C-2, Ul. Nikolskaya 10/2, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 621 13 68, www.bar1920.ru. A speakeasy themed bar bursting with old Al Capone gangster Americana. The walls are plastered with pictures of the notorious bootleggers of the prohibition period while the staff are trussed up in braces and trilby hats. The music rests in the modern era with the latest pop dance hits from Western stars mixed in with a few sporadic classics from yester year. Whisky is the obvious drink choice here and won’t set you back much, while penny pinchers should watch out for the special offers on ‘contraband’ liqors. QOpen 24hrs. PAXW Barry Bar C-2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 276 07 36, www.barrybar.ru. Barry Bar looks unusually stylish - the floor is covered in striking colourful ceramic tiling, which is complimented by unusually shaped lamps, bare-brick walls and disco balls over by the DJ area. The clientele tend to be well-dressed and groomed and more than a little fashionable as well. During the week it’s a quiet place to hang out with a cocktail listening to some chilled out house and at weekends the music and buzz is just about funky enough to justify that pretty dance floor which sees some action past midnight. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. PAW Bar Strelka C-3, Red October Chocolate Factory,
Bersenevskaya nab.14, bldg.5, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 771 74 16, www.barstrelka.com. The main headquarters of Moscow’s hipster parade, this bar attached to the Strelka Design Institute has become a bit more inclusive of regular folk in jeans and suits since it first opened but is still notorious for the weekend entrance lineup where they suss out how hip your outfit is before letting you in. The music is usually a decent house/lounge/electro mix from popular DJs and the design is very aesthetically pleasing as well as comfortable. The small dance floor fills or completely empties depending on the weekend DJs and you may be lucky enough to be treated to a spontaneous unannounced concert. In the summer the roof terrace (which functions as more of a bar/ restaurant) with an incredible view is the place to see and be seen at any hour of the day or night. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PALBW

Moloko C-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 7/5, bldg. 2, MTeatral-

tel. (+7) 499 241 43 42, www.hardrockcafe.ru. This is the mac-daddy of American style food and fun. Three levels of rock memorabilia, a bar downstairs and a central dancefloor on the second floor with a DJ booth above. Food here is a bit disappointing (this is guacamole?) and their long island iced tea was closer to actual tea than to any long island tea we remember drinking. They play rock music, and after 9pm on weekends, there’s a cover charge. The place is pretty popular so get in early and eat before you go. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs. Admission on weekends after 21:00 500Rbl. PTAEBS

Hard Rock Cafe В-2, Ul. Arbat 44/1, MSmolenskaya,

MyBar C-2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 3, bldg. 2, MTeat-

Lucky Noodles
One part cheap Chinese noodle takeaway and one part secret underground bar, Lucky Noodles is a concept borrowed straight from New York’s Chinatown. The small upstairs premises looks exactly like what it is - a cheap noodle takeaway spot. They’ve even got the menu written up on a piece of cardboard to fool you into thinking it’s been here forever. Look to the right of the counter however and you will see a black curtain disguising the entrance to the secret flashy cocktail bar Mendeleev in the basement. Don’t be surprised if on your way down a suited security guy shoos you away (it is supposed to be ‘secret’ after all) and you end up having to sate yourself with a Tsingdao from the takeaway fridge instead. Ul. Petrovka 20/1 M Teatralnaya, tel. (+7) 916 095 04 69. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 12:00 03:00.

Bar Volna E-2, ArtPlay Design Centre, Nizhny Syromyatnicheskaya ul. 10, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 903 562 61 30, www.artplay.ru. The trendy former factory art centre Artplay just stepped up its cool factor again with the addition of this chilled out little roof terrace bar. With trees popping up out of the deck, simple furniture and all wood surroundings it really feels very much like being up in a tree house and chilled reggae and bossa nova music further adds to the very anti-urban vibe. Drinks are lowpriced (there’s an art school nearby) and the clientele are remarkably unpretentious. Volna also occasionally screen sports and films on a huge screen stretched over a neighbouring building. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. PW Moscow In Your Pocket

Kalina Bar B-2, Novinsky bul. 8, Lotte Plaza (21st floor), MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 55 19, www. kalinabar.ru. Cocktail bar and restaurant located 21 floors up on top of the swish Lotte Plaza Shopping Centre, Kalina Bar is a jet set choice. The birds eye view over the city is stunning, especially as the sun sets and the city lights flicker. The expert cocktails and fine wine selection all help the view go down even better and once the night sets in so does the house music as the beautiful crowd turn up for their aperitifs. If you want one of the prime window seats book in advance, especially at the weekend. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PTAULBSW Ketama Bar C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 5/6, bldg. 5,
MTeatralnaya, tel. +7 495 692 92 68, ketamaradio.ru. A pumping summer place on a popular walking street that is just too easy to find yourself perked up at. DJs rock out on the open terrace where it is tall bar stools or standing room only, while guests chill out over the cushions that cover the huge balcony on top. The cocktail menu runs the usual Moscow standards and the patrons are usually starting out the night here or having a passing drink on the way to a club. In colder months the cocktails carry on inside. Q Open 24hrs. PABW

ralnaya, tel. (+7) 916 583 52 79. This is not another ‘eltiny’ hangout with generic Moscow cocktails and pounding music. My Bar’s philosophy is to create a welcoming venue for friendly people who are looking for a relaxed hangout and down-to-earth staff. MyBar is well and truly a dive bar; especially popular with expats and local office workers looking for a post-work drink and some fun, it offers a refreshingly laid-back alternative to Moscow’s glamour dominated nightlife scene. The music selection varies vastly, but is usually a good mix of golden oldies, with some great pop and rock classics to dance to at the weekend. Thursdays have also now become live music night with free concerts from rock and blues bands. The happy hours, charismatic owner, friendly staff and relaxed opening hours have made it a hit. Be prepared to queue a little to get in later on at the weekend as the dancefloor fills up and the crowd gets lively. Q Open 18:00 until last guest. PAW

Lucky Noodles

Noor Bar B-1, Ul. Tverskaya 23/12, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 903 136 76 86, www.noorbar.com. Noor on the face of it appears to be just your average cafe - bright yellow walls and tiled floors give a vague Spanish feeling, while apparently the name is Arabic for light. In fact of an evening this classy bar is the second home of much of Moscow’s wealthier art crowd. Don’t be surprised to see hipsters in fluorescent jackets hanging out with suited guys who’ve just stepped out of a Mercedes -the full strata of the city’s successful set are resident here. A big draw for many are the drinks and the lack of loud club music. Noor specialises in malt whiskies and the barmen who make their imaginative cocktails to order are well-loved by their patrons. Q Open 15:00-03:00, Thu-Sun 12:00-06:00. PASW August - September 2012

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Nightlife
Bars in Former Factories
Moscow’s trendy converted factories are a great place to find interesting and unusual outdoor dining – and especially drinking and partying – options during the summer.

Nightlife
Simple Pub B-2, Smolenskaya pl. 6/1, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 241 30 40, www.simplepub.ru. Sporting a more ‘gastropub’ look than you usually find in Moscow, Simple Pub features boxy leather sofas, mirrored pillars, bare-brick walls and the odd TV showing fashion channels in amongst the sports. Design elements aside it is very similar to the rest of the Moscow pub scene, with pricey beers and decidedly average food. This would be a perfectly acceptable place to drink if it weren’t for the warm beers which consistently appear on the table. Despite asking for cold ones, the undrinkably warm beer still appears and staff seem to be oblivious to the basic pub rule that beer should be served cold. Q Open 12:00 until last guest. PAW The Hudson Bar B-1, Ul. Butyrsky val 10, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 212 04 54, www.hudsonbar.ru. This smart American bar brings some much needed attention to the after work drinks crowd of the big money White Square business centre. The expat owner has thankfully held back from hiking up the prices and trying to instill some elitism and instead has created a bar that’s great for those arriving alone to perch at the long bar or with a gang to colonise one of the booths - regardless of their budget and dress code. This ‘democratic’ approach spurs great results. The crowd is mixed and friendly and the hostess is there to help not hinder. A myriad of sports channels (including US ones) and happy hour deals are yet more bonuses, although unfortunately for inexplicable reasons the sports channels sadly don’t always work. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00. PAW
MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 792 51 88, www.katieosheas.ru. The brains behind Moscow’s legendary Irish bar Silvers have put their heart and soul into this wonderfully bright, spacious and airy Irish pub. As well as having possibly the best (and cheapest) Guinness in Moscow, there’s also a great pub food menu (including curry). Each night of the week attracts an open and lively crowd and sports fans will be delighted with the amount of screens and variety of different sports covered. It’s also a great place for Sunday lunch and look out for posters advertising their (English language) pub quizzes. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. PAIEBSW

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Katie O’ Shea’s D-1, Grokholsky per. 26, bldg. 5,

Red October Chocolate Factory

The hip Red October Chocolate Factory area has numerous outdoor cafes and bars, many of which are located on the former factory’s roofs. This whole area is one of the most popular nightlife spots on summer weekends, although it’s worth bearing in mind that the area is not cheap and dress code scrutiny can be strict. Probably the most famous roof bar of the area is Bar Strelka which has a fantastic view over the river, great snacks and a relaxed vibe. Dome Bar and the loud Zarya Bar are located in the yard next door and both have ample outdoor seating. Heading further into the factory you will find the quiet Produkty bar before you hit nightlife central at fashionable rooftop clubs Rolling Stone Bar, Reka and Gipsy. Red October Chocolate Factory C-3 MKropotkinskaya Red October does not have the monopoly on cool factory bars. Artplay, which is located in a former tea factory, boasts a huge elongated roof terrace bar with ping pong tables and sun loungers whose great view over the surrounding area is very much ‘industrial chic’. There’s also a second small treehouse style roof bar called Volna which is nice for early evening drinks. The nearby Winzavod (a former wine factory now converted into numerous art galleries) also has a good open-air bar/restaurant which also sometimes shows films on a giant projector screen and makes a nice place for a post-exhibit drink. ArtPlay na Yauze E-2 Ul. Nizhnaya Syromyatnicheskaya 5/7, MChkalovskaya, www.artplay.ru Winzavod E-2 4-y Syromyatnichesky per.1, bldg.6, MChkalovskaya, www.winzavod.ru

Scotland Yard Pub C-1, Ul. Petrovka 34, MChekhovs-

ArtPlay and Winzavod

kaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 02 10, www.scotlandyardpub.ru. This is as authentic as almost any other ‘British’ pub in Russia (in other words not very), but that’s not to say Scotland Yard isn’t a nice place to while away an hour or two with a good ale. Although the drinks are noticeably pricey, there’s a good selection on offer for beer aficionados and if you are here to watch sport you’ve plenty of screens to occupy your attention. The best thing about Scotland Yard is its abundance of space, set over three floors of a quaint townhouse, there’s more than enough room and the large covered roof terrace is an especially nice spot for a warm weather pint. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Tue - Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PABW MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 960 14 02, www.realpub. ru. Finally a proper pub for real ale lovers - the selection on offer, which includes dozens of local micro-brews, is bafflingly huge and also gourmet priced. Cider fans will be pleased with the unusually large choice and even happier to see that cider features during the early evening happy hours. Much lighter and less smokey than most Russian pubs, the St Peter’s still can get a bit too loud, especially when the live cover bands turn up, although during sports matches the atmosphere is relatively civilised. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAW

St.Peters and St.Anton Pub C-2, Nikitinsky per. 2,

British and Irish Pubs
Bobby Dazzler Pub С-1, Kostyansky per. 7/13, MTurgenevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 608 03 83, www.bobbydazzler.ru. Authentic red interior (they are fanatical Manchester United supporters), background pub music that stays in the background and plenty of sports - there’s lots to like at the Bobby Dazzler. If you’re hungry go for the homemade sausages - which are all traditional meaty monsters made with Guinness or red ale. This pub is famous for its atmosphere during the big sporting events and when there’s a big football match on it’s very difficult to get a seat. The high number of TVs means you will always be in someone’s way if you are standing so book ahead. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 06:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. Live music on Saturdays. PAE Harat’s Irish Pub B-2, Ul. Arbat 23, MArbatskaya, tel.
(+7) 965 377 01 36, www.harats.ru. This is not the Irish pub for watching sport in. The TVs are constantly showing rock concerts on DVD, and as it turns out, judging by Harat’s popularity there are a lot of people who like to go to rock music pubs which don’t show sports. With its tattooed bartenders, rock music soundtrack and dark and moody décor, there’s a grungy edge to Harat’s which makes a welcome change from the usual style of Irish pub to be found in Moscow. There is also a second Harat’s pub hidden in the end of the courtyard at Strastnoy bulvar 4, bldg. 5 (metro Pushkinskaya) which often has live music. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00. PABW

Alternative and live music
B2 Club B-1, Ul. Bolshaya Sadovaya 8/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 99 18, www.b2club.ru. One of Moscow’s biggest live music clubs, B2 offers live jazz, latino, rock and ska music and more. With five floors holding seven bars, a courtyard and a capacity of 2000 people it’s quite possible that you will hear every kind of music imaginable in just one night - if you can manage to figure your way around the labyrinthine interior that is. Students and older locals alike flock to the place to hear some of Russia’s best and newest bands play at low prices. As well as the jazz club, disco club, latino music, lounge, rock concerts and football screenings, there’s karaoke, billiards, sushi, a cinema and a summer courtyard - a veritable one stop shop for a busy night out. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. Admission Thu 400Rbl after 20:00, Fri, Sat 400Rbl (women), 600Rbl (men) after 20:00. Admission to concerts 300-20,000Rbl. PAEBSW
MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 56 11, msk.jao-da.ru. This underground labyrinth of three bar spaces is popular with the alternative set. Affordable prices, live bands on weekends and casual atmosphere bordering on grunge are what some consider added bonuses. That the tables have been kicked around a bit only shows the deep love and esteem the regulars have. Food is served promptly, decent sized portions with a smattering of Russian cuisine influences. QOpen 10:00 - 08:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 08:00. Admission to concerts 250-500Rbl. PAESBW

