7dS (Li


^nr^irr^ir^mi
h

ir-^-nr^ir^nr

i

r

|

f==Tsg=ir=sn

S

Coates Sewing and

Dress Making Manual

V—
(T

mmmm

\
s
3 3
3

frmmmm\
3F=IF=q
3

J

PRICE

s

5 3

ONE DOLLAR
KlM*

S

I

w
I
PUBLISHED BY

%#

L. T.

COATES & COMPANY
CLEVELAND, OHIO

^it=^t^ r==ai r====it==^tag=nf==^

j

_i

f=n n=ii„ n

»==i [==v==ir^

A31i88l7 .<gCI.

and the Professional Dressmaker. nor after hours of tiring effort obtain the perfect they insure. for short coats. has Collar Support at If you cannotobtain GREAN SPECIALTIES We supply you dealer and send you will your dealer's. of thoroughly shrunken linen canvas reinforced with hair-cloth and felt. has hooks and eyes. clever pad.. 75c. or nlack percaline. not bust measurement. invisible. back. in transparent envelopes. seamless belt.^ DRESSMAKING SPECIALTIES Without Shoulder Form Long ci loulder Ready] cms Made Pitied "Waist Lining EAL. on new principle. PRACTICAL HELPS FOR THE HOME or Made / . white or black. silk *l DO. Order by exact size of Linolawn. ready for draping. pliable. boned. (1) front for long coat. 5 for 15 cents. greatly improve appearance garment. 75 cents. proof. B— Produce of any shoulder effect desired. D— "GREANET" InvisibleV&isi Foundaiion ] E— Perfect rust F— Very SilkCovered armhole. very helpful in altering or reinforcing fronts. New York Page 1 . HEAVILY COVERED WITH PURE SILK FLOSS. Grean Shoulder Form and Pad 327-329 East 34th Street.50 to $4. 50 cents to $1. "G" Co. A loose-fitting net lining for light. SI. Write Dept. white your waist. silk Corsica. 15 cents a pair. 15 cents a pair. fills in usual hollows around overlapping padded points for shoulders.open front or hack. Carefully manufactured of best materials for correct tailoring of garments in prevailing styles.00 (CSS) Eton front. $3. sealed to insure cleanliness. C— Tailor made. boned with hasted seams ahove. 35 and 50 cents. or lace waists on high. guaranteed collar supports. cotton. A— Perfected. washable. 00. You cannot make anyone of these essentials for anywhere near the price. direct or through a reliable a catalogue oj other dressmaking helps. shaped. (new). chiffon..00. Black or white. lias hooks and eyes. if Money you are not satisfied. Use one or all and fit Coat Fronls \ Save Time. Work and Worry almost finished lining for tight-fitting waists. write us. Designed for the trade and now sold in leading Dry Goods Stores everywhere. 3 for 10 cents. Bray. Money.

4.— INTRODUCTION 2.— Milliner's Fold 39..— Hem Stitch 17.- — Sewing on Buttons — Loops — Darning — Stoting — Patching — Overhand Patch" — Bands and Folds . Cleveland.- 12 13 13 13 — Cording — Seams 42. 31. .— Shirring 56.—TO HOLD THE GOODS 3. GUjrato Nutnttan IpII Eaat 541 13TB East mtlf fctrwt COATES SEWING AND DRESS MAKING MANUAL Published by Coates Advertising Agency.— Button Hole Stitch 25. Emblems and Monograms — Eyelets — —To and Eyelet Embroidery 14 16 16 16 16 17 17 18 54.— Catch Stitch 12. 4. 14. 3.— Outline Stitch 8.— Cross Stitch 18. 41. 57. (£.— Slant 6.— PLAIN AND FANCY STITCHES..'.— Fagot Stitch 13. 35. Chevrons. 47. 8 8 9 10 10 10 11 11 11 43. -WORKING INSTRUCTIONS. 60.— Cable Stitch 10. 49. Ohio CONTENTS 1. 34. 27 28 28 28 29 Copyright 1912 by Lydia Trattles Coates Page 2 .— Seed Stitch 1 5. 26. Stays and Collar — Putting Supports — Marking of Linen and Underwear — Embroidery Designs in in .. 27. 36.— Punch Work 16.'.— Blanket Stitch 24. 44.— Braiding 28.— Welt Seam — Lapped Seam — French Seam — Hemming —To Hem Corners — Damask Hem 46.'.'. 5. . Make Buttonholes 20 — ery Embroidery — Setting on Lace or and Eyes — Sewing Hooks 27.— Couch Stitch 1 1. 23. 50. EmIS.— Rolled 53. Lesson 29.— Solid Embroidery 21. — Knot —Running Stitch — Basting — Backstitch — Overcasting Stitch 6 6 7 7 7 33. Page 5 6 30.— Felled Seam — Bound Seam — Strap Seam 45.. 48. 52.— Double Folds 38. Sewing on Lace or Embroid58.— Damask Stitch 16.— Tucks and Pleats 55. 62. — Facings — Gathering Hem 26 26 26 26 27 27 22. . 2. Lesson 1 .— Piping 40.— French Knots 14.- 61.—Ruffles 26. .— Long and Short Stitch 20.IttHtntfittfltt —loral Beginners' Voices Carefully Built and Trained lira.. 32.— Chain Stitch 9.— Feather Stitch 19.. 59. ".—Satin Stitch (French broidery) 8 37. and Overhanding 7 7.— Embroidery Scallops. Page 21 21 21 . 22 22 23 24 24 24 24 24 24 24 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 51.

— Lesson — Fitting and Alterations.— Night Gowns — Combination Undergarments. 85. 16. 110. Boston Dr. 88. 79.— SPONGING. 93.- —Jackets 76 76 78 79 80 81 81 PRESS50 50 51- — Sponging -Pressing 98.— Making of Gowns 92. Curry. 82 83 83 84 85 85 . 100.— LAUNDERING 3 88 91 93 86 86 87 93 92 94 Page . Lesson " " 102. (A) — The Well Groomed Woman. 65.— Girl's School Dress 103.— Children's Underwear Outfit. — Maternity Corsets —Maternity Gowns — Maternity Skirts GIRLS' SUPPLIES. 86. 57 58 60 61 61 62 63 64 64 —Rompers Coats 15. 66.Inatruflton Expression Literature Interpretation Pantomime Harmonic Training Art of Play Writing and Criticism iFlomtrp Hartlja itaaett (Swr^r) Graduate of Harroff School of Expression. 75.— Petticoats — Skirts and Underwear Without Plackets — Dressing Sacques (F) (G) " 78.. 72 74 75 75 7. —The Young Lady's Dresses — Maternity Outfit Wardrobe 9. 89.— Sleeves 70. — Street.— High Collars 67. 83. Page 64 65 66 66 67 67 67 68 68 68 69 70 71 71 84. — Children's 105.— Pockets Traveling Skirts and Busi- 46 47 47 96.— Aprons — — Lingerie Waists — Housekeeping Gowns — Evening and Dinner Gowns.— Tailored Collars 68. . Cuffs and Lap Closings 72. Lesson 97.— CUTTING.—THE WELL GROOMED WOMAN. Cleveland and Graduate of School of Expression. (D)— Millinery (E) — Lingerie 76. Cutting 53 —CHILDREN'S CLOTHES. SHRINKING ING.— SCHOOL Lesson " " 14 101.. ness 72- 90... — AND 48 48 49 MATERNITY OUTFIT. —Boning 38 40 41 — Shirt Waist Supporter — Rain Coat and Waterproof Garments Lesson — Corset Covers — Drawers " — Chemise " 81. — Making of Dinner Gowns.— COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS SPECIFIC WORK Lesson — Plackets —Belts and Bands —Yoke and Peplums (K) (L) 63. Lesson Lesson 74. 99.— DYEING 18.— Shirt Waist Sleeves 71.— FITTING AND ALTERATIONS. 8.5410.— Coat Sleeve 73.— Shirt Waists 91. — Children's 136. 80.— INFANT'S OUTFIT Lesson — Making the Infant's " 107..— NECESSARY (A) MAKING ACCESSORIES (B)—Threads (C)— Sewing Thread (D) (E) SEWING AND Page DRESS30 30 30 31 313431 33 — Sewing Machine (F)— Linings (G)— Patterns — Embroidery Thread Hooks and Eyes (H)— Tape (I)— Dress (J) 35 35 Shields 39- 36 37 —Dress Form —Dress Trimmings 6. Costumes and Coats 77- 95. 94. 64. (B) — Scientific Beauty Culture 5811.— Girl's -Gowns 104. 77.—Turn Down Collars 69. and Shrinking 13. FOR 42 42 43 44 45 45 43- Kimonas 87. President Bell Doan 1369-R 9608 Hough Avenue CONTENTS 5.— MILADY'S WORDROBE (A) — Corsets (B)— Sanitary Belts (C) — Sanitary Skirt Protectors.— Dress 12..— CLEANING 17. 82.

(Tape) Sons Co. 31. Restaurant Co. (Sleeve Initials) Reis Initial Co. Cleveland Credit Clothing Co Cleveland Dress Trimming Co College of Science (Acme) Connelly Co. 76. 4 P. T. H. cures.. Pneumatic Form Co. L. Pictoral Pictorial J. & C. (Public Stenographer). (Dunham's Specific) Long. * Call or Send 10 Cents for Postage. (Elwako Laundry Aid) Euclid Cafetiere (Lunch Club) Farr.. (Embroidery Silk) Belding Bros. Mfg. or are any of your family suffering from disease? If so. but as and setting of the sun.. if you want pREE— Books on Health. E. (Funeral Director). The process is natural and very simple. Review Co.. Van Gorder (Havanco Mending Tissue) Haserot Co. Abbie E. (Piano Instruction) 58 20 60 93 42 73 3 ' Co G.. Pioneer Mfg.. (Energine Shoe Dressing) Devoe. Wright. G. performs which border on miracles. No. H. Stroud. Thus writes Are you suffering from Rheumatism. 69 63 16 76 91 15 8. infallible as the daily rising Investigate. & Co. Young Women's Zoa Phora Co Christian 57.. (Ganesh Toilet Preparation) A. Chester (Vocal Instruction). E. 29 21 34 23 12 17 7 Arbor Tea Shop Art Pleating Shoppe Baird Bros. (Senora Coffee) 24 22 24 Wm. Stomach Trouble. The May.. (Sewing Silk) Belding Bros.. even if all else has failed. ("Hair Vim") Snow Flake Laundry Shaver. Mrs. Sanche's Oxydonor's and by the use of it as directed. Frank (Dentist) Electra Pure Water Co. Priestley. Sanche for the purpose of healing the sick. Joseph. (Real Estate) Conover. (Sanitary Protectors) American Textile Mfg. (Embroidery Initials) 74 50 39 65 94 14 29 28 18 19 71 Richardson Silk Facial College Elwako Mfg. Nervousness. Ohio Office Furniture Co 91 5 Oxydonar Parrish. 13.OXYDONOR "This wonderful little appliance. 64 38 66 32 36 62 83 96 Page 4 .. C.. R. 95.. Mrs. (Dust Bright) 59 63 10 Page Hawley Restaurant Henke Furniture Co Hexter's Lining Store Ideal Faucet Syringe Co Interstate Drug Co. Grean Shoulder Form and Pad Grean Dress Making Specialties Grean Long Coat Front Foundation Grean Short Coat Front Foundation Grean's "Greanet" Grean Fitted Waist Lining Grean Coat Collars Fassett. The C. Association 7. Ellen C. Co. N. Mandarin. (Monarch Polish) Basch. invented by Dr. 55. C. Spinal Trouble. (Wrinkle Eradicators) 64 26 61 64 5 84 64 52 80 40 56 56 33 2 5 31 8 34 25. Co.. (Domestic Cleaner) Swalley's Credit Store Telling Co. Dr. (Ice Cream) Universal Dry Cleansing Co Victor Insect Exterminating Co 43 75 & Florence Martha (Expression) Frederick Piano Co Fries & Schuele Fulton. & C. Co. B. (Morlene) Korach. you will be restored to health. (Katharos) Ellsworth Public Hand Laundry Reis Initial Co.. (Embroidery Scallops) Reis Initial Co. Co. Co. F. W.. T." Edward Rigby of Lisbon. (Woven Names) Reis Initial Co. Hall. & (Shino) (Dress Form) Co. Diabetes. Co. (Sewing Machine Supplies) Studio (Art Work) Cedar Cleaning Works Chandler. Co. by all means secure one of Dr. . E. ' . (Cravenette) 60 88 9 Dye) Dowd. E. (Linings) Belle Vernon Dairy Co Berner's Art Store Boston Dry Goods Co B. Miller. Mrs. (Book and Art Exchange). Maud De Long (Dermatologist) Smith Carriage & Auto Co Smith Chemical Co. (Embroidery Catalog)... Oxydonor will do it. Co. Co. & P. Rosenblum Clothing Co Sanar Remedy Co (Attorneys at Law) Shop of Kimonas and Art Laces Skalla. etc. Wm. & & Sons Co. Ohio. & Co Lawson School of Music Lickes Drug Co. 30. A. Raynolds Co. M. David (Shirtwaist Belts) Battle Creek Sanitarium Food Co Belding Bros. 68 9 72 41 46 54 37 11 Review Co. Miss L.. 337 Old Arcade INDEX TO ADVERTISERS Page Adair. (Fashion Book) B. Main 730 Ohio Agency. (Osteopathic Physician) Morehouse Co Noteman. (Dentist) Bryson Co. 6 44 60 47 1 Vacuum 20 55 89 13 77 78 54 35 45 48 55 Grean Arm Pad Grean Fitted Belt Griffith Warner Hat Shoppe Warren Featherbone Co White Sewing Machine Co Wilson Dress Hook Co Wright. Margaret B. Mrs. health. (Peacock Carlton Monks. Phone. (Sanitary Belt). Berthe (Corsets) 86 19 53 58 51 II May Co. (Manicuring and Chiropody).. F. (Naiad Dress Shield) Continental Casualty Co Creme de Luxe Cummer Products Co.

THE OHIO OFFICE Chandler Central 332 1-K Main 1368 FURNITURE Bell. Ohio 429 The Arcade North 1450 I. INTRODUCTION. trimmings. laboritheir — ous piece of drudgery. Sewing is an art and the woman who clothes herself with an eye to bringing out the possibilities of her grace and beauty and best points of individuality. L. E. Quigley Desks Chairs Armor-Clad Steel Furniture Cuspidors and other Office Furniture Murphy & Gunlocke Miss L. etc. simple and comprehensible set of Sewing and Dress Making Lessons have been compiled without waste of words or unnecessary repetitions.Public Stenographer Duplicating Filing Devices Tables. Many women go garments made or are forced to wear unbecoming. We have made the system as brief and as easy as possible and by following faithfully the instructions and always turning to the lessons designated you will find that you have a reliable guide to the making of every essential garment for your wardrobe. without as complete a wardrobe as they would like to have or pay out more money than they feel that they should spare to get .. LAXATIVE BRAN BISCUITS "The samples you gave do the work ine were delicious" BATTLE CREEK SANITARIUM FOOD Page 5 CO. On the other hand if they know just how to go ahead and have each step made plain for them to follow they could add many beautiful garments to To be sure much that is very helpful their wardrobe at a very small cost. S. 1145 Prospect Ave.. 111-112 Old Arcade . For this reason this plain. has been written on the subject of sewing and many of our best magazines have given us invaluable information. CO. as the means of presenting to the world her ideal of thought. non-individual clothes simply because they do not know exactly how to cut and fit and make and finish the articles of their apparel and without complete instructions before them do not feel like risking the time and the material in experimenting. and hiding any possible defects of her contour or carriage will work as an artist. Thus dressmaking will become an Art and a Science and a pleasure instead of a nerveracking. Cleveland. but many women do not preserve these periodicals or have not the time to wade through all the other literature and sometimes a labyrinth of instructions to find out the system of properly cutting out and putting together and finishing a dress or suit or piece of underwear or perhaps doing up a piece of household sewing. using herself as the model and her materials..

(3) (4) Lesson Hemstitch. .— stitches through the cloth should It will be of exact and equal length. be in constant use for seams on light etc. Knots should never be visible in any sewing except in basting. Lesson 5. CHAPTER PLAIN.. Always take stitch under the hem or seam to hide knot but in open space where this is not possible fasten thread by taking two or three stitches over each other or — KNOT. The Proof of the Pudding is in the Eating The Proof of "Frederick Service" In the Trying is Every Record Every Victrola $15.CHAPTER III.oOOCNO''. W. and do not form the bad habit of pinning the work to your skirts and then humping over to do it or winding seams over the forefinger of your left hand. Always hold the goods in a position so the stitches are taken toward you. FANCY Lesson 1. but learn and practice holding and doing your work properly and sitting erect. IV. FREDERICK PIANO CO.— RUNNING STITCH. Running 2. Try Our Superior Service Today. -. crumble it nor yet so loosely that the stitches are taken unevenly. left hand. gathering. by backstitching (Lesson 4). Basting Stitch. F. Lesson Stitch.—Thread AND ORNAMENTAL STITCHES. leaving the right hand Never hold the work so as to crush and free with which to do the stitches. . (1) (2) Slant Stitch. French seams. hemming of fragile garments. 3. 1612 EUCLID AVENUE Page 6 . materials..$200 Sound Proof Demonstrating Parlors Experienced Salesmen.->. needle with proper sized thread and hold in Wind thread once over forefinger of right hand and pull tightly. The Lesson 2. hold the work firmly in the left hand. Sit up straight. Lesson 17. TO HOLD THE GOODS. .

Lesson 3. practical and artistic manner.Sewing Millinery Apply to the Cookery Dining Room Service Dietetics Dressmaking Tailoring Shirt Waist Young Women's Christian Association Prospect Avenue and East 18th Cleveland. Insert the needle under the fold. Voice Culture of both the singing and speaking voice a specialty. then take a short back stitch back on the upper side and a long stitch forward on the under side. (See cut 1. —BASTING.—Take a few running stitches (see Lesson 2). using two or three stitches to hold (never knot under a fold). Lesson 4. Ohio All branches of Music and Dramatic Art taught in a thorough. varying the distance between stitches according to the quality and thickness The two important features of perfect overcasting or overof the material. handing are to have needle point at exact depth and be exact distance between each stitch.— Baste material with edges exactly even or if single trim smooth and even. Ohio West Side Branch Franyin and West 32nd Home Nursing Home Making Chafing Dish St. Begin next stitch exactly where last stitch left off on upper side of sewing (see cut 1).— SLANT STITCH.—The Lesson 5. The half back stitch is taken half way back between the space of where the thread is drawn through and where the stitch leaves off on the upper side. CIk Cawson School of music and Other Tine 10507 Superior Avenue Cleveland. Use Slant Stitch (see Lesson 5).— OVERCASTING AND OVERHANDING. Beginners or Advanced Pupils Private or Class Lessons Day or Evening Jim Best Instruction Moderate Prices Page 7 .— Begin at the right and work toward the left. Hold your goods with the edges which you are sewing on toward you. Point the needle toward the left shoulder and pass it through a few folds of the material and a few threads of the fold. This is one of the most particular lessons in sewing as every stitch must be exactly the same in height and distance apart. From under side draw needle through cloth exact depth to be overcasted or overhanded and take stitch over and through twice to hold firmly. Lesson 6. Making Trade Class Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister Cooking fundamental principle of all good fitting and adjusting lies in the proper basting. page 6). Lay your cloth perfectly in place and then fasten by taking even or uneven running stitches through the material as in cut. progressive.— BACKSTITCH.

If and we will BELDING BROS. Belding's teed fast dve. except that drawn through at the side.— The the cable as the chain stitch needle is made almost exactly Lesson 8). & CO.American STITCH. guaranus. hold down Draw you.— CABLE STITCH. Lesson 9." write tell you where it can be obtained.— Start have left New York at City Lesson 8. holding your work with the needle pointing toward you and always keeping the thread on the same needle. your dealer does not carry "Belding's. New Process Embroidery Silk and every conceivable shade. half stitch is (see way back the center.— Take even stitches. side of the Take each stitch back two threads on the precedtightly. in eight different twists.— OUTLINE T TTVT/^O French . 528 Broadway STITCH.Have You Tried T^T lriLLlllVJO ICECREAM? Lesson 7. thread under thumb form loop. instead of at Page 8 .— CHAIN the top of your design and always your needle to point a towards needle through material. take a short stitch through the material. bringing needle through one stitch distance ahead and proceed as before. of the previous stitch. ing stitch and draw rather yet not enough to wrinkle the goods.

having the stitches in each row fall between those of the opposite row. N. Hold the threads in place with your left hand and fasten them to the material with small stitches on the right side. Satin. by mail. —'Couching thread at is made by apart laying straight lines equal distances across the design. Seed. Price 10 cents. or The May Co. many DOILIES. Are all illustrated. 15 cents THE PICTORIAL REVIEW COMPANY THE PICTORIAL REVIEW BUILDING 222 West 39th Street. profusely illustrated and contains designs for all the various kinds of embroideries. either the These may be obtained Transfer or Perforated Patterns Purchase a copy today at any newsdealer. —COUCH of STITCH. The "New" Pictorial Review Embroidery Catalog is filled with ideas and suggestions of interest to any It is woman who em- broiders or does fancy work.Lesson 10. SUITS. Page 9 . SKIRT PANELS. Underin not forgetting the exquisite designs for wear. Send 20 cents for a sample of this work begun on special and one large needles. such as Eyelet. Pictorial Fully explained and illustrated in linen. New The New of the Review Embroidery Catalog. New York. BELTS. Etc. HAND BAGS. and Infants' and Children's Wear. COSTUMES. Solid and Outline Including numerous designs for the popular Braid Work and the Punched Embroidery. SHIRT WAISTS. Y. Add 15 cents for The New Pictorial Review Embroidery Catalog.

