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Coates Sewing and
Dress Making Manual
COATES & COMPANY
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Designed for the trade and now sold in leading Dry Goods Stores everywhere. invisible. lias hooks and eyes. greatly improve appearance garment. SI. not bust measurement. 75c. Money. Bray. sealed to insure cleanliness. and the Professional Dressmaker. of thoroughly shrunken linen canvas reinforced with hair-cloth and felt.^ DRESSMAKING SPECIALTIES Without Shoulder Form Long ci loulder Ready] cms Made Pitied "Waist Lining EAL.00 (CSS) Eton front.00. proof. seamless belt. for short coats. 75 cents. boned with hasted seams ahove. guaranteed collar supports. $3.open front or hack. A loose-fitting net lining for light. on new principle. fills in usual hollows around overlapping padded points for shoulders. "G" Co. D— "GREANET" InvisibleV&isi Foundaiion ] E— Perfect rust F— Very SilkCovered armhole. pliable. (1) front for long coat. Carefully manufactured of best materials for correct tailoring of garments in prevailing styles. has Collar Support at If you cannotobtain GREAN SPECIALTIES We supply you dealer and send you will your dealer's. New York Page 1 . 15 cents a pair. white or black. 00. You cannot make anyone of these essentials for anywhere near the price. (new). has hooks and eyes. boned. very helpful in altering or reinforcing fronts. 15 cents a pair. Black or white. washable. silk *l DO. 3 for 10 cents. B— Produce of any shoulder effect desired. silk Corsica. or nlack percaline. clever pad. or lace waists on high. white your waist. write us. Work and Worry almost finished lining for tight-fitting waists. HEAVILY COVERED WITH PURE SILK FLOSS. shaped. PRACTICAL HELPS FOR THE HOME or Made / ..50 to $4. Order by exact size of Linolawn. back. Write Dept. cotton. direct or through a reliable a catalogue oj other dressmaking helps. ready for draping. Grean Shoulder Form and Pad 327-329 East 34th Street. 5 for 15 cents. 35 and 50 cents. A— Perfected. in transparent envelopes. if Money you are not satisfied. 50 cents to $1. Use one or all and fit Coat Fronls \ Save Time. chiffon. C— Tailor made. nor after hours of tiring effort obtain the perfect they insure..
47. Emblems and Monograms — Eyelets — —To and Eyelet Embroidery 14 16 16 16 16 17 17 18 54.—Ruffles 26. ..— Long and Short Stitch 20. Ohio CONTENTS 1.— Cable Stitch 10.- 61.IttHtntfittfltt —loral Beginners' Voices Carefully Built and Trained lira.— PLAIN AND FANCY STITCHES. (£. Lesson 1 .— INTRODUCTION 2.— Rolled 53. 26.— Piping 40.'.'. 2. 50.— Tucks and Pleats 55. -WORKING INSTRUCTIONS. ".— Couch Stitch 1 1. 27.— Seed Stitch 1 5..'. 27 28 28 28 29 Copyright 1912 by Lydia Trattles Coates Page 2 .— Felled Seam — Bound Seam — Strap Seam 45.—Satin Stitch (French broidery) 8 37.. 62..— Cross Stitch 18. Sewing on Lace or Embroid58.— Catch Stitch 12.— Chain Stitch 9.— Slant 6.— Shirring 56.— Damask Stitch 16. 52. 8 8 9 10 10 10 11 11 11 43. EmIS. — Facings — Gathering Hem 26 26 26 26 27 27 22.—TO HOLD THE GOODS 3. Chevrons.— Fagot Stitch 13.— Solid Embroidery 21. 57. 14. 32. . 49. 31. 4. 34. 23. Lesson 29.— Punch Work 16.— Braiding 28.— Welt Seam — Lapped Seam — French Seam — Hemming —To Hem Corners — Damask Hem 46. 4. 60.— Embroidery Scallops. and Overhanding 7 7.'.— Button Hole Stitch 25. 44.— Double Folds 38.. Cleveland. 35.— Blanket Stitch 24. 48. 5. Stays and Collar — Putting Supports — Marking of Linen and Underwear — Embroidery Designs in in . 41.- 12 13 13 13 — Cording — Seams 42.- — Sewing on Buttons — Loops — Darning — Stoting — Patching — Overhand Patch" — Bands and Folds . 59. .— Feather Stitch 19. Make Buttonholes 20 — ery Embroidery — Setting on Lace or and Eyes — Sewing Hooks 27.— Milliner's Fold 39. — Knot —Running Stitch — Basting — Backstitch — Overcasting Stitch 6 6 7 7 7 33.— Outline Stitch 8..— French Knots 14. GUjrato Nutnttan IpII Eaat 541 13TB East mtlf fctrwt COATES SEWING AND DRESS MAKING MANUAL Published by Coates Advertising Agency. . 36. Page 21 21 21 . 22 22 23 24 24 24 24 24 24 24 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 51. 3. Page 5 6 30.— Hem Stitch 17.
82..— LAUNDERING 3 88 91 93 86 86 87 93 92 94 Page . ness 72- 90. Lesson 97.— Making of Gowns 92. 82 83 83 84 85 85 . SHRINKING ING.— FITTING AND ALTERATIONS.— MILADY'S WORDROBE (A) — Corsets (B)— Sanitary Belts (C) — Sanitary Skirt Protectors. Cleveland and Graduate of School of Expression. 64. 16. — Lesson — Fitting and Alterations. 86.— Coat Sleeve 73.Inatruflton Expression Literature Interpretation Pantomime Harmonic Training Art of Play Writing and Criticism iFlomtrp Hartlja itaaett (Swr^r) Graduate of Harroff School of Expression..— Girl's -Gowns 104. Lesson " " 102. 93. 66.— Children's Underwear Outfit. 80.— Shirt Waist Sleeves 71.— Tailored Collars 68.— CUTTING. (A) — The Well Groomed Woman. 110. 85. 83. 79. President Bell Doan 1369-R 9608 Hough Avenue CONTENTS 5.— Girl's School Dress 103.— NECESSARY (A) MAKING ACCESSORIES (B)—Threads (C)— Sewing Thread (D) (E) SEWING AND Page DRESS30 30 30 31 313431 33 — Sewing Machine (F)— Linings (G)— Patterns — Embroidery Thread Hooks and Eyes (H)— Tape (I)— Dress (J) 35 35 Shields 39- 36 37 —Dress Form —Dress Trimmings 6. 89. — AND 48 48 49 MATERNITY OUTFIT. — Making of Dinner Gowns.— INFANT'S OUTFIT Lesson — Making the Infant's " 107. and Shrinking 13. (B) — Scientific Beauty Culture 5811.— Aprons — — Lingerie Waists — Housekeeping Gowns — Evening and Dinner Gowns. 8. Curry.5410. —The Young Lady's Dresses — Maternity Outfit Wardrobe 9.— SCHOOL Lesson " " 14 101.- —Jackets 76 76 78 79 80 81 81 PRESS50 50 51- — Sponging -Pressing 98.—THE WELL GROOMED WOMAN... —Boning 38 40 41 — Shirt Waist Supporter — Rain Coat and Waterproof Garments Lesson — Corset Covers — Drawers " — Chemise " 81.— Shirt Waists 91. Boston Dr. Page 64 65 66 66 67 67 67 68 68 68 69 70 71 71 84. — Street. 99..— Sleeves 70. 75.— Pockets Traveling Skirts and Busi- 46 47 47 96. (D)— Millinery (E) — Lingerie 76. — Children's 105.— DYEING 18. 100.— High Collars 67. 65.—Turn Down Collars 69. Cuffs and Lap Closings 72. 88. — Maternity Corsets —Maternity Gowns — Maternity Skirts GIRLS' SUPPLIES. 72 74 75 75 7.— SPONGING. Cutting 53 —CHILDREN'S CLOTHES. Costumes and Coats 77- 95. — Children's 136.— Night Gowns — Combination Undergarments.. 57 58 60 61 61 62 63 64 64 —Rompers Coats 15. .— Dress 12. FOR 42 42 43 44 45 45 43- Kimonas 87. 94. 77.— Petticoats — Skirts and Underwear Without Plackets — Dressing Sacques (F) (G) " 78.— COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS SPECIFIC WORK Lesson — Plackets —Belts and Bands —Yoke and Peplums (K) (L) 63.— CLEANING 17. Lesson Lesson 74.
Hall.. Wm. ' .. even if all else has failed. Oxydonor will do it. 337 Old Arcade INDEX TO ADVERTISERS Page Adair. C. Berthe (Corsets) 86 19 53 58 51 II May Co. Restaurant Co. (Ice Cream) Universal Dry Cleansing Co Victor Insect Exterminating Co 43 75 & Florence Martha (Expression) Frederick Piano Co Fries & Schuele Fulton. (Naiad Dress Shield) Continental Casualty Co Creme de Luxe Cummer Products Co. E. (Sewing Silk) Belding Bros. (Wrinkle Eradicators) 64 26 61 64 5 84 64 52 80 40 56 56 33 2 5 31 8 34 25. F. (Morlene) Korach. Stomach Trouble. (Manicuring and Chiropody). (Dust Bright) 59 63 10 Page Hawley Restaurant Henke Furniture Co Hexter's Lining Store Ideal Faucet Syringe Co Interstate Drug Co. (Woven Names) Reis Initial Co. (Peacock Carlton Monks. by all means secure one of Dr.OXYDONOR "This wonderful little appliance. Review Co. Abbie E. No. (Osteopathic Physician) Morehouse Co Noteman. Pictoral Pictorial J. (Fashion Book) B. (Sanitary Protectors) American Textile Mfg. L. N. W. 4 P. Nervousness. if you want pREE— Books on Health.. & (Shino) (Dress Form) Co. & C. M. 29 21 34 23 12 17 7 Arbor Tea Shop Art Pleating Shoppe Baird Bros... B. Mandarin. Sanche for the purpose of healing the sick. Cleveland Credit Clothing Co Cleveland Dress Trimming Co College of Science (Acme) Connelly Co. 30. R. Mrs.. F. Margaret B. & & Sons Co. Maud De Long (Dermatologist) Smith Carriage & Auto Co Smith Chemical Co. (Dunham's Specific) Long. Thus writes Are you suffering from Rheumatism. Van Gorder (Havanco Mending Tissue) Haserot Co. Pioneer Mfg. Co. invented by Dr.. Co. A. (Ganesh Toilet Preparation) A. you will be restored to health. (Public Stenographer). The C. but as and setting of the sun. health. E. Miss L. Ohio. (Senora Coffee) 24 22 24 Wm. Mrs. & Co Lawson School of Music Lickes Drug Co. (Book and Art Exchange). 76.. Sanche's Oxydonor's and by the use of it as directed. Co. (Embroidery Scallops) Reis Initial Co. Co. 31.. (Katharos) Ellsworth Public Hand Laundry Reis Initial Co. H. Joseph. or are any of your family suffering from disease? If so. (Funeral Director). G.. Stroud. (Embroidery Silk) Belding Bros. performs which border on miracles. The process is natural and very simple. Co. Co.. Rosenblum Clothing Co Sanar Remedy Co (Attorneys at Law) Shop of Kimonas and Art Laces Skalla. H. Ohio Office Furniture Co 91 5 Oxydonar Parrish. 13. (Cravenette) 60 88 9 Dye) Dowd. (Elwako Laundry Aid) Euclid Cafetiere (Lunch Club) Farr. Co. ("Hair Vim") Snow Flake Laundry Shaver. David (Shirtwaist Belts) Battle Creek Sanitarium Food Co Belding Bros. Young Women's Zoa Phora Co Christian 57. C. etc. (Tape) Sons Co. (Sewing Machine Supplies) Studio (Art Work) Cedar Cleaning Works Chandler. (Linings) Belle Vernon Dairy Co Berner's Art Store Boston Dry Goods Co B. & C. Mrs. Chester (Vocal Instruction). infallible as the daily rising Investigate. Spinal Trouble. 68 9 72 41 46 54 37 11 Review Co. Diabetes.. (Real Estate) Conover. Phone.. 55. E. (Sleeve Initials) Reis Initial Co. . T. Mrs.. (Dentist) Bryson Co. Dr. (Piano Instruction) 58 20 60 93 42 73 3 ' Co G. 64 38 66 32 36 62 83 96 Page 4 . (Sanitary Belt). Co. Co. (Embroidery Initials) 74 50 39 65 94 14 29 28 18 19 71 Richardson Silk Facial College Elwako Mfg. Frank (Dentist) Electra Pure Water Co. 6 44 60 47 1 Vacuum 20 55 89 13 77 78 54 35 45 48 55 Grean Arm Pad Grean Fitted Belt Griffith Warner Hat Shoppe Warren Featherbone Co White Sewing Machine Co Wilson Dress Hook Co Wright.. Mfg. (Domestic Cleaner) Swalley's Credit Store Telling Co. Pneumatic Form Co. Raynolds Co. & P. T.. cures. 95. E. Ellen C. Association 7. (Embroidery Catalog). Grean Shoulder Form and Pad Grean Dress Making Specialties Grean Long Coat Front Foundation Grean Short Coat Front Foundation Grean's "Greanet" Grean Fitted Waist Lining Grean Coat Collars Fassett.. Wright. (Monarch Polish) Basch. Miller. 69 63 16 76 91 15 8. & Co. The May. * Call or Send 10 Cents for Postage... Priestley. (Energine Shoe Dressing) Devoe." Edward Rigby of Lisbon. Main 730 Ohio Agency.
trimmings. without as complete a wardrobe as they would like to have or pay out more money than they feel that they should spare to get . E. Quigley Desks Chairs Armor-Clad Steel Furniture Cuspidors and other Office Furniture Murphy & Gunlocke Miss L. Many women go garments made or are forced to wear unbecoming. 1145 Prospect Ave. has been written on the subject of sewing and many of our best magazines have given us invaluable information. For this reason this plain. S. LAXATIVE BRAN BISCUITS "The samples you gave do the work ine were delicious" BATTLE CREEK SANITARIUM FOOD Page 5 CO. INTRODUCTION. THE OHIO OFFICE Chandler Central 332 1-K Main 1368 FURNITURE Bell. simple and comprehensible set of Sewing and Dress Making Lessons have been compiled without waste of words or unnecessary repetitions. L.. but many women do not preserve these periodicals or have not the time to wade through all the other literature and sometimes a labyrinth of instructions to find out the system of properly cutting out and putting together and finishing a dress or suit or piece of underwear or perhaps doing up a piece of household sewing. Cleveland. as the means of presenting to the world her ideal of thought. Thus dressmaking will become an Art and a Science and a pleasure instead of a nerveracking. CO. We have made the system as brief and as easy as possible and by following faithfully the instructions and always turning to the lessons designated you will find that you have a reliable guide to the making of every essential garment for your wardrobe. non-individual clothes simply because they do not know exactly how to cut and fit and make and finish the articles of their apparel and without complete instructions before them do not feel like risking the time and the material in experimenting.. laboritheir — ous piece of drudgery. Ohio 429 The Arcade North 1450 I. etc. using herself as the model and her materials.Public Stenographer Duplicating Filing Devices Tables.. 111-112 Old Arcade . and hiding any possible defects of her contour or carriage will work as an artist. Sewing is an art and the woman who clothes herself with an eye to bringing out the possibilities of her grace and beauty and best points of individuality. On the other hand if they know just how to go ahead and have each step made plain for them to follow they could add many beautiful garments to To be sure much that is very helpful their wardrobe at a very small cost.
but learn and practice holding and doing your work properly and sitting erect. . Always hold the goods in a position so the stitches are taken toward you. CHAPTER PLAIN.—Thread AND ORNAMENTAL STITCHES. (3) (4) Lesson Hemstitch.oOOCNO''. needle with proper sized thread and hold in Wind thread once over forefinger of right hand and pull tightly. Always take stitch under the hem or seam to hide knot but in open space where this is not possible fasten thread by taking two or three stitches over each other or — KNOT.->. gathering. TO HOLD THE GOODS. Try Our Superior Service Today. . and do not form the bad habit of pinning the work to your skirts and then humping over to do it or winding seams over the forefinger of your left hand. -. The Lesson 2.. hemming of fragile garments. by backstitching (Lesson 4). F. leaving the right hand Never hold the work so as to crush and free with which to do the stitches. (1) (2) Slant Stitch. crumble it nor yet so loosely that the stitches are taken unevenly. Sit up straight. materials. FREDERICK PIANO CO.$200 Sound Proof Demonstrating Parlors Experienced Salesmen. French seams.CHAPTER III. Basting Stitch. Lesson 5. 1612 EUCLID AVENUE Page 6 . Lesson Stitch. hold the work firmly in the left hand. left hand. W. Knots should never be visible in any sewing except in basting. . The Proof of the Pudding is in the Eating The Proof of "Frederick Service" In the Trying is Every Record Every Victrola $15.. FANCY Lesson 1. Running 2. 3.— stitches through the cloth should It will be of exact and equal length.— RUNNING STITCH. be in constant use for seams on light etc. IV. Lesson 17.
practical and artistic manner. handing are to have needle point at exact depth and be exact distance between each stitch. From under side draw needle through cloth exact depth to be overcasted or overhanded and take stitch over and through twice to hold firmly. Point the needle toward the left shoulder and pass it through a few folds of the material and a few threads of the fold. The half back stitch is taken half way back between the space of where the thread is drawn through and where the stitch leaves off on the upper side. CIk Cawson School of music and Other Tine 10507 Superior Avenue Cleveland.— OVERCASTING AND OVERHANDING. then take a short back stitch back on the upper side and a long stitch forward on the under side. progressive.— Begin at the right and work toward the left. Hold your goods with the edges which you are sewing on toward you. Insert the needle under the fold. Voice Culture of both the singing and speaking voice a specialty. Lesson 3. This is one of the most particular lessons in sewing as every stitch must be exactly the same in height and distance apart.—The Lesson 5.Sewing Millinery Apply to the Cookery Dining Room Service Dietetics Dressmaking Tailoring Shirt Waist Young Women's Christian Association Prospect Avenue and East 18th Cleveland. —BASTING. Begin next stitch exactly where last stitch left off on upper side of sewing (see cut 1). using two or three stitches to hold (never knot under a fold). (See cut 1.— BACKSTITCH. varying the distance between stitches according to the quality and thickness The two important features of perfect overcasting or overof the material. Lesson 4. Making Trade Class Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister Cooking fundamental principle of all good fitting and adjusting lies in the proper basting. Ohio West Side Branch Franyin and West 32nd Home Nursing Home Making Chafing Dish St.— SLANT STITCH. Beginners or Advanced Pupils Private or Class Lessons Day or Evening Jim Best Instruction Moderate Prices Page 7 . Ohio All branches of Music and Dramatic Art taught in a thorough. Lay your cloth perfectly in place and then fasten by taking even or uneven running stitches through the material as in cut.— Baste material with edges exactly even or if single trim smooth and even. Lesson 6.—Take a few running stitches (see Lesson 2). page 6). Use Slant Stitch (see Lesson 5).
thread under thumb form loop. Lesson 9. New Process Embroidery Silk and every conceivable shade.— CABLE STITCH. guaranus. instead of at Page 8 . take a short stitch through the material. If and we will BELDING BROS.American STITCH. in eight different twists. holding your work with the needle pointing toward you and always keeping the thread on the same needle. of the previous stitch. bringing needle through one stitch distance ahead and proceed as before. Belding's teed fast dve. 528 Broadway STITCH.— OUTLINE T TTVT/^O French .— CHAIN the top of your design and always your needle to point a towards needle through material. except that drawn through at the side.Have You Tried T^T lriLLlllVJO ICECREAM? Lesson 7.— Start have left New York at City Lesson 8. ing stitch and draw rather yet not enough to wrinkle the goods. your dealer does not carry "Belding's. & CO.— The the cable as the chain stitch needle is made almost exactly Lesson 8). side of the Take each stitch back two threads on the precedtightly. half stitch is (see way back the center.— Take even stitches. hold down Draw you." write tell you where it can be obtained.
many DOILIES. Page 9 . Etc. N. Are all illustrated. by mail. SKIRT PANELS. such as Eyelet. Y. New York.Lesson 10. SUITS. or The May Co. COSTUMES. —COUCH of STITCH. SHIRT WAISTS. Send 20 cents for a sample of this work begun on special and one large needles. Solid and Outline Including numerous designs for the popular Braid Work and the Punched Embroidery. The "New" Pictorial Review Embroidery Catalog is filled with ideas and suggestions of interest to any It is woman who em- broiders or does fancy work. Pictorial Fully explained and illustrated in linen. either the These may be obtained Transfer or Perforated Patterns Purchase a copy today at any newsdealer. BELTS. Satin. 15 cents THE PICTORIAL REVIEW COMPANY THE PICTORIAL REVIEW BUILDING 222 West 39th Street. Hold the threads in place with your left hand and fasten them to the material with small stitches on the right side. Seed. —'Couching thread at is made by apart laying straight lines equal distances across the design. having the stitches in each row fall between those of the opposite row. Underin not forgetting the exquisite designs for wear. HAND BAGS. Add 15 cents for The New Pictorial Review Embroidery Catalog. profusely illustrated and contains designs for all the various kinds of embroideries. and Infants' and Children's Wear. New The New of the Review Embroidery Catalog. Price 10 cents.