Flacon

The former bottle factory Flacon is certainly a rather out of the way spot to go for a drink but the small open-air swimming pool, volleyball beach and attached shack bar in the back make it a nice urban escape, especially on Tuesday’s when a live lindy hop band brings out the local swing dancers. An early evening drink out here can be the perfect end to a day spent shopping in the former factory’s many quirky design boutiques. Keep an eye on their website for weekend parties and free concerts. Flacon Design Factory, Bol. Novodmitrovskaya ul. 36, MDmitrovskaya, www.flacon.su

MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 25 94, www. kriziszhanra.ru. Popular with young yuppies who haven’t forgotten their student days just yet, this place is a little bohemian paradise. Tucked away on the middle strip on Pokrovsky bulvar, its almost underground. It’s so dark and the music is so loud, you can not understand anything your friends say let alone the waitress. The three split levels create a seventies open plan warehouse feel to which the classics soundtrack goes well with. Great for before and after drinks, picking up new friends and if you want to catch an energetic free concert in the middle of the night. QOpen 11:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00. Live music Fri, Sat. PJENS

Krisis Zhanra D-2, Ul. Pokrovka 16/16, bldg.1,

Watching Sports Outdoors
Moscow certainly has no shortage of sports bars, but what there are precious few of during the summer months are bars where you can watch sports outside. Other than the numerous large bookmakers along ulitsa Novy Arbat, some of which have small street side open-air areas, if you are desperate to sit outside and enjoy the next Russian football season, you may also like to try these places: Bavarius B-1, Ul. Sadovaya-Triumfalnaya 2/30, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 42 11, www. bavarius.ru.Q €€. PAB Scotland Yard Pub C-1, Ul. Petrovka 34, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 02 10, www.scotlandyardpub.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Tue - Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PABW Stirlitz B-1, Ul. 2-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 2, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 617 61 03, stirlitz.su. Q Open 24hrs. PTAILVEGBSW

John Donne Pub B-2, Nikitsky bul.12, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 627 69 07, www.john-donne.ru. Exactly how it happened nobody knows, but John Donne is now one of the most popular expat pubs in Moscow - you’ll hear more English spoken here than Russian. On match days it can be almost impossible to even get in the door, although the fact that seating is universally on high bar stools nobody will mind you standing. What’s more the huge mixed crowd only tends to add to the atmosphere (and clouds of smoke). Also at Verkhnaya Radishevskaya 15 (metro Taganskaya). QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. PALBSW Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com

Kitaisky Lyotchik D-2, Lubyansky proezd 25, bldg.1,

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Nightlife
Masterskaya С-2, Teatralny proezd 3, bldg. 3, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 625 68 36, www.mstrsk.ru. What is there not to love about this folksy ex-banya with the air of an underground Viennese coffee house mashed together with a bohemian artist’s studio. Live concerts and dancing in the evenings and during the day artist’s sit and ponder the eccentric bric-a-brac cluttering the tiled room. For something quieter join the intellectuals discussing away in the back room or sample the excellent Thai food downstairs.To find it go down the alley between ul. Neglinaya and ul. Rozhdestvenka and head up to the first floor. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. Admission to concerts 0-1,000Rbl. PTENSW Zavtra C-1, Ul. Sretenka 26/1, MSukharevskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 607 07 13, zavtraclub.ru. The open all hours student bar brand Pirogi, which started in Kitay Gorod has come of age in this larger and more grown-up venue which has been rebranded as Zavtra. Thankfully enough the late night impromptu dancing, intellectual clientele, house beer served in huge teapots and low prices remain the same, although unfortunately it has also retained its reputation for slow service. The busier it is the more energetic the crowd feels - and hence the more difficult it becomes to leave. Week nights see tables filled with punters discussing the day’s events, while on the weekends the DJs have a tendency to start spinning those golden oldie favourites that encourage people to get up on the bar to dance. Q Open 24hrs. PAEW

Gogol C-1, Stoleshnikov per.11, bldg.1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 514 09 44, www.gogolclubs.ru. Something is surely going to happen here, any minute now in any one of the three connecting spaces - its got that backstage energy. From the stage under the circus tent out the front, the cosy Parisian style restaurant and the beer kiosk that wouldn’t be out of place at an outdoor festival of rock, Gogol is a great place for any amount of time, be it long or short, day or night. Bouncers keep everything sane. The music is bohemian stuff you probably won’t remember the next day but you’ll enjoy it while you’re here. Once the summer kicks in Gogol’s beer garden is one of Moscow’s most popular. Q Open 12:00 - 05:00. Admission to concerts 300-1,000Rbl. PAEBSW Reka C-3, Bersenevskaya nab. 6, bldg. 2, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 669 99 69, rekaclub.ru. With some of the area’s best views of the river from its extensive balconies and roof terraces, Reka is becoming one of the Red October Factory’s most popular clubs. Reka hosts concerts or special DJ sets at the weekend, meaning usually you have to pay to enter and enjoy the carefully selected mix of hip international groups. The spacious club offers areas for lounging and eating, as well as dancing and flirting and after the concerts are finished, top DJs take to the decks to keep the party going. During the week, this is a nice and easy place to drop by for a quiet drink and a meal, especially if you can get out onto the terrace. At weekends keep in mind there is usually fairly strict scrutiny on the door and long lines to pass. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PAW
bldg.1, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 504 09 32, www.myspace.com/rollingstonetattoo. Go up the stairs and climb through the hole in the wall to find yourself in one Moscow’s only ‘fashion’ rock clubs, which gleams with roadhouse americana. In a very un-rocker style there’s a slightly dressed up face control policy, but despite it all, if you pass the fashion scrutiny it’s still possible to party long and hard here way into the morning in rock and roll style.Try not to get too wasted else you may make an unwise decision in the tattoo parlour out the back. In summer the whole club pours out onto the colourful roof terrace which becomes a sunrise view dance floor. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 07:00. AEBW

Clubs
Gipsy C-3, Bolotnaya nab. 3/4, bldg. 2, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 669 86 93, www.facebook.com/ ilovegipsy. Currently considered by Moscow’s party parade to be one of the most fun clubs in town, Gipsy makes for a raucous and memorable late night of dancing, providing you can pass the door. Everything about Gipsy is eclectic, from the strange porno cartoon graffiti on the walls and Saturday Night Fever style dancefloor to the music which is one minute techno, and the next Avril Lavigne - and judging from the number of people dancing on the bar, this is what Muscovites love. The dance floor with its 400 disco balls is blinding, while the rest of the club is extremely dark, but fear not only good-looking folks are allowed in. In the summer their huge beach themed roof terrace is the place to be. Q Open 05:30 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 14:00-06:00. Face control. PW

Rolling Stone Bar & Tattoo C-3, Bolotnaya nab.3,

Solyanka D-2, Ul. Solyanka 11/6, bldg. 1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 221 75 57, www.s-11.ru. Not quite sure what it is really, Solyanka is part club, part restaurant, part someone else’s lounge room when that someone else owns a mansion. Suitably cool and unaffected, a lot of Russians sit around chilling out and ignoring each other while lounging on or dancing over the mismatched furniture. Just arrive early enough so you don’t have to wait in line. Don’t forget to carefully put together your hipster uniform to ensure you pass the cooler-than-thou dress code control - even if you were eating here earlier in the day, they will still force you through the ordeal later on. Solyanka also runs regular gay nights, check their website or facebook page for details. Q Open 10:00 - 06:00. Admission free. Fri, Sat 500 after 23:00. Face control. PASBW

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SightSeeing
Red Square
Lenin Mausoleum C-2, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad,
tel. (+7) 495 623 55 27, www.lenin.ru. On display in various incarnations of his mausoleum since 1924, this is where the waxy, bald and embalmed body of the founder of the Communist Party is. Visiting here is a no-nonsense event with guards posted at each corner to prod you forward should you halt at any stage during the viewing. Join the super-long queue at the entrance to Red Square nearest to the Alexandrovsky Gardens. No bags. No cameras. They’ll search your pockets to make sure you don’t sneak anything. Leave bags in the storage lockers before going through the metal detectors, he may be dead but you can’t mess with him. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Fri, Sun. Entrance is free.

SightSeeing
Must See Moscow

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The Kremlin
The Kremlin C-2, Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49, www.kreml.ru. The street plan of central Moscow forms an impressively ordered pattern of concentric circles, clearly marking the city’s development outwards over the centuries. In the middle of this great Catherine wheel is the Kremlin, the fortified hill which formed the heart of the ancient city, and which to this day houses the political HQ of the planet’s largest nation. Within the worldfamous red walls nestles a collection of buildings of various architectural styles, ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical, through Romanov imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet modernism. While much is out of bounds to tourists, being part of the Government and Presidential estate, there are easily enough treasures open to the public to make the citadel an essential conquest.
Unlike Napoleon, who stayed here after his forces took Moscow in 1812, you will need a ticket to enter. There are a number of ticket booths, the most important being located in Alexandrovsky Sad (on the west side of the Kremlin), which in itself is a great people watching place. Having bought your tickets, leave any large bags in the cloakroom located near the ticket office, under the gate. A ‘Kremlin Territory’ ticket gets you into the site itself, along with all of the cathedrals and the more ancient buildings. To visit the Kremlin Armoury (where all the sparkly diamonds, jewels and so on are stored) you must buy a separate - and considerably more expensive - ticket, which will have an entrance time on it. This ticket can only be purchased before you enter the Kremlin. Inside the Kremlin Cathedral of the Archangel Michael. A relative youngster on the Kremlin church scene, this cathedral was erected in 1505 and holds the tombs of Russian rulers from Ivan I to Tsar Ivan V. It also has more of an Italian renaissance feel to it with its Corinthian gables and turrets and white stonework. Annunciation Cathedral. This imposing cathedral, where Russia’s Tsars were christened and married, was built by Pskov architects in 1482. The frescoes inside are considered to be some of the most valuable in Moscow given that prominent artists of the time including Andrey Rublyev (also buried here), Theophanes the Greek and Prokhor of Gorodetz all worked on them.

Church of the Deposition of the Robes. Taking its name from an ancient festival where the Virgin’s robes are transferred from Palestine to Constantinople (now Istanbul), this is a more modest cathedral nestled in a corner. Built in 1484- 1485 by artists from Pskov, this church notably has stained glass windows. Along with some fine icons, inside you can also find wooden sculptures from the 15th century. Cathedral of the Assumption. The grandfather of all the Kremlin churches, the Assumption Cathedral is the oldest and the biggest. Built in 1475 by Italian architect Aristotle Fiorovanti, this is where Ivan the Terrible was crowned Emperor in 1547 before becoming a stable for Napoleon’s horses in 1812. Their soldiers made off with the chandeliers now hanging overhead, some weighing over 5 tonnes. The cossacks brought them back after they caught up with the light-fingered Frenchmen. In 1918 the last Easter service was held here. Services resumed in 1990. The Patriarch’s Palace. Once the home of the Moscow Patriarch, this grand medieval building is now a museum where ecclesiastical treasures of the Orthodox church are on display as well as various precious tableware, furniture, jewellery and clothing used in the court of the medieval Tsars. The building also often houses temporary exhibitions. The Ivan the Great Bell Tower. The impressive 60 metre high tower was built between 1505 and 1508. The adjoining belfry was built 15 years later and contains some 20 bells. The biggest bell (the world’s largest no less) however was too big to remain in its place and sits to the rear of the tower with a huge crack in it. In recent years the the belfry has become home to a new high-tech exhibition which illustrates the history of the Kremlin’s changing architectural styles. It is also now possible to climb up the tower (that’s 137 steps to be exact) to admire the view over central Moscow and get a close up look at the bells. You must by a separate ticket for the Ivan’s Bell Tower excursion at the excursion office before you enter the Kremlin and you can only go up the tower at the time indicated on your ticket.

St. Basil’s Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor) C-2, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www.saintbasil.ru. Standing magnificent at the head of Red Square is St. Basil’s Cathedral. Russia’s most recognisable building was built in 1561 to celebrate Ivan the Terrible’s crucial defeat of the Khan of Kazan, a victory which secured Moscow’s position as the region’s dominant city. While the view from outside is spectacular and rightly famed, it is certainly also worth a visit inside. Visitors used to the vast open spaces of Western European cathedrals will be shocked to find a stone warren of small, intimate chapels, each decorated with countless icons and engravings and soaring in one direction only: upwards, to the height of the onion domes above. Russia’s history is all about a country being simultaneously tugged towards the west and the east. A visit inside St Basil’s gives an invaluable lesson on the importance and undoubted attractions of the latter. Q Open 11:00 - 17:00. Admission 50-250Rbl.
Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www.shm.ru. Right on Red Square, this museum consists of two floors offering an extensive foray into Russian history from the ice ages of the mammoths right up to the 19th century. The first floor which runs up to the beginning of Peter the Great, and the 17th century holds many relics and artifacts of historical interest. Not just the exhibits are of interest, each individual hall complements its in-house exhibition, such as the Novgorod and Vladimir Halls with their vivid reconstructions. Upstairs while it lacks any English explanation, has an abundance of cool historical tit bits. Like the boots big enough to hide a small child which are worn to get through a swamp and were worn in Peter the Great’s. The elegant side of Russian life is given slightly more space than the peasantry but their role in history garners them several rooms toward the end demonstrating Russian customs and revolutionary activists such as the Decembrists. There are English leaflets that you can request from the counter as you enter that cover the first floor, but not unfortunately the second. There is a 2hr audio guide (one hour for each floor) at a cost of 300Rbl. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission 60-440Rbl. Guided tours for up to 15 people by prior arrangement. PAU

The obvious starting point of any sightseeing trip to Moscow is Red Square, the heart of the city with the iconic domes of the magnificent St. Basil’s Cathedral at its helm. Browse the shops and gourmet supermarket of the historic GUM department store, queue up early to catch a glimpse of mummified Lenin and explore the long and turbulent history of Russians in the State Historical Museum. After watching the guards at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier pass through the imposing Kremlin walls in the Alexandrovsky gardens and explore the Kremlin’s numerous historic churches. If you are feeling flush splash out on a ticket to see the Kremlin armory filled with the crown jewels of the Tsars.

