In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...
The stuff of the insides of the thing you’re reading…
03.… Prolog 06…. Preassembly 8-9… Parts Diagram 13.… Building the beast 34.… Painting the beast 46.… Epilog
Acronyms used in this manual GW-Games Workshop FW-Forge World • • •
Hubble Telescope Images courtesy of NASA and the Space Telescope Science Institute under free use for public domain. Visit http://hubble.nasa.gov/ and http://www.stsci.edu/resources/ for more information. All other images are copyright 2008 Atom Kahut, Squid Brain Productions. This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 United States License. To view a copy of this license, visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/us/ or send a letter to Creative Commons, 171 Second Street, Suite 300, San Francisco, California, 94105, USA.
In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...
Welcome to the second installment of the Jabba’s Guide to Building Stuff series. I started my foray into Games Workshops miniatures in the early nineties. Epic! Space Marines changed my hobby life. On the cover you can see my first Titan. Not much has changed since that time. I’ve painted over 10 other miniatures! My Warhammer 40K army now consists of more than 10,000 points of Blood Angle badness and one Warhound Titan. I had plans to pickup a Thunderhawk Gunship and a Mars pattern Warhound Titan at the upcoming Games Day. However the recent Forge World newsletter with the sneak peak of the Reaver Titan has changed my mind. Maybe I’ll cover that build at a later date… I started thinking about making this manual after I opened the box and saw that there were no instructions. But alas I am lazy and often think great ideas which never see the light of day. But the good guys at http://www.miniwargaming.com/ decided to have a painting tutorial competition. This really set in motion me getting off my ass to actually put this together. So if you don’t like it, blame them. If you do like it, give me all the credit and go buy stuff from them! Normally my instruction manuals contain photography and iconography lifted from the websites and books (in addition to my own photography). Most IP law is complete and utter bullshit. I don’t make any money from what I do, I don’t even get widespread recognition like they alleged of people who use copy written material. If I’m adding to the content-in fact filling the void left by lack of content, then they should be thanking me. But since I’m creating this with the added intention of contest submission-I have stayed legal, this time. Feel free to send this to your friends, take it to Kinkos and print out a full color version. And if you work at Games Workshop or Forge World-you should sneak a copy of this into every Titan box you sell. Regards, Jabbakahut
I love Space Marines, and there’s nothing wrong with that. They’re awesome beyond compare. Some people don’t understand the reason for the Apocalypse compendium. But for those who started playing Epic Space Marines and then moved to 40K-it has been a dream a long time coming. I’ve wanted to field a Epic sized 40K scale army since I first purchase the original Rogue Trader book in 91’. Some purists may feel as though I’m slighting the Mechanium or Imperial Guard by including a Titan in my Space Marine army. Screw them! The way I see it, the Adeptus Mechanicus has an intimate relationship with the Angels of Death. Techmarines spend year of their training in the Forges on Mars. And it is well within reason for a Chapter to request assistance from the Adeptus Titanicus in handling of extreme situations (during the crusades the ships of the Adeptus Legiones included Titan drop ships).
Once I was convinced of the fluff reason to include this awesome presence in my army, and there were rules which would make it possible (thank-you Apocalypse)-I headed up to the nearest Battle Bunker in Glen Burnie, Maryland. I dropped an insane amount of money and drove home.
In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...
In interest of full disclosure I must admit that I’ve never really played 40K. I love the models and the fluff, just haven’t found a group to play with yet (almost 20 years now, I promise I’ll play one of these days). Currently about 55% of my army is out of the box, 80% of that is assembled. About 15% of that has been primed. And only 11 actual models have made it to completion (the last one complete over a decade ago). Along the way I’ve painted about a dozen or so other models. So what right do I have to create a painting & modeling guide? Over the years I’ve dabbled in just about every creative art. I believe artistry is a skill in itself. I have background in painting of various mediums, drawing, graphic design, and scratch built construction of many different project. The difference between my last 40K miniature and this one are worlds apart. The studying and participation in various art forms will make all other projects that much better.
My kitchen doesn’t have food, it has Space Marines.
You’re not going to get Golden Daemon tips in this guide. I’m far from a master painter (dare I say I’m barely an amateur). But with miniatures I’ve learned that you need to be happy with what you can do and work on improving it. If you want a show quality piece, just keep practicing, and practicing, and practicing (or visit the guys at http://www.bluetablepainting.com/). I own every GW hobby book ever produced and I fervorently read ‘eavy metal back in the day. I really recommend checking out the different modeling sections at the http://us.gamesworkshop.com/ website. I’ll try to fill in the techniques I used throughout this manual, but I’m assuming that you have a basic grasp on modeling to begin with.
I’ve got a stupid amount of modeling tools. I went over the basics in my first guide (which can be downloaded or viewed here http://www.scribd.com/doc/2058395/ JGTBS). Again I’ll have to assume you have the basic tools at hand. The more you have, and the more specialized they are-the easier things will be. But you don’t need to have much. The basics will suffice; hobby knife, hobby saw, sand paper, etc. Don’t buy tools from game manufactures. Games Workshop makes great models, but not so great over-charged tools. I love http://www.micromark.com/ -their prices are fair and the selection is phenomenal.
. The only indication that this isn’t a box of porno is a small sticker on the side. It’s nearly the size of the Space Marine Battle Company box set. It is a conspicuously nondescript box. I presume this is mainly for those who receive them shipped. And I must admit that they do a pretty good job of packing everything. So I decided to build the Titan instead. With the box open. The Plasma blaster is as long as a Land Raider.
Everything about the Warhound is impressive. I really wish this came in a box worthier of its contents. you realize that it’s only this big due to the packing material. Once the pieces are stripped of their cushioning they occupy about the same space as a Land Raider box. I half considered just mounting it on one! How awesome would that Land Raider variant be? Along side another which sports the Mega Bolter! But that may be a waste of money.Preassembly
The box is huge and you feel proud walking out with it. but not nearly as pretty. there are some great photos on the FW website which they could have used.
Once all the pieces were free-I spread them out based on approximately where they might end up. Why? Because this thing has no instructions! The folks at the Battle Bunker were able to include a 2 page pamphlet on the topic.. and the tiny adjacent kitchen acts as my shop. but you can find the instructions at www. I had to guess.In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff.
..pdf I only call them instructions in the loosest sense. VERY IMPORTANT! Check to see you have all the pieces.