Paints for china 10c and 15c each. also teach work. insert the to as many threads as are desired (always the same number). china decorating and firing. High Grade Stationery. Anniversary.Watt. and draw the needle through to the right of the group and take a short stitch in the fold (See cut No. Come in 2357 -W. pastel or crayon.— Draw the required number of threads Hold the hem and turn hem and baste exactly below last thread drawn. We insure both Men and Women. Wedding.— HEMSTITCHING.— SEED STITCH. Schofield Bldg. laid draw through in the number of threads have been opposite direction at even distances apart another set of threads. 1. group from three toward you.— Fasten up the thread on right side.— DAMASK needle across STITCH. water-color. W.and .. unexpected piece of bad luck comes. wrong side and bring the through pattern to carrying When the be worked. 358 The Arcade SICKNESS OR AN ACCIDENT MAY COME TOMORROW ACT TODAY — Page 11 .—The back seed stitch is made by taking small stitches covering the leaf or petals of a design or in monogram. pictures in Book ana Art exchange 31 Taylor Arcade Monogram Work.) 16. Cleveland. Dainty Cards. Be positively and safely provided for by the largest Health and Accident Insurance Company in the world. and ask us to tell you today and let us explain or call up CENTRAL WHAT FIVE CENTS PER DAY WILL DO FOR YOU.Art We do stencil Work oil. your cash income does not stop just when you most need it. THE ELLEN and C. Lesson 15. (See Lesson 11. page 6. Birthday. O. Lesson Protect -Yourself . Lesson 14.Breadwinner Then when the unforseen. Congratulations for Birth Carlton Studio 1430 Announcements and other special occasions.E. LONG teach or paint to order. stitches The rows must be evenly spaced and the each row falling midway between those of the rows at either side of them. CONTINENTAL CASUALTY CO. needle under and through the hem. for exact position of needle).the . FRAMING A SPECIALTY.Mgr. of the hem. At the place where the threads cross catch to thread desired down with the cross stitch.
Lesson 17. its effectiveness has been thoroughly proven. They should know about if he wants your trade. and it often produces dangerous condiaffecting the eyes. Thick Neck or Goitre by Tumors and for the sake of a better appearance the Double Chin. are. no matter tions is unsightly and disagreeable. Tumors. we will say that in every dangerous and disagree92% of all cases.— The cross stitch simply bringing one stitch across the angle of the other. If he fails send us SI. so it is always best to get rid of any enlargements about the throat whether they be Goitre. have relatives or friends who it. Ohio Page . to say the least. GOITRE will disappear when treated with MORLENE Also Thick Neck. the breathing or the blood flow to and from the brain. Double Chin. Enlarged Joints. therefore we want every person afflicted with Goitre and similar troubles to know that there is a remedy which is really a success in If 92% of all cases. to avoid will cure any case of Goitre. 50 and we will promptly deliver a full size package containing a sufficient quantity for an ordinary treatment of 30 days.— CROSS is STITCH. Morlene is not an experiment. possible misrepresentation case Morlene relieves the able conditions accompanying Goitre and gives entire satisfaction to how bad or how long standing. you are not tell them afflicted but of Morlene. Your druggist can supply you MANUFACTURED ONLY BY The Interstate Drug Company 12 Cleveland. Inflammations The above statement has been so thoroughly proven that we are almost tempted to say Morlene However.
It is the method endorsed by the Government experts of all nations. manufacturers of Rotary machines have had a world of trouble with the thread tangling in the shuttle race. Happily the White experts came to the rescue with this remarkable device THREAD CAST-OFF THE White Rotary Thread machine — SANITATION HEALTH HAPPINESS Our method is of fumigation and insect extermination absolutely the most up-to-date and efficient method in use. Our experts Our methods are used & B.—LONG AND SHORT STITCH — stitch Follow exact instructions as slant 5).— Mark thread along the line chalk or run a colored to be followed. CLEVELAND. thread stitch down directly on downward to left the of the mark or mark line and hold with thumb and take short or line and repeat taking stitch. —then Boats. are at your service.— Is Page 13 made by using is the in. exclusively on the C. with pencil or Lesson 18. Churches and Stores of all germs. long and short stitch in successive rows until the design entirely filled . Hotels. 426 PROSPECT Both Phones Victor Insect 351 The Arcade Exterminating Co. rs^J Lesson 20. Talk about trouble why. Let us hear from you. etc. Penetrates through plastering. ONLY No powder dust left — No poison— No bad odors. etc. bring needle through to right side. insects. (See cut).— the the only is equipped with a Cast-off. and you can imagine the annoyance it has caused the operator. We rid Boats. It should be fumigated by our method once a year it will be clean and healthful. rats. It's just another instance of White superiority. upholstered furniture. bedding. hold thread take a short stitch through and to the right side of down with the mark or thumb. Warehouses. mice. is The double feather or briar stitch is made by taking two stitches to the right of one while the triple feather stitch right and three to the left. There's no time like the present to look the White over.— FEATHER tailor's STITCH— BRIAR STITCH. first on the right then on the left. White Sewing Machine Co. and two stitches to the left. O. (see Lesson except that one stitch in is taken. one-half the dis- tance depth as the succeeding one. Knot bring thread. left line. Thread Cast-off (it's exclusively White) and the difficulty vanished as if DON'T NEGLECT YOUR HOME by magic. to say nothing of the loss of time in trying to get the machine to work right. instead made by taking three stitches to the Lesson 19.— SOLID EMBROIDERY. and recommended by the State Medical authorities as being the only absolute remedy known to Science.
shows the exact position of the needle. We will send turn our In Sizes from % inch to 10 Inches. REIS' FOUNDATION Letters and Scallops They add that much help to make your wearing apparel and household linen distinctively rich.— SATIN STITCH. silk or cotton. especially silk will add to when working mono- Block Old English — easily accomplished 2-cent by interlacing Send us your name. Underlaying and Basting difficulties eliminated.— EMBROIDERY SCALLOP STITCH. sample strips of scallops and samples of the Reis Letters in your initial. 620 Broadway. Nor will they discolor or harm the finest fabric. booklets. They are very simple. the scallops or embroidered edge vary according to the Often the depths of pattern or design to be worked and the outline must be very carefully followed. and in satin stitch is the stitch taken straight across from one edge to the other of the design or taken on a slant from one edge to the opposite edge. many other designs so much vogue at the present time. Our standing offer is as follows: "We Will Pay for Any Garment Injured Gumbac Foundations Through Washing or Re!s by Reis Ironing. desired tone of expressive charm— an indication of character— the "intangible something" of which a woman can well be proud. Draw needle through loop and repeat taking every stitch very closely together so no gap appears between the stitches.— Fasten thread by running and back stitches. New York Page 14 . If you can thread a needle you can successfully use them. a name of a dealer in your city stamp and the who would most you in re- likely handle our goods. Lesson22." 1J 4 Gumbac Scallops come in six styles— 26 patterns.— (French Embroidery)— The or Initials. page IS. we guarantee that they will retain their shape and appearance through all the washings. LEARN AX OUR EXPENSE How easily the most inexperienced sewer can create perfectly stunning effects in embroidery with the new Reis Gumbac Foundations Scallops. of embroidery their attractiveness. boilings and ironings that the article on which they are embroidered will withstand. and work over with That's all. The cut shown in Lesson 25.ed des'gns the letters. The material in their composition is of European origin. Reis Gumbac Foundations are not made of ordinary paper or even papier mache.Lesson 21. and retail at a uniform price of 10c per card of to the small sizes and S of a yard to the large. Just moisten the back and stick on. Remarkable as it may seem. new Sold at the Art Counter of Any Department Store Reis Initials. You will use the Satin Stitch in making in the Chevrons. Reis' Letters and Scallops make embroidering simply delightful with the Stamping. Take stitch through material depth desired with needle pointing downward. yards REIS FOUNDATION LETTERS Are made Script in three styles: Harmonizing colors gramrr. Hold thread under left thumb forming loop.
When your foundation is completed then embroider according to embroidery scallop is is There and there an a stitch. Lesson 22. is only Vacuum Cleaner with Full Ball-Bearings and a BaliBearing Adjustable Roller under the suction the plate for light or The DOMESTIC heavy cleaning. The old method is to buy a transfer pattern or hire the stamping done. For free demonstration phone Main 2463. cabinet built and will the only hand cleaner The DOMESTIC is with attachments for cleaning Mattresses. pleasant and easy way. old. & C. tedious and laborious manner of embroidering scallops new. Ohio . 15 STROUD CO. E. or come to our office. 510 The Arcade Page Cleveland. With these attachments you have a cleaner with every advantage of an electric machine at a little greater cost than the best Bissell Carpet Sweeper. Then you must pad your scallops with the chain stitch using a good filling cotton. or Central 8258 K. THE B. etc. Then a running stitch must be very carefully taken at the exact line desired to indicate the depth. Upholstery. H. The DOMESTIC Hand Cleaner is as powerful as the best portable electric.THE OLD WAY TO EMBROIDER SCALLOPS. is The DOMESTIC last a lifetime. D OMESTIC VACUUM C LEANER Dirt and Dust are a Constant Menace to Your Home A of large percent of our contagious dis- eases are carried into the home by reason germ laden dust.
AND Set the needle for each stitch just outside the cotton outline stitch and draw the point through the stilettoed opening or set the needle through the opening. Run a cotton thread around the outlines with very small running stitches to hold the form.— Eyelets may be round. Lesson 25. Lesson 26. begin work in the upper left-hand corner of the design. REMODELING AND REPAIRING. press down with your hand and work over with the stitch taught you in Lesson 22. oval. send it down in the first up again in the first dot of the first row and draw the thread slightly to pull the goods together.AUTOMOBILE PAINTING. F.— PUNCHED used for WORK. drawing needle through loop. Pass down needle dot of the dot of the second row. procure the necessary length of Reis Foundation Gumbac Scallops.the stiletto. L. and repeat. except that in embroidery the point of the needle is toward the edge while in buttonholeing the point of the needle is toward the cloth. Make stitches very even and rather tight and then shape perfectly with .— BLANKET STITCH. bringthe ing the point just outside the outline stitch. then punch with a stiletto. Bring up the the work.— BUTTONHOLE STITCH. TRIMMING. taking care to always have the stitches exactly the same distance apart and exactly the same height. Either manner is correct. NEAR CORNER OF EUCLID AVENUE Smith Carriage $ Auto Co. See cut of Lesson 25.— Begin by fastening thread by using running and back stitch. for exact position of needle. Then fastening your thread on the under side of the material.— Thread the long special and knot it at the eye. Proprietor THE NEW WAY TO EMBROIDER SCALLOPS. The blanket stitch is the same as the buttonhole stitch only each stitch is made instead of very close together as the buttonhole stitch is done. bring in first the first it Page 16 . This eliminates all the drudgery of stamping your design and all the filling-in work and gives a much more desirable effect than you can possibly obtain by the ordinary methods. By needle courtesy of Pictorial Review Co. Then send the needle down in the first dot of the second row and bring it up in the second dot of the first row. Hold thread under left thumb forming loop take stitch depth desired with needle pointing downward. Smith. a small distance apart.— EYELETS EYELET EMBROIDERY. To save time and energy and to insure satisfactory results with your work. All you need to do is to moisten the scallop.—The Buttonhole stitch and the Embroidery Scollop stitch are done exactly the same (see Lesson 22). 1911 Cars Remodeled with Fore Doors and Repainted to Resemble 1912 Models Telephone--East S40 1970 EAST 66TH STREET. — Lesson 24. row. Lesson 23. which can be embroidered over without any of the preliminary work explained. oblong or pointed.
Joseph Korach 1258 ^—^— & Company II.^ through the second dot of the second row. i Lesson 27. To secure the most attractive effect the braid should be sewed on the edge so that it will stand up on the material. bring up through the second dot of the first row. cord. Bring your work to us or phone and we will tell us up by either you what we can do for you. It can be developed with plain braid. suits. Braiding Ladies'. Suits. There infinite variety of beautiful designs and patterns now in vogue for is an Those braiding. (Braiding and Embroidering) W. so that the effect will be one of little squares. draw the thread a bit.li l —^— Page 17 . not having the time or the inclination to do this work for themselves can make up their garment and then have experienced braiders neatly and carefully carry out your ideas in any simple or elaborate design which you may select. you have done all of the work in one direction. most artistic and approved designs. The stitch used to sew on the braid is a short stitch on the right side of the For materials of net. Coats and Blouses the latest. Braiding is most suitable and effective for a border or a trimming for waists. these patterns for braiding must be most carefully done and the design followed exceedingly accurately in order to produce a satisfactory effect. chiffon braid or cord and a long stitch on the back. so the plainest or the most fastidious tastes can be satisfied. FOURTH STREET. CLEVELAND. serge or linen a braid or cord the color of the material should be used. gowns. bias tubing or fine embroidery or the design can be followed with the outline or chain stitch.— BRAIDING._l-Mi 1^- H I L^. or marquisette a dull silver or fine gold or soft silk cord put on with button The stamping of hole couching makes a most beautiful border or trimming. turn the naterial and repeat the stitch at right angles to the first set of stitches. Misses' Braided in and Children's Dresses. OHIO m^m j i ——— jj i . pass down through the second dot of When the second row and bring up again in the third dot of the first row. of your We also make buttons own call material in all styles. soutache. On heavy goods such as velvet. evening wraps or children's dresses and can be used on any material.
and a number of purposes which present them- and children always delight in an emblem or chevron on their arm. or crinoline or stiff lessons on embroidery for the monogram work. such as lingerie. satin stitch (see you can stamp them on paper and baste them on the goods and embroider. etc. Made in three styles-— Old English— Script— Block— sizes ^g inch to 10 inches. rons and monograms on a separate piece See of broadcloth or linen.Use Reis Foundation Letters for initials. and sew on. Chevrons and emblems are very appropriate for sailor suits. Etc. Page 18 . Sold at the needlework department of every department and dry goods store or send for our illustrated bcok on embroidering and samples in your initials. boys' suits. work bags. table covers. CHEVRONS AND EMBLEMS. will supply you with Reis Foundation Letters for any desired purpose Ask Q t the needlework department Lesson 28. household handkerchiefs.— MONOGRAMS. cutting the paper or crinoline away as soon as finOr you may embroider the chevished. chevrons and monogram foundations and selves work over them with the Lesson 21). while grown ups always appreciate their monogram neatly worked on their garments. You can either get the Reis emblems. your monograms or We have plain and suitable for fancy letters every need of embroidery linen. REIS 630 ASHABLE LETTERS •«amo r M«»OOIf)EBV BROADWAY NEW YORK The Morehouse Co.
and Six Skeins of Richardson's Mercerized Cotton Floss for BERNER'S ART STORE Arcade Building oniy 25 cents Page Cleveland 19 :: Ohio TOUR CHOICE OF TWELVE DESIGNS .— This Beautiful Pillow FREE f All we ask is that you buy 6 skeins of Grand Prize Wash Embroidery Silk Richardson's or trated lesson for ZDC and a The fully illusPillow Top and Back are absolutely FREE. This extraordinary offer is made to convince every woman of the superiority Richardson's Grand Prize Wash Embroidery Silk Why your home with attractive and not beautify effective pillows when the opportunity is offered? We will give you tire this en- Pillow Outfit including 1 Pillow Top — either oblong or square Every woman wants these attractive pillows and also knows the true value of —tinted on Aberdeen Crash. Richardson's 1 Back for Pillow 1 Grand Prize Grecian Floss On sale at Diagram Lesson arrangement of stitches — showing and color scheme.
PURE ALWAYS PURE— CONTAMINATED h°nes : N ^r t 34 6 The Electra Pure Water Co. Ohio Lesson 29. 3241-W Cleveland. First mark the exact length of buttonhole you desire. Ohio Page 20 . IS AS AS DISTILLED WATER.— TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES. NOTHING BENEFICIAL IS REMOVED by the process of purification. Springs situated in proximity to thickly populated districts are peculiarly liable to sudden contamination. in the exact place you desire it. the DIFFERENT. then run a thread around the space you intend to cut. over cast the edges then work with the button hole stitch (as per Lesson 24). which is best described as being pure until it is declared impure. The Purest Water Sold in Cleveland ( Bacterial Tests Abundantly Prove the Truth of this Statement ) THE PROCESS OF PURIFICATION necessary for the production of Katharos is the most advanced known to science. A SQUARE DEAL CWALLEY'S CREDIT STORE ^"^ 424 Euclid Ave. IS in which respect it is very unlike spring water. 2035 East 18th Street Cent. It contains enough of the minerals and salts to make it the most healthful of drinking waters. then cut straight the slit to be worked. at prices absolutely as low as at any cash store. KATHAROS HAS LIFE AND SPARKLE.— Unless you have tested your skill in making buttonholes it will be wise for you to practice until you are in a fair way to feel confidence in your ability.00 I'M THE MAN That'll Always Give You Down. TERMS— $1. None of the tonic values are lost. Pay as you can spare it. Quality. KATHAROS KATHAROS due to the liberation of gas during the electrolytic action. Boys and Children ON CREDIT HERE you'll find the NEW. Clothes of the BETTER SORT of Clothing.Clothes of Quality for Men. otherwise you may ruin your garment. but is much more palatable and tonic in its qualities. Cleveland. Women. The volume of sickness traceable to SPRINGS is of vast proportions. THE BOTTLES ARE STERILIZED and rinsed with Katharos before being filled. Distinction and Style.
Fasten your thread with the over and over stitch.— Have button hole completed first. then begin on the cross wise threads and run over and under the lengthwise threads altering the over and under stitch. Get acquainted with our stock and new things with which our store is Let us show you what beautiful pieces can be had for little money. and examine our Furniture and Floor Coverings. draw through cloth and bring thread loosely down to exact length desired. Page 21 Co. and in many instances a thread or ravelling drawn from the goods itself is preferable. When the button is securely sewed on wind the thread a few times around under the button and fasten well on the under side of the garment. such as stiff paper or thin oil-cloth. repeat three or four times or until you have thickness consistent with the weight of goods you are working on.— SEWING BUTTONS. 30th . Then begin at the bottom of the threads and insert the needle under the loops and over the thread. HAVE YOU EVER INSPECTED OUR LARGE FURNITURE STORE? It Will Pay Come You in to Do So see the filled. cor. allowing the eye of the needle to pass under first. Fasten the thread well on the under side by several over and over stitches. Place button directly over mark or pin and bring up thread through holes of the buttons. they should be basted on a flat surface. and mark either with a pin or with tailor's chalk. leaving the thread moderately loose. W. Always begin a little beyond the worn places so your stitches will hold. The Henke Furniture 3001-3021 Lorain Ave. and run your thread exactly along the lengthwise thread of the garment. The darning thread to be used depends entirely — — — on the material to be darned. but in mending most materials. LOOPS. DARNING. then fasten well on under side. continue till loop is covered. as it should match in color and quality.. Lesson 32. In mending stockings a darning ball may be used. then measure exact place button is needed.— Lesson 30. ON Lesson 31.
Black and Brown Ten Cents to the by package for . HAVANCO MENDING TISSUE The best thing for repairing bottoms of skirts and pants. not have the iron HOT. silk goods and place it between the garment and the patch. and on a rent or cut in a material which needs patching. OHIO . Remember do patches. or that can be mended much better with the Havanco Mending Tissue than with needle and thread. and cut it so the weave comes exact with the place to be mended. One For sale piece each of White. druggists. silk garments. directions Re-seating or repairing knees of boys' pants. also mending all kinds of rents in clothing. or will of the price in stamps. — Stoting. — Stoting be is used on »%&&% WTPrfiiTi?lIli-- heavy goods. and patches can be put on and repairs made on a moment's notice by adhering to the following directions: Brush leaving size it all dust from garments.. Same directions goods or other goods where part is worn thin and a patch required. If possible have your patch of the same material. send post paid upon the receipt 1382 West Ninth Street THE HALL-VAN GORDER COMPANY Page 22 CLEVELAND. Baste patch on wrong side of goods. Cut piece of the Havanco tissue the of the piece of lay a paper on cloth over for stockings. and useful for making many other kinds of repairs quickly and effectively. place piece of goods like garment under hole. the stitch to mended without darning or is A is thread from the cloth used and begun back from the rent and the back and forth in running is stitch a slanting line taken until the tear has been closed. etc. PATCHING. — There are many materials such as rain-proof clothing or kid gloves. . follow above for Garments repaired with Havanco may be washed and ironed but not Heat is the only thing that will affect it. all and press with a warm flatiron. a little larger than the hole. Lesson 34. boiled. dry goods and notion stores.— Lesson 33. On the right side cut out the worn or frayed part and make a small slit in each of the corners and turn down evenly the edges and sew down neatly on both sides of the garment.