State History Museum C-2, Red Square 1, MOkhotny

Take a boat tour. A boat trip down the Moscow river is hands down the best way to see the city and get a sense for its scale. Boats pass by the majority of Moscow biggest landmarks and in the summer with some tickets you can make a day of it and hop on and off as you wish. When the river freezes over the luxury cruisers from the Radisson Ukraina hotel still travel the river by using their own ice-breaker. Art and literature. For Russian art head straight to the Tretyakov Galleries. The older of the two buildings houses a stunning collection of medieval to nineteenth Century paintings, while the equally impressive collection at the modern building on Krymsky val covers Russian art through the 20th Century. The Pushkin Fine Arts Museum is the city’s largest collection of medieval, renaissance and early 20th Century European art and tucked in behind the building is the fantastic Roerich Museum filled with the Russian painter’s mystical works. Many of Russia’s best writers have been inspired by Moscow and the homes of Chekhov, Tolstoy, Mayakovsky and Bulgakov – to name but a few – have been preserved as museums.
metropolis, but it also one of the greenest cities in Europe. In the south of the city you can enjoy the medieval architecture of the well cared for Kolomenskoye Museum Estate or the crumbling charm of Catherine the Great’s Tsaritsino. Stretching along the Moscow river Gorky Park and the Neskucnhy sad was always the people’s park and is especially loved by families, if your feet can take it the latter is also a good jumping point for a climb up the Sparrow Hills to enjoy a panoramic view over Moscow. To the north the stately palaces of Kuskovo and Arkhangelskoe offer a glimpse into how Moscow’s nobility used to live in the days before communism.

Enjoy the city’s parks. Moscow may be a bustling

Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, closed Thu. Admission to the

Kremlin Cathedral Square (5 museums-cathedrals, the Patriarch’s Palace) 100-350Rbl. Excursions 2,0002,500Rbl + admission. Ticket for Ivan the Great Bell Tower 500Rbl. Tickets for the Kremlin Armoury 700Rbl (seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30, 16.30). All tickets must be bought at the ticket offices outside the Kremlin walls.

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SightSeeing
Churches and Monasteries
Andronikov Monastery Andronevskaya pl. 10,
MPloshchad Ilyicha, tel. (+7) 495 678 14 67, www. rublev-museum.ru. Originally founded in 1320, this monastery is famous for its icon painting monk, Andrei Rublyev who lived and died here in the early 14th century. Rublyev is the poster boy of Russian icon painting having worked on the icons of the Kremlin’s Cathedral of Annunciation and other churches. Today there is the Cathedral of the Saviour, and the museum named after Rublyev is housed in the adjacent Chapel of St. Michael Archangel. It’s about half the size of Novodevichy and it has a quarter of its crowds. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed and last Fri of the month. Admission free.

SightSeeing
Novodevichy Cemetery Luzhnetsky proezd 2, MSportivnaya, novodevichye.com. This is the Who’s Who of Russia. Anyone who was anyone is here. Given the Russian adoration for statues and immense monuments, it is a fascinating place and hunting around for the famous graves is almost as much fun as actually finding them. Chekhov’s simple and modest memorial is in stark contrast to the many Soviet megaplinths. Notable graves include Stalin’s wife, Mayakovsky, Gogol, Eisenstein, Khrushchev and Yeltsin. Q Open 10:00 - 17:30. Admission free. Novodevichy Monastery Novodevichy proezd 1,
MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499 246 85 26, www.shm.ru. Monastery or convent, this place occupies a very specific place in Russian history. On the grounds surrounded by the Kremlinesque walls, which were built to act as a fortress, are four cathedrals including the majestic four-onion globes of Smolensky Cathedral which dates back to 1524. It was at Novodevichy that Peter the Great imprisoned his sister Sophia and executed her supporters from the Streltsy rebellion. Today it is a magnificent and peaceful cloister with an impressive icon collection. Be sure to look at the fascinating nearby cemetery too while you are here and take a stroll around the picturesque pond beyond the walls. Q Open 10.00 - 17.30. Closed Tue, last Mon of the month. Admission 100-150Rbl.

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Cold War Museum (Bunker 42 on Taganka) D-3,

Danilov Monastery Danilovsky Val 22, MTulskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 14 80, www.msdm.ru. This classical monastery, named after its founder, Alexander Nevsky’s son Danil, has been in the news of late with the return of their original 18 church bells from Harvard in the US. The Soviets sold them off for scrap but a benevolent American, Charles Crane rescued them. The bells were recently returned due to the efforts (and cash no doubt) of Faberge egg rescuer, Viktor Vekselberg. Danilov Monastery was the last monastery to be closed under the Soviets and the first to be reopened under Gorbachev in 1983. Q Open 07:00 - 20.00. Services at 7:00, 17:00. Sat, Sun 08:45, 16:45. Admission free.

5-y Kotelnichesky per. 11, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 500 05 54, bunker42.com. This top secret bunker is located 18 floors beneath Moscow in the Taganskaya area. So close to the metro, there are not only adjoining tunnels but carriages rattling past fill the concrete passageways with a whole lot of groaning noisy sound. Decommissioned and sold off at auction, this ex-military communications post is now a museum dedicated to the Cold War. Complete with KGB rooms (now rehearsal space for heavy metal bands), raid sirens, and kilometres of tunnels, this is the real experience. Guides play the role of KGB officers and the exhibits are all very hands-on. Not recommended for claustrophobes, but definitely for the curious and historically inquisitive. The bunker is also available to hire for functions be there conferences or team-building role play games with lasers and paintballing and so on. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Russians 400Rbl-700Rbl, foreigners 700Rbl-1,300Rbl. Individual tours for groups of 5 or less people start at 6,500Rbl (Russians) to 11,000Rbl (foreigners). PN

Monuments to 1812
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour B-3, Ul. Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 28 47, www.xxc.ru. After Napoleon’s forces fled Russia, Tsar Alexander I announced his intention to built a grand cathedral dedicated to Jesus Christ “to signify our gratitude to Divine Providence for saving Russia from the doom that overshadowed her”. The neoclassical cathedral was slated to be built on top of the Sparrow Hills, but when Alexander died and was succeeded by Nikolai I, the idea was scrapped. Nikolai’s vision was of something much more Orthodox in look, modelled on the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul. This new cathedral was not completed until 1860, and it then took another 23 years before the interiors were finished. The cathedral was consecrated in 1883. Only a few decades later in 1931 Stalin had the whole construction demolished. In the 1990s the cathedral was rebuilt anew based on old records and paintings. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Services are held daily at 08:00 and 17:00, extra services on Sat 09:00, Sun 10:00. Admission free. Guided tours in English for groups for up to10 people 6,000Rbl (pre-booking required call (+7) 495 637 28 47). Triumphal Arch Kutuzovsky pr. 38, M Park Pobedy. In 1814 a wooden triumphal arch was built on Tverskaya ulitsa, not far from where the Belorussky station now is. This was then replaced in 1834 by a grand triumphal arch made of stone with cast iron reliefs and the following dedication; “These Triumphal Gates are built as a token of the memory of the triumph of Russian warriors in 1814 and the rebuilding of the splendid monuments and buildings of our capital, Moscow, ruined in 1812 by the invasion of the Gauls and the two hundred languages with them.” As part of his re-planning of the city, Stalin had the gate moved in 1936. It was dismantled and then later reconstructed in 1966 at a new location on Kutuzovsky prospect in front of the Borodino Panorama museum.

Museums
bldg. 9, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 04 29, www.burganov.ru. This is hands down one of the most inspiring artistic spaces in Moscow and referring to it as a ‘museum’, does it a grave injustice. Burganov’s House is first and foremost the functioning workshop of Alexander Burganov (1935 -), one of Russia’s most famous living sculptors. His contemporary masterpieces, which can also be seen in many European capital cities, greet you from trees, windowsills and the neighbouring buildings surrounding the house’s courtyard - a type of open-air sculpture garden. Inside the house, Burganov’s smaller works, including several paintings, are on display. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 20:00. Admission 60-200Rbl. Free admission every third Sun.

Burganov’s House B-2, Bol. Afanasyevsky per.15,

Cosmonautics Museum C-1, Pr. Mira 111, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 682 57 60, www.space-museum.ru. Tucked under the huge monument to the Soviet Union’s race to the stars is this museum (sadly only in Russian) of all things cosmos. There are models of satellites, original space suits from both side of the Atlantic, the interior of part of the Mir space station to explore, photos and documents from famous cosmonauts such as Yuri Gagarin and plenty of artworks relating to man’s obsession with conquering space. The stuffed bodies of the first dogs in space, Belka and Strelka, sit proudly next to the tiny pods that they flew around the earth in. There’s also a café serving space food and some 3-D shows (for which you have to pay extra). Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20Rbl-350Rbl. Guided tours in English or French for up to 15 people by prior arrangement - 7,500Rbl per group. Call (+7) 495 683-18 26. Free admission every third Sun.
tyev Fonchenko 10, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 499 142 41 85, www.poklonnayagora.ru. Dedicated to the Great Patriotic War or World War II as it is known in the west, this museum opened in 1995 on the 50th anniversary of the Great Victory. The museum houses a set of evocative battle dioramas on the ground floor, with excellent explanations of the scenes in English. Immediately as you enter, you see the Commanders Hall and Grand Staircase leading up to the Hall of Glory, a solemn memorial space. Further along there is the exhibition hall with exhibits about the different battles and parties involved. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, last Thu of the month. Admission 0-100Rbl. nab. 7/Derbenevskaya ul. 7, Novospassky Dvor Business Complex, bldg. 31, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 640 14 76, rusrealart.ru. If you are a fan of realist art and haven’t yet exhausted your interest with a visit to the Tretyakov Gallery, then it is well worth making the trek down here to see Russia’s single largest private collection of realist art. Located in a former cotton print factory the massive collection spreads over four floors. There are great examples of the huge scale classic Soviet realism of Stalin’s time featuring works by masters of the genre such as Deneika and Serov, collections inspired by Cubism as well as new themes of despair, poverty and decay brought up by perestroika and the fall of communism. There is a free shuttle bus from the metro, otherwise it is about a 20 minute walk along the river. Once you reach the former factory complex, keep following the logo until you reach building 31. Q Admission 0 - 150Rbl.

Great Patriotic War Museum 1941-1945 Ul. Bra-

Borodino Panorama
Borodino Battle Panorama Museum Kutuzovsky
pr. 38, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 499 148 19 27, www.1812panorama.ru. Founded 150 years after one of the most famous battles in human history the Borodino Battle museum is not to be missed. It has a collection of weapons, ammunition, uniforms and graphics, but the main feature is the round canvas painting, 115m wide and 15m high. Standing in the middle of this panorama you experience up close the heroic (and bloody) battle during the 1812 war between Russia and Napoleon’s Grand Army in the days before CNN. The epic battle, which took place September 07, 1812, west of Moscow, was one of the war’s decisive encounters. 250,000 soldiers took part, of which a minimum of 67,000 perished. After Borodino Napoleon took Moscow, the city he left soon after it was set on fire. The Russian army led by General Kutuzov then chased the French all the way to Paris. Interactive displays shed more light on the progress of the brutal battle although sadly they are only in Russian. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Fri. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 21:00 (April - September), 10:00 - 20:00 (October - March). Closed Fri, last Thu of the month. Admission 110Rbl.

Donskoy Monastery Donskaya pl. 1, MShabolovskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 952 49 01, www.donskoi.org. The late sixteenth century saw the founding of this well-kept monastery, originally part of Moscow’s fortifications. The surrounding brick walls include twelve towers with the main entrance being decorated by bright frescoes as you enter. Formerly the headquarters of the Russian Orthodox Church until 1927, today it is a peaceful abode surrounded by pleasant parklands and a hub of religious activity very popular with pilgrims who come to visit the 16th Century miracle working icon and the holy relics of St. Tikhon. Inside the monastery grounds are bizarrely, a few tanks in honour of the Church’s efforts in the Great Patriotic War (WWII), although the real draw of course is the stunning 16th Century churches. The adjoining cemetery is also a worthy historical site dating back to the 17th Century. Excursions can be organised around the walls and towers. Q Open 08:00 19:00. Services at 07.40, 16.40. Admission free. Guided tours only for groups from 20 to 45 people, 250Rbl per person by prior arrangement. For booking call (+7) 495 952 02 53.

Borodinsky Bridge. The bridge that crosses the Mos-

Institute of Russian Realist Art E-4, Derbenevskaya

cow river opposite the Hotel Ukraina at metro Kievskaya was renamed Borodino bridge in 1837 as part of the 25th anniversary of the battle, as it was here that Kutuzov led his army out of the city for the last time. In 1913 the design and construction of the bridge was altered to incorporate numerous monuments and obelisks to great heroes of the 1812 war such as Kutuzov and Barclay de Tolly as well as lesser known but no less brave men such as the leaders of the partisan armies.

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SightSeeing
Did you know?
Did you know that there were once very serious plans to completely knock down the Moscow Kremlin and build a new modern fortress in its place? No, this wasn’t a Soviet plot to remodel the city; it was in fact one of Catherine the Great’s ideas to make Moscow look more ‘European’. The new Kremlin was to be a neo-classical masterpiece designed by the architect Vasily Bazhenov. The ancient cathedrals would remain, but everything else - the huge thick walls, gates and immense towers were to be obliterated to make way for elegant Doric columns and Palladian stairways. The first ceremonial stones were broken on the site in 1771, but just two years later the Empress halted construction permanently to save money for her war purse. The Kremlin’s outer walls had still to this point been left untouched and so the medieval façade of the ancient fortress was saved. You can see Bazhenov’s original full scale model and designs for the ambitious and groundbreaking project at the fascinating Shchusev State Architecture Museum. Schusev State Museum of Architecture C-2, Ul. Vozdvizhenka 5, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 691 21 09, www.muar.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Please note admission stops one hour prior to closing time. Admission 100Rbl.

