Bicycle Information

What you need to know

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Contents
Articles
Introduction
Buying a Bicycle General Safety What style 1 1 1 7 10 10 11 11 11 12 13 15 15 17 17 19 21 29 30 38 39 39 41 42 42 43 46 46 47 49 50

Bike Gear and Parts

Equipment and Accessories Cranksets Fenders Frames Lights Appendix

Maintenance
Maintenance and Repair Bottom Brackets Bottom bracket overhaul Brakes Adjusting Rim Brakes Coaster Brakes Cables and Housings Chains Chain clean and lube Chain sizes Checking chain wear Installing a new chain Mending a broken chain Removing a Bicycle Chain Setting chain length Cleaning parts Cranks Derailleurs Front Derailleur Adjustment

Rear Derailleur Adjustment Frames Freewheels and Cassettes Gear-changing Dimensions Glossary Handlebars and Stems Headsets Headset Overhaul Hubs Cleaning and repacking a hub Maintenance Schedules Pedals Removing pedals Saddles and Seatposts Shifters Rapidfire Shifter Lubrication SRAM Gripshift 3.0 'comp' Cable Replacement Suspension Front suspension lubrication Tools and Supplies Pedal Wrench Wheels and Tires Fixing a flat Truing a bicycle wheel

51 60 60 72 79 82 82 82 85 85 89 90 91 92 93 93 93 97 97 97 99 100 100 108

References
Article Sources and Contributors Image Sources, Licenses and Contributors 111 113

Article Licenses
License 115

Introduction
Buying a Bicycle
Purchasing a bicycle can be easy for experience users and slightly difficult for new users. You need to understand what you want to get out of your bike. Mountain Bikes are good for what's in the name, mountains, climbing, going uphill because their gear ratios make pedaling easier. If you tend to stay urban you may need to stick with a standard Mongoose, Huffy city bike. These are made for simple rides good for speed but tend to put more pressure on your legs. In European countries, bike shops are vary common because their use in the country over vehicles, In the United States bike shops are around but not as common as Europe. In America it is common to see a child on a bike but not a older adult due to it being more common for older adults to have vehicles. Large retail stores like Wal-Mart have a selection of bikes but they are cheap or poorly made. If you want a durable bike you would need to go to a bike shop and get a bike from a reputable company.

General Safety
This chapter is meant to deal with General Safety, and will cover what equipment you may need, visibility maintenance and security, all of which can be adjusted before a rider begins their daily commute.

Maintenance
First and foremost a cyclist needs a well maintained and functional machine. The bicycle is one of the few consumer durables still intended to be maintainable by the owner: most cycle maintenance is simple and requires only basic tools. At the very least the rider should regularly check safety-critical components: Brakes: the front brake should be capable of locking the front wheel so that if the bike is pushed forwards, the rear wheel lifts; the rear brake should be capable of skidding the rear wheel. Headset: with the front brake firmly on, rock the bike forwards and backwards. If you feel a clunk as the bike moves, and the handlebars move around, then the headset probably needs adjusting or replacing. Tires: inspect your tires regularly for cuts and wear. Worn tires can blow out, with perilous consequences. They also puncture more readily. Check that your tires are pumped up enough. Pinch the tire between thumb and forefinger: It should feel hard. Mountain bike tires typically run at about 45psi, road bike tires at anything up to 120psi. Do not use garage forecourt airlines (gas station air compressors) to inflate bike tires, use a proper pump preferably with a pressure gauge. Over-inflated tires can lift off the rim and burst. Under-inflated tires compromise control and can result in pinch flats, also known as snakebite punctures for their characteristic double holes.

A winter tyre for bicycles which provide better grip in icy conditions.

Wheels: In turn, lift each end of the bike and spin the wheel. It should spin freely and the rim should remain roughly the same distance from the brake blocks. A wheel which is badly out of true may indicate a broken spoke

General Safety - this should be fixed as soon as possible or else more spokes (or the whole wheel) will probably soon fail. Try to move the rim from side to side. If it moves or you feel a clunk, then the bearings may be worn and should be checked. If the wheel feels gritty as it spins, or rumbles, the bearings are probably damaged. Handlebars: stand in front of the bike, facing towards it; hold the front wheel between your legs; grab the handlebars and try to turn. If the bars twist on the stem, tighten them. General: if you have mudguards (fenders), a rack, a chain guard or any other equipment attached to your bike, give it a good rattle from time to time and check that it is still securely fixed. Loose mudguards, for example, can go in your wheel and bring you down.

Lights & conspicuity

The general consensus is that if you ride after dark you should use lights. This a legal requirement in most places. It is also generally recommended that you dress to be seen, especially in poor weather. Although this consensus is broad-based, it is largely intuitive and there are few studies to support or refute it.

Bike fit
It is common for parents to buy a bike that is too big, in the knowledge that a child will grow. This can make it very difficult for the child to control the bike properly - in most cases it would be better to buy a second-hand bike the right size than a new one with "room for growth," which is, in reality, too big. In adults the biggest fault is usually having the saddle too low, but this is mainly an issue of erroneously perceived comfort and health. It upsets the ability of the rider to control the bike and damages the riders knees and back. The best advice when buying/fitting a bike is to go to a specialist bike shop (Caveat emptor) and take advice.

Helmets
The subject of cycle helmets is controversial. Some evidence suggests that helmeted riders are less likely to suffer head injury; other evidence suggests the opposite. Even when cycle helmet use has risen steeply due to laws that require it, it has not been demonstrated that there is a correlation between helmet use and reduction in head injuries. Recent analysis supports the conclusion of Spaite et al. that much of the effect attributed to helmets in case-control studies may be due to behavioural differences in the types of cyclists who choose to wear or not wear them. In a low speed crash, a cyclist might benefit from wearing a helmet but the theory of risk compensation suggests that the fact of wearing one may subtly influence cyclists' riding by making them less careful. In a more serious crash, especially if a motor vehicle is involved, it is unlikely that a helmet will make a significant difference. One study found that 16 of 20 cyclist fatalities whose primary cause of death was listed as head injury also had other fatal injuries. Of the remaining four, at least one rider had been helmeted at the time[1].

Local Information
Find a local independent bike shop that you trust. Go in and have a chat with the people and see if it is your kind of place. The staff in a good bike shop will be able to offer invaluable advice and they are mostly happy to help. Independent bike shops are recommended because their staff tend to be more passionate and knowledgeable about cycling than in most chain shops. Many areas also have local cycling organisations, ranging from sport-oriented cycle clubs to campaigning organisations for 'transport' cyclists.

General Safety

The Internet
There are many web forums offering discussion of all aspects of cycling and related issues, as well as information sites run by individuals and organisations. Links to some of these are given at the bottom of the page.

Government Information
Government agencies issue information and advice about cycling. the UK Highway Code [2] contains a summary of road traffic laws and official 'best practice'. Whilst few cycling organisations advocate breaking the law, many see the advice elements as written by non-cyclists, and not necessarily in line with reality or cyclists' best interests.

Maintenance
It's vital that the bicycle you rely on is in good condition. Learn to do simple jobs like lubrication and brake and gear adjustment. Clean your bike regularly. Take your bike in for a service at your bike shop at least once a year. Essential safety critical parts that you should check often are: Wheels: Are your tires in good condition and correctly inflated? Don't ride on bald or flat tires. Are the wheel bolts tight enough to hold the wheel in place? If you have quick-release wheels check that the quick release is correctly tightened every time you ride your bike. Does the wheel run straight and true? if there are wobbles in the spinning wheel your bike shop can easily "true" them for you. Cables: Check all your brake and gear cables for signs of rust, wear or fraying. The brake cable is one of the most important parts on a bike so make sure you keep a close check on its condition. If your cables look worn out get your bike shop to fit new ones. Brakes: Test the brakes before you get out on to the road. When looking at the brakes check that the brake pads are not worn out, and that they make contact with the wheel rim correctly when force is applied on the lever. Ask your bike shop to show you how to perform day to day adjustment on your brakes. See also Adjusting Brakes. Many bike shops run cycle maintenance courses. Check with the staff in your local (hopefully independent) cycle shop.

Security
Bike theft is rampant in urban centres, so if you're going to leave your bike anywhere you must assume that it will attract thieves. The usual method used by bike thieves is as follows: Bikes usually disappear overnight. Bikes are stolen by opportunists during the day but organised bike gangs steal bikes at night, after mapping out their intended locations in the preceding daylight hours. Beware of strangers on bikes. Prior to an organised theft, young strangers or near-strangers will be seen observing in the area of the bikes during the daytime, perhaps on bikes themselves. Even if they are sent away it is wrong to assume that the point was won; they are casing the place for a night theft and they or others will return, usually the same night. If observers are noticed during the day, take the bikes into the house regardless of any inconvenience. No lock is totally safe. Any lock can be broken, but buy a good lock to keep the odds in your favor. Thieves use car jacks to break d-clamp locks, and bolt cutters for chains and cables. Some say that skeleton keys are available for locks. Bikes are then stripped of any peculiar fixings. In fact, all of the brakes and other accessories can be removed; They are interchanged between other bikes to confuse recognition. The thieves sell the bikes quickly. They get comparatively low prices for bikes but in view of the low penalties imposed on their activities, they steal large numbers of items. Selling the bikes compounds the difficulty of recovery even if the items are found.

General Safety Bear in mind then, the following points: No cycle lock is thief proof. All you can do to protect your bike is buy time. You have to increase the risk for the thief to the point that they will not bother targeting you. By the time that a bike is stolen, the chance of it being recovered by police is poor. Invest in a secure cycle lock. There are many types to choose from. The staff in the bike shop will be able to offer you the best advice. A common guide is that you should invest at least 10% of the price of your cycle in a lock. Ideally consider a lock that can fasten both wheels and the frame to a bike stand. Insurers insist on good locks and they have approved lists. Insure your bike. Read the policy carefully; some of these are difficult to claim on. If your bike receipt does not have all of the items on it, including the bike number, date of purchase, cost, and other items, then make sure you get these or the insurance might not work. Similarly, the receipt for your bike lock is expected to be much-detailed, including its make, model, price, and serial number, so that you can justify the good lock clause. No easy task; most counter receipts lack detail. Although most insurance covers theft away from home when an approved lock was used, insurers will not usually pay for a bike stolen from the common area of flats whether or not a good lock was used, (on the railings). There is often a stipulated front-door lock quality for insured items in the house itself, though frankly, taking the bike into the house at night gives the best protection of all. Sadly, many only realize the limitations of insurance after an unsuccessful claim. Quick release components need locked too. Wheels and saddles need locked to deter petty thieves. It might be worth investing in a light cable lock to secure your components to your frame. Two locks are also better than one because it takes the thief longer to remove them. Choose the place that you lock your bike up carefully. Never lock your bike up somewhere that you hope it won't be noticed - remember, no lock is thief proof, but they buy time. If the thief thinks it will take too long to remove the lock, and they might be caught then they won't attempt a theft. By locking your bike up in a quiet spot you are removing the only advantage you have. Ideally choose a designated cycle parking facility provided by the (most) municipal authorities. If not then lamp posts, fences, signs, etc. provide useful locking points. Make sure you lock your bike up in busy places. There are a few major points to make about picking the object you lock your bike to: Never lock your bike to cast iron railings! - Cast iron is brittle, so although a railing looks strong a sharp blow from a heavy hammer can shatter it in no time at all. If you're not sure find something else to lock your bike to. Check that the bike stand or other object is secure. Bicycle locking stands should not move. They should be as solid as a rock. Some really do just lift up out of the ground. Some fences have railings that slide right out. What ever you're locking your bike to, give it a good shake before you lock your bike to it. If it looks like it might go somewhere, choose somewhere else to lock your bike. When you lock your bike to a sign make sure it's a tall one. Thieves will just bend the sign up and lift your bike over the top of the post if they can. Make sure the post is too tall for them to do that. Also, in some countries, (London, UK), the police might object to bikes cabled to lampposts, and as such if an offense is being committed, you might that it makes for a difficult insurance claim in the event of a theft. Try not to leave your bike outside overnight anywhere. You will find that insurance policies may not cover this, even in the common area of your home. Take any bike that you value into the house. Folding bikes make this regime easier, even if they have 26 inch wheels. Make your cycle less attractive to thieves. You can get your bicycle frame stamped with a unique number (sometimes your postcode or zip-code) and registered with the police. There are also electronic tags that identify your bike as stolen if the police find it. There are internet property registers like Immobilise.com that are used by law enforcement and bike owners to check whether or not for-sale and recovered items are already reported as stolen. Theoretically, there should be no international boundaries to internet registers, though the lack of international police liaison (and their disinterest) might prevent it. Priority in most police forces is given to crimes against the person, so bike theft has quite a low priority.

General Safety Some cyclists wrap the frame of their cycles in tape. Use either electrical insulating tape or "gaffer" tape to make the frame unique; this also covers the labels on an expensive frame and protects the paintwork. It is also removable, any gunk left over from the tape can be removed with degreaser. Some (particularly messengers) cover their frames in vinyl stickers. This looks cool but might not be to everybody's taste. It has the same effect as taping. Fitting mudguards gives a bike a slightly less racy appearance. It also helps make it less attractive to thieves. Take lots of photos of your bike. This will help you identify it before reporting a find to police. It is difficult to check a serial number on a parked bike, and perhaps dangerous too, so consider other ideas, like keeping a photo of the bike's paint chip patterns on your phone for a quick comparison. Chip patterns are quite unique and thieves rarely take the trouble to cover them.

Clothing
Cycle shops sell a wide range of clothing specifically designed for cyclists. In the summer you'll need to wear shorts and a t-shirt. The "wicking" t-shirts sold in bike shops and mountaineering shops etc. will draw the sweat away from you and help keep you dry. A light wind-cheater is handy for colder moments In the winter you'll need breathable waterproofs - something that keeps the rain off but also lets the sweat out, normal waterproofs will just trap your sweat and make you feel damp. Cycle shorts: Are really good for cyclists, but some don't like the look. The seams are specially placed to avoid chafing your "sensitive" regions, sometimes they have padding to soften the ride. They can be made of special wicking material to draw away sweat and keep you dry. They can be worth wearing under more conventional clothes for a more conventional look.

Visibility
It is important to be as visible as possible when cycling. It is very easy for other road users to fail to see a cyclist in the dark until it is too late. The reflectors supplied with your bike are a legal minimum requirement (in the UK) but they will not be enough to ensure you are fully visible. Reflectors fail for myriad reasons- see Sheldon Brown's guide [3] for a list . Pedal reflectors tend to work the best, because they are in motion most of the time, resulting in a "flashing" effect. Spoke reflectors help to make you visible from side on, and like pedal reflectors are in constant motion. Despite this, A cyclist has to take responsibility for their own visibility. If the car that hits you has no headlights then your reflectors won't do anything. It is important that you fit front and rear lights. Many cyclists also attach extra lights to their clothing/helmet. Despite the problems with bike reflectors, don't be tempted to remove them, They're an important back up. Many cyclists attach extra reflectors to their bike. Reflective tape is particularly useful as is can be wrapped around the frame, turning the surface of the bike into a reflector with out adding any unsightly bits of plastic and metal. Reflective clothing is also recommended. A wide range of reflective jackets, belts, trouser clips, vests etc. is available in cycle shops. A cheap alternative can be the reflective tabards worn by road repair crews. These are available in builders merchants and should be certified to be industry safety standards.

General Safety

Bells and horns

A bell or horn (or among London cycle messengers an elaborate whistle) is an essential piece of safety equipment. Use it to warn pedestrians of your approach on shared pathways, or if they have not noticed you when they are crossing the road. Ring your bell for a few seconds before going round any blind corners. If you cycle on canal towpaths ring the bell before and while going under any bridges, as the entrance to many bridges (in London for example) is obscured by a kink in the path. Remember that bicycles don't make any engine noise so you have to help others become aware of your presence.

Other road users

It is a sad inevitability of cycling in an urban centre that you will come in to conflict with other road users. Many regular cyclists have a long list of examples of stupidity on the part of drivers that lead to a near miss/close shave, or seemingly unwarranted aggression from frustrated motorists. The important things to remember are: That you have as much of a right to be on the road as motorists. If they can't pass you safely they should wait. Do not retaliate or provoke a confrontation. You're on a cycle and they are in a motor vehicle. Even an exasperated gesture can provoke some drivers into road rage, and that just makes a bad situation worse. Satisfy yourself with the fact that cycling in cities is quicker, better for your health, environmentally friendly and a social activity. If you really want to make your voice heard you can see if your city has a cyclist's association, or perhaps join a bike ride organised by the protest group Critical Mass. Try to make eye contact with drivers at junctions, etc., this really helps to ensure the driver has seen you. Knowing who has seen you and who hasn't lets you anticipate when someone may pull in front of you. If there is a bike path around, use it instead for a more peaceful commute.

See Also
Adjusting Rim Brakes

References
[1] Sage MD (December 25, 1985). "Fatal injuries to bicycle riders in Auckland". NZ Med J 98 (793). [2] http:/ / www. direct. gov. uk/ en/ TravelAndTransport/ Highwaycode/ Cyclists/ index. htm [3] http:/ / sheldonbrown. com/ reflectors. html

External Links
http://www.sheldonbrown.com - A huge site with lots of safety, maintenance and fun tips, in-depth bike history categories. A rich seam of cycling information. http://www.lcc.org.uk/- The website of the London Cycling Campaign. Full of information for cyclists in London and beyond http://www.resonancefm.com/- a London radio station with a weekly bike show. 18:30 Monday http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/TravelAndTransport/Highway-code/Cyclists/index.htm - The Highway Code (UK traffic laws) as it affects cyclists http://www.ctc.org.uk/- CTC - "the UK's national cyclists' organisation" http://www.bikeforums.net/and http://www.cyclingforums.com/- Cycle discussion websites, cover many topics and styles of writing http://lists.topica.com/lists/urbancyclist-uk/?cid=51 - urbancyclist-uk mailing list

What style

What style
When you walk into a bike shop you see a huge range of different styles of bicycles. There may be bikes with enormous suspension systems, little things with ribbons sticking out, bikes that are light with very thin wheels, and big monsters you think King Kong couldn't lift. There are three main types of bicycles you'll see in your local bike shop--mountain bikes, road bikes and kids bikes. Mountain bikes are usually the bigger bikes with wider but smaller diameter wheels. As other bikes they come in many varieties. Cross-country mountain bikes are bikes the lightest weight modern A Cross-country mountain bike mountain bikes, with only front shocks or with low travel full suspension; the intended use being riding long distances over unpaved paths through medium terrain, like hiking on a bicycle. For more aggressive mountain bikers, all-mountain, freeride, or downhill mountain bikes exist. They are for going down steep slopes at high speeds, over big drops. They are extremely strong, but heavy, and not designed to be pedaled for much distance. In many places they are taken up ski lifts in the summer, or driven up in a automobile, and only ridden down hill. Road bikes are designed for road riding as a sport. They are suited for speed and efficiency. For example, the thin tires cut down on rolling resistance and the ultra light frames allow riders to reach some amazing speeds with the least effort. You might see cyclocross bikes, which are similar to road bikes in geometry, but are built to take larger tires and be ridden off-road. Often, there are separate brake levers on the tops of the road handlebars. There are many types of bicycle available. Choosing the bicycle that fits your needs is an important first step to enjoying your cycling experience. This chapter aims to weigh the pros and cons of some cycles.

Road biking
Pros: Roads are easily accessible. Speeds can reach well in excess of 40KPH. Can be made easy or hard (if you ride long or fast or take hills). Can be very enjoyable and exhilarating. Burns lots and lots of calories and increases physical fitness.

Cons: Can be dull, rigorous and sweaty. Traffic requires being aware of situations and using safe skills. Fast riding and descending require skill. Entry-level road bikes tend to cost more than entry-level mountain or "hybrid" bikes.

A racing bicycle

Crashes at high-speed are very dangerous.

What style

Cross-country Mountain Biking

Pros: Very challenging Very good exercise. Scenery is usually better than road biking. Facilities and Trails accessible.

Cons: Hard. Can be tiring. Smooth ride is a joke Facilities not as easily accessible as road biking. Also dangerous!

This type of riding is for die-hard individuals, and people who like hiking.

Freeride Mountain Biking

Pros: Increasingly popular. If you like skiing... Fast. Going off jumps is an exhilarating experience (once you get used to it). Fairly challenging. Truckload of fun. Safe if rider is wearing body armor. You can do big tricks in this type of riding.

Cons: Highly Dangerous if rider is not wearing body armor. Scary at first. Hard to access. Not good exercise. Expensive.

In slopestyle, riders can perform tricks. For daredevils with lots of money and health insurance.

What style

Recumbent Bikes
Pros: Comfortable. The fastest of all bicycle styles[1]. Excellent exercise. Can ride longer distances in comfort. With proper gearing, can climb hills easily. Cons: Not ideal for riding in urban conditions due to low riding position. Cars may have trouble seeing you. Recumbent bicycles tend to be more expensive because they are not mass produced. Recumbents tend to be harder to find for test rides. More skill needed to balance (unless you're riding a recumbent trike!). Not as well understood by bike mechanics and shops. Climbing hills can be more difficult if one is used to standing up off the pedals to climb in an improperly high gear on a diamond frame bicycle, although extra leverage can be gained by pushing against the back of the seat. As noted in advantages, this is not an issue with proper gearing.

Two recumbent bicycles

References
[1] http:/ / www. helsinki. fi/ ~tlinden/ winforb. html

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Bike Gear and Parts

Equipment and Accessories
Parts
Frames Wheels Hubs Spokes Rims Brakes Drive chain Cranksets (including chainrings and cranks, but not bottom brackets) Bicycles/Equipment and Accessories/Bottom Brackets Derailleurs Chains Pedals

Accessories
Fenders Lights Clothing Winter riding gear Touring Equipment Bags Racks Panniers

Cranksets

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Cranksets
Cranksets comprise the chainrings and cranks, and sometimes the bottom bracket; never the pedals. There are three main categories of cranksets, depending on how the chainrings are connected to the cranks. Firstly, the cheapest cranksets are made in one piece, with the chainrings welded to the cranks. More expensive and higher-quality ones are bolted on with either four or five bolts.

Notes to be incorporated in this page

Some very expensive cranksets are one piece. What to look for when buying cranks and/or chainrings.

Fenders
Fenders, also known as mudguards in some English-speaking countries, are a very useful accessory for riding in wet weather. They block spray from the road, preventing a lot of water and dirt from hitting you and your bicycle. This makes riding more comfortable and reduces the amount of grit that gets in bearings, etc., increasing component lifetime. Large full coverage fenders provide the best performance. Smaller, shorter fenders can be easier to install, but will block less spray from the road. Fenders come in different sizes for different size wheels. On some frames with little clearance between the frame and tires, fitting fenders can be difficult.

Frames

Lights

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Lights
Lights are an essential cycling accessory and any cyclist that intends to ride in dim lighting conditions, or poor weather such as fog or rain should not consider riding without lights.

Why use lights?

Although bikes sold for use on the roads are required to be supplied with reflectors, these really should not be relied on to keep you visible on the roads [3]. Cyclists should be responsible for their own safety and acknowledge that not only are proper lights a common courtesy to other road users, they are one of the ways to promote your safety on the roads. Darkness and bad weather can make cyclists almost invisible to other road users. A light may be the only thing that makes a driver or pedestrian realize that the faint shadow up ahead is actually a cyclist.

Types of Lighting
There is a wide selection of bicycle lights available, all with their own characteristics. It is definitely worth discussing your needs and cycling habits with the staff in the store you intend to buy your lights from. There are generally three types of lighting used for bicycles, based around either Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs), Halogen filament bulbs or High-Intensity Discharge (HID) bulbs. It is very rare to see lights based around other light sources, so unless they are expressly recommended by an expert they should be treated with caution when buying. Bicycle lights can also be powered by different means. The most common are ordinary batteries, rechargeable batteries, "bottle" dynamos and Hub dynamos.

LED lighting systems

LED lights are very popular amongst cyclists and have a number of excellent characteristics. They are lightweight, relatively cheap, bright, compact and reliable. They require very little maintenance- LEDs have a very long lifespan and don't need to be replaced like bulbs. LEDs are generally battery powered and give excellent battery life. Many LED lighting systems are also demountable; you can detach the lights and take them with you if you are going to leave your bike locked up in public. LED lights often come with the option of a variety of flashing modes, as well as a steady beam. While you are required by law to have lights attached to the frame that emit a steady beam, many cyclists also attach additional lights to their bike or clothing that are set to flash. Flashing lights tend to attract the attention of drivers and increase battery life One issue with LEDs is that they emit quite a narrow beam that appears weaker the further you move from the optimum viewing angle. All LED lights should have a light diffuser which will increase their effectiveness.

Halogen lighting systems

Most cyclists find that LEDs do not provide a powerful enough beam to illuminate the road. This means that while they work very well as a tail light in all conditions and as a headlight in areas with street lighting they will not provide illumination of the way ahead like a car's headlights might. Cyclists that need to cycle down unlit roads often choose a Halogen light for their headlight. Halogen lights give a very bright beam for relatively low power consumption, although they are more power hungry than LED systems. They tend to be available with more power source options than LED lights, such as rechargeable batteries and dynamos. Because they use more batteries and produce more heat than LEDs, halogen lights also tend to be very slightly bigger and heavier than LEDs, the trade off being their superior performance for specialist use.

Lights

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Power Sources
Bicycle lights are normally powered by either batteries or dynamos. The Key difference between batteries and dynamos is that, by using a dynamo you generate your own electricity to power the lights on your bike and by using batteries you get power from a disposable (and environmentally harmful) source. Both the lights and the generators for Dynamo systems are initially more expensive than battery powered lights, however this can be offset over the lifespan of the product by the fact that you are not paying to recharge or replace batteries. While most battery powered lights attach to the bike by a simple clip mechanism, meaning they can be removed to prevent theft, most dynamo lights have to remain clipped to the frame due to the wiring that connects them to the Dynamo.

Battery power=
LED systems tend to run off battery power, as it provides a steady, constant, compact and lightweight source of power that suits the characteristics of LED systems. LEDs don't use battery power very quickly and are a very economical form of bicycle lighting. You can use your own rechargeable batteries but they tend not to come as standard

Tips
Always check that the lights you buy are weatherproof. You will need them in the rain!

Links with more information

http:/ / en. wikipedia. org/ wiki/ Bicycle_lighting Wikipedia entry on bicycle lighting http:/ / www. runmuki. com/ commute/a guide to bicycle communing http://www.lcc.org.uk/the London Cycling Campaign website

Appendix
Company Specific Manuals
Bontrager [1] Campagnolo [2] China Bicycle Manufacturer [3] Fox [4] Hayes [5] Magura [6] Marzocchi [7] Moulton Progressive [8] Rock Shox [9] Shimano [10] SRAM [11]

Appendix

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References
[1] http:/ / www. bontrager. com/ workshop/ [2] http:/ / campagnolo. com/ techinfo. php?did=f [3] http:/ / www. xls-bicycle. com [4] http:/ / www. foxracingshox. com/ website/ OwnersManuals. asp?Market=MBike [5] http:/ / www. hayesdiscbrake. com/ tech. cfm [6] http:/ / www. magura. com/ english/ download/ downloads. htm [7] http:/ / www. marzocchi. com/ template/ listSPAManuals. asp?IDFolder=126& LN=UK& Sito=mtb [8] http:/ / www. progressivesuspension. com/ faq. html [9] http:/ / www. sram24. com/ newtechdoc/ english/ consumers/ index. html [10] http:/ / bike. shimano. com/ services/ tech_info_a. asp [11] http:/ / www. sram24. com/ newtechdoc/ english/ dealers/ index. html

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Maintenance
Maintenance and Repair

A diagram listing parts of a bicycle

Bicycles throughout the world are made with standardized, interchangeable parts. Unlike many modern products, the technology used in bicycles is simple enough to allow many riders to repair their own vehicles with a minimum of effort. For any cyclist, bicycle maintenance is a particularly useful skillset to acquire. Every skill learned in this area---no matter how simple or complex---can aid in keeping your bike in good working order, save you money, and make the difference between pushing your bike home or riding it.

Maintenance and Repair

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Contents
Appendix Chains Setting chain length Chain sizes Chain cleaning and lubrication Checking a chain for wear Removing a bicycle chain Mending a broken chain Installing a new chain Bottom brackets Bottom bracket overhaul Brakes Adjusting Rim Brakes Coaster brakes Cables and Housings Cleaning parts Cranks Derailleurs Front-derailleur adjustment Rear-derailleur adjustment Frames Freewheels & cassettes Gear-changing Dimensions:Tables with gear shifting data. Glossary Handlebars & stems Headsets

More bike stands please...

Headset overhaul Hubs Cleaning and repacking a hub Maintenance schedules Pedals Removing pedals Saddles & seatposts Shifters Rapidfire shifter lubrication - (i.e. Shimano A20) SRAM Gripshift 3.0 'comp' Cable Replacement Suspension Front suspension lubrication Tools & supplies Wheels & Tires Fixing a flat (AKA a puncture) Inflating Tires Truing a wheel (adjusting rims so that they don't appear to wobble as the wheels spin)

Bottom Brackets

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Bottom Brackets
See Also
Bottom bracket overhaul

Bottom bracket overhaul

Identify bottom bracket type
There are two main bottom bracket types. More common on older bikes is the cup and cone style shown to the left. On modern bikes the most common is the sealed cartridge bearing shown to the right. The easiest way to identify which you have is to look at the bottom bracket on the non-drive side of the bike. A cup and cone bottom bracket will have a lockring and adjustable cup. A cartridge will just have a cup with a splined interface. For a detailed analysis of the varying types of bottom bracket see the Wikipedia article.

Cartridge
Cup and cone BB showing lockring and adjustable cup.