You need a lot of space for this project. My living room is a computer room. I live in a 400sqft one bedroom apartment. It’s more like a tip guide.uk/warhound.forgeworld. Getting replacement pieces is beyond difficult (see the last section of this book). but nothing to really help you with the monumental task which you are about to undertake (and I’ve skipped enough steps in this guide to disqualify it from being a manual). Gives you some pointers here and there.co. I would even suggest doing this before you drop the cash in the store. The Forge World website isn’t the easiest to navigate.
Rear body piece (which attaches to the hips) Rear carapace vent Carapace wing
Exhaust pipes (not shown)
Carapace wing servitors
Interior head details Interior body details
Rear toe and ankle joint Ankle pistons Ankle socket Toe knuckle (different from rear knuckle) Knuckle pistons
Toe piston Middle toe (longer one) Right & left toes
. exterior & servitor cover hatches)
Thigh & greaves
Hip/leg ball joint Hips
Lower leg greaves
Lower leg with ball joint Knee pistons (I don’t remember what the crossed out ones were for.
Main body piece Carapace wing Rear carapace vent Vulcan Mega Bolter Void shield projectors Rubber hose Interior lights? (I put one on the outside at the rear of the Titan.. I was missing one set of pistons-I can’t for the life of me figure what happened to these other unknown pieces). Plasma chambers (I got 8 for some reason) Hose fitting fixture mounts (attach to weapons) Main body access
.In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff. the other went to the Hose fittings
Body top vent/engine assembly (interior.
Depending on how you assemble it. And by cross-referencing different photos from the website I was able to (mostly). you’re looking at 152 pieces. Of which 68 are both feet! To put that in perspective. But already I’m getting too political…
The details in the schematic for construction of the foot are invaluable. the Land Raider is only 66 pieces (not including the detail/marinethrough-hatch tree). Due to the unprecedented demand for certain models delivery may take longer than four weeks. And really. they’ve had the notice on the website for six months now that Currently due to high demand there is a delay in
shipping orders. To be fair. This is by far the most complex part of the model. they seem really busy.
.I can only guess that they presume you will figure it out along the way. But even then-it wasn’t until recently that I realized that the servo skulls actually attached to the various servo-arms and guns. 500 bucks and you couldn’t make a nice detailed manual? I’m doing it for free. So I guess they’re at least being honest.
You could use superglue with resin (do not use polystyrene cement). With the metal models you have to use superglue. be sure to use some sort of breathing apparatus (see: cover). Some vents can easily be cut with a hobby knife or clippers.In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff.com/games/40k/apocalypse/painting/forgeworld/default. Some pieces are flawless in their fit and finish. many times I nearly cut off an important part of the model or completely left a ventthinking that it was suppose to be there. Working with resin is a completely different game than plastic or metal. but I guess they’re busy designing stunning models). Apparently resin dust is very bad for you.com/
Notice how in the end I wasn’t able to fully break the bond.forgeworld.co.
You’re probably use to using a polystyrene cement (like the GW one) for plastic models (which actually melts the plastic together). The flashing (the thin resin membranes) is pretty easy to clean up.loctite.htm
Starting from the bottom up I cleaned all the pieces and attempted to get a good dry fit. Yet some will contain mold shifts that are nearly impossible to fix.games-workshop. but some will need a hobby saw..uk/resinmodels. You can pick this up at various hardware stores or check out the website http:// www. The molds from FW are a bit suspect. Trust me. some without any mold lines to speak of.
. You want to be careful with this part. but I decided to step it up due to the size weight of this model. I could only chip away at the surface while the bonded side remained.. Even when using the mask I could later feel the resin in my lungs. Hands down formula 416 won out. I did a quick experiment with various Loctite adhesives and the Elmer’s Ultimate glue. don’t mess around with this stuff.htm and here http://us. Both FW and GW offer some tips which can be found here http:// www. Every large piece suffers from air-bubbles (which you would think they could fix by purchasing a $700 vacuum pump. When sanding.
This means your final piece will be flaking paint-not good. spray and scrub with a sponge and brush. and some would never come clean. scour pads and cleaning brushes. But this stuff would just not clean up. countertop cleaner. The detail in the model also prevents using sandpaper in certain areas. spraying. I ended up trying half a dozen different cleaners. so give everything a couple days to dry. Resin is porous (filled with little holes). I recommend a strong cleaner (the degreasers worked well). I used dish soap.
. I suppose it’s possible that I received a model which happened to have an unusual amount of release agent left from the mold. This is problematic since it will prevent the primer from bonding to the resin (which was an entirely different headache). I used sponges. window cleaner. dish degreaser.I wanted to get all the sanding and shaping done before I washed the pieces.
Be careful not to cut off any fingers you may need in the future (hint: thumbs are important)
I tried every tip I could find (with the exception of using a high sugar based drink like coke).
There is something cool about Titan pieces drying next to dishes. I tried soaking. soak and repeat. Washing this thing became the bane of my existence. In the end I did the best I could and moved forward. This way I could get all the dust off of the model before assembling. dipping. Some parts were fine. floor cleaner.
. The amount of pivot points and areas of articulation is staggering. building the feet and the carapace at the same time (which is how I did the painting). Just keep everything from the waist down in one build (critical to get the balance of the Titan correct). As long as you put a little thought into it all-everything should be fine.. For example. With the foot flat you will have the pistons in the mid extended position. I attached each toe segment then pinned the entire length in two sections. But while you’re waiting for the glue to set-feel free to start on other areas. I feel reasonably comfortable telling you to just build the legs whichever way you want and that due to the incredible design-everything will work out. It’s conceivable that no two Titans would ever have the same pose. This being my first Titan. It’s only in hindsight that I’ve been able to thoroughly analyze the Titan build on a meta-level. But for the purpose of this elucidation I will attempt to explain how these 90+ parts will form the base of your Titan. dry assemble them into various poses to understand how all the joints work and where the balance feels right. I feel that my Titan could easily survive being knocked over on the table without any damage.. I just started from the bottom and worked up.
I suggest playing with the feet for a while. I should note that I wrote all of this post the completion of the build.In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff. And I totally agree. With a model this big and heavy you want as much protection and support as possible. By the end the legs contained about 20 pins. I built the first foot flat so that I could get an idea of how everything goes together and provide a stable platform in which to base the rest of the model.
You could conceivably construct different sections at the same time. The GW staff from the Battle Bunker strongly suggested pinning.
try again. I didn’t do this for one of the toes and now it doesn’t touch the ground.
