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A loose-fitting net lining for light. 5 for 15 cents. invisible.00. boned. 15 cents a pair. SI.open front or hack. lias hooks and eyes. 35 and 50 cents. 15 cents a pair. back. A— Perfected. silk *l DO. guaranteed collar supports. sealed to insure cleanliness. or lace waists on high. if Money you are not satisfied. seamless belt. You cannot make anyone of these essentials for anywhere near the price. write us. Bray. in transparent envelopes.50 to $4. white or black. Carefully manufactured of best materials for correct tailoring of garments in prevailing styles. not bust measurement. D— "GREANET" InvisibleV&isi Foundaiion ] E— Perfect rust F— Very SilkCovered armhole. "G" Co.00 (CSS) Eton front. PRACTICAL HELPS FOR THE HOME or Made / . 50 cents to $1. 3 for 10 cents. greatly improve appearance garment. $3. 00. clever pad. has hooks and eyes. ready for draping. silk Corsica. of thoroughly shrunken linen canvas reinforced with hair-cloth and felt. 75 cents. C— Tailor made. Work and Worry almost finished lining for tight-fitting waists. Designed for the trade and now sold in leading Dry Goods Stores everywhere. or nlack percaline. boned with hasted seams ahove. B— Produce of any shoulder effect desired. Black or white. Use one or all and fit Coat Fronls \ Save Time. Write Dept. 75c. Money. for short coats.^ DRESSMAKING SPECIALTIES Without Shoulder Form Long ci loulder Ready] cms Made Pitied "Waist Lining EAL. Order by exact size of Linolawn. shaped. proof. (new). very helpful in altering or reinforcing fronts. New York Page 1 .. direct or through a reliable a catalogue oj other dressmaking helps. and the Professional Dressmaker. washable. Grean Shoulder Form and Pad 327-329 East 34th Street. has Collar Support at If you cannotobtain GREAN SPECIALTIES We supply you dealer and send you will your dealer's. fills in usual hollows around overlapping padded points for shoulders. HEAVILY COVERED WITH PURE SILK FLOSS. cotton.. white your waist. chiffon. nor after hours of tiring effort obtain the perfect they insure. (1) front for long coat. pliable. on new principle.

3. 2. 23.. ". .— Hem Stitch 17.— Welt Seam — Lapped Seam — French Seam — Hemming —To Hem Corners — Damask Hem 46. 62.. (£.— Shirring 56. — Knot —Running Stitch — Basting — Backstitch — Overcasting Stitch 6 6 7 7 7 33. 57.— Milliner's Fold 39. Chevrons.— Fagot Stitch 13.— Embroidery Scallops. 41.— Blanket Stitch 24. Sewing on Lace or Embroid58.. 4.— PLAIN AND FANCY STITCHES..— French Knots 14. Lesson 29.— Long and Short Stitch 20. 47. 60.— Seed Stitch 1 5. .— Outline Stitch 8.— Tucks and Pleats 55.— Slant 6.'.— Solid Embroidery 21. 26. 36. Page 5 6 30.—TO HOLD THE GOODS 3. 52. Stays and Collar — Putting Supports — Marking of Linen and Underwear — Embroidery Designs in in . 48.— Damask Stitch 16. Emblems and Monograms — Eyelets — —To and Eyelet Embroidery 14 16 16 16 16 17 17 18 54.—Satin Stitch (French broidery) 8 37. 59. — Facings — Gathering Hem 26 26 26 26 27 27 22. EmIS.— Braiding 28.— Felled Seam — Bound Seam — Strap Seam 45.—Ruffles 26.— Punch Work 16.— Piping 40. Page 21 21 21 . 49. 31.— INTRODUCTION 2.— Rolled 53. 5. 32.— Feather Stitch 19. GUjrato Nutnttan IpII Eaat 541 13TB East mtlf fctrwt COATES SEWING AND DRESS MAKING MANUAL Published by Coates Advertising Agency. 8 8 9 10 10 10 11 11 11 43.— Catch Stitch 12. 22 22 23 24 24 24 24 24 24 24 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 51.. 34..— Chain Stitch 9. 14. 4. Make Buttonholes 20 — ery Embroidery — Setting on Lace or and Eyes — Sewing Hooks 27.- 61. .- 12 13 13 13 — Cording — Seams 42.- — Sewing on Buttons — Loops — Darning — Stoting — Patching — Overhand Patch" — Bands and Folds .'. 27 28 28 28 29 Copyright 1912 by Lydia Trattles Coates Page 2 . 50.— Button Hole Stitch 25.— Couch Stitch 1 1. 35.IttHtntfittfltt —loral Beginners' Voices Carefully Built and Trained lira.— Cross Stitch 18. .— Double Folds 38. 27. Lesson 1 .'.'. 44. Ohio CONTENTS 1.— Cable Stitch 10. -WORKING INSTRUCTIONS. Cleveland. and Overhanding 7 7.

Boston Dr.- —Jackets 76 76 78 79 80 81 81 PRESS50 50 51- — Sponging -Pressing 98.— Girl's School Dress 103. 94. (B) — Scientific Beauty Culture 5811. 89.— Petticoats — Skirts and Underwear Without Plackets — Dressing Sacques (F) (G) " 78.— Pockets Traveling Skirts and Busi- 46 47 47 96. 85. 82 83 83 84 85 85 . 86.— Night Gowns — Combination Undergarments. — AND 48 48 49 MATERNITY OUTFIT.— Girl's -Gowns 104. Lesson Lesson 74. —The Young Lady's Dresses — Maternity Outfit Wardrobe 9. Cleveland and Graduate of School of Expression. Page 64 65 66 66 67 67 67 68 68 68 69 70 71 71 84.— Children's Underwear Outfit. 88.— MILADY'S WORDROBE (A) — Corsets (B)— Sanitary Belts (C) — Sanitary Skirt Protectors. 82. SHRINKING ING. 93.— High Collars 67. — Children's 136.— NECESSARY (A) MAKING ACCESSORIES (B)—Threads (C)— Sewing Thread (D) (E) SEWING AND Page DRESS30 30 30 31 313431 33 — Sewing Machine (F)— Linings (G)— Patterns — Embroidery Thread Hooks and Eyes (H)— Tape (I)— Dress (J) 35 35 Shields 39- 36 37 —Dress Form —Dress Trimmings 6.—Turn Down Collars 69. — Making of Dinner Gowns. . 75. 110. 16.— CUTTING. FOR 42 42 43 44 45 45 43- Kimonas 87.— Coat Sleeve 73. Costumes and Coats 77- 95.5410. 65. and Shrinking 13. 99.— FITTING AND ALTERATIONS. Cuffs and Lap Closings 72.— INFANT'S OUTFIT Lesson — Making the Infant's " 107.. 57 58 60 61 61 62 63 64 64 —Rompers Coats 15. ness 72- 90.— Shirt Waist Sleeves 71.— LAUNDERING 3 88 91 93 86 86 87 93 92 94 Page . — Street. —Boning 38 40 41 — Shirt Waist Supporter — Rain Coat and Waterproof Garments Lesson — Corset Covers — Drawers " — Chemise " 81. President Bell Doan 1369-R 9608 Hough Avenue CONTENTS 5..— DYEING 18.— Sleeves 70. 80. Curry.— Shirt Waists 91...Inatruflton Expression Literature Interpretation Pantomime Harmonic Training Art of Play Writing and Criticism iFlomtrp Hartlja itaaett (Swr^r) Graduate of Harroff School of Expression. Cutting 53 —CHILDREN'S CLOTHES.. Lesson " " 102.— Dress 12. 8.— COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS SPECIFIC WORK Lesson — Plackets —Belts and Bands —Yoke and Peplums (K) (L) 63.— SPONGING..—THE WELL GROOMED WOMAN.— Making of Gowns 92. 83. 79.— Aprons — — Lingerie Waists — Housekeeping Gowns — Evening and Dinner Gowns. 66.— SCHOOL Lesson " " 14 101. Lesson 97. (A) — The Well Groomed Woman. 100. (D)— Millinery (E) — Lingerie 76.— Tailored Collars 68. — Lesson — Fitting and Alterations. 72 74 75 75 7. — Children's 105.— CLEANING 17. 77. 64. — Maternity Corsets —Maternity Gowns — Maternity Skirts GIRLS' SUPPLIES.

OXYDONOR "This wonderful little appliance. David (Shirtwaist Belts) Battle Creek Sanitarium Food Co Belding Bros.. (Ganesh Toilet Preparation) A. (Peacock Carlton Monks. Thus writes Are you suffering from Rheumatism. The process is natural and very simple. Berthe (Corsets) 86 19 53 58 51 II May Co. Margaret B. (Ice Cream) Universal Dry Cleansing Co Victor Insect Exterminating Co 43 75 & Florence Martha (Expression) Frederick Piano Co Fries & Schuele Fulton. Co. & Co Lawson School of Music Lickes Drug Co... if you want pREE— Books on Health. 76.. (Morlene) Korach. 29 21 34 23 12 17 7 Arbor Tea Shop Art Pleating Shoppe Baird Bros. (Dunham's Specific) Long. or are any of your family suffering from disease? If so. (Fashion Book) B. 95. (Wrinkle Eradicators) 64 26 61 64 5 84 64 52 80 40 56 56 33 2 5 31 8 34 25. Co.. (Book and Art Exchange). infallible as the daily rising Investigate. H.. The May. (Senora Coffee) 24 22 24 Wm. (Elwako Laundry Aid) Euclid Cafetiere (Lunch Club) Farr. T. Grean Shoulder Form and Pad Grean Dress Making Specialties Grean Long Coat Front Foundation Grean Short Coat Front Foundation Grean's "Greanet" Grean Fitted Waist Lining Grean Coat Collars Fassett. 68 9 72 41 46 54 37 11 Review Co. Miss L. Main 730 Ohio Agency.. No... health.. 13. (Sewing Silk) Belding Bros. Pictoral Pictorial J. (Cravenette) 60 88 9 Dye) Dowd. Diabetes. L. (Funeral Director). R. Maud De Long (Dermatologist) Smith Carriage & Auto Co Smith Chemical Co. Cleveland Credit Clothing Co Cleveland Dress Trimming Co College of Science (Acme) Connelly Co. invented by Dr. Frank (Dentist) Electra Pure Water Co. C. & (Shino) (Dress Form) Co. & C. Co. The C. Mrs. but as and setting of the sun. 4 P. Ellen C. (Real Estate) Conover. Co. Wm. (Energine Shoe Dressing) Devoe... Pioneer Mfg. Dr.. Mandarin. G. F.. F. 337 Old Arcade INDEX TO ADVERTISERS Page Adair. Stomach Trouble. (Tape) Sons Co. Van Gorder (Havanco Mending Tissue) Haserot Co. Young Women's Zoa Phora Co Christian 57. A. (Sanitary Belt). performs which border on miracles. H. (Domestic Cleaner) Swalley's Credit Store Telling Co. . ("Hair Vim") Snow Flake Laundry Shaver. 64 38 66 32 36 62 83 96 Page 4 . Joseph. E.. Mfg. Stroud. Spinal Trouble. E. Restaurant Co. M. Abbie E. (Dentist) Bryson Co. W. 31. B. Rosenblum Clothing Co Sanar Remedy Co (Attorneys at Law) Shop of Kimonas and Art Laces Skalla. E.. (Osteopathic Physician) Morehouse Co Noteman. Phone. even if all else has failed. Raynolds Co. Co. you will be restored to health. C.. Sanche's Oxydonor's and by the use of it as directed. & Co. & & Sons Co. Co. T. (Sanitary Protectors) American Textile Mfg. (Naiad Dress Shield) Continental Casualty Co Creme de Luxe Cummer Products Co. Mrs. 30. etc. Co. 69 63 16 76 91 15 8. (Embroidery Catalog). Ohio Office Furniture Co 91 5 Oxydonar Parrish." Edward Rigby of Lisbon. Priestley. Sanche for the purpose of healing the sick. Wright. (Embroidery Initials) 74 50 39 65 94 14 29 28 18 19 71 Richardson Silk Facial College Elwako Mfg. ' . Mrs. (Public Stenographer). (Embroidery Scallops) Reis Initial Co. & C. (Linings) Belle Vernon Dairy Co Berner's Art Store Boston Dry Goods Co B. Association 7. & P. Oxydonor will do it. Co. (Piano Instruction) 58 20 60 93 42 73 3 ' Co G. (Woven Names) Reis Initial Co. N. (Katharos) Ellsworth Public Hand Laundry Reis Initial Co. Mrs. Co. Ohio. Pneumatic Form Co. Review Co. 55. 6 44 60 47 1 Vacuum 20 55 89 13 77 78 54 35 45 48 55 Grean Arm Pad Grean Fitted Belt Griffith Warner Hat Shoppe Warren Featherbone Co White Sewing Machine Co Wilson Dress Hook Co Wright. Hall. * Call or Send 10 Cents for Postage. (Dust Bright) 59 63 10 Page Hawley Restaurant Henke Furniture Co Hexter's Lining Store Ideal Faucet Syringe Co Interstate Drug Co.. (Manicuring and Chiropody). by all means secure one of Dr. E. (Embroidery Silk) Belding Bros. (Sleeve Initials) Reis Initial Co. Nervousness. Chester (Vocal Instruction). cures. (Sewing Machine Supplies) Studio (Art Work) Cedar Cleaning Works Chandler.. (Monarch Polish) Basch. Miller.

CO. Sewing is an art and the woman who clothes herself with an eye to bringing out the possibilities of her grace and beauty and best points of individuality. 111-112 Old Arcade . We have made the system as brief and as easy as possible and by following faithfully the instructions and always turning to the lessons designated you will find that you have a reliable guide to the making of every essential garment for your wardrobe. trimmings. THE OHIO OFFICE Chandler Central 332 1-K Main 1368 FURNITURE Bell. and hiding any possible defects of her contour or carriage will work as an artist. Ohio 429 The Arcade North 1450 I. L. E. Quigley Desks Chairs Armor-Clad Steel Furniture Cuspidors and other Office Furniture Murphy & Gunlocke Miss L.Public Stenographer Duplicating Filing Devices Tables. On the other hand if they know just how to go ahead and have each step made plain for them to follow they could add many beautiful garments to To be sure much that is very helpful their wardrobe at a very small cost. as the means of presenting to the world her ideal of thought. without as complete a wardrobe as they would like to have or pay out more money than they feel that they should spare to get . simple and comprehensible set of Sewing and Dress Making Lessons have been compiled without waste of words or unnecessary repetitions.. 1145 Prospect Ave. For this reason this plain. non-individual clothes simply because they do not know exactly how to cut and fit and make and finish the articles of their apparel and without complete instructions before them do not feel like risking the time and the material in experimenting. but many women do not preserve these periodicals or have not the time to wade through all the other literature and sometimes a labyrinth of instructions to find out the system of properly cutting out and putting together and finishing a dress or suit or piece of underwear or perhaps doing up a piece of household sewing. laboritheir — ous piece of drudgery. has been written on the subject of sewing and many of our best magazines have given us invaluable information. Thus dressmaking will become an Art and a Science and a pleasure instead of a nerveracking.. Cleveland. S. INTRODUCTION. Many women go garments made or are forced to wear unbecoming. LAXATIVE BRAN BISCUITS "The samples you gave do the work ine were delicious" BATTLE CREEK SANITARIUM FOOD Page 5 CO. using herself as the model and her materials.. etc.

. IV. Lesson 17. (3) (4) Lesson Hemstitch.. . gathering. Always hold the goods in a position so the stitches are taken toward you. needle with proper sized thread and hold in Wind thread once over forefinger of right hand and pull tightly.oOOCNO''. CHAPTER PLAIN. (1) (2) Slant Stitch. Basting Stitch.CHAPTER III. W. . Lesson Stitch. TO HOLD THE GOODS.—Thread AND ORNAMENTAL STITCHES. Always take stitch under the hem or seam to hide knot but in open space where this is not possible fasten thread by taking two or three stitches over each other or — KNOT. be in constant use for seams on light etc.->. Knots should never be visible in any sewing except in basting. Lesson 5. .— stitches through the cloth should It will be of exact and equal length. Running 2. The Lesson 2. -. Sit up straight. leaving the right hand Never hold the work so as to crush and free with which to do the stitches. but learn and practice holding and doing your work properly and sitting erect.— RUNNING STITCH. F. by backstitching (Lesson 4). crumble it nor yet so loosely that the stitches are taken unevenly. hold the work firmly in the left hand. FREDERICK PIANO CO. materials. FANCY Lesson 1. and do not form the bad habit of pinning the work to your skirts and then humping over to do it or winding seams over the forefinger of your left hand. French seams. The Proof of the Pudding is in the Eating The Proof of "Frederick Service" In the Trying is Every Record Every Victrola $15. hemming of fragile garments. left hand.$200 Sound Proof Demonstrating Parlors Experienced Salesmen. 3. Try Our Superior Service Today. 1612 EUCLID AVENUE Page 6 .

then take a short back stitch back on the upper side and a long stitch forward on the under side. Begin next stitch exactly where last stitch left off on upper side of sewing (see cut 1). (See cut 1.— SLANT STITCH. Making Trade Class Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister Cooking fundamental principle of all good fitting and adjusting lies in the proper basting. Insert the needle under the fold. Point the needle toward the left shoulder and pass it through a few folds of the material and a few threads of the fold. Beginners or Advanced Pupils Private or Class Lessons Day or Evening Jim Best Instruction Moderate Prices Page 7 . practical and artistic manner.—The Lesson 5. —BASTING. Lesson 3.— Begin at the right and work toward the left. Voice Culture of both the singing and speaking voice a specialty. From under side draw needle through cloth exact depth to be overcasted or overhanded and take stitch over and through twice to hold firmly. Lesson 4. Lesson 6. The half back stitch is taken half way back between the space of where the thread is drawn through and where the stitch leaves off on the upper side.— OVERCASTING AND OVERHANDING.—Take a few running stitches (see Lesson 2). progressive. page 6). Ohio West Side Branch Franyin and West 32nd Home Nursing Home Making Chafing Dish St.— BACKSTITCH.Sewing Millinery Apply to the Cookery Dining Room Service Dietetics Dressmaking Tailoring Shirt Waist Young Women's Christian Association Prospect Avenue and East 18th Cleveland. using two or three stitches to hold (never knot under a fold). varying the distance between stitches according to the quality and thickness The two important features of perfect overcasting or overof the material. handing are to have needle point at exact depth and be exact distance between each stitch. Hold your goods with the edges which you are sewing on toward you. Ohio All branches of Music and Dramatic Art taught in a thorough. Lay your cloth perfectly in place and then fasten by taking even or uneven running stitches through the material as in cut. Use Slant Stitch (see Lesson 5). This is one of the most particular lessons in sewing as every stitch must be exactly the same in height and distance apart.— Baste material with edges exactly even or if single trim smooth and even. CIk Cawson School of music and Other Tine 10507 Superior Avenue Cleveland.

half stitch is (see way back the center. 528 Broadway STITCH. ing stitch and draw rather yet not enough to wrinkle the goods.— CABLE STITCH. your dealer does not carry "Belding's. guaranus. side of the Take each stitch back two threads on the precedtightly. Lesson 9.American STITCH.— The the cable as the chain stitch needle is made almost exactly Lesson 8). holding your work with the needle pointing toward you and always keeping the thread on the same needle. & CO. hold down Draw you. except that drawn through at the side.— Take even stitches." write tell you where it can be obtained. of the previous stitch.— OUTLINE T TTVT/^O French . take a short stitch through the material.— CHAIN the top of your design and always your needle to point a towards needle through material. thread under thumb form loop. If and we will BELDING BROS. Belding's teed fast dve. New Process Embroidery Silk and every conceivable shade. bringing needle through one stitch distance ahead and proceed as before. in eight different twists. instead of at Page 8 .Have You Tried T^T lriLLlllVJO ICECREAM? Lesson 7.— Start have left New York at City Lesson 8.

Price 10 cents. profusely illustrated and contains designs for all the various kinds of embroideries. COSTUMES. Seed. The "New" Pictorial Review Embroidery Catalog is filled with ideas and suggestions of interest to any It is woman who em- broiders or does fancy work. by mail. Pictorial Fully explained and illustrated in linen. Satin. Underin not forgetting the exquisite designs for wear. Are all illustrated. HAND BAGS. Hold the threads in place with your left hand and fasten them to the material with small stitches on the right side. SUITS. Add 15 cents for The New Pictorial Review Embroidery Catalog. Etc. or The May Co. N. either the These may be obtained Transfer or Perforated Patterns Purchase a copy today at any newsdealer. 15 cents THE PICTORIAL REVIEW COMPANY THE PICTORIAL REVIEW BUILDING 222 West 39th Street. Solid and Outline Including numerous designs for the popular Braid Work and the Punched Embroidery. BELTS. Page 9 . Y. many DOILIES. SKIRT PANELS. and Infants' and Children's Wear. —'Couching thread at is made by apart laying straight lines equal distances across the design. Send 20 cents for a sample of this work begun on special and one large needles. —COUCH of STITCH. such as Eyelet. New The New of the Review Embroidery Catalog. SHIRT WAISTS.Lesson 10. having the stitches in each row fall between those of the opposite row. New York.