A cartridge bottom bracket is a sealed unit and once worn out the whole thing is replaced. Cartridge bottom bracket replacement: 1. Remove both crank arms 2. Use a bottom bracket tool to remove old unit. Remember most modern bikes use English threads so the drive side cup will be reverse threaded and unscrews clockwise. 3. Clean bottom bracket threads in frame with degreaser and rag. 4. Apply grease to the frame threads and bottom bracket threads. 5. Insert the bottom bracket into the frame. Make sure it is oriented correctly, left and right should be marked on the shell. Typically the drive side cup will be fixed to the shell and have a raised flange. Take care when threading the bottom bracket into the frame, it is easy to cross thread. If the cup has a raised flange tighten until the flange is tight against the frame. 6. Fit the other cup again taking care to avoid cross threading. Tighten until it is tight against the shell.

Cartridge BB showing splined cup.

7. Reinstall cranks.

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Cup and cone

Remove the lock ring of the adjustable (left side) cup. There are several ways to do this, the best of which is to use a large Sugino or Campagnolo (or equivalent) lockring spanner, which looks like a curved finger that fits around the lockring with a hangnail that goes into the lockring slot. In a pinch, an adjustable pin spanner can also be used to grip the lock ring. The direction to turn depends upon the style of adjustable cup; English/French, Italian, or Swiss. There are a few types of adjustable cup: One type has holes in it designed for a pin spanner to unscrew. This tool looks like a giant pair of tweezers with one pin on each tang. A picture of this can be seen here http:/ / www. sheldonbrown. com/ tooltips/ images/ bbtools5. jpg The other type looks like an adjustable spanner would fit, but in practice a chisel and a mallet is often the only way to turn it round and out. Once the left cup is out, remove the ball bearings (usually in a retainer) and the bottom bracket spindle, and then the right side bearings. Note which way the retainer comes out and be sure to replace it the same way round. It is not necessary to remove the fixed cup over on the right hand side, and because of the difficulty and chance of damaging the fixed cup flats, removal is not recommended if you want to keep it. Clean all bearing surfaces using WD-40 penetrating solvent to dissolve congealed grease. Inspect for pits and discard and replace any pitted cups or a pitted spindle. Remove individual balls from the retainer and clean thoroughly before replacing them. Grease the cups and bearings liberally. Phil Wood grease or Park Tools grease is a good commercial grease for this purpose. Use copper grease ONLY on the screw-threads and reinstall the right side bearings and bottom bracket spindle. If the spindle is asymmetric be sure to orient the longer side of the spindle on the right (drive side) of the bike. Place left side bearings into the cup and gently screw the cup back onto the frame. Do not force! It is easy to strip or foul the bottom bracket threads by mistake. Continue screwing with the pin tool (or adjustable spanner) once the cup gets deep into the bottom bracket shell. When the bottom bracket feels tight, check for play by grasping the spindle and yanking in and out on the spindle and listening / feeling for play. It is better to be a little bit too tight than too loose. When the lockring is secure the play will increase ever so slightly. When all the play is removed, thread on the lockring and tighten with lockring spanner (here, a pin spanner cannot provide enough force to secure the lockring permanently.) Tighten the lockring until it can go no further.

Symptoms of a bottom bracket needing overhaul

Listen to your bike, and take notice of what it feels like, when you are riding. Through your feet, via the pedals, you can diagnose many power-drive-related problems, including whether the bottom bracket is in need of maintenance. If you can hear or feel a periodic (i.e. once per crank revolution) creak or ticking noise when the system is under high or even normal load, it could be time to regrease or replace the bottom bracket. The creak, click, or rough feeling usually occurs as the crank arms pass through one particular point in their cycle; if it does, then you have a problem with either the bottom bracket or possibly the pedals themselves (check this latter simply by spinning the pedals with your hand; they should spin freely). The creaking in the bottom bracket can be caused by the on-set of corrosion (due to frequent exposure of this part of the bike to water and dirt). For total confirmation of a worn bottom bracket, remove the crank arms and spin the spindle by hand; you will quickly be able to tell if it is in need of maintenance or replacement.

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Beware of damaging the threads in the frame

Great care and cleanliness is necessary to protect the thread of the bottom bracket in the frame. This is the only part of the whole bicycle that is vulnerable to "wearing out", sometimes by running in a loosened condition. Or, perhaps more commonly, be damaged beyond repair by carelessness (eg cross-threading) in the workshop. The common practice of tightening the locking ring with a hammer and chisel will damage the ring (no great problem, it is replaceable) but is also ineffective in providing sufficient torque.

External Links
http://www.smbbearings.com/BB_BRGS.htm A how-to guide to replacing bottom bracket cartridge bearings, from SMB Bearings Ltd. Park Tool Co. Cartridge Bearing Type Bottom Bracket Service Guide [1] A wonderful guide to bottom bracket maintenance from one of the best tool companies out there.

References
[1] http:/ / www. parktool. com/ repair/ readhowto. asp?id=94

Brakes
Brakes
There are many different types of brakes for bicycles. Most bicycle brake systems have three basic parts: a mechanism for the rider to apply the brakes, such as brake levers or pedals; cables or the bicycle chain to enact the braking of the bicycle; and the brake itself, a pad or the reversal of momentum, which actually stops the bicycle with pressure. Brake cables often come loose, pads often become slick in the rain or worn down, and these problems should be addressed immediately for safe riding.

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See Also
Cables and Housings Adjusting brakes Coaster brakes

A center-pull brake.

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Adjusting Rim Brakes

Fig 1. Typical Brake Details A. Cable Housing.B. Housing End Ferrule.C. Cable Guide.D. Housing Detent. E. Rubber Noodle.F. Cable Clamp.G. Cable Tail.H. Cable Cap. I. Brake ArmJ. Brake Block (Pad).K. Block Setting Screw.L. Arm Mounting Bolt.

Rim brakes on bicycles are simple to adjust, and the term rim is used to distinguish them from hub brakes. Rim brakes include all brake designs that depend on using brake pads to close on the rims of a bicycle's wheels. The brake parts for the most common configuration are identified in Figures 1 and 2. Although brakes are usually mandatory on bicycles, the laws and rules for brake performance vary, and some countries, while making law for new bicycles, ('at the point of sale'), have few specifications for the operation of bicycles after that point. Bike riders are advised to use the sources of law that apply in their own countries, but where the rules there are incomplete or unclear, they are advised to use any point of sale specifications that are available. Because the matter might then still be unclear in some countries, a table below repeats the braking distances of British Standard BS6102/1 for new bicycles. Bike shops can perform any number of tasks for the bicycle owner, but the basic brake adjustments are easy to do for yourself. At the simplest level they consist of screw adjustments on the handlebars, while knowing what gaps you intend to produce. At other times, (rarely), the cable length needs to be changed, but this too can be done by anybody with a practical leaning. It is perhaps when the conventional adjustments fail to solve the problem that most people resort to such pages to learn more. This page includes a selection of the most common confusions for brake adjustment and explains how to correct them. Bear in mind that the best way to learn the adjustment of brakes is to be shown by somebody while it is being done; in this way much of the mystery vanishes. The next best way is to follow a fairly stolid description of the sort below, and although it lacks interaction, should at least leave the reader better informed than when he started.

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Preliminaries
Consider these few things before carrying out brake adjustments. Doing so might save time in the long run: Is a full adjustment really needed? Before doing any elaborate brake adjustments it is a good idea to decide whether or not a simple barrel adjustment might fix it. If you just need a slight gap adjustment or to balance the brake arms refer to Fine Adjustments [1] below.

Make sure that the wheels are correctly set. The wheels should be fully engaged in the dropouts and centered in the wheel arches if brake balancing is to work. If they are not centered, then this might be your problem as opposed to the brakes themselves; so correct the matter first. Inflate the tires first. Before adjusting the brakes, make sure that the tires are properly inflated, since flat tires will affect the results. Believe it or not, metal rims can move as tire pressures change. Preset the barrel adjusters. Before starting any cable length adjustments, first set the brake levers' barrel adjusters so that they are out by two full turns, instead of being tightened all the way in. This allows some fine adjustment in both directions at any stage, and will allow the cable to be slackened enough to release the wheel from the brake blocks when necessary. Check that the rims are clean. Remove any dirt and oil from the rims, and if necessary clean them with detergent and wire wool, being careful to avoid the rubber of the tires. Check the brake blocks for wear. Make sure that the brake block contact areas have not been badly reduced. If the surface grooves on the blocks have been removed by wear, then replacing them will improve braking greatly. When replacing them be sure to replace both at the same time. The full adjustment procedure is summarized below but it should be emphasized that slight adjustments might solve the problem. In any case, it is quite usual to repeat balancing at various stages throughout the adjustment. Position each brake block so that it presses cleanly onto its wheel rim. Set the brake cable length to roughly establish the brake blocks' clearance. Adjust the brake-arm balance screws so that both blocks close onto the rims together. Fine-adjust the handlebar barrel-adjuster for the required brake performance. Test the brakes both off and on the road. These above points are all described in some detail in the text that follows.

Fig 2. Typical Brake Lever Details A. Brake Cable Housing.B. Brake Barrel Adjuster.C. Adjuster Locking Ring. D. Brake Lever.

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Brake Block Alignment

The brake blocks need to be aligned with the metal rims. Refer to Figs 1 and 3. The leading edge of each block should be slightly closer to the rim than its trailing edge. This prevents brake squealing and is called "toeing-in". Use a coin, a credit card, or any other thin material under the back end of the block while adjusting it. Some suggest tying an elastic band temporarily to the trailing end of the block to allow more freedom while working. To make the adjustment, slacken the screw that holds the block. Usually a 5mm hex wrench is used. Swing the brake arm in so that the block is pressed squarely against the metal rim, and then re-tighten it while holding the block hard with your "toeing-in" device in place. Avoid the rubber of the wheel; the block should contact only the rim. The block should be parallel to the rim, noting that some blocks are curved to fit its shape. Do one block at a time, and just let each arm Fig 3. Block Alignment. Note the direction of 'toeing-in'. relax after the block is set. If there is insufficient clearance to work or if you intend adjusting the cable length later in any case, then unhook the cable bridge (Figure 1, D) or undo the cable clamp (Figure 1, F) before carrying out the work.

Block Clearance
Decide whether or not the block clearance is correct by trying the feel of the brake lever. (Figure 2, D). The brake should feel responsive without too much handbrake slack prior to the start of braking. Some mountain bike V-brakes might need only a 1mm gap, while many other brakes need about 2mm. If in doubt, refer to your bicycle handbook. If a significant adjustment is needed, resetting the cable length should do it. If a small change will do then use the brake lever barrel-adjusters on the handlebars, as described in the Fine Adjustments [1] below. Rough Adjustment To reset the cable length slacken the brake cable clamp (Figure 1, F), usually with a 5mm hex wrench, and let the brake side arms relax. Move both of the side arms toward the rims until the blocks are about the right distance away; although you can do this in any way that you like, it is easiest to hold one arm against its rim and adjust the other's gap so that it is about double the intended block clearance. Pull up any cable slack and re-tighten the cable clamp. This may take a couple of tries to get the blocks close to, but not touching, the rim. In any case, fine adjustments can be made with the barrel adjusters (Figure 2, B), provided not too much range is expected of them. In the absence of documentation about the brakes, aim for the combined clearance of the two blocks on v-brakes to be about 2mm; this will give 1mm gaps after balancing. For less demanding brakes, assume about double this figure. Some manufacturers provide internet sites with technical information of this kind. A good example of a manufacturer's brake manual can be found in pdf format here [2], and its parts list here [3].

Adjusting Rim Brakes Fine Adjustment Fine adjustments are made with the handbrakes' barrel-adjusters. (Figure 2, B). If not on the handlebars they may be near the brake blocks. If the brakes just need a small adjustment, this may be all that you need. Barrel adjustment; after undoing the barrel-adjuster's locknut (Figure 2, C) the brake blocks can be moved by turning the barrel screw (Figure 2, B). To move both brake blocks inward, simply unscrew the barrel (counter clockwise). Conversely, to move both brake blocks outward, turn the barrel inward, (clockwise). This feature gives a much finer adjustment of cable length than setting the cable clamp. Check the feeling of the brake frequently while getting the adjustment right, and tighten the locknut again when it is done. Lastly, decide whether or not to re-balance the brake arms. Notes on barrel range: There are differences of opinion as to the ideal amount of thread to leave on the adjusters when the brake adjustments are complete. The main ideas are these: For maximum barrel range; screw the barrel adjusters all the way in before making any brake adjustments to allow the widest range of inward adjustment of the blocks. This might be the case where compensating for block wear is the main consideration. To unhook the brakes; for a wide wheel removal, you might wish that you left more play in the cable. That is to say, provided that the barrel has always about two turns of thread showing, then tightening it all the way in will allow the cable nipple, (the end of the cable guide), to be unhooked from the housing detent without touching the cable clamp. Some find this method useful. Decide which is best for your routine.

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Brake Block Balance

'The brake arms should be adjusted so that both blocks apply pressure to the rim at the same time. As a result, at balance, there is no sideways displacement of the wheel during braking. Although slight imbalance is not always critical, displacement of the wheel by even a small amount can cause damage when small-clearance devices such as distance counters are installed on the spokes. Balancing the spring tensions keeps the wheel centered even during braking. For brakes like V-brakes, there is a small screw near the bottom of each brake arm to adjust the spring tension.( Fig 5). It is often a posidrive screw, (M4x6mm) , with a tightening insert. Turning this screw clockwise will cause the brake block to move outward slightly, and turning it anticlockwise will cause the block to move inward. As one block moves, so does the other, to maintain the distance between them. Adjust these until the clearances are about equal. In this way, operating the brake causes the blocks to reach the rim at about the same time. Be careful not to withdraw the screws too far since they may not be captive. At the other extreme, if a screw is too far in, the brake arm will bind; if a brake arm seems inactive, or unresponsive, this might be the case, or the spring may just have popped out of its slot. Try to avoid the limits and to reach a balance with the screws near their mid-range. This is easier than it sounds since making an identical adjustment on both screws will leave the balance unchanged. Brakes usually can be balanced unless the wheel is not centered in the wheel-arch. (See Common Brake Problems on this page for more on this).

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Final Check Fig 4. Maximum Braking Distances for Adult-Sized Bicycles. These figures can be found in CTC Standard for the Safety of Hired and Used Cycles, ( 5/3/99 ).
Maximum Braking Distance (metres) Speed 24 kmph (15 mph) using both brakes Speed 24 kmph (15 mph) rear brake only Speed 16 kmph (10 mph) using both brakes Speed 16 kmph (10 mph) rear brake only Dry Flat Surface Wet Flat Surface Remarks 5.5 m 14 m 2.5 m 7.5 m n/a n/a 7.5 m 19 m Only if safe Only if safe Safest to Test Only if safe

Rotate the wheel to check brake clearance. Make sure that there are no repetitive noises coming from the brakes. Test the brakes on the spinning wheels before riding. If these work well enough then test the brakes again by riding the bicycle in a quiet place. The brakes should stop the bicycle decisively in a fairly short distance. Some v-brakes in particular have a short stopping distance; on these you should not need a deep pull on the brake lever for a good braking effect since this is a sign that the blocks are set too far from the rims. In any case be sure to refer to the manual if there is doubt. Figure 4 is an extract of maximum braking distances as given by the CTC Hire Standard, that is itself related to the content of British Standard BS6102/1 for new bikes. The CTC standard is an attempt to consider used bikes, as opposed to bikes at the point of first sale. In any case, these stopping distances are useful until such time as the European standards properly address the issue. The most common reason for long braking distances, apart from maladjusted brakes, is the degradation of the brake block surface area. Be sure if replacing these to replace both together.

Common Brake Problems

Balance Problems Sometimes, despite best efforts, the brake arms will not balance. The spring balance screws are designed to have limited range since they are only expected to handle the difference between the arm tensions to achieve balance. So, faults that only slightly bind any part of the braking system can cause trouble with balancing. Possible faults include: The lack of general lubrication, the binding of brake arms, the slipping of faulty adjustment screws, unseated brake-arm springs, unseated housing ferrules or nipples, or a quick-release wheel that needs re-clamped closer to the centre of the wheel arch. See these points below.
Fig 5. Typical Brake Layout. Note the location of the balance screws.

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Lubrication Small changes in brake arm resistance are often corrected by lubrication alone. As a last resort, to identify the source of binding, undo the cables at the brake levers, and at the cable clamp; this can isolate the three parts of the system. In this way, each section could be studied without being affected by the other parts. Any roughness in operation could then be observed. Many problems of this kind however, are solved by routine cable lubrication. The moving parts of brake assemblies, with the exception of blocks and rims, should be oiled. Use a light machine oil of the type sold as 'bicycle oil'. Brake lever assemblies, cables, and the brake arms should all be lubricated. A cable is oiled by dropping oil onto the cable with the brake lever operated to expose it. A single drop of oil at the point where a cable enters a housing will travel the length of the cable by capillary action. Rub some oil also onto any other visible steel cables. When the brake arms are removed, do not forget to clean and grease the mounting pins before reassembly. The rotating parts at the back of the brake arm's pivot-assembly should not be disassembled, though a drop of bike oil is useful when they seem a bit gritty in operation. Balance Screws The balance screws work by pushing and releasing the coiled ends of the springs, so increasing and decreasing their strength. However, things sometimes go wrong. In some brakes the brake arm binds up when the screw is all the way in. In others, the screw slips off the end of its spring because of bent parts or poor design. When either of these things happens it will be difficult or impossible to balance the brakes. If the balance screws seem to lack range of adjustment. then look for these problems on the underside of the brake arms. In the case of binding screws it is simple to release the screw a bit and reattempt the balance. Bear in mind that carrying out an identical adjustment on both balance screws should leave the balance unchanged, so unless there is some other problem, it will usually be possible to correct binding in this way. A better fix for a binding screw is to add a washer under the balance screw head to avoid binding in the future. This limit should be set to avoid the worst case; found usually with the block against the rim. If the screws are ever replaced, avoid using screws that are longer, unless the extra is padded out as mentioned above. This will avoid brake binding. Balance screws are usually fitted with nylon inserts to make sure that they are fairly tight, though a drop of thread tightening fluid might also help avoid their getting lost on the road. Sometimes the spring on a brake arm slips out of its groove, and this is seen as one side of the brakes doing nothing at all. This happens at times when the bridge has been undone. Fix it by moving the spring back behind the arm into its groove. At other times, the springs of cheaper brakes can slip off the balance screws, but this is largely a fabrication problem; consider a new set of brakes if this happens, since these springs are not easily reworked. Brake arms have location pins to fix them to the flats on the bike frame. The frame often has three holes to choose from but some frame mountings have only one. The hole chosen decides the spring strength and the work needed to pull the brake lever. If the pins of each brake arm in a set are located in different positions, then the resulting tensions cannot be balanced. If there is an obvious imbalance in the brake arms and the arms

Fig 6. Typical Brake Block Assembly. Note the washer padding for a persistent balance problem. The wide and narrow concave washers are sometimes interchanged to accommodate available block designs.

Adjusting Rim Brakes were recently reinstalled, then consider this possibility. Although some frames are provided with three holes for the location pins, some brakes only work on one particular position, so take note during any disassembly as to which holes were used. Obstructed Cables and Housings It has been noted that accessories such as straps, lock cables, and bungee cords are easily forgotten, and can bear upon brake cables in such a way as to make the balance seem impossible. The same condition is possible when the parts at the ends of cable housings (ferrules), become unseated during brake work; the entire brake balance suffers. Baggage on the front handlebars can kink cable housings, and a similar binding can be found in folding bicycles; in the latter case, when the bike is unfolded, make sure that any tight loops near the hinge points are straightened before making off. If the change is fairly sudden, and in particular after parking the bike or unhooking the cable bridge, then look for these simple solutions. Wheel not Centered Many brake balance problems are associated with wheel positioning. There are at least three situations to consider: When a quick-release wheel is positioned within the wheel arch it can happen that it is not fully engaged in the dropouts. This happens when a wheel is installed with the bike in a stand or otherwise above ground. A gap is often visible. This problem causes the brake blocks to close on the rubber of the wheels instead of the rims, so it is not subtle. Reset the wheel. Brakes are adjusted for the quick release lever positioned on the left of the bike. When a front wheel is wrongly installed with the clamp on the right, the existing brake balance will be upset. Reinstall the wheel with the lever on the left. When a wheel's skewer-clamp is tightened it is important to hold the wheel in a correctly centered position during the process. Bad centering can also cause the bike to run poorly, might feel a bit heavy, and can make shifts a bit less certain. The two springs, one on each end of the skewer, (both with their pointed ends inwards) are there to help the skewer start off in the center. The springs are not strictly necessary for the skewer to work, and as such they might be missing. In any case a wheel can be centered by adjusting both the lever and the locknut. One way to do this is to slacken both ends until the exposed screw threads look about equal, then tighten both the locknut and the lever a little bit at a time. Make final adjustments in the same way until resistance is first noted when the closing of the lever approaches the horizontal. Some tires have a center ridge that is useful for checking that the wheel is centered. When this problem is corrected the brake balancing adjustments will come into range, and the bike might even run better. Brake Arm Washers Each brake arm has a brake block and on its screw thread there are various washers. One of these washers is wider than the other, and they are interchanged by some users, depending on the kind of brake pull that they want. If the brake blocks (pads) were recently changed or removed, check that there is symmetry in the positions of their wider washers. If one pad has the wide washer near to the pad and the other has it nearest to the nut then the distance of each brake block to the rim will be different and they will not balance. Badly Worn Brake Blocks If one brake block has been worn down much more than the other then that might affect whether or not the brakes balance, especially if it is combined with some other trivial factor. Inspect the blocks and if changing them be sure to change both at the same time. Generally speaking, if a brake block has been worn down so that any part of any of any of its grooves is no longer clear then they both need replaced. All Else Fails If the brakes balance, but at opposite screw extremes, then further adjustments are prevented. First consider all of the above solutions; i.e., is the tighter of the two binding, etc.? If you are stuck with unmatched springs in

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Adjusting Rim Brakes the brake arms, (rare, since the set that came with the bike are matched in manufacture), it may be possible to get the screws back into mid-range with a washer or two. Add thin 6mm washers, as shown in Figure 6, to the brake block assembly that habitually has the wider of the two gaps. Adjust the number of washers until the balance is achieved closer to the balance screws' midpoints. When all else has failed, and a fix of this kind is being considered, do not forget to consider the buying of a new set of brakes, and getting the bike shop to first take a look. Soft Brakes If brakes are softer than intended, even after adjustment, then it might be that the toeing-in is excessive. Also, if wheel wobble causes rubbing on the brake blocks, widening the gaps will necessarily soften the brakes. See the comments below. Excessive Toeing-in It is impossible to set firm brakes if the blocks cannot be set close to the rims. For brakes needing narrow' clearances, e.g. 1mm to 1.5mm, the toeing-in needs also to be narrower than usual. If the toeing-in were set to the usual 1mm more than the front of the block, then for the above example, the average clearance for each block would be 1.5mm to 2mm, and the brake would feel soft. Thus, the toeing-in needs to be minimal if a firm or hard brake is required. In fact some brake manufacturers recommend no toeing-in for their products. Brakes that use wider settings by design, are affected less by toeing-in. Wheel Wobble Wheel wobble causes repetitive brake noise but most brake noises are unimportant. The most common cause is debris from the road. Also, new tires have rubber tails on them that rub on brake blocks, but these can be trimmed. Badly centered wheels can also cause some rubbing of the brakes. It is as well to check this if the problem follows recent wheel work. These noises are not serious. If there is even a slight wheel wobble then brake block clearances will need to be widened to avoid the repetitive rubbing noise. Although some wheel wobble is inevitable, when it is excessive then repairs may be required. In that case see: Truing a bicycle wheel , in an attempt to handle it yourself, or consider getting some advice from your bike shop. For brakes that need narrow clearances, say 1mm, the issue of wheel balance is more critical. Widening the block clearances to 2mm, to accommodate a slight wobble makes softer brakes, but in most cases these will still be safe. However, if the wobble worsens, then continuing to widen the clearances will lead to ineffective brakes long before the wheel itself becomes unusable. Brakes designed for wider clearances will accommodate more wobble before the brakes suffer.

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Cables and Housings

The subject has been given a separate page at Cables and Housings.

See Also
Bicycle Brake Systems [4] : A main Wikipedia article on bike brakes The Bicycle [5] : A main Wikipedia article on the bicycle Coaster Brakes : WikiBooks entry. Cables and Housings

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External Links
CTC Hire Standard (57kb pdf) [6] : Bicycle standards for other than the point of sale. Shimano BR F700 Brake Adjustment (181kb pdf) [2] : A better than average how-to file Shimano BR F700 Brake Parts List (83kb pdf) [3] : A better than average parts list Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Technical Info [7] : A thorough site about all things to do with bikes - has lots on maintenance and brakes Park Tool's Bike Repair Site [8] : A reliable and well known bike repair site

References
[1] http:/ / en. wikibooks. org/ wiki/ Bicycles/ Maintenance_and_Repair/ Brakes/ Adjusting_brakes#Fine_Adjustments [2] http:/ / techdocs. shimano. com/ media/ techdocs/ content/ cycle/ SI/ Capreo/ BR-F700/ SI-8CU0A_EN_v1_m56577569830604449. PDF [3] http:/ / techdocs. shimano. com/ media/ techdocs/ content/ cycle/ EV/ bikecomponents/ BR/ EV-BR-M420-1901_v1_m56577569830609070. pdf [4] http:/ / en. wikipedia. org/ wiki/ Bicycle_brake_systems [5] http:/ / en. wikipedia. org/ wiki/ Bicycles [6] http:/ / www. ctc. org. uk/ resources/ About_the_Bike/ CTC_Hire_Standard. pdf [7] http:/ / www. sheldonbrown. com/ [8] http:/ / www. parktool. com/ repair/ byregion. asp?catid=53& imageField2. x=14& imageField2. y=12

Coaster Brakes
Coaster Brakes
Coaster brakes don't need adjusting but they may need lubricating to reduce wear. They are supposed to be greased with a special high viscosity lubricant such as Sachs: "fett fur stahlbremsmantel" which is likely no longer available. So instead use a cheap, high friction grease. To take the hub apart, Torpedo and Sturmey Archer say to start on the brake lever side, but I've seen the opposite proposed. However, you need to take apart the hub to apply grease so it's a lot easier to lubricate the brakes with heavy oil that doesn't contain anti-friction additives. Apply it via an oil filler hole in the hub (if it exists). Don't use oil with anti-friction additives such as teflon or graphite that will result in slippery brakes. On a long downgrade of over 1000 feet (300 M) the coaster brake may overheat and the any oil in it may boil and smoke. One may try filling the hub with water to keep the brakes cool by generating steam. Make sure that all the water has boiled off by the end of your trip. Do not expect a coaster brake to perform reliably or safely in hilly terrain. It's even possible to melt metal inside the hub. Also realize that if your chain derails or breaks, your coaster brake will no longer function.

See Also
Adjusting Rim Brakes [1] : WikiBooks article

References
[1] http:/ / en. wikibooks. org/ wiki/ Bicycles/ Maintenance_and_Repair/ Brakes/ Adjusting_brakes

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Cables and Housings

General
Both cable and cable housings are used for nearly all braking and gear shifting, and this installation method greatly simplifies the running of cables in the modern bicycle. This use of an inner steel wire in an outer housing is referred to as a Bowden cable, after its inventor. Although some bicycles manage with just a bare inner wire in those places where the cables run straight, all other parts of the cable, and in particular those that might bend while riding, need to be fitted with housings. In this context the term cable is intended to mean the inner-wire, the steel wire that attaches brake levers to brakes, and shifters to derailleurs. The housing is the flexible outer-tubing that surrounds the cable and acts as a conduit for it. The terms cabling and cable run refer to the Bowden cable as a whole. Perhaps surprisingly, and despite looking just like a plastic tube, a housing is in fact steel-reinforced along its entire length.

Bicycle brakes, showing a housing transition (top left), and a rubber cable noodle (top center).

How Cable Housings Work

Cable housings always have both of their ends fixed. Fixed in this sense means pressed loosely against the screw-end of a barrel adjuster, or fixed hard into a part of the frame called a cable-stop. Brake housings are also made to terminate hard against one of the two brake arms, with the inner cable continuing to the other brake arm. That is to say, brake gaps depend on the difference in length between the inner cable and its housing.

Typical Brake Details A. Cable Housing.B. Housing End Ferrule.C. Cable Guide.D. Housing Detent. E. Rubber Noodle.F. Cable Clamp.G. Cable Tail.H. Cable Cap. I. Brake ArmJ. Brake Block (Pad).K. Block Setting Screw.L. Arm Mounting Bolt.

