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PRACTICAL HELPS FOR THE HOME or Made / . if Money you are not satisfied. 50 cents to $1. invisible. seamless belt. silk *l DO. boned with hasted seams ahove. or nlack percaline. You cannot make anyone of these essentials for anywhere near the price.00. not bust measurement. Money.open front or hack. lias hooks and eyes. $3. clever pad.^ DRESSMAKING SPECIALTIES Without Shoulder Form Long ci loulder Ready] cms Made Pitied "Waist Lining EAL. Work and Worry almost finished lining for tight-fitting waists. silk Corsica. very helpful in altering or reinforcing fronts. on new principle.. (1) front for long coat. Black or white. in transparent envelopes. C— Tailor made. sealed to insure cleanliness. Write Dept. 5 for 15 cents. 35 and 50 cents. Carefully manufactured of best materials for correct tailoring of garments in prevailing styles. and the Professional Dressmaker. (new). 75c. white or black. 15 cents a pair.50 to $4. 3 for 10 cents. 75 cents. washable. Grean Shoulder Form and Pad 327-329 East 34th Street. pliable. proof. A loose-fitting net lining for light. A— Perfected. of thoroughly shrunken linen canvas reinforced with hair-cloth and felt. 15 cents a pair. New York Page 1 . SI. Bray. fills in usual hollows around overlapping padded points for shoulders. 00. nor after hours of tiring effort obtain the perfect they insure. write us. chiffon.. Order by exact size of Linolawn. direct or through a reliable a catalogue oj other dressmaking helps. back. HEAVILY COVERED WITH PURE SILK FLOSS. has Collar Support at If you cannotobtain GREAN SPECIALTIES We supply you dealer and send you will your dealer's. Designed for the trade and now sold in leading Dry Goods Stores everywhere. greatly improve appearance garment. for short coats. cotton. B— Produce of any shoulder effect desired. guaranteed collar supports. D— "GREANET" InvisibleV&isi Foundaiion ] E— Perfect rust F— Very SilkCovered armhole. Use one or all and fit Coat Fronls \ Save Time. shaped. boned. or lace waists on high.00 (CSS) Eton front. ready for draping. has hooks and eyes. "G" Co. white your waist.

— Outline Stitch 8. 36.. Page 5 6 30. EmIS.— INTRODUCTION 2.— Milliner's Fold 39. 14.- — Sewing on Buttons — Loops — Darning — Stoting — Patching — Overhand Patch" — Bands and Folds .— Tucks and Pleats 55. Cleveland. 49.— French Knots 14.'.— Long and Short Stitch 20. .'. 32. 62. 8 8 9 10 10 10 11 11 11 43.— Damask Stitch 16.— Embroidery Scallops. Sewing on Lace or Embroid58.—TO HOLD THE GOODS 3. Emblems and Monograms — Eyelets — —To and Eyelet Embroidery 14 16 16 16 16 17 17 18 54. Chevrons. Lesson 1 . 22 22 23 24 24 24 24 24 24 24 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 51. Lesson 29..— Shirring 56. 47.— Blanket Stitch 24. 52.— Piping 40. — Knot —Running Stitch — Basting — Backstitch — Overcasting Stitch 6 6 7 7 7 33.— Feather Stitch 19...— PLAIN AND FANCY STITCHES. 3. Make Buttonholes 20 — ery Embroidery — Setting on Lace or and Eyes — Sewing Hooks 27. 34.— Hem Stitch 17.—Satin Stitch (French broidery) 8 37. 59. 4. 27 28 28 28 29 Copyright 1912 by Lydia Trattles Coates Page 2 . 4. -WORKING INSTRUCTIONS. 35.- 12 13 13 13 — Cording — Seams 42. 41. 5.— Couch Stitch 1 1.'.. — Facings — Gathering Hem 26 26 26 26 27 27 22.— Seed Stitch 1 5. 60. 48..— Welt Seam — Lapped Seam — French Seam — Hemming —To Hem Corners — Damask Hem 46.— Felled Seam — Bound Seam — Strap Seam 45. 23.— Catch Stitch 12.— Button Hole Stitch 25.- 61. . 57. Page 21 21 21 . 50. (£.— Chain Stitch 9. . and Overhanding 7 7.— Solid Embroidery 21.IttHtntfittfltt —loral Beginners' Voices Carefully Built and Trained lira.— Braiding 28. 2. 27. 26.— Rolled 53. Ohio CONTENTS 1. 44.— Slant 6.— Cable Stitch 10.— Cross Stitch 18. GUjrato Nutnttan IpII Eaat 541 13TB East mtlf fctrwt COATES SEWING AND DRESS MAKING MANUAL Published by Coates Advertising Agency.— Fagot Stitch 13. 31. Stays and Collar — Putting Supports — Marking of Linen and Underwear — Embroidery Designs in in .'.— Punch Work 16.—Ruffles 26. ".— Double Folds 38. .