I suggest completing one full toe first.Once all the toes were pinned into place I dry fitted the pistons. The problem is that you can’t really leave it alone (as it won’t fit into the corresponding hole). Then cut off a little less. If you try to gap fill it-it will be too big to fit. Sand or shave slivers off until the fit is perfect. I just shaved them down as little as possible. Estimate the length needed by placing them in the approximate position. and these legs are dependent on four toes. the legs and hips joints will be able to compensate for most variations. Just realize that the Titan will rely on two legs for balance. When cleaning the pistons I retained the greatest length possible to allow for whatever pose I might have in mind.
. you could have one foot in the air coming down to crush your enemies! Just be sure to use some really big wire to armature on the stable leg. the piece should barely not fit. And if you want to make a giant base for your Titan. Trim as needed.
You can get away with building the feet any way you like without much consideration for the rest of the model. But for sake of ease I suggest using all the toes for support. The mold shifts on the cylindrical pieces are the worst (see crude caver drawing #a). Once one is connected to the ankle you will be able to compensate for any changes with the unglued toes. Also see how I almost ran out of shaft length. I believe that you could get away with a half stepped foot using only the three forward facing toes for stabilization. The best solution would have been to cut the entire thing off and use some aluminum tubing to make new ones.
Notice that there are many parts which will need a shave to fit properly.
but that’s just not in the spirit of the hobby.
. It would be nice if there was some mathematical equation which could remove any uncertainty.
Just check out the level of detail!
Most of pinning is about making estimations.. The bent knuckles require a couple pins to secure to the ankle socket. but in the end it’s about having fun. But learning to use your gut when it comes to modeling has been the most important skill for me. I guess I wouldn’t recommend getting all crazy with experiments when building a $500 model.. I used a slightly lifted position. This can be intimidating if you’re just starting out. You want to do a lot of dry fitting for these complex pieces which will support the entire model.
For the second foot I went a little more adventurous. I didn’t want to go for a full step since I didn’t want to base the model and I needed the full support of both feet.In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff. When you start building models you will be scared to guess or experiment (at least I was). Will Hayes has designed an incredible model here. Once they were glued I drilled through their entire length to provide one pin for support. and the way it all goes together ensures that nearly whatever pose you conceive of will work. You can see that some of the toe knuckles are so extended that I nearly ran out of piston length. The feet can be positioned in any number of ways.
Anymore I just eyeball it. Using a hobby drill or Dremel. drill a hole in the first piece.
Lining up the second hole can sometimes be problematic. I use various sizes of brass rod to do my pinning. any ball joint or curved surface). stretching brass is hard).e. It can be a bit complex with odd shaped mating surfaces (i. If you’re off by some you could put a slight bend to the brass rod or just over bore the hole with a larger drill bit.
. trimming more is easy.Pinning is a rather simple process. A good tip is to use a shorter piece of rod in the hole already drilled. BAM! You now know approximately where the corresponding hole needs to be (you will still have to gauge the angle yourself). slap on some paint and mate the pieces. Often times it will be imperative that you take into account how the two pieces will mate (see crude cave drawing #1). Take the brass wire and estimate how much you’ll be using by holding it up to the pieces to be pinned-then cut a little extra (always cut a little more length than you need. I wanted this thing to be heavy duty. I made a trip to the hobby shop to pick up some larger stuff for the Titan. but the size you use for figures is just too small for a Titan.
It’s good to reward yourself for these small steps.
Just completing a foot was a reason for celebration.
. I spent a couple months on this project (which you could realistically complete in a week if you worked every day on it)... it’s a long build. Each time I reached a milestone I patted myself on the back.In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff. you need that to keep going.
You will build one leg in its entirety and then the second (like the toes-you will be able to compensate for variance in one when building the other). I wanted my Titan to be at full stance/stride. Note: I swear this sounds more difficult than it actually is. This is easier done than said (yes I wrote it that way).
Don’t fret. Any deflection in one direction of one leg needs to be mirrored opposite in the other leg (see crude cave drawing #2).Legs
As long as you’re not going for some crazy pose. and then glue one leg together (not the ankle socket yet). this is a well balance model. but alas I’m not a mutant. it would be nice to have four hands. Once I had one leg completed I drilled and pinned the two joints. As long as you’re not going for a difficult pose-you could just glue the ankle of the first leg and compensate for variation with the positioning of the second leg. We need to find the position in which to glue the completed leg to the ankle socket. The easiest way to go about it is to aim for the hip socket to be above or slightly in front of the ankle sockets. the legs are pretty easy.
. Now the complex part. Using one foot and the three leg sections just dry fit different positions until you find something you like.
dry fit together. glue the ankle. Your goal is to find a leg position which will put the hips halfway between the two feet and remain level. Lift it up. Now you want to find a stance which will leave the hips level and halfway between the two feet (see crude cave drawing #3). Unfortunately while assembling this I didn’t think to take photos. In one hand you’ll have the completed leg and foot.In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff. but it would be useful during this step).. you want to approximate the corresponding position needed to get a good balance (the actual position of the unassembled leg isn’t too important right now.
Take the two feet. you can roll the leg in the ankle socket to find the angle in which you want the leg to finally rest. Now dry fit everything together as best as possible (I don’t use blu-tac. Dump some glue into the remaining ankle socket and hold the position together until it dries a bit. Once you’ve found a satisfactory stance. drop some glue in. Once the second leg is glued (again not to the ankle yet). and put it back into the same position the best you can and wait for it to dry (alternately you could blu-tac the unassembled leg and still move the other leg while the glue is drying).. Just drop the unassembled leg pieces and remember how the other leg is standing. In the other hand you will have the three leg pieces and the other foot.
Once the first leg is completed the second is much easier. you just want to make sure your not extending beyond the range of positions).
. so you’ll have to rely on my crude descriptions and drawings. one glued leg and the three remaining leg pieces. Repeat the process to find the joint angles which will work best for balance and trueness (level of the hip joint).
I just grabbed some brass rods. I pinned the ball to the legs by drilling through the side directly into the other piece. clipped it a little short. the ball sockets which attach the hip pistons should approximately line up. Shoved a rod in the hole.
. I had bore out the holes a bit to get a good fit on the tiny sockets.With the two legs completed I pinned two pins through the bottom of each foot into the ball socked (you could counter sink the pins and gap fill the hole if desired). This was a quick fix with a tiny pin.