Cables and Housings

31 In the case of a run to a derailleur, the housing abuts with the derailleur's static part and the cable runs on to rotate the moving parts of the shifting gear. A similar argument to the one for brakes applies in that it is the difference between the effective housing length and the inner cable's length that sets the exact degree of operation, (rotation in this case). Although flexible, a housing is not easily deformed by the action of the cable within it. In braking, for example, the tendency of the cable is to deform the housing in the front cable route, but this is prevented by the housing's longitudinal reinforcement, (the steel wires along its length). The housing has more rigidity than the steel cable itself. To illustrate this point, it will be noticed during even hard braking that the housing loop on the handlebars does not change its shape. That is to say, although flexible, a housing behaves as if were a rigid conduit, and the overall cable pull is noted only at

A rear derailleur with its own barrel-adjuster. Notice the metal ferrule at the point where the cable housing enters.

the housing's end, where the brakes or derailleur are located. Clearly there are two ways to affect the length difference between the cable and its housing. The simplest way is to operate the brake lever or gear shifter. These affect the length of cables and the equipment attached to them respond accordingly, while the housing length remains constant. The other method, used for fine adjustments only, acts on the effective housing length. Because the housing resists length changes, its length can only be changed by an additional in-line element; it is called a barrel-adjuster. In fact, a barrel adjuster should be thought of as an extension of its associated section of cable housing. It is used when only a few millimeters of adjustment is required. Continuing with the brake example: Recall that one end of a brake housing rests in the end of the barrel-adjuster, and the other elsewhere. When the looped cable run at the handlebars is extended by unscrewing the brake's barrel adjuster, then it follows that a few millimeters of cable must also enter that section to occupy it. In fact, the cable moves into the housing's end (at the brakes) to achieve this, with the result that the attached brake arm is pulled inward. The housing is effectively lengthened by unscrewing the barrel-adjuster, and this increasing of the housing length with respect to cable length reduces the brake gaps. The converse action occurs when the housing is effectively shortened; the barrel-adjuster is screwed in to increase the brake gaps. It is perhaps of interest to note that some housings are installed with two sections and a bare cable between them. That is to say, the section of housing at the handlebar's barrel adjuster runs to a fixed point on the frame, called a cable-stop. Then the inner wire runs on as a bare cable, and through another housing-end that is also fixed in a cable-stop. That second housing then ends at the brake arms or derailleur in the usual way. In this case the principle remains the same as for a single housing, where sections without barrel-adjusters act merely to guide the cable and avoid resistance at transitions. Sections that are straight and lack barrel-adjusters need not have any housings at all. Sometimes there are two barrel-adjusters in a single cable run, where the second is located on the fixed part of a derailleur. The adjustments of the two are additive, where both can affect the tension. They behave identically in

Cables and Housings their cable lengthening and shortening behaviour. Note the emphasis in this page on ferrules making a loose fit in the ends of barrel-adjusters. If a ferrule there made a tight fit then the entire housing would twist when the barrel was turned, so confounding the effort. During the normal operation of shifters and brake levers the cables move in and out of the housings. In the case of a shifter, the cable is pulled-in or extended by only a few millimeters at a time; about 2.3mm for Shimano 10-speeds up to 4.5mm for SRAM 7-speed 1:1 GripShifts. Brake cable also moves only a few millimeters, although it is often more than the 2mm or so needed to close the brake gaps, because of the leverage effect of the brake arms. If, during these operations, the cable housings were also to change in length, brakes might bind and shifting would become uncertain. Housings of good quality are manufactured to avoid casual lengthening, and are sometimes described as incompressible. However, the use of such an expression does not in itself guarantee that a housing is suitable for the task, so the best approach is to use only those products that are stated by the manufacturer as intended for the specific purpose.

32

Cabling Components
The common parts of a cable installation are these. A steel cable, consisting of several twisted wires runs the entire length of the cable housing and is usually contained in an inner-sheath for its protection and improved lubrication. The inner-sheath and its cable are housed within a steel-reinforced plastic tube. Inner Wires Pre-stretched: Some inner wires are sold as pre-stretched so that they do not give rise to so much need for adjustment after installation. It is usual for other cables to stretch slightly, especially when they are new, though this just requires an occasional barrel-adjustment. Coatings: Inner wires are sometimes coated with TEFLON, to protect them against rusting, but because cables in housings are exposed only at their ends, this feature is useful mainly for bikes with bare cable runs. If cable ends are to be soldered to avoid fraying, any such coatings should first be removed by scraping. Cable end terminals (anchors): The steel cables have welded end pieces (see image) that are shaped to fit into slots in shifters or brake levers and because

A brake housing, pared to show its parts. Notice the inner plastic sleeve for the cable and the strong spiral reinforcement. It is rarely now used for gear-shifting since the introduction of housings with longitudinal support.

A gear-shift housing (magnified). It also has an inner plastic sleeve for the cable, but in this case has longitudinal reinforcement to better resist length changes.

It is not used for braking, since it is weaker than the spirally wound version.

cables are not interchangeable as to their purpose, there are three main types of inner-cable sold. A brake cable has either a barrel-shaped end, for bikes without drop-handlebars, or a pear-shaped end for the racing types with

Cables and Housings drop-handlebars. Cables for shifters have a button-shaped end. The free end of a cable is usually welded so that the wires cannot fray while the cable is being threaded through its housings. Some cables for brakes have a barrel at one end and a pear-termination at the other so that the user can discard the one that is not needed. These latter types are referred to as universal though the term is also used to describe some products that contain a complete brake or shifting kit that is long enough to fit most bikes. Thickness: Steel cables for brakes and shifting are usually of between 1.1 and 1.5mm diameter, and even the thinnest of such cables has a carrying strength in excess of 250lbs. Cable caps: These are small metallic pieces (see image) that fit over the open cable ends to prevent fraying. They are usually crimped with pliers, though they can be soldered. Alternatives to these include spoke caps and lead fishing weights. Do not confuse these with ferrules: ferrules fit onto cable housings while end-caps fit onto the free ends of steel cables. Lubrication: Most modern housings have inner sleeves that are pre-lubricated, so additional lubrication is rarely needed. If it is considered necessary, then adding a little light machine oil, (bicycle oil), to the cable at the time of assembly, or at the points where cables enter housings will have the desired effect. Housing Types For Brakes: The main product for brakes is made with reinforcement in a continuous spiral with its coils very close together. This structure is useful for brake housings since it is stronger than housing with longitudinal reinforcement. It is not necessarily the least compressible but it wins on strength alone where safety is the most serious consideration. It is considered that for brakes a very small length change in housings is less important than it would be for gear shifting, though with the advent of v-brake 1mm block clearances the issue is by no means resolved. It may have been noted by some that when a bike is not being ridden, an excessive twist of the handlebars or the bending caused by folding a bike can cause a rear brake to operate. However, it is unlikely that such bending could happen while actually riding the bike, provided that the housings were made specifically for brakes, and are of good quality.

33

Various cable ends. From left to right, a cable cap, a brake cable anchor with its housing and crimped ferrule, and a shift cable anchor

For Gear Shifting: The preferred product for gear-shifting uses longitudinal reinforcement, and is stated as being compressionless. These housings suffer virtually no length changes when the cables are moved or subjected to end pressure, and as such are ideally suited to cog sets with a narrow pitch. For example, Shimano gear trains use as little as 2.3mm of cable pull to change gear with its 10-speed cog-sets, so a fairly small length change in a housing might become significant. Housing with longitudinally arranged reinforcement, is not as strong as the housing with spiral steel so should not be used for brakes. Use only good quality housings that are made

Cables and Housings for the specific purpose. Sizes: Cable housings for bicycles exist in both 4mm and 5mm diameters, and their ferrules and other tight fittings must be selected to match. Although in the past these housings have been manufactured only with black coatings, they are generally available in a dozen or so colors to match bike color schemes in both diameters. The most commonly used size for brakes is of 5mm diameter, and for shifting is 4mm, but exceptions commonly exist and both sizes are to be found for each purpose. Check the sizes of the old housings and ferrules before any new purchase, to make sure that the new ones will still loose-fit the barrel-adjusters. Ferrules and Fittings Ferrules: These are end-caps that fit onto both ends of the housing. They prevent the fraying of the housing ends and present a durable surface to press against barrel adjusters or fittings on the frame. They also act as cable guides to ensure that the cable is aligned with the housings' sleeves. They are often made of plastic, but sometimes are made of metal. In general, the plastic items are the most common and are made to be a tight fit on the housing, while metal ferrules are often crimped to secure them. Ferrules are made for a particular diameter of A Universal Brake Cable: Each cable has two anchor types; the one on the right is housing. Some ferrules are made to fit for MTB bikes, (straight handlebars), and the one on the left is for road bikes, into the frame's cable stops, though these (drop handlebars). The end that is not needed is removed by cutting. might not be the correct diameter for the end of the barrel adjuster. In particular, the fittings found on some universal products (housing, cable, and fittings complete ), while fitting points on the frame, might need special care to make sure that they are a loose fit in the barrel. Transitions: Brakes arms are connected to the cable housing at the cable bridge, where a nipple on a cable transition locks onto it. This fitting has a sweeping curve that allows the incoming cable direction to be changed without kinking the cable or its housing. It is either a solid transition or is sprung. Cable housings are tightly pressed into these transitions so must be selected with the correct diameter. They are often supplied at purchase with a cable noodle, a flexible rubber piece to protect the exposed cable at the brake arm assembly. Barrel-adjusters: These fittings are most often sold as a part of a brake lever, a gear shifter, or a derailleur, but they are sometimes supplied as accessories for the middle of a cable run. The adjusters on handlebars can be adjusted while pedalling so are more convenient than those installed elsewhere on the bike. In any case, all barrel-adjusters must be able to loose-fit a housing ferrule in their ends, and since housings and ferrules exist in both 4 and 5 mm sizes, it is important to make sure that any ferrule used will not bind there. Cable stops on frames: Many bicycle frames have points on them to receive housing ferrules; these are referred to as cable stops. Whether or not there is a standard size for these openings is at present unclear, and in any case the main point is that they fit at all. (But see comments above for ferrules in barrel adjuster openings.)

34

Cables and Housings

35

Various barrel adjusters, frame stops, and transitions.

This kind of adjuster is found on some rear derailleurs. It can exist in addition to one on the shifter. A brake barrel adjuster. The large ring is a lock for the smaller one, the adjuster. Notice the crimped ferrule where the housing makes a loose entry. A cable stop welded to the frame. A silver housing with a ferrule fits at the bottom and the internal steel cable continues at the top. Note the black barrel adjuster on the gear shifter and the silver one on the brake lever.

This type of cable cap is crimped onto cable ends, like the ones on the brake and derailleur. A typical plastic barrel-adjuster. The housing normally would abut within the adjuster-cap while the cable continues onward.

Cables and Housings

36

Installing Housings
Minor Repairs
It is rare for complete housings to need replaced, and most of the time it is a matter of trimming a bad housing end at the barrel-adjuster, replacing ferrules, or tidying up a messy cable end. Provided that the handlebar loop in the housing is fairly generous, and in particular, provided that about ten or twelve centimeters (about 4 inches or so) could be removed from it there without any problem, then the existing housing might be reused for all three of these situations. The basis for this comment is as follows:

Cable housings on a bike's handlebars. The gradual sweeps are good, but they

In order to trim the housing's end, and might need slightly more spare for any rework . perhaps fit a new ferrule at the adjuster on the handlebars, the cable must be removed from the housing, and reinserted after the changes. When the cable is removed from its brake or derailleur clamp the part that is flattened by the clamp will not feed through the housing, and so the flattened end of the cable must be removed. Now, in order to find enough spare cable for re-clamping, an additional ten or twelve centimeters (about 4 inches) of housing at the handlebars will need to be removed during the trimming process. Thus, provided that there is enough spare housing at the handlbars, all will be well. A short consideration will show that an identical situation exists whenever a flattened cable tail needs to be removed.

Housing Length
Occasionally cable housings are completely replaced, for example, in favor of the new colored housing varieties, or when the wrong thing was installed in the first place. It might also happen that numerous changes have left the housings a bit short. In any case, when replacing housings be sure to consider the following points: If replacing housings entirely, it is best to replace the cables at the same time. This will allow you to install the spare capacity that is needed for any future repairs. (See above). The most important consideration for the quality of installation lies in ensuring that they are installed with only smooth curves, and have no sudden direction changes. No figures have been found for the required minimum radii of curvature in housings, so the matter is largely based on what works well. The matter of minimum length is easier to establish. The worst situation for handlebar restriction on cables is when the handlebars are turned in either direction to their fullest extent. Generally speaking this will meet the minimum requirement, provided that the cable bends are not too sharp. In addition to this, consider the possible future need to rework the housings, so add at least an extra ten or twelve centimeters (4 inches or so) of housing to the minimum length. Finally, consider whether or not the planned length is how you intend it to look from any other points of view, and possibly add more, but not less to the total. The consequence of excessively long cables is snagging, but this is mostly of concern for downhill riding or perhaps road racing. If the existing housing lengths were satisfactory, then just make the new ones the same length.

Cables and Housings

37

Cutting
The only reliable way to cut housings and cables is with a special cable cutter made for the purpose; these are available from most bike shops and by internet purchase. Pliers, side cutters, hacksaws, all will make a mess of it. A housing cutter has a v-shape in each blade that avoids collapsing the end while it Cable cutters are used to cut bicycle cables and housings. Few alternatives exist for is cut, and even then the end of cut housings this purpose, the specially notched blades being designed to make a clean cut need cleared so that the cable can fit into the without undue crushing of the housing's end. inner sleeve. Some housing kits are supplied for particular bikes, cut to length, and with the ferrules pre-fitted, but the material that follows assumes that they must be constructed. A housing cutter can also be used to cut the inner cable, but before doing any stripping of the old work or cutting, it is as well to also be aware of these points: Do not remove the welded end from a new inner cable until the very last thing in the fitting process. This will avoid any cable fraying. If working with some shifters such as SRAM GripShifts, be careful not to entirely remove the cable from them, since these are supplied pre-wired and refitting them can be difficult or impossible. Many other shifters have no such difficulty in refitting their cable ends, and brake cable ends are always easy to refit. Remove any cable, and make a square cut in the housing at the chosen point. If the cut is bad, or the end badly mangled make another a few millimeters from it. Clear the cable sleeve with a small object; the smallest hex wrench has been found useful, as has the passing of a piece of old cable through the housing from the other end to clear it . A cocktail stick or toothpick might be useful for this also. In any case, for success the cable must be able to pass freely into the entire length of the housing's cable sleeve with the ferrules fitted. First check that the ferrules fit their intended insertion points then Fit the ferrules onto the housings. Cutting all of the housings to length and fitting their ferrules before running the cable is the best check of the ferrule's alignment, and prevents missing out a ferrule during the wiring, but the cable could be run through the ferrules and housings separately, and these items connected afterwards if this proves more convenient.

Assembly
Because each change to installed cabling and housing causes the loss of cable length, it is best if assembly and final clamping of cable is put off until all changes are complete. The general procedure, starting at the handlebars, is as follows: Fix the cable terminal: Insert the cable terminals, the barrel, pear-end, or button into the brake lever or shifter in accordance with the instructions for the equipment. For brakes this usually means lining up the slots in the barrel adjusters so that the terminals can be anchored in the underside of the levers. Some shifters use a similar method but others are pre-wired, (eg: SRAM GripShift 7-speed Comp); in these latter cases be careful not remove the cable from the shifter. Add the first housing: With the cable anchored, thread the intact welded end of the cable through the ferrule-fitted housing, and take up the slack cable so that the housing's ferrule is sitting freely inside the end of the barrel adjuster. Dress the housing loop at the handlebars and press the housing into any guides on the frame, being careful to maintain gradual sweeps in any transitions. If the cable run uses a cable stop in the frame for the first housing section then press the ferrule into it. Repeat for any other sections of housing in the cable run, (you may leave a straight middle section bare if necessary). Take up the slack. Dress the cable end: Dress the last housing's end into any cable stops and fit any end parts that are needed.

Cables and Housings In the case of brakes: After attaching the piece with the end nipple, fix its nipple into the slot on the brake's cable bridge, and loose-wire the cable past the cable clamp. Take up the slack, check the cable remains in place and that the ferrules are still seated. In the case of derailleurs: Thread the cable end around the derailleur in accordance with the manufacturer's details and loose-wire the cable past the cable clamp. Derailleurs usually have a groove or channel for the cable route at the derailleur. Note that the way that the cable is finally clamped (e.g. near side, far side, top or bottom), can affect the leverage of shifting and in all cases the installation instructions for the derailleur should be followed. Take up the slack, check the cable remains in place and that the ferrules are still seated. Attach the cable ends: Only when it is certain that the work is complete should the cables be attached. Follow the instructions for brake or derailleur adjustment in attaching the inner cables. (See the links below). Cut the cable end: Only after the brakes or derailleur is both adjusted and tested should the cable be cut. Allow at least 10cms (about 4 inches) of cable tail beyond the clamp, and after cutting, crimp a cable cap onto the cable to prevent fraying, and make sure that the tail is clear of moving parts.

38

See Also
Derailleur Adjustments Brake Maintenance

Chains
See Also
Chain sizes Chain cleaning and lubrication Checking a chain for wear Removing a bicycle chain Mending a broken chain

External Links
The Complete Guide to Chain [1] - general, not specific to bicycles

References
[1] http:/ / chain-guide. com/

Chain clean and lube

39

Chain clean and lube

Commonly dry and wet chain lubrification are utilized. A dry lube hardens on the chain and is excellent for dusty rides, but does not protect from moisture and is typically used in hot summer climates. A wet lube is used whenever there is a chance of water getting on the chain. The downside of a wet lube is that dirt readily clings to it causing wear of the bike's transmission components. The proper method for lubricating a chain is to wipe off any dirt or old lube. Then drip fresh lube onto each link. Then turn the cranks backwards a few turns and wipe off any excess chain lube that has come to the surface (this old/excess lube will be black.)

Chain sizes
There are several relevant measurements for a chain, some more relevant than others: pitch distance between rollers -- always the same (1/2") on modern bikes, so it doesn't really matter internal width distance between insides of the plates -- almost always the same (3/32" for the common derailleur-equipped bike, 1/8" otherwise) external width greatest outside width of the chain; often this turns out to be the width of the pins (that go through each roller and connect the plates). This width varies for 3/32" chains, and the width required depends on the number of speeds that the chain needs to work with on the rear cog cluster length the total end-to-end length of the chain, which is variable by adding/removing links

Internal width: 3/32" or 1/8"?

Bikes with just one cog in back -- single-speed, fixed-gear/fixed wheel, and internally geared bikes like 3-speeds -traditionally use 1/8" chains if the chainwheel and sprocket are 1/8, but use 3/32" chains if they are 3/32. So, get the correct width, but if in doubt, get 1/8" as it will work on 3/32 chainwheels and sprockets but it's not ideal. A 1/8" chain will not work correctly on a deraileured bike. A 3/32 will not work on a 1/8 chainwheel and sprocket.

External width
The external width matters for derailleur-equipped bikes because rear cogs are spaced close enough together such that a chain that's too wide will rub on adjacent cogs. So, the width of chain required basically depends on the number of cogs (speeds) in back, since clusters with more speeds have their cogs spaced closer together. In general, drivetrains up to and including 8 speeds can use the same speed chain. The packaging/marketing chains often don't mention that they work with 5, 6, 7, or 8-speed bikes -- but if it mentions compatibility with any of these speeds, then it is compatible with all. The pin width of these chains is usually 7.1 or 7.2mm. 9-speed drivetrains use chains up to 6.8mm wide. These are typically explicitly marketed as 9-speed chains. 10-speed drivetrains use chains up to 6.2mm or so wide. Again, these are marketed as 10-speed chains.

Chain sizes It is usually possible to use a narrower chain on a fewer-speeds drivetrain, but beware of narrow 9-speed and above chains with old chainsets as the chain may drop between the rings when changing down to the inner ring. There's no significant benefit to doing so though since 9- and 10-speed chains are more expensive.

40

Chain Length
The length of a loop of roller chain can be defined in two primary units: pitches and links. A pitch of chain is the center-to-center distance between two rollers. A link of roller chain is the smallest segment of chain that can be removed from a loop of chain and still allow the loop to be reconnected. A link is exactly two pitches of chain, which includes one set of outer plates and one set of inner plates. If a single pitch of chain needs to be removed, the ends of the loop will need to be reconnected with a special type of master link called a half link. A half link performs the job of the outer plates on one of its ends, and the job of inner plates (and roller and bushing) on its other end. On a derailleur-equipped bicycle, the chain must be sized so that the drivetrain can be shifted into the large-large combination of front and rear gears, and so that in the small-small combination of front and rear gears that there's no sag in the chain and also no rubbing between the two pulleys of the rear derailleur. One of the simplest ways to size a chain is described by Sheldon Brown on his website [1]. In short, thread the chain tight around the large-large sprocket combination, but not through the rear derailleur. Find the tightest point where you could connect the ends of the chain. From that point, count out one more link of chain (which will be one inch when dealing with bicycle chain) to determine the total number of links required. Once the chain is shortened to this point and installed on the bike, it is long enough to handle all possible gear combinations. The other common ways of determining chain size are described in detail on the informative Park Tool website [2].

Sources & References

Sheldon Brown - http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html and http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment. html#chain Peter Verdone - http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/bikechains.htm Park Tool - http://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=26 Pardo's Chain Wear and Measuring Tools - http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-004/000.html

References
[1] http:/ / sheldonbrown. com/ derailer-adjustment. html#chain [2] http:/ / parktool. com/ repair/ readhowto. asp?id=26

Checking chain wear

41

Checking chain wear

Chains increase in length over time due to wear on the pins and bushings. Continuing to use a chain that is beyond a reasonable length can not only cause the chain to "skip" when pedalling under pressure but will also wear out the rest of your drivetrain as the teeth on the cassette/freewheel and chainrings try to match the length of the chain. If you catch a chain before it is too worn you can dramatically increase the life of the rest of your drivetrain. To check the length of your chain there are two methods. The ruler method requires only a ruler and is more accurate. Line up a rivet with the zero mark on a standard ruler. Next, you look for the closest rivet to the 12" (304.8mm) mark. On a new chain the rivet will line up exactly, if the rivet is 1/8" (3.175mm) or more past the 12" (304.8mm) mark, the chain needs to be replaced. If you have access to a tool (e.g. Park CC-2), you can put the pins of the tool into the chain and rotate a dial to obtain a reading indicating the length of your chain. A reading of under 0.5% means the chain is okay, and over 0.5% means the chain needs to be replaced. If, when you replace your chain, it skips under pressure, this is an indicator that other parts of your drivetrain need to be replaced too. First of all replace the block (freewheel or cassette), if that does not cure the problem you may need to replace the chainrings. More information: http:/ / sheldonbrown. com/ chains. html How to clean your chain: http:/ / www. youtube. com/ watch?v=kMGxiLc8jHE Trouble Shooting Guide http://chain-guide.com/basics/7-1-6-troubleshooting.html If there doesn't seem to be any wear be sure that your derailleur is in the correct position. If you still have problems with the chain riding up and skipping, see this walk through: http:/ / bicycles. stackexchange. com/ questions/ 9534/ why-is-my-chain-riding-up-and-skipping-teeth-on-the-freewheel

Installing a new chain

42

Installing a new chain

Installing a new chain
In general a new chain comes with detailed mounting instructions. For Shimano 8 speed or more , chain can be shipped : 1. With a preinstalled pin , that can be used to close the chain 2. Without preinstalled pin, but with a special reinforced connecting pin Important is for Shimano, and probably for many modern chains, to DO NOT reuse ordinary pins . It is explained here : [1] On modern Shimano chains you should push the original rivet out entirely and replace it with a special replacement rivet, reinstalling the original pin is likely to cause the chain to break at that point.

References
[1] http:/ / www. parktool. com/ repair/ readhowto. asp?id=25

Mending a broken chain

Mending a broken chain
Newer, narrower chains and wider chains for single speed or three speed bicycles often have special links for removing the chain, but the chain tool is still needed to remove excess links when replacing chains. A chain tool can be used to push out the rivet which joins the plates of the chain together. Many chain tools have two positions the chain will fit- make sure the plate furthest from the extractor pin is supported by the tool. Once this is done the chain can be replaced or re-assembled as a shorter chain. Most chains will have enough slack to allow removal of a few links without making the chain too short. Avoid pushing the rivet all the way out, it should remain lodged in one of the outer plates. A small portion of the rivet left protruding on the inside of the plate can hold the chain together during reinstallation. Use the same position in the chain tool, with the chain plate furthest from the chain tool's pin supported, and push the rivet back into place. After reinstallation, the link will usually be too stiff- leading to chain skip unless loosened. The other position in two-position chain tools, with the closer plate supported by the tool, is used for loosening tight links. Force the side of the rivet that protrudes more into the link to loosen the link. Alternatively, grasping the chain on both sides of the tight link and flexing the chain in and out will loosen the link.

Note
Although they're made of metal, chains seem to "stretch" as the links wear. This will cause them to not engage on the gears properly (they will hook on to the middle or top of the tooth, instead of the bottom of the groove). This will also cause the gear teeth to wear down. To test for excessive wear on a chain, open a link and remove the chain. Then try to flex the chain sideways, in the direction it is not supposed to bend. If you can make anything more than a 1/8 arc (for example, if you can make a half circle or if you can touch the ends), then your chain is worn and should be replaced. Alternatively, measure a straight section of chain under slight tension. Standard links of chain measure one inch when new- if 11 links of chain measure 11 1/8" (283 mm) or more the chain should be replaced. If you only replace the chain and not the gears, the chain may skip. For this reason, it is best to replace both at the same time (the front gears are not as affected by this because they are bigger and the chain doesn't pass over each

Mending a broken chain tooth as many times). Replacing the chain more often, when 11 links measure 11 1/16" (281 mm), will allow the gears to be reused .

43

Avoiding Chain Wear

To prevent such wear, avoid using gear combinations that stretch the chain diagonally. Also change gears only when you are turning the pedals. Remember to gear down when coming to a stop.

Removing a Bicycle Chain

Introduction
The removing or shortening of a bike chain usually requires a chain tool, a tool that can drive a pin out of the chain. Some individuals choose to disassemble and reassemble a derailleur's jockey wheels rather than to cut a chain, for example, when changing a derailleur. Many older bikes, without a derailleur, have a master link that Figure 3: A SRAM Corporation Powerlink. This type of master link replaces two can be opened with a flat-head screwdriver, outer plates of the chain. The manufacturer supplies the item separately and with each of its new chains. whereas chains in modern derailleur bicycles more often use a master link like the ones shown in the images below. Sometimes a master link is supplied as a part of a new chain.

With a Master Link

The SRAM master link [1] and links that resemble it can be opened by pushing the outer plates of the master link together and inward at the same time. This can be done with your hands, or if it's too tight it may require a special tool (see image). Ordinary pliers have been known to work for some, but the process can be painful and uncertain without the proper item. In an emergency, and provided that you do not mind destroying the master link in the process, a chain tool can be used to drive out its pins. These links are compatible with Shimano chains, as long as they are for the same number of gears on the cassette. i.e. 7, 8 or 9 cogs.

Removing a Bicycle Chain

44

Without a Master Link

If you do not use a master link, it is possible to break a chain with a chain tool (see image). Unfortunately, chain tools are no use at re-inserting straight pins, (unlike Shimano tapered pins), so the important thing here is to avoid removing them all the way; they must stay in the outer plates, even when the rollers are free. Place the chain in the tool and carefully line up the tool's pin with a rivet of the chain; tighten the screw until the pin pushes out far enough so that it still remains generously within the outer plate. If the rivet is pushed all the way out, it is very difficult to reinsert it, and it is likely that a master link will be needed to make the connection. Withdraw the chain tool's screw to break the chain, and if necessary it can be advanced a little more until it can be separated.
Figure 3: Another type of master link. This type of master link is supplied by CLARKS and has a slightly curved profile. It is cheaper than the SRAM product, though comparative quality data is elusive.

Shimano Riveted Chains

Shimano chains use special tapered rivets that can be guided into the holes in the outer plates. These use a pin driver (chain tool) to both drive out the pins and to push the pins into place. Any pin excess is then snapped off, at a grooved weak point in the pin.

See Also
Master Links [1] : The Wikipedia article on master links

Removing a Bicycle Chain

45

A chain tool, used to reduce its length or to break the chain loop when there is no master link.

If the master link is too tight to remove by hand, these pliers, made specially to grip the rounded rollers, will easily remove it.

References
[1] http:/ / en. wikipedia. org/ wiki/ Master_link

Setting chain length

46

Setting chain length

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-length-sizing http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html http://autobus.cyclingnews.com/clickthru.php3?url=/tech/fix/?id=chainlength http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2376/setting-chain-length http://www.ehow.com/video_2361580_set-up-bicycle-chain.html http://www.ehow.com/video_2361521_proper-chain-length-shram-fs.html http:/ / www. shimano. com/ publish/ content/ global_cycle/ en/ us/ index/ tech_support/ tech_tips. download. -Par50rparsys-0020-downloadFile.html/14)%20Shadow%20RD%20Tips.pdf

Cleaning parts
Cleaning parts can be done with a cleaning solution of some kind, and/or with a rag or stiff brush. A couple of notes about cleaning products: Solvents must be thoroughly cleaned off parts that are to be re-lubricated. Residual solvent will have a solvent effect on the replacement lubricant. Even a bio-degradable solvent will have whatever substance it removed mixed in with it after use, and thus must be treated according to both the laws applicable to the solvent itself and the dissolved substances.

Power Washer
Using a power washer is an option in some situations, but care must be taken not to displace lubricant from parts. A high pressure stream of water is capable of displacing the grease from a bearing surface, including from sealed bearings, which are not designed to be lubricated by the user. Some very powerful power washers can also take the paint off of a bike. As such it is not recommended to clean a bike with a power washer because it is very hard to dry the water and replace the grease.

Cleaning and lubricating a bicycle chain

Cleaning and lubricating your chain is one of the simplest and most important things to do to keep your bike in good working order. It is also an activity that draws intense debate with many people insisting that their way is the "Right" way to do it. The short story is, the cleaner and better lubricated your chain is the longer the entire drivetrain (the chain and gears) will last, but no drive-train lasts forever. It is worth spending time taking care of your drivetrain, it's not worth obsessing about. You need: Lubricant, A couple Rags Old toothbrush The choice of lubricant is important. DO NOT use WD40* as it is too thin and will evaporate leaving nothing to lubricate the chain. Use special bike chain lube found at any bike store. Some lubricants are formulated for wet conditions, others for dry. The difference is the viscosity. A dry lube used in wet conditions will require more frequent applications, a wet lube used in dry conditions will gather dirt, and require more frequent cleaning.

Cleaning parts Prior to lubricating, clean the chain as well as possible. Usually a chain cleaning tool, or a toothbrush is sufficient. Remove the chain from the bicycle and soak it in a solvent such as a cycle degreaser. Hang up chain to dry off. Paraffin will also work, but is unpleasant and unhealthy to work with environmentally hazardous, and flammable; as such it is not recommended. Dirt is what causes a chain to wear out, so keeping your chain as clean as possible extends its life, and the life of the entire drivetrain. Apply the lubricant on the chain non-pressurized drip type lubes are recommended as are more accurate, and waste less lube than spray lubricants. Put a rag behind the chain so that the lube does not contaminate the tires or other parts of the bike. Rotate the pedals to move the chain and lubricate the whole length. Wipe the chain with the rag to remove the excessive lubricant, as this just gathers dirt and does not help lubricate the chain.