. .-::.

pictures in Book ana Art exchange 31 Taylor Arcade Monogram Work. insert the to as many threads as are desired (always the same number). Cleveland. 358 The Arcade SICKNESS OR AN ACCIDENT MAY COME TOMORROW ACT TODAY — Page 11 . unexpected piece of bad luck comes. and draw the needle through to the right of the group and take a short stitch in the fold (See cut No.Art We do stencil Work oil. pastel or crayon. Schofield Bldg. Come in 2357 -W. 1.—The back seed stitch is made by taking small stitches covering the leaf or petals of a design or in monogram. also teach work. Anniversary.— Draw the required number of threads Hold the hem and turn hem and baste exactly below last thread drawn. water-color. FRAMING A SPECIALTY.— HEMSTITCHING. laid draw through in the number of threads have been opposite direction at even distances apart another set of threads. Congratulations for Birth Carlton Studio 1430 Announcements and other special occasions. We insure both Men and Women. LONG teach or paint to order. High Grade Stationery. for exact position of needle). W. At the place where the threads cross catch to thread desired down with the cross stitch.E.Mgr. Dainty Cards. Be positively and safely provided for by the largest Health and Accident Insurance Company in the world. wrong side and bring the through pattern to carrying When the be worked. Lesson Protect -Yourself .— SEED STITCH. group from three toward you.Watt. THE ELLEN and C. needle under and through the hem..Breadwinner Then when the unforseen. page 6. Birthday. china decorating and firing. Wedding.— Fasten up the thread on right side.and .the . stitches The rows must be evenly spaced and the each row falling midway between those of the rows at either side of them. and ask us to tell you today and let us explain or call up CENTRAL WHAT FIVE CENTS PER DAY WILL DO FOR YOU. Paints for china 10c and 15c each. (See Lesson 11. of the hem. Lesson 15. O. your cash income does not stop just when you most need it. Lesson 14.) 16.— DAMASK needle across STITCH. CONTINENTAL CASUALTY CO.

therefore we want every person afflicted with Goitre and similar troubles to know that there is a remedy which is really a success in If 92% of all cases. They should know about if he wants your trade. 50 and we will promptly deliver a full size package containing a sufficient quantity for an ordinary treatment of 30 days. no matter tions is unsightly and disagreeable. you are not tell them afflicted but of Morlene. Your druggist can supply you MANUFACTURED ONLY BY The Interstate Drug Company 12 Cleveland. Tumors. to say the least. If he fails send us SI. Morlene is not an experiment. so it is always best to get rid of any enlargements about the throat whether they be Goitre. the breathing or the blood flow to and from the brain. are. Thick Neck or Goitre by Tumors and for the sake of a better appearance the Double Chin. to avoid will cure any case of Goitre. its effectiveness has been thoroughly proven. we will say that in every dangerous and disagree92% of all cases. Inflammations The above statement has been so thoroughly proven that we are almost tempted to say Morlene However. Ohio Page . and it often produces dangerous condiaffecting the eyes.Lesson 17. GOITRE will disappear when treated with MORLENE Also Thick Neck. Enlarged Joints.— CROSS is STITCH. possible misrepresentation case Morlene relieves the able conditions accompanying Goitre and gives entire satisfaction to how bad or how long standing. have relatives or friends who it.— The cross stitch simply bringing one stitch across the angle of the other. Double Chin.

Thread Cast-off (it's exclusively White) and the difficulty vanished as if DON'T NEGLECT YOUR HOME by magic. Let us hear from you. are at your service. It is the method endorsed by the Government experts of all nations. (See cut). and you can imagine the annoyance it has caused the operator. and recommended by the State Medical authorities as being the only absolute remedy known to Science. is The double feather or briar stitch is made by taking two stitches to the right of one while the triple feather stitch right and three to the left. CLEVELAND. There's no time like the present to look the White over. ONLY No powder dust left — No poison— No bad odors. Penetrates through plastering. long and short stitch in successive rows until the design entirely filled .— FEATHER tailor's STITCH— BRIAR STITCH. mice. and two stitches to the left. insects. Knot bring thread. It should be fumigated by our method once a year it will be clean and healthful. bring needle through to right side. Churches and Stores of all germs. to say nothing of the loss of time in trying to get the machine to work right. rs^J Lesson 20. instead made by taking three stitches to the Lesson 19. —then Boats. Talk about trouble why. etc. Hotels. left line. bedding. We rid Boats. White Sewing Machine Co. hold thread take a short stitch through and to the right side of down with the mark or thumb. etc. 426 PROSPECT Both Phones Victor Insect 351 The Arcade Exterminating Co. Warehouses. with pencil or Lesson 18. rats.— Is Page 13 made by using is the in. (see Lesson except that one stitch in is taken. manufacturers of Rotary machines have had a world of trouble with the thread tangling in the shuttle race. O.—LONG AND SHORT STITCH — stitch Follow exact instructions as slant 5). first on the right then on the left. thread stitch down directly on downward to left the of the mark or mark line and hold with thumb and take short or line and repeat taking stitch.— Mark thread along the line chalk or run a colored to be followed. exclusively on the C. Our experts Our methods are used & B. Happily the White experts came to the rescue with this remarkable device THREAD CAST-OFF THE White Rotary Thread machine — SANITATION HEALTH HAPPINESS Our method is of fumigation and insect extermination absolutely the most up-to-date and efficient method in use. one-half the dis- tance depth as the succeeding one.— SOLID EMBROIDERY.— the the only is equipped with a Cast-off. It's just another instance of White superiority. upholstered furniture.

and work over with That's all. page IS. desired tone of expressive charm— an indication of character— the "intangible something" of which a woman can well be proud. LEARN AX OUR EXPENSE How easily the most inexperienced sewer can create perfectly stunning effects in embroidery with the new Reis Gumbac Foundations Scallops. boilings and ironings that the article on which they are embroidered will withstand. Nor will they discolor or harm the finest fabric.— (French Embroidery)— The or Initials.— EMBROIDERY SCALLOP STITCH.Lesson 21. Just moisten the back and stick on. new Sold at the Art Counter of Any Department Store Reis Initials. Underlaying and Basting difficulties eliminated. we guarantee that they will retain their shape and appearance through all the washings. Remarkable as it may seem. 620 Broadway. Reis Gumbac Foundations are not made of ordinary paper or even papier mache. REIS' FOUNDATION Letters and Scallops They add that much help to make your wearing apparel and household linen distinctively rich.— SATIN STITCH. sample strips of scallops and samples of the Reis Letters in your initial. The material in their composition is of European origin. Hold thread under left thumb forming loop. and in satin stitch is the stitch taken straight across from one edge to the other of the design or taken on a slant from one edge to the opposite edge. Reis' Letters and Scallops make embroidering simply delightful with the Stamping. of embroidery their attractiveness. yards REIS FOUNDATION LETTERS Are made Script in three styles: Harmonizing colors gramrr. New York Page 14 . booklets. the scallops or embroidered edge vary according to the Often the depths of pattern or design to be worked and the outline must be very carefully followed." 1J 4 Gumbac Scallops come in six styles— 26 patterns. shows the exact position of the needle. and retail at a uniform price of 10c per card of to the small sizes and S of a yard to the large. especially silk will add to when working mono- Block Old English — easily accomplished 2-cent by interlacing Send us your name. They are very simple. Draw needle through loop and repeat taking every stitch very closely together so no gap appears between the stitches. silk or cotton. Take stitch through material depth desired with needle pointing downward.ed des'gns the letters.— Fasten thread by running and back stitches. If you can thread a needle you can successfully use them. The cut shown in Lesson 25. You will use the Satin Stitch in making in the Chevrons. a name of a dealer in your city stamp and the who would most you in re- likely handle our goods. We will send turn our In Sizes from % inch to 10 Inches. many other designs so much vogue at the present time. Lesson22. Our standing offer is as follows: "We Will Pay for Any Garment Injured Gumbac Foundations Through Washing or Re!s by Reis Ironing.

THE B. old. Then you must pad your scallops with the chain stitch using a good filling cotton. 15 STROUD CO. The old method is to buy a transfer pattern or hire the stamping done. Upholstery. 510 The Arcade Page Cleveland. etc. E. or come to our office. With these attachments you have a cleaner with every advantage of an electric machine at a little greater cost than the best Bissell Carpet Sweeper. is The DOMESTIC last a lifetime. is only Vacuum Cleaner with Full Ball-Bearings and a BaliBearing Adjustable Roller under the suction the plate for light or The DOMESTIC heavy cleaning. D OMESTIC VACUUM C LEANER Dirt and Dust are a Constant Menace to Your Home A of large percent of our contagious dis- eases are carried into the home by reason germ laden dust. & C. The DOMESTIC Hand Cleaner is as powerful as the best portable electric. Then a running stitch must be very carefully taken at the exact line desired to indicate the depth. pleasant and easy way. H.THE OLD WAY TO EMBROIDER SCALLOPS. Ohio . cabinet built and will the only hand cleaner The DOMESTIC is with attachments for cleaning Mattresses. Lesson 22. tedious and laborious manner of embroidering scallops new. For free demonstration phone Main 2463. or Central 8258 K. When your foundation is completed then embroider according to embroidery scallop is is There and there an a stitch.

Make stitches very even and rather tight and then shape perfectly with . Then fastening your thread on the under side of the material. All you need to do is to moisten the scallop. — Lesson 24. TRIMMING.— Eyelets may be round. oval. By needle courtesy of Pictorial Review Co.AUTOMOBILE PAINTING. This eliminates all the drudgery of stamping your design and all the filling-in work and gives a much more desirable effect than you can possibly obtain by the ordinary methods. AND Set the needle for each stitch just outside the cotton outline stitch and draw the point through the stilettoed opening or set the needle through the opening. taking care to always have the stitches exactly the same distance apart and exactly the same height. Lesson 25. Hold thread under left thumb forming loop take stitch depth desired with needle pointing downward. Run a cotton thread around the outlines with very small running stitches to hold the form. except that in embroidery the point of the needle is toward the edge while in buttonholeing the point of the needle is toward the cloth. NEAR CORNER OF EUCLID AVENUE Smith Carriage $ Auto Co. then punch with a stiletto. To save time and energy and to insure satisfactory results with your work.— BLANKET STITCH. Then send the needle down in the first dot of the second row and bring it up in the second dot of the first row. The blanket stitch is the same as the buttonhole stitch only each stitch is made instead of very close together as the buttonhole stitch is done.—The Buttonhole stitch and the Embroidery Scollop stitch are done exactly the same (see Lesson 22).— BUTTONHOLE STITCH.— PUNCHED used for WORK. Lesson 23. See cut of Lesson 25.— Begin by fastening thread by using running and back stitch.— Thread the long special and knot it at the eye.the stiletto. press down with your hand and work over with the stitch taught you in Lesson 22. Smith. begin work in the upper left-hand corner of the design. L. Bring up the the work. Either manner is correct. Pass down needle dot of the dot of the second row. 1911 Cars Remodeled with Fore Doors and Repainted to Resemble 1912 Models Telephone--East S40 1970 EAST 66TH STREET. REMODELING AND REPAIRING. Proprietor THE NEW WAY TO EMBROIDER SCALLOPS. procure the necessary length of Reis Foundation Gumbac Scallops. row. F. drawing needle through loop. send it down in the first up again in the first dot of the first row and draw the thread slightly to pull the goods together. and repeat. bringthe ing the point just outside the outline stitch. for exact position of needle. Lesson 26. bring in first the first it Page 16 . a small distance apart. which can be embroidered over without any of the preliminary work explained. oblong or pointed.— EYELETS EYELET EMBROIDERY.

i Lesson 27. On heavy goods such as velvet. cord. Braiding Ladies'. There infinite variety of beautiful designs and patterns now in vogue for is an Those braiding. bring up through the second dot of the first row. bias tubing or fine embroidery or the design can be followed with the outline or chain stitch. The stitch used to sew on the braid is a short stitch on the right side of the For materials of net. chiffon braid or cord and a long stitch on the back. It can be developed with plain braid. (Braiding and Embroidering) W. so the plainest or the most fastidious tastes can be satisfied._l-Mi 1^- H I L^. or marquisette a dull silver or fine gold or soft silk cord put on with button The stamping of hole couching makes a most beautiful border or trimming. CLEVELAND. you have done all of the work in one direction. Coats and Blouses the latest. To secure the most attractive effect the braid should be sewed on the edge so that it will stand up on the material. FOURTH STREET. these patterns for braiding must be most carefully done and the design followed exceedingly accurately in order to produce a satisfactory effect. turn the naterial and repeat the stitch at right angles to the first set of stitches. Braiding is most suitable and effective for a border or a trimming for waists.li l —^— Page 17 . Bring your work to us or phone and we will tell us up by either you what we can do for you. Misses' Braided in and Children's Dresses. so that the effect will be one of little squares. of your We also make buttons own call material in all styles. draw the thread a bit. not having the time or the inclination to do this work for themselves can make up their garment and then have experienced braiders neatly and carefully carry out your ideas in any simple or elaborate design which you may select.^ through the second dot of the second row. soutache. suits. OHIO m^m j i ——— jj i .— BRAIDING. gowns. pass down through the second dot of When the second row and bring up again in the third dot of the first row. evening wraps or children's dresses and can be used on any material. most artistic and approved designs. Joseph Korach 1258 ^—^— & Company II. serge or linen a braid or cord the color of the material should be used. Suits.

cutting the paper or crinoline away as soon as finOr you may embroider the chevished. or crinoline or stiff lessons on embroidery for the monogram work. will supply you with Reis Foundation Letters for any desired purpose Ask Q t the needlework department Lesson 28. such as lingerie. Sold at the needlework department of every department and dry goods store or send for our illustrated bcok on embroidering and samples in your initials. boys' suits. table covers. You can either get the Reis emblems. Page 18 . and a number of purposes which present them- and children always delight in an emblem or chevron on their arm. your monograms or We have plain and suitable for fancy letters every need of embroidery linen. CHEVRONS AND EMBLEMS. chevrons and monogram foundations and selves work over them with the Lesson 21). REIS 630 ASHABLE LETTERS •«amo r M«»OOIf)EBV BROADWAY NEW YORK The Morehouse Co.Use Reis Foundation Letters for initials. Made in three styles-— Old English— Script— Block— sizes ^g inch to 10 inches. etc. rons and monograms on a separate piece See of broadcloth or linen.— MONOGRAMS. work bags. and sew on. Etc. while grown ups always appreciate their monogram neatly worked on their garments. household handkerchiefs. satin stitch (see you can stamp them on paper and baste them on the goods and embroider. Chevrons and emblems are very appropriate for sailor suits.

and Six Skeins of Richardson's Mercerized Cotton Floss for BERNER'S ART STORE Arcade Building oniy 25 cents Page Cleveland 19 :: Ohio TOUR CHOICE OF TWELVE DESIGNS . This extraordinary offer is made to convince every woman of the superiority Richardson's Grand Prize Wash Embroidery Silk Why your home with attractive and not beautify effective pillows when the opportunity is offered? We will give you tire this en- Pillow Outfit including 1 Pillow Top — either oblong or square Every woman wants these attractive pillows and also knows the true value of —tinted on Aberdeen Crash. Richardson's 1 Back for Pillow 1 Grand Prize Grecian Floss On sale at Diagram Lesson arrangement of stitches — showing and color scheme.— This Beautiful Pillow FREE f All we ask is that you buy 6 skeins of Grand Prize Wash Embroidery Silk Richardson's or trated lesson for ZDC and a The fully illusPillow Top and Back are absolutely FREE.

IS in which respect it is very unlike spring water. THE BOTTLES ARE STERILIZED and rinsed with Katharos before being filled. The volume of sickness traceable to SPRINGS is of vast proportions. Cleveland. Ohio Page 20 .— Unless you have tested your skill in making buttonholes it will be wise for you to practice until you are in a fair way to feel confidence in your ability. The Purest Water Sold in Cleveland ( Bacterial Tests Abundantly Prove the Truth of this Statement ) THE PROCESS OF PURIFICATION necessary for the production of Katharos is the most advanced known to science. KATHAROS HAS LIFE AND SPARKLE. 2035 East 18th Street Cent. Women.— TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES. in the exact place you desire it. otherwise you may ruin your garment. Clothes of the BETTER SORT of Clothing. TERMS— $1. Distinction and Style. First mark the exact length of buttonhole you desire. KATHAROS KATHAROS due to the liberation of gas during the electrolytic action. Springs situated in proximity to thickly populated districts are peculiarly liable to sudden contamination. It contains enough of the minerals and salts to make it the most healthful of drinking waters. PURE ALWAYS PURE— CONTAMINATED h°nes : N ^r t 34 6 The Electra Pure Water Co. then run a thread around the space you intend to cut. IS AS AS DISTILLED WATER. 3241-W Cleveland. Quality.00 I'M THE MAN That'll Always Give You Down. Pay as you can spare it.Clothes of Quality for Men. but is much more palatable and tonic in its qualities. A SQUARE DEAL CWALLEY'S CREDIT STORE ^"^ 424 Euclid Ave. which is best described as being pure until it is declared impure. Ohio Lesson 29. over cast the edges then work with the button hole stitch (as per Lesson 24). NOTHING BENEFICIAL IS REMOVED by the process of purification. Boys and Children ON CREDIT HERE you'll find the NEW. None of the tonic values are lost. then cut straight the slit to be worked. at prices absolutely as low as at any cash store. the DIFFERENT.

allowing the eye of the needle to pass under first. Fasten your thread with the over and over stitch. then fasten well on under side. as it should match in color and quality. but in mending most materials. DARNING. Place button directly over mark or pin and bring up thread through holes of the buttons.— Have button hole completed first. cor. In mending stockings a darning ball may be used. Fasten the thread well on the under side by several over and over stitches. Then begin at the bottom of the threads and insert the needle under the loops and over the thread. 30th .— SEWING BUTTONS. and run your thread exactly along the lengthwise thread of the garment. such as stiff paper or thin oil-cloth. they should be basted on a flat surface. LOOPS.— Lesson 30. and in many instances a thread or ravelling drawn from the goods itself is preferable. The darning thread to be used depends entirely — — — on the material to be darned. Always begin a little beyond the worn places so your stitches will hold. and mark either with a pin or with tailor's chalk. then begin on the cross wise threads and run over and under the lengthwise threads altering the over and under stitch. repeat three or four times or until you have thickness consistent with the weight of goods you are working on. When the button is securely sewed on wind the thread a few times around under the button and fasten well on the under side of the garment. and examine our Furniture and Floor Coverings. Lesson 32. Get acquainted with our stock and new things with which our store is Let us show you what beautiful pieces can be had for little money. ON Lesson 31. The Henke Furniture 3001-3021 Lorain Ave. leaving the thread moderately loose. Page 21 Co. W. HAVE YOU EVER INSPECTED OUR LARGE FURNITURE STORE? It Will Pay Come You in to Do So see the filled.. draw through cloth and bring thread loosely down to exact length desired. continue till loop is covered. then measure exact place button is needed.

and patches can be put on and repairs made on a moment's notice by adhering to the following directions: Brush leaving size it all dust from garments. or that can be mended much better with the Havanco Mending Tissue than with needle and thread. OHIO . Cut piece of the Havanco tissue the of the piece of lay a paper on cloth over for stockings. and on a rent or cut in a material which needs patching. not have the iron HOT. . the stitch to mended without darning or is A is thread from the cloth used and begun back from the rent and the back and forth in running is stitch a slanting line taken until the tear has been closed. Same directions goods or other goods where part is worn thin and a patch required. druggists. — Stoting. also mending all kinds of rents in clothing. all and press with a warm flatiron. PATCHING. HAVANCO MENDING TISSUE The best thing for repairing bottoms of skirts and pants. silk garments. Baste patch on wrong side of goods. boiled. Remember do patches. follow above for Garments repaired with Havanco may be washed and ironed but not Heat is the only thing that will affect it. place piece of goods like garment under hole. Lesson 34. If possible have your patch of the same material. and cut it so the weave comes exact with the place to be mended. and useful for making many other kinds of repairs quickly and effectively. dry goods and notion stores. send post paid upon the receipt 1382 West Ninth Street THE HALL-VAN GORDER COMPANY Page 22 CLEVELAND. etc. silk goods and place it between the garment and the patch. directions Re-seating or repairing knees of boys' pants. a little larger than the hole.— Lesson 33.. On the right side cut out the worn or frayed part and make a small slit in each of the corners and turn down evenly the edges and sew down neatly on both sides of the garment. — Stoting be is used on »%&&% WTPrfiiTi?lIli-- heavy goods. Black and Brown Ten Cents to the by package for . One For sale piece each of White. — There are many materials such as rain-proof clothing or kid gloves. or will of the price in stamps.

always ready.. Ackerman's Patent Ideal Faucet Syringe and Bath Spray The most wonderful improvement ever made j-i i !<v . sanitary. It is entirely unlike the old style. perfect and effective syringe ever made. IDEAL FAUCET SYRINGE COMPANY 9601 Cedar Avenue. a which has and when sponge in it.: Lesson 35. economical. while the ordinary fountain syringe has not enough force to it to dislodge germs. You can get any desired pressure or flow of water. A lady. whereas with the Ideal Faucet Syringe you can obtain any desired force. Cleveland. Can be used for everything a fountain syringe is used for. Ohio Page 23 . clumsy fountain syringe.— Where may be used. desired to use an antiseptic or sanative treatment in connection with a douche. no cumbersome water bags to get out of order. in a syringe.. With this Ideal Faucet Syringe you can get the same results. The operator can use a pint or a gallon without stopping and at any force desired..•> . It is the most simple.-. which is controlled by a valve. y\ '. the goods are heavy and not It is often washed. if necessary. all that is required is to it is drop your medicine onto this Sponge in the cup.— OVERHAND ordinary patch right side (see PATCH. in washing off dirt from the porch. and the force of the stream can be regulated to suit the purpose for which it is used from a drop of water at a time to a pressure of 50 pounds. — The Ideal Patent Cup Attachment. screw on cap and attach to end of rubber tube before putting on the spray and then screw on the vaginal pipe and the whole stream of water is medicated with the medicine. as there is no limit as to the supply of water. will use the lawn hose with such force as to drive everything before it. will last a life time. the overhand patch put on the same as the is Lesson 34). except that the patch to a overhanded on the and the underside neatly cut down good seam and pressed. convenient. so long found inefficient and unsatisfactory..