I was missing one of the knee pistons and had to improvise (see also: bitches and moans). filled it with glue and shoved it back in. To get the rotation correct just estimate while holding the hips. This scratch build worked well enough. I broke one of the ball joints off applying too much pressure. Then I glued the five ankle pistons to each leg. Attach the hip ball joints into the legs. some of them were missing the sockets completely. I hate working with green-stuff. pins and that weird power cylinder from the 40K box set. If everything has gone well you can now glue both legs into the hips and have a level balanced platform in which to rain destruction down on your foes! I pinned the hip in place by drilling through the flat crotch area which was to be covered by the cod-plating. Did some trimming and jammed it all together.
com/ These are the same magnets you want to use if you’re making a magnetized army tray. You’ll need a hobby saw.. but here you can see it in the body. That vise is a Dremel MultiVise and it is awesome! It’s like 30-40 bucks. I trimmed down the hip joint which fits with the torso and glued a one inch magnet onto both pieces.rare-earth-magnets.. These magnets are super smooth.
Working with Magnets
I started this project with the great idea of using neodymium-iron-boron (NdFeB) magnets to attach key joints. These magnets are incredibly strong.
. tocut through enormous vents. I picked up a second on after seeing how great they work. This was a great idea but there were some problems along the way. Since they are not porous. I only figured this out after an incident with one of the weapon mounts. To secure them properly I also had to coat the magnets with green-stuff. Although the fast that glue wont bond to them is a bit of a problem. These magnets are so strong that this is as close as you can plance them without an interaction.In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff. I bought them from http://www. glue doesn’t like them. or in this case a jewlers saw.
I didn’t have a photo of the magnet encased in green stuff for the hips. This works perfectly for the hips (which give me the option to rotate my Titan). effectively encasing them into the model.
. The fixtures were just big enough to house the corresponding magnet (make sure you don’t install a magnet backwards. getting them out can be very difficult). especially with the rubber conduits which would allow for weapon travel/swing. The hoses would virtually connect themselves (I admit for the short time it worked-it was very cool).The weapons affix with three points. I measure the thickness of the carapace and found that on the outermost hose connection I would need to drill all the way through. I then attached the rubber hose lengths to be cut later. I thought I could make it work. I thought this would be okay since it would only leave a cylindrical extremity which wouldn’t look too out of place. use the NdFeB magnets at the fix points. Personally I recommend just hard mounting the weapons (like I ended up doing anyway). the shoulder and two conduits. I’ll show you what I tried and the flaws.
Here was the plan.
It was a neat idea. and make sure you touch-up your photos in an editing program. you can’t take too many photos.. I put two pins. But if you plan on doing this. I had over 300 photos and still missed some very important steps. one on either side. use a tripod and learn your macro function. it shattered to pieces and ripped it out of the carapace (because it didn’t care about being glued). I guess that’s four things to remember. I could only find one photo of this. try to remember to take one every step of the way. I positioned the weapons at a relatively level position and glued the sockets in place. then use even larger ones.In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff. Oh yeah.
The magnets seemed to be large and powerful enough to hold the arms on. and it wasn’t good). These magnets are very brittle. If you plan on documenting your builds. After two days of fiddling with it in a vain attempt to get it to work and after drilling a hole nearly through the carapace-I scrapped the idea. I covered up the hole with a piece of plastic and decided to hard mount it all. When taking photos of miniatures there are two things to keep in mind.
I then bored holes into the arms and carapace to house the large magnets.
Notice the glue which remaind behind after the magnet decided to leave. use the largest magnets you can get. but as long as you have hips which swivel-you’re covered.. drilling through the side and filling the holes and socket with greenstuff (sorry. The problem came from when one piece got to close to a piece of metal and flew magically into it. and use plenty of light. This may have been solved by securing the magnets with green stuff like I did the hips.
I don’t know if there is a Titan which has a good fit to the body. I had no intention of painting any of the interior detail. pinning and green-stuff just to get the body together. If you want stuff to open. They’re not made like the Land Raider with cool pivot points. Again I believe due to the molds and the size of these pieces. I’m pretty good at mods. The first thing to do is fit the servitors into the missing section of the right and left shoulder carapaces. I glued every hatch and access closed. I suggest painting all the interiors before proceeding. The additional headache of making the interior viewable would have tested my patience. the carapace/body was a bitch of an assembly. I don’t recommend it-but if you decide to do the interior-more power to you. In the end I had to use some heavy duty camps. mine certainly didn’t. you’ll have to figure out how to pin your own joints. The way the entire upper body fits together virtually prevents this. If you do (god knows why).Body
There is no lying.
I presume the only reason they didn’t jus include them in the mold was to provide a big vent in which to fill the molds with resin... And these vents are huge! It took a combination of hobby saw and power sander to get them into a reasonable size.In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff.
Next I fixed the vents to the back. it will burn through resin like it was nothing (don’t forget the respirator!)
. Be careful if you use a power sander.
This is where the bulk of the weight will be. The front torso piece is a tough fit. Trial and error. shaving down obstructions.
. and dry fitting to each wing. Two in the middle and one right through the front. I used three pins on each wing.Once both wings of the carapace are completed you need to do a lot of dry fitting and cutting/filing/sanding.
Notice that the model won’t align properly unless you force it.
When pinning these areas.In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff. Then using a length of pin which is too short... pinning this helps secure it beyong the glue bond. With the pins complete I clamped and glued the hell out of it. Once the two pins were in place I drilled a third hole through the front off the Titan into each wing and pinned it there. dab some paint on it. line it up for a dry fit and viola! You have the mark of where you need to drill the corresponding hole.
. you want to pick a spot and drill the most level straight hole possible.
I cut some mesh and glued it to the underside of the top. Holding the weapons in place I estimated the length to hose to use (go a little extra. some boltgun metal and some color on the hoses. weapon and various details (plasma chambers & hose fittings). I sanded the sides of the insert down a bit to get a good tight dry fit into the cover.
Once the top was completed I glued it to the carapace. I wanted to put grating over the open slots which meant I needed to paint the engine before sealing it under the grating. undercoat. I trimmed the exhaust stacks to fit and glued them to the back as well. I didn’t do anything fancy for the paint. Also a couple pins in either side of the socket. You’ve got the arm. Add some glue and clamps. The weapons were pretty easy.Fitting the top vent proved to be a bit difficult since the rest of the model isn’t true (straight). you can always trim later).
I also felt it would be too difficult to put LED’s in such a small space. But then I found some crazy guy online who had put LED’s in his Tau. and spot for a switch.