47

Cranks
Cranks
The term crank set refers to the cranks, or pedal arms, that connect the pedals to the bottom bracket. The term crankset refers somewhat ambiguously to both cranks and possibly the bottom bracket.

Types of Cranks
Cranks come in various forms.

One piece
In one piece cranksets, there is a single piece of metal bent into a Z shape that forms both cranks and the bottom bracket spindle. These types of cranks are usually found on lower end bikes and BMX bikes. The bottom bracket shell on one piece cranks is much larger than other for other bottom brackets.

Cottered Cranks
Cottered cranks are decidedly the older standard, but replacement parts are still available. Cottered cranks are held with a cotter pin to the bottom bracket spindle. Common repairs on cotter cranks involve the replacement or refacing of the cotter pins which often become worn over time, leading to slop in the cranks. For proper alignment the cotter pins on opposite sides of the bicycle must be pointed in opposite directions, otherwise the cranks will not be 180 degrees apart.

Cotterless
Cotterless cranks come in two main types:

Cranks Square Taper Square taper cranks have a square taper in the mounting hole. The crank is held on primarily with friction, and fixed in place with a crank bolt or nut (depending on the type of bottom bracket). Splined Splined cranks use a multi-toothed spline to hold the crank. These come in various standards including ISIS and Shimano Octalink (V1 and V2). ISIS is an open standard that has been adopted by various manufacturers in response to the proprietary Shimano standard.

48

Hollowtech II
Two piece cranks where the drive side has a shaft bolted on which is then pushed through the frame (and bottom bracket)then non drive side attached. Bottom brackets for Hollowtech II are external and require a special tool to remove. Removal of cranks and bottom bracket with Hollowtech II takes around 2 minutes, because of this it does not require much bicycle knowledge. --MtbEllis (talk) 12:56, 1 November 2009 (UTC)

Crank Removal
Cotter pin removal Crank bolt/nut removal Crank puller Hollowtech II removal tool. (details need to be completed)

Removal of Seized Cranks

It is common for cranks to be come seized (by corrosion) to the bottom bracket spindle. The removal of seized cranks is time intensive and can damage the cranks, the bottom bracket bearings and the frame, so caution is advised. Household ammonia can be used to dissolve corrosion between aluminum and steel. (details need to be completed) If bottom bracket is damaged it will need to be "Faced and Chased" at your local bike shop. --MtbEllis (talk) 13:00, 1 November 2009 (UTC)

Crank Installation
While somewhat debatable, grease is generally recommended when installing cranks. The removal of seized cranks is time intensive and can damage the cranks, the bottom bracket bearings and the frame. (details need to be completed)

Derailleurs

49

Derailleurs
Overview
Bicycle derailleurs [1] are used to change gear. They work by shifting the chain. On some bikes there is a derailleur on the front chain-rings and one on the rear-sprockets, but most bikes just have a gear-shifter on the rear wheel. Whether the derailleur is on the front or the back it works by deflecting the chain onto an adjacent chain-ring or sprocket. Rear derailleurs are easier to shift because they are installed on the return path of the chain, where there is the minimum of tension. The front derailleur, on the other hand is most usually installed on top where the chain carries all of the rider's effort. Adjustment of derailleurs is comparatively simple, though it is most often done by a bike shop. This is mainly because owners are intimidated by the adjustments, and partly because the adjustments need to be done on a storage rack or in a repair stand. For those who can overcome these barriers or improvise with an extra pair of hands, follow the links to the adjustment pages.

A shimano rear Derailleur, cassette and chain

Derailleur Pages
Front-derailleur adjustment Rear-derailleur adjustment

See Also
Cables and Housings

References
[1] http:/ / en. wikipedia. org/ wiki/ Derailleur_gears

Front Derailleur Adjustment

50

Front Derailleur Adjustment

Construction The derailleur consists of a clamp, a pivot, and a cage. A derailleur is usually attached to the bicycle frame's seat tube by a round clamp, or bolted onto a small, slotted metal piece which has been welded onto the seat tube. The derailleur has two metal plates which form a cage around the chain. The derailleur's clamp and cage are connected to each other by a pivot. Function The front derailleur's function is to move the chain from one chain ring to another. The rider uses a lever connected to the pivot by a cable to move the cage inwards or outwards. When the cage moves inward, toward the bicycle frame, the outer portion contacts the chain and pushes it inward, off of the current chain ring and onto the next chain ring closer to the bicycles frame. When the cage moves outward, away from the frame, the inner portion contacts the chain and pushes it outward, off of the current chain ring and onto the next chain ring further away from the bicycle's frame. Adjustments Height-By adjusting the height of the clamp, it is possible to move the derailleur cage closer or further from the top of the chain rings. Angle-By rotating the clamp to the left or right, it is possible to adjust the position of the derailleur cage relative to the chain and the chain rings, either parallel or out of parallel. Travel-The front derailleur has two limit screws which limit how far the cage is able to travel either inward or outward. These function much like a door stop. If the cage is able to move too far inward, it can move the chain completely off the inner chain ring. If the cage is able to move too far outward, it can move the chain completely off the outer chain ring where it can get jammed between the ring and the inside of the crank arm. The screw which limits the inward travel is often labeled as "low" or "L". Turning this screw counterclockwise, or unscrewing it results in the cage moving inward as far as possible. Turning the screw clockwise results in moving the cage further away from the bicycle frame. The screw which limits how far the derailleur can move outward is often marked as "High" or "H". Since the outer chain ring is larger and therefore harder to pedal, associating "High" or "H" with "Hard" can make it easier to remember which is which. With the "High" adjusting screw turned completely counterclockwise, the derailleur cage will be able to travel to its outermost position, as far from the bicycle's frame as possible. Turning this screw clockwise will decrease this possible amount of travel. Cable tension-With no cable attached, or with a cable attached in a slackened state, the derailleur is in its resting position, as far inwards toward the bicycle frame possible, depending on how the "Low" limit screw has been positioned. There is usually an adjusting knob attached to the front derailleur's handlebar-mounted shifting lever. Rotating this knob clockwise, or screwing it in, will lessen the cable tension. Rotating the knob counterclockwise, or unscrewing it, will increase the cable tension. Lessening cable tension results in the derailleur cage moving inward. Increasing cable tension results in the derailleur cage moving outward. Initial Setup Braze-on mounted front derailleur-For frames with a welded on front derailleur "braze-on" mount, place the derailleur's convex mounting face so it mates with the rearward facing, concave mounting face of the braze-on. Insert the mounting bolt through the braze-on from front to rear, screwing it into the derailleur's mounting bolt hole. Take one end of the bicycle chain and route it over the top of the smallest front chain ring, inserting it through the derailleur cage, passing it on to the rear of the bicycle, wrapping around any of the rear wheel's gear cogs, down through the rear derailleur pulleys, and then back forward toward the underside of the front chain rings. over the cogs of the rear wheel and routed through the rear derailleur's pulley wheels and back toward the underside of the front chain rings. Final chain length should already be determined. If not, see "chain length" section of maintenance page.

Rear Derailleur Adjustment

51

Rear Derailleur Adjustment

Figure1: A bicycle gear train. The rear derailleur is shown on the left, below the sprocket cluster. The front derailleur is shown above the two-ringed chainring assembly on the right.

Figure 2..: Shimano Ultegra rear derailleur The rear-derailleur is the gear-changing assembly on the rear wheel of some bicycles; it moves the bicycle chain from one sprocket to another. It is cable-operated using a shift control on the handlebar or the front of the frame near the handlebar. The derailleur allows the rider to choose the ease of pedalling, for example, for hill climbing or a downhill run. For those who take things a bit more seriously, gearing allows the rider to maintain the most economical pedalling rate regardless of minor changes in terrain. Some bicycles have both front and rear derailleurs. This page concentrates on the rear-derailleur . Front gear changers are discussed in Front Derailleur Adjustment. Because the 'de-railing' of the chain involves deflecting it, the chain has to be moving at the time. That is to say, a derailleur can work only while the rider is pedalling.

To better understand the material that follows, consider the following meanings:

Rear Derailleur Adjustment

52

Figure 3: Typical SRAM derailleur adjustment points. A. The 'B' adjustment. B and C. The limit adjustments; usually marked as 'H' and 'L' D. The cable clamp., E. The barrel adjuster for cable tension. The exact details for a specific derailleur can be found in documentation at SRAM docs [1] (See Fig.4. for Shimano typicals.)

The cogs on the rear wheel of a bike are often referred to as sprockets, and the ones in the pedal area are called chain-rings. When there is more than one cog they are arranged in a stack called a cluster or a cogset or a block; these are supplied in one of two forms: cassettes, that slide onto a freehub, and freewheels that are screwed onto threaded hubs. The highest sprocket in a cluster is the small one closest to the outside of the bike, and the lowest sprocket is the largest one nearest to the inside of the bike. These points have meaning for adjustments. Here, highest means the sprocket that gives the highest gearing to the bicycle, while lowest gives the easiest pedaling. The top pulley of a rear-derailleur is called the guide-pulley. The lower pulley is called the take-up pulley or tension pulley. The dropout is the part of the bike frame that the wheel fits into. It is slotted. The hanger is the thin mounting plate for the derailleur. In steel bikes it is often just a part of the frame, but aluminum frames are usually protected against impact damage with a separate bendable hanger. The derailleur gears are shifted by changing the length of a shift cable using the handlebar gear shifter. The steel cable is contained in a reinforced conduit called a housing. The ends of cable housings are terminated in small parts called ferrules, and these are sometimes fitted into parts of the frame called cable-stops.

The overall gearing of a bike is set by both the choice of front chain-ring and the rear sprocket. Some bikes have only a single chain-ring on the pedal assembly so all of their gear shifting is done on the rear wheel. This page concentrates on that situation. Front derailleur adjustment is discussed here. The manufacturer's documentation for a derailleur is by far the best source of information, but when it cannot be found either in the bike handbook or on the internet, refer to the adjacent figures 3 and 4 for typical adjustment points, and the procedures that follow.

Rear Derailleur Adjustment

53

Preliminaries
Make sure before carrying out adjustments that the derailleur hanger is not bent and that the derailleur's cage is not twisted. Each of these cases can be checked by viewing the bike from the rear where both of the derailleur's pulleys and each selected cog should be in vertical alignment. In particular the hanger should not appear to be bent inwards toward the wheel. Both shifting and the smooth running of the chain depend on this alignment, and even a small deviation can upset the normal feeling of the bike. Repairing the hanger: On steel bicycles the only option is to straighten the hanger section of the frame. Aluminum hangers can be straightened if they are not too severely damaged though it is important to keep in mind that aluminum fatigues much more easily than A typical rear derailleur hanger. Notice that although the metal is steel. Most bicycle shops will have the proper tool for quite thick, it is made of a fairly soft alloy and bends quite easily. this (the Derailleur Alignment Gauge from Park is recommended) [2], though it is unlikely that the home mechanic will need one often enough to own his own. The notion of hanger straightness in this process is perhaps a misnomer, in that some slight bending of the hanger may be necessary to satisfy the overall alignment. Replacing the hanger: On aluminium bicycles the hanger is a sacrificial piece, designed to bend on impact instead of the expensive derailleur, or even worse, the frame. Unfortunately bicycle frame manufacturers have made numerous designs of hangers over the years, and no bike shop has more than a small fraction of them in stock. However, if the part is available, (numerous internet suppliers offer stocks of hangers), the replacement is easily done at a bike shop, or even at home, and is no more difficult than the installing of the derailleur itself. It may be helpful to note that the adjustment procedures on this page are devised for the most common shift-cable behavior. That is to say, the assumption is that shortening the cable results in moving the rear-derailleur inward, toward the largest sprocket. Other arrangements exist, and for these you should refer to the manufacturer's instructions. Problems following a new shifter installation, might be the result of a faulty choice of shifter. This point should be understood before going any further. A derailleur has an actuation ratio of its own; a given change in cable length gives rise to a given distance traversed across the sprockets, and the reciprocal of this ratio is called the shift ratio. Similarly, shifters are made for different families of derailleur. The Shimano rear-derailleurs belong entirely to the 2:1 family whereas many SRAM derailleurs belong to the 1:1 set. Note that these family-ratios are not the actual shift ratios, but are just labels, and serve mainly to distinguish SRAM's native set of shifters and derailleurs (1:1) from their Shimano-compatible set of shifters (2:1). The SRAM shifters that are Shimano-compatible; for example, the series Attack, Centera, MRX, MRX Pro, Rocket, and TRX, are openly advertised for use with Shimano's 1.7 shift-ratio derailleurs; (the 2:1 family). Obviously, if an MRX (2:1) version of a GripShift were installed instead of the 1:1 version, the shifting would not work. In actuality, Shimano derailleurs have 1.7 shift ratios while SRAMs' native units have 1.1 ratios. See CTC on Rear Shifting [3] for a detailed discussion, and the local Wikibooks page Gear-changing Dimensions for other tabulated shifting dimensions. Chain length adjustment: Some shifting problems are not so much a derailleur problem as one of a chain that is too long. Most manufacturers of derailleurs assume that the chain's length is set to optimum before making any other adjustments: The procedure is repeated here: Starting with a broken chain, and ignoring the derailleur completely,

Rear Derailleur Adjustment wind the chain tightly around the largest front chainring and the largest rear sprocket. While holding the two ends tightly so that they overlap, note the length required to make them just meet. To this length add two half-inch links. Feed the chain through the derailleur and connect it for the ideal fit. Obviously, the length of any master link [1] must be taken into account in the total, and when the bike has a rear suspension, it must first be adjusted to its furthest backward reach. It should be noted that a very small number of derailleurs need the addition of four half-inch links instead of two, so be sure to check the manufacturer's data sheets for your unit.

54

Adjustment Summary
There are three main adjustments for a typical rear-derailleur: These are;
The limit stops, high and low, are adjusted, to prevent the chain moving beyond the high and low sprockets in the cluster. This can be done either before or after a chain is installed. The 'B' adjustment, the body-angle screw, is made to move the upper pulley and chain to a position close to the underside of the largest sprocket. The barrel-adjuster is set to remove any cable slack, so that the cable-pull set by the shifter is the only factor in the operation.

Set the Chain Limits

As the jockey wheel moves back and forward across the rear cassette to change gears, it could be pushed beyond the intended limits. To avoid this, the limits are set unconditionally, that is to say, independently of anything being done by the cable or the gear-shifter. On every derailleur will be found a pair of screws, closely-spaced and typically marked as 'H' and 'L', for "high" and "low" respectively. These screws are the limit-stop screws. If not found they can be located in the documentation of the derailleur, or on manufacturer's internet site. Figures 3 and 4 show typical layouts for these adjustment screws.

Prior to Chain and Cabling

The limits can be roughly set without a cable or chain installed, and this method is the one to use when a bike is first being assembled. It is done by simply pushing the derailleur by hand to the required position. If this method is appropriate, then roughly set the limits as follows:

Figure 4: Typical Shimano derailleur adjustment points. A. The 'B' adjustment. B and C. the limit adjustments; usually marked as 'H' and 'L' D. The cable clamp., E. The barrel adjuster for cable tension. The exact details for a specific derailleur can be found in online documentation at [4] Shimano docs.

Rear Derailleur Adjustment

55

The high limit screw is adjusted so that the top pulley's center lines up with the outer edge of the smallest sprocket. This is assumed to be the default position for the derailleur when a shifter cable does not impede it. The low limit screw is similarly adjusted, but so that the pulley's center lines up with the center of the largest sprocket in the cluster. If there is a chain installed, the pedals need to be cranked to attain this position, but if there is no chain or shift cable then just push the derailleur into that position and adjust the low limit until you cannot push the top pulley past the big cog's center line.

The above adjustment is best done with the bike in a repair stand, but at a push could be done with the use of an extra pair of hands.

After Chain and Cabling

For each of the two limit adjustments the object is to set the tightest screw setting that can be tolerated without misalignment noises or faulty shifting. At this point the limits are set fairly tightly. Once again, these adjustments need a repair stand, a helping hand, or some other improvisation to work with the rear wheel off the ground. To carry out this adjustment when a chain and shift cable are installed, it is best to do it after basic indexing of the gears; this makes sure that it is possible to shift onto the required cogs without misadventure. First slacken off the low and high limit screws by turning them nearly all the way out of their housings, so that initially they have no limiting action. The adjustment sequence is as follows: Adjust the high limit :
If there is a choice, select the largest front chain-ring. Shift the chain onto the smallest rear sprocket using the shifter on the handlebar. Then, further shift the chain onto the second-smallest sprocket by pulling the cable while cranking the pedals. Release the cable and note whether or not the chain moves cleanly onto the smallest sprocket without misalignment noises. Noises are caused by the chain moving beyond the small cog. If all is well tighten the high limit screw by one-quarter turn, and repeat the shifting exercise. Continue tightening and checking, tightening the screw by one-quarter turn each time, until eventually a point is reached where the adjustment will be too tight, as evidenced by a slight misalignment noise or faulty shifting. When this fault point is reached, unscrew the high limit adjustment by one-quarter turn, to obtain the correct limit setting.

Adjust the low limit :

If there is a choice, select the middle front chain-ring. Shift the chain onto the second-largest rear sprocket using the handlebar shifter. Then, shift the chain onto the largest sprocket by pulling the cable while cranking the pedals. Note whether or not the chain moves cleanly onto the largest sprocket without misalignment noises. Noises are caused by the chain moving beyond the large cog. If all is well tighten the low limit screw by one-quarter turn, and repeat the shifting exercise. Continue tightening and checking, tightening the screw by one-quarter turn each time, until eventually a point is reached where the adjustment will be too tight, as evidenced by a slight misalignment noise or faulty shifting. When this fault point is reached, unscrew the low limit adjustment by one-quarter turn, to obtain the correct limit setting.

At times these adjustments have a fairly wide adjustment tolerance, and it is difficult to identify an exact point to call the right adjustment. At these times as long as the shifting for the top and bottom sprockets is clean and noise-free the greater part of the matter will have been solved. At this point the intermediate gears will make a noise. This matter is corrected in the section on indexing.

Rear Derailleur Adjustment

56

Set the Body-angle

The 'B' screw is otherwise known as the body-angle adjustment. It is used to move the entire derailleur to a position beneath the sprocket-cluster and close to it. The closer the pulley is to the sprockets the more teeth are engaged with the chain. This reduces wear and tear on both the sprockets and the chain, and in addition tends to make gear shifting more decisive. Typical rear-derailleur specifications, for example, for the SRAM SX-4 and its relatives, specify 6mm as the gap to aim for, though these shifters still work well when the setting is a bit wider. This is the 'B' adjustment procedure:
Make sure that the low and high limits are already set. Move the rear shifter onto the largest sprocket; that is, the smallest shifter number. Locate the 'B' adjustment screw using the bicycle's handbook. If the handbook is not available then note that the body-angle screw is one of only three adjustment screws found on a rear-derailleur. The other two are the limit screws mentioned previously. The screw is always located in contact with the lip of the hanger. See Figures 3 and 4. Observe the gap between the derailleur guide pulley and the bottom of the largest sprocket. Adjust the gap in accordance with the manufacturer's specifications for the derailleur. If the documentation is unavailable then it may be possible to access it on the internet. Failing this, set the gap to about 6mm, or as close as is reasonable without obstruction. Move the shifter through all of the gears to make sure that the sprockets are clear of the guide-pulley in every position. The tracking across the cogs in this way will be reasonable provided that the adjacent cog-size steps do not exceed those in the manufacturer's data sheet.

The B-tension bolt is used to adjust the derailleur to clear the cogs as it transits them during gear shifts. Usually, if the the largest cog is clear of the cage, the others will be too. For this reason the adjustment is made in this cage position. The angle of the lip on the derailleur's hanger, (the angle between the vertical and the face of the lip), sets the maximum height that can be achieved with the 'B' adjustment screw; in this case when the adjustment screw is fully withdrawn, then the cage is as high as it can go. If it happens that the cage cannot be set high enough to meet that specification, it could be a sign that the wrong hanger has been chosen. Although the cage height affects the ease of shifting, sometimes there is one gear that is harder to shift into than others. It has been pointed out by some riders that a more conscious effort at removing the tension in the chain before moving forward in the troubled gear can be useful, though a bent hanger should also be suspected. At other times however, inconsistent shifting is a sign of a non-optimal chain length or a frayed housing end. These points should be checked before suspecting the cog itself. When the body-angle adjustment is complete, move on to the indexing adjustment.

Set the Cable Tension

Barrel-adjusters
The barrel-adjuster is usually found on the right handlebar or on the derailleur itself, at the point where the shift cable enters the derailleur. See Figure 2 for an example of the latter. In all cases it does not matter where the adjustment-barrel is located, screwing it in (clockwise) slackens the cable and unscrewing it tightens the cable. The gear-shifter moves in discrete steps, and each step is translated by the derailleur into the exact distance (the inter-cog spacing or pitch) across the sprockets of the cluster. Thus, moving the shifter one step, regardless of the starting point, will lengthen or shorten the cable by an exact amount. The only bug in this system is the residual slackness or over-tightness in the cable itself. To see why the barrel-adjuster is needed, consider these two examples.

Rear Derailleur Adjustment If the cable has too much residual slackness when the handlebar shifter is operated, say from the smallest sprocket to the next-smallest, then a part of the resultant cable shortening will be used in first taking up the cable slack, then in moving the derailleur. As a result, the shortening is not all available to move the derailleur, and it is unlikely to move far enough to move the chain properly and make a successful gear change. Similarly, when the cable is too tight, shifting between say, the largest sprocket and the second largest will result in the shifter lengthening the cable by one unit. Because of the residual over-tension in the cable that tends to move the derailleur inward, not all of the intended lengthening will be available to the derailleur. It will not quite reach far enough. In both of the examples above the chain will likely make a noise as it shifts, but if the tension in the cable is not excessive, the chain might still pull itself onto the right sprocket; if the tension in the cable is too high then the chain might rattle somewhere in between the sprockets. The entire function of the handlebar barrel-adjuster is to remove any residual slackness or over-tension in the cable so that the exact lengthening and shortening (indexed shifting) of the cable by the handlebar shifter has no error.

57

The Shift Cable

When the barrel-adjuster cannot align the gears within its adjustment range, then the excessive slackness in the cable needs taken up. Because the barrel-adjuster has quite a wide range, this stage is rarely needed. A commonly observed test as to whether or not a cable needs tightening depends on whether the barrel-adjuster can be set to allow changes up and down between the smallest and the next smallest sprockets. This shift is the one most likely to fail if the cable is too slack so it provides a good rule of thumb. With the shifter and chain on the smallest sprocket, the process is as follows:
Screw in the barrel-adjuster(s) fully. Then, unscrew the adjuster by about one full turn. Undo the pinch bolt on the derailleur to release the cable. It usually needs just a hex wrench. Note where on the pinch bolt the cable was clamped since it is important to reproduce the exact route when it is replaced. Pull the cable tight and refasten the pinch bolt. The tightness need not be excessive; just remove all of the slack. Adjust the barrel-adjuster for correct indexing as in the above section.

At times shifting can also be affected by frayed housing-ends or a poor choice of parts. The cable ferrule on the end of a housing must run freely in the barrel adjuster's end, but some ferrules, especially on universal cables have been noted to be too big and because they jam, cause the housing to twist when the barrel is adjusted. At other times exposed housing wires cause inconsistent behavior in shifting. The changing of a shift cable is explained in Cables and Housings and at http:/ / www. sheldonbrown. com/ derailer-adjustment. html Sheldon Brown's Derailleur website].

Rear Derailleur Adjustment

58

Adjust the Barrel

Provided that both of the limits and the 'b'-screw adjustment are adequate, the cable tension can be adjusted with the barrel-adjuster. Because cables stretch with use, this adjustment might be needed from time to time, other than during a full service. The process is as follows:
Place the chain onto the smallest rear-sprocket, the one that has the slackest cable, and if there is a choice, the largest front chain-ring. (Shimano Rapid Rise derailleurs work with the cable at its slackest for the largest sprocket, so for these untis use the largest and next largest for what follows.) While pedalling, use the gear shifter to change gear to the second-smallest sprocket. If the chain falls short and does not reach the sprocket then the cable has too much slack; unscrew the barrel-adjuster slightly. If the chain moves too far or changes gear by two positions then the cable is too tight; screw in the barrel-adjuster slightly. Repeat this shifting and adjusting until the derailleur moves smoothly backward and forward. Shift the gears over the whole range and note whether or not shifting is adequate. The noise from chain-rattle should be reduced to a minimum. Fine-adjust the barrel if necessary to obtain smooth shifting in both directions.

A troubleshooting table has been included in the next section to consolidate the points made elsewhere in the text, and it contains the main rear-derailleur faults. Such a table is necessarily brief, and is intended to be used together with the descriptive materials in the main text, and not as an alternative to it.

Troubleshooting
The first thing to check is that all parts are compatible, especially if you are not familiar with the history of the bicycle. Indexing shifters require that the number of gears on the shifter is the same as the number of gears on the wheel. Different brands of shifters may need to be used with matching shifters: i.e., Campagnolo must go with Campagnolo. Others makers such as SRAM and Suntour have made shifters that only work with their own rear derailleurs, but also have made other shifters that work with Shimano etc. Shimano shifters are designed to work only with their own products. Rear derailleurs have a specified maximum capacity and maximum range of teeth, and if these are exceeded, the derailleur may work poorly or not at all. The capacity describes the extent to which the unit can take-up slack when gears are changed. Also, if the hanger is not the one intended for that unit, then the derailleur may be positioned wrongly for a correct body-angle adjustment. The most usual rear derailleur adjustment faults are listed in the table below with suggestions as to their cause and correction, though users are advised to acquaint themselves with their manufacturers' websites for the official line, and with cycling forums for problems that makers tend not to discuss.

Rear Derailleur Troubleshooting Guide

Fault Condition Chain jumps outward from small sprocket Possible Cause High gear limit not adjusted Corrective Action Tighten high limit screw to bring the top pulley slightly inward Slacken high limit screw to bring the top pulley slightly outward a. Tighten low limit screw to bring the top pulley slightly outward b. Straighten or replace items Shifting is slow Top pulley is too far from the sprockets Withdraw the 'B'-screw to narrow the gap

Chain will not move to small sprocket

High gear limit not adjusted

Chain jumps inward past the largest sprocket toward the spokes

a. Low gear limit not adjusted b. Derailleur or hanger are bent

Rear Derailleur Adjustment

59
Top pulley is too close to the sprockets a. Cable is too tight b. Cable is binding Tighten the 'B'-screw to widen the gap

Shifting sounds rough

Slow shifting onto smallest sprocket

a. Turn barrel adjuster clockwise b. Lubricate and check cable for damage Turn barrel adjuster anticlockwise Turn barrel adjuster anticlockwise

Slow shifting onto largest sprocket Chain jumps two gears from smallest sprocket

Cable is too slack Cable is too slack

Chain Slipping
There are many possible causes of chain-slipping (at other than a shift), and strictly speaking most are to do with the drive-train in general, rather that just the rear-derailleur. Various factors combine at any one time towards slipping, and correcting any one of them might reduce the collateral effect enough to cure the problem. This collateral effect also serves to confuse as to the most likely causes. The common causes are listed here in order of the most practical measures to attempt: Chain length: If the chain length is not optimum then other factors might have more effect. Adjust the chain length using Big-to-Big length method outlined in the preliminaries section above. 'B' Height adjustment: Ajust the rear derailleur's cage height in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. If the height setting cannot be met, it could be a sign that the wrong hanger was used. The angle of the hanger-lip affects this range. Master Link: Make sure that any master link in the chain is right for the task, and use the one recommended by the manufacturer. Chain width: Make sure that the correct chain width is used, and that there are no protruding pins. Again, use the chain recommended by the manufacturer. Damaged shift cable housing: If the end of a cable housing is badly frayed, with its support wires showing, then the shift cable tension might change intermittently. Stiff chain links: Observe the chain at the derailleur for any jumping links and manipulate them by hand until they are free. Worn chain: Replace a badly worn chain. Worn sprockets: Inspect the wear on sprockets especially if the problem happens only in the most used position.

See Also
Park Tool's derailleur page [8] : Reliable bike repair and maintenance site Sheldon Brown's derailer page [5]: A good quality bike maintenance site. Shimano Technical Documents [4]: The page for parts and installation manuals for Shimano derailleurs SRAM Technical Documents [1]: The page for parts and installation manuals for SRAM derailleurs CTC Discussion on How To Mismatch Drive Parts [3]: A well researched and informative page on how to make alternative drive parts fit, from the UK's national cycling organization. Cables and Housings: A Wikibooks bicycles page.

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References
[1] [2] [3] [4] [5] http:/ / www. sram. com/ en/ service/ sram/ tech_manuals. php http:/ / www. parktool. com/ products/ detail. asp?cat=48& item=DAG-2 http:/ / www. ctc. org. uk/ DesktopDefault. aspx?TabID=3946 http:/ / techdocs. shimano. com/ techdocs/ index. jsp http:/ / www. sheldonbrown. com/ derailer-adjustment. html

Frames
The frame is the solid part of the bicycle that interconnects the various components. Frames come in various materials, including steel, aluminum, titanium, and carbon fiber. The most popular types of frame are the double diamond and step through frames. Frames can become cracked or bent and require repair or replacement. Steel frames can be readily straightened, other materials can't generally be straightened. Tools exist for the straightening of frames, or many can be improvised. Steel frames can be welded, other materials can't generally be welded. The paint on a frame can become chipped, etc. and need to be repaired. Sometimes components can become seized in the frame and require removal.