Ackerman's Patent Ideal Faucet Syringe and Bath Spray The most wonderful improvement ever made j-i i !<v . Ohio Page 23 . the goods are heavy and not It is often washed. The operator can use a pint or a gallon without stopping and at any force desired.— OVERHAND ordinary patch right side (see PATCH. so long found inefficient and unsatisfactory. will use the lawn hose with such force as to drive everything before it. while the ordinary fountain syringe has not enough force to it to dislodge germs. a which has and when sponge in it. always ready. Can be used for everything a fountain syringe is used for. and the force of the stream can be regulated to suit the purpose for which it is used from a drop of water at a time to a pressure of 50 pounds. clumsy fountain syringe. which is controlled by a valve. It is entirely unlike the old style... if necessary. With this Ideal Faucet Syringe you can get the same results.. economical. as there is no limit as to the supply of water. It is the most simple. convenient. all that is required is to it is drop your medicine onto this Sponge in the cup. screw on cap and attach to end of rubber tube before putting on the spray and then screw on the vaginal pipe and the whole stream of water is medicated with the medicine. perfect and effective syringe ever made. except that the patch to a overhanded on the and the underside neatly cut down good seam and pressed. sanitary. y\ '. will last a life time.— Where may be used. whereas with the Ideal Faucet Syringe you can obtain any desired force.•> . the overhand patch put on the same as the is Lesson 34). in a syringe. Cleveland. — The Ideal Patent Cup Attachment. desired to use an antiseptic or sanative treatment in connection with a douche. IDEAL FAUCET SYRINGE COMPANY 9601 Cedar Avenue. in washing off dirt from the porch. You can get any desired pressure or flow of water. A lady.-..: Lesson 35. no cumbersome water bags to get out of order.
and are width and join the diagonal bias is Lesson 37. and then turn under the edges of the fold and stitch with one or two rows of stitching. 0. 4679 K Tables fnr Ladies DRINK Griffiths Restaurant 1022-1028 Prospect Avenue SENORA Always the Same CLEVELAND. On heavy goods that do not ravel or fray out to press back the edge of the seam. Ask your dealer for the W. as they make a Cut your bias strips the desired easily made. Lesson 40. the canvas is basted in and the edges of the fold fastened down with the catch stitch. — an exactly even depth under the fold. — — Cent. and stitch on either side gives a very good finish.— Cut it the bias strips twice in as wide as desired. Seams can be joined by machine stitching. Baste and sew on either by machine or by hand. the bias strip to emerge. considerably on tailored suits. FELLED SEAM.— MILLINER'S FOLD. chain running stitch. — — Lesson 38. Trim the under edge narrower than the outer. Great care must be taken that the stitches are not too fine on tailored seams.Lesson 36. or back stitch or the edge when of material that does not fray can be left raw or pinked. Lesson 42. or they may be protected in various manners. or by making the felled or French seams. Sew up the seam in any of the ordinary ways described in the preceding lesson. —PIPING.— Cut Lesson and basted N. Hold the cord so cannot become twisted and place the exact center of the fold. make a narrow turn up of the bottom edge and bring it up to cover the edge turned down. SEAMS. turn down the fold and sew neatly just below the cord. With a narrow turning fold the broad edge over the narrow edge of the seam and hem either by hand or on machine. and cutting diagonally.B. your bias bands two and one-half times the width desired. Fold over the top edge. and is an easy manner of disposing of the tailored seams. such as binding or overhanding the raw edges. — CORDING. Take your bias band twice the desired width and fold so the edges come exactly together. Good Try Our Home-like Baking QUALITY HAS BEEN OUR SUCCESS COFFEE Page 24 . 39. allowing only the edge of The piping may be lined or unlined. obtained by folding on the selvedge or straight Folds and bands are used very neat trimming. piping. When the fold is lined. 41.—A true the material with the straight edge of the top lengthwise fold exactly. Lesson — — stitch. but the stitching must be very straight and very even. — Piping is made of bias strips folded in the center. ends. & N. which is beautifully made at and ready for use. and silk thread should always be used to join the seams of a garment made of wool goods. DOUBLE FOLD.— BANDS AND FOLDS.
or after turning the edges for the hem fold toward the center. Stitch near the edge of the upper lap and again one-half inch back. & N. or W. The edges of the goods to be bound should be evenly trimmed and the binding basted on the edges. WELT SEAM. and cut out the underlying corners. and overhand the end. Hold goods toward you and turn neatly and begin at the right and sew insertion and material together with the slant stitch. Baste down then hem with slant stitch (see Lesson S). or hemstitch (see Lesson 17). being careful the stitches do not show through on the right side. Trim evenly and narrowly. turn garment and sew on wrong side taking seam of depth to entirely inclose the first seam. Cut either bias or crosswise strips and turn under both edges and stitch over a plain seam. (See Lesson 5. Lesson 49.— THE BOUND SEAM. Lesson — ROLLED the right side. Lesson 46. For the ordinary hem begin by making a narrow turning. Much time is saved however. for your hem must be turned exactly even. HEM. yet deep enough so the turning includes all the edges. STRAP SEAM. overcast using the damask hem.— TO CORNERS. or running stitch on the right side of the garment. The W. This is one of the simplest manners in which to dispose — — — — — — of a tailored seam. When finished take a moderately hot iron and press down wrong the hem on 51. leaving just room enough to catch the stitches nicely. Lesson 47. Lesson 48.— Sew the seam by machine.) side of Page 25 .— The proper material for binding the edges of seams is bias bands of silk. Hems are made by turning the edge of the material twice in any suitable depth and the fold fastened down with the slant stitch or by hemstitching or in some instances the plain running stitch. — Table It is linen can be very neatly hemmed by hem. of Turn fold as of for an ordinary Fold back the linen the crease the first the hem and with very fine stitches. Turn back the wide fold and baste down the narrow edge and stitch with one or two rows of stitching. Catch the overlap of the corners of the hem to the underlap. HEMMING.— To hem square corners.—THE FRENCH SEAM. A lap seam is as its name implies one seam lapping over another. -Make a plain seam leaving one edge wide and one edge narrow.BELLE VERNON MILK the Best Milk Lesson 43. turn under exactly as for an ordinary hem. — Is used for setting in insertion. 50. LAPPED SEAM. very simple. binding. linen or cotton. Lesson —DAMASK at HEM. when hemming can be done on the machine as it saves the measuring and basting. Lesson 45. and cut the material in the fold and hem — — HEM the bias edges. Lesson 44. Then cut a strip of heavy paper or notch a piece of card board the exact depth you desire your hem and use this paper or card board for a marker. while in others a hem is joined to a lace or embroidery insertion by what is called a roll hem. & N. binding turns itself so all you need to do is to fasten the binding on by hand or sew it down with machine.
— Ruffles may be made of straight or bias goods. Turn and sew down either with machine or with slant stitch. a piece of goods cut either across or down the weave of the goods will do. bias tape is most useful in innumerable instances. Street Dresses. Waists. The White Sewing Machine is provided with a tucker with which you can easily both regulate your tucks and the space between the tucks. Place the right side of the facing against the right side of the goods and sew firmly with machine or by running stitch. In this instance the edge of the embroidery or lace must be heavy enough to entirely cover the edge of the material of the garment. TUCKS. Always draw the ends of the threads through to the underside of the garment and tie carefully. can be done as successfully on the sewing machine as by hand and very much quicker. Maternity Dresses. And many styles of Pleat ings for Trimmings of Dresses. Lesson — GATHERING. unless you have a pleating machine of your own. & N. your goods into two or four even knot and use the simple running stitch. side pleating and sunburst pleating must be done but all a pleating establishment. Children's Dresses. In underwear the W. House Gowns. Lesson 56. or the work will not look neat. Dressing Sacques. Pleats are made the same as tucks. FACINGS. then heavy draw goods on gathering string into exact position desired. chiffon or any of If the ruffle is to be sheer materials. Where lace or embroidery must be joined in tucks sew the cloth so the seam will come in the fold of and under the tuck. made of goods without a finished edge edge must be neatly hemmed the Art Pleating Shop 438 Old Arcade Cleveland Page 26 . so it is not necessary But to make to baste in your tucks after a little practice on your machine. A first class sewing machine is provided with a tucker that can be gauged for any size tuck you desire.— Is simply from two to as many rows of gatherOn most materials it ing as desired. accordion pleating. lay a damp cloth over them and press so they will keep their fold nicely. Use a bias band. Muffs. Etc. Neckwear. at Lesson 55. lace. 52. either N.spaces. Etc. tape. B. only you must always baste down your pleats. embroidery. Embroidery or lace may be used for facing on some articles by following the suggestion of cut which is done in the same way as the ordinary facing. or on a seam. embroidery. PL E ATI N G Accordeon Pleating and Side Pleating made in the newest effects for Party Costumes. Hats.— SHIRRING.— RUFFLES. Dancing Frocks. tucks by hand you must make a marker and fold exactly on the line and — — sew down carefully by machine or with running stitch. Facing of lace or embroidery around the neck or arm hole of sleeves is sometimes put on the right side making a trimming or finish. Fancy Waists. Lesson — — straight — Lesson 54.— Divide rather make a 53.
Moth 71. where an ordinary hook or buttonhole would be placed. of the wrong side of the lace or embroidery to the edge of the right side of the hem and stitch. Cut out goods Carefully baste down hem over edge leaving enough only for a narrow hem. make a second turning and hem. either by gathering (see Lesson 52).— SEWING ON HOOKS AND EYES.— If the lace or embroidery is to be put on by hand. Lesson 59. work a ruffle of lace or embroidery may be put on with the whip stitch (see Lesson 6). dresses. waists. quick. ZOA-PHORA STOMACH The Scientific AND LIVER PILLS and Effectual Remedy for Biliousness. Headache. snap fasteners or buttons can be used. and stitch on right side. Lesson 57. Lesson 48). or the ruffle may be sewed on the right side and covered with a bias band. which we recommend for skirts. undergarments. of insertion. and if desired an edging may be sewed on either by machine The ruffle is attached to the garment or neatly overhanded (see Lesson 6). belts.— SEWING ON LACE OR EMBROIDERY. When the food is not being properly digested and the Liver refuses to work and the whole system becomes clogged with poison and you need a good. and cannot rust. The White Sewing Machine has an attachment wherewith the hemming is done and the lace or embroidery sewed on with one operation. taking pains to catch through the narrow hem on the underside. Liver Pills Stomach have been used for over half a century with most For habitual Constipation and Bowel Trouble use the ZOA-PHORA Anti-Constipation Pills.. Props. and all Disorders Arising from a Sluggish Liver and Imperfect Digestion. B. gentle cathartic fL-J^y^-* & - RememberZOA-PHORA Stomach and gratifying results.. 25 CENTS. For sale at all first-class druggists. Or the lace or embroidery may be set in by using the roll hem. PRICE. where hooks and eyes. They are flat and invisible and never slip open as To sew on. Lesson 58. sew hook so often happens with the ordinary hook and eye. See page 96 for partial list.— Baste the lace or embroidery on the right side in the exact position desired. & N. turn hollow side (see — Page 27 . put the right side of the lace to the right If the machine is to be used put the edge side of the material and overhand.— SETTING IN LACE OR EMBROIDERY. Or again the ruffle may be inserted in the hem by placing the right side of the garment and the ruffle together and turn hem back to In very fine the wrong side of the garment. On page 32. MICH. Liver Pills CO. (See Lesson 48). you will find a cut of the Wilson Dress Hook and Eye. N. or with a piece of the W. to the necessary fullness and by placing the right side of the material and ruffle together and sewing firmly. which is done exactly as overcasting. children's garments or any purpose. bias tape. ZOA-FHORA KALAMAZOO. The Wilson Dress Hook and Eye is easy to hook and unhook.
navy.— PUTTING IN STAYS AND COLLAR SUPPORTS. s accident. However.toward the cloth and the straight edge toward edge of cloth.00 for 144 $1. the hosiery. in the most elaborate gowns.. REIS' WOVEN NAMES are machine woven <>n good quality white "a m hi ic tape in either red.es for $1. is This or the Reis fully embroidered articles. light hlue Mark and can he had in several . ami will identify you in case of REIS' NAMES come in si jj. St. Men's shirts should be marked with an embroidered initial just above Linen. Lesson 61. Broadway and Bleecker ®*s NEW VCKK o^v/rv. It saves annoyance. initials plainest form the distinctive mark which The Reis foundation washable letters lends dignity to the or the Reis initial medallions should always be used. The stitch used is simply sewing over and over through the small round holes of the hook and eye. many prefer to use the feather stitch (see Lesson 18). ami are easily cut apart anil . very quickly and easily done.- Printed from Engraved Black on fine Tape: WOMANKIND no medicine will. in fact all laundered garments should be marked with the name or at least the initial of the member of the family to whom the article belongs.sewn to an i Sm Phora won't do for garment. lingerie and handkerchiefs beautifully monogrammed or with carecuff. You can get these letters or monograms in nearly any shade or style and all you need to do is to baste them on your fabrics and work over them with your embroidery cotton or silk. aprons and children's clothes. uji 100 200 Names for $1. but a more attractive way is to use the catch stitch (see Lesson 11). fleeze lined and woolen underwear. in a REIS' ENGRAVED NAMES t'anilin. which gives the inside of the boned' article a very pretty finish. JL22Z Pa ere 28 . for they are perfect and durable and will stand the boiling and ironing of the laundry without being damaged in the least. woven initials made on woven tape which can be neatly overcasted on the inside of the garment. REIS & BRO. Lesson 60.— MARKING OF LINEN UNDERWEAR. as are the ordinary hook and fastener. by procuring the Reis woven names. G.75 If your dry p><<ds store cannot take youi orders send youi order with remittance direct to us..25 for 72 Names Names Plate-. prevents loss by laundries and hotels. and sew the eye where an ordinary eye or button would have been placed. They never wear out. The Warren Feather Bone for stays or collar supports can be stitched by machine into the lining of the article to be boned. besides being a substantial stitch to hold the boning secure. as well as in the simplest. What MARK YOUR GARMENTS WITH REIS' WOVEN NAMES Vonr garments should hear your name. $2. Every garment and piece of linen in your home should be marked.25 IV arr-. The gauze.i different style letters.
navy. Price. There is no trimming or ornamentation for waists. 4th St. 630 Broadway. but all of the stitches ordinarily used will be found in this series stamping and making the garment. work a. m. in all styles.. white. However should you prefer to have the embroidery done by more experienced fingers than your own or have not the time to devote on that part of the decoration of waist or gown you will do well to take it to your local embroiderer where the work will be done by trained hands who make a specialty of lessons together with full directions for of embroidering. Served from 11 25 Cents to 2 p. The designs and stitches used will depend entirely upon the taste of the individual and the style and texture of the garment. (Braiding and Embroidering) Cleveland. m. We also make buttons of your own material. but pretty AVERYon the fad to have the Hand Regular Dinner. Our experienced embroiderers can work out in perfect effects any design you may choose for any purpose Either machine cr hand work. embroidered initials are very beautiful. pajamas. dresses or wash suits which meets the refined feminine approval more than embroidery designs. and ^-* R "IS • it 9 EMBROIDERED SHIRT INITIALS is West Third St. lavender and black. Lesson 62. CJA11 you have to do is stick them on and work over with silk or cotton. Embroidery Send or bring us that piece of Embroidery that you do not know how or have not the time to trouble to do. Clair Ave. 10c. On nearly all smart garments from the marquisettes and sheer chiffon and silks and dainty lawns to the heavier materials and all wash goods you will find at least a suggestion ranging from the pretty French knots and the simple outline and chain stitch following the simplest of patterns to the most intricate. beautiful and elaborate creations. Reis' Initials elimate all this work. requires artistic ability and much to make an attractive design. N.The Hawley Cor.— EMBROIDERY DESIGNS. Joseph Korach Both Phones 1258 Page 29 & Company W. St. green. each or 3 for 25c. (CLEVELAND Sixth City initial sleeve or pocket of shirts. ii red. G ReiS & BrOS. etc. Y. Ohio .
) 41. reliable and reputable make can be purchased. 11 Wheel (A) 40 and 41. (See page 21 — Dress Forms. NECESSARY SEWING ACCESSORIES. On the other hand do not attempt to use a coarse thread in a fine needle or a fine thread in a large needle. (See page 19— Dress Shields. (See page 18— Trimmings. cheaply made machine when for the same money or a few dollars more a first class. — Hooks and Eyes — Patterns 15 — Linings. the thread should just pass easily through the eye of the needle. Before beginning the making of a garment. A modern machine is supplied with attachments that will hem. (Basting) Thread. (Cotton) Thread. It is always a bad investment to buy an inferior. Your machine must be kept perfectly clean and well oiled and by keeping the tension adjusted just right you will not need to give it much further attention. quilt. (See pages 12 13 14 34. Botti WHITE SEWINGNo.) 36. better and quicker it will do your sewing.) 37.) 39. Chalk — Skirt Marker. made in One is of the greatest mistakes is sewing is the use of a needle that too large and thread that too coarse. or where a line of tucks or trimming is desired. but and a large spool of white basting thread and a spool of colored basting thread to use where it is not expedient to mark with a pencil or tailor's chalk.) SEIWNG MACHINE. Rotary Shuttle IX! We and "Sit-Strate" Machines. with ordinary care will last a lifetime so the greatest of caution should be used in selecting one. and ? learn how much easier. The articles usually required are: 1 2 —Cutting Scissors — Button Hole Scissors Stick 3— Yard 4 — — — 8— 9— Pins 10 — Tailor's —Tracing 5 —Tape 6 7 Line Needles Thread.Buy a Sewing Machine before you see the WHITE. 426 ProspectCO. MACHINE Avenue Phones CHAPTER XI. (Silk. (See page 20— Boning. provide yourself with a variety of sizes of cotton spool thread Be sure and Page 30 .) 38. shall be glad to show it up and let it speak for itself. see that you have the necessary accessories at hand with which to do your work. (See page 16— Stiffenings 17 — Tape. A good sewing machine (B) THREADS. DO DON'T DO WHAT Vibrator. see page 31D). gather. hemstitch and in fact do nearly everything that the human fingers can do in this line and a wise woman will keep her attachments always on hand and use them whenever possible for they will save her hours of useless labor.
not be generally known that silk is the strongest fiber known to mankind. will give to a stress. trimmings. is made from your dealer does not carry "Belding's. lustrous and beautiful effect that cannot be obtained with any of the imitations or substitutes. cloth. Great care may be used in selecting styles. no greater extravagence than to invest in a cheap worthless eye. etc. and that a yard of pure silk thread will stretch from two to three inches.DON'T GUESS you as a Sewing Machine user of the White Tension Indicator but see it for yourself. and so available only for White at the value to buyers. & CO. and yet the results will be disappointing. smooth and elastic. and we will BELDING BROS. Embroidery silk will give that rich. WHITE SEWING MACHINE BOTH PHONES (C) 426 CO. PROSPECT AVENUE EMBROIDERY THREAD. It's exclusively White. whereas a cotton or linen thread has no "give" or "stretch". is The kind of embroidery material all important. BELDING'S SEWING SILK the finest quality of raw silk. and It may will always retain its original shape. 528 Broadway NEW YORK There hook and (E) HOOKS AND EYES." write tell you where you can get it. silk will wash and wear without fading. on acproper texture. elasticity and fast color. and made in every conceivable color and shade. count of its great strength. they are always unsatisfactory and a garment not properly is — Page 31 . Be sure to drop in and see it at first opportunity. consequently. a seam sewed with silk is infinitely stronger.. if the thread is not of the Silk thread is particularly adapted for seam making. With it you can do work that can't possibly be done on any other machine. If us. requisites in dressmaking is the thread used in sewing the seams. is strong. the results to be obained will more than justify the difference in expense. and while embroidery silk more than cotton or any of the other substitutes. then you'll need the WHITE. Pure costs One of the (D) most important SEWING THREAD. and so if you are progressive and desire to do your sewing under the most advantageous conditions.