For the head I wanted to put some plastic in the windows so you could see through them. Necron and Space Marines. In their heads for their eyes! So clearly it’s more than possible. In the end it worked well.
. You can buy transparency printer paper from any office supply store. and trimming as needed.. It was just a matter of cutting a piece. It didn’t matter as I later had problems with the undercoats and painted over the windows. trying to fit. There was also the issue of providing a battery compartment.In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff. I wanted a dark or color tint to hide the fact the interior isn’t painted.. But it was a good idea at the time. Or you can just take any printed image to Kinkos and have them put it on a transparency.
I toyed with the notion of putting LED’s in the model. I figured I would try a color fade from one side to the other. But I really didn’t want to extend this project more than I already had.
each seat has a headrest and a control stick. neck.
There are a few options with the interior that took me a while to figure out.
. hose fittings and interior detail. this may be another good spot for magnets.The head consists of top. it doesn’t seem to fit very well (there is a gap that could only be closed with glued and clamps). There are two wall panels. You can have the Princep in the Titan or a vacant seat. two additional tech priests. I glued the neck on and put the interior bits in then glued the top down. The control sticks are to use if you put your Titan crew on foot (took me a while to figure that one out). If you don’t glue the top on. But if you’re so inclined. bottom.
But some of the smallest icons looked unnaturally thick by doing this. but they were so large that they would be more fitting on a building. but I don’t see why they can create more super-heavy vehicles in plastic. and sure enough right after applying the second to last coat of mat finish it snapped. The flashing on the icons can be pretty bad. I would field 5 for the cost of 1 resin model. Threw on a Land Raider name plate. You could just trim away most of it. I knew the Imperial com would be the first to break off. I also trimmed the boarder from the Mechanium insignia. I tried to assemble my own Mechanium badges... now I’m just waiting for the areal to break off. Instead I just used my finger and sand paper on a flat surface to wear away the back until only the icon was left. Space Marine communicator and a pair of shackles from the first generation Rhino. Likewise I used some misc bits from the good ol’ bits-box.
. Imperial command communicator. How awesome would that be? In the meantime I’ll be waiting for the plastic Thunderhawk Gunship. If you compare the GW and FW Baneblade tanks you can see that resin is still superior. If Titans were a mere hundred bucks a piece.
They provide enough icons that I had some left over for other miniatures. I pinned it back in place. Games Workshop has made leaps of advancement in the manufacturing of their plastic miniatures and the level of detail which was once only obtainable through pewter casting.
For some final details I cut up the iconography which was included. You can really see the detail level achieved in these pieces.In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff.
That way nobody will have a miniature like mine. easy to create a cloth like drapery.
. Snip the top to create attach points and cut the bottom to indicate wear. I have the compulsion to mod every miniature. Add some icons and purity seals. They’re stiff yet still malleable. Cut some brass rod and attached the banner and remaining chain length.
I personally favor using old metal putty tubes to make my banners. Instead I used the Rhino shackles on the Vulcan Mega Bolter and made the banner to hang from that. I decided to hang the loose chain included in the box from this cod-armor with no banner. even in the most subtle ways.The D-rings which hang from the cod-armor needed to be drilled out.
In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff..
Throughout the rest of the model I attached various icons here and there..
I was finally far enough that the model was starting to resemble a Titan
. Most of which was concentrated on the leg armor greaves and carapace.
I say attempt because finding a spray which would adhere to the resin was a major headache.
. cod-armor and neck armor). Mega Bolter. Both of which were showing signs of extreme wear in just handling of the parts. Blastgun and head) and six armor sections (shin greaves.Painting
The guys at the Battle Bunker said that they fully assembled the Titan before painting it. For this reason I left the major components unassembled for painting. I have a difficult enough time painting when there are no other parts in the way. I went to scrape the surface of the head and found that the paint pealed off like sunburned skin. I was looking at five major component sections (legs. Two indicators presented themselves during the assembly. I don’t know how people do that. thigh greaves. Not good. carapace. And second was the head which I had sprayed before I inserted the windows. First was the vent/engine assembly which I had previously painted. Just to be sure about the cleanliness of the model (I had been handling it with pizza-greasy hands and drilling bits here and there not to mention the horrible attempts to gap fill with oil laden green-stuff) I gave it one final wash before attempting the undercoat.
and I spent the better part of the next two days trying to clean off the paint. I found a brass brush worked the best with minimal damage to the surface of the model.
Souring the net for tips on priming resin. Next I tried a Krylon Plastic Fusion spray primer. A couple coats of paint and plenty of mat finish was my final solution. I wanted to work up from a black base coat. I found that many places suggested using an Auto primer. I wasn’t smart enough to try it on a small piece..
This first attempt was using the Games Workshop Chaos black primer. I cannot stress this point enough. At first I used an older bottle. No help. You really want to use some 300-600 grain sand paper on the flat rough areas before you prime.. instead I figured it had to work! Nope. This time I was smart enough to try it on a small flat piece.In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff. Even down the road I found some areas where the adhesion didn’t take. This also helped later on in providing a surface with micro abrasions for the paint to cling to.
. Finally I tried the basic Krylon grey Primer. I headed to Autozone and picked up some Dupli-Color vehicle primer. I tried a new can just to be sure. A winner! After a couple of light coats I switched back to the Chaos Black primer (paint will almost always stick to paint). Still no good.
dry brushing and ink wash. My oldest issues of White Dwarf don’t have many color photos.com/ have been doing a podcast with a Hobby University series. I’m not a Golden Daemon painter and I never will be. And unless you have a great amount of concentration. I was going to give some tips on brush selection and paint choice.I like to do my painting quick and dirty. I can’t begin to touch their knowledge of the matter and I highly recommend checking them out.40kradio. Really good in-depth stuff. They spent an entire episode talking about brushes. it’s the only method for a model this large. but by the end I just wanted it to be finished. and each episode after that has been dedicated to a different manufacture of paint. but the guys at http:// www.
I like the easy stuff. Start with the basics and build your skills from there. In the beginning I was experimenting and working on details. But looking at issues in the early nineties you can see that even the Golden Daemon winners were merely clean painted by today’s standards. It can be very demoralizing to look through a magazine and think you can replicate that level of painting when you’re just starting out.
As long as you’ve got a good rattle in the pot-a minute of shaking will do the job. I use Citadel paints. A clever idea. but a little extreme in my opinion.
When I first open a new pot of paint I always put in 1cc of water and a penny (which I’ve recently switched to using little glass marbles instead). and I cut the label so that I can keep track of which Blood Red has already been opened.