SightSeeing
Pushkin Fine Arts Museum B/C-2, Ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 95 78, www. artsmuseum.ru. Opened to the public in 1912, this museum was primarily intended as an educational facility. Coming from the fashion of that time, it houses a lot of the world’s art in the form of plaster casts. It also has works by the Old Masters and representatives of various European schools of painting. 1924 saw the first addition of a picture gallery, to be followed in 1948 by the addition of many works from the 19th century. It’s a manageable museum, but be sure to know which section you are heading. Two buildings sit side by side - the first grandiose structure houses the old plastery cast bit, the impressionists are held in a separate wing for which there is a separate admission charge. The temperamental audio guides provide the only English available. Watch out for long queues at the weekends when locals pour in to admire the latest exhibitions. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100-400Rbl. State Central Museum of Contemporary Russian History B-1, Ul. Tverskaya 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7)

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5, bldg. 1, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 221 76 90, www.planetarium-moscow.ru. Space fanatics prepare to be wowed - the long and expensive renovation of this historic planetarium has yielded stunning results. At the interactive museum children and adults can learn about space, telescopes, satellites, gravity and other miracles of science by getting involved in hands-on exhibits that are very well explained in many languages and are simultaneously fun and insightful. There’s also a more classical museum filled with all kinds of cosmic artifacts and technology used in space exploration. Once you’ve tired yourself out with all that learning head into the huge star hall for the big show. Themes for the cosmic journey include black holes, cosmic collisions, Saturn’s rings and the sun. There’s also a 4-D theatre showing other exciting films and blockbusters, an observatory and a garden featuring modern examples of ancient stargazing devices. Q Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. Museum admission 180-350Rbl, large star hall 100-550Rbl, 4D cinema 150-350Rbl, observatory 130-250Rbl. per.3/5, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 499 271 34 17, icr.su. Nikolai Roerich and his family are possibly some of the most important Russian anthropologists of the past 100 years. Travelling all over Asia for years on end in the early 20th Century, Nikolai and his clan recorded the beliefs, life and art of various different nationalities hoping to preserve their way of life, describe it to the world and also learn from it. This fantastic museum is dedicated not only to Nikolai’s priceless paintings, but also the people he met during his many years of tough travel. Music, lights and themed exhibits add great atmosphere to the huge collection of artworks and artifacts from the Roerich family, whilst extensive English descriptions add depth to the work on display. Above all it is Nikolai Roerich’s magical and mystical imagination and painterly skills that shine through -. the most impressive works depicting the remote and romantic beauty of the steppe, the Himalayas and the religious mysticism of the east stay in your memory long after leaving. A must see. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 220Rbl.

Moscow Planetarium B-2, Ul. Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya

495 699 67 24, www.sovr.ru. Start early in the day with this one. There’s a whole century of the most turbulent, convoluted, well documented history to be seen and absorbed. Housed in a 1780s mansion and former premises of the Moscow English Club, this grand dame was also the former Museum of Revolution. Now that history has moved on, so has the museum, covering all aspects of Russia’s recent history. English texts are sporadically situated in the rooms to make more of the experience. Don’t linger too much in the Revolutionary phase or you’ll be too tired by the time the Space Race starts, and Perestroika and the great music section dedicated to Russia’s answer to the Beatles. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Sat, Sun 11.00 - 19.00. Closed Mon. Admission 20-250Rbl. English tour 4,800Rbl. Groups up to 15 people. AUW

kovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. For visitors anxious to uncover the mysteries of the famous ‘Russian soul’, the Tretyakov Gallery is the place to start. Founded in 1856 by influential merchant and collector Pavel Tretyakov and presented as a gift to the city in 1892, it is the world’s number one museum of Russian art. Ranging from exquisite and mysterious 12th century icons to the politically charged and prescient canvases of Russia’s favourite realist master, Ilya Repin, the collection is a rich and revealing insight into the history and attitudes of this long suffering yet inspired people. All pictures are labeled in English. Be sure to make use of the A3-size laminated information sheets found throughout the museum; there is always at least one English version hidden amongst the Russian ones. The gallery does not include the museum’s 20th Century collection, which is kept at a separate site a kilometre away. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 70-360Rbl. English audio guide 350Rbl. Guided tours for foreign groups of 5-20 people 2,400Rbl per group (by prior arrangement). PU

Tretyakov Gallery C-3, Lavrushinsky per.10, MTretya-

Gruzinskaya 15, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 499 777 48 50, www.tsereteli.ru. Tsereteli’s working studio where he stores yet more of the paintings and sculptures that now litter Moscow’s parks and streets is a bizarre den crammed full of the Georgian artist’s extravagant works. The main highlight here is the sculpture yard which is a forest full of colourful statues of people, angels,religious iconography, suitcases, boots and other odds and ends. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 13:00 21:00. Closed last Mon of the month. Admission 80-300Rbl.

Zurab Tsereteli Museum-Studio B-1, Ul. Bolshaya

Tours Around Moscow
Moscow City Guide, tel. (+7) 903 137 76 67, moscow-cityguide.com. Run by the ever energetic Tatyana, Moscow City Guide are great people to contact if you are looking for bespoke group tours, interpreters or just someone to help you get around the city for a few hours. Some of the most popular tours include The Mysteries of Moscow, Behind the Moscow River and Royal Estates. Tatyana can also organise mini-buses and smaller cars with their own drivers to help you get around town and provide interpreters to help in business meetings or trade fare events. Our favourite service is the ‘interactive’ tour - a kind of race against time Moscow treasure hunt! Q24-hour tours in English, French, German, Spanish and Italian. Theatre and circus tickets.
wayfan.ru. A new and unique twist on the usual tours around Moscow - travelling around the city on your own stand-up motorized two-wheeler, an American invention known as Segway. Given that you can cover around 10km in just two hours, a Segway tour means you really get to see everything interesting around the city - and comfortably without even breaking a sweat. You can order tours with guides, or just have someone who will go around with you taking pictures and of course there will always be someone pointing you in the right direction so you don’t get lost. A lot of fun and definitely not your usual kind of tour. Q City tour with professional tour guide 3,500Rbl. Groups of 2 to 8 people max. Individual customised tour 2,500Rbl/hour. Groups of 2 to 4 people. Prices are per person. For people over 16 years of age only, weight limitations 45Kg - 117Kg. Tours can be ordered online or by phone.

Tchaikovsky Museum B-2, Kudrinskaya pl. 46/54,
MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 691 15 14, www.glinka. museum. Dedicated to the life, times and music of the man who brought the world Swan Lake, Sleeping Beauty and the Nutcracker, the operas Eugene Onegin and The Queen of Spades and of course the 1812 Overture. It‘s kind of an endless list once you get going. This Moscow apartment where he lived briefly in the late nineteenth century is now home to a collection of photos and musical memorabilia, family photos, and Tchaikovsky’s devoted guides. The guide and the tour are provided free of charge but in Russian so if you don’t understand Russian, take along a translator. They do know more than you can read about not only about Tchaikovsky but the musical scene of Moscow at that time. Tchaikovsky’s various friendships are also enumerated here. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 300Rbl. Guided tours for up to 10-20 people 3,400-5,900Rbl. UW

Segway Fan, tel. (+7) 495 226 00 58, www.seg-

Nikolay Roerich Museum B-2, Maly Znamensky

Tretyakov Gallery at Krymsky Val B-4, Krymsky Val

10, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 238 13 78, www. tretyakovgallery.ru. Dedicated to Russian art of the 20th Century, this is the extension part of the Tretyakov project. And a worthy addition it is. Stunningly presented, each work contributes to the chronological project. Head up to the fourth floor to begin with the Moscow modernists. Not only is this venue, in terms of English, one of the friendliest, it is also very well presented. Everything is explained in English and as well as the canvas texts there are several multimedia and video representations providing a historical and political framework to understanding the pieces. Most impressive is the video of the destruction of the Cathedral, right near to a full screen window from where you can see the site today. A visit here is a real history lesson and allows the visitor to see the Soviet era as the long and complex process it was, full of difficult and conflicting attitudes and ideas and stages. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 100-360Rbl. English audio guide 350Rbl. PU

Moscow In Your Pocket

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August - September 2012

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SightSeeing
River Cruises
City Boat Tour A-3, Boats leave from the river stop
outside the Evropeisky Shopping Centre, just north of the Bogdana Khmelniktskogo (crystal) Bridge, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 225 60 70, www.cckship.ru. An hour and half’s tour along the Moscow River takes you past all the main Moscow sights making it a must see excursion for any city visitor. Boats make stops at different sightseeing points along the way, including Moscow University - Sparrow Hills, the Neskuchny Gardens, and the Kremlin. If you want to get off, explore the area, and hop back on another boat later, you’d better buy a full-day pass, or else, once you disembark, that is the end of your ride. The tour begins at the crystal pedestrian bridge near Kievsky train station and ends at the Novospassky Bridge. The Novospassky monastery makes an enchanting end to the trip before hopping on the metro at Volgogradsky Prospekt at the end of the big street by the same name. You can also board from Novospassky and end at Kievsky. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. Admission adults 400Rbl, children 150Rbl. All day passes with unlimited stops, 800Rbl, children 200Rbl. Navigation from April to October and boats leave every 15 minutes.

SightSeeing
Gorky Memorial Museum B-2, Ul. Malaya Nikitskaya
6/2, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 05 35, www.imli. ru. Designed by one of Russia’s most celebrated art nouveau architects - Fyodor Schechtel - in 1900, the Ryabushinsky Mansion is most famous as the former home of writer Maxim Gorky. This magical building is full of beautiful stained glass windows, a spectacular marble ‘wave’ staircase and exquisite carved oak paneling and is worth visiting just for aesthetic reasons. There is extensive written material available in each room giving insight into Gorky’s life in the house, his tastes in décor and ornaments and there are some stories about the famous contemporaries who sat and talked about the Russian soul there. Considering Gorky was the head of the Writer’s Union, that list includes everyone from Mayakovsky to Tolstoy. Q Open 11.00 - 17.30. Closed Mon, Tue, last Thu of the month. Admission free.

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Kolomenskoye Museum Estate Pr. Andropova 39,

Vodnoe Taxi C-3, Boats leave from the pier at Luzh-

kov bridge, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 589 47 80, vodnoetaxi.ru. Don’t want to share your boat cruise around Moscow with dozens of other tourists? Vodnoe taxi is the perfect solution. You can hire your own boat for one or two hour round trips and even get a guide or some food and drinks on-board too for an extra fee. The cheapest prices start at 5,000-6,000Rbl an hour for a 20 person boat and the route takes you past all the main sights. Q Boats can accommodate between 20 and 50 people.

Lev Tolstoy Memorial Estate in Khamovniki B-4, Ul. Lva Tolstogo 21, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 246 94 44, www.tolstoymuseum.ru. The house where Tolstoy and his family lived after leaving his family estate and moving to Moscow in the 1881 has been kept in pristine condition. You almost expect them to come inside and sit down to dinner or Sofia Tolstoya to serve tea from the samovar or to see Leo stomping up the staircase to his study to write a few more pages of War and Peace. This place makes clear how the family spent their time, including displays and exhibits of the shoes that Tolstoy made himself. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Thu 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, last Fri of the month. Admission 60-200Rbl.

MKolomenskoye, tel. (+7) 499 615 27 68, www. mgomz.ru. Sprawling and green Kolomenskoye is a favourite with kids, mums and dads, old grandmothers and young hipsters alike. The gentle sloping hills covered with cherry trees in the warmer months, the abundance of seating and the wafting aroma of sizzling shaslik from afar put visitors in a cheerful mood. Remnants of this estate’s past life as a Royal Estate can be identified in the scattering of different museums like the beekeeping house and the many churches. It’s also UNESCO listed. Got Tsar fever? Take a troika ride. Just don’t bring any beer bought from shops outside of the park or you could end up getting friendly with the police and making a deposit to their own beer fund. Q Open 08:00 - 22:00. Museums open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission to estate is free. Admission Museum of front gates 300Rbl, palace 120-400Rbl. Free admission to museums every third Sun.

Neskuchny Sad Pushkinskaya nab., MLeninsky

Prospekt. When you come out of Leninsky prospket metro, head straight down towards the river keeping to the right of the bridge to find one of Moscow’s oldest parks - the ‘Not Boring’ gardens. Once an area filled with the summer palaces of Moscow’s wealthiest nobles, it is now a charming slice of wildlife in the city centre. The park mostly consists of pristine forest, dotted with old summer pavilions, dilapidated stately homes and churches, ponds and quaint little stone bridges. It’s a great place for bird watching and if your legs have the stamina it is also a great starting point before heading up towards the Sparrow Hills (Vorboyevy Gory) which provide a great panoramic view of Moscow or along into the famous Gorky Park.

Moscow Zoo A-2, Ul. Bol. Gruzinskaya 1, MBarrikad-

Parks and Gardens
MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 544 34 00, www.vvcentre. ru. This massive complex of pavillion buildings whose glory is fading fast, long walkways and elaborate fountains is a throwback to the Soviet era of glorification. The 90 or so pavillions built to house displays of progress of the great collectivisation of the farms, now host a variety of commercial enterprises and some are not that different to what is found in the metro passageways. The Friendship Fountain with its golden dancing maidens each dedicated to a Soviet republic sits at the heart of the complex surrounded by various pavilions in different designs which each represent a Soviet republic and its achievements. Come weekends it is crawling with families and sports enthusiasts. Space fans should look out for the soaring monument to space flight and the cosmonautics museum in its base. If someone invites you to go to VDNKh - they mean this place or the metro station opposite that goes by the same name. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Pavilions 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 -19:00. Entrance to pavilions from 0 - 500Rbl.