Black and White colors. 10c several garments. Outwear Tlense send.kooks FuBI-Size Card Sent V.. White) previous sample Sold at notion counters everywhere (remember the orange and black card) Large and Small sizes. . They are Wilson Dress-hooks. J His Address.. "Thank you... 10c a My Name Street Ask for Wilson Dress-hooks on all ready-to-wear . No matter how loose or tight your garment. garments Address J The Wilson Dress-hook Company 198 St. free.ClairAve.. card Wilson Dress-hooks. neatly closed and perfectly flat if you use these un ique hooks Though you can unhook them with per. oard of one dozen. N. — will fastened is ruined. Name J. So flat . — Black. Ohio hooks are sewn. its Many to of the common The brands of hooks and eyes will rust and leave marks on your garment. Page 32 .N. O. upstairs and I'll run fix it. Clair * y* ^* Town .** 198 St. Gray. and eyes. while others L-oi. best thing to do to make sure that This Embarrassment Can Never Come to You if You Use the hooks that can't "pop" open accidentally or allow the dress to gape and spread. Can not catch on trimmings. snap fasteners or buttons." women accustomed to troublesome hook-. lation to They are truly a reve- on Dress. fect ease. Cleveland.E. provided you have not previously had a free card Dress-hooks are guaranteed not to rust or crush in washing The Wilson and . Always Dress-hook Co.* invisible they never pull they do not leave the usual "bunch" which tells where other yf' Cleveland. making them invaluable on wash garments.State. the back is always smooth. 1 My er's Deal- Ave.omng.ig not go through the is laundry without pieces.'ilson i pppp H E» d Fill Out This Coupon . E. out beyond the edse and show.
and always and pleasing assortments. Shoulder Forms and Bust Forms The Ladies' Home Journal Patterns Reis Bros. is at hand. Every convenience tern. silks in large and dress things. the kind of hook and eyes. Page 33 . We Specialists in Dressmakers'' Supplies '"THE BEST DRESSED and making of their WOMEN are most often those who take the keenest interest and pleasure in the small details clothes. all the best of such are here. because we make a specialty of all the little the linings and findings.. realize the These women Each season fabrics finds here the newest of cloths. the quality of thread.— you have a brand that in will not rust and that will positively hold your garment recommend and use in our demonstrations the Wilson Dress Hook and Eye. Coat Pads. importance of the little things not only the quality and style of fabrics. which we find is always reliable and satisfactory and costs no more than any other good fastener. place. to the style book and pat- We mention: Conovers' Naiad Dress Shields Warren 's Featherbone Wilson's Hooks and Eyes £5? Embroidery Foundations Coat Fronts. Co. shields and dozen other seemingly trifling details. And. but the finish of lining.
No fabric will wear as well as a pure dye silk fabric. for the average person to wear well. you are assured of a If your garment does not require a or satin lining. & CO. In order to overcome this difficulty. effect in the lining of a coat (F) It is just as essential to it have a satisfying Silk is or jacket. you should take into consideration the HEXTER'S LINING STORE Dress Makers' Supplies and 1 Tailors' Trimmings " "Everything for your Dress but the Goods 153-155 Arcade : : Euclid Avenue Entrance Page 34 . satisfactory lining for your suit. select silk linings that will By procuring reliable. It is naturally the most beautiful of all fabrics for lining purposes. Look for and accept no substitute. very difficult. on account of the practice of adulteration or weighting. however. some of the most reliable silk manufacturers are weaving their names in the selvage of the lining as a guarantee of wear. cloak or garment. Belding's Pure silk Dye Guaranteed Satin.Belding's Pure name on the selvage. Dye Guaranteed Satin the every yard guaranteed to give satisfactory wear. as is in the exterior. 528 Broadway NEW YORK CITY LININGS. BELDING BROS.
the seams are very loosely stitched. and have it stuffed up for the purposes of having her own figure for fitting 75c and draping in the workroom. boned. but simple principle which is embodied in the Grean Waist Linings. Unless you are an experienced designer. according to sty!e. The cost of a pattern is so small and the help they give so great that you cannot afford to take chances of wasting your goods without a pattern to guide you. Dyspepsia. but above the boned portions and on the shoulders. This & 51 - 00 name Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Company.. To all those who have not tried them it seems impossible. asking them to show you their newest and most appropriate linings for the purpose which you desire.FITTED WAIST LININGS is considered one of the most important inventions of the present time. for if you do so you will take every chance of making a complete misfit of your garment. which is ready for use without having the trouble of cutting. New York weight. write us today ana we will supply you direct or give you of a reliable dealer who handles our line. Page 35 . \J XV A Digestive Tablets See ?oT 96 special offer For Indigestion. where a fitted lining is not desired the Grean Invisible Net Foundations will be most valuable to you. Sour Risings. They are made in linolawnblack. boning. fitting. 327-329 East 34th St. Belching of Gas. cutter and fitter never attempt to make even the plainest garment without a pattern. white and grey percaline. which dressmakers at home. and all Disagreeable Symptoms arising from a Disordered Stomach. Always select a pattern exactly your own size don't get one a size too large or a size too small. and you will need to be informed as to the best. and in white and black Corsica silk. They are all finished. or professional have to suffer before they attain the result which you obtain in a ready made Grean Fitted Waist Lining. as it eliminates the endless preliminary fittings. or if it is a light weight waist. but you may rest assured that the new. /A / \ ± ±J. With every Pictorial Review Pattern you will find a Cutting Guide show- ing exactly how to lay on your goods to the best advantage and how to guard against making any mistakes in cutting. Always get your pattern before buying your goods if possible. have hooks and eyes in the back or front. Nausea. you will find it easy to cut and fit and make any garment you may desire. Pain or Distressed Feeling in the Stomach. so with this Manual of Sewing and Dress Making and a Pictorial Review Pattern. Heartburn. Every person should buy one of grey percaline fitted to herself. There is also a Construction Guide. overcomes all obstacles. this affords easy ripping if a fitting is necessary and all the fitting is done at the upper part of the waist in all instances. (G) PATTERNS. putting on hooks and eyes and finishing. as new linings are constantly coming into fashion. Bloating. the If your dealer cannot supply you. much time can be saved by using the Grean Fitted Lining. quality and texture of your material and go to a reliable lining store. Be careful and purchase the exact size or exactly what your measure is around the waist and you will have a good fitting lining. by knowing exactly the — required amount to make the article in question. 25 cents per box y (^ jTV " pTTfvn l\. illustrating precisely how to put the garment together. for often you can save a yard or so of goods or save yourself from running short of material. finish it. If you are lining a waist that needs a fitted lining.
13 widths Pure Linen and wide) usefulness.— (H) It is TAPE. TRADE MARK REGISTERED Once used Always used Beware of Imitations AT ALL DEALERS A is very useful article for piping.. Wright 40 Lispenard St. showing colors. Silk. NEW YORK. finishing or It will binding seams on all materials and for fagotting. E. i in highest grade n - to 1 in. Made "W.? White and (*4 colors." Bias Seam Tape Are you taking advantage of its Cambric and Lawn. also in India Linon. and for this BIASSEAHTAPt It turns itself "W. Wm. Sample reference book free. For the waist you will need it in many instances. & Sons Co. almost impossible to make any article of wearing apparel without tape. Dept. for the support for the hooks and eyes. Mf rs . to }A in. & N.. not shrink. widths and quality of materials. for the binding around the neck and armholes and many other purposes. a necessity in the home sewing room." Bias Seam Tape INDISPENSABLE IN THE SEWING ROOM Saves half the work making a garment. wide). while on your skirts your seam must be bound. 4 widths (5-16 in. F. &N. Page 36 .
of from perspiration be sure and select a cheaper shields on the market today are anything but satisfactory and the ruined waists showing the stains just below the shields are a result of their use. On the Parisian lingerie. which nothing in the world of the kind can rival in daintiness and beauty. Bias Seam Tape. protecting your garments shield reliable When dress — so many the The Crowning Attribute of Lovely Woman is Cleanliness NAIAD DRESS SHIELD SUPREME Beauty ! IN Quality ! Cleanliness ! POSSESSES two important and exclusive features. you will see this tape neatly put on with the tiniest of slant stitch making a support just below the scallop of the embroidered edge and you will find it most satisfactory to follow their example. Narrow Bias Seam Tape means an additional wear of many months.Y. & N. 101 Franklin St. Added to these the fact that an unreliable shield will not wash and cannot be kept sanitary makes it imperative to procure a good reputable shield that can be relied upon to protect your gown or jacket. (I) DRESS SHIELDS. We use in our demonstrations and always recommend the Naiad Dress Shield. there is an odor from the rubber of the cheaper shields that is very offensive to a refined woman. At the cents. which is ready for use and turns itself so the edge is always neat and even.N. instead of facing.. tOnOVer LO. and when you have an embroidered edge to your garment as seen in Lesson 79..I!. Page 37 . stores or sample pair on receipt of 25 Tl 1 he f* T* /"* t. & N.— purpose no tape answers so well as the W. On your underwear you will need it to bind over your embroidery ruffles. And then too. f* Manufacturers. you will find that a support of the W. It does not deteriorate with age and fall to powder in the dress can be easily and quickly sterilized by immersing Guarantee with Every Pair in boiling water for a few seconds only.
for all tailors use only the Warren Feather Boning. collar-foundations. Michigan Page 38 . collar-bones. The class dress- is by far the (The Perfect Boning) for Waists. as best known and most reputable boning on the market. insist and leaded dress weights that they are u -ip^M&tt" YtMendif£u Three Oaks. first it makers and subject of boning can be quickly disposed of. Linings. giving permanent shape To bone a waist Send for requires less than 10 minutes our Instruction Booklet with attachment for machine FREE When buying waist-bones. Girdles and Collars because Stitching bone in on by machine holds the place.(J) BONING. girdles collar-sets.
Pneu Form is mounted on an adjustable standard rod which may be raised or lowered to the exact height desired. It relieves you of tiresome standing hour after hour for fittings. containing full description and prices. One Pneu Form. Write today for new illustrated booklet' "It's You. reproduce your form. jjBK fitting and holds draping it all Page 39 . serves for any number of persons by simply changing the waist lining. near NEW YORK Nothing so good for skirt And base this little box tlwi S». For waist. bust and hips with looking glass — — fidelity.. and enables you to study your own form while you work upon your own garments." Edition H-I.6th St. you do your own dressmaking or have it done at your home you should by all means provide yourself with a Dress Form. Pneumatic Form Company J. you simply inflate it inside your fitted waist lining and before you stands YOU shoulders.(K) If DRESS FORMS. skirt and dress making and fitting or for dress repairing at home. 557 Fifth Ave. but to save yourself the time and the tediousness of trying on your gowns. If you are ^eiiftxriii It's You The Wonderful Pneumatic Dress Form Sold In Many First Class Stores Pneu Form is the easiest and handiest dress form the world to manipulate. nothing can possibly take the place of Pneu Form. To make Pneu Form perfectly. It is the practical invention of a woman and consists of a nonleakable air chamber made of specially prepared m and well covered rubber cloth. not only as a means to secure correct and perfect lines and insure a well fitting garment.
$10. $2.50.00. Pictorial Review Pattcis 10c & 15c Main EAGLE STAMPS FREE with Every Purchase Floor Euclid Page 40 . Dress forms are now considered just as necessary just as indispensable to equipment of t . Euclid.e sewing room as the Sewing Machine. and YOUR VERY IMAGE in lines and proportions can be reproduced with a Hall-Borchert and Majestic GUARANTEED Perfect Fitting Dress — Form — Every style included Adjustable and Non-Adjustable— of which we show a large variety for every purpose and figure. for during the tedious. Hall-Borchert's complete correct Model Adjustable Form is in every way up to date. $5.00. tiresome fittings you change position so often that you are liable to change your lines. and get the benefit of Notion Dept. hips. Skirt can be adjusted to any style and can be raised or lowered to any desired skirt length. saves time and annoyance and its cost — many times over. a Dress Form of proper size and shape to aid you the form is always ready. conforming to any size or shape desired. $8. Shears and Tape Measure. With a dress form which reproduces your own lines perfectly you will be able to get a better fitting garment than if it was tried on yourself.making your own gowns there is no way without assistance that you can fit yourself without a Dress Form. $3. waist. — — t^ —of trying to see dress fits in the how your back or how —effectively by the use of the skirt hangs with the aid of a looking glass need no longer trouble you if you have a Dress Form of your exact figure.. main floor.. simply and durably made.50.00.00 and $15. these economical prices. $1.00. have a dress form by all means buy it at The May Co. etc. and will last a lifetime.00.50. stands without tiring. If you sew. Correct model bust and dress forms at $1. $12. and the fit of your garment is of far more importance than the quality of the material. can be adjusted at neck.
When you have a gown or suit that needs trimming. Cleveland Dress Trimming Company ^ V^ 4 6 Euclid Ave. most inexpensive gown can be made attractive with well selected trimming. their All first-class dressmakers desirous of saving their customers' time.the entire fit of your gown be of ruined. suitable and desirable effect can be obtained. for and own as well. if only a dash of it. but take a sample of your goods and go to a first-class dress trimming establishment and ask to be shown suitable trimmings for your goods and often you will find something new and attractive that in the ordinary way would have escaped your atten- The plainest. Dress Forms made and your dealer will gladly demonstrate them to you. do not go to the first store you happen to pass and take anything that may be presented to you. that a harmonious. 1 COVERED tooR DE R ^ ^ of Second Door East Opera House Page 41 . bands and special trimmings. colorless complexion must always study the trimmings and adornment of their costume and some bright color. tion entirely. whose beauty depend so much upon the graceful lines. laces. braids. and which is impossible to get when you fit yourself We show two of the most reliable reputable without one of these forms. A person with a dull. form. You should secure a Dress Form before attempting to make any of the up-to-date gowns. One can always procure such a variety of silks. the fitted in the old. are supplied with a dress today has neither the time or the patience to be manner. should usually be chosen. tedious woman (L) DRESS TRIMMINGS.
(Lesson the eyes sewed on the under facing and the hooks on the facing of the 53). confusing the one who is up valuable space with unnecessary repetitions. 3 — Be careful in picking up your skirt. careful that every stitch that shows through on the right side be positive 5 and even. that you do not opening of the plackets. Kirby Building MAIN 1565 No Waiters O'Brien Building MAIN 3914 Lesson 63. your placket opening down exactly the right length. Your skirt will never fit smoothly across the back of the hips if you do. your placket binding exactly after your pattern. The following rules must be observed. Home Cooking No Waiting Prices Reasonable M. it be in the making of the buttonholes. Stretching these edges means always a full baggy look. The bottom of the placket must be made secure on the under side. or in trying of the stretch the edges 4 — Be —Use belt. Don't have it too long nor yet so short an opening that you immediately tear open the placket. just far enough the garment. to get 2 — Cut easily into it on. The mark which reveals the inexperienced or careless sewer is more quickly and more likely to be seen in the finish of the placket than in any other part of your garment. reference will be made to the specific lesson treating of that particular subject instead of repeating the and over again. 6 We most highly recommend the notch at the right place on — See that the placket comes to the exact your making a placket. upper fold. P. Page 42 7— In . F. Luncheon 11 to 2 NEW CENTER LUNCH CLUB 813 Prospect Ave. only the best of hooks and eyes. C. 1 — Cut lessly. same general instructions over seeking information and also taking SENSIBLE PLACES TO LUNCH EUCLID CAFETIERE 328 Euclid Ave. Do not do it carebut see that your pattern is laid on correctly and pinned securely and that you cut accordingly. both edges of the opening must be faced. SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS In the following lessons we teach you the right way of making each part of a garment and in the succeeding lessons whenever that portion of the article is to be made. unless perhaps.— PLACKETS.CHAPTER VII. Wilson Hook and Eye.
3 With boning above and below the belting to form a pointed bodice into shape. cut a straight piece double the width desired. A trial will convince you of its merits.— BELTS AND BANDS. — — — effect. Ohio Lesson 65.band may be of one piece be of one piece lined or faced. which is a feature not to be overlooked in wash dresses. 64. for ordinary belting. Turn over the under edge and hem down to cover the seam on the inside of the garment. If desired the belt or band can then be entirely stitched around. For sale by all upon leading druggists or mailed to you receipt of 50 cents. A peplum is used instead of a belt or band or draw string to hold down at the waist and Page 43 .— YOKE AND PEPLUMS— A yoke is a very particular part of a garment to make. For this purpose wide belting is used.^XA. especially as wide belting shrinks from one to three inches to the ward. the Grean Co.— The belt or doubled or may However. For the Use of Careful Refined Women A A K^ C* A\ T\T l\ T"} ^ AA. 2j^ inches wide and fitted by gusset seams and boned Lesson BELTS AND BANDS. but a peplum is much easier especially to fit. Healing and Soothing Antiseptic Ever Used for a Douche for Practically All Female Weakness Sanar can be used without fear of injuring the* most delicate or affected tissues as it does not smart or burn and is highly recommended by many of the most eminent physicians in this country. Skirts and dresses at present are made with high belt. You can get the Grean Belt in three distinct styles: 1 Having bones as wide as the belting. If double.^.A. 2 With bones ejecting above the belting. The object of the bone above the belt is especially useful to unlined or loose linings as some of the material can be draped or attached to boning. Turn the top of the folded edge toward the garment and stitch. Cleveland. have improved this method by offering a seamless shaped belt thoroughly shrunk.'V K I XI -r Safe Reliable Effective The Wonderful Cleansing. for the draping of waists. No Married Lady Should Be Without This Wonderful Antiseptic SANAR REMEDY 746 Euclid Avenue CO. If the belt or band is faced sew the straight strip and the facing together and proceed the same as directed above.
is a part of the of garment and worn outside of the In is such not instances the in peplum must be exceptionally well any and all fitted or the good. For the seams.keep in in proper position the gathers of the corset cover or waist. tight or will Care must be taken that the peplum not made too draw up and wrinkle. across the chest in wrinkles let is too tight if or draws out from under the arm and too loose in the neck and across the chest take up the under the arms. be entirely done from the shoulder seams If it The fitting of the yoke must and the small space of the under arm seams. effect fitted. Sew up seams If If either by machine or by hand (Lesson 41). Rugs. All alterations for the neck seam both on the shoulders and must be made from the shoulder seams only. COMF>AMY "Where things are as represented" A GREAT STORE ALWAYS BUSY Prices Always as 5"flK3 Low or Lower Than Elsewhere Dry Goods. fit and alter (Lesson 77). Opposite New Market Page 44 Etc. peplum — gather the waist or corset cover if it at the yaist line and put on exactly as were a skirt you were attaching. yoke — attach collar (Lesson 66 or 68). but cases a yoke must be most carefully 76). style many the peplum waist. fitting of the peplum all adjustments must be made at the joining is You should be it sure the pattern exactly the right is size about the waist before using. Cut out (Lesson Baste up. West 25th. . Ready-to-Wear. of the fashionable waists of today the is However.
/ / ' . unless you are experienced in tailoring. If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealer's. You will find Orean Tailor Made Coat Collars beautifully shaped and pressed. which if is 3 necessary for the material which you are using.'/] . Lay right side of goods to right side of lining and baste. Sew around the bottom edge and the sides and turn right side out. 2. for the canvas cannot be sewed in the seam with the lining without making it a little bunglesome.— HIGH entire COLLARS.— Cut out (Lesson 76).' /'-'<> /jVA/ < 'C-'/y /.-JJ^C? Made Coat -^i ^hia is . Baste in soft pliable French canvas after you have carefully shrunk it. but if you wish to try to them yourself the following instructions should be followed: make Cut out exactly after pattern. 7. Press again.in its proper place. so the canvas will keep . Lesson 67. on hooks and eyes (Lesson 59). It is not necessary any more to make collars of cloth to match on the ' . Collars" a regular //-^^\ A /i'/""" /A *J'f r'/x'f /'. in the A it perfect cut of tailored collars is shown above figure. Sew on trimming. designed by Mr. taking great pains that your stitches do not show any more than you can help and that you have entirely covered the seam of the underpart of the collar and that you have kept an even line. . . The tailored collars are rather difficult to is make 1. turning under the edge and carefully overcast (see Lesson 6). stitch. Grean for those who find it difficult to shape an<^ ma ke the under-collar. 10. \f'i 1 / . Attach lining of collar to right side of garment and sew down by machine. cutting it out the seam's width from the edges. being careful to keep the goods and the canvas and the lining always perfectly smooth. We will supply you direct or through a reliable dealer and send you a catalogue of other dressmaking helps. 9.--V/ • '. 3. Men's coats are never and invariably made in ' \ i \\ \ \ \ i /' ' ' ' 1 ' either black or grey cloth. i underpart. 8. 5. Then bring the outside material of collar neatly and smoothly down. Large stitches and an uneven turn of the material of the collar would ruin the appearance of the most beautiful suit. write us. 4. 6. so best to buy the under collars ready made. 4 5 6 — Sew —Sew —Sew on all trimmings and ornaments. W"-"^ made \ \ so. in collar supports (Lesson 60). taking care the stitches do not show through. Catch the edges of the canvas to the cloth with the catch stitch (see Lesson 11).' . Press very carefully.— TAILORED COLLARS. sufficient 1 in collar to hide lining. 2—Turn seams around lining should be of cambric — Hem down with slant - Lesson 66. "Tailor /ff.' ' \ vl | e_ 13C Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Company New York 327-329 East 34th Street. Accept no imitations or substitutes. . * -. Tailor-Notch < .' v/m "-- / ' ' '\ \ * Collar.
