OUR LIST OF 40+ ADVENTURE TRAVEL OUTFITTERS

INDIA
& SOUTH ASIA

OCTOBER 2012 / 150

KERALA
Kuala Lumpur Asias Melting Pot Why Flanders is Europes Best Kept Secret Where to Eat, Play, Shop in Sydney

A TASTE OF

+
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TORONTO GURGAON MALDIVES YORKSHIRE VIETNAM COSTA RICA

MEDIA

$ 4.50 / SLR 450 / NPR 35 MVR 60

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October 2012
Features 54 Blue Lagoons Set a course for the Maldives, where a wave of sybaritic resorts is cresting on even the most far-ung atolls. This stunning archipelago of 1,192 islands scattered in the Indian Ocean is located just north of the equator. T+L charts eight new retreats.
BY SHANE MITCHELL

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inducementsvirgin beaches and backwaters, a little-known local cuisine, and two new resorts that are the last word in luxury. BY ROOPA PAI. PHOTOGRAPHED
BY YASHAS CHANDRA DURBIN. PHOTOGRAPHED BY ROB FIOCCA

Volume 7 / Issue 74

MACISAAC discovers three

74

68

56

Kerala The unexplored north of the Kerala coast is now welcoming visitors with a seductive smorgasbord of

Toronto Lights Up Thanks to an infusion of fashion-forward shops and nightlife, inventive restaurants and top-tier design. Canadas largest city has gained a newfound swagger and an edgy style all its own. BY JONATHAN

Costa Rica On a journey down the Pacic coast and into the rain forest, RICHARD ALLEMAN uncovers eight amazing jungle lodges and oceanfront hotels.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY BETH GARRABRANT

small cities where contemporary style is steeped in centuries-old artistic tradition.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARTHA CAMARILLO

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New Masters Could Flanders be Europes best-kept design secret? In Belgiums northernmost region, HEATHER SMITH

Passport to the World With inuence from Australia to Iran and most stops in between, todays Kuala Lumpur has never been at more of an international crossroads. JOHN KRICH sets off to nd out what makes it tick.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY AUSTIN BUSH

A view at dusk over the Leie River in Ghent, in Belgium.

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MARTHA CAMARILLO

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ENGINEERED FOR EXERCISE.

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Contents
Radar

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E D I T O R S N O T E

CON TR IBU TOR S

Departments 12 L E T T E R S 14

15 Design-led properties; Ilaria Venturini Fendis Italian agriturismo; the hottest cultural events; and more. 22 Quiz See if you can pair these cabs with their hometowns? BY NINA FEDRIZZI 24 Style The classic Oxford is the womens shoe of the momentchic and timeless. 26 Street Style Whats happening in Austin? Just ask the locals. BY JESSIE BANDY 28 Travel Uniform Bergdorf Goodmans Linda Fargo shares her on-the-road routine. 30 Eat Chennais favourite south Indian eatery is back for an encore. BY ROOPA PAI 32 T+L Picks Art and design share the spotlight at these
The superb views on the drive from the Yorkshire Moors to the Yorkshire Dales, in England.

additions to the culture map. 34 Spas Two heavyweight Asian spa brands have recently unveiled their rejuvenating outposts in the Delhi-NCR region. T+L investigates. BY SAMAI SINGH 36 Drive On a four-day road expedition in an ultraluxurious car RISHAD SAAM MEHTA explores the verdant Yorkshire countryside. Trip Doctor 47 When it comes to easyto-use tech amenities, hotels have lagged behind. Thankfully, some hotels are stepping up their game. Point of View 50 Fashion eccentric and vintage clothing acionado LYNN YAEGER reveals the

tricks and travails of high maintenance travel. T+L Decoder 98 A thriving contemporary art scene. Game-changing restaurants. One -of-a-kind shops. The stylish harbour city, Sydney has it all. MARK ELLWOOD gets the scoop. Strategies 105 Choosing the next great trip into the outdoors means knowing what adventure youre afterand nding the right outtter to match. Weve created a directory of standout specialists. But rst, what traveller type are you? Answer the questions and follow you path to a T+L exclusive trip. 112 Last Look

Deals
48 Looking to get away from it all this October? From adventurous pursuits, romantic weekends to luxe escapesweve shortlisted the best VFM deals.
BY K HUSHI K HANNA

On the Cover A secluded gazebo at the Vivanta by Taj - Bekal in Kerala. Photographed by Yashas Chandra.

CURRENCY CONVERTER
COUNTRIES INDIA SRI LANKA SLR NEPAL NPR MALDIVES MVR PAKISTAN PKR BHUTAN BTN BANGLADESH TAKA US $1 54 131 86 15 95 54 82 AUS $1 56 138 90 16 99 56 86 POUND 1 87 213 139 25 154 87 133 EURO 1 69 170 111 20 123 69 106

www.xe.com (Exchange rates as at press time).

*Starting price for a standard double in September; for resorts, rates indicate the starting price in high season. Price for a three-course dinner for two, excluding drinks.

O C T O B E R 2 01 2 T R A V E L+ L E I S U R E

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R I S H A D S A A M M E H TA

hotels* $ Less than $200 $$ $200 to $350 $$$ $350 to $500 $$$$ $500 to $1,000 $$$$$ More than $1,000 restaurants $ Less than $25 $$ $25 to $75 $$$ $75 to $150 $$$$ More than $150

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Editors Note

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where to find me payal@mtil.biz

October Issue

Travel + Leisure editors, writers, and photographers are the industrys most reliable sources. While on assignment, they travel incognito whenever possible and do not take press trips or accept free travel of any kind.
Write to T+L India & South Asia at travelandleisure@mtil.biz or Travel + Leisure India & South Asia, 323 Udyog Vihar, Phase-IV, Gurgaon-122 016, Haryana, India.

O C T O B E R 2 01 2 T R A V E L+ L E I S U R E

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PHOTOGR APHED BY AMIT SHARMA

n all the years that I spent in Europe, the three cities that I visited the most feature in our magazine this month. The fab three in FlandersBruges, Ghent and Antwerpformed my comfort zone when I lived in Brussels as they were short drives or train rides away, and charmingly individual cities to take visiting friends to and to explore myself. On page 80, you will discover these hidden jewels for yourselves. In keeping with Belgiums understated persona, as opposed to sometimes amboyant France and friendly Holland to the north, all three cities are somewhat reluctant to be placed in the big league, though they most denitely belong there. Discover Europess best kept secret. For me, my trips to Kerala have always been about a thousand shades of green and about the amazingly distinctive cuisine, my allergy to some forms of coconut notwithstanding. So, when we asked T+L contributor Roopa Pai to explore a brand new outpost in North Kerala, Bekal, that is now the focus of the Tourism Departments development plans and also catching the eye of both Indian and international hotel chains, I knew that there would be talk of food and of nature, both synonymous with the state, apart from the two resorts that have been doing brisk business lately. Find out about this hitherto under-the-radar and charming part of Gods Own Country on page 56. As travelling styles and temperaments evolve, so does the customization of trips and since so much of an itinerary is tailored for individual preferences, you can almost nd a trip that works just perfectly for you. In this issue, we ne tune the personality of an adventure seeker and get the top travel outtters in the eld to send in their top recommendations for the glam-trotter, the thrill seeker, the culture buff or even the weekend zoologist. Find a trip thats right for you on page 105. Our issue this month traverses most of the continents, from Costa Rica where we visit some jungle lodges to Toronto where the city has a new buzz. We island-hop in the Maldives; drive through the picturepostcard terrain of Yorkshire; take in the myriad international inuences in Kuala Lumpur and also pamper ourselves at two new international spas in the NCR in India. Plus, theres a special T+L Decoder on Sydney for all you people planning travels to the Southern hemisphere this winter/summer! PAYAL KOHLI

CALLING FOR YOUR VOTES...

INDIAS

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Voting is in progress for the 2nd edition of the Indias Best Readers Choice Awards so make sure you write in and let us know what your top picks for the best in our business are. Go to page 45 to pick your winners or vote online at www. travelandleisureindia.com.

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This is where memories are made. Our family time is precious, so we need to
make it count. At The Address Hotels + Resorts were never far apart. This is where an evening stroll becomes an adventure. Where we can leave work behind and just be together. With five hotels in Dubais most prestigious locations, theres an Address for everyone. This is my Address. Whats yours?

DOWNTOWN DUBAI | DUBAI MALL | DUBAI MARINA | MONTGOMERIE DUBAI | THE PALACE - THE OLD TOWN CALL +971 4 423 8888 | STAY@THEADDRESS.COM | VISIT WWW.THEADDRESS.COM

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Published and distributed monthly by Media Transasia India Ltd., under sub licence from Media Transasia Ltd. Hong Kong by permission of American Express Publishing Corporation, 1120 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10036, United States of America. Registered oces: Media Transasia India Ltd., Plot No. 323, Udyog Vihar, HSIIDC, Phase-4, Gurgaon-122016; Media Transasia Ltd. #1205-6, Hollywood Centre, 233 Hollywood Road, Central Hong Kong, Hong Kong. Tel: (852) 28153111; Fax: (852) 28511933. Editorial oce: Media Transasia India Ltd., Plot No. 323, Udyog Vihar, HSIIDC, Phase-4, Gurgaon-122016, Haryana; Tel: +91-124-4759500, fax: +91-124-4759550. Copyright Media Transasia India Ltd. All rights reserved throughout the world. Reproduction in any manner is prohibited. Printed and Published by Xavier Collaco on behalf of Media Transasia India Ltd. Printed at Thomson Press India Limited, 18/35 Delhi - Mathura Road, Faridabad, Haryana and Published at Media Transasia India Ltd., Plot No. 323, Udyog Vihar, HSIIDC, Phase-4, Gurgaon-122016. Editor: Payal Kohli. Travel+Leisure does not take the responsibility for returning unsolicited publication material. All disputes are subject to the exclusive jurisdiction of competent courts and forums in Haryana only. Opinions expressed in the articles are of the authors and do not necessarily reect those of the editors or publishers. While the editors do their utmost to verify information published they do not accept responsibility for its absolute accuracy. This edition is published by permission of AMERICAN EXPRESS PUBLISHING CORPORATION 1120 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10036, United States of America. Tel. +1 212 382 5600 Online: www.amexpub.com Reproduction in whole or in part without the consent of the copyright owner is prohibited. Media Transasia India Ltd. in respect of the published edition. Copyright queries to travelandleisure@mtil.biz ADVERTISING For your advertising enquiries please contact : adenquiries@mtil.biz SUBSCRIPTIONS To subscribe call Gurgaon: 0124-4759616-17, 09899414369, Fax: 0124-4759550; Mumbai: 022-42467777, Fax: 022-26053710; Bangalore: 080-22219578, Fax: 080-22243428; Chennai: Call or Fax: 044-28141816; Kolkata: Call or Fax: 033-22874298; E-mail: circulation@mtil.biz; Web: www.mediatransasiaindia.com.

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WorldMags.net Contributors
we inspire you make it happen

Beth Garrabrant
Photographer Costa Rica (Dive In). (page 74). you ll never forget... Standing on the Whales Tale sandbar while watching giant waves crash onto the shores of Playa Uvita. There wasnt another soul in sight. It was like being on the edge of a deserted island. worth a taste The fish tacos at Rancho Pacifico are savoury perfection. Try to get a corner table for the best view of the Whales Tale. costa rica requirement? You must relax! where the wild things are Howler monkeys and toucans are all around you, but photographing wildlife can be tricky without knowing where to look. Hotel staff members will likely know where and when theyre most visible.

Richard Alleman

Writer Costa Rica (Dive In)

Martha Camarillo
Photographer New Masters (page 80). while in flanders, you were most moved by... Ghent, Belgium. The people there are effortlessly dressed and full of life, and art and history lie around every corner. I ate at Belga Queen, where waitstaff wore Viktor & Rolfstyle apronseven that was inspiring! great new find Ra, a concept store in Antwerp, showcases Belgian fashion designers and has a terrific caf with a genius chef. unforgettable trip moment? Breakfast by candlelight in the beautiful dining room at Chambres dHtes Htel Verhaegen, in Ghent. I felt like I had time-travelled to another century. dream euro trip Helsinki, Finland, flies under the radar as far as design goes. I want to see its fashion scene.

Better Homes and Gardens has been a comprehensive guide for the smart & stylish Indian woman. Now your favourite magazine comes packed with more information than ever before on entertaining ideas, health, living, fashion, beauty, parenting and much more.
To subscribe call 91-9899414369/91-124-4759616-17 E-mail: circulation@mtil.biz. For online subscriptions Log on to www.mediatransasiaindia.com
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Howler monkeys and toucans are all around you, but photographing wildlife can be tricky without knowing where to look.
Beth Garrabrant

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F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F B E T H G A R R A B R A N T; A N T H O N Y N E W F I E L D ; C A M

Inspiring everything you want to be

hotel youd return to El Silencio Lodge & Spa is another world, but still less than a two hours drive from San Joss international airport. It could be an idyllic long-weekend getaway from the U.S. you werent prepared for... The roads! Especially those on the north and central Pacific coastpotholes, dust, occasional flooded patches. Four-wheeldrive vehicles are a must. favourite hotel interior? My living room at Florblanca was totally open to the terrace and jungle beyond, blurring the distinction between indoors and outdoors. dont leave costa rica without... Ziplining through and over the rain forest, if you dare.

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Mail

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Exotic Locales
ROHINI J H A , GU RGAON

Thanks to the pages of Travel + Leisure India & South Asia I have been introduced to the most amazing destinations and properties. A case in point was your feature on Belize [The Wild Heart of Belize] in the sixth anniversary issue.

Readying the terrace for dinner at Belcampo Lodge, in Belize. Opposite: Local produce sold at the farmers market in nearby Punta Gorda.

fancy dress pictures that I am tired of seeing. Nagas are much more than that and I can proudly say that you have shown a slice of real life from Nagaland. Thanks. AY ENL A AO , KOLK ATA Bon Appetit The Food Issue was a real treat for a foodie like me and I thoroughly enjoyed all the varied theme articles throughout your September issue. So engrossed was I in the content that I almost didnt notice that you had redesigned the magazine. It was when I saw the T+L Decoder story Our Denitive Guide to Buenos Aires that I realized something was different. The look-feel is crisp and the content, as usual is A-class. I specially enjoyed The Travellers Guide to Tea and the shopping tips in Jewels of Rajasthan. I also liked the way The Eat List has been packaged as you can easily pull it out and carry it with you when you travel. GAYATRI HUDA , MUMBAI

The Wild

Set within the vast rain forest between the Maya Mountains and the Caribbean Sea, a 12-suite lodge is taking agritourism to a thrilling new level. Farm-to-table, meet jungle-to-table. By Shane Mitchell Photographed by Tara Donne
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Heart of BELIZE

Keepsake Congratulations on turning six Travel + Leisure India & South Asia! I loved the cover of your anniversary issue as it was unusual and refreshingly different on the newsstand. As usual, the issue was packed with a lot of information that I have only managed to skim through, but I have kept the issue to read over the next few months, specially the Eat List, which will be extremely helpful for me as I travel domestically a lot for work and am always looking for new places to check out. I have one grouse though. I wish you would cover the

best pubs across the country as well, as many of us like to discover new watering holes, specially, on our travels. G . R . NINA N , BA NGA LOR E Poised Pictures I was pleasantly surprised to come across a fabulous showcase of Naga life [ The Land of the Nagas] in the pages of Travel + Leisure India & South Asia last month. The photographer seems to have captured beautifully both the old and the new that coexist in my home state. It is refreshing to see such a realistic portrayal rather than the tribals in

Shuteye Solutions I was so happy to come across the unusual piece on jet lag [ The Cure for Jet Lag] in the pages of your September issue amid all the lovely destination pieces. I am a seasoned long-haul traveller and so I read the piece with keen interest. My strategy is to sleep on the ight no matter what time of day or night I board. I never leave unnished work for a long ight and look upon that time as movie or snooze time. So no matter what time I arrive at my nal destination, I have some sleep under my belt. From reading the article, I realized that everyone has their own way of dealing with jet lag, so I thought Id share mine with T+Ls readers as well. DIGA MBER SINGH ,

PHOTO CREDIT

CH A NDIGAR H

Corrigendum: In the article Mauritius on a Plate the name Contance Le Prince Maurice appeared incorrectly. The error is regretted.

Tell T+L
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News. Finds. Opinions. Obsessions.

On OurWorldMags.net

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GREEN ACRES
Ilaria Venturini Fendi may be a scion of the Roman fashion dynasty known for its leather handbags and furs. But for her, luxury is I Casali del Pino, the organic farm she owns 30 minutes from Rome, where shes opening an agriturismo this fall. The cosy inns 19 rustic-chic rooms are furnished with wrought-iron beds, salvaged tiles, and under-oor geothermal heating. The eco ethic is nothing new for Fendi: her accessories company, Carmina Campuswhich is also run from the farmcreates totes out of upcycled materials (venetian blinds; mosquito nets). Theres a restaurant serving dishes such as lemon-ricotta ravioli with pine-nut pesto. And the pecorino cheese on the menu? Thats courtesy of Fendis own ock of Sardinian sheep. 39-06/3089-5688. $$ valerie waterhouse

Ilaria Venturini Fendi feels right at home on her organic farm near Rome.
T R A V E L+ L E I S U R E S E P T E M B E R 2 01 2

Photographed by Monika Her

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events

Come October, and the cultural calendar ignites across India. We bring you a round-up of the best dance performances, photography exhibitions and festivals to catch this season.
Photography In a unique sponsorship, Italian luxury brand Tods and photography gallery Tasveer present Maimouna Guerresis Inner Space (October 18-28; Italian Cultural Centre, 50-E, Chandragupta Marg, Delhi; tods.com; tasveerarts.com). Guerresis India-inspired works are marvels of craftsmanship. The exhibit will later travel to Bangalore, Kolkata, and Mumbai. Tasveer, this time in partnership with Swiss horologerie brand Vacheron Constantin celebrates Divine Moments by Raghu Rai (Mumbai, October 20-29; Bangalore, December 7-28; Ahmedabad, March 1-10, 2013; vacheron-constantin.com). Rais images document historical events, reveal the variety of the landscape and freeze private encounters. Dance Scotlands principal contemporary dance company Scottish Dance Theatre (October 18-November 4; scottishdancetheatre.com) will be touring through Chennai, Bangalore, Delhi and Kolkata to undertake performances and deliver workshops. The repertoire will feature DOG choreographed by Hofesh Shechter; Luxuria choreographed by Liv Lorent; and Drift choreographed by James Wiltonhighlighting a range of different approaches to dance.
globe comprising documentaries, shorts and feature lms. Look out for: Egyptian/Danish lmmakers Karim el-Hakim and Omar Shargawis 1/2 Revolution, a personal account from the frontlines of the Arab Spring in Tahrir Square; Guy Davidis Five Broken Cameras; and the world premiere of When Hari Got Married, a feature lm directed by Sarin and Sonam.

Fabulous Festivals

Clockwise from top: A Scottish Dance Theatre perfomance; works from Maimouna Guerresis Inner Space exhibit; at Jodhpur RIFF; Subodh Maskara and Nandita Das perform at The Old World Theatre Festival; at Delhi International Arts Festival.

film

MOVIES IN THE MOUNTAINS

McLeod Ganj is gearing up to host the rst Dharamshala International Film Festival (November 1-4; di.co.in; tickets available on bookmyshow.com). Conceptualized by acclaimed lmmakers Ritu Sarin and Tenzing Sonam and presented through their trust White Crane Arts & Media, the festival will showcase around 20 contemporary independent lms from across the

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C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F S C O T T I S H D A N C E T H E AT R E ; C O U R T E S Y O F D H A R A M S H A L A I N T E R N AT I O N A L F I L M F E S T I V A L 2 ; C O U R T E S Y O F J O D H P U R R I F F ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E O L D W O R L D T H E AT R E F E S T I V A L ; C O U R T E S Y O F D E L H I I N T E R N AT I O N A L A R T S F E S T I V A L ; C O U R T E S Y O F M A I M O U N A G U E R R E S I / TA S V E E R

Theatre The Old World Theatre Festival (October 12-21; Stein Auditorium, India Habitat Centre; Delhi; 91-11/2468-2001; habitatworld.com; tickets available on bookmyshow.com) is back for the 11th year. The stellar line-up opens with Mahesh Dattanis Where Did I Leave My Purdah, directed by Lilette Dubey. The highlights: The Bureaucrata comedy by Anubav Pal, directed by Rahul da Cunha; Nothing Like Lear, directed by Rajat Kapoor; and Nandita Das directorial stage debutBetween the Lines. Multi-discipline The 6th edition of the Delhi International Arts Festival (October 27-November 10; diaf.in) showcases dance, theatre, lms, cuisine, art, literature, poetry, folk music, western music, and more. With acts from across the world performing across 45 venues from theatres like Kamani Auditorium and Siri Fort to Select Citywalk mall and Blue Frogthe extravaganza will unite Delhis art and culture acionados. Music Also back for the sixth consecutive year the Jodhpur RIFF (October 26-30; jodhpurfolkfestival.org) celebrates folk music. Mehrangarh Fort makes the setting for performances from Australia, Colombia, Sri Lanka, Turkey and India of course. by samai singh

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hotels

Made in the Med

T+L U.S.s Laura Begley Bloom surveys new designstatement properties from Marseille to Majorca.
Wherever Aman goes, the style tribe slavishly follows. And just when you thought there were no more variations on the word aman, the trailblazing hotel company has opened Amanzoe (amanresorts.com; $$$$), in a remote area of Greeces Peloponnese peninsula. With reecting pools, soaring marble walls, and panoramic views, architect Ed Tuttles pared-down sanctuary strikes a balance between serenity and drama. + Another disciple of minimalism, Jean-Franois Bodin who created Pariss Cit de lArchitecture et du Patrimoinebrings his trademark restraint to Porto-Vecchio, the St.-Tropez of Corsica. At the waterfront La Plage Casadelmar (designhotels.com; $$$$), he has crafted 15 rooms out of volcanic rock and 300-year-old oaks. + On the Spanish island of Majorca, the Jumeirah Port Soller Hotel & Spa (jumeirah.com; $$$) is intended to stimulate the senses, from the approach through orange groves and the hand massages at check-in to the 120 rooms with oor-to-ceiling windows, most overlooking the sea. + Contrast that with the latest effort from Philippe Starck: Mama Shelter Marseille (mamashelter.com; $). Smack in the centre of the newly buzzy city, the hotel is loaded with in-your-face Starck whimsy graffitied chalkboard ceilings; pool toys over the bar. Love it? Hate it? Up to you, but we do like the rates, starting at USD 166. + Hitting a different note is the Monastero Santa Rosa (monasterosantarosa.com; $$$$), on Italys Amal Coast. Its the passion project of Bianca Sharma, who took over a converted 17th-century cliff-top monastery, lling the 20 rooms with antiques collected during her travels. The result is more handmade than designer-polished, but if it was good enough for the rst guests, Prince Albert II and Princess Charlene of Monaco, then its good enough for us.

The bar at Mama Shelter Marseille comes complete with foosball. The pool at La Plage Casadelmar, in Corsica.
CLOCK WISE FROM TOP: FR ANCIS AMIAND; COURTESY OF DESIGN HOTELS; COURTESY OF BRENDON ELLIOT

q& a

BRENDON ELLIOT

Brendon Elliot, V.P. sales & resort marketing, Venetian Macau Ltd. shares with T+L the details on Macaus most ambitious development, Sands Cotai Centralan integrated resort development that is poised to change the hospitality business in Macau. Plus, his penchant for travelling to oeat destinations.

