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Coates Sewing and
Dress Making Manual
COATES & COMPANY
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nor after hours of tiring effort obtain the perfect they insure. white or black. A— Perfected. C— Tailor made.. clever pad. write us. boned with hasted seams ahove. Carefully manufactured of best materials for correct tailoring of garments in prevailing styles. or lace waists on high.00 (CSS) Eton front. white your waist. has Collar Support at If you cannotobtain GREAN SPECIALTIES We supply you dealer and send you will your dealer's. proof. boned. invisible. pliable. of thoroughly shrunken linen canvas reinforced with hair-cloth and felt. cotton. seamless belt. (new). back. has hooks and eyes. on new principle. silk Corsica. 15 cents a pair. silk *l DO. not bust measurement. washable. HEAVILY COVERED WITH PURE SILK FLOSS. chiffon. $3. if Money you are not satisfied. Black or white. New York Page 1 . 35 and 50 cents. Use one or all and fit Coat Fronls \ Save Time. ready for draping. sealed to insure cleanliness. Grean Shoulder Form and Pad 327-329 East 34th Street. A loose-fitting net lining for light. very helpful in altering or reinforcing fronts. for short coats. and the Professional Dressmaker. 00. 5 for 15 cents. fills in usual hollows around overlapping padded points for shoulders. Money. 75c.open front or hack. D— "GREANET" InvisibleV&isi Foundaiion ] E— Perfect rust F— Very SilkCovered armhole. 3 for 10 cents. guaranteed collar supports. 15 cents a pair. greatly improve appearance garment.00.^ DRESSMAKING SPECIALTIES Without Shoulder Form Long ci loulder Ready] cms Made Pitied "Waist Lining EAL. You cannot make anyone of these essentials for anywhere near the price. direct or through a reliable a catalogue oj other dressmaking helps. Designed for the trade and now sold in leading Dry Goods Stores everywhere. PRACTICAL HELPS FOR THE HOME or Made / . 75 cents. SI. Write Dept. or nlack percaline.50 to $4. 50 cents to $1. Work and Worry almost finished lining for tight-fitting waists. lias hooks and eyes. Order by exact size of Linolawn.. (1) front for long coat. in transparent envelopes. shaped. B— Produce of any shoulder effect desired. "G" Co. Bray.
'. Emblems and Monograms — Eyelets — —To and Eyelet Embroidery 14 16 16 16 16 17 17 18 54. . 3..— Solid Embroidery 21.—TO HOLD THE GOODS 3. 26. Ohio CONTENTS 1. GUjrato Nutnttan IpII Eaat 541 13TB East mtlf fctrwt COATES SEWING AND DRESS MAKING MANUAL Published by Coates Advertising Agency. Lesson 29.— Seed Stitch 1 5. Sewing on Lace or Embroid58..'. 36.'. Cleveland.— Punch Work 16.— Slant 6.— INTRODUCTION 2. 8 8 9 10 10 10 11 11 11 43.— French Knots 14.- — Sewing on Buttons — Loops — Darning — Stoting — Patching — Overhand Patch" — Bands and Folds . .— Felled Seam — Bound Seam — Strap Seam 45. and Overhanding 7 7.- 61. 35. 44. 31.—Satin Stitch (French broidery) 8 37.—Ruffles 26. Stays and Collar — Putting Supports — Marking of Linen and Underwear — Embroidery Designs in in .— Catch Stitch 12. 60.— Long and Short Stitch 20.'. 4. 59. 50. — Knot —Running Stitch — Basting — Backstitch — Overcasting Stitch 6 6 7 7 7 33. 27 28 28 28 29 Copyright 1912 by Lydia Trattles Coates Page 2 . Make Buttonholes 20 — ery Embroidery — Setting on Lace or and Eyes — Sewing Hooks 27.— Damask Stitch 16.— Milliner's Fold 39. 14.— Outline Stitch 8. 48. (£..— Shirring 56. -WORKING INSTRUCTIONS. 57. 5.— Double Folds 38.— Fagot Stitch 13.— Chain Stitch 9.— Cross Stitch 18.— Braiding 28. 22 22 23 24 24 24 24 24 24 24 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 51. 4. EmIS. Page 5 6 30.— Welt Seam — Lapped Seam — French Seam — Hemming —To Hem Corners — Damask Hem 46.— Cable Stitch 10. 32..— Blanket Stitch 24.— Piping 40. 52.- 12 13 13 13 — Cording — Seams 42.. 27.IttHtntfittfltt —loral Beginners' Voices Carefully Built and Trained lira. Lesson 1 . 49.— Couch Stitch 1 1. 2.— Rolled 53. Chevrons. 41.— PLAIN AND FANCY STITCHES. .— Hem Stitch 17. 23.— Tucks and Pleats 55.— Button Hole Stitch 25. Page 21 21 21 .— Embroidery Scallops. ". — Facings — Gathering Hem 26 26 26 26 27 27 22. . 34. 62.. 47.— Feather Stitch 19.
(D)— Millinery (E) — Lingerie 76. 80. 89. — Maternity Corsets —Maternity Gowns — Maternity Skirts GIRLS' SUPPLIES.— Coat Sleeve 73. 110.—Turn Down Collars 69. Lesson Lesson 74. 100.5410. Cleveland and Graduate of School of Expression. — Children's 136. 16.— Girl's -Gowns 104. 77. —The Young Lady's Dresses — Maternity Outfit Wardrobe 9. Curry.. 82. Costumes and Coats 77- 95.— SCHOOL Lesson " " 14 101. and Shrinking 13. 82 83 83 84 85 85 .— INFANT'S OUTFIT Lesson — Making the Infant's " 107. Cutting 53 —CHILDREN'S CLOTHES..— Aprons — — Lingerie Waists — Housekeeping Gowns — Evening and Dinner Gowns. 79. — Making of Dinner Gowns. — AND 48 48 49 MATERNITY OUTFIT.— Shirt Waist Sleeves 71.— Night Gowns — Combination Undergarments. Lesson 97. — Children's 105.— CLEANING 17.— Tailored Collars 68.— Sleeves 70. .. 65. 64.— Shirt Waists 91.— FITTING AND ALTERATIONS.— LAUNDERING 3 88 91 93 86 86 87 93 92 94 Page . SHRINKING ING..— Pockets Traveling Skirts and Busi- 46 47 47 96.— Girl's School Dress 103. President Bell Doan 1369-R 9608 Hough Avenue CONTENTS 5. 88. Lesson " " 102. 83. 85.— Children's Underwear Outfit. 8. Cuffs and Lap Closings 72.— COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS SPECIFIC WORK Lesson — Plackets —Belts and Bands —Yoke and Peplums (K) (L) 63.— High Collars 67.- —Jackets 76 76 78 79 80 81 81 PRESS50 50 51- — Sponging -Pressing 98..— Dress 12.— NECESSARY (A) MAKING ACCESSORIES (B)—Threads (C)— Sewing Thread (D) (E) SEWING AND Page DRESS30 30 30 31 313431 33 — Sewing Machine (F)— Linings (G)— Patterns — Embroidery Thread Hooks and Eyes (H)— Tape (I)— Dress (J) 35 35 Shields 39- 36 37 —Dress Form —Dress Trimmings 6. 93.—THE WELL GROOMED WOMAN. ness 72- 90. 94.— Making of Gowns 92. 86. 99. 66. Page 64 65 66 66 67 67 67 68 68 68 69 70 71 71 84. —Boning 38 40 41 — Shirt Waist Supporter — Rain Coat and Waterproof Garments Lesson — Corset Covers — Drawers " — Chemise " 81. FOR 42 42 43 44 45 45 43- Kimonas 87.. (B) — Scientific Beauty Culture 5811. 72 74 75 75 7. 57 58 60 61 61 62 63 64 64 —Rompers Coats 15.— MILADY'S WORDROBE (A) — Corsets (B)— Sanitary Belts (C) — Sanitary Skirt Protectors. 75.— Petticoats — Skirts and Underwear Without Plackets — Dressing Sacques (F) (G) " 78. Boston Dr. — Street. (A) — The Well Groomed Woman.— CUTTING. — Lesson — Fitting and Alterations.— SPONGING.— DYEING 18.Inatruflton Expression Literature Interpretation Pantomime Harmonic Training Art of Play Writing and Criticism iFlomtrp Hartlja itaaett (Swr^r) Graduate of Harroff School of Expression.
Mrs. (Real Estate) Conover. Berthe (Corsets) 86 19 53 58 51 II May Co. Mfg. Co. Cleveland Credit Clothing Co Cleveland Dress Trimming Co College of Science (Acme) Connelly Co.. (Wrinkle Eradicators) 64 26 61 64 5 84 64 52 80 40 56 56 33 2 5 31 8 34 25. (Sanitary Belt). Rosenblum Clothing Co Sanar Remedy Co (Attorneys at Law) Shop of Kimonas and Art Laces Skalla. M. L. Co. (Monarch Polish) Basch. 6 44 60 47 1 Vacuum 20 55 89 13 77 78 54 35 45 48 55 Grean Arm Pad Grean Fitted Belt Griffith Warner Hat Shoppe Warren Featherbone Co White Sewing Machine Co Wilson Dress Hook Co Wright. (Elwako Laundry Aid) Euclid Cafetiere (Lunch Club) Farr. Spinal Trouble. (Funeral Director). or are any of your family suffering from disease? If so. & C. (Ganesh Toilet Preparation) A. E. The May... Margaret B. (Public Stenographer). (Ice Cream) Universal Dry Cleansing Co Victor Insect Exterminating Co 43 75 & Florence Martha (Expression) Frederick Piano Co Fries & Schuele Fulton. & C. Raynolds Co. Main 730 Ohio Agency. (Dunham's Specific) Long. 64 38 66 32 36 62 83 96 Page 4 . (Sanitary Protectors) American Textile Mfg. even if all else has failed. (Domestic Cleaner) Swalley's Credit Store Telling Co. G. (Morlene) Korach. Co. Miller. 13. (Linings) Belle Vernon Dairy Co Berner's Art Store Boston Dry Goods Co B. (Sewing Silk) Belding Bros. Co. The process is natural and very simple. Mrs. (Dust Bright) 59 63 10 Page Hawley Restaurant Henke Furniture Co Hexter's Lining Store Ideal Faucet Syringe Co Interstate Drug Co. you will be restored to health. (Dentist) Bryson Co. Co. ' . Ohio Office Furniture Co 91 5 Oxydonar Parrish. Thus writes Are you suffering from Rheumatism. 55.OXYDONOR "This wonderful little appliance. * Call or Send 10 Cents for Postage. E. Sanche for the purpose of healing the sick. (Naiad Dress Shield) Continental Casualty Co Creme de Luxe Cummer Products Co.. T.. 337 Old Arcade INDEX TO ADVERTISERS Page Adair. 69 63 16 76 91 15 8. Wm. Priestley. if you want pREE— Books on Health. Pioneer Mfg.. (Peacock Carlton Monks. David (Shirtwaist Belts) Battle Creek Sanitarium Food Co Belding Bros. Co. Joseph. (Book and Art Exchange). E. Co. W.. Sanche's Oxydonor's and by the use of it as directed. (Manicuring and Chiropody).. A.. 68 9 72 41 46 54 37 11 Review Co. Chester (Vocal Instruction).. Phone. F. performs which border on miracles. 31. Stroud. . E. cures.. Mrs. health. (Embroidery Silk) Belding Bros. & P. Pictoral Pictorial J. Review Co. (Embroidery Scallops) Reis Initial Co. Co. ("Hair Vim") Snow Flake Laundry Shaver. (Fashion Book) B. & (Shino) (Dress Form) Co. Dr. 29 21 34 23 12 17 7 Arbor Tea Shop Art Pleating Shoppe Baird Bros. & Co. (Tape) Sons Co. Wright. Oxydonor will do it. Maud De Long (Dermatologist) Smith Carriage & Auto Co Smith Chemical Co." Edward Rigby of Lisbon. Mrs. C. & & Sons Co. Nervousness. invented by Dr. etc. (Osteopathic Physician) Morehouse Co Noteman.. Co. (Energine Shoe Dressing) Devoe.. (Katharos) Ellsworth Public Hand Laundry Reis Initial Co.. Association 7. C. Abbie E. B. (Piano Instruction) 58 20 60 93 42 73 3 ' Co G. Stomach Trouble. (Sleeve Initials) Reis Initial Co.. 95. Miss L. by all means secure one of Dr. (Embroidery Catalog). 76.. (Senora Coffee) 24 22 24 Wm. Frank (Dentist) Electra Pure Water Co. Diabetes. Young Women's Zoa Phora Co Christian 57. but as and setting of the sun. Ellen C. (Sewing Machine Supplies) Studio (Art Work) Cedar Cleaning Works Chandler. Grean Shoulder Form and Pad Grean Dress Making Specialties Grean Long Coat Front Foundation Grean Short Coat Front Foundation Grean's "Greanet" Grean Fitted Waist Lining Grean Coat Collars Fassett. & Co Lawson School of Music Lickes Drug Co. infallible as the daily rising Investigate. R. No. Pneumatic Form Co. Ohio. The C.. Restaurant Co. (Woven Names) Reis Initial Co. F. (Cravenette) 60 88 9 Dye) Dowd. H. Mandarin. H. T. 4 P. Van Gorder (Havanco Mending Tissue) Haserot Co. (Embroidery Initials) 74 50 39 65 94 14 29 28 18 19 71 Richardson Silk Facial College Elwako Mfg. Hall.. 30. N..
111-112 Old Arcade . and hiding any possible defects of her contour or carriage will work as an artist. Quigley Desks Chairs Armor-Clad Steel Furniture Cuspidors and other Office Furniture Murphy & Gunlocke Miss L. Cleveland. Sewing is an art and the woman who clothes herself with an eye to bringing out the possibilities of her grace and beauty and best points of individuality. Ohio 429 The Arcade North 1450 I. LAXATIVE BRAN BISCUITS "The samples you gave do the work ine were delicious" BATTLE CREEK SANITARIUM FOOD Page 5 CO. E. Thus dressmaking will become an Art and a Science and a pleasure instead of a nerveracking. using herself as the model and her materials. non-individual clothes simply because they do not know exactly how to cut and fit and make and finish the articles of their apparel and without complete instructions before them do not feel like risking the time and the material in experimenting. etc. as the means of presenting to the world her ideal of thought. laboritheir — ous piece of drudgery. On the other hand if they know just how to go ahead and have each step made plain for them to follow they could add many beautiful garments to To be sure much that is very helpful their wardrobe at a very small cost. without as complete a wardrobe as they would like to have or pay out more money than they feel that they should spare to get . We have made the system as brief and as easy as possible and by following faithfully the instructions and always turning to the lessons designated you will find that you have a reliable guide to the making of every essential garment for your wardrobe. L. For this reason this plain. has been written on the subject of sewing and many of our best magazines have given us invaluable information. trimmings. CO. 1145 Prospect Ave. THE OHIO OFFICE Chandler Central 332 1-K Main 1368 FURNITURE Bell. Many women go garments made or are forced to wear unbecoming. but many women do not preserve these periodicals or have not the time to wade through all the other literature and sometimes a labyrinth of instructions to find out the system of properly cutting out and putting together and finishing a dress or suit or piece of underwear or perhaps doing up a piece of household sewing.Public Stenographer Duplicating Filing Devices Tables.. S... simple and comprehensible set of Sewing and Dress Making Lessons have been compiled without waste of words or unnecessary repetitions. INTRODUCTION.
— stitches through the cloth should It will be of exact and equal length. but learn and practice holding and doing your work properly and sitting erect. Try Our Superior Service Today. W. Sit up straight. . TO HOLD THE GOODS. IV. 3. hold the work firmly in the left hand. materials. FANCY Lesson 1. The Lesson 2. . gathering. Always take stitch under the hem or seam to hide knot but in open space where this is not possible fasten thread by taking two or three stitches over each other or — KNOT. hemming of fragile garments.oOOCNO''. (3) (4) Lesson Hemstitch.— RUNNING STITCH. left hand. -.. needle with proper sized thread and hold in Wind thread once over forefinger of right hand and pull tightly. 1612 EUCLID AVENUE Page 6 .—Thread AND ORNAMENTAL STITCHES. French seams. Knots should never be visible in any sewing except in basting. FREDERICK PIANO CO. leaving the right hand Never hold the work so as to crush and free with which to do the stitches.. (1) (2) Slant Stitch.CHAPTER III. F. Running 2. .$200 Sound Proof Demonstrating Parlors Experienced Salesmen. crumble it nor yet so loosely that the stitches are taken unevenly. Always hold the goods in a position so the stitches are taken toward you. by backstitching (Lesson 4). Lesson 5. CHAPTER PLAIN. Lesson Stitch. The Proof of the Pudding is in the Eating The Proof of "Frederick Service" In the Trying is Every Record Every Victrola $15.->. Lesson 17. be in constant use for seams on light etc. Basting Stitch. and do not form the bad habit of pinning the work to your skirts and then humping over to do it or winding seams over the forefinger of your left hand.
— SLANT STITCH. Lay your cloth perfectly in place and then fasten by taking even or uneven running stitches through the material as in cut.—The Lesson 5. page 6). —BASTING. Begin next stitch exactly where last stitch left off on upper side of sewing (see cut 1). Lesson 3. Ohio West Side Branch Franyin and West 32nd Home Nursing Home Making Chafing Dish St. The half back stitch is taken half way back between the space of where the thread is drawn through and where the stitch leaves off on the upper side.— OVERCASTING AND OVERHANDING. progressive.Sewing Millinery Apply to the Cookery Dining Room Service Dietetics Dressmaking Tailoring Shirt Waist Young Women's Christian Association Prospect Avenue and East 18th Cleveland. CIk Cawson School of music and Other Tine 10507 Superior Avenue Cleveland. Point the needle toward the left shoulder and pass it through a few folds of the material and a few threads of the fold. Ohio All branches of Music and Dramatic Art taught in a thorough. This is one of the most particular lessons in sewing as every stitch must be exactly the same in height and distance apart. Voice Culture of both the singing and speaking voice a specialty. Use Slant Stitch (see Lesson 5). Lesson 4.— BACKSTITCH. From under side draw needle through cloth exact depth to be overcasted or overhanded and take stitch over and through twice to hold firmly.— Baste material with edges exactly even or if single trim smooth and even. (See cut 1. Insert the needle under the fold.—Take a few running stitches (see Lesson 2). varying the distance between stitches according to the quality and thickness The two important features of perfect overcasting or overof the material.— Begin at the right and work toward the left. handing are to have needle point at exact depth and be exact distance between each stitch. Hold your goods with the edges which you are sewing on toward you. then take a short back stitch back on the upper side and a long stitch forward on the under side. Beginners or Advanced Pupils Private or Class Lessons Day or Evening Jim Best Instruction Moderate Prices Page 7 . Lesson 6. practical and artistic manner. Making Trade Class Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister Cooking fundamental principle of all good fitting and adjusting lies in the proper basting. using two or three stitches to hold (never knot under a fold).
Belding's teed fast dve. holding your work with the needle pointing toward you and always keeping the thread on the same needle. of the previous stitch.American STITCH. thread under thumb form loop.— OUTLINE T TTVT/^O French . & CO. 528 Broadway STITCH. side of the Take each stitch back two threads on the precedtightly. half stitch is (see way back the center. New Process Embroidery Silk and every conceivable shade.Have You Tried T^T lriLLlllVJO ICECREAM? Lesson 7. Lesson 9. ing stitch and draw rather yet not enough to wrinkle the goods. If and we will BELDING BROS." write tell you where it can be obtained. in eight different twists. your dealer does not carry "Belding's.— The the cable as the chain stitch needle is made almost exactly Lesson 8).— CHAIN the top of your design and always your needle to point a towards needle through material.— Take even stitches.— Start have left New York at City Lesson 8. bringing needle through one stitch distance ahead and proceed as before. instead of at Page 8 . hold down Draw you. guaranus. take a short stitch through the material. except that drawn through at the side.— CABLE STITCH.