Freewheels and Cassettes

The freewheel is the ratchet device on the rear wheel that makes it possible to roll without pedaling, for example, when free-wheeling down a hill. It operates whenever the wheels are going faster than the drive-force, in this case the pedals and chain. The term is also used to describe a bicycle component that combines both a ratchet and a cog-set in one single screw-on assembly, and this is the most commonly used meaning. The alternative way of installing a cog-set is to use a cassette, a stack of cogs that slides onto a splined hub. Whether a freewheel or a cassette is used on the A typical nine-speed rear wheel. The large bulge at one end of the hub identifies it as a freehub. This, and the size of the cluster means that the cogs are supplied as a cassette. rear hub of the bike, there is always a ratchet; in the case of a freewheel assembly the ratchet is unscrewed with the cogs, whereas a cassette is merely a stack of cogs, and the ratchet is within the freehub of the wheel. Cog

Freewheels and Cassettes

61 pitch (here is means inter- cog center-to-center spacing) is the main consideration for shifting and apart from the restricted choice of freewheels, it is unimportant to the derailleur whether a freewheel or a cassette is installed, provided that the spacing between the cogs is right. Bikes without gear-changing exist, so-called fixed-gear bikes or fixies. They have one chain-ring and one rear cog. Although such bikes are not technically prevented from having a ratchet device, they usually have none, so that the rider's legs will be forced to rotate whenever the bike is moving. Some new riders of such bikes can find the experience disturbing. The threaded hub of the freewheel installation is clearly different from the splined freehub of the cassette installation and the cog-set of one type cannot be installed onto the other. When an upgrade from freewheels to cassettes is to be made, it is most convenient to do so by changing the rear wheel for one with a freehub and cassette already installed. Examples of a freehub and of a threaded hub can be seen clearly in the adjacent photographs.

A cassette cog-set and its splined (grooved) freehub. The splines allow alignment of the cogs and prevent their rotation in use. The ratchet is in the wheel's hub.

Both freewheels and cassettes exist in a variety of cog combinations, and because chains are all half-inch spaced, cogs can A freewheel cog-set and its threaded hub. The freewheel itself contains both ratchet be defined entirely by their numbers of and cogs. Individual cogs are threaded onto the freewheel itself and the entire teeth. For example, an 11T cog has eleven freewheel assembly is threaded onto the hub. teeth, and a cog-set with a range of 11T-30T might have say, seven cogs, the smallest having eleven teeth and the largest thirty. Because cog-sets have been in use for a long time, the most useful sets have been identified by code letters, for example, the above set is designated 'am'. For those who need more than seven rear cogs, a bike with a cassette becomes the choice. This is because bikes are rarely made with freewheels of more than seven cogs. Larger numbers of gears can be obtained even with a seven speed freewheel or cassette by simply having more front chainrings. For example, the combination of three front chainrings and seven rear sprockets provides 21 gear combinations (3 X 7), and enjoys the wider working tolerances of seven speed shifting at the rear. This page explains how to remove and fit cassettes and freewheels and provides links for further information on that subject. An introduction to the principles of indexed shifting is given, and notes on the complexity of gear-shifting standards is provided with the help of tables.

Freewheels and Cassettes

62

Cog-set Standards.
Complexity
The hub of a rear wheel has an extension on it, and this is threaded or splined to fit either a freewheel or a cassette respectively. Extensions differ in length, according to the number of cogs to be installed, but to maintain reasonable chain alignment and reduce the stresses on the hub, there is a limit to the extension that can be considered. So, when a number of cogs greater than say, seven, is crammed into a set, the teeth and spacers need to be made thinner. In this way the space or pitch between the cogs can be reduced. (See the table in the drop box below for a summary on cog-pitch.) A narrower chain is also needed for a narrower cog-pitch. Although cassette cogs and most freewheel cogs can be replaced individually, doing so favors cassettes. Freewheel cogs need two chain-whips to remove them from the cluster after the freewheel itself if free of its hub, one to unscrew the cog and another to prevent the freewheel from rotating; anyway, individual replacement cogs for freewheels are now hard to find. Freewheels rarely exist beyond 7-speeds, while cassettes exist in up to 11-speeds. Cassette cogs are easier to remove, are abundant in supply, and offer the greatest scope for modification. Cog pitch (here means inter-cog spacing), cog thickness, and spacer thickness differ greatly for the various bike types, (see Sheldon Brown's Cribsheet on Spacing [1] for detailed lists), not only for different sizes of cog-sets, but between different manufacturers for the same size of cog-set. As a result, the derailleurs and shifters used differ greatly as well. When the different shift ratios of derailleurs , cable-pull-lengths of shifters, and the pitch (inter-cog spacing) of cog-sets are considered together, it becomes clear that arbitrarily selected drive components will hardly ever work well together. Examples of the various manufacturers' cog-pitches and the expected results of mixing drive gear can be found in the drop-box below. For the full description upon which these notes were based, see CTC on Rear Shifting [3]. In the way of relief, some notes on the more common ground are are given in the next section.

Pitch for Rear Cog-sets and Predicted Shifts for Mixed Drive-gear
The tables give an introduction to the complexity of drive gear. Detailed lists for particular cog-sets are best found from manufacturers, or possibly on the late Sheldon Brown's page, Cribsheet on Spacings [1]. Cassette Sprocket Pitch and Other Data by Size and Manufacturer Credit due to CTC, the UK's national cyclists' organisation.
[3]

Note: The term pitch in these tables means inter-cog center-to-center spacing. Cassette Sprocket Pitch Code Sprocket Thickness Spacer Thickness Stack Width mm. All 5 and 6-speed All standard 7-speed Shimano Hyperglide 7-speed Campagnolo 8-speed Shimano 8-speed SRAM 8-speed Campagnolo 9-speed Shimano 9-speed SRAM 9-speed 5 - 5.50 5.00 5.00 5.00 4.80 4.80 4.55 4.35 4.35 S5/6 S7 S7 C8 S8 S8 C9 S9 S9 1.85. 1.9 1.8 1.8 1.75 1.78 1.8 3.15 3.1 3.00 3.00 2.8 2.56 2.54 mm. mm. mm. 23.2 - 29.5 31.5 - 32.4 31.9 36.9 35.4 35.4 38.2 36.5 36.5

Freewheels and Cassettes

63 4.15 3.95 3.95 3.85 C10 S10 S10 C11 1.7 1.6 1.6 1.6 2.42 2.35 2.35 2.25 38.8 37.2 37.2 40.1*

Campagnolo 10-speed Shimano 10-speed SRAM 10-speed Campagnolo 11-speed

*Large stack is accommodated by an unique small-cog overhang that requires extra attention in any adaptation. Predicted cog-shifts for variously mixed bicycle drive-gear Credit due to CTC, the UK's national cyclists' organisation.
[3]

Note: The term pitch in these tables means inter-cog center-to-center spacing. Rear Mechanism Shimano Derailleur Actuation Ratios Shifter 1.7 old Dura-ace 1.9 Hubbub 1.6 New Old SRAM (1:1) Campagnolo Campagnolo 1.5 1.4 1.1

Cable Pull Pitch Code Pitch Code Pitch Code Pitch Code Pitch Code Pitch Code (mm) (mm) 5.5 5.0 4.8 4.35 3.95 6.03 5.49 S5/6 5.26 4.79 4.48 7.76 7.45 6.75 5.0 4.8 4.35 S7 S8 S9 S8 S9 S5/6 S7 S8 S9 S10 (mm) 6.07 5.52 5.30 4.80 4.36 6.66 6.06 5.80 5.29 4.94 8.56 8.22 7.45 5.52 5.30 4.80 S8 S5/6 S5/6 S7/8 S8 S9 S5/6 (mm) (mm) S8 S9 C10 (mm) 4.56 4.14 3.98 3.60 3.27 C9 C10 S10 (mm) 3.54 3.22 3.09 2.80 2.55 S10

Shimano 6 Shimano 7 Shimano 8 Shimano 9 Shimano 10 Campagnolo 8 Campagnolo old 9 Campagnolo new 9 Campagnolo 10 Campagnolo 11 SRAM (1:1) 7 SRAM (1:1) 8 SRAM (1:1) 9 SRAM (2:1) 7 SRAM (2:1) 8 SRAM (2:1) 9 COLOR CODE

3.2 2.9 2.8 2.5 2.3 3.5 3.2 3.0 2.8 2.6 4.5 4.3 4.0 2.9 2.8 2.5

4.98 S7/C8 4.76 4.53 4.35 3.94 3.58 5.47 4.98 4.76 4.34 4.05 7.03 6.75 6.12 4.53 4.35 3.94 C9 S9 S10 6.45 5.84 4.33 4.16 3.77 S5/6 S7 S8 S9 S10 C9 S9 S10 4.33 4.16 3.77 3.42 5.22 4.75 4.55 4.15 3.85

5.00 S7/C8 3.89 S8 C9 C10 C11 4.55 4.36 3.97 3.70 6.43 6.17 5.59 S9 C10 4.14 3.98 3.60 C10 S10 C9 S9 S10 3.54 3.39 3.09 2.83 5.00 4.80 4.35 3.22 3.09 2.80

S7 S8 S9

Designed to Match

These Match Well

Needs Shortened Cassette

The above tables give the means to predict whether or not rear-gear shifting will work with various combinations of shifters, derailleurs, and cogs. Because of the size limitations and difficulty in modifying freewheels, these tables refer in the main to CASSETTES. The emphasis here is on closeness of pitch, and other practical factors might still need to be considered. The pitch of common cog-sets is given in one table and the derailleur shift data is given in another. The shift data is divided into four main categories: GREEN Colors

Freewheels and Cassettes These show the resultant derailleur shift in millimeters when the shifter, derailleur, and cogs of one manufacturer are used together. This is the ideal situation. For example, the Shimano 10-speed shifter with a cable pull of 2.3mm is applied to a Shimano derailleur with an actuation ratio of 1.7, resulting in a shift (2.3mm x 1.7) of 3.91mm. Allowing for the precision of the available data this fits the Shimano 10-speed cog-set pitch of 3.95mm well, and the shifting is considered to be ideal. YELLOW Colors These give the resultant derailleur shift in millimeters when other than the ideal combination is used, and are characterized by having an intact set of cogs, but unused positions on the shifter when the modification is complete.(But see Campagnolo 'old and new'). The pitch that is produced works well enough with the alternative cog-set. For example, the Campagnolo 10-speed shifter with a cable pull of 2.8mm is applied to a Shimano derailleur with an actuation ratio of 1.7, resulting in a shift (2.8mm x 1.7) of 4.76mm. Allowing for the precision of the available data this fits the Shimano 8-speed cog-set pitch of 4.80mm well. That is to say, the Campagnolo 10-speed shifter could be used with the Shimano derailleur provided that there was an 8-speed Shimano cog-set installed. The other two positions on the shifter would remain unused, excluded by adjusting the limit stops of the derailleur. RED Colors These give the resultant derailleur shift in millimeters when other than the ideal combination is used, and although the shifter range will be correct, they need some cogs to be left off the cassette assembly. The pitch that is produced works well enough with the specified cog-set. For example, the Campagnolo 8-speed shifter with a cable pull of 3.5mm is applied to a SRAM (1.0) derailleur with an actuation ratio of 1.1, resulting in a shift (3.5mm x 1.1) of 3.85mm. Allowing for the precision of the available data this fits the Shimano S10 cog-set pitch of 3.95mm well. That is to say, the cog-set can be assembled using eight of the Shimano 10-speed cogs and seven of its spacers. OTHER Shift Data Data other than those with green, yellow, or red coloring would not index correctly. That said, there are some other Shimano combinations that can be applied to a Shimano 7-speed freehub. The set can be extended to eight cogs if S9 cogs form the cassette, and a 9-speed shifter and chain are used. Similar results can be obtained for nine cogs on a 7-speed freehub if S10 is used for the assembly, and a 10-speed shifter and chain are used. In each of these two cases the unused positions on the shifters are blocked by the adjustment of the derailleurs' limit stops. 7 August 2011
To avoid most compatibility problems, stick to one manufacturer's components for the cog-set, derailleur, shifter, and chain. Even then, since some manufacturers make items for more than one shift ratio, it is wise to make sure that the derailleur and shifter combine to produce the cog-pitch that is intended. The tables in the above drop-box explain the indexing principles, and the calculation of derailleur capacity based on the cog-set is given elsewhere on this page.

64

General Rule

Freewheels and Cassettes

65

Consistencies
Although complexity is the rule as opposed to the exception, there are some consistencies in manufactured goods. Examples include manufacturers who produce components that suit the drive-trains of others, a tendency to standardize spline patterns for cassettes on the most popular brand name, and the standardized pitch (inter-cog spacing) for 7-speed cog-sets. Some SRAM shifters, for example, A close-up of cogs clearly showing their ramps GripShift types marked as MRX, are suitable for Shimano systems, since these shifters suit the so-called 2 : 1 family of Shimano derailleurs; in fact their shift ratios are not exactly 2 but 1.7. (Shift ratio is the reciprocal of actuation ratio which is itself the ratio of input change to output change, so here, one length of cable pull causes a transverse movement that exceeds it by 1.7 times). Other shifters by the same SRAM manufacturer, are suited to the 1:1 family of derailleurs; (with exact 1.1 shift ratios), and so these do not match the Shimano derailleurs. The subject of compatibility in drive-train gear has received much attention over the years and despite the complexities involved, it has been found that some mixed systems can work well enough provided that there is careful selection. (See the examples in the drop-box of the above section). Cassette spline patterns for Shimano freehubs fit a number of other makes of cassette, and within its own products is the same for virtually every type of cassette. With minor exceptions, the SRAM manufacturer has used the same sprocket pitch (inter-sprocket spacing) and spline pattern as Shimano, so that their products are used interchangably, (with the possible exception of cog ramping functions). The tool used to remove Shimano cassette locking-rings will unlock them for all of their modern cassettes, and in addition, the cassette locking-rings of SRAM, SunRace, SunTour, Chris King and various others. A similar situation exists for freewheel removals, with the Shimano freewheel tool unlocking all of its own and Sachs, Aris, and Sun Race freewheels besides. As far as is known, the Campagnolo cassette removal tool is intended only for its own locking rings, though some report that a Shimano tool is a (risky?) 'near fit'. The Shimano standards for spline-fittings come closest to an informal industry standard. Seven-speed sprocket pitch is almost always 5mm , so shifter/derailleur combinations that are designed for seven-speed use can be made to work on all seven-speed sprocket sets, (subject to any frame fitting constraints). Consideration of the mixed shifts and pitches given elsewhere on this page will emphasize how unusual this fortunate situation is. The main consideration is that the shifter's cable-pull suits the derailleur's shift ratio so that between them they make the necessary 5mm gear shifts. How the necessary shift is accomplished is of no concern. For example, a Shimano 7-speed shifter pulls the cable by 2.9 mm while the derailleur has a shift ratio of 1.7. The resulting product, (2.9 mm x 1.7 = 4.93 mm), is about 5mm so the combination works well. Another shifter and derailleur combination, say SRAM, also produces the necessary 5mm derailleur shift using 4.5 mm of cable pull and a derailleur shift ratio of 1.1. (4.5mm x 1.1 = 4.95mm = approx 5mm). There is little cross-manufacturer consistency for the pitch of the larger sprocket-sets, so the mixing of components for these larger cog-sets needs more care. See CTC on Rear Shifting [3] for more on mixing components of the drive system. Freewheel threads on modern bikes are the same. Regardless of where in the world the bike is made, the standard (ISO) for freewheel mounting threads is 1.375 inches in diameter and 24 threads per inch. This means that any modern freewheel is likely to fit a standard threaded hub. This is not necessarily the case for older bikes, and the

Freewheels and Cassettes details for these can be found at Sheldon Brown's Freewheels [2]. There are a number of other ISO standards in use for bikes; see Sheldon Brown's ISO Standards for Bikes [3].

66

Removal and Replacement

The tools needed to remove and replace cassettes differ according to the manufacturer. The most commonly used tools include a locking ring remover (see the image), shaped for the lock ring in use, and a chain-whip (see the image), a tool that engages with the cogs to prevent turning while the locking ring is being unscrewed. (A chain-whip is needed only for cassette removal). Because the locking ring remover is merely a tool-end, an extension arm or a long adjustable spanner is needed to provide the necessary torque. An external page that describes the different removal tools of various manufacturers is provided at Park Tool's Cassette and Freewheel Removal [4], along with other practical advice. The tools needed for the removal of freewheels have similar appearance to those for cassettes, though the removal tools might not always be interchangeable. The effort in removing a freewheel is likely to be greater than that for a cassette's locking ring owing to the freewheel's self-tightening during normal cycling. The removal of cassettes and freewheels that have been in use require considerable force, and under force the tool might tend to slip, possibly damaging the tool or its receptacle. For this reason some mechanics modify the simple procedures below by fastening the tool in position with A typical removal tool in place over a cassette's locking ring. The skewer cap is not the reassembled quick-release wheel shown. skewer. When this is done the skewer springs are ommitted and the skewer cap is tightened against the removal tool to take up the slack. The tool must not exceed one turn with the skewer still in place, and must be removed before completing the removal of the cassette or freewhweel.

A cassette's locking ring removal tool. This is typical of the tool used for Shimano freehubs. It has twelve splines.

Freewheels and Cassettes

67

Tools required: Cassette locking ring or freewheel removal tool for the product in use. Adjustable wrench, about one foot long, or specific tools with similar leverage. A chain whip, for cassette removal only. Torque wrench, in a range that includes 30 ft.lbs: Mainly for cassette locking ring replacement, (optional). Bench with a secure vice, (optional).

A chain whip tool shown wrapped onto a cog.

A torque wrench with a detachable socket. Twisting the handle sets a pointer at the required torque. When the torque on the nut is reached, the ratchet slips to avoid over-tightening.

Loose cogs and a locking ring from a Campagnolo cassette.

Technical Note:

Few riders are lucky enough to own expensive torque wrenches for their bikes, so it might be as well to get the assistance of the bike shop for work that requires their use. That said, many are known to approximate the necessary torques by judging the force applied to a wrench lever of known length. That is to say, torque is just the product of force and length. For example, a 30 ft.lb torque is applied when a thirty pound force is applied at right angles to the end of a one foot wrench. The accuracy of this method is as good as the user's ingenuity at judging or measuring the applied force. Formulas for converting to other torque designations: in.lb = ft.lb x 12 in.lb = Nm x 8.851 in.lb = kgf.cm / 1.15

Freewheels and Cassettes Cassette Removal Howsoever the effort is eventually applied or from what angle, these directions are made assuming that the cogs of the wheel are facing you. Remove the rear wheel from the bike. Unscrew and remove the skewer assembly from the wheel. Fit the correct locking ring removal tool against the locking ring. Some removal tools have their own guide rods that feed through the middle of the hub. Apply a chain whip to the cogs to pull them clockwise, to prevent them from turning anti-clockwise during removal. While holding the cogs firmly with the chain whip, turn the removal tool with the wrench or lever-arm anti-clockwise to release it. Slackening requires considerable force, so a longer lever arm or pipe extension might help. It is usual to hear a clicking noise as the ring is initially released. Note that the torque wrench should never be used for heavy work of this kind. The cluster of cogs can then be removed. Note the alignment and sequence of the parts for reassembly before splitting up the cog-set. Consider stringing them together, since the spacer thicknesses might differ within the cluster. The smallest cogs will be noted to have built-in spacers, and perhaps shims. For those who have a bench fitted with a suitable vice, fit the tool into the cassette in the usual way and if possible use the skewer and its cap (no springs) to set it in position. Having done so, and with the wheel flat and the cog-set on the underside, grip the flats of the removal tool in the vice. Hold the cogs in the chain-whip and with it, turn the cogs anti- clockwise, (looking down on top of the wheel), to release the ring. Do not turn the wheel to make this release, but use only the chain-whip, letting the wheel turn with the cogs. Further details on the subject of cassette removal can be found at Park Tool's Cassette and Freewheel Removal [4]. A video that clearly shows the unlocking of a typical cassette is availble at FR-5 Lock-ring video [5]. Cassette Replacement The replacement of a cassette does not require the use of a chain whip, and the process is otherwise just a reverse of the removal. The procedure is as follows: Howsoever the effort is eventually applied or from what angle, these directions are made assuming that the cogs of the wheel are facing you. Clean the cassette and oil-wipe the cogs of the cluster. Grease the threads of the locking-ring and its receptacle. Fit the cassette cogs onto the freehub splines with the correct orientation. While manufacturers attempt to ensure that only one working alignment can exist, there will no doubt be exceptions. In addition, take care that the cassette spacers are in the correct sequence, since they are not always identical. Screw on the locking ring loosely into position. Turn the tool on the locking ring clockwise with a wrench, (no chain whip needed), to establish the manufacturer's recommended torque. In the absence of data, aim for about of 360in.lbs, (40N.m), (30ft.lbs).

68

Freewheels and Cassettes Freewheel Removal Howsoever the effort is eventually applied or from what angle, these directions are made assuming that the cogs of the wheel are facing you. Remove the rear wheel from the bike. Unscrew and remove the skewer assembly from the wheel. Fit the correct removal tool into the recess in the hub. Some removal tools have their own guide rods that feed through the middle of the hub. Turn the removal tool with the wrench or lever-arm anti-clockwise to slacken the freewheel. Slackening requires considerable force, so a longer lever arm or pipe extension might help. Consider the use of a bench and vice if it is available. Note that the torque wrench should never be used for heavy work of this kind. The freewheel cluster can then be removed as a complete unit. If a bench-vice is to be used, then first set the removal tool in the wheel and if possible use the skewer and its cap (no springs) to set it in position. Place the wheel, cogs down with the flats of the tool in the vice. Turn the wheel anti-clockwise, (looking down on top of the wheel), to unscrew the freewheel. An inflated tire gives the best grip. Freewheel Replacement Howsoever the effort is eventually applied or from what angle, these directions are made assuming that the cogs of the wheel are facing you. Unscrew the skewer assembly from the wheel. Clean the freewheel, oil-wipe the cogs, and grease both its threads and the threads on the hub. Fit the freewheel onto the hub threads until it is hand tight. Tighten the freewheel further using the wrench and tool in a clock-wise direction, to obtain the torque recommended by the manufacturer. In the absence of data, aim for about of 240 in.lbs, (27 N.m), (20 ft.lbs). The freewheel will tighten in use in any case; the above figure is given to avoid uncertainty at the point of delivery. There is little advantage in making use of a vice for the freewheel fitting, but for those who intend to do so, they can find a method at Park Tool's Cassette and Freewheel Removal [4].

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Gearing Calculations
This section provides the rudimentary calculations associated with bicycle gearing.

Distance Shifted
In all indexed shifting, (as opposed to friction shifting), there is a fundamental relation to describe the transverse distance that a derailleur cage shifts across the cog-set or chainrings. The transverse distance shifted is equal to the product of the shifter's cable pull and the derailleur's shift ratio. In practice, the distance shifted must equal the center to center spacing of the cogs, (or chainrings). Most modern rear-shifting is indexed, and some front-shifting is indexed (for example, Shimano). See Gear Changing Dimensions for a selection of such data.
Transverse Distance of Derailleur Cage = Shifter Cable Pull x Derailleur Shift Ratio

For example:

For a seven-speed rear cogset, a Shimano rear derailleur, and a SRAM MRX twist 7-speed shifter; we have; x 2.9mm cable pull = 4.93mm Approximately 5mm

Transverse Distance of Derailleur Cage = 1.7 ratio

This suits all seven speed center to center spacings since they are all set at 5mm centers.

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Derailleur Capacity
When a rear-derailleur is planned or when an existing chain ring or cogset is changed, the required total capacity of the derailleur needs to be checked. The total capacity refers to the ability of the derailleur to take up slack across the entire range of gear combinations. Since the gear combinations are affected by the range of both the chain rings and the rear cogset, these are both represented in the calculation. The required capacity of the rear derailleur becomes:
Minimum Required Capacity = (Largest cog - Smallest cog) + (Largest chainring - Smallest chainring)

For example:

For a cogset 11T - 30T with only one chainring of 38T; we have; The 'total capacity' spec for the derailleur must be at least 19T.

Minimum Required Capacity = (30T - 11T) + (38T - 38T) = 19T

Another example:

For a cogset 11T - 28T and chain rings 20, 30, and 42; we have; The 'total capacity' spec for the derailleur must be at least 39T.

Minimum Required Capacity = (28T - 11T) + (42T - 20T) = 39T

Other consideraions within a derailleur's specification sheet include front chain ring tooth difference and smallest and largest rear cog sizes. This latter requirement ensures that as the derailleur traverses the cogs on its in-built gradient, the clearance of the cage, as set by the 'b-height' adjustment, is reasonably consistent. Attention should also be paid to the number of gears for which the derailleur is intended, and whether or not the shifter is compatible with its shift ratio.

Gear-Inches and Ground Covered

Gear inch calculations are used by those who plan the design of cycle gearing, and are useful when a new bike is being considered. They allow a tabular layout where the gears associated with adjacent chain rings can be studied for their overlap and convenience, and allow a purchaser to predict whether or not an intended ride will have a similar sweet spot, or feel, like their existing bike. Multiplying the gear-inch figure by the constant pi (approximately 3) gives the distance covered by one complete turn of the pedals. Calculations are made for each gear combination of front chain ring and rear sprocket. The formula for any one combination is just:
Gear Inches = Outside Inch-Diameter of driven Bicycle Wheel X (Size front chain ring / Size rear sprocket)

For example: Gear Inches =

For an 11T rear sprocket and a 38T chain ring, with a 26 inch rear wheel diameter, we have: 26 X (38T / 11T) = 89.8

and the distance covered in one turn of pedals is: Distance (inches) = ''gear-inches X pi'' = 89.8 x 3.142 = 282.2 inches = 23.5 feet for one turn of the pedals.

It is usual to make a table of the gear inches and then possibly another table showing the change in gear inches between adjacent gears. This permits an understanding of the relative effort required in the use of adjacent gears. An on-line calculator that saves some work can be found at 'Gears by Sheldon Brown [6]. A typical gear-inch table is shown below, and although it is not entirely obvious in this example, for convenient arrangements, the top figure of each column is most usually found in the middle of the next column to its right.

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Gear Inches for 11T-30T cogs, 20T,30T,38T chain rings , and 26 inch wheels
Gear Inches 20T Chain Ring 30T Chain Ring 38T Chain Ring 11T cog 13T cog 15T cog 18T cog 21T cog 24T cog 30T cog 47 40 35 29 25 22 17 71 60 52 43 37 33 26 90 76 66 55 47 41 33

See Also
Gear-changing Dimensions : A page devoted to the dimensions of gear shifting

External Links
Park Tool Repair Help [7] 'Cassettes & Freehubs by Sheldon Brown [8] 'Gears by Sheldon Brown [6]: A gear-inches calculator using wheel diameter; see below for wheel circumference. Spacing Cribsheet by Sheldon Brown [1]: Details of many cogsets, with pitch, cog thickness, and spacer thickness given, as well as overall hub use. Rear Shifting (Mixing Systems) by CTC - the UKs national cyclists organisation. [3] Gearing 101 by The Cycling Site [9] SRAM Service Page Links by SRAM [10] SRAM Tech Manual 2010 by SRAM' [11] SHIMANO techdocs links by Shimano' [4] Campagnolo Technical Documentation by Campagnolo [12] Campagnolo Gear-Inches Calculator by Campagnolo [13]: Uses wheel circumference.

References
[1] http:/ / sheldonbrown. com/ cribsheet-spacing. shtml [2] http:/ / www. sheldonbrown. com/ freewheels. html [3] http:/ / sheldonbrown. com/ gloss_i-k. html#iso [4] http:/ / www. parktool. com/ blog/ repair-help/ cassette-and-freewheel-removal [5] http:/ / www. parktool. com/ product/ cassette-lockring-tool-fr-5 [6] http:/ / www. sheldonbrown. com/ gears/ [7] http:/ / www. parktool. com/ blog/ repair-help [8] http:/ / www. sheldonbrown. com/ k7. html#up7 [9] http:/ / www. cyclingsite. com/ lists_articles/ gearing_101. htm [10] http:/ / www. sram. com/ service [11] http:/ / www. sram. com/ sites/ default/ files/ techdocs/ my10-sram-tech-manual-rev-a. pdf [12] http:/ / www. campagnolo. com/ jsp/ en/ doc/ doccatid_1. jsp [13] http:/ / www. campagnolo. com/ jsp/ en/ techmetric/ index. jsp

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Gear-changing Dimensions
Introduction
This page intends to document the various standards that are in use by manufacturers for bicycle gear-shifting. The parts that are most likely to be of interest are the measurements of cogsets, the cable pull of shifters, and the shift ratios of derailleurs. In addition, notes on the mixing of gear from different manufacturers is also of interest to those who intend to improvise.

The Shift Equation

In all indexed shifting there is a fundamental shifting equation that applies to the gear-changing process. For convenience, it is repeated here.
A nine-speed cassette on a bicycle's rear wheel.

The product of cable pull and the derailleur's shift ratio (reciprocal of actuation ratio) equals the transverse distance moved by the derailleur cage across the cogs. For useful shifting the distance shifted must equal the center to center cog spacing (pitch).
Center to center cog spacing (or pitch) = Cable pull x Derailleur shift ratio

REAR SHIFTING TABLES

Cog Pitch
The center to center spacing between adjacent cogs of a cluster is called the pitch. It is usual for the pitch to be uniform across a cog-set whether it is arranged in a freewheel or in a cassette. Other uses of the term pitch refer to the distance between teeth on the cogs and the distance between links of the chain that engage them. Chains have an unambiguous pitch of 0.5 inches on bicycles, so this term can be used here safely to refer to center to center cog spacing. The pitch is made up of the thickness of a cog plus the thickness of a spacer. Cogs are sometimes increased in thickness to accommodate the increased stresses applied to them, and in these cases the spacers are reduced in thickness to maintain a uniform pitch. The pitch is reduced for increasing numbers of cogs. There are disadvantages in setting the chain-line of a bicycle far from the wheel's center, so at some stage as the number of cogs is increased, they must be fitted closer together hence the reduced pitch. The pitch of all modern seven-speed cog-sets is invariably five millimeters. This is true for all manufacturers of seven-speed cog-sets, and such consistency is unusual in cog standards. In most other sizes, manufacturers have used their own standards, so that it is usual to have different pitch dimensions even for the same size of cassette. Table 1 lists the pitch of some commonly available cog-sets as well as various other dimensions:

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Cog Thickness and Spacing

Cog thickness is usually uniform as is spacer thickness but both can vary within a set. Sometimes spacers are in-built and inseparable from a sprocket. This is most often the case in the first few sprockets of a cassette. Even in these inbuilt cases, the spacing is such as to maintain a correct and uniform pitch. Table 1 lists the uniform cog and spacer thicknesses for some commonly available cog-sets, with their pitch.:

Cog-set Stack Width

The overall width of a uniform cog-set can be calculated: In terms of pitch: Stack width = pn - p + thickness of one cog where n is number of cogs; and p is the cog pitch. The stack widths for various uniform cog-sets are given in Table 1. When cog-sets are assembled with parts from different sources the stack width is often built out with additional spacers to allow the fitting of cogs onto the freehub. At times it is difficult to reconcile the widths of large cassettes with the known available space on the hub; this is usually because some cogs of the cluster are designed to overhang the normal fittings.