Integrated Appeal Sands Cotai Central, an integrated resort on Macaus Cotai Strip is a hospitality project that encompasses the luxurious Conrad Macao, the ve-star Sheraton Macao and the accessible Holiday Inn Macao. Sands Cotai Central has put within reach a new level of entertainment, dining and shopping at various price points so more people can discover the Cotai Strip. Come December a bridge will connect the Venetian, the Four Seasons and Sands Cotai Central making it the worlds largest integrated city enabling guests from ve hotels to interact seamlesslybringing together 9,000 rooms, 600 luxury dutyfree stores, 70 food and beverage outlets, four casinos and endless entertainment. Hot Spots Over the last 20 years I have discovered and experienced over a 100 destinations for both business and leisure but my favourites are:

Scandinavia, in particular the west coast archipelago islands for their laid-back nature; North West Coast of Western Australia for its outback appeal; Hoi An, Vietnam for its intimacy and unspoilt charm; the secluded Reunion Island located in the Indian Ocean between Mauritius and Madagascar; and Namibia for its desert safaris. But I also love world-class cities like New York and Sydney for their energy. Favourite Airline As a former employee, Im partial to Virgin Atlantic. It represents innovation, empowerment and the exibility to use your creativity and personality. I also nd that Singapore Airlines is the most consistent airline. Top Business Lounge Virgin Atlantics Clubhouse in London Heathrow is funky and fresh and boasts of a trendy bar, world-class dining and a Cowshed Spa.

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c u lt u r e

With so many options on this seasons arts calendar, hows a traveller to choose? Here are four standouts.
Opera Milans fabled Teatro alla Scala devotes most of this season to titans Giuseppe Verdi and Richard Wagner, both of whom celebrate their bicentennials in 2013. Wagners Lohengrin kicks off the party in a new production starring tenor Jonas Kaufmann, who looks and sounds like a Wagnerian god. Dec. 727; teatroallascala.org. + Theatre Jessica Chastain, known for her Oscarnominated turn in The Help, comes to Broadway in the title role of The Heiress, adapted from Henry Jamess Washington Square. David Strathairn, Downton Abbeys Dan Stevens, and director Moiss Kaufman (I Am My Own Wife) round out the pedigreed production. Opens Nov. 1; theheiressonbroadway.com. + Art Impressionism and Fashion, a groundbreaking exhibition at the Muse dOrsay, in Paris, will consider the relationship between Manet, Degas, Caillebotte, and other painters and the then-emerging fashion industry, pairing Impressionist masterpieces with rarely exhibited nery of 19thcentury Parisians. Through Jan. 20; musee-orsay.fr. + Dance American Ballet Theatre star David Hallberg is also a premier danseur at Moscows Bolshoi Ballet. Its an intriguing partnership: the Russian company is legendary for its bravura style, while Hallberg is a paragon of classical restraint. See the results of the crosspollination this season, when Hallberg dances signature roles in Swan Lake and Jewels. Through Dec.; bolshoi.ru. LESLIE CAMHI , BILL ROSENFIELD ,
AND PETER WEBSTER

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THIS JUST IN
Considering butter chicken is the most popular dish on British Airways (ba.com) ights, it makes sense that Indian customer preference should dictate their in-ight menu. British Airways in collaboration with Oberoi Flight Services has refreshed their in-ight menu on routes from India making it more reective of Indian tastes and seasonal oerings. The revamped on-board menu features mouth-watering delights like salmon and crab meat parcel, pan seared prawns, kareli roganjosh and honey glazed ham.

JODHPURI FLAVOUR
With Royal Jodhpur Play Clan (Shop No. 4, Libra Towers, Hill Rd.; Bandra (West), Mumbai; 9122/2640-1675; theplayclan. com; Rs 345 upwards) pays an ode to the Rajasthani city this season. The design-oriented brand has collaborated with the Mehrangarh Museum Trust to give the Blue City Play Clanss quirky, signature 20 twist. Using inspirations tions from Jodhpurs royal al legacy, the Umaid Bhawan hawan Palace, the arts and crafts and of course the indigo, digo, azure, cobalt and lapis pis houses that give the city its name, they have ave created a range of funky unky tees for men, women and children, along with home products like coasters and coffee mugs. The signature

products will also be retailed at Umaid Bhawan Palace and the Mehrangarh Museum Shop in Jodhpur.

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T O P R I G H T: K R A S N O V A A L E X A N D R A / C O R B I S . B O T T O M : C O U R T E S Y O F P L AY C L A N

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quiz

Heart-stopping cab rides are universal, but the cars themselves? Not so much. See if you can pair these hacks Fedr with their hometowns. By Nina Fedrizzi
Match the taxi...

All Hail the Taxi

Run on CNG this three-wheeler is the quickest way to weave through traffic.

Hands off! Here, taxi doors open and shut automatically.

By law, these drivers must know s every street in town. e n

Night owls take note: cabs tack on a 50 percent tac midnight surcharge from midnigh to 6 a.m.

The definition of onomatopoeia? Tuk-tuk.

The line, Im walkin here! brought this towns cabs to a halt in 1969s Midnight Cowboy.

If youve ridden in this motorcycle-powered two-seater, mot dont tell Uncle Sam.

A move toward hybrid taxis is increasing this citys odds of becoming the greenest in the world by 2020.

Travelling a short distance? You can share a taxi here. ling

...to the city

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Mumbai B. Havana C. New York City D. Tokyo E. Bangkok F. London G. Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia H. Delhi I. Vancouver
A.
1. H 2. D 3. F 4. G 5. E 6. C 7. B 8. I 9. A

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4 : J U L I A N E A L E S /A L A M Y I N D I A P I C T U R E ; 8 : R O N B U S K I R K /A L A M Y I N D I A P I C T U R E ; 9 : R E I N H A R D K U N G E L / D P A / C O R B I S

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5

Going Brogue
1 Tricolour wing tip, USD 750, Robert Clergerie. 2 Patent-leather brogue with rubber sole, USD 435, AGL. 3 Leather and calf-hair wing tip, USD 660, Fratelli Rossetti. 4 Two-tone goat-leather oxford, USD 560, Strenesse Gabriele Strehle. 5 Polished-leather shoe, USD 790, Derek Lam. 6 Monochrome leather oxford, USD 405, Longchamp.

The classic oxford is the womens shoe of the momentchic, timeless, and sturdy enough for the long haul.

3 2

1
FA S H I O N M A R K E T E D I TO R : J E S S I E B A N DY

Photographed by Levi Brown Fashion Director: Mimi Lombardo 24

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street st yle

Whats happening in the Lone Star States capital of cool? Just ask the locals. By Jessie Bandy

Austin, Texas

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1 Callie Hernandez Assistant manager, Maya Star boutique The Woodland restaurant (1716 S. Congress Ave.; woodlandaustin.com; $$) is like my second home. I always get the stued tomato with Asiago cream sauce. 2 Nils Juul-Hansen Producer-director On hot evenings, take a dip in Barton Springs (2201 Barton Springs Rd.), a natural limestone pool that holds steady at a cool 20 degrees Celsius. Free swim, from 9 to 10 p.m., is particularly fun.

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3 Kiah Denson Artist Shop at Schatzelein (1713 S. First St.; schatzeleinaustin. com) for vintage trinkets and pieces from regional artisans. Theres something for everyone, at every price point. 4 Joshua Bingaman Founder, Progress Coee Im a sucker for the new Easy Tiger (709 E. Sixth St.; easytigeraustin.com), a bakery and beer garden tucked away in downtown. The pretzels are awesome!

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5 Ed Hughey and Kerri Keaton Hughey Founders, Wellgro Co. Catch a movie at Violet Crown (434 W. Second St.; violetcrowncinema. com), an art-house theatre with reserved seats and a full-service caf. 6 Shannon Hollis Co-owner, Method Hair salon The mangohabanero margarita at Takoba (1411 E. Seventh St.; takobarestaurant. com; $$) is a mustsweet, sour, and spicy. Perfection.

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Photographed by Buff Strickland

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t r av e l u n i f o r m

Linda Fargo
The woman who gives luxury goods department store Bergdorf Goodman its distinctive flair shares her on-the-road routine.
If I dont look right, then I just dont feel right, says Linda Fargo, senior vice president of womens fashion, store design, and presentation at New York Citys iconic department store. Which is why she packs more than she needs for her jaunts to European runway shows and vacations on the Italian Riviera. One tip: she packs clothes on hangers in plastic dry-cleaning bags inside her large T. Anthony case. Almost nothing gets wrinkled, she swears. Her go-to ensemble includes J Brand Maverick skinny jeans (USD 268), a black stretch-wool blazer from the Row (USD 1,150), and an extraroomy pursethe one shes holding is by VBH (USD 3,750). And contrary to what you might expect, Fargo rarely comes home with personal acquisitions. As she puts it, Im so shopped out, I dont really buy a lot. RACHEL FELDER

I love leopard. Its a bit of a uniform for me. This Chlo coat is great, she says.

Fargo packs T. Anthony luggage (from USD 695), checking one bag and carrying the other on board.

Inside this Goyard tote (designed for Bergdorfs 111th anniversary) Fargo carries her essentials: red lipstick from YSL, Natura Biss eye cream, and a bar from La Maison du Chocolat.

Fargo skips heels, opting for Roger Vivier booties (USD 995), which she can get in and out of quickly.

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T O P : A D A M F R I E D B E R G ; H A I R & M A K E U P : D A W N D E S A N T I S U S I N G L A R O C H E P O S AY/A R T D E P A R T M E N T

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The vegetarian thali at Southern Spice at Taj Coromandel, in Chennai. Le : The restaurant's plush interiors.

food

Chennais favourite south Indian restaurant, Southern Spice is back for an encore. A treasure trove of traditional recipes are served up in a lavish setting. By Roopa Pai
hile tales of the orgiastic gastronomic excesses of the nawabs of Awadh and the maharanas of Rajputana are legion, and much is made of the rened tastes and avours of the Mughal kitchen, little is known of the food habits of the more austere kings and queens of the southern Indian peninsula. In its newest avatar, unveiled less than six months ago, the iconic Southern Spice restaurant at Chennais Taj Coromandel attempts to change all that. Not quite by bringing you historically

Flavours of the Royal South

authentic royal food, but by making you feel like a royal when you dine with them. Consider the setting. Silverleaf-clad pillars rise out of grey granite pedestals around the perimeter of the main restaurant space, creating a parikrama (circumambulation) path reminiscent of those in every south Indian temple. Highly carved wooden panels blanket the ceiling and the walls, punctuated by vivid murals depicting royal scenes, recreated from their originals in various palaces across the south. Tables are set with specially designed silver- and goldplated tableware. In place of chandeliers, real res burn in bronze wall sconces. Its all a bit over-the-topa glorious, extravagant palace-temple mash-up, but there is no denying that it succeeds in transporting you back to a more decadentand more honest time, when Indian design sense was not dictated or judged by western thought and opinion. The food is another revelation. Again, it is honest foodthe recipes sourced originally from the homes of local people across the four southern states, and then painstakingly worked on to polish them into gourmet shape, both in terms of execution and presentation. While old Southern Spice favourites like Allepey sh curry and kori gassi still make the cut, there is a fair bit of experimentation going on, with dishes like asparagus

Kayar katti yerachi kola urnudai (fennel avoured lamb meat dumplings wrapped with banana bre)a speciality from Thanjavur is a must-try.
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paruppu usli (asparagus with lentils), scallop pepper stew, and chocolate puranam mousse (chocolate mousse lled with a coconut, lentil and jaggery mix) also featuring on the menu. In deference to Chennais coastal location, specialty seafoodlobster, soft-shelled crabs, calamarimake bravura appearances, and there is even a seafood thali on offer. Other notablesa rasam menu (ve different rasams, two of them non-vegetarian), food-wine pairings, and the many-course sadhyaa traditional pure vegetarian Brahmin mealserved ritualistically on banana leaves, only in one of the three private dining rooms. Southern Spice, Taj Coromandel, 37, Mahatma Gandhi Rd., Nungambakkam, Chennai; 91-44/6600-2827; tajhotels.com; meal for two Rs 4,000.

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PROMOTION

An Executive Haven
Room provides its 30 guests with audio-visual equipment, individual table mounted microphones, plug and play electronic platforms for laptops and other gadgets along with Wi-Fi broadband. The third oor of the hotel has the Meeting Room which can accommodate 18 members. The business centre is on the lobby level and is equipped with all the necessary facilities to support your meetings. From preparations for your corporate presentations to sending out bouquet to your guests, the Business Centre will ensure that you remain stress-free. Its not just these world-class amenities that make MAYFAIR Convention a hotel you would like to come back to again and again. The property also has a large base kitchen and two pantries to cater to in-house business executives as well as the banquet requirements. A 24-hour restaurant-cum-bar on the third oor keeps guests satiated. A scrumptious breakfast is served between 7.30 a.m. to 10 a.m. The delectable lunch keeps you going through the day, while the lavish dinner buffet is the perfect way to end a long day. Just a 15 minute drive from the Biju Patnaik domestic airport, the property is easily accessible. Situated in the heart of the city, the Bhubaneswar railway station is a mere eight kilometres away making MAYFAIR Convention incredibly easy to reach. Each of these factors along with MAYFAIRs warm and efcient team ensures your stay becomes a cherished memory.

nother world-class property by the MAYFAIR group, the MAYFAIR Convention in Bhubaneswar is the epitome of comfort and class. The perfect corporate solution, this high-end property offers you a wide range of state-of-the-art facilities to meet your every need. Whether it is a board meeting or a corporate gettogether, a conference or a social functionMAYFAIR Convention is the ideal venue for you to play the amiable host. Your guests will reside in one of the 20 elegantly designed rooms for a luxurious experience. The spacious rooms come with a stylish work desk, mini-bar, DVD player and Wi-Fi connectivity among other standard amenities. Dazzling with chandeliers and LED lighting, the Crystal Room, adds glamour to any function. Flexible stage arrangements, a seating capacity of over 600 people and drop down screens make this chic banquet perfect for any kind of meeting. Located on the rst oor of the hotel, the Central Hall, with its contemporary dcor and a capacity of around 1100 guests, is the largest banquet in eastern India. This elaborate venue with an ornate high ceiling, LED lighting arrangement, well decorated walls interspersed with modern paintings, carvings and artefacts is idyllic for formal corporate meetings, functions in the MICE segment, large professional assemblies or social gatherings. Another important feature is the Board Room, which ts perfectly with those brainstorming sessions. The Board

MAYFAIR Convention, 8-B, Jaydev Vihar, Bhubaneswar, Odisha - 751 013, India. Phone: +91 674 2360214/15 Fax: +91 674 2360 136 WorldMags.net www.mayfairhotels.com. Email: convention@mayfairhotels.com

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t+l p i c ks

Opening Statements
Spectacular art and design share the spotlight at these new additions to the culture map.

amsterdam Stedelijk Museum A thorough renovation and expansion, unveiled this September, shows o the Stedelijks singular modern and postwar art as well as its renowned design collection. A highlight: Gerrit Rietvelds 1926 Harrenstein Bedroom, as perfectly balanced as a Mondrian painting. stedelijk.nl.

cleveland Museum of Contemporary Art This month, the 44-year-old MOCA Cleveland moves from a converted Sears store to a striking black-steel hexagon designed by AngloPersian architect Farshid Moussavi. It opens with a show by a roster of 16 international artists. mocacleveland.org.

oslo Astrup Fearnley Museet By night, the sailshaped glass roof of this new complex, designed by Renzo Piano, glows like a magic lantern. By day, it illuminates a private collection of contemporary art, with works by Cai Guo-Qiang, Cindy Sherman, and Olafur Eliasson. afmuseet.no.

philadelphia Barnes Foundation With its stunning new campus downtown, the Barnesknown for shaking up the way art is understood with its provocative arrangements of Renoirs and Matisses next to metal hinges and hooksis helping visitors see Phillys impressive arts scene in a new light. barnesfoundation.org.

rio de janeiro Museu de Arte do Rio de Janeiro A centrepiece in the renewal of the once rundown historic port, MAR will occupy a Neoclassical palazzo, housing galleries showing Brazilian and international art. It opens this fall. museudeartedorio.org. br.raul barreneche and leslie camhi

The Barnes Foundation, in Philadelphia, designed by Tod Williams Billie Tsien Architects.

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C O U R T E S Y O F T H E B A R N E S F O U N D AT I O N

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TURNING INDIA
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Philippines Thailand WorldMags.net

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HOTELS DESIGNED TO SAY YES! radissonblu.com

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Clockwise from left: A treatment room at Six Senses Spa at Jaypee Golf & Spa Resort, Greater NOIDA; signature Six Senses amenities; the dedicated ladies lap pool.

s pa s

Two heavyweight Asian spa brands have recently unveiled their rejuvenating outposts in the Delhi-NCR region. T+L investigates. By Samai Singh

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he spa industry in DelhiNCR has received a major boost with the debut of two of Asias leading spa proponentsThailandbased Six Senses Spa and Bali-based Mandara Spa. Though vastly different in scale these pampering zones offer their guests the best of Asian and world therapies and are revolutionizing the citys wellness landscape.

The massive Six Senses Spa at Jaypee Greens Golf & Spa Resort, Greater NOIDA is spread over 90,000 square feet. Im greeted with a warm namaste from the staff as I enter. The spas Ayurvedic
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SIX SENSES SPA

expert, Dr. Avinash R. Tiwari graciously offers to show me around. Dr. Tiwari who recently returned to India after a stint in the Maldives informs me that the spa is built on the principles of an ancient Indian house with a courtyard and multiple water bodies (four of which can be used). The building is a testament to Six Senses legendary philosophy of sustainabilityfrom the materials used, the distinctly local design features, to the organic garden that is the source of herbs, fruits and owers. Exploring the spa I discover the basement (active oor) is dedicated to the tness centre; yoga studio and an aerobics pool. The ground oor is home to the reception; consultation and

treatments rooms; lap pools, specialist rooms for Ayurveda, Thai, Colonic Hydrotherapy, Watsu; and a retail section that stocks Six Senses Signature skincare range; Amala-organic skincare range from Germany; and Subtle Energies-aromatherapy range from Australia, while the rst oor includes male and female hammams; a meditation cave; more treatment rooms; golfers treatment areas and a salon. The Indian spa industry is slowly coming of age and we felt this was the right time to make our rst foray. The Jaypee Greens Golf & Spa Resort was an obvious choice for multiple reasonsthe facility, the enormous space, the architecture, and the

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C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: G U L S H A N S A C H D E V A / S I X S E N S E S S P A 2 ; C O U R T E S Y O F S I X S E N S E S S P A

Havens of Tranquillity

The superb views on the drive from the Yorkshire moors to the Yorkshire Dales. Below: The stunning setting of the Harddraw Falls.

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proximity to Delhi, says Tracey Poole, spa director. Our aim is to create a wellness destination oasis for city dwellers, she adds. In keeping with their holistic mantra, the spa will soon unveil a Raw Food Restaurant. Raw food doesnt literally mean uncooked instead food is cooked at its optimum temperature of 42-46 degrees Celsius to obtain maximum benets. The hotels restaurant menus will also feature spa cuisine which will be indicated by the Six Senses logo, the caloric and nutrient value, says Poole. The extensive spa menu has over 140 treatments in 15 categories ranging from Locally Inspired therapies like Indian Secrets (Rs 5,900/80 minutes) to Massage Therapies like Six Senses Signature Massage (Rs 4,320/50 minutes) and Ayurveda for which Dr. Tiwari recommends a minimum seven-day retreat. Unable to decide, I turn to Poole who suggests I try the Sensory Spa Journey (Rs 5,900/80 minutes) that is performed by two therapists. My rst therapist, Mary escorts me to a cavernous treatment area where my second therapist Lisa is waiting. The room is aglow with ickering candles and my ritual begins with a foot-bath. Lisa and Mary use a body brush to stimulate my skin before commencing the non-traditional aromatherapy massage that uses long strokes and signature blends. I quickly become accustomed to their synchronized movements and nd myself drifting off. A cleansing facial ritual and a stress-relieving scalp massage are also part of the sessionsince I have a dull headache, this suits me. And before I know it my 80 minutes of bliss are up. Surajpur Kasna Rd., Greater NOIDA; 91-20/674-3440;jaypeehotels.com.

The Mandara Spa brand honours the diversity of the culture it is immersed in but stays true to its Balinese traditions
the Mandara brand is our training, our authentic techniques and our traditions, says Gunjan Chawla, spa manager. The spa has ve treatment areas including a double spa suite and a manicure and pedicure room. Each room is named after a owerjasmine, rose, lotus, orchid and lilythe name is also translated in Sanskrit on the doors nameplate. As I enter the spa two stone elephants welcome me to the relaxation area. Currently the spa offers the Mandara menu, a combination of unique packages like Ultimate Indulgence (155 minutes/ Rs 11,000) and body and face treatments with signature Mandara products. We use our in-house aromatherapy massage oil blends for our treatments and we even prepare natural ingredients like the coconut scrub, and items for the Pure Nature Facial in our spa kitchen, adds Chawla. Towards the end of the year, the spa will feature award-winning therapies from the leading luxury British spa and skincare brand, Elmis. The spa is renowned for their signature Mandara Massage (Rs 5,600/50 minutes) where two therapists working in sync combine ve massage styles Japanese shiatsu, Thai, Hawaiian Lomi Lomi, Swedish and Balinese and the traditional Balinese Massage

F R O M TO P : C O U R T E S Y O F M A N DA R A S PA / P U L L M A N G U R G A O N C E N T R A L PA R K ; G U L S H A N S A C H D E VA /S I X S E N S E S S PA

From top: Signature spa ingredients at Mandara Spa at Pullman Gurgaon Central Park; preparing for a therapy at Six Senses Spa.

Pullman Gurgaon Central Park is home to the citys rst Mandara Spa. The wellness chain that originated in Bali, boasts of a presence that spans the globefrom the Bahamas to Fijithey also operate spas aboard cruise liners. The brand honours the diversity of the culture it is immersed in but stays true to its Balinese traditions. The USP of

MANDARA SPA

(Rs 3,500/50 minutes), instead I decide to opt for the Warm Stone Massage (Rs 3,800/50 minutes) where the healing power of touch combines with the energy of the earth. After sipping on ginger tea, my therapist, Tenzen, whisks me away to a treatment room. Post a oral foot-bath where I choose to go with lavender oil, Im ready to begin. The rst touch of the rocks on my skin feels unusual. Smooth, at basalt rocks are heated and used to glide over my body in long owing strokes and then placed on energy points to encourage healing. As Tenzen gets going I ease into the rhythm and the warmth courses through my body. My soothing experience ends with a steam followed by a shower using the invigorating Roger & Gallet Bois d Orange bath amenities. M.G. Rd., Sector 26, Delhi-Gurgaon Border, Gurgaon; 91-124/499-2049; pullmangurgaon.in
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The superb views on the drive from the Yorkshire Moors to the Yorkshire Dales, in England. Below: The stunning setting of the Harddraw Falls.

drive

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On a leisurely four-day road expedition in an ultra-luxurious car Rishad Saam Mehta explores the verdant Yorkshire countryside, samples some traditional fare and comes away charmed.
Maserati GranTurismo at my disposal for four days, it was the perfect reason to heed her advice.

Exploring Yorkshire

he Boeing 777s that British Airways ies on their Mumbai-London route are very silent aircrafts. The engine noise is so low that a few hours into the ight, when the cabin lighting is at its dimmest and the passengers are comfortably asleep, even the subtlest of snores waft through the cabin. So all conversations are conducted in whispers. It was at this time, that one of the cabin attendants with whom I had struck up a conversation when I had gone to grab a snack in the galley, had whispered to me, that if I wanted to see story-book England, I just had to head towards Yorkshire. Since I had a
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London to Ampleforth, Yorkshire Moors (370 kilometres)

I head north from London on a six-hour drive that starts off the four-lane M1motorway and ends on roads that are barely four metres wide. The Carr House Farm, in the village of Ampleforth in the Yorkshire Moorsmy rst bed and breakfastsits pretty on rolling farmland with ne views. Anna Lupton, the lady of the house bustles out to meet me followed by her solitary cat who is perpetually wary of the 23 hunting

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dogs Jack, Annas husband, has. She serves me a hot cup of Yorkshire teaa blend of Assam and Ceylon leavesand some Yorkshire bracka very yummy traditional tea loaf. Run your eyes over the recipe and amidst our, sugar and eggs youll come across a large cup of concentrated tea and half a cup of whisky or rum. Little doubt then, the brack fortied me to set off exploring the surroundings. A kilometre down the road by the village of Wass is the sprawling ruin of the Byland Abbey. Walking amongst the remnants still gives a sense of the grandeur of its heyday.