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FRAMING A SPECIALTY. Lesson Protect -Yourself . High Grade Stationery. page 6. CONTINENTAL CASUALTY CO. insert the to as many threads as are desired (always the same number).— Fasten up the thread on right side. Schofield Bldg. At the place where the threads cross catch to thread desired down with the cross stitch. Cleveland. china decorating and firing.— SEED STITCH.— DAMASK needle across STITCH. also teach work. Anniversary. Lesson 14. O.Watt. laid draw through in the number of threads have been opposite direction at even distances apart another set of threads. pastel or crayon.Breadwinner Then when the unforseen. Lesson 15. and ask us to tell you today and let us explain or call up CENTRAL WHAT FIVE CENTS PER DAY WILL DO FOR YOU. your cash income does not stop just when you most need it. for exact position of needle). Come in 2357 -W. LONG teach or paint to order. (See Lesson 11. group from three toward you. W. Congratulations for Birth Carlton Studio 1430 Announcements and other special occasions.and .— HEMSTITCHING. and draw the needle through to the right of the group and take a short stitch in the fold (See cut No. needle under and through the hem. wrong side and bring the through pattern to carrying When the be worked. of the hem. stitches The rows must be evenly spaced and the each row falling midway between those of the rows at either side of them.the . pictures in Book ana Art exchange 31 Taylor Arcade Monogram Work. 1. 358 The Arcade SICKNESS OR AN ACCIDENT MAY COME TOMORROW ACT TODAY — Page 11 .Mgr. unexpected piece of bad luck comes. Dainty Cards.—The back seed stitch is made by taking small stitches covering the leaf or petals of a design or in monogram. THE ELLEN and C. Be positively and safely provided for by the largest Health and Accident Insurance Company in the world. We insure both Men and Women.) 16. Birthday.Art We do stencil Work oil. Paints for china 10c and 15c each. water-color.E. Wedding..— Draw the required number of threads Hold the hem and turn hem and baste exactly below last thread drawn.

GOITRE will disappear when treated with MORLENE Also Thick Neck. possible misrepresentation case Morlene relieves the able conditions accompanying Goitre and gives entire satisfaction to how bad or how long standing. the breathing or the blood flow to and from the brain. Enlarged Joints. to avoid will cure any case of Goitre. therefore we want every person afflicted with Goitre and similar troubles to know that there is a remedy which is really a success in If 92% of all cases. have relatives or friends who it. we will say that in every dangerous and disagree92% of all cases.— The cross stitch simply bringing one stitch across the angle of the other. and it often produces dangerous condiaffecting the eyes. 50 and we will promptly deliver a full size package containing a sufficient quantity for an ordinary treatment of 30 days. If he fails send us SI. They should know about if he wants your trade. Inflammations The above statement has been so thoroughly proven that we are almost tempted to say Morlene However. Thick Neck or Goitre by Tumors and for the sake of a better appearance the Double Chin. Your druggist can supply you MANUFACTURED ONLY BY The Interstate Drug Company 12 Cleveland. to say the least. no matter tions is unsightly and disagreeable. Double Chin. Morlene is not an experiment. are. Tumors. its effectiveness has been thoroughly proven.Lesson 17.— CROSS is STITCH. so it is always best to get rid of any enlargements about the throat whether they be Goitre. Ohio Page . you are not tell them afflicted but of Morlene.

and two stitches to the left.— Mark thread along the line chalk or run a colored to be followed. 426 PROSPECT Both Phones Victor Insect 351 The Arcade Exterminating Co. (see Lesson except that one stitch in is taken. etc. is The double feather or briar stitch is made by taking two stitches to the right of one while the triple feather stitch right and three to the left. Hotels. White Sewing Machine Co. CLEVELAND. rats. thread stitch down directly on downward to left the of the mark or mark line and hold with thumb and take short or line and repeat taking stitch. Thread Cast-off (it's exclusively White) and the difficulty vanished as if DON'T NEGLECT YOUR HOME by magic. We rid Boats. upholstered furniture. bring needle through to right side.— FEATHER tailor's STITCH— BRIAR STITCH. Churches and Stores of all germs. left line.—LONG AND SHORT STITCH — stitch Follow exact instructions as slant 5). one-half the dis- tance depth as the succeeding one. hold thread take a short stitch through and to the right side of down with the mark or thumb.— the the only is equipped with a Cast-off. It should be fumigated by our method once a year it will be clean and healthful. ONLY No powder dust left — No poison— No bad odors.— Is Page 13 made by using is the in. Our experts Our methods are used & B. Knot bring thread. (See cut). insects. exclusively on the C. and recommended by the State Medical authorities as being the only absolute remedy known to Science. are at your service. bedding. Happily the White experts came to the rescue with this remarkable device THREAD CAST-OFF THE White Rotary Thread machine — SANITATION HEALTH HAPPINESS Our method is of fumigation and insect extermination absolutely the most up-to-date and efficient method in use. It is the method endorsed by the Government experts of all nations. and you can imagine the annoyance it has caused the operator. Let us hear from you. etc.— SOLID EMBROIDERY. There's no time like the present to look the White over. It's just another instance of White superiority. long and short stitch in successive rows until the design entirely filled . mice. Warehouses. Penetrates through plastering. to say nothing of the loss of time in trying to get the machine to work right. O. rs^J Lesson 20. instead made by taking three stitches to the Lesson 19. manufacturers of Rotary machines have had a world of trouble with the thread tangling in the shuttle race. with pencil or Lesson 18. Talk about trouble why. —then Boats. first on the right then on the left.

Reis' Letters and Scallops make embroidering simply delightful with the Stamping. Remarkable as it may seem.— EMBROIDERY SCALLOP STITCH. Reis Gumbac Foundations are not made of ordinary paper or even papier mache. LEARN AX OUR EXPENSE How easily the most inexperienced sewer can create perfectly stunning effects in embroidery with the new Reis Gumbac Foundations Scallops. If you can thread a needle you can successfully use them. sample strips of scallops and samples of the Reis Letters in your initial. The cut shown in Lesson 25. Lesson22. shows the exact position of the needle. and retail at a uniform price of 10c per card of to the small sizes and S of a yard to the large. They are very simple. You will use the Satin Stitch in making in the Chevrons. we guarantee that they will retain their shape and appearance through all the washings. a name of a dealer in your city stamp and the who would most you in re- likely handle our goods. Hold thread under left thumb forming loop.— Fasten thread by running and back stitches. and in satin stitch is the stitch taken straight across from one edge to the other of the design or taken on a slant from one edge to the opposite edge. especially silk will add to when working mono- Block Old English — easily accomplished 2-cent by interlacing Send us your name. page IS. many other designs so much vogue at the present time. Nor will they discolor or harm the finest fabric." 1J 4 Gumbac Scallops come in six styles— 26 patterns.ed des'gns the letters. New York Page 14 . Take stitch through material depth desired with needle pointing downward. silk or cotton.— SATIN STITCH. Just moisten the back and stick on. of embroidery their attractiveness. desired tone of expressive charm— an indication of character— the "intangible something" of which a woman can well be proud. The material in their composition is of European origin. the scallops or embroidered edge vary according to the Often the depths of pattern or design to be worked and the outline must be very carefully followed. new Sold at the Art Counter of Any Department Store Reis Initials. boilings and ironings that the article on which they are embroidered will withstand. Our standing offer is as follows: "We Will Pay for Any Garment Injured Gumbac Foundations Through Washing or Re!s by Reis Ironing. 620 Broadway. Underlaying and Basting difficulties eliminated. We will send turn our In Sizes from % inch to 10 Inches. Draw needle through loop and repeat taking every stitch very closely together so no gap appears between the stitches. booklets. yards REIS FOUNDATION LETTERS Are made Script in three styles: Harmonizing colors gramrr. REIS' FOUNDATION Letters and Scallops They add that much help to make your wearing apparel and household linen distinctively rich.Lesson 21. and work over with That's all.— (French Embroidery)— The or Initials.

etc. Then you must pad your scallops with the chain stitch using a good filling cotton. For free demonstration phone Main 2463. With these attachments you have a cleaner with every advantage of an electric machine at a little greater cost than the best Bissell Carpet Sweeper. Ohio . cabinet built and will the only hand cleaner The DOMESTIC is with attachments for cleaning Mattresses. Then a running stitch must be very carefully taken at the exact line desired to indicate the depth. When your foundation is completed then embroider according to embroidery scallop is is There and there an a stitch. 15 STROUD CO. is The DOMESTIC last a lifetime. THE B. H. The old method is to buy a transfer pattern or hire the stamping done. or come to our office. Upholstery. old. pleasant and easy way. The DOMESTIC Hand Cleaner is as powerful as the best portable electric. & C. 510 The Arcade Page Cleveland.THE OLD WAY TO EMBROIDER SCALLOPS. is only Vacuum Cleaner with Full Ball-Bearings and a BaliBearing Adjustable Roller under the suction the plate for light or The DOMESTIC heavy cleaning. Lesson 22. D OMESTIC VACUUM C LEANER Dirt and Dust are a Constant Menace to Your Home A of large percent of our contagious dis- eases are carried into the home by reason germ laden dust. or Central 8258 K. tedious and laborious manner of embroidering scallops new. E.

Bring up the the work. — Lesson 24. REMODELING AND REPAIRING.— Thread the long special and knot it at the eye. Then send the needle down in the first dot of the second row and bring it up in the second dot of the first row. Smith. Lesson 26.— BLANKET STITCH. drawing needle through loop. Either manner is correct. taking care to always have the stitches exactly the same distance apart and exactly the same height. Make stitches very even and rather tight and then shape perfectly with .— BUTTONHOLE STITCH. Then fastening your thread on the under side of the material. which can be embroidered over without any of the preliminary work explained. By needle courtesy of Pictorial Review Co. Run a cotton thread around the outlines with very small running stitches to hold the form. 1911 Cars Remodeled with Fore Doors and Repainted to Resemble 1912 Models Telephone--East S40 1970 EAST 66TH STREET.— PUNCHED used for WORK. bring in first the first it Page 16 . and repeat. procure the necessary length of Reis Foundation Gumbac Scallops. Hold thread under left thumb forming loop take stitch depth desired with needle pointing downward. L.— EYELETS EYELET EMBROIDERY. F. NEAR CORNER OF EUCLID AVENUE Smith Carriage $ Auto Co.— Begin by fastening thread by using running and back stitch. See cut of Lesson 25. To save time and energy and to insure satisfactory results with your work. for exact position of needle. Proprietor THE NEW WAY TO EMBROIDER SCALLOPS. Pass down needle dot of the dot of the second row.— Eyelets may be round. except that in embroidery the point of the needle is toward the edge while in buttonholeing the point of the needle is toward the cloth. AND Set the needle for each stitch just outside the cotton outline stitch and draw the point through the stilettoed opening or set the needle through the opening. a small distance apart. row. This eliminates all the drudgery of stamping your design and all the filling-in work and gives a much more desirable effect than you can possibly obtain by the ordinary methods. Lesson 25.AUTOMOBILE PAINTING. Lesson 23. begin work in the upper left-hand corner of the design. The blanket stitch is the same as the buttonhole stitch only each stitch is made instead of very close together as the buttonhole stitch is done. TRIMMING. All you need to do is to moisten the scallop. send it down in the first up again in the first dot of the first row and draw the thread slightly to pull the goods together. oblong or pointed. bringthe ing the point just outside the outline stitch.the stiletto. press down with your hand and work over with the stitch taught you in Lesson 22. oval.—The Buttonhole stitch and the Embroidery Scollop stitch are done exactly the same (see Lesson 22). then punch with a stiletto.

(Braiding and Embroidering) W. On heavy goods such as velvet. Misses' Braided in and Children's Dresses. Joseph Korach 1258 ^—^— & Company II. i Lesson 27. It can be developed with plain braid. not having the time or the inclination to do this work for themselves can make up their garment and then have experienced braiders neatly and carefully carry out your ideas in any simple or elaborate design which you may select. pass down through the second dot of When the second row and bring up again in the third dot of the first row. The stitch used to sew on the braid is a short stitch on the right side of the For materials of net. serge or linen a braid or cord the color of the material should be used. draw the thread a bit. Braiding Ladies'. most artistic and approved designs. CLEVELAND. chiffon braid or cord and a long stitch on the back. gowns. of your We also make buttons own call material in all styles. so the plainest or the most fastidious tastes can be satisfied.^ through the second dot of the second row. Coats and Blouses the latest. evening wraps or children's dresses and can be used on any material. so that the effect will be one of little squares.li l —^— Page 17 . cord. soutache. or marquisette a dull silver or fine gold or soft silk cord put on with button The stamping of hole couching makes a most beautiful border or trimming. bias tubing or fine embroidery or the design can be followed with the outline or chain stitch._l-Mi 1^- H I L^. these patterns for braiding must be most carefully done and the design followed exceedingly accurately in order to produce a satisfactory effect. you have done all of the work in one direction. bring up through the second dot of the first row. To secure the most attractive effect the braid should be sewed on the edge so that it will stand up on the material. There infinite variety of beautiful designs and patterns now in vogue for is an Those braiding. suits. Braiding is most suitable and effective for a border or a trimming for waists. Suits.— BRAIDING. Bring your work to us or phone and we will tell us up by either you what we can do for you. turn the naterial and repeat the stitch at right angles to the first set of stitches. OHIO m^m j i ——— jj i . FOURTH STREET.

Sold at the needlework department of every department and dry goods store or send for our illustrated bcok on embroidering and samples in your initials.— MONOGRAMS. and sew on. Page 18 .Use Reis Foundation Letters for initials. etc. your monograms or We have plain and suitable for fancy letters every need of embroidery linen. rons and monograms on a separate piece See of broadcloth or linen. while grown ups always appreciate their monogram neatly worked on their garments. Made in three styles-— Old English— Script— Block— sizes ^g inch to 10 inches. cutting the paper or crinoline away as soon as finOr you may embroider the chevished. such as lingerie. chevrons and monogram foundations and selves work over them with the Lesson 21). table covers. Chevrons and emblems are very appropriate for sailor suits. You can either get the Reis emblems. or crinoline or stiff lessons on embroidery for the monogram work. will supply you with Reis Foundation Letters for any desired purpose Ask Q t the needlework department Lesson 28. and a number of purposes which present them- and children always delight in an emblem or chevron on their arm. boys' suits. household handkerchiefs. CHEVRONS AND EMBLEMS. Etc. satin stitch (see you can stamp them on paper and baste them on the goods and embroider. REIS 630 ASHABLE LETTERS •«amo r M«»OOIf)EBV BROADWAY NEW YORK The Morehouse Co. work bags.

This extraordinary offer is made to convince every woman of the superiority Richardson's Grand Prize Wash Embroidery Silk Why your home with attractive and not beautify effective pillows when the opportunity is offered? We will give you tire this en- Pillow Outfit including 1 Pillow Top — either oblong or square Every woman wants these attractive pillows and also knows the true value of —tinted on Aberdeen Crash.— This Beautiful Pillow FREE f All we ask is that you buy 6 skeins of Grand Prize Wash Embroidery Silk Richardson's or trated lesson for ZDC and a The fully illusPillow Top and Back are absolutely FREE. and Six Skeins of Richardson's Mercerized Cotton Floss for BERNER'S ART STORE Arcade Building oniy 25 cents Page Cleveland 19 :: Ohio TOUR CHOICE OF TWELVE DESIGNS . Richardson's 1 Back for Pillow 1 Grand Prize Grecian Floss On sale at Diagram Lesson arrangement of stitches — showing and color scheme.

KATHAROS KATHAROS due to the liberation of gas during the electrolytic action. Pay as you can spare it. First mark the exact length of buttonhole you desire. 3241-W Cleveland. Women. The Purest Water Sold in Cleveland ( Bacterial Tests Abundantly Prove the Truth of this Statement ) THE PROCESS OF PURIFICATION necessary for the production of Katharos is the most advanced known to science. THE BOTTLES ARE STERILIZED and rinsed with Katharos before being filled.Clothes of Quality for Men. IS AS AS DISTILLED WATER. then cut straight the slit to be worked.— TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES. Ohio Lesson 29. PURE ALWAYS PURE— CONTAMINATED h°nes : N ^r t 34 6 The Electra Pure Water Co. at prices absolutely as low as at any cash store. in the exact place you desire it. Quality. otherwise you may ruin your garment. None of the tonic values are lost. TERMS— $1. the DIFFERENT. KATHAROS HAS LIFE AND SPARKLE. Clothes of the BETTER SORT of Clothing.00 I'M THE MAN That'll Always Give You Down. but is much more palatable and tonic in its qualities. NOTHING BENEFICIAL IS REMOVED by the process of purification. Ohio Page 20 . over cast the edges then work with the button hole stitch (as per Lesson 24). Distinction and Style. It contains enough of the minerals and salts to make it the most healthful of drinking waters. then run a thread around the space you intend to cut. which is best described as being pure until it is declared impure. 2035 East 18th Street Cent. Springs situated in proximity to thickly populated districts are peculiarly liable to sudden contamination. Cleveland. A SQUARE DEAL CWALLEY'S CREDIT STORE ^"^ 424 Euclid Ave. The volume of sickness traceable to SPRINGS is of vast proportions.— Unless you have tested your skill in making buttonholes it will be wise for you to practice until you are in a fair way to feel confidence in your ability. IS in which respect it is very unlike spring water. Boys and Children ON CREDIT HERE you'll find the NEW.

30th . ON Lesson 31. as it should match in color and quality. Page 21 Co. continue till loop is covered. they should be basted on a flat surface. then measure exact place button is needed. The Henke Furniture 3001-3021 Lorain Ave. then begin on the cross wise threads and run over and under the lengthwise threads altering the over and under stitch. Then begin at the bottom of the threads and insert the needle under the loops and over the thread. Lesson 32. but in mending most materials. Fasten your thread with the over and over stitch. Fasten the thread well on the under side by several over and over stitches. When the button is securely sewed on wind the thread a few times around under the button and fasten well on the under side of the garment. Place button directly over mark or pin and bring up thread through holes of the buttons. leaving the thread moderately loose. The darning thread to be used depends entirely — — — on the material to be darned. then fasten well on under side.— Have button hole completed first. cor. Always begin a little beyond the worn places so your stitches will hold. In mending stockings a darning ball may be used. and in many instances a thread or ravelling drawn from the goods itself is preferable. draw through cloth and bring thread loosely down to exact length desired.. LOOPS.— Lesson 30. DARNING.— SEWING BUTTONS. such as stiff paper or thin oil-cloth. and examine our Furniture and Floor Coverings. repeat three or four times or until you have thickness consistent with the weight of goods you are working on. Get acquainted with our stock and new things with which our store is Let us show you what beautiful pieces can be had for little money. W. allowing the eye of the needle to pass under first. HAVE YOU EVER INSPECTED OUR LARGE FURNITURE STORE? It Will Pay Come You in to Do So see the filled. and mark either with a pin or with tailor's chalk. and run your thread exactly along the lengthwise thread of the garment.

Same directions goods or other goods where part is worn thin and a patch required. or will of the price in stamps. — Stoting. Remember do patches. druggists. Baste patch on wrong side of goods. boiled. — Stoting be is used on »%&&% WTPrfiiTi?lIli-- heavy goods. and useful for making many other kinds of repairs quickly and effectively. and on a rent or cut in a material which needs patching. and patches can be put on and repairs made on a moment's notice by adhering to the following directions: Brush leaving size it all dust from garments. the stitch to mended without darning or is A is thread from the cloth used and begun back from the rent and the back and forth in running is stitch a slanting line taken until the tear has been closed.— Lesson 33. not have the iron HOT. HAVANCO MENDING TISSUE The best thing for repairing bottoms of skirts and pants. silk goods and place it between the garment and the patch. etc. One For sale piece each of White. On the right side cut out the worn or frayed part and make a small slit in each of the corners and turn down evenly the edges and sew down neatly on both sides of the garment. Lesson 34. a little larger than the hole. directions Re-seating or repairing knees of boys' pants. or that can be mended much better with the Havanco Mending Tissue than with needle and thread. silk garments. and cut it so the weave comes exact with the place to be mended. send post paid upon the receipt 1382 West Ninth Street THE HALL-VAN GORDER COMPANY Page 22 CLEVELAND. If possible have your patch of the same material. OHIO . also mending all kinds of rents in clothing. PATCHING. all and press with a warm flatiron. . dry goods and notion stores. — There are many materials such as rain-proof clothing or kid gloves. place piece of goods like garment under hole. follow above for Garments repaired with Havanco may be washed and ironed but not Heat is the only thing that will affect it. Cut piece of the Havanco tissue the of the piece of lay a paper on cloth over for stockings.. Black and Brown Ten Cents to the by package for .

desired to use an antiseptic or sanative treatment in connection with a douche. convenient. and the force of the stream can be regulated to suit the purpose for which it is used from a drop of water at a time to a pressure of 50 pounds. You can get any desired pressure or flow of water. The operator can use a pint or a gallon without stopping and at any force desired.•> . Cleveland.. IDEAL FAUCET SYRINGE COMPANY 9601 Cedar Avenue. sanitary. economical. as there is no limit as to the supply of water.. if necessary. Can be used for everything a fountain syringe is used for.. the overhand patch put on the same as the is Lesson 34). whereas with the Ideal Faucet Syringe you can obtain any desired force. so long found inefficient and unsatisfactory.: Lesson 35. will use the lawn hose with such force as to drive everything before it. With this Ideal Faucet Syringe you can get the same results. always ready. y\ '. the goods are heavy and not It is often washed. except that the patch to a overhanded on the and the underside neatly cut down good seam and pressed. A lady. which is controlled by a valve. screw on cap and attach to end of rubber tube before putting on the spray and then screw on the vaginal pipe and the whole stream of water is medicated with the medicine. Ohio Page 23 . no cumbersome water bags to get out of order. a which has and when sponge in it.— Where may be used. clumsy fountain syringe. — The Ideal Patent Cup Attachment. It is entirely unlike the old style. perfect and effective syringe ever made. Ackerman's Patent Ideal Faucet Syringe and Bath Spray The most wonderful improvement ever made j-i i !<v .— OVERHAND ordinary patch right side (see PATCH. all that is required is to it is drop your medicine onto this Sponge in the cup. in a syringe.. in washing off dirt from the porch. while the ordinary fountain syringe has not enough force to it to dislodge germs. will last a life time.-. It is the most simple.