All Russia Exhibition Centre (VVTs) Pr. Mira 119,

naya, tel. (+7) 499 252 35 80, www.moscowzoo.ru. Yes, it is a Russian zoo, so don’t be surprised to find that many of the animals are hiding indoors because they are cold in the winter. As it is a city centre zoo, there’s not a huge amount of space for some of the bigger animals, but despite its location Moscow Zoo feels large, green and peaceful. Meerkats, monkeys and dolphins seem happy in their enclosures and often show off for the audiences, while the pond has much exotic bird life to look out for. Kids will love it, especially the reptile house (entrance costs extra) and will surely pester you all day long to have a ride on one of the merry-go-rounds and a box of popcorn. As well as polar bears, wolves and a Siberian tiger, they also have other big game such as elephants, lions, giraffes and zebras. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, 10:00 - 17:00 (during winter period). Closed Mon. Admission 0-200Rbl.

Sokolniki Ul. Sokolnichesky val 1, bldg. 1, MSokolniki, tel. (+7) 499 268 60 11, www.park-sokolniki.ru. One of Moscow’s oldest parks is named after the falcon hunts conducted by the Tsars (a sokol is a falcon). In the warmer months, amusement rides are found here, including a ferris wheel from which there is a great view. There’s also bike rental so you can explore the park’s depth on two wheels. In 2012 Sokolniki will be getting a new look as it focuses on offering better sports facilities for its guests with tennis courts, football pitches and volleyball areas. They’ve also recently opened an open-air beach, outdoor swimming pool and open-air theatre. Q Open 24hrs. Entrance is free. K

The Golden Ring
Famous for their monasteries, ancient old-Rus style Kremlins and market squares, wooden architecture and fresh country air, the villages of Moscow’s so-called Golden Ring are certainly worth escaping the city for. The historic Golden Ring towns can be roughly split in to two clusters; Vladimir and Suzdal to the east of Moscow and Sergiev Posad, Rostov Veliky and Yaroslavl to the north-east along the Yaroslavl highway. If you do not have much time, the most easily accessible Golden Ring town is the ancient monastery town of Sergiev Posad, which can be visited in a day trip. Travelling to any of the other towns really requires staying overnight. Yaroslavl is the furthest Golden Ring town from Moscow, but is accessible by direct train. A trip to Suzdal requires a train and a bus journey, but the effort is well worth it to see this ‘jewel’ of the Golden Ring. You can find more detailed information and a full guide to the Golden Ring towns of Sergiev Posad, Rostov Veliky, Yaroslavl, Suzdal and Vladimir at our website russia. inyourpocket.com where you can also download a pdf instant guide to the region.

Writer’s museums
MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 691 61 54, www.goslitmuz.ru. Chekhov never went out of favour even during the Soviet years. His museum opened here for the first time in 1953, and underwent a spring clean in 2003. The objects remain authentic, a little too authentic when you see the tiny metal bed he slept on. It was from this red castle-like house that he left to go on his epic jaunt to Sakhalin, at that time the journey took around three months. It was also here that the music lover, who lived with his mother, brother Mikhail and sister Maria, received patients, continuing his work as a doctor. Tchaikovsky came to thank him for the personal dedication in his book Gloomy People. Also upstairs there are exhibitions following the life of the great writer, a surprising number of photos and a display showing different dramatic productions of his plays around the world. Q Open 11:00 - 17:00, Wed, Fri 14:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 50-100Rbl.

Chekhov Museum B-2, Ul. Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya 6,

Gorky Park B-4, Ul. Krymsky Val 9, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 237 12 66, www.park-gorkogo.com. The immortal Gorky Park has had a complete makeover in 2011 and gone are the garish rides and rollercoasters as the park has gone back to being a wholesome place to picnic or jog and enjoy an ice-cream. Bikes are available for rent near the entrance, there are pedalos on the ponds, picnic areas are scattered throughout and near the Andreyevsky bridge where salsa classes gather in warm weather, there’s even an artificial beach. In addition to all that you’ll find regular open-air concerts and cinema, flea markets, yoga classes, great places to eat and drink, ping pong tables and the contemporary art space Garage CCC. There’s usually something special happening every weekend, with many events especially marketed at kids. Q Open 24hrs. Free wifi available throughout the park. moscow.inyourpocket.com

Tsaritsyno Ul. Dolskaya 1, MTsaritsyno, tel. (+7) 495 321 63 66, www.tsaritsyno-museum.ru. Commissioned by Catherine the Great as an out of town palace in 1775, Tsaritsyno is the poor cousin of the Moscow estates and palaces. Early construction didn’t meet with the Empress’s approval and by 1795, after dismissing the main architect, the complex was already lying in ruins. Over the ensuing years, it has become a fashionable country estate, a favourite place for locals to enjoy picnics amongst the ruins and since the 1980s the estate has been undergoing renovations and is looking wonderfully bright and colourful with its new lick of paint and blooming flower beds. Q Park open 06:00 - 24:00. Museums 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00-19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission park free. Museums 0-300Rbl. UK Vorobyevy Gory (Sparrow Hills), MVorobyevy Gory,
www.vorobyovy-gory.ru. Stand and survey over 1000 years of history. It might be hard to imagine the footprints of Napoleon when you are surrounded by kiosks and fast food vendors, not to mention the souvenir touts. Still, you can get an idea of the length and breadth of the capital from here, as well as seeing which of Stalin’s Seven Sisters skyscrapers you can make out or play at counting the golden onion globes. Turn around for a glimpse of the great promise of education for the people; Moscow State University (MGU) directly behind you. This building is grand, the rest behind it are frightfully unspectacular. The walk up the hill is steep, although the chairlift is occasionally open. In summer the river embankment is a popular spot for picnics, sunbathing and cycling.

Moscow In Your Pocket

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August - September 2012

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VeLiky noVGorod
Veliky Novgorod
Founded in 859, Veliky or Great Novgorod is generally touted as ‘the birthplace of Russia’. It is by modern standards a very small town. After its heyday in the Middle Ages, Moscow, St. Petersburg and Kiev took over as the leading cities in Russian culture and Novgorod became somewhat a backwater. This is no bad thing however as it has meant that much of the town and surrounding countryside has been saved from the blight of industrialisation and communist construction. Veliky Novgorod is now a world heritage listed site and alongside its famous Kremlin - which matches Moscow’s in both size and age - there are also more than 50 churches and monasteries in the region to be explored. 225 505, www.hotel-volkhov.ru. A great option for a short sightseeing trip or longer business trip as it’s one of the most central hotels in town and just 5 minutes walk from the Kremlin. The rooms, although a little frilly, look far more cared for than many other similarly priced hotels in Novgorod and the whole place has a lot more of an international feel than you’d expect in a small Russian town. There’s plenty of facilities including one of the only saunas in town. Q129 rooms (49 singles 1,950 - 2,200Rbl, 56 doubles 2,700 - 2,900Rbl, 15 suites 4,500 - 5,000Rbl, 2 Duplex 8,200Rbl). Extra bed 850Rbl. Visa support 800Rbl, registration free of charge. HALGKDCW hhh 8162 946 060, tk-podvorie.ru. This newly built tourist resort has the feel of a Swiss chalet to it upstairs, with a large pine sitting area with board games and rooms that look out onto the countryside. Downstairs there‘s a huge restaurant set up to look like a Russian log cabin. Although it‘s out of town, it is opposite the popular Vitoslavlitsy open air museum and there are plenty of activities to choose from ranging from tennis, bike riding and fishing, all the way to yachting and quad-biking. To get there take bus number 7 or 7a from the town. Journey takes about 20 minutes. Q16 rooms (10 doubles 2,100 - 3,200Rbl, 6 suites 3,200 - 5,500Rbl). Extra bed 1,100Rbl. Visa support 800Rbl, registration for free. THA6ILGBKW hhh

VeLiky noVGorod
Volkhov Hotel Ul. Predtechenskaya 24, tel. (+7) 8162

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Getting There
There is one daily train to Veliky Novgorod from Moscow. It leaves from Leningradsky station and the overnight journey takes approximately 9 hours. It’s also possible to travel from Moscow by bus (journey time around 8 hours) although taking the night train will be a much more comfortable experience.

Eating and drinking
(+7) 8162 73 08 79, www.gonicepeople.ru. Once you‘ve been to this place you won‘t want to eat anywhere else - it‘s just streets ahead of the other more pedestrian dining options in sleepy Novgorod. Choose from a fancy restaurant area with open kitchen, the bar or family friendly cafe to settle in and don‘t worry, you can see the Kremlin from wherever you choose. The menu is a pick and mix European selection of salads and grilled meats and fish. Staff are lovely. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (350Rbl). W

Khoroshye lyudi Ul. Meretskova-Volosova 1/1, tel.

Sightseeing
The heart of Novgorod has always been the Kremlin, which is known locally by its ancient name ‘Detinets’. The first records of fortifications on this site date back to 1044, although back then most of the Kremlin was probably made of wood. The current walls and towers of the Kremlin were completed between 1484 and 1490, after the previous ones had collapsed into the river. In recent years, the whole of the fortifications, as well as most of the buildings inside the Kremlin walls, have been completely restored. Inside the Kremlin the most noteworthy sights include the impressive St. Sophia Cathedral, the Novgorod history museum and the huge Millennium of Russia monument. If you are not afraid of heights it’s also worth climbing up the Kukui tower for a view over the town and surrounding countryside. QEntrance to the Kremlin is free as is entrance to the Cathedral. Entrance to the museum and tower costs extra.

Yurievskoe Podvorie Yurievskoe shosse 6a, tel. (+7)

Veliky Novgorod Kremlin

Ilmen lake

It is well worth making the short journey out of town to visit the open-air Vitoslavitsy wooden architecture museum and the neighbouring Yurievsky monastery which has an enviable position right on the banks of the Ilmen lake. There’s also a great Russian restaurant opposite the museum called Yurievskie Podvorie which does a good line in local specialties such as the mildly alcoholic beverage Sbiten. QTo get there take bus number 7 or 7a and get off at the monastery. The journey should take about 20 minutes. Admission to the Vitoslavitsy museum costs 90-150Rbl, entrance to the monastery is free.

8162 946 066, tk-podvorie.ru/en/. Seated inside what looks like a fairytale Russian wooden hut, you‘ll be served excellent blini, pelmeni (dumplings) and borsch by angelic looking wait staff in traditional costume. The place is very popular with tour groups, which brings down the rustic aroma a little, but they do offer a lot of Novgorodian specialities such as local soup recipes and ‘sbiten‘ (a hot drink made of various herbs and spices) which are definitely worth making the effort for. A very good value place to eat before or after visiting the Vitoslavlitsy museum, Yuriev monastery and surrounding countryside. Also has a mini-hotel. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTAULEGBSW

Yurievskoe Podvorie Yurievskoe shosse 6a, tel. (+7)

Where to stay
Park Inn Veliky Novgorod Ul. Studencheskaya 2, tel. (+7) 8162 940 910, www.parkinn.com/hotelvelikynovgorod. Novgorod’s only four star hotel is run by the Park Inn brand and it’s a definite step above the rest. The hotel celebrated 20 years in Novgorod this winter and welcomed in the jubilee with yet more improvements as the hotel is brought up to the bright and colourful Park Inn trademark look. Rooms are spacious, staff meet the professional Park Inn standard and the Beer restaurant down in the basement is one of the only good places to eat in this sleepy town and there’s now also the Night Art Club down there too. Access to the large swimming pool and saunas are included in the price as well as a children’s entertainment centre. To get there from the city centre take bus no. 4, 8a or 20. Q225 rooms (23 suites 8,500Rbl, 202 Single/double 4,200 - 5,200Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. PTHA6FLGKDCW hhhh

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See St. PeterSBurG
Climb the colonnade of St. Isaacs. One of the tallest buildings in the city centre, when it’s a clear day there is no better view than the one found at the golden dome of the city’s biggest cathedral. Walk along the rivers and canals. To avoid traffic and allow for the odd opportunity to sit down and ponder the beauty of it all, walk the city’s canals and embankments, where the St. Petersburg’s magical architecture and history are all reflected in the water. For those who prefer an energetic tour, head out on a bike and take advantage of St. Petersburg’s flat terrain. Explore the literary backstreets. Check out the areas behind Sennaya ploschad between the Griboedova and Moika canals, the setting of Dostoevsky’ most famous novels and also for some of Gogol’s more amusing short stories. St. Petersburg’s beauty is never far from something uglier and the city’s crumbling old facades and mysterious courtyards are very than romantic.

See St. PeterSBurG
Sightseeing
Hermitage C/D-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance
from Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl. Audioguide 350Rbl. Excursion bureau (+7) 812 571 84 46. AUK

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Kunstkamera (Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography) C-2, Universitetskaya
nab. 3, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www. kunstkamera.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of every month. Admission 150-250Rbl.

Russia’s capital city Moscow may be buzzing with business and pleasure, but sometimes it’s worth escaping for a few days and a visit to St. Petersburg, Peter the Great’s Window on the West, is an ideal place to go if you are looking for a city easily navigated on foot and filled with history and beauty. Bursting with world class museums, stunning waterside panoramas, tranquil canals, beautiful neo-classical architecture and brimming with culture, there’s more than enough to enjoy at any time of year. Here are our top ideas for a perfect short break in Russia’s ‘cultural capital’ for after you’ve done the Hermitage. For a more comprehensive guide look out for our St. Petersburg In Your Pocket print guide or check out the online version at st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com Take a boat trip. Whether you decide to take a guided boat tour around the canals during the day or head out into the Neva river at night to watch the city’s bridges open, you just haven’t seen St. Petersburg unless you have seen it from a boat. Stroll around the Peter and Paul Fortress. The fortress, with the towering golden spire of the Peter and Paul Cathedral at its centre is the heart of the city. As well as the cathedral the fortress houses numerous museums explaining the city’s history and there are stunning river vistas to behold from the fortress beach.