The penny (or any other non-reactive object you put in the pot) will aid in mixing when you shake the paint up. I switched to a glass marbles because I found the pennies eventually lay flat in the pot and lose their effectiveness.
.. By the time I finished one detail the other was already dry. I’ve read of paint mixers made with old orbital sanders. acrylic is hands down the way to go. they’ve come a long way over the years.In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff.. I started with the headache of oil paints back when I first painted (early 90’s).
Here are my general tips. With a model of this scale I found that I could paint non-stop.
they are consumable. And this is me droaning on becuse I need to fill two pages. Two of the new brushes are getting close to dry-brush retirement based on the amount of use while painting this monstrosity.
On the left is a close-up of water after using a metallic paint. about half of which were new. the better looking bruch is sable which is of higher quality than the other one.
Too be fair. some people may go so far as to use different brushes. I just thoroughly clean the brushes when going from metallic to non-metallic. The better you take care of them the less often you will need to replace them. but where as the regular paint merely contains pigment. I used about 7 different brushes while painting the Titan.
. Even with popper care brushes will deteriorate.
Keep the metallic paints apart from non-metallic paints.Brushes are not a permanent tool. On the right is a paper towel-which also shows the specs of metal. Change your water when going from one to another. you can see the particles floating. Both use the same substrate (water). the metallic paint actually has metal particles in it.
I went with Scab Red for the main color. make it a good ol drybrush.. It was going to be a Titan that has only seen a few thousands years of battles (verse the 10K worth of most Titans). The black undercoat kept the red very dark.In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff. The best part of this was when a friend came over and saw the project.
I considered putting some thought into a pallet. I guess it worked. To finalize the legs I used some black ink and some red ink for rust effects. But in the end I just picked a base color and went from there. I started with all the leg armor pieces. I don’t know how I feel about this. I threw in some other metals for the different pistons and details.
Laying the color
Resin has a very rough texture. This works great for armor and metal. deciding which part should be a different color. And when a bruch finally dies. I figured this would make up most of the models armor coverings. I tried using some blue ink to give the metal a titanium look. The hobby painting section at the GW website has a neat little page that gives you quick tips on painting metal by selecting the desired result. he asked why I didn’t paint it more fresh looking.. My first step was to do a heavy dry brush with boltgun metal on most of the legs and any other area I felt would look good as bare metal.000 years of war has warped my perception of what a new Titan should look like.
Watch out for signs of brush breakdown. I used 2-4 coats to achieve good coverage. I wanted to create some sort of connection with the Blood Angles. I guess looking at 10. I wanted my Titan to look new (as new as a war machine can look).
You can see where the primer still didn’t fully take & my laziness as a painter comes out in some areas which I thought wouldn’t be visible. I finished the lower greaves with some ink to add grime near the feet. Once all the armor was completed I glued it to the legs. I doubt EXIM means anything. Getting used to touchups is the best advice I can think of. never mind fixing mistakes. I added some edge armor wear with the extremely simple technique of adding a streak of chaos black filled slightly in with boltgun metal. I guess it would be a number in Latin. I hated touching-up. ink wash applied after the script. back and forth until I was happy. I would do a coat of scab red and then touch up other areas with chaos black.
.I find that painting is all about touch-ups.
A simple quick layering for the banner. When I started painting my favored techniques was dipping the miniature in paint and calling it good. With oil based paints you have to wait hours before applying the next color.
but I really feel you should just roll with it.. Dry brushed some Ultramarine blue and highlighted a bit with enchanted blue.
Painting the armor took a very long time. Again I didn’t put much thought into what part would be what color. I picked out some details on the nose.. I estimate that it’s comparable to the Land Raider. I then added some more of the boltgun metal on black for wear/scars. I used the Blue foundation paint (which did do the job of coverage in one coat). I didn’t plan on where paint would begin and end. Added some stuff to the left side of the head. I also had to add a pin to the neck and drill a hole in the body at this point. I needed 2-4 coats to get the desired coverage over the black and there is a lot of surface area here. I would just paint until I felt it looked right.In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff. I would occasionally check out the photos of other completed Titans. There is just no way about it. Just roll with it. There were some things that I changed my mind on along the way.
Once I had the legs complete I decided that another nice nod to the Blood Angles would be to give the Titan a blue helmet like their heavy support troops. It’s rather difficult to paint scribbles that resemble writing-I pretend that I’m outside in the cold.
and filling gaps is pretty easy with regular model putty (I prefer the Model Master red putty you see in some of the photos).
. I can sculpt pretty well with some Super-Sculpy. I needed to do more gap filling.In painting the top I realized that there was no way around it. So I filled them in and gave it a couple coats of paint. The thing about green-stuff is that is sucks. Either way the gaps between the wings of the carapace and the center vent assembly were too much to bear. The engine stacks in the back had a horrible ¼” gap that had to be dealt with as well. but the green stuff seems to only work for organic shapes and models. I don’t know how the pros do it. not great but better than a giant gap. I may eventually try the grey-stuff.
Just used a base color.
Along the way I decided to add some warning lines on certain access hatches..In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff. painted some pipes and rivets. Dry brushed the black trim with some boltgun metal. Once the bulk of that work was completed I could start picking out the details. Once one side was glued I just twisted the rubber until the slack was taken up by the curl. Eventually the two main colors started coming together. I painted the hoses before installing them. It started black. neck armor and hoses. I added some other metallic paints and eventually washed with ink and found myself surprisingly pleased with the overall effect. but that was too bright.
. The magnetic hips came in handy a couple times for this.
With the body I needed to find a way to hold it so I wasn’t constantly rubbing areas while I rotated it to paint another side. but decided to make it look cleaner by masking instead. and then washed it all with black ink.
I attached the head. Most of the time it was sitting on foam and I used lint free wipes to rest my hand on the model.. I used about 40% more length than I needed.
The Aquila is a good example of me not having any idea of what I wanted to do. add a thin highlight down the length of the color. I tried it free hand at first. then I tried silver.
light green. I didn’t want the weapon to be competing with the head so I went with the green. or the green style plasma. Dark green. The only real dilemma was weather to use the blue style plasma.The Plasma Blastgun followed suit of the Mega Bolter.
. a little yellow and that’s it.
I repeated this on the weapon as well. I did think about making the Titan drop pod… Then I came to my senses. To fix the main hard point I first sanded down the paint to get back to bare resin (which would facilitate the best bonding surface).