Pickering to Goathland (50 minutes by rail)

The next morning I drive the 29 kilometres from Ampleforth to Pickering to board an old-fashioned train and am soon chugging through some stunning scenery. The vintage steam engines on this line are operated by the North Yorkshire Moors Railway. They stop at quaint villages like Levisham, Goathland and Grosmont from where there are pretty walks across the Moors. I hop off at Goathland the station that played Hogsmeade Station in the Harry Potter moviesand set off on the three kilometre walk to Beck Hole, a quaint village with a tiny pub called Birch Hall Inn where time has stood still but the food is freshly cooked and the Black Sheep ale is drawn straight from the cask. Driving back I have the famous afternoon tea at the Black Swans Tearoom in Helmsley en route to Ampleforth. For the British, afternoon tea isnt just a beverageits an indulgent spread of uffy sandwiches, creamy pastries, and freshly baked scones, clotted cream and homemade jam.

From top: Afternoon cream tea at the Black Swan in Helmsley; little villages en route like Ramsgill are stonehouse and green-lawn affairs; Goathland Station that played Hogsmeade Station in the Harry Potter movies.

Ampleforth to Hawes (129 kilometres along B roads)

The next morning I bid the Lupton farm and the Moors goodbye and head west to the Yorkshire Dales. The GPS

Yorkshire, England
HAWES

A66

A172

A1 A19

NORTH YORK MOORS NATIONAL PARK

A1M

STAY Carr House Farm Ampleforth, York, North Yorkshire; 44-1347/868-526; carrhousefarm.co.uk; from USD 64 per person for bed and breakfast. Thorney Mire Barn Hawes, Wensleydale; 44-1969/666-122; thorneymirebarn.co.uk; from USD 88 per person for bed and breakfast. EAT White Swan Pub You should denitely eat a meal here while in Ampleforth. East End, Ampleforth; 44-1439/788-239; thewhiteswan-ampleforth.co.uk. The Black Swan Hotel The aernoon tea at Black Swan in Helmsley is an absolute must. Market Place, Helmsley; 44-1439/ 770-466; blackswanhelmsley.co.uk. Old Hill Inn While at Hawes visit this Ingelton inn for a meal. Chapel-le-Dale, Ingleton; 44-1524/241256; oldhillinn.co.uk. For more accommodation options and to see what all you can do and experience in Yorkshire visit yorkshire.com.
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MASHAM

A170

YORKSHIRE DALES NATIONAL PARK

A61

ALPMEFORTH

A19

GRASSINGTON

MAP NOT IN SCALE

T+L Guide
GETTING THERE British Airways oers two ights a day from both Delhi and Mumbai to London Heathrow. Visas are mandatory to visit the U.K. and the process can take up to a month. You can hire a car from London or take the train from Kings Cross Station to York.

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From top: Traffic on an English B road; blackcurrant jam for sale at the Hawes Farmers Market, held every Tuesday.

suggests I drive on the A170, A1 and A684all wide highways. The previous evening I had met Cuthbert Riddleton, a local farmer, who had parked his muddied old Land Rover next to my Maserati in the parking lot of the White Swan pub and had pronounced, with enough solemnity to make the local vicar sound frivolous, Thus meet beauty and the beast, before planting himself on his favourite stool at the bar. It was he who suggested that I ignore the GPS and wrote down a route for me on a paper napkin. Laddie he said between slow and savoury sips of his Theakston Grouse Beater ale, drive your beast along this route to Hawes and you will bless me to kingdom come. I cursed him a little then for implying that his battered Land Rover was the beauty of the parking lot but I am also every grateful to him. The drive through the villages of Masham, Lofthouse, Ramsgill, Pateley Bridge, Hebdon, Grassington and Kettlewell has me beaming with delight. I drive along classic British B roads hemmed by craggy stonewalls and curvaceous country lanes and through some of the most striking scenery in England. To top it all its a lovely sunny day.

My rst stop in the Yorkshire Dales is at the Aysgarth Falls where the famous stick ght in the popular movie Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves was lmed. Later that day I trek to the Harddraw Falls, which have a very dramatic setting. Its here that Maid Marian coyly looks on as Robin Hood frolics in the pool, at the base of the falls. North of the Falls is the Buttertubs Pass, again fantastic to drive through with soul-satisfying views at every turn. The name comes from the fact that natural, narrow and deep pits are a geographical feature here and in the past (before refrigeration) farmers wives would store butter tubs in the deep and cool pits. I spend the next day exploring Hawes which had a street market, visiting the Wensleydale cheese factory and going on a splendid walk across the Dales from Hawes to the Appersett Viaduct. As I was driving back to London after my all-too-short trip to Yorkshire. I realised that the BA ight attendant had been right; this indeed was the England of the story books because often during those four days my mind went back to the pages of the Enid Blyton books that kept me steadfast company during my childhood.

38

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THE MAGICAL DESERT EXTRAVAGANZA

An amalgamation of the rich culture and tradition of Gujarat, the Rann Utsav (December 15th, 2012 to January 31st, 2013) celebrates the vibrant colours of Kutch. This ecologically and ethnically diverse land comes to life each winter with the breathtaking salt desert in the background. This annual month-long carnival organized at various locations within Kutch takes you on a tour of the natural grandeur of the state.

RANN UTSAV

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A COLOURFUL MIX One of Indias largest districts, Kutch, surrounded by the Arabian Sea is a Pandoras box of crafts and traditions. Its rich history dating from the Harappan civilization that thrived at Dholavira to the Jadeja Rajputs whose rule

I N D I A P I C T U R E /A L A M Y 2

he festival provides one with a chance to experience Kutch at it best with a plethora of activities. You can be enchanted by the folk dance performances or sit back and enjoy the music, go for a camel safari or shop to your hearts content at the handicraft market. An entire tented village is set up with both a/c and non-a/c tents to choose from.

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PROMOTION

F R O M T O P L E F T: I N D I A P I C T U R E ; I N D I A P I C T U R E /A L A M Y 2

endowed the state with forts, palaces, temples and other beautiful monuments, make Kutch a historians delight. Its diverse history and culture can be visited during the carnival that takes you around the grand desert. The arid grasslands of the Banni host the majestic display of the traditional architecture of Kutch. A visit to this area will provide you with the authentic taste of Kutchi cuisine. Along with a magnicent display of talent on this platform, breathtaking folk dance performances are also organized under the silver moonlight. The fairs held on the banks of the lakes bring out the zeal and uniqueness of the people celebrating the festival. A blend of craftsmanship, enthusiasm, and hospitality dene the Rann Utsav to the fullest. HANDICRAFTSA WANDERERS DELIGHT The land of excellent craftsmanship and intricate handicrafts, Kutch is full of beautiful surprises. Best described as the cradle of craftsmanship, various styles of weaving, block-printing, bandhini tie and dye, Roganpainting, embroidery, pottery, wood-carving, metalcrafts, and shell-work can be found here. The craft has been carried down from generation to generation and this traditional way of creating masterpieces makes each item stand out. Embroidered items, patchwork, terracotta, pen knives and nut crackers form some of the main handicrafts of the district.

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The women of this region create some of the most beautiful items with their mirrored embroidery. Traditionally created by the women for themselves and their families during festivals, these are now a craze all over. Hand-printed textiles are also famous here. The Ajrakh prints, Batik prints and Rogan painting are among the most sought-after prints. Another very important feature from this district is wood-carving. The Harijan people living in Dumaro and Ludia carve various utensils out of wood. Teak wood and the locally available bahuv wood are usually used to prepare these artefacts. The endless talent of the people of Kutch is again showcased through their beautiful paintings. Rabari and Harijan women create wonderful pieces in their homes. The mud walls of their houses are adorned with designs using a clay mixture. Mor (peacock) popat (parrot) anghadi (ngers) vinjno (fan) are some of the common designs. Known for its superior silverwork, you can take home intricately carved jewellery as a memento of this picturesque place and its warm people. Penknives and nutcrackers are other loved souvenirs. The artisans that once made the swords for the royals now produce these penknives making them all the more special. The cowherds of Kutch used bells to call their ocks from far. These bells had a unique sound due to the individual tuning of each bell. These bells with a wooden tongue are a big rage among collectors.

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Another incredible art form is that of making dolls and idols from seashells. The shells are collected and joined together to form gures of birds and animals, agarbati stands and idols of Gods and Goddesses. KUTCHS MYRIAD ATTRACTIONSPLACES TO VISIT A land of so many vast offerings, Kutch offers you a chance to experience diverse surroundings. A visit to Kalo Dungar often referred to as the Black Hill is a must while youre in Kutch. The highest point in the district, the top of the Black Hill offers you a birds-eye view of the entire desert. The incredible vistas are sure to leave you awestruck. As you look over the horizon, the desert and sky merge and become indistinguishable. The hill is the site of the 400-year-old temple of Dattatreya. The Narayan Sarovar, one of the ve holy lakes of Hinduism, is another must-visit site. At almost the westernmost point of land in India, it is sure to leave you mesmerized with its spiritual signicance. The Vijay Vilas Palace in the seaside city of Mandvi, enchants with its acres of green forest and beautiful architecture. The summer palace of maharao Vijay Singhji, though small in size is tastefully done with its own wooden elevator. The beach at Mandvi has a number of activities such as parasailing, jet-skiing and speedboats to keep you busy. You can also nd various food outlets, sheds and seating facilities on slightly higher ground. The Aina Mahal or the Palace of Mirrors in the Bhuj Fort built by Rao Lakhpatji in the 18th century is a sight to behold. Now a museum, it houses the Lunar Clock, an ivory door and important ancient documents.

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F R O M T O P : I N D I A P I C T U R E ; J O H N N O B L E / G E T T Y I M A G E S ; I N D I A P I C T U R E /A L A M Y

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Sr. Package Dates

PROMOTION

RANN UTSAV 2012-13 PACKAGE DATES AND RATES

AC Tent Per Person Rs. Non AC Tent Per Person Rs.

1.

3 Nights Package 15th Dec to 18th Dec, 2012 & 29th Dec, 2012 To 1st Jan 2013

12,500/-

10,500/-

2. 2 Nights Package In Dec. 2012: 19th, 22nd & 25th in Jan. 2013: 2nd, 5th,8th,11th, 17th, 20th, 23rd, 26th, 29th 3. One Night Package 4. Extra Person (With Extra Mattress) Per Day

9500/-

7500/-

4900/2000/-

3900/1500/-

1. Package is ex-Bhuj, inclusive of breakfast, tea, lunch and dinner and one optional tour for two nights/three nights package only. 2. Submit two passport size photos with name written behind it and copy of photo ID of all members at the time of booking with full payment.

THREE NIGHTS PACKAGE

Day Day 01 Time Particulars Till 12.00 hrs Arrival at Bhuj by Air/Rail & Road and transfer to Dhordo 15.30 hrs Arrival at Dhordo, Check-in at Tent Village & lunch Visit Hodko village for handicraft and witness sunset at White Rann Dinner and night halt at Tent Village Day 02 08.30 hrs After breakfast departure for Indo-Pak Border Tour Lunch and evening tea on route Dinner and night halt at Tent Village Day 03 08.30 hrs After breakfast departure for one of the optional tours 1. Mandvi Beach Tour 2. Narayan Sarovar Tour Lunch and evening tea on route Dinner and night halt at Tent Village Day 04 08.30 hrs After breakfast check out and departure for Bhuj via visit of Khavda, Black Hills, Ludiya village 14.00 hrs Arrival at Bhuj

Locally known as Kotada (meaning large fort), Dholavira, spread over 100 hectares of semi-arid land, is one of the two remarkable excavations of the Indus Valley Civilization. Home to probably the worlds earliest signboards10 large stone inscriptions, carved in Indus Valley script, were found here, along with other artefacts including gold and copper ornaments, animal gurines, seals, beads, terracotta urns, sh hooks, and vessels that tell tales of trade with places as far away as Mesopotamia. It also has one of the worlds earliest water conservation systems ever excavated. Once here you can even spot the chinkara, nilgai (blue bull, the largest antelope in Asia), amingos and other birds. Other places to visit are the Chhari Dhandh and Kutch Bustard Sanctuary. Chhari Dhandh, a paradise for birdlovers and ornithologists, has over 370 species of birds being famous for its raports, water y, waders and larks. The Kutch Bustard Sanctuary, stretching over an area of two square kilometres in the Abdusa Taluka near Nalia in Kutch is home to the Great Indian Bustard bird among various other species. Kutchs varied offerings is what makes this white desert so mesmerizing and unique. For a complete experience of the salt desert, Gujarat Tourism organizes the Rann Utsav each year to welcome visitors into a land that is a kaleidoscope of centuriesold traditions, picturesque landscapes and ancient monuments. Visit Kutch at its exotic best between December 15th, 2012 and January 31st, 2013. Go for camel safaris and interact with the locals, visit rural India or dance to the folk songs; Rann Utsav gives you the chance to experience life in the middle of a salt desert.

TWO NIGHTS PACKAGE

Day Day 01 Time Particulars Till 12.00 hrs Arrival at Bhuj by Air/Rail & Road and transfer to Dhordo 15.30 hrs Arrival at Dhordo, Check-in at Tent Village & lunch Visit Hodko village for handicraft and witness sunset at White Rann Dinner and night halt at Tent Village After breakfast departure for Indo-Pak Border Tour or Mandvi Beach Tour Lunch and evening tea on route Dinner and night halt at Tent Village After breakfast check-out and departure for Bhuj via visit of Khavda, Black Hills, Ludiya village Arrival at Bhuj

Day 02 08.30 hrs

FROM TOP: INDIAPICTURE; AFP

Day 04 08.30 hrs

14.00

Toll Free No: 1-800/233-7951 Website: www.gujarattourism.com E-mail: WorldMags.net marketing@gujarattourism.com

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A After the resounding success of our rst-edition of the Indias Best Awards la last year, Travel + Leisure India & South Asias asks you, our discerning r readers, to cast your votes for the top hotels, resorts, spas, destinations, a airlines, cruise lines, and travel companies. Send in entries for this years fa favourites by 30th November 2012, and you could win free airline tickets!

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Trip Doctor

your travel dilemmas solved

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DEALS

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by Tom Samiljan Tech Correspondent

Three for the Road

T+L PICKS

I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y L E I F P A R S O N S . R I G H T, F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F Z O M M ; C O U R T E S Y O F S N O W L I Z A R D ; C O U R T E S Y O F 4 i i i I N N O V AT I O N

Your Next-Gen Hotel Room

When it comes to reliable, easy-to-use tech amenities, hotels have lagged confoundingly behind what most travellers have at home or on their smart phones or tablets. Even at many so-called state-of-the-art properties guests wrestle with inscrutable room controls, ornery A/V setups, and awkward communications systems. Thankfully, some hotels are now stepping up their tech gamefor real. Whats Here Now These days, any property worth its room rate offers free Wi-Fi. But too often its exceedingly sloooow. Solution: many hotels (including the Radisson in San Diego and the Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo) are rolling out 100 Mbps Internet service, which is fast enough to download an album in three seconds. The Four Seasons Los Angeles and Shangri-La Toronto are two of nearly 50 hotels providing in-room iPads powered by Intelitys pioneering ICE Touch technology. The intuitive interface lets you order room service, schedule wake-up calls, and book spa appointments. Best of all? It works. OpenWays has created an appcurrently being tested at select Holiday Inn and Choice Hotels propertiesthat allows guests own smart phones to be used as room keys. Whats Next In a recently issued industry report, futurist Ian Pearson predicted the following hotel-room innovations:
Your bathroom mirror will also function as an interactive display showing news,

TECH

The Tumi Smart Key Fob (USD 145; tumi.com) uses ZOMM to virtually tether to your phone and alerts you if they become separated; it can also be used as a Bluetooth speaker and to make emergency calls.

weather, and messages.

Wall surfaces could serve as voice- and

gesture-controlled monitors that double

as video-conferencing panels or even play slideshows of guests own photos.

Electro-responsive fibres in sleepwear and soft electronics in pillows will monitor

Transform your iPhone 4/4S into an underwater camera with the Aqua Solar Tek case (USD 129.99; snowlizardproducts. com), which keeps the phone charged with a solar-powered battery.

your blood pressure, sleep patterns, and even your stress levels; music or lighting will be adjusted accordingly to help you relax. In extreme cases, the system could even summon a doctor. But in less urgent situations, perhaps it could just book you an appointment at the hotel spa?

The Sportiiiis (from USD 149; 4iiii.com) attaches to glasses and employs LEDs to help you track your heart rate, running pace, and cadence.

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Best Deals

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by Khushi Khanna

Getaways for October

Special Honeymoon Package in Rajasthan

The interiors of a villa at Lakshman Sagar, in Rajasthan.

ROMANCE
What Special Honeymoon Getaway at Lakshman Sagar (Via Raipur, Dist. of Pali, Raipur, Rajasthan; 91-11/2649-4531; sevara.com) The Deal Two-night accommodation including all meals. Highlights Traditional welcome; complimentary bottle of sparkling wine and fruit basket; private splash pools with Jacuzzi; customized private dining with live barbecue; candle light dinner accompanied with bonre and live music performances; village trips; nature walk and breakfast in the elds; jeep safari to Todgarh-Rawali wildlife sanctuary; culinary classes; trek and picnic at Fatehgarh. Cost Doubles from Rs 31,999.

RAJASTHAN

with breakfast. Highlights A bottle of wine and a cake for two; upgrade to a suite if available, upon check-in; aromatherapy full-body massage for two, once during stay; pick up and drop services to select beaches and malls; exclusive oers at the Olive Tree and Cinnamon Lounge. Cost Doubles from Rs 22,500. What Honeymoon Package at Tower Club at Lebua Bangkok (1055/42 Silom Rd., Bangrak; 66-2/624-9555; lebua.com). The Deal Two-night accommodation in a One-Bedroom Suite with breakfast. Highlights Two complimentary signature drink vouchers at Ocean 52/Sky Bar; in-suite spa therapy for two (Lebua Signature Oil Massage/60 minutes). Cost Doubles from USD 855; through March 31. What Honeymoon Package at The Nam Hai (Hamlet 1 Dien Duong Village, Dien Ban

BANGKOK

Dist., Quang Nam Province; 84510/394-0000; ghmhotels. com). The Deal Two-night stay in a One-Bedroom Villa with breakfast. Highlights Airport transfers; private barbecue dinner with a bottle of Dom Perignon and cake; one 60-minute Vietnamese massage for two; one love bath ceremony either at the spa or in the villa. Cost Doubles from USD 650; through December 20.

the evening; 15 percent discount in the restaurant/ bar; complimentary stay for two children below ve years. Cost Doubles from Rs 16,000; through October 31. What Navratra Special Package at Suryagarh, Jaisalmer (Kahala Phata, Sam Road; 91-2992/269269; suryagarh.com). The Deal One-night stay in a Palace Room with breakfast. Highlights Evening puja at the hotel; special vrat ki thalli; transfers from Jodhpur Airport or Jaisalmer station. Cost Doubles from Rs 9,999; through October 30. What Puja Package at The Park, Kolkata (17 Park St.; 9133/2249-9000; theparkhotels. com) The Deal One-night accommodation in Deluxe Room with breakfast Highlights Airport/station transfers; half-day puja excursion/local sightseeing; 15 percent discount on food

JAISALMER

CULTURE
What RIFF Package at Ranbanka Palace, Jodhpur (Circuit House Road; 91291/251-280; ranbankahotels. com). The Deal Two-night accommodation with buet breakfast Highlights Traditional welcome with aarti, tikka; buet/ xed menu dinner; half-day sightseeing by car to Mehrangarh Fort, Museum and Jaswant Thada; cultural performance in

JODHPUR

KOLKATA

What Honeymoon Package at Avari Dubai Hotel (971-4/2956666; avari.com). The Deal Threenight stay in a luxurious apartment

DUBAI

VIETNAM

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COURTESY OF L AKSHMAN SAGAR

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and beverage; 20 percent discount at the spa; entry to all clubs. Cost Doubles from Rs 5,750; October 20 to October 28. stay with breakfast. Highlights Daily breakfast and dinner; one spa treatment per night. Cost Doubles from Rs 43,200; through October 31. more and avail special benets. Highlights Airport transfers; complimentary inroom high speed Internet; buet breakfast for two and children below 12 years; 30 percent discount on food and beverages; 30 percent discount on business centre facilities; late check-out till 4 p.m.

PROMOTION

SPA
What Weekend Spa Oer at Trident, Bandra Kurla, Mumbai (C-56, G Block, Bandra Kurla Complex; 9122/6672-7777; tridenthotels. com) The Deal One-night accommodation in a Premier Room with breakfast. Highlights One 60-minute Trident/Balinese massage; access to swimming pool and tness centre; complimentary Internet usage. Cost Doubles from Rs 12,000; through March 31.

MUMBAI

CITY
What Seeing is Believing package by Fairmont Jaipur (2 Riico Kukas; 91-142/642-0000; fairmont.com). The Deal One-night accommodation; stay two nights, get one night free. Highlights Complimentary room for two children; breakfast for two adults; airport or railway transfers; exclusive kids activities. Cost Rs 9,999, through October 31.

JAIPUR

LUXURY
What Weekend Escape at Alila Villas (alilahotels.com). The Deal One-night accommodation in a OneBedroom Pool Villa at Alila Villas Uluwatu or Mountain Pool Villa at Alila Villas Soori Highlights Complimentary private airport transfers; daily breakfast for two; 30 minutes reexology at Spa Alila; host (butler) service; complimentary use of 24-hour gym and daily yoga sessions Cost Doubles from USD 572 for Alila Villas Uluwatu; doubles from USD 459 for Alila Villas Soori; through March 31.

BALI

Discover Nature Discover Yourself

Peace. Serenity. Solitude. And add to that luxury, elegance, natural surroundings and genuine friendly service is what denes Pimalai. Be it a honeymoon, a wedding, a diving experience, a break from it all or even a business meeting in Krabi, ThailandPimalai, nestled in a lush tropical forest, is the Andaman luxury destination to set your sights on. This exclusive beach resort combines subtle ve-star comforts, natural beauty, environmental friendliness and lots of space. Located at a distance from crowded beaches and close to Lanta Marine National Park, the only sound is that of the waves rolling in and out. Built within the rainforest as it meets the silver ocean strand, you would hardly know Pimalai was there. This boutique beach resort occupies 100 acres of tropical vegetation with direct access to 900 metres of a pristine beach and offers 121 elegantly appointed accommodation units. An hour by the resort boat from Krabi mainland, the beauty of the resort makes the wait worthwhile. A unique lost boutique paradise in tourist Thailand, Pimalai is a rare gem. Visit once and you will return again and again.
Koh Lanta Krabi Thailand email: reservation@pimalai.com Tel: +66(2)320-5500, Fax: +66(2)320-5503 www.pimalai.com

What Essentially Ananda at Ananda in the Himalayas (The Palace Estate, Narendra Nagar, TehriGarhwal; 911378/227-500; anandaspa. com) The Deal Twonight accommodation; complimentary one-night

RISHIKESH

What Long Term Stay package at Courtyard by Marriott, Gurgaon (Plot No. 27-B, B Block, Sector 27, Sector Road, Sushant Lok 1; 91-124/472-4000; marriott.com). The Deal Stay for ve nights or

GURGAON

ADVENTURES OF THE MONTH

C O U R T E S Y O F AT L A N T I S , T H E P A L M

In the mood for some adrenaline-inducing activity ? We bring you the three picks that guarantee an unforgettable experience.