Seed. Y. —COUCH of STITCH. SKIRT PANELS. either the These may be obtained Transfer or Perforated Patterns Purchase a copy today at any newsdealer. Hold the threads in place with your left hand and fasten them to the material with small stitches on the right side. Send 20 cents for a sample of this work begun on special and one large needles. New York. N. The "New" Pictorial Review Embroidery Catalog is filled with ideas and suggestions of interest to any It is woman who em- broiders or does fancy work. Etc. by mail. Page 9 . Solid and Outline Including numerous designs for the popular Braid Work and the Punched Embroidery. many DOILIES. COSTUMES. Are all illustrated. Price 10 cents. profusely illustrated and contains designs for all the various kinds of embroideries. BELTS. SUITS. having the stitches in each row fall between those of the opposite row. —'Couching thread at is made by apart laying straight lines equal distances across the design. New The New of the Review Embroidery Catalog. Satin. Add 15 cents for The New Pictorial Review Embroidery Catalog. or The May Co. SHIRT WAISTS. such as Eyelet. Pictorial Fully explained and illustrated in linen. and Infants' and Children's Wear.Lesson 10. HAND BAGS. 15 cents THE PICTORIAL REVIEW COMPANY THE PICTORIAL REVIEW BUILDING 222 West 39th Street. Underin not forgetting the exquisite designs for wear.
wrong side and bring the through pattern to carrying When the be worked.— Draw the required number of threads Hold the hem and turn hem and baste exactly below last thread drawn. We insure both Men and Women. stitches The rows must be evenly spaced and the each row falling midway between those of the rows at either side of them.the .— SEED STITCH. Lesson Protect -Yourself . Schofield Bldg. unexpected piece of bad luck comes. your cash income does not stop just when you most need it.—The back seed stitch is made by taking small stitches covering the leaf or petals of a design or in monogram..— Fasten up the thread on right side. (See Lesson 11. O. THE ELLEN and C. Cleveland. Birthday. pastel or crayon.and . group from three toward you. Paints for china 10c and 15c each. Anniversary.Watt. Dainty Cards. 358 The Arcade SICKNESS OR AN ACCIDENT MAY COME TOMORROW ACT TODAY — Page 11 . High Grade Stationery.Breadwinner Then when the unforseen. At the place where the threads cross catch to thread desired down with the cross stitch. and ask us to tell you today and let us explain or call up CENTRAL WHAT FIVE CENTS PER DAY WILL DO FOR YOU.E.— DAMASK needle across STITCH. Lesson 15. also teach work. Come in 2357 -W. Lesson 14. needle under and through the hem.Mgr. Be positively and safely provided for by the largest Health and Accident Insurance Company in the world. LONG teach or paint to order. FRAMING A SPECIALTY. of the hem. laid draw through in the number of threads have been opposite direction at even distances apart another set of threads. china decorating and firing.Art We do stencil Work oil. insert the to as many threads as are desired (always the same number). Congratulations for Birth Carlton Studio 1430 Announcements and other special occasions. pictures in Book ana Art exchange 31 Taylor Arcade Monogram Work.— HEMSTITCHING. and draw the needle through to the right of the group and take a short stitch in the fold (See cut No. water-color. page 6. for exact position of needle). CONTINENTAL CASUALTY CO. W.) 16. Wedding. 1.
are. Your druggist can supply you MANUFACTURED ONLY BY The Interstate Drug Company 12 Cleveland. to avoid will cure any case of Goitre. no matter tions is unsightly and disagreeable. Thick Neck or Goitre by Tumors and for the sake of a better appearance the Double Chin. Enlarged Joints.— CROSS is STITCH. Inflammations The above statement has been so thoroughly proven that we are almost tempted to say Morlene However. its effectiveness has been thoroughly proven. Ohio Page . Morlene is not an experiment. have relatives or friends who it. therefore we want every person afflicted with Goitre and similar troubles to know that there is a remedy which is really a success in If 92% of all cases. the breathing or the blood flow to and from the brain. If he fails send us SI. you are not tell them afflicted but of Morlene. so it is always best to get rid of any enlargements about the throat whether they be Goitre. possible misrepresentation case Morlene relieves the able conditions accompanying Goitre and gives entire satisfaction to how bad or how long standing. They should know about if he wants your trade.Lesson 17.— The cross stitch simply bringing one stitch across the angle of the other. GOITRE will disappear when treated with MORLENE Also Thick Neck. and it often produces dangerous condiaffecting the eyes. to say the least. we will say that in every dangerous and disagree92% of all cases. Tumors. 50 and we will promptly deliver a full size package containing a sufficient quantity for an ordinary treatment of 30 days. Double Chin.
left line. mice. first on the right then on the left. thread stitch down directly on downward to left the of the mark or mark line and hold with thumb and take short or line and repeat taking stitch. 426 PROSPECT Both Phones Victor Insect 351 The Arcade Exterminating Co. to say nothing of the loss of time in trying to get the machine to work right. There's no time like the present to look the White over. White Sewing Machine Co.—LONG AND SHORT STITCH — stitch Follow exact instructions as slant 5).— Mark thread along the line chalk or run a colored to be followed. Warehouses. Our experts Our methods are used & B. It should be fumigated by our method once a year it will be clean and healthful. Penetrates through plastering. etc. O. It's just another instance of White superiority. bedding. etc. Talk about trouble why. insects. Let us hear from you. rs^J Lesson 20. rats. Churches and Stores of all germs. one-half the dis- tance depth as the succeeding one. and you can imagine the annoyance it has caused the operator. Thread Cast-off (it's exclusively White) and the difficulty vanished as if DON'T NEGLECT YOUR HOME by magic. upholstered furniture. hold thread take a short stitch through and to the right side of down with the mark or thumb.— FEATHER tailor's STITCH— BRIAR STITCH.— SOLID EMBROIDERY. Hotels. bring needle through to right side. is The double feather or briar stitch is made by taking two stitches to the right of one while the triple feather stitch right and three to the left. It is the method endorsed by the Government experts of all nations. (See cut). manufacturers of Rotary machines have had a world of trouble with the thread tangling in the shuttle race. instead made by taking three stitches to the Lesson 19. Knot bring thread. CLEVELAND. We rid Boats. are at your service. and two stitches to the left. exclusively on the C. (see Lesson except that one stitch in is taken. with pencil or Lesson 18.— the the only is equipped with a Cast-off. long and short stitch in successive rows until the design entirely filled . and recommended by the State Medical authorities as being the only absolute remedy known to Science. ONLY No powder dust left — No poison— No bad odors.— Is Page 13 made by using is the in. Happily the White experts came to the rescue with this remarkable device THREAD CAST-OFF THE White Rotary Thread machine — SANITATION HEALTH HAPPINESS Our method is of fumigation and insect extermination absolutely the most up-to-date and efficient method in use. —then Boats.
Our standing offer is as follows: "We Will Pay for Any Garment Injured Gumbac Foundations Through Washing or Re!s by Reis Ironing. If you can thread a needle you can successfully use them. Nor will they discolor or harm the finest fabric. new Sold at the Art Counter of Any Department Store Reis Initials.ed des'gns the letters. The cut shown in Lesson 25. LEARN AX OUR EXPENSE How easily the most inexperienced sewer can create perfectly stunning effects in embroidery with the new Reis Gumbac Foundations Scallops. Remarkable as it may seem.— Fasten thread by running and back stitches. and retail at a uniform price of 10c per card of to the small sizes and S of a yard to the large. Reis Gumbac Foundations are not made of ordinary paper or even papier mache.— (French Embroidery)— The or Initials. we guarantee that they will retain their shape and appearance through all the washings. especially silk will add to when working mono- Block Old English — easily accomplished 2-cent by interlacing Send us your name.— SATIN STITCH. of embroidery their attractiveness. shows the exact position of the needle. Draw needle through loop and repeat taking every stitch very closely together so no gap appears between the stitches. a name of a dealer in your city stamp and the who would most you in re- likely handle our goods. yards REIS FOUNDATION LETTERS Are made Script in three styles: Harmonizing colors gramrr. silk or cotton. You will use the Satin Stitch in making in the Chevrons. many other designs so much vogue at the present time. We will send turn our In Sizes from % inch to 10 Inches. New York Page 14 . Just moisten the back and stick on. boilings and ironings that the article on which they are embroidered will withstand. page IS. desired tone of expressive charm— an indication of character— the "intangible something" of which a woman can well be proud. Underlaying and Basting difficulties eliminated. Reis' Letters and Scallops make embroidering simply delightful with the Stamping.Lesson 21. Take stitch through material depth desired with needle pointing downward. 620 Broadway. REIS' FOUNDATION Letters and Scallops They add that much help to make your wearing apparel and household linen distinctively rich. sample strips of scallops and samples of the Reis Letters in your initial.— EMBROIDERY SCALLOP STITCH. booklets. and work over with That's all. Hold thread under left thumb forming loop. Lesson22. They are very simple. and in satin stitch is the stitch taken straight across from one edge to the other of the design or taken on a slant from one edge to the opposite edge." 1J 4 Gumbac Scallops come in six styles— 26 patterns. the scallops or embroidered edge vary according to the Often the depths of pattern or design to be worked and the outline must be very carefully followed. The material in their composition is of European origin.
Ohio . 15 STROUD CO. old. D OMESTIC VACUUM C LEANER Dirt and Dust are a Constant Menace to Your Home A of large percent of our contagious dis- eases are carried into the home by reason germ laden dust. or come to our office. The old method is to buy a transfer pattern or hire the stamping done. Upholstery. is only Vacuum Cleaner with Full Ball-Bearings and a BaliBearing Adjustable Roller under the suction the plate for light or The DOMESTIC heavy cleaning.THE OLD WAY TO EMBROIDER SCALLOPS. pleasant and easy way. 510 The Arcade Page Cleveland. etc. H. The DOMESTIC Hand Cleaner is as powerful as the best portable electric. With these attachments you have a cleaner with every advantage of an electric machine at a little greater cost than the best Bissell Carpet Sweeper. E. & C. Lesson 22. or Central 8258 K. tedious and laborious manner of embroidering scallops new. cabinet built and will the only hand cleaner The DOMESTIC is with attachments for cleaning Mattresses. When your foundation is completed then embroider according to embroidery scallop is is There and there an a stitch. Then you must pad your scallops with the chain stitch using a good filling cotton. THE B. Then a running stitch must be very carefully taken at the exact line desired to indicate the depth. is The DOMESTIC last a lifetime. For free demonstration phone Main 2463.
L. Lesson 26. Smith. See cut of Lesson 25.— Eyelets may be round. Make stitches very even and rather tight and then shape perfectly with . Bring up the the work. AND Set the needle for each stitch just outside the cotton outline stitch and draw the point through the stilettoed opening or set the needle through the opening. Run a cotton thread around the outlines with very small running stitches to hold the form.the stiletto. except that in embroidery the point of the needle is toward the edge while in buttonholeing the point of the needle is toward the cloth. bring in first the first it Page 16 .— Thread the long special and knot it at the eye. taking care to always have the stitches exactly the same distance apart and exactly the same height. send it down in the first up again in the first dot of the first row and draw the thread slightly to pull the goods together. To save time and energy and to insure satisfactory results with your work.— BLANKET STITCH. All you need to do is to moisten the scallop. Proprietor THE NEW WAY TO EMBROIDER SCALLOPS. which can be embroidered over without any of the preliminary work explained. row. Hold thread under left thumb forming loop take stitch depth desired with needle pointing downward. By needle courtesy of Pictorial Review Co. Then fastening your thread on the under side of the material. oval. for exact position of needle. 1911 Cars Remodeled with Fore Doors and Repainted to Resemble 1912 Models Telephone--East S40 1970 EAST 66TH STREET. procure the necessary length of Reis Foundation Gumbac Scallops. Either manner is correct. — Lesson 24. begin work in the upper left-hand corner of the design.— PUNCHED used for WORK. F. NEAR CORNER OF EUCLID AVENUE Smith Carriage $ Auto Co.— BUTTONHOLE STITCH. Lesson 23. The blanket stitch is the same as the buttonhole stitch only each stitch is made instead of very close together as the buttonhole stitch is done. a small distance apart. This eliminates all the drudgery of stamping your design and all the filling-in work and gives a much more desirable effect than you can possibly obtain by the ordinary methods. oblong or pointed.— Begin by fastening thread by using running and back stitch. Then send the needle down in the first dot of the second row and bring it up in the second dot of the first row.AUTOMOBILE PAINTING. press down with your hand and work over with the stitch taught you in Lesson 22. and repeat. bringthe ing the point just outside the outline stitch. Lesson 25. REMODELING AND REPAIRING. TRIMMING. then punch with a stiletto. Pass down needle dot of the dot of the second row.—The Buttonhole stitch and the Embroidery Scollop stitch are done exactly the same (see Lesson 22). drawing needle through loop.— EYELETS EYELET EMBROIDERY.
cord. Joseph Korach 1258 ^—^— & Company II. serge or linen a braid or cord the color of the material should be used. turn the naterial and repeat the stitch at right angles to the first set of stitches. you have done all of the work in one direction. or marquisette a dull silver or fine gold or soft silk cord put on with button The stamping of hole couching makes a most beautiful border or trimming. chiffon braid or cord and a long stitch on the back. evening wraps or children's dresses and can be used on any material. There infinite variety of beautiful designs and patterns now in vogue for is an Those braiding.li l —^— Page 17 . i Lesson 27. draw the thread a bit. most artistic and approved designs.^ through the second dot of the second row. so that the effect will be one of little squares. It can be developed with plain braid. so the plainest or the most fastidious tastes can be satisfied._l-Mi 1^- H I L^.— BRAIDING. bias tubing or fine embroidery or the design can be followed with the outline or chain stitch. Coats and Blouses the latest. Bring your work to us or phone and we will tell us up by either you what we can do for you. Misses' Braided in and Children's Dresses. (Braiding and Embroidering) W. The stitch used to sew on the braid is a short stitch on the right side of the For materials of net. FOURTH STREET. Braiding is most suitable and effective for a border or a trimming for waists. OHIO m^m j i ——— jj i . gowns. Braiding Ladies'. On heavy goods such as velvet. of your We also make buttons own call material in all styles. CLEVELAND. soutache. suits. To secure the most attractive effect the braid should be sewed on the edge so that it will stand up on the material. not having the time or the inclination to do this work for themselves can make up their garment and then have experienced braiders neatly and carefully carry out your ideas in any simple or elaborate design which you may select. these patterns for braiding must be most carefully done and the design followed exceedingly accurately in order to produce a satisfactory effect. bring up through the second dot of the first row. Suits. pass down through the second dot of When the second row and bring up again in the third dot of the first row.
Chevrons and emblems are very appropriate for sailor suits. such as lingerie. CHEVRONS AND EMBLEMS. Made in three styles-— Old English— Script— Block— sizes ^g inch to 10 inches. Etc. satin stitch (see you can stamp them on paper and baste them on the goods and embroider. Sold at the needlework department of every department and dry goods store or send for our illustrated bcok on embroidering and samples in your initials. boys' suits. while grown ups always appreciate their monogram neatly worked on their garments. or crinoline or stiff lessons on embroidery for the monogram work.— MONOGRAMS. will supply you with Reis Foundation Letters for any desired purpose Ask Q t the needlework department Lesson 28. table covers. work bags. household handkerchiefs. You can either get the Reis emblems. rons and monograms on a separate piece See of broadcloth or linen.Use Reis Foundation Letters for initials. etc. your monograms or We have plain and suitable for fancy letters every need of embroidery linen. REIS 630 ASHABLE LETTERS •«amo r M«»OOIf)EBV BROADWAY NEW YORK The Morehouse Co. and sew on. Page 18 . chevrons and monogram foundations and selves work over them with the Lesson 21). cutting the paper or crinoline away as soon as finOr you may embroider the chevished. and a number of purposes which present them- and children always delight in an emblem or chevron on their arm.
This extraordinary offer is made to convince every woman of the superiority Richardson's Grand Prize Wash Embroidery Silk Why your home with attractive and not beautify effective pillows when the opportunity is offered? We will give you tire this en- Pillow Outfit including 1 Pillow Top — either oblong or square Every woman wants these attractive pillows and also knows the true value of —tinted on Aberdeen Crash. and Six Skeins of Richardson's Mercerized Cotton Floss for BERNER'S ART STORE Arcade Building oniy 25 cents Page Cleveland 19 :: Ohio TOUR CHOICE OF TWELVE DESIGNS .— This Beautiful Pillow FREE f All we ask is that you buy 6 skeins of Grand Prize Wash Embroidery Silk Richardson's or trated lesson for ZDC and a The fully illusPillow Top and Back are absolutely FREE. Richardson's 1 Back for Pillow 1 Grand Prize Grecian Floss On sale at Diagram Lesson arrangement of stitches — showing and color scheme.
— TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES. The volume of sickness traceable to SPRINGS is of vast proportions. PURE ALWAYS PURE— CONTAMINATED h°nes : N ^r t 34 6 The Electra Pure Water Co. Ohio Lesson 29. IS in which respect it is very unlike spring water. None of the tonic values are lost. 2035 East 18th Street Cent.Clothes of Quality for Men. at prices absolutely as low as at any cash store. in the exact place you desire it. It contains enough of the minerals and salts to make it the most healthful of drinking waters. Quality. Cleveland. The Purest Water Sold in Cleveland ( Bacterial Tests Abundantly Prove the Truth of this Statement ) THE PROCESS OF PURIFICATION necessary for the production of Katharos is the most advanced known to science. 3241-W Cleveland. otherwise you may ruin your garment. Pay as you can spare it. THE BOTTLES ARE STERILIZED and rinsed with Katharos before being filled. then run a thread around the space you intend to cut. over cast the edges then work with the button hole stitch (as per Lesson 24).— Unless you have tested your skill in making buttonholes it will be wise for you to practice until you are in a fair way to feel confidence in your ability. A SQUARE DEAL CWALLEY'S CREDIT STORE ^"^ 424 Euclid Ave. Boys and Children ON CREDIT HERE you'll find the NEW. KATHAROS KATHAROS due to the liberation of gas during the electrolytic action. the DIFFERENT. then cut straight the slit to be worked. which is best described as being pure until it is declared impure. Ohio Page 20 . but is much more palatable and tonic in its qualities. Women. KATHAROS HAS LIFE AND SPARKLE. Springs situated in proximity to thickly populated districts are peculiarly liable to sudden contamination. Distinction and Style. Clothes of the BETTER SORT of Clothing. IS AS AS DISTILLED WATER. NOTHING BENEFICIAL IS REMOVED by the process of purification. TERMS— $1.00 I'M THE MAN That'll Always Give You Down. First mark the exact length of buttonhole you desire.
draw through cloth and bring thread loosely down to exact length desired. they should be basted on a flat surface. LOOPS. Then begin at the bottom of the threads and insert the needle under the loops and over the thread. W. Always begin a little beyond the worn places so your stitches will hold. DARNING. leaving the thread moderately loose. then fasten well on under side. and examine our Furniture and Floor Coverings. and in many instances a thread or ravelling drawn from the goods itself is preferable..— Have button hole completed first. allowing the eye of the needle to pass under first. then measure exact place button is needed. Lesson 32. as it should match in color and quality.— SEWING BUTTONS. but in mending most materials. and run your thread exactly along the lengthwise thread of the garment.— Lesson 30. Fasten your thread with the over and over stitch. and mark either with a pin or with tailor's chalk. then begin on the cross wise threads and run over and under the lengthwise threads altering the over and under stitch. continue till loop is covered. repeat three or four times or until you have thickness consistent with the weight of goods you are working on. Place button directly over mark or pin and bring up thread through holes of the buttons. such as stiff paper or thin oil-cloth. Fasten the thread well on the under side by several over and over stitches. When the button is securely sewed on wind the thread a few times around under the button and fasten well on the under side of the garment. 30th . The darning thread to be used depends entirely — — — on the material to be darned. The Henke Furniture 3001-3021 Lorain Ave. Get acquainted with our stock and new things with which our store is Let us show you what beautiful pieces can be had for little money. ON Lesson 31. HAVE YOU EVER INSPECTED OUR LARGE FURNITURE STORE? It Will Pay Come You in to Do So see the filled. In mending stockings a darning ball may be used. Page 21 Co. cor.
place piece of goods like garment under hole. and useful for making many other kinds of repairs quickly and effectively. — Stoting be is used on »%&&% WTPrfiiTi?lIli-- heavy goods. Black and Brown Ten Cents to the by package for . follow above for Garments repaired with Havanco may be washed and ironed but not Heat is the only thing that will affect it. Remember do patches. On the right side cut out the worn or frayed part and make a small slit in each of the corners and turn down evenly the edges and sew down neatly on both sides of the garment. druggists. or will of the price in stamps. silk goods and place it between the garment and the patch. not have the iron HOT. — There are many materials such as rain-proof clothing or kid gloves. OHIO . all and press with a warm flatiron. — Stoting. etc. the stitch to mended without darning or is A is thread from the cloth used and begun back from the rent and the back and forth in running is stitch a slanting line taken until the tear has been closed. . silk garments. and on a rent or cut in a material which needs patching. boiled. or that can be mended much better with the Havanco Mending Tissue than with needle and thread. Baste patch on wrong side of goods.— Lesson 33. If possible have your patch of the same material. a little larger than the hole. dry goods and notion stores. send post paid upon the receipt 1382 West Ninth Street THE HALL-VAN GORDER COMPANY Page 22 CLEVELAND. HAVANCO MENDING TISSUE The best thing for repairing bottoms of skirts and pants. and patches can be put on and repairs made on a moment's notice by adhering to the following directions: Brush leaving size it all dust from garments. and cut it so the weave comes exact with the place to be mended. Same directions goods or other goods where part is worn thin and a patch required. also mending all kinds of rents in clothing. One For sale piece each of White.. PATCHING. directions Re-seating or repairing knees of boys' pants. Cut piece of the Havanco tissue the of the piece of lay a paper on cloth over for stockings. Lesson 34.