This is a good reason to write down on paper what you intent to put on the model. The only reasons to base your Titan is for use in a diorama or if you want a crazy pose. Normally I don’t wait all that long before fiddling with a glued piece. and I used as much glue as I could (which extends the curing time). If you left extra like I said-you could now trim it to the designated length. Or do like I did with the head and create a couple loops. Sometimes a jig is complicated and requires ingenuity. Most of these still had the magnets which made it a little difficult to position them exactly as I wanted. I didn’t do one. but it was a real Latin word. With the Mega Bolter I barely had enough hose length to get it all to work. I would have pinned it if it wasn’t for the magnets already imbedded into the arms. I then had to make some sort of jig to let the thing dry for a few hours.
. then I misspelled it on the third letter and decided to just throw in some random Latin sounding letters. Even though I wasn’t able to use the magnetic mounts for the arms.
When gluing the weapons to the carapace wings I was worried about the strength of the joint. Titan base.In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff. or needed to spray the weapon. I put as much glue in the joint and around the edges as I could without it squishing out or potentially dripping down. other times its stupid simple. I had plenty of slack on the Blastgun and just let it hang where it would. I forgot what I originally intended. they came in handy when I want to have a gun hanging from my light fixture...
Once I had a couple pieces complete I took them outside for the finish spray. I started with the hose fittings. I let it sit for a few hours. But since this was going to be the weakest link in the model. doing each one in turn and letting it dry.
You really should strive for the best dry fit possible.Epilog
One of the intended purposes of this guide was to try and give you the sense of what it’s like to build one of these machines of war. I tend to blame that on the Forge World molds though. Will Hayes and his team did an incredible job with the Titan. and I will continue to patronize Games Workshop and Forge World in the future. It may not really be worth the cost. Models become easier with repetition. I don’t regret buying this. what can you do with an Imperator Titan?) I was so excited to get to building this that I didn’t spend as much time as I should have cleaning the parts. As long as you secure the magnets beneath something (as in the green-stuff encasement). theoretically the more people that you get into this hobby. Just remember to go powerful and large. everything should be fine. The fruition of all these Titans will end with a scratch build for the Warlord Titan (because really. the more the price should go down (I doubt that GW would let that happen though). I’ve already got some ideas on what I want to do with my Mars Pattern Titan and the Reaver Titan.
. So should you! Remember. I may try to magnetize the weapons on the other Titans. but it is very fun and quite a centerpiece for an army. I feel the need to really laud them for my complaints in the next section will make me sound mean and bitter (which I am). Hopefully when the time comes for you to build yours-you may already have some ideas of what you want to do differently. I highly suggest purchasing one of these if you get a chance to.
If not. If not.. I hope that you found this guide somewhat useful. then I hope you found it a little entertaining. well.In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff. then I hope you at least liked the photos.. If not. if not then you’re really obsessive for reading it to the end with no reward and you can go screw yourself! Cheers! -email@example.com
. This is my second modeling guide.
Thank you for deciding to consume something I created.
parts of it hardly fit together. I’ve gotten use to the expensive cost of buying the latest GW model. As you saw in the photos-my Titan was toeless for a while. it’s just that one of them belonged to a Mars Pattern Titan. I love their models.The Titan beautifully designed model. customer service. Not to mention the headache of communicating with them. my Titan came with all eight toes. 1/11/08 I packaged up my incorrect Titan Toe and include a description of my missing knee piston and sent it off to the Battle Bunker. The following is the correspondence I went through. The advancement Games Workshop has made in plastic miniatures is incredible. even the cardboard box it comes in is cheep. mold release that doesn’t seem to come off (maybe that’s not their fault though). Remember. I’ve diligently upgraded over the years to keep current (ironic since I don’t even play the game…yet). Games Workshop has deteriorated in many ways over the years. 410-590-8675 6711 Baymeadow Drive Glen Burnie. It has been packaged as cheaply as possible. no instruction manual? It’s odd to pay so much for a highly detailed resin model. ButThe details are stunning. One last thing…. My complaint can be boiled down to one important factor. and as well designed as it seems. he has an exceptionally difficult time getting a hold of them himself. more than $500 spent on 1 model. that also has such egregious mold shifts. And it’s been touted as the premium line of the really cool stuff. in addition to missing the knee pistons. The best part is of course in the end…
1/4/08 Purchased Wold Class Titan from Wayne at the Glen Burnie Battle Bunker. Oh yeah. bubbles in the resin. I proceeded to call back every week for the next four weeks for updates. Maryland 21060 1/7/08 I realized my toe was wrong and contacted the Battle Bunker. It’s like the boxes of crap you see in the dolor store. To be fair. Forge world is a division of Games Workshop. mechanics of howisitacomes together is superb. The I can’t help but feel a bit cheated by Forge World. I love their fluff (go pick up the Horus Heresy series if you get a chance-you will not be disappointed). 2/12/08 Wayne at the Battle Bunker suggests that I contact Forge World directly because although Forge World is part of Games Workshop. I feel rather cheated in this department. It shouldn’t surprise me.
.htm . Can I contact you with questions regarding rules for Forge World models? A4. you will get a far faster response.uk Please Note: This e-mail address is not for sales. due to format problems we cannot send out rules via e-mail.In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff. Also. We get lots of requests and we have to turn them all down.uk so that they can send you a replacement piece or go back to the store where you bought it and see if they will contact Forge World for you.com/games/40k/apocalypse/painting/ forgeworld/default.
So you head to Forge World website..
I love that they tell you not to use this address for problems. but then they don’t give you an address to use.
Q4.co..games-workshop.forgeworld. and after searching for a while you find this.co.If you have any rules suggestions or feedback about Imperial Armour rules then please e-mail them to us at ImperialArmour@games-workshop. sorry.
Bitches & Complaints
Through the Games Workshop site at http://us. For them please use the Forge World e-mail address. Priceless!
. If for some reason you’re missing a piece. events enquires or customer service problems. so please don’t ask for the rules for specific vehicles.. not the Forge World sales guys. either contact Forge World through their web site www. This address is for game related feedback and will be read by the Imperial Armour Editor.