DUBAI what Learn to Dive with Dolphins at Atlantis, The Palm (The Palm Jumeirah; 971-4/426-0000; atlantisthepalm.com) the deal Interactive dolphin conservation session and diving. highlights Become a certied PADI scuba diver; certication in a saltwater pool; dolphin feeding. cost from USD 543; through October 30. BARCELONA what New Helicopter Package by Mandarin Oriental, Barcelona (Passeig de Grcia; 34-93/151-8744; mandarinoriental.com) the deal Pick from tours ranging from 10 minutes to three hours ights. highlights Barcelona Sky Tour takes o from the sea and ies over the citys main attractions

before heading o to Montserrat; the Montserrat Tour ies over the mountains of Catalonia; the Wine Cellar Getaway takes guests to renowned wine cellars; stops for tasting and a vineyard tour. cost From USD 124. THAILAND what Golf Holiday Package in Thailand by Golf Boutique (91/98111-29258) The Three-night stay in Bay View room at Hilton Hua Hin including breakfast. highlights Three rounds of golf, including green fee, caddy fee and transfers to Palm Hills, Springtiled and Black Mountain; in Bangkok stay in a Superior Room at The Davis Bangkok with breakfast and airport transfers. cost USD 680 per person; through October.

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Point of View

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Confessions of a Packing Maximalist

Fashion eccentric and vintage clothing acionado Lynn Yaeger reveals the tricks and travails of high-maintenance travel.
trunks, four suitcases, and three crates of baggage containing, among other items, 70 dresses, 38 feather boas, 10 fur coats, and 91 pairs of gloves. We know this because Mrs. Cardeza, who survived on Lifeboat 3 , filed a staggering 18-page, single-spaced insurance claim against the White Star Line, seeking recompense for that lost erminetrimmed coat and those vanished veils and parasols.

hen Mrs. Charlotte Drake Martinez Cardeza of Philadelphia settled into suite B 51-55 on the Titanic, she had with her 14 50
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Theres a reason Mrs. Cardeza needed all that stuff: fashionable women of her day were forever changing outfitsputting on and taking off different ensembles for dining, dancing, and shopping, even donning elaborate tea gowns, which never actually saw sunlight but were worn just for sitting around the parlour. As fate would have it, I too have complicated wardrobe requirements when I hit the road. And its not only because I frequently travel to Europe to cover the biannual fashion shows, where my colleagues appear to switch garments as often as an Edwardian matron (How do they manage it? Do they FedEx Goyard steamer trunks to the Htel de Crillon? Sneak off to Le Bon March to replenish hotel armoires daily?) but also because my personal style could hardly be called minimalistand, in fact, depends heavily on puffy frocks and layered petticoats. My taste is fiercely nonconformist (well, as fierce as you can be when you are prancing around in a pink sequined dirndl and a scarlet velvet cloak). I am sure that Mrs. Cardeza had a packing system, and I also have a carefully plotted routine, honed over decades of trial and error. First, rest assured that I do not have anything in common with those braggarts who spend six months in 12 capitals with two pairs of black pants and one T-shirt, insisting that they can do magic tricks with scarves. In fact, my situation is quite the opposite: I frequently dont have the right things with me no matter how much I bring, whether Im going to the flea market in Tangiers or a nightclub in Moscow. My predicament is exacerbated by the fact that whenever I check a bag, I am convinced it will not appear unmolested on the other side of the world, so am reluctant to fill it with anything more valuable than shampoo and skivvies. Let me be clear: I

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seems in retrospect to be an insane solution, though it made perfect sense to me at the timeI bought the duffel its own collapsible metal cart, secured it under a crosshatch of bungee cords, and dragged the whole monstrosity through the airport. Of course, I had to collapse the contraption at the door of the plane and tug both it and the 100-pound duffel down the aisle, rolling over peoples toes as I fought my way to the depths of coach. Get wheels! my mom pleaded for years. Look how cute the flight attendants look with their little rolling suitcases! But every time I considered this solution, I heard the words of a stylish photographer friend echoing in my brain. You cant have wheels, he said in a low, disgusted whisper. Its a terrible gesture when you are pulling it! Terrible gesture or not, I did eventually concede, and the result has transport all those fashion items you found so irresistible when you tried them on in foreign fitting rooms and now will never wear again. But thats another story. If I had more time, I could travel by boat, which would solve my problem. You can bring an almost endless number of cases on board, making you look like you just stepped out of a Fred Astaire movie as you fidget on the buffet line. In fact, Cunard offers a White Star shipping service that will fly your luggage from home to the shipas many pieces as you like!so long as they will fit in your stateroom. Appealing as this notion may be, it is alas of limited usefulness: I usually have to be somewhere in eight hours, not eight days. And anyway, wouldnt I be consumed with worry that my cases, torn from my hands and flying on their own to some distant dock, would lose their way? Annoyed friends and colleagues, stuck waiting for me on the other side of security, have gently suggested I modify my personal style just a little. But despite the inconvenience, I stick to my guns (perhaps not the most felicitous turn of phrase when it comes to air travel). And just when I think I am the only lonely pilgrim dolled up in layers of tulle while my fellow travellers cavort happily in Juicy Couture, another underappreciated, overdressed stalwart will sail into view. En route to the Life Ball, in Vienna, one year, I spied the fabulously louche New York nightlife legend Amanda Lepore, poured into a curvaceous satin frock and teetering on vertiginous stilettos while twirling an enormous hatbox. And what a delightful sight she was! Though she was channelling Jayne Mansfield and my costume was closer to Minnie Mouse, we shared a complicit glancesisters under the skin. If you listened closely over the din of the loudspeakers, you could almost hear the spirit of Mrs. Cardeza, resplendent in a lace-trimmed tea gown, cheering us on. Lynn Yaeger is a contributing writer for Vogue.

consider my wardrobe more a collection of irreplaceable artworks than a bunch of things to wear. That my luggage has never failed to arrive in no way allays this fearin fact, it only reinforces my conviction that the odds are against me, that the next trip will be the one with the baggage disaster. Since my carry-on must do the heavy lifting, I have been forced to employ strategies that can be more than a little embarrassing. Summer or winter, you will see me in my heaviest clothes, waddling up to the security gate in something like, say, a Dries Van Noten smock over two skirts and a vintage petticoat, in an attempt to smuggle a few more garments onto the plane. This explosion of fabric inevitably results in my being forced to submit to a series of humiliating and invasive security-related procedures, since, lets face it, there could be an entire arsenal stashed under my ensemble. Can there be a less elegant way to begin a journey than planting your Fogal-clad feet on two filthy yellow rubber footprints, waiting for a total stranger to stick her hands up your dress and dust you down with a powdery substance? No matter! I just smile when the words Female alert! ring out from the TSA agent at the X-ray machine as I approach. To forestall this body search, I have been known to visit the ladies room, peel off a few layers of clothing, stuff them into the largest conveyance that could possibly pass as a piece of hand luggage, and hope that this nowdiminished costume will get me waved through. Alas, this only works half the time. Thank you for keeping us safe! I cry when the guard realizes there is nothing under my dressexcept maybe another dress. At least now I am rushing to the ladies pain-free. For years I insisted on toting a battered Louis Vuitton duffel, convinced that this bag made me look like Sara Murphy circa 1920, heading off to the Riviera, even when I nearly dislocated my shoulder carrying it. So I moved on to what 52
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My personal style could hardly be called minimalist and, in fact, depends heavily on puy frocks and layered petticoats
been life-changing. I am now the poster child for the rabid cult of Rimowa, an ingenious brand that relies on some kind of advanced technology (or maybe just four wheels?) that enables me to glide through the airport as if I am walking a shiny, cherry-red greyhound. And its not just the ease of motionthese things also have flat tops where you can stack expandable Longchamp totes (another remarkable baggage innovation) that allow you to

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October 2012

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In This Issue 54 56 68 74 80 88 Maldives Kerala Toronto Costa Rica Flanders Kuala Lumpur

YA S H A S C H A N D R A

Rooms overlooking the manmade lagoon at The Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal, in Kerala.

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1
Vagaru Island SHAVIYANI ATOLL
$$$$$

Blue Lagoons
1 Viceroy International architects Yabu Pushelberg have reinterpreted tropical chic at the 61-villa Viceroy. Expect Modernist interiors with lagoon views and private plunge pools, as well as a tree-house lounge. Vagaru Island; viceroyhotels andresorts.com.

2
Kihavah Huravalhi Island Mudhdhoo Island BAA ATOLL

2 Anantara Kihavah Villas This Green Globecertified eco-resort makes a splash with glass-bottom bathtubs, chlorinefree infinity pools, an underwater restaurant, and a coral-adoption programme. Kihavah Huravalhi Island; anantara.com.
$$$$$

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Searching for the next great escape? Set a course for the Maldives, where a wave of sybaritic resorts is cresting on even the most far-ung atolls. This stunning archipelago of 1,192 islands scattered in the Indian Ocean is located just north of the equator. T+L charts eight new retreats that will make your journey worthwhile. By Shane Mitchell

4
Bolifushi Island SOUTH MALE ATOLL

3 Dusit Thani A new regional airport has made Baa Atoll easier to access, and this contemporary Thai-style resort is an ideal base for exploring the pristine reefs of nearby Hanifaru Huraa, part of a unesco World Biosphere Reserve. Mudhdhoo Island; dusit.com. $$$$

Illustrated by Kyungduk Kim

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P R I G H T: C O U R T E S Y O F V I C E R O Y M A L D I V E S ; C O U R T E S Y O F A N A N TA R A H O T E L S , R E S O R T S & S P A S ; C O U R T E S Y O F D U S I T T H A N I M A L D I V E S ; C O U R T E S Y O F J U M E I R A H ; C O U R T E S Y O F N I YA M A ; C O U R T E S Y O F S I X S E N S E S R E S O R T S & S P A S ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E R E S I D E N C E ; C O U R T E S Y O F P A R K H YAT T M A L D I V E S H A D A H A A

India

Olhuveli Island

5
DHAALU ATOLL

Sri Lanka

MALDIVES LAAMU ATOLL

6
Olhuveli Island

4 Jumeirah Vittaveli Only a 20-minute boat ride from the international airport in Male, the Jumeirah has a three-bedroom Presidential Suite with two pools, butler service, and its own private beach. Bolifushi Island; jumeirah.com. $$$$$

GR EE CH AN NE L ON E AN D A HA LF DE

7 8
Hadahaa Island Falhumaafushi Island

5 Niyama An underwater nightclub and a marine-biology lab are the highlights at this 86-room sister property to Per Aquums Huvafen Fushi resort. Charter a traditional dhoni sailing boat for a private snorkelling cruise. Olhuveli Island (Dhaalu Atoll); peraquum.com.
$$$$$

8 Park Hyatt Maldives Hadahaa Recently rebranded, the 50-villa Park Hyatt has a top-tier PADI programme tailored to diving expeditions in search of the rare whale sharks, hawksbill turtles, and eagle rays that swim in the far reaches of this deepwater atoll. Hadahaa Island; park.hyatt.com. $$$$$ HUVADHOO ATOLL

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EQUATOR
$$$$

7 The Residence After opening resorts in Tunis, Mauritius, and Zanzibar, the Singapore-based brand arrived here in April. The 94-villa retreat features an overwater Clarins spa at the end of its own jetty. Falhumaafushi Island; theresidence.com.

$$$$$

6 Six Senses Laamu Head out with the surf coach for a lesson on an eight-foot reef break called Yin Yang, just offshore from this eco-luxe 97-villa resort. Dont miss a dinner of grilled jackfish served on a glass aquarium table. Olhuveli Island (Laamu Atoll); sixsenses.com.

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BEKAL
The unexplored north of the Kerala coast is now welcoming visitors with a seductive smorgasbord of inducementsvirgin beaches and backwaters, a little-known local cuisine, and two new resorts that are the last word in luxury. By Roopa Pai Photographed by Yashas Chandra
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A TASTE OF

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Could Flanders be Europes best-kept design secret? In Belgiums northernmost region, Heather Smith MacIsaac discovers three small cities where contemporary style is steeped in centuries-old artistic tradition.
Photographed by Martha Camarillo

BEKAL
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A TASTE OF

And quiet ows the Kappil, one of several riverside gazebos that dot the landscape of The Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal, in Kerala.

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Clockwise from le: A common sight along the stillundiscovered Kappil Beach adjoining the Vivanta by Taj Bekal; curry leaf coated jumbo prawns is a signature dish on the menu; stone gurines from Indonesia segue seamlessly into the coconut palms at this Bali-inspired resort; woven kettuvallam roofs are a recurring design motif at the Vivanta by Taj - Bekal.

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Every place in the world has a seasona time of year when it truly comes into its own. In the small fishing town of Bekal,
tucked away like a secret in the southern reaches of the Malabar coast, that season is the monsoon. As we take in the uninterrupted, rain-washed panorama of sea, beach and emerald coconut groves from the ramparts of the sprawling 17th century Bekal Fort (the very same one that turned in such a brilliant cameo as the rain-drenched, moss-covered backdrop to the cult tune Tu Hi Re in the Mani Ratnam classic Bombay), it is easy to see why. Bekal Fort has been smartened up since its roughedged Bombay days. A few years ago, the well-meaning Archaeological Survey of India made the restoration and maintenance of Keralas best-preserved fort its business laying out lawns, putting in an entry ticket booth, and installing dustbins around the popcorn and soft drink stalls inside. The move is not only bringing the tourists in despite the steady drizzle, several gaggles of visitors, most of them local, were exploring the fort that afternoonbut is also exactly in keeping with Kerala Tourisms ambitious plans for the hitherto under-promoted north. In the past two years, two well-known hotel chains have responded to the tourism departments invitation, and planted their ags seven kilometres north of the Bekal Fort, one on each side of the picturesque Kappil Beach backwaters. The rst one on our itinerary is the nine-month-old Vivanta by Taj - Bekal, now gearing up for its rst international season. It is raining hard as we sweep into the driveway of the Vivanta, past lovely but slightly incongruous stone
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TWO WELL-KNOWN HOTEL CHAINS HAVE PLANTED THEIR FLAGS SEVEN KILOMETRES NORTH OF BEKAL FORT

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Clockwise from le: Designer tropical islands punctuate the many water bodies at the Vivanta; a waiter dressed up to serve a traditional banana-leaf meal; seashells on the Kappil Beach; lobster features prominently on The Lalit Resort & Spa Bekals on-requestonly signature seafood platter. Opposite: A Kerala shermans hands-free method of taking home the days catch.

Garudas over whom the moss is already growing thick, and a giant, rather emaciated Ganesha. Both have been brought in from Baliin fact, the architecture of the whole resort is Bali-inspiredbut stylish doses of local avour also abound, none more ubiquitous and largerthan-life than the resorts signature design motif, the kettuvallam (Kerala rice-boat) roof, whose sinuous curves top rooms, covered walkways, and the entrance porch. At 26 acres, the Vivanta by Taj - Bekal is huge, so even its full complement of 71 rooms doesnt take away from the feeling of endless space. The fact that one edge of the property skirts the backwaters all the way until they enter the Arabian Sea and continues to curve along Kappil Beach doesnt hurt either. But given that Bekal is neither the most accessible destination in the worldyou have to first fly into Mangalore airport, and then take a two-hour car ride from therenor the best-known, you wonder if 71 rooms may not be a bit ambitious. Apparently not, though, for the Vivanta was absolutely buzzing with large family groups the weekend we were there. None of them seemed to have taken advantage of the hotels pet-friendly policies yet, but there were plenty of children. Aggressive marketing has certainly lled the Vivanta with enthusiastic guests, but it has forced the resort to compromise, in a sense, on one important aspectfood. In an attempt to satisfy the largest number of guests, the

buffets at the all-day restaurant, Latitude, the only one open so farfeature only a couple of token Malayalee dishes. (Hot tip: executive chef Gopal Jayaraman will gladly toss up a karimeen pollichathu or a kozhi adachitathu for you if you ask nicely). In the Vivantas defence, it must be said that most people from outside the state are suspicious of Keralas cuisine, particularly because of the preponderance of coconutand coconut oil in it, and none but the most adventurous will willingly submit themselves to three days of local cuisine. It is still something of a missed opportunity, though, both for the guests and for the hotel, because north Malabar cuisine, especially the meat-based cuisine of the Muslim Mappilas, is an entity into itselfrich, fragrant, meat-based dishes low on heat and high on avour, a unique marriage of local ingredients and the culinary traditions of Arab traders who returned to this coast over thousands of years, lured by the scent of Malabar pepper and the more exotic spices from further east. Funnily enough, pepper itself is almost absent in Mappila cuisine the story goes that the canny Mappilas (themselves descended from mixed Arab-Malayalee marriages) were too busy selling the precious black gold to waste it in their own kitchens. Since the buffet wasnt cutting it for us, we settled for several delicious alternatives from the la carte menu aky Kerala parottas and lacy-edged appams with Kozhi
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Clockwise from le: A benevolent Ganesha greets visitors to the Vivanta by Taj - Bekal; baby idlis with a twist at The Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal; pookkalam ower petal rangolion Onam morning at the Vivanta; chefs take time o to pose. Opposite: Room service goes out against the backdrop of the hotels domed, elephant-themed Ivory Bar.

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THE TWO RESORTS MAKE FOR AN INTERESTING STUDY IN CONTRASTSFOR ONE THING, WITHIN THE SAME AREA OF 26 ACRES THE LALIT RESORT & SPA BEKAL ACCOMMODATES JUST 37 ROOMS

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From top: An inside look at a Spa Room at the Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal; seafood occupies a big part of the menu at both resorts. Opposite: As if the pool, the backwaters, the sea, and the rain werent enough, there is also a manmade lagoon at The Lalit.

Mappaschicken in a mild, avourful coconut milk gravy with a strong wallop of coriander seed, and a ridiculously good Chemmeen Kariveppilagrilled juicy j-u-m-b-o prawns rubbed with spices and coconut oil and rolled in coarsely-powdered sun-dried curry leaf. Now that we had discovered where the fun was, we spent the next couple of mealtimes cutting a swathe through a bunch of other dishes, including a few Mappila-specic onesseveral kinds of pathiri (a rice-based bread that evolved in this region to satisfy both the Arab craving for bread at every meal and the Malayalee love of rice ), excellent atterachi varutharacha curry (lamb in a roasted coconut gravy), and a true-blue Mappila biryani, which gets its distinctive taste from the Malabar kaima rice and the addition of a hint of fennel, a spice much favoured by the Mappilas. We also request a full-course sadya (banana-leaf meal featuring over 25 items) for lunch on our second day. It is served in the old-fashioned wayout of steel fourcompartment utensilsby waiters dressed in real mundus. In fact, the only thing not quite authentic about the sadya is that while a traditional one is completely vegetarian, this one includes sh and meat, to appease guests who need their daily x. But it is the rooms at the Vivanta by Taj -Bekal that are easily its most delightful and luxurious aspect. Apart from the basic roomswhich are nice enough, with their own balconies, a daybed swing, and backwater views, every other room has its own private courtyard with a daybed swing in lovely curtained alcove. The courtyards get bigger as the rooms slide up the price scale, and go on to include alfresco bathtubs and lap-of-nature showers, sea-facing deck loungers, and private plunge pools. The beautifuland vastJiva Spa, located in its own nook of the property, helps bump up the hedonistic quotient. he second Bekal resort on our checklist is the older oneThe Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal opened as far back as December 2010. The two resorts make for an interesting study in contrastsfor one thing, within the same area of 26 acres, The Lalit accommodates just 37 rooms, including a spectacular Presidential Villa. And while the resorts architecture is also Bali-inspired in parts, there is enough authentic Kerala in it to never let you lose sight of where have travelled to. Here, the accent is entirely on exclusivityvery few guests, extremely personalized service. In fact, you even get your own Holiday Host from the word go, whose fulltime responsibility you become for the duration of your stay. The Lalits rooms dont have courtyards, but they are luxurious toostaples include in-room Jacuzzis and, given that all rooms are set along the backwaters or around man-made lagoons, great views. Scattered across the property are gazebos inspired by Kerala homes, where you can choose to sit around, have a private meal served to you, or take a private yoga class. The exclusivity even extends to banquetsnever more than 120 guests in all. The Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal, which takes its spa status very seriously, is also big on local. Where the
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Clockwise from top le: Potted plants around the in-room Jacuzzi heighten the sense of being one with nature at the Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal; The Lalits activity room; a good way to while the aernoon away at the Lalit; lounging room at the Rejuve Spa; chef Biju Krishnan demonstrates the correct way to make a Malabar sh curry.

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Tajs Jiva Spa is international and cosmopolitan in terms of its palette of offerings, the Lalits Rejuve is rooted in traditional Ayurvedaa flourishing medicinal herb garden is an important part of the landscape, and authentic Ayurvedic treatments are administered in beautiful treatment rooms cleverly designed to bring the outside in, without any loss of privacy. But where the two resorts depart most from each other is in relation to the food they offer their guests. Simply put, there are no buffets at The Lalits all day dining restaurant, Nombili. Instead, there is an eclectic la carte menu in which local-traditional and internationalcontemporary fuse deliciously and with great panache. These are dishes imagined into existence by executive chef Biju Krishnan, who is not only passionate about his craft but is fanatic about the food philosophy of the resort fresh, healthy, light, beautifully-presented spa cuisine that is far from boring, fashioned out of mostly local ingredients, some of which come right off the resorts edible landscape. Sample these menu picks for inventivenesscurried polenta with baby onion theeyal and salsa fresca, rasam redened with braised onion and sh ravioli, pesto soaked string hoppers with gruyre cheese bites, tender coconut pannacotta... The raw food section features such lovelies as fresh avocado guacamole on sweet pepper, vegetable lasagne with tangy chutney and fresh yoghurt, and discs of apple and g with rock salt. We opted to put aside the menu and watch the chef cook up a dinner for us insteadcarrot and cumin soup with ragi (black millet) ravioli, tricolour puttu, vegetable mappas with njavara rice, and an absolutely sensational Malabar sh curry. We rounded it off with a stylishly presented dessertparippu (lentil) payasam served

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alongside a tower of papad slivers on which half a peeled bananaof the tiniest varietyperched precariously. It seemed a strange combination, but we went ahead and did what we were toldpour the payasam over the papad tower, mash the banana into it, and eat it with your ngers. I would travel back to Bekal just to eat it again. Granted, some of the items dont work as well as the others, and yes, this menu could be intimidating to some, so there is also a full Indian menuwhere gosht roganjosh rubs shoulders with ajwaini paneer tikka. After three-four days, everyone needs their comfort food, shrugs Krishnan. But I must tell you a secretmy brief is to ensure that every guest tries Kerala food at least once during his stay. The way we cook it here will dismiss all their preconceived notions about our food and hopefully lead them to experiment with it even after they go back home. Which isnt that difficult an agenda for him to push, given that he personally sits down with every guest who checks in to gure out his food preferences, before he gets down to preparing a customized menu for him. One good way in which the Vivanta and The Lalit are similar, though, is in the choices they provide to guests to spare them the tedium of eating in the same restaurant throughout their stay. Between the two, you can take your pick from a private lunch or dinner at a riverside or lagoon-side tent or gazebo, on a oating pontoon in the middle of the river, on a traditional Kerala houseboat, in a machan by the sea, or in your own courtyard. Even as this article goes to press, other hotel chains are making their moves on beautiful Bekal, but you dont have to sit around waiting for that to happen. With these two fabulous, and quite distinctive, resorts already in place, all thats left for you to do now is to pick oneor bothand go.

KASARGOD BEKAL
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Kerala
KARNATAKA

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Getting There Bekal is a seaside town in Keralas northernmost district, Kasargod, about 75 kilometres from Mangalore in Karnataka. The best way is to y into Mangalore and take a cab from there, or have the hotel pick you up.