Cleveland. Ohio Page 23 . while the ordinary fountain syringe has not enough force to it to dislodge germs.: Lesson 35. The operator can use a pint or a gallon without stopping and at any force desired. in a syringe. perfect and effective syringe ever made. Ackerman's Patent Ideal Faucet Syringe and Bath Spray The most wonderful improvement ever made j-i i !<v . all that is required is to it is drop your medicine onto this Sponge in the cup. so long found inefficient and unsatisfactory. desired to use an antiseptic or sanative treatment in connection with a douche. will last a life time. It is the most simple. the overhand patch put on the same as the is Lesson 34). You can get any desired pressure or flow of water. always ready. if necessary. y\ '. It is entirely unlike the old style.. no cumbersome water bags to get out of order. convenient. With this Ideal Faucet Syringe you can get the same results. screw on cap and attach to end of rubber tube before putting on the spray and then screw on the vaginal pipe and the whole stream of water is medicated with the medicine. in washing off dirt from the porch.— OVERHAND ordinary patch right side (see PATCH. which is controlled by a valve. A lady. the goods are heavy and not It is often washed. IDEAL FAUCET SYRINGE COMPANY 9601 Cedar Avenue. economical.-.•> . as there is no limit as to the supply of water. will use the lawn hose with such force as to drive everything before it. a which has and when sponge in it. except that the patch to a overhanded on the and the underside neatly cut down good seam and pressed. clumsy fountain syringe.. and the force of the stream can be regulated to suit the purpose for which it is used from a drop of water at a time to a pressure of 50 pounds..— Where may be used. Can be used for everything a fountain syringe is used for. sanitary.. whereas with the Ideal Faucet Syringe you can obtain any desired force. — The Ideal Patent Cup Attachment.
DOUBLE FOLD. or back stitch or the edge when of material that does not fray can be left raw or pinked. Lesson 40. Good Try Our Home-like Baking QUALITY HAS BEEN OUR SUCCESS COFFEE Page 24 . Trim the under edge narrower than the outer. 41.Lesson 36. considerably on tailored suits. Take your bias band twice the desired width and fold so the edges come exactly together.— BANDS AND FOLDS. or they may be protected in various manners.— Cut it the bias strips twice in as wide as desired. When the fold is lined. Seams can be joined by machine stitching. Fold over the top edge.— MILLINER'S FOLD. —PIPING. chain running stitch. 4679 K Tables fnr Ladies DRINK Griffiths Restaurant 1022-1028 Prospect Avenue SENORA Always the Same CLEVELAND. Great care must be taken that the stitches are not too fine on tailored seams. — Piping is made of bias strips folded in the center. & N. and cutting diagonally. 0. — CORDING.—A true the material with the straight edge of the top lengthwise fold exactly. SEAMS. Baste and sew on either by machine or by hand. and is an easy manner of disposing of the tailored seams. which is beautifully made at and ready for use. such as binding or overhanding the raw edges. — an exactly even depth under the fold. but the stitching must be very straight and very even. the bias strip to emerge. or by making the felled or French seams. make a narrow turn up of the bottom edge and bring it up to cover the edge turned down.— Cut Lesson and basted N. Sew up the seam in any of the ordinary ways described in the preceding lesson. obtained by folding on the selvedge or straight Folds and bands are used very neat trimming. On heavy goods that do not ravel or fray out to press back the edge of the seam. ends. the canvas is basted in and the edges of the fold fastened down with the catch stitch. turn down the fold and sew neatly just below the cord. Hold the cord so cannot become twisted and place the exact center of the fold. FELLED SEAM. — — Cent. Lesson 42. and are width and join the diagonal bias is Lesson 37. allowing only the edge of The piping may be lined or unlined. — — Lesson 38. and silk thread should always be used to join the seams of a garment made of wool goods. Ask your dealer for the W. Lesson — — stitch. as they make a Cut your bias strips the desired easily made. and then turn under the edges of the fold and stitch with one or two rows of stitching. your bias bands two and one-half times the width desired. and stitch on either side gives a very good finish. With a narrow turning fold the broad edge over the narrow edge of the seam and hem either by hand or on machine.B. piping. 39.
— TO CORNERS. and cut the material in the fold and hem — — HEM the bias edges. 50. Stitch near the edge of the upper lap and again one-half inch back. turn garment and sew on wrong side taking seam of depth to entirely inclose the first seam. STRAP SEAM.) side of Page 25 . very simple.— The proper material for binding the edges of seams is bias bands of silk. For the ordinary hem begin by making a narrow turning. Turn back the wide fold and baste down the narrow edge and stitch with one or two rows of stitching. or hemstitch (see Lesson 17).— THE BOUND SEAM.— To hem square corners. HEMMING. or running stitch on the right side of the garment. HEM. Much time is saved however. The W. Lesson 45. being careful the stitches do not show through on the right side.—THE FRENCH SEAM. linen or cotton. turn under exactly as for an ordinary hem. Lesson 46. Lesson — ROLLED the right side. Lesson —DAMASK at HEM. WELT SEAM. & N.— Sew the seam by machine. Then cut a strip of heavy paper or notch a piece of card board the exact depth you desire your hem and use this paper or card board for a marker. Cut either bias or crosswise strips and turn under both edges and stitch over a plain seam. Lesson 44. and cut out the underlying corners. while in others a hem is joined to a lace or embroidery insertion by what is called a roll hem. Lesson 48. & N. — Table It is linen can be very neatly hemmed by hem. Hems are made by turning the edge of the material twice in any suitable depth and the fold fastened down with the slant stitch or by hemstitching or in some instances the plain running stitch. This is one of the simplest manners in which to dispose — — — — — — of a tailored seam. binding. binding turns itself so all you need to do is to fasten the binding on by hand or sew it down with machine. Hold goods toward you and turn neatly and begin at the right and sew insertion and material together with the slant stitch.BELLE VERNON MILK the Best Milk Lesson 43. when hemming can be done on the machine as it saves the measuring and basting. When finished take a moderately hot iron and press down wrong the hem on 51. Catch the overlap of the corners of the hem to the underlap. LAPPED SEAM. for your hem must be turned exactly even. or W. The edges of the goods to be bound should be evenly trimmed and the binding basted on the edges. of Turn fold as of for an ordinary Fold back the linen the crease the first the hem and with very fine stitches. — Is used for setting in insertion. or after turning the edges for the hem fold toward the center. Lesson 49. and overhand the end. Baste down then hem with slant stitch (see Lesson S). leaving just room enough to catch the stitches nicely. Trim evenly and narrowly. -Make a plain seam leaving one edge wide and one edge narrow. Lesson 47. A lap seam is as its name implies one seam lapping over another. (See Lesson 5. yet deep enough so the turning includes all the edges. overcast using the damask hem.
either N.— RUFFLES. Muffs. Pleats are made the same as tucks. Dressing Sacques. Neckwear. Use a bias band. Fancy Waists. Etc. accordion pleating. made of goods without a finished edge edge must be neatly hemmed the Art Pleating Shop 438 Old Arcade Cleveland Page 26 . tape. embroidery. The White Sewing Machine is provided with a tucker with which you can easily both regulate your tucks and the space between the tucks. A first class sewing machine is provided with a tucker that can be gauged for any size tuck you desire. Children's Dresses. PL E ATI N G Accordeon Pleating and Side Pleating made in the newest effects for Party Costumes. lace. In underwear the W. FACINGS.— SHIRRING. Lesson — GATHERING. House Gowns. so it is not necessary But to make to baste in your tucks after a little practice on your machine. lay a damp cloth over them and press so they will keep their fold nicely. TUCKS.spaces. Place the right side of the facing against the right side of the goods and sew firmly with machine or by running stitch. Etc. tucks by hand you must make a marker and fold exactly on the line and — — sew down carefully by machine or with running stitch. unless you have a pleating machine of your own. a piece of goods cut either across or down the weave of the goods will do.— Divide rather make a 53. Lesson — — straight — Lesson 54. at Lesson 55. bias tape is most useful in innumerable instances. Turn and sew down either with machine or with slant stitch. then heavy draw goods on gathering string into exact position desired. chiffon or any of If the ruffle is to be sheer materials. In this instance the edge of the embroidery or lace must be heavy enough to entirely cover the edge of the material of the garment. or the work will not look neat. B. only you must always baste down your pleats. Dancing Frocks. Always draw the ends of the threads through to the underside of the garment and tie carefully. or on a seam.— Is simply from two to as many rows of gatherOn most materials it ing as desired. Maternity Dresses. And many styles of Pleat ings for Trimmings of Dresses. embroidery. Hats. Lesson 56. Facing of lace or embroidery around the neck or arm hole of sleeves is sometimes put on the right side making a trimming or finish. your goods into two or four even knot and use the simple running stitch. can be done as successfully on the sewing machine as by hand and very much quicker. & N. side pleating and sunburst pleating must be done but all a pleating establishment. Waists. Street Dresses. — Ruffles may be made of straight or bias goods. 52. Where lace or embroidery must be joined in tucks sew the cloth so the seam will come in the fold of and under the tuck. Embroidery or lace may be used for facing on some articles by following the suggestion of cut which is done in the same way as the ordinary facing.
Or again the ruffle may be inserted in the hem by placing the right side of the garment and the ruffle together and turn hem back to In very fine the wrong side of the garment. & N. Lesson 48). to the necessary fullness and by placing the right side of the material and ruffle together and sewing firmly. belts. where hooks and eyes. ZOA-PHORA STOMACH The Scientific AND LIVER PILLS and Effectual Remedy for Biliousness. B. The Wilson Dress Hook and Eye is easy to hook and unhook. gentle cathartic fL-J^y^-* & - RememberZOA-PHORA Stomach and gratifying results. snap fasteners or buttons can be used. taking pains to catch through the narrow hem on the underside. children's garments or any purpose. On page 32. put the right side of the lace to the right If the machine is to be used put the edge side of the material and overhand. and cannot rust. (See Lesson 48). which is done exactly as overcasting.. make a second turning and hem. bias tape. Lesson 58.— If the lace or embroidery is to be put on by hand. Lesson 57. sew hook so often happens with the ordinary hook and eye. work a ruffle of lace or embroidery may be put on with the whip stitch (see Lesson 6). Cut out goods Carefully baste down hem over edge leaving enough only for a narrow hem.— SETTING IN LACE OR EMBROIDERY. or with a piece of the W. ZOA-FHORA KALAMAZOO. either by gathering (see Lesson 52). N. See page 96 for partial list. Liver Pills CO. of the wrong side of the lace or embroidery to the edge of the right side of the hem and stitch. For sale at all first-class druggists. MICH. Lesson 59. which we recommend for skirts. Props. turn hollow side (see — Page 27 .— SEWING ON LACE OR EMBROIDERY. where an ordinary hook or buttonhole would be placed. or the ruffle may be sewed on the right side and covered with a bias band. and stitch on right side. of insertion.— Baste the lace or embroidery on the right side in the exact position desired..Moth 71. Or the lace or embroidery may be set in by using the roll hem. waists. PRICE. and all Disorders Arising from a Sluggish Liver and Imperfect Digestion. They are flat and invisible and never slip open as To sew on. quick. you will find a cut of the Wilson Dress Hook and Eye. and if desired an edging may be sewed on either by machine The ruffle is attached to the garment or neatly overhanded (see Lesson 6). dresses.— SEWING ON HOOKS AND EYES. The White Sewing Machine has an attachment wherewith the hemming is done and the lace or embroidery sewed on with one operation. When the food is not being properly digested and the Liver refuses to work and the whole system becomes clogged with poison and you need a good. undergarments. Liver Pills Stomach have been used for over half a century with most For habitual Constipation and Bowel Trouble use the ZOA-PHORA Anti-Constipation Pills. Headache. 25 CENTS.
00 for 144 $1. navy. the hosiery. The stitch used is simply sewing over and over through the small round holes of the hook and eye. $2. The Warren Feather Bone for stays or collar supports can be stitched by machine into the lining of the article to be boned. St. besides being a substantial stitch to hold the boning secure. REIS' WOVEN NAMES are machine woven <>n good quality white "a m hi ic tape in either red. uji 100 200 Names for $1. The gauze.75 If your dry p><<ds store cannot take youi orders send youi order with remittance direct to us. very quickly and easily done.25 IV arr-. REIS & BRO. aprons and children's clothes. is This or the Reis fully embroidered articles.— MARKING OF LINEN UNDERWEAR. They never wear out. in a REIS' ENGRAVED NAMES t'anilin. in the most elaborate gowns. and sew the eye where an ordinary eye or button would have been placed. for they are perfect and durable and will stand the boiling and ironing of the laundry without being damaged in the least. However.. in fact all laundered garments should be marked with the name or at least the initial of the member of the family to whom the article belongs. woven initials made on woven tape which can be neatly overcasted on the inside of the garment.- Printed from Engraved Black on fine Tape: WOMANKIND no medicine will. s accident. Broadway and Bleecker ®*s NEW VCKK o^v/rv. Lesson 61. lingerie and handkerchiefs beautifully monogrammed or with carecuff. G.— PUTTING IN STAYS AND COLLAR SUPPORTS. which gives the inside of the boned' article a very pretty finish. initials plainest form the distinctive mark which The Reis foundation washable letters lends dignity to the or the Reis initial medallions should always be used.toward the cloth and the straight edge toward edge of cloth. What MARK YOUR GARMENTS WITH REIS' WOVEN NAMES Vonr garments should hear your name. by procuring the Reis woven names. but a more attractive way is to use the catch stitch (see Lesson 11).. Men's shirts should be marked with an embroidered initial just above Linen. as are the ordinary hook and fastener.i different style letters. prevents loss by laundries and hotels. Every garment and piece of linen in your home should be marked. fleeze lined and woolen underwear. ami will identify you in case of REIS' NAMES come in si jj. It saves annoyance.25 for 72 Names Names Plate-. Lesson 60. JL22Z Pa ere 28 . You can get these letters or monograms in nearly any shade or style and all you need to do is to baste them on your fabrics and work over them with your embroidery cotton or silk.sewn to an i Sm Phora won't do for garment. as well as in the simplest. ami are easily cut apart anil .es for $1. many prefer to use the feather stitch (see Lesson 18). light hlue Mark and can he had in several .
(Braiding and Embroidering) Cleveland. white. G ReiS & BrOS. Lesson 62. However should you prefer to have the embroidery done by more experienced fingers than your own or have not the time to devote on that part of the decoration of waist or gown you will do well to take it to your local embroiderer where the work will be done by trained hands who make a specialty of lessons together with full directions for of embroidering. in all styles. Reis' Initials elimate all this work. CJA11 you have to do is stick them on and work over with silk or cotton. (CLEVELAND Sixth City initial sleeve or pocket of shirts. navy. embroidered initials are very beautiful. We also make buttons of your own material. Price. dresses or wash suits which meets the refined feminine approval more than embroidery designs.The Hawley Cor. m.. each or 3 for 25c. Clair Ave. On nearly all smart garments from the marquisettes and sheer chiffon and silks and dainty lawns to the heavier materials and all wash goods you will find at least a suggestion ranging from the pretty French knots and the simple outline and chain stitch following the simplest of patterns to the most intricate. but pretty AVERYon the fad to have the Hand Regular Dinner. m. N. There is no trimming or ornamentation for waists. ii red. requires artistic ability and much to make an attractive design. etc. St. but all of the stitches ordinarily used will be found in this series stamping and making the garment. Served from 11 25 Cents to 2 p. Our experienced embroiderers can work out in perfect effects any design you may choose for any purpose Either machine cr hand work. The designs and stitches used will depend entirely upon the taste of the individual and the style and texture of the garment. work a. 630 Broadway. pajamas. Joseph Korach Both Phones 1258 Page 29 & Company W.— EMBROIDERY DESIGNS. Ohio . 4th St. 10c. beautiful and elaborate creations. lavender and black. and ^-* R "IS • it 9 EMBROIDERED SHIRT INITIALS is West Third St. green. Y. Embroidery Send or bring us that piece of Embroidery that you do not know how or have not the time to trouble to do.
) 39.) 38. MACHINE Avenue Phones CHAPTER XI. Before beginning the making of a garment. but and a large spool of white basting thread and a spool of colored basting thread to use where it is not expedient to mark with a pencil or tailor's chalk. DO DON'T DO WHAT Vibrator. 11 Wheel (A) 40 and 41. NECESSARY SEWING ACCESSORIES. and ? learn how much easier. with ordinary care will last a lifetime so the greatest of caution should be used in selecting one. Botti WHITE SEWINGNo.) 36.) 41. (Cotton) Thread. — Hooks and Eyes — Patterns 15 — Linings. (See page 18— Trimmings. the thread should just pass easily through the eye of the needle. (Basting) Thread. better and quicker it will do your sewing. or where a line of tucks or trimming is desired. (See page 21 — Dress Forms.Buy a Sewing Machine before you see the WHITE. (See page 19— Dress Shields. On the other hand do not attempt to use a coarse thread in a fine needle or a fine thread in a large needle. (See page 16— Stiffenings 17 — Tape. Rotary Shuttle IX! We and "Sit-Strate" Machines. reliable and reputable make can be purchased. (See page 20— Boning. provide yourself with a variety of sizes of cotton spool thread Be sure and Page 30 . shall be glad to show it up and let it speak for itself. gather. (See pages 12 13 14 34. quilt. see page 31D). It is always a bad investment to buy an inferior. A modern machine is supplied with attachments that will hem. hemstitch and in fact do nearly everything that the human fingers can do in this line and a wise woman will keep her attachments always on hand and use them whenever possible for they will save her hours of useless labor. see that you have the necessary accessories at hand with which to do your work. Chalk — Skirt Marker. A good sewing machine (B) THREADS. The articles usually required are: 1 2 —Cutting Scissors — Button Hole Scissors Stick 3— Yard 4 — — — 8— 9— Pins 10 — Tailor's —Tracing 5 —Tape 6 7 Line Needles Thread. cheaply made machine when for the same money or a few dollars more a first class.) SEIWNG MACHINE.) 37. (Silk. 426 ProspectCO. made in One is of the greatest mistakes is sewing is the use of a needle that too large and thread that too coarse. Your machine must be kept perfectly clean and well oiled and by keeping the tension adjusted just right you will not need to give it much further attention.
and so available only for White at the value to buyers. and It may will always retain its original shape. not be generally known that silk is the strongest fiber known to mankind." write tell you where you can get it. the results to be obained will more than justify the difference in expense.. and so if you are progressive and desire to do your sewing under the most advantageous conditions. a seam sewed with silk is infinitely stronger. consequently. & CO. count of its great strength. requisites in dressmaking is the thread used in sewing the seams. cloth. Pure costs One of the (D) most important SEWING THREAD. Great care may be used in selecting styles.DON'T GUESS you as a Sewing Machine user of the White Tension Indicator but see it for yourself. and made in every conceivable color and shade. will give to a stress. Embroidery silk will give that rich. and while embroidery silk more than cotton or any of the other substitutes. and we will BELDING BROS. PROSPECT AVENUE EMBROIDERY THREAD. on acproper texture. if the thread is not of the Silk thread is particularly adapted for seam making. and that a yard of pure silk thread will stretch from two to three inches. whereas a cotton or linen thread has no "give" or "stretch". is strong. If us. 528 Broadway NEW YORK There hook and (E) HOOKS AND EYES. Be sure to drop in and see it at first opportunity. WHITE SEWING MACHINE BOTH PHONES (C) 426 CO. With it you can do work that can't possibly be done on any other machine. elasticity and fast color. is made from your dealer does not carry "Belding's. lustrous and beautiful effect that cannot be obtained with any of the imitations or substitutes. etc. and yet the results will be disappointing. is The kind of embroidery material all important. trimmings. then you'll need the WHITE. BELDING'S SEWING SILK the finest quality of raw silk. silk will wash and wear without fading. they are always unsatisfactory and a garment not properly is — Page 31 . smooth and elastic. no greater extravagence than to invest in a cheap worthless eye. It's exclusively White.
omng. and eyes. best thing to do to make sure that This Embarrassment Can Never Come to You if You Use the hooks that can't "pop" open accidentally or allow the dress to gape and spread. lation to They are truly a reve- on Dress. "Thank you.. Ohio hooks are sewn. Cleveland.** 198 St." women accustomed to troublesome hook-.* invisible they never pull they do not leave the usual "bunch" which tells where other yf' Cleveland. So flat .. its Many to of the common The brands of hooks and eyes will rust and leave marks on your garment. card Wilson Dress-hooks. 10c several garments. the back is always smooth. Page 32 . free. 1 My er's Deal- Ave.E. garments Address J The Wilson Dress-hook Company 198 St. neatly closed and perfectly flat if you use these un ique hooks Though you can unhook them with per. E. . while others L-oi. They are Wilson Dress-hooks. J His Address. — Black. 10c a My Name Street Ask for Wilson Dress-hooks on all ready-to-wear . upstairs and I'll run fix it. Clair * y* ^* Town .N. Outwear Tlense send. out beyond the edse and show. making them invaluable on wash garments. Name J. Gray.State..kooks FuBI-Size Card Sent V.ig not go through the is laundry without pieces. N. fect ease..'ilson i pppp H E» d Fill Out This Coupon . O.. provided you have not previously had a free card Dress-hooks are guaranteed not to rust or crush in washing The Wilson and . No matter how loose or tight your garment. snap fasteners or buttons. oard of one dozen.ClairAve. Always Dress-hook Co. Black and White colors. White) previous sample Sold at notion counters everywhere (remember the orange and black card) Large and Small sizes. Can not catch on trimmings. — will fastened is ruined.
silks in large and dress things. realize the These women Each season fabrics finds here the newest of cloths. place. to the style book and pat- We mention: Conovers' Naiad Dress Shields Warren 's Featherbone Wilson's Hooks and Eyes £5? Embroidery Foundations Coat Fronts. is at hand. the quality of thread.. Page 33 . because we make a specialty of all the little the linings and findings. and always and pleasing assortments. Coat Pads. Shoulder Forms and Bust Forms The Ladies' Home Journal Patterns Reis Bros. the kind of hook and eyes. importance of the little things not only the quality and style of fabrics. but the finish of lining.— you have a brand that in will not rust and that will positively hold your garment recommend and use in our demonstrations the Wilson Dress Hook and Eye. all the best of such are here. And. which we find is always reliable and satisfactory and costs no more than any other good fastener. Co. We Specialists in Dressmakers'' Supplies '"THE BEST DRESSED and making of their WOMEN are most often those who take the keenest interest and pleasure in the small details clothes. Every convenience tern. shields and dozen other seemingly trifling details.