41. which is beautifully made at and ready for use. Trim the under edge narrower than the outer. the bias strip to emerge. and are width and join the diagonal bias is Lesson 37. Lesson 40. — an exactly even depth under the fold. considerably on tailored suits. Hold the cord so cannot become twisted and place the exact center of the fold.Lesson 36. and silk thread should always be used to join the seams of a garment made of wool goods.— BANDS AND FOLDS. — Piping is made of bias strips folded in the center. — — Cent. such as binding or overhanding the raw edges. or by making the felled or French seams. make a narrow turn up of the bottom edge and bring it up to cover the edge turned down. SEAMS. Great care must be taken that the stitches are not too fine on tailored seams. When the fold is lined. and then turn under the edges of the fold and stitch with one or two rows of stitching. Seams can be joined by machine stitching. DOUBLE FOLD. — — Lesson 38. piping. Fold over the top edge. Good Try Our Home-like Baking QUALITY HAS BEEN OUR SUCCESS COFFEE Page 24 .— Cut Lesson and basted N. but the stitching must be very straight and very even.— MILLINER'S FOLD. On heavy goods that do not ravel or fray out to press back the edge of the seam. and cutting diagonally. allowing only the edge of The piping may be lined or unlined. 4679 K Tables fnr Ladies DRINK Griffiths Restaurant 1022-1028 Prospect Avenue SENORA Always the Same CLEVELAND. 39. chain running stitch. — CORDING.B. as they make a Cut your bias strips the desired easily made. 0. Sew up the seam in any of the ordinary ways described in the preceding lesson.—A true the material with the straight edge of the top lengthwise fold exactly. turn down the fold and sew neatly just below the cord. the canvas is basted in and the edges of the fold fastened down with the catch stitch. or they may be protected in various manners. Lesson — — stitch. Lesson 42. & N. Baste and sew on either by machine or by hand. With a narrow turning fold the broad edge over the narrow edge of the seam and hem either by hand or on machine. or back stitch or the edge when of material that does not fray can be left raw or pinked.— Cut it the bias strips twice in as wide as desired. your bias bands two and one-half times the width desired. and stitch on either side gives a very good finish. obtained by folding on the selvedge or straight Folds and bands are used very neat trimming. ends. Take your bias band twice the desired width and fold so the edges come exactly together. Ask your dealer for the W. and is an easy manner of disposing of the tailored seams. —PIPING. FELLED SEAM.

Baste down then hem with slant stitch (see Lesson S). WELT SEAM. or hemstitch (see Lesson 17).) side of Page 25 . Cut either bias or crosswise strips and turn under both edges and stitch over a plain seam. The W. -Make a plain seam leaving one edge wide and one edge narrow. LAPPED SEAM. STRAP SEAM. binding. & N. Lesson 49. of Turn fold as of for an ordinary Fold back the linen the crease the first the hem and with very fine stitches. overcast using the damask hem. when hemming can be done on the machine as it saves the measuring and basting.— To hem square corners. — Is used for setting in insertion. Lesson 46. yet deep enough so the turning includes all the edges.— TO CORNERS. Lesson — ROLLED the right side. Lesson —DAMASK at HEM. or running stitch on the right side of the garment. being careful the stitches do not show through on the right side. turn under exactly as for an ordinary hem. Catch the overlap of the corners of the hem to the underlap.BELLE VERNON MILK the Best Milk Lesson 43. or W. Hold goods toward you and turn neatly and begin at the right and sew insertion and material together with the slant stitch. Turn back the wide fold and baste down the narrow edge and stitch with one or two rows of stitching. and cut the material in the fold and hem — — HEM the bias edges. — Table It is linen can be very neatly hemmed by hem. Trim evenly and narrowly. HEM. 50. Lesson 48. turn garment and sew on wrong side taking seam of depth to entirely inclose the first seam. The edges of the goods to be bound should be evenly trimmed and the binding basted on the edges. very simple. When finished take a moderately hot iron and press down wrong the hem on 51.— The proper material for binding the edges of seams is bias bands of silk. This is one of the simplest manners in which to dispose — — — — — — of a tailored seam. leaving just room enough to catch the stitches nicely. Hems are made by turning the edge of the material twice in any suitable depth and the fold fastened down with the slant stitch or by hemstitching or in some instances the plain running stitch. while in others a hem is joined to a lace or embroidery insertion by what is called a roll hem. & N.— Sew the seam by machine. Lesson 47. Much time is saved however. or after turning the edges for the hem fold toward the center. binding turns itself so all you need to do is to fasten the binding on by hand or sew it down with machine. and overhand the end. Then cut a strip of heavy paper or notch a piece of card board the exact depth you desire your hem and use this paper or card board for a marker. for your hem must be turned exactly even. Lesson 45. linen or cotton. Lesson 44. For the ordinary hem begin by making a narrow turning.— THE BOUND SEAM. and cut out the underlying corners. A lap seam is as its name implies one seam lapping over another. Stitch near the edge of the upper lap and again one-half inch back. HEMMING.—THE FRENCH SEAM. (See Lesson 5.

tape. bias tape is most useful in innumerable instances. Muffs. Street Dresses. lay a damp cloth over them and press so they will keep their fold nicely. House Gowns. only you must always baste down your pleats. can be done as successfully on the sewing machine as by hand and very much quicker.— Divide rather make a 53. accordion pleating. made of goods without a finished edge edge must be neatly hemmed the Art Pleating Shop 438 Old Arcade Cleveland Page 26 . Lesson — GATHERING. And many styles of Pleat ings for Trimmings of Dresses. Maternity Dresses. Waists. embroidery. Turn and sew down either with machine or with slant stitch. side pleating and sunburst pleating must be done but all a pleating establishment. or the work will not look neat. TUCKS. Where lace or embroidery must be joined in tucks sew the cloth so the seam will come in the fold of and under the tuck. Lesson 56. unless you have a pleating machine of your own. either N. & N. Neckwear. Place the right side of the facing against the right side of the goods and sew firmly with machine or by running stitch. Etc.— RUFFLES. lace. The White Sewing Machine is provided with a tucker with which you can easily both regulate your tucks and the space between the tucks. In underwear the W. at Lesson 55. In this instance the edge of the embroidery or lace must be heavy enough to entirely cover the edge of the material of the garment. Etc. Dressing Sacques. Lesson — — straight — Lesson 54. Hats. your goods into two or four even knot and use the simple running stitch. 52. Use a bias band. Facing of lace or embroidery around the neck or arm hole of sleeves is sometimes put on the right side making a trimming or finish. then heavy draw goods on gathering string into exact position desired. B.— SHIRRING. Fancy Waists. PL E ATI N G Accordeon Pleating and Side Pleating made in the newest effects for Party Costumes. FACINGS. A first class sewing machine is provided with a tucker that can be gauged for any size tuck you desire. Pleats are made the same as tucks. — Ruffles may be made of straight or bias goods. or on a seam. chiffon or any of If the ruffle is to be sheer materials. tucks by hand you must make a marker and fold exactly on the line and — — sew down carefully by machine or with running stitch. Dancing Frocks.spaces. embroidery.— Is simply from two to as many rows of gatherOn most materials it ing as desired. a piece of goods cut either across or down the weave of the goods will do. Embroidery or lace may be used for facing on some articles by following the suggestion of cut which is done in the same way as the ordinary facing. Always draw the ends of the threads through to the underside of the garment and tie carefully. so it is not necessary But to make to baste in your tucks after a little practice on your machine. Children's Dresses.

They are flat and invisible and never slip open as To sew on. PRICE. snap fasteners or buttons can be used. and if desired an edging may be sewed on either by machine The ruffle is attached to the garment or neatly overhanded (see Lesson 6). Lesson 57.— SEWING ON LACE OR EMBROIDERY. Headache. and cannot rust. undergarments.. sew hook so often happens with the ordinary hook and eye. dresses. When the food is not being properly digested and the Liver refuses to work and the whole system becomes clogged with poison and you need a good. MICH. Lesson 59. or the ruffle may be sewed on the right side and covered with a bias band. belts. put the right side of the lace to the right If the machine is to be used put the edge side of the material and overhand. of insertion. ZOA-FHORA KALAMAZOO. The White Sewing Machine has an attachment wherewith the hemming is done and the lace or embroidery sewed on with one operation. gentle cathartic fL-J^y^-* & - RememberZOA-PHORA Stomach and gratifying results.— Baste the lace or embroidery on the right side in the exact position desired. and stitch on right side. Lesson 58. See page 96 for partial list. bias tape. 25 CENTS. quick. & N. Or the lace or embroidery may be set in by using the roll hem. which we recommend for skirts. waists. B.— If the lace or embroidery is to be put on by hand. to the necessary fullness and by placing the right side of the material and ruffle together and sewing firmly. and all Disorders Arising from a Sluggish Liver and Imperfect Digestion.Moth 71. The Wilson Dress Hook and Eye is easy to hook and unhook. On page 32.— SEWING ON HOOKS AND EYES. N. Liver Pills CO.. ZOA-PHORA STOMACH The Scientific AND LIVER PILLS and Effectual Remedy for Biliousness. children's garments or any purpose. Props.— SETTING IN LACE OR EMBROIDERY. which is done exactly as overcasting. either by gathering (see Lesson 52). (See Lesson 48). turn hollow side (see — Page 27 . of the wrong side of the lace or embroidery to the edge of the right side of the hem and stitch. Lesson 48). Or again the ruffle may be inserted in the hem by placing the right side of the garment and the ruffle together and turn hem back to In very fine the wrong side of the garment. taking pains to catch through the narrow hem on the underside. make a second turning and hem. or with a piece of the W. work a ruffle of lace or embroidery may be put on with the whip stitch (see Lesson 6). Liver Pills Stomach have been used for over half a century with most For habitual Constipation and Bowel Trouble use the ZOA-PHORA Anti-Constipation Pills. For sale at all first-class druggists. you will find a cut of the Wilson Dress Hook and Eye. Cut out goods Carefully baste down hem over edge leaving enough only for a narrow hem. where hooks and eyes. where an ordinary hook or buttonhole would be placed.

Men's shirts should be marked with an embroidered initial just above Linen. You can get these letters or monograms in nearly any shade or style and all you need to do is to baste them on your fabrics and work over them with your embroidery cotton or silk. is This or the Reis fully embroidered articles.00 for 144 $1. St. s accident. which gives the inside of the boned' article a very pretty finish.- Printed from Engraved Black on fine Tape: WOMANKIND no medicine will. by procuring the Reis woven names.75 If your dry p><<ds store cannot take youi orders send youi order with remittance direct to us. JL22Z Pa ere 28 . woven initials made on woven tape which can be neatly overcasted on the inside of the garment. REIS & BRO. Lesson 61. besides being a substantial stitch to hold the boning secure.sewn to an i Sm Phora won't do for garment.toward the cloth and the straight edge toward edge of cloth. $2. the hosiery. fleeze lined and woolen underwear. as well as in the simplest. aprons and children's clothes.i different style letters. The stitch used is simply sewing over and over through the small round holes of the hook and eye.— MARKING OF LINEN UNDERWEAR. They never wear out. Lesson 60. in fact all laundered garments should be marked with the name or at least the initial of the member of the family to whom the article belongs. very quickly and easily done. What MARK YOUR GARMENTS WITH REIS' WOVEN NAMES Vonr garments should hear your name.25 for 72 Names Names Plate-. ami will identify you in case of REIS' NAMES come in si jj. uji 100 200 Names for $1. REIS' WOVEN NAMES are machine woven <>n good quality white "a m hi ic tape in either red. It saves annoyance. Every garment and piece of linen in your home should be marked.— PUTTING IN STAYS AND COLLAR SUPPORTS. in the most elaborate gowns. The Warren Feather Bone for stays or collar supports can be stitched by machine into the lining of the article to be boned. prevents loss by laundries and hotels. as are the ordinary hook and fastener.25 IV arr-. in a REIS' ENGRAVED NAMES t'anilin.es for $1. G. ami are easily cut apart anil . and sew the eye where an ordinary eye or button would have been placed. navy. lingerie and handkerchiefs beautifully monogrammed or with carecuff. many prefer to use the feather stitch (see Lesson 18).. but a more attractive way is to use the catch stitch (see Lesson 11). Broadway and Bleecker ®*s NEW VCKK o^v/rv. light hlue Mark and can he had in several . initials plainest form the distinctive mark which The Reis foundation washable letters lends dignity to the or the Reis initial medallions should always be used. The gauze.. However. for they are perfect and durable and will stand the boiling and ironing of the laundry without being damaged in the least.

However should you prefer to have the embroidery done by more experienced fingers than your own or have not the time to devote on that part of the decoration of waist or gown you will do well to take it to your local embroiderer where the work will be done by trained hands who make a specialty of lessons together with full directions for of embroidering. 4th St. We also make buttons of your own material. There is no trimming or ornamentation for waists. dresses or wash suits which meets the refined feminine approval more than embroidery designs. embroidered initials are very beautiful. green. G ReiS & BrOS. white. Lesson 62.— EMBROIDERY DESIGNS. Y.The Hawley Cor. Ohio .. navy. requires artistic ability and much to make an attractive design. beautiful and elaborate creations. work a. St. Clair Ave. but all of the stitches ordinarily used will be found in this series stamping and making the garment. Our experienced embroiderers can work out in perfect effects any design you may choose for any purpose Either machine cr hand work. N. but pretty AVERYon the fad to have the Hand Regular Dinner. 10c. m. ii red. Joseph Korach Both Phones 1258 Page 29 & Company W. lavender and black. each or 3 for 25c. CJA11 you have to do is stick them on and work over with silk or cotton. in all styles. The designs and stitches used will depend entirely upon the taste of the individual and the style and texture of the garment. 630 Broadway. (CLEVELAND Sixth City initial sleeve or pocket of shirts. Served from 11 25 Cents to 2 p. On nearly all smart garments from the marquisettes and sheer chiffon and silks and dainty lawns to the heavier materials and all wash goods you will find at least a suggestion ranging from the pretty French knots and the simple outline and chain stitch following the simplest of patterns to the most intricate. (Braiding and Embroidering) Cleveland. etc. Reis' Initials elimate all this work. Embroidery Send or bring us that piece of Embroidery that you do not know how or have not the time to trouble to do. m. Price. pajamas. and ^-* R "IS • it 9 EMBROIDERED SHIRT INITIALS is West Third St.

shall be glad to show it up and let it speak for itself. (Silk. (See page 20— Boning. cheaply made machine when for the same money or a few dollars more a first class. 426 ProspectCO. quilt. 11 Wheel (A) 40 and 41. The articles usually required are: 1 2 —Cutting Scissors — Button Hole Scissors Stick 3— Yard 4 — — — 8— 9— Pins 10 — Tailor's —Tracing 5 —Tape 6 7 Line Needles Thread. On the other hand do not attempt to use a coarse thread in a fine needle or a fine thread in a large needle. DO DON'T DO WHAT Vibrator. see page 31D). with ordinary care will last a lifetime so the greatest of caution should be used in selecting one. (Cotton) Thread.) SEIWNG MACHINE. Your machine must be kept perfectly clean and well oiled and by keeping the tension adjusted just right you will not need to give it much further attention. gather. and ? learn how much easier. or where a line of tucks or trimming is desired. A good sewing machine (B) THREADS. — Hooks and Eyes — Patterns 15 — Linings. (See page 18— Trimmings. (See page 19— Dress Shields. (See page 21 — Dress Forms. but and a large spool of white basting thread and a spool of colored basting thread to use where it is not expedient to mark with a pencil or tailor's chalk. Botti WHITE SEWINGNo. It is always a bad investment to buy an inferior. reliable and reputable make can be purchased. NECESSARY SEWING ACCESSORIES.) 41. MACHINE Avenue Phones CHAPTER XI. provide yourself with a variety of sizes of cotton spool thread Be sure and Page 30 . see that you have the necessary accessories at hand with which to do your work. Chalk — Skirt Marker.Buy a Sewing Machine before you see the WHITE. hemstitch and in fact do nearly everything that the human fingers can do in this line and a wise woman will keep her attachments always on hand and use them whenever possible for they will save her hours of useless labor. better and quicker it will do your sewing. made in One is of the greatest mistakes is sewing is the use of a needle that too large and thread that too coarse. the thread should just pass easily through the eye of the needle. Before beginning the making of a garment. A modern machine is supplied with attachments that will hem.) 37. Rotary Shuttle IX! We and "Sit-Strate" Machines.) 36. (Basting) Thread. (See page 16— Stiffenings 17 — Tape.) 38.) 39. (See pages 12 13 14 34.

and made in every conceivable color and shade. then you'll need the WHITE.. cloth. and so if you are progressive and desire to do your sewing under the most advantageous conditions. etc. silk will wash and wear without fading. Embroidery silk will give that rich. not be generally known that silk is the strongest fiber known to mankind. It's exclusively White." write tell you where you can get it. and we will BELDING BROS. consequently. they are always unsatisfactory and a garment not properly is — Page 31 . Pure costs One of the (D) most important SEWING THREAD. on acproper texture. is made from your dealer does not carry "Belding's. If us. BELDING'S SEWING SILK the finest quality of raw silk. count of its great strength. lustrous and beautiful effect that cannot be obtained with any of the imitations or substitutes. and that a yard of pure silk thread will stretch from two to three inches. trimmings. Great care may be used in selecting styles.DON'T GUESS you as a Sewing Machine user of the White Tension Indicator but see it for yourself. smooth and elastic. and while embroidery silk more than cotton or any of the other substitutes. if the thread is not of the Silk thread is particularly adapted for seam making. 528 Broadway NEW YORK There hook and (E) HOOKS AND EYES. no greater extravagence than to invest in a cheap worthless eye. PROSPECT AVENUE EMBROIDERY THREAD. a seam sewed with silk is infinitely stronger. is The kind of embroidery material all important. WHITE SEWING MACHINE BOTH PHONES (C) 426 CO. will give to a stress. the results to be obained will more than justify the difference in expense. With it you can do work that can't possibly be done on any other machine. and so available only for White at the value to buyers. and It may will always retain its original shape. elasticity and fast color. requisites in dressmaking is the thread used in sewing the seams. & CO. whereas a cotton or linen thread has no "give" or "stretch". and yet the results will be disappointing. is strong. Be sure to drop in and see it at first opportunity.

the back is always smooth.kooks FuBI-Size Card Sent V. . Gray. free.ig not go through the is laundry without pieces. upstairs and I'll run fix it.E. lation to They are truly a reve- on Dress.. its Many to of the common The brands of hooks and eyes will rust and leave marks on your garment. Page 32 . best thing to do to make sure that This Embarrassment Can Never Come to You if You Use the hooks that can't "pop" open accidentally or allow the dress to gape and spread. Ohio hooks are sewn.. — will fastened is ruined. while others L-oi. 10c several garments.'ilson i pppp H E» d Fill Out This Coupon . Always Dress-hook Co. neatly closed and perfectly flat if you use these un ique hooks Though you can unhook them with per. So flat . out beyond the edse and show.** 198 St. 10c a My Name Street Ask for Wilson Dress-hooks on all ready-to-wear .N. garments Address J The Wilson Dress-hook Company 198 St. Name J. oard of one dozen.omng.ClairAve.. J His Address.. "Thank you. snap fasteners or buttons. They are Wilson Dress-hooks." women accustomed to troublesome hook-. Black and White colors. card Wilson Dress-hooks. No matter how loose or tight your garment. 1 My er's Deal- Ave. Outwear Tlense send. provided you have not previously had a free card Dress-hooks are guaranteed not to rust or crush in washing The Wilson and .* invisible they never pull they do not leave the usual "bunch" which tells where other yf' Cleveland. N.. and eyes. O. Cleveland. White) previous sample Sold at notion counters everywhere (remember the orange and black card) Large and Small sizes. — Black. making them invaluable on wash garments. Clair * y* ^* Town . fect ease.State. Can not catch on trimmings. E.

the kind of hook and eyes. importance of the little things not only the quality and style of fabrics. We Specialists in Dressmakers'' Supplies '"THE BEST DRESSED and making of their WOMEN are most often those who take the keenest interest and pleasure in the small details clothes.— you have a brand that in will not rust and that will positively hold your garment recommend and use in our demonstrations the Wilson Dress Hook and Eye. Co. place. Shoulder Forms and Bust Forms The Ladies' Home Journal Patterns Reis Bros. Page 33 .. but the finish of lining. is at hand. Coat Pads. because we make a specialty of all the little the linings and findings. to the style book and pat- We mention: Conovers' Naiad Dress Shields Warren 's Featherbone Wilson's Hooks and Eyes £5? Embroidery Foundations Coat Fronts. shields and dozen other seemingly trifling details. all the best of such are here. realize the These women Each season fabrics finds here the newest of cloths. which we find is always reliable and satisfactory and costs no more than any other good fastener. And. and always and pleasing assortments. the quality of thread. silks in large and dress things. Every convenience tern.

you are assured of a If your garment does not require a or satin lining. very difficult. effect in the lining of a coat (F) It is just as essential to it have a satisfying Silk is or jacket. BELDING BROS. It is naturally the most beautiful of all fabrics for lining purposes. Belding's Pure silk Dye Guaranteed Satin. No fabric will wear as well as a pure dye silk fabric. you should take into consideration the HEXTER'S LINING STORE Dress Makers' Supplies and 1 Tailors' Trimmings " "Everything for your Dress but the Goods 153-155 Arcade : : Euclid Avenue Entrance Page 34 . select silk linings that will By procuring reliable. however. as is in the exterior. some of the most reliable silk manufacturers are weaving their names in the selvage of the lining as a guarantee of wear. 528 Broadway NEW YORK CITY LININGS. Dye Guaranteed Satin the every yard guaranteed to give satisfactory wear. cloak or garment. Look for and accept no substitute. & CO.Belding's Pure name on the selvage. In order to overcome this difficulty. satisfactory lining for your suit. for the average person to wear well. on account of the practice of adulteration or weighting.