BEST TIME TO VISIT October to February STAY Vivanta by Taj Bekal From morning yoga sessions, kayaking and canoeing, croquet, archery theres plenty to do. They also have a well-equipped reading room-cumlibrary and the signature Taj store, Khazana. The hotel can organise excursions to nearby temples, the Bekal Fort, and a kettuvallam ride/ lunch on the Nileshwaram river, 26 kilometres away. Kappil Beach,

Kasaragod; 91467/661-6612; vivantabytaj.com; doubles from Rs 13,500. The Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal Yoga with an instructor, canoeing and kayaking and excursions to surrounding attractions can all be organized. Bevoori Uduma Kasargod; 91467/223-7777; thelalit.com; doubles from Rs 20,000. You can also spend a night on the kettuvallam on the backwaters bordering the hotel for Rs 25,000 per person.

TAMILNADU

A R A BI A N SEA

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KOCHI

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At The Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal

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Toronto Lights Up

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Ullate provit, aut ut of the The Royal Ontario Museum, dolor eheni ditiam ut pra cum in downtown Toronto, nimus daerum susant. Lorem with Daniel Libeskinds ipsum quunt que. Michael Lee-Chin Crystal addition at right.

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Thanks to an infusion of fashion-forward shops and nightlife, inventive restaurants, and top-tier design, Canadas largest city has gained a newfound swagger and an edgy style all its own.
BY JONATHAN DURBIN PHOTOGR APHED BY ROB FIOCCA

GUIDE + MAP > PAGE 00

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On a recent Saturday evening in downtown Toronto, underground superstar the Weeknd made a rare hometown appearance.

The 22-year-old musician (real name: Abel Tesfaye)known for grinding, clothing-optional hip-hop, R&B, and electronic jamswas DJ-ing a set at one of his local hangouts, a speakeasy-style cocktail lounge called Goodnight. It was too packed to dance, but that didnt stop people from trying; the multi-ethnic crush of twenty- and thirtysomethings jostled roughly in time to the beat. From the unmarked alley-side entrance to the retro drinks menu (featuring such concoctions as the Monkey Gland and Satans Whiskers), the scene had the hallmarks of the kind of nightlife people like to later claim theyd been a part ofthe sort of party that, once the hangover subsides, inspires screenplays and fashion shoots and commemorative coffee-table books. Goodnight was impossibly stylish and photogenic. It felt slightly dangerous, out of control, and loaded with possibility. It was not the Toronto I remembered. Safe, clean, bland: until quite recently, these were the adjectives traditionally applied to Canadas financial and media capital. Toronto was known primarily for its livability, and for its admirably welcoming attitude towards immigrants. Yet despite a steady influx of new cultures, the city lacked verve, vitality, a sense of pride or of real identity. What Toronto was missing in character, it made up for in its rigorous pursuit of sensible liberal values. For cultural cues, Toronto looked to both New York and London, while keeping a disdainful eye on its more effortlessly hip older sibling, Montreal. It exported

some of its talent to the United States, butas is generally true of Canadian artiststhose who stayed behind found that their fame stayed behind, too. (The Tragically Hip, indeed.) Lately, however, Toronto has undergone a remarkable sea change, one thats redefining the city as stylish, sophisticated, cosmopolitancool, evenyet still utterly local. Goodnight is emblematic of this new spirit, as is Matt George, the guy behind the bar, who happens to be the owner. A former snowboarder turned entrepreneur who moved to Toronto from England when he was 21, George is street-smart, business-minded, and totally committed to his adopted hometown. In addition to Goodnighta favourite haunt of Toronto-based musicians such as Drake and Metriche owns an upscale-casual mens clothing store, Nomad, that features a selection of up-andcoming labels (Robert Geller; Gitman Bros. Vintage; S.N.S. Herning) and understated Canadian brands such as the easily wearable (despite the name) Wings & Horns. With footholds in fashion, music, and nightlife, George is undeniably wired into Toronto society and beyond. (At press time, he was one of only five people whom Kanye West followed on Twitter.) And his burgeoning empirewhich stretches from Torontos increasingly polished, high-rise-filled downtown to the Queen West enclave, full of trendsetting shops, restaurants, and bars mirrors the evolution of the city itself.

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I A N D A G N A L L /A L A M Y/ I N D I A P I C T U R E

orontos transformation can be traced, in part, through its changing skyline. The uninspiring, 36-year-old CN Tower, the tallest freestanding structure in North America, is no longer the citys defining landmark. In the past decade, starchitects have been reimagining downtown Toronto: theres Will Alsops Sharp Centre for Design at the Ontario College of Art & Design, a blackand-white domino held aloft by brightly coloured struts that resemble pick-up sticks. Theres Daniel Libeskinds alternately lauded and reviled Michael Lee-Chin Crystal, an addition to the Royal Ontario Museumall steel, glass, and hard angles that sever the stately lines of an otherwise lovely building. Most successful is Frank Gehrys expansion of the Art Gallery of Ontario, with its graceful, curvilinear glasswork melded to the

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Clockwise from top le: A guest suite at the Drake Hotel, Toronto; mens shoes at Sydneys, on Queen Street West; inside the Art Gallery of Ontario; happy hour at the Drake Hotels Sky Yard; the Sharp Centre for Design. Opposite: The Distillery District, on Torontos east side.

exterior of the building. And at the heart of downtownjust west of the Financial Districtis the monolithic TIFF Bell Lightbox, the USD 191 million headquarters of the Toronto International Film Festival, held each September. Plenty of cities can lay claim to high-profile architecture. Paralleling this, however, is an insatiable boom in residential and hotel development. According to research company Emporis, Toronto has more high-rises under construction than any other city on the continent. The view from the roof of my hotel, the recently opened Thompson, recalls Shanghai or Dubai; I lost count of all the cranes. Among the current builds are the new flagship Four Seasons Hotel, opening this October and featuring Daniel Bouluds first restaurant in the city; and the massive Shangri-La Hotel, that is debuting soon with another New York restaurant import, an outpost of David

Changs Momofuku chain. Both properties arrive hard on the heels of the Ritz-Carlton and Trump hotels that opened in February 2011 and January 2012, respectively. The real estate market, meanwhile, has been humming along unabated by the financial crisis, a fact that can be partly attributed to immigration: greater Toronto is growing by 100,000 people each year, with the biggest percentage arriving from urban centres in South Asia and China. (Its a good town for dumplings.) Indeed, the population is large enough to support two Chinatowns in the city centre alone, one downtown and one just east. Still other neighbourhoods are dominated by migrs from Italy, Portugal, Greece, and the Philippines. When I was growing up there in the 1970s and 80s, multiculturalism was the ethos of Torontos immigration policyin contrast to the melting pot drive for homogeneity
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embraced in the United Statesand remains very much a point of local pride. The range and variety of national heritages here is never more evident than during the FIFA World Cup, when the entire city develops a raging case of ftbol fever. What makes all this especially exciting for travellers is that while downtown Toronto grows ever denser and more international, the citys creative classes have established stylish outposts all their own. Look at Queen West (one of the citys thriving art and design districts, anchored along a fivekilometre stretch of Queen Street); at the Distillery District (a complex of shops, restaurants, and arts organizations located on the 14-acre grounds of a former whiskey distillery, on Torontos east side); and at Little Italy (a charming district of bars and eateries along College Street, to the north). In any of the above, you cant get too far without running into a table crafted out of a reclaimed barn door. Theres a bountiful supply of Edison-bulb-lit restaurants emphasizing seasonal organic ingredients; stores stocking both international and homegrown designers; galleries, theatres, and music venues; and clubs and lounges you might actually want to spend an evening in. And

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despite the increasingly urbane and worldly vibe, the city still pays tribute to the big-sky country surrounding it. (Drive north from downtown and you reach real Canadian wilderness in almost no time.) In its way, Toronto feels like a frontier town one thats in the midst of a cultural gold rush. ueen West is the apotheosis of the citys new energy, a swathe of row houses and former factories reminiscent of Londons East End or parts of Brooklyn. This is where youd want to move if you were young and in a band. My joke was always that you couldnt find a roll of toilet paper, and now you can get an ironic Sonic Youth onesie for your baby, said singer Emily Haines, of Metric and Broken Social Scene, a longtime Queen West resident. On weekends the neighbourhood feels like a playground for street-style photographersnot surprising given the ever expanding collection of fashion boutiques. Besides Matt Georges Nomad, theres Sydneys, which carries mens wear from Dries Van Noten, Jil Sander, and Japanese brand the Viridi-anne; and the local label Klaxon Howl, which, in addition to vintage military gear, sells its own mens clothing: stiff selvage denim and chinos; flannel scarves; ultra-structured shirts. Its the chic, woodsy look: wear it the next time youre hiking to a model casting. For all the global brands, theres a distinctly local flavour to Queen Westthis isnt Hipsterville, Anywhere. The neighbourhoods two standout hotels, the Gladstone and the Drake, both feature Canadian artworks; at the former, a different Ontario artist decorated each of the 37 guestrooms, while the Drake employs a full-time curator and rotates its

Clockwise from far le: At Goodnight bar; Templar Hotel; a view from the roof of the Thompson hotel; The Woodlot, a restaurant and bakery in Torontos Little Italy.

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collection throughout the hotel every month. Both properties were 19th-century Trunk Railway lodgings that had fallen on hard times before being renovated. Jeff Stober, who bought the Drake in 2001 and reopened it three years later, sees the hotel as a cultural space for Torontonians. As the downtown core becomes more dense, you can only do so much entertaining in your personal living spaces, he said. What happens by default is that the city becomes your living room. From store owners to restaurateurs, everyone recognizes that this is a really good place to pitch a tent. Or to build a brand. Stober also owns three shopsone of them attached to the hotelcalled Drake General Store. Their stock capitalizes on a groundswell of hometown pride, running the gamut from genuinely desirable stuff (Hudsons Bay Company blankets) to Canadiana kitschmaple syrup, red-cedar incense (which, full disclosure, I bought and love), and a decorative ceramic dish that reads I MISS THE OLD BLUE JAYS, a reference to the 1990s glory days of Torontos baseball team. This sense of affectionate irreverence is pervasive in the city. My favourite instance: a quote from the late journalist Pierre Berton, emblazoned in a hallway at the Thompson: A Canadian is someone who knows how to make love in a canoe. At the splendid Franks Kitchen, a small, chef-owned spot in Little Italy, half the menu reads like a caricature of what youd think Canadians might eat: rare elk loin; rarer venison tartare. Both are fantastic. Torontonians are effusive in promoting one another. After a tour through his Nomad boutique, George took me to a new boutique hotel in the Entertainment District designed by a friend of his named Del Terrelonge. Called the Templar Hotelas in Simon, not the Knights, Terrelonge qualified the hotel has 27 smartly decorated suites and lofts, a spa, and a chefs-table restaurant called Monk Kitchen; deploys a Porsche Panamera as an airport shuttle; and features a lap pool with a transparent floor thats positioned over the lobbys lounge area. When I asked for dinner recommendations, George steered me to Woodlot: bakery by day, restaurant by night, in a warm, inviting, bi-level space with Native Canadian artwork on the walls and a casually stylish waitstaff. Chef-owner David Hamans style of cooking has been dubbed urban lumberjack by the Toronto press; though I was sceptical, his food turned out to be the finest of my trip. The bipartite menu offers both Regular and Without Meat options: whey-fed pork chop and steak on one side, caramelized Jerusalem artichokes and roast Japanese sweet potato on the other. Almost everything comes out of the restaurants wood-burning oven. There wasnt any place like Woodlot when I lived in Toronto. But the restaurant and its small-scale, artisanal approach seem to represent the future: a well-designed, thoroughly confident experience that respects Torontos heritage and simultaneously breaks new ground. There was no sense that the place was a knockoff or that it owed its menu and genial vibe to some other restaurant, in some other city. And thanks to the wood-burning oven, I left smelling like Id been at a campfire. How Canadian is that? Jonathan Durbin is a New York Citybased writer whose work has appeared in Esquire, Paper, and Interview.

WorldMags.net Toronto
BLOOR ST. W. CHINATOWN DUNDAS ST. W. OSSINGTON ART GALLERY OF ONTARIO SHARP CENTRE QUEEN ST. W. FOR DESIGN QUEEN WEST KING ST. W.
UNIVERSITY AVE.

ROYAL ONTARIO MUSEUM

LITTLE ITALY COLLEGE ST.

QUEENS PARK

EAST CHINATOWN

TIFF BELL LIGHTBOX ENTERTAINMENT FINANCIAL DISTRICT DISTRICT CN TOWER

F. G . GA R

DISTILLERY DISTRICT 0.5 MI 0.8 KM

D IN E

R EXPWY.

T L Guide
Getting There Air France and Jet Airways y to Toronto Pearson International Airport. Visas are mandatory and can be obtained at the High Commission of Canada (7/8 Shantipath, Chanakyapuri, Delhi; 91-11/4178-2000; canadainternational.gc.ca/ india) and cost Rs 3,975. thefeastingroom.com. $$$ Franks Kitchen 588 College St.; 416/516-5861. $$$ Goodnight 431 Richmond St. W.; goodnightbar.com. Keriwa Caf Seasonal, indigenous cuisine made by a Canadian Siksika tribe descendant. 1690 Queen St. W.; keriwacafe.ca. $$$ Luma Inside the TIFF Bell Lightbox and run by Oliver & Bonacini, the duo behind local hot spots Bannock, Jump, and Canoe. 350 King St. W.; oliverbonacini.com. $$$ Monk Kitchen 348 Adelaide St. W.; 416/479-4080. $$$$ Origin Go early for creative cocktails on the patio, and stay for favourites like the Bangkok beef salad with mango. 107-109 King St. E.; origintoronto.com. $$$ Woodlot 293 Palmerston Ave.; woodlotrestaurant.com. $$$ DO Art Gallery of Ontario 317 Dundas St. W.; ago.net. Distillery District 55 Mill St.; distillerydistrict.com. Royal Ontario Museum 100 Bloor St. W.; rom.on.ca. Sharp Centre for Design At Ontario College of Art & Design, 100 McCaul St.; ocadu.ca. TIFF Bell Lightbox 350 King St. W.; ti.net. SHOP Drake General Store Queen 1144 Queen St. W.; drakegeneralstore.ca. Klaxon Howl 706 Queen St. W.; klaxonhowl.com. Nomad 819 Queen St. W.; nomadshop.net. Sydneys 682 Queen St. W.; shopsydneys.com.

Getting Around Torontos bus and subway system is ecient and costs USD 3 a ridebetter than negotiating the citys trac. ttc.ca.
M

STAY Drake Hotel 1150 Queen St. W.; thedrakehotel.ca. $ Four Seasons Hotel 60 Yorkville Ave.; fourseasons. com. $$$ Gladstone Hotel 1214 Queen St. W.; gladstonehotel.com. $ Ritz-Carlton 181 Wellington St. W.; ritzcarlton.com. $$$$ Shangri-La Hotel 188 University Ave.; shangri-la.com; rates not available at press time. Templar Hotel 348 Adelaide St. W.; designhotels.com. $$$ Thompson 550 Wellington St. W.; thompsonhotels.com. $$ Trump International Hotel & Tower 325 Bay St.; trump hotelcollection.com. $$$$ EAT Caf Boulud 60 Yorkville Ave.; danielnyc.com. $$$ Feasting Room Nose-to-tail pop-up (open through Nov.) from an alum of Londons St. John restaurant. 580A College St.;

hotels $ Less than $200 $$ $200 to $350 $$$ $350 to $500 $$$$ $500 to $1,000 $$$$$ More than $1,000 restaurants $ Less than $25 $$ $25 to $75 $$$ $75 to $150 $$$$ More than $150
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Poolside at Oxygen Jungle Villas, near Uvita de Osa, in Costa Rica.

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COSTA RICA DIVE IN

On a journey down the Pacic coast and into the rain forest, RICHARD ALLEMAN uncovers eight amazing jungle lodges and oceanfront hotels.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY BETH GARRABRANT

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Playa Uvita, on Costa Ricas southern Pacic coast. Clockwise from below: Playing chess in the library at Rancho Pacico, in Uvita de Osa; a breakfast bite at El Silencio Lodge & Spa, in Bajos del Toro; the Treehaus Hideaway at Rancho Pacico.

T+L Tip At Oxygen Jungle Villas, ask the concierge to organize a zipline excursion with Osa Canopy Tours (osacanopy tours.com).

T+L Tip Arrange for a seafood dinner for twoor 10 beside the infinity pool at Rancho Pacifico.

OXYGEN JUNGLE VILLAS Uvita de Osa As you drive up the steep gravel road that leads to this remote retreat above the southern town of Uvita, you may start to lose faith. Did you miss a turn? Could it be up this high? A few minutes later, you spot the pool, edged with Moroccan lanterns and seeming to spill out over green hills to the Pacific. Lounge music plays at just the right volume; guests lie under Balinese umbrellas reading their Kindles and listening to their

RANCHO PACIFICO Uvita de Osa Seeking a mountain to call your own? Set on a 250-acre preserve, this hilltop eco-lodge draws an A-list clientele (Anderson Cooper, Sheryl Crow, and Al Gore, to name a few) who come for the privacy: check in to one of two new Treehauses, which are set back from the main building. Rooms have neo-Modernist

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P I N K J E A N S : F O R E N Z A . I L L U S T R AT I O N S B Y M E G H A N N S T E P H E N S O N

eserted sand. Wildlife refuges. A laid-back pura vida lifestyle. Whats not to love about Costa Rica? Sure, its been on our radar for a while, but with a host of small, stylish hotels hidden in the jungle and along the shore, the tiny Central American country is now more appealing than ever. Here, the eight places that top our list.

iPods. Marco, the young concierge, escorts you to your bungalow, one of just 12 on the property. The rooms are all glass, except for the teak peaked roofs, and furnished with big poster beds, stacks of baskets that serve as dressers, and large white sofas on the front porches. Theres something disconcerting about staying in such futuristic digs in the middle of the jungle, but youll adjust quickly. Soon youre off trekking to Oxygens waterfall, visiting nearby beaches, or venturing a 40-minute drive south to Corcovado National Park, one of the most biodiverse landscapes in the world. oxygenjunglevillas.com. $

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A pool at Rancho Pacico.

T+L Tip Dont miss the tide pools surrounded by limestone formations, just steps from Florblanca.

T+L Tip

N E O N B A G : E C H O D E S I G N . I L L U S T R AT I O N S B Y M E G H A N N S T E P H E N S O N

furnishings and sweeping vistas of the ocean almost unheard of for a hotel in the rain forest. Adventurers can go wildlife spotting or visit indigenous villages, while those in need of downtime can opt for a hot-stone massage or relax at one of the propertys five pools. There is little reason to leave the lodge, except perhaps to spend the day at Ballena Beach Club, where hotel guests have free access to the umbrella-covered chaises and pristine white sand of Playa La Colonia. ranchopacifico.com. $$ FLORBLANCA Playa Santa Teresa Its not often that you come across an Asianinspired resort in Costa Ricaespecially one located on Playa Santa Teresas best surf break. Here, its more about blissing out than riding the waves. There are only a few dozen guests at any time, and everything is designed to soothefrom the boulder-studded pool, where youll feel like youre swimming in an aqueous Zen garden, to the bamboo spa bungalow, with its ponds

and shoji screens. Each of Florblancas 11 villas is accented with organic fabrics and native hardwoods, and all have terraces outfitted with hammocks. (Book the Surf House, steps from the ocean.) After an evening yoga class on the beach, kick back with a tamarind mojitoor twofrom the open-air Nectar bar. florblanca.com. $$$ LATITUDE 10 Playa Santa Teresa If Florblanca feels like a luxe Asian retreat, Latitude 10, its neighbour to the north, is somewhat of a no-frillsbut fashionablesafari hideaway in Africa. Dont expect Frette linens or flat-screen TVs: the five simple, open-sided wooden casitas were built with shades instead of windows, so guests can sleep and reside completely in harmony with nature, as the sign reads in the lobby. Come dinnertime, youll be rewarded for your fortitude, thanks to affable French chef Sebastian Regier, who creates daily seafood-centric dishesguests can pre-order before noon for the freshest catch from local

Unwind with a sunset holistic massage by Sebastian Campanile or Dolores Aviani, two of the top practitioners in the area, at Latitude 10.

T+L Tip Sign up for Nayara Hotels guided ve-mile hike through Tenorio Volcano National Park that ends at the robinsegg-blue waters of Ro Celeste.

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fishermenserved in the breezy dining room or, if you prefer, at a secluded beachside spot. latitude10.com. $$
T+L Tip Spend the afternoon at the Catarata del Toro, a 300-foot waterfall that cascades into the crater of an extinct volcano near El Silencio Lodge & Spa.

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T+L Tip For a low-key lunch near the Logan, swing by Pablitos, on the edge of town. Try a chicken, beef, or seafood stew with an ice-cold Imperial beer.

NAYARA HOTEL, SPA & GARDENS Arenal Volcano (La Fortuna) In a country known for its natural wonders, the 5,643-foot Arenal Volcano is arguably the star attraction. Though the volcano is now dormant, travellers still flock to this lush region for its wildlife spotting, white-water rafting, and kayaking on Lake Arenal. Among the dozens of hotels in the area, we love the newly revamped Nayara Hotel, Spa & Gardens (the No. 1 resort in Central and South America in T+L U.S. Worlds Best Awards). Dynamic owner Leo Ghitis has outfitted the 50 villas with spacious decks (some have hot tubs), plantation furniture, and, alas, jarring avocado-coloured walls. But the jawdropping views of the volcano more than make up for the painting faux pas. And the just-opened wine bar serves up some of Latin Americas best vintages by the glass. arenalnayara.com. $$ EL SILENCIO LODGE & SPA Bajos del Toro Tangaras, quetzals, smiling slothsyoull find them all on this 500-acre hideaway in the

depths of a tropical cloud forest. Indeed, the place feels so far off the map that its hard to believe the lodge is only a 90-minute drive north of the capital, San Jos. From a narrow road, youll enter what resembles a remote Japanese mountain village: 16 wooden bungalows built on pillars rise above gargantuan leaves and exotic ferns. The rustic-chic interiors are the work of renowned Costa Rican architect Ronald Zurcher, who incorporated lacquered wood floors, bamboo ceilings, and, best of all, decks overlooking the cloud-ringed mountains. At night, head to the glass-walled restaurant to feast on such Central American specialties as spicy chicken chalupas, with ingredients sourced from El Silencios organic farm. silenciolodge.com. $$ THE LOGAN Smara On a palm-studded crescent of white sand, Playa Smara is a funky settlement of some 1,500 expats and Costa Ricans, a 90-minute drive south of Tamarindo. This is laid-back Costa Rica at its best: barefoot cafs, beachside surf schools, and a coral reef with unbeatable snorkelling. The areas most buzzed-about newcomer is the Logan, a stylishly spare four-suite property opened by Canadians Quinn Vorster and his wife, Monika Dukszta. Custom-made dark-wood furniture and cement floors make up the lightfilled interiors, and the saltwater pool is the perfect place for whiling the day away. Vorster

From le: Inside a bedroom at Oxygen Jungle Villas; a footbridge near El Silencio Lodge.