It is naturally the most beautiful of all fabrics for lining purposes. as is in the exterior. effect in the lining of a coat (F) It is just as essential to it have a satisfying Silk is or jacket.Belding's Pure name on the selvage. & CO. No fabric will wear as well as a pure dye silk fabric. 528 Broadway NEW YORK CITY LININGS. Look for and accept no substitute. cloak or garment. on account of the practice of adulteration or weighting. you are assured of a If your garment does not require a or satin lining. very difficult. BELDING BROS. satisfactory lining for your suit. for the average person to wear well. Dye Guaranteed Satin the every yard guaranteed to give satisfactory wear. In order to overcome this difficulty. however. some of the most reliable silk manufacturers are weaving their names in the selvage of the lining as a guarantee of wear. Belding's Pure silk Dye Guaranteed Satin. you should take into consideration the HEXTER'S LINING STORE Dress Makers' Supplies and 1 Tailors' Trimmings " "Everything for your Dress but the Goods 153-155 Arcade : : Euclid Avenue Entrance Page 34 . select silk linings that will By procuring reliable.
To all those who have not tried them it seems impossible. fitting. you will find it easy to cut and fit and make any garment you may desire. 327-329 East 34th St. Sour Risings. the seams are very loosely stitched. white and grey percaline. Heartburn. as it eliminates the endless preliminary fittings. asking them to show you their newest and most appropriate linings for the purpose which you desire. If you are lining a waist that needs a fitted lining. where a fitted lining is not desired the Grean Invisible Net Foundations will be most valuable to you. have hooks and eyes in the back or front. overcomes all obstacles. or professional have to suffer before they attain the result which you obtain in a ready made Grean Fitted Waist Lining. Always get your pattern before buying your goods if possible.. for often you can save a yard or so of goods or save yourself from running short of material. Dyspepsia. Nausea. This & 51 - 00 name Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Company. The cost of a pattern is so small and the help they give so great that you cannot afford to take chances of wasting your goods without a pattern to guide you. They are made in linolawnblack. Bloating. \J XV A Digestive Tablets See ?oT 96 special offer For Indigestion. /A / \ ± ±J. which is ready for use without having the trouble of cutting. and all Disagreeable Symptoms arising from a Disordered Stomach. Every person should buy one of grey percaline fitted to herself. finish it. boned.FITTED WAIST LININGS is considered one of the most important inventions of the present time. and you will need to be informed as to the best. Unless you are an experienced designer. There is also a Construction Guide. They are all finished. for if you do so you will take every chance of making a complete misfit of your garment. which dressmakers at home. this affords easy ripping if a fitting is necessary and all the fitting is done at the upper part of the waist in all instances. much time can be saved by using the Grean Fitted Lining. and have it stuffed up for the purposes of having her own figure for fitting 75c and draping in the workroom. but you may rest assured that the new. write us today ana we will supply you direct or give you of a reliable dealer who handles our line. or if it is a light weight waist. New York weight. cutter and fitter never attempt to make even the plainest garment without a pattern. the If your dealer cannot supply you. according to sty!e. so with this Manual of Sewing and Dress Making and a Pictorial Review Pattern. by knowing exactly the — required amount to make the article in question. Belching of Gas. 25 cents per box y (^ jTV " pTTfvn l\. Be careful and purchase the exact size or exactly what your measure is around the waist and you will have a good fitting lining. (G) PATTERNS. quality and texture of your material and go to a reliable lining store. illustrating precisely how to put the garment together. but above the boned portions and on the shoulders. Page 35 . and in white and black Corsica silk. but simple principle which is embodied in the Grean Waist Linings. boning. putting on hooks and eyes and finishing. Always select a pattern exactly your own size don't get one a size too large or a size too small. as new linings are constantly coming into fashion. With every Pictorial Review Pattern you will find a Cutting Guide show- ing exactly how to lay on your goods to the best advantage and how to guard against making any mistakes in cutting. Pain or Distressed Feeling in the Stomach.
Silk. &N.— (H) It is TAPE. Dept. TRADE MARK REGISTERED Once used Always used Beware of Imitations AT ALL DEALERS A is very useful article for piping. for the binding around the neck and armholes and many other purposes. E. almost impossible to make any article of wearing apparel without tape. not shrink.. a necessity in the home sewing room." Bias Seam Tape Are you taking advantage of its Cambric and Lawn. 13 widths Pure Linen and wide) usefulness. i in highest grade n - to 1 in. Made "W. also in India Linon. to }A in. wide). F." Bias Seam Tape INDISPENSABLE IN THE SEWING ROOM Saves half the work making a garment. while on your skirts your seam must be bound. showing colors. For the waist you will need it in many instances. Mf rs . Sample reference book free. & Sons Co. 4 widths (5-16 in. Wright 40 Lispenard St. Page 36 . Wm..? White and (*4 colors. NEW YORK. widths and quality of materials. finishing or It will binding seams on all materials and for fagotting. & N. and for this BIASSEAHTAPt It turns itself "W. for the support for the hooks and eyes.
Narrow Bias Seam Tape means an additional wear of many months. stores or sample pair on receipt of 25 Tl 1 he f* T* /"* t. there is an odor from the rubber of the cheaper shields that is very offensive to a refined woman. you will see this tape neatly put on with the tiniest of slant stitch making a support just below the scallop of the embroidered edge and you will find it most satisfactory to follow their example. & N.I!. which is ready for use and turns itself so the edge is always neat and even. Added to these the fact that an unreliable shield will not wash and cannot be kept sanitary makes it imperative to procure a good reputable shield that can be relied upon to protect your gown or jacket. which nothing in the world of the kind can rival in daintiness and beauty. (I) DRESS SHIELDS. And then too. 101 Franklin St. you will find that a support of the W. On the Parisian lingerie. and when you have an embroidered edge to your garment as seen in Lesson 79. tOnOVer LO.. & N.. Page 37 . Bias Seam Tape.— purpose no tape answers so well as the W.N. At the cents. It does not deteriorate with age and fall to powder in the dress can be easily and quickly sterilized by immersing Guarantee with Every Pair in boiling water for a few seconds only. instead of facing. f* Manufacturers. protecting your garments shield reliable When dress — so many the The Crowning Attribute of Lovely Woman is Cleanliness NAIAD DRESS SHIELD SUPREME Beauty ! IN Quality ! Cleanliness ! POSSESSES two important and exclusive features. We use in our demonstrations and always recommend the Naiad Dress Shield. On your underwear you will need it to bind over your embroidery ruffles.Y. of from perspiration be sure and select a cheaper shields on the market today are anything but satisfactory and the ruined waists showing the stains just below the shields are a result of their use.
Michigan Page 38 . giving permanent shape To bone a waist Send for requires less than 10 minutes our Instruction Booklet with attachment for machine FREE When buying waist-bones. collar-bones. for all tailors use only the Warren Feather Boning.(J) BONING. as best known and most reputable boning on the market. insist and leaded dress weights that they are u -ip^M&tt" YtMendif£u Three Oaks. collar-foundations. Girdles and Collars because Stitching bone in on by machine holds the place. Linings. first it makers and subject of boning can be quickly disposed of. The class dress- is by far the (The Perfect Boning) for Waists. girdles collar-sets.
For waist. It relieves you of tiresome standing hour after hour for fittings. It is the practical invention of a woman and consists of a nonleakable air chamber made of specially prepared m and well covered rubber cloth. and enables you to study your own form while you work upon your own garments. nothing can possibly take the place of Pneu Form. containing full description and prices. serves for any number of persons by simply changing the waist lining. you simply inflate it inside your fitted waist lining and before you stands YOU shoulders. jjBK fitting and holds draping it all Page 39 . Pneu Form is mounted on an adjustable standard rod which may be raised or lowered to the exact height desired. bust and hips with looking glass — — fidelity. you do your own dressmaking or have it done at your home you should by all means provide yourself with a Dress Form. Pneumatic Form Company J.(K) If DRESS FORMS. If you are ^eiiftxriii It's You The Wonderful Pneumatic Dress Form Sold In Many First Class Stores Pneu Form is the easiest and handiest dress form the world to manipulate. but to save yourself the time and the tediousness of trying on your gowns. To make Pneu Form perfectly.6th St. skirt and dress making and fitting or for dress repairing at home.. not only as a means to secure correct and perfect lines and insure a well fitting garment. reproduce your form. One Pneu Form. 557 Fifth Ave. Write today for new illustrated booklet' "It's You." Edition H-I. near NEW YORK Nothing so good for skirt And base this little box tlwi S».
and the fit of your garment is of far more importance than the quality of the material. $3.50. and will last a lifetime. stands without tiring. for during the tedious. and YOUR VERY IMAGE in lines and proportions can be reproduced with a Hall-Borchert and Majestic GUARANTEED Perfect Fitting Dress — Form — Every style included Adjustable and Non-Adjustable— of which we show a large variety for every purpose and figure. can be adjusted at neck.00. $10. $8. Euclid. With a dress form which reproduces your own lines perfectly you will be able to get a better fitting garment than if it was tried on yourself.50.00. Dress forms are now considered just as necessary just as indispensable to equipment of t . and get the benefit of Notion Dept. $1. hips. If you sew. $12. conforming to any size or shape desired. — — t^ —of trying to see dress fits in the how your back or how —effectively by the use of the skirt hangs with the aid of a looking glass need no longer trouble you if you have a Dress Form of your exact figure. Correct model bust and dress forms at $1. saves time and annoyance and its cost — many times over.. tiresome fittings you change position so often that you are liable to change your lines. these economical prices. Skirt can be adjusted to any style and can be raised or lowered to any desired skirt length.00 and $15. have a dress form by all means buy it at The May Co. $2. waist.00. simply and durably made. Pictorial Review Pattcis 10c & 15c Main EAGLE STAMPS FREE with Every Purchase Floor Euclid Page 40 ..e sewing room as the Sewing Machine.50. etc. Hall-Borchert's complete correct Model Adjustable Form is in every way up to date.00. Shears and Tape Measure. a Dress Form of proper size and shape to aid you the form is always ready.making your own gowns there is no way without assistance that you can fit yourself without a Dress Form. $5.00. main floor.
their All first-class dressmakers desirous of saving their customers' time. form. tedious woman (L) DRESS TRIMMINGS. Cleveland Dress Trimming Company ^ V^ 4 6 Euclid Ave. that a harmonious. the fitted in the old. should usually be chosen. whose beauty depend so much upon the graceful lines. When you have a gown or suit that needs trimming. You should secure a Dress Form before attempting to make any of the up-to-date gowns. 1 COVERED tooR DE R ^ ^ of Second Door East Opera House Page 41 . for and own as well. tion entirely. suitable and desirable effect can be obtained. colorless complexion must always study the trimmings and adornment of their costume and some bright color. if only a dash of it. Dress Forms made and your dealer will gladly demonstrate them to you.the entire fit of your gown be of ruined. bands and special trimmings. One can always procure such a variety of silks. and which is impossible to get when you fit yourself We show two of the most reliable reputable without one of these forms. braids. laces. do not go to the first store you happen to pass and take anything that may be presented to you. but take a sample of your goods and go to a first-class dress trimming establishment and ask to be shown suitable trimmings for your goods and often you will find something new and attractive that in the ordinary way would have escaped your atten- The plainest. most inexpensive gown can be made attractive with well selected trimming. are supplied with a dress today has neither the time or the patience to be manner. A person with a dull.
your placket binding exactly after your pattern. Wilson Hook and Eye. 1 — Cut lessly. 3 — Be careful in picking up your skirt. Kirby Building MAIN 1565 No Waiters O'Brien Building MAIN 3914 Lesson 63. just far enough the garment. Your skirt will never fit smoothly across the back of the hips if you do. C. Don't have it too long nor yet so short an opening that you immediately tear open the placket. your placket opening down exactly the right length. Home Cooking No Waiting Prices Reasonable M. reference will be made to the specific lesson treating of that particular subject instead of repeating the and over again. both edges of the opening must be faced. careful that every stitch that shows through on the right side be positive 5 and even. Do not do it carebut see that your pattern is laid on correctly and pinned securely and that you cut accordingly. The mark which reveals the inexperienced or careless sewer is more quickly and more likely to be seen in the finish of the placket than in any other part of your garment. (Lesson the eyes sewed on the under facing and the hooks on the facing of the 53). SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS In the following lessons we teach you the right way of making each part of a garment and in the succeeding lessons whenever that portion of the article is to be made. P. that you do not opening of the plackets.CHAPTER VII. same general instructions over seeking information and also taking SENSIBLE PLACES TO LUNCH EUCLID CAFETIERE 328 Euclid Ave. F.— PLACKETS. Stretching these edges means always a full baggy look. only the best of hooks and eyes. 6 We most highly recommend the notch at the right place on — See that the placket comes to the exact your making a placket. Luncheon 11 to 2 NEW CENTER LUNCH CLUB 813 Prospect Ave. confusing the one who is up valuable space with unnecessary repetitions. Page 42 7— In . to get 2 — Cut easily into it on. it be in the making of the buttonholes. The bottom of the placket must be made secure on the under side. or in trying of the stretch the edges 4 — Be —Use belt. upper fold. unless perhaps. The following rules must be observed.
No Married Lady Should Be Without This Wonderful Antiseptic SANAR REMEDY 746 Euclid Avenue CO.^XA. have improved this method by offering a seamless shaped belt thoroughly shrunk. 2j^ inches wide and fitted by gusset seams and boned Lesson BELTS AND BANDS.— YOKE AND PEPLUMS— A yoke is a very particular part of a garment to make.— BELTS AND BANDS. 64.A. You can get the Grean Belt in three distinct styles: 1 Having bones as wide as the belting. Ohio Lesson 65.band may be of one piece be of one piece lined or faced. If the belt or band is faced sew the straight strip and the facing together and proceed the same as directed above.'V K I XI -r Safe Reliable Effective The Wonderful Cleansing. If desired the belt or band can then be entirely stitched around. which is a feature not to be overlooked in wash dresses. The object of the bone above the belt is especially useful to unlined or loose linings as some of the material can be draped or attached to boning. the Grean Co. — — — effect. For the Use of Careful Refined Women A A K^ C* A\ T\T l\ T"} ^ AA. For sale by all upon leading druggists or mailed to you receipt of 50 cents. Cleveland. for ordinary belting. especially as wide belting shrinks from one to three inches to the ward. A trial will convince you of its merits. 2 With bones ejecting above the belting. cut a straight piece double the width desired. 3 With boning above and below the belting to form a pointed bodice into shape. for the draping of waists. Skirts and dresses at present are made with high belt. A peplum is used instead of a belt or band or draw string to hold down at the waist and Page 43 . but a peplum is much easier especially to fit. For this purpose wide belting is used.— The belt or doubled or may However. Turn over the under edge and hem down to cover the seam on the inside of the garment. Healing and Soothing Antiseptic Ever Used for a Douche for Practically All Female Weakness Sanar can be used without fear of injuring the* most delicate or affected tissues as it does not smart or burn and is highly recommended by many of the most eminent physicians in this country. If double. Turn the top of the folded edge toward the garment and stitch.^.
is a part of the of garment and worn outside of the In is such not instances the in peplum must be exceptionally well any and all fitted or the good. peplum — gather the waist or corset cover if it at the yaist line and put on exactly as were a skirt you were attaching. For the seams. fitting of the peplum all adjustments must be made at the joining is You should be it sure the pattern exactly the right is size about the waist before using. of the fashionable waists of today the is However. Opposite New Market Page 44 Etc. . Cut out (Lesson Baste up. style many the peplum waist. Sew up seams If If either by machine or by hand (Lesson 41). West 25th. across the chest in wrinkles let is too tight if or draws out from under the arm and too loose in the neck and across the chest take up the under the arms. All alterations for the neck seam both on the shoulders and must be made from the shoulder seams only. but cases a yoke must be most carefully 76).keep in in proper position the gathers of the corset cover or waist. Ready-to-Wear. yoke — attach collar (Lesson 66 or 68). effect fitted. COMF>AMY "Where things are as represented" A GREAT STORE ALWAYS BUSY Prices Always as 5"flK3 Low or Lower Than Elsewhere Dry Goods. tight or will Care must be taken that the peplum not made too draw up and wrinkle. Rugs. fit and alter (Lesson 77). be entirely done from the shoulder seams If it The fitting of the yoke must and the small space of the under arm seams.
which if is 3 necessary for the material which you are using. Baste in soft pliable French canvas after you have carefully shrunk it. . Grean for those who find it difficult to shape an<^ ma ke the under-collar. on hooks and eyes (Lesson 59). 4 5 6 — Sew —Sew —Sew on all trimmings and ornaments. 5. Sew on trimming. taking care the stitches do not show through. . "Tailor /ff.' ' \ vl | e_ 13C Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Company New York 327-329 East 34th Street. \f'i 1 / . Accept no imitations or substitutes.--V/ • '. write us. 2—Turn seams around lining should be of cambric — Hem down with slant - Lesson 66. . for the canvas cannot be sewed in the seam with the lining without making it a little bunglesome. 6. If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealer's. Men's coats are never and invariably made in ' \ i \\ \ \ \ i /' ' ' ' 1 ' either black or grey cloth.' .' v/m "-- / ' ' '\ \ * Collar. 2. 9. The tailored collars are rather difficult to is make 1. Press again.'/] .— TAILORED COLLARS. being careful to keep the goods and the canvas and the lining always perfectly smooth. 3. cutting it out the seam's width from the edges. but if you wish to try to them yourself the following instructions should be followed: make Cut out exactly after pattern. i underpart. Then bring the outside material of collar neatly and smoothly down. Press very carefully. turning under the edge and carefully overcast (see Lesson 6). sufficient 1 in collar to hide lining.in its proper place. It is not necessary any more to make collars of cloth to match on the ' . in the A it perfect cut of tailored collars is shown above figure.— Cut out (Lesson 76). Large stitches and an uneven turn of the material of the collar would ruin the appearance of the most beautiful suit. Lay right side of goods to right side of lining and baste. Sew around the bottom edge and the sides and turn right side out. Attach lining of collar to right side of garment and sew down by machine. taking great pains that your stitches do not show any more than you can help and that you have entirely covered the seam of the underpart of the collar and that you have kept an even line. Lesson 67. so the canvas will keep . We will supply you direct or through a reliable dealer and send you a catalogue of other dressmaking helps. / / ' . stitch. designed by Mr.' /'-'<> /jVA/ < 'C-'/y /. * -. in collar supports (Lesson 60). Collars" a regular //-^^\ A /i'/""" /A *J'f r'/x'f /'. 7.-JJ^C? Made Coat -^i ^hia is . 8. 4. unless you are experienced in tailoring. Catch the edges of the canvas to the cloth with the catch stitch (see Lesson 11). so best to buy the under collars ready made.— HIGH entire COLLARS. You will find Orean Tailor Made Coat Collars beautifully shaped and pressed. 10. W"-"^ made \ \ so. Tailor-Notch < .