Fold over the top edge. your bias bands two and one-half times the width desired. — Piping is made of bias strips folded in the center. such as binding or overhanding the raw edges. the bias strip to emerge. — — Cent. 41. piping. —PIPING. or back stitch or the edge when of material that does not fray can be left raw or pinked. or by making the felled or French seams. Hold the cord so cannot become twisted and place the exact center of the fold.—A true the material with the straight edge of the top lengthwise fold exactly. On heavy goods that do not ravel or fray out to press back the edge of the seam. and are width and join the diagonal bias is Lesson 37. DOUBLE FOLD. — — Lesson 38.— Cut Lesson and basted N. and is an easy manner of disposing of the tailored seams. and silk thread should always be used to join the seams of a garment made of wool goods. 0. but the stitching must be very straight and very even. chain running stitch. Baste and sew on either by machine or by hand.— MILLINER'S FOLD. Lesson 42. — an exactly even depth under the fold. Trim the under edge narrower than the outer. FELLED SEAM. Lesson 40. Sew up the seam in any of the ordinary ways described in the preceding lesson. or they may be protected in various manners. and then turn under the edges of the fold and stitch with one or two rows of stitching. and stitch on either side gives a very good finish. Lesson — — stitch.B. 39.— Cut it the bias strips twice in as wide as desired. obtained by folding on the selvedge or straight Folds and bands are used very neat trimming. When the fold is lined.— BANDS AND FOLDS. 4679 K Tables fnr Ladies DRINK Griffiths Restaurant 1022-1028 Prospect Avenue SENORA Always the Same CLEVELAND. and cutting diagonally. as they make a Cut your bias strips the desired easily made. the canvas is basted in and the edges of the fold fastened down with the catch stitch. & N. Good Try Our Home-like Baking QUALITY HAS BEEN OUR SUCCESS COFFEE Page 24 . With a narrow turning fold the broad edge over the narrow edge of the seam and hem either by hand or on machine. which is beautifully made at and ready for use. SEAMS.Lesson 36. — CORDING. ends. Take your bias band twice the desired width and fold so the edges come exactly together. turn down the fold and sew neatly just below the cord. make a narrow turn up of the bottom edge and bring it up to cover the edge turned down. Seams can be joined by machine stitching. considerably on tailored suits. Ask your dealer for the W. Great care must be taken that the stitches are not too fine on tailored seams. allowing only the edge of The piping may be lined or unlined.

binding.—THE FRENCH SEAM. Lesson 48. binding turns itself so all you need to do is to fasten the binding on by hand or sew it down with machine. and cut out the underlying corners. overcast using the damask hem. being careful the stitches do not show through on the right side. STRAP SEAM. Stitch near the edge of the upper lap and again one-half inch back. Lesson —DAMASK at HEM. turn garment and sew on wrong side taking seam of depth to entirely inclose the first seam. turn under exactly as for an ordinary hem. Catch the overlap of the corners of the hem to the underlap.) side of Page 25 . 50. linen or cotton. Baste down then hem with slant stitch (see Lesson S). Cut either bias or crosswise strips and turn under both edges and stitch over a plain seam.— The proper material for binding the edges of seams is bias bands of silk. leaving just room enough to catch the stitches nicely. A lap seam is as its name implies one seam lapping over another.— Sew the seam by machine. — Is used for setting in insertion. when hemming can be done on the machine as it saves the measuring and basting. Lesson 44. or running stitch on the right side of the garment. — Table It is linen can be very neatly hemmed by hem. Then cut a strip of heavy paper or notch a piece of card board the exact depth you desire your hem and use this paper or card board for a marker. Hems are made by turning the edge of the material twice in any suitable depth and the fold fastened down with the slant stitch or by hemstitching or in some instances the plain running stitch.— To hem square corners. and cut the material in the fold and hem — — HEM the bias edges. The edges of the goods to be bound should be evenly trimmed and the binding basted on the edges. (See Lesson 5. very simple. or hemstitch (see Lesson 17). HEM. and overhand the end. Trim evenly and narrowly. LAPPED SEAM. When finished take a moderately hot iron and press down wrong the hem on 51. or W. This is one of the simplest manners in which to dispose — — — — — — of a tailored seam. HEMMING. -Make a plain seam leaving one edge wide and one edge narrow. & N. & N. of Turn fold as of for an ordinary Fold back the linen the crease the first the hem and with very fine stitches. For the ordinary hem begin by making a narrow turning. Lesson 45.— TO CORNERS. while in others a hem is joined to a lace or embroidery insertion by what is called a roll hem. WELT SEAM. Lesson 47. Lesson 49. Lesson 46. Much time is saved however. yet deep enough so the turning includes all the edges. The W. for your hem must be turned exactly even. or after turning the edges for the hem fold toward the center.— THE BOUND SEAM. Lesson — ROLLED the right side. Turn back the wide fold and baste down the narrow edge and stitch with one or two rows of stitching.BELLE VERNON MILK the Best Milk Lesson 43. Hold goods toward you and turn neatly and begin at the right and sew insertion and material together with the slant stitch.

Dressing Sacques. PL E ATI N G Accordeon Pleating and Side Pleating made in the newest effects for Party Costumes. bias tape is most useful in innumerable instances. Facing of lace or embroidery around the neck or arm hole of sleeves is sometimes put on the right side making a trimming or finish. can be done as successfully on the sewing machine as by hand and very much quicker. Use a bias band. only you must always baste down your pleats. tucks by hand you must make a marker and fold exactly on the line and — — sew down carefully by machine or with running stitch. — Ruffles may be made of straight or bias goods. embroidery. Where lace or embroidery must be joined in tucks sew the cloth so the seam will come in the fold of and under the tuck. chiffon or any of If the ruffle is to be sheer materials. Turn and sew down either with machine or with slant stitch. made of goods without a finished edge edge must be neatly hemmed the Art Pleating Shop 438 Old Arcade Cleveland Page 26 . Always draw the ends of the threads through to the underside of the garment and tie carefully. Etc.— Divide rather make a 53. House Gowns. Muffs. unless you have a pleating machine of your own. Neckwear. Maternity Dresses. A first class sewing machine is provided with a tucker that can be gauged for any size tuck you desire.— SHIRRING. so it is not necessary But to make to baste in your tucks after a little practice on your machine. side pleating and sunburst pleating must be done but all a pleating establishment. B. or on a seam. In underwear the W.— Is simply from two to as many rows of gatherOn most materials it ing as desired. lay a damp cloth over them and press so they will keep their fold nicely. And many styles of Pleat ings for Trimmings of Dresses. a piece of goods cut either across or down the weave of the goods will do. Etc. In this instance the edge of the embroidery or lace must be heavy enough to entirely cover the edge of the material of the garment. either N. Lesson — — straight — Lesson 54. 52.— RUFFLES. Place the right side of the facing against the right side of the goods and sew firmly with machine or by running stitch. or the work will not look neat. & N. Dancing Frocks. Lesson 56. lace. TUCKS. Pleats are made the same as tucks. FACINGS. Embroidery or lace may be used for facing on some articles by following the suggestion of cut which is done in the same way as the ordinary facing. tape. Hats. your goods into two or four even knot and use the simple running stitch. Lesson — GATHERING.spaces. Waists. The White Sewing Machine is provided with a tucker with which you can easily both regulate your tucks and the space between the tucks. accordion pleating. at Lesson 55. Street Dresses. embroidery. Fancy Waists. then heavy draw goods on gathering string into exact position desired. Children's Dresses.

The White Sewing Machine has an attachment wherewith the hemming is done and the lace or embroidery sewed on with one operation. For sale at all first-class druggists. ZOA-PHORA STOMACH The Scientific AND LIVER PILLS and Effectual Remedy for Biliousness. of insertion. (See Lesson 48). waists. undergarments. gentle cathartic fL-J^y^-* & - RememberZOA-PHORA Stomach and gratifying results. Headache. make a second turning and hem. where an ordinary hook or buttonhole would be placed.— SEWING ON HOOKS AND EYES. snap fasteners or buttons can be used.. When the food is not being properly digested and the Liver refuses to work and the whole system becomes clogged with poison and you need a good. and cannot rust. belts. work a ruffle of lace or embroidery may be put on with the whip stitch (see Lesson 6). PRICE. or with a piece of the W. put the right side of the lace to the right If the machine is to be used put the edge side of the material and overhand. which we recommend for skirts. and stitch on right side. Lesson 57. either by gathering (see Lesson 52). On page 32. They are flat and invisible and never slip open as To sew on. and all Disorders Arising from a Sluggish Liver and Imperfect Digestion. children's garments or any purpose. of the wrong side of the lace or embroidery to the edge of the right side of the hem and stitch. Lesson 58. Liver Pills CO. Liver Pills Stomach have been used for over half a century with most For habitual Constipation and Bowel Trouble use the ZOA-PHORA Anti-Constipation Pills.— If the lace or embroidery is to be put on by hand. MICH. taking pains to catch through the narrow hem on the underside. N. Or the lace or embroidery may be set in by using the roll hem. you will find a cut of the Wilson Dress Hook and Eye. Or again the ruffle may be inserted in the hem by placing the right side of the garment and the ruffle together and turn hem back to In very fine the wrong side of the garment.— SEWING ON LACE OR EMBROIDERY. sew hook so often happens with the ordinary hook and eye. quick. bias tape. 25 CENTS. which is done exactly as overcasting. and if desired an edging may be sewed on either by machine The ruffle is attached to the garment or neatly overhanded (see Lesson 6). See page 96 for partial list. B. where hooks and eyes. The Wilson Dress Hook and Eye is easy to hook and unhook.— Baste the lace or embroidery on the right side in the exact position desired. dresses. ZOA-FHORA KALAMAZOO.Moth 71. turn hollow side (see — Page 27 . Props. & N. Cut out goods Carefully baste down hem over edge leaving enough only for a narrow hem. Lesson 59. or the ruffle may be sewed on the right side and covered with a bias band. to the necessary fullness and by placing the right side of the material and ruffle together and sewing firmly. Lesson 48).— SETTING IN LACE OR EMBROIDERY..

uji 100 200 Names for $1. Lesson 61. and sew the eye where an ordinary eye or button would have been placed. navy.- Printed from Engraved Black on fine Tape: WOMANKIND no medicine will. prevents loss by laundries and hotels. is This or the Reis fully embroidered articles..sewn to an i Sm Phora won't do for garment. very quickly and easily done. Men's shirts should be marked with an embroidered initial just above Linen. Broadway and Bleecker ®*s NEW VCKK o^v/rv. The Warren Feather Bone for stays or collar supports can be stitched by machine into the lining of the article to be boned. in fact all laundered garments should be marked with the name or at least the initial of the member of the family to whom the article belongs.25 IV arr-. but a more attractive way is to use the catch stitch (see Lesson 11). aprons and children's clothes. woven initials made on woven tape which can be neatly overcasted on the inside of the garment. Lesson 60.toward the cloth and the straight edge toward edge of cloth. G. many prefer to use the feather stitch (see Lesson 18). ami will identify you in case of REIS' NAMES come in si jj. REIS & BRO.. lingerie and handkerchiefs beautifully monogrammed or with carecuff. $2. by procuring the Reis woven names. which gives the inside of the boned' article a very pretty finish. They never wear out.00 for 144 $1. Every garment and piece of linen in your home should be marked.— MARKING OF LINEN UNDERWEAR. s accident. light hlue Mark and can he had in several . for they are perfect and durable and will stand the boiling and ironing of the laundry without being damaged in the least. fleeze lined and woolen underwear.25 for 72 Names Names Plate-. the hosiery. ami are easily cut apart anil . What MARK YOUR GARMENTS WITH REIS' WOVEN NAMES Vonr garments should hear your name.75 If your dry p><<ds store cannot take youi orders send youi order with remittance direct to us. initials plainest form the distinctive mark which The Reis foundation washable letters lends dignity to the or the Reis initial medallions should always be used. You can get these letters or monograms in nearly any shade or style and all you need to do is to baste them on your fabrics and work over them with your embroidery cotton or silk. as well as in the simplest. However. REIS' WOVEN NAMES are machine woven <>n good quality white "a m hi ic tape in either red. The stitch used is simply sewing over and over through the small round holes of the hook and eye. in a REIS' ENGRAVED NAMES t'anilin. The gauze. besides being a substantial stitch to hold the boning secure.es for $1. St.i different style letters. as are the ordinary hook and fastener. in the most elaborate gowns.— PUTTING IN STAYS AND COLLAR SUPPORTS. It saves annoyance. JL22Z Pa ere 28 .

m. m. G ReiS & BrOS. but all of the stitches ordinarily used will be found in this series stamping and making the garment. On nearly all smart garments from the marquisettes and sheer chiffon and silks and dainty lawns to the heavier materials and all wash goods you will find at least a suggestion ranging from the pretty French knots and the simple outline and chain stitch following the simplest of patterns to the most intricate. work a. Lesson 62. We also make buttons of your own material. lavender and black. dresses or wash suits which meets the refined feminine approval more than embroidery designs. 630 Broadway. Embroidery Send or bring us that piece of Embroidery that you do not know how or have not the time to trouble to do. Served from 11 25 Cents to 2 p. (Braiding and Embroidering) Cleveland. green. St. Y. Ohio . in all styles. beautiful and elaborate creations. Reis' Initials elimate all this work. and ^-* R "IS • it 9 EMBROIDERED SHIRT INITIALS is West Third St. However should you prefer to have the embroidery done by more experienced fingers than your own or have not the time to devote on that part of the decoration of waist or gown you will do well to take it to your local embroiderer where the work will be done by trained hands who make a specialty of lessons together with full directions for of embroidering. pajamas. requires artistic ability and much to make an attractive design. navy. The designs and stitches used will depend entirely upon the taste of the individual and the style and texture of the garment.— EMBROIDERY DESIGNS. CJA11 you have to do is stick them on and work over with silk or cotton. white. There is no trimming or ornamentation for waists. Price.The Hawley Cor. etc. ii red. 10c. each or 3 for 25c. N. embroidered initials are very beautiful. Joseph Korach Both Phones 1258 Page 29 & Company W. but pretty AVERYon the fad to have the Hand Regular Dinner.. 4th St. Our experienced embroiderers can work out in perfect effects any design you may choose for any purpose Either machine cr hand work. Clair Ave. (CLEVELAND Sixth City initial sleeve or pocket of shirts.

DO DON'T DO WHAT Vibrator.) 36. and ? learn how much easier. Botti WHITE SEWINGNo. (See page 18— Trimmings.) 39. Chalk — Skirt Marker. reliable and reputable make can be purchased. or where a line of tucks or trimming is desired. Before beginning the making of a garment. 11 Wheel (A) 40 and 41. (See page 19— Dress Shields. (Silk. The articles usually required are: 1 2 —Cutting Scissors — Button Hole Scissors Stick 3— Yard 4 — — — 8— 9— Pins 10 — Tailor's —Tracing 5 —Tape 6 7 Line Needles Thread. MACHINE Avenue Phones CHAPTER XI. see page 31D). Rotary Shuttle IX! We and "Sit-Strate" Machines.) 41.) 37. — Hooks and Eyes — Patterns 15 — Linings. On the other hand do not attempt to use a coarse thread in a fine needle or a fine thread in a large needle. NECESSARY SEWING ACCESSORIES. but and a large spool of white basting thread and a spool of colored basting thread to use where it is not expedient to mark with a pencil or tailor's chalk. A modern machine is supplied with attachments that will hem. (See pages 12 13 14 34. (See page 20— Boning. Your machine must be kept perfectly clean and well oiled and by keeping the tension adjusted just right you will not need to give it much further attention. the thread should just pass easily through the eye of the needle. hemstitch and in fact do nearly everything that the human fingers can do in this line and a wise woman will keep her attachments always on hand and use them whenever possible for they will save her hours of useless labor. see that you have the necessary accessories at hand with which to do your work.Buy a Sewing Machine before you see the WHITE. cheaply made machine when for the same money or a few dollars more a first class. with ordinary care will last a lifetime so the greatest of caution should be used in selecting one. (See page 16— Stiffenings 17 — Tape. 426 ProspectCO. A good sewing machine (B) THREADS.) SEIWNG MACHINE. better and quicker it will do your sewing. shall be glad to show it up and let it speak for itself. provide yourself with a variety of sizes of cotton spool thread Be sure and Page 30 . (Cotton) Thread. gather.) 38. It is always a bad investment to buy an inferior. (Basting) Thread. quilt. made in One is of the greatest mistakes is sewing is the use of a needle that too large and thread that too coarse. (See page 21 — Dress Forms.

they are always unsatisfactory and a garment not properly is — Page 31 . Pure costs One of the (D) most important SEWING THREAD. and It may will always retain its original shape. whereas a cotton or linen thread has no "give" or "stretch". Embroidery silk will give that rich. a seam sewed with silk is infinitely stronger. if the thread is not of the Silk thread is particularly adapted for seam making.DON'T GUESS you as a Sewing Machine user of the White Tension Indicator but see it for yourself. not be generally known that silk is the strongest fiber known to mankind. is The kind of embroidery material all important. is made from your dealer does not carry "Belding's. WHITE SEWING MACHINE BOTH PHONES (C) 426 CO. lustrous and beautiful effect that cannot be obtained with any of the imitations or substitutes. no greater extravagence than to invest in a cheap worthless eye. elasticity and fast color. PROSPECT AVENUE EMBROIDERY THREAD. and yet the results will be disappointing. Be sure to drop in and see it at first opportunity. If us. will give to a stress. smooth and elastic. on acproper texture. and so available only for White at the value to buyers. 528 Broadway NEW YORK There hook and (E) HOOKS AND EYES. consequently. It's exclusively White. requisites in dressmaking is the thread used in sewing the seams. and while embroidery silk more than cotton or any of the other substitutes. cloth. etc. the results to be obained will more than justify the difference in expense. and made in every conceivable color and shade. then you'll need the WHITE. trimmings. count of its great strength. and that a yard of pure silk thread will stretch from two to three inches. and so if you are progressive and desire to do your sewing under the most advantageous conditions. & CO. BELDING'S SEWING SILK the finest quality of raw silk.. Great care may be used in selecting styles. and we will BELDING BROS. silk will wash and wear without fading. is strong." write tell you where you can get it. With it you can do work that can't possibly be done on any other machine.

free. lation to They are truly a reve- on Dress. Ohio hooks are sewn. 10c a My Name Street Ask for Wilson Dress-hooks on all ready-to-wear . neatly closed and perfectly flat if you use these un ique hooks Though you can unhook them with per. Name J. . — Black. 10c several garments.N. E.omng. snap fasteners or buttons.ClairAve. "Thank you.State. card Wilson Dress-hooks.E.kooks FuBI-Size Card Sent V.ig not go through the is laundry without pieces. Can not catch on trimmings. Gray.. best thing to do to make sure that This Embarrassment Can Never Come to You if You Use the hooks that can't "pop" open accidentally or allow the dress to gape and spread.** 198 St. Black and White colors. Cleveland.. fect ease. its Many to of the common The brands of hooks and eyes will rust and leave marks on your garment. while others L-oi.. So flat . — will fastened is ruined. O. No matter how loose or tight your garment. oard of one dozen. the back is always smooth. 1 My er's Deal- Ave. Clair * y* ^* Town . Outwear Tlense send.'ilson i pppp H E» d Fill Out This Coupon . upstairs and I'll run fix it.. They are Wilson Dress-hooks. Always Dress-hook Co.. out beyond the edse and show. garments Address J The Wilson Dress-hook Company 198 St. J His Address. and eyes. Page 32 . N. White) previous sample Sold at notion counters everywhere (remember the orange and black card) Large and Small sizes.* invisible they never pull they do not leave the usual "bunch" which tells where other yf' Cleveland. provided you have not previously had a free card Dress-hooks are guaranteed not to rust or crush in washing The Wilson and . making them invaluable on wash garments." women accustomed to troublesome hook-.

silks in large and dress things. the quality of thread. because we make a specialty of all the little the linings and findings. Page 33 . place. is at hand.— you have a brand that in will not rust and that will positively hold your garment recommend and use in our demonstrations the Wilson Dress Hook and Eye. but the finish of lining. Co. and always and pleasing assortments. Shoulder Forms and Bust Forms The Ladies' Home Journal Patterns Reis Bros. to the style book and pat- We mention: Conovers' Naiad Dress Shields Warren 's Featherbone Wilson's Hooks and Eyes £5? Embroidery Foundations Coat Fronts. realize the These women Each season fabrics finds here the newest of cloths. Coat Pads. importance of the little things not only the quality and style of fabrics. shields and dozen other seemingly trifling details. We Specialists in Dressmakers'' Supplies '"THE BEST DRESSED and making of their WOMEN are most often those who take the keenest interest and pleasure in the small details clothes. Every convenience tern. all the best of such are here.. which we find is always reliable and satisfactory and costs no more than any other good fastener. the kind of hook and eyes. And.