TABLE FOR REAR SHIFTING ONLY Table 1: Cog-set Sprocket Pitch and Other Data by Size and Manufacturer Credit due to CTC, the UK's national cyclists' organisation. [3] Note: The term pitch in these tables means inter-cog center-to-center spacing.
Cassette Sprocket Pitch Code Sprocket Thickness Spacer Thickness Stack Width mm. All 5 and 6-speed All standard 7-speed Shimano Hyperglide 7-speed Campagnolo 8-speed Shimano 8-speed SRAM 8-speed Campagnolo 9-speed Shimano 9-speed SRAM 9-speed Campagnolo 10-speed Shimano 10-speed SRAM 10-speed Campagnolo 11-speed 5 - 5.50 5.00 5.00 5.00 4.80 4.80 4.55 4.35 4.35 4.15 3.95 3.95 3.85 S5/6 S7 S7 C8 S8 S8 C9 S9 S9 C10 S10 S10 C11 1.85. 1.9 1.8 1.8 1.75 1.78 1.8 1.7 1.6 1.6 1.6 3.15 3.1 3.00 3.00 2.8 2.56 2.54 2.42 2.35 2.35 2.25 mm. mm. mm. 23.2 - 29.5 31.5 - 32.4 31.9 36.9 35.4 35.4 38.2 36.5 36.5 38.8 37.2 37.2 40.1*

*In cases where the available freehub space is less than the stack width, mainly for large cogsets, some cogs have been specially designed to overhang the stack.

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Rear Shift Ratios

Actuation ratio is given as the ratio of an input change to an output effect, and the shift ratio is its reciprocal. In the specific case of bicycle derailleurs, the shift ratio it is the distance that the cage travels across the cogs divided by the cable pull to acheive it. In other words shift ratio is the cog-pitch divided by the cable pull. The SRAM and Shimano manufacturers make use of approximate gain ratios as short-codes that identify the family for compatibility of their products. They refer to them as either 2:1 (for Shimano compatible products) or 1:1 (for SRAM's own products). These terms in fact refer to families with shift ratios of 1.7 (one-point-seven) and 1.1 (one-point-one) respectively, so they do not depict the exact shift or actuation ratios. When SRAM makes a product for Shimano compatibility it uses the 2:1 keyword to identify it as such.

TABLE FOR REAR SHIFTING ONLY Table 2: Shift Ratios for Derailleurs by Manufacturer
Manufacturers' Shift Ratios Campagnolo Campagnolo Old Dura Ace Shimano SRAM SRAM (New) (Old) 2:1 for all 1:1 family 2:1 family 1.5 1.4 1.9 1.7 1.1 1.7

Shifter Cable Pull

For rear shifting there is no distinction between the shifters used for MTB (mountain bikes), and road bikes, (drop-handlebars and racers). For front shifting, (section still needs completion, and data is almost non-existant), the Shimano shifters have a different cable pull for their MTB and road series.

TABLE FOR REAR SHIFTING ONLY Table 3: Cable Pull Length for Various Gear Shifters by Manufacturer Credit due to CTC, the UK's national cyclists' organisation. [3]
Shifter Cable Pull (mm) Shimano 6 Shimano 7 Shimano 8 Shimano 9 Shimano 10 Campagnolo 8 Campagnolo old 9 Campagnolo new 9 Campagnolo 10 Campagnolo 11 SRAM (1:1) 7 SRAM (1:1) 8 SRAM (1:1) 9 SRAM (1:1-Exact Actuation) 10 3.2 2.9 2.8 2.5 2.3 3.5 3.2 3.0 2.8 2.6 4.5 4.3 4.0 3.1 C9 C10 C11 (1:1)-7 (1:1)-8 (1:1)-9 (1:1)-10 S6 S7 S8 S9 S10 C8 Code

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SRAM (2:1) 7 SRAM (2:1) 8 SRAM (2:1) 9 2.9 2.8 2.5 S7 S8 S9

Rear Shifting Modifications

At times it is of interest to know whether or not the components of other than the host manufacturer will work well for indexed shifting. Table 4 brings together the data of Tables 1, 2, and 3 to generate the derailleur shifts that would result from the mixing of components. By relating these shifts to the known pitches of the available cog-sets, it is possible to gauge the likelihood of success or failure. Follow the examples that follow the table to understand how it is used.

TABLE FOR REAR SHIFTING ONLY Table 4: Predicted cog-shifts for variously mixed bicycle drive-gear Credit due to CTC, the UK's national cyclists' organisation. [3] Note: The term pitch in these tables means inter-cog center-to-center spacing.
Rear Mechanism Shimano old Dura-ace Hubbub New Old Campagnolo Campagnolo 1.5 Code 1.4 Code SRAM (1:1)

Derailleur Shift Ratios Shifter

1.7

1.9

1.6

1.1 Pitch (mm) C9 C10 S10 3.54 3.22 3.09 2.80 2.55 3.89 3.54 3.39 3.09 2.83 5.00 4.80 4.35 3.9 (1.25:1) C10 S10 3.22 3.09 2.80 S7 S8 S9 S10 S10 Code

Cable Pull Pitch Code Pitch Code Pitch (mm) (mm) 5.5 5.0 4.8 4.35 3.95 6.03 5.49 5.26 4.79 4.48 7.76 7.45 6.75 5.27 5.0 4.8 4.35 S7 S8 S9 S8 S9 S5/6 S5/6 S7 S8 S9 S10 (mm) 6.07 5.52 5.30 4.80 4.36 6.66 6.06 5.80 5.29 4.94 8.56 8.22 7.45 5.89 5.52 5.30 4.80 S8 S5/6 S5/6 S7/8 S8 S9 S5/6 (mm)

Pitch Code Pitch (mm) S8 S9 C10 (mm) 4.56 4.14 3.98 3.60 3.27

Shimano 6 Shimano 7 Shimano 8 Shimano 9 Shimano 10 Campagnolo 8 Campagnolo old 9 Campagnolo new 9 Campagnolo 10 Campagnolo 11 SRAM (1:1) 7 SRAM (1:1) 8 SRAM (1:1) 9 SRAM (1:1 - Exact Actuation) 10 SRAM (2:1) 7 SRAM (2:1) 8 SRAM (2:1) 9

3.2 2.9 2.8 2.5 2.3 3.5 3.2 3.0 2.8 2.6 4.5 4.3 4.0 3.1 2.9 2.8 2.5

4.98 S7/C8 4.76 4.53 4.35 3.94 3.58 5.47 4.98 4.76 4.34 4.05 7.03 6.75 6.12 4.96 4.53 4.35 3.94 C9 S9 S10 6.45 5.84 4.65 4.33 4.16 3.77 S5/6 S7 S8 S9 S10 C9 S9 S10 4.33 4.16 3.77 3.42 5.22 4.75 4.55 4.15 3.85

5.00 S7/C8 S8 C9 C10 C11 4.55 4.36 3.97 3.70 6.43 6.17 5.59 4.34 S9 C10 4.14 3.98 3.60 C9 S9 S10

COLOR CODE Designed to Match Unused Shifter Numbers Needs Shortened Cassette

Gear-changing Dimensions Tables 1 and 4 give the means to predict whether or not rear-gear shifting will work with various combinations of shifters, derailleurs, and cogs. Because of the size limitations and difficulty in modifying freewheels, these tables refer in the main to CASSETTES. The emphasis here is on closeness of pitch, and other practical factors might still need to be considered. The pitch of common cog-sets is given in one table and the derailleur shift data is given in another. The shift data is divided into four main categories: GREEN Colors These show the resultant derailleur shift in millimeters when the shifter, derailleur, and cogs of one manufacturer are used together. This is the ideal situation. For example, the Shimano 10-speed shifter with a cable pull of 2.3mm is applied to a Shimano derailleur with a shift ratio of 1.7, resulting in a shift (2.3mm x 1.7) of 3.91mm. Allowing for the precision of the available data this fits the Shimano 10-speed cog-set pitch of 3.95mm well, and the shifting is considered to be ideal. YELLOW Colors These give the resultant derailleur shift in millimeters when other than the ideal combination is used, and are characterized by having an intact set of cogs, but unused positions on the shifter when the modification is complete.(But see Campagnolo 'old and new'). The pitch that is produced works well enough with the alternative cog-set. For example, the Campagnolo 10-speed shifter with a cable pull of 2.8mm is applied to a Shimano derailleur with a shift ratio of 1.7, resulting in a shift (2.8mm x 1.7) of 4.76mm. Allowing for the precision of the available data this fits the Shimano 8-speed cog-set pitch of 4.80mm well. That is to say, the Campagnolo 10-speed shifter could be used with the Shimano derailleur provided that there was an 8-speed Shimano cog-set installed. The other two positions on the shifter would remain unused, excluded by adjusting the limit stops of the derailleur. RED Colors These give the resultant derailleur shift in millimeters when other than the ideal combination is used, and although the shifter range will be correct, they need some cogs to be left off the cassette assembly. The pitch that is produced works well enough with the specified cog-set. For example, the Campagnolo 8-speed shifter with a cable pull of 3.5mm is applied to a SRAM (1.0) derailleur with a shift ratio of 1.1, resulting in a shift (3.5mm x 1.1) of 3.85mm. Allowing for the precision of the available data this fits the Shimano S10 cog-set pitch of 3.95mm well. That is to say, the cog-set can be assembled using eight of the Shimano 10-speed cogs and seven of its spacers. OTHER Shift Data Data other than those with green, yellow, or red coloring would not index correctly. That said, there are some other Shimano combinations that can be applied to a Shimano 7-speed freehub. The set can be extended to eight cogs if S9 cogs form the cassette, and a 9-speed shifter and chain are used. Similar results can be obtained for nine cogs on a 7-speed freehub if S10 is used for the assembly, and a 10-speed shifter and chain are used. In each of these two cases the unused positions on the shifters are blocked by the adjustment of the derailleurs' limit stops. 7 August 2011

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SRAM Rear Shifter Families (2:1 or 1:1)

The SRAM manufacturer makes two families of gear shifters. The families differ too greatly to be interchanged in rear-shifting. One is Shimano compatible (called 2:1) and one is not; (called 1:1). The 1:1 shifters are designed for SRAM's own (native) 1:1 rear derailleur family, and can also be used with modified numbers of shifts, for their front derailleurs and the front derailleurs of Shimano. See the compatibility details for rear shifting in table 5.

TABLE FOR REAR SHIFTING ONLY Table 5: SRAM Rear Shifter Families
SRAM Shifter Designation... ...For Rear Derailleur Family SRAM Trigger Shifters Attack (8/9 speeds) Rocket TRX (7/8 speeds) Via X-3 (7 speed) X-4 (8 speed) X-5 (8/9 speeds) X-7 (9 speed) X-7 (10 speed exact actuation) X-9 (9 speed) Shimano compatible 2:1 Shimano compatible 2:1 Shimano compatible 2:1 SRAM 1:1 only SRAM 1:1 only SRAM 1:1 only SRAM 1:1 only SRAM 1:1 only SRAM 1:1 only SRAM 1:1 only SRAM Twist Shifters 3.0 Comp (7/8 speeds) 3.0 MRX comp (7/8 speeds) Centera (8/9 speeds) MRX Pro(7/8/9 speeds) X.0 (8/9 speeds) X.5 (8/9 speeds) X.7 (9 speed) X.9 (9 speed) SRAM 1:1 only Shimano compatible 2:1 Shimano compatible 2:1 Shimano compatible 2:1 SRAM 1:1 only SRAM 1:1 only SRAM 1:1 only SRAM 1:1 only

FRONT SHIFTING TABLES

The following table is intended for data collection. If it is successful it will form a useful collaborative effort in writing. As the heading shows it is for Shimano road front shifting, not because of any preference for their products but because they have different cable-pull standards for their front road shifters, compared to their MTB front shifters, and the matter is poorly documented. It might be of interest to know that Shimano's rear shifter cable pulls are the same for road and MTB of a given speed. Interested parties should please add data using a full set of measurements taken from the same well-working, drop-handlebar, road bicycle. In this way it is hoped that data comparable to that available for rear-shifting can be tabulated. If readers are uncomfortable about entering data into the table directly, please just place the data in the discussion text (see page top, and don't forget to save), and an editor will complete the entries or straighten out the table as necessary.

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TABLE FOR SHIMANO FRONT ROAD SHIFTING ONLY Table 6: Raw Data from Individual Contributors for Shimano Front Road Shifting
Front Shifter Number of Rear Cogs or Hub Gear Type (A) Front Cable Pull (mm) Model of Front Derailleur (B) Chainring Spacing Center to Center (mm) Double or Triple Rings? (Enter D or T) (C) Calculated Derailleur Shift Ratio (Enter C = A/B)

RapidFire Plus flat bar Shifter EZ Fire Brake/Shift flat bar lever SL flat bar Shifter 2300 Shifter 105 Shifter Sora Shifter Tiagra Shifter Ultegra Shifter

9 8 10 9 9 10

Front Shift Ratios

The notion of shift ratio, the ratio of cable pull to the distance that the derailleur moves across the chain-rings is primarily of interest for indexed shifting, as opposed to friction shifting. Regrettably, manufacturers give no more information for front shifting than they do for rear shifting, and user data is scarce. The few facts that are available are these. SRAM Front Derailleurs: The native SRAM shift ratio for its front and rear gear is in fact about 1.1, as opposed to the 1:1 family's implied unity. In general, SRAM shifters that are made for the 1:1 family can be used with native SRAM front and rear derailleurs, provided of course that they have the correct number of speeds. Shimano Front Derailleurs: Shimano makes use of indexed front shifting. The Shimano shift ratio for front derailleurs is close to that of SRAM's 1:1 family, ie, unity or 1.1. Note that this differs considerably from their rear derailleur ratios of 1.7. Although this fact is not specified by Shimano, because SRAM advertises 1:1 shifters for their rear shifting as being suitable for Shimano's front derailleurs, the assumed shift ratio of unity seems reasonable. Shimano's front shifters however, differ for road and MTB use; a discussion at CTC on Front Shifting [1] implies that an MTB pulls 9.75mm of cable for a front shift whereas a road shifter pulls only 6.75mm; some 3mm less than the MTB. Campagnolo Front Shifters: No information as yet. An excessive cable pull on a two-chainring bike might still work if it is recalled that the limit stops of the front derailleur can be brought in to restrict any excessive cage travel. In this way the shifting is not really indexed, and perhaps a bit heavy, but might function just the same. Attempting the same thing with three chain-rings is unlikely to work well. For this, indexed shifting is much preferred.

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Shifter Cable Pull

External Links
'Campagnolo Technical Documentation by Campagnolo [12] 'SRAM Service Page Links by SRAM [10] 'SRAM Tech Manual 2010 by SRAM [11] 'SHIMANO techdocs links by Shimano [4] Shimano Spares and Support [2] SRAM - Mountain Bike Components [3]: The SRAM manufacturer's products page. CTC on Front Shifting [1]: Commentary on front derailleur matters by the leading British cycling association. CTC on Rear Shifting [3]: Commentary on rear shifting matters and in particular modifications, by the leading British cycling association.

References
[1] http:/ / www. ctc. org. uk/ desktopdefault. aspx?tabid=4068 [2] http:/ / www. shimanoservicecentre. co. uk/ spares_and_support. php [3] http:/ / www. sram. com/ sram/ mountain/ category/ 81

Glossary
A
Actuation Ratio In general, the change of input action divided by the change of output effect. In bicycles, it is most mentioned in relation to the indexed shifting of derailleurs, where it refers to the change in length of the shift cable divided by the transverse change in position of the derailleur across the cogs. Although the handlebar shifter no doubt has an actuation ratio of its own, it is the length of cable shifted that is of interest to indexed shifting. The reciprocal of actuation ratio is called the shift ratio, and this ratio is used more often. Typical figures for derailleur shift ratio are 1.7 for Shimano, 1.1 for the native SRAM set, and 1.5 for Campagnolo. In addition, SRAM makes a family of Shimano compatible shifter products with the appropriate cable shifts.

B
'B-height' adjustment One of the three main derailleur adjustments. It sets the distance of the guide pulley below the largest cog. It is important for clean shifting and low cog / chain wear. Barrel-adjuster A screw adjustment that is installed in-line with brake or shift housings to simulate a change in the housings length. This causes a movement of the cable within the housing. Cable with housing is referred to as a Bowden cable. Bowden cable The combination of a steel cable in a reinforced flexible housing that is used to operate brakes and derailleurs. Brake

Glossary The assembly on the wheel that brings the bicycle to a halt. It applies friction to a part of the wheel, for example the wheel rim or within the hub. Most bicycles have a brake on each wheel. Brake arms The parts of a brake assembly near the wheel the that pivot and provide any necessary leverage to assist in the application of the brake pads. Brake balancing The process whereby both brake pads are caused to reach the wheel rim at the same time. This ensures stability in braking. Brake cable The steel wire cable that connects a brake lever to the brake arms, used to operate the brakes. A part of a Bowden cable. Brake housing The reinforced, flexible cable conduit used by the brake cable. A part of a Bowden cable. Brake lever The lever on the handlebars operated by the rider to make a brake work. Brake pads The parts, usually rubber or leather, that come into contact with both sides of a wheel's rim to brake it.

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C
Cable A twisted steel wire that is used to operate brakes and derailleurs. Diameters vary between about 1.2mm and 1.5mm. Cable cap A small metal piece that fits onto the end of a cut cable to prevent its fraying. It is either crimped or soldered. Cable clamp Screwed fastenings at brakes and derailleurs used to fix cable ends. Cable cutters Special cutters that can cut tough steel cable. They are also used to cut reinforced cable housings. Both blades have v-shaped cutouts to avoid crushing the housing's end. Cable housing The outer part of a Bowden cable that acts as a conduit for the steel inner wire. It is supplied in both 4 and 5mm external diameters. Cable sleeve The lubricated cable route within the outer housing of a Bowden cable. Cable terminal The thickened end part of a cable that is designed to fit into shifters or brake levers, and acts as an anchor there. There are barrel-ends for the brakes of bikes with non-drop handlebars, pear-ends for racers, and button-ends for shifters.

Glossary

81

D
Derailleur The assembly near a wheel that moves the chain from one cog to another in order to change the ease of pedalling. It does so when the rider operates a shifter on the handlebars. Derailleurs exist for both the rear cogs and for the front chainrings, so increasing the number of gear combinations. Derailleur capacity The extent to which the chain can be made to tighten when a gear is selected that uses smaller cogs. The most severe test of a derailleur's capacity (total capacity) occurs when there is a shift from using the largest cogs on front and back, to using the smallest cogs on front and back. Total capacity is therefore expressed as the front chainring range plus the rear cog range (measured in teeth) , and decides a derailleur's suitability for given gear-sets. Derailleurs are made in so-called low, medium, and long-cage families for small, medium, and large total capacities respectively. Derailleur hanger A sacrificial metal plate that is fixed between the bicycle frame and the derailleur, designed to bend on impact instead of the other equipment. These differ greatly between bikes, and generally speaking are hardly ever interchangeable. Each has a lip whose angle sets the upper limit of the derailleur's 'B-height' adjustment.

F
Ferrule A metal or plastic cap that is used on both ends of a Bowden cable's housing, to ensure alignment of the internal sleeve and to provide a good bearing surface. The inner cable extends through the ferrule while the housing's end is sealed. They are most often pressed on as a tight fit, but some are crimped onto housings. They are supplied with internal diameters of either 4 or 5mm. Ferrules come into contact with cable stops on frames or make a loose fit in the ends of barrel adjusters, and sometimes the ferrules for these purposes differ. Sometimes housing ferrules also have curved metal transitions, to better guide an inner cable at the brakes.

G
Gear-inches A measure of the difficulty in pedalling. It is a calculated figure based on the two cogs in use at the time, and the diameter of the driven wheel. It is just the ratio of the front chainring and the rear cog (in teeth), times the diameter of the driven wheel (in inches). The gear-inch figures are used to plan gearing for the various riders' needs, and the road distance traveled with one complete turn of the pedals can be found by multiplying the gear-inch figures by the constant pi (3.142).

S
(See Actuation Ratio also). The reciprocal of actuation ratio. Shift ratio in bicycles most often applies to a property of derailleurs and is the inter-cog spacing of the cogset divided by the length of cable pull to make a shift.

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Handlebars and Stems

While riding sometimes bolts and screws get rattled loose. Therefor it is always important that they are checked regularly to prevent accidents. Check the stem to see if the bolts are tightened accordingly to the correct torque (if you don't know this amount, then check with your local bike supplier, or stem manufacturer). Make sure that the bolts also are evenly tightend. Check that the grips are secured and will not slip off. If you have got lock-on grips, the tighten the bolts on these if they are loose. Check your brake levers and gear-shifters. These should be tight enough so they don't move around, but not to tight so they don't get snapped off if the bike is involved in a crash. ODI lock-on grips [1]

References
[1] http:/ / www. odigrips. com/

Headsets
See Also
Headset overhaul

Headset Overhaul
Overview
Like most other bicycle bearings the headset needs periodic maintenance to keep it running smoothly. There are two basic types of headset. The style more common on older bikes is the threaded system, so called because the steerer tube of the fork is threaded. The top bearing race (cone) screws onto the fork steerer tube and is held in adjustment by a lock nut. The stem has an extension that extends down into the steerer tube and is held in place by a wedge. Most new bikes now use the threadless system. The fork steerer has no threads. Unlike the threaded system the steerer tube extends beyond the top of the headset. The stem clamps onto the steerer tube holding everything together. The headset bearings are tensioned (adjusted) by an allen bolt that pulls up on a star nut inserted into the steerer tube. This applies tension against the upper bearing race (the stem needs to be loosened when for this adjustment to be made). Headsets also use several different bearings types including loose ball bearings, roller bearings and cartridge bearings.

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Threadless Headsets
Disassembly
Remove the pre load adjustment bolt on the top of the steerer tube. Also remove the top cap and any spacers that are above the stem. Making sure the fork is supported loosen the bolts clamping the stem to the steerer tube. Now the stem is loose pull it off the steerer tube. Since the stem is holding everything together the fork is free to fall out the bottom of the head tube if not restrained. Occasionally the conical compression ring will have a tight grip on the steerer. A gentle tap on the steerer tube with a mallet or your palm will free it up. Some (sealed-bearing) headsets will have a rubber O-ring fitted into the compression ring (bearing cap). Have a replacement handy, or take care not to shear the O-ring. Remove the fork from the frame, take care to note the location and orientation of the individual pieces. Clean and inspect bearings and races.
Threadless headset cross section

Assembly
Apply grease to both cups, crown race and bearings. Assemble the parts in reverse order that you removed them Slide the stem and spacers onto the steerer tube (but leave loose) and refit the top cap and bolt. The bearings are adjusted by tightening and loosening the top bolt. The bearings should be adjusted so there is no play. Clamp the front brake and rock the bike backwards and forwards to check. Now the bearings are correctly adjusted line up the stem and tighten the bolts.

an exploded view of a threadless headset

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Threaded Headsets
Assembly and adjustment
Adjustment of the threaded headset bearings is similar to the technique used for all cup and cone bearings. The stem is not a part of the headset and should be removed for all of this work. Don't worry about applying too much grease, excess will be squeezed out. Clean all old grease and dirt off all balls, races, cones, etc. Apply fresh grease to crown race and place clean (preferably new) bearing balls on the crown race, applying more grease as needed. Be careful not to drop any balls. If the balls are in a cage, slide the cage down the steerer tube and place it on the race. Slide the fork into the steerer tube of the frame, again being careful not to drop any balls.

Threaded headset cross section

Apply fresh grease to the top cup and place clean (preferably new) bearing balls on the top cup, applying more grease as needed. Be careful not to drop any balls. If the balls are in a cage, carefully place the cage in the top cup. Apply a thin layer of grease to the fork steerer tube threads (mainly to ease removal in the future). Screw the threaded race down the fork until it is tight enough to prevent any balls from falling out, but still leaving some play, to be adjusted later. Slide down any washers on top of the threaded race. The washers are often keyed to fit in a notch in the steerer tube of the fork. Screw the headset locknut down the steerer tube and loosely against the threaded race (and washers). Finger tighten the threaded race down so that the fork turns easily but has no side-to-side play. If it is too loose, it will be possible to wobble the fork side-to-side. If the bearings are in poor condition, some compromise might be required, where the movement is slightly difficult in some positions and slightly wobbly in others. Holding the threaded race with one hand, finger tighten the locknut against the threaded race. Use two headset wrenches (or one headset wrench and one large adjustable wrench), tighten the locknut against the threaded race, without moving the threaded race. After the locknut has been tightened, the movement of the fork should still be smooth and without wobble. Loosen the locknut and repeat the previous step until this is achieved. If this can't be achieved, possible causes are: worn bearing balls, worn rolling surfaces, incorrect number of balls, bent fork steerer tube. Wipe off excess grease and admire the results of your efforts.

External links
http://www.bikewebsite.com/adjhead.htm

Hubs

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Hubs
See Also
Cleaning and repacking a hub

Cleaning and repacking a hub

Hub Bearings
Over time the bearings in the hubs of a bicycle wheel may come out of adjustment causing the wheel to wobble from side to side (this can also be the result of the wheel being out of true; a sure sign of loose bearings is that the rim can be moved laterally in the fork by hand). Additionally, road dirt and moisture infiltrate the bearings, causing rough operation and premature wear. Even if these issues do not arise, the bearings' lubrication will eventually need to be replaced in order to maintain the life and health of the hubs. These problems can be addressed by overhauling the hubs. The basic techniques are similar to maintaining any other ball bearing assemblies, whether the headset or bottom bracket on the bike, or on complete different applications. On some recent model mountain bikes, there has been a rash of rear hubs getting significant play after only a few rides; this may be due to bad cones or lock nuts. The drive side lock nut should be your number one suspect in this case if the bike is new.

Parts of the hub

From the inside out: Shell Bearing cup Bearings Bearing cone Dust cover Lock washer Lock nut Axle Quick release skewer

A diagram showing two types of rear hubs: a freehub, and a threaded hub for freewheels.

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Shell
Main body of hub, holds the axle assembly and is the connection point for the spokes.

Bearing Cup
Is pressed into the shell.

Bearing Cone
Forms the outside bearing races, fits onto axle, usually adjustible.

Bearings
There are three major types of bearings in use on bicycle hubs: Cup and Cone types Loose ball bearings are placed individually in the bearing race Caged bearings are simply loose ball bearings held in a framework, which simplifies their insertion in the hub. They differ from sealed, or cartridge, bearings in that the bearings are visible in a simple cage made of a circular piece of sheet metal with holes punched for the bearings, and the bearings can be inserted and replaced into the cage with simple hand tools, or even just with the fingers. Cup and cone bearing hubs also usually have some form of sealing but it is separate to the bearings. Cartridge type Cartridge bearings are assembled and sealed in a permanently assembled cartridge, which renders them inaccessible. Cartridge bearings which have sealing have the advantage of being highly resistant to infiltration by dust and moisture, and usually needing no adjustment. They will generally last many years without service. If they do fail, they are simply replaced. Some hubs cannot be disassembled when the cartridge bearings are worn or fail; the more expensive ones can sometime be serviced by the manufacturer...

Cleaning and repacking a traditional cone and cup front hub

Place the wheel flat. Have something under the hub to catch loose bearings (unless you know for certain that they aren't loose). Usually, it does not matter which side of the wheel is up, however a few nonstandard axles have the cone on one side cast as an integral non-removable part of the axle and therefore the other cone must be on the top side for removal. This will be obvious to inspection. Using a box or cone wrench, unscrew the lock nut from the cone. It will be necessary to hold the cone from rotating while doing this; this will usually require a cone wrench, as the width of a normal open or adjustable wrench head is too great to fit on a normal cone. Remove lock washer and any other hardware. Unscrew bearing cone Pry out circular dust cover situated above bearings (this may also be done after axle is removed, as is necessary on the bottom side of the wheel) Separate wheel and axle At this point, depending on how the grease is distributed on the parts, the ball bearings may well stick to the axle, or drop out of the hub or into the axle hole through the hub, or remain in the cup. If the bearings are in a cage, they will generally remain in place unless the cage has been excessively worn. It is advisable to leave the other cone and locknut assembly undisturbed in its position on the axle, as this will allow you to maintain the original side to side alignment of the axle assembly in the hub as much as possible. (Of course,

Cleaning and repacking a hub this is mandatory where this assembly is not removable). It can be cleaned and greased in this condition. (If the cone is damaged, then it will need to be disassembled and replaced). Clean and inspect the bearings. Be prepared to replace any that are cracked or pitted. Most mechanics simply replace all loose bearings with new ones, as the cost is minimal compared to the labor involved in cleaning and examining old ones, and if the hub is reassembled with a bad or dirty ball it will rapidly wear. Similarly, caged bearings are usually replaced as a set, cage and all; in most cases, however, it is advantageous to replace caged bearings with loose bearings of the same size, as this results in a greater number of bearings in the hub, providing greater area and therefore greater resistance to wear, at the expense of only slightly more difficulty in keeping track of the bearings during assembly. Clean and inspect bearing cones. There should be no scratches or rough spots at all in the smooth track caused by the rolling bearings. A damaged cone can usually be replaced. Clean and inspect cups. The cup is factory pressed into the hub shell or sometimes cast as part of the shell, and is not generally user removable. Once again, the track of the rolling bearings should be completely free of scratches or rough spots. If the cup is damaged, sometimes a shop with a press can replace it. Grease bearing cups Re-insert bearings, which should be held in place by the grease Put another layer of grease on top of the bearings Re-insert dust covers Re-assemble by reinserting axle from underside, and replacing the cone, washer(s) and lock nut on top. Adjust as necessary. For ball bearings the adjustment is somewhat particular; there should be no excessive drag from over tightening, but also no excessive play from looseness. Although the proper adjustment is pretty obvious by "feel", tightening the locknut on the cone usually disturbs the adjustment enough to throw it off; therefore a bit of experience helps to estimate to what tightness the bearings should be adjusted, before tightening the locknut to produce the correct result afterwards. In practice, usually three wrenches are needed; one on the locknut, a cone wrench on the cone, and a third wrench on the locknut and cone assembly on the underside of the wheel, presumably firmly gripping the axle. This provides the ability to minutely tighten or loosen the top cone and locknut independently until the perfect tightness is achieved.