Toledo. or the Page 46 . most pliable French canvas and baste it smoothly on the wrong side of the 2 — — Cut out (Lesson 76).YOUR CHARACTER SKETCH SCIENTIFICALLY GIVEN By the Expert and Noted Character Readers of the Acme Your perfectly defined College of Science — Incorporated under the laws of Ohio 1907 social Est.00. capacities. 1899 abilities. 3 — If lined turn right of lining to right of collar. softest. business. Ohio kind in The only incorporated College of Our students and satisfied patrons the United States and Europe. material. 5 right right side side edge of to of garment and —Turn — collar under side of edge of and hem down neatly to cover seam. 6 If collar is to be left separate turn inside edges and neatly stitch or sew down by hand. 4 — If collar to attach of top to ment turn collar stitch. perfectly Strictly confidential. America. using the fine running stitch slant stitch (Lesson (Lesson 5). Price $1.. 20). personal The Acme College 1714 of Science its Adams St. only If stiffening is necessary use cambric or the finest. and is stitch at outer gar- edge. are found throughout Lesson 68.— TURN DOWN 1 COLLARS. and domestic qualities and your physical condition correctly diagnosed. as Your character sketch three above stated and any questions scientifically and answered by mail.
page 54. — Cut out. 1Take a straight strip of the material. except the opening of the sleeve where cuff is attached must be faced back. and Construction Guide. 15c Per Pair Shoulder forms are made in different outlines. bottom of 6— Find the 5 1 and 3. (Lesson 53). New York Lesson 69. in edges of other side.. page 51. 2 Baste 3 4 — — —Turn down evenly and sew on machine.— Follow instructions (Lesson 69). Many beginners think sleeves are the hardest part of the garment to put together. The ordinary lap closing is made the same as the lap pocket. and some are not. lay right side against right side of goods. and fitters must use their judgment. thin. (Lesson 48). Straight. (Lesson 2— Baste up seams.PATENTED SHOULDER FORMS Shoulder Forms are used not for disfigured shoulders. 7 Baste together cuff and sleeve and sew in securely on machine. or face. if you will begin to fit by first placing the shoulder form in suchposition as you would like to have your coat appear. not noticeable. 10 Sew in securely on machine. but for garments where a permanent and a good shoulder They add a perfect outline to all shoulders. pliable. inside the coat. 8 Gather top of sleeve between exact notches. as to what to use. Mr. ends. and Sloping.— SLEEVES. High. — — of the sleeve or cuff. . 4 Hem. Grean has designed special shoulder forms for different weight of garments from the lightest weight silk and taffeta. at the notch where the fullness begins in the sleeve and turning the right of the sleeve to the right of the cuff tack to the notch in the cuff — For No. 327-329 East 34th St. They fit is desired. — — — — — Lesson 70. full- and tack again where the ness being most careful to have the notches come exactly together. Page 47 . 3 Sew up seams on machine and press. the bottom terations. Some are padded. 76). but much of the difficulty is removed if proper care is taken in observing the directions and in- structions and paying strict at- tention to the 1 notches.— SHIRT WAIST SLEEVE. are basted to canvas and you wA\ save a number of hours of alterations. Baste to cover seam and sew either by hand or on machine. 9 Attach where notches of waist designate. on and if Try al- necessary make (Lesson 77). Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. See Cutting Guide. to the heaviest automobile and fur garments. where the fullness starts. gather sleeve.
—The coat sleeve is much simpler as steps exactly according to instructions of Lesson 69. but outside of seam. If fill and your dealer cannot supply you. CUFFS— PLAIN BAND. but instead of facing. 4 5 stitch to than when cover seam. the bands are cut double width and turned back and hemmed over the seam which joins cuff and sleeve. cuff. and seven are omitted. is an article used always by that have filling ever tried it. —Cut two straight strips. • — For upper lap sew on in same manner. CUFF. which is so much in vogue now. or you may — Attach sleeve to lining of the cuff and turn back right edge of cuff and If cuff. are completed before attaching to sleeve. underlap put right side of strip to right side of sleeve 3 — Turn back and stitch by machine on both sides of strips.— — Lesson 71.. turning the top of strip either with perfectly square corners or in a neat V shape. COAT SLEEVE.— of Lesson 69. TURN BACK Make exactly the same as for shirt made of double length to turn back or instead of at the top. If more of the fullness than COMBINATION This AR1VI PAD all fitters Combination Arm Pad. except your cuffs are either are attached at the bottom of the cuffs waist six Lesson 72. plain The Band Cuffs are put on the same and CUFF— (Shirt They 1 Waist). except that the top of the flat coat sleeve. The coat sleeve is made For this purpose the sleeve roll of the Grean Dressmaking Specialties will be found very useful. New York is c Page 48 . and put on edge of pressing board. 2— For 4 and the stitch. Stitch your goods well over it. cuff. Baste inside of the sleeve. Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. The latter is much neater and gives a more tailored finish the top piece of the cuff is sewed into the seam. but a few suggestions mill make it plain just as 6 how 7 awkward for the to make them. requires a little soft foundation. — Cut out exactly after pattern. 2— lined turn right side of lining to right side of goods and stitch sides and bottom of 3 — Turn right side out and stitch again at the very edge of the —Attach as step 6 (Lesson 69). write us and we will either your order or direct you to a reliable merchant. The cuffs belonging to the sleeves are sometimes a little beginner. designed for the purpose of correcting the general hollow parts between the Arm Hole and the Bust. if the material is soft you can press out the material is hard or harsh. 3. 34th St. The 1 lap closing as seen in sleeve No.— LAP CLOSING. 327-329 E. It is very simple in construction. put damp cloth over and hold down firmly until you have pressed out all the superfluous fullness..
as seen in Lessons 87 and 107. and stitch on the lap. but restores the parts to healthy action.—POCKETS. The pocket should be of heavy mercerized goods made into a pouch the desired depth. Repeat this process until you have firmly secured the slit— then bring the thread through and work over and over. Then draw your thread from the top mark in a straight line to the bottom mark and back again on the opposite side of the goods. back and limbs sometimes with chilly sensations and nausea— will almost invariably meet and control the disease.Lesson 73. except that their outer edge is usually joined in the facing or with the seam of the ruffle. sore throat or nostrils. Such you have in Zoa-Phora Cold Cure. viz. Sewing Apron pockets are made in the same way. and at the same time increasing the severity of the usual symptoms. A NEGLECTED COLD. etc. The lap pocket as shown in the figure of the coat in Lesson 96. throat. ZOA-PHORA COLD REMEDY Its improves the sight and hearing- most remarkable storing the impaired of effect is the clearing of the head. rendering the disease still more difficult to treat. Pengelly was led to formulate force on the weaker parts. pain in the temples. The most trifling exposure renews the attack. back stitch the pouch into the slit of the garment. is the only one very much in evidence these days. blurred eyes. Hem tops and turn in bottom and both sides and stitch on garment. For partial list see page 96 of this book. Pengelly's Sure Shot) FOR Colds. cough. symptoms. Dr. is very simple to make.: Sneezing. The patch pocket." More suffering comes from neglected colds than from all other causes.— Persons suffering thus are martyrs to every change of weather. and_ revoice. Penhad been a careful student of its nature. It does not operate on the douche principle merely drying up and washing out the secretions. To keep the follows: Zoa-Phora Cold Remedy (Formerly Dr. Back stitch the pouch into the slit of the garment and stitch on the lap. it should be fastened as Measure one-eighth inch above and one-eighth below the slit and mark. been made at the bottom and both sides of the lap. Since the tiilly now justly famous ZOA-PHORA LaGRIPPE REMEDY. hut showing its greater From these deductions. Dr. and results. thus preventing a tedious and perhaps dangerous illness. Cough. The lap must be cut on an exact grain of the goods and should be lined with silk or some light material. SoreThroat. which treatment. slit from tearing into the cloth. together with the use of certain remedies in the treatment of the disease. headache. dullness of hearing and smell. Page 49 . brow or cheek. if taken promptly on the first signs of the disease— known by aching of the head. These investigations. letting the needle pass through the entire thickness After a row of stitching has of threads from the bottom mark to the top. convinced the Doctor that LaGrippe was (from whatever inducing cause) a sudden and general congestion attacking more or less the whole system. tightness at the root of the nose. Croup and Protection Against Pneumonia An old proverb says: "Never neglect a fresh cold if you would avoid sickness. the Price 50c per bottle The Zoa-Phora Cold Remedy and the Zoa-Phora LaGrippe Remedy are for sale at 50c per bottle at alllfirst-class drug stores. Zoa-Phora La Grippe Remedy first invasion of the disease known as LaGrippe in this country. A speedy and safe cure is invaluable.
but prevents its spotting and wrinkling so much.Shino Dust Absorbing Articles Reduces the Labor of Dusting and Polishing One-half. linens should be dipped in water in which has been placed a handful of salt. but your goods will Ginghams and stay fresh and in shape long enough to pay for your trouble. Ohio CHAPTER VIII. but in case one is not at hand one must always.— SPONGING AND SHRINKING. Much of the beauty of a gown depends upon its pressing.— PRESSING. Shino articles. least once. In pressing folds always see that the fold is perfectly straight. Cleveland. have a hot flat iron conveniently near. garment to hold its shape better. Shino Chemical Broom Cover. Lesson 74. but twice is better. always remembering it is almost impossible to put too much good press work on a garment. especially anything with a mesh. rinsing in warm water good as new. f*. r»l| Ine rioneerMrg. lint and germs. all Sold by good dealers. attract dust. Ail 4" f* 522 ° Sweeney Ave. Shino Chemical Floor Polisher. and in pressing sleeves one should shrink considerable of the fulness that is apt to occur on the inside seam of the arm at the elbow. Wool goods should be laid right side down and a wet Repeat at ironing sheet placed over it and ironed until it is perfectly dry. When filled makes them The The The The The The The Shino Chemical Dust Cloth. This is a slow process. especially in making a wool garment. Simplex Mop Handle. Shino Chemical Mitten Duster. Very thin goods should not be sponged Sponging not only helps your or shrunken. with dust. just as a magnet attracts steel. or sent postpaid by the manufacturers. Wool goods should nearly always be sponged and shrunken as should ginghams and linens. as the result of a marvelous chemical process. for a good presser can straighten out a multitude of little defects in sewing and stitching. Shino Chemical Handle Duster. to. Page 50 . If you are not good at pressing it would be best to baste back your seams in their exact place until you get more accustomed to pressing them in place. Always have a good piece of cotton long enough to cover the entire seam. wring out and then press until dry. while a poor presser can make the most carefully put together garment look badly. Dampen and iron till the cloth is perfectly dry then dampen once again and repeat the pressing. Lesson 75. Shino Chemical Dust Mop. An electric flatiron is a great advantage to the woman doing her own dressmaking.
(See Department 6). By courtesy of the CUTTING GUIDE 4-4/0 SIDE 6ftCK C^ POLO OP 36 INCH MflTERIflL WITH NAP BflO puzzling for hours to find how to lay out the pattern properly. E. Central 2259-L For prices on any Sewing Machine or Supplies PHONE or CALL on Expert Repairer will Call and Give Estimate Lesson 76. CUTTING. It shows just how to lay out the pattern on the goods correctly and scientifically.. No CUTTING GUIDE 4069 FOLD more than you OF 54 INCH MATERIAL WITHOUT Pictorial NAP' their need. and no Mistakes are impossible with this guide before you. No chance of wasting an inch of material mistakes. Pictorial Review Co. cutting guide a child Review Patterns are error proof and with can lay out and cut a garment as well as an expert. One accompanies every Pictorial Review pattern. 823 Superior N. There is absolutely no chance of cutting one piece the wrong way of the goods. we show their patent cutting guide.Main 2189 SEWING MACHINE SUPPLIES AND REPAIRS BRYSON CO. — Page 51 . 1 Before beginning see that you have every thing necessary to go ahead. No chance of cutting two backs or two fronts because a careless folder picked up two pieces instead of one. just as an expert would lay it out in order to cut it from the least possible material.— CUTTING GUIDE.
with a good paper pattern for your size and suitable to height and individuality. Do not make the mistake of buying a pattern a size too large or a size too small.M. and one chosen with due regard for the material to be made up and for the occasion of the wearing of the garment. M. to 2 P. M.M. Main-2371-J C— 6417 r £ ar=H r=]G "N \ The Mandarin No. to 2 P. your is thrown out when you start to make alterations. Page 52 . 622 Prospect Avenue ^n i — i i =ir=i i==i r=i i= ir^=: it=H Cleveland's Finest and Most Elaborate Chinese-American Cafe Shoppers' Novelty FROM 11 Luncheon A. but get your own size otherwise the entire proportion of your garment 2 —Provide yourself style. After Theatre Parties a Specialty Private Dining Rooms Reserved for Dinner Parties Special Attention Given Ladies without Escorts Our Kitchen is Open for Inspection to Patrons from 11:30 A.
5 If the garment has a lining cut the lining out first. A RELIABLE STORE The Boston Dry Goods 8813-17 Wade Park Avenue 13592 Euclid Avenue 8601 Detroit Avenue 14712 Detroit Avenue Co.-. 9— When absolutely sure every piece in careful to have it perfectly flat and — errors. UnlO LakeWOOd. baste it up and make all necessary alterations of the pattern (Lesson 77). 11 —Then proceed to baste together as is directed in Lesson 77. Cleveland . and will save you many possible is — 8— Pin down the pattern. for preparation. at prices that are no more and often less than elsewhere Good Values Courtesy Page S3 Progressiveness . This is of vital importance to the success of your garment. which furnished free with every Pictorial Review pattern. Ohio Selling Merchandise that bears the Stamp of Quality. and if your goods have a nap very strict attention must be given that the grain or nap lie in the same direction. See that every piece is on precisely the — your material as designated on the construction guide. then it fold. 4 Iron out every piece of your pattern and identify each section and if there is any doubt in your mind compare it with the similar piece on the construction guide. flowered or have a design see that it all runs in the same direction. 6 Follow exactly the construction guide for laying on your pattern which you have altered to fit your figure. and fit it perfectly 3 If — — — before cutting into the dress goods.. The nap should always rub down except velvet. no properly laid on cut out with very sharp shears so the goods are not frayed or haggled and under no circumstances fail to cut out every notch indicated on the pattern. and ac- cording to the construction guide. Striped or plaid materials must be perIf the fectly matched so the strips run into the seams on the same angle. right angle of should rub up. goods are 7 When the width of the goods will permit lay the pattern on the double fur or plush. being most wrinkles either pattern or goods. 10 Then with tailor's chalk or with a colored cotton thread run a line showing all the marks and perforations of the pattern.your goods are wool or gingham or such as need attention follow directions (see Lesson 74). until you have made sure what it is and where it belongs.
Do not attempt to put your garment together without this construction guide. or through a reliable dealer. Grean System of Fitting. The" made with a wide. specially for the summer or for warm climates.. These are made in Black and White. and the upper part of coarse Net which forms just the right kind of a foundation for light waists. Main 5283 Ground Floor 327-329 East 34th Street. to be guided by the waist and not by the bust." "VOTES FOR WOMEN are not so necessary as 44 Greanet »» LOTS FOR Many WOMEN are buying Invisible Home of them Sites in Waist Foundations Are used in making light weight lace or chiffon waists where a t ght-fitting lining would be out of place. New York Lesson 77. Williamson Bldg. It tifully BEACH GROVE improvements are being and homes erected. hours of time. constantly before you for it In the — CONSTRUCTION GUIDE 44JQ SLEEVE SECTIONS 'SIDE will BACK C plainly which pieces to join together and just where to join see that the notches correspond and that the seams are taken up on exactly the line shown and that each portion of your goods is in ar- them. FITTING AND ALTERATION. beauboned. etc. boning. 122 If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealers. ONELLY 120. according to waist measure..— CONSTRUCTION. write us. making of waists. We will supply you direct. which protrude above the belting and are finished with hooks and This is the new eyes. show you Always Page 54 . #100 down and $10 month buys a lot 40x125 for $750. Take Euclid Beach Car to Beach Grove on Lake where all installed Shore Boulevard. Cen. or the one accompanying your pattern. get off at East 152nd St. 2044 Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. and needs to be fitted only by adjusting the seams above the boned portions and on the shoulders. putting on the hooks and eyes. is shaped seamless belt. 121. But if you decide to make your own lining or foundation the following directions must be carefully followed. work and worry can be avoided by procuring the Grean Fitted Waist Linings and Foundations as it saves all of the labor of cutting basting.
With a great many Rotary machines in order to remove the Shuttle one has to use a screw driver and take out three screws.American cordance with the diagram of your construction guide. cut it out. For Unlined Waists and Dresses USE Grean Shaped Seamless. Your Dealer BOTH PHONES 426 Prospect Ave. for it takes time. and make See cut 4410. We shall be glad to demonstrate it at any time.. White Sewing Machine Co. Page 55 Sizes 22 to 33 inclusive Waist Measure. Boned Girdle A SCREW is DRIVER. It's with another time saver which herringbone belting hooks and the busy operator will surely appreciate. for the effect lies in perfect lines and it is impossible to obtain these without good basting. put it together and fit it. but naturally. Form Made wide of Finished handy tool to have around. Black or White ^. you don't care to use it unnecessarily. but with the White you simply a very raise a latch.Have rpT?T T TIVT/^'C 1 EEd lULLllMjiS ICECREAM? CONSTRUCTION GUIDE4069 French . If the garment has a lining. all necessary alterations before cutting into the dress goods..«e . The greatest of care should be taken in the basting up of the seams of your garment. r 35c at eyes Don't forget it! The White Rotary means more to you in a sewing way than you can think.
Central Dr. Bell Main 3938 . Monks Osteopathic Physician 302 Lennox Building Treatments by Appoin tmen t Res. Margaret B. Bell South 188-L Off.
Baths Massage Madison. 32nd Lake Grove Farm St. To alter for large abdomen.. Begin six inches below the waist line of remembering.To alter for very straight figures. and its length adjusted from the bottom or six inches below the hips. Begin six inches below the waist line and increase seam gradually until the correct size is obtained about the waist. Skirts must be altered in the seams. between shoulders or across chest or at neck or armhole.If garment wrinkles. as alter. for if too tight the skirt will wrinkle and draw. The same general instructions of careful work and perfect fitting and correct alterations apply to the making of all garments. extending each gore an inch at the top. Begin six inches below the hip line and gradually take up the seam. — — — and backs. until you have a perfect fit. Then follow the specific instructions of the lesson. Begin at the same point six inches below the waist and decrease the size of the seam. —Take arm up a seam. which you are following in making the garment in hand and you cannot fail to have a well fitting. alterations must be made from the shoulder seams and arm hole. To take up skirt at waist. the necessary width. well made gown. and the same general instructions apply. Begin six inches below the waist line. Or if skirt must be enlarged at waist. but do not alter any seams to remedy this trouble. Gymnasium Open Oct. two inches below the lower line of the Square or Sloping Shoulders. and gradually slant to meet the side back seams. than to alter the back of the skirt any more Fpr flat — the back seams. 1 Boating Bathing Out of Door Life Turkish. After you have properly cut and fit and altered the lining of the waist and measured and adjusted the pattern of your skirt. at the hip line of the front and side gores. carefully but before the outside material is cut into you must know that your pattern and lining are both altered exactly right. Electric Light and Shower Rest West Side Branch Franklin and W. If the hips are too large. Ohio Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister to Sept. except the front and the front edges of the side gore seams. and fill in the hollow of the back by sanitary pad. however. 1 Summer Camp Apply to the 1 Open July 1 to June Systematic Exercise and Recreation Young Women's Christian Association Prospect Avenue and 18th Cleveland. Begin six inches below the hip line and decrease the width of the seam. that it is better to take up fullness as possible. hole. edges of the gores. and let out gradually the seams the deIncrease also the side sired width. you will then be ready to cut into your dress goods. If the hips are too small. Care must always be taken alter To for — — — not to take too large a seam across the hips. much of the a hygenic and than absolutely necessary. Ohio Page 57 . being careful to keep a perfect seam line.