It is naturally the most beautiful of all fabrics for lining purposes. cloak or garment. select silk linings that will By procuring reliable. some of the most reliable silk manufacturers are weaving their names in the selvage of the lining as a guarantee of wear. you are assured of a If your garment does not require a or satin lining. Belding's Pure silk Dye Guaranteed Satin. satisfactory lining for your suit. very difficult. & CO. No fabric will wear as well as a pure dye silk fabric. as is in the exterior.Belding's Pure name on the selvage. for the average person to wear well. Dye Guaranteed Satin the every yard guaranteed to give satisfactory wear. effect in the lining of a coat (F) It is just as essential to it have a satisfying Silk is or jacket. In order to overcome this difficulty. on account of the practice of adulteration or weighting. you should take into consideration the HEXTER'S LINING STORE Dress Makers' Supplies and 1 Tailors' Trimmings " "Everything for your Dress but the Goods 153-155 Arcade : : Euclid Avenue Entrance Page 34 . however. Look for and accept no substitute. 528 Broadway NEW YORK CITY LININGS. BELDING BROS.

where a fitted lining is not desired the Grean Invisible Net Foundations will be most valuable to you. boned. This & 51 - 00 name Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Company. Page 35 . Every person should buy one of grey percaline fitted to herself. for if you do so you will take every chance of making a complete misfit of your garment. according to sty!e. Unless you are an experienced designer. With every Pictorial Review Pattern you will find a Cutting Guide show- ing exactly how to lay on your goods to the best advantage and how to guard against making any mistakes in cutting. Always get your pattern before buying your goods if possible. write us today ana we will supply you direct or give you of a reliable dealer who handles our line. finish it. or professional have to suffer before they attain the result which you obtain in a ready made Grean Fitted Waist Lining. for often you can save a yard or so of goods or save yourself from running short of material. boning. this affords easy ripping if a fitting is necessary and all the fitting is done at the upper part of the waist in all instances. the seams are very loosely stitched. If you are lining a waist that needs a fitted lining. There is also a Construction Guide. but you may rest assured that the new. quality and texture of your material and go to a reliable lining store. which dressmakers at home. but above the boned portions and on the shoulders. New York weight. as it eliminates the endless preliminary fittings. putting on hooks and eyes and finishing. you will find it easy to cut and fit and make any garment you may desire. To all those who have not tried them it seems impossible. and in white and black Corsica silk. Bloating. cutter and fitter never attempt to make even the plainest garment without a pattern. /A / \ ± ±J. fitting. They are all finished. asking them to show you their newest and most appropriate linings for the purpose which you desire. have hooks and eyes in the back or front. 25 cents per box y (^ jTV " pTTfvn l\. white and grey percaline. or if it is a light weight waist. by knowing exactly the — required amount to make the article in question. Always select a pattern exactly your own size don't get one a size too large or a size too small. Pain or Distressed Feeling in the Stomach. Sour Risings.FITTED WAIST LININGS is considered one of the most important inventions of the present time. and have it stuffed up for the purposes of having her own figure for fitting 75c and draping in the workroom. but simple principle which is embodied in the Grean Waist Linings. The cost of a pattern is so small and the help they give so great that you cannot afford to take chances of wasting your goods without a pattern to guide you.. the If your dealer cannot supply you. Nausea. (G) PATTERNS. 327-329 East 34th St. which is ready for use without having the trouble of cutting. Belching of Gas. so with this Manual of Sewing and Dress Making and a Pictorial Review Pattern. Heartburn. \J XV A Digestive Tablets See ?oT 96 special offer For Indigestion. illustrating precisely how to put the garment together. Dyspepsia. and all Disagreeable Symptoms arising from a Disordered Stomach. and you will need to be informed as to the best. as new linings are constantly coming into fashion. Be careful and purchase the exact size or exactly what your measure is around the waist and you will have a good fitting lining. They are made in linolawnblack. much time can be saved by using the Grean Fitted Lining. overcomes all obstacles.

while on your skirts your seam must be bound. Silk. for the binding around the neck and armholes and many other purposes." Bias Seam Tape Are you taking advantage of its Cambric and Lawn. Dept. finishing or It will binding seams on all materials and for fagotting. Wright 40 Lispenard St. NEW YORK. For the waist you will need it in many instances.? White and (*4 colors. & N. E.. showing colors.— (H) It is TAPE. wide). Wm. for the support for the hooks and eyes. Sample reference book free. Made "W. & Sons Co. almost impossible to make any article of wearing apparel without tape. F. to }A in. a necessity in the home sewing room. and for this BIASSEAHTAPt It turns itself "W. &N. TRADE MARK REGISTERED Once used Always used Beware of Imitations AT ALL DEALERS A is very useful article for piping. also in India Linon. not shrink." Bias Seam Tape INDISPENSABLE IN THE SEWING ROOM Saves half the work making a garment. i in highest grade n - to 1 in. widths and quality of materials. Page 36 .. 13 widths Pure Linen and wide) usefulness. 4 widths (5-16 in. Mf rs .

Narrow Bias Seam Tape means an additional wear of many months.— purpose no tape answers so well as the W. And then too. stores or sample pair on receipt of 25 Tl 1 he f* T* /"* t. Bias Seam Tape. At the cents. you will find that a support of the W. there is an odor from the rubber of the cheaper shields that is very offensive to a refined woman. (I) DRESS SHIELDS. On your underwear you will need it to bind over your embroidery ruffles. which is ready for use and turns itself so the edge is always neat and even. instead of facing. of from perspiration be sure and select a cheaper shields on the market today are anything but satisfactory and the ruined waists showing the stains just below the shields are a result of their use.N. tOnOVer LO. We use in our demonstrations and always recommend the Naiad Dress Shield. & N. you will see this tape neatly put on with the tiniest of slant stitch making a support just below the scallop of the embroidered edge and you will find it most satisfactory to follow their example.. 101 Franklin St.. protecting your garments shield reliable When dress — so many the The Crowning Attribute of Lovely Woman is Cleanliness NAIAD DRESS SHIELD SUPREME Beauty ! IN Quality ! Cleanliness ! POSSESSES two important and exclusive features. and when you have an embroidered edge to your garment as seen in Lesson 79. f* Manufacturers. Added to these the fact that an unreliable shield will not wash and cannot be kept sanitary makes it imperative to procure a good reputable shield that can be relied upon to protect your gown or jacket. & N.I!. On the Parisian lingerie.Y. which nothing in the world of the kind can rival in daintiness and beauty. It does not deteriorate with age and fall to powder in the dress can be easily and quickly sterilized by immersing Guarantee with Every Pair in boiling water for a few seconds only. Page 37 .

first it makers and subject of boning can be quickly disposed of. collar-foundations. insist and leaded dress weights that they are u -ip^M&tt" YtMendif£u Three Oaks. as best known and most reputable boning on the market. girdles collar-sets. The class dress- is by far the (The Perfect Boning) for Waists. for all tailors use only the Warren Feather Boning. Linings. giving permanent shape To bone a waist Send for requires less than 10 minutes our Instruction Booklet with attachment for machine FREE When buying waist-bones. Girdles and Collars because Stitching bone in on by machine holds the place. collar-bones. Michigan Page 38 .(J) BONING.

It is the practical invention of a woman and consists of a nonleakable air chamber made of specially prepared m and well covered rubber cloth. but to save yourself the time and the tediousness of trying on your gowns. Pneumatic Form Company J. serves for any number of persons by simply changing the waist lining. bust and hips with looking glass — — fidelity. Pneu Form is mounted on an adjustable standard rod which may be raised or lowered to the exact height desired.. jjBK fitting and holds draping it all Page 39 . reproduce your form. nothing can possibly take the place of Pneu Form. not only as a means to secure correct and perfect lines and insure a well fitting garment. One Pneu Form. If you are ^eiiftxriii It's You The Wonderful Pneumatic Dress Form Sold In Many First Class Stores Pneu Form is the easiest and handiest dress form the world to manipulate. containing full description and prices. skirt and dress making and fitting or for dress repairing at home." Edition H-I. and enables you to study your own form while you work upon your own garments. To make Pneu Form perfectly. It relieves you of tiresome standing hour after hour for fittings.6th St. you do your own dressmaking or have it done at your home you should by all means provide yourself with a Dress Form. near NEW YORK Nothing so good for skirt And base this little box tlwi S».(K) If DRESS FORMS. Write today for new illustrated booklet' "It's You. you simply inflate it inside your fitted waist lining and before you stands YOU shoulders. For waist. 557 Fifth Ave.

main floor.50. etc. and get the benefit of Notion Dept. Correct model bust and dress forms at $1. conforming to any size or shape desired.e sewing room as the Sewing Machine.00 and $15. simply and durably made. these economical prices. With a dress form which reproduces your own lines perfectly you will be able to get a better fitting garment than if it was tried on yourself. $2. Pictorial Review Pattcis 10c & 15c Main EAGLE STAMPS FREE with Every Purchase Floor Euclid Page 40 . waist. tiresome fittings you change position so often that you are liable to change your lines.50.00. $8. hips. and YOUR VERY IMAGE in lines and proportions can be reproduced with a Hall-Borchert and Majestic GUARANTEED Perfect Fitting Dress — Form — Every style included Adjustable and Non-Adjustable— of which we show a large variety for every purpose and figure. Shears and Tape Measure. saves time and annoyance and its cost — many times over.00.50. Hall-Borchert's complete correct Model Adjustable Form is in every way up to date.00. Skirt can be adjusted to any style and can be raised or lowered to any desired skirt length.00. and the fit of your garment is of far more importance than the quality of the material. stands without tiring. If you sew. Dress forms are now considered just as necessary just as indispensable to equipment of t .making your own gowns there is no way without assistance that you can fit yourself without a Dress Form. $10. $5.. for during the tedious. Euclid. $1.00.. a Dress Form of proper size and shape to aid you the form is always ready. and will last a lifetime. have a dress form by all means buy it at The May Co. $12. $3. can be adjusted at neck. — — t^ —of trying to see dress fits in the how your back or how —effectively by the use of the skirt hangs with the aid of a looking glass need no longer trouble you if you have a Dress Form of your exact figure.

but take a sample of your goods and go to a first-class dress trimming establishment and ask to be shown suitable trimmings for your goods and often you will find something new and attractive that in the ordinary way would have escaped your atten- The plainest. and which is impossible to get when you fit yourself We show two of the most reliable reputable without one of these forms. suitable and desirable effect can be obtained. form. When you have a gown or suit that needs trimming. A person with a dull. One can always procure such a variety of silks. Dress Forms made and your dealer will gladly demonstrate them to you. their All first-class dressmakers desirous of saving their customers' time. tion entirely. whose beauty depend so much upon the graceful lines. the fitted in the old. are supplied with a dress today has neither the time or the patience to be manner. tedious woman (L) DRESS TRIMMINGS. braids. if only a dash of it. bands and special trimmings. You should secure a Dress Form before attempting to make any of the up-to-date gowns. for and own as well. do not go to the first store you happen to pass and take anything that may be presented to you. that a harmonious. 1 COVERED tooR DE R ^ ^ of Second Door East Opera House Page 41 .the entire fit of your gown be of ruined. should usually be chosen. Cleveland Dress Trimming Company ^ V^ 4 6 Euclid Ave. laces. most inexpensive gown can be made attractive with well selected trimming. colorless complexion must always study the trimmings and adornment of their costume and some bright color.

that you do not opening of the plackets. Page 42 7— In . F. same general instructions over seeking information and also taking SENSIBLE PLACES TO LUNCH EUCLID CAFETIERE 328 Euclid Ave. 6 We most highly recommend the notch at the right place on — See that the placket comes to the exact your making a placket. The following rules must be observed. confusing the one who is up valuable space with unnecessary repetitions. unless perhaps.CHAPTER VII. The bottom of the placket must be made secure on the under side. Stretching these edges means always a full baggy look. to get 2 — Cut easily into it on.— PLACKETS. Your skirt will never fit smoothly across the back of the hips if you do. just far enough the garment. Luncheon 11 to 2 NEW CENTER LUNCH CLUB 813 Prospect Ave. (Lesson the eyes sewed on the under facing and the hooks on the facing of the 53). reference will be made to the specific lesson treating of that particular subject instead of repeating the and over again. upper fold. The mark which reveals the inexperienced or careless sewer is more quickly and more likely to be seen in the finish of the placket than in any other part of your garment. careful that every stitch that shows through on the right side be positive 5 and even. or in trying of the stretch the edges 4 — Be —Use belt. it be in the making of the buttonholes. C. 3 — Be careful in picking up your skirt. your placket binding exactly after your pattern. your placket opening down exactly the right length. both edges of the opening must be faced. 1 — Cut lessly. only the best of hooks and eyes. Kirby Building MAIN 1565 No Waiters O'Brien Building MAIN 3914 Lesson 63. SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS In the following lessons we teach you the right way of making each part of a garment and in the succeeding lessons whenever that portion of the article is to be made. Wilson Hook and Eye. P. Home Cooking No Waiting Prices Reasonable M. Don't have it too long nor yet so short an opening that you immediately tear open the placket. Do not do it carebut see that your pattern is laid on correctly and pinned securely and that you cut accordingly.

Skirts and dresses at present are made with high belt. 2 With bones ejecting above the belting. Cleveland. 2j^ inches wide and fitted by gusset seams and boned Lesson BELTS AND BANDS. — — — effect. A trial will convince you of its merits. 3 With boning above and below the belting to form a pointed bodice into shape. Ohio Lesson 65. If the belt or band is faced sew the straight strip and the facing together and proceed the same as directed above.'V K I XI -r Safe Reliable Effective The Wonderful Cleansing. Turn the top of the folded edge toward the garment and stitch.— BELTS AND BANDS. especially as wide belting shrinks from one to three inches to the ward.A.band may be of one piece be of one piece lined or faced. for ordinary belting. For this purpose wide belting is used. for the draping of waists. For sale by all upon leading druggists or mailed to you receipt of 50 cents. have improved this method by offering a seamless shaped belt thoroughly shrunk.— YOKE AND PEPLUMS— A yoke is a very particular part of a garment to make. If desired the belt or band can then be entirely stitched around. A peplum is used instead of a belt or band or draw string to hold down at the waist and Page 43 . 64. Turn over the under edge and hem down to cover the seam on the inside of the garment. The object of the bone above the belt is especially useful to unlined or loose linings as some of the material can be draped or attached to boning. which is a feature not to be overlooked in wash dresses. For the Use of Careful Refined Women A A K^ C* A\ T\T l\ T"} ^ AA. You can get the Grean Belt in three distinct styles: 1 Having bones as wide as the belting. No Married Lady Should Be Without This Wonderful Antiseptic SANAR REMEDY 746 Euclid Avenue CO. but a peplum is much easier especially to fit. If double. the Grean Co.^. Healing and Soothing Antiseptic Ever Used for a Douche for Practically All Female Weakness Sanar can be used without fear of injuring the* most delicate or affected tissues as it does not smart or burn and is highly recommended by many of the most eminent physicians in this country.— The belt or doubled or may However.^XA. cut a straight piece double the width desired.

of the fashionable waists of today the is However. Rugs. West 25th. For the seams.keep in in proper position the gathers of the corset cover or waist. tight or will Care must be taken that the peplum not made too draw up and wrinkle. Ready-to-Wear. fitting of the peplum all adjustments must be made at the joining is You should be it sure the pattern exactly the right is size about the waist before using. COMF>AMY "Where things are as represented" A GREAT STORE ALWAYS BUSY Prices Always as 5"flK3 Low or Lower Than Elsewhere Dry Goods. Opposite New Market Page 44 Etc. across the chest in wrinkles let is too tight if or draws out from under the arm and too loose in the neck and across the chest take up the under the arms. Cut out (Lesson Baste up. Sew up seams If If either by machine or by hand (Lesson 41). yoke — attach collar (Lesson 66 or 68). fit and alter (Lesson 77). All alterations for the neck seam both on the shoulders and must be made from the shoulder seams only. style many the peplum waist. is a part of the of garment and worn outside of the In is such not instances the in peplum must be exceptionally well any and all fitted or the good. peplum — gather the waist or corset cover if it at the yaist line and put on exactly as were a skirt you were attaching. effect fitted. be entirely done from the shoulder seams If it The fitting of the yoke must and the small space of the under arm seams. . but cases a yoke must be most carefully 76).

. in collar supports (Lesson 60). 4 5 6 — Sew —Sew —Sew on all trimmings and ornaments. Grean for those who find it difficult to shape an<^ ma ke the under-collar. . taking care the stitches do not show through. It is not necessary any more to make collars of cloth to match on the ' . Sew around the bottom edge and the sides and turn right side out. W"-"^ made \ \ so. Press very carefully. Large stitches and an uneven turn of the material of the collar would ruin the appearance of the most beautiful suit. 8. for the canvas cannot be sewed in the seam with the lining without making it a little bunglesome. 9. designed by Mr. \f'i 1 / . 5. You will find Orean Tailor Made Coat Collars beautifully shaped and pressed. * -. stitch.— HIGH entire COLLARS. Catch the edges of the canvas to the cloth with the catch stitch (see Lesson 11). 3. so the canvas will keep . unless you are experienced in tailoring. Press again. 10. 6. Collars" a regular //-^^\ A /i'/""" /A *J'f r'/x'f /'. write us. 4. sufficient 1 in collar to hide lining. The tailored collars are rather difficult to is make 1. which if is 3 necessary for the material which you are using. being careful to keep the goods and the canvas and the lining always perfectly smooth. taking great pains that your stitches do not show any more than you can help and that you have entirely covered the seam of the underpart of the collar and that you have kept an even line.— Cut out (Lesson 76). i underpart. "Tailor /ff. but if you wish to try to them yourself the following instructions should be followed: make Cut out exactly after pattern. on hooks and eyes (Lesson 59). Sew on trimming. in the A it perfect cut of tailored collars is shown above figure.--V/ • '. so best to buy the under collars ready made. . Accept no imitations or substitutes.'/] .-JJ^C? Made Coat -^i ^hia is .in its proper place.' . Attach lining of collar to right side of garment and sew down by machine. Baste in soft pliable French canvas after you have carefully shrunk it. 7.' ' \ vl | e_ 13C Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Company New York 327-329 East 34th Street. 2. turning under the edge and carefully overcast (see Lesson 6). Men's coats are never and invariably made in ' \ i \\ \ \ \ i /' ' ' ' 1 ' either black or grey cloth. Tailor-Notch < . We will supply you direct or through a reliable dealer and send you a catalogue of other dressmaking helps.— TAILORED COLLARS. 2—Turn seams around lining should be of cambric — Hem down with slant - Lesson 66. Lay right side of goods to right side of lining and baste. If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealer's.' v/m "-- / ' ' '\ \ * Collar. Then bring the outside material of collar neatly and smoothly down. Lesson 67.' /'-'<> /jVA/ < 'C-'/y /. / / ' . cutting it out the seam's width from the edges.

as Your character sketch three above stated and any questions scientifically and answered by mail. America. 20). Price $1. and is stitch at outer gar- edge. or the Page 46 .00. softest. 1899 abilities.YOUR CHARACTER SKETCH SCIENTIFICALLY GIVEN By the Expert and Noted Character Readers of the Acme Your perfectly defined College of Science — Incorporated under the laws of Ohio 1907 social Est. capacities. using the fine running stitch slant stitch (Lesson (Lesson 5). perfectly Strictly confidential. 4 — If collar to attach of top to ment turn collar stitch. 6 If collar is to be left separate turn inside edges and neatly stitch or sew down by hand. material. personal The Acme College 1714 of Science its Adams St. 5 right right side side edge of to of garment and —Turn — collar under side of edge of and hem down neatly to cover seam. business.— TURN DOWN 1 COLLARS. Ohio kind in The only incorporated College of Our students and satisfied patrons the United States and Europe.. are found throughout Lesson 68. only If stiffening is necessary use cambric or the finest. Toledo. and domestic qualities and your physical condition correctly diagnosed. 3 — If lined turn right of lining to right of collar. most pliable French canvas and baste it smoothly on the wrong side of the 2 — — Cut out (Lesson 76).

and Sloping. 76). page 51. except the opening of the sleeve where cuff is attached must be faced back. 10 Sew in securely on machine. Straight.PATENTED SHOULDER FORMS Shoulder Forms are used not for disfigured shoulders. 1Take a straight strip of the material. if you will begin to fit by first placing the shoulder form in suchposition as you would like to have your coat appear. — Cut out. on and if Try al- necessary make (Lesson 77).— SHIRT WAIST SLEEVE. 7 Baste together cuff and sleeve and sew in securely on machine. New York Lesson 69. but much of the difficulty is removed if proper care is taken in observing the directions and in- structions and paying strict at- tention to the 1 notches. 3 Sew up seams on machine and press. bottom of 6— Find the 5 1 and 3. High. 8 Gather top of sleeve between exact notches. 327-329 East 34th St. Grean has designed special shoulder forms for different weight of garments from the lightest weight silk and taffeta. as to what to use. or face. ends. where the fullness starts. are basted to canvas and you wA\ save a number of hours of alterations. — — — — — Lesson 70. 4 Hem.— Follow instructions (Lesson 69). in edges of other side. 15c Per Pair Shoulder forms are made in different outlines. They fit is desired. the bottom terations. 9 Attach where notches of waist designate. Page 47 . Many beginners think sleeves are the hardest part of the garment to put together. pliable.— SLEEVES. and Construction Guide. inside the coat. gather sleeve. full- and tack again where the ness being most careful to have the notches come exactly together. (Lesson 53). Some are padded. See Cutting Guide. Mr. Baste to cover seam and sew either by hand or on machine. Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. — — of the sleeve or cuff. and some are not. 2 Baste 3 4 — — —Turn down evenly and sew on machine. (Lesson 48). thin. . lay right side against right side of goods. and fitters must use their judgment. at the notch where the fullness begins in the sleeve and turning the right of the sleeve to the right of the cuff tack to the notch in the cuff — For No. The ordinary lap closing is made the same as the lap pocket. not noticeable. to the heaviest automobile and fur garments. (Lesson 2— Baste up seams. but for garments where a permanent and a good shoulder They add a perfect outline to all shoulders.. page 54.