— Children's 136.— Dress 12. 16.5410.— INFANT'S OUTFIT Lesson — Making the Infant's " 107. (D)— Millinery (E) — Lingerie 76. SHRINKING ING...— CUTTING. Curry. 85.— Girl's -Gowns 104. 80..—Turn Down Collars 69. (B) — Scientific Beauty Culture 5811.— NECESSARY (A) MAKING ACCESSORIES (B)—Threads (C)— Sewing Thread (D) (E) SEWING AND Page DRESS30 30 30 31 313431 33 — Sewing Machine (F)— Linings (G)— Patterns — Embroidery Thread Hooks and Eyes (H)— Tape (I)— Dress (J) 35 35 Shields 39- 36 37 —Dress Form —Dress Trimmings 6.— Petticoats — Skirts and Underwear Without Plackets — Dressing Sacques (F) (G) " 78. Costumes and Coats 77- 95. 83. Cleveland and Graduate of School of Expression. 75. 86. . 65. Lesson Lesson 74.— SPONGING. — AND 48 48 49 MATERNITY OUTFIT. — Lesson — Fitting and Alterations. — Children's 105. —Boning 38 40 41 — Shirt Waist Supporter — Rain Coat and Waterproof Garments Lesson — Corset Covers — Drawers " — Chemise " 81.— High Collars 67. —The Young Lady's Dresses — Maternity Outfit Wardrobe 9. 72 74 75 75 7. 93. 82.— Coat Sleeve 73..— FITTING AND ALTERATIONS. — Street.- —Jackets 76 76 78 79 80 81 81 PRESS50 50 51- — Sponging -Pressing 98.— CLEANING 17. Page 64 65 66 66 67 67 67 68 68 68 69 70 71 71 84. 79. 64. 88. Lesson 97.— SCHOOL Lesson " " 14 101.— Shirt Waists 91.— Pockets Traveling Skirts and Busi- 46 47 47 96.. Cuffs and Lap Closings 72. 66.— Aprons — — Lingerie Waists — Housekeeping Gowns — Evening and Dinner Gowns. — Maternity Corsets —Maternity Gowns — Maternity Skirts GIRLS' SUPPLIES. ness 72- 90. — Making of Dinner Gowns.—THE WELL GROOMED WOMAN. 57 58 60 61 61 62 63 64 64 —Rompers Coats 15.— DYEING 18.— Night Gowns — Combination Undergarments. 99.— Tailored Collars 68. 94.— Sleeves 70. 8. Lesson " " 102.— LAUNDERING 3 88 91 93 86 86 87 93 92 94 Page . 89.— MILADY'S WORDROBE (A) — Corsets (B)— Sanitary Belts (C) — Sanitary Skirt Protectors. 77. FOR 42 42 43 44 45 45 43- Kimonas 87. 100. (A) — The Well Groomed Woman. Cutting 53 —CHILDREN'S CLOTHES. President Bell Doan 1369-R 9608 Hough Avenue CONTENTS 5.— Making of Gowns 92..— Children's Underwear Outfit.Inatruflton Expression Literature Interpretation Pantomime Harmonic Training Art of Play Writing and Criticism iFlomtrp Hartlja itaaett (Swr^r) Graduate of Harroff School of Expression. 110.— COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS SPECIFIC WORK Lesson — Plackets —Belts and Bands —Yoke and Peplums (K) (L) 63.— Shirt Waist Sleeves 71.— Girl's School Dress 103. 82 83 83 84 85 85 . and Shrinking 13. Boston Dr.