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The terrace of a two-bedroom villa at Rancho Pacico.

and Dukszta are on hand to give you the scoop on where to eat and what to do, from a candlelit dinner at nearby La Vela Latina to a picnic at the remote Playa Carrillo, a half-hour walk away. thelogansamara.com. $ CALA LUNA Playa Langosta, Tamarindo A decade ago, the town of Tamarindo was a quiet surfers haven on Costa Ricas northern Pacific coast. These days it is, for better or worse, one of the countrys most well-trodden beach resorts, filled with low-rise hotels and lively waterside restaurants. For those whod prefer to dip in and out of the scene, theres Cala Luna, three kilometres south on the almost empty Playa Langosta. Built in 1994 by a Belgian couple, the property closed for two years and just reopened after a top-tobottom makeover. Rooms and villas are as sensitive to the environment as they are easy on the eyes, using only natural and recycled materials and done up in cool beiges, locally made furniture, and polished concrete walls and mosaic-tiled tubs in the large bathrooms. Next to the shaded pool, a waitstaff dressed in plaid shirts and cowboy hats serve ceviche at the buzzy restaurant. Besides the usual array of watersports (Jet Skiing; snorkelling), theres horseback riding at the owners nearby finca and whale watching aboard the hotels 26-foot powerboat. Just get back in time for sunset at the propertys little beach. calaluna.com. $$

Costa Rica

PL AYA TAMARINDO LIBERIA N ICA R AG UA TENORIO VOLCANO NATIONAL PARK LAKE A RE N A L NUEVO ARENAL LA FORTUNA ARENAL VOLCANO NATIONAL PARK BAJOS DEL TORO PL AYA L A N GOSTA

T+L Tip Take a surfing lesson at Witchs Rock Surf Camp on Playa Tamarindo, a stones throw away from Cala Luna (witchsrocksurf camp.com).

PL AYA S M A R A PL AYA CA RRI L LO

PL AYA SA N TA TE RESA

SAN JOS

PAC I F IC OC E A N

UVITA DE OSA

CORCOVADO NATIONAL PARK

N
0

PA N A M A 32 MI 52 KM

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Getting There and Around American Airlines, United, and Continental oer ights to Costa Ricas San Jos International (SJO) airport. Once there, consider renting a car with four-wheel drive. Or take a puddle jumper with Nature Air (natureair.com) or Sansa (sansa.com) to your nal destination. Visas are mandatory and can be obtained from the Embassy of Costa Rica (C-25, 3rd Floor, Anand Niketan, Delhi; 91-11/4108-0810) and cost Rs 1,675. Valid U.S. visa holders do not require separate visas.

I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y M E G H A N N S T E P H E N S O N

hotels $ Less than $200 $$ $200 to $350 $$$ $350 to $500 $$$$ $500 to $1,000 $$$$$ More than $1,000 restaurants $ Less than $25 $$ $25 to $75 $$$ $75 to $150 $$$$ More than $150

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A view at dusk over the Leie River in Ghent, in Belgium.

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design secret? In Belgiums northernmost region, Heather Smith MacIsaac discovers three small cities where contemporary style is steeped in centuries-old artistic tradition.

WorldMags.net Could Flanders be Europes best-kept

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Photographed by Martha Camarillo

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From top: Antwerp Central Station; the replace at Antwerps Restaurant Roji. Opposite: The breakfast room at Antwerps Hotel Julien.

nless you are a diamond dealer on business ying from New York, you are likely to arrive in Antwerp, as I did, by rail. Likely too you will be travelling via a larger city, because Antwerpas opposed to Paris or Amsterdam or London, from which its an easy train hopis considered a second-string destination on the European hit list. Antwerp Central is step one in setting you straight. From the high-speed-train tracks, escalators lifted me past a bold new gridded superstructure by architect Jacques Voncke into the glorious cathedral of the original turnof-the-20th-century station. The contrast was revelatory. Here in a palatial nutshell was the palette and soft light, the practicality and brio, the deep tradition and smart modernity that I would see again and again over the next few days as I made my own accelerated loop through the trinity of citiesAntwerp, Ghent, and Brugesthat anchor the northern region of Belgium known as Flanders. On trips to Paris, I know what Ill nd: elegance, beauty, a certain feminine delicacy. Belgium, on the other hand, is a mongrel stimulant. I had sampled its wonderful oddness in Brussels four years ago, my rst dig into Belgian design and decoration. But Brussels, the seat of the European Union, is a peculiar hybrid of international bland and haute guildhall, its avant-garde stylishness tucked into corners. Could it be that I would discover a purer form of Belgian interior style in an area half the size of Marylandthe golden triangle of Flanders? What I was seeing out the taxi window was not promising. Bland post-war buildings, in-ll for wide swathes of Antwerp that had been levelled by bombs during World War II, supplanted the spectacle of the train station. My surly driver did not help, screaming down narrow streets that were relentless tunnels of grey. I caught sight of the sign for Hotel Julien up ahead, and a dialogue of doubt began to spin. The hotel had looked so stylish on its website; could this really be the street? How hard would it be to rebook? But the hotel itself was all-redeeming. Only good things could lie behind double doors of such chic taupe and perfect
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gloss. In the white foyer, an antique settee upholstered in natural linen and a simple domed light xture were the only adornments. Modern sectionals in pale grey wool cosied up to the twin black-marble replaces of the parlour. A sleek bar at the back bridged the two 19th-century buildings. Even on this dim afternoon, natural light penetrated deep into the interior. The Flemish have a gift for taking a space not much larger than an air shaft and transforming it into a sanctuary. At Hotel Julien, the public rooms had no views to speak of, but sitting in them was a pleasure thanks to walls of gridded glass opening onto small courtyards. At breakfast one morning, it was not the passing trolleys outside that drew my attention but the scene opposite: a tiny courtyard, white-walled and gravel-oored, with the elegant skeleton of a single bare tree emerging from asymmetrical waves of evergreen hedges. Such a painterly hand with plant material could only be credited to the inuence of landscape designer (and hometown boy) Jacques Wirtz. What Wirtz is to landscape designa game changer with far-reaching inuenceanother Flanders native son, Axel Vervoordt, is to interiors, only tenfold. For 30 years, Vervoordt has dened Belgian style. Fourteen years ago, he bought a former distillery a short drive from Antwerps centre, which he turned into showrooms, offices, and exhibition spaces and renamed Kanaal. The large, spare rooms of the brick warehouses and concrete silos, where contemporary art and unusual antiques mix with farm tables and oversize slipcovered sofas, encapsulate his vision in its most elevated form. Vervoordts work can also be experienced right in the centre of town at a trio of places tucked into and under Vlaeykensgang, a narrow, easily missed alley just off the pedestrian Oude Koornmarkt. At his namesake gallery, the cool black stone oors and whitewashed walls form a monastic setting for works by the likes of Anish Kapoor. Serene in a softer way was Sir Anthony Van Dijck, a restaurant designed by Vervoordt in the 1980s. That the lookroughly plastered walls; worn stone oors; scrubbed pine tablesstill seemed current was testament to the designers trust in simplicity and natural materials. Beautiful as Van Dijck was, I opted instead to dine at the French-Japanese Restaurant Roji around the corner. Secreted in a vaulted stone cellar, Roji represents Vervoordts evolution to a more seamless environment aligned with the principles of wabi-sabi. Roji is the Japanese term for a path leading to a tea garden, a symbolic moving away from the outside world into a contemplative place. On this damp and cold night, the restaurant was a transformative ticket to warmth on every level. Stone, ceramics, soft-shell crab, and sake were united in a family of subtle hues and distinct textures. The re in the hearth felt almost medieval. Well after leaving, the fragrance of woodsmoke lingered on my clothes and hair. Even though Vervoordt has moved ahead, not all of his countrymen are with him. Belgian style as represented by his earlier Van Dijck restaurant suits the Flemish, whose interiors reect a fundamentally conservative and private naturestylish but never amboyant. Its a sensibility 84
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Owners Jan Rosseel and Marc Vergauwe in the salon at Chambres dHtes Htel Verhaegen, Ghent.

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From top: Peter and Cristina Van Steenbergen-di Resta, owners of Antwerps International 14; the faade of mustard shop Yves Tierenteyn-Verlent, in Ghent.

embodied by Flamant, the Flemish equivalent of Restoration Hardware. The Flamant brothers, sons of an antiques dealer, opened their rst shop in Antwerp 30 years ago, bringing well-made, well-priced, modern interpretations of antique pieces to the bourgeoisie. I bought candles in a soft taupe that recalled the shades of beige and grey dominating contemporary Flemish interiors. An echo of the pallid light captured by painters, or an extension of the linen Flanders was famous for producing, the palette is calm and elegant though to some its simply dull. Im so tired of the Flanders style. I feel like Im looking at rooms through panty hose. This comment was made to Cristina Van Steenbergen-di Resta by a friend, but it could have been the decorators own lament. Her shop, International 14, was a bright star among the emporiums I explored along Kloosterstraat, the spine of Antwerps antiques district. A rare straw hat, circa 1820, was treated as sculpture; brilliantly coloured taxidermy parrots were sprinkled amid handsome Swedish cupboards and a sofa of di Restas own design. In 16th- and 17th-century Flanders, it was all the rage to collect odd items from around the world and display them in ornate verzamel cabinets, Van Steenbergen-di Resta said. I think of the room as a cabinet, and the decoration and people who live there as the collections that bring the story to life. Arrayed on a wood table were contemporary samples of traditional Flemish leather wall coverings, much like what I had just seen at the nearby Plantin-Moretus Museum. Although the holdings of what was once the most signicant printer and publisher in 16th-century Europe were exceptional, it was the museums deeply atmospheric rooms, side-lit through stacked leaded glass windows shielded by dark shutters, that I had come to see. I wanted to know if it was possible to occupy a Jan van Eyck painting in real life. The answer is yes; caught in the light by a window, the lone museum guard seemed poised for a session with the master. nowing what to enhance and when to leave well enough alone is a hallmark of Flemish style, as I discovered anew at the four-room Chambres dHtes Htel Verhaegen, a 50-minute train ride away in Ghent. To their listed 18th-century htel particulier, Jan Rosseel and Marc Vergauwe (who met in design school in Ghent) brought their own high intelligence, treating the architectural shell as the treasure it is while adding wit, comfort, and appropriately invisible technology. Shapely modern lamps offset boiserie and paintings by 18th-century Flemish artist Pierre Norbert van Reysschoot. Striped carpets on the stairs and in the bedrooms complement the original herringbonewood and black-and-white marble oors. If it is possible to be both taut and lush in decoration, then Rosseell and Vergauwe are masters. Rare are the places where one can experience the art in lart de vivre. Rarer still are the times that I arrive at a hotel and want to abandon the rest of my itinerary. So I stepped away from Htel Verhaegen only long enough to gather excitement about my return. Once the most important centre for wool and cloth in medieval Europe, Ghent wears its historical signicance

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lightly. A few blocks from the guesthouse, I came across a contemporary design store, Surplus Interieur; Ghents best art and architecture bookshop, Copyright; and Dille & Kamille, a Belgian-Dutch chain of orderly, open-shelf, tin-bin bazaars of kitchen and bathwares. At the Design Museum Ghent, I took in Belgian masterpieces such as an 18th-century wooden chandelier by J. F. Allaert and the 1930s tubular furniture of Gaston Eysselinck. I stood in rapture before the panels of the van Eyck brothers Ghent Altarpiece in St. Bavo Cathedral, and in dismay at the ugly (if necessary) climate-controlled glass box that encases it. I stopped in at Yves Tierenteyn-Verlentnot so much for the tangy traditional mustard made fresh several times a week, but for the original 1860 interior. At Pakhuis, tucking in to oven-roasted Bresse chicken beneath industrial trusses felt like picnicking in the machine room of the Eiffel Tower. Half an hour away by train and less than half the size, Bruges felt more packed than Ghent and far more touristy, the streets leading off the Markt choked with lace and chocolate shops. To meet the need of so many visitors, Bruges has exploded with small guesthouses where you can dial into any period look. I chose to stay at St. Jacob, a 19th-century building transformed into a contemporary B&B with four smart white rooms and a spectacular kitchen. Emmanuel Vanhaecke and his sister, Lyne, second-generation hoteliers, run two charming others that step further back in time:

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Maison Le Dragon and Bonifacius Private Guesthouse. Stay at the latter and you are practically on the Groeninge Museums campus; the high-breasted hearth and leadedglass bay windows of Bonifaciuss breakfast room, overlooking the canal, are just a courtyard away. The schizophrenia of Bruges was what held my interest. One moment I could be immersed in the shadows of low-ceilinged rooms and the rich textures of brick walls and cobblestoned courts. The next I would be admiring Frederiek van Pamels way with mixing Asian artefacts, blooming branches, leather, and zinc in his interiors and oral shop. At tiny, rocking Rock-fort I nabbed a counter stool and watched the chefs turn out young Anjou pigeon and fried liver with jam. My head was lled with images of the trip, so many of them beautiful, unexpected, even contradictory. Sifting and sorting, I came to an understanding rather than a conclusion. What made Flanders such a satisfying place to visit was not the ease of train travel (though that helped) or the accommodations, which were some of the chicest I have ever encountered, but its identity. Flemish style is stealth style, Flanders the land of under-promise and over-delivery. Flanders is only small if youre not looking. Heather Smith MacIsaac is a regular T+L contributor who writes frequently about design.
Ghent; hotel verhaegen.be. $$ Hotel Julien 24 Korte Nieuwstraat, Antwerp; hotel-julien. com. $$ Maison Le Dragon 5 Eekhoutstraat, Bruges; maison ledragon.be. $$ St. Jacobs B&B 20 Oude Zak, Bruges; stjacobs.be. $ Sir Anthony Van Dijck Restaurant 16 Vlaeykensgang, Oude Koornmarkt, Antwerp; siranthony vandijck.be. $$$ DO Axel Vervoordt Gallery Vlaeykensgang, 16 Oude Koornmarkt, Antwerp; axel vervoordtgallery.com. Design Museum Gent 5 Jan Breydelstraat, Ghent; design museumgent.be. Groeninge Museum 12 Dijver, Bruges; musea brugge.be. Kanaal 15-19 Stokerijstraat, Wijnegem; kanaal.be. Plantin-Moretus Museum 2223 Vrijdagmarkt, Antwerp; museumplantin moretus.be. St. Bavo Cathedral Sint-Baafsplein, Ghent; sintbaafs kathedraal.be. SHOP Copyright 8B Jakobijnenstraat, Ghent; copyright bookshop.be. Dille & Kamille 15 Hoornstraat, Ghent; dille-kamille.be. Flamant 12/14 Lange Gasthuisstraat, Antwerp; amant.com. Frederiek van Pamel 3 Eiermarkt, Bruges; frederiek vanpamel.be. International 14 14 Kloosterstraat, Antwerp; international14.com. Surplus Interieur 9 Zwartezustersstraat, Ghent; surplus interieur.be. Yves Tierenteyn-Verlent 3 Groentenmarkt, Ghent; 32-9/2258336.

Flanders
NORTH SEA BRUGES GHENT ANTWERP

NETHERLANDS

BRUSSELS

BELGIUM
FRANCE 0 25 MI 40 KM

T L Guide
Getting There Jet Airways oers direct ights to Brussels. Schengen visas are mandatory and can be obtained from the Embassy of the Kingdom of Belgium (50-N, Shantipath, Chanakyapuri, Delhi; 91-11/4242-8000; diplomatic.be/newdelhi) and cost Rs 4,140. Antwerp is also an easy high-speed train trip from Amsterdam (1 hours), Paris (2 hours), and London (3 hours, connecting through Brussels). Travelling between Antwerp, Ghent, and Bruges takes between half an hour to an hour on local trains.

STAY Bonifacius Private Guesthouse 4 Groeninge, Bruges; bonifacius.be. $$ Chambres dHtes Htel Verhaegen 110 Oude Houtlei,

EAT Pakhuis 4 Schuurkenstraat, Ghent; pakhuis.be. $$$ Restaurant Roji 26 Oude Koornmarkt, Antwerp; roji.be. $$$ Rock-fort 15 Langstraat, Bruges; rock-fort.be. $$$

Inside Flamant in Antwerp.

hotels $ Less than $200 $$ $200 to $350 $$$ $350 to $500 $$$$ $500 to $1,000 $$$$$ More than $1,000 restaurants $ Less than $25 $$ $25 to $75 $$$ $75 to $150 $$$$ More than $150

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PASSPORT TO THE WORLD

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With inuences from Australia to Iran and most stops in between, todays Kuala Lumpur has never been more of an international crossroads. John Krich sets o to nd out what makes it tick. Photographed by Austin Bush

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Iranian plates at Naab, in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Opposite: At Journal by Plan B, in Publika mall.

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Its a sight like no other on the planet.

Every night along the sidewalks and shop blocks of Kuala Lumpur, groups of restless youth, mostly ethnic Chinese in body-hugging black, puff away determinedly on Arabicstyle shisha water pipes. Is this the latest statement of cultural confusion run amok, to use the Malay word? Or is the capital of a crossroads nation taking its bubbling ethnic hot pot to a hotter, hipper boil? In far-ung neighbourhoods and mixed-use developments, tatty pulled tea cafeterias are giving way to leafy pan-Asian cafs. One new mall comes with a sculpture garden, punk bands and toilet stalls covered in protest art murals. At every turn, its easy to nd Korean barbecues, Iranian kebabs, artisan beer, African espresso, even dancing girls seductively swaying to a remarkable variety of world beats. Along the concrete banks of the muddy estuary that gave Kuala Lumpur its name, east now meets not only west but Middle East, South Asia melds with North Africa, North Asia goes tropicalmaking the old tourist landmarks and itineraries increasingly irrelevant. Six years back, I gladly left a posting in sleepy old K.L., a town where local action meant ring-tailed monkeys climbing from primary rainforest onto my apartment balcony, and where the only traffic jams were the result of Friday prayers at the mosque, a golf tournament or a sale at 90
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Asias largest Ikea. In the shadow of a few incongruously huge skyscrapers, lost Europeans in ip-ops staggered amidst mobs of Malay secretaries resplendent in oral dresses that guaranteed social modesty and also provided most of the towns colour. Crisscrossed by brand-new freeways, the last vestiges of colonial England had melded in the heat with one vast Los Angeles-style suburb. These days, Kuala Lumpur has nally taken its place as another of the regions bona de mega-citiesnot merely more dense, more intense and overbuilt with a glut of luxury shopping malls, but a truly globalized metropolis. Breaking from its Chinese-Malay-Indianreally HokkienBugis-Tamilroots, drawing on its links to the Islamic world, energized by a host of new migrant communities and spurred on by its young people, many of whom are educated abroad, the new Kuala Lumpur is a place where worlds dont just collide but collaborate. On a night tour of the new K.L., my steadfast guide Alex Yong, a tall and taciturn reporter turned art-space manager, has plenty of unusual options up his sleeve. He barely has to climb one level of stores from MAP, whose ample White Box and Black Box galleries are packed with year-round programmes of alternative dance, comedy, paintings, local fashion design and avant-garde installations, to nd the

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Clockwise from right: Inside the aptly named Sahara Tent; belly dancing at De Kebab; a skateboarding competition at KUL Sign 2012, KLs festival of urban art; in the heart of Koreatown; a taste of Africa; the fare at The Magnicent Fish and Chips Bar. Opposite: At Wat Tha Chetawan.

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citys newest venue for belly-dancing. On an open-air balcony where the lit minarets of the massive city mosque provide an atmospheric backdrop, our one-in-a-thousand night begins with some decidedly non-Arabic if scantily clad entertainers drawn from a nearby dance studio. Never mind. If the sources of sin in this town remain rather tame, thats part of the charm. But Alex now whizzes his tiny Proton at urgent speeds to a club hidden discreetly within the modern new CAPS Square district. Within the dark connes of the Mehl Bollywood Lounge, young beauties from India sit listlessly in a row of on-stage chairs, taking turns in pairs thrusting hips and wildly swinging bangled arms to a superb house singers plaintive versions of the latest Indo-pop hits. Women, too, are entirely welcome at this one-of-a-kind, only-in-K.L. venue that seems less sinful than simply sinuous. But Alex insists he knows another oor show thats far more surreal. Drawn by the politics of dancing, were joined on the next outing by Hishamuddin Rais. Hes one of Malaysias leading dissidents, underground lmmakers and blog commentators, usually happy to hang out amidst the reliable multiculturalism of roti parlours and durian sellers in Brickelds, K.L.s oldest and most hard-core Indian quarter. Years of exile have hardly dampened his curiosity and were soon sharing a table in the one massive, chandeliered ballroom that comprises the Pyongyang restaurantrun by and for the nearby North Korean embassy. Betting a nation in semi-permanent famine, the 92
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food here is nothing to write home about, slightly cruder executions of the usual Korean specialties like short ribs and seafood pancakes. Maybe the restaurant has something to do with Malaysias easygoing welcome of every and any nationality and inuence, though the service staff in owing hanbok gowns, clearly hand-picked to put a pretty face on their country, have all been trained to give the pre-rehearsed reply, Malaysia too hot. I miss my homeland. To prove the point, these servers change into Cinderella drag and then belt out paeans to North Koreas Mount Paektu displayed on videoscreens around the restaurant, heightening the crowds bafflement, if not spirits. The karaoke draws Hishams cackles. Malaysia is a land fated to serve as merry mix-up. The most obvious sign of Kuala Lumpurs international aspirations can be seen in the city skyline; in the iconic, 88-storey Petronas Twin Towers. Yet the nations big global shift really began with what happened to New Yorks twin towers on 9/11. Ostracized from the west by new suspicions and security procedures, free-spending Middle Eastern tourists looked towards welcoming Muslim realms for holidaying, setting off a summertime invasion that came to be known in Malaysia as the Arab season. By now, its turned into a year-round encampment. Never mind that the citys Ain Arabia, a Middle Eastern bazaar championed by Ala Salih, the hard-charging Iraqi owner of the popular Sahara Tent restaurant, consists solely of a ceremonial gate

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Clockwise from far le: A Nepalese meal at Khukri; Michael Wilson, Australian owner of Artisan Roaster, a suburban KL coee bar; inside Wat Tha Chetawan, a Buddhist temple in suburban KL; a grati artist near the Klang River at KUL Sign 2012, a festival of urban art. Opposite: Tokyo Street, a Japanese-themed area in the Pavilion mall.