327-329 E. underlap put right side of strip to right side of sleeve 3 — Turn back and stitch by machine on both sides of strips. CUFF. designed for the purpose of correcting the general hollow parts between the Arm Hole and the Bust. except your cuffs are either are attached at the bottom of the cuffs waist six Lesson 72. and seven are omitted. 2— For 4 and the stitch. requires a little soft foundation. If more of the fullness than COMBINATION This AR1VI PAD all fitters Combination Arm Pad. It is very simple in construction. —The coat sleeve is much simpler as steps exactly according to instructions of Lesson 69. The coat sleeve is made For this purpose the sleeve roll of the Grean Dressmaking Specialties will be found very useful. put damp cloth over and hold down firmly until you have pressed out all the superfluous fullness. CUFFS— PLAIN BAND. but a few suggestions mill make it plain just as 6 how 7 awkward for the to make them. Stitch your goods well over it. are completed before attaching to sleeve. — Cut out exactly after pattern. 2— lined turn right side of lining to right side of goods and stitch sides and bottom of 3 — Turn right side out and stitch again at the very edge of the —Attach as step 6 (Lesson 69). plain The Band Cuffs are put on the same and CUFF— (Shirt They 1 Waist).— LAP CLOSING. If fill and your dealer cannot supply you. and put on edge of pressing board. if the material is soft you can press out the material is hard or harsh. turning the top of strip either with perfectly square corners or in a neat V shape.— — Lesson 71. The 1 lap closing as seen in sleeve No. 3.. The latter is much neater and gives a more tailored finish the top piece of the cuff is sewed into the seam. The cuffs belonging to the sleeves are sometimes a little beginner. write us and we will either your order or direct you to a reliable merchant. except that the top of the flat coat sleeve. New York is c Page 48 . cuff. Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. but instead of facing. is an article used always by that have filling ever tried it. but outside of seam.. the bands are cut double width and turned back and hemmed over the seam which joins cuff and sleeve. • — For upper lap sew on in same manner. 4 5 stitch to than when cover seam. —Cut two straight strips.— of Lesson 69. TURN BACK Make exactly the same as for shirt made of double length to turn back or instead of at the top. which is so much in vogue now. Baste inside of the sleeve. or you may — Attach sleeve to lining of the cuff and turn back right edge of cuff and If cuff. COAT SLEEVE. 34th St. cuff.

Croup and Protection Against Pneumonia An old proverb says: "Never neglect a fresh cold if you would avoid sickness.: Sneezing. and_ revoice. The lap pocket as shown in the figure of the coat in Lesson 96.Lesson 73. Pengelly's Sure Shot) FOR Colds. which treatment. sore throat or nostrils.— Persons suffering thus are martyrs to every change of weather. been made at the bottom and both sides of the lap. letting the needle pass through the entire thickness After a row of stitching has of threads from the bottom mark to the top. Pengelly was led to formulate force on the weaker parts. is the only one very much in evidence these days. Dr. the Price 50c per bottle The Zoa-Phora Cold Remedy and the Zoa-Phora LaGrippe Remedy are for sale at 50c per bottle at alllfirst-class drug stores. hut showing its greater From these deductions. The patch pocket. Then draw your thread from the top mark in a straight line to the bottom mark and back again on the opposite side of the goods. Page 49 . The most trifling exposure renews the attack. together with the use of certain remedies in the treatment of the disease. and stitch on the lap. These investigations. blurred eyes. Dr. if taken promptly on the first signs of the disease— known by aching of the head. thus preventing a tedious and perhaps dangerous illness. SoreThroat. A speedy and safe cure is invaluable. Since the tiilly now justly famous ZOA-PHORA LaGRIPPE REMEDY. as seen in Lessons 87 and 107. It does not operate on the douche principle merely drying up and washing out the secretions. but restores the parts to healthy action. it should be fastened as Measure one-eighth inch above and one-eighth below the slit and mark. The lap must be cut on an exact grain of the goods and should be lined with silk or some light material. etc. convinced the Doctor that LaGrippe was (from whatever inducing cause) a sudden and general congestion attacking more or less the whole system. throat. is very simple to make. and at the same time increasing the severity of the usual symptoms. symptoms. viz. back stitch the pouch into the slit of the garment. brow or cheek.—POCKETS. Zoa-Phora La Grippe Remedy first invasion of the disease known as LaGrippe in this country. A NEGLECTED COLD. slit from tearing into the cloth. Hem tops and turn in bottom and both sides and stitch on garment. Penhad been a careful student of its nature." More suffering comes from neglected colds than from all other causes. headache. and results. For partial list see page 96 of this book. back and limbs sometimes with chilly sensations and nausea— will almost invariably meet and control the disease. except that their outer edge is usually joined in the facing or with the seam of the ruffle. Cough. Sewing Apron pockets are made in the same way. To keep the follows: Zoa-Phora Cold Remedy (Formerly Dr. Such you have in Zoa-Phora Cold Cure. cough. dullness of hearing and smell. Back stitch the pouch into the slit of the garment and stitch on the lap. The pocket should be of heavy mercerized goods made into a pouch the desired depth. rendering the disease still more difficult to treat. ZOA-PHORA COLD REMEDY Its improves the sight and hearing- most remarkable storing the impaired of effect is the clearing of the head. tightness at the root of the nose. Repeat this process until you have firmly secured the slit— then bring the thread through and work over and over. pain in the temples.

Wool goods should be laid right side down and a wet Repeat at ironing sheet placed over it and ironed until it is perfectly dry. Very thin goods should not be sponged Sponging not only helps your or shrunken. but prevents its spotting and wrinkling so much. f*. have a hot flat iron conveniently near. Shino Chemical Dust Mop. least once. Lesson 74. Lesson 75.— PRESSING. In pressing folds always see that the fold is perfectly straight. Shino Chemical Floor Polisher. to. attract dust. Page 50 . but your goods will Ginghams and stay fresh and in shape long enough to pay for your trouble. garment to hold its shape better. Cleveland. Ail 4" f* 522 ° Sweeney Ave. always remembering it is almost impossible to put too much good press work on a garment. but twice is better. Much of the beauty of a gown depends upon its pressing. as the result of a marvelous chemical process. Shino articles. with dust. wring out and then press until dry. all Sold by good dealers. Shino Chemical Broom Cover. lint and germs. If you are not good at pressing it would be best to baste back your seams in their exact place until you get more accustomed to pressing them in place. Wool goods should nearly always be sponged and shrunken as should ginghams and linens.— SPONGING AND SHRINKING. Shino Chemical Mitten Duster. Simplex Mop Handle. An electric flatiron is a great advantage to the woman doing her own dressmaking. This is a slow process. and in pressing sleeves one should shrink considerable of the fulness that is apt to occur on the inside seam of the arm at the elbow. rinsing in warm water good as new. especially in making a wool garment. r»l| Ine rioneerMrg.Shino Dust Absorbing Articles Reduces the Labor of Dusting and Polishing One-half. but in case one is not at hand one must always. Dampen and iron till the cloth is perfectly dry then dampen once again and repeat the pressing. Ohio CHAPTER VIII. for a good presser can straighten out a multitude of little defects in sewing and stitching. Shino Chemical Handle Duster. Always have a good piece of cotton long enough to cover the entire seam. linens should be dipped in water in which has been placed a handful of salt. especially anything with a mesh. just as a magnet attracts steel. while a poor presser can make the most carefully put together garment look badly. When filled makes them The The The The The The The Shino Chemical Dust Cloth. or sent postpaid by the manufacturers.

By courtesy of the CUTTING GUIDE 4-4/0 SIDE 6ftCK C^ POLO OP 36 INCH MflTERIflL WITH NAP BflO puzzling for hours to find how to lay out the pattern properly. 823 Superior N. and no Mistakes are impossible with this guide before you. No chance of wasting an inch of material mistakes.— CUTTING GUIDE. No CUTTING GUIDE 4069 FOLD more than you OF 54 INCH MATERIAL WITHOUT Pictorial NAP' their need.Main 2189 SEWING MACHINE SUPPLIES AND REPAIRS BRYSON CO. E. No chance of cutting two backs or two fronts because a careless folder picked up two pieces instead of one. cutting guide a child Review Patterns are error proof and with can lay out and cut a garment as well as an expert. just as an expert would lay it out in order to cut it from the least possible material. It shows just how to lay out the pattern on the goods correctly and scientifically. we show their patent cutting guide.. Central 2259-L For prices on any Sewing Machine or Supplies PHONE or CALL on Expert Repairer will Call and Give Estimate Lesson 76. — Page 51 . Pictorial Review Co. (See Department 6). There is absolutely no chance of cutting one piece the wrong way of the goods. One accompanies every Pictorial Review pattern. 1 Before beginning see that you have every thing necessary to go ahead. CUTTING.

your is thrown out when you start to make alterations. to 2 P. to 2 P. After Theatre Parties a Specialty Private Dining Rooms Reserved for Dinner Parties Special Attention Given Ladies without Escorts Our Kitchen is Open for Inspection to Patrons from 11:30 A.with a good paper pattern for your size and suitable to height and individuality. 622 Prospect Avenue ^n i — i i =ir=i i==i r=i i= ir^=: it=H Cleveland's Finest and Most Elaborate Chinese-American Cafe Shoppers' Novelty FROM 11 Luncheon A. Do not make the mistake of buying a pattern a size too large or a size too small. M. and one chosen with due regard for the material to be made up and for the occasion of the wearing of the garment. M. Page 52 .M.M. but get your own size otherwise the entire proportion of your garment 2 —Provide yourself style. Main-2371-J C— 6417 r £ ar=H r=]G "N \ The Mandarin No.

baste it up and make all necessary alterations of the pattern (Lesson 77).-. The nap should always rub down except velvet. See that every piece is on precisely the — your material as designated on the construction guide. being most wrinkles either pattern or goods. 5 If the garment has a lining cut the lining out first. 6 Follow exactly the construction guide for laying on your pattern which you have altered to fit your figure. Cleveland . UnlO LakeWOOd. 10 Then with tailor's chalk or with a colored cotton thread run a line showing all the marks and perforations of the pattern. flowered or have a design see that it all runs in the same direction. 11 —Then proceed to baste together as is directed in Lesson 77. and ac- cording to the construction guide. right angle of should rub up. which furnished free with every Pictorial Review pattern. Ohio Selling Merchandise that bears the Stamp of Quality. and fit it perfectly 3 If — — — before cutting into the dress goods.your goods are wool or gingham or such as need attention follow directions (see Lesson 74). 4 Iron out every piece of your pattern and identify each section and if there is any doubt in your mind compare it with the similar piece on the construction guide. A RELIABLE STORE The Boston Dry Goods 8813-17 Wade Park Avenue 13592 Euclid Avenue 8601 Detroit Avenue 14712 Detroit Avenue Co. and will save you many possible is — 8— Pin down the pattern. and if your goods have a nap very strict attention must be given that the grain or nap lie in the same direction. Striped or plaid materials must be perIf the fectly matched so the strips run into the seams on the same angle. no properly laid on cut out with very sharp shears so the goods are not frayed or haggled and under no circumstances fail to cut out every notch indicated on the pattern. then it fold. goods are 7 When the width of the goods will permit lay the pattern on the double fur or plush. 9— When absolutely sure every piece in careful to have it perfectly flat and — errors.. This is of vital importance to the success of your garment. for preparation. at prices that are no more and often less than elsewhere Good Values Courtesy Page S3 Progressiveness . until you have made sure what it is and where it belongs.

#100 down and $10 month buys a lot 40x125 for $750. Cen.. write us. according to waist measure. FITTING AND ALTERATION. Grean System of Fitting. These are made in Black and White.— CONSTRUCTION. work and worry can be avoided by procuring the Grean Fitted Waist Linings and Foundations as it saves all of the labor of cutting basting. making of waists. or through a reliable dealer. and needs to be fitted only by adjusting the seams above the boned portions and on the shoulders. 121. and the upper part of coarse Net which forms just the right kind of a foundation for light waists. or the one accompanying your pattern. But if you decide to make your own lining or foundation the following directions must be carefully followed.. is shaped seamless belt. etc. 2044 Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. Main 5283 Ground Floor 327-329 East 34th Street. Do not attempt to put your garment together without this construction guide. It tifully BEACH GROVE improvements are being and homes erected. get off at East 152nd St. hours of time. to be guided by the waist and not by the bust. which protrude above the belting and are finished with hooks and This is the new eyes. 122 If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealers. show you Always Page 54 . putting on the hooks and eyes. specially for the summer or for warm climates. constantly before you for it In the — CONSTRUCTION GUIDE 44JQ SLEEVE SECTIONS 'SIDE will BACK C plainly which pieces to join together and just where to join see that the notches correspond and that the seams are taken up on exactly the line shown and that each portion of your goods is in ar- them. We will supply you direct. Take Euclid Beach Car to Beach Grove on Lake where all installed Shore Boulevard. ONELLY 120. The" made with a wide. New York Lesson 77. boning. beauboned. Williamson Bldg." "VOTES FOR WOMEN are not so necessary as 44 Greanet »» LOTS FOR Many WOMEN are buying Invisible Home of them Sites in Waist Foundations Are used in making light weight lace or chiffon waists where a t ght-fitting lining would be out of place.

White Sewing Machine Co. Black or White ^. The greatest of care should be taken in the basting up of the seams of your garment. It's with another time saver which herringbone belting hooks and the busy operator will surely appreciate. Form Made wide of Finished handy tool to have around. cut it out. put it together and fit it. For Unlined Waists and Dresses USE Grean Shaped Seamless. Boned Girdle A SCREW is DRIVER. for it takes time... for the effect lies in perfect lines and it is impossible to obtain these without good basting. We shall be glad to demonstrate it at any time. you don't care to use it unnecessarily. and make See cut 4410. Your Dealer BOTH PHONES 426 Prospect Ave. If the garment has a lining. but naturally. but with the White you simply a very raise a latch.«e . Page 55 Sizes 22 to 33 inclusive Waist Measure. all necessary alterations before cutting into the dress goods.American cordance with the diagram of your construction guide. With a great many Rotary machines in order to remove the Shuttle one has to use a screw driver and take out three screws. r 35c at eyes Don't forget it! The White Rotary means more to you in a sewing way than you can think.Have rpT?T T TIVT/^'C 1 EEd lULLllMjiS ICECREAM? CONSTRUCTION GUIDE4069 French .

Monks Osteopathic Physician 302 Lennox Building Treatments by Appoin tmen t Res. Bell Main 3938 . Margaret B.Central Dr. Bell South 188-L Off.

To alter for very straight figures. and let out gradually the seams the deIncrease also the side sired width. extending each gore an inch at the top.. — — — and backs. Begin six inches below the hip line and gradually take up the seam.If garment wrinkles. edges of the gores. until you have a perfect fit. Skirts must be altered in the seams. and fill in the hollow of the back by sanitary pad. If the hips are too large. Care must always be taken alter To for — — — not to take too large a seam across the hips. After you have properly cut and fit and altered the lining of the waist and measured and adjusted the pattern of your skirt. between shoulders or across chest or at neck or armhole. as alter. Ohio Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister to Sept. Baths Massage Madison. well made gown. but do not alter any seams to remedy this trouble. Begin six inches below the waist line and increase seam gradually until the correct size is obtained about the waist. To take up skirt at waist. alterations must be made from the shoulder seams and arm hole. at the hip line of the front and side gores. Ohio Page 57 . and its length adjusted from the bottom or six inches below the hips. carefully but before the outside material is cut into you must know that your pattern and lining are both altered exactly right. If the hips are too small. and gradually slant to meet the side back seams. To alter for large abdomen. Begin six inches below the waist line of remembering. you will then be ready to cut into your dress goods. 1 Summer Camp Apply to the 1 Open July 1 to June Systematic Exercise and Recreation Young Women's Christian Association Prospect Avenue and 18th Cleveland. Begin six inches below the waist line. except the front and the front edges of the side gore seams. being careful to keep a perfect seam line. than to alter the back of the skirt any more Fpr flat — the back seams. 32nd Lake Grove Farm St. The same general instructions of careful work and perfect fitting and correct alterations apply to the making of all garments. hole. that it is better to take up fullness as possible. Gymnasium Open Oct. Begin six inches below the hip line and decrease the width of the seam. —Take arm up a seam. and the same general instructions apply. the necessary width. 1 Boating Bathing Out of Door Life Turkish. which you are following in making the garment in hand and you cannot fail to have a well fitting. two inches below the lower line of the Square or Sloping Shoulders. however. much of the a hygenic and than absolutely necessary. for if too tight the skirt will wrinkle and draw. Or if skirt must be enlarged at waist. Then follow the specific instructions of the lesson. Begin at the same point six inches below the waist and decrease the size of the seam. Electric Light and Shower Rest West Side Branch Franklin and W.

Ohio CLEVELAND. If your dealer cannot supply you we will send by mail. handkerchiefs She always has her hair neatly and and neckwear and all her are immaculately clean and no rips. (Two Women) 1790 East 68th Street Cleveland. In fact the well groomed woman studies herself. eyes or buttons ever missing and her shoes are always clean Her skirts always hang evenly and her belt never is out of place or shined. care or culture of that beauty which or less. tears or spots are ever visible and no hooks. THE WELL GROOMED WOMAN. postpaid. one who exhibits cleanliness. We cannot be this if our livers are out of order and our complexion anything but what we would wish open pores. dress. but with her If she is inclined to be stout she does not wear plaids individuality and style. B. The skin can be made smooth. The well groomed woman's clothes are never loud or conspicuous and the colors always harmonize not only with the occasion for wearing. which make the face look old and cross are unnecessary— remove them with the Crown and Bridgework a Specialty B. These unsightly. Scientific beauty culture means bodily and scientific —that to is. Both are put up in 25c. & P. Wrinkle Eradicators. the wrinkles erased and the beauty greatly increased by the nightly application of these well known B. 50c and S1. Sold at drug and department stores. & P. certain. safe. Wrinkle Eradicators Simple. It Mother Nature gave the wisest everyone. OHIO Page 58 . SCIENTIFIC BEAUTY CULTURE. on receipt of price. dressed —her gloves. and above all her collar is always in perfect position and neatly fastened fancy pins or with invisible fasteners.00 boxes.— CHAPTER woman The well harmony and appropriateness of groomed becomingly fineries is XII. CO. & P. at birth. telling marks of time. and gowns herself to express an innate sense of refinement and good taste. fairy-like figures and a painfully thin woman does not show good teste in wearing stripes and such combinations as are supposed to be worn only by women desiring to reduce the appearance of their size. more our duty to ourself as well as to others to be all that is bright and healthy and beautiful. leaves no marks. contains no chemicals. Seventh Floor. together with an appreciation of the appropriate either with and the beautiful. neatness. including booklet on care of face. Schofield Bldg. FROWNERS are for the lines between the eyes. skin dry and is — Frank Dowd DENTIST LOOK OLD? Wrinkles are only skin deep. or reds or pinks or any of the colors or materials suitable only for slight.