Belching of Gas. To all those who have not tried them it seems impossible. asking them to show you their newest and most appropriate linings for the purpose which you desire. 327-329 East 34th St. have hooks and eyes in the back or front. \J XV A Digestive Tablets See ?oT 96 special offer For Indigestion. and you will need to be informed as to the best. where a fitted lining is not desired the Grean Invisible Net Foundations will be most valuable to you. putting on hooks and eyes and finishing. boning. finish it. cutter and fitter never attempt to make even the plainest garment without a pattern. quality and texture of your material and go to a reliable lining store. but you may rest assured that the new. Dyspepsia.. but above the boned portions and on the shoulders. Bloating. and all Disagreeable Symptoms arising from a Disordered Stomach. illustrating precisely how to put the garment together. Nausea. 25 cents per box y (^ jTV " pTTfvn l\. and in white and black Corsica silk. Always get your pattern before buying your goods if possible. boned. Sour Risings. so with this Manual of Sewing and Dress Making and a Pictorial Review Pattern. Be careful and purchase the exact size or exactly what your measure is around the waist and you will have a good fitting lining. according to sty!e. /A / \ ± ±J. This & 51 - 00 name Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Company. this affords easy ripping if a fitting is necessary and all the fitting is done at the upper part of the waist in all instances. the seams are very loosely stitched. or professional have to suffer before they attain the result which you obtain in a ready made Grean Fitted Waist Lining. you will find it easy to cut and fit and make any garment you may desire. as new linings are constantly coming into fashion. by knowing exactly the — required amount to make the article in question. They are all finished. and have it stuffed up for the purposes of having her own figure for fitting 75c and draping in the workroom. Heartburn. New York weight. (G) PATTERNS. They are made in linolawnblack. With every Pictorial Review Pattern you will find a Cutting Guide show- ing exactly how to lay on your goods to the best advantage and how to guard against making any mistakes in cutting. The cost of a pattern is so small and the help they give so great that you cannot afford to take chances of wasting your goods without a pattern to guide you. write us today ana we will supply you direct or give you of a reliable dealer who handles our line. white and grey percaline. overcomes all obstacles. which dressmakers at home. Page 35 . Always select a pattern exactly your own size don't get one a size too large or a size too small. for often you can save a yard or so of goods or save yourself from running short of material. the If your dealer cannot supply you. Every person should buy one of grey percaline fitted to herself. Unless you are an experienced designer.FITTED WAIST LININGS is considered one of the most important inventions of the present time. There is also a Construction Guide. which is ready for use without having the trouble of cutting. or if it is a light weight waist. for if you do so you will take every chance of making a complete misfit of your garment. as it eliminates the endless preliminary fittings. but simple principle which is embodied in the Grean Waist Linings. much time can be saved by using the Grean Fitted Lining. If you are lining a waist that needs a fitted lining. fitting. Pain or Distressed Feeling in the Stomach.

F. also in India Linon. widths and quality of materials. a necessity in the home sewing room.? White and (*4 colors. Made "W. Mf rs . for the support for the hooks and eyes. &N. Dept. finishing or It will binding seams on all materials and for fagotting. showing colors. not shrink. and for this BIASSEAHTAPt It turns itself "W. E. Wm. to }A in. wide)." Bias Seam Tape INDISPENSABLE IN THE SEWING ROOM Saves half the work making a garment. while on your skirts your seam must be bound. TRADE MARK REGISTERED Once used Always used Beware of Imitations AT ALL DEALERS A is very useful article for piping. & Sons Co. 4 widths (5-16 in. Silk. For the waist you will need it in many instances. almost impossible to make any article of wearing apparel without tape. & N.. Page 36 .." Bias Seam Tape Are you taking advantage of its Cambric and Lawn. Sample reference book free.— (H) It is TAPE. NEW YORK. Wright 40 Lispenard St. i in highest grade n - to 1 in. 13 widths Pure Linen and wide) usefulness. for the binding around the neck and armholes and many other purposes.

protecting your garments shield reliable When dress — so many the The Crowning Attribute of Lovely Woman is Cleanliness NAIAD DRESS SHIELD SUPREME Beauty ! IN Quality ! Cleanliness ! POSSESSES two important and exclusive features. stores or sample pair on receipt of 25 Tl 1 he f* T* /"* t. which is ready for use and turns itself so the edge is always neat and even. 101 Franklin St. At the cents.N. which nothing in the world of the kind can rival in daintiness and beauty.— purpose no tape answers so well as the W. On your underwear you will need it to bind over your embroidery ruffles. there is an odor from the rubber of the cheaper shields that is very offensive to a refined woman. f* Manufacturers. of from perspiration be sure and select a cheaper shields on the market today are anything but satisfactory and the ruined waists showing the stains just below the shields are a result of their use. Narrow Bias Seam Tape means an additional wear of many months.. Bias Seam Tape. On the Parisian lingerie.Y.I!. Added to these the fact that an unreliable shield will not wash and cannot be kept sanitary makes it imperative to procure a good reputable shield that can be relied upon to protect your gown or jacket. We use in our demonstrations and always recommend the Naiad Dress Shield. & N. and when you have an embroidered edge to your garment as seen in Lesson 79. Page 37 . And then too. (I) DRESS SHIELDS. & N.. you will see this tape neatly put on with the tiniest of slant stitch making a support just below the scallop of the embroidered edge and you will find it most satisfactory to follow their example. you will find that a support of the W. tOnOVer LO. It does not deteriorate with age and fall to powder in the dress can be easily and quickly sterilized by immersing Guarantee with Every Pair in boiling water for a few seconds only. instead of facing.

Michigan Page 38 . Girdles and Collars because Stitching bone in on by machine holds the place. for all tailors use only the Warren Feather Boning. as best known and most reputable boning on the market. Linings.(J) BONING. The class dress- is by far the (The Perfect Boning) for Waists. first it makers and subject of boning can be quickly disposed of. girdles collar-sets. insist and leaded dress weights that they are u -ip^M&tt" YtMendif£u Three Oaks. giving permanent shape To bone a waist Send for requires less than 10 minutes our Instruction Booklet with attachment for machine FREE When buying waist-bones. collar-foundations. collar-bones.

skirt and dress making and fitting or for dress repairing at home. To make Pneu Form perfectly. but to save yourself the time and the tediousness of trying on your gowns. you simply inflate it inside your fitted waist lining and before you stands YOU shoulders. 557 Fifth Ave. you do your own dressmaking or have it done at your home you should by all means provide yourself with a Dress Form. not only as a means to secure correct and perfect lines and insure a well fitting garment. Pneu Form is mounted on an adjustable standard rod which may be raised or lowered to the exact height desired. It relieves you of tiresome standing hour after hour for fittings. nothing can possibly take the place of Pneu Form. Pneumatic Form Company J. and enables you to study your own form while you work upon your own garments. reproduce your form. near NEW YORK Nothing so good for skirt And base this little box tlwi S». It is the practical invention of a woman and consists of a nonleakable air chamber made of specially prepared m and well covered rubber cloth. containing full description and prices." Edition H-I. jjBK fitting and holds draping it all Page 39 .(K) If DRESS FORMS. One Pneu Form. If you are ^eiiftxriii It's You The Wonderful Pneumatic Dress Form Sold In Many First Class Stores Pneu Form is the easiest and handiest dress form the world to manipulate. Write today for new illustrated booklet' "It's You.. bust and hips with looking glass — — fidelity. For waist.6th St. serves for any number of persons by simply changing the waist lining.

50.00. can be adjusted at neck. these economical prices. and the fit of your garment is of far more importance than the quality of the material.00. $8. etc.50. Euclid. If you sew. conforming to any size or shape desired. — — t^ —of trying to see dress fits in the how your back or how —effectively by the use of the skirt hangs with the aid of a looking glass need no longer trouble you if you have a Dress Form of your exact figure..e sewing room as the Sewing Machine. hips. Dress forms are now considered just as necessary just as indispensable to equipment of t . stands without tiring.. main floor. simply and durably made. and get the benefit of Notion Dept. tiresome fittings you change position so often that you are liable to change your lines. With a dress form which reproduces your own lines perfectly you will be able to get a better fitting garment than if it was tried on yourself. for during the tedious. saves time and annoyance and its cost — many times over.00. $10. Shears and Tape Measure.00. and will last a lifetime. $5.making your own gowns there is no way without assistance that you can fit yourself without a Dress Form. Hall-Borchert's complete correct Model Adjustable Form is in every way up to date. a Dress Form of proper size and shape to aid you the form is always ready. Pictorial Review Pattcis 10c & 15c Main EAGLE STAMPS FREE with Every Purchase Floor Euclid Page 40 . waist. have a dress form by all means buy it at The May Co. Skirt can be adjusted to any style and can be raised or lowered to any desired skirt length. $3. $1. $12. $2.50.00. Correct model bust and dress forms at $1.00 and $15. and YOUR VERY IMAGE in lines and proportions can be reproduced with a Hall-Borchert and Majestic GUARANTEED Perfect Fitting Dress — Form — Every style included Adjustable and Non-Adjustable— of which we show a large variety for every purpose and figure.

that a harmonious. suitable and desirable effect can be obtained. whose beauty depend so much upon the graceful lines. are supplied with a dress today has neither the time or the patience to be manner. the fitted in the old. most inexpensive gown can be made attractive with well selected trimming. for and own as well. bands and special trimmings. if only a dash of it. should usually be chosen. Dress Forms made and your dealer will gladly demonstrate them to you. You should secure a Dress Form before attempting to make any of the up-to-date gowns. braids. form.the entire fit of your gown be of ruined. A person with a dull. but take a sample of your goods and go to a first-class dress trimming establishment and ask to be shown suitable trimmings for your goods and often you will find something new and attractive that in the ordinary way would have escaped your atten- The plainest. colorless complexion must always study the trimmings and adornment of their costume and some bright color. tion entirely. and which is impossible to get when you fit yourself We show two of the most reliable reputable without one of these forms. tedious woman (L) DRESS TRIMMINGS. When you have a gown or suit that needs trimming. Cleveland Dress Trimming Company ^ V^ 4 6 Euclid Ave. 1 COVERED tooR DE R ^ ^ of Second Door East Opera House Page 41 . laces. One can always procure such a variety of silks. do not go to the first store you happen to pass and take anything that may be presented to you. their All first-class dressmakers desirous of saving their customers' time.

both edges of the opening must be faced. unless perhaps. The following rules must be observed. careful that every stitch that shows through on the right side be positive 5 and even. upper fold. Do not do it carebut see that your pattern is laid on correctly and pinned securely and that you cut accordingly. The mark which reveals the inexperienced or careless sewer is more quickly and more likely to be seen in the finish of the placket than in any other part of your garment. confusing the one who is up valuable space with unnecessary repetitions. it be in the making of the buttonholes.CHAPTER VII. Page 42 7— In . or in trying of the stretch the edges 4 — Be —Use belt. Stretching these edges means always a full baggy look. Don't have it too long nor yet so short an opening that you immediately tear open the placket. to get 2 — Cut easily into it on. Luncheon 11 to 2 NEW CENTER LUNCH CLUB 813 Prospect Ave. 6 We most highly recommend the notch at the right place on — See that the placket comes to the exact your making a placket. same general instructions over seeking information and also taking SENSIBLE PLACES TO LUNCH EUCLID CAFETIERE 328 Euclid Ave. just far enough the garment. Home Cooking No Waiting Prices Reasonable M. (Lesson the eyes sewed on the under facing and the hooks on the facing of the 53). only the best of hooks and eyes. that you do not opening of the plackets. The bottom of the placket must be made secure on the under side. Your skirt will never fit smoothly across the back of the hips if you do. Wilson Hook and Eye. Kirby Building MAIN 1565 No Waiters O'Brien Building MAIN 3914 Lesson 63. reference will be made to the specific lesson treating of that particular subject instead of repeating the and over again. your placket binding exactly after your pattern. 3 — Be careful in picking up your skirt. F. P. your placket opening down exactly the right length. C. SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS In the following lessons we teach you the right way of making each part of a garment and in the succeeding lessons whenever that portion of the article is to be made.— PLACKETS. 1 — Cut lessly.

— The belt or doubled or may However.band may be of one piece be of one piece lined or faced. especially as wide belting shrinks from one to three inches to the ward. Healing and Soothing Antiseptic Ever Used for a Douche for Practically All Female Weakness Sanar can be used without fear of injuring the* most delicate or affected tissues as it does not smart or burn and is highly recommended by many of the most eminent physicians in this country. cut a straight piece double the width desired. For the Use of Careful Refined Women A A K^ C* A\ T\T l\ T"} ^ AA. For sale by all upon leading druggists or mailed to you receipt of 50 cents. A peplum is used instead of a belt or band or draw string to hold down at the waist and Page 43 . — — — effect.^XA. 64. 2j^ inches wide and fitted by gusset seams and boned Lesson BELTS AND BANDS. which is a feature not to be overlooked in wash dresses. Turn over the under edge and hem down to cover the seam on the inside of the garment. The object of the bone above the belt is especially useful to unlined or loose linings as some of the material can be draped or attached to boning.'V K I XI -r Safe Reliable Effective The Wonderful Cleansing. For this purpose wide belting is used. for the draping of waists. If the belt or band is faced sew the straight strip and the facing together and proceed the same as directed above. Ohio Lesson 65. the Grean Co.— YOKE AND PEPLUMS— A yoke is a very particular part of a garment to make. for ordinary belting.A. have improved this method by offering a seamless shaped belt thoroughly shrunk. No Married Lady Should Be Without This Wonderful Antiseptic SANAR REMEDY 746 Euclid Avenue CO. You can get the Grean Belt in three distinct styles: 1 Having bones as wide as the belting. If double. but a peplum is much easier especially to fit. 3 With boning above and below the belting to form a pointed bodice into shape. Turn the top of the folded edge toward the garment and stitch.— BELTS AND BANDS. Skirts and dresses at present are made with high belt. 2 With bones ejecting above the belting. Cleveland. A trial will convince you of its merits. If desired the belt or band can then be entirely stitched around.^.

Rugs. across the chest in wrinkles let is too tight if or draws out from under the arm and too loose in the neck and across the chest take up the under the arms. COMF>AMY "Where things are as represented" A GREAT STORE ALWAYS BUSY Prices Always as 5"flK3 Low or Lower Than Elsewhere Dry Goods. effect fitted. style many the peplum waist. All alterations for the neck seam both on the shoulders and must be made from the shoulder seams only.keep in in proper position the gathers of the corset cover or waist. be entirely done from the shoulder seams If it The fitting of the yoke must and the small space of the under arm seams. Ready-to-Wear. fit and alter (Lesson 77). Sew up seams If If either by machine or by hand (Lesson 41). is a part of the of garment and worn outside of the In is such not instances the in peplum must be exceptionally well any and all fitted or the good. fitting of the peplum all adjustments must be made at the joining is You should be it sure the pattern exactly the right is size about the waist before using. Cut out (Lesson Baste up. West 25th. yoke — attach collar (Lesson 66 or 68). Opposite New Market Page 44 Etc. For the seams. of the fashionable waists of today the is However. peplum — gather the waist or corset cover if it at the yaist line and put on exactly as were a skirt you were attaching. tight or will Care must be taken that the peplum not made too draw up and wrinkle. but cases a yoke must be most carefully 76). .

so best to buy the under collars ready made.in its proper place. Men's coats are never and invariably made in ' \ i \\ \ \ \ i /' ' ' ' 1 ' either black or grey cloth. Accept no imitations or substitutes. 8. Grean for those who find it difficult to shape an<^ ma ke the under-collar. Collars" a regular //-^^\ A /i'/""" /A *J'f r'/x'f /'. 3. Press very carefully. which if is 3 necessary for the material which you are using. 2. cutting it out the seam's width from the edges.--V/ • '. Lay right side of goods to right side of lining and baste. 7. 10. 6. You will find Orean Tailor Made Coat Collars beautifully shaped and pressed. 9. turning under the edge and carefully overcast (see Lesson 6).' ' \ vl | e_ 13C Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Company New York 327-329 East 34th Street. Tailor-Notch < . Catch the edges of the canvas to the cloth with the catch stitch (see Lesson 11). write us. Large stitches and an uneven turn of the material of the collar would ruin the appearance of the most beautiful suit. 5. / / ' .-JJ^C? Made Coat -^i ^hia is . so the canvas will keep . taking care the stitches do not show through. Sew on trimming.'/] . Baste in soft pliable French canvas after you have carefully shrunk it. on hooks and eyes (Lesson 59). stitch. Sew around the bottom edge and the sides and turn right side out. . unless you are experienced in tailoring. in the A it perfect cut of tailored collars is shown above figure. Press again.' /'-'<> /jVA/ < 'C-'/y /. 4 5 6 — Sew —Sew —Sew on all trimmings and ornaments. We will supply you direct or through a reliable dealer and send you a catalogue of other dressmaking helps. . 4.— HIGH entire COLLARS. Lesson 67. but if you wish to try to them yourself the following instructions should be followed: make Cut out exactly after pattern. sufficient 1 in collar to hide lining. Attach lining of collar to right side of garment and sew down by machine.— TAILORED COLLARS. for the canvas cannot be sewed in the seam with the lining without making it a little bunglesome. taking great pains that your stitches do not show any more than you can help and that you have entirely covered the seam of the underpart of the collar and that you have kept an even line.— Cut out (Lesson 76). designed by Mr. It is not necessary any more to make collars of cloth to match on the ' . . * -. The tailored collars are rather difficult to is make 1. W"-"^ made \ \ so. being careful to keep the goods and the canvas and the lining always perfectly smooth. "Tailor /ff. in collar supports (Lesson 60). If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealer's.' . 2—Turn seams around lining should be of cambric — Hem down with slant - Lesson 66. Then bring the outside material of collar neatly and smoothly down.' v/m "-- / ' ' '\ \ * Collar. i underpart. \f'i 1 / .

or the Page 46 .— TURN DOWN 1 COLLARS. are found throughout Lesson 68. as Your character sketch three above stated and any questions scientifically and answered by mail. 4 — If collar to attach of top to ment turn collar stitch. business. Ohio kind in The only incorporated College of Our students and satisfied patrons the United States and Europe.. material. only If stiffening is necessary use cambric or the finest. perfectly Strictly confidential. softest. and domestic qualities and your physical condition correctly diagnosed.00. 20).YOUR CHARACTER SKETCH SCIENTIFICALLY GIVEN By the Expert and Noted Character Readers of the Acme Your perfectly defined College of Science — Incorporated under the laws of Ohio 1907 social Est. Price $1. most pliable French canvas and baste it smoothly on the wrong side of the 2 — — Cut out (Lesson 76). Toledo. 3 — If lined turn right of lining to right of collar. using the fine running stitch slant stitch (Lesson (Lesson 5). 5 right right side side edge of to of garment and —Turn — collar under side of edge of and hem down neatly to cover seam. capacities. 6 If collar is to be left separate turn inside edges and neatly stitch or sew down by hand. America. and is stitch at outer gar- edge. personal The Acme College 1714 of Science its Adams St. 1899 abilities.

and some are not. 3 Sew up seams on machine and press. except the opening of the sleeve where cuff is attached must be faced back. 8 Gather top of sleeve between exact notches. 76). (Lesson 2— Baste up seams. but for garments where a permanent and a good shoulder They add a perfect outline to all shoulders. in edges of other side. if you will begin to fit by first placing the shoulder form in suchposition as you would like to have your coat appear. bottom of 6— Find the 5 1 and 3. — Cut out. where the fullness starts. not noticeable. They fit is desired. or face. and Construction Guide. Many beginners think sleeves are the hardest part of the garment to put together. 10 Sew in securely on machine. 15c Per Pair Shoulder forms are made in different outlines. thin. — — — — — Lesson 70. New York Lesson 69. . and fitters must use their judgment. Mr. Some are padded. Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. 7 Baste together cuff and sleeve and sew in securely on machine. 4 Hem. (Lesson 53). 9 Attach where notches of waist designate. 2 Baste 3 4 — — —Turn down evenly and sew on machine. page 51. pliable. Page 47 . (Lesson 48).— SHIRT WAIST SLEEVE. See Cutting Guide.PATENTED SHOULDER FORMS Shoulder Forms are used not for disfigured shoulders.— Follow instructions (Lesson 69). High. on and if Try al- necessary make (Lesson 77). are basted to canvas and you wA\ save a number of hours of alterations.. Baste to cover seam and sew either by hand or on machine. as to what to use. the bottom terations. lay right side against right side of goods. 327-329 East 34th St. — — of the sleeve or cuff. 1Take a straight strip of the material. page 54. Straight.— SLEEVES. full- and tack again where the ness being most careful to have the notches come exactly together. at the notch where the fullness begins in the sleeve and turning the right of the sleeve to the right of the cuff tack to the notch in the cuff — For No. The ordinary lap closing is made the same as the lap pocket. gather sleeve. and Sloping. inside the coat. but much of the difficulty is removed if proper care is taken in observing the directions and in- structions and paying strict at- tention to the 1 notches. Grean has designed special shoulder forms for different weight of garments from the lightest weight silk and taffeta. to the heaviest automobile and fur garments. ends.