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WorldMags.net Kuala Lumpur has become the in spot. Its sidewalk cafes offer a chance for foreigners to engage in casual conversations that cross cafe tables and cultural boundaries

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A gallery in the suburban Publika mall. Opposite: Jalan Sultan Ismail replicates a taste of the Middle East in Kuala Lumpur.

to a nondescript side street. The ambience of downtowns Bukit BintangK.L.s combination of tacky Times Square aspiring to palm-fringed Champs-lyseshas gone from one big Chinese foot massage parlour into a far-ung adjunct to Abu Dhabi. And just as the city has become the in spot for visiting Arabs to loosen their burnooses and experience an Islamic society with far fewer personal constraints, so its sidewalk cafs offer a chance for foreigners to engage in casual conversations that cross caf tables and cultural boundaries. I had a debate with a Saudi man over gay rights as I watched his wife struggle to eat gelato through her veil. Its cuisine, as much as any interpretations of the Koran, that has tilted the city towards a decidedly more halal identity. Six years back, it was remarkable to see the rst Lebanese restaurant, Tarbush, and the Iranian Naabnow both successful chains. Nowadays, such places arent just for group tours from the Persian Gulf. Malays, Indians and Chinese have united around basic purveyors of kebabs, and dips have become de rigueur in every district. The Iraqiinuenced Sahara Tent, still satisfying with its hearty lamb stews, has opened a Shah Alam suburban outlet that offers private parties staged within an indoor, fully carpeted tent. Al-Awan has won awards for its higher quality menu served on white tablecloths. Today, culinary reference points to the Middle Eastern world include Bosphorus, the Turkish

restaurant on the top oor of the high-end Pavillion Mall, which attempts to recreate Topkapi Palace favourites like imam bayeldi (the Sultan fainted), a meze of roasted eggplant lled with onion, garlic and tomato. Several eateries emblazoned as Hadrawmat, while hardly authentic, represent the avours of that area of Yemen which rst sent Islam to this region via its roaming traders. The latest outpost to bring distant Muslim worlds to the Malaysian capital is Hammam, which somehow replicates the heated stone lairs of Morocco, along with various womens beauty treatments, all inside a mall in Bangsar, the enclave west of downtown that has long housed K.L.s latest galleries, dance clubs and trends. And with Malaysia as the main Southeast Asian country to maintain great relations with the renegade republic of Iran, a decidedly Persian presence continues to grow. Non-aligned as ever, the country has become a good place to obtain both Cuban cigars and Persian carpets. Nearly a quarter-million Iranians, from students to retirees, have now found refuge here. Both their active agitation against the regime of mullahs back home, and drug smuggling exposed in highly publicized busts, continue to cause tension. Yet during Persian New Year in March, visitors can catch all-star concerts of Irans top musical divas. Aside from visiting Iran itself, Kuala Lumpur may be the best place to sample Irans famed almonds, yogurt, dates or caviar. Here, the most traditional Iranian dishes like mirza ghasemi, a lusciously charred eggplant dip topped by a poached egg, and sekanjabin, a sort of cucumber and mint smoothie, have become veritable Malaysian staples. Despite dozens of imitators, the best place to try these may still be Naab, with its comfortable interior in mud colours evoking the Persian desert, a restaurant opened out of nostalgia by a wealthy Iranian doctor. In comparison, Koreans are a much smaller community, though their number is expanding rapidly and they may be the most visible, with their own school. If you cant follow Korean executive wives to Malaysias many inexpensive golf links, theres always the four squareblock Koreatown across from the Ampang Point Mall. Its hardly a scenic area, but it is crammed with grocers, beauty parlours and cafs, even authentic bulgogi barbecues and enough varieties of kimchi in one stroll to make for an easy, virtual trip to Seoul. The Japanese community, centred largely in high-income Mont Kiara, has produced no similar meeting point. A fabricated Little Tokyo on the sixth-oor of the shining Pavilion Mall attempts to give some avour of Malaysias former occupiers with arcades of tea and ramen shops. For a more pleasant evocation of Asian neighbours, Alex brakes for the one Thai temple, Wat Chetawan, set on a green compound in distant Petaling Jaya and offering the usual glimpses of glittering gold-leaf images of the Buddha accompanied by, if you so choose, a traditional Thai massage. The Burmese, Nepalese and Bangladeshis who now do much of the nations dirty work are slowly adding their cultureand blaring musicto the blocks around Chinatown and the Puduraya Bus Station. For a steadfastly bland town where much of the old architecture has been blasted away, the enclave around Jalan Tun Tan Siew Sin
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Clockwise from le: Alvin Lim, owner of TAPS brewpub; a jazz musician performs at No Black Tie; inside The Magnicent Fish and Chips.

seems more wildly alive, prime territory for gawking, than the shrunken remains of nearby Little India. In the heat and crowds around cheap goods and remittance agencies, moneychangers and sari salesmen, its not always easy to decipher the many scripts of signboards hovering above. Up a narrow walk-up, the top gathering point for Nepalese is The Khukri, a basic, yellow-painted concrete chamber that also hosts music performances. The menu is unapologetic, though somewhat of an acquired taste. But to earn global laurels, a city cant just be a refuge from world horrors; it must be a touchstone of world advancement. To that end, K.L. boasts a whole new brace of consciously cutting-edge outposts. Only in this city could one cruise through the distant bedroom community of T.T.D.I. (Tam Tun Dr. Ismail) and nd a just-opened temple of caffeine to rival any in Italy. Forget about kopi o, the over-sweetened Arabica sludge that has been the only option for local java for decades. Amidst brick and concrete at Artisan Roast, where Aussie Michael Wilsona two-metre-tall presence in black sarong and necklace of ivory beadsand his Malaysian wife have selected some of the nest single-origin organic beans on earth: on hand this day are Musasa from Rwanda that Wilson describes as a journey through an exotic orchard and Guatemalas 96
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Finca Santa Clara, with notes of plum and ripe guava. With loving care, they are not just roasted in Kuala Lumpur but brewed in cylindrical beakers, with test-tube accuracy to the whir of timers and thermometers, producing non-acidic cups best savoured straight and black. This is not only the most astounding caffeine in the city, but perhaps in all Asia. Similarly new and international in ambience, TAPS aspires to be K.L.s rst true brew pub, and has carefully selected an amazing range of mostly Australian craft ales and Pilseners for leisurely sampling in special draught ve-packs. One long row of taps take centrestagestrange brews like Old Engine Oil, IPA Punk and Kooinda Valhallain this no-frills drinking spot that also offers sports on large screens, sans the usual rowdiness. Then theres Publika, a most internationalized sort of mall, a steel-encased arcade that bills itself as an arts and culture centre and urges its patrons to RIOT NOT RETAIL! A circular stage in its piazza has become a centre for new theatre, music and subtle forms of rebellion, right across from Malaysias new court for enforcing Islamic family law. Dont

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misswell, you cant if you look for chairs on the ceilingthe indoor-outdoor restaurant Journal by Plan B, where New York deli intersects with Melbourne coffee house. A mainstay of international culture, the cosy and acoustically perfect No Black Tie, run with aplomb by Sarawak-bred classical pianist Evelyn Hii, is the place to hear experimental musical talent. I tried to make a club where any musician, of any style, instantly feels at home, she says. More international still, if more corporate, the Westin Hotels QBA presents the citys only live Cuban dance bands, mostly Colombian these days, thumping out distant beats from a surprising setting of baroque Spanish colonial balconies. Around the corner, amidst the night spots of Changkat Bukit Bintang, The Magnicent Fish and Chips Bar seems more like the latest in the exotic than a holdout of Malaysias former British masters, with its battered barramundi and Guinness pies, run by a potty chef who rst came to Asia to feed rescued chimpanzees. Perhaps this is the last reminder of Malaysias loyalty to a foreign land. Now the whole world is here. Welcome to Southeast Asias global showcase.

Kuala Lumpur
A N DA M A N SEA

THAILAND

CAMBODIA VIETNAM

SOUTH CHINA SEA

MALAYSIA

KUALA LUMPUR
SINGAPORE

INDONESIA SUMATRA
I N DI A N OE A N

N
0 400 MI 644 KM

STAY Berjaya 1 Jln. Imbi; 60-3/2141-0088; berjayahotel.com; doubles from RM268. Prince Hotel & Residence 4 Jln. Conlay; 60-3/21708888; princehotelkl. com; doubles from RM315. Ritz-Carlton 168 Jln. Imbi; 60-3/2142-8000; ritzcarlton.com; doubles from RM510. Saujana Jln. Lapangan Terbang Saas; 60-3/78431234; thesaujanakualalumpur.com; doubles from RM357. Sheraton Imperial Jln. Sultan Ismail; 60-3/2717-9900; starwoodhotels.com; doubles from RM355. EAT Artisan Roast 4 Lorong Rahim Kajai, 14 Taman Tun Dr. Ismail; no phone; coee for two RM10. Bosphorus Level 6, KL Pavillion, Jln. Bukit Bintang; 60-3/21424000; bosphorus. com.my; dinner for two RM85. De Kebab D5-G406, Solaris Dutamas,

T L Guide
Getting There Malaysian Airlines operates regular ights from Delhi and Mumbai to Kuala Lumpur while Air Asia oers connections from Bangalore, Kolkata, Kochi, and Chennai. Visas are mandatory and can be obtained from the High Commission of Malaysia (50-M, Satya Marg, Chanakyapuri, Delhi; 91-11/2611-1291) and cost Rs 1,000.

Jln. Dutamas 1; 60-3/6205-3580; lunch/dinner for two RM90. Journal by Plan B 1 Jln. Dutamas; Publika; 60-3/62055318; thebiggroup. co/planb; dinner for two RM140. Khukri Nepali Restaurant No. 26 First Floor Jln. Tun Tan Siew Sin; 60-3/2072-0663; khukri.com; lunch/ dinner for two RM40. The Magnicent Fish and Chips Bar 28 Changkat Bukit; 60-3/2142-7021; dinner for two RM75. Mehl Bollywood Lounge CAPS Square E Centre, Ground Floor, No. 8 Persiaran Capsquare; 60-1/9222-8287; drinks for two RM60. Naab Restaurant 130 Jln. Bukit Bintang; 60-3/ 2143-3949; naabrestaurant.com; dinner for two RM80. No Black Tie Jazz Club 17 Jln. Mesui o Jln. Nagasari; 60-3/2142-3737; noblacktie.com.my; cover charge for two RM80.

Pyonyang North Korean Restaurant 290A Lorong Palas, o Jln. Ampang; 60-3/4257-9986; dinner for two RM80. QBA Latin Dance Bar Westin Hotel, 199 Jln. Bukit Bintang; 60-3/ 2731-8333; drinks for two RM60. Sahara Tent 41 & 43 Jln. Sultan Ismail (in Bukit Bintang); 60-3/2144-8310; saharatent.com; dinner for two RM100. TAPS Beer Bar One Residency, 1 Jln. Nagasari; 60-3/ 2110-1560; tapsbeerbar.cmy; drinks for two RM60. DO Hammam Top oor, Bangsar Village II Mall, Bangsar; 60-3/2282-2180; treatments from RM85. MAP Solaris Dutamas, Jln. Dutamas 1; mapkl. org; 60-3/62079732. Wat Chetawan No. 24 Jln. Pantai o Jln. Gasing, Petaling Jaya; 60-3/79572255.

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Our Denitive Guide to

The Door Was Open . . . , a chandelier by Nicholas Folland, at the Museum of Contemporary Art Australia, in the Rocks district , in Sydney, Australia. Opposite: Icebergs Dining Room & Bar, overlooking Bondi Beach.

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A thriving contemporary art scene. Game-changing restaurants. One-of-akind shops. The stylish harbour city has it alland more. Mark Ellwood gets the scoop. Photographed by Petrina Tinslay

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From le: Marking Time, a group installation at the Museum of Contemporary Art Australia. A work in berglass by Jiao Xingtao at White Rabbit Gallery.

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Lay of the Land

The citys latest cultural spots (beyond the Opera House).

Owner Sally Breens gallery may be tucked away on the third oor of a nondescript building near Chinatown, but dont let that fool you: inside are works by Australias top talent, including Mitch Cairns and Simryn Gill. 17-19 Alberta St., level 3; breenspace.com.

See+Do
In a converted 1880 rail yard in Eveleigh, this multi-venue per formance space has been painstakingly preserved. The original cavernous brick-walled interiors house Sydneys most progressive theatre and contemporary art. A highlight: Playwriting Australia, a series of plays by local writers. 245 Wilson St.; carriageworks. com.au.

Five need-to-know neighbourhoods. CBD The Central Business District is home to the Sydney Opera House, Harbour Bridge, and top hotels. THE ROCKS Centuries-old cobblestoned streets are lled with outdoor cafs and boutiques.

BREENSPACE

CARRIAGEWORKS

Carve out an aernoon to explore the new wing of Sydneys Museum of Contemporary Art. On view: Volume One: MCA Collection where you can discover the works of more than 170 Australian artists reecting the breadth of the last 20 years. 140 George St.; mca. com.au.

MCA AUSTRALIA

The well-curated collection of modern Chinese art at this spacious gallery was assembled by longtime collector Judith Neilson, one of Australias richest women. Fortunately, her taste level more than matches her deep pockets. We love artist Cang Xins 2007 sculptural series. 30 Balfour St.; white rabbitcollection.org.

WHITE RABBIT GALLERY

DARLINGHURST Bustling and chic Oxford Street is the main arteryand essentially the SoHo of Sydney. SURRY HILLS The onetime garment district is now a bohemian enclave with funky shops and some of the citys most creative restaurants. BONDI This world-famous surng beach is just a 20-minute drive east of downtown. GETTING AROUND The best way to navigate the city is on foot, so pack a pair of walking shoes. Tired? Cabs are also handy (USD 15 for 10 minutes) and can be hailed on the street.

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Shop
Where to nd the best Aussie designers, housewares, and more.
Swing by the 1 Intersection Paddington (Oxford St. and Glenmore Rd.; theintersectionpaddington.com. au), a high-end emporium carrying avant-garde and traditional Australian labels. Browse Alannah Hills colourful dresses fit for Katy Perry (No. 118-120); yummy-mummy staple Sass & Bide (No. 132), with its slinky denim and vintage-inspired separates; and Dinosaur Designs (No. 339), a local mainstay known for its Day-Glo resin jewellery and housewares. 2 He Made She Made (70 Oxford St.; hemadeshemade.com) sells whimsical art and furniture, including graffiti-covered chairs, by emerging regional designers. 3 Donna Hay General Store (40 Holdsworth St.; donnahay.com), on a quiet residential corner in Woollahra, is run by Australias Martha Stewart. The designer has converted an old house into a pastel-coloured shop filled with her signature streamlined products: 1940s-style ceramics in white or seafoam green, scented candles, and white enamel bakeware. Drop in to 4 Victor Churchill (132 Queen St.; victorchurchill.com.au), even if you dont need picnic fixings. This butchers shop looks like Willy Wonkas meat-minded counterpart, down to the cast-bronze sausage links that serve as the front-door handle. Dont miss the house-made goodies to go: mushroom tarts with Parmesan and parsley butter, duck rillettes, or galettes with smoked salmon and artichoke hearts.
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From top: An abstract resin ring by Dinosaur Designs; the He Made She Made concept gallery. Below: The lobby at the Darling, in Sydney.

Stay

The six places to bunk down right noweach with a view of the harbour, of course.
Rooms at this gem on Woolloomooloo Wharf are lo-style, with exposed beams and plush beds set against a chocolatebrown and aquamarine palette. BEST FOR Stylish quarters o the beaten path. tajhotels.com. $$

BLUE

Sexy and cuttingedgethats how to describe the newest addition to Darling

THE DARLING

Harbour. Theres black-and-red ecked wallpaper in the low-lit corridors, and the push of a button lowers your rooms blinds, turns on the TV, and adjusts the air temperature, all at the same time. BEST FOR Hipsters in search of a scene. thedarling.com.au. $$

spacious outdoor pool, this classic in the Rocks never disappoints. BEST FOR Unbeatable service. fourseasons. com. $$$

access to sightseeing. hilton.com. $$

From the sky-high atrium lobby to the clubby hotel bar and

FOUR SEASONS

The glass-walled tower, designed by architects Johnson Pilton Walker (the team behind the Opera House makeover), is a quick stroll from the main landmarks. BEST FOR Easy

HILTON

Fronting the Sydney Opera House and Harbour Bridge, the Park Hyatt occupies the citys most coveted location. A USD 68 million renovation only adds to its allure, with new oor-to-ceiling windows and amenities from cult perfumer Le Labo. BEST FOR Knockout views. park. hyatt.com. $$$$

PARK HYATT

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Reuben Hills coee shop, in Surry Hills.

Eat
From haute cuisine to comfort-food classics, Sydney has a restaurant for every type of traveller.

Retro-style Gardels Bar is like a vintage supper club with comfy leather booths, leopardskin throws, and a young, tattooed sta. Come for the juicy chorizo-andoctopus skewers and hot dogs topped with chilli and fried onions, then chance a game on the 1940s foosball table. 358 Cleveland St.; gardelsbar.com.au. $$

Hidden in the industrial backstreets of Surry Hills, Reuben Hills is the place to sample the citys best coee, Aussie-style: ask for a awless at white from the apronclad barista strolling the oorhell take your order on his iPad. 61 Albion St.; reubenhills. com.au.

Drink
In a city known for its beer, cocktail lounges are the newest obsession.

1 Text the number on the door of Sticky Bar (182 Campbell St., level 2)the bouncer will appear within minutes to whisk you to the top oor; order a Lovegun (amaretto, Campari, and orange juice). 2 Mad-scientist-style cocktails are made using such ingredients as liquid nitrogen at the Roosevelt (32 Orwell St.; theroosevelt.com.au). Try the Martini of Tomorrow. 3 For a standout negroni (and a 300-bottle wine list), head to Love, Tilly Devine (91 Crown Lane; lovetillydevine.com).

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The citys latest hot spot? Neild Avenue, in Rushcutters Bay. Mezestyle dishes are the draw heretheres four-cheese arancini (deep-fried rice balls), bualo halloumi, and baked duck-egg custards. The funky interiors, with paintings of centaurs on the walls, were designed by ItalianAustralian duo Lazzarini Pickering. 10 Neild Ave.; idrb.com. $$$

A bright blue doorway welcomes you to El Loco, which serves some of the nest Mexican food in the city, thanks to renowned chef Dan Hong. Sydneysiders gather at the colourful tables to munch on pork, beef, prawn, chicken, and tofu tacos doused in mouth-watering toppings. 64 Foveaux St.; elloco.com. $$

Run by bad-boy chef Matt Moran, Australias answer to Anthony Bourdain, Chiswick dishes up signature unfussy modern food: woodroasted lamb from Morans family farm, vitello tonnato sliders, and heirloomtomato salad with crushed green olives. Caveat: tables ll up quickly, so call at least two weeks ahead. 65 Ocean St.; 61-2/83888688; chiswickrestaurant. com.au. $$$

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From le: Steamed spanner crab with autumn salad at Icebergs Dining Room & Bar; Cooper Park, in Woollahra; Artisan Focacceria, in Darlinghurst.

Local Take
Three Sydneysiders share their favourite spots in the city.
LOUISE OLSEN LIZ ANN MACGREGOR MATT MORAN

Cofounder, designer, and creative director of Dinosaur Designs

Where I go for... ...a swim in the ocean Brontea wonderful little cove

Chef, Chiswick restaurant

Where I go for... ...an afternoon pint Lord Dudley Public Bar (236 Jersey

Director of the Museum of Contemporary Art

Where I go for... ...an indulgent splurge

with a beach near Bondi. Theres great snorkelling.

...a relaxing Sunday lunch

Hands down, the cliffside Icebergs Dining Room & Bar (1 Notts Ave.; idrb.com; $$$), where you feel like youre sitting on the water.
...a casual cocktail and dinner At Miss Chu (178 Campbell Parade;
I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y L A U R E N N A S S E F

Rd.; lorddudley.com.au) is one of my go-to bars: you can actually sit there and have a beer quietly.

burning off calories after lunch Cooper Park has a huge hill

One of the most revered restaurants in Darlinghurst is Buon Ricordo (108 Boundary St.; buonricordo.com.au; $$$$), with truffle pasta to die for.
my morning caffeine jolt

thats great for running. Its very family-oriented, with tennis courts and plenty of open space.

I never pass up a flat white at

Artisan Focacceria takeout after work Lucio Pizzeria (248 Palmer St.;

an afternoon with my son

(230 Palmer St.; 61-2/9326-9227).

misschu.com.au; $$), you can order delicious Singapore Slings with spring rolls and fresh dumplings.

The citys best-kept secret is Gordons Bay. I go down to the beach with my little guy, and we feed the groupers.

luciopizzeria.com.au; $$$), in Darlinghurst, serves the best pizza in the city.

Beyond the City

Follow the weekend crowd two hours west to the Blue Mountains, Sydneys popular hilltop getaway. There, spend your days hiking the lush valley.

For an easier jaunt, hop a harbour ferry to the northern beaches on the citys outer edge and stroll the Victoria Parade in Manly.

Seeking a more tropical escape? Head 222 kilometres south to Jervis Bay, which looks like the backdrop of The Blue Lagoon: white sands lapped by clear, blue water teeming with rays.
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T+Ls Top 40+ Adventure Outfitters
by bree sposato, with additional reporting by nikki ekstein, nina fedrizzi and samai singh

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Choosing that next great trip into the outdoors means knowing what kind of adventure youre afterand finding the right outfitter to match. Weve created a directory of standout specialists for seven types of getaways, ranging from safaris to biking tours. But first, what traveller type are you? Answer the questions below and follow your path to a T+L exclusive trip. Plus, three Indian outfitters share their top adventure itineraries.
Discover your adventure personality.
art here st

So youre up for an adventure?

Definitely! Its all about the adrenaline rush...

...that you get...

...paddling through Class Five rapids.

Yes, but Im looking to keep my heart rate low (doctors orders).

...braving the wind and cold. Errr...even lower than that.

...in the company of lions...

...while...

Which can only be improved by...

How about cycling?

How do you feel about traditional homestays?

...dog. sledding sl lessons with an Alaskan musher. Sounds great especially if there are yurts.

...landing my 360 in two feet of fresh powder.

...army-crawling through the bush with biologists to track and tag them.

Can we break for Camembert and Bordeaux along the way Count way? me in.

Cmon, this is a vacation! Ill need turndown service...and a spa.

...emperor penguins. ins.

...sipping a ...s freshly made fres G&T from G& the guarded veranda of my luxury tent.

The GlamTrotter
Illustrated by Shreya Kharbanda

The Culture Buff

The Weekend Zoologist

The Thrill Seeker

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Trekking, Walking, and Biking

Alpine Ascents
Adrenaline-inducing mountaineering trips that tackle the worlds tallest peaks, including less extreme itineraries such as a sevenday hike up Tanzanias Mount Kilimanjaro. 1-206/378-1927; alpineascents.com.
t+l trip pick Volcanoes of Iceland Beginner er and intermediate climbers conquer Hvannadalshnkur, the countrys highest summit. JulySept. departures; nine days s from USD 5,000.

traveller type

The Glam-Trotter
An avid traveler whos not afraid to get her hands dirty (so long as theres a sink and top-quality soap nearby). The only thing better than seeing Machu Picchu last month? The bazillion-thread-count linens at the Sanctuary Lodge.
Role Model Meryl Streep in Out of Africa (before she sold her good china). Gear The Handpresso portable espresso maker, since theres no trek that cant be improved by a great Italian dark roast (USD 95; handpresso.com). Accessory Moncler Roxane jacket (USD 895; moncler.com). T+L Exclusive Trip Hiking the Amalfi Coast with Gray & Co. Trek in style on this Italian jaunt along ancient Roman coastal paths, which includes a private tour of the Blue Grotto, a cave on Capri, hilltop stargazing (with a cold glass of limoncello), and overnights at Le Sirenuse, in Positano. Yearround departures through 2012; seven days from USD 7,000.

Austin-Lehman Adventures
Outstanding guides lead multisport excursions through the American West, Central and South America, and beyond. austinlehman.com.
t+l trip pick California Wine Country Go sea kayaking in Tomales Bay to spot seals, cycle through Napa pa Valley, and hike area redwood forests. JuneOct. departures; six days from USD 2,898.

Country Walkers
Moderate and challenging walks (and a few small-ship cruises) in 80 destinations around the world with a roster of insider guides, such as Morocco native Saida Ezzahoui, an expert on native flora and fauna. countrywalkers.com.
t+l trip pick Turkey: Turquoise Coast Sail from Antalyas Old Town to Istanbul, with visits to little-known Roman ruins and secluded coves. Year-round departures; eight days from USD 4,298.

Butterfield & Robinson

Specializes in easy guided biking tours in culturally rich regions from Europe to Asia. New, more affordably priced Bistro trips in Europe adopt a cant-miss formula: a laid-back pace, stays at family-run inns, and good food. butterfield.com.
t+l trip pick Tuscany Bistro Biking Pedal through the charming Tuscan countryside, stopping to sample pecorino and taste wine in Chianti, Cortona, and Pienza. JuneOct. departures; six days from USD 3,995.

such as barrel tastings in h b l t ti Burgundys Bichot caveson her finely tuned walking and biking itineraries in Europe, South America, and more. 1-416/9984082; grayandco.ca.
t+l trip pick For a T+L reader exclusive hiking trip in Italy, see The Glam-Trotter.

t+l trip pick Via Alpina Stage Three From Gstaad, Switzerland, ascend 3,900 feet into the Alps, passing stunning glaciers, remote villages, and beautiful flowering meadows. Aug departures; seven days from USD 2,995.

VBT Bicycling & Walking Vacations

This 40-year-old Vermont-based operator leads relaxed bike tours in North America and Europe with an emphasis on food and history. vbt.com.
t+l trip pick Maryland: Cycling the Chesapeake Bay Ride over gently sloping hills, feast on crab, and stay at historic inns. Aug.Oct. departures; six days from USD 1,795.

Ryder-Walker Alpine Adventures

Serious treks through Western Europe (the Mont Blanc region; the Italian Dolomites), the Himalayas, and southeastern Utah. Accommodations vary by region, from luxury tents to intimate chalets. ryderwalker.com.