$5. $2.00. corners of eyes and over forehead.50. Paris and Nice.50. discolored eyes to proper smoothness and fulness. GANESH EASTERN BALM SKIN FOOD $3. closes pores and alleviates skin flabbiness and puffiness under the eyes. Bottle. $6. and in consequence there are flabby. $2. Rue Chauvain REGISTERED TRADE MARK Page 59 . for tender. FACIAL MASSAGE. LONDON 92 21 West 38th Street. WRITE FOR VALUABLE BOOK containing list of all GANESH Preparations and Treatments and much beauty information and advice. Faithfully used they accomplish the most wonderful results everything that is claimed for them. lined. ADAIR'S GANESH TOILET PREPARATIONS AND FACIAL TREATMENTS obtainable for years only at her Salons in New York. illness and time. GANESH DIABLE SKIN TONIC. restores lined. owned and patented by Mrs. — MAIL ORDERS FILLED for all preparations and appliances on receipt of cheque.00. W. withered skins to velvety SUPERFLUOUS HAIR TREATMENT HYGIENIC smoothness. can be obtained nowhere else in the world. holGANESH EASTERN MUSCLE OIL braces sagging muscles. NEW YORK. PARIS Cambo Cambon MIPP" ll*\_I-. or that the muscles and tissues of the cheeks have become relaxed.00. originated.00.50. These Imported Appliances. including the Strapping Muscle Treatment. Electrolysis is almost painless. $5. $2.50) lost contour. a splendid face wash. are the antithesis of "make-up". 75c. on looking sideways into our hand glass. TIRED EYE TREATMENT restores tired. $1.unhealthy a state of neglect that makes the lines wrought by worries.00.00) which cures deep lines between brows.50. $5. $3. Bottle. as they reach the CAUSE of all blemishes and re-establish by natural means a healthy complexion. sparkling eyes and a youthful contour.50. dry skins. THIS PHOTO PORTRAYS THE GANESH CHIN STRAP ($5. either that a gross ''double-chin" is beginning to form. to become deeper day by day. fills lows and removes wrinkles. strengthens the skin. London. pendulous — MRS. ph one G reeley 1 3475 Bond New St. which removes double chin and and the restores GANESH FOREHEAD STRAP ($4.00. which with maturer years will surely become a hard line between it and our original chin. with a line like a big wrinkle. Sometime we may be rudely awakened by finding.00. Adair exclusively. $1. 75c. by antiseptic $2.

and loses its beauty of coloring. sole • Ellsworth. Cleveland Recommended by N. MRS. "How to Retain and Restore Youthful Beauty of Face and Form. Our everyare graduates where. Toledo. which are so clearly and thoroughly explained in the interesting and instructive book. Adair at 21 West 38th them — St. is All foot troublespermanently relieved by scientific corrections under supervision of a surgeon. Adair's methods of reducing superfluous flesh. But when. Dr. FULTON Manicuring and Chiropody Room 604 Standard Bldg.. rounded contour is maintained in all its attractiveness by the support afforded by the fat beneath it to the skin that lies smoothly over it like unwrinkled satin. for into place. it restores tone to the flabby muscles. to which so many women owe their rejuvenated appearance. off. 1V1<i to 6 p. removing lines. N. Huron Bldg." which you may have for the asking by mail or in person at the parlors of Mrs. scientific and constant care. Beckman Bldg. Stone Prop. New York. adverse climates. originators. altogether altering the shape of the face and adding years to our age. effective treatment called the Ganesh Strapping Muscle Treatment. raises and gives back the youthful shape and appearance to the face. hollows are formed in cheeks and temples. Your skin is not a dead thing to be left alone it is a sensative part of you. and the skin falls into lines and furrows. of eliminating deep frown lines. 6U0 Madison Ave. and filling out hollows. but nothing has ever met with anything like the instant and entire success of the wonderful. and Mine. it needs skillful. 0.. taught. Y. be one of them and Let Me Give You a Sample lar ELLSWORTH COLLEGE 514 Permanent Bldg. In youth the soft. MAUD 716 Permanent Bldg.OH ^ > 1VIY FOOT .KJ y- ' _• Creme de Luxe a delightful preparation to use in Does not wear place of powder. Call owners of Ellsworth System. hanging on either side of the chin. teachers and the DeLong's Cucumber and Almond Massage Cream Used and recommended by Cleveland's best people. Cleveland. 0.. Stone's Shoe Store Send 12 cents sale all for sample. 0. of treating tired. Creme de Luxe 505 Hours S a. Buffalo. 323 Euclid Ave. There have been many treatments for the difficulties and for the cure of double chins. absorption of some of this fat takes place.m. double chin and restoring a youthful contour. DeLONG SKALLA Dermatologist and Chiropodist Page 60 . Personal instructions by D. Ellsworth All Facial of College branches beauty science V. yellow or blood-shot eyes are marvelously efficacious. R. this even support of the muscles and skin is withdrawn. from illness.m. in 2462 -J bags. No woman need lose the shape of her features nor the grace of her figure if she practices the Ganesh Exercises and Treatment. exposed to heat and cold. or any other cause. For stores. Mrs. Makes skin soft and velvety.

when the subject of renewing their wardrobe presents itself. but in all of which restores the original brilliancy and lustre to furniture. 9 — Corsets. 15 — Dinner Gowns. —Furs. —Sanitary Skirt Protector. 23 — Hair Dress. —Hosiery. Belts. 1 2 3 "Never Mind. 22— Millinery. accessories. 18— Kimona. — Night Gowns. especially if one is preparing their clothes in advance for the season or perhaps arranging for a trip or a visit or for some occasion where a rather complete outfit is needed. 16— House Gowns. 20— Housekeeping Gowns. 6— Sanitary Belt. 30— Scarf. — Evening Gowns. Page 61 . must be considered case an incidental cost in you to are planning all on just so much at A few drops on your dustcloth does the work. pianos. Often one does not know when to begin. 7 — Drawers. & CO. 28—Jewelry. 10— Petticoats. — Union Suits. 0. Below we give a list which will help you in planning and serve to remind you of the essentials of every woman's complete wardrobe. 26 Monarch Polish Not will fix it 29—Veils. 12— Shoes. 21 — Aprons. Added too to these are the numberless trifles to tains a varnish dries instantly. Conno acid or injurious ingredients. — numerous mention. — Corset Covers. Ties. 27 — Coats. Cleveland. — Chemises. Standard Polish for 35 years. 13 — Traveling or Street Gowns. hardwood finish and hard- Polishes and wood floors. Mamma" 4 5 11 14 19— Bath Robe. 25 — Collars. Large size bottle 25c at your dealers' money should itures supply your needs.THE WARDROBE. 8 — Brassieres. 24— Handkerchiefs. 17 — Negligee Gowns. and least 10 per cent of your entire appropriation for incidental be reserved expend- BAIRD BROS.

to 48 ins. and while supporting the bust. instead of pressing it down. Ladies Improved Sanitary Belt and we have found no better on the market. So much depends upon this one point. your article in — not fit perfectly. are but few more ruinous habits than the use of safety pins and is There improvised methods character. the same as with any ordinary corset. send us his name and 25c for sample belt. and that is a are most unwill unless properly constructed not stay clasped or will not hold the napkins in place.&N. that There is one small as article no woman should be they without but they either belt Sanitary Belt. as it does not constrict the waist and is designed and cut on the idea of supporting the abdomen. N. F Manufacturers For Comfort 40 Lispenard St. neither will the most expensive. Sizes of Belts are actual waist measure. Order large enough to drop well down over hips.(A) CORSETS. inclusive. many makeshifts on they are the market. lungs.. that the choice and judgement of the most experienced corsetiere should be consulted. E. gown will (C) SANITARY BELTS. At All Dealers "W. for unless your corset fits your individual figure. for the fit of your gown carriage. but a well made can not only be worn with comfort but can be easily adjusted and will prove secure. your entire wardrobe that should be given more There is no the grace of your careful attention than your corsets. carefully made garment look its best. — We A Standard Pattern with our improved "Never-Slip Clasp" ( Patent Applied For ) Requires No Safety Pin Easily Adjusted in sizes Absolutely Secure Made 22 ins. in fact the foundation of your entire appearance to say nothing of your health and comfort lies in the well fitting corset. there are satisfactory. Dept. it allows entire freedom and full expansion to the chest. New York City Page 62 . POSTPAID. B. of fastening and your outfit not complete without a belt of this have carefully examined the W. you are unable to procure it from your dealer. heart In other words it will allow one to dress according to the and stomach. Wright & Sons Co. If sizes 22 inches to 48 inches inclusive. & N. latest styles. Webbing at Front and Back Wm. but without the torture." High Grade Elastic Ladies' Improved Sanitary Side. We at all times recommend the Berthe May "Hygie" corset as we find its hygienic and physical advantages cannot be disputed. like many other corsets do.

less Beware of worthimitations. women. but have never before been able to secure in an ideal form. If you get a good one you can wash unless a sure protection is afforded. have doubtless often realized. Page 63 . For misses and business ladies in mode summer of ladies' attire or evening dress. odorless. and press it and always have it in perfect condition. 1908 This garment and This article is fully protected Sanitary Skirt protector will be mailed to any address in the receipt of price the Upon Ama by patent. 22nd. The Ama Sanitary Skirt Protector is an article especially desirable for the present dress. THE AMA Sanitary Skirt Protector Patented Sept. We recommend the skirt protector as one that will give entire satisfaction. for one is never safe at certain times to wear their gowns and dainty underwear.(C) SKIRT PROTECTORS. CLARENCE BUILDING CLEVELAND. $1. made with lace net yoke affording perfect ventilation and can be readily laundered. sanitary skirt protector a necessity to A AMA PSmmfW^ An article every is *^&™ woman will of welcome market THERE now on the the needa ready-to-wear which you wardrobe acce:sory. nurss people it is almost indispensable. O. Call and let us demonstrate this article to you. nmde of a high grade white rubber muslin. is every woman's wardrobe. 117 purchasing. nize trademark before A1VIA CO.00 each qualities. Always recogour United States. The Ama Sanitary Skirt Protector has so many c salient featur. tourists. as flexible as fine linen. fit and durability. It is absolutely waterproof.s that it cannot be ex elled for com ort. and theatrical The excellent material used guarantees its wearing is made in medium large size selling at Price 50c.00 and $2.

and if possible hand embroidered in any of the beautiful designs which can so easily be procured and done. skirt supporter on the market than is shown below.. practical.ARBORj TEA SHOP Earner flat ^oppe where 6541 Euclid Avenue Exclusive Models in Dress and Tailored Hats. refinement and a respect for the shape. style and setting of one's face and features. sent postpaid. S. No sharp points to hurt fingers. Every careful dresser. when wearing a waist that is separate from the skirt. Even though the edging and insertion be of fine lace or embroidery it will greatly add to the beauty of the garment to have at least a small floral design of hand work. Little rubber The "LOOP-HOLD" Shirtwaist BELT corrects a common fault in dress. Simple. feathers and flowers. at back. 15 E. but the majority of women Waist Cannot Be Displaced pyramid "Units" grip and keep waist from riding up. off into the their eye as to color (E) SHIRT WAIST SUPPORTERS. but for church and theatre wear one A may branch more elaborate and trimmed effects and can satisfy and decoration of ribbons.. Metal parts cannot rust. corset covers and drawers should be of dainty muslin or fine linen. New York Page 64 . The night gown. gown as the waist There is nothing that ruins the entire appearance of a out of place above the belt line or perhaps showing a dividing line between the skirt band and the waist line. great improvement over old style belts. chemise. the street or traveling should be selected of one of the soft plain shapes with simple trimming. effect There is no better (F) LINGERIE. Price 15 Cents. but great care should be used that the selection be one that exhibits taste. both French and Domestic. 1/ not at dealers. hat for business. held in by patented " loop. Dept. Many make these garments entirely by hand. elastic sides. with so much pleasure at one's leisure time if handy with the needle. on receipt of price. Price 15 Cents at Department Stores AGENTS WANTED DAVID BASCH. 17th St. Self-acting buckle stays put." take double hold without undue pressure. should wear a waist supporter in order that a good about the waist can always be relied upon. graceiul. Pat'ee &Mfr. CORNER SUPERIOR AND 105TH THE WARNER HAT SHOPPE considers it possible for every woman to have an Individual Style A Gift all Shop and Tea Room can be found Novelties in Art and Needle Work (D) MILLINERY.

be a cloth a rain-proof fabric of "Cravenette" proof is a process which The process permeates every fibre renders a cloth or garment water-proof. rendering the cloth permanently rain-proof, and rain will then of the yarns, You can have your coat, suit, wrap, or neither wet nor spot the garment. motoring garments made from the Priestley Cravenette Cloths, and you will If you are obliged to be out in all kinds of find your needs perfectly met. weather, rain or shine, you should by all means have a "Cravenette" rain-coat. We specify "Cravenette," because a genuine Cravenette-proof coat contains no rubber, is porous to air, yet rain-proof and has not the disagreeable odor common to most raincoats, and too, there is not the stiffness of the material, which renders many of the rain coats so undesirable and unattractive. The Cravenette-proof process leaves the cloth just as supple as before and every The main point to bear in fibre of the yarns is made thoroughly rain-proof. mind is to get a rain-coat that is strictly hygienic, keeping the dampness out without preventing ventilation. However, if you are only out in an occasional sprinkle or shower, a rain-coat is unnecessary, but you should have a street
to

(G) RAINCOATS AND people imagine Cravenette some sort but such is not the case.

WATERPROOF GARMENTS.

Many

or business or traveling suit

made

of

any of the Priestley cloths of serviceable
twill,

and wearable mohair suitings, serge, chevoit, whipcord, etta, which you can get "Cravenette" proof.

taffeta,

henri-

How
•/.
BE6USPAT OFF.

to Tell

This circular

registered trademark
l

Silk y^^y^pti^^fiyci^ Labe

is

stamped on the inside and a sewed at the collar or elsewhere.
is

None Genuine Without Them
The )££L~,.
all

applied to many kinds of cloth suitable for outer garchildren's men's, women's and ments in light, medium and heavy weights for seasons of the year, and are for wear in rain or shine.
-4Sf
is

" Rain Will Neither

Wet Nor Spot Them."

They con t ain no Rubber, have no

disagreeable odor; will not overheat or cause perspiration.

For sale by leading dealers in Men's, Women's and Children's Clothing.

t^Q^/ft2^t§#., Lt4
Bradford, England

K&4a*wwfit&t^.,USA
Hoboken, New Jersey

(^
A
postal to the

^^%/yy^
Bradford, England

New York

office of

B. Priestley

&

Co., 100 Fifth Avenue, will bring interesting booklet.

Page

65

A DROP OF OIL
is all

right in

its

place, but

it's

an

annoyance, and more than that, when it gets on goods that you are anxious to keep clean. The oil cup on the White Rotary prevents all trouble of the kind. It's a trifle, but

by attention to the little things that make the White Rotary the very best machine you can buy. Our terms will surprise you by their
it is

reasonableness.

White Sewing Machine Go.
426 Prospect Ave.

BOTH PHONES

Lesson 78.— CORSET

COVERS.— Cut

out

(Lesson

76),

of

embroidery,

nainsook, muslin, sheer lawn, linen, or any thin fine material.
tucks (Lesson 54). Join seams with French seam (Lesson 47).

Make

Hem Hem

fronts.

peplem and

fit

Gather at waist line son 64). Finish neck and armholes with embroidery scallops (Lesson 22), or face on right side with very fine embroidery. See Lesson 53.) Embroider any desired design (Lessons 19-25 inclusive). Make eyelets and run in ribbon to hold in fullness (Lesson 25). Close with small buttons and buttonholes (Lessons 29-30).

(Lesson 65). and make band of goods or of beading for belt (Les-

Lesson

79.— DRAWERS.

Cut out (Lesson

76).

Join with either plain or French seams.

(See Lessons 41 and 47.)

Face both sides of opening (Lesson Face around top for belt (Lesson
Put on
ruffle

53).
53).

(Lesson

56).

Make buttonholes (Lesson 27). Sew on buttons (Lesson 30).

Page 66

have not the time to put so much personal labor on their wardrobe, but the character of a woman is more easily discerned by the daintiness, prettiness and completeness of her lingerie, than by the beauty or elaborateness of her best gowns.
In France, a bride has never less than 12 pieces of each article of underwear beautifully done by hand work and exhibited with great pride to all her
friends.

buying and making these garments that your lingerie with care will last for many years to come, and you can afford to put more time and expense on them than on your outside garments that change style, color and design to suit every whim and caprice of fashion.

Remember

in

Lesson 80.— CHEMISE. Procure a good chemise pattern and make exactly as instructed in (Lesson 79), on the making of night gowns.
Lesson 81.— NIGHT GOWN. Cut out (Lesson 76). Join with dainty French seam (Lesson Embroider neck and edge of sleeves (Lesson 22), or fact on the right side with any desired trimming of embroidery or lace fine (Lesson 53). Embroider desired design. (See Lessons 19 to 25 inclusive).

47).

Make eyelets (Lesson 25) neck, and draw about through ribbon to adjust
fullness.

Hem

(Lesson

48).

Lesson 82.— COMBINATION UNDERGARMENTS. Cut out (Lesson 76). Fit carefully (Lesson 77). Join all seams with French seams (Lesson 47). Set in yoke (Lesson 65). Put on beading and edging (Lesson 57). Sew on ruffle (Lesson 56). If for open drawers face both sides of opening (Lesson 53). Close with small buttons and buttonholes (Lesson
29-30).

3275

Page 67

Sew on buttons (Lesson 30). Join seams (Lesson 41). The material can be of large figured silk. Hem (Lesson 48). QBE Lesson 84. fleece lined goods. but have them made the proper length to wear with your For your sireet. for it is the dainty feminine expression of lingerie and negligee garments that expresses the refined womanly tastes and will prove of pleasure to you so long as they last. Page 68 .— SKIRTS AND UNDERWEAR WITHOUT PLACKET. lawns. Stitch the facing down securely. soft flannels or in fact almost any pretty Have your negligee gowns as attractive as your skill fabric may be used. silk.— PETTICOATS. and where the fullness commences make a slit on each side and insert a tape. dimities. The slit should be carefully worked with the button hole stitch (Lesson 24). house and evening gowns. East 135 1738 East 55th Street Cut out (Lesson 76).Lesson 83. GUI Chapel in Connection Jay P. and means will permit. business and traveling gowns. heatherbloom or even a good quality of sateen is preferable. Join ruffle (Lesson 56). DRESSING SACQUES AND KIMONAS. Have plenty of white skirts plain or elaborate to match your other lingerie of your outfit. drawing it through the slit on the opposite side. Parrish Funeral Director Bell Phone. Face upper edge of the garment (see Lesson 53). Make buttonholes (Lesson 29). challie. Face top (Lesson 53).

LADIES! Why

not go to the

"Shop

of

Kimonas and Art Laces"
ONE-HALF
Call At
before buying ?

and Save

150 The Arcade
And
See Our Beautiful Designs and Get Our Low Prices

Lesson 85.— DRESSING
Cut out (Lesson
76).

SACQUE.

Lay Sew

pleat in back.
all

seams.
48).
56).

Hem

bottom (Lesson
ruffles

Gather on

(Lesson
53).

Face collar (Lesson
Shirr
sleeves
at

elbow and shirr around

waist (Lesson 55), and finish with dainty
of bright ribbon at the waist.

bow

3591

Lesson 86.— KIM ON A.

Cut out (Lesson

76).

Sew

all

seams on machine.
48).

Hem

bottom of garment (Lesson

Make yoke and attach (Lesson 65). Make sleeves and put in (Lesson
5-8).

69,

omitting

Face edges and sleeves (Lesson

53).

The

facing should be of satin or

some

contrast-

ing shade of the same or a lighter material.

Q^FDon't
on
-page 4-

overlook the

new

scientific drugless treatment

explained

Page 69

Lesson 87.—APRONS.

Aprons are the simplest of all garments to make, No. 3857 is especially easy to make. Cut out goods (Lesson 76). Face all edges (Lesson 53). Make pocket (Lesson 73)." Make one buttonhole and sew on button (Lessons 29-30).

No. 3180 requires a little more time and effort. Cut out (Lesson 76). If embroidery for ruffle, bib and pockets is not used hem ruffle (Lesson 48). Face bib and pockets (Lesson
53).