20). most pliable French canvas and baste it smoothly on the wrong side of the 2 — — Cut out (Lesson 76). as Your character sketch three above stated and any questions scientifically and answered by mail. 3 — If lined turn right of lining to right of collar. using the fine running stitch slant stitch (Lesson (Lesson 5). 5 right right side side edge of to of garment and —Turn — collar under side of edge of and hem down neatly to cover seam. Ohio kind in The only incorporated College of Our students and satisfied patrons the United States and Europe. capacities. only If stiffening is necessary use cambric or the finest. business. 4 — If collar to attach of top to ment turn collar stitch. and is stitch at outer gar- edge. perfectly Strictly confidential.. softest. or the Page 46 . Price $1. 1899 abilities. America.YOUR CHARACTER SKETCH SCIENTIFICALLY GIVEN By the Expert and Noted Character Readers of the Acme Your perfectly defined College of Science — Incorporated under the laws of Ohio 1907 social Est.00. are found throughout Lesson 68.— TURN DOWN 1 COLLARS. 6 If collar is to be left separate turn inside edges and neatly stitch or sew down by hand. material. personal The Acme College 1714 of Science its Adams St. and domestic qualities and your physical condition correctly diagnosed. Toledo.
See Cutting Guide. 9 Attach where notches of waist designate. where the fullness starts. 4 Hem. Grean has designed special shoulder forms for different weight of garments from the lightest weight silk and taffeta. Baste to cover seam and sew either by hand or on machine. on and if Try al- necessary make (Lesson 77). bottom of 6— Find the 5 1 and 3. 327-329 East 34th St. the bottom terations. except the opening of the sleeve where cuff is attached must be faced back. 7 Baste together cuff and sleeve and sew in securely on machine. or face. page 51. inside the coat. The ordinary lap closing is made the same as the lap pocket. They fit is desired. . and some are not. Some are padded. High. 8 Gather top of sleeve between exact notches.PATENTED SHOULDER FORMS Shoulder Forms are used not for disfigured shoulders. and fitters must use their judgment.— SHIRT WAIST SLEEVE. gather sleeve. and Construction Guide. at the notch where the fullness begins in the sleeve and turning the right of the sleeve to the right of the cuff tack to the notch in the cuff — For No. not noticeable. New York Lesson 69.— Follow instructions (Lesson 69). (Lesson 53). but for garments where a permanent and a good shoulder They add a perfect outline to all shoulders.— SLEEVES. if you will begin to fit by first placing the shoulder form in suchposition as you would like to have your coat appear. Page 47 . thin. full- and tack again where the ness being most careful to have the notches come exactly together. (Lesson 48). — — — — — Lesson 70. Straight. as to what to use. but much of the difficulty is removed if proper care is taken in observing the directions and in- structions and paying strict at- tention to the 1 notches. Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. are basted to canvas and you wA\ save a number of hours of alterations.. Mr. 10 Sew in securely on machine. ends. lay right side against right side of goods. to the heaviest automobile and fur garments. and Sloping. 2 Baste 3 4 — — —Turn down evenly and sew on machine. 1Take a straight strip of the material. in edges of other side. 76). (Lesson 2— Baste up seams. — Cut out. 15c Per Pair Shoulder forms are made in different outlines. — — of the sleeve or cuff. page 54. Many beginners think sleeves are the hardest part of the garment to put together. 3 Sew up seams on machine and press. pliable.
but instead of facing. —Cut two straight strips. put damp cloth over and hold down firmly until you have pressed out all the superfluous fullness. Baste inside of the sleeve. or you may — Attach sleeve to lining of the cuff and turn back right edge of cuff and If cuff. Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. If more of the fullness than COMBINATION This AR1VI PAD all fitters Combination Arm Pad. 327-329 E. is an article used always by that have filling ever tried it. if the material is soft you can press out the material is hard or harsh. — Cut out exactly after pattern. The coat sleeve is made For this purpose the sleeve roll of the Grean Dressmaking Specialties will be found very useful. cuff. requires a little soft foundation. The latter is much neater and gives a more tailored finish the top piece of the cuff is sewed into the seam. but outside of seam. 4 5 stitch to than when cover seam. except that the top of the flat coat sleeve. TURN BACK Make exactly the same as for shirt made of double length to turn back or instead of at the top. are completed before attaching to sleeve. 3. —The coat sleeve is much simpler as steps exactly according to instructions of Lesson 69. designed for the purpose of correcting the general hollow parts between the Arm Hole and the Bust. CUFFS— PLAIN BAND. COAT SLEEVE. If fill and your dealer cannot supply you. Stitch your goods well over it. plain The Band Cuffs are put on the same and CUFF— (Shirt They 1 Waist). the bands are cut double width and turned back and hemmed over the seam which joins cuff and sleeve. 34th St. cuff. and seven are omitted. • — For upper lap sew on in same manner.. and put on edge of pressing board.— — Lesson 71. which is so much in vogue now. New York is c Page 48 . CUFF. It is very simple in construction. The cuffs belonging to the sleeves are sometimes a little beginner. but a few suggestions mill make it plain just as 6 how 7 awkward for the to make them.— LAP CLOSING. write us and we will either your order or direct you to a reliable merchant.. The 1 lap closing as seen in sleeve No. turning the top of strip either with perfectly square corners or in a neat V shape.— of Lesson 69. 2— lined turn right side of lining to right side of goods and stitch sides and bottom of 3 — Turn right side out and stitch again at the very edge of the —Attach as step 6 (Lesson 69). except your cuffs are either are attached at the bottom of the cuffs waist six Lesson 72. 2— For 4 and the stitch. underlap put right side of strip to right side of sleeve 3 — Turn back and stitch by machine on both sides of strips.
Hem tops and turn in bottom and both sides and stitch on garment. Croup and Protection Against Pneumonia An old proverb says: "Never neglect a fresh cold if you would avoid sickness." More suffering comes from neglected colds than from all other causes. The lap pocket as shown in the figure of the coat in Lesson 96. To keep the follows: Zoa-Phora Cold Remedy (Formerly Dr. viz. back stitch the pouch into the slit of the garment. dullness of hearing and smell. letting the needle pass through the entire thickness After a row of stitching has of threads from the bottom mark to the top. Page 49 . Penhad been a careful student of its nature.Lesson 73. convinced the Doctor that LaGrippe was (from whatever inducing cause) a sudden and general congestion attacking more or less the whole system. etc. slit from tearing into the cloth. For partial list see page 96 of this book. if taken promptly on the first signs of the disease— known by aching of the head. blurred eyes. The patch pocket. Then draw your thread from the top mark in a straight line to the bottom mark and back again on the opposite side of the goods. pain in the temples. Since the tiilly now justly famous ZOA-PHORA LaGRIPPE REMEDY. is very simple to make. rendering the disease still more difficult to treat. which treatment. SoreThroat. throat. except that their outer edge is usually joined in the facing or with the seam of the ruffle. The most trifling exposure renews the attack. cough. Back stitch the pouch into the slit of the garment and stitch on the lap. ZOA-PHORA COLD REMEDY Its improves the sight and hearing- most remarkable storing the impaired of effect is the clearing of the head. sore throat or nostrils. it should be fastened as Measure one-eighth inch above and one-eighth below the slit and mark. hut showing its greater From these deductions. headache. It does not operate on the douche principle merely drying up and washing out the secretions. and results. as seen in Lessons 87 and 107. is the only one very much in evidence these days. A NEGLECTED COLD. Repeat this process until you have firmly secured the slit— then bring the thread through and work over and over. and_ revoice. Pengelly's Sure Shot) FOR Colds. thus preventing a tedious and perhaps dangerous illness. back and limbs sometimes with chilly sensations and nausea— will almost invariably meet and control the disease. brow or cheek. Dr. The pocket should be of heavy mercerized goods made into a pouch the desired depth.: Sneezing.—POCKETS. Pengelly was led to formulate force on the weaker parts. been made at the bottom and both sides of the lap. tightness at the root of the nose. symptoms. Cough. but restores the parts to healthy action. Zoa-Phora La Grippe Remedy first invasion of the disease known as LaGrippe in this country. together with the use of certain remedies in the treatment of the disease. and at the same time increasing the severity of the usual symptoms. Sewing Apron pockets are made in the same way. Such you have in Zoa-Phora Cold Cure. A speedy and safe cure is invaluable.— Persons suffering thus are martyrs to every change of weather. These investigations. the Price 50c per bottle The Zoa-Phora Cold Remedy and the Zoa-Phora LaGrippe Remedy are for sale at 50c per bottle at alllfirst-class drug stores. and stitch on the lap. Dr. The lap must be cut on an exact grain of the goods and should be lined with silk or some light material.
or sent postpaid by the manufacturers. Always have a good piece of cotton long enough to cover the entire seam. but prevents its spotting and wrinkling so much. Lesson 75. all Sold by good dealers. Shino articles. garment to hold its shape better. especially in making a wool garment. When filled makes them The The The The The The The Shino Chemical Dust Cloth. for a good presser can straighten out a multitude of little defects in sewing and stitching. but twice is better. Very thin goods should not be sponged Sponging not only helps your or shrunken. wring out and then press until dry.— SPONGING AND SHRINKING. but your goods will Ginghams and stay fresh and in shape long enough to pay for your trouble. Wool goods should nearly always be sponged and shrunken as should ginghams and linens. Page 50 . lint and germs. Shino Chemical Broom Cover. Much of the beauty of a gown depends upon its pressing. f*. An electric flatiron is a great advantage to the woman doing her own dressmaking. and in pressing sleeves one should shrink considerable of the fulness that is apt to occur on the inside seam of the arm at the elbow. Cleveland. Shino Chemical Floor Polisher. Lesson 74. attract dust. always remembering it is almost impossible to put too much good press work on a garment. If you are not good at pressing it would be best to baste back your seams in their exact place until you get more accustomed to pressing them in place. Ohio CHAPTER VIII. to. Dampen and iron till the cloth is perfectly dry then dampen once again and repeat the pressing. Wool goods should be laid right side down and a wet Repeat at ironing sheet placed over it and ironed until it is perfectly dry. rinsing in warm water good as new. Ail 4" f* 522 ° Sweeney Ave. Simplex Mop Handle. Shino Chemical Mitten Duster. but in case one is not at hand one must always. This is a slow process. r»l| Ine rioneerMrg.Shino Dust Absorbing Articles Reduces the Labor of Dusting and Polishing One-half. least once. have a hot flat iron conveniently near. while a poor presser can make the most carefully put together garment look badly. just as a magnet attracts steel. Shino Chemical Dust Mop. linens should be dipped in water in which has been placed a handful of salt. In pressing folds always see that the fold is perfectly straight. as the result of a marvelous chemical process. Shino Chemical Handle Duster. especially anything with a mesh.— PRESSING. with dust.
There is absolutely no chance of cutting one piece the wrong way of the goods. It shows just how to lay out the pattern on the goods correctly and scientifically. we show their patent cutting guide. just as an expert would lay it out in order to cut it from the least possible material. E. (See Department 6). No chance of wasting an inch of material mistakes. 823 Superior N. No CUTTING GUIDE 4069 FOLD more than you OF 54 INCH MATERIAL WITHOUT Pictorial NAP' their need.. CUTTING. and no Mistakes are impossible with this guide before you. By courtesy of the CUTTING GUIDE 4-4/0 SIDE 6ftCK C^ POLO OP 36 INCH MflTERIflL WITH NAP BflO puzzling for hours to find how to lay out the pattern properly. — Page 51 . No chance of cutting two backs or two fronts because a careless folder picked up two pieces instead of one. 1 Before beginning see that you have every thing necessary to go ahead.— CUTTING GUIDE. cutting guide a child Review Patterns are error proof and with can lay out and cut a garment as well as an expert.Main 2189 SEWING MACHINE SUPPLIES AND REPAIRS BRYSON CO. Central 2259-L For prices on any Sewing Machine or Supplies PHONE or CALL on Expert Repairer will Call and Give Estimate Lesson 76. Pictorial Review Co. One accompanies every Pictorial Review pattern.
and one chosen with due regard for the material to be made up and for the occasion of the wearing of the garment. your is thrown out when you start to make alterations. to 2 P. but get your own size otherwise the entire proportion of your garment 2 —Provide yourself style. to 2 P. 622 Prospect Avenue ^n i — i i =ir=i i==i r=i i= ir^=: it=H Cleveland's Finest and Most Elaborate Chinese-American Cafe Shoppers' Novelty FROM 11 Luncheon A. Do not make the mistake of buying a pattern a size too large or a size too small.with a good paper pattern for your size and suitable to height and individuality. Main-2371-J C— 6417 r £ ar=H r=]G "N \ The Mandarin No. M. After Theatre Parties a Specialty Private Dining Rooms Reserved for Dinner Parties Special Attention Given Ladies without Escorts Our Kitchen is Open for Inspection to Patrons from 11:30 A. Page 52 . M.M.M.
6 Follow exactly the construction guide for laying on your pattern which you have altered to fit your figure. See that every piece is on precisely the — your material as designated on the construction guide. which furnished free with every Pictorial Review pattern. 10 Then with tailor's chalk or with a colored cotton thread run a line showing all the marks and perforations of the pattern. goods are 7 When the width of the goods will permit lay the pattern on the double fur or plush. then it fold. The nap should always rub down except velvet. and ac- cording to the construction guide. Cleveland . and fit it perfectly 3 If — — — before cutting into the dress goods. no properly laid on cut out with very sharp shears so the goods are not frayed or haggled and under no circumstances fail to cut out every notch indicated on the pattern. Striped or plaid materials must be perIf the fectly matched so the strips run into the seams on the same angle. and if your goods have a nap very strict attention must be given that the grain or nap lie in the same direction. UnlO LakeWOOd. being most wrinkles either pattern or goods. 4 Iron out every piece of your pattern and identify each section and if there is any doubt in your mind compare it with the similar piece on the construction guide. 9— When absolutely sure every piece in careful to have it perfectly flat and — errors.your goods are wool or gingham or such as need attention follow directions (see Lesson 74). baste it up and make all necessary alterations of the pattern (Lesson 77). until you have made sure what it is and where it belongs. right angle of should rub up. flowered or have a design see that it all runs in the same direction. This is of vital importance to the success of your garment. at prices that are no more and often less than elsewhere Good Values Courtesy Page S3 Progressiveness . Ohio Selling Merchandise that bears the Stamp of Quality. for preparation. 5 If the garment has a lining cut the lining out first. 11 —Then proceed to baste together as is directed in Lesson 77.. and will save you many possible is — 8— Pin down the pattern. A RELIABLE STORE The Boston Dry Goods 8813-17 Wade Park Avenue 13592 Euclid Avenue 8601 Detroit Avenue 14712 Detroit Avenue Co.-.
is shaped seamless belt. ONELLY 120.." "VOTES FOR WOMEN are not so necessary as 44 Greanet »» LOTS FOR Many WOMEN are buying Invisible Home of them Sites in Waist Foundations Are used in making light weight lace or chiffon waists where a t ght-fitting lining would be out of place. get off at East 152nd St. which protrude above the belting and are finished with hooks and This is the new eyes. and the upper part of coarse Net which forms just the right kind of a foundation for light waists. 121. Williamson Bldg. #100 down and $10 month buys a lot 40x125 for $750. New York Lesson 77. work and worry can be avoided by procuring the Grean Fitted Waist Linings and Foundations as it saves all of the labor of cutting basting. etc. constantly before you for it In the — CONSTRUCTION GUIDE 44JQ SLEEVE SECTIONS 'SIDE will BACK C plainly which pieces to join together and just where to join see that the notches correspond and that the seams are taken up on exactly the line shown and that each portion of your goods is in ar- them. 122 If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealers. specially for the summer or for warm climates. Do not attempt to put your garment together without this construction guide. write us. hours of time.— CONSTRUCTION. FITTING AND ALTERATION. We will supply you direct. or through a reliable dealer. Grean System of Fitting. But if you decide to make your own lining or foundation the following directions must be carefully followed. It tifully BEACH GROVE improvements are being and homes erected. The" made with a wide.. Take Euclid Beach Car to Beach Grove on Lake where all installed Shore Boulevard. to be guided by the waist and not by the bust. Main 5283 Ground Floor 327-329 East 34th Street. and needs to be fitted only by adjusting the seams above the boned portions and on the shoulders. according to waist measure. 2044 Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. beauboned. show you Always Page 54 . boning. or the one accompanying your pattern. making of waists. putting on the hooks and eyes. These are made in Black and White. Cen.
With a great many Rotary machines in order to remove the Shuttle one has to use a screw driver and take out three screws. put it together and fit it.. White Sewing Machine Co. We shall be glad to demonstrate it at any time. Boned Girdle A SCREW is DRIVER. It's with another time saver which herringbone belting hooks and the busy operator will surely appreciate. all necessary alterations before cutting into the dress goods..Have rpT?T T TIVT/^'C 1 EEd lULLllMjiS ICECREAM? CONSTRUCTION GUIDE4069 French .American cordance with the diagram of your construction guide. for the effect lies in perfect lines and it is impossible to obtain these without good basting. but naturally. r 35c at eyes Don't forget it! The White Rotary means more to you in a sewing way than you can think. you don't care to use it unnecessarily. Your Dealer BOTH PHONES 426 Prospect Ave. Form Made wide of Finished handy tool to have around. but with the White you simply a very raise a latch.«e . and make See cut 4410. for it takes time. Black or White ^. cut it out. Page 55 Sizes 22 to 33 inclusive Waist Measure. For Unlined Waists and Dresses USE Grean Shaped Seamless. If the garment has a lining. The greatest of care should be taken in the basting up of the seams of your garment.
Bell South 188-L Off. Margaret B. Monks Osteopathic Physician 302 Lennox Building Treatments by Appoin tmen t Res.Central Dr. Bell Main 3938 .
Begin six inches below the waist line and increase seam gradually until the correct size is obtained about the waist. Ohio Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister to Sept. that it is better to take up fullness as possible. two inches below the lower line of the Square or Sloping Shoulders. Begin six inches below the hip line and decrease the width of the seam.If garment wrinkles. for if too tight the skirt will wrinkle and draw. Gymnasium Open Oct. 32nd Lake Grove Farm St. between shoulders or across chest or at neck or armhole. well made gown. Electric Light and Shower Rest West Side Branch Franklin and W. except the front and the front edges of the side gore seams. and gradually slant to meet the side back seams. Begin six inches below the waist line. at the hip line of the front and side gores. If the hips are too small. the necessary width. and let out gradually the seams the deIncrease also the side sired width. Care must always be taken alter To for — — — not to take too large a seam across the hips. To take up skirt at waist. than to alter the back of the skirt any more Fpr flat — the back seams. After you have properly cut and fit and altered the lining of the waist and measured and adjusted the pattern of your skirt. and the same general instructions apply. Or if skirt must be enlarged at waist. Begin at the same point six inches below the waist and decrease the size of the seam. and fill in the hollow of the back by sanitary pad. Then follow the specific instructions of the lesson.. If the hips are too large.To alter for very straight figures. — — — and backs. Baths Massage Madison. you will then be ready to cut into your dress goods. edges of the gores. Ohio Page 57 . hole. however. much of the a hygenic and than absolutely necessary. which you are following in making the garment in hand and you cannot fail to have a well fitting. Begin six inches below the waist line of remembering. Begin six inches below the hip line and gradually take up the seam. extending each gore an inch at the top. —Take arm up a seam. To alter for large abdomen. The same general instructions of careful work and perfect fitting and correct alterations apply to the making of all garments. Skirts must be altered in the seams. alterations must be made from the shoulder seams and arm hole. as alter. and its length adjusted from the bottom or six inches below the hips. but do not alter any seams to remedy this trouble. carefully but before the outside material is cut into you must know that your pattern and lining are both altered exactly right. 1 Boating Bathing Out of Door Life Turkish. being careful to keep a perfect seam line. 1 Summer Camp Apply to the 1 Open July 1 to June Systematic Exercise and Recreation Young Women's Christian Association Prospect Avenue and 18th Cleveland. until you have a perfect fit.
and gowns herself to express an innate sense of refinement and good taste. CO. fairy-like figures and a painfully thin woman does not show good teste in wearing stripes and such combinations as are supposed to be worn only by women desiring to reduce the appearance of their size. FROWNERS are for the lines between the eyes. dressed —her gloves. Sold at drug and department stores. certain. In fact the well groomed woman studies herself. contains no chemicals. Schofield Bldg. leaves no marks. If your dealer cannot supply you we will send by mail. but with her If she is inclined to be stout she does not wear plaids individuality and style. Wrinkle Eradicators Simple. postpaid. tears or spots are ever visible and no hooks. 50c and S1. Scientific beauty culture means bodily and scientific —that to is. dress.— CHAPTER woman The well harmony and appropriateness of groomed becomingly fineries is XII. more our duty to ourself as well as to others to be all that is bright and healthy and beautiful. THE WELL GROOMED WOMAN. or reds or pinks or any of the colors or materials suitable only for slight. & P. These unsightly. together with an appreciation of the appropriate either with and the beautiful. It Mother Nature gave the wisest everyone. safe. which make the face look old and cross are unnecessary— remove them with the Crown and Bridgework a Specialty B. the wrinkles erased and the beauty greatly increased by the nightly application of these well known B. one who exhibits cleanliness. care or culture of that beauty which or less. telling marks of time. eyes or buttons ever missing and her shoes are always clean Her skirts always hang evenly and her belt never is out of place or shined. skin dry and is — Frank Dowd DENTIST LOOK OLD? Wrinkles are only skin deep. (Two Women) 1790 East 68th Street Cleveland. & P. and above all her collar is always in perfect position and neatly fastened fancy pins or with invisible fasteners. & P.00 boxes. OHIO Page 58 . handkerchiefs She always has her hair neatly and and neckwear and all her are immaculately clean and no rips. B. at birth. Wrinkle Eradicators. including booklet on care of face. neatness. SCIENTIFIC BEAUTY CULTURE. Ohio CLEVELAND. Both are put up in 25c. The well groomed woman's clothes are never loud or conspicuous and the colors always harmonize not only with the occasion for wearing. Seventh Floor. We cannot be this if our livers are out of order and our complexion anything but what we would wish open pores. on receipt of price. The skin can be made smooth.