— of Lesson 69. CUFFS— PLAIN BAND.. 3. • — For upper lap sew on in same manner. — Cut out exactly after pattern. cuff. The 1 lap closing as seen in sleeve No. 2— lined turn right side of lining to right side of goods and stitch sides and bottom of 3 — Turn right side out and stitch again at the very edge of the —Attach as step 6 (Lesson 69). plain The Band Cuffs are put on the same and CUFF— (Shirt They 1 Waist). COAT SLEEVE. If more of the fullness than COMBINATION This AR1VI PAD all fitters Combination Arm Pad. which is so much in vogue now. except your cuffs are either are attached at the bottom of the cuffs waist six Lesson 72. CUFF. but a few suggestions mill make it plain just as 6 how 7 awkward for the to make them. It is very simple in construction. or you may — Attach sleeve to lining of the cuff and turn back right edge of cuff and If cuff. Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. is an article used always by that have filling ever tried it. put damp cloth over and hold down firmly until you have pressed out all the superfluous fullness. —Cut two straight strips. The cuffs belonging to the sleeves are sometimes a little beginner. Baste inside of the sleeve. write us and we will either your order or direct you to a reliable merchant. if the material is soft you can press out the material is hard or harsh.. The coat sleeve is made For this purpose the sleeve roll of the Grean Dressmaking Specialties will be found very useful. and put on edge of pressing board. designed for the purpose of correcting the general hollow parts between the Arm Hole and the Bust.— LAP CLOSING. If fill and your dealer cannot supply you. cuff. turning the top of strip either with perfectly square corners or in a neat V shape. the bands are cut double width and turned back and hemmed over the seam which joins cuff and sleeve. New York is c Page 48 . requires a little soft foundation. are completed before attaching to sleeve. but outside of seam.— — Lesson 71. The latter is much neater and gives a more tailored finish the top piece of the cuff is sewed into the seam. 327-329 E. Stitch your goods well over it. —The coat sleeve is much simpler as steps exactly according to instructions of Lesson 69. 4 5 stitch to than when cover seam. TURN BACK Make exactly the same as for shirt made of double length to turn back or instead of at the top. 2— For 4 and the stitch. 34th St. and seven are omitted. but instead of facing. except that the top of the flat coat sleeve. underlap put right side of strip to right side of sleeve 3 — Turn back and stitch by machine on both sides of strips.

sore throat or nostrils. Hem tops and turn in bottom and both sides and stitch on garment. cough. Croup and Protection Against Pneumonia An old proverb says: "Never neglect a fresh cold if you would avoid sickness. headache. is very simple to make.—POCKETS.— Persons suffering thus are martyrs to every change of weather. throat. Then draw your thread from the top mark in a straight line to the bottom mark and back again on the opposite side of the goods. The lap must be cut on an exact grain of the goods and should be lined with silk or some light material. except that their outer edge is usually joined in the facing or with the seam of the ruffle. tightness at the root of the nose. It does not operate on the douche principle merely drying up and washing out the secretions. Such you have in Zoa-Phora Cold Cure. The most trifling exposure renews the attack. Page 49 . Pengelly's Sure Shot) FOR Colds. brow or cheek. The lap pocket as shown in the figure of the coat in Lesson 96. The pocket should be of heavy mercerized goods made into a pouch the desired depth.Lesson 73. and stitch on the lap. ZOA-PHORA COLD REMEDY Its improves the sight and hearing- most remarkable storing the impaired of effect is the clearing of the head. and_ revoice. it should be fastened as Measure one-eighth inch above and one-eighth below the slit and mark. but restores the parts to healthy action. and results. blurred eyes. together with the use of certain remedies in the treatment of the disease. A speedy and safe cure is invaluable. which treatment. been made at the bottom and both sides of the lap. convinced the Doctor that LaGrippe was (from whatever inducing cause) a sudden and general congestion attacking more or less the whole system. symptoms. is the only one very much in evidence these days. Back stitch the pouch into the slit of the garment and stitch on the lap. Sewing Apron pockets are made in the same way. Zoa-Phora La Grippe Remedy first invasion of the disease known as LaGrippe in this country. For partial list see page 96 of this book. and at the same time increasing the severity of the usual symptoms. Dr.: Sneezing. The patch pocket. Cough. These investigations. back stitch the pouch into the slit of the garment. rendering the disease still more difficult to treat. A NEGLECTED COLD. letting the needle pass through the entire thickness After a row of stitching has of threads from the bottom mark to the top. viz." More suffering comes from neglected colds than from all other causes. Penhad been a careful student of its nature. To keep the follows: Zoa-Phora Cold Remedy (Formerly Dr. dullness of hearing and smell. slit from tearing into the cloth. Since the tiilly now justly famous ZOA-PHORA LaGRIPPE REMEDY. the Price 50c per bottle The Zoa-Phora Cold Remedy and the Zoa-Phora LaGrippe Remedy are for sale at 50c per bottle at alllfirst-class drug stores. back and limbs sometimes with chilly sensations and nausea— will almost invariably meet and control the disease. SoreThroat. Repeat this process until you have firmly secured the slit— then bring the thread through and work over and over. if taken promptly on the first signs of the disease— known by aching of the head. hut showing its greater From these deductions. thus preventing a tedious and perhaps dangerous illness. as seen in Lessons 87 and 107. pain in the temples. Pengelly was led to formulate force on the weaker parts. etc. Dr.

but twice is better. Wool goods should nearly always be sponged and shrunken as should ginghams and linens. Shino Chemical Broom Cover. Shino articles. Ohio CHAPTER VIII. Ail 4" f* 522 ° Sweeney Ave. least once. r»l| Ine rioneerMrg. and in pressing sleeves one should shrink considerable of the fulness that is apt to occur on the inside seam of the arm at the elbow. just as a magnet attracts steel. Shino Chemical Handle Duster. garment to hold its shape better. all Sold by good dealers. attract dust.Shino Dust Absorbing Articles Reduces the Labor of Dusting and Polishing One-half. or sent postpaid by the manufacturers. have a hot flat iron conveniently near. but prevents its spotting and wrinkling so much. This is a slow process. Much of the beauty of a gown depends upon its pressing. rinsing in warm water good as new. Shino Chemical Floor Polisher. An electric flatiron is a great advantage to the woman doing her own dressmaking. with dust. while a poor presser can make the most carefully put together garment look badly. Shino Chemical Dust Mop. for a good presser can straighten out a multitude of little defects in sewing and stitching. always remembering it is almost impossible to put too much good press work on a garment. especially in making a wool garment. Page 50 . In pressing folds always see that the fold is perfectly straight. Cleveland. but your goods will Ginghams and stay fresh and in shape long enough to pay for your trouble.— SPONGING AND SHRINKING. Wool goods should be laid right side down and a wet Repeat at ironing sheet placed over it and ironed until it is perfectly dry. Always have a good piece of cotton long enough to cover the entire seam. f*. Dampen and iron till the cloth is perfectly dry then dampen once again and repeat the pressing. as the result of a marvelous chemical process. lint and germs. Lesson 74. Very thin goods should not be sponged Sponging not only helps your or shrunken. If you are not good at pressing it would be best to baste back your seams in their exact place until you get more accustomed to pressing them in place. linens should be dipped in water in which has been placed a handful of salt. especially anything with a mesh. Simplex Mop Handle. but in case one is not at hand one must always. Lesson 75. When filled makes them The The The The The The The Shino Chemical Dust Cloth. Shino Chemical Mitten Duster. wring out and then press until dry.— PRESSING. to.

No chance of wasting an inch of material mistakes. Pictorial Review Co. we show their patent cutting guide. 1 Before beginning see that you have every thing necessary to go ahead. just as an expert would lay it out in order to cut it from the least possible material.. (See Department 6). By courtesy of the CUTTING GUIDE 4-4/0 SIDE 6ftCK C^ POLO OP 36 INCH MflTERIflL WITH NAP BflO puzzling for hours to find how to lay out the pattern properly. — Page 51 . There is absolutely no chance of cutting one piece the wrong way of the goods. 823 Superior N. CUTTING. It shows just how to lay out the pattern on the goods correctly and scientifically. No CUTTING GUIDE 4069 FOLD more than you OF 54 INCH MATERIAL WITHOUT Pictorial NAP' their need. and no Mistakes are impossible with this guide before you.— CUTTING GUIDE. E. cutting guide a child Review Patterns are error proof and with can lay out and cut a garment as well as an expert. One accompanies every Pictorial Review pattern. No chance of cutting two backs or two fronts because a careless folder picked up two pieces instead of one.Main 2189 SEWING MACHINE SUPPLIES AND REPAIRS BRYSON CO. Central 2259-L For prices on any Sewing Machine or Supplies PHONE or CALL on Expert Repairer will Call and Give Estimate Lesson 76.

to 2 P. M. Main-2371-J C— 6417 r £ ar=H r=]G "N \ The Mandarin No. to 2 P. but get your own size otherwise the entire proportion of your garment 2 —Provide yourself style. Do not make the mistake of buying a pattern a size too large or a size too small.M. and one chosen with due regard for the material to be made up and for the occasion of the wearing of the garment. 622 Prospect Avenue ^n i — i i =ir=i i==i r=i i= ir^=: it=H Cleveland's Finest and Most Elaborate Chinese-American Cafe Shoppers' Novelty FROM 11 Luncheon A. M. Page 52 .with a good paper pattern for your size and suitable to height and individuality. After Theatre Parties a Specialty Private Dining Rooms Reserved for Dinner Parties Special Attention Given Ladies without Escorts Our Kitchen is Open for Inspection to Patrons from 11:30 A. your is thrown out when you start to make alterations.M.

baste it up and make all necessary alterations of the pattern (Lesson 77). flowered or have a design see that it all runs in the same direction. until you have made sure what it is and where it belongs.-. UnlO LakeWOOd. Ohio Selling Merchandise that bears the Stamp of Quality. then it fold. 4 Iron out every piece of your pattern and identify each section and if there is any doubt in your mind compare it with the similar piece on the construction guide. A RELIABLE STORE The Boston Dry Goods 8813-17 Wade Park Avenue 13592 Euclid Avenue 8601 Detroit Avenue 14712 Detroit Avenue Co. at prices that are no more and often less than elsewhere Good Values Courtesy Page S3 Progressiveness . The nap should always rub down except velvet.. which furnished free with every Pictorial Review pattern. Cleveland . This is of vital importance to the success of your garment. right angle of should rub up. and fit it perfectly 3 If — — — before cutting into the dress goods. being most wrinkles either pattern or goods. 6 Follow exactly the construction guide for laying on your pattern which you have altered to fit your figure. 9— When absolutely sure every piece in careful to have it perfectly flat and — errors. no properly laid on cut out with very sharp shears so the goods are not frayed or haggled and under no circumstances fail to cut out every notch indicated on the pattern. and will save you many possible is — 8— Pin down the pattern. and if your goods have a nap very strict attention must be given that the grain or nap lie in the same direction. for preparation.your goods are wool or gingham or such as need attention follow directions (see Lesson 74). and ac- cording to the construction guide. 5 If the garment has a lining cut the lining out first. goods are 7 When the width of the goods will permit lay the pattern on the double fur or plush. 11 —Then proceed to baste together as is directed in Lesson 77. 10 Then with tailor's chalk or with a colored cotton thread run a line showing all the marks and perforations of the pattern. Striped or plaid materials must be perIf the fectly matched so the strips run into the seams on the same angle. See that every piece is on precisely the — your material as designated on the construction guide.

making of waists. New York Lesson 77. and the upper part of coarse Net which forms just the right kind of a foundation for light waists. Grean System of Fitting. hours of time. constantly before you for it In the — CONSTRUCTION GUIDE 44JQ SLEEVE SECTIONS 'SIDE will BACK C plainly which pieces to join together and just where to join see that the notches correspond and that the seams are taken up on exactly the line shown and that each portion of your goods is in ar- them. and needs to be fitted only by adjusting the seams above the boned portions and on the shoulders.." "VOTES FOR WOMEN are not so necessary as 44 Greanet »» LOTS FOR Many WOMEN are buying Invisible Home of them Sites in Waist Foundations Are used in making light weight lace or chiffon waists where a t ght-fitting lining would be out of place. is shaped seamless belt. Do not attempt to put your garment together without this construction guide. We will supply you direct. Main 5283 Ground Floor 327-329 East 34th Street. Cen. 122 If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealers. beauboned. or the one accompanying your pattern. Williamson Bldg. 121. boning. which protrude above the belting and are finished with hooks and This is the new eyes. to be guided by the waist and not by the bust. It tifully BEACH GROVE improvements are being and homes erected. write us. putting on the hooks and eyes. #100 down and $10 month buys a lot 40x125 for $750.. 2044 Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. But if you decide to make your own lining or foundation the following directions must be carefully followed. show you Always Page 54 .— CONSTRUCTION. or through a reliable dealer. work and worry can be avoided by procuring the Grean Fitted Waist Linings and Foundations as it saves all of the labor of cutting basting. ONELLY 120. get off at East 152nd St. etc. These are made in Black and White. according to waist measure. The" made with a wide. Take Euclid Beach Car to Beach Grove on Lake where all installed Shore Boulevard. FITTING AND ALTERATION. specially for the summer or for warm climates.

Boned Girdle A SCREW is DRIVER.. It's with another time saver which herringbone belting hooks and the busy operator will surely appreciate. For Unlined Waists and Dresses USE Grean Shaped Seamless. The greatest of care should be taken in the basting up of the seams of your garment. Form Made wide of Finished handy tool to have around. for the effect lies in perfect lines and it is impossible to obtain these without good basting. but naturally. We shall be glad to demonstrate it at any time. but with the White you simply a very raise a latch.Have rpT?T T TIVT/^'C 1 EEd lULLllMjiS ICECREAM? CONSTRUCTION GUIDE4069 French . With a great many Rotary machines in order to remove the Shuttle one has to use a screw driver and take out three screws.. White Sewing Machine Co. you don't care to use it unnecessarily. for it takes time.«e .American cordance with the diagram of your construction guide. Your Dealer BOTH PHONES 426 Prospect Ave. r 35c at eyes Don't forget it! The White Rotary means more to you in a sewing way than you can think. If the garment has a lining. cut it out. put it together and fit it. Page 55 Sizes 22 to 33 inclusive Waist Measure. all necessary alterations before cutting into the dress goods. and make See cut 4410. Black or White ^.

Margaret B. Bell Main 3938 . Bell South 188-L Off. Monks Osteopathic Physician 302 Lennox Building Treatments by Appoin tmen t Res.Central Dr.

Skirts must be altered in the seams. Ohio Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister to Sept. being careful to keep a perfect seam line. The same general instructions of careful work and perfect fitting and correct alterations apply to the making of all garments. To take up skirt at waist. at the hip line of the front and side gores. that it is better to take up fullness as possible. and its length adjusted from the bottom or six inches below the hips. as alter. and fill in the hollow of the back by sanitary pad. much of the a hygenic and than absolutely necessary. two inches below the lower line of the Square or Sloping Shoulders. Baths Massage Madison. To alter for large abdomen. except the front and the front edges of the side gore seams. you will then be ready to cut into your dress goods. and the same general instructions apply. 1 Summer Camp Apply to the 1 Open July 1 to June Systematic Exercise and Recreation Young Women's Christian Association Prospect Avenue and 18th Cleveland. Or if skirt must be enlarged at waist. carefully but before the outside material is cut into you must know that your pattern and lining are both altered exactly right. between shoulders or across chest or at neck or armhole. Gymnasium Open Oct. well made gown. Ohio Page 57 . After you have properly cut and fit and altered the lining of the waist and measured and adjusted the pattern of your skirt.. 1 Boating Bathing Out of Door Life Turkish. and let out gradually the seams the deIncrease also the side sired width. than to alter the back of the skirt any more Fpr flat — the back seams. —Take arm up a seam. but do not alter any seams to remedy this trouble. 32nd Lake Grove Farm St. If the hips are too large. hole. until you have a perfect fit. for if too tight the skirt will wrinkle and draw.If garment wrinkles. alterations must be made from the shoulder seams and arm hole. Care must always be taken alter To for — — — not to take too large a seam across the hips. and gradually slant to meet the side back seams.To alter for very straight figures. If the hips are too small. which you are following in making the garment in hand and you cannot fail to have a well fitting. the necessary width. however. Begin six inches below the waist line and increase seam gradually until the correct size is obtained about the waist. Begin six inches below the waist line. Electric Light and Shower Rest West Side Branch Franklin and W. Begin six inches below the waist line of remembering. Begin six inches below the hip line and decrease the width of the seam. Then follow the specific instructions of the lesson. Begin at the same point six inches below the waist and decrease the size of the seam. extending each gore an inch at the top. Begin six inches below the hip line and gradually take up the seam. — — — and backs. edges of the gores.