Put on ruffle (Lesson 56). Put on pockets (Lesson 73). Gather and join bib to skirt of
apron.

Put on band (Lesson 64).
385?

KlL UNSTRUNG-

Is This the

Condition of

Your Nerves?

Is that the condition of your nerves? If so, your system is just like the violin shown above; utterly unable to perform the work for which it was intended. Until there is an improvement in these conditions, there is no chance for harmonious action between the various organs of the body. The office of the nervous system is to control and direct the vital forces. If the nerves are not strong, healthy and in proper tone they cannot do this work any more than can the violin give forth sweet and melodious music when "all unstrung."

You Do Not Need

mmk

Is
is

a Nerve STIMULANT, But a NERVE Food. a Nerve Food and Strength Builder.

At the same prepared especially to build up and strengthen the nervous system. time it purifies the blood and regulates the circulation, so that the nerve centers may distribute the vital forces to the organs in need. If you'are only slightly nervous, you ought to take ZOA-PHORA at once and thus thwart the onward march of the disease. If your nerves are already in such a shattered condition that they are threatened with nervous prostration, ZOA-PHORA will give you relief and strengthen your nervous system.

Read Page

95 for the Special

ZOA-PHORA

Oiler

Page 70

Lesson 88.— LINGERIE WAIST. Choose your pattern and
follow the instructions of

Lesson
shirt

90,

on

waists,

altering

making by

selecting the

desired design and effect and mak-

ing according to
Sleeves, Lesson 69 or 70.
Collars, Lessons 66, 67 and 68. Yoke, Lesson 65. Trimmings and Finish, Lessons 54, 57, 58 and 62. If a Lining is desired make according to Lessons 76 and 77.

40S5

Lesson 89.— HOUSE KEEPING GOWNS. Your house keeping gowns should be of percale or gingham or some wash goods so that at all times you can be immaculately clean. Have them made plain and simple so they can be easily gotten into and also have your aprons large, and of a material that washes neatly. Use instructions (Lesson 76), taking steps according to numbers; X-l, X-5, X-7, X-8, X-9, X-15. Then put on facing about sleeves, neck and down front and belt (Lesson 53). Now hem skirt (Lesson 48). Sew on buttons and make buttonholes (Lessons
29-30).

"It's

Easy to Pay the Rosenblum Way"

STYLISH GOODS Woman
For Man,
or Child

$1.00

PER WEEK

pays the bill

WE GIVE STAMPS
We Make Good Unsatisfactory Purchases We Never Misrepresent
GIVE US A CALL

M. Rosenblum

Credit Clothing Co.

2014 Ontario St. Cor.^hamplain
Mr. Rosenblum Himself

Page

71

Waists. pays for both at all stores where they give them). Upstairs Lesson 90. CLEVELAND CREDIT CLOTHING Over Atlantic CO. 6—Make sleeves and attach (Lesson 70). of course. — Gather at waist 5 7 line in and attach a belt or stitch bias band to hold gathers secure. growing by leaps and bounds. — — — — — — Hem the underside of the front closing. Our operating expenses are low. and stitch on both sides of pleat. 3 Fit and make any necessary alterations (Lesson 77). —We will give directions for making gown 4533 as contains nearly every element and requires the explanation of nearly all points of dressmaking. turning to the specific lesson as indicated. 8 Make collar (Lesson 66). and attach or put on neck band (Lesson 64). Suits. & Pacific Tea Company's Store 2165 Ontario Street. 2 Join with plain seams (Lesson 41). Shoes.—A shirt waist is something it seems no one has too many of they are so useful and so necessary for so many occasions and can be constructed of such a variety of fabrics and in such a wide range of styles. you cannot fail to develop your Page 72 . Jewelry.— SHIRT WAIST. Hundreds of are added to our already large patronage every is There We We is a Reason — High Rent District. 4 Form box pleat in right front. and leave collar loose. Skhts. etc. All Goods Sold on $1. We do not have any collectors. Coats. Dresses. 9 Lesson it 91. 1 Cut (Lesson 76). The quality of our merchandise is the best and our guarantee of absolute satisare not in the faction is given with every sale.00 a Week Payments Complete furnishers — Hats. — — Make buttonholes and sew on buttons (Lesson 29-30). — GOWNS. front and back. By following these instructions carefully and faithfully. do not handle any premiums nor give trading stamps (the customer.There Must Be a Reason Why our business new customers month.

Ptawi 3fttBtrufitum .

She is very properly interested in the schools which her children shall attend. New York London Headquarters: Louis Berlin San Francisco Vienna St. Charming Lingerie Frocks Smart Street Toilettes Afternoon Dresses in Foulards and Taffetas New and Fascinating Evening Gowns An Alluring Assortment of Lace Blouses in the New Casaque and Peplum Styles The PICTORIAL REVIEW is not wholly a fashion magazine although it carries more and better styles than any fashion magazine published. With these departments before you a magazine devoted wholly to housekeeping is a needless extravagance. The up-to-date American housewife is a thinking woman. 39th NEW YORK Page 74 . materia! Any ornamentation suitable to the occasion to be worn may be used. special articles in PICTORIAL are on subjects of interest to women. plain. housekeeping. its ideas will save much more than the cost of the magazine for a year. If you wish to please your husband's palate just give him some of the good. departments on cooking. For To be Dressed Styles in the Latest Fashion Select Your from the Season's Number The PICTORIAL REVIEW FASHION BOOK For sale by The May Costs only 5c When Purchased with a 15c pattern For sale by Co. 222-224-226 W. She is looking for more information constantly and PICTORIAL furnishes that knowledge. The household departments in PICTORIAL REVIEW. 59). The May Co.. tasty dishes described in PICTORIAL REVIEW'S COOKING DEPARTMENT. You had better subscribe now and find out about our magazine and our patterns. and in many other subjects which are of vital importance to her daily living. home decoration. in life insurance which cares for her REVIEW We We when the bread-winner is suddenly taken away.16 17 — Face bottom of skirt (Lesson —Sew on hooks and eyes (Lesson 53). In short. REVIEW The Pictorial Chicago Paris Review Company St. believe that the real American woman does not consider "home" to be just the house in which she lives. state and nation in which she lives." It covers every range of woman's activity completely.. making as low or as high cut gown as desired. are written by experts and their information is practical and daily useful. etc. PICTORIAL REVIEW is "The Magazine for Women. They make the so-called "fiction-magazine" unnecessary. a necessity in every home. It is Its suggestions. and in harmony with the an evening gown the upper portion of both lining and material of the waist can be cut away. find that she considers "home" to be the city. in the politics which make taxes high and her rent accordingly higher. The fiction stories in PICTORIAL RE- VIEW The are equal to the very best you can get anywhere. marketing.

Lesson 92.—EVENING AND DINNER GOWNS. Lesson 93. 'Make exactly according to Lesson 91. for a season 30. . and they should be as simple. as often too elegant evening gowns lie your unused and unenjoyed. For making see Lesson 91. Phones 4598 Central 1379-W . but for younger women prettiness and daintiness and attractiveness should be the aim rather than richness. Main . yet sometimes the other extreme is met. and the panel is used instead of the — GOWN — all-over flounce. Select carefully your materials with a view of perfect keeping with social demands and associates. Every wardrobe should hold as many evening gowns as the individual will have need of. when the same amount of money expended in two or three simple evening frocks would have constantly served to the pleasure and needs. or as magnificent as her station in life demands. and a number of cheap inappropriate useless garments purchased when one good garment of a more suitable nature would have been a better investment. except the breteile is crossed in the front instead of the back. elegance or elaborateness.

Boarding Home Transient Accommodations Employment Bureau Travelers' Aid .

for a tailormade coat or jacket. gether and some tailors use fronts of canvas prepared separately to fit the outside. 50c to $1. in and renders it unfit to be used your garment. you will notice that it is It is not only a foundation over a complete coat front. These tailor-made coat front foundations are made in different weights and lengths. 327-329 E. 34th St.. and at the top. which the cloth is placed. but you can detect cheap worthless coat front foundations by their stiffness. lightweight silk or velvet Grean suits and fur garments. "Tailor. must have more in it than an ordinary piece of canvas without preliminary preparations of careful sponging and shrinking. made of white French felt and edges of the best herringbone hair-cloth used for center stiffening.. to will make find a Those who are unable good tailor made front Grean's Tailor Made Coat for Front Foundations to be almost a necessity. in the shoulder. from the short Eton coat to a 32 inch length coat so much worn now. There are several methods of making jackets and coats. A good sized arm-pad surrounding. all heavy winter selves. them in medium weight variety to suit tailor suit. but it is also part of a pattern by which one can be safely guided. themself. Tailor-Made Coat Fronts Foundations are distinguished by their beautiful shaping and tailoring and every season the shapes change according to the prevailing To those who have found difficulty in making coat fronts for themfashions. which is usually nothing but glue. from the lightest silks to the heaviest automobile garments. it will be a good lesson and example to study Grean ready made and tailor- made make coat front foundation. but a tailored made coat front. New York Page 77 . If your dealer cannot supply you write us immediately. are protected with a white linen stay. you will find a Grean patented Shoulder form. which can be purchased for much less than one can Accept no imitations or substitutes. The foundation for the front of your coat or jacket is very important. will find coat.Made' ' Coat Front Foundation By examining the drawing alongside which shows the inside view of the Grean Tailor-Made Coat Front Foundation. They are all very soft and pliable. They in are a made variety upsuit to-date styles to different coats. You requirements. They are made of the best material appropriate for this purpose and are thoroughly sponged and shrunk. but the difference Some tailors sew cloth and canvas tolies chiefly in preparing the fronts. but well tailored and firm enough to support and retain shape permanently. a wide button hole stay runs the whole length of the coat.00 GREAN SHOULDER FORM & PAD CO.— CLOAKS AND SUIT JACKETS.Lesson 96. The present styles demand soft coat fronts.

1 1 5). 35 to 50c 50c lost its original shape. beautifully shaped and used in either short coats or long coats where only bust reinforcing is necessary and If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealer's.no more particular work in dressmaking than the proper tailoring of a jacket or coat and you should never attempt to make one of these garments in a hurry. — 8 Baste goods over lining and try on and fit perfectly (Lesson 77). for much of the beauty of the coat or cloak depends upon this part. nicely finished garment and the saving of doing this work yourself will allow you to put extra money into a better grade of material than otherwise you could choose or you can practically buy the goods for another suit. GREAN SHOULDER FORM & PAD 6 CO. NEW YORK — Baste ready in these bust forms of hair cloth or soft canvas. all 77). made of Hair-Cloth. 10 11 — — — Make and put pocket — Put in lining right side in 5). in. write us. sew up seams in desired manner (Lesson 41). above directions you will be able to work out a well fitting. —Make buttons and buttonholes (Lessons 29 and 30). No work or stitches should be left visible on the lining. press and sew turning in the lining to 13 — Make collar and attach (Lesson 67). (Lesson 73). 16—The trimmings can then be sewed on. 14 — Make sleeves (Lesson 72). strict attention to the By paying Page 78 . We will supply you direct or through a reliable used in garments where a coat front of canvas has been already used but has is extensively altering dealer and send you a catalogue of other dressmaking helps. 327-329 East 34th St. 7 Join seams of lining. 2 5). There is 4 — Lay on goods (Lesson 76— to — Cut out lining (Lesson 76— 3 — Baste up lining seams (Lesson — Fit and make necessary alterations (Lesson —'Cut outside material (Lesson 76—6-11). IS — Again press the entire garment. out and attach with very small slant stitches (Lesson 12 cover the seam. 3). 9 When an exact fit has been obtained detach from lining.. and press seams open. 5 Short Coat-Fronts Short Coat Front. in any style or manner desired. and press (Lesson 75). You can purchase made at any of our advertisers carrying Grean dressmaking supplies.

Read on the last page of this book your druggist' special offer to you of a free ten days' treatment of these Cones. They allay Inflammation and heal the irri71. L able and effective. Page 79 . safe. MICHIGAN. but in in- stances the clothing must be loose and comfortable and both the dress and underwear should be Special attento supported tion from the shoulders. The herself outfit an expectant mother prepares for entirely depends upon what her duties all require of her during this period. as not only the appearance. must be given the matter of corsets and the lining of the gowns. has been found. P^t^£L. They contain Nerve Tonics ANTISEPTIC which are absorbed into the Blood and VITALIZING COHES Give Vitality to the Whole System. Proprietors.ZOA-PHORA Antiseptic Vitalizing CONES Are for local treatment and are antiseptic in their action on Diseased Tis- sue and Unhealthy Conditions. a tated parts. CHAPTER XIII. ZOA-PHORA CO. MATERNITY OUTFIT. 50 CENTS. Ten days' treatment will convince you that no matter how serious your condition a positive relief Sample free upon request.. ^6. Cones are a female suppository. Beware of dangerous imitations that contain mineral and poisons and which have'no established fifty reputation. The Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones have in the past years permanently relieved thousands upon thousands of women and the price of a month's treatment for 50 cents makes them within the reach of all. reliPRICE. but the comfort of the individual to a large extent depends upon these two things. The Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing KALAMAZOO.

It is manufactured to be an absolute safeguard against all accidents for the mother as well as for the child. and it can be reduced to a normal size and worn as long as desired after the child is born. the same as an ordinary corset. A maternity corset must combine as an abdominal support and a corset in fact it must be a protection to the abdominal walls against too great relaxation and yet must serve to give grace to the figure and to make it possible for her to go about and be active during the entire period. and to attend to her customary vocation during the whole term of her pregnancy. The Lucine corset can be made gradually larger when wanted. together with photographic reproductions and full information. Mfr. in a normal condition. Prices from $5. and upon examination and investigation we find that the "Lucine" corset is so constructed that it can be worn as early as wanted. New York (98)— MATERNITY CORSETS. 10 E. which can be opened successively when more room is needed.00 Write for free booklet No. sent under plain envelope.BERTHE MAY'S Maternity Corset The only corset of this kind made for its own purpose. enables women to dress as usual. BERTHE MAY.. The most celebrated maternity corset that has come to our notice is the Berthe May "Lucine" corset. but she should never wear the ordinary style and cut. as her own health and that of her child would be materially injured by such a course. Physicians use it in their own families aud prescribe it to their patients. to deport herself with the greatest comfort. thanks to its exclusive and It procures an absolute simple system of gradual enlargement.00 to $18. as well as during the maternity period. and allows the mother to dress as usual. as it can be worn at any time. on account of the healthy support which it gives both the abdomen and to the back. to preserve a normal appearance. thus affording the comfort and safety so necessary in a weakened condition of the abdomen. Orders by mail filled with absolute satisfaction because of my perfect yet simple measurement system. abdominal support at all times. through a system of inside plaits of the material. to preserve a normal appearance and to attend to their every -day vocations. No — Page 80 . to be used whenever needed. expectant mother should go without a corset. 46th St.. Every woman should have this corset in her wardrobe. 15 Which will b. and yet with its own particular advantages.

- Zoa-Phora Ten minutes of this Pile Remedy PILE ZOA-PHORA KALAMAZOO. will forever convince you that to suffer with this disease is positively unGo to your Pull directions in each package. MICHIGAN. Cleveland's best Toledo.. how serious your case you will find the ZOA-PHORA PILE the one safe. and a very pliable. easy stretching elastic band is used for the belt. list of of time and 50 cents for a full month's treatment well-known meritorious effective Remedy. but it is seamed and faced and finished the same as given in the regular lesson on It should have a good sized pleat at each seam. falls is eyelets (Lesson 25) on both sides of all three openings. Ohio full line of druggists who handle the Zoa-Phora Remedies Page 81 . The instructions found in Lesson 91. See instructions (Lesson 76). Accept no substitute. Instead of making starting in the usual way the lining has dart seams from the shoulder and the center of the neck. PRICE. tion at the top for lengthening front and sides. and the dart seams either side from the shoulder faced back (Lesson S3). except the lining is finished altogether differently. Lesson 100. reliable and satisfactory treatment. 3916. 50 CENTS. and extending to the bottom of the waist lining. A IT /*phOHA (Trade Mark.Lesson 99. See cut of lining at top of Fig. maternity skirt is cut after a special maternity skirt pattern.) QA~rt X REMEDY CO. REMEDY— known See page 96 for ZOA-PHORA REMEDIES COMPANY. and an extenskirt making. druggist today ana procure a month's treatment before your No matter disease becomes more deep seated and chronic.— MATERNITY SKIRT.— MATERNITY GOWN. Make lacing. The opening down is the front shoulder is hemmed back. is arms where there but little Allowance must be made that enough goods left at the top of the skirt to extend the front and sides will as the figure demands in order that the skirt hang evenly all way around. Proprietors. Sample sent FREE upon request. and lace down with linen or elastic The band from which rather loosely fitted is the front of the skirt from exactly under the necessity to enlarge. for making. necessary. make this gown perfectly.

together with complete instructions for the making of them and if you are a wise girl you will begin with the first lesson of this book and master every point of plain and fancy needlework for it is one of the most refined acquirements possible for a gentlewoman to attain. purely a vegetable compound no alcohol. suits. 8— School dress. — Bath robes. 20— Cloak. belts and acces- sories. 1 vate prescription for women. 9 — Church dress. THE SCHOOL GIRL'S WARDROBE. To the girl after her who is away from home wardrobe we have made out a most useful in list or the one without a mother to look of necessary articles and you will find the list planning your wardrobe. narcotics or other dangerous or harmful drugs. — — Night gowns. All of your garments should be simple and Page 82 . 4 5 Growing Girls For over 50 years Zoa-Phora has proven an invaluable remedy to meet the needs of weak. You will find on the following pages suggestions of appropriate styles for your gowns. 16 17 Read our Special Offer Page 96 of this Book. while you are growing you can seriously injure yourself and your health. 6 7 — Petticoats. for every girl entering womanhood. 19 — Sweater. — House gown. 18— Corset waists. nervous.CHAPTER IV. Do not make the mistake of going without sufficient underwear and of a quality to give you sufficient warmth and have all of your lingerie plain and dainty. 21 — Furs. — Combination corset 1 combination 3 covers and -WOMAN'S FRIEND FOR drawers. 15 —Collars and ties. build up the tissues^strengthen the nerves and put the entire constitution in harZoa-Phora is monious condition. We would recommend the Berthe May "Hebe" Corset. as it will give you all the beautiful curves and angles without the discomfort and danger of the modern corset. Pengelly's pri- 13— Millinery. sickly girls and women. 11 —White petticoats. Zoa-Phora is Dr. for during the pliable age. opiates. 12— Hair ornaments. Special attention should be paid to your corsets. Get your shoes of sensible style and thickness and large enough to be comfortable regardless of the season or fashion. especially~compounded to purify and the blood. by wearing a badly fitted corset. enrich 4— Handkerchief s. — Light warm woolen 2— Under vests. 10 — Party dress. — Shoes. — Hosiery.