The well groomed woman's clothes are never loud or conspicuous and the colors always harmonize not only with the occasion for wearing. If your dealer cannot supply you we will send by mail. & P. Sold at drug and department stores. 50c and S1. SCIENTIFIC BEAUTY CULTURE. neatness. It Mother Nature gave the wisest everyone. Both are put up in 25c. skin dry and is — Frank Dowd DENTIST LOOK OLD? Wrinkles are only skin deep. contains no chemicals. and above all her collar is always in perfect position and neatly fastened fancy pins or with invisible fasteners. (Two Women) 1790 East 68th Street Cleveland.— CHAPTER woman The well harmony and appropriateness of groomed becomingly fineries is XII. one who exhibits cleanliness. at birth. or reds or pinks or any of the colors or materials suitable only for slight. OHIO Page 58 . together with an appreciation of the appropriate either with and the beautiful. FROWNERS are for the lines between the eyes. Wrinkle Eradicators. dressed —her gloves. Schofield Bldg. leaves no marks. Wrinkle Eradicators Simple. & P. Seventh Floor. handkerchiefs She always has her hair neatly and and neckwear and all her are immaculately clean and no rips. telling marks of time. tears or spots are ever visible and no hooks. certain. the wrinkles erased and the beauty greatly increased by the nightly application of these well known B. safe. CO. THE WELL GROOMED WOMAN. and gowns herself to express an innate sense of refinement and good taste. Scientific beauty culture means bodily and scientific —that to is. We cannot be this if our livers are out of order and our complexion anything but what we would wish open pores. more our duty to ourself as well as to others to be all that is bright and healthy and beautiful. fairy-like figures and a painfully thin woman does not show good teste in wearing stripes and such combinations as are supposed to be worn only by women desiring to reduce the appearance of their size. & P. which make the face look old and cross are unnecessary— remove them with the Crown and Bridgework a Specialty B. B. including booklet on care of face. eyes or buttons ever missing and her shoes are always clean Her skirts always hang evenly and her belt never is out of place or shined. care or culture of that beauty which or less. dress. These unsightly. but with her If she is inclined to be stout she does not wear plaids individuality and style.00 boxes. postpaid. In fact the well groomed woman studies herself. The skin can be made smooth. Ohio CLEVELAND. on receipt of price.
75c. for tender.50. THIS PHOTO PORTRAYS THE GANESH CHIN STRAP ($5. $3. Paris and Nice. Bottle. — MAIL ORDERS FILLED for all preparations and appliances on receipt of cheque. TIRED EYE TREATMENT restores tired. on looking sideways into our hand glass. discolored eyes to proper smoothness and fulness. London. GANESH DIABLE SKIN TONIC. Faithfully used they accomplish the most wonderful results everything that is claimed for them. sparkling eyes and a youthful contour. a splendid face wash. Bottle. ADAIR'S GANESH TOILET PREPARATIONS AND FACIAL TREATMENTS obtainable for years only at her Salons in New York.00. WRITE FOR VALUABLE BOOK containing list of all GANESH Preparations and Treatments and much beauty information and advice. ph one G reeley 1 3475 Bond New St.00. $6. to become deeper day by day. fills lows and removes wrinkles.50. W. Electrolysis is almost painless. illness and time. by antiseptic $2. withered skins to velvety SUPERFLUOUS HAIR TREATMENT HYGIENIC smoothness. lined. are the antithesis of "make-up". NEW YORK. either that a gross ''double-chin" is beginning to form. These Imported Appliances. PARIS Cambo Cambon MIPP" ll*\_I-. can be obtained nowhere else in the world.50) lost contour.00. strengthens the skin. which with maturer years will surely become a hard line between it and our original chin. $5. or that the muscles and tissues of the cheeks have become relaxed. holGANESH EASTERN MUSCLE OIL braces sagging muscles.00. $2. including the Strapping Muscle Treatment. Sometime we may be rudely awakened by finding. closes pores and alleviates skin flabbiness and puffiness under the eyes. originated.50.50. dry skins. GANESH EASTERN BALM SKIN FOOD $3. pendulous — MRS.00.00. as they reach the CAUSE of all blemishes and re-establish by natural means a healthy complexion. FACIAL MASSAGE.00) which cures deep lines between brows. which removes double chin and and the restores GANESH FOREHEAD STRAP ($4.50. $2. $1. restores lined. owned and patented by Mrs.unhealthy a state of neglect that makes the lines wrought by worries. corners of eyes and over forehead. LONDON 92 21 West 38th Street. $5.00. $5. and in consequence there are flabby. $1. 75c. Adair exclusively. with a line like a big wrinkle. $2. Rue Chauvain REGISTERED TRADE MARK Page 59 .
"How to Retain and Restore Youthful Beauty of Face and Form. adverse climates. 6U0 Madison Ave. New York. yellow or blood-shot eyes are marvelously efficacious. No woman need lose the shape of her features nor the grace of her figure if she practices the Ganesh Exercises and Treatment. FULTON Manicuring and Chiropody Room 604 Standard Bldg.. 0. which are so clearly and thoroughly explained in the interesting and instructive book. But when.m. Buffalo. double chin and restoring a youthful contour. taught. Beckman Bldg. raises and gives back the youthful shape and appearance to the face.. and loses its beauty of coloring. Makes skin soft and velvety." which you may have for the asking by mail or in person at the parlors of Mrs. Call owners of Ellsworth System. off. hanging on either side of the chin. Adair at 21 West 38th them — St. of eliminating deep frown lines. DeLONG SKALLA Dermatologist and Chiropodist Page 60 . For stores. In youth the soft. Huron Bldg. 0. of treating tired. There have been many treatments for the difficulties and for the cure of double chins.KJ y- ' _• Creme de Luxe a delightful preparation to use in Does not wear place of powder. this even support of the muscles and skin is withdrawn. sole • Ellsworth. and the skin falls into lines and furrows. Your skin is not a dead thing to be left alone it is a sensative part of you. exposed to heat and cold. originators. in 2462 -J bags. and Mine. Our everyare graduates where. Stone Prop. scientific and constant care. Cleveland Recommended by N. MAUD 716 Permanent Bldg. effective treatment called the Ganesh Strapping Muscle Treatment. MRS. teachers and the DeLong's Cucumber and Almond Massage Cream Used and recommended by Cleveland's best people. hollows are formed in cheeks and temples. removing lines. 1V1<i to 6 p. Personal instructions by D. absorption of some of this fat takes place.m. 0.OH ^ > 1VIY FOOT . it needs skillful. Mrs. N. Dr. be one of them and Let Me Give You a Sample lar ELLSWORTH COLLEGE 514 Permanent Bldg. rounded contour is maintained in all its attractiveness by the support afforded by the fat beneath it to the skin that lies smoothly over it like unwrinkled satin. Ellsworth All Facial of College branches beauty science V.. is All foot troublespermanently relieved by scientific corrections under supervision of a surgeon. R. Creme de Luxe 505 Hours S a. Toledo. or any other cause. it restores tone to the flabby muscles. Y. to which so many women owe their rejuvenated appearance. Adair's methods of reducing superfluous flesh. Cleveland. from illness. but nothing has ever met with anything like the instant and entire success of the wonderful. Stone's Shoe Store Send 12 cents sale all for sample. and filling out hollows. 323 Euclid Ave. for into place. altogether altering the shape of the face and adding years to our age.
— Chemises. and least 10 per cent of your entire appropriation for incidental be reserved expend- BAIRD BROS. — Evening Gowns. 7 — Drawers. Page 61 . 20— Housekeeping Gowns. 30— Scarf. & CO. Below we give a list which will help you in planning and serve to remind you of the essentials of every woman's complete wardrobe. Large size bottle 25c at your dealers' money should itures supply your needs. Belts. — Union Suits. — Night Gowns. Added too to these are the numberless trifles to tains a varnish dries instantly. 16— House Gowns. 10— Petticoats. 28—Jewelry. 25 — Collars. 1 2 3 "Never Mind. 6— Sanitary Belt. — Corset Covers. —Hosiery. 23 — Hair Dress. 12— Shoes. when the subject of renewing their wardrobe presents itself. hardwood finish and hard- Polishes and wood floors. 15 — Dinner Gowns. Cleveland. Ties. pianos. 17 — Negligee Gowns. 24— Handkerchiefs. Mamma" 4 5 11 14 19— Bath Robe. especially if one is preparing their clothes in advance for the season or perhaps arranging for a trip or a visit or for some occasion where a rather complete outfit is needed. Conno acid or injurious ingredients. — numerous mention. 13 — Traveling or Street Gowns. Standard Polish for 35 years. 0. 8 — Brassieres. —Furs. must be considered case an incidental cost in you to are planning all on just so much at A few drops on your dustcloth does the work.THE WARDROBE. accessories. 21 — Aprons. 27 — Coats. 22— Millinery. —Sanitary Skirt Protector. 9 — Corsets. 18— Kimona. but in all of which restores the original brilliancy and lustre to furniture. Often one does not know when to begin. 26 Monarch Polish Not will fix it 29—Veils.
that There is one small as article no woman should be they without but they either belt Sanitary Belt. that the choice and judgement of the most experienced corsetiere should be consulted.. POSTPAID. your entire wardrobe that should be given more There is no the grace of your careful attention than your corsets. gown will (C) SANITARY BELTS. as it does not constrict the waist and is designed and cut on the idea of supporting the abdomen. Ladies Improved Sanitary Belt and we have found no better on the market. your article in — not fit perfectly.&N. for unless your corset fits your individual figure. Webbing at Front and Back Wm. heart In other words it will allow one to dress according to the and stomach. Wright & Sons Co. and while supporting the bust. We at all times recommend the Berthe May "Hygie" corset as we find its hygienic and physical advantages cannot be disputed. inclusive. So much depends upon this one point. many makeshifts on they are the market. latest styles. are but few more ruinous habits than the use of safety pins and is There improvised methods character. Dept. it allows entire freedom and full expansion to the chest. but without the torture. like many other corsets do. there are satisfactory.(A) CORSETS. send us his name and 25c for sample belt. F Manufacturers For Comfort 40 Lispenard St. E. carefully made garment look its best. in fact the foundation of your entire appearance to say nothing of your health and comfort lies in the well fitting corset. Sizes of Belts are actual waist measure. to 48 ins. the same as with any ordinary corset. — We A Standard Pattern with our improved "Never-Slip Clasp" ( Patent Applied For ) Requires No Safety Pin Easily Adjusted in sizes Absolutely Secure Made 22 ins. lungs. & N. and that is a are most unwill unless properly constructed not stay clasped or will not hold the napkins in place. instead of pressing it down. New York City Page 62 . N." High Grade Elastic Ladies' Improved Sanitary Side. B. you are unable to procure it from your dealer. If sizes 22 inches to 48 inches inclusive. Order large enough to drop well down over hips. for the fit of your gown carriage. neither will the most expensive. At All Dealers "W. of fastening and your outfit not complete without a belt of this have carefully examined the W. but a well made can not only be worn with comfort but can be easily adjusted and will prove secure.
For misses and business ladies in mode summer of ladies' attire or evening dress.00 and $2. The Ama Sanitary Skirt Protector has so many c salient featur. made with lace net yoke affording perfect ventilation and can be readily laundered. nmde of a high grade white rubber muslin. as flexible as fine linen. fit and durability.(C) SKIRT PROTECTORS. is every woman's wardrobe. The Ama Sanitary Skirt Protector is an article especially desirable for the present dress. Call and let us demonstrate this article to you. Page 63 .00 each qualities. but have never before been able to secure in an ideal form. sanitary skirt protector a necessity to A AMA PSmmfW^ An article every is *^&™ woman will of welcome market THERE now on the the needa ready-to-wear which you wardrobe acce:sory.s that it cannot be ex elled for com ort. and theatrical The excellent material used guarantees its wearing is made in medium large size selling at Price 50c. 117 purchasing. THE AMA Sanitary Skirt Protector Patented Sept. $1. odorless. O. nurss people it is almost indispensable. Always recogour United States. CLARENCE BUILDING CLEVELAND. for one is never safe at certain times to wear their gowns and dainty underwear. less Beware of worthimitations. It is absolutely waterproof. We recommend the skirt protector as one that will give entire satisfaction. If you get a good one you can wash unless a sure protection is afforded. women. nize trademark before A1VIA CO. 1908 This garment and This article is fully protected Sanitary Skirt protector will be mailed to any address in the receipt of price the Upon Ama by patent. 22nd. and press it and always have it in perfect condition. tourists. have doubtless often realized.
Even though the edging and insertion be of fine lace or embroidery it will greatly add to the beauty of the garment to have at least a small floral design of hand work. CORNER SUPERIOR AND 105TH THE WARNER HAT SHOPPE considers it possible for every woman to have an Individual Style A Gift all Shop and Tea Room can be found Novelties in Art and Needle Work (D) MILLINERY. but great care should be used that the selection be one that exhibits taste. 15 E. Price 15 Cents at Department Stores AGENTS WANTED DAVID BASCH. Metal parts cannot rust. should wear a waist supporter in order that a good about the waist can always be relied upon. and if possible hand embroidered in any of the beautiful designs which can so easily be procured and done. held in by patented " loop. No sharp points to hurt fingers. when wearing a waist that is separate from the skirt. Dept. the street or traveling should be selected of one of the soft plain shapes with simple trimming. Simple. S. Little rubber The "LOOP-HOLD" Shirtwaist BELT corrects a common fault in dress. at back. Price 15 Cents. Many make these garments entirely by hand. but the majority of women Waist Cannot Be Displaced pyramid "Units" grip and keep waist from riding up. New York Page 64 .. but for church and theatre wear one A may branch more elaborate and trimmed effects and can satisfy and decoration of ribbons. Pat'ee &Mfr. Every careful dresser. chemise. feathers and flowers. both French and Domestic. off into the their eye as to color (E) SHIRT WAIST SUPPORTERS. Self-acting buckle stays put. on receipt of price." take double hold without undue pressure. practical. The night gown. style and setting of one's face and features. sent postpaid. effect There is no better (F) LINGERIE. refinement and a respect for the shape. with so much pleasure at one's leisure time if handy with the needle. great improvement over old style belts.. graceiul. 17th St. corset covers and drawers should be of dainty muslin or fine linen. 1/ not at dealers.ARBORj TEA SHOP Earner flat ^oppe where 6541 Euclid Avenue Exclusive Models in Dress and Tailored Hats. skirt supporter on the market than is shown below. hat for business. gown as the waist There is nothing that ruins the entire appearance of a out of place above the belt line or perhaps showing a dividing line between the skirt band and the waist line. elastic sides.
be a cloth a rain-proof fabric of "Cravenette" proof is a process which The process permeates every fibre renders a cloth or garment water-proof. rendering the cloth permanently rain-proof, and rain will then of the yarns, You can have your coat, suit, wrap, or neither wet nor spot the garment. motoring garments made from the Priestley Cravenette Cloths, and you will If you are obliged to be out in all kinds of find your needs perfectly met. weather, rain or shine, you should by all means have a "Cravenette" rain-coat. We specify "Cravenette," because a genuine Cravenette-proof coat contains no rubber, is porous to air, yet rain-proof and has not the disagreeable odor common to most raincoats, and too, there is not the stiffness of the material, which renders many of the rain coats so undesirable and unattractive. The Cravenette-proof process leaves the cloth just as supple as before and every The main point to bear in fibre of the yarns is made thoroughly rain-proof. mind is to get a rain-coat that is strictly hygienic, keeping the dampness out without preventing ventilation. However, if you are only out in an occasional sprinkle or shower, a rain-coat is unnecessary, but you should have a street
(G) RAINCOATS AND people imagine Cravenette some sort but such is not the case.
or business or traveling suit
any of the Priestley cloths of serviceable
and wearable mohair suitings, serge, chevoit, whipcord, etta, which you can get "Cravenette" proof.
Silk y^^y^pti^^fiyci^ Labe
stamped on the inside and a sewed at the collar or elsewhere.
None Genuine Without Them
applied to many kinds of cloth suitable for outer garchildren's men's, women's and ments in light, medium and heavy weights for seasons of the year, and are for wear in rain or shine.
" Rain Will Neither
Wet Nor Spot Them."
They con t ain no Rubber, have no
disagreeable odor; will not overheat or cause perspiration.
For sale by leading dealers in Men's, Women's and Children's Clothing.
Hoboken, New Jersey
postal to the
Co., 100 Fifth Avenue, will bring interesting booklet.
A DROP OF OIL
annoyance, and more than that, when it gets on goods that you are anxious to keep clean. The oil cup on the White Rotary prevents all trouble of the kind. It's a trifle, but
by attention to the little things that make the White Rotary the very best machine you can buy. Our terms will surprise you by their
White Sewing Machine Go.
426 Prospect Ave.
Lesson 78.— CORSET
nainsook, muslin, sheer lawn, linen, or any thin fine material.
tucks (Lesson 54). Join seams with French seam (Lesson 47).
Gather at waist line son 64). Finish neck and armholes with embroidery scallops (Lesson 22), or face on right side with very fine embroidery. See Lesson 53.) Embroider any desired design (Lessons 19-25 inclusive). Make eyelets and run in ribbon to hold in fullness (Lesson 25). Close with small buttons and buttonholes (Lessons 29-30).
(Lesson 65). and make band of goods or of beading for belt (Les-
Cut out (Lesson
Join with either plain or French seams.
(See Lessons 41 and 47.)
Face both sides of opening (Lesson Face around top for belt (Lesson
Make buttonholes (Lesson 27). Sew on buttons (Lesson 30).
have not the time to put so much personal labor on their wardrobe, but the character of a woman is more easily discerned by the daintiness, prettiness and completeness of her lingerie, than by the beauty or elaborateness of her best gowns.
In France, a bride has never less than 12 pieces of each article of underwear beautifully done by hand work and exhibited with great pride to all her
buying and making these garments that your lingerie with care will last for many years to come, and you can afford to put more time and expense on them than on your outside garments that change style, color and design to suit every whim and caprice of fashion.
Lesson 80.— CHEMISE. Procure a good chemise pattern and make exactly as instructed in (Lesson 79), on the making of night gowns.
Lesson 81.— NIGHT GOWN. Cut out (Lesson 76). Join with dainty French seam (Lesson Embroider neck and edge of sleeves (Lesson 22), or fact on the right side with any desired trimming of embroidery or lace fine (Lesson 53). Embroider desired design. (See Lessons 19 to 25 inclusive).
Make eyelets (Lesson 25) neck, and draw about through ribbon to adjust
Lesson 82.— COMBINATION UNDERGARMENTS. Cut out (Lesson 76). Fit carefully (Lesson 77). Join all seams with French seams (Lesson 47). Set in yoke (Lesson 65). Put on beading and edging (Lesson 57). Sew on ruffle (Lesson 56). If for open drawers face both sides of opening (Lesson 53). Close with small buttons and buttonholes (Lesson
Hem (Lesson 48). GUI Chapel in Connection Jay P.— PETTICOATS. Face top (Lesson 53). Page 68 . Face upper edge of the garment (see Lesson 53). DRESSING SACQUES AND KIMONAS.— SKIRTS AND UNDERWEAR WITHOUT PLACKET. drawing it through the slit on the opposite side. The material can be of large figured silk. challie. Have plenty of white skirts plain or elaborate to match your other lingerie of your outfit. soft flannels or in fact almost any pretty Have your negligee gowns as attractive as your skill fabric may be used. QBE Lesson 84.Lesson 83. Sew on buttons (Lesson 30). house and evening gowns. Stitch the facing down securely. Make buttonholes (Lesson 29). silk. and where the fullness commences make a slit on each side and insert a tape. but have them made the proper length to wear with your For your sireet. East 135 1738 East 55th Street Cut out (Lesson 76). Parrish Funeral Director Bell Phone. business and traveling gowns. dimities. for it is the dainty feminine expression of lingerie and negligee garments that expresses the refined womanly tastes and will prove of pleasure to you so long as they last. heatherbloom or even a good quality of sateen is preferable. Join ruffle (Lesson 56). fleece lined goods. Join seams (Lesson 41). lawns. The slit should be carefully worked with the button hole stitch (Lesson 24). and means will permit.
not go to the
Kimonas and Art Laces"
before buying ?
150 The Arcade
See Our Beautiful Designs and Get Our Low Prices
Lesson 85.— DRESSING
Cut out (Lesson
pleat in back.
Face collar (Lesson
elbow and shirr around
waist (Lesson 55), and finish with dainty
of bright ribbon at the waist.
Lesson 86.— KIM ON A.
Cut out (Lesson
seams on machine.
bottom of garment (Lesson
Make yoke and attach (Lesson 65). Make sleeves and put in (Lesson
Face edges and sleeves (Lesson
facing should be of satin or
ing shade of the same or a lighter material.
scientific drugless treatment
Aprons are the simplest of all garments to make, No. 3857 is especially easy to make. Cut out goods (Lesson 76). Face all edges (Lesson 53). Make pocket (Lesson 73)." Make one buttonhole and sew on button (Lessons 29-30).
No. 3180 requires a little more time and effort. Cut out (Lesson 76). If embroidery for ruffle, bib and pockets is not used hem ruffle (Lesson 48). Face bib and pockets (Lesson
Put on ruffle (Lesson 56). Put on pockets (Lesson 73). Gather and join bib to skirt of
Put on band (Lesson 64).