Gray & Co.

Founder Cari Gray offers behind-the-scenes experiences

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Local Culture
Adventures by Disney
Family-focussed, immersive trips range from spotting scarlet-throated frigate birds in the Galpagos to lessons in kite making in China. New trips for 2013 go to Cambodia, Laos, and Vietnam. adventuresbydisney.com.
t+l trip pick Jewels of Southeast Asia Explore Cambodias Angkor Wat, visit a working rice farm, and take a cruise down the Mekong River. Year-round departures; 12 days from USD 4,849.

experiences (storytelling in Ireland; a game of boules in Provence; visiting mask makers in Bali). Multiple route options appeal to all skill levels. backroads.com.
t+l trip pick Holland and Belgium: From the Dutch Countryside to Beautiful Bruges Pedal past flower fields, canals, and pitched-roof farmhouses, with stops to learn how to make Gouda cheese and to visit the unesco World Heritage site of Kinderdijk (known for its 19 preserved windmills). JulyAug. departures; six days from USD 4,198.

has written a memoir about growing up in rural Bhutan. boundlessjourneys.com.

t+l trip pick Bhutan: Across the Kingdom Explore temples, hike to Tigers Nest Monastery, and learn about shamanism on visits to traditional villages. Sept.Nov. departures; 18 days from USD 6,795.

Abercrombie & Kent

river & rail

Southern Africa by River and Rail (2013)

Brown & Hudson

This outfitter, founded by Philippe Brown, a 16-year luxury travel company veteran, creates bespoke private trips that explore the worldfrom Costa Rica to Cambodiathrough the lenses of food, wellness, and wine, to name a few. brownandhudson.com.
t+l trip pick Burma Study enlightenment with an abbot at a monastery, charter a plane into the rain forest, snorkel in the Mergui archipelago, and recharge at a traditional teak house. Year-round departures; seven days from USD 20,000.

The Highlights Float down the Chobe River on the Zambezi Queen; view game in a mokoro (dug-out canoe), in a 4x4 vehicle, on a walking safari and from your veranda; stop for sundowners; view Victoria Falls on a Flight of Angels helicopter ride; spend two nights on board Rovos Rail. The Details May 12, Aug 4, Nov 24, 2013 departures; 11 days from USD 11995 per person. trekking

Boundless Journeys
Culturally immersive itineraries in Africa, Asia, and Europe, among other places, are infused with the expertise of local staff such as Sangay Wangchuk, who

Backroads
Active travel (cycling; walking; sea kayaking; rock climbing) paired with unexpected cultural

Mount Kilimanjaro: The Roof of Africa by the Umbwe Route

SOTC
safari

SOTC Winter Kenya Safari 2012

The Highlights Land in Nairobi; en route to Masai Mara stop at the edge of the Great Ri Valley; witness the people of the Masai tribes; arrive at Masai Mara Reserve and check into the Mara Sentrim Lodge; go on a game drive into the Mara Reserve; walk along the river; explore Baboon Cli and Lake Nakuru; stay overnight at the lovely Mount Kenya Safari Club. The Details Departures through March 2013; six days from Rs 32,699 plus USD 899 per person including airfare, accommodation with breakfast, sightseeing, transfers. city & ocean

Classic Journeys
Unbeatable access to experiences around the globelearning firsthand about a family-run organic coffee plantation in the Galpagos; dining in a private home in Delhiare woven into every walking-based excursion, from Ireland to Bhutan. classicjourneys.com.
t+l trip pick For a T+L reader-exclusive trip in Turkey, see The Culture Buff.

The Highlights Ascend Africas highest peak via the Umbwe Route; marvel at landscapes that shi from montane forests to alpine desert to icy summit; Kilimanjaro trek is best suited for serious climbers. The Details October 19, November 2, 2013 departures; seven days from USD 3,995 per person.

An Arctic Cruise AdventurePolar Bear Country

cruise

SOTC Wonders of Australia 2012

The Highlights Your trip includes guided city tour of Melbourne Ground; a drive to the Great Ocean Road and the Twelve Apostles; Tangalooma Resort for a 4 wheel drive and feeding dolphins; view the scenic Gold Coast on a helicopter ride and visit Shark Bay and Polar Bear Shore at Sea World; spend a day at Movie World; head to Cairns and the Kuranda Rain Forest on Skyrail; go on a cruise to the Great Barrier Reef; enjoy the carnival atmosphere aboard the Sydney Show Boat Cruise; guided tour inside the Sydney Opera House, Sydney Tower, Sydney Aquarium and Sydney Wildlife World The Details Departures through March 2013; 11 days from Rs 71,999 plus USD 2,164 per person including return airfare, accommodation with breakfast, sightseeing, transfers. 1-800/209-3344; sotc.in.

G Adventures
Small groups, the use of local transportation and guides, and one-on-one connections are the cornerstones of the company formerly known as Gap Adventures. Hundreds of trips are on offer worldwide, but this year marks the companys

The Highlights: Join A&Ks expedition team for a trip to the High Arctic Svalbard archipelago in Norway, less than 1,000 kilometres from the North Pole; observe ora that comes alive under Julys midnight sun; search for the mighty polar bear; discover Greenlands Bronze Age villages, Eskimo settlements and shing enclaves; end your journey amid the volcanoes of Iceland. The Details Jul 16, 2013, departure; 15 days from USD 11,995 per person. 91-11/4600-1600; abercrombiekent.co.in.

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first foray into North America. gadventures.com.

t+l trip pick Guatemala Local Living Learn how to make tortillas and weave colourful textiles during a homestay in a village on Lake Atitln, in the central highlands. Nov.Dec. departures; eight days from USD 499.

t+l trip pick Shikoku and the Naoshima Islands of Japan Take a soba-making class, trace the old Shingon Buddhist pilgrimage route, and sleep at a ryokan. MayOct. departures; seven days from USD 5,665.

and sail to Rinca and Komodo islands to get up close to Komodo dragons. Apr.Nov. departures; 10 days from USD 3,950.

tour of Machu Picchu. AprilOct. departures; eight days from USD 4,320.

Tauck
This Connecticut-based company offers close to 100 trips, including river cruises in Europe and volunteer conservation programmes in Grand Teton National Park. tauck.com.
t+l trip pick Culturious Costa Rica Visit small villages and coffee plantations before taking a horseback ride through a private hacienda and kayaking through mangrove forest. Year-round departures; eight days from USD 2,770.

Red Savannah
All trips are tailor-made at this outfitter, opened last year by George Morgan-Grenville, a 24-year luxury travel veteran, and share an emphasis on meaningful interactions with locals in Africa, Asia, Europe, and the Middle East. Guides have at least 10 years of field experience. 44-1242/787-800; redsavannah.com.
t+l trip pick Machu Picchu, Trek in Style Meet indigenous Quechua people before taking a guided

Kensington Tours
A vast range of personalized itineraries, including working on archaeological digs in Israel and trekking to see gorillas in Rwanda, while staying in castles, ashrams, tropical tree houses, and tented safari camps. kensingtontours.com.
t+l trip pick Bali Orangutans and Dragons Explore Bali, fly to Indonesian Borneo to observe orangutans,

Geographic Expeditions
This trailblazer explores the remote corners of every continent using guides with extensive on-the-ground networks, such as San Franciscobased Vassi Koutsaftis, who has been leading trips into Burma, Tibet, and Nepal for 25 years. Newly added: a small selection of family trips. geoex.com.

Travcoa
Small-ship river cruises with immersive land excursions are Travcoas specialty. travcoa.com.
t+l trip pick Splendours of India with Sri Lanka and the Maldives Set sail from Mumbai on the 110-passenger Clipper Odyssey, stop for a cooking class in a Goan home, and snorkel among coral at Uligamu, a northern island of the Maldives. Nov. departures; 18 days from USD 11,480.

traveller type

The Culture Bu
Speaks four languages, two of which are extinct. Owns a collection of Etruscan pottery fragments thats the envy of the anthropology club. Recently acquired a rare shrunken head from the Shuar tribe of Peru.
Role Model Indiana Jones Gear Pantech Element, AT&Ts waterproof tablet, is ideal for research on the roador at the excavation site (USD 299; wireless.att.com). Accessory SteamLine Stylist Series luggage (from USD 280; steamline.com). T+L Exclusive Trip Turquoise Coast & Cappadocia with Classic Journeys. Start in Istanbul, then board a 70-foot gulet (teak yacht) to explore the coast. Along the way, see Cappadocia from a hot-air balloon and snorkel to ancient underwater ruins. Sept.Oct. departures; nine days from USD 4,795.

River and Ocean

Explorers Corner
Founder Olaf Malver often serves as a guide on his companys legendary expeditions into the polar regions; less intrepid, warm-water kayaking trips are also available. explorerscorner.com.
t+l trip pick Antarctica: The Ultimate Polar Wildlife Adventure Sail aboard the 54-foot Northanger, disembarking to

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traveller type

The Weekend Zoologist

Asked for a buttery net for fth birthday; at 10 it was a microscope. Spotted rare birds on four continents and is currently ranked No. 48 on the American Birding Associations competitive international list. After that black-grouse sighting at Loch Lomond, hopes to make it to No. 47 by years end.
Role Model Jack Hanna Gear Sony Cyber-shot Digital Camera (DSCTX200V). Its waterproof and dust-proof, and with its high-speed auto-focus, youll capture that hairy-nosed wombat every time (USD 499.99; store.sony.com). Accessory DPC Outdoors cotton/canvas mesh safari hat (USD 55; dorfman-pacific.com). T+L Exclusive Trip Rare Shoebill Safari with Journeys by Design. Channel your inner ornithologist on this Zambian safari, which has some of the best bird-viewing on the continent (rare shoebill storks; wattled cranes). Nov. March and May departures; seven days from USD 3,955.

t+l trip pick Middle Fork of the Salmon Rafting Descend 3,000 feet aboard a raft along the 177-kilometre-long river, pausing to view hot springs and to visit historic pioneer homesteads. JuneSept. departures; five days from USD 1,625.

Off the Grid

EpicQuest
The brainchild of serious athletes, EpicQuest leads active trips from skiing untouched terrain in Alaska to fishing off the Kenyan coast. epicquest.com.
t+l trip pick South American Ski Adventure Head to the Chilean Andes to tackle some of the worlds longest heli-skiing runs. JulySept. departures; eight days from USD 12,500.

Epic Tomato
This adventure-minded offshoot of tour operator Black Tomato creates extreme custom journeys such as 10-day treks in the Borneo jungle in search of the Penan tribe and horseback crossings of the Bolivian salt flats. Many guides have military and Special Forces backgrounds. 44-20/7426-9899; epictomato.com.
t+l trip pick For a readers-only jungle expedition in Malaysia, see The Thrill Seeker.

explore mountains and fjords and to camp atop the ice. Dec. 4 departure; 28 days from USD 16,900.

Mountain Travel Sobek

Frontiers International Travel

Founded more than four decades ago, this fishing outfitter has a huge global presence, with access to pristine spots from Canada to Mongolia. frontierstravel.com.
t+l trip pick Bahamas: Delphi Club on Abaco Island Excellent bonefish trolling for serious anglers; the intimate eight-room Delphi Club serves as a base, with access to a golf course and a white-sand beach. Oct.June departures; four days from USD 3,532.

More than 40 years of experience arranging hiking, trekking, rafting, and kayaking excursions, with group or private itineraries. 888/831-7526; mtsobek.com. t+l trip pick Alaska: Rafting the Tatshenshini River Brave Class Two and Three rapids for more than 210 kilometres through the worlds largest contiguous wilderness area, passing icebergs and stopping to walk among mountain goats and spot bald eagles. JuneSept. departures; nine days from USD 3,195.

with stays in comfortable jungle lodges, cabin barges, and tented camps. rodgunresources.com.
t+l trip pick Bolivian Adventure The companys first venture in Bolivia goes to the remote Cao Negro River, home to the exotic peacock bass. JulyDec. departures; four days from USD 3,895.

Lindblad Expeditions
Its small-group, naturebased trips aboard expedition ships equipped with kayaks and Zodiacs go to such farflung destinations as Alaska, Antarctica, and the upper Amazon. 1-212/765-7740; expeditions.com.
t+l trip pick Impressions of Northern Norway The 148-passenger National Geographic Explorer

Row Adventures
This outfitter now runs landbased trips, but its main focus remains white-water rafting in Idaho, Montana, Oregon, Ecuador, and the Galpagos. Environmental scientist Peter Metcalf shares his in-depth knowledge on trips down the Middle Fork of the Salmon River, in Idaho. rowadventures.com.

Rod & Gun Resources

Fishing trips to Alaska, the Amazon, Argentina, and beyond,

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STRATEGIES

travels from the polar-bear-filled Arctic Svalbard south to Nordland, where reindeer roam along fjords. July 13, 2013, departure; 13 days from USD 9,999.

Momentum Adventure
Created in 2008 by mountain climber Matthew Robertson, the U.K.-based group leads daring multi-sport forays (capped at six travellers each), including pioneering ski trips in Lebanon and Kashmir and canoe trips in the Yukon. 44-1892/784-646; momentumadventure.com. t+l trip pick The Last Degree A combination of flights and serious trekking from Chile to the South Pole. Nov.Jan. departures; 21 days from USD 80,000.

helicopters but also biologists, historians, and ornithologists ply remote polar waters in comfort. This year, Quark launched hot-air balloons on select North Pole trips. quarkexpeditions.com.
t+l trip pick Antarctic Express Fly over the Drake Passage, on the southern tip of South America, then board the 61-cabin Clipper Adventurer to spot glaciers, penguins, and whales (polar camping is optional). Feb. 2013 departures; eight days from USD 7,995.

t+l trip pick Trekking in the Hindu Kush Cross glaciers, rivers, and pastures as you journey from the Yarkhun River region to the glacier- and river-filled Ishkoman Valley in northern Pakistan. May 11, 2013, departure; 17 days from USD 3,713.

view a private Masai dance performance, and camp near the Ngorongoro Crater. Sept. Dec. departures; 15 days from USD 13,470.

Cox & Kings

Founded in 1758, Cox & Kings is one of the worlds longestrunning travel companies and has a global portfolio with jungle excursions, culinarily focussed tours, sea voyages and extraordinary safaris. coxandkingsusa.com.
t+l trip pick Portrait of Kenya Spot Somali ostriches and reticulated giraffes in Samburu National Reserve, balloon over the Masai Mara savanna, and adopt an elephant at the Daphne Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage. JulyOct. departures; 12 days from USD 9,835.

Safari
Abercrombie & Kent
Trips in more than 100 countries with an emphasis on Africa, where well-appointed mobile tented camps ensure that travellers view wildlife in comfort, whether theyre tracking the Great Migration in East Africa or gliding through Botswanas Okavango Delta in dugout canoes. abercrombiekent.com.
t+l trip pick Wings Over the Migration Follow the Great Migration,

Wild Frontiers
British journalist Jonny Bealby founded the Londonbased Wild Frontiers, which has multi-sport trips (rafting; trekking; horseback riding) in 40 countries. 44-20/7736-3968; wildfrontiers.co.uk.

Quark Expeditions
Quarks ice-class vessels equipped with not only

Journeys by Design
traveller type

The Thrill Seeker

Keeps his souvenirs where he can see them. That scar on his forehead? From a hang-gliding mishap in Rio. The mark on his knee? Cave diving in Borneo. Likes to start the day with a nice bowl of fear. Thats right: he eats fear for breakfast.
Role Model Bear Grylls Gear North Faces Powder Guide ABS vest: inflatable nitrogen airbag pouches protect the wearer in the event of an avalanche or rock and tree collisions. (USD 1,300; northface.com). Accessory Revos Waterway Titanium sunglasses (USD 249; revo.com). T+L Exclusive Trip T+L Borneo Trip with Epic Tomato. Fly a Twin Otter aircraft into Borneos interior, where youll drive an ATV along the Selungo River and visit Gunung Mulu National Park, which has the worlds largest cave chambers. MarchOct. departures; 15 days from USD 10,275.

Founder and environmental scientist Will Jones designs trips to eastern and southern Africa, where he spent 25 years. 1-315/9556842; journeysbydesign.com.
t+l trip pick See The Weekend Zoologist, for a reader-exclusive Zambia trip for bird lovers.

Ker & Downey

This community- and conservation-minded outfitter has led tours through Africa, India, and South America for more than 50 years. kerdowney. com.
t+l trip pick Primates of Africa Come within 15 feet of habituated gorillas in the Republic of the Congo and Rwanda. MayDec. departures; 17 days from USD 13,195.
PHOTO CREDIT

Micato Safaris
Bespoke safaris in eastern and southern Africa and India with on-the-ground experts. Guide Alan Petersen has led David

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Beckham and Robert De Niro. micato.com.

t+l trip pick Discover Africas Heritage Visit unesco-protected areas such as Kenyas Lake Nakuru and Zanzibars Stone Town. Yearround departures; 12 days from USD 11,525.

500 Places Where You Can Make a Difference, is leading service trips to Haiti. 1-617/661-0203; elevatedestinations.com.
t+l trip pick South Africa Fair-Trade Safari A rhino safari is followed by volunteer work at the Dyer Island Conservation Trust, which protects endangered species, including the African penguin. Year-round departures; 10 days from USD 5,650.

Asia Transpacific Journeys

With 25 years of experience in the region, Asia Transpacific Journeys operates both group and private trips through Asia and the Pacific. asiatranspacific. com.
t+l trip pick Sacred Mountain Kingdoms Tibet, Nepal, and Bhutan Meet monks in remote monasteries, observe a riverside Hindu ceremony, and explore ancient temples. April 11, 2013, departure; 20 days from USD 10,495.

Emerging Destinations
Western China
Why Now The culturally rich region of Diqing provides a glimpse of Tibetan culture without the red tape, and now its easier to reach, thanks to a new road that connects the area to major cities. Dont Miss The scenic and remote Tibetan village of Benzilan, located in northwestern Yunnan province. How to Visit Along the Tea and Horse Caravan Trail with Abercrombie & Kent. 15 days from USD 12,400.

Voluntourism
Biosphere Expeditions
This non-profit runs wildlife volunteer expeditions that connect travellers with conservation researchers in the field. biosphereexpeditions.org.
t+l trip pick Namibia Help wildlife ranchers collar and monitor leopards and collect demographic data on African cat populations in central Namibia. July-Nov. departures; 12 days from USD 2,423.

Regional Specialists
Aracari
This Peruvian-owned company organizes low-altitude hikes and extreme treks in Peru, Bolivia, and the Galpagos. It has strong relationships with local communities. 1-312/239-8726; aracari.com.
t+l trip pick Lodge to Lodge Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu Follow the picturesque Salkantay Route to Machu Picchu and stay in luxury lodges. MarchDec. departures; 10 days from USD 3,130.

Matuet
This So Paulo, Brazilbased company offers customized yacht cruises on the Amazon, wildlife tours in the wetland regions of the Pantanal, and treks through the canyonlands of Chapada Diamantina National Park. 55-11/3071-4515; matuete.com.
t+l trip pick Lenis Maranhenses Go by foot, land, and air from So Paulo to Rio de Janeiro, stopping to explore Lenis Maranhenses National Parka sandy landscape with thousands of freshwater lagoons. Year-round departures; 15 days from USD 7,500.

Burma
Why Now After decades of isolation, Burma is an untouched portrait of Buddhist traditions and culture. Dont Miss The Shwedagon Pagodawhose dome is covered with 60 tonnes of gold. How to Visit Dream Trip Myanmar: Into the Heart of Burma with Cox & Kings. 11 days from USD 7,665.

Elevate Destinations
All of Elevates trips focus on community development; many are created to deal with current events. This year, guide Andrew Mersmann, author of Frommers

Mozambique
Why Now The country is rehabilitating the wildlife-rich Gorongosa National Park and Niassa National Reserve. Dont Miss Dhow sailing and wild camping around the Quirimbas Archipelago. How to Visit Private Dhow Sailing Adventure with Journeys by Design. 12 days from USD 5,995.

Cox & Kings

river cruise & jungle trekking

Explore Taman Negara, Malaysia

Off the Beaten Path

Co-founders Bill and Pam Bryan deliver the ultimate American West experience. Veteran guide Darrell Norman, a member of the Blackfeet tribe, arranges traditional dinners with tribe members in his Montana residence. offthebeatenpath.com.
t+l trip pick Alaskas Winter Magic Spend time with a family of husky trainers, then strap on snowshoes and peer up at the northern lights. MarchApril 2013 departures; six days from USD 3,795.

Highlights The jungle at Taman Negara (National Park) is 130 million years old. Indulge in activities like river cruises; jungle trekking; canopy walk; cave exploration; observation hides (simple huts built high above the ground) that allow you to stay overnight to observe animals. The Details Three days from Rs 26,139 per person (ex Delhi) including stay; daily buet breakfast; airport transfers and sightseeing.

Patagonia
Why Now Luxe new lodgings, easier road access, and more flights are making this remote area more accessible. Dont Miss Horseback riding with gauchos in Chiles Torres del Paine National Park. How to Visit Bespoke Patagonia with Gray & Co. Eight days from USD 12,000.

Valley Of Flowers

trekking

The Highlights Visit Haridwar, Auli, Ghangaria, Badrinath and the Valley of Flowers National Park. The park starts from Ghangaria but the main valley starts aer crossing the gorge. Almost 300 species of wild owers bloom here in the peak period from mid July to mid-August. The Details Eight days from Rs 29,999 per person (ex Delhi); including stay; entire round trip journey (ex Delhi) by a/c Indigo/Innova; daily meals except only breakfast at Haridwar. 91-22/2270-9161; coxandkings.com.

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Photographer Massimo Casal Interviewed by Richard Hermes

Mui Ne, Vietnam

Ive always been fascinated by how the environmental conditions and wind around Mui Ne have created this surreal landscape. Its amazing and incongruous because it feels like youre looking at Vietnamese vendors in the middle of the Sahara desert. I took this shot in the morning, when the light was low and gave each dune a different hue. The sky was actually a little cloudy that day, but the blue was still bright enough to make a striking contrast with the yellow-orange of the sand. I think that contrast is what I like most about this picture. I tend to take close-up portraits of people, but I didnt have a wide lens mounted when I took this shot, so the effect is that the people become part of the landscape, which works in this instance. I lived in Hanoi for six years, so I know Vietnam well, and I love it for its contradictionshow simple ways of living are mixed so closely with emerging modern luxury. I admire the Vietnamese, theyre tough people. The vendors, who are mostly women, exemplify this. Afternoons on the dunes get scorchingly hot, and when I look at this photograph I appreciate the beauty even as I feel empathy for the reality it portrays. 112
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Enchanting. Exhilarating.
THE TAJ WEST END, BANGALORE

Taj Forever seductive, forever trusted, forever enchanting. In t he midst of a cit y famed for cutting edge technolog y stands t he 125-year-old Taj West End. Born of an era t hat favoured bunga lows and one-storey intimacy, it is situated across 20 acres of landscaped gardens. Remade entirely w it h contemporar y appointments, The Taj West End offers superlative ser v ice, t he distinctive st yle of Taj Club and ot her facilities. In its sa lubrious surroundings are Blue Ginger, t he specia lit y restaurant which introduced exquisite Vietnamese cuisine to India, Blue Bar- the citys hottest night-spot, and Masala Klub. For r e s e r v a t ion s a nd c e le br a t or y of f e r s , ple a s e v i s it t a j hot e l s .c om , e m a i l w e s t e nd .b a n g a lor e @ t a j hot e l s .c om , c a l l 1. 8 0 0.111. 82 5 t ol l f r e e, or c ont a c t t he hot e l d i r e c t l y, 91. 8 0.6 6 6 0. 5 6 6 0.

I n d i a N e w Yo r k B o s t o n S a n F r a n c i s c o Maldives Sri Lanka Langkawi Bhutan

L o n d o n C a p e To w n Z a m b i a D u b a i Sydney Opening Shortly: Marrakech

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