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Maintaining a cartridge bearing hub

There are many different designs so this is just an overview of the basic principles that can be used to service most cartridge bearing hubs.

Clean and lubricate bearings

If you ride in wet conditions you may be able to extend the life of the bearings by periodically cleaning and lubricating them. In most circumstances this is not required and the bearing will have an acceptable life with no maintenance. The idea is to remove one of the seals from the bearing so it can be cleaned and fresh grease applied. Typically the end caps block access to the seal so need to be removed. The method of attachment varies from hub to hub. Some just press on and can be pulled off by hand, others screw onto the axle and have flats for removal with a spanner or are held on by set screws. The end caps may also be part of the axle itself and the axle is removed by inserting an allen key into each end of the axle and unscrewing.

An example of a cartridge hub

Cleaning and repacking a hub Now there is access to the seal it is removed. This can be done by prying it out with a razor blade or small flat head screwdriver. Clean the bearing using degreaser and or rag. Apply fresh grease, a grease gun makes the job easier. Push the seal back into place and replace the end caps.

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Replace bearings
Replacement bearings can be sourced from good bike shop or from any bearing supplier. Typically bearings are identified from the numbers on the side of the bearing, take the old bearings with you to make sure you get the correct replacements. Removing old bearings. Remove end caps. Some just press on and can be pulled off by hand, others screw onto the axle and have flats for removal with a spanner or are held on by set screws. The end caps may also be part of the axle itself and the axel is removed by inserting an allen key into each end of the axle and unscrewing. Remove axle. Use a rubber mallet to hammer the axle out of the hub. The step on the axle will push one of the bearings out of the hub shell. Remove the bearing from the axle and use the axle to remove the other bearing from the hub shell. Some hubs do not use an axle with steps for the bearings to push against. These typically have a spacer instead. To remove the bearings push the spacer to the side and use a rubber mallet and a large flat head screwdriver to push the bearings out of the hub. Clean and inspect the hub shell and axle. Installing new bearings. Cartridge bearings are not good at absorbing side loads. When being pressed into the hub the force needs to be pushing on the outer metal ring to avoid damaging the bearing. A suitable sized socket can be used to do this. Lightly grease hub shell and axle where bearing will sit. Press a bearing into one side of the hub shell. Use a rubber mallet and socket trying to keep the bearings as straight as possible. Insert the axle or spacer. Press the second bearing into the hub. The bearing should be pushed in far enough that there are no side loads on the bearing. With good quality hubs you should just be able to push it in all the way and have everything line up. Cheaper hubs may require care to avoid putting side loads on the bearing. If the hub has a spacer to help keep it lined up you can insert the axle part way into the underside of the hub. Put the end caps back on.

Pressing in a cartridge bearing with socket

Maintenance Schedules

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Maintenance Schedules
Regular bicycle maintenance
Performing regular maintenance on a bicycle will improve its performance and longevity, and reduce the risk of breakdowns. The exact schedule for a particular bicycle will depend on how it is used: its weekly mileage, the weather conditions, road (or off road) surface conditions and so on. Most parts will need attention and possible replacement every year or two; if this is done, however, a bicycle can be maintained in good working order for decades. The schedule given here is a starting point for an average bike, assuming daily or weekly use; you will soon adjust this based on your own experience. Every ride: Check that the tires are inflated (a quick pinch to ensure they are hard generally suffices) Check both wheels will rotate without sticking Squeeze both brakes to make sure they engage properly (this is especially important if you have been working on the bike and may have disconnected the brake cables) Check for obvious loose parts; if you have panniers or removable child seats make sure they're properly attached Check you have working lights, a lock and a key if you will need them before you return After the ride, if the moving parts have got muddy or picked up road salt, give the bike a quick hose down. It's much easier doing it now than after it has dried! (washing with a bike cleaner helps get rid of dried on and hard to get off grime.) Once a week: Lubricate the chain Re-inflate the tires to the correct pressure. Rotate wheels to check that they are in true. Replace any broken spokes - other spokes will break and the wheel will be permanently bent if ridden in this condition. Quarterly: Check the brakes to ensure they are correctly adjusted, and that the pads are not worn. Check derailleur adjustment. Check screws or bolts holding attachments such as mudguards, racks, bottles etc. are tight. Check brake and gear cables for fraying or rusting, and lubricate. Grease seat post. It may not technically be a moving part, but it is not desirable for it to become permanently stuck. Adjust the saddle height and position if necessary. (when crank arm is in-line with seat tube and ball of foot is inline with pedal axle, knee should be slightly bent, then place heel on pedal, leg should then be completely straight. Hips should not wobble when riding bike, Lower seat if this occurs) Check tires for signs of wear, bulges or splitting. (replace immediately) Check handlebars are aligned properly with front wheel. Check reflectors (if required) are still attached Check the chain for wear

At least every two years: Replace the chain and front or rear sprockets Complete dis-assembly, cleaning, and lubricate all moving parts. Check bottom bracket and wheel hubs for excessive play and replace if worn.

Maintenance Schedules Check derailleur jockey wheels for wear, replace them if worn. *TIP* If the "teeth" of the jockey wheels or front or rear sprockets look sharp and pointy, Replace. (if rear cassette is worn, you will need to replace chain at the same time) Grease metal-to-metal contact points. Check saddle for splitting, and handlebar grips or tape for perishing or fraying Check headset; tighten or replace bearings as necessary

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Pedals
Types of Pedals
Non-serviceable pedals
For standard platform and cage pedals: Most (if not all) modern (c.2006) non-clipless pedals (like the one shown at right) are made to be disposed of when they wear out. This includes many pedals with toe clips: the days when 'serious' cyclists used toe clips are long gone, and so the manufacturers don't bother with making pedals for the low end of the market that can be overhauled. This makes maintenance obvious: remove the old pedals and install some new ones. These disposable pedals can last a long time. Make sure the plastic plugs in the ends of the pedals don't fall out; this is where the water and dirt will enter and speed up bearing wear.
A disposable platform/cage pedal.

Serviceable Pedals
It's worth having pedals that you can service yourself. (You do like working on your bike, don't you? That's why you're reading this book!) If you're not a 'serious' cyclist (and let's face it, most people aren't; if you are, we've got more information for you coming soon) then being able to re-pack the bearings in your pedals will save you lots of money over the years. It's also nice to not have to throw away gear that, but for want of a better design, could be renovated and used again.

Toe Clips, etc

Different pedal retention systems (or lack thereof) and how they interact with your feet and footwear. (Plain (do not use toe-clip-only pedals without toe clips!!!), toe clips, half clips, PowerGrips, clipless.) The spindles (axles) of pedals are made from hardened steel and can be reused to make tools such as punches. The most popular standard for pedals is 9/16", but some cheaper bicycles use 1/2" (based on nominal hole size).

Tools
Extra long spanners/wrenches are available for the removal of pedals. These typically have a head with a 9/16" opening on one side and a 15mm opening on the other side and long comfortable handle for extra leverage. If the pedal was installed properly, a pedal spanner is typically not required. But often pedals become seized and the longer lever arm and comfortable handle are useful in removing the pedal. Properly installed pedals should be removable with a standard spanner/wrench, mostly commonly 15mm. Usually the flats of the pedal are too small for a shifting spanner/adjustable wrench, unless the tool is very small (6" in length or less). Some pedals have a 8mm allen hole on the frame side which can be used for removal and installation.

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Removing Pedals
See the article on removing pedals

Installing Pedals
Pedals should always be greased before installing them, especially in areas where corrosion (i.e. from salt) is a problem. Any general purpose grease is acceptable. Ungreased pedals are very likely to become seized later and make for troublesome removal.

See Also
In this book: ../../Equipment and Accessories/Pedals Elsewhere: Wikipedia:Bicycle pedal

Removing pedals
A pedal can be removed using a pedal wrench or, sometimes, an allen wrench if there is a hexagonal hole in the inside end of the pedal axle. A normal open end spanner/wrench will work on some pedals; an adjustable spanner/wrench spanner will typically not work, because the head is too wide to fit between the pedal and the crank. A good shop-quality pedal wrench will also be longer than these, for the required leverage. This leverage is also the limiting factor for the use of allen wrenches in this application. If a normal spanner is all that you have (be it adjustable or not) then you may find that pedal removal is possible, especially if you are removing platform style pedalsthese generally have larger lands for the spanner. Just take care not to scratch or gouge the crank arm (see photo at right). Position an adjustable wrench so that, when turned, the adjustable jaw is on the "inside" of the turn. Usually, you should position the wrench as close to overlapping the crankarm as possible. (So that it is in front of the arm, not extending its line.) Before attempting to remove the right side pedal, make sure the chain is on the largest gear. (That way, if you slip, you'll have a more difficult time impaling yourself on the sharp chainring teeth.)

Be careful not to scratch the crank arm if you do use a normal spanner.

(Usually the left and right pedals are marked with an "L" or "R" on the end to make identification easy.) There are two important factors involved in removing bicycle pedals: 1. The left pedal (for left foot) has a left-hand thread i.e. it unscrews in the opposite direction to most threads (to unscrew it, you have to turn it clockwise). Left and right side pedals have opposite threads. The right hand, drive side, pedal is right hand (normal) thread; the left hand, non-drive side, pedal is left hand (reverse) thread. The easiest way to remember this is to have the spanner/wrench above pedal and push towards the back of the bicycle; this works on either side. This is not arbitrary--the natural motion of the pedal (which is counter-clockwise) will unscrew the left pedal if it is not left-handed. 2. Pedals, especially when they have not been removed in a long time, can be very tight. It is important to apply antiseize compound or grease to the threads before reassembly, to facilitate the next disassembly. Doubly so if the parts will be in a corrosive environment. (Salted roads, near saltwater, etc.) Any general purpose grease is

Removing pedals acceptable. Ungreased pedals are very likely to become seized later and make for troublesome removal. Note that there are two sizes of pedal axles in common, current-day use: 1/2 inch diameter for the one piece cranks typically found on children's bikes and older American-made bikes, and 9/16 inch diameter for the two and three piece cranks found on most modern adult bikes. Both sizes have SAE threads at 20 tracks per inch.

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Saddles and Seatposts

Loose or poorly adjusted saddle Proper saddle position is often a matter of personal preference. Saddles can be adjusted for height, tilt and fore/aft position. The exact combination that works best for you will depend on your physical size and your riding style. For more information about checking saddle position and making adjustments, check elsewhere in the site. Make sure your saddle is secure before every ride. Most saddles are held in place by a few simple nuts and bolts. All of them should be tight enough to resist vigorous shaking. An over-extended seat post This is a serious safety hazard. In general, at least two inches of your seat post should be inserted into your frame at all times. This rule however will vary considerably if you follow the growing fashion of "showing a lot of seatpost". If you have to raise your seat post beyond its extension limit line to get comfortable on your saddle, it's probably time for a larger seat post, or a bigger bike. Once you've found the "perfect" saddle position for you, mark your seat post and your saddle rails with tape or felt tip pen (indelible) so you can readjust them easily. Preventing problems Regularly remove your seat post from your frame and coat it with a thin layer of grease before re-installing it. This grease layer will help protect the post against rust and corrosion and more important, prevent the post seizing in your frame. Checking your saddle You should check your saddle to ensure it's secure and properly positioned. Grasp it firmly and attempt to move it out of position while holding your bike steady. Some side-to-side movement will probably occur but if your seat post shifts up and down, or your saddle feels loose, make adjustments. Also check your seat post visually to make sure you haven't exceeded the seat post extension limit line (the furthest point that the post can be safely extended upwards) has not been exceeded. This is clearly marked on the side of your seat post. Regularly remove your seat post from your frame and coat it with a thin layer of grease before re-installing it. This grease layer will help protect the post against rust and corrosion and more important prevent the post seizing in your frame. Saddle Cleaning Procedures To keep your saddle in good condition, simply wipe it down from time to time and treat it with UV-protective conditioner. Most models can be cleaned with light soap and a little clean water. Others require special cleaners designed for their specific materials.

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Shifters
See Also
Rapidfire shifter lubrication - (i.e. Shimano A20) SRAM Gripshift 3.0 'comp' Cable Replacement

Rapidfire Shifter Lubrication

This is for the Shimano A20 "rapidfire" shifter switch (on the handlebars) but a similar situation may exist for other brands/models. The shifter consists of two levers and an enclosed ratchet mechanism with pawls. If pushing on the lever fails to move the idler wheels of the derailleur (on the chain), then a likely cause is lack of lubrication. If the old lubricant gets hard, the pawls will stick. So remove the switch and then remove a cover. Push-pull the pawl that's giving trouble with a small screwdriver and watch what happens. The pawls have tiny springs that push them into contact with a lugged wheel. If a pawl fails to maintain contact with the lugged (or notched) wheel, then, if the spring isn't broken, it can be fixed by lubing the pivot point of the pawl. Work the pawl back and forth with a small screwdriver, etc. right after applying a drop or two of lube oil. When the spring freely moves the pawl into contact with the lugged wheel, it's fixed.

SRAM Gripshift 3.0 'comp' Cable Replacement

Introduction
The SRAM Gripshift 3.0 'comp' shifter is in wide use for straight handlebar bicycles, and other bikes that are known generally as mountain bikes (MTB). It is used in three-speed versions for front derailleur (FD) shifting, and exists in seven, eight and nine-speed units for rear derailleur (RD) shifting. At the time of writing they are available as spare parts, but sometimes a new cable is all that is needed. In this event the user can either buy a new shifter with the cable already fitted, or install a new cable in the old shifter. This page explains how to install a new cable. The rear shifter is supplied for two straight 1:1

Figure 1: The SRAM Gripshift Comp 3.0 (MRX in this case) as it is supplied, complete with a shift cable already fitted.

cable-pull

families,

the

SRAM Gripshift 3.0 'comp' Cable Replacement

94

family version and the Shimano-compatible 2:1 version. The Shimano-compatible version exists as three models, marked on the item as 'MRX' (7/8-speed), 'MRX Pro' (7/8/9-speed), or as 'Centera' (8/9-speed). Items without these 'MRX' or 'Centera' markings in their descriptions belong to the straight, native SRAM 1:1 family. This description applies to both families. The length of cable pulled for these two differ; a seven-speed SRAM 1:1 GripShift pulls 4.5mm of cable (for RD shift ratio of 1.1), while the Shimano-compatible MRX 7-speed version pulls just 2.9mm of cable (for RD shift ratio of 1.7). There are also low-normal (rapid-rise) versions for the Shimano-compatible rear GripShifts, where the labeling of the shifter's index numbers is reversed, compared to the conventional high-normal style. The exact cable pull of Shimano's front shifters is unclear, but since SRAM advertise their front shifters as being suitable for Shimano front shifting also, they probably belong to the 1:1 shift family, with a shift ratio of about 1.1 (one point one).

Figure 2: Note that the cable is fed through the cable stop in the cable ring before being guided through the barrel adjuster with its screw-part removed. It is then re-assembled, paying attention to the positions of parts; see Fig.3

There is little maintenance associated with such twist shifters and not much goes wrong with them, though it is true to say that they are not true indexed shifters. That is to say, it is fairly free, but not entirely free of Figure 3: Notice that on closure, the bend in the spring is aligned with the 'slack-cable' number ('7' in this case), as is the arrow on the outer grip; the same position as for its the cleanness of shifting on the part of removal. The flat extension on the outer grip thus fits above the flat part of the spring on the rider. They use click-stops inside re-assembly. the shifter, but it is still possible to twist the grip too far, so that they lack a true all-or-nothing response. They are capable of a clean shift provided that the rider concentrates a little on doing so. The SRAM GripShift 3.0 'comp' shifter is so-called because it is supplied complete with its shift cable already connected, and it is perhaps just as well, for many have difficulty in threading a new cable and resort to buying

SRAM Gripshift 3.0 'comp' Cable Replacement new units instead. Whereas some shifters take a new cable as easily as a brake lever, with a simple alignment of barrel slots, this shifter is undoubtedly more awkward, and many have remarked that they have difficulty in feeding a cable through the aperture in the outer grip, using the manufacturer's procedure. This page explains how to fit a new cable by opening the unit, as this method always gives good results.

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The Preferred Re-cabling Method

Individual bikes differ in their handlebar equipment so whereas some can leave the shifter on the bar, others may find it best to remove it entirely from the handlebar for cable threading. In this event, once the cable is free of the derailleur and the handlebar grip removed, the entire shifter can be removed by unscrewing the small hex-screw that locks it onto the handlebar. Refer to the two photographs of a typical unit on the right as you read the preferred method.

Open the shifter

Make sure that the old cable is disconnected from the drailleur's clamp. Note exactly how the cable was attached to the clamp, since it must be replaced in that way, paying attention to its exact direction of approach and the angle at which it is clamped. Pull the cable through the housings without entirely removing it from the shifter. This point is useful in allowing the user to learn the cable routing within the shifter when it is opened. Remove the bike's handlebar grip, partially or entirely, and any washer, in preparation for sliding the grip section along the handlebar. If the shifter is for a REAR DRAILLEUR then first set it to the index number that corresponds to the slackest cable. This is often the highest index but not always. If for a FRONT DRAILLEUR then the slackest is often the smallest index number. The matter is not critical since the parts are to be removed, but this makes it easier to see the routing when inside. The grip section is not screwed to the shifter's body but is a firm press-on-fit. Carefully ease off the shifter's rubber grip section outwards along the handlebar to access the internal parts. It can be removed altogether by sliding it all the way, and by depressing the plastic prongs that hold it captive. The cable will be seen to run through a hole in cable ring. It also acts as a cable stop for the cable end. Refer to figures 2 and 3. Party withdraw the cable ring, (it also will slide along the shaft), to reveal the cable channel that runs into the barrel adjuster. By this point the intended cable route should be obvious. Only when the old cable's routing is clearly understood, should the the old cable be removed.

Feed the New Cable

It is important not to cut the welded end of the cable until the cable runs are complete and the drailleur and shifter have been properly tested. Also, make sure that there is enough spare housing at the front handlebars to allow the handlebars to turn fully to each side and in addition, to allow about four more inches of length for any future rework. Be sure to use only a cable that is sold and marked clearly as intended for gear shifting. The cable need not be fed though the outer grip but instead it should be fed through the hole in the cable stop of the cable wheel. See figure 2. First remove the adjustable part of the barrel adjuster by unscrewing it completely; this makes the cable easier to feed. Then bend the last centimeter or so of the cable in a gentle curve to help it negotiate the turn, and feed the end down the cable channel that leads into the barrel adjuster. When doing so arrange the direction of the pre-bent end so that it best feeds through the barrel transition. When the cable is through the barrel then pull up the slack, and remember to thread the adjustable part of the barrel adjuster onto the cable. Replace the cable wheel so that the top-V of the spring is adjacent to the slackest index number, and draw up any slack so that the cable end is in the cable stop and the cable runs in the channel. See figure 3.

SRAM Gripshift 3.0 'comp' Cable Replacement Replace the outer grip with its pointer at the slackest index number, being careful to maintain the position of the cable wheel as it is done, and make sure that the cable stays in its channel as the grip is closed. Test the shifter for smooth operation in both directions before feeding the cable through the housings for reconnection to the drailleur. Refer to Set the Cable Tension [1] for notes on tensioning the cable and adjusting the derailleur. Note that when the housings are in place, the ferrule that terminates the shift housing must not bind in the end of the barrel-adjuster when it is turned to make adjustments. In the event that new housings are to be run at the same time the page Cables and Housings [2] might be of some help.

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Other Thoughts
Whereas it would seem possible to use the old cable to pull through a new cable, attaching the two cables well enough to do so has proved difficult. Perhaps somebody will devise such a method in the future. Some fine day, a manufacturer will design such a shifter that is programmable. That is, one that allows the cable-pull for any single shift to be chosen with a dial. In this way, the shifter could be used to match any cog-set to any derailleur provided that the number of gears was the same. Alas, I do not know of such a thing.

External Links
The SRAM 3.0 Twist Shifter [3]: SRAM descriptive literature SRAM Technical Docs for the GripShift 3.0 'comp' [4]: The manufacturer's technical details for the Gripshift 3.0 'comp' in pdf.

References
[1] [2] [3] [4] http:/ / en. wikibooks. org/ wiki/ Bicycles/ Maintenance_and_Repair/ Derailleurs/ Rear_Derailleur_Adjustment#Set_the_Cable_Tension http:/ / en. wikibooks. org/ wiki/ Bicycles/ Maintenance_and_Repair/ Cables_and_Housings http:/ / www. sram. com/ sram/ mountain/ products/ sram-30-twist-shifter http:/ / www. sram. com/ sites/ default/ files/ techdocs/ SL_3Comp_MRXComp_Ins_2_03_0. pdf

Suspension

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Suspension
Suspension on a bike is extremely helpful when on dirt tracks or up in the mountains. I would recommend a mountain bike with only front suspension as full suspension will slow you down too much with the weight.

Front suspension lubrication

It is best to go to the webpage of your fork's manufacturer and look there for specific information regarding your model and type of suspension fork. If you don't want too much hassle, rather take your bicycle to qualified bicycle mechanic.

Tools and Supplies

Basic Tools
Tools every cyclist should consider having: Allen wrenches (2-8mm) Chain tool Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead) Open and/or box wrenches (8, 9, 10, and 15mm are the most common for bike use) Tire levers Pump Puncture repair kit Cyclists traveling long distances may wish to carry these tools with them. Alternately, they may wish to carry a multi-tool.

A selection of bicycle tools. In red, a crimping tool; in blue, a master-link plier; in black, cable (and housing) cutters, and a chain breaking tool.

Intermediate Tools
Tools for cyclists with more of an interest in bicycle repair: Pedal wrench Cone wrenches An appropriately sized spoke wrench Chain whip Crank puller Cable cutter Hammer Headset wrench

Tools and Supplies T25 torx wrench Cassette tool Truing jig Wheel dishing gauge Chain wear indicator Repair stand Though not essential, a stand to support the bicycle is very useful. A Black and Decker Workmate or similar does a fairly good job. The bicycle is turned upside down and held in the jaws of the Workmate. Cheap Workmate imitations don't have a wide base, so the original device with the wide legs is handy to prevent toppling. This is used especially for adjusting A bicycle multi-tool. They do not replace the convenience of conventional hand tools, but can be carried on the person and contain the items that are of most use in a breakdown the gears or for fixing punctures, situation. when the wheels need to be removed. It is also handy for any jobs involving removing the chain or working on the gears, since it brings the workspace up off the ground, hence the repairer does not need to crouch. A car-mounted bicycle rack can be used as a repair for some activities, particularly derailleur adjustments.

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Professional Tools
Tools for cyclists who are prepared to fix anything that may go wrong on a bicycle: Bottom bracket tapping and facing tool Bottom bracket tool Crown race setting tool Headset cup remover Headset press Starnut driver Head tube facer/reamer

Supplies
Degreaser Grease Oil Penetrating oil Thread locking compound Tire patch compound Tire patches Ti Prep Cable ends to prevent cables from fraying.

Pedal Wrench

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Pedal Wrench
A standard "pedal wrench" is an open-ended wrench designed to be thin enough to fit the narrow wrench flats (gripping surface) typical to pedals. A quality pedal wrench will be long enough (and preferably with angled openings) to provide significant leverage, and durable enough to allow repeated application of such force. Pedal wrench flats are typically 15mm in size. 9/16" (~14.3mm) is somewhat common on older pedals. 17mm and other sizes have been used, but you aren't very likely to encounter them. (A "cone wrench" is thinner and shorter than a pedal wrench, and unable to provide appropriate durability or leverage for use on pedals. A standard open-end wrench (such as found on one end of a combination wrench) will sometimes fit on the flats, but is unlikely to provide proper leverage, while being likely to spread at the tips, ruining the wrench and possibly the flats.) Pedal wrenches are also available for pedals with 6mm or 8mm internal hex ("Allen wrench") fittings in the end of the spindle, accessed from the back of the crank arm, through the pedal hole. A significant portion of modern pedals provide only this fitting, with no traditional wrench flats. These pedals wrenches differ from standard "Allen wrenches" primarily in that they provide longer and more comfortable handles, which is important to allow application of needed leverage. In the U.S., there are two diameters (sizes) of pedal spindle (axle) threads which you are likely to encounter: 1/2" and 9/16". The first is generally used on bikes with a one piece crank, which will normally be an inexpensive or older bike. The second will usually be found on bicycles with two or three piece cranks, which includes many current multi-speed bicycles and higher quality older bikes. There are other pedal thread sizes, such as 14mm (French), but you are quite unlikely to encounter them in the U.S. WARNING Left-hand pedals are reverse threaded. (That is, you turn clockwise to loosen, counterclockwise to tighten. The Wright brothers introduced this to prevent pedals from unscrewing on their own.) Make very sure it's not crossthreaded, you are turning the correct direction, using the correct pedal, and use grease! (If any of the threads are stainless steel or titanium, it would likely be better to use an appropriate "anti-sieze" compound instead of grease.) Pedals should be properly tight, 26 ft-lbs being a generic (not perfect) torque specification. (Rotational force equivalent to 26 pounds on the end of a foot long lever (the wrench). 52lbs on a 6" lever. Etc.)

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Wheels and Tires

See Also
Fixing a flat (AKA a puncture) Inflating Tires Truing a wheel (adjusting rims so that they don't appear to wobble as the wheels spin)

Fixing a flat
This page explains how to repair punctures in bicycle inner tubes, and gives some advice as to the most likely causes. In addition, there are notes peculiar to the use of tube sealants. The basic parts of interest are these: Tires are the rubber outer parts that contact the road's surface. The rubber part is called cladding, and it covers the internal structure of the tire. The cladding has a tread, smooth or patterned, depending on its use. The edges that fit into the wheel rims have wires within the cladding called beading or beads, and various fibres run between the beads to give strength within the cladding. Although tubeless bicycle tires exist, they are still quite rare on pushbikes, so this page deals only with tires having inner-tubes. Inner-tubes are the inflatable parts between the tire and the metal parts of the wheel. They are invisible apart from their valves that protrude through the wheel-rims. There are three valve types in use; Schrader valves, Presta valves, and the lesser used Dunlop valves. Refer to the adjacent image for examples. Rim-linings protect the bottom of the inner-tube. The ends of the spokes enter the rims, and this lining in the rim-well covers them so that the tube is not damaged. Anti-puncture linings protect the top of the inner-tube. Some high-end tires have protection built-in, but most tires

The Schrader valve; all of these have removable cores.

The Presta valve; This valve's core cannot be removed but Schwalbe and Bontrager valves have removable ones.

Fixing a flat have none. As accessories, they can be easily added between the tire and the inner-tube. They prevent most punctures from thorns, glass, flints, and other sharp objects that contact the running surface of the tire, though they can rub on the tubes and be the cause of punctures in their own right. Self-sealing tubes. These are tubes with a clotting fluid inside, (Slime). They automatically seal punctures as and when they develop. They can be bought with the fluid in them or for tubes with Shrader valves the fluid can be added separately. A flat tire or puncture is most often caused by glass, thorns, flints or nails when they cut through the outer rubber tread of the tire and damage the inner tube. These deflations are usually quick, at least when the object is removed. Although this is the most obvious way to get a flat tire there are other ways too. Consider these: Internal abrasion on metal parts. If the spoke ends are not covered by the rim-tape properly, then this might happen. Other possibilities include a rubbing valve stem, or a bare edge wire in the rubber parts. Inspect the inside of the tire for these and for old inclusions that are sometimes missed. Also, make sure that the valve stem is straight in the rim opening. Rough edges from tube liners or worn internal surfaces in tires. Tube liners have been reported to cause punctures, and this author has experienced a slow puncture at the free end of a liner in a two month old tube. When a tire's cladding is frayed or holed, it can rub on the tube and cause damage. Tires can sometimes be made good with an internal patch or boot; this is a specially made patch or one improvised by adding a loosely fitted section of old inner tube over the inflated one at the site of the repeated abrasion. Recurrent movement of the tube. This happens mostly when tires are soft. The tires flatten or bottom-out on encountering bumps and form double faults or snake-bites in the tire. Tires inflated to near their maximum have fewest of these. Incorrect seating of the tube. If the tube is not seated well before inflating the tire, it is exposed to unusual stresses that lead to single faults called pinches. When inflating tires, first add a little air to the tube then press both sides of the tire around the whole perimeter to check that no tube rubber will be trapped. Rough handling of the tube. Some outer tires leak fluid when they are punctured, as do tubes with built-in puncture repair fluids. These cause the tube to become glued to the inside of the tire. If the user does not know this and pulls the tube too hard when removing it, a crescent shaped weakness in the rubber results. These areas usually become punctures, often after only a few days. Expect binding of slimed tubes when removing them and prise any sticky sections apart carefully. Manufacturing faults. These happen sometimes though it is difficult to tell these from other punctures. If such a fault is obvious then return it for a replacement at the store where it was bought. Commonly available tubes have a thickness of about 0.9mm though racing tubes are thinner; some downhill tubes are are made up to 2mm thick. The thicker tubes are slower to produce pinches and snakebites though they have a greater rotational mass, (heavy pedalling), and in any case are rarely stocked by bike shops. A series of recurrent punctures, where there seems to one every other day suggests that either the user is at fault in not properly clearing the cause of punctures, or that a long series of pinches and snakebites are just starting to break through. Replace the tube, check the state of the inside tire, or perhaps install a tube sealant. Valve leakage: Some valve cores can develop slow leaks when the fibres of tube sealants settle within them, and not all valve cores can be removed for cleaning. If a valve is not positioned squarely where it protrudes from the rim of the wheel, then the rubber will be stressed at that point and a puncture is likely to develop.