Is This the
Is that the condition of your nerves? If so, your system is just like the violin shown above; utterly unable to perform the work for which it was intended. Until there is an improvement in these conditions, there is no chance for harmonious action between the various organs of the body. The office of the nervous system is to control and direct the vital forces. If the nerves are not strong, healthy and in proper tone they cannot do this work any more than can the violin give forth sweet and melodious music when "all unstrung."
You Do Not Need
a Nerve STIMULANT, But a NERVE Food. a Nerve Food and Strength Builder.
At the same prepared especially to build up and strengthen the nervous system. time it purifies the blood and regulates the circulation, so that the nerve centers may distribute the vital forces to the organs in need. If you'are only slightly nervous, you ought to take ZOA-PHORA at once and thus thwart the onward march of the disease. If your nerves are already in such a shattered condition that they are threatened with nervous prostration, ZOA-PHORA will give you relief and strengthen your nervous system.
95 for the Special
Lesson 88.— LINGERIE WAIST. Choose your pattern and
follow the instructions of
desired design and effect and mak-
ing according to
Sleeves, Lesson 69 or 70.
Collars, Lessons 66, 67 and 68. Yoke, Lesson 65. Trimmings and Finish, Lessons 54, 57, 58 and 62. If a Lining is desired make according to Lessons 76 and 77.
Lesson 89.— HOUSE KEEPING GOWNS. Your house keeping gowns should be of percale or gingham or some wash goods so that at all times you can be immaculately clean. Have them made plain and simple so they can be easily gotten into and also have your aprons large, and of a material that washes neatly. Use instructions (Lesson 76), taking steps according to numbers; X-l, X-5, X-7, X-8, X-9, X-15. Then put on facing about sleeves, neck and down front and belt (Lesson 53). Now hem skirt (Lesson 48). Sew on buttons and make buttonholes (Lessons
Easy to Pay the Rosenblum Way"
STYLISH GOODS Woman
pays the bill
WE GIVE STAMPS
We Make Good Unsatisfactory Purchases We Never Misrepresent
GIVE US A CALL
Credit Clothing Co.
2014 Ontario St. Cor.^hamplain
Mr. Rosenblum Himself
6—Make sleeves and attach (Lesson 70). 4 Form box pleat in right front.—A shirt waist is something it seems no one has too many of they are so useful and so necessary for so many occasions and can be constructed of such a variety of fabrics and in such a wide range of styles.There Must Be a Reason Why our business new customers month. and leave collar loose. CLEVELAND CREDIT CLOTHING Over Atlantic CO. 8 Make collar (Lesson 66).00 a Week Payments Complete furnishers — Hats. Coats. The quality of our merchandise is the best and our guarantee of absolute satisare not in the faction is given with every sale. & Pacific Tea Company's Store 2165 Ontario Street. and stitch on both sides of pleat. Jewelry. 3 Fit and make any necessary alterations (Lesson 77). — Gather at waist 5 7 line in and attach a belt or stitch bias band to hold gathers secure. etc. 9 Lesson it 91. Suits. Shoes. Dresses. — GOWNS. We do not have any collectors. turning to the specific lesson as indicated. — — Make buttonholes and sew on buttons (Lesson 29-30). Hundreds of are added to our already large patronage every is There We We is a Reason — High Rent District. you cannot fail to develop your Page 72 . — — — — — — Hem the underside of the front closing. 1 Cut (Lesson 76). All Goods Sold on $1. By following these instructions carefully and faithfully. —We will give directions for making gown 4533 as contains nearly every element and requires the explanation of nearly all points of dressmaking. 2 Join with plain seams (Lesson 41). Skhts. of course. Waists. do not handle any premiums nor give trading stamps (the customer. and attach or put on neck band (Lesson 64). Our operating expenses are low. pays for both at all stores where they give them).— SHIRT WAIST. Upstairs Lesson 90. growing by leaps and bounds. front and back.
Ptawi 3fttBtrufitum .
departments on cooking. She is very properly interested in the schools which her children shall attend. housekeeping. special articles in PICTORIAL are on subjects of interest to women. She is looking for more information constantly and PICTORIAL furnishes that knowledge. With these departments before you a magazine devoted wholly to housekeeping is a needless extravagance. and in harmony with the an evening gown the upper portion of both lining and material of the waist can be cut away. Charming Lingerie Frocks Smart Street Toilettes Afternoon Dresses in Foulards and Taffetas New and Fascinating Evening Gowns An Alluring Assortment of Lace Blouses in the New Casaque and Peplum Styles The PICTORIAL REVIEW is not wholly a fashion magazine although it carries more and better styles than any fashion magazine published. and in many other subjects which are of vital importance to her daily living. They make the so-called "fiction-magazine" unnecessary. The May Co. etc. in the politics which make taxes high and her rent accordingly higher. materia! Any ornamentation suitable to the occasion to be worn may be used. a necessity in every home. state and nation in which she lives. The household departments in PICTORIAL REVIEW. It is Its suggestions. find that she considers "home" to be the city. The fiction stories in PICTORIAL RE- VIEW The are equal to the very best you can get anywhere." It covers every range of woman's activity completely. home decoration.. its ideas will save much more than the cost of the magazine for a year. The up-to-date American housewife is a thinking woman. For To be Dressed Styles in the Latest Fashion Select Your from the Season's Number The PICTORIAL REVIEW FASHION BOOK For sale by The May Costs only 5c When Purchased with a 15c pattern For sale by Co.16 17 — Face bottom of skirt (Lesson —Sew on hooks and eyes (Lesson 53). If you wish to please your husband's palate just give him some of the good. 59). tasty dishes described in PICTORIAL REVIEW'S COOKING DEPARTMENT. making as low or as high cut gown as desired. marketing. New York London Headquarters: Louis Berlin San Francisco Vienna St.. REVIEW The Pictorial Chicago Paris Review Company St. You had better subscribe now and find out about our magazine and our patterns. 222-224-226 W. believe that the real American woman does not consider "home" to be just the house in which she lives. In short. 39th NEW YORK Page 74 . PICTORIAL REVIEW is "The Magazine for Women. plain. in life insurance which cares for her REVIEW We We when the bread-winner is suddenly taken away. are written by experts and their information is practical and daily useful.
'Make exactly according to Lesson 91. elegance or elaborateness. when the same amount of money expended in two or three simple evening frocks would have constantly served to the pleasure and needs. and the panel is used instead of the — GOWN — all-over flounce. . as often too elegant evening gowns lie your unused and unenjoyed. except the breteile is crossed in the front instead of the back. for a season 30. Phones 4598 Central 1379-W .—EVENING AND DINNER GOWNS. For making see Lesson 91. or as magnificent as her station in life demands.Lesson 92. Lesson 93. Select carefully your materials with a view of perfect keeping with social demands and associates. but for younger women prettiness and daintiness and attractiveness should be the aim rather than richness. Every wardrobe should hold as many evening gowns as the individual will have need of. and they should be as simple. Main . yet sometimes the other extreme is met. and a number of cheap inappropriate useless garments purchased when one good garment of a more suitable nature would have been a better investment.
Boarding Home Transient Accommodations Employment Bureau Travelers' Aid .
all heavy winter selves. for a tailormade coat or jacket. These tailor-made coat front foundations are made in different weights and lengths. but the difference Some tailors sew cloth and canvas tolies chiefly in preparing the fronts. in and renders it unfit to be used your garment. A good sized arm-pad surrounding.. which is usually nothing but glue. themself. They in are a made variety upsuit to-date styles to different coats. They are made of the best material appropriate for this purpose and are thoroughly sponged and shrunk. but you can detect cheap worthless coat front foundations by their stiffness. 34th St. You requirements.. They are all very soft and pliable. 50c to $1. to will make find a Those who are unable good tailor made front Grean's Tailor Made Coat for Front Foundations to be almost a necessity. you will find a Grean patented Shoulder form. you will notice that it is It is not only a foundation over a complete coat front.00 GREAN SHOULDER FORM & PAD CO. Tailor-Made Coat Fronts Foundations are distinguished by their beautiful shaping and tailoring and every season the shapes change according to the prevailing To those who have found difficulty in making coat fronts for themfashions. gether and some tailors use fronts of canvas prepared separately to fit the outside. it will be a good lesson and example to study Grean ready made and tailor- made make coat front foundation. There are several methods of making jackets and coats. them in medium weight variety to suit tailor suit. from the lightest silks to the heaviest automobile garments.Made' ' Coat Front Foundation By examining the drawing alongside which shows the inside view of the Grean Tailor-Made Coat Front Foundation. but well tailored and firm enough to support and retain shape permanently. If your dealer cannot supply you write us immediately. from the short Eton coat to a 32 inch length coat so much worn now. lightweight silk or velvet Grean suits and fur garments. but a tailored made coat front. and at the top. in the shoulder. which the cloth is placed. New York Page 77 .Lesson 96. which can be purchased for much less than one can Accept no imitations or substitutes. are protected with a white linen stay. The present styles demand soft coat fronts. 327-329 E. a wide button hole stay runs the whole length of the coat. must have more in it than an ordinary piece of canvas without preliminary preparations of careful sponging and shrinking. will find coat. The foundation for the front of your coat or jacket is very important. made of white French felt and edges of the best herringbone hair-cloth used for center stiffening.— CLOAKS AND SUIT JACKETS. "Tailor. but it is also part of a pattern by which one can be safely guided.
sew up seams in desired manner (Lesson 41). There is 4 — Lay on goods (Lesson 76— to — Cut out lining (Lesson 76— 3 — Baste up lining seams (Lesson — Fit and make necessary alterations (Lesson —'Cut outside material (Lesson 76—6-11). strict attention to the By paying Page 78 . 2 5). (Lesson 73). 14 — Make sleeves (Lesson 72). —Make buttons and buttonholes (Lessons 29 and 30). all 77). and press seams open. No work or stitches should be left visible on the lining. 9 When an exact fit has been obtained detach from lining. IS — Again press the entire garment. in any style or manner desired. 7 Join seams of lining. above directions you will be able to work out a well fitting. out and attach with very small slant stitches (Lesson 12 cover the seam. — 8 Baste goods over lining and try on and fit perfectly (Lesson 77).no more particular work in dressmaking than the proper tailoring of a jacket or coat and you should never attempt to make one of these garments in a hurry. 327-329 East 34th St. You can purchase made at any of our advertisers carrying Grean dressmaking supplies. beautifully shaped and used in either short coats or long coats where only bust reinforcing is necessary and If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealer's. write us. NEW YORK — Baste ready in these bust forms of hair cloth or soft canvas. in. GREAN SHOULDER FORM & PAD 6 CO. 16—The trimmings can then be sewed on. 10 11 — — — Make and put pocket — Put in lining right side in 5).. 5 Short Coat-Fronts Short Coat Front. 1 1 5). 3). for much of the beauty of the coat or cloak depends upon this part. made of Hair-Cloth. nicely finished garment and the saving of doing this work yourself will allow you to put extra money into a better grade of material than otherwise you could choose or you can practically buy the goods for another suit. We will supply you direct or through a reliable used in garments where a coat front of canvas has been already used but has is extensively altering dealer and send you a catalogue of other dressmaking helps. 35 to 50c 50c lost its original shape. press and sew turning in the lining to 13 — Make collar and attach (Lesson 67). and press (Lesson 75).
^6. as not only the appearance. P^t^£L.. but the comfort of the individual to a large extent depends upon these two things. must be given the matter of corsets and the lining of the gowns. The Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones have in the past years permanently relieved thousands upon thousands of women and the price of a month's treatment for 50 cents makes them within the reach of all. Page 79 . They contain Nerve Tonics ANTISEPTIC which are absorbed into the Blood and VITALIZING COHES Give Vitality to the Whole System. They allay Inflammation and heal the irri71. MICHIGAN. ZOA-PHORA CO. CHAPTER XIII. Cones are a female suppository. Beware of dangerous imitations that contain mineral and poisons and which have'no established fifty reputation. 50 CENTS. has been found. Read on the last page of this book your druggist' special offer to you of a free ten days' treatment of these Cones. The herself outfit an expectant mother prepares for entirely depends upon what her duties all require of her during this period. a tated parts. but in in- stances the clothing must be loose and comfortable and both the dress and underwear should be Special attento supported tion from the shoulders. Proprietors. reliPRICE.ZOA-PHORA Antiseptic Vitalizing CONES Are for local treatment and are antiseptic in their action on Diseased Tis- sue and Unhealthy Conditions. safe. Ten days' treatment will convince you that no matter how serious your condition a positive relief Sample free upon request. MATERNITY OUTFIT. L able and effective. The Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing KALAMAZOO.
together with photographic reproductions and full information. New York (98)— MATERNITY CORSETS. It is manufactured to be an absolute safeguard against all accidents for the mother as well as for the child. 10 E. BERTHE MAY. to be used whenever needed. and to attend to her customary vocation during the whole term of her pregnancy. in a normal condition.00 to $18. Prices from $5. expectant mother should go without a corset. which can be opened successively when more room is needed. abdominal support at all times. and it can be reduced to a normal size and worn as long as desired after the child is born. and yet with its own particular advantages. 15 Which will b. on account of the healthy support which it gives both the abdomen and to the back. Every woman should have this corset in her wardrobe. to preserve a normal appearance. but she should never wear the ordinary style and cut. The most celebrated maternity corset that has come to our notice is the Berthe May "Lucine" corset. No — Page 80 . Physicians use it in their own families aud prescribe it to their patients. through a system of inside plaits of the material. 46th St. as it can be worn at any time. and upon examination and investigation we find that the "Lucine" corset is so constructed that it can be worn as early as wanted. enables women to dress as usual. and allows the mother to dress as usual. thus affording the comfort and safety so necessary in a weakened condition of the abdomen.00 Write for free booklet No. The Lucine corset can be made gradually larger when wanted.BERTHE MAY'S Maternity Corset The only corset of this kind made for its own purpose. as her own health and that of her child would be materially injured by such a course.. thanks to its exclusive and It procures an absolute simple system of gradual enlargement. Orders by mail filled with absolute satisfaction because of my perfect yet simple measurement system. as well as during the maternity period. A maternity corset must combine as an abdominal support and a corset in fact it must be a protection to the abdominal walls against too great relaxation and yet must serve to give grace to the figure and to make it possible for her to go about and be active during the entire period.. to deport herself with the greatest comfort. Mfr. sent under plain envelope. the same as an ordinary corset. to preserve a normal appearance and to attend to their every -day vocations.
reliable and satisfactory treatment. MICHIGAN. See instructions (Lesson 76). maternity skirt is cut after a special maternity skirt pattern. Make lacing. PRICE. for making. Sample sent FREE upon request. falls is eyelets (Lesson 25) on both sides of all three openings. Accept no substitute.) QA~rt X REMEDY CO. and a very pliable. easy stretching elastic band is used for the belt. but it is seamed and faced and finished the same as given in the regular lesson on It should have a good sized pleat at each seam. Lesson 100. Instead of making starting in the usual way the lining has dart seams from the shoulder and the center of the neck. The opening down is the front shoulder is hemmed back. tion at the top for lengthening front and sides. and lace down with linen or elastic The band from which rather loosely fitted is the front of the skirt from exactly under the necessity to enlarge. 50 CENTS.— MATERNITY GOWN. make this gown perfectly. 3916. See cut of lining at top of Fig. how serious your case you will find the ZOA-PHORA PILE the one safe. will forever convince you that to suffer with this disease is positively unGo to your Pull directions in each package. druggist today ana procure a month's treatment before your No matter disease becomes more deep seated and chronic. Cleveland's best Toledo. A IT /*phOHA (Trade Mark. Ohio full line of druggists who handle the Zoa-Phora Remedies Page 81 . is arms where there but little Allowance must be made that enough goods left at the top of the skirt to extend the front and sides will as the figure demands in order that the skirt hang evenly all way around.Lesson 99. list of of time and 50 cents for a full month's treatment well-known meritorious effective Remedy. - Zoa-Phora Ten minutes of this Pile Remedy PILE ZOA-PHORA KALAMAZOO. Proprietors. except the lining is finished altogether differently..— MATERNITY SKIRT. and extending to the bottom of the waist lining. and an extenskirt making. and the dart seams either side from the shoulder faced back (Lesson S3). REMEDY— known See page 96 for ZOA-PHORA REMEDIES COMPANY. necessary. The instructions found in Lesson 91.
belts and acces- sories.CHAPTER IV. opiates. Special attention should be paid to your corsets. 12— Hair ornaments. while you are growing you can seriously injure yourself and your health. 4 5 Growing Girls For over 50 years Zoa-Phora has proven an invaluable remedy to meet the needs of weak. together with complete instructions for the making of them and if you are a wise girl you will begin with the first lesson of this book and master every point of plain and fancy needlework for it is one of the most refined acquirements possible for a gentlewoman to attain. 6 7 — Petticoats. 18— Corset waists. 8— School dress. To the girl after her who is away from home wardrobe we have made out a most useful in list or the one without a mother to look of necessary articles and you will find the list planning your wardrobe. 15 —Collars and ties. Pengelly's pri- 13— Millinery. narcotics or other dangerous or harmful drugs. We would recommend the Berthe May "Hebe" Corset. sickly girls and women. suits. enrich 4— Handkerchief s. 10 — Party dress. nervous. for during the pliable age. Zoa-Phora is Dr. as it will give you all the beautiful curves and angles without the discomfort and danger of the modern corset. Do not make the mistake of going without sufficient underwear and of a quality to give you sufficient warmth and have all of your lingerie plain and dainty. — House gown. by wearing a badly fitted corset. build up the tissues^strengthen the nerves and put the entire constitution in harZoa-Phora is monious condition. — Hosiery. 16 17 Read our Special Offer Page 96 of this Book. 11 —White petticoats. — Shoes. for every girl entering womanhood. All of your garments should be simple and Page 82 . 20— Cloak. 21 — Furs. especially~compounded to purify and the blood. 19 — Sweater. — — Night gowns. — Light warm woolen 2— Under vests. Get your shoes of sensible style and thickness and large enough to be comfortable regardless of the season or fashion. THE SCHOOL GIRL'S WARDROBE. You will find on the following pages suggestions of appropriate styles for your gowns. 1 vate prescription for women. purely a vegetable compound no alcohol. — Combination corset 1 combination 3 covers and -WOMAN'S FRIEND FOR drawers. — Bath robes. 9 — Church dress.
OHIO West Side Branch Franklin and W. whose natural charms are beginning to wane. Follow instructions for making as found in LesGirl's dresses are The son style 91. Skirt (Lesson 95). and without collar Lesson 101. shown is one widely approved of and very popular for graduating.girlish. Remember immaculate. edge. party and summer dresses. 32nd Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister Choral Classes Bible Classes Page 83 . gorgeous effects suitable for the stage or at best for older women. GIRL'S DRESSES. — GIRLS SCHOOL shirt waist DRESS. omit- hemming. made exactly on the same principle as a lady's dress. dainty garments will win for you a thousand fold more admiration than magnificent. Lesson 102. Follow instructions for (Lesson 89). the material if embroidery omit omit Xll.— Make has exactly according to Lesson 91. and if no lining X2— X6. sensible.— ting GOWN if 3911. CLEVELAND. Collar (Lesson 63). as nothing is more unattractive than rich elegant garments worn by a sweet faced girl. Piano and Apply to the Junior and Industrial Mandolin Lessons Orchestra Practice Young Women's Christian ^Association Clubs Prospect Avenue and East 18th Membership Parties St. whose youth and its natural qualities need no artificial adornment.
Especially pre- sewing where an economical wife and mother can save to more advantage than in by doing the work herself the making of the children's clothes. Used in Cleveland Orphan Asylums 20 years. Page 84 . clean. novelty goods or any warm material must be worn. plain (Lesson 41).CHILDREN'S CLOTHES. so that It is can be kept perfectly hardly economical to make boys clothing after they leave the "Buster Brown" period. ones daintily dressed and Lickes Drug Co. and linens. poplins. Cleveland. piques. either 47). ginghams.— CHILDREN'S DRESSES. but in the winter either underwear heavy enough to fully protect the child from the cold must be provided or woolen dresses of serge. all tucks in goods before cutting (Lesson Cut (Lesson Close 76). sleeves and put in (Lesson 69). more labor and is care and expense than usually figured on. O. There is perhaps no department of WHOOPING COUGH DUNHAM'S SPECIFIC. bot. or French seams (Lesson Make Make Make ruffles and attach (Lesson (Lesson 48). At Druggists.00. so we do not take up space in giving this instruction. collar 68). Hem Close (Lesson with dainty buttons and small button- holes (Lessons 29-30). M'f 'rs. Make 54). Physicians recommend it. flannel. Every mother desires to see her little this requires 12 oz.. 5 oz. repps. seams. The main goods such as point in planning children's garments in is to have them as plain and appropriate as possible. In the latter instance the guimpe or sleeves it and yoke should always be of wash goods. percales. $1. Shortens and lightens the disease. pared for Whooping Cough. every instance possible should be of wash etc. Colds. Quickly cures Croup.. 56). Prevents bronchial diseases. 50 cts. severe Coughs. bot. Lesson 104.