Rue Chauvain REGISTERED TRADE MARK Page 59 .50. London. ADAIR'S GANESH TOILET PREPARATIONS AND FACIAL TREATMENTS obtainable for years only at her Salons in New York. $5. NEW YORK. 75c. illness and time. corners of eyes and over forehead. originated. TIRED EYE TREATMENT restores tired. LONDON 92 21 West 38th Street. $2. THIS PHOTO PORTRAYS THE GANESH CHIN STRAP ($5. owned and patented by Mrs. a splendid face wash.00. fills lows and removes wrinkles. $6. $5.00. WRITE FOR VALUABLE BOOK containing list of all GANESH Preparations and Treatments and much beauty information and advice.50. — MAIL ORDERS FILLED for all preparations and appliances on receipt of cheque. either that a gross ''double-chin" is beginning to form.00. $2. as they reach the CAUSE of all blemishes and re-establish by natural means a healthy complexion.00. withered skins to velvety SUPERFLUOUS HAIR TREATMENT HYGIENIC smoothness.50. by antiseptic $2. Faithfully used they accomplish the most wonderful results everything that is claimed for them.00. restores lined. ph one G reeley 1 3475 Bond New St. and in consequence there are flabby. GANESH EASTERN BALM SKIN FOOD $3. These Imported Appliances. $1. PARIS Cambo Cambon MIPP" ll*\_I-. Adair exclusively. or that the muscles and tissues of the cheeks have become relaxed.00. which removes double chin and and the restores GANESH FOREHEAD STRAP ($4.unhealthy a state of neglect that makes the lines wrought by worries. with a line like a big wrinkle. 75c. are the antithesis of "make-up". to become deeper day by day.50) lost contour. lined. can be obtained nowhere else in the world.00) which cures deep lines between brows. holGANESH EASTERN MUSCLE OIL braces sagging muscles.50.50. on looking sideways into our hand glass. GANESH DIABLE SKIN TONIC. pendulous — MRS. W. $5. including the Strapping Muscle Treatment. strengthens the skin. which with maturer years will surely become a hard line between it and our original chin. $3. Electrolysis is almost painless. closes pores and alleviates skin flabbiness and puffiness under the eyes. Sometime we may be rudely awakened by finding. for tender. sparkling eyes and a youthful contour. FACIAL MASSAGE. Bottle. $2. $1. dry skins. Paris and Nice. discolored eyes to proper smoothness and fulness.00. Bottle.
Stone Prop. But when. hanging on either side of the chin. which are so clearly and thoroughly explained in the interesting and instructive book. adverse climates. off. 323 Euclid Ave. Huron Bldg. double chin and restoring a youthful contour. for into place. 6U0 Madison Ave. Beckman Bldg.KJ y- ' _• Creme de Luxe a delightful preparation to use in Does not wear place of powder. scientific and constant care.. from illness. yellow or blood-shot eyes are marvelously efficacious. Ellsworth All Facial of College branches beauty science V. originators. Adair's methods of reducing superfluous flesh. it needs skillful. exposed to heat and cold. Cleveland. and the skin falls into lines and furrows. R.. be one of them and Let Me Give You a Sample lar ELLSWORTH COLLEGE 514 Permanent Bldg. Personal instructions by D. Adair at 21 West 38th them — St. it restores tone to the flabby muscles. taught.OH ^ > 1VIY FOOT . or any other cause. teachers and the DeLong's Cucumber and Almond Massage Cream Used and recommended by Cleveland's best people." which you may have for the asking by mail or in person at the parlors of Mrs. Stone's Shoe Store Send 12 cents sale all for sample. Our everyare graduates where. MRS. of eliminating deep frown lines. Y. Buffalo. 0. absorption of some of this fat takes place.. rounded contour is maintained in all its attractiveness by the support afforded by the fat beneath it to the skin that lies smoothly over it like unwrinkled satin. raises and gives back the youthful shape and appearance to the face. Toledo. of treating tired. 1V1<i to 6 p. 0. 0. to which so many women owe their rejuvenated appearance. altogether altering the shape of the face and adding years to our age. There have been many treatments for the difficulties and for the cure of double chins. MAUD 716 Permanent Bldg. and filling out hollows. For stores. FULTON Manicuring and Chiropody Room 604 Standard Bldg. hollows are formed in cheeks and temples. removing lines. DeLONG SKALLA Dermatologist and Chiropodist Page 60 . Call owners of Ellsworth System. Mrs. In youth the soft. N.m. in 2462 -J bags. effective treatment called the Ganesh Strapping Muscle Treatment. Cleveland Recommended by N.m. Makes skin soft and velvety. sole • Ellsworth. "How to Retain and Restore Youthful Beauty of Face and Form. No woman need lose the shape of her features nor the grace of her figure if she practices the Ganesh Exercises and Treatment. Your skin is not a dead thing to be left alone it is a sensative part of you. New York. but nothing has ever met with anything like the instant and entire success of the wonderful. this even support of the muscles and skin is withdrawn. and loses its beauty of coloring. Dr. is All foot troublespermanently relieved by scientific corrections under supervision of a surgeon. Creme de Luxe 505 Hours S a. and Mine.
Cleveland. 16— House Gowns. — Night Gowns. 7 — Drawers. when the subject of renewing their wardrobe presents itself. hardwood finish and hard- Polishes and wood floors. 6— Sanitary Belt. — Evening Gowns. Large size bottle 25c at your dealers' money should itures supply your needs.THE WARDROBE. and least 10 per cent of your entire appropriation for incidental be reserved expend- BAIRD BROS. 24— Handkerchiefs. 15 — Dinner Gowns. — numerous mention. Below we give a list which will help you in planning and serve to remind you of the essentials of every woman's complete wardrobe. Ties. 25 — Collars. especially if one is preparing their clothes in advance for the season or perhaps arranging for a trip or a visit or for some occasion where a rather complete outfit is needed. 23 — Hair Dress. 1 2 3 "Never Mind. 20— Housekeeping Gowns. 30— Scarf. 0. pianos. but in all of which restores the original brilliancy and lustre to furniture. — Corset Covers. 9 — Corsets. Added too to these are the numberless trifles to tains a varnish dries instantly. 26 Monarch Polish Not will fix it 29—Veils. — Union Suits. Conno acid or injurious ingredients. 27 — Coats. Page 61 . 12— Shoes. 18— Kimona. Mamma" 4 5 11 14 19— Bath Robe. 10— Petticoats. 22— Millinery. 8 — Brassieres. 13 — Traveling or Street Gowns. —Furs. must be considered case an incidental cost in you to are planning all on just so much at A few drops on your dustcloth does the work. Often one does not know when to begin. 21 — Aprons. —Hosiery. Standard Polish for 35 years. — Chemises. —Sanitary Skirt Protector. 17 — Negligee Gowns. Belts. accessories. 28—Jewelry. & CO.
So much depends upon this one point. many makeshifts on they are the market. If sizes 22 inches to 48 inches inclusive. it allows entire freedom and full expansion to the chest. send us his name and 25c for sample belt. instead of pressing it down. as it does not constrict the waist and is designed and cut on the idea of supporting the abdomen. Dept. neither will the most expensive. but without the torture.(A) CORSETS. but a well made can not only be worn with comfort but can be easily adjusted and will prove secure. of fastening and your outfit not complete without a belt of this have carefully examined the W. to 48 ins. in fact the foundation of your entire appearance to say nothing of your health and comfort lies in the well fitting corset. inclusive. We at all times recommend the Berthe May "Hygie" corset as we find its hygienic and physical advantages cannot be disputed. carefully made garment look its best. heart In other words it will allow one to dress according to the and stomach. gown will (C) SANITARY BELTS. E. lungs. that There is one small as article no woman should be they without but they either belt Sanitary Belt. that the choice and judgement of the most experienced corsetiere should be consulted. Sizes of Belts are actual waist measure. F Manufacturers For Comfort 40 Lispenard St. Ladies Improved Sanitary Belt and we have found no better on the market. for unless your corset fits your individual figure. like many other corsets do.. — We A Standard Pattern with our improved "Never-Slip Clasp" ( Patent Applied For ) Requires No Safety Pin Easily Adjusted in sizes Absolutely Secure Made 22 ins. and that is a are most unwill unless properly constructed not stay clasped or will not hold the napkins in place. & N. Order large enough to drop well down over hips.&N. Wright & Sons Co." High Grade Elastic Ladies' Improved Sanitary Side. the same as with any ordinary corset. and while supporting the bust. for the fit of your gown carriage. B. there are satisfactory. Webbing at Front and Back Wm. you are unable to procure it from your dealer. your article in — not fit perfectly. your entire wardrobe that should be given more There is no the grace of your careful attention than your corsets. POSTPAID. N. latest styles. New York City Page 62 . At All Dealers "W. are but few more ruinous habits than the use of safety pins and is There improvised methods character.
00 and $2. It is absolutely waterproof. odorless. women. less Beware of worthimitations. 22nd. Call and let us demonstrate this article to you. Always recogour United States. 117 purchasing. as flexible as fine linen. sanitary skirt protector a necessity to A AMA PSmmfW^ An article every is *^&™ woman will of welcome market THERE now on the the needa ready-to-wear which you wardrobe acce:sory. Page 63 . THE AMA Sanitary Skirt Protector Patented Sept.s that it cannot be ex elled for com ort. For misses and business ladies in mode summer of ladies' attire or evening dress. O. CLARENCE BUILDING CLEVELAND. tourists. have doubtless often realized. We recommend the skirt protector as one that will give entire satisfaction. but have never before been able to secure in an ideal form.(C) SKIRT PROTECTORS. nmde of a high grade white rubber muslin. The Ama Sanitary Skirt Protector has so many c salient featur. $1. for one is never safe at certain times to wear their gowns and dainty underwear. nurss people it is almost indispensable. If you get a good one you can wash unless a sure protection is afforded. 1908 This garment and This article is fully protected Sanitary Skirt protector will be mailed to any address in the receipt of price the Upon Ama by patent. The Ama Sanitary Skirt Protector is an article especially desirable for the present dress.00 each qualities. and press it and always have it in perfect condition. nize trademark before A1VIA CO. made with lace net yoke affording perfect ventilation and can be readily laundered. fit and durability. is every woman's wardrobe. and theatrical The excellent material used guarantees its wearing is made in medium large size selling at Price 50c.
gown as the waist There is nothing that ruins the entire appearance of a out of place above the belt line or perhaps showing a dividing line between the skirt band and the waist line. refinement and a respect for the shape. hat for business. the street or traveling should be selected of one of the soft plain shapes with simple trimming. sent postpaid. Even though the edging and insertion be of fine lace or embroidery it will greatly add to the beauty of the garment to have at least a small floral design of hand work. with so much pleasure at one's leisure time if handy with the needle. Little rubber The "LOOP-HOLD" Shirtwaist BELT corrects a common fault in dress." take double hold without undue pressure. feathers and flowers. great improvement over old style belts. but the majority of women Waist Cannot Be Displaced pyramid "Units" grip and keep waist from riding up.ARBORj TEA SHOP Earner flat ^oppe where 6541 Euclid Avenue Exclusive Models in Dress and Tailored Hats. 17th St. S. Self-acting buckle stays put. CORNER SUPERIOR AND 105TH THE WARNER HAT SHOPPE considers it possible for every woman to have an Individual Style A Gift all Shop and Tea Room can be found Novelties in Art and Needle Work (D) MILLINERY. corset covers and drawers should be of dainty muslin or fine linen. skirt supporter on the market than is shown below. Price 15 Cents. No sharp points to hurt fingers. The night gown. should wear a waist supporter in order that a good about the waist can always be relied upon. Many make these garments entirely by hand. off into the their eye as to color (E) SHIRT WAIST SUPPORTERS. at back.. 15 E. Pat'ee &Mfr. style and setting of one's face and features. Metal parts cannot rust. Price 15 Cents at Department Stores AGENTS WANTED DAVID BASCH. chemise. New York Page 64 . both French and Domestic. 1/ not at dealers. held in by patented " loop. and if possible hand embroidered in any of the beautiful designs which can so easily be procured and done. Every careful dresser. on receipt of price. Simple. but for church and theatre wear one A may branch more elaborate and trimmed effects and can satisfy and decoration of ribbons. effect There is no better (F) LINGERIE. when wearing a waist that is separate from the skirt. graceiul. but great care should be used that the selection be one that exhibits taste. elastic sides.. Dept. practical.
be a cloth a rain-proof fabric of "Cravenette" proof is a process which The process permeates every fibre renders a cloth or garment water-proof. rendering the cloth permanently rain-proof, and rain will then of the yarns, You can have your coat, suit, wrap, or neither wet nor spot the garment. motoring garments made from the Priestley Cravenette Cloths, and you will If you are obliged to be out in all kinds of find your needs perfectly met. weather, rain or shine, you should by all means have a "Cravenette" rain-coat. We specify "Cravenette," because a genuine Cravenette-proof coat contains no rubber, is porous to air, yet rain-proof and has not the disagreeable odor common to most raincoats, and too, there is not the stiffness of the material, which renders many of the rain coats so undesirable and unattractive. The Cravenette-proof process leaves the cloth just as supple as before and every The main point to bear in fibre of the yarns is made thoroughly rain-proof. mind is to get a rain-coat that is strictly hygienic, keeping the dampness out without preventing ventilation. However, if you are only out in an occasional sprinkle or shower, a rain-coat is unnecessary, but you should have a street
(G) RAINCOATS AND people imagine Cravenette some sort but such is not the case.
or business or traveling suit
any of the Priestley cloths of serviceable
and wearable mohair suitings, serge, chevoit, whipcord, etta, which you can get "Cravenette" proof.
Silk y^^y^pti^^fiyci^ Labe
stamped on the inside and a sewed at the collar or elsewhere.
None Genuine Without Them
applied to many kinds of cloth suitable for outer garchildren's men's, women's and ments in light, medium and heavy weights for seasons of the year, and are for wear in rain or shine.
" Rain Will Neither
Wet Nor Spot Them."
They con t ain no Rubber, have no
disagreeable odor; will not overheat or cause perspiration.
For sale by leading dealers in Men's, Women's and Children's Clothing.
Hoboken, New Jersey
postal to the
Co., 100 Fifth Avenue, will bring interesting booklet.
A DROP OF OIL
annoyance, and more than that, when it gets on goods that you are anxious to keep clean. The oil cup on the White Rotary prevents all trouble of the kind. It's a trifle, but
by attention to the little things that make the White Rotary the very best machine you can buy. Our terms will surprise you by their
White Sewing Machine Go.
426 Prospect Ave.
Lesson 78.— CORSET
nainsook, muslin, sheer lawn, linen, or any thin fine material.
tucks (Lesson 54). Join seams with French seam (Lesson 47).
Gather at waist line son 64). Finish neck and armholes with embroidery scallops (Lesson 22), or face on right side with very fine embroidery. See Lesson 53.) Embroider any desired design (Lessons 19-25 inclusive). Make eyelets and run in ribbon to hold in fullness (Lesson 25). Close with small buttons and buttonholes (Lessons 29-30).
(Lesson 65). and make band of goods or of beading for belt (Les-
Cut out (Lesson
Join with either plain or French seams.
(See Lessons 41 and 47.)
Face both sides of opening (Lesson Face around top for belt (Lesson
Make buttonholes (Lesson 27). Sew on buttons (Lesson 30).
have not the time to put so much personal labor on their wardrobe, but the character of a woman is more easily discerned by the daintiness, prettiness and completeness of her lingerie, than by the beauty or elaborateness of her best gowns.
In France, a bride has never less than 12 pieces of each article of underwear beautifully done by hand work and exhibited with great pride to all her
buying and making these garments that your lingerie with care will last for many years to come, and you can afford to put more time and expense on them than on your outside garments that change style, color and design to suit every whim and caprice of fashion.
Lesson 80.— CHEMISE. Procure a good chemise pattern and make exactly as instructed in (Lesson 79), on the making of night gowns.
Lesson 81.— NIGHT GOWN. Cut out (Lesson 76). Join with dainty French seam (Lesson Embroider neck and edge of sleeves (Lesson 22), or fact on the right side with any desired trimming of embroidery or lace fine (Lesson 53). Embroider desired design. (See Lessons 19 to 25 inclusive).
Make eyelets (Lesson 25) neck, and draw about through ribbon to adjust
Lesson 82.— COMBINATION UNDERGARMENTS. Cut out (Lesson 76). Fit carefully (Lesson 77). Join all seams with French seams (Lesson 47). Set in yoke (Lesson 65). Put on beading and edging (Lesson 57). Sew on ruffle (Lesson 56). If for open drawers face both sides of opening (Lesson 53). Close with small buttons and buttonholes (Lesson
challie. Make buttonholes (Lesson 29). GUI Chapel in Connection Jay P. Face upper edge of the garment (see Lesson 53). The material can be of large figured silk. and means will permit. Have plenty of white skirts plain or elaborate to match your other lingerie of your outfit. Face top (Lesson 53). Stitch the facing down securely. dimities. Join seams (Lesson 41). Page 68 .Lesson 83. QBE Lesson 84. lawns. and where the fullness commences make a slit on each side and insert a tape. Hem (Lesson 48). East 135 1738 East 55th Street Cut out (Lesson 76). soft flannels or in fact almost any pretty Have your negligee gowns as attractive as your skill fabric may be used. Parrish Funeral Director Bell Phone. business and traveling gowns. silk.— SKIRTS AND UNDERWEAR WITHOUT PLACKET. Sew on buttons (Lesson 30). for it is the dainty feminine expression of lingerie and negligee garments that expresses the refined womanly tastes and will prove of pleasure to you so long as they last. house and evening gowns. The slit should be carefully worked with the button hole stitch (Lesson 24). Join ruffle (Lesson 56).— PETTICOATS. but have them made the proper length to wear with your For your sireet. DRESSING SACQUES AND KIMONAS. drawing it through the slit on the opposite side. fleece lined goods. heatherbloom or even a good quality of sateen is preferable.
not go to the
Kimonas and Art Laces"
before buying ?
150 The Arcade
See Our Beautiful Designs and Get Our Low Prices
Lesson 85.— DRESSING
Cut out (Lesson
pleat in back.
Face collar (Lesson
elbow and shirr around
waist (Lesson 55), and finish with dainty
of bright ribbon at the waist.
Lesson 86.— KIM ON A.
Cut out (Lesson
seams on machine.
bottom of garment (Lesson
Make yoke and attach (Lesson 65). Make sleeves and put in (Lesson
Face edges and sleeves (Lesson
facing should be of satin or
ing shade of the same or a lighter material.
scientific drugless treatment
Aprons are the simplest of all garments to make, No. 3857 is especially easy to make. Cut out goods (Lesson 76). Face all edges (Lesson 53). Make pocket (Lesson 73)." Make one buttonhole and sew on button (Lessons 29-30).
No. 3180 requires a little more time and effort. Cut out (Lesson 76). If embroidery for ruffle, bib and pockets is not used hem ruffle (Lesson 48). Face bib and pockets (Lesson
Put on ruffle (Lesson 56). Put on pockets (Lesson 73). Gather and join bib to skirt of
Put on band (Lesson 64).