We cannot be this if our livers are out of order and our complexion anything but what we would wish open pores. care or culture of that beauty which or less. together with an appreciation of the appropriate either with and the beautiful. CO. & P. Schofield Bldg. neatness. dressed —her gloves. certain. The skin can be made smooth. These unsightly. B. FROWNERS are for the lines between the eyes. telling marks of time. eyes or buttons ever missing and her shoes are always clean Her skirts always hang evenly and her belt never is out of place or shined. & P. SCIENTIFIC BEAUTY CULTURE. Both are put up in 25c. on receipt of price. the wrinkles erased and the beauty greatly increased by the nightly application of these well known B. dress. at birth. 50c and S1. handkerchiefs She always has her hair neatly and and neckwear and all her are immaculately clean and no rips. fairy-like figures and a painfully thin woman does not show good teste in wearing stripes and such combinations as are supposed to be worn only by women desiring to reduce the appearance of their size. safe. and above all her collar is always in perfect position and neatly fastened fancy pins or with invisible fasteners. skin dry and is — Frank Dowd DENTIST LOOK OLD? Wrinkles are only skin deep.00 boxes. Ohio CLEVELAND.— CHAPTER woman The well harmony and appropriateness of groomed becomingly fineries is XII. Wrinkle Eradicators Simple. THE WELL GROOMED WOMAN. OHIO Page 58 . (Two Women) 1790 East 68th Street Cleveland. postpaid. including booklet on care of face. If your dealer cannot supply you we will send by mail. The well groomed woman's clothes are never loud or conspicuous and the colors always harmonize not only with the occasion for wearing. more our duty to ourself as well as to others to be all that is bright and healthy and beautiful. but with her If she is inclined to be stout she does not wear plaids individuality and style. which make the face look old and cross are unnecessary— remove them with the Crown and Bridgework a Specialty B. contains no chemicals. Sold at drug and department stores. Seventh Floor. Scientific beauty culture means bodily and scientific —that to is. or reds or pinks or any of the colors or materials suitable only for slight. Wrinkle Eradicators. and gowns herself to express an innate sense of refinement and good taste. It Mother Nature gave the wisest everyone. leaves no marks. one who exhibits cleanliness. In fact the well groomed woman studies herself. tears or spots are ever visible and no hooks. & P.

strengthens the skin. Adair exclusively. Rue Chauvain REGISTERED TRADE MARK Page 59 . holGANESH EASTERN MUSCLE OIL braces sagging muscles. $6. dry skins. $2. which removes double chin and and the restores GANESH FOREHEAD STRAP ($4. with a line like a big wrinkle. including the Strapping Muscle Treatment. $3.00. a splendid face wash. ph one G reeley 1 3475 Bond New St. on looking sideways into our hand glass. $2.00. London. are the antithesis of "make-up". withered skins to velvety SUPERFLUOUS HAIR TREATMENT HYGIENIC smoothness.00. FACIAL MASSAGE. 75c. restores lined. pendulous — MRS. $2. WRITE FOR VALUABLE BOOK containing list of all GANESH Preparations and Treatments and much beauty information and advice.50. by antiseptic $2. LONDON 92 21 West 38th Street.50.50.00. Bottle. PARIS Cambo Cambon MIPP" ll*\_I-. sparkling eyes and a youthful contour. TIRED EYE TREATMENT restores tired. $5.50) lost contour. to become deeper day by day. W. GANESH DIABLE SKIN TONIC. $1.00. corners of eyes and over forehead. — MAIL ORDERS FILLED for all preparations and appliances on receipt of cheque. GANESH EASTERN BALM SKIN FOOD $3. lined. can be obtained nowhere else in the world. $1. Electrolysis is almost painless. illness and time.00) which cures deep lines between brows. which with maturer years will surely become a hard line between it and our original chin. Paris and Nice. These Imported Appliances.50. Bottle. NEW YORK. as they reach the CAUSE of all blemishes and re-establish by natural means a healthy complexion.00.unhealthy a state of neglect that makes the lines wrought by worries. closes pores and alleviates skin flabbiness and puffiness under the eyes. owned and patented by Mrs. Sometime we may be rudely awakened by finding. and in consequence there are flabby. originated. ADAIR'S GANESH TOILET PREPARATIONS AND FACIAL TREATMENTS obtainable for years only at her Salons in New York. $5.50. either that a gross ''double-chin" is beginning to form. discolored eyes to proper smoothness and fulness. for tender. $5. fills lows and removes wrinkles. Faithfully used they accomplish the most wonderful results everything that is claimed for them. 75c.00. or that the muscles and tissues of the cheeks have become relaxed. THIS PHOTO PORTRAYS THE GANESH CHIN STRAP ($5.

double chin and restoring a youthful contour. Adair at 21 West 38th them — St. hollows are formed in cheeks and temples. Your skin is not a dead thing to be left alone it is a sensative part of you. of eliminating deep frown lines. sole • Ellsworth. In youth the soft. 1V1<i to 6 p. in 2462 -J bags. 0. and the skin falls into lines and furrows.m. R. which are so clearly and thoroughly explained in the interesting and instructive book. No woman need lose the shape of her features nor the grace of her figure if she practices the Ganesh Exercises and Treatment. removing lines. effective treatment called the Ganesh Strapping Muscle Treatment. 0. DeLONG SKALLA Dermatologist and Chiropodist Page 60 . Mrs. teachers and the DeLong's Cucumber and Almond Massage Cream Used and recommended by Cleveland's best people. Y. Creme de Luxe 505 Hours S a. But when. it needs skillful. 0. yellow or blood-shot eyes are marvelously efficacious. Call owners of Ellsworth System. Buffalo. Ellsworth All Facial of College branches beauty science V. Adair's methods of reducing superfluous flesh.. or any other cause. 323 Euclid Ave." which you may have for the asking by mail or in person at the parlors of Mrs. to which so many women owe their rejuvenated appearance. and loses its beauty of coloring. New York. for into place. be one of them and Let Me Give You a Sample lar ELLSWORTH COLLEGE 514 Permanent Bldg. absorption of some of this fat takes place. Beckman Bldg. hanging on either side of the chin.OH ^ > 1VIY FOOT . 6U0 Madison Ave. For stores. rounded contour is maintained in all its attractiveness by the support afforded by the fat beneath it to the skin that lies smoothly over it like unwrinkled satin.KJ y- ' _• Creme de Luxe a delightful preparation to use in Does not wear place of powder. FULTON Manicuring and Chiropody Room 604 Standard Bldg. this even support of the muscles and skin is withdrawn. scientific and constant care. N. originators. is All foot troublespermanently relieved by scientific corrections under supervision of a surgeon. raises and gives back the youthful shape and appearance to the face.. MAUD 716 Permanent Bldg. taught. altogether altering the shape of the face and adding years to our age. it restores tone to the flabby muscles. Dr. Stone Prop. Personal instructions by D. Huron Bldg. from illness. Stone's Shoe Store Send 12 cents sale all for sample. of treating tired. off. MRS. but nothing has ever met with anything like the instant and entire success of the wonderful. "How to Retain and Restore Youthful Beauty of Face and Form. and filling out hollows. Our everyare graduates where. and Mine. exposed to heat and cold.. adverse climates. Toledo. Makes skin soft and velvety. Cleveland. There have been many treatments for the difficulties and for the cure of double chins. Cleveland Recommended by N.m.

21 — Aprons. must be considered case an incidental cost in you to are planning all on just so much at A few drops on your dustcloth does the work. —Hosiery. 26 Monarch Polish Not will fix it 29—Veils. — Union Suits. 24— Handkerchiefs. 20— Housekeeping Gowns. — Evening Gowns. 6— Sanitary Belt. 16— House Gowns. but in all of which restores the original brilliancy and lustre to furniture. 0. Often one does not know when to begin. 22— Millinery. Ties. 7 — Drawers. — Chemises. 30— Scarf.THE WARDROBE. 17 — Negligee Gowns. 18— Kimona. Below we give a list which will help you in planning and serve to remind you of the essentials of every woman's complete wardrobe. 23 — Hair Dress. —Sanitary Skirt Protector. pianos. when the subject of renewing their wardrobe presents itself. accessories. 28—Jewelry. and least 10 per cent of your entire appropriation for incidental be reserved expend- BAIRD BROS. Conno acid or injurious ingredients. 1 2 3 "Never Mind. Belts. hardwood finish and hard- Polishes and wood floors. & CO. — Corset Covers. 8 — Brassieres. especially if one is preparing their clothes in advance for the season or perhaps arranging for a trip or a visit or for some occasion where a rather complete outfit is needed. 9 — Corsets. — numerous mention. 12— Shoes. — Night Gowns. Page 61 . 13 — Traveling or Street Gowns. Large size bottle 25c at your dealers' money should itures supply your needs. Added too to these are the numberless trifles to tains a varnish dries instantly. 25 — Collars. Standard Polish for 35 years. 10— Petticoats. Mamma" 4 5 11 14 19— Bath Robe. 15 — Dinner Gowns. —Furs. Cleveland. 27 — Coats.

carefully made garment look its best. Dept.. the same as with any ordinary corset. in fact the foundation of your entire appearance to say nothing of your health and comfort lies in the well fitting corset. for the fit of your gown carriage. POSTPAID. and while supporting the bust. there are satisfactory. as it does not constrict the waist and is designed and cut on the idea of supporting the abdomen. F Manufacturers For Comfort 40 Lispenard St. N.(A) CORSETS. — We A Standard Pattern with our improved "Never-Slip Clasp" ( Patent Applied For ) Requires No Safety Pin Easily Adjusted in sizes Absolutely Secure Made 22 ins. but a well made can not only be worn with comfort but can be easily adjusted and will prove secure. neither will the most expensive. your entire wardrobe that should be given more There is no the grace of your careful attention than your corsets. your article in — not fit perfectly. gown will (C) SANITARY BELTS. heart In other words it will allow one to dress according to the and stomach. At All Dealers "W." High Grade Elastic Ladies' Improved Sanitary Side. like many other corsets do. B. that There is one small as article no woman should be they without but they either belt Sanitary Belt. Order large enough to drop well down over hips. & N. If sizes 22 inches to 48 inches inclusive. are but few more ruinous habits than the use of safety pins and is There improvised methods character. So much depends upon this one point. you are unable to procure it from your dealer. to 48 ins. inclusive. lungs. Ladies Improved Sanitary Belt and we have found no better on the market. Wright & Sons Co. send us his name and 25c for sample belt. it allows entire freedom and full expansion to the chest. Sizes of Belts are actual waist measure. of fastening and your outfit not complete without a belt of this have carefully examined the W. that the choice and judgement of the most experienced corsetiere should be consulted. but without the torture. E. many makeshifts on they are the market. Webbing at Front and Back Wm. latest styles.&N. for unless your corset fits your individual figure. and that is a are most unwill unless properly constructed not stay clasped or will not hold the napkins in place. We at all times recommend the Berthe May "Hygie" corset as we find its hygienic and physical advantages cannot be disputed. instead of pressing it down. New York City Page 62 .

nmde of a high grade white rubber muslin. less Beware of worthimitations. $1. women. made with lace net yoke affording perfect ventilation and can be readily laundered. The Ama Sanitary Skirt Protector has so many c salient featur. nurss people it is almost indispensable. and press it and always have it in perfect condition. odorless.(C) SKIRT PROTECTORS. and theatrical The excellent material used guarantees its wearing is made in medium large size selling at Price 50c. Call and let us demonstrate this article to you. Page 63 . O. but have never before been able to secure in an ideal form.00 each qualities. Always recogour United States. tourists. nize trademark before A1VIA CO. THE AMA Sanitary Skirt Protector Patented Sept. 1908 This garment and This article is fully protected Sanitary Skirt protector will be mailed to any address in the receipt of price the Upon Ama by patent. 22nd. have doubtless often realized. 117 purchasing.s that it cannot be ex elled for com ort. sanitary skirt protector a necessity to A AMA PSmmfW^ An article every is *^&™ woman will of welcome market THERE now on the the needa ready-to-wear which you wardrobe acce:sory. We recommend the skirt protector as one that will give entire satisfaction.00 and $2. For misses and business ladies in mode summer of ladies' attire or evening dress. It is absolutely waterproof. for one is never safe at certain times to wear their gowns and dainty underwear. fit and durability. The Ama Sanitary Skirt Protector is an article especially desirable for the present dress. CLARENCE BUILDING CLEVELAND. is every woman's wardrobe. If you get a good one you can wash unless a sure protection is afforded. as flexible as fine linen.

held in by patented " loop. Every careful dresser. effect There is no better (F) LINGERIE.ARBORj TEA SHOP Earner flat ^oppe where 6541 Euclid Avenue Exclusive Models in Dress and Tailored Hats. on receipt of price. off into the their eye as to color (E) SHIRT WAIST SUPPORTERS. but the majority of women Waist Cannot Be Displaced pyramid "Units" grip and keep waist from riding up. Dept. with so much pleasure at one's leisure time if handy with the needle. both French and Domestic. 17th St. Little rubber The "LOOP-HOLD" Shirtwaist BELT corrects a common fault in dress. skirt supporter on the market than is shown below. chemise. practical. Simple. Pat'ee &Mfr. elastic sides. gown as the waist There is nothing that ruins the entire appearance of a out of place above the belt line or perhaps showing a dividing line between the skirt band and the waist line. hat for business. when wearing a waist that is separate from the skirt.. the street or traveling should be selected of one of the soft plain shapes with simple trimming. CORNER SUPERIOR AND 105TH THE WARNER HAT SHOPPE considers it possible for every woman to have an Individual Style A Gift all Shop and Tea Room can be found Novelties in Art and Needle Work (D) MILLINERY. 1/ not at dealers. New York Page 64 . style and setting of one's face and features. great improvement over old style belts. Even though the edging and insertion be of fine lace or embroidery it will greatly add to the beauty of the garment to have at least a small floral design of hand work. No sharp points to hurt fingers. graceiul. Price 15 Cents. Metal parts cannot rust. at back. and if possible hand embroidered in any of the beautiful designs which can so easily be procured and done. but great care should be used that the selection be one that exhibits taste." take double hold without undue pressure. should wear a waist supporter in order that a good about the waist can always be relied upon. Self-acting buckle stays put. The night gown. refinement and a respect for the shape.. Many make these garments entirely by hand. Price 15 Cents at Department Stores AGENTS WANTED DAVID BASCH. S. but for church and theatre wear one A may branch more elaborate and trimmed effects and can satisfy and decoration of ribbons. sent postpaid. corset covers and drawers should be of dainty muslin or fine linen. feathers and flowers. 15 E.

be a cloth a rain-proof fabric of "Cravenette" proof is a process which The process permeates every fibre renders a cloth or garment water-proof. rendering the cloth permanently rain-proof, and rain will then of the yarns, You can have your coat, suit, wrap, or neither wet nor spot the garment. motoring garments made from the Priestley Cravenette Cloths, and you will If you are obliged to be out in all kinds of find your needs perfectly met. weather, rain or shine, you should by all means have a "Cravenette" rain-coat. We specify "Cravenette," because a genuine Cravenette-proof coat contains no rubber, is porous to air, yet rain-proof and has not the disagreeable odor common to most raincoats, and too, there is not the stiffness of the material, which renders many of the rain coats so undesirable and unattractive. The Cravenette-proof process leaves the cloth just as supple as before and every The main point to bear in fibre of the yarns is made thoroughly rain-proof. mind is to get a rain-coat that is strictly hygienic, keeping the dampness out without preventing ventilation. However, if you are only out in an occasional sprinkle or shower, a rain-coat is unnecessary, but you should have a street
to

(G) RAINCOATS AND people imagine Cravenette some sort but such is not the case.

WATERPROOF GARMENTS.

Many

or business or traveling suit

made

of

any of the Priestley cloths of serviceable
twill,

and wearable mohair suitings, serge, chevoit, whipcord, etta, which you can get "Cravenette" proof.

taffeta,

henri-

How
•/.
BE6USPAT OFF.

to Tell

This circular

registered trademark
l

Silk y^^y^pti^^fiyci^ Labe

is

stamped on the inside and a sewed at the collar or elsewhere.
is

None Genuine Without Them
The )££L~,.
all

applied to many kinds of cloth suitable for outer garchildren's men's, women's and ments in light, medium and heavy weights for seasons of the year, and are for wear in rain or shine.
-4Sf
is

" Rain Will Neither

Wet Nor Spot Them."

They con t ain no Rubber, have no

disagreeable odor; will not overheat or cause perspiration.

For sale by leading dealers in Men's, Women's and Children's Clothing.

t^Q^/ft2^t§#., Lt4
Bradford, England

K&4a*wwfit&t^.,USA
Hoboken, New Jersey

(^
A
postal to the

^^%/yy^
Bradford, England

New York

office of

B. Priestley

&

Co., 100 Fifth Avenue, will bring interesting booklet.

Page

65

A DROP OF OIL
is all

right in

its

place, but

it's

an

annoyance, and more than that, when it gets on goods that you are anxious to keep clean. The oil cup on the White Rotary prevents all trouble of the kind. It's a trifle, but

by attention to the little things that make the White Rotary the very best machine you can buy. Our terms will surprise you by their
it is

reasonableness.

White Sewing Machine Go.
426 Prospect Ave.

BOTH PHONES

Lesson 78.— CORSET

COVERS.— Cut

out

(Lesson

76),

of

embroidery,

nainsook, muslin, sheer lawn, linen, or any thin fine material.
tucks (Lesson 54). Join seams with French seam (Lesson 47).

Make

Hem Hem

fronts.

peplem and

fit

Gather at waist line son 64). Finish neck and armholes with embroidery scallops (Lesson 22), or face on right side with very fine embroidery. See Lesson 53.) Embroider any desired design (Lessons 19-25 inclusive). Make eyelets and run in ribbon to hold in fullness (Lesson 25). Close with small buttons and buttonholes (Lessons 29-30).

(Lesson 65). and make band of goods or of beading for belt (Les-

Lesson

79.— DRAWERS.

Cut out (Lesson

76).

Join with either plain or French seams.

(See Lessons 41 and 47.)

Face both sides of opening (Lesson Face around top for belt (Lesson
Put on
ruffle

53).
53).

(Lesson

56).

Make buttonholes (Lesson 27). Sew on buttons (Lesson 30).

Page 66

have not the time to put so much personal labor on their wardrobe, but the character of a woman is more easily discerned by the daintiness, prettiness and completeness of her lingerie, than by the beauty or elaborateness of her best gowns.
In France, a bride has never less than 12 pieces of each article of underwear beautifully done by hand work and exhibited with great pride to all her
friends.

buying and making these garments that your lingerie with care will last for many years to come, and you can afford to put more time and expense on them than on your outside garments that change style, color and design to suit every whim and caprice of fashion.

Remember

in

Lesson 80.— CHEMISE. Procure a good chemise pattern and make exactly as instructed in (Lesson 79), on the making of night gowns.
Lesson 81.— NIGHT GOWN. Cut out (Lesson 76). Join with dainty French seam (Lesson Embroider neck and edge of sleeves (Lesson 22), or fact on the right side with any desired trimming of embroidery or lace fine (Lesson 53). Embroider desired design. (See Lessons 19 to 25 inclusive).

47).

Make eyelets (Lesson 25) neck, and draw about through ribbon to adjust
fullness.

Hem

(Lesson

48).

Lesson 82.— COMBINATION UNDERGARMENTS. Cut out (Lesson 76). Fit carefully (Lesson 77). Join all seams with French seams (Lesson 47). Set in yoke (Lesson 65). Put on beading and edging (Lesson 57). Sew on ruffle (Lesson 56). If for open drawers face both sides of opening (Lesson 53). Close with small buttons and buttonholes (Lesson
29-30).

3275

Page 67

Stitch the facing down securely. soft flannels or in fact almost any pretty Have your negligee gowns as attractive as your skill fabric may be used. lawns. for it is the dainty feminine expression of lingerie and negligee garments that expresses the refined womanly tastes and will prove of pleasure to you so long as they last. Parrish Funeral Director Bell Phone. house and evening gowns. QBE Lesson 84. business and traveling gowns.— PETTICOATS. Make buttonholes (Lesson 29). but have them made the proper length to wear with your For your sireet. GUI Chapel in Connection Jay P. and where the fullness commences make a slit on each side and insert a tape. Face top (Lesson 53).— SKIRTS AND UNDERWEAR WITHOUT PLACKET. Join ruffle (Lesson 56). drawing it through the slit on the opposite side. Page 68 . dimities. heatherbloom or even a good quality of sateen is preferable. Face upper edge of the garment (see Lesson 53). The slit should be carefully worked with the button hole stitch (Lesson 24).Lesson 83. Hem (Lesson 48). silk. East 135 1738 East 55th Street Cut out (Lesson 76). The material can be of large figured silk. Join seams (Lesson 41). DRESSING SACQUES AND KIMONAS. Sew on buttons (Lesson 30). fleece lined goods. Have plenty of white skirts plain or elaborate to match your other lingerie of your outfit. and means will permit. challie.

LADIES! Why

not go to the

"Shop

of

Kimonas and Art Laces"
ONE-HALF
Call At
before buying ?

and Save

150 The Arcade
And
See Our Beautiful Designs and Get Our Low Prices

Lesson 85.— DRESSING
Cut out (Lesson
76).

SACQUE.

Lay Sew

pleat in back.
all

seams.
48).
56).

Hem

bottom (Lesson
ruffles

Gather on

(Lesson
53).

Face collar (Lesson
Shirr
sleeves
at

elbow and shirr around

waist (Lesson 55), and finish with dainty
of bright ribbon at the waist.

bow

3591

Lesson 86.— KIM ON A.

Cut out (Lesson

76).

Sew

all

seams on machine.
48).

Hem

bottom of garment (Lesson

Make yoke and attach (Lesson 65). Make sleeves and put in (Lesson
5-8).

69,

omitting

Face edges and sleeves (Lesson

53).

The

facing should be of satin or

some

contrast-

ing shade of the same or a lighter material.

Q^FDon't
on
-page 4-

overlook the

new

scientific drugless treatment

explained

Page 69

Lesson 87.—APRONS.

Aprons are the simplest of all garments to make, No. 3857 is especially easy to make. Cut out goods (Lesson 76). Face all edges (Lesson 53). Make pocket (Lesson 73)." Make one buttonhole and sew on button (Lessons 29-30).

No. 3180 requires a little more time and effort. Cut out (Lesson 76). If embroidery for ruffle, bib and pockets is not used hem ruffle (Lesson 48). Face bib and pockets (Lesson
53).