Hotels
Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel B-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166
(entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 5000, www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. hhhh

Luxury Night Trains
If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the northern capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for St. Petersburg every night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. After being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have already been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are spotless. Hungry? Lucky you! Every cabin has a pile of complimentary snacks such as bread, pate and cheese, fruits, yoghurts and waffles for when you get the midnight munchies. Hot breakfast and coffee is brought to your room in the morning and if at any moment during the trip you experience some problems you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they will come to you. If you want to wake up in St. Petersburg truly fresh in the morning, it’s certainly worth the money. The Megapolis train leaves Moscow’s Leningradsky station at 00:54, arriving in St. Petersburg’s Moskovsky station at 09:00. Trains return everyday to Moscow leaving at 00:20. Tickets can be bought from any ticket retailer, by phone or online. Reservations tel. (+7) 495 364 41 11, www.megapolis-te.ru

C-2, VO, 2-ya liniya 61/30 A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 40 11, www.courtyardsaintpetersburg. ru. hhhh Crowne Plaza St.Petersburg Airport Startovaya ul. 6, bldg. A, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 240 42 00, www.cpairport.ru. hhhh Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky D-3, Ligovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00 01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. hhhh Cubahostel C-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 5, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 921 71 15, www.cubahostel.ru. Demidov C-2, Sredny pr. VO, 28/29, apt. 25, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 70 64, www.demidovhotel.ru. W St. Petersburg C-2, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 6161, www.wstpetersburg. com. hhhhh

Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Vasilievsky

MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. Q The fortress is open 06:00 - 22:00. Museums open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00, closed Wed. Entrance to fortress is free. ULK Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood D-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00 Closed Wed. Admission 50-250Rbl. Kazan Cathedral C-2, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00. Daily services 07:00, 10:00 and 18:00. Admission to the church is free. Guided tours should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 570 45 28. St. Isaac’s Cathedral C-2, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, www.cathedral. ru. Q Open 10:00 - 22:30. Closed Wed. Colonnade open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets for the cathedral and the colonnade are sold separately. Admission Cathedral 250-350Rbl. Colonnade 150-300Rbl.

Peter and Paul Fortress (State Museum of history of St. Petersburg) D-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3,

Hotel Booking
Baltic Hotels Aliance
Pr. Veteranov 147, lit B, MPr. Veteranov, tel. (+7) 812 300 48 10, w w w.hotel-in-peter sburg.com O fferin g h o tel b o okin g ser vices for any budget, whether you’re a jet-setting mogul in search of a fi ve star hotel, an independent traveler seeking a hostel or a family in need of a short-term flat. They also provide visa support, can arrange transport or hire cars for their clients and organise tours in and around the city. Essentially, all of your travel concerns are taken care of by just one company.QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Getting to St. Petersburg
There are dozens of night trains travelling every day between Moscow and St. Petersburg, some of them modern and upscale like the Megapolis, and others more suitable for those on a small budget. In addition there are also many super-fast trains (called the ‘Sapsan’) which make the journey in just over 4 hours and travel daily during the morning, afternoon and early evening. There are also of course frequent flight connections between Moscow’s main airports and St. Petersburg’s Pulkovo airport.

Moscow In Your Pocket

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Shopping
Moscovites were born to shop. It’s just that for a long time, there wasn’t anything to buy. Different century, different story....

BuSineSS directory
Supermarkets
Bakhtele В-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya, 21, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 781 73 80, www.bahetle. com. This supermarket chain from the Russian Republic of Tatarstan specialises in Central Asian foodstuffs. The deli counters are piled high with different kinds of plov (meat pilau), stuffed peppers and vine leaves and baked goods. In the freezer section are at least 40 different kinds of pelmeni (dumplings) and the fruit and vegetable aisles are also well stocked with delicious goods. There’s also fresh soups to go and all the usual supermarket fodder. Also at ul. Tverskaya 22 (metro Tverskaya). Q Open 24hrs. A
tel. (+7) 495 650 07 60, eliseevskiy.ru. The flagship store of nineteenth century gourmet merchandiser and importer Paul Yeliseevsky, is now home to a wonderful shop. The grand interior has been restored to its pre-revolutionary glamour with gold bolsters, mirrors and sculptured mouldings. The ceilings are as high as a theatre. Stocked here, at reasonable prices are a variety of imported chocolates, biscuits and other foodie gifts as well as stocked seafood and cheese deli counters. There’s a wine room, stocked with wines from around the world and champers, as well as a souvenirs room out the back. The atmosphere is improved by such historic surroundings and the staff don’t follow you around like you’re about to pocket something. Q Open 24hrs. PJA

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Bookshops
Bookhunter D-2, Krivokolenny per. 9, bldg. 1, MChistye
Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 03 22, www.bookhunter.ru. Located a short walk from the Chisty Prudy metro station, this handy little bookstore is chock full with books. Fiction from around the world, history and psychology are all wellcovered subjects. The store also has a wide selection of English teaching material and large coffee table art and design books. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A

• Реструктуризация бизнеса и защита активов • Налоговые и юридические консультации • Холдинговые компании в Нидерландах • Легализации, апостиь и переводы «под ключ»

Gifts and Souvenirs
Prosto Tak D-2, Ul. Zabelina 5, MKitay Gorod, tel. +7
499 755 75 29, www.vot-tak.com. They say their shop doesn’t sell only gifts, but by the look of things on offer, there seems not much else to do with these funny Soviet inspired ashtrays, passport covers and toilet roll holders than give them away to someone. They also have an interesting selection of t-shirts, badges and bags that make more offbeat souvenirs than the usual things to be found around Red Square. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. PAKW

Yeliseevsky С-1, Ul. Tverskaya 14, MPushkinskaya,

• Trusted tax and legal advisor • Company registration and tax compliance • Reporting and accounting • Management and fiduciary services • Paperwork and more for expat and family • Full cycle legalisations and legal translations

Stary Arbat В-2, Ul. Arbat, Arbatskaya. For decades the

old Arbat has been one of Moscow’s most famous streets, loved these days more simply because it is pedestrianised than for its architecture which has been slowly modernised and chopped up over the years. The whole long street is lined with fast food chains like Mcdonalds, Starbucks and the Russian Muu Muu and souvenir shops with men dressed like boyars outside inviting you to enter and buy their Russian dolls, McLenin t-shirts and embroidered linen. In warmer months vendors await outside too offering paintings and made-inChina antiques. Everyone here speaks English and prices are sometimes high as it’s notoriously on every tour guide’s trail. MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 499 166 50 31, www. moscow-vernisage.com. This flea market is the place to go for your Soviet kitsch souvenirs and a little bit of everything else. It’s huge and rambling, filled with Russia’s best and worst salespeople. Here you’ll find matryoshki (nesting dolls), the laquer boxes, carpets, Soviet posters, badges, tea towels and so on. There’s also a large flea market on weekends. Bargain hard and be friendly, some of your encounters here have the potential to be the most memorable. Follow the crowds from the Partizanskaya metro station towards the kitsch Russian village. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00

Shopping Centres
GUM С-2, Red Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. (+7) 495
788 43 43, www.gum.ru. A trip here is essential - this elaborate three arcade structure with three tiers is constructed from limestone, marble and granite and was first built in the 1890s. Stalin took over the shopping arcade in 1928, and this was the place where the body of his wife, Svetlana was displayed after her suicide. This is where the legend of her ghost wandering the halls comes from. In 1958, it became a shopping arcade again and is today one of Moscow’s most popular tourist sights. Toilets for those in need are on the third level of the third arcade and in the basement (enter from the first arcade closest to Red Square). Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. PTJAK

Visit our website at www.bvdmlaw.nl

Ulitsa Bolshaya Yakimanka 31, 119180 Moscow T+7 495 935 7621 moscow@bvdmlaw.nl

Haaksbergweg 31 1101 BP Amsterdam T +31 20 650 9060 info@bvdmlaw.nl

Moscow is Russia’s business and financial capital and countless businessmen have lost and made millions in this town.

Russian-German Chamber of Commerce (DeutschRussische Auslandshandelskammer ) C-4, 1-y Ka-

Vernissage v Izmailovo Izmailovskoye schosse 73zh,

Accountants and Consultants
Deloitte B-1, Ul. Lesnaya 5b, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 787 06 00, www.deloitte.com. Ernst and Young D-3, Sadovnicheskaya nab. 77, bld. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 705 97 00, www.ey.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG Presnenskaya nab. 10, complex Bashnya na naberejnoy, block C, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 44 77, www.kpmg.ru.

Olympic Gear
Bosco Sport С-2, GUM, Red Square 3, MPl. Revolutsii, tel. (+7) 495 620 32 15, boscosport.ru. The one-stop shop for official Russian Olympic gear and goodies. For those who lust after a shiny white and red jacket with Russia emblazoned on, and are ready to party with more than a months wage, Bosco is your shop. Everything is in the Russian team colours of white and red with the squiggle representing the Firebird of Russian fairytales. Fans of the Olympic mascot, Cheburashka (the famous and desperately cute Russian cartoon character) take note that there are at least three different sizes and two colours. White from the last Winter Olympics and Red for the London Games. Also at ul. Tverskaya 4. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PA Moscow In Your Pocket

Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 737 8449, www.ox-r.ru. If you can find your way around in here, you’ve made it in this town. Confusion central, this is a spawling place that has everything you need it just takes a long time to find it! Maybe that is part of the plan so that all customers stay and shop longer. There is a food court on the ground floor with a range of ready food options from sushi to fried chicken to sandwiches, perfect for when you’ve done the Kremlin and want a snack. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00 PJALKSW

Okhotny Ryad С-2, Maneznaya pl.1, bldg. 2, MOkhotny

zachy per.5, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 234 49 50, www. vdw.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. The American Chamber of Commerce B-1, Ul. Dolgorukovskaya 7, 14th floor, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 41, www.amcham.ru. The British Business Club , www.britishclub.ru. The Moscow Irish Business Club , www.moscowirishclub.ru. The Russo-British Chamber of Commerce C-1, Ul. Tverskaya 16/2, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 60, www.rbcc.com.

Banks
20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Raiffeisen Bank C-2, Ul. Petrovka 5, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 721 91 00, raiffeisen.ru. QOpen 10:00 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Exhibition and conference centers
Mira 119, VVTs, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 544 3400, www.vvcentre.ru. Crocus Expo (International Exhibition Centre) 6566 km Moscow Ring Road (MKAD), MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 495 727 26 26, www.crocus-expo.ru. Expocentre Krasnopresnenskaya nab.14, MVystavochnaya, tel. (+7) 499 795 37 99, www.expocentr.ru.

Citibank C-2, Ul. Tverskaya 6, bldg.1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 775 75 75, www.citibank.ru. QOpen 10:00 -

All Russian Exhibition Centre (VVTs) С-1, Prospekt

Tsvetnoy Central Market С-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 15, bldg.

1, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 737 77 73, www. tsvetnoy.com. This plush new shopping centre is a hipster’s paradise with high street brands like Mango and All Saints dominating the lower floors and more unique boutiques and ‘pop-up’ stores occupying the upper levels. The biggest draw of this shopping centre is the organic market on the fifth floor. Smartly dressed market vendours deal out top quality fish, meat, baked goods and fruit and veg from their immaculate stalls while the aisles are filled with luxury imported foodstuffs. Sushi, salads, ice-cream and fresh juices can also be picked up if you want a snack on the go. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.

Business Clubs and assosiations
noproletarskaya 16, bldg. 3, entr. 8, tel. (+7) 495 234 27 64, www.aebrus.ru. Finnish-Russian Chamber of Commerce D-2, Pokrovsky bul. 4/17, bldg.4b, MChistie Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 917 90 37, www.finruscc.fi. Hospitality Ideas and Trends Club (HIT Club) D-2, Ul. Pokrovka 9, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 59 46, www.club-hit.ru.

Association of European Businesses C-1, Ul. Kras-

Sokolniki Culture & Exhibition Centre (KVTS Sokolniki) 5y Luchevoy prosek 7, bldg. 1, MSokolniki, tel. (+7) 495 995 05 95, www.exposokol.ru. QOpen 9:00 - 18:00.

Translating and Interpreting
Elan Languages Business centre Petrovsky, ul. Nizhnaya 14, bldg. 1, office 28, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 627 57 34, www.elanlanguages.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N August - September 2012

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BuSineSS directory
Choosing Where To Live
North Moscow: Leningradsky prospekt
There are three campuses of the British International school as well as the Anglo-American School which neighbours the modern residential compounds Chaika and Pokrovsky Hills. Prices of apartments here can be as expensive as in the centre, especially if they are close to schools. Most apartments are in Stalinist era buildings, although there are also a lot of modern residential complexes with underground parking and great infrastructure which can be a more affordable alternative to compounds for families. Popular residential buildings: Triumph Palace (Sokol metro), the tallest residential building in Europe, has several playgrounds, underground parking and a fitness centre. Alye Parusa (Schukinskaya metro) is a complex of several high-rise buildings on the Moscow river with playgrounds, fitness club, yacht club. Sokolinoe Gnezdo is a complex of four secure high-rise buildings with underground parking right next to Sokol metro station. What the residents say: ‘We chose Alye Parusa because we have three active young children and wanted to be close to open spaces. Moving from the English countryside I didn’t want to be living in the city centre. The metro is a 7 minute walk away so my husband gets to the office easily by metro. My younger kids go to the schools nearby and my eldest gets picked up from the building by the international school’s bus service.’ Written in collaboration with Intermark Relocation B-3, Kropotkinsky per. 7, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 502 95 53, www.intermarkrelocation.ru

LifestyLe directory
Just as living costs might be high in Moscow, so is liveability. This is one of the most popular and rewarding expat destinations. If you’re looking to expand your network or are looking for services that remind you of home, take a look here. If you would like your expat group to be featured here, just drop us a line at russia@inyourpocket.com.

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Printing and Copying
MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 933 09 00, www.copymax.ru. Also at Paveletskaya pl. 2, bldg. 2 (Business centre Paveletskaya Plaza). QOpen 24 hrs..