Is This the
Is that the condition of your nerves? If so, your system is just like the violin shown above; utterly unable to perform the work for which it was intended. Until there is an improvement in these conditions, there is no chance for harmonious action between the various organs of the body. The office of the nervous system is to control and direct the vital forces. If the nerves are not strong, healthy and in proper tone they cannot do this work any more than can the violin give forth sweet and melodious music when "all unstrung."
You Do Not Need
a Nerve STIMULANT, But a NERVE Food. a Nerve Food and Strength Builder.
At the same prepared especially to build up and strengthen the nervous system. time it purifies the blood and regulates the circulation, so that the nerve centers may distribute the vital forces to the organs in need. If you'are only slightly nervous, you ought to take ZOA-PHORA at once and thus thwart the onward march of the disease. If your nerves are already in such a shattered condition that they are threatened with nervous prostration, ZOA-PHORA will give you relief and strengthen your nervous system.
95 for the Special
Lesson 88.— LINGERIE WAIST. Choose your pattern and
follow the instructions of
desired design and effect and mak-
ing according to
Sleeves, Lesson 69 or 70.
Collars, Lessons 66, 67 and 68. Yoke, Lesson 65. Trimmings and Finish, Lessons 54, 57, 58 and 62. If a Lining is desired make according to Lessons 76 and 77.
Lesson 89.— HOUSE KEEPING GOWNS. Your house keeping gowns should be of percale or gingham or some wash goods so that at all times you can be immaculately clean. Have them made plain and simple so they can be easily gotten into and also have your aprons large, and of a material that washes neatly. Use instructions (Lesson 76), taking steps according to numbers; X-l, X-5, X-7, X-8, X-9, X-15. Then put on facing about sleeves, neck and down front and belt (Lesson 53). Now hem skirt (Lesson 48). Sew on buttons and make buttonholes (Lessons
Easy to Pay the Rosenblum Way"
STYLISH GOODS Woman
pays the bill
WE GIVE STAMPS
We Make Good Unsatisfactory Purchases We Never Misrepresent
GIVE US A CALL
Credit Clothing Co.
2014 Ontario St. Cor.^hamplain
Mr. Rosenblum Himself
pays for both at all stores where they give them).— SHIRT WAIST. and stitch on both sides of pleat. 9 Lesson it 91. & Pacific Tea Company's Store 2165 Ontario Street. —We will give directions for making gown 4533 as contains nearly every element and requires the explanation of nearly all points of dressmaking. Waists. etc. Upstairs Lesson 90. Hundreds of are added to our already large patronage every is There We We is a Reason — High Rent District. Dresses. We do not have any collectors. Coats. 4 Form box pleat in right front. Skhts. of course. By following these instructions carefully and faithfully. growing by leaps and bounds. turning to the specific lesson as indicated. 8 Make collar (Lesson 66). front and back. do not handle any premiums nor give trading stamps (the customer. All Goods Sold on $1. Shoes.There Must Be a Reason Why our business new customers month. — — Make buttonholes and sew on buttons (Lesson 29-30). — — — — — — Hem the underside of the front closing. 6—Make sleeves and attach (Lesson 70). and attach or put on neck band (Lesson 64). Jewelry. The quality of our merchandise is the best and our guarantee of absolute satisare not in the faction is given with every sale. Suits. — GOWNS. 2 Join with plain seams (Lesson 41). you cannot fail to develop your Page 72 . 1 Cut (Lesson 76). 3 Fit and make any necessary alterations (Lesson 77). — Gather at waist 5 7 line in and attach a belt or stitch bias band to hold gathers secure. CLEVELAND CREDIT CLOTHING Over Atlantic CO.—A shirt waist is something it seems no one has too many of they are so useful and so necessary for so many occasions and can be constructed of such a variety of fabrics and in such a wide range of styles. and leave collar loose.00 a Week Payments Complete furnishers — Hats. Our operating expenses are low.
Ptawi 3fttBtrufitum .
believe that the real American woman does not consider "home" to be just the house in which she lives. New York London Headquarters: Louis Berlin San Francisco Vienna St. and in harmony with the an evening gown the upper portion of both lining and material of the waist can be cut away.16 17 — Face bottom of skirt (Lesson —Sew on hooks and eyes (Lesson 53). The household departments in PICTORIAL REVIEW. special articles in PICTORIAL are on subjects of interest to women.. its ideas will save much more than the cost of the magazine for a year. find that she considers "home" to be the city. home decoration. in the politics which make taxes high and her rent accordingly higher. 39th NEW YORK Page 74 . With these departments before you a magazine devoted wholly to housekeeping is a needless extravagance. marketing. They make the so-called "fiction-magazine" unnecessary. in life insurance which cares for her REVIEW We We when the bread-winner is suddenly taken away." It covers every range of woman's activity completely. materia! Any ornamentation suitable to the occasion to be worn may be used. The fiction stories in PICTORIAL RE- VIEW The are equal to the very best you can get anywhere. etc. Charming Lingerie Frocks Smart Street Toilettes Afternoon Dresses in Foulards and Taffetas New and Fascinating Evening Gowns An Alluring Assortment of Lace Blouses in the New Casaque and Peplum Styles The PICTORIAL REVIEW is not wholly a fashion magazine although it carries more and better styles than any fashion magazine published. a necessity in every home. REVIEW The Pictorial Chicago Paris Review Company St. The up-to-date American housewife is a thinking woman. tasty dishes described in PICTORIAL REVIEW'S COOKING DEPARTMENT. PICTORIAL REVIEW is "The Magazine for Women. state and nation in which she lives. For To be Dressed Styles in the Latest Fashion Select Your from the Season's Number The PICTORIAL REVIEW FASHION BOOK For sale by The May Costs only 5c When Purchased with a 15c pattern For sale by Co. She is looking for more information constantly and PICTORIAL furnishes that knowledge. The May Co. and in many other subjects which are of vital importance to her daily living. 59). departments on cooking. housekeeping.. 222-224-226 W. If you wish to please your husband's palate just give him some of the good. She is very properly interested in the schools which her children shall attend. plain. It is Its suggestions. In short. are written by experts and their information is practical and daily useful. You had better subscribe now and find out about our magazine and our patterns. making as low or as high cut gown as desired.
except the breteile is crossed in the front instead of the back. but for younger women prettiness and daintiness and attractiveness should be the aim rather than richness. as often too elegant evening gowns lie your unused and unenjoyed. . Every wardrobe should hold as many evening gowns as the individual will have need of. For making see Lesson 91.—EVENING AND DINNER GOWNS. Select carefully your materials with a view of perfect keeping with social demands and associates.Lesson 92. and a number of cheap inappropriate useless garments purchased when one good garment of a more suitable nature would have been a better investment. Lesson 93. Main . and they should be as simple. elegance or elaborateness. for a season 30. when the same amount of money expended in two or three simple evening frocks would have constantly served to the pleasure and needs. and the panel is used instead of the — GOWN — all-over flounce. yet sometimes the other extreme is met. or as magnificent as her station in life demands. Phones 4598 Central 1379-W . 'Make exactly according to Lesson 91.
Boarding Home Transient Accommodations Employment Bureau Travelers' Aid .
Lesson 96.. but well tailored and firm enough to support and retain shape permanently. They are made of the best material appropriate for this purpose and are thoroughly sponged and shrunk. you will find a Grean patented Shoulder form. them in medium weight variety to suit tailor suit. A good sized arm-pad surrounding. gether and some tailors use fronts of canvas prepared separately to fit the outside. but the difference Some tailors sew cloth and canvas tolies chiefly in preparing the fronts. it will be a good lesson and example to study Grean ready made and tailor- made make coat front foundation. New York Page 77 . made of white French felt and edges of the best herringbone hair-cloth used for center stiffening. all heavy winter selves. a wide button hole stay runs the whole length of the coat. themself. 327-329 E. 50c to $1. They are all very soft and pliable. in and renders it unfit to be used your garment. in the shoulder. and at the top. Tailor-Made Coat Fronts Foundations are distinguished by their beautiful shaping and tailoring and every season the shapes change according to the prevailing To those who have found difficulty in making coat fronts for themfashions. If your dealer cannot supply you write us immediately. There are several methods of making jackets and coats. to will make find a Those who are unable good tailor made front Grean's Tailor Made Coat for Front Foundations to be almost a necessity. These tailor-made coat front foundations are made in different weights and lengths. from the short Eton coat to a 32 inch length coat so much worn now. will find coat. but you can detect cheap worthless coat front foundations by their stiffness. you will notice that it is It is not only a foundation over a complete coat front. The present styles demand soft coat fronts. which can be purchased for much less than one can Accept no imitations or substitutes. lightweight silk or velvet Grean suits and fur garments. "Tailor. They in are a made variety upsuit to-date styles to different coats. for a tailormade coat or jacket. from the lightest silks to the heaviest automobile garments. You requirements. but a tailored made coat front.— CLOAKS AND SUIT JACKETS. are protected with a white linen stay. which is usually nothing but glue. 34th St.00 GREAN SHOULDER FORM & PAD CO. The foundation for the front of your coat or jacket is very important. must have more in it than an ordinary piece of canvas without preliminary preparations of careful sponging and shrinking. which the cloth is placed..Made' ' Coat Front Foundation By examining the drawing alongside which shows the inside view of the Grean Tailor-Made Coat Front Foundation. but it is also part of a pattern by which one can be safely guided.
—Make buttons and buttonholes (Lessons 29 and 30). beautifully shaped and used in either short coats or long coats where only bust reinforcing is necessary and If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealer's. press and sew turning in the lining to 13 — Make collar and attach (Lesson 67). There is 4 — Lay on goods (Lesson 76— to — Cut out lining (Lesson 76— 3 — Baste up lining seams (Lesson — Fit and make necessary alterations (Lesson —'Cut outside material (Lesson 76—6-11). sew up seams in desired manner (Lesson 41). nicely finished garment and the saving of doing this work yourself will allow you to put extra money into a better grade of material than otherwise you could choose or you can practically buy the goods for another suit. You can purchase made at any of our advertisers carrying Grean dressmaking supplies. for much of the beauty of the coat or cloak depends upon this part. 7 Join seams of lining. No work or stitches should be left visible on the lining. in any style or manner desired.no more particular work in dressmaking than the proper tailoring of a jacket or coat and you should never attempt to make one of these garments in a hurry. above directions you will be able to work out a well fitting. out and attach with very small slant stitches (Lesson 12 cover the seam. and press seams open. 1 1 5). 14 — Make sleeves (Lesson 72). 16—The trimmings can then be sewed on. 9 When an exact fit has been obtained detach from lining. We will supply you direct or through a reliable used in garments where a coat front of canvas has been already used but has is extensively altering dealer and send you a catalogue of other dressmaking helps. write us. 35 to 50c 50c lost its original shape. 5 Short Coat-Fronts Short Coat Front. NEW YORK — Baste ready in these bust forms of hair cloth or soft canvas. 10 11 — — — Make and put pocket — Put in lining right side in 5). — 8 Baste goods over lining and try on and fit perfectly (Lesson 77). in. GREAN SHOULDER FORM & PAD 6 CO. made of Hair-Cloth. and press (Lesson 75). strict attention to the By paying Page 78 . 3). 327-329 East 34th St.. IS — Again press the entire garment. (Lesson 73). all 77). 2 5).
They allay Inflammation and heal the irri71. Beware of dangerous imitations that contain mineral and poisons and which have'no established fifty reputation. Read on the last page of this book your druggist' special offer to you of a free ten days' treatment of these Cones. a tated parts. MICHIGAN. but the comfort of the individual to a large extent depends upon these two things. ^6. but in in- stances the clothing must be loose and comfortable and both the dress and underwear should be Special attento supported tion from the shoulders. has been found. The herself outfit an expectant mother prepares for entirely depends upon what her duties all require of her during this period. 50 CENTS. They contain Nerve Tonics ANTISEPTIC which are absorbed into the Blood and VITALIZING COHES Give Vitality to the Whole System. The Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones have in the past years permanently relieved thousands upon thousands of women and the price of a month's treatment for 50 cents makes them within the reach of all. safe. Page 79 . CHAPTER XIII. Cones are a female suppository.ZOA-PHORA Antiseptic Vitalizing CONES Are for local treatment and are antiseptic in their action on Diseased Tis- sue and Unhealthy Conditions. The Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing KALAMAZOO.. Ten days' treatment will convince you that no matter how serious your condition a positive relief Sample free upon request. MATERNITY OUTFIT. reliPRICE. must be given the matter of corsets and the lining of the gowns. Proprietors. ZOA-PHORA CO. P^t^£L. L able and effective. as not only the appearance.
expectant mother should go without a corset. enables women to dress as usual. New York (98)— MATERNITY CORSETS. the same as an ordinary corset. in a normal condition. Every woman should have this corset in her wardrobe. sent under plain envelope.00 to $18. to preserve a normal appearance and to attend to their every -day vocations. as her own health and that of her child would be materially injured by such a course.. It is manufactured to be an absolute safeguard against all accidents for the mother as well as for the child. A maternity corset must combine as an abdominal support and a corset in fact it must be a protection to the abdominal walls against too great relaxation and yet must serve to give grace to the figure and to make it possible for her to go about and be active during the entire period.BERTHE MAY'S Maternity Corset The only corset of this kind made for its own purpose. and it can be reduced to a normal size and worn as long as desired after the child is born. to be used whenever needed. Orders by mail filled with absolute satisfaction because of my perfect yet simple measurement system. which can be opened successively when more room is needed.. BERTHE MAY. but she should never wear the ordinary style and cut. Prices from $5. No — Page 80 . together with photographic reproductions and full information.00 Write for free booklet No. 46th St. Mfr. and allows the mother to dress as usual. Physicians use it in their own families aud prescribe it to their patients. to preserve a normal appearance. The most celebrated maternity corset that has come to our notice is the Berthe May "Lucine" corset. The Lucine corset can be made gradually larger when wanted. as it can be worn at any time. as well as during the maternity period. 10 E. to deport herself with the greatest comfort. and to attend to her customary vocation during the whole term of her pregnancy. through a system of inside plaits of the material. abdominal support at all times. and yet with its own particular advantages. thanks to its exclusive and It procures an absolute simple system of gradual enlargement. thus affording the comfort and safety so necessary in a weakened condition of the abdomen. 15 Which will b. on account of the healthy support which it gives both the abdomen and to the back. and upon examination and investigation we find that the "Lucine" corset is so constructed that it can be worn as early as wanted.
See cut of lining at top of Fig. but it is seamed and faced and finished the same as given in the regular lesson on It should have a good sized pleat at each seam. Accept no substitute. MICHIGAN. and extending to the bottom of the waist lining. and the dart seams either side from the shoulder faced back (Lesson S3).Lesson 99. necessary. and lace down with linen or elastic The band from which rather loosely fitted is the front of the skirt from exactly under the necessity to enlarge.) QA~rt X REMEDY CO. will forever convince you that to suffer with this disease is positively unGo to your Pull directions in each package. REMEDY— known See page 96 for ZOA-PHORA REMEDIES COMPANY. A IT /*phOHA (Trade Mark. druggist today ana procure a month's treatment before your No matter disease becomes more deep seated and chronic. Proprietors.— MATERNITY GOWN. is arms where there but little Allowance must be made that enough goods left at the top of the skirt to extend the front and sides will as the figure demands in order that the skirt hang evenly all way around. and a very pliable. list of of time and 50 cents for a full month's treatment well-known meritorious effective Remedy. Instead of making starting in the usual way the lining has dart seams from the shoulder and the center of the neck. Make lacing. how serious your case you will find the ZOA-PHORA PILE the one safe.. The instructions found in Lesson 91. Cleveland's best Toledo. - Zoa-Phora Ten minutes of this Pile Remedy PILE ZOA-PHORA KALAMAZOO. Sample sent FREE upon request.— MATERNITY SKIRT. 50 CENTS. 3916. tion at the top for lengthening front and sides. falls is eyelets (Lesson 25) on both sides of all three openings. reliable and satisfactory treatment. and an extenskirt making. PRICE. Lesson 100. Ohio full line of druggists who handle the Zoa-Phora Remedies Page 81 . easy stretching elastic band is used for the belt. maternity skirt is cut after a special maternity skirt pattern. except the lining is finished altogether differently. make this gown perfectly. The opening down is the front shoulder is hemmed back. See instructions (Lesson 76). for making.
Zoa-Phora is Dr. suits. THE SCHOOL GIRL'S WARDROBE. — Bath robes. 15 —Collars and ties. — Combination corset 1 combination 3 covers and -WOMAN'S FRIEND FOR drawers. Pengelly's pri- 13— Millinery. — House gown.CHAPTER IV. as it will give you all the beautiful curves and angles without the discomfort and danger of the modern corset. build up the tissues^strengthen the nerves and put the entire constitution in harZoa-Phora is monious condition. while you are growing you can seriously injure yourself and your health. 10 — Party dress. especially~compounded to purify and the blood. 20— Cloak. Special attention should be paid to your corsets. — — Night gowns. enrich 4— Handkerchief s. sickly girls and women. 16 17 Read our Special Offer Page 96 of this Book. 19 — Sweater. 21 — Furs. 6 7 — Petticoats. 4 5 Growing Girls For over 50 years Zoa-Phora has proven an invaluable remedy to meet the needs of weak. 12— Hair ornaments. nervous. narcotics or other dangerous or harmful drugs. belts and acces- sories. Get your shoes of sensible style and thickness and large enough to be comfortable regardless of the season or fashion. All of your garments should be simple and Page 82 . — Shoes. 11 —White petticoats. opiates. — Hosiery. You will find on the following pages suggestions of appropriate styles for your gowns. — Light warm woolen 2— Under vests. for during the pliable age. We would recommend the Berthe May "Hebe" Corset. 1 vate prescription for women. 9 — Church dress. purely a vegetable compound no alcohol. 8— School dress. by wearing a badly fitted corset. Do not make the mistake of going without sufficient underwear and of a quality to give you sufficient warmth and have all of your lingerie plain and dainty. 18— Corset waists. for every girl entering womanhood. together with complete instructions for the making of them and if you are a wise girl you will begin with the first lesson of this book and master every point of plain and fancy needlework for it is one of the most refined acquirements possible for a gentlewoman to attain. To the girl after her who is away from home wardrobe we have made out a most useful in list or the one without a mother to look of necessary articles and you will find the list planning your wardrobe.
— ting GOWN if 3911. as nothing is more unattractive than rich elegant garments worn by a sweet faced girl. gorgeous effects suitable for the stage or at best for older women. dainty garments will win for you a thousand fold more admiration than magnificent. CLEVELAND. Skirt (Lesson 95). omit- hemming. Lesson 102. whose youth and its natural qualities need no artificial adornment. — GIRLS SCHOOL shirt waist DRESS. GIRL'S DRESSES. Piano and Apply to the Junior and Industrial Mandolin Lessons Orchestra Practice Young Women's Christian ^Association Clubs Prospect Avenue and East 18th Membership Parties St.— Make has exactly according to Lesson 91. edge. shown is one widely approved of and very popular for graduating.girlish. Follow instructions for (Lesson 89). OHIO West Side Branch Franklin and W. the material if embroidery omit omit Xll. 32nd Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister Choral Classes Bible Classes Page 83 . whose natural charms are beginning to wane. Collar (Lesson 63). Remember immaculate. Follow instructions for making as found in LesGirl's dresses are The son style 91. and if no lining X2— X6. made exactly on the same principle as a lady's dress. and without collar Lesson 101. sensible. party and summer dresses.