Put on ruffle (Lesson 56). Put on pockets (Lesson 73). Gather and join bib to skirt of
apron.

Put on band (Lesson 64).
385?

KlL UNSTRUNG-

Is This the

Condition of

Your Nerves?

Is that the condition of your nerves? If so, your system is just like the violin shown above; utterly unable to perform the work for which it was intended. Until there is an improvement in these conditions, there is no chance for harmonious action between the various organs of the body. The office of the nervous system is to control and direct the vital forces. If the nerves are not strong, healthy and in proper tone they cannot do this work any more than can the violin give forth sweet and melodious music when "all unstrung."

You Do Not Need

mmk

Is
is

a Nerve STIMULANT, But a NERVE Food. a Nerve Food and Strength Builder.

At the same prepared especially to build up and strengthen the nervous system. time it purifies the blood and regulates the circulation, so that the nerve centers may distribute the vital forces to the organs in need. If you'are only slightly nervous, you ought to take ZOA-PHORA at once and thus thwart the onward march of the disease. If your nerves are already in such a shattered condition that they are threatened with nervous prostration, ZOA-PHORA will give you relief and strengthen your nervous system.

Read Page

95 for the Special

ZOA-PHORA

Oiler

Page 70

Lesson 88.— LINGERIE WAIST. Choose your pattern and
follow the instructions of

Lesson
shirt

90,

on

waists,

altering

making by

selecting the

desired design and effect and mak-

ing according to
Sleeves, Lesson 69 or 70.
Collars, Lessons 66, 67 and 68. Yoke, Lesson 65. Trimmings and Finish, Lessons 54, 57, 58 and 62. If a Lining is desired make according to Lessons 76 and 77.

40S5

Lesson 89.— HOUSE KEEPING GOWNS. Your house keeping gowns should be of percale or gingham or some wash goods so that at all times you can be immaculately clean. Have them made plain and simple so they can be easily gotten into and also have your aprons large, and of a material that washes neatly. Use instructions (Lesson 76), taking steps according to numbers; X-l, X-5, X-7, X-8, X-9, X-15. Then put on facing about sleeves, neck and down front and belt (Lesson 53). Now hem skirt (Lesson 48). Sew on buttons and make buttonholes (Lessons
29-30).

"It's

Easy to Pay the Rosenblum Way"

STYLISH GOODS Woman
For Man,
or Child

$1.00

PER WEEK

pays the bill

WE GIVE STAMPS
We Make Good Unsatisfactory Purchases We Never Misrepresent
GIVE US A CALL

M. Rosenblum

Credit Clothing Co.

2014 Ontario St. Cor.^hamplain
Mr. Rosenblum Himself

Page

71

front and back. Waists. turning to the specific lesson as indicated.There Must Be a Reason Why our business new customers month. do not handle any premiums nor give trading stamps (the customer.00 a Week Payments Complete furnishers — Hats. —We will give directions for making gown 4533 as contains nearly every element and requires the explanation of nearly all points of dressmaking. Our operating expenses are low. 2 Join with plain seams (Lesson 41). All Goods Sold on $1. Suits. Coats. 9 Lesson it 91. 4 Form box pleat in right front. — GOWNS. — — Make buttonholes and sew on buttons (Lesson 29-30). pays for both at all stores where they give them). Upstairs Lesson 90. etc. and leave collar loose. Shoes. The quality of our merchandise is the best and our guarantee of absolute satisare not in the faction is given with every sale. 8 Make collar (Lesson 66). and stitch on both sides of pleat. 6—Make sleeves and attach (Lesson 70). Skhts. — — — — — — Hem the underside of the front closing. and attach or put on neck band (Lesson 64). Jewelry.—A shirt waist is something it seems no one has too many of they are so useful and so necessary for so many occasions and can be constructed of such a variety of fabrics and in such a wide range of styles. By following these instructions carefully and faithfully. Hundreds of are added to our already large patronage every is There We We is a Reason — High Rent District. you cannot fail to develop your Page 72 . — Gather at waist 5 7 line in and attach a belt or stitch bias band to hold gathers secure. & Pacific Tea Company's Store 2165 Ontario Street. Dresses. of course. CLEVELAND CREDIT CLOTHING Over Atlantic CO. 3 Fit and make any necessary alterations (Lesson 77).— SHIRT WAIST. 1 Cut (Lesson 76). We do not have any collectors. growing by leaps and bounds.

Ptawi 3fttBtrufitum .

departments on cooking. The fiction stories in PICTORIAL RE- VIEW The are equal to the very best you can get anywhere. plain. in the politics which make taxes high and her rent accordingly higher. tasty dishes described in PICTORIAL REVIEW'S COOKING DEPARTMENT. She is looking for more information constantly and PICTORIAL furnishes that knowledge. REVIEW The Pictorial Chicago Paris Review Company St. You had better subscribe now and find out about our magazine and our patterns.16 17 — Face bottom of skirt (Lesson —Sew on hooks and eyes (Lesson 53). making as low or as high cut gown as desired. etc. are written by experts and their information is practical and daily useful. She is very properly interested in the schools which her children shall attend. housekeeping. If you wish to please your husband's palate just give him some of the good.. and in harmony with the an evening gown the upper portion of both lining and material of the waist can be cut away. materia! Any ornamentation suitable to the occasion to be worn may be used. Charming Lingerie Frocks Smart Street Toilettes Afternoon Dresses in Foulards and Taffetas New and Fascinating Evening Gowns An Alluring Assortment of Lace Blouses in the New Casaque and Peplum Styles The PICTORIAL REVIEW is not wholly a fashion magazine although it carries more and better styles than any fashion magazine published. marketing. home decoration. a necessity in every home. and in many other subjects which are of vital importance to her daily living. find that she considers "home" to be the city. The household departments in PICTORIAL REVIEW. They make the so-called "fiction-magazine" unnecessary. New York London Headquarters: Louis Berlin San Francisco Vienna St. special articles in PICTORIAL are on subjects of interest to women. The up-to-date American housewife is a thinking woman. It is Its suggestions. 222-224-226 W. With these departments before you a magazine devoted wholly to housekeeping is a needless extravagance. PICTORIAL REVIEW is "The Magazine for Women. state and nation in which she lives. 39th NEW YORK Page 74 . in life insurance which cares for her REVIEW We We when the bread-winner is suddenly taken away. 59)." It covers every range of woman's activity completely. believe that the real American woman does not consider "home" to be just the house in which she lives. its ideas will save much more than the cost of the magazine for a year. In short. The May Co. For To be Dressed Styles in the Latest Fashion Select Your from the Season's Number The PICTORIAL REVIEW FASHION BOOK For sale by The May Costs only 5c When Purchased with a 15c pattern For sale by Co..

Select carefully your materials with a view of perfect keeping with social demands and associates. 'Make exactly according to Lesson 91. and the panel is used instead of the — GOWN — all-over flounce. except the breteile is crossed in the front instead of the back. but for younger women prettiness and daintiness and attractiveness should be the aim rather than richness. . when the same amount of money expended in two or three simple evening frocks would have constantly served to the pleasure and needs. or as magnificent as her station in life demands. Lesson 93.Lesson 92. as often too elegant evening gowns lie your unused and unenjoyed. Main . Phones 4598 Central 1379-W .—EVENING AND DINNER GOWNS. elegance or elaborateness. Every wardrobe should hold as many evening gowns as the individual will have need of. For making see Lesson 91. and a number of cheap inappropriate useless garments purchased when one good garment of a more suitable nature would have been a better investment. for a season 30. yet sometimes the other extreme is met. and they should be as simple.

Boarding Home Transient Accommodations Employment Bureau Travelers' Aid .

. but the difference Some tailors sew cloth and canvas tolies chiefly in preparing the fronts.. to will make find a Those who are unable good tailor made front Grean's Tailor Made Coat for Front Foundations to be almost a necessity. They in are a made variety upsuit to-date styles to different coats. and at the top. but you can detect cheap worthless coat front foundations by their stiffness. for a tailormade coat or jacket. gether and some tailors use fronts of canvas prepared separately to fit the outside. you will notice that it is It is not only a foundation over a complete coat front. in the shoulder. which can be purchased for much less than one can Accept no imitations or substitutes. are protected with a white linen stay. 50c to $1. will find coat. made of white French felt and edges of the best herringbone hair-cloth used for center stiffening. These tailor-made coat front foundations are made in different weights and lengths. A good sized arm-pad surrounding. but a tailored made coat front. but it is also part of a pattern by which one can be safely guided. "Tailor. them in medium weight variety to suit tailor suit. all heavy winter selves. must have more in it than an ordinary piece of canvas without preliminary preparations of careful sponging and shrinking. Tailor-Made Coat Fronts Foundations are distinguished by their beautiful shaping and tailoring and every season the shapes change according to the prevailing To those who have found difficulty in making coat fronts for themfashions.00 GREAN SHOULDER FORM & PAD CO. a wide button hole stay runs the whole length of the coat. which is usually nothing but glue. it will be a good lesson and example to study Grean ready made and tailor- made make coat front foundation.Lesson 96. lightweight silk or velvet Grean suits and fur garments. If your dealer cannot supply you write us immediately. from the short Eton coat to a 32 inch length coat so much worn now. You requirements. 34th St. you will find a Grean patented Shoulder form. The present styles demand soft coat fronts. They are all very soft and pliable. New York Page 77 . themself. There are several methods of making jackets and coats. but well tailored and firm enough to support and retain shape permanently. They are made of the best material appropriate for this purpose and are thoroughly sponged and shrunk. 327-329 E. The foundation for the front of your coat or jacket is very important. in and renders it unfit to be used your garment. from the lightest silks to the heaviest automobile garments.Made' ' Coat Front Foundation By examining the drawing alongside which shows the inside view of the Grean Tailor-Made Coat Front Foundation.— CLOAKS AND SUIT JACKETS. which the cloth is placed.

2 5).. 7 Join seams of lining. IS — Again press the entire garment. beautifully shaped and used in either short coats or long coats where only bust reinforcing is necessary and If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealer's. sew up seams in desired manner (Lesson 41). — 8 Baste goods over lining and try on and fit perfectly (Lesson 77). and press seams open. —Make buttons and buttonholes (Lessons 29 and 30). all 77). 5 Short Coat-Fronts Short Coat Front. 1 1 5). 14 — Make sleeves (Lesson 72). for much of the beauty of the coat or cloak depends upon this part. above directions you will be able to work out a well fitting. There is 4 — Lay on goods (Lesson 76— to — Cut out lining (Lesson 76— 3 — Baste up lining seams (Lesson — Fit and make necessary alterations (Lesson —'Cut outside material (Lesson 76—6-11). in any style or manner desired. 16—The trimmings can then be sewed on. write us.no more particular work in dressmaking than the proper tailoring of a jacket or coat and you should never attempt to make one of these garments in a hurry. (Lesson 73). press and sew turning in the lining to 13 — Make collar and attach (Lesson 67). 327-329 East 34th St. in. 10 11 — — — Make and put pocket — Put in lining right side in 5). nicely finished garment and the saving of doing this work yourself will allow you to put extra money into a better grade of material than otherwise you could choose or you can practically buy the goods for another suit. made of Hair-Cloth. and press (Lesson 75). GREAN SHOULDER FORM & PAD 6 CO. 35 to 50c 50c lost its original shape. We will supply you direct or through a reliable used in garments where a coat front of canvas has been already used but has is extensively altering dealer and send you a catalogue of other dressmaking helps. 9 When an exact fit has been obtained detach from lining. You can purchase made at any of our advertisers carrying Grean dressmaking supplies. out and attach with very small slant stitches (Lesson 12 cover the seam. NEW YORK — Baste ready in these bust forms of hair cloth or soft canvas. No work or stitches should be left visible on the lining. strict attention to the By paying Page 78 . 3).

Read on the last page of this book your druggist' special offer to you of a free ten days' treatment of these Cones. reliPRICE. safe. but in in- stances the clothing must be loose and comfortable and both the dress and underwear should be Special attento supported tion from the shoulders. They contain Nerve Tonics ANTISEPTIC which are absorbed into the Blood and VITALIZING COHES Give Vitality to the Whole System. The herself outfit an expectant mother prepares for entirely depends upon what her duties all require of her during this period. The Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones have in the past years permanently relieved thousands upon thousands of women and the price of a month's treatment for 50 cents makes them within the reach of all. The Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing KALAMAZOO. CHAPTER XIII. MICHIGAN. has been found. but the comfort of the individual to a large extent depends upon these two things. Cones are a female suppository.. ^6. Page 79 . ZOA-PHORA CO. 50 CENTS. must be given the matter of corsets and the lining of the gowns. Beware of dangerous imitations that contain mineral and poisons and which have'no established fifty reputation. as not only the appearance. Proprietors. MATERNITY OUTFIT. L able and effective. They allay Inflammation and heal the irri71. Ten days' treatment will convince you that no matter how serious your condition a positive relief Sample free upon request. P^t^£L. a tated parts.ZOA-PHORA Antiseptic Vitalizing CONES Are for local treatment and are antiseptic in their action on Diseased Tis- sue and Unhealthy Conditions.

to preserve a normal appearance and to attend to their every -day vocations.00 to $18. as it can be worn at any time.. 10 E. enables women to dress as usual. abdominal support at all times. 46th St. thus affording the comfort and safety so necessary in a weakened condition of the abdomen. 15 Which will b. The most celebrated maternity corset that has come to our notice is the Berthe May "Lucine" corset. thanks to its exclusive and It procures an absolute simple system of gradual enlargement. No — Page 80 . as her own health and that of her child would be materially injured by such a course. Physicians use it in their own families aud prescribe it to their patients. and yet with its own particular advantages. to preserve a normal appearance.. Every woman should have this corset in her wardrobe.00 Write for free booklet No. expectant mother should go without a corset. as well as during the maternity period. and it can be reduced to a normal size and worn as long as desired after the child is born. BERTHE MAY. and upon examination and investigation we find that the "Lucine" corset is so constructed that it can be worn as early as wanted. the same as an ordinary corset. Prices from $5. on account of the healthy support which it gives both the abdomen and to the back. Mfr.BERTHE MAY'S Maternity Corset The only corset of this kind made for its own purpose. It is manufactured to be an absolute safeguard against all accidents for the mother as well as for the child. in a normal condition. to deport herself with the greatest comfort. sent under plain envelope. A maternity corset must combine as an abdominal support and a corset in fact it must be a protection to the abdominal walls against too great relaxation and yet must serve to give grace to the figure and to make it possible for her to go about and be active during the entire period. New York (98)— MATERNITY CORSETS. which can be opened successively when more room is needed. together with photographic reproductions and full information. Orders by mail filled with absolute satisfaction because of my perfect yet simple measurement system. but she should never wear the ordinary style and cut. through a system of inside plaits of the material. The Lucine corset can be made gradually larger when wanted. to be used whenever needed. and allows the mother to dress as usual. and to attend to her customary vocation during the whole term of her pregnancy.

) QA~rt X REMEDY CO. Lesson 100. - Zoa-Phora Ten minutes of this Pile Remedy PILE ZOA-PHORA KALAMAZOO. MICHIGAN.. easy stretching elastic band is used for the belt. reliable and satisfactory treatment. how serious your case you will find the ZOA-PHORA PILE the one safe. and extending to the bottom of the waist lining. PRICE.— MATERNITY SKIRT. list of of time and 50 cents for a full month's treatment well-known meritorious effective Remedy. tion at the top for lengthening front and sides. 50 CENTS. but it is seamed and faced and finished the same as given in the regular lesson on It should have a good sized pleat at each seam.— MATERNITY GOWN. maternity skirt is cut after a special maternity skirt pattern. 3916. for making. Accept no substitute. will forever convince you that to suffer with this disease is positively unGo to your Pull directions in each package. A IT /*phOHA (Trade Mark. and an extenskirt making. Proprietors. and the dart seams either side from the shoulder faced back (Lesson S3). Instead of making starting in the usual way the lining has dart seams from the shoulder and the center of the neck. necessary. and lace down with linen or elastic The band from which rather loosely fitted is the front of the skirt from exactly under the necessity to enlarge. is arms where there but little Allowance must be made that enough goods left at the top of the skirt to extend the front and sides will as the figure demands in order that the skirt hang evenly all way around. and a very pliable. except the lining is finished altogether differently. Sample sent FREE upon request. falls is eyelets (Lesson 25) on both sides of all three openings. Cleveland's best Toledo. Make lacing.Lesson 99. REMEDY— known See page 96 for ZOA-PHORA REMEDIES COMPANY. The instructions found in Lesson 91. make this gown perfectly. See instructions (Lesson 76). The opening down is the front shoulder is hemmed back. druggist today ana procure a month's treatment before your No matter disease becomes more deep seated and chronic. Ohio full line of druggists who handle the Zoa-Phora Remedies Page 81 . See cut of lining at top of Fig.

for during the pliable age. Do not make the mistake of going without sufficient underwear and of a quality to give you sufficient warmth and have all of your lingerie plain and dainty. You will find on the following pages suggestions of appropriate styles for your gowns. — Hosiery. enrich 4— Handkerchief s. — House gown. — Shoes. Get your shoes of sensible style and thickness and large enough to be comfortable regardless of the season or fashion. 8— School dress. — — Night gowns. 4 5 Growing Girls For over 50 years Zoa-Phora has proven an invaluable remedy to meet the needs of weak. 18— Corset waists. for every girl entering womanhood. sickly girls and women. 20— Cloak. — Light warm woolen 2— Under vests.CHAPTER IV. together with complete instructions for the making of them and if you are a wise girl you will begin with the first lesson of this book and master every point of plain and fancy needlework for it is one of the most refined acquirements possible for a gentlewoman to attain. suits. as it will give you all the beautiful curves and angles without the discomfort and danger of the modern corset. Pengelly's pri- 13— Millinery. 10 — Party dress. opiates. 9 — Church dress. build up the tissues^strengthen the nerves and put the entire constitution in harZoa-Phora is monious condition. while you are growing you can seriously injure yourself and your health. 15 —Collars and ties. purely a vegetable compound no alcohol. by wearing a badly fitted corset. 21 — Furs. Zoa-Phora is Dr. belts and acces- sories. 1 vate prescription for women. 16 17 Read our Special Offer Page 96 of this Book. nervous. Special attention should be paid to your corsets. 12— Hair ornaments. especially~compounded to purify and the blood. To the girl after her who is away from home wardrobe we have made out a most useful in list or the one without a mother to look of necessary articles and you will find the list planning your wardrobe. narcotics or other dangerous or harmful drugs. 6 7 — Petticoats. We would recommend the Berthe May "Hebe" Corset. 11 —White petticoats. All of your garments should be simple and Page 82 . — Combination corset 1 combination 3 covers and -WOMAN'S FRIEND FOR drawers. THE SCHOOL GIRL'S WARDROBE. 19 — Sweater. — Bath robes.

girlish. 32nd Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister Choral Classes Bible Classes Page 83 .— Make has exactly according to Lesson 91.— ting GOWN if 3911. whose youth and its natural qualities need no artificial adornment. omit- hemming. Collar (Lesson 63). CLEVELAND. and without collar Lesson 101. — GIRLS SCHOOL shirt waist DRESS. the material if embroidery omit omit Xll. and if no lining X2— X6. whose natural charms are beginning to wane. Piano and Apply to the Junior and Industrial Mandolin Lessons Orchestra Practice Young Women's Christian ^Association Clubs Prospect Avenue and East 18th Membership Parties St. OHIO West Side Branch Franklin and W. gorgeous effects suitable for the stage or at best for older women. Follow instructions for (Lesson 89). edge. shown is one widely approved of and very popular for graduating. Lesson 102. Skirt (Lesson 95). dainty garments will win for you a thousand fold more admiration than magnificent. GIRL'S DRESSES. made exactly on the same principle as a lady's dress. Follow instructions for making as found in LesGirl's dresses are The son style 91. sensible. as nothing is more unattractive than rich elegant garments worn by a sweet faced girl. Remember immaculate. party and summer dresses.