Copy Max В-1, Ul. 2-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 16,

Exporting to Russia
In the roaring nineties, suitcase traders (chelnoki) were a common sight at railway stations and even in airports. Airfare was still relatively cheap and people would finance their trip to Turkey, India or even Poland by exporting cigarettes and vodka and importing sunglasses, electronic gadgets and other must-haves not available in Russia. Since then, Russia has experienced a retail boom and shopping trips to Europe are no longer a must for the demanding Russian or foreign shopaholic. But now and then, you may feel sorry that your favourite products are not available in Russia and have a great idea, like “let’s start importing organic T-shirts”. How many times have I listened to Dutch visitors who were convinced that importing deep-frying pans to Russia would be a goldmine! Here are a few things to keep in mind when creating your business case: 1. Be aware of projecting your own preferences on the Russian consumer. Take some samples first (in your hand luggage, not more than 50 kilo’s though or you will pay big money at the customs) and show them to unprejudiced consumers and corporate customers; 2. It is a long way. With the bulk of consumer goods now being manufactured in China and the Far East, this is still transported by sea cargo to Europe and from there by ship, rail or truck to Russia. The shortest way, by rail from China to Russia, is more expensive. 3. The promise that you can deliver goods to a retailer or wholesaler does not make a deal. You must have the goods in stock in Russia. As you may have noticed, Russians are very pragmatic people and they will not put their money on what may be in a month, but on what will be today or tomorrow; 4. Russia has only just very recently entered into the WTO and a lot of laws have to be brought in conformity with this. This is going to take a while. Everything that is imported in Russia must first be certified to prove it is not a danger to public health and safety; 5. Most finished products are subject to customs duties in the amount of 5-15% levied, in principle, on the invoice value of the goods plus transport costs. The lower the invoice value, the lower the customs duties, and a too high customs value will price your product out of the market. If you lower your customs value, the profit to be made in Russia will increase. Only if you have a Russian entity (which takes time to set up and costs at least 10,000 Euro per year to maintain), the profit is yours; 6. Russia’s retail sector is not consolidated yet but the big retailers, who can mean volume for the sale of your product, will squeeze every penny of credit space out of you and penalize delays heavily. By supplying to one of the big chains you effectively become a downside-riskparticipating-investor in their business. All these factors together may frighten the faint-hearted, but if you’ve come to Russia these small problems will not put you off. If you want to start on a small scale, an “informal web shop” may be an alternative: check out the Russian social network vkontakte and you will see groups with thousands of members which consist of people asking other people to buy a specific article in a store and then sending it by regular parcel mail to the recipient in a distant village in some Russian province. Because of its absolute transparency (order fulfillment is completely public), this system works. Written in collaboration with BVDM Tax and Legal Services. For legal advice visit their website www. bvdmlaw.nl or call (+7) 495 935 76 21.

Real Estate and Relocation
bldg.1, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 502 95 53, www. intermarkrelocation.ru. When relocating abroad, setting up a home is a key priority to help make sure that you settle into expat life comfortably and this British relocation consultancy firm have been helping out foreigners who are moving to Russia for more than 16 years. They promise a comprehensive service dealing with all elements of documentation and rental leases as well as offering invaluable advice and experience on what areas of the city are desirable for living in and what they offer in terms of amenities and services. They also offer ‘settling in assistance’ (helping you sort out those basics like your driving licence, furniture, insurance etc), schooling services, tenancy management and departure packages for when it’s time to move on. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A

Expats Clubs
American Women’s Organisation, awomoscow@
tel. (+7) 916 825 3352, auskirussia@gmail.com, www. gdaymoscow.com. British Women’s Club, info@bwcmoscow.co.uk, www.bwcmoscow.co.uk. Dutch Community, nvm.russia@gmail.com, www. nederlandse-vereniging-moskou.ru. International Women’s Club, iwcmembership@gmail. com, www.iwcmoscow.ru. InterNations , www.internations.org/expats/home/ russia/moscow. Moscow Hash House Harriers, tel. (+7) 985 364 99 36, moscowharriers.itgo.com. Moscow International Choir, moscow.international. choir@gmail.com.

Intermark Relocation В-3, Kropotkinsky per. 7,

Australian and New Zealand Social Group (AUSKI)

gmail.com, www.awomoscow.org.

Tax and Legal Services
Bauke van der Meer Tax & Legal Services C-3, Ul. Bolshaya Yakimanka 31/18, off. 203B, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 935 76 21, www.bvdmeer.nl. Tax and Legal Services specialisists. Deal with all aspects of reporting, accounting, tax compliance and company registration, full cyle legislations and legal translations, expat and family paperworks and fiduciary services. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

MosKultInfo (German-Language Community Newsletter) www.moskultinfo.de. Monthly newsletter Moskva Accueil (French Women’s Club), www.
for the German expat community site-moskva-accueil.org.

yahoo.com, www.nigeriancommunity.ru.

Nigerian Community Russia, nigeriancommunity@ Rotary Club Moscow International Shlyuzovaya SWEA (Swedish Women’s Educational Association), moskva@swea.org, www.swea.org.
nab. 6/1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 926 397 26 87, www.rcmi.ru.

Religious Services
Big Choral Synagogue D-2, Bol. Spasoglinischevsky
A-1, Ul. Malaya Gruzinskaya 27/13, MKrasnopresnenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 252 39 11, www.catedra.ru.

Catholic Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception

per. 10, MKitay Gorod.

D-2, Starosadsky per. 7/10, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 58 20, peterpaul.ru. Historical Moscow Mosque D-3, Ul. Bol. Tatarskaya 28, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 945 951 84 48, www.manar.ru. Memorial Mosque on Poklonnaya Gora Ul. Minskaya 2b (Poklonnaya Gora), MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 499 502 19 06, www.mmechet.ru. Memorial Synagogue on Poklonnaya Gora Kutuzovsky pr. 53, MPark Podedy, tel. (+7) 499 148 19 07, www.poklonnaya.ru. Moscow Buddhist Centre C-1, Petrovsky bul. 17/1, app.35 (entrance code 35k), MTrubnaya, tel. (+7) 495 956 61 46, www.mantra.ru. Ul. Volochayevskaya 14/1, MPloshad Ilicha, tel. (+7) 495 632 57 98, www.meodom.ru. St. Andrew’s Anglican Church B-2, Voznesensky per. 8, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 629 09 90, www. standrewsmoscow.org. Synagogue na Bolshoy Bronnoy B-2, Ul. Bol. Bronnaya 6, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 45 30, www. bronnaya.ru.

Evangelical Lutheran Church of St. Peter and Paul

Moscow Congregation for Progressive Judaism

Moscow In Your Pocket

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LifestyLe directory
Expat Events
Moscow Village Fete
St. Andrew’s Anglican Church, Voznesensky per. 8, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 629 09 90, www. standrewsmoscow.org. Moscow’s Anglican church St. Andrew’s, together with the Moscow British Business Club, will again host its annual Village Fete at the church grounds in aid of the local charity Taganka Children’s Fund. In traditional British style there will be games and competitions, raffles, crafts, food, music and fun for all the family. Entrance costs 200Rbl. The event takes place on Saturday 15.09 starting at 14:00.

LifestyLe directory
Wellnes and Massage
bldg. 1, MUlitsa 1905 Goda, tel. (+7) 495 609 35 50, www.baninapresne.ru. Certainly one of Moscow’s best cared for banya complexes and much less touristy than the famous Sanduny baths. There’s been a bathhouse here since the 19th Century, although sadly the building you see now is a red brick 1970s reconstruction of the old art nouveau style building. Krasnopresnenskiye has ample men and women’s sections with swimming pools, massage rooms and steam rooms as well as the traditional Russian saunas. Make sure to bring your friends along so you can follow the Russians in taking advantage of the flasks of tea while you let off some steam and have a gossip in the relaxing area. Q Open 08:00 - 22:00. Two hour sessions from 1,000 - 1,200Rbl.

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Neso Russia D-2, Ul. Nikoloyamskaya 1, 3rd floor,

MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 00 23, www.nesorussia.org. QOpen 15:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Krasnopresnenskiye Bani А-1, Stolyarny per. 7,

On Your Bike!
The traffic on Moscow’s highways and byways may be intimidating but don’t be fooled into thinking that Moscow is not a bike friendly city - in many ways it is! The embankments along the river are great for cycling, while Gorky Park, the park at metro station VDNKh (the All Russia Exhibition Centre) and the embankment in front of the Luzhniki sports stadium (metro station Sportivnaya) all offer bike rental and specially dedicated cycle lanes. If you prefer to keep your feet on the ground rollerblades are also available for hire at the same places. If you want to wear a helmet - ask for one, otherwise they will presume that you prefer to ride without like everyone else.

International Schools/Preschools
cheskaya 24, MVoykovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 987 44 86, www.bismoscow.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Little Angels Ul. Novocheremushkinskaya 49, office 12, MProfsoyuznaya, tel. (+7) 495 332 16 03, www. littleangels.ru. Q Open 08:30 - 17:00. Sat ,Sun closed. PLNW P’tit Cref B-2, Bolshoi Afanasyevsky per. 41, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 20 06, www.ptitcref.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. A The English International School (EIS) Zeleny prospect 66a, MNovogireevo, tel. (+7) 495 301 21 04, www.englishedmoscow.com. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A The International School of Moscow Ul. Krylatskaya 12, bldg. 5, 6, MKrylatskoe, tel. (+7) 499 922 44 00, www.internationalschool.ru.

British International School Ul. Bolshaya Akademi-

International Women’s Club

Every month the International Women’s Club (IWC) in Moscow get together to unite different expat women living in Moscow. The IWC organise regular informal coffee mornings on Tuesdays and Saturdays where newcomers can come down and have a chat and meet new people. Upcoming dates for the coffee mornings are 04.08, 14.08 and 01.09 at Le Pain Quotidien, ulitsa Stary Arbat 32 (metro stations Arbatskaya or Smolenskaya). On Thursday 13 September there will also be a special all-day coffee morning at the Novotel, ul Novoslobodskaya 23, metro Mendelevskaya, especially for new members looking to sign up to join the IWC before the first general meeting of the year and for existing members to renew their membership. For more information on what IWC offers check out their website www.iwcmoscow.ru.

Residential Complexes
Pokrovsky Hills Ul. Beregovaya 3, MTushinskaya, tel.
Angelovo, MMitino, tel. (+7) 495 730 32 00, www. rosinka.ru. Q A

Rosinka Moscow rural, Krasnogorsky region, village

(+7) 495 229 66 00, pokrovskyhills.ru.

Scots in Moscow

Medical and Dental Clinics
bldg. 6, entr. from Grokholsky per., MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 933 77 00, www.amcenter.ru. Q Open 24 hours. A European Medical Center В-2, Spiridonyevsky per. 5, bldg. 1, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 933 66 55, www.emcmos.ru. Also at Orlovsky per. 7 (metro Pr. Mira). Doctor on call 933 66 45. Q Open 24 hrs. A International SOS Orlovsky per. 7, 3rd floor, MPr. Mira, tel. (+7) 495 937 57 60, www.internationalsos. com. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 14:00. 24 hour emergency service. QPTA

Sandunovskie Bani С-1, Ul. Neglinnaya 14, bldg. 3-7, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 625 46 31, www. sanduny.ru. This historic, luxurious and well kept up banya (public bath house) works wonders on the winter blues. Its original 19th century glamour has been preserved: marble columns, red carpets and golden imperial archways greet you like royalty at the main entrance. Both the men and women’s sections are classically designed; Grecian statues and towering Roman columns that surround the swimming pools in perfect symmetry. There are regular and VIP class bathes in both the men and women’s sections. The women’s VIP class boasts a Jacuzzi, spa services and a hair salon. Private baths are also available. Q Open 08:00 - 23:00. TJAKDC

Moscow’s Scottish community is small but existent and despite not putting any efforts into promotion, they do still manage to consistently pull off three events a year; the St Andrew’s ball, a Burn’s supper and the summer Stramash. The Stramash (which loosely translated means something like ‘mess’) traditionally takes place in Krasnaya Presnya park (metro Ulitsa 1905 Goda) on the last Saturday of August. At the time of printing the future of the Stramash had not been confirmed, but if the Scots in Moscow do pull it together yet again you can expect traditional Scottish dancing, a barbeque and concerts from Scottish tribute bands. Keep an eye on our facebook page www.facebook. com/MoscowInYourPocket or the events page of our website for any updates.

American Medical Centres С-1, Prospekt Mira, 26,

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US Dental Care

Cultural & Educational Centres
amskaya 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 777 65 30, www.amc.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:45, Sat 10:00 - 17:45. Closed Sun. British Council D-2, Ul. Nikoloyamskaya 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 18 01, www.britishcouncil. org/russia. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Break 13:00-14:00 Canadian Centre D-2, Ul. Nikoloyamskaya 1, 2nd floor, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 37 52, www.studycanada.ca/russia. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Goethe Institute/DAAD Leninsky prospekt 95a, tel. (+7) 495 936 24 57, www.goethe.de/ins/ru/mos/ lrn/deindex.htm. Le Centre culturel Francais D-2, Ul. Nikoloyamskaya 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 79 74, www.ccfmoscou.ru.

The American Center in Moscow D-2, Ul. Nikoloy-

C-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitr ovka 7/5, bld. 2, MTeatralnaya, Okhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 933 86 86, www. usdentalcare.com. Well-establish e d an d lon grespected American Board-cer tified dentists and hygienists. They speak English and Russian, have a full range of general, specialised and children’s services and extensive cosmetic services and emergency care. The clinic itself is spotless, high-tech and very centrally located. Direct billing and Corporate membership available. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00-18:00. PJAW

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A smaller version of our broader scale map, this gives you an overview of the city and helps with general orientation. For more detail, pick up our Moscow In Your Pocket Mini-Guide with the full version of this map, plus essential listings for what to do and see and where to eat and drink.

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August - September 2012

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Map
Russian street names and addresses
In our listings we have abbreviated Russian street titles in the same manner that in English the word street would be shortened to become st. or road to become rd. etc. If you are unsure about how a street should be called in full in Russian check the abbreviations below: Ulitsa - ul. Prospekt - pr. Ploshchad - pl. Naberezhnaya – nab. Bulvar - bul. Pereulok - per. Allea - al. Kanal - kan. Doroga - dor. Furthermore the often used word Bolshaya (large) becomes bol. and Malaya (small) becomes mal. in our transliteration of Russian street names.