Lesson 105. seam hidden by the facing 4483 Page 85 . A child's coat is made the after the same general instead principles as gown. Lesson 106. drawers (Lesson 48). and make buttonholes or sew on loops of elastic cord. 47). is edging used overcast on neatly (Lesson 57). Face waist armholes.— CHILDREN'S WAISTS AND DRAWERS. except shoulders a of ruffles over the cape if desired may be made.— CHILD'S COAT. the of the collar. Cut out (Lesson Join 76). Put 64). French seams (Lesson neck. band on drawers to (Lesson make buttonholes button on waist (Lesson 29). Sew line a bias band around waist 30). is The cape joined at may be lined or unlined and the neck. bottom of (Lesson Hem If . and sew on buttons (Lesson Fasten up back with washable buttons. S3).
little necessary to a child's wardrobe are very simple and easy to make. (Lesson 64). three dozen diapers. six bibs. and how many of each article to make. one cap. six night slips.BELLE VERNON MILK the Best Milk Lesson provide her 109. three wrappers. and a layout containing all necessary toilet articles. — ROMPERS. especially one expecting for the first time. Put on collar (Lesson 68). three pinning blankets. three petticoats petticoats (flannel). six pair bootees. and if mother has the time to spare. one kimona. INFANTS WARDROBE. CHAPTER VII. she usually prefers doing much of the work articles The Page 86 . six pair hose. pared: three (white). — Every mother should with rompers. child and saves the mother much care and thought concerning his clothes. sensible garment for the little one to play in. comb and safety pins. Make pocket (Lesson Make belt 73). Gather at knees. Cut (see Lesson 76). six bands. one veil. so below we will give a list of absolutely nec- garments and articles together with an idea of about the number of each that the average expectant mother should have preessary Six dresses. three sacks. brush. Make sleeves (Lesson 69). one coat. To it ^3800 is the prospective mother. infant's etc. usually a question as to just what they are to make. Sew up straight seams (Lesson 41). for they are a comfortable. tal- cum powder. one diaper cover.
and a rapid recovery of natural health and strength afterward. quick and easy delivery at birth. the Mother's Health Should Be the First Consideration. Hem back the fronts (Lesson 48). embroidered or neatly bound with pink or blue ribbon. Make and put in sleeves (Lesson 69). While Preparing for the Coming of the Little One. A rubber diaper should be made for protection on occasions § when you are traveling or taking your child away from home. The petticoat. Hem bottom of skirt (Lesson 48). Sew on buttons (Lesson 30). Make buttonholes (Lesson 29). but it should not be worn at all times as the ordinary waterproof diapers are not porous enough to let the air properly to the child's body. and neatly hem by hand. Cut (Lesson 76). of Birdseye linen or Canton flannel. the edges turned in and finished with an edging of lace or feather stitched. The little flannel jackets are made in one piece and the edges should be The night gown. and made as daintily as possible.Lesson 110. Diapers should be made of good cotton diaper cloth. Kimona (see Lesson 86). (see Lesson 106). and should take regularly during the last month of confinement and for one or two months after birth.— MAKING THE INFANT'S OUTFIT. This treatment is a positive aid in maintaining a good condition of health during confinement. Sew up seams (Lessons 41 and 47). follow instructions for making child's PRINCESS SLIP. Sew on lace or fine embroidery edging (Lesson 57). The coat. cut square.— The dress is made the same as instructed (Lesson 104) child's dress except very much longer. CAN anything than PHORA Read the Special Offer as Given on Page 97 Ex pectant mothers can not afford to be without Woman's Friend Page 87 . Bibs should be of double thickness. Make and attach collar (Lesson 68). or if lace or embroidery edging is not used you may feather stitch around the edge of the collar and down the front on either side of the buttonholes and many prefer to feather stitch the hem (see Lesson 18). gown (Lesson 104). be more vitally important that the organs of maternity of the mother be in a perfect state of health and strength to undergo this trying ordeal? The expectant mother should begin to take ZOAas soon as pregnancy is known from time to time as needed according to directions. both flannel and the dainty white ones are made under same instructions as Lesson 105.
0»«> ENERGINE I 'SHOE OMOINATION DRESSING" GOOD AT ALL C STORES wuwmu moms cs i ei«n. The cleaning of clothes and accessories of the dress is often a problem. M i(. You can do considerable for careful consideration mShT- ^!S>wb CLOTHES kept beautifully clean and in "crisp CUMMER'S Perfect (JAflVAS freshness" by every J^RESSING dainty housewife WITH CUMMER'S ffltCUMMEflPHODUCTSCO CltVEtAIO.«m.CLEANING. for a process or chemical that removes the spot from one material will set the stain in or ruin another material. CUMMER'S SHOE DRESSINGS The Proper Dressing For EVERY Shoe Ask Your Shoeman Page 88 . must always be given to the nature of the spot and the material.
If the article is such that it can be boiled. or if the ink — — — — Page 89 . if the stain is on a washable article. and then rinse in ammonia water. Soak in cold water. Then follow directions as for removing blood stains. Fruit Stains: Follow directions as for removing coffee stains. so the main point is to alcohol that removes the have your cloth well saturated with the alcohol. Grass Stains: Must be removed with alcohol. silks. laces. salt or flour until you have absorbed all the ink possible. and rinse thoroughly in clear tepid water. and good laundry soap. then pour boiling water through the of perfectly — — — spot until the stain has entirely disappeared. there are many garments your articles in good fresh condition. that must be otherwise your article may be returned to you ruined. or if on white goods. woolen. feathers and almost anything cleanable. furs. rubbing until the stain disappears. then wash in tepid soap suds and proceed as for blood stains. leathers. If the spot is still moist cover with sugar. stain and not the rubbing. soak the stain in salts of lemon. Brass Stains. dip It is the a cotton cloth into the alcohol. if the goods can be boiled. Cocoa Stains. We give you in these pages the addresses of first class establishments. in which has been added a mixture of equal parts of "Elwako". and care should be taken to select a reliable place. or if on heavier goods. where you can depend upon your work being properly done. then wash in tepid soap suds and proceed as lor removing blood stains. and it should always be kept on hand to keep However. "Universal Dry Cleansing" It isn't the best.THE UNIVERSAL DRY CLEANSING // it isn't CO. then rinse and wash carefully in tepid soap suds. General Offices and Laboratories \2\$ tO 1230 East 71st St. Grease Spots on any fabric. kid gloves. which will clean woolen goods. and Delivery Service. Boil from 20 to 30 minutes. Down Town Store 532 Euclid Avenue your own cleaning at home by using Cummer's Energine. Blood Stains: Soak the stains in cold water over night. silk or cotton can most effectively be removed with Cummer's Energine full instructions for its use are found on the bottle. Auto Call Call Us Up —Phones. dry cleaned. then wash in sweet milk and rinse in clear tepid water. felts. Ink Spots: There are many ways of removing ink spots. If on thin goods pour out a little alcohol in a bowl and rub out the stain. Nevertheless you will need a few suggestions for removing the spots and clothes and which you may desire to stains that are so apt to get on your try to remove yourself. it should then be put in very hot water. Rub pure lard on stain and leave for a few hours. Coffee Stains:— Do not soak or put into soap suds until boiling water has been poured through the cloth until the stain is removed.
Eruptions. Tea Stains: Vaseline — Follow directions for removing coffee stains. or to a pint of water add one-fourth pound of sal soda. For Chapped or Cracked Hands. or turpentine and ammonia. Blisters. if Wash with cold water and a pure white soap. Oil: for 24 hours. Rust Stains may be removed by soaking chloric acid a diluted solution of hydro- and rinsing in clear cold water. soak the stain in this solution for half an hour. Perspiration until the stain is — Stains: Sponge with a weak solution of hydrochloric acid. Bell Phone 2192 / [J Cleaners for Particular People Edd y r ^*^/S-r T s**n f^k C-5 Cuy. rinse in clear tepid water. Bruises. Scalds. Boils. then wash gently in tepid soap in — suds and rinse in clear tepid water. than to attempt to do the work yourself. Catarrh and Colds in the Head. Insect Bites. Burns. removed or the colors clear. Or you may soak the stain in salts of lemon. or rub out the spots in equal parts of turpentine and alcohol. then wash in gasoline or benzine. or oxalic acid until the ink has been removed. and then rinse in clear cold water. Spots: — Rub out in kerosene and wash in tepid soap suds and rinse in clear tepid water. if the material not rub wet borax over the spot and rinse in clear cold water. Machine will wash. times Common Skin all i D rice Zjc rer oox Off D D • ALL FIRST CLASS DRUGGISTS will supply you has dried wash out the ink stains in the milk and rinse as above directed. Chafes and Croup. Rough Skin. Phone Crest234 - W ump ^^ Z/^» ^§S3S3Rgg0r Page 90 Prompt Service We Call For and Deliver 13256 Euclid Avenue and 13430 Euclid Avenue . — and Paint Spots: Rub with vaseline until paint is softened. Scorch Marks can be effectively removed only by sunshine. Cold on the Lungs. — Mildew: Soak in buttermilk spread on grass in sun.Zoa-Phora Balm No Family Supply is Complete Without Known Ointment---within easy reach at this Well Diseases. Piles. and one ounce of chloride of lime. all Children's Sore Throat. but as this is a very dangerous drug to work with it is usually better to send your garment to a cleaner. Iodine Stains can best be removed with chloroform. then wash in benzine or gasoline.
to put a small time and additional expense. Princt 2906-L . where without dyeing they would be useless. if cotton or silk. as it is The color of the impossible to dye a dark colored fabric a lighter color. Old and worn curtains. you can use the same dye for any vegetable nature. This can be accomplished by boiling the goods. so that it takes day to wear off. Many old or shabby garments can be dyed and renovated and made over and months of service gotten from them. when dyeing. they should all be otherwise a variety of shades would be the In discharging or removing old colors from material that has been previously dyed. it becomes discolored. instances a few precautions in dyeing you must always follow. you have a yellow dress and use a blue dye. before putting in the article to be dyed. Dyeing Fine Lingerie and Lace Curtains Specialties and Feather Work 2420 Cedar Ave. to see if the desired shade is obtained. piece of material in with the larger pieces. and dyed a deeper shade.North 776 Cent. Phone. do not crowd the goods. the result will be a green. the probable result. so that it may be taken out from time to time. Ohio DYEING. so that in case the desired shade is not obtained. for instance. in fact making them in many cases. Snow Flake Hand Laundry The Cedar Cleaning Works Cleaning. If. Page if necessary. Boil from one-half to three-quarters of an hour in a bath containing soap. When several pieces are to be dyed put in the dye bath at the same time. and are much cleaner and dyes. the goods may be put back in the same dye bath. 90th Street Cleveland. like many other dyes. Prop. ALL WORK GUARANTEED Fannie Hamlet. rugs. changing the water when times. Do not expect to dye a dark piece of goods a light shade. fabric. and see the result. it is always best to discharge or remove as much of the old color as possible. 7420-R Doan 337-L Res. Unlike the old-time easier to handle than the old-fashioned dry powder whether it be of animal or dyes. same shade. appear as good as new and that at but a few cents of expense. thus saving It is advisable. Peacock Dyes are put up in collapsible tubes. The best plan is to try a small piece of goods fabric first. do not throw away the solution until goods are dry. In taking goods from the dye bath. They are easy and simple to use. without removing the article itself. table covers and various other articles may be dyed and brightened up. There are in all which you are about to dye has nearly as much effect on the result as the dye you use. When dying. two or three 91 . 2336 E. and do not stain the hands. but keep them moving by stirring occasionally with a wooden stick.
Feathers. Chipped Straw. Tablecovers. etc. making them much easier and cleaner to handle than the old fashioned powder dyes. Mixed Goods. making them appear as good as new. old color come discharging when will not PEACOCK DYES For Home Dyeing THE ONE DYE FOR ALL FABRICS For dyeing Cotton. Silks. etc. Apple Green . color from wool. Peacock Dyes are put up in collapsible tubes. as the newly dyed material the bright and uniform. Wools. owing to article is put into the bath of some of new color.When removing soften the wool. FULL DIRECTIONS ON EACH TUBE. worn and shabby Clothes.. By the use of Peacock Dyes in the household a great many old. as of old color is it tends to The removal very important in dyeing articles out the that have been previously dyed. no soap should be used. Rugs. may be dyed. Linens. Raffia. Basketry. Curtains.
and that it makes white clothes WHITE. get a If he does not keep it. Ask your grocer for it also. It is invaluable ELWAKO ELWAKO IN It is YOUR LAUNDRY WORK sold by most Grocers. that articles washed with last twice as long as when rubbed. ELWAKO Elwako Manufacturing Co. Cleveland. yet there are always numberless small things. or perhaps some pieces which one prizes very highly and one desires to have done at home. which does wonderful work. Bedding. Page 93 . sufficient for four family washings.LAUNDERING. whether they be Table Linen. or those ot a dainty. It is a scientific Washing Compound to be used in connection with any good Laundry Soap in accordance with directions printed on each package. Cents in stamps and we will mail you. E. You must be most careful in this SETTLES THE WASH-DAY QUESTION NO LYE NO ACID WILL MAKE YOUR CLOTHES CLEAN*WHITE WITHOUT RUBBING SOLD BY GROCERS YOU SHOULD USE ELWAKO Because thousands of other women have in your weekly washing. a package of regular size. We also manufacture CARPET CLEANER.. S. 0. If you are not now using it. Curtains or personal apparel. is not a Soap nor a Soap Powder. postpaid. 1120 Prospect Ave. send us Ten package from your Grocer.. In this present day of good laundries the hardest and most laborious part of the work can be sent away. and restores all the original brilliancy of color without injury. learned by practical experience that it saves the hard labor of rubbing and dispenses with the washboard. One 25 cent can will clean any common sized rug or carpet without rinsing or removing from the floor. with full directions for using. It contains no Lye or Acid. not gray or yellow. and will not injure any fabric. delicate texture or color.
you have a good laundry soap many of the cheaper soaps. for a badly laundered article is worthless to a particular or refined woman. least being sure that the corners are well fastened. as they will turn your clothes yellow and fade and cause the colors to run. taking precautions to always keep the garment it form or you may render unsightly by ironing out of shape. water and roll —When —Iron dry. and coarser from the finer you have a large number of pieces. You should first see that remove the dirt and stains and germs without the unnecessary labor of rubbing. Seventh. — Shave in soap together one small cake of Elwako and one bar of any good laundry three pints of water and boil and stir until they are thoroughly Third. Then always use a good laundry aid. line. — Sort over your clothes. being sure that nothing with if a color in it is put with the all-white clothes. . time and wear on your clothing. but over night better. and it will make your clothes clean and whte with a Further. blow about and tear or become stretched out of shape. where they can get the full benefit of the air and sun.— -Starch and hang on so the articles will not Sixth. sort the and wash the finer first. and soak white pieces in cold water over night. North 975 Central 3280-W Prospect Avenue and East 14th Street A Particular Laundry for Particular People Cleveland Ohio Page 94 . be careful to get good saving of labor. sprinkle with tepid is tightly and leave for at one hour. for you can wear your articles out more by rubbing them over a rough washboard than you would wear them out in a week of almost constant service. Fifth. the boiler with the clothes. acid or substance of any' kind which will injure the most delicate fabric. one which will First. that you get on bargain counters. blended. bluing and good starch and if possible have your clothes hanged out of doors. — Put fill one-half of this mixture into a washboiler containing very hot water and Fourth. —Boil two tubs of tepid from 20 to 30 minutes and wrinse thoroughly through one or water and then through bluing water. are worse than worthless. wrung out of the cold water.work. in perfect with great care.'' as it positively contains no lye. We suggest the use of "Elwako. Second.
Page 95 . does not make drunkards or a craving for stimulants. and given entire satisfaction. Present this coupon to your nearest druggist. It is indeed (Woman's Friend). Zoa-Phora contains only the best and purest Positively the best ingredients preparation. Pengelly. but Zoa-Phora is 2. write us. It does not make "drug fiends. narcotics. relieved and cured the very worst forms of Female Trouble and ailments peculiar to women. Mother. for nearly women. Zoa-Phora is a vegetable compound. The following indisputable evidence will convince the most skeptical of the merits and value of Zoa-Phora. plain. Maiden. asked hundreds of times daily honest Before using a treatment a sensible woman wants to know what she is using she is perfectly justified in demanding an honest and straightforward answer. Zoa-Phora is one of the oldest reliable preparations on It has. just what Zoa-Phora is compounded of. We to cure. — of diseases of the market for the treatment 50 years. a satisfactory. tonic to carry them safely through the various changes of womanhood. 4. — on the market. inferior preparations Zoa-Phora is not an ordinary ignorant layman. 6. known to of drugs. or any dangerous or 5. composition. If you want to be cured. No expense is spared in modern medical science are used in its its Zoa-Phora is not a secret formula. No alcohol in it to Zoa-Phora is excite the nervous system and make you feel fine for a few hours and then leave you weak and exhausted. and Grandmother find it the best woman's especially the sexual organism." as do some of the cheap. Zoa-Phora does not contain minerals.— WHAT Is IS ZOA-PHORA? is Zoa-Phora" THIS question "What women seeking asked by intelligent reply. therefore. 7. It is manufactured only of the best and most valuable roots and herbs known to science. opiates. one of the greatest Specialists of his age in the treatment of the diseases of women. In addition to the splendid tonic effects of Zoa-Phora many women need a good local treatment and in order to encourage the use of our Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones in all cases when needed we are making the following offer of a full Ten Days' Treatment of our Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones (further information on page 79 of this book). Does not this prove that Zoa-Phora is beyond question all that it is claimed to be? Write today and we will send you a copy of its formula. 8. 1. If compounded your druggist has no free box for you have him With the purchase of one Dollar-size bottle of Zoa-Phora the bearer is entitled to a full ten days' special treatment of the Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Cones which the Zoa-Phora Company are supplying the drug trade free of charge for this purpose. that you have found a treatment perfected to the limit of modern medical discovery. Zoa-Phora begins at the seat of your trouble and builds up every part of your body. Zoa-Phora is Nature's own restorative and cure. rational. Our remedies are used by the thinking class of women throughout the United States and we are giving you a few reasons why you are safe in choosing Zoa-Phora in preference to all other remedies and why you are guaranteed satisfaction. Wife. patent medicine— not some dope handed down by an the prescription of Dr. and you will then know to your own satisfaction and benefit just what Zoa-Phora really is. are not afraid to publish to every woman and to every physician and to the whole world. harmful drugs. give Zoa-Phora a chance to do its good work. No opiates or narcotics to suddenly deaden your pain and in time ruin your nervous system. Zoa-Phora contains no alcohol positively not one drop is used. Zoa-Phora 3. When you know what Zoa-Phora really is you will be convinced if you are suffering with any form of disease peculiar to women.
25 . 15621 Detroit Avenue Ludwig Pharmacy. 18503 Detroit Avenue Go today to your nearest druggist and procure the remedies you need and send the faces from the packages direct to These beautiful teaspoons axe of the favorite Narcissus pattern.50 Remedy - Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones Number Balm ----3 - . You can procure Zoa-Phora from every including the first class druggist in Cleveland. FULLY WARwill be sent you by return mail. OHIO . 11600 Detroit Avenue Alford Crocker. Marshall Drug Stores The May Co. fully warranted. and will wear a life time. etc.50 .25 . 4706 Detroit Avenue Wilson Drug Co. Adams Street Page 96 TOLEDO.. Standard Drug Stores Purity Drug Co.00 Cold Remedy La Grippe Remedy . 16924 Detroit Avenue Dole.50 . best triple plated.50 - - .DEC 19 1912 One Set of Silver Teaspoons Free To Users of Zoa-Phora Send us the front of the carton or box from any one of the packages in each of three divisions below arranged and the full set of RANTED TEASPOONS \L SIX TRIPLE PLATED.25 Digestive Tablets Stomach and Liver Pills Anti-Constipation Pills - .. full line And in Lakewood and Detroit Avenue the of Zoa-Phora supplies can be procured from Lindsley Drug Co.. 1 - Number Number Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Pile Zoa-Phora (Woman's Friend) 2 - $1. which means one Zoa-Phora (Woman's Friend) wrapper and your choice of any one of the remedies in Number Two and one from Number Three.25 - Not One Cent to Pay for the Teaspoons Now or Later Send us the three wrappers or cartons as indicated above. The Zoa-Phora Remedies 1803 Co.
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 080 524 5 .
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 080 524 5 .
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