— CHILDREN'S DRESSES. O. poplins. every instance possible should be of wash etc.00.. Quickly cures Croup. ginghams. collar 68). Cleveland. $1. Especially pre- sewing where an economical wife and mother can save to more advantage than in by doing the work herself the making of the children's clothes. clean. percales. 5 oz. Colds. Prevents bronchial diseases. Every mother desires to see her little this requires 12 oz. In the latter instance the guimpe or sleeves it and yoke should always be of wash goods. 56). sleeves and put in (Lesson 69). Hem Close (Lesson with dainty buttons and small button- holes (Lessons 29-30). There is perhaps no department of WHOOPING COUGH DUNHAM'S SPECIFIC. more labor and is care and expense than usually figured on. flannel. so we do not take up space in giving this instruction. so that It is can be kept perfectly hardly economical to make boys clothing after they leave the "Buster Brown" period. 50 cts. At Druggists. Make 54).CHILDREN'S CLOTHES. plain (Lesson 41). Used in Cleveland Orphan Asylums 20 years. M'f 'rs. repps. and linens. Physicians recommend it. pared for Whooping Cough. or French seams (Lesson Make Make Make ruffles and attach (Lesson (Lesson 48). Shortens and lightens the disease. ones daintily dressed and Lickes Drug Co. severe Coughs. piques. Page 84 . Lesson 104. novelty goods or any warm material must be worn. seams. but in the winter either underwear heavy enough to fully protect the child from the cold must be provided or woolen dresses of serge. all tucks in goods before cutting (Lesson Cut (Lesson Close 76). bot.. The main goods such as point in planning children's garments in is to have them as plain and appropriate as possible. bot. either 47).

and sew on buttons (Lesson Fasten up back with washable buttons. and make buttonholes or sew on loops of elastic cord.Lesson 105. Face waist armholes. is edging used overcast on neatly (Lesson 57). bottom of (Lesson Hem If . seam hidden by the facing 4483 Page 85 . Lesson 106. S3). Cut out (Lesson Join 76). is The cape joined at may be lined or unlined and the neck.— CHILD'S COAT. except shoulders a of ruffles over the cape if desired may be made. drawers (Lesson 48). 47). French seams (Lesson neck. Put 64). band on drawers to (Lesson make buttonholes button on waist (Lesson 29).— CHILDREN'S WAISTS AND DRAWERS. Sew line a bias band around waist 30). the of the collar. A child's coat is made the after the same general instead principles as gown.

Make pocket (Lesson Make belt 73). usually a question as to just what they are to make. pared: three (white). To it ^3800 is the prospective mother. she usually prefers doing much of the work articles The Page 86 . and a layout containing all necessary toilet articles. and if mother has the time to spare. — ROMPERS. three petticoats petticoats (flannel). child and saves the mother much care and thought concerning his clothes. one veil. (Lesson 64). INFANTS WARDROBE. six pair hose. CHAPTER VII. one coat. Make sleeves (Lesson 69). brush. six bands. tal- cum powder. one cap. three sacks. especially one expecting for the first time. Cut (see Lesson 76). three wrappers. Sew up straight seams (Lesson 41). — Every mother should with rompers. three pinning blankets. Put on collar (Lesson 68). Gather at knees. one kimona. comb and safety pins. infant's etc. for they are a comfortable. one diaper cover.BELLE VERNON MILK the Best Milk Lesson provide her 109. little necessary to a child's wardrobe are very simple and easy to make. six night slips. three dozen diapers. so below we will give a list of absolutely nec- garments and articles together with an idea of about the number of each that the average expectant mother should have preessary Six dresses. sensible garment for the little one to play in. and how many of each article to make. six pair bootees. six bibs.

Sew on buttons (Lesson 30). While Preparing for the Coming of the Little One. The petticoat. and a rapid recovery of natural health and strength afterward. A rubber diaper should be made for protection on occasions § when you are traveling or taking your child away from home. This treatment is a positive aid in maintaining a good condition of health during confinement.— The dress is made the same as instructed (Lesson 104) child's dress except very much longer. Make buttonholes (Lesson 29). Cut (Lesson 76).Lesson 110.— MAKING THE INFANT'S OUTFIT. or if lace or embroidery edging is not used you may feather stitch around the edge of the collar and down the front on either side of the buttonholes and many prefer to feather stitch the hem (see Lesson 18). Sew on lace or fine embroidery edging (Lesson 57). The little flannel jackets are made in one piece and the edges should be The night gown. quick and easy delivery at birth. and should take regularly during the last month of confinement and for one or two months after birth. gown (Lesson 104). of Birdseye linen or Canton flannel. (see Lesson 106). both flannel and the dainty white ones are made under same instructions as Lesson 105. but it should not be worn at all times as the ordinary waterproof diapers are not porous enough to let the air properly to the child's body. and neatly hem by hand. be more vitally important that the organs of maternity of the mother be in a perfect state of health and strength to undergo this trying ordeal? The expectant mother should begin to take ZOAas soon as pregnancy is known from time to time as needed according to directions. the Mother's Health Should Be the First Consideration. Diapers should be made of good cotton diaper cloth. follow instructions for making child's PRINCESS SLIP. Kimona (see Lesson 86). embroidered or neatly bound with pink or blue ribbon. The coat. Make and attach collar (Lesson 68). the edges turned in and finished with an edging of lace or feather stitched. cut square. Hem bottom of skirt (Lesson 48). Bibs should be of double thickness. and made as daintily as possible. Hem back the fronts (Lesson 48). Make and put in sleeves (Lesson 69). Sew up seams (Lessons 41 and 47). CAN anything than PHORA Read the Special Offer as Given on Page 97 Ex pectant mothers can not afford to be without Woman's Friend Page 87 .

The cleaning of clothes and accessories of the dress is often a problem. M i(. must always be given to the nature of the spot and the material.«m. for a process or chemical that removes the spot from one material will set the stain in or ruin another material. You can do considerable for careful consideration mShT- ^!S>wb CLOTHES kept beautifully clean and in "crisp CUMMER'S Perfect (JAflVAS freshness" by every J^RESSING dainty housewife WITH CUMMER'S ffltCUMMEflPHODUCTSCO CltVEtAIO.0»«> ENERGINE I 'SHOE OMOINATION DRESSING" GOOD AT ALL C STORES wuwmu moms cs i ei«n. CUMMER'S SHOE DRESSINGS The Proper Dressing For EVERY Shoe Ask Your Shoeman Page 88 .CLEANING.

If on thin goods pour out a little alcohol in a bowl and rub out the stain. Grass Stains: Must be removed with alcohol. Ink Spots: There are many ways of removing ink spots. rubbing until the stain disappears. Auto Call Call Us Up —Phones. and it should always be kept on hand to keep However. or if on white goods.THE UNIVERSAL DRY CLEANSING // it isn't CO. so the main point is to alcohol that removes the have your cloth well saturated with the alcohol. felts. Rub pure lard on stain and leave for a few hours. and Delivery Service. in which has been added a mixture of equal parts of "Elwako". where you can depend upon your work being properly done. laces. salt or flour until you have absorbed all the ink possible. then wash in tepid soap suds and proceed as for blood stains. Cocoa Stains. there are many garments your articles in good fresh condition. kid gloves. woolen. then wash in sweet milk and rinse in clear tepid water. Down Town Store 532 Euclid Avenue your own cleaning at home by using Cummer's Energine. which will clean woolen goods. and rinse thoroughly in clear tepid water. stain and not the rubbing. then pour boiling water through the of perfectly — — — spot until the stain has entirely disappeared. silk or cotton can most effectively be removed with Cummer's Energine full instructions for its use are found on the bottle. Fruit Stains: Follow directions as for removing coffee stains. then wash in tepid soap suds and proceed as lor removing blood stains. feathers and almost anything cleanable. Boil from 20 to 30 minutes. Nevertheless you will need a few suggestions for removing the spots and clothes and which you may desire to stains that are so apt to get on your try to remove yourself. Grease Spots on any fabric. if the goods can be boiled. then rinse and wash carefully in tepid soap suds. and care should be taken to select a reliable place. dry cleaned. silks. If the article is such that it can be boiled. leathers. and then rinse in ammonia water. General Offices and Laboratories \2\$ tO 1230 East 71st St. dip It is the a cotton cloth into the alcohol. or if the ink — — — — Page 89 . If the spot is still moist cover with sugar. Brass Stains. that must be otherwise your article may be returned to you ruined. We give you in these pages the addresses of first class establishments. and good laundry soap. Coffee Stains:— Do not soak or put into soap suds until boiling water has been poured through the cloth until the stain is removed. furs. Soak in cold water. Then follow directions as for removing blood stains. if the stain is on a washable article. it should then be put in very hot water. soak the stain in salts of lemon. Blood Stains: Soak the stains in cold water over night. "Universal Dry Cleansing" It isn't the best. or if on heavier goods.

Cold on the Lungs. or rub out the spots in equal parts of turpentine and alcohol. Spots: — Rub out in kerosene and wash in tepid soap suds and rinse in clear tepid water. and one ounce of chloride of lime. Bruises. Catarrh and Colds in the Head. or oxalic acid until the ink has been removed. Scalds. rinse in clear tepid water. For Chapped or Cracked Hands. Bell Phone 2192 / [J Cleaners for Particular People Edd y r ^*^/S-r T s**n f^k C-5 Cuy. — Mildew: Soak in buttermilk spread on grass in sun. Burns. Or you may soak the stain in salts of lemon. Insect Bites. times Common Skin all i D rice Zjc rer oox Off D D • ALL FIRST CLASS DRUGGISTS will supply you has dried wash out the ink stains in the milk and rinse as above directed. soak the stain in this solution for half an hour. Rust Stains may be removed by soaking chloric acid a diluted solution of hydro- and rinsing in clear cold water.Zoa-Phora Balm No Family Supply is Complete Without Known Ointment---within easy reach at this Well Diseases. removed or the colors clear. Scorch Marks can be effectively removed only by sunshine. than to attempt to do the work yourself. Chafes and Croup. Machine will wash. if Wash with cold water and a pure white soap. Iodine Stains can best be removed with chloroform. and then rinse in clear cold water. or turpentine and ammonia. or to a pint of water add one-fourth pound of sal soda. — and Paint Spots: Rub with vaseline until paint is softened. Blisters. Piles. Rough Skin. if the material not rub wet borax over the spot and rinse in clear cold water. Perspiration until the stain is — Stains: Sponge with a weak solution of hydrochloric acid. Eruptions. Phone Crest234 - W ump ^^ Z/^» ^§S3S3Rgg0r Page 90 Prompt Service We Call For and Deliver 13256 Euclid Avenue and 13430 Euclid Avenue . all Children's Sore Throat. then wash in benzine or gasoline. but as this is a very dangerous drug to work with it is usually better to send your garment to a cleaner. then wash gently in tepid soap in — suds and rinse in clear tepid water. then wash in gasoline or benzine. Tea Stains: Vaseline — Follow directions for removing coffee stains. Oil: for 24 hours. Boils.

it is always best to discharge or remove as much of the old color as possible. There are in all which you are about to dye has nearly as much effect on the result as the dye you use. 90th Street Cleveland. Phone. rugs. if cotton or silk. Dyeing Fine Lingerie and Lace Curtains Specialties and Feather Work 2420 Cedar Ave. and do not stain the hands. to put a small time and additional expense. it becomes discolored. table covers and various other articles may be dyed and brightened up. Many old or shabby garments can be dyed and renovated and made over and months of service gotten from them. Boil from one-half to three-quarters of an hour in a bath containing soap. thus saving It is advisable. and dyed a deeper shade. Ohio DYEING. the result will be a green. Snow Flake Hand Laundry The Cedar Cleaning Works Cleaning. ALL WORK GUARANTEED Fannie Hamlet. appear as good as new and that at but a few cents of expense. before putting in the article to be dyed. In taking goods from the dye bath. the goods may be put back in the same dye bath. to see if the desired shade is obtained. Page if necessary. as it is The color of the impossible to dye a dark colored fabric a lighter color. changing the water when times. where without dyeing they would be useless. Princt 2906-L .North 776 Cent. like many other dyes. you can use the same dye for any vegetable nature. do not crowd the goods. When several pieces are to be dyed put in the dye bath at the same time. The best plan is to try a small piece of goods fabric first. and see the result. They are easy and simple to use. When dying. same shade. without removing the article itself. Peacock Dyes are put up in collapsible tubes. and are much cleaner and dyes. 2336 E. instances a few precautions in dyeing you must always follow. but keep them moving by stirring occasionally with a wooden stick. so that it takes day to wear off. so that in case the desired shade is not obtained. the probable result. This can be accomplished by boiling the goods. Do not expect to dye a dark piece of goods a light shade. in fact making them in many cases. Unlike the old-time easier to handle than the old-fashioned dry powder whether it be of animal or dyes. If. when dyeing. two or three 91 . do not throw away the solution until goods are dry. piece of material in with the larger pieces. Prop. they should all be otherwise a variety of shades would be the In discharging or removing old colors from material that has been previously dyed. for instance. you have a yellow dress and use a blue dye. 7420-R Doan 337-L Res. fabric. so that it may be taken out from time to time. Old and worn curtains.

Rugs. Wools. Raffia. color from wool. etc. Curtains. FULL DIRECTIONS ON EACH TUBE. Chipped Straw. as of old color is it tends to The removal very important in dyeing articles out the that have been previously dyed. etc. making them much easier and cleaner to handle than the old fashioned powder dyes. Peacock Dyes are put up in collapsible tubes. Basketry.When removing soften the wool.. no soap should be used. Apple Green . old color come discharging when will not PEACOCK DYES For Home Dyeing THE ONE DYE FOR ALL FABRICS For dyeing Cotton. Silks. may be dyed. making them appear as good as new. Mixed Goods. Linens. Feathers. worn and shabby Clothes. Tablecovers. owing to article is put into the bath of some of new color. By the use of Peacock Dyes in the household a great many old. as the newly dyed material the bright and uniform.

Bedding. get a If he does not keep it. It is a scientific Washing Compound to be used in connection with any good Laundry Soap in accordance with directions printed on each package. It is invaluable ELWAKO ELWAKO IN It is YOUR LAUNDRY WORK sold by most Grocers. a package of regular size. S. 1120 Prospect Ave. Cents in stamps and we will mail you. not gray or yellow. learned by practical experience that it saves the hard labor of rubbing and dispenses with the washboard. Page 93 . One 25 cent can will clean any common sized rug or carpet without rinsing or removing from the floor. ELWAKO Elwako Manufacturing Co. If you are not now using it. whether they be Table Linen. and restores all the original brilliancy of color without injury. Cleveland.LAUNDERING. that articles washed with last twice as long as when rubbed. which does wonderful work. or perhaps some pieces which one prizes very highly and one desires to have done at home. It contains no Lye or Acid.. sufficient for four family washings. In this present day of good laundries the hardest and most laborious part of the work can be sent away. is not a Soap nor a Soap Powder. You must be most careful in this SETTLES THE WASH-DAY QUESTION NO LYE NO ACID WILL MAKE YOUR CLOTHES CLEAN*WHITE WITHOUT RUBBING SOLD BY GROCERS YOU SHOULD USE ELWAKO Because thousands of other women have in your weekly washing. 0. with full directions for using. postpaid. Curtains or personal apparel. and that it makes white clothes WHITE. send us Ten package from your Grocer. and will not injure any fabric. yet there are always numberless small things. E. or those ot a dainty.. delicate texture or color. We also manufacture CARPET CLEANER. Ask your grocer for it also.

where they can get the full benefit of the air and sun. but over night better. least being sure that the corners are well fastened. for you can wear your articles out more by rubbing them over a rough washboard than you would wear them out in a week of almost constant service. water and roll —When —Iron dry. being sure that nothing with if a color in it is put with the all-white clothes. North 975 Central 3280-W Prospect Avenue and East 14th Street A Particular Laundry for Particular People Cleveland Ohio Page 94 . — Shave in soap together one small cake of Elwako and one bar of any good laundry three pints of water and boil and stir until they are thoroughly Third. We suggest the use of "Elwako. bluing and good starch and if possible have your clothes hanged out of doors. you have a good laundry soap many of the cheaper soaps. Then always use a good laundry aid. as they will turn your clothes yellow and fade and cause the colors to run. that you get on bargain counters. — Sort over your clothes. Fifth. time and wear on your clothing. taking precautions to always keep the garment it form or you may render unsightly by ironing out of shape. . blended.— -Starch and hang on so the articles will not Sixth. —Boil two tubs of tepid from 20 to 30 minutes and wrinse thoroughly through one or water and then through bluing water. You should first see that remove the dirt and stains and germs without the unnecessary labor of rubbing.'' as it positively contains no lye. wrung out of the cold water. and coarser from the finer you have a large number of pieces. sort the and wash the finer first. sprinkle with tepid is tightly and leave for at one hour. Seventh. one which will First. acid or substance of any' kind which will injure the most delicate fabric. in perfect with great care. and it will make your clothes clean and whte with a Further. the boiler with the clothes.work. Second. are worse than worthless. blow about and tear or become stretched out of shape. — Put fill one-half of this mixture into a washboiler containing very hot water and Fourth. line. and soak white pieces in cold water over night. be careful to get good saving of labor. for a badly laundered article is worthless to a particular or refined woman.

Zoa-Phora begins at the seat of your trouble and builds up every part of your body. The following indisputable evidence will convince the most skeptical of the merits and value of Zoa-Phora. If compounded your druggist has no free box for you have him With the purchase of one Dollar-size bottle of Zoa-Phora the bearer is entitled to a full ten days' special treatment of the Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Cones which the Zoa-Phora Company are supplying the drug trade free of charge for this purpose. are not afraid to publish to every woman and to every physician and to the whole world. Mother. tonic to carry them safely through the various changes of womanhood. harmful drugs. Zoa-Phora contains no alcohol positively not one drop is used.— WHAT Is IS ZOA-PHORA? is Zoa-Phora" THIS question "What women seeking asked by intelligent reply. Zoa-Phora 3. No opiates or narcotics to suddenly deaden your pain and in time ruin your nervous system. opiates. We to cure. or any dangerous or 5. asked hundreds of times daily honest Before using a treatment a sensible woman wants to know what she is using she is perfectly justified in demanding an honest and straightforward answer. If you want to be cured. Present this coupon to your nearest druggist. No alcohol in it to Zoa-Phora is excite the nervous system and make you feel fine for a few hours and then leave you weak and exhausted. write us. Maiden. and given entire satisfaction. 8. No expense is spared in modern medical science are used in its its Zoa-Phora is not a secret formula. Zoa-Phora is Nature's own restorative and cure. 1. In addition to the splendid tonic effects of Zoa-Phora many women need a good local treatment and in order to encourage the use of our Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones in all cases when needed we are making the following offer of a full Ten Days' Treatment of our Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones (further information on page 79 of this book). therefore. composition. for nearly women. Zoa-Phora contains only the best and purest Positively the best ingredients preparation. Pengelly. that you have found a treatment perfected to the limit of modern medical discovery. give Zoa-Phora a chance to do its good work. a satisfactory. 6. When you know what Zoa-Phora really is you will be convinced if you are suffering with any form of disease peculiar to women. and Grandmother find it the best woman's especially the sexual organism. Page 95 ." as do some of the cheap. does not make drunkards or a craving for stimulants. plain. — of diseases of the market for the treatment 50 years. Zoa-Phora is a vegetable compound. 4. 7. known to of drugs. relieved and cured the very worst forms of Female Trouble and ailments peculiar to women. and you will then know to your own satisfaction and benefit just what Zoa-Phora really is. Wife. Zoa-Phora does not contain minerals. rational. but Zoa-Phora is 2. patent medicine— not some dope handed down by an the prescription of Dr. Zoa-Phora is one of the oldest reliable preparations on It has. one of the greatest Specialists of his age in the treatment of the diseases of women. just what Zoa-Phora is compounded of. Our remedies are used by the thinking class of women throughout the United States and we are giving you a few reasons why you are safe in choosing Zoa-Phora in preference to all other remedies and why you are guaranteed satisfaction. inferior preparations Zoa-Phora is not an ordinary ignorant layman. It is manufactured only of the best and most valuable roots and herbs known to science. It is indeed (Woman's Friend). — on the market. Does not this prove that Zoa-Phora is beyond question all that it is claimed to be? Write today and we will send you a copy of its formula. narcotics. It does not make "drug fiends.

and will wear a life time. full line And in Lakewood and Detroit Avenue the of Zoa-Phora supplies can be procured from Lindsley Drug Co. 16924 Detroit Avenue Dole. 15621 Detroit Avenue Ludwig Pharmacy. 11600 Detroit Avenue Alford Crocker. 1 - Number Number Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Pile Zoa-Phora (Woman's Friend) 2 - $1. OHIO . Marshall Drug Stores The May Co..25 Digestive Tablets Stomach and Liver Pills Anti-Constipation Pills - .25 . Adams Street Page 96 TOLEDO. You can procure Zoa-Phora from every including the first class druggist in Cleveland..00 Cold Remedy La Grippe Remedy . 18503 Detroit Avenue Go today to your nearest druggist and procure the remedies you need and send the faces from the packages direct to These beautiful teaspoons axe of the favorite Narcissus pattern.50 .50 . 4706 Detroit Avenue Wilson Drug Co. etc. Standard Drug Stores Purity Drug Co. The Zoa-Phora Remedies 1803 Co. fully warranted. FULLY WARwill be sent you by return mail. which means one Zoa-Phora (Woman's Friend) wrapper and your choice of any one of the remedies in Number Two and one from Number Three.25 - Not One Cent to Pay for the Teaspoons Now or Later Send us the three wrappers or cartons as indicated above.DEC 19 1912 One Set of Silver Teaspoons Free To Users of Zoa-Phora Send us the front of the carton or box from any one of the packages in each of three divisions below arranged and the full set of RANTED TEASPOONS \L SIX TRIPLE PLATED. best triple plated.25 ..50 Remedy - Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones Number Balm ----3 - .50 - - .

.

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 080 524 5 .

.

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 080 524 5 .

Sign up to vote on this title
UsefulNot useful