Map
Advertise on this map!
Call +7 926 243 20 32 or email natalya@inyourpocket.com

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August - September 2012

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Communism
Lenin’s mummified corpse in its Red Square Mausoleum (C-2) is one of the city’s prominent communist reminders, not to mention the almighty Moscow metro. Stalin’s red stars, atop the Kremlin towers, are still in place too. The elaborate kitsch chaos of the All Russia Exhibition Centre erected in the 1930s remains a testament to the Communist dream factory as does practically every other hulking square construction all over town. Most statues of Lenin, Marx, Engels and co. are still in place; Marx is on Teatralnaya pl., Lenin on Oktyabrskaya pl. and everywhere you look you’ll find hammers and sickles. Muzeon sculture park (C-3/4), near the New Tretyakov has become a repository of Communist era statues.

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Crossing the Road
Unless you want to play chicken with your life, you need to learn this word ! It's pronounced perekhod in Russian and means underpass in English. When you see this sign above a tunnel, know that you can head safely under and cross under the street. Miss one and you can end up walking for another 200 or 300 metres. The busiest interchanges have around five different exits, entrances to metro stations and a ton of shops.

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August - September 2012

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Street regiSter
1905 Goda ul. A-1/2 A Akademika Sakharova pr. D-1 Alexandra Nevskogo ul. B-1 Alexandra Solzhenitsina ul. E-3 Apakova pr. C-4 Arbat ul. B-2 Armyansky per. D-2 B Bakhrushina ul. D-3/4 Bakuninskaya ul. A-1 Balchug ul. C-2 Baumanskaya ul A-1 Bernikovskaya nab. D-2 Bersenevskaya nab. C-3 Bobrov per. C/D-1 Bogayavlensky per. C-2 Bol. Afanasyevsky per. B-2/3 Bol. Balkansky per. D-1 Bol. Bronnaya ul. B-1/2 Bol. Dmitrovka ul. C-1/2 Bol. Dorogomilovskaya ul. A-3 Bol. Gruzinskaya ul. B-1 Bol. Karetny per. C-1 Bol. Kazenny per. D-2 Bol. Kharitonievsky per. D-1 Bol. Kiselny per. C-1 Bol. Kislovsky per. B/C-2 Bol. Kozikhinsky per. B-1 Bol. Kozlovsky per. D-1 Bol. Lubyanka ul. C-1/2 Bol. Molchanovka ul. B-2 Bol. Nikitskaya ul. B/C-2 Bol. Ordynka ul. C-3/4 Bol. Palashevsky per. B-1 Bol. Patriarshy per. B-1/2 Bol. Pirogovskaya ul. A-4 Bol. Polyanka ul. C-3/4 Bol. Sadovaya ul. B-1 Bol. Serpukhovskaya ul. C/D-4 Bol. Slavinsky per. A-3/4 Bol. Spasskaya ul. D-1 Bol. Staromonetny per.C-3 Bol. Strochenovsky per. D-4 Bol. Sukharevkaya pl. C-1 Bol. Sukharevky per. C-1 Bol. Tatarskaya ul. D-3 Bol. Tatarsky per. D-3 Bol. Tishinsky per. A/B-1 Bol. Vlasyevsky per. B-2/3 Bol. Yakimanka ul. C-3 Bol. Znamensky per.B-2/3 Bol.Levshinsky per. B-3 Bolotnaya nab. C-3 Bolotnaya pl. C-3 Borodinskaya ul. (1ya) A-2 Borodinskaya ul. (2ya) A-2/3 Brestskaya ul. (1ya) B-1 Brestskaya ul. (2ya) B-1 Brodnikov per. C-3 Burdenko ul. A-3 Butikovsky per. B-3 Butyrsky Val ul. B-1 C Chayanova ul. B-1 Chistoprudny bul. D-1/2 Chisty per. B-3 D Delegatskaya ul. C-1 Denezhny per. B-2/3 Dobryninsky per. (1y) C-4 Dokuchaev per. D-1 Dolgorukovskaya ul. B-1 Dostoevskaya ul. B/C-1 Dubininskaya ul. D-4 Durasovsky per. D-2 Durova ul. C-1 E Elanskogo ul. A-4 Elizarovsky per. E-1/2 Ermolaevsky per. B-1 Eropinsky per. B-3 F Fadeeva ul. B-1 Filippovsky per. B-2 Furmanny per. D-1 G Gagarinsky per. B-3 Gavrikova ul. A-1 Gazetny per. C-2 Gilyarovskogo ul. C-1 Glazovsky per. B-3 Gogolevsky bul. B-3 Golikovsky per. C-3 Golutvinsky per. (1y) C-3 Goncharnaya nab. D-3 Goncharnaya ul. D/E-3 Goncharny per. (2y) D-3 Gorokhovsky per. D/E-1 Granatny per. B-2 Grokholsky per. C/D-1 Gusyatnikov per. D-1 I Ilinka ul. C-2 Ipatyevsky per. C-2 K Kadashevskaya nab. C-3 Kadashevsky per. (1y) C-3 Kalanchevskaya ul. D-1 Kalashny per. B-2 Kazachy per. (1y) C-4 Kazachy per. (2y) C-4 Kazakova ul. D-1/2 Kazansky per. C-4 Kazarmeny per. D-2 Khilkov per. B-3 Khlebny per. B-2 Kholovsky per. D-2 Khvostovoy per. (1y) C-4 Kievskaya ul. A-3 Klimentovsky per. C/D-3 Kolpachny per. D-2 Kompozitorskaya ul. B-2 Komsomolskaya pl. D-1 Komsomolsky pr. A/B-4 Konyushkovskaya ul. A-2 Koptelsky per. (1y) C-1 Korobeynikov per. B-3 Korovy Val ul. C-4 Kosmodamianskaya nab. D-2 Kostyansky per. C-1 Kotelnicheskaya nab. D-2/3 Kotelnichesky per. (1y) D-3 Kozitsky per. C-1 Krasina ul. B-1 Krasnaya pl. (Red Square) C-2 Krasnaya presnya ul. A-2 Krasnopresnenskaya nab. A-2 Krasnoproletarskaya ul. B/C-1 Krasnoprudnaya ul. D-1 Kremlevskaya nab. C-2 Krivokolenny per. C/D-2, D-1 Kropotkinsky per. B-3 Krutitsky per. (3y) E-4 Krutitskaya nab. E-4 Krymsky nab. B-3/4 Krymsky proezd B-4 Krymsky Val. B-4, C-4 Kursovoy per. B-3 Kutuzovsky pr. A-2 Kuznetsky most ul. C-2 L Lavrsky per. C-1 Lavrushinsky per. C-3 Lefortovskaya nab. E-1 Leningradsky pr. B/A-1 Leninsky pr. C-4 Leontievsky per. B/C-2 Lesnaya ul. B-1 Lubyansky proezd C/D-2 Lva Tolstogo ul. A-3/4,B-4 Lyalin per. D-2 Lyusinovskaya ul. C-4 M Mal. Bronnaya ul. B-1/2 Mal. Dmitrovka ul. B-1 Mal. Gruzinskaya ul. A-1 Mal. Karetny per. C-1 Mal. Kozikhinsky per. B-1 Mal. Nikitskaya ul. B-2 Mal. Ordynka ul. C-3/4 Mal. Pirogovskaya ul. A-4 Mal. Polyanka ul. C-3/4 Mal. Sukharevskaya pl.C-1 Mal. Yakimanka ul. C-3 Mal. Znamensky per. B-2 Manezhnaya pl. C-2 Manezhnaya ul. C-2 Marksistskaya ul. E-3 Maronovsky per. C-4 Maroseyka ul. C/D-2 Mashkova ul. D-1 Merzlyakovsky per. B-2 Milyutinsky per. C-1/2 Miusskaya ul. (1ya) B-1 Mohovaya ul. C-2 Molochny per. B-3 Monetchikovsky per. (2y) D-4 Monetchikovsky per. (3y) D-4 Monetchikovsky per. (5y) D-4 Monetchikovsky per. (6y) D-4 Moskvoretskaya nab. C/D-2 Myasnitskaya ul. C/D-1, C-2 Mytnaya ul. C-4 N Neglinnaya ul. C-1/2 Nikitsky bul. B-2 Nikitsky per. C-2 Nikoloyamskaya ul. D/E-2, E-3 Nikolskaya ul. C-2 Nikolsky per. C-2 Nizhny Krasnokholmskaya ul. D-3/4 Nizhny Krasnoselskaya ul. E-1 Nizhny Syromyatnicheskaya ul. E-2 Novaya Basmannaya ul. D-1 Novaya pl. C-2 Novinsky bul. B-2 Novokrymsky pr. B-3/4 Novokuznetskaya ul. D-3/4 Novokuznetsky per. (1y) D-4 Novokuznetsky per. (2y) D-4 Novoryazanskaya ul. D/E-1 Novospassky pr. E-4 Novy Arbat ul. B-2 O Obydensky per. (2y) B-3 Okhotny ryad ul. C-2 Olympysky pr. C-1 Ostozhenka ul. B-3 Ovchinnikovskaya nab. C/D-3 Ozerkovskaya nab. D-3/4 Ozerkovsky per. D-3 P Panteleevskaya ul. D-1 Paveletskaya pl. D-4 Petrovka ul. C-1/2 Petrovsky bul. C-1 Petrovsky per. C-1 Pizhevsky per. C-3 Pl. Nikitskie Vorota B-2 Plotnikov per. B-2/3 Plyushchkina ul. A-3 Podkolokolny per. D-2 Podsosensky per. D-2 Pogodinskaya ul. A-4 Pogorelsky per. C-4 Pokrovka ul. D-1/2 Pokrovsky bul. D-2 Pomerancev per. B-3 Posledny per. C-1 Potapovsky per. D-2 Povarskaya ul. B-2 Pozharsky per. B-3 Prechistenskaya nab. B/C-3 Prechistensky per. B-3 Presnensky val ul. A-1 Prospekt Mira C-1 Protopopovsky per. C/D-1 Pugovishnikov per. A/B-4 Pushechnaya ul. C-2 Pushkinskaya nab. B-4 Pushkinskaya pl. B/C-1 Pyatnitskaya ul. C/D-3, D-4 Pyevchyesky per. D-2 R Raushskaya nab. C/D-2 Romanov per. C-2 Rossolimo ul. A-4 Rozhdestvenka ul. C-1/2 Rozhdestvensky bul. C-1 Runovsky per. D-3 Rybny per. C-2 S Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul. C-1 Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul. B-1/2 Sadovaya-Spasskaya ul. D-1 Sadovaya-Triumfalnaya ul. B/c-1 Sadovnicheskaya ul. C/D-2, D-3/4 Sadovnichesky pr. D-3 Samarskaya ul. C-1 Samotyochnaya ul. C-1 Savvinskaya nab. A-3 Seleznevskaya ul. B/C-1 Serebryanicheskaya nab. D-2 Sergeya Makeeva ul. A-1/2 Shchepkina ul. C-1 Shmitovsky pr. A-2 Sittsev Vrazhek per. B-2/3 Skaterny per. B-2 Smolensky bul. B-3 Smolenskaya ul. A-3 Sofiyskaya nab. C-2/3 Soimonovsky pr. B-3 Solyanka ul. D-2 Spartakovskaya ul. E-1 Spasonalikovsky per. (1y) C-4 Spiridonovka ul. B-2 Spiridonyevsky per. B-1/2 Sretenka ul. C-1 Sretensky bul. C-1 Stanislavskogo ul. E-3 Staraya pl. C-2 Staraya Basmannaya ul. E-1 Starokonnyushenny per. B-2/3 Staromonetny per. C-3 Starosadsky per. D-2 Stary Tolmachevsky per. D-3 Stoleshnikov per. C-1/2 Stolyarny per. A-1 Strastnoy bul. B/C-1 Stremyanny per. D-4 Sushchevskaya ul. B-1 Syromatnitcheskaya per. (4y) E-2 Syromatnitcheskaya nab. E-2 Sytinsky per. B-1 T Tarasa Shevchenko nab. A-2 Tatarskaya ul. D-3/4 Teatralny proezd C-2 Teterinsky per. D/E-3 Timura Frunze ul. A/B-3, B-4 Triumfalnaya pl. B-1 Trubnaya ul. C-1 Trubetskaya ul. A-4 Trubnikovsky per. B-2 Tryokhprudny per. B-1 Tsvetnoy bul. C-1 Tverskaya ul. B/C-1, C-2 Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. (1ya) B-1 Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. (2ya) B-1 Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. (3ya) B-1 Tverskoy bul. B -1/2 U Usacheva ul. A-4 Ustyinsky pr. D-2 V Valovaya ul. D-4 Varsoniefsky per. C-1 Varvarka ul. C-2 Vasilievsky spusk pl. C-2 Vasilyevskaya ul. B-1 Vasntesov per. C-1 Verkhny. Krasnoselskaya ul. D-1 Verkhny. Radishchevskaya ul. D-2/3, E-3 Verkhny Syromyatnicheskaya ul. D/E-2 Volhonka ul. C-2/3 Vorontsovo pole D-2 Vorontsovskaya ul. E-3 Vozdvizhenka ul. B/C-2 Voznesensky per. B/C-2 Vspolny per. B-2 Y Yakimanskaya nab. C-3 Yakimanskogo polya (3-y) ul. B-1 Yakimansky pr. C-3 Yauzsky bul. D-2 Z Zemlyanoy Val ul. D-1/2,E-2/3 Zhitnaya ul. C-4 Zhukovskogo ul. D-1/2 Znamenka ul. B/C-2 Zoologicheskaya ul. B-1 Zubovsky bul. B-3 Zvenigorodskoe shosse A-1 Abbreviations Ul. - Ulitsa Per. - Pereulok Pr. - Prospekt Pl. - Ploschad Bul. - Bulvar Nab. - Naberezhnaya Bol. - Bolshaya Mal. - Malaya

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