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70780059 Deadfalls and Snares a Book on Instruction for Trappers About These and Other Home Made Traps Arthur Robert Harding 1907

70780059 Deadfalls and Snares a Book on Instruction for Trappers About These and Other Home Made Traps Arthur Robert Harding 1907

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Published by Allan Hanna

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Published by: Allan Hanna on Nov 01, 2012
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—two standards (A), 14 inches long; (B) two
side pieces, 2^ feet long; (C) two drop bars, 2^

feet. Bore a hole in each piece with a one inch

bit, two inches from the end of the piece to the

center of the hole. (D) A piece of lath about 8

inches long, with one end beveled off to fit in slot

of E ; tie a piece of small rope, about a foot long,

two inches from che other end. (E) A piece of

lath, 2| feet long, with a slot cut crosswise two


Deadfalls and Snares.

inches from one end and a piece of rope tied two

inch from the other end, about a foot long.

If 3'ou i>et your nuiterial at the mill have four

rounds (F) turned out of oak or maple (must

be hard wood), three of them being 12 inches

long, one being 8 inches' long, ^ inch in diameter.

They must be some smaller than the hole, as they

swell when wet.

Your trap is now ready to put together.

Take one 12 inch round slip on the side pieces
B first, then the two standards A; next place a

12 inch round in the holes in the top of the stan-

dards. The front end of the trap is done, except

fastening the standards to the round and the set-

ting apparatus to the top round of standards.

Next take the remaining 12 inch round slip on

the drop bars C first, then the side pieces B out-

side; next place the short round G in the front

end of drop bar C.
You can drive nails thru the outside pieces
and the round. Where there are two pieces on

a side on one round, fasten thru the outside

piece, always leaving the inside piece loose so

that it will turn on the round. A much better

way, altho it is more work, is to bore a hole thru

the side piece and round and drive in a liard

wood plug. This is the best way, because if any

part of the trap breaks you can knock out the

Portable Traps.


plug much easier than to pull out a nail. The

holes should be bored with a ^ inch bit.

Tie the rope attached to E to the rear round,

leaving two inches play, between E and the

round. Tie the rope attached to D to the top

round of standards, leaving two inches play at

top and two inches between lower end of D and

bottom round.

First place a stone on the drop bar, weigh-

ing 20 pounds. Then raise the drop bar high

enough so that you can place the short lath un-

der the round of drop so that the weight rests

on the rope. These is the secret of setting. The

pressure on top forces the lower end to fly up.
Now place the beveled end of the short lath in

the slot of the long lath and the trap is set.
Hang your bait from the drop bars, under the

weight, about eight inches from the front. The
game will then come to the side of the trap.
Never tie bait on the lath.

Set the trap in front of the hole, block up by

setting up two stones V shape on the upper side

of hole, forcing game thru the trap to enter or

come out.



During my trapping experiences I remem-

ber of visiting an old trapper's deadfalls and

at that time I had never seen or used any trig-

ger other than the figure 4, but this trapper

used the prop and spindle. I looked at several

of his traps; in fact, went considerably out of
my way to look at some eight or ten of them.
Two of these contained game—a skunk and

opossum. I had often heard of these triggers,

but was skeptical about them being much good.

I now saw that these triggers were all right and

on visiting my traps again set a few of them

with these triggers. Since that time I have

never used the figure 4.
The prop and spindle I know will look to
many too hard to "go off," but they can be set

so that they will go off fairh^ easy. It is not

necessary that the trap be set so that the least

touch will make it go off. It is best to have the

trap set so that mice nibbling at bait will not

throw it.

Trappers who have never used the deadfall

will, no doubt, find that after they use them a


Some Triggers.


short time and become better acquainted with

their construction and operation that they will

catch more game than at first. This is only nat-

ural as all must learn from experience largely,

whether at trapping or anything else.
The prop is a straight piece about seven

inches long and about one-half inch in diameter.

The spindle, or long trigger, is about the size of

the prop, but should be sixteen or eighteen

inches long with a prong cut off within two

inches of the end to help hold the bait on more

securely. See cut elsewhere showing these trig

gers and of the figure likewise. These illus-

trations will give a better idea of how the trig-

gers are made to those who have never seen or

used them.




I saw some time ago where a brother wanted

to know how to make a deadfall, writes an

Illinois trapper. I send a picture of one that

I think is far ahead of any that I have seen in

the II-T-T yet, that is, the triggers. I have seen

deadfall triggers that would catch and not fall

when the bait was pulled at, but there is no

catch to these.

Trigger No. 1 is stub driven in the ground

witlL a notch cut in the upper end for end of

bait. Stick No. 5 to fit in No. 3 is another stub

driven in ground for bait stick No. 5 to rest on


Deadfalls and Snares.

top. No. 3 is a stick, one end laid on top of bait

sticlv outside of stub No. 2, the other end on top

of lower pole. No. 4 is the prop stick. One

end is set on stick No. 3 about one inch inside

the lower x)ole the other end underneath the

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