Follow instructions for making as found in LesGirl's dresses are The son style 91.girlish. edge. dainty garments will win for you a thousand fold more admiration than magnificent. 32nd Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister Choral Classes Bible Classes Page 83 . — GIRLS SCHOOL shirt waist DRESS. whose youth and its natural qualities need no artificial adornment.— ting GOWN if 3911. GIRL'S DRESSES. OHIO West Side Branch Franklin and W. and without collar Lesson 101. CLEVELAND.— Make has exactly according to Lesson 91. whose natural charms are beginning to wane. and if no lining X2— X6. the material if embroidery omit omit Xll. as nothing is more unattractive than rich elegant garments worn by a sweet faced girl. gorgeous effects suitable for the stage or at best for older women. made exactly on the same principle as a lady's dress. party and summer dresses. Follow instructions for (Lesson 89). Lesson 102. Collar (Lesson 63). Remember immaculate. shown is one widely approved of and very popular for graduating. sensible. Piano and Apply to the Junior and Industrial Mandolin Lessons Orchestra Practice Young Women's Christian ^Association Clubs Prospect Avenue and East 18th Membership Parties St. Skirt (Lesson 95). omit- hemming.

seams.CHILDREN'S CLOTHES. bot. M'f 'rs.00. repps. piques. $1. clean. and linens. Hem Close (Lesson with dainty buttons and small button- holes (Lessons 29-30).. 5 oz. Physicians recommend it. plain (Lesson 41). percales. Quickly cures Croup. so we do not take up space in giving this instruction. collar 68). O. ones daintily dressed and Lickes Drug Co. 50 cts. Prevents bronchial diseases. or French seams (Lesson Make Make Make ruffles and attach (Lesson (Lesson 48). Lesson 104. every instance possible should be of wash etc. novelty goods or any warm material must be worn. all tucks in goods before cutting (Lesson Cut (Lesson Close 76). but in the winter either underwear heavy enough to fully protect the child from the cold must be provided or woolen dresses of serge. sleeves and put in (Lesson 69). either 47). bot. Especially pre- sewing where an economical wife and mother can save to more advantage than in by doing the work herself the making of the children's clothes. In the latter instance the guimpe or sleeves it and yoke should always be of wash goods. severe Coughs. At Druggists.— CHILDREN'S DRESSES. Colds. Cleveland. ginghams. Used in Cleveland Orphan Asylums 20 years. poplins. Make 54). pared for Whooping Cough. 56).. The main goods such as point in planning children's garments in is to have them as plain and appropriate as possible. Every mother desires to see her little this requires 12 oz. Shortens and lightens the disease. flannel. There is perhaps no department of WHOOPING COUGH DUNHAM'S SPECIFIC. so that It is can be kept perfectly hardly economical to make boys clothing after they leave the "Buster Brown" period. Page 84 . more labor and is care and expense than usually figured on.

is edging used overcast on neatly (Lesson 57). drawers (Lesson 48). Face waist armholes. and sew on buttons (Lesson Fasten up back with washable buttons. 47).— CHILD'S COAT.— CHILDREN'S WAISTS AND DRAWERS.Lesson 105. the of the collar. Sew line a bias band around waist 30). is The cape joined at may be lined or unlined and the neck. except shoulders a of ruffles over the cape if desired may be made. band on drawers to (Lesson make buttonholes button on waist (Lesson 29). Put 64). seam hidden by the facing 4483 Page 85 . Lesson 106. bottom of (Lesson Hem If . S3). and make buttonholes or sew on loops of elastic cord. French seams (Lesson neck. Cut out (Lesson Join 76). A child's coat is made the after the same general instead principles as gown.

she usually prefers doing much of the work articles The Page 86 . six pair bootees. three wrappers. one cap. three sacks. and how many of each article to make. little necessary to a child's wardrobe are very simple and easy to make. brush. and if mother has the time to spare. one coat. so below we will give a list of absolutely nec- garments and articles together with an idea of about the number of each that the average expectant mother should have preessary Six dresses. sensible garment for the little one to play in. pared: three (white). for they are a comfortable. one diaper cover. six bibs. six night slips. six pair hose. To it ^3800 is the prospective mother. — Every mother should with rompers. child and saves the mother much care and thought concerning his clothes.BELLE VERNON MILK the Best Milk Lesson provide her 109. Make sleeves (Lesson 69). and a layout containing all necessary toilet articles. infant's etc. INFANTS WARDROBE. usually a question as to just what they are to make. one veil. Cut (see Lesson 76). Make pocket (Lesson Make belt 73). (Lesson 64). three petticoats petticoats (flannel). comb and safety pins. one kimona. three pinning blankets. — ROMPERS. especially one expecting for the first time. three dozen diapers. Sew up straight seams (Lesson 41). Put on collar (Lesson 68). Gather at knees. CHAPTER VII. tal- cum powder. six bands.

Lesson 110. Cut (Lesson 76). Kimona (see Lesson 86). gown (Lesson 104).— MAKING THE INFANT'S OUTFIT. both flannel and the dainty white ones are made under same instructions as Lesson 105. Sew up seams (Lessons 41 and 47). the edges turned in and finished with an edging of lace or feather stitched. The little flannel jackets are made in one piece and the edges should be The night gown. and a rapid recovery of natural health and strength afterward. quick and easy delivery at birth. Bibs should be of double thickness. The petticoat. of Birdseye linen or Canton flannel. and should take regularly during the last month of confinement and for one or two months after birth. embroidered or neatly bound with pink or blue ribbon. CAN anything than PHORA Read the Special Offer as Given on Page 97 Ex pectant mothers can not afford to be without Woman's Friend Page 87 . While Preparing for the Coming of the Little One. Make and put in sleeves (Lesson 69). Hem back the fronts (Lesson 48). but it should not be worn at all times as the ordinary waterproof diapers are not porous enough to let the air properly to the child's body. Make and attach collar (Lesson 68). or if lace or embroidery edging is not used you may feather stitch around the edge of the collar and down the front on either side of the buttonholes and many prefer to feather stitch the hem (see Lesson 18). Sew on lace or fine embroidery edging (Lesson 57). cut square. follow instructions for making child's PRINCESS SLIP.— The dress is made the same as instructed (Lesson 104) child's dress except very much longer. be more vitally important that the organs of maternity of the mother be in a perfect state of health and strength to undergo this trying ordeal? The expectant mother should begin to take ZOAas soon as pregnancy is known from time to time as needed according to directions. A rubber diaper should be made for protection on occasions § when you are traveling or taking your child away from home. Diapers should be made of good cotton diaper cloth. and neatly hem by hand. (see Lesson 106). the Mother's Health Should Be the First Consideration. This treatment is a positive aid in maintaining a good condition of health during confinement. and made as daintily as possible. Make buttonholes (Lesson 29). Sew on buttons (Lesson 30). The coat. Hem bottom of skirt (Lesson 48).

for a process or chemical that removes the spot from one material will set the stain in or ruin another material. M i(.CLEANING. You can do considerable for careful consideration mShT- ^!S>wb CLOTHES kept beautifully clean and in "crisp CUMMER'S Perfect (JAflVAS freshness" by every J^RESSING dainty housewife WITH CUMMER'S ffltCUMMEflPHODUCTSCO CltVEtAIO.«m. must always be given to the nature of the spot and the material.0»«> ENERGINE I 'SHOE OMOINATION DRESSING" GOOD AT ALL C STORES wuwmu moms cs i ei«n. The cleaning of clothes and accessories of the dress is often a problem. CUMMER'S SHOE DRESSINGS The Proper Dressing For EVERY Shoe Ask Your Shoeman Page 88 .

felts. if the stain is on a washable article. If the spot is still moist cover with sugar.THE UNIVERSAL DRY CLEANSING // it isn't CO. it should then be put in very hot water. silk or cotton can most effectively be removed with Cummer's Energine full instructions for its use are found on the bottle. Nevertheless you will need a few suggestions for removing the spots and clothes and which you may desire to stains that are so apt to get on your try to remove yourself. Down Town Store 532 Euclid Avenue your own cleaning at home by using Cummer's Energine. woolen. then pour boiling water through the of perfectly — — — spot until the stain has entirely disappeared. "Universal Dry Cleansing" It isn't the best. Rub pure lard on stain and leave for a few hours. then wash in sweet milk and rinse in clear tepid water. salt or flour until you have absorbed all the ink possible. Fruit Stains: Follow directions as for removing coffee stains. leathers. Cocoa Stains. there are many garments your articles in good fresh condition. Brass Stains. or if on heavier goods. General Offices and Laboratories \2\$ tO 1230 East 71st St. If the article is such that it can be boiled. Soak in cold water. and care should be taken to select a reliable place. if the goods can be boiled. Auto Call Call Us Up —Phones. and then rinse in ammonia water. Then follow directions as for removing blood stains. furs. laces. where you can depend upon your work being properly done. then wash in tepid soap suds and proceed as for blood stains. If on thin goods pour out a little alcohol in a bowl and rub out the stain. or if the ink — — — — Page 89 . We give you in these pages the addresses of first class establishments. then rinse and wash carefully in tepid soap suds. stain and not the rubbing. and it should always be kept on hand to keep However. silks. Boil from 20 to 30 minutes. dry cleaned. in which has been added a mixture of equal parts of "Elwako". Coffee Stains:— Do not soak or put into soap suds until boiling water has been poured through the cloth until the stain is removed. Grass Stains: Must be removed with alcohol. so the main point is to alcohol that removes the have your cloth well saturated with the alcohol. Blood Stains: Soak the stains in cold water over night. and rinse thoroughly in clear tepid water. and Delivery Service. feathers and almost anything cleanable. then wash in tepid soap suds and proceed as lor removing blood stains. kid gloves. dip It is the a cotton cloth into the alcohol. and good laundry soap. that must be otherwise your article may be returned to you ruined. Ink Spots: There are many ways of removing ink spots. soak the stain in salts of lemon. or if on white goods. which will clean woolen goods. rubbing until the stain disappears. Grease Spots on any fabric.

Bruises. Boils. Rough Skin. or rub out the spots in equal parts of turpentine and alcohol. Scorch Marks can be effectively removed only by sunshine. then wash in benzine or gasoline. soak the stain in this solution for half an hour. For Chapped or Cracked Hands. Machine will wash. Blisters. rinse in clear tepid water. Phone Crest234 - W ump ^^ Z/^» ^§S3S3Rgg0r Page 90 Prompt Service We Call For and Deliver 13256 Euclid Avenue and 13430 Euclid Avenue . Or you may soak the stain in salts of lemon. Oil: for 24 hours. than to attempt to do the work yourself. removed or the colors clear. Catarrh and Colds in the Head. and one ounce of chloride of lime. Bell Phone 2192 / [J Cleaners for Particular People Edd y r ^*^/S-r T s**n f^k C-5 Cuy. but as this is a very dangerous drug to work with it is usually better to send your garment to a cleaner. times Common Skin all i D rice Zjc rer oox Off D D • ALL FIRST CLASS DRUGGISTS will supply you has dried wash out the ink stains in the milk and rinse as above directed. then wash gently in tepid soap in — suds and rinse in clear tepid water. or to a pint of water add one-fourth pound of sal soda. or turpentine and ammonia. Insect Bites. Tea Stains: Vaseline — Follow directions for removing coffee stains. — and Paint Spots: Rub with vaseline until paint is softened. Piles. all Children's Sore Throat. if the material not rub wet borax over the spot and rinse in clear cold water. Chafes and Croup. and then rinse in clear cold water. Iodine Stains can best be removed with chloroform. Eruptions. if Wash with cold water and a pure white soap. or oxalic acid until the ink has been removed. Spots: — Rub out in kerosene and wash in tepid soap suds and rinse in clear tepid water. Perspiration until the stain is — Stains: Sponge with a weak solution of hydrochloric acid. Burns. Scalds. Rust Stains may be removed by soaking chloric acid a diluted solution of hydro- and rinsing in clear cold water. then wash in gasoline or benzine. — Mildew: Soak in buttermilk spread on grass in sun.Zoa-Phora Balm No Family Supply is Complete Without Known Ointment---within easy reach at this Well Diseases. Cold on the Lungs.

and do not stain the hands. if cotton or silk. 2336 E. to put a small time and additional expense. Boil from one-half to three-quarters of an hour in a bath containing soap. Page if necessary. rugs. when dyeing. thus saving It is advisable. The best plan is to try a small piece of goods fabric first. it is always best to discharge or remove as much of the old color as possible. When several pieces are to be dyed put in the dye bath at the same time. as it is The color of the impossible to dye a dark colored fabric a lighter color. Princt 2906-L . changing the water when times. They are easy and simple to use. Ohio DYEING. table covers and various other articles may be dyed and brightened up. piece of material in with the larger pieces. the probable result. Old and worn curtains. the result will be a green. but keep them moving by stirring occasionally with a wooden stick. and dyed a deeper shade. they should all be otherwise a variety of shades would be the In discharging or removing old colors from material that has been previously dyed. two or three 91 . 7420-R Doan 337-L Res. Prop. where without dyeing they would be useless. in fact making them in many cases. without removing the article itself. Phone. fabric. Unlike the old-time easier to handle than the old-fashioned dry powder whether it be of animal or dyes. instances a few precautions in dyeing you must always follow. appear as good as new and that at but a few cents of expense. the goods may be put back in the same dye bath. Many old or shabby garments can be dyed and renovated and made over and months of service gotten from them. There are in all which you are about to dye has nearly as much effect on the result as the dye you use. If. In taking goods from the dye bath. so that in case the desired shade is not obtained. same shade. and are much cleaner and dyes. so that it may be taken out from time to time. This can be accomplished by boiling the goods. like many other dyes. Peacock Dyes are put up in collapsible tubes. to see if the desired shade is obtained. you have a yellow dress and use a blue dye. and see the result. so that it takes day to wear off. Dyeing Fine Lingerie and Lace Curtains Specialties and Feather Work 2420 Cedar Ave. you can use the same dye for any vegetable nature. for instance. it becomes discolored. When dying. Do not expect to dye a dark piece of goods a light shade. 90th Street Cleveland. Snow Flake Hand Laundry The Cedar Cleaning Works Cleaning. before putting in the article to be dyed. do not throw away the solution until goods are dry.North 776 Cent. ALL WORK GUARANTEED Fannie Hamlet. do not crowd the goods.

as of old color is it tends to The removal very important in dyeing articles out the that have been previously dyed. Raffia. as the newly dyed material the bright and uniform. worn and shabby Clothes. Rugs. old color come discharging when will not PEACOCK DYES For Home Dyeing THE ONE DYE FOR ALL FABRICS For dyeing Cotton. Basketry. Apple Green . FULL DIRECTIONS ON EACH TUBE. owing to article is put into the bath of some of new color. no soap should be used. etc.. Mixed Goods. By the use of Peacock Dyes in the household a great many old. Wools. Feathers. Curtains. making them much easier and cleaner to handle than the old fashioned powder dyes. color from wool.When removing soften the wool. Silks. Linens. may be dyed. Peacock Dyes are put up in collapsible tubes. Tablecovers. Chipped Straw. making them appear as good as new. etc.

. and restores all the original brilliancy of color without injury. We also manufacture CARPET CLEANER. It contains no Lye or Acid. One 25 cent can will clean any common sized rug or carpet without rinsing or removing from the floor. 1120 Prospect Ave. Bedding. a package of regular size. is not a Soap nor a Soap Powder. If you are not now using it. It is invaluable ELWAKO ELWAKO IN It is YOUR LAUNDRY WORK sold by most Grocers. Cents in stamps and we will mail you. sufficient for four family washings. not gray or yellow.. get a If he does not keep it. S. postpaid. delicate texture or color. or perhaps some pieces which one prizes very highly and one desires to have done at home. Page 93 . It is a scientific Washing Compound to be used in connection with any good Laundry Soap in accordance with directions printed on each package. learned by practical experience that it saves the hard labor of rubbing and dispenses with the washboard. or those ot a dainty. and will not injure any fabric. Cleveland. 0.LAUNDERING. and that it makes white clothes WHITE. In this present day of good laundries the hardest and most laborious part of the work can be sent away. ELWAKO Elwako Manufacturing Co. send us Ten package from your Grocer. whether they be Table Linen. with full directions for using. yet there are always numberless small things. You must be most careful in this SETTLES THE WASH-DAY QUESTION NO LYE NO ACID WILL MAKE YOUR CLOTHES CLEAN*WHITE WITHOUT RUBBING SOLD BY GROCERS YOU SHOULD USE ELWAKO Because thousands of other women have in your weekly washing. Curtains or personal apparel. E. which does wonderful work. that articles washed with last twice as long as when rubbed. Ask your grocer for it also.

the boiler with the clothes.'' as it positively contains no lye. that you get on bargain counters.work. sprinkle with tepid is tightly and leave for at one hour. for you can wear your articles out more by rubbing them over a rough washboard than you would wear them out in a week of almost constant service. wrung out of the cold water.— -Starch and hang on so the articles will not Sixth. Then always use a good laundry aid. are worse than worthless. you have a good laundry soap many of the cheaper soaps. where they can get the full benefit of the air and sun. least being sure that the corners are well fastened. — Sort over your clothes. line. Second. and soak white pieces in cold water over night. —Boil two tubs of tepid from 20 to 30 minutes and wrinse thoroughly through one or water and then through bluing water. blow about and tear or become stretched out of shape. Seventh. blended. taking precautions to always keep the garment it form or you may render unsightly by ironing out of shape. . acid or substance of any' kind which will injure the most delicate fabric. sort the and wash the finer first. one which will First. bluing and good starch and if possible have your clothes hanged out of doors. as they will turn your clothes yellow and fade and cause the colors to run. being sure that nothing with if a color in it is put with the all-white clothes. be careful to get good saving of labor. We suggest the use of "Elwako. but over night better. — Put fill one-half of this mixture into a washboiler containing very hot water and Fourth. for a badly laundered article is worthless to a particular or refined woman. in perfect with great care. time and wear on your clothing. and coarser from the finer you have a large number of pieces. North 975 Central 3280-W Prospect Avenue and East 14th Street A Particular Laundry for Particular People Cleveland Ohio Page 94 . — Shave in soap together one small cake of Elwako and one bar of any good laundry three pints of water and boil and stir until they are thoroughly Third. water and roll —When —Iron dry. and it will make your clothes clean and whte with a Further. You should first see that remove the dirt and stains and germs without the unnecessary labor of rubbing. Fifth.

1. Wife. 7. one of the greatest Specialists of his age in the treatment of the diseases of women. Zoa-Phora contains only the best and purest Positively the best ingredients preparation. plain. write us. When you know what Zoa-Phora really is you will be convinced if you are suffering with any form of disease peculiar to women. known to of drugs. Zoa-Phora contains no alcohol positively not one drop is used. therefore. Does not this prove that Zoa-Phora is beyond question all that it is claimed to be? Write today and we will send you a copy of its formula. Zoa-Phora is a vegetable compound. and you will then know to your own satisfaction and benefit just what Zoa-Phora really is. and Grandmother find it the best woman's especially the sexual organism. No expense is spared in modern medical science are used in its its Zoa-Phora is not a secret formula. composition. Our remedies are used by the thinking class of women throughout the United States and we are giving you a few reasons why you are safe in choosing Zoa-Phora in preference to all other remedies and why you are guaranteed satisfaction. and given entire satisfaction. If compounded your druggist has no free box for you have him With the purchase of one Dollar-size bottle of Zoa-Phora the bearer is entitled to a full ten days' special treatment of the Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Cones which the Zoa-Phora Company are supplying the drug trade free of charge for this purpose. It does not make "drug fiends. or any dangerous or 5. a satisfactory. patent medicine— not some dope handed down by an the prescription of Dr. We to cure. give Zoa-Phora a chance to do its good work. Maiden. — of diseases of the market for the treatment 50 years. It is indeed (Woman's Friend). that you have found a treatment perfected to the limit of modern medical discovery. If you want to be cured. Mother. In addition to the splendid tonic effects of Zoa-Phora many women need a good local treatment and in order to encourage the use of our Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones in all cases when needed we are making the following offer of a full Ten Days' Treatment of our Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones (further information on page 79 of this book). opiates. does not make drunkards or a craving for stimulants. tonic to carry them safely through the various changes of womanhood. but Zoa-Phora is 2. Page 95 . rational.— WHAT Is IS ZOA-PHORA? is Zoa-Phora" THIS question "What women seeking asked by intelligent reply. for nearly women. Zoa-Phora is one of the oldest reliable preparations on It has. The following indisputable evidence will convince the most skeptical of the merits and value of Zoa-Phora. Zoa-Phora begins at the seat of your trouble and builds up every part of your body. harmful drugs. just what Zoa-Phora is compounded of. Zoa-Phora does not contain minerals. are not afraid to publish to every woman and to every physician and to the whole world. No opiates or narcotics to suddenly deaden your pain and in time ruin your nervous system. 6. Pengelly. narcotics. It is manufactured only of the best and most valuable roots and herbs known to science. No alcohol in it to Zoa-Phora is excite the nervous system and make you feel fine for a few hours and then leave you weak and exhausted. relieved and cured the very worst forms of Female Trouble and ailments peculiar to women. asked hundreds of times daily honest Before using a treatment a sensible woman wants to know what she is using she is perfectly justified in demanding an honest and straightforward answer. Zoa-Phora is Nature's own restorative and cure. Zoa-Phora 3. 8. Present this coupon to your nearest druggist. inferior preparations Zoa-Phora is not an ordinary ignorant layman. — on the market. 4." as do some of the cheap.

OHIO . and will wear a life time.50 .25 Digestive Tablets Stomach and Liver Pills Anti-Constipation Pills - . 1 - Number Number Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Pile Zoa-Phora (Woman's Friend) 2 - $1. 4706 Detroit Avenue Wilson Drug Co. Standard Drug Stores Purity Drug Co.50 - - .. 15621 Detroit Avenue Ludwig Pharmacy. which means one Zoa-Phora (Woman's Friend) wrapper and your choice of any one of the remedies in Number Two and one from Number Three. 16924 Detroit Avenue Dole.25 - Not One Cent to Pay for the Teaspoons Now or Later Send us the three wrappers or cartons as indicated above.25 . fully warranted. etc.. Adams Street Page 96 TOLEDO.DEC 19 1912 One Set of Silver Teaspoons Free To Users of Zoa-Phora Send us the front of the carton or box from any one of the packages in each of three divisions below arranged and the full set of RANTED TEASPOONS \L SIX TRIPLE PLATED. 18503 Detroit Avenue Go today to your nearest druggist and procure the remedies you need and send the faces from the packages direct to These beautiful teaspoons axe of the favorite Narcissus pattern. Marshall Drug Stores The May Co.50 . full line And in Lakewood and Detroit Avenue the of Zoa-Phora supplies can be procured from Lindsley Drug Co.00 Cold Remedy La Grippe Remedy .. best triple plated. You can procure Zoa-Phora from every including the first class druggist in Cleveland.50 Remedy - Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones Number Balm ----3 - . 11600 Detroit Avenue Alford Crocker.25 . The Zoa-Phora Remedies 1803 Co. FULLY WARwill be sent you by return mail.

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