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Replace or Repair?
It is undoubtedly easier to change a tube for a new one than it is to find the puncture in the original. For this reason many riders carry both puncture repair materials and a new tube when they travel for any great distance. When on the road it is sometimes difficult to find the point on an inner tube that is punctured. If it is a slow puncture it might be possible to pump some air into the tube, perhaps more than once, enough to reach home or a more convenient place to do the work. If is it a quick deflation, then a repair or replacement becomes necessary. When an object penetrates a tire it is best not to remove it immediately if it is the only thing that keeps air in the system. Instead, use the remaining air to get the bike home before removing it. If the tires are fitted with self-sealing fluids it might be that the puncture will have been fixed already and that the tire just needs to be inflated. A puncturing object should be removed from such a tire only when the part with the inclusion has been rotated to the six-o'clock position; this allows the internal sealant to fully reach the puncture. A different method is needed for slow-to-seal sidewall pinches; allow the fluid to pond at the bottom of the tire then tilt the wheel, slowly rotating it, so that the fluid can reach the internal sidewalls. If the tire is not self-sealing, and must be repaired rather than replaced, then the remainder of this page will explain how.

The Basic Tools

This section lists the basic requirements for tube repair. The primary items are these: A pump that fits your valves. Adaptors too for some pumps. Puncture patches. The kind that need glue or the ones that are pre-glued. Rubber vulcanising solution. This is the glue that sticks rubber together. It is not needed for some kinds of patches. You also need a pin to puncture the top of the tube. A small piece of fine oil paper or sandpaper. A pen that can make marks on rubber, or a wax crayon. Users please comment on what is best. I have found that a pen with 'metallic silver' ink works very well for marking inner tubes. Tire levers You need at least two of these; plastic or metal. Some repair kits include these. A talcum block This is included in some puncture kits with a scraper. Also useful are these: Wrenches . If the bike has nutted axles instead of quick-release skewers, you'll need some tools to remove the nuts so you can take the wheel off, e.g. "ring spanner" [1] or some other type of wrench. Some bicycles require two wrenches. Try out your tools before riding to be sure that they are the right ones to carry. Hex wrenches You might need to release the brakes to get the wheel off. Valve core removal tools. These are needed only for tubes with removable valve cores, but are useful when self-sealing fluids have clogged the valves, or the cores have become loose. Removable Presta valve cores such as those of Schwalbe and Bontrager have flats on them that can be turned with pliers. A spare new inner-tube; in case all else fails.

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The Repair Procedure

Examine the flat tire carefully to find any sharp item that may be responsible. If a nail, thorn, shard of glass, or a flint is found in the outer tire then mark the rubber of the outer tire with a wax crayon or suitable pen so that the location is easily found. Continue to check the tire in case there are more. Some punctures of inner-tubes also cause damage to the fabric of the outer tire, so look for any potential problems such as a bulge, that suggests a torn carcass, or for exposed carcass cord. If such damage is excessive then it may cause repeated punctures to inner tubes. At this time the method to correct such damage involves the surfacing of the inside of the tire with a so-called boot; a pre-glued patch that keeps the fibres clear of the tube. A piece of an old inner tube can also be used as a temporary fix, if loosely wrapped around the tube in the location of the damage. This latter fix suggests that it might be a good idea to carry an old piece of inner tube in your repair kit. At this time there is no rubber-based filler for cuts in outer tire cladding, so water ingress is likely. If there is no clear cause of the puncture and the location remains obscure, or if it is a slow puncture, then the wheel will need to be removed to get proper access to the inner tube. Methods are given below that include both wheel removal and repair with the wheel in place.

Remove the wheel?

Wheel in place Most punctures need the wheel removed, but if you are sure that you know where the hole is, you can do the repair with the wheel still on the bike. This method is popular on bikes that need wrenches to remove the wheels, and for rear wheels, even when they are of the quick-release type. However, if the front wheel is of the quick-release type, you will usually find it more comfortable to remove it anyway. The sequence for an on-the-bike repair is just: Prop up the bike in a stable position against a wall, fence, or use the bike stand. Move the punctured part of the wheel to a convenient angle where it is easiest to work. Deflate the tire. Remove one bead of the tire from the rim using tire levers as necessary, then gently pull out the section of tube with the puncture. Correct the problem, then re-inflate the tire. The methods for doing so are described in the sections below, though readers should ignore the parts that do not apply to their situations. Wheel Removed Set the bike in an upright position against a wall or fence, and because the bike will become unstable when the wheels are removed, the frame might need to be secured. Some risk scuffing the paintwork and turn the bike upside down for wheel removal. Remove the wheel from the frame. On some bikes, you need to spread or detach the brakes to do this, though deflation of the tire first will usually make it possible. If your bike has Quick release wheels, remove the wheel by loosening and unscrewing the quick-release bolts (skewers). If your wheel is attached to the frame by ordinary nuts, undo them with a ring spanner (wrench). If you have to take off the back wheel, it is usually a bit more complicated, because you need to get the wheel past the chain. If your bike has multiple gears Derailleur gears, change into the very top (smallest) rear and front gears to slacken the chain as much as possible. This makes it easier to get the wheel off.

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Remove the Inner Tube

If the tire is not fully deflated, open the valve and let the rest of the air out, as any residual air will make it difficult to get the tire off and the tube out. If you have Schrader valves then remove the plastic cap and press the center-pin in the middle of the valve. If you have Presta valves, remove the plastic cap, undo the metal locking screw all the way to its end, then press the end of the valve to release the air. Later, Using a tire lever to free the bead of the tire. during patching, the Presta valve can be prevented from refilling again, if necessary, by re-tightening the metal locking screw; no such procedure is needed for the Schrader since it has an internal spring. With the tire deflated, insert the smooth end of a tire lever under the bead of the tire at a position far from the valve. While doing this be certain that the inner tube is not trapped by the tire lever. The tire lever is used with the bent end facing inward so that it can be hooked onto the spoke to keep it positioned. With Progressive use of two tire levers with one locked onto a spoke. it so positioned, insert another tire lever about four inches or so from the first, in the same way. Continue moving and inserting the tire levers until one bead of the tire is free of the rim. In the case of wide tires this task is fairly easy but for slim tires another tire lever may be useful. Remove the inner tube very gently, whether it is just a local section or the whole tube. Always anticipate that the tube is sticking to the inside of the tire, and that wrenching it will cause a stretch-weakness. If the tube seems stuck, then use extra care in separating it from the tire, perhaps softening any glued-up tube sealant with some water before easing the two apart. Be careful too, with the valve when it is removed from its rim, and remember to first remove the locking screw on the rim if the valve is of the Presta type.

Find the Puncture

If you intend repairing the tube without removing the wheel, the location of the puncture will be already known, but otherwise the puncture still needs found. Remove any penetrating objects, and carefully inspect the inside of the tire, visually and by hand contact to make sure that there are no remaining causes of punctures. A fast leak in the tube can be found by inflating the tube and listening for the escaping air. Another method is to dampen a hand, then detect the cooling effect of the leak by feeling around the tube. Sometimes a small hole is visible, especially near a stretch mark on the tube, or in a place that was sticking to the inside of the tire. Another likely place is at the free end of a tire liner. If the leak is still not found then submerge the inflated tube in a basin or a sink to look for air bubbles. During this process, it helps if the tube is folded and compressed with the hands to aggravate the leak. Use a ball point pen, felt marker, or the chalk supplied with your puncture repair kit to mark an X on the location of the puncture. Make the X somewhat wider than the patch diameter. This will enable you to centre the patch over the hole.

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Repair the Tube

In the area of the puncture, lightly roughen the surface of the tube with the sandpaper to expose clean rubber for the bonding process. Rubber-to-rubber patches make continuous bonds that extend though the glue layer. Although the stresses on tube patches are fairly low, there are nonetheless optimal conditions for success: Surfaces must be clean, dry, flat, and oil-free. This assures a good connection. The glue layer must be thin. Thin layers are strong and airtight and bonding is fast. The bonding must be undisturbed. Escaping air or movement will weaken it. The best patches are pressed while they set. Press the parts together.
The relative sizes of the patch, glue and sanded areas.

Make sure that the tube is completely deflated before applying a patch as escaping air might spoil the effort; Presta valves can be locked if need be, to prevent their re-filling. There are different kinds of patches in use, and each kind is accompanied by instructions of its own. A few of these are mentioned below. Pre-glued rubber patches with foil backings usually require that a thin film of glue be applied to the tube, slightly larger than the intended patch, and left until tacky. Then the backing is removed and the patch is stuck firmly onto the puncture. To avoid handling the glued surface, expose one corner of the patch first and apply it to the tube, then withdraw the remainder of the backing while completing the connection. Some have a handling film that can be left in place. If too much glue has been used, be sure to press the parts together for an extended period before use; hours rather than minutes. Recently, thin clear-film patches have been made available. These do not need a priming layer of glue, and are pre-glued. After surface preparation, these are transferred to the tube directly, using the progressive removal of the backing as described above. Like other methods, they depend on a clean, dry, oil-free, flat surface for the greatest success. They are perhaps the easiest to use, and do not need a separate glue supply. Conventional rubber patches need a thin priming layer for the tube and also for the patch, then when tacky, the patch is made. After making the patch scrape some of the talcum block onto any visible glue to prevent sticking. The bond of the patch strengthens with time. Although a perfect patch can be used almost immediately, if there is no real hurry, leave the patch to set as long as possible before inflation. The most difficult patch to make is one located near a ridge in the rubber; the ridge spoils the airtight connection, and ridges are hard to remove or make flat enough, even with sandpaper. Sealant-filled tubes can repair such punctures without difficulty.

Refit the Tube

Before the replacement of the inner tube, make sure that the causes of the puncture have been removed. In addition, run fingers around the inside of the tire to find any rough spots that could cause damage to the tube; if found, they can be fitted with a boot, a durable seal that goes over the rough bits of the inner tire, or a loose piece of old inner tube around that section of the tube itself. Check that the rim tape, (liner), covers the spoke ends and clean any leaked sealant from the inner tire with a damp cloth. Some tires have arrows on the sidewalls to indicate which way round the tire tread is to be aligned; make sure that this is right. When all is well, add a little air to the tube to give it some shape, and fit it into the tire. Take care in feeding the valve stem through the rim cutout.

Fixing a flat Starting at the section with the valve, work around the wheel, pushing one bead of the tire onto the rim, using your hands only. If you use a tyre lever it is difficult to avoid trapping the tube between the rim and the tyre. Make sure also that the valve is straight at the end of this stage, and if it is not then gently straighten it by shifting the tube's position on the rim; not by pulling on the valve. Repeat the process to set the second bead of the tire onto the rim following the same procedure as for the first. Re-check the straightness of the valve stem and make any corrections before proceeding beyond this stage. Work around the tire, pressing both sides toward the centre of the rim. If this is easily done then it is clear that the tube is not trapped at any point. Inflate the tire and install it on the bike, paying attention to the inflation limits marked on the tire's sidewall.

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Valve Problems
Any inner tube can be checked for leaks by first inflating it, and submerging it in water. Telltale air bubbles will seen emerging from the site of the leak. This process can be made more effective by forcing sections of the tire between the hands to increase the leakage. A slow leak can sometimes be caused by the valve itself. Sometimes a leak can be seen in a valve by wetting its various parts with a soapy solution and looking for bubbles. To try to fix a leaking Schrader valve, deflate the tire, unscrew the valve body with a keyed valve cap or valve tool, and Finding a slow leak: squeeze the tire in water to find the leak. This image shows a examine the seat or rubber sealing ring for Dunlop valve. cuts or nicks, dust, lint, or fibers that prevent the valve from closing fully. Likewise check the valve seat and the bore of the valve stem. Clean if necessary. The valve body may be replaced. If no spares exist, an emergency fix can be had by inflating the tire with the valve sealed with silicon rubber, caulk, or cured epoxy resin. Obviously the tube must be discarded after such a process. If the Presta valves cannot be disassembled, then tubes with leaking valves must be replaced. Some Presta valves, for example, those made by Schwalbe and those of Bontrager have removable cores, but most do not. Such valves can be recognised since they have flat sections on them to allow slackening and tightening of the cores with a valve removal tool. Internal tube sealants can block both valve stems and cores. However, stems are easily cleared with a thin object after the cores are removed, and sealant can be removed from the cores by washing them in water.

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Self Sealing Tires

Sealants will seal most small punctures in tires up to about one eighth of an inch in size. The product (Slime), is already in some tubes bought from bike shops, but can be poured into existing tubes, provided that they have removable valve cores. There are a few points peculiar to the use of tires with internal sealants. New tires with sealant: When a tube with sealant is first installed, rotate the wheel quickly several times, occasionally operating the brake, to fully spread the product. Parking position for the wheels: Because valves might become clogged with sealant when the bike is stationary for any length of time, the wheels should be routinely set to a position that allows the solution to drain from the valve. The position that does this best is either the five o'clock or seven o'clock positions. See the adjacent diagram.

Inflating sealed tires: When the tires are being inflated there is a significant airflow. To avoid any unnecessary clotting of the sealant, position the valves as for parking, in the five o'clock or seven o'clock positions.

Sealed Tire Positioning: When the bike is parked or during tire inflation, rotate the valve to the five or seven-o'clock positions. Remove penetrating objects only when they are at the six-o'clock position.

Clogged valves: Despite best efforts, and sometimes at the point of purchase, the valve core or the valve stem will be blocked. For this reason it is always best to use tubes with removable cores; these can be rinsed in water to clean them, or the stems can be unblocked with a thin object. A valve removal tool is useful. Removing puncturing objects: Before removing a penetrating object from a sealed tire, first rotate the wheel to the six-o'clock position to give maximum exposure to the sealant pool. This will minimise the air loss before the puncture is sealed. Slow puncture repair: Sidewall punctures, snakebites and pinches are sometimes slow to heal. This is because the airflow is low and the conventional rotation speed might be excessive. To make sure that slow punctures are fixed, first allow the sealant to pool at the bottom of the tire, then tilt the wheel and slowly rotate it so that the sidewall has full access to the sealant. Repeat for the other sidewall. Patching a sealed tube: Sealant leaked into a tire can be removed with a wet cloth. Punctures too big for the sealant to handle can be patched in the usual way, but the patch will fail unless all traces of sealant are first removed from the surface. During the sealing of punctures, a small amount of sealant can cause sticking of the tube to the inside of the tire. When such tubes are being removed, try to anticipate this so that the tube is not weakened by the inevitable stretching. Rather than tugging the tube, consider using water to soften the gluing effect.

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See Also
Inflating tires

References
[1] http:/ / www. diydata. com/ tool/ spanner/ spanner. htm

Truing a bicycle wheel

Overview
A bicycle wheel consists of a central hub and a round rim, joined by a number of spokes. Spokes radiate from the hub to the rim, where they are anchored in a screw-thread attachment called a nipple. By tightening and loosening the nipples, it is possible to bring the wheel back into round (vertical true) or remove a side to side wobble (lateral true). Spokes may be arranged in a variety of patterns, of which three-cross, four-cross and radial are the most common. The pattern affects the strength, weight and characteristics of the wheel but is not particularly relevant to the process of truing.

Tools Needed
To build or to maintain a spoked wheel, a spoke wrench is necessary. The flat-to-flat dimensions of a typical spoke nipple are too small to fit any commonly-available open-end wrench. Any good bicycle shop will, however, stock a selection of spoke wrenches, with price and quality being proportional. A spoke 'twiddler', or nipple driver, is a tool that may be useful in the course of assembling a new wheel from its component parts - hub, spokes, and rim. It isn't necessary - especially if you aren't building a wheel - but it can save some time. Similar to a screwdriver, but with an off-set blade that rotates freely in the handle, it is used on the slotted outer face of the nipple - which resembles a slotted screw. A spoke 'twiddler' allows for rapid assembly of the wheel - or installation of a nipple on a single spoke - and is designed to self-limit the extent to which a nipple can be threaded onto a spoke. A spoke wrench is used to bring tension to the spokes, and is applied to the square part of the nipple that protrudes inward at the rim. Unlike the 'twiddler', the spoke wrench is designed to turn the nipple when the spoke is under tension. This difference is what makes the spoke wrench essential. A truing stand is a purpose-built stand into which a wheel (rim, spokes, and hub, with axle) is installed during wheel-building, wheel repair, or wheel maintenance. A truing stand is very useful - possibly essential - for making hand-built wheels. Effectively, it is a rugged, precision-made jig for holding the axle of the wheel solidly in place. By extension, the rim thus has a steady reference in the axle in the hub held in the truing stand. The rim is, therefore, also found in relation to a caliper, or set of calipers, built into the truing stand, and against which checks are made for radial and lateral true (read 'perfection') during the course of building or adjusting a wheel. For extreme accuracy in measuring true, an optional dial indicator may be fitted to the truing stand, and a separate tensiometer may be kept to hand to test for proper tension on all the spokes (tension-balancing). Instructions for creating an inexpensive, but very accurate, truing stand are here [1]. A dishing tool is used to measure the extent to which the axle juts out past the rim. Since a true wheel has the plane of the rim centered laterally between the points on the axle at which the axle is fixed to the frame, the offset of the rim from that anchor point on one side of the wheel should be identical to the corresponding offset on the other side. A dishing tool is used as a comparator: the offset on one side is measured using the tool, that setting is 'stored' in the

Truing a bicycle wheel tool, and the tool is applied to the other side of the wheel for purposes of comparison; the deviation of the second side's offset from that of the first's indicates the direction in which, and the extent to which, the rim needs to be moved to make the wheel true. However, a dishing tool is not strictly necessary if you have a good truing stand: if it's understood that a true wheel (abstracting from the particularities of the hub and the spokes) is symmetrical (i.e. the rim itself is, in some sense, 'centered' on the axle) then you can use the truing stand's caliper (or calipers). and an occasional flipping of the wheel in the stand, to serve the same function as a dishing tool.

109

Tools, Punting
In most cases, especially when truing as maintenance on a wheel that has already been built, checking the tension on the spokes by ensuring that they all make the same tone when "pinged" with a fingernail will work fine. Checking the dish is also unnecessary on minor repairs, as most good truing stands will be able to give an accurate idea of how close the wheel is to centered, though it is probably a good idea to take the wheel out and re-settle it in the stand to double check. It's necessary to measure the distance if you are truing a wheel that is meant to have an offset, but this is very rare. In a situation where a stand is not available, the brake calipers on a bicycle can be used to measure true while the wheel is still attached, but this is less than ideal. Also, if no other option is available, a small adjustable wrench can be used instead of a spoke wrench or key, but extra care should be taken not to strip the nipples. A glass cutter made by Richards has one opening small enough that it can be enlarged slightly to make a passable 0 spoke wrench - or a 1 or 2, if that's what you need. If a rim has been 'pringled', or 'potato-chipped', into a saddle shape, by a lateral blow, it will be difficult to straighten by spoke tensioning alone - in fact, it is probably impossible to overcome severe rim warping this way. Often, however, it is possible to restore the wheel to a nearly-true state, even if it seems hopelessly warped. The procedure that follows should be applied as soon as possible after the trauma; leaving the wheel in it warped state for more than a few days will likely cause the wheel to cold-set - meaning it will retain the new shape in which it is left, and probably will have to be replaced. In order to effect the following quickie repair, you must have a properly inflated tube and tire still on the rim, and the rim itself should only be generally out of shape, with no damage to the rim wall itself. To wit: standing with your feet shoulder-width apart, with both hands, grip the wheel firmly by the rim and rubber at the point directly opposite the point on the circumference that is most obviously bent away from the principle plane of the wheel; bend slightly at the waist and position the point of the tire opposite on the ground in front of you, with the wheel at an angle of 45 degrees to the ground (possibly greater, depending on the denomination of the tire), and the bent part heading earthward; raise that point off the ground a few inches and let it fall again, ensuring that in the next step, only the tire - and no part of the rim - is going to strike the ground; without straightening at the waist, or bending over further, raise the wheel off the ground to about head or chest height, then forcibly bring the wheel down in such a way as to strike the ground sharply with the inflated tube and tire at the point opposite your grip; the rim should pop back to very nearly true. You can't undo damage done by striking the rim on the ground, so plan carefully, and rehearse mentally before committing to this repair. If the quickie fix above has improved matters, it's usually possible to improve the situation further with the usual techniques required of truing or maintaining a wheel. In the event that the above procedure doesn't bring the rim back to at least a rideable state, it may be necessary to replace the rim or the entire wheel. Note, though, that a rim can often be straightened, at least to some extent, by placing the rim (with appropriately loosened spokes) between two rigid objects (e.g. a pair of closely-spaced pipes, or between a door and its cross-wise bar-like handle) and, using a prying action, creeping up on the desired degree of 'flat'. Don't bend the rim more than necessary, work iteratively, check frequently on your progress, and be aware that you may need to overshoot your target slightly to allow for the tendency of metals to spring back from bending.

Truing a bicycle wheel It should be noted that repairing local rim damage with pliers or even a hammer and anvil is never advised - because less dramatic, more effective, methods are available which will not cause even superficial damage to the rim wall the all-important braking surface in most cases. Instead of pliers neat, repair a flairing of the rim by sandwiching the rim between two thin, very flat pieces of metal (e.g. two cone wrenches) and placing this in the jaws of channel-lock pliers. An alternative method for repairing rim flairing is to use blocks of wood as both anvil - below the rim - and hammer - above the rim. If it seems necessary to use a hammer, don't strike the rim directly with the hammer's face; lay a strip of aluminum or brass over the area of the rim to be repaired, and strike there. Aluminum cans - ubiquitous and easily cut with scissors or even a pocket knife - are indispensable in bicycle repair.

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Truing the Wheel

First, remove the wheel from the bike and remove the tire and tube before placing it in the truing stand. Adjust the arm and caliper on the stand so that the caliper is just shy of touching both sides of the wheel. Now, spin the wheel and slowly close the stand's calipers until they scrape against a spot on the wheel. Once you've found a spot where you are out of lateral true, tighten the spoke or spokes on the side opposite the bump, and loosen the ones that are pulling it out of true. Be patient while doing this - you shouldn't be going more than a quarter turn at a time while truing like this. If the spokes are giving resistance, try over turning slightly, and turning back to where you intended. After you've gone through several passes like this, you should check the vertical true of the wheel to make sure that you haven't put it out of round. Re-adjust the arm and caliper of the stand so that the calipers are together and just underneath the rim. Spin the wheel, and this time adjust the arm until the wheel begins to scrape. While adjusting for vertical true, you should tighten the spoke at the center of the hump, and tighten the spokes to the sides one half as much each. Because these spokes will be on opposite sides of the wheel, this will ensure that you don't put the wheel very much out of lateral true. If the hump is between two spokes, tighten them equally. Adjusting the spokes in one place will affect another section of the wheel, somewhat like squeezing a balloon. After this is done, you should check for lateral true and even tension, retruing for both lateral and vertical true if the wheel is out. If the wheel is properly trued and tensioned, you should stress test the wheel by placing it on one side and pressing down on it fairly firmly. You should repeat this going around the wheel, in order to be sure that the spokes settle into position with the spokes that they cross now and not while the wheel is being ridden. This can also put the wheel out of true again, and this should be checked. A full, comprehensive discussion of bicycle wheel building and truing is found in Jobst Brandt's book The Bicycle Wheel (ISBN 0960723668).

External links
[2] - Sheldon Brown's page on bicycle wheels, wheel building and truing

References
[1] http:/ / www. chc-3. com/ pub/ wheel_stand. htm [2] http:/ / sheldonbrown. com/ wheels/ index. html

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File:Kusuma bike large.jpg Source: http://en.wikibooks.org/w/index.php?title=File:Kusuma_bike_large.jpg License: GNU Free Documentation License Contributors: Fajro, Imoni, 1 anonymous edits File:Jersey Town Criterium 2010 recumbent 059.jpg Source: http://en.wikibooks.org/w/index.php?title=File:Jersey_Town_Criterium_2010_recumbent_059.jpg License: Public Domain Contributors: Man vyi File:Bicycle diagram-en.svg Source: http://en.wikibooks.org/w/index.php?title=File:Bicycle_diagram-en.svg License: Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 Contributors: Al2 image:Group of bicycles.JPG Source: http://en.wikibooks.org/w/index.php?title=File:Group_of_bicycles.JPG License: Creative Commons Attribution-Sharealike 2.5 Contributors: Cicero, Maurits90, Onderwijsgek, Paulbe, Vunz Image:br_cupconebb.jpg Source: http://en.wikibooks.org/w/index.php?title=File:Br_cupconebb.jpg License: Public Domain Contributors: Original uploader was Thewinch at en.wikibooks Image:br_cartridgebb.jpg Source: http://en.wikibooks.org/w/index.php?title=File:Br_cartridgebb.jpg License: Public Domain Contributors: Original uploader was Thewinch at en.wikibooks File:Bicycle centre pull brakes.jpg Source: http://en.wikibooks.org/w/index.php?title=File:Bicycle_centre_pull_brakes.jpg License: Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported Contributors: keithonearth Image:Labeled brake set mono 2.jpg Source: http://en.wikibooks.org/w/index.php?title=File:Labeled_brake_set_mono_2.jpg License: Creative Commons Zero Contributors: User:Armchair image:Labeled Brake Lever Mono 2.jpg Source: http://en.wikibooks.org/w/index.php?title=File:Labeled_Brake_Lever_Mono_2.jpg License: Creative Commons Zero Contributors: Armchair Image:Block Alignment Drawing 4.jpg Source: http://en.wikibooks.org/w/index.php?title=File:Block_Alignment_Drawing_4.jpg License: Public Domain Contributors: Ron Braidwood (Hyundai) Image:Brake Drawing 3.jpg Source: http://en.wikibooks.org/w/index.php?title=File:Brake_Drawing_3.jpg License: Public Domain Contributors: Ron Braidwood (Hyundai) Image:Brake Block Parts.jpg Source: http://en.wikibooks.org/w/index.php?title=File:Brake_Block_Parts.jpg License: Public Domain Contributors: Ron Braidwood (Hyundai) image:Sram 50 front vbrake.jpg Source: http://en.wikibooks.org/w/index.php?title=File:Sram_50_front_vbrake.jpg License: Creative Commons Attribution-Sharealike 2.5 Contributors: Piotr Tysarczyk image:Rear Derailleur.JPG Source: http://en.wikibooks.org/w/index.php?title=File:Rear_Derailleur.JPG License: Public Domain Contributors: Original uploader was Yoleus at en.wikibooks image:Bowden.jpg Source: http://en.wikibooks.org/w/index.php?title=File:Bowden.jpg License: Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported Contributors: Baran Ivo image:Bowdeterp.jpg Source: http://en.wikibooks.org/w/index.php?title=File:Bowdeterp.jpg License: Creative Commons Attribution-Sharealike 3.0 Contributors: Dantor image:bicycle cable ends.jpg Source: http://en.wikibooks.org/w/index.php?title=File:Bicycle_cable_ends.jpg License: Creative Commons Attribution-Sharealike 3.0 Contributors: User:Armchair image:Universal_Brake_Cable_Ends_2.jpg Source: http://en.wikibooks.org/w/index.php?title=File:Universal_Brake_Cable_Ends_2.jpg License: Creative Commons Attribution-Sharealike 3.0 Contributors: User:Armchair image:Bicycle Brake Barrel Adjuster.JPG Source: http://en.wikibooks.org/w/index.php?title=File:Bicycle_Brake_Barrel_Adjuster.JPG License: Creative Commons Attribution-Sharealike 3.0 Contributors: User:Armchair image:Bicycle Derailleur Barrel Adjuster.JPG Source: http://en.wikibooks.org/w/index.php?title=File:Bicycle_Derailleur_Barrel_Adjuster.JPG License: Creative Commons Attribution-Sharealike 3.0 Contributors: User:Armchair image:Bicycle Frame Cable Stop 1.JPG Source: http://en.wikibooks.org/w/index.php?title=File:Bicycle_Frame_Cable_Stop_1.JPG License: Creative Commons Attribution-Sharealike 3.0 Contributors: User:Armchair image:Cycle chic II.jpg Source: http://en.wikibooks.org/w/index.php?title=File:Cycle_chic_II.jpg License: Creative Commons Attribution 2.0 Contributors: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jenny-pics/ File:Shifter barrel adjuster 2.JPG Source: http://en.wikibooks.org/w/index.php?title=File:Shifter_barrel_adjuster_2.JPG License: Creative Commons Attribution-Sharealike 3.0 Contributors: User:Armchair File:Bicycle cable cap.JPG Source: http://en.wikibooks.org/w/index.php?title=File:Bicycle_cable_cap.JPG License: Creative Commons Attribution-Sharealike 3.0 Contributors: User:Armchair image:2011-02-11-fahrraddetail-by-RalfR-23.jpg Source: http://en.wikibooks.org/w/index.php?title=File:2011-02-11-fahrraddetail-by-RalfR-23.jpg License: unknown Contributors: Ralf Roletschek (talk) - 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