Every mother desires to see her little this requires 12 oz. Make 54). collar 68). M'f 'rs. In the latter instance the guimpe or sleeves it and yoke should always be of wash goods. Prevents bronchial diseases. sleeves and put in (Lesson 69).— CHILDREN'S DRESSES. 50 cts. more labor and is care and expense than usually figured on. poplins. Lesson 104.00. Physicians recommend it. The main goods such as point in planning children's garments in is to have them as plain and appropriate as possible. piques. and linens. clean. Page 84 . seams. or French seams (Lesson Make Make Make ruffles and attach (Lesson (Lesson 48). repps. every instance possible should be of wash etc. ones daintily dressed and Lickes Drug Co. $1. either 47). percales. Cleveland. 56). severe Coughs. flannel. all tucks in goods before cutting (Lesson Cut (Lesson Close 76). 5 oz. so that It is can be kept perfectly hardly economical to make boys clothing after they leave the "Buster Brown" period. Quickly cures Croup. bot. bot. but in the winter either underwear heavy enough to fully protect the child from the cold must be provided or woolen dresses of serge. Especially pre- sewing where an economical wife and mother can save to more advantage than in by doing the work herself the making of the children's clothes. Colds.. plain (Lesson 41). so we do not take up space in giving this instruction. pared for Whooping Cough. Shortens and lightens the disease. ginghams. Used in Cleveland Orphan Asylums 20 years. novelty goods or any warm material must be worn. At Druggists.. O. Hem Close (Lesson with dainty buttons and small button- holes (Lessons 29-30).CHILDREN'S CLOTHES. There is perhaps no department of WHOOPING COUGH DUNHAM'S SPECIFIC.
bottom of (Lesson Hem If . and sew on buttons (Lesson Fasten up back with washable buttons. 47). French seams (Lesson neck.— CHILDREN'S WAISTS AND DRAWERS. Lesson 106. Sew line a bias band around waist 30). Put 64). seam hidden by the facing 4483 Page 85 . drawers (Lesson 48). is edging used overcast on neatly (Lesson 57). Face waist armholes. is The cape joined at may be lined or unlined and the neck. band on drawers to (Lesson make buttonholes button on waist (Lesson 29). S3). except shoulders a of ruffles over the cape if desired may be made.Lesson 105. Cut out (Lesson Join 76). the of the collar. and make buttonholes or sew on loops of elastic cord. A child's coat is made the after the same general instead principles as gown.— CHILD'S COAT.
infant's etc. sensible garment for the little one to play in. six bands. and if mother has the time to spare. — Every mother should with rompers. Sew up straight seams (Lesson 41). child and saves the mother much care and thought concerning his clothes. (Lesson 64). Cut (see Lesson 76). six pair hose. three wrappers. so below we will give a list of absolutely nec- garments and articles together with an idea of about the number of each that the average expectant mother should have preessary Six dresses. usually a question as to just what they are to make. Put on collar (Lesson 68). tal- cum powder. Make pocket (Lesson Make belt 73). six night slips. one diaper cover. INFANTS WARDROBE. she usually prefers doing much of the work articles The Page 86 . six bibs. three pinning blankets. three dozen diapers. for they are a comfortable. To it ^3800 is the prospective mother. one veil. comb and safety pins. pared: three (white). CHAPTER VII. especially one expecting for the first time. — ROMPERS. and a layout containing all necessary toilet articles. one cap. six pair bootees. one kimona. and how many of each article to make. Gather at knees.BELLE VERNON MILK the Best Milk Lesson provide her 109. little necessary to a child's wardrobe are very simple and easy to make. three sacks. Make sleeves (Lesson 69). one coat. three petticoats petticoats (flannel). brush.
This treatment is a positive aid in maintaining a good condition of health during confinement. Sew up seams (Lessons 41 and 47). The coat. Bibs should be of double thickness. While Preparing for the Coming of the Little One. follow instructions for making child's PRINCESS SLIP. Make and put in sleeves (Lesson 69). Kimona (see Lesson 86).Lesson 110. gown (Lesson 104).— The dress is made the same as instructed (Lesson 104) child's dress except very much longer. and a rapid recovery of natural health and strength afterward. A rubber diaper should be made for protection on occasions § when you are traveling or taking your child away from home. Make and attach collar (Lesson 68). CAN anything than PHORA Read the Special Offer as Given on Page 97 Ex pectant mothers can not afford to be without Woman's Friend Page 87 . and should take regularly during the last month of confinement and for one or two months after birth. Hem back the fronts (Lesson 48). Cut (Lesson 76). Hem bottom of skirt (Lesson 48). (see Lesson 106). and made as daintily as possible. the edges turned in and finished with an edging of lace or feather stitched. quick and easy delivery at birth. Sew on buttons (Lesson 30). The little flannel jackets are made in one piece and the edges should be The night gown. the Mother's Health Should Be the First Consideration. both flannel and the dainty white ones are made under same instructions as Lesson 105. Sew on lace or fine embroidery edging (Lesson 57). of Birdseye linen or Canton flannel.— MAKING THE INFANT'S OUTFIT. embroidered or neatly bound with pink or blue ribbon. cut square. Make buttonholes (Lesson 29). or if lace or embroidery edging is not used you may feather stitch around the edge of the collar and down the front on either side of the buttonholes and many prefer to feather stitch the hem (see Lesson 18). The petticoat. be more vitally important that the organs of maternity of the mother be in a perfect state of health and strength to undergo this trying ordeal? The expectant mother should begin to take ZOAas soon as pregnancy is known from time to time as needed according to directions. Diapers should be made of good cotton diaper cloth. but it should not be worn at all times as the ordinary waterproof diapers are not porous enough to let the air properly to the child's body. and neatly hem by hand.
CUMMER'S SHOE DRESSINGS The Proper Dressing For EVERY Shoe Ask Your Shoeman Page 88 .«m.0»«> ENERGINE I 'SHOE OMOINATION DRESSING" GOOD AT ALL C STORES wuwmu moms cs i ei«n. The cleaning of clothes and accessories of the dress is often a problem. for a process or chemical that removes the spot from one material will set the stain in or ruin another material. must always be given to the nature of the spot and the material. M i(. You can do considerable for careful consideration mShT- ^!S>wb CLOTHES kept beautifully clean and in "crisp CUMMER'S Perfect (JAflVAS freshness" by every J^RESSING dainty housewife WITH CUMMER'S ffltCUMMEflPHODUCTSCO CltVEtAIO.CLEANING.
Blood Stains: Soak the stains in cold water over night. soak the stain in salts of lemon. if the stain is on a washable article. stain and not the rubbing. silk or cotton can most effectively be removed with Cummer's Energine full instructions for its use are found on the bottle. and then rinse in ammonia water. or if the ink — — — — Page 89 . or if on heavier goods. and good laundry soap. then rinse and wash carefully in tepid soap suds. which will clean woolen goods. If the article is such that it can be boiled. or if on white goods. kid gloves. We give you in these pages the addresses of first class establishments. If on thin goods pour out a little alcohol in a bowl and rub out the stain. it should then be put in very hot water. then wash in tepid soap suds and proceed as lor removing blood stains. Grass Stains: Must be removed with alcohol. Nevertheless you will need a few suggestions for removing the spots and clothes and which you may desire to stains that are so apt to get on your try to remove yourself. woolen. Soak in cold water. felts. Cocoa Stains. salt or flour until you have absorbed all the ink possible. furs.THE UNIVERSAL DRY CLEANSING // it isn't CO. silks. "Universal Dry Cleansing" It isn't the best. General Offices and Laboratories \2\$ tO 1230 East 71st St. then wash in tepid soap suds and proceed as for blood stains. Down Town Store 532 Euclid Avenue your own cleaning at home by using Cummer's Energine. and care should be taken to select a reliable place. in which has been added a mixture of equal parts of "Elwako". where you can depend upon your work being properly done. there are many garments your articles in good fresh condition. If the spot is still moist cover with sugar. then wash in sweet milk and rinse in clear tepid water. and it should always be kept on hand to keep However. Auto Call Call Us Up —Phones. and rinse thoroughly in clear tepid water. feathers and almost anything cleanable. Boil from 20 to 30 minutes. Fruit Stains: Follow directions as for removing coffee stains. Coffee Stains:— Do not soak or put into soap suds until boiling water has been poured through the cloth until the stain is removed. then pour boiling water through the of perfectly — — — spot until the stain has entirely disappeared. Ink Spots: There are many ways of removing ink spots. and Delivery Service. Rub pure lard on stain and leave for a few hours. Brass Stains. that must be otherwise your article may be returned to you ruined. rubbing until the stain disappears. so the main point is to alcohol that removes the have your cloth well saturated with the alcohol. leathers. if the goods can be boiled. dip It is the a cotton cloth into the alcohol. dry cleaned. Then follow directions as for removing blood stains. laces. Grease Spots on any fabric.
then wash gently in tepid soap in — suds and rinse in clear tepid water. Rust Stains may be removed by soaking chloric acid a diluted solution of hydro- and rinsing in clear cold water. Scorch Marks can be effectively removed only by sunshine. Piles. or rub out the spots in equal parts of turpentine and alcohol. Chafes and Croup. Or you may soak the stain in salts of lemon. Catarrh and Colds in the Head. Scalds. removed or the colors clear. Phone Crest234 - W ump ^^ Z/^» ^§S3S3Rgg0r Page 90 Prompt Service We Call For and Deliver 13256 Euclid Avenue and 13430 Euclid Avenue . but as this is a very dangerous drug to work with it is usually better to send your garment to a cleaner. or to a pint of water add one-fourth pound of sal soda. Iodine Stains can best be removed with chloroform. For Chapped or Cracked Hands. Machine will wash. Eruptions. Rough Skin. soak the stain in this solution for half an hour. Burns. or oxalic acid until the ink has been removed. if the material not rub wet borax over the spot and rinse in clear cold water. Perspiration until the stain is — Stains: Sponge with a weak solution of hydrochloric acid. Oil: for 24 hours. or turpentine and ammonia. than to attempt to do the work yourself. and one ounce of chloride of lime. Blisters. — Mildew: Soak in buttermilk spread on grass in sun.Zoa-Phora Balm No Family Supply is Complete Without Known Ointment---within easy reach at this Well Diseases. then wash in gasoline or benzine. Spots: — Rub out in kerosene and wash in tepid soap suds and rinse in clear tepid water. Bell Phone 2192 / [J Cleaners for Particular People Edd y r ^*^/S-r T s**n f^k C-5 Cuy. if Wash with cold water and a pure white soap. and then rinse in clear cold water. Tea Stains: Vaseline — Follow directions for removing coffee stains. all Children's Sore Throat. Bruises. rinse in clear tepid water. Cold on the Lungs. Insect Bites. — and Paint Spots: Rub with vaseline until paint is softened. Boils. then wash in benzine or gasoline. times Common Skin all i D rice Zjc rer oox Off D D • ALL FIRST CLASS DRUGGISTS will supply you has dried wash out the ink stains in the milk and rinse as above directed.
do not throw away the solution until goods are dry. you have a yellow dress and use a blue dye. Peacock Dyes are put up in collapsible tubes. so that it may be taken out from time to time. Princt 2906-L . Page if necessary. do not crowd the goods. the result will be a green. When several pieces are to be dyed put in the dye bath at the same time. ALL WORK GUARANTEED Fannie Hamlet. without removing the article itself. When dying. Unlike the old-time easier to handle than the old-fashioned dry powder whether it be of animal or dyes. before putting in the article to be dyed. table covers and various other articles may be dyed and brightened up. as it is The color of the impossible to dye a dark colored fabric a lighter color. you can use the same dye for any vegetable nature. so that in case the desired shade is not obtained. 2336 E. rugs. but keep them moving by stirring occasionally with a wooden stick. Boil from one-half to three-quarters of an hour in a bath containing soap. In taking goods from the dye bath. two or three 91 . same shade. to see if the desired shade is obtained. for instance. thus saving It is advisable. If. instances a few precautions in dyeing you must always follow. changing the water when times. if cotton or silk. Phone. and do not stain the hands. Do not expect to dye a dark piece of goods a light shade. and are much cleaner and dyes. The best plan is to try a small piece of goods fabric first. it becomes discolored. fabric. appear as good as new and that at but a few cents of expense. it is always best to discharge or remove as much of the old color as possible.North 776 Cent. They are easy and simple to use. Ohio DYEING. Old and worn curtains. 90th Street Cleveland. 7420-R Doan 337-L Res. they should all be otherwise a variety of shades would be the In discharging or removing old colors from material that has been previously dyed. This can be accomplished by boiling the goods. Snow Flake Hand Laundry The Cedar Cleaning Works Cleaning. to put a small time and additional expense. and see the result. the goods may be put back in the same dye bath. where without dyeing they would be useless. Dyeing Fine Lingerie and Lace Curtains Specialties and Feather Work 2420 Cedar Ave. like many other dyes. Prop. so that it takes day to wear off. when dyeing. Many old or shabby garments can be dyed and renovated and made over and months of service gotten from them. and dyed a deeper shade. piece of material in with the larger pieces. the probable result. There are in all which you are about to dye has nearly as much effect on the result as the dye you use. in fact making them in many cases.
Silks. as of old color is it tends to The removal very important in dyeing articles out the that have been previously dyed. Mixed Goods. etc. owing to article is put into the bath of some of new color. Wools. FULL DIRECTIONS ON EACH TUBE. Tablecovers. no soap should be used. as the newly dyed material the bright and uniform. Curtains. Rugs. etc. Chipped Straw. may be dyed. worn and shabby Clothes. Linens.. making them appear as good as new. old color come discharging when will not PEACOCK DYES For Home Dyeing THE ONE DYE FOR ALL FABRICS For dyeing Cotton. Basketry.When removing soften the wool. Apple Green . Raffia. color from wool. Peacock Dyes are put up in collapsible tubes. making them much easier and cleaner to handle than the old fashioned powder dyes. Feathers. By the use of Peacock Dyes in the household a great many old.
Cents in stamps and we will mail you. We also manufacture CARPET CLEANER. or those ot a dainty. Curtains or personal apparel. and will not injure any fabric.LAUNDERING. delicate texture or color. whether they be Table Linen. and restores all the original brilliancy of color without injury. sufficient for four family washings.. It contains no Lye or Acid. learned by practical experience that it saves the hard labor of rubbing and dispenses with the washboard. You must be most careful in this SETTLES THE WASH-DAY QUESTION NO LYE NO ACID WILL MAKE YOUR CLOTHES CLEAN*WHITE WITHOUT RUBBING SOLD BY GROCERS YOU SHOULD USE ELWAKO Because thousands of other women have in your weekly washing. If you are not now using it. postpaid. ELWAKO Elwako Manufacturing Co. It is a scientific Washing Compound to be used in connection with any good Laundry Soap in accordance with directions printed on each package. E. a package of regular size. that articles washed with last twice as long as when rubbed.. or perhaps some pieces which one prizes very highly and one desires to have done at home. Cleveland. and that it makes white clothes WHITE. yet there are always numberless small things. 1120 Prospect Ave. send us Ten package from your Grocer. get a If he does not keep it. is not a Soap nor a Soap Powder. It is invaluable ELWAKO ELWAKO IN It is YOUR LAUNDRY WORK sold by most Grocers. S. Page 93 . Bedding. which does wonderful work. One 25 cent can will clean any common sized rug or carpet without rinsing or removing from the floor. Ask your grocer for it also. with full directions for using. not gray or yellow. 0. In this present day of good laundries the hardest and most laborious part of the work can be sent away.
and coarser from the finer you have a large number of pieces. for you can wear your articles out more by rubbing them over a rough washboard than you would wear them out in a week of almost constant service. sprinkle with tepid is tightly and leave for at one hour. one which will First. We suggest the use of "Elwako. be careful to get good saving of labor. where they can get the full benefit of the air and sun.work. that you get on bargain counters. taking precautions to always keep the garment it form or you may render unsightly by ironing out of shape. Then always use a good laundry aid. line. blow about and tear or become stretched out of shape. as they will turn your clothes yellow and fade and cause the colors to run. — Sort over your clothes. blended. in perfect with great care. water and roll —When —Iron dry. and soak white pieces in cold water over night. wrung out of the cold water.'' as it positively contains no lye. the boiler with the clothes. Seventh. Second. least being sure that the corners are well fastened. You should first see that remove the dirt and stains and germs without the unnecessary labor of rubbing. time and wear on your clothing. bluing and good starch and if possible have your clothes hanged out of doors. Fifth. sort the and wash the finer first. for a badly laundered article is worthless to a particular or refined woman. North 975 Central 3280-W Prospect Avenue and East 14th Street A Particular Laundry for Particular People Cleveland Ohio Page 94 . are worse than worthless. and it will make your clothes clean and whte with a Further. —Boil two tubs of tepid from 20 to 30 minutes and wrinse thoroughly through one or water and then through bluing water. but over night better. — Put fill one-half of this mixture into a washboiler containing very hot water and Fourth. acid or substance of any' kind which will injure the most delicate fabric.— -Starch and hang on so the articles will not Sixth. being sure that nothing with if a color in it is put with the all-white clothes. you have a good laundry soap many of the cheaper soaps. — Shave in soap together one small cake of Elwako and one bar of any good laundry three pints of water and boil and stir until they are thoroughly Third. .
When you know what Zoa-Phora really is you will be convinced if you are suffering with any form of disease peculiar to women. No expense is spared in modern medical science are used in its its Zoa-Phora is not a secret formula." as do some of the cheap. — on the market. asked hundreds of times daily honest Before using a treatment a sensible woman wants to know what she is using she is perfectly justified in demanding an honest and straightforward answer. one of the greatest Specialists of his age in the treatment of the diseases of women. or any dangerous or 5. — of diseases of the market for the treatment 50 years. therefore. plain. does not make drunkards or a craving for stimulants. Zoa-Phora contains no alcohol positively not one drop is used. It is manufactured only of the best and most valuable roots and herbs known to science. narcotics. opiates. Zoa-Phora contains only the best and purest Positively the best ingredients preparation. tonic to carry them safely through the various changes of womanhood. known to of drugs. Present this coupon to your nearest druggist. 7. write us. If you want to be cured. composition. that you have found a treatment perfected to the limit of modern medical discovery. In addition to the splendid tonic effects of Zoa-Phora many women need a good local treatment and in order to encourage the use of our Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones in all cases when needed we are making the following offer of a full Ten Days' Treatment of our Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones (further information on page 79 of this book). Zoa-Phora 3. harmful drugs. Maiden. 1. Our remedies are used by the thinking class of women throughout the United States and we are giving you a few reasons why you are safe in choosing Zoa-Phora in preference to all other remedies and why you are guaranteed satisfaction.— WHAT Is IS ZOA-PHORA? is Zoa-Phora" THIS question "What women seeking asked by intelligent reply. 8. give Zoa-Phora a chance to do its good work. inferior preparations Zoa-Phora is not an ordinary ignorant layman. It is indeed (Woman's Friend). Zoa-Phora begins at the seat of your trouble and builds up every part of your body. Zoa-Phora is a vegetable compound. Does not this prove that Zoa-Phora is beyond question all that it is claimed to be? Write today and we will send you a copy of its formula. rational. Page 95 . are not afraid to publish to every woman and to every physician and to the whole world. and you will then know to your own satisfaction and benefit just what Zoa-Phora really is. Pengelly. and Grandmother find it the best woman's especially the sexual organism. for nearly women. No alcohol in it to Zoa-Phora is excite the nervous system and make you feel fine for a few hours and then leave you weak and exhausted. Wife. Zoa-Phora does not contain minerals. Zoa-Phora is one of the oldest reliable preparations on It has. relieved and cured the very worst forms of Female Trouble and ailments peculiar to women. a satisfactory. just what Zoa-Phora is compounded of. The following indisputable evidence will convince the most skeptical of the merits and value of Zoa-Phora. but Zoa-Phora is 2. 6. If compounded your druggist has no free box for you have him With the purchase of one Dollar-size bottle of Zoa-Phora the bearer is entitled to a full ten days' special treatment of the Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Cones which the Zoa-Phora Company are supplying the drug trade free of charge for this purpose. patent medicine— not some dope handed down by an the prescription of Dr. 4. We to cure. Zoa-Phora is Nature's own restorative and cure. No opiates or narcotics to suddenly deaden your pain and in time ruin your nervous system. and given entire satisfaction. It does not make "drug fiends. Mother.
and will wear a life time.. full line And in Lakewood and Detroit Avenue the of Zoa-Phora supplies can be procured from Lindsley Drug Co.50 ..50 Remedy - Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones Number Balm ----3 - ..DEC 19 1912 One Set of Silver Teaspoons Free To Users of Zoa-Phora Send us the front of the carton or box from any one of the packages in each of three divisions below arranged and the full set of RANTED TEASPOONS \L SIX TRIPLE PLATED.50 .25 . 18503 Detroit Avenue Go today to your nearest druggist and procure the remedies you need and send the faces from the packages direct to These beautiful teaspoons axe of the favorite Narcissus pattern. Marshall Drug Stores The May Co.25 - Not One Cent to Pay for the Teaspoons Now or Later Send us the three wrappers or cartons as indicated above. etc. 11600 Detroit Avenue Alford Crocker. The Zoa-Phora Remedies 1803 Co. Standard Drug Stores Purity Drug Co.25 .25 Digestive Tablets Stomach and Liver Pills Anti-Constipation Pills - . You can procure Zoa-Phora from every including the first class druggist in Cleveland. FULLY WARwill be sent you by return mail.50 - - .00 Cold Remedy La Grippe Remedy . which means one Zoa-Phora (Woman's Friend) wrapper and your choice of any one of the remedies in Number Two and one from Number Three. 15621 Detroit Avenue Ludwig Pharmacy. fully warranted. 16924 Detroit Avenue Dole. OHIO . best triple plated. 4706 Detroit Avenue Wilson Drug Co. Adams Street Page 96 TOLEDO. 1 - Number Number Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Pile Zoa-Phora (Woman's Friend) 2 - $1.
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 080 524 5 .
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 080 524 5 .
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