I can provide a copy of the receipt and photos of the missing/incorrect pieces. Glen Burnie. r/Atom
. I’m attempting to seek what other option are available. Games Workshop HQ. When making a query about an order please let us have as much information as possible. USA. and also from the following stores.co. To my dismay one piece was absent and one was incorrect. name of person to whom we were sending the order. they were not able to replace the piece or get me the missing piece. name of person who placed the order. Canada’s HQ store now stock Forge World product. Glen Burnie.co.But more looking and finally I found something that might work! I HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT MY ORDER. They indicated that they will be sending the piece back to me soon. Canada (tel: 905 829 3295) Warhammer World. Lenton.g. (e. USA (tel: 410 590 8675) Notice how that last place is where I purchased my Titan? But at least there is an email address in that first sentence!
——Original Message——From: Atom Kahut Sent: Friday. Games Workshop Factory Shop.uk. Although I love the model. MD. Oakville. To no avail. Nottingham. address of person who placed the order. when the order was placed. I contacted the store which I purchased the model and sent them in the mail the incorrect piece and a photo of the missing piece. 2008 4:06 PM To: ‘fworderenquiries@games-workshop. Please note it may not be possible for us to answer emails straight away. Ontario. February 15. If you have a question about your mail order please either telephone our mail order line or send us an email to fworderenquiries@games-workshop. If you want a specific model its best to phone the store before travelling to ensure the item is in stock. address of person to whom we were sending the order. Unit 2&3. NG7 2WS (tel: 0115 916 8410) Games Workshop Factory Shop.uk’ Subject: Recent Titan purchase I recently purchased the LUCIUS PATTERN WARHOUND TITAN (WOLF CLASS) from the Games Workshop Battle Bunker.) Forge World products can be purchased through a number of different ways: Forge World Products can be purchased direct from any of the events that we attend. my experience has not proven to be a good one. A month passed. how the order was placed etc. England. MD. L6H 6Z8. 2679 Bristol Circle. If needed.
2008 3:00 PM To: Atom Kahut Subject: RE: Recent Titan purchase
Hello. below are the emails I’ve sent to the two different F. 2008 2:32 AM To: US Customer Service Subject: FW: Recent Titan purchase
I’ve been trying to get something straightened out with your brethren at Forge World. Thanks! John Spencer Customer Service Specialist
. March 01. I’ve yet to hear any response. February 23. Please tell me you can help.Spencer@Games-Workshop. This has been going on since the beginning of January.
——Original Message—— From: John Spencer [mailto:John. March 03.com] On Behalf Of US Customer Service Sent: Monday... We have talked with the Glen Burnie bunker and they are aware of your problem and just waiting on replacement parts to arrive from Forge World.com] Sent: Saturday.W. but luck has it that I had found another email address!
——Original Message—— From: Atom Kahut Sent: Saturday. addresses one and two weeks ago. So I’m trying a different one. I’ve been trying to get something straightened out with your brethren at Forge World. 2008 6:24 AM To: ‘forgeworld@games-workshop. Please tell me you can help. Finally I emailed someone at Games Workshop and got a reply!
From: Atom Kahut [mailto:firstname.lastname@example.org’ Subject: FW: Recent Titan purchase
I emailed the address below a week ago. he said the original toe I sent would be leaving Monday to be returned to me.co.
I waited another week without any reply.
3/1/08 called Wayne.W. addresses one and two weeks ago.In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff.
A week goes by without me hearing anything. I was also call the Battle Bunker every week to get any updates. below are the emails I’ve sent to the two different F. This has been going on since the beginning of January.
com] Sent: Monday.com Cc: US Customer Service Subject: Missing Titan Pieces Mr Kahut.Oddly enough I got another email only 4 minutes later…
From: Tom Gruhala [mailto:tom. March 03. This is because we like you rely on Forgeworld proper to send us any additional pieces to correct errors. 2008. I have been made aware through customer service of your issue with the Missing “Toe” and the “Twin Leg Strut” for the Lucius Pattern Titan you purchased. Thank you for your patience Tom Gruhala
. After a conversation with a member of my staff you spoke with less than a two weeks ago in ref with this issue I am writning to inform you that the toe is being sent out VIA UPS on Tuesday March 4th. However after searching through multiple kits and sources we here at the Bunker do not currently have a spare or replacement strut to send you. 2008 3:04 PM To: email@example.com@Games-Workshop. We are currently awaiting replacement parts for other kits in addition to yours and rest assure as soon as the piece arrives we will post it out to you ASAP.
My Name is Tom Gruhala and I am the Manager of the Games Workshop Battle Bunker in Glen Burnie.
please call our sales and customer service team on +44 (0) 115 916 8177. although I did get an email from Forge World recently…. Nobody will ever notice. but if not. I included a photo and even stated that the two wasn’t the middle one. And here I sit writing this near the end of April and I haven’t even heard about the pistons I was missing (not that it matters at this point).
Well. Contacting us by telephone ensures that your query is resolved as quickly as possible. We thank you for your custom and your patience. Thank you for contacting Forge World – we sincerely apologise for the delay in responding to your e-mail. and will be happy to deal with any queries you may have. We are open between 9am – 6pm.co. wherever possible. I didn’t care at this point.uk] On Behalf Of Forge World (UK) Sent: Wednesday.something that is not always possible with a single e-mail. thanks guys (two months later). UK time. Gee.In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff. we have been unable to respond to e-mails for some time and have encouraged customers..
——Original Message—— From: Stuart McQuarrie [mailto:stuart. Due to current high demand. March 6th I finally got my missing Titan toe… But it’s the wrong toe! I don’t know how you screw that up. We hope that your query has been resolved by other means since you initially sent your email to us. my build had been waiting for primer for a while now.mcquarrie@games-workshop. Forge World
. Monday – Friday. to contact us by telephone. April 23.. 2008 6:48 AM To: Atom Kahut Subject: RE: Recent Titan purchase
[DO NOT REPLY – REPLIES TO THIS E-MAIL ADDRESS WILL NOT BE ANSWERED]
Dear customer. allowing us to get all the information we need in order to help you . So yes my Titan has two big toes on his right foot. Kind regards.
.com/ Forge World www.com/ Micromark hobby tools http://www.wikihow.htm http://us.com/
Working with resin. http://www.com/doc/2058395/JGTBS My YouTube Channel http://www.games-workshop.co.youtube.com/games/40k/apocalypse/painting/forgeworld/default.forgeworld.games-workshop.uk Mini Wargaming http://www.bluetablepainting.co.com/ Blue Table Painting http://www.uk/resinmodels.com/Prep-and-Paint-Cast-Resin-Models http://www.forgeworld.References
Games Workshop http://us.htm Original Jabba’s Guide to Building Stuff (vol.micromark. 1) http://www.miniwargaming.