F.. (Dentist) Bryson Co. & C. (Embroidery Silk) Belding Bros. B. E. Sanche's Oxydonor's and by the use of it as directed. (Sanitary Protectors) American Textile Mfg. The C. & Co. (Book and Art Exchange). Restaurant Co. Review Co. (Sewing Machine Supplies) Studio (Art Work) Cedar Cleaning Works Chandler. Ohio Office Furniture Co 91 5 Oxydonar Parrish. if you want pREE— Books on Health. Cleveland Credit Clothing Co Cleveland Dress Trimming Co College of Science (Acme) Connelly Co. The May. E. A. 55. T. Oxydonor will do it. 30. G. E. (Embroidery Initials) 74 50 39 65 94 14 29 28 18 19 71 Richardson Silk Facial College Elwako Mfg.. Co. Van Gorder (Havanco Mending Tissue) Haserot Co. 29 21 34 23 12 17 7 Arbor Tea Shop Art Pleating Shoppe Baird Bros. 337 Old Arcade INDEX TO ADVERTISERS Page Adair. Joseph. The process is natural and very simple. Co. F. 68 9 72 41 46 54 37 11 Review Co. Ellen C. Miller. Dr.. Pictoral Pictorial J. (Elwako Laundry Aid) Euclid Cafetiere (Lunch Club) Farr. Mandarin.. ' . & (Shino) (Dress Form) Co. (Linings) Belle Vernon Dairy Co Berner's Art Store Boston Dry Goods Co B. (Peacock Carlton Monks.. Spinal Trouble. R. even if all else has failed. (Osteopathic Physician) Morehouse Co Noteman.. (Senora Coffee) 24 22 24 Wm. Co. you will be restored to health.. (Embroidery Catalog). Wright. W. Chester (Vocal Instruction). (Woven Names) Reis Initial Co. & & Sons Co. (Wrinkle Eradicators) 64 26 61 64 5 84 64 52 80 40 56 56 33 2 5 31 8 34 25. 31. 4 P. Co. 6 44 60 47 1 Vacuum 20 55 89 13 77 78 54 35 45 48 55 Grean Arm Pad Grean Fitted Belt Griffith Warner Hat Shoppe Warren Featherbone Co White Sewing Machine Co Wilson Dress Hook Co Wright. Ohio. (Dunham's Specific) Long. (Energine Shoe Dressing) Devoe. 64 38 66 32 36 62 83 96 Page 4 . performs which border on miracles. Priestley. Rosenblum Clothing Co Sanar Remedy Co (Attorneys at Law) Shop of Kimonas and Art Laces Skalla. (Tape) Sons Co. cures. health. C. Mrs. Wm.. (Dust Bright) 59 63 10 Page Hawley Restaurant Henke Furniture Co Hexter's Lining Store Ideal Faucet Syringe Co Interstate Drug Co. Abbie E. by all means secure one of Dr. Frank (Dentist) Electra Pure Water Co. (Monarch Polish) Basch. H. . H. Nervousness. Raynolds Co.. (Ice Cream) Universal Dry Cleansing Co Victor Insect Exterminating Co 43 75 & Florence Martha (Expression) Frederick Piano Co Fries & Schuele Fulton." Edward Rigby of Lisbon. invented by Dr.. Mrs. T. Diabetes. (Sleeve Initials) Reis Initial Co. 69 63 16 76 91 15 8.. Thus writes Are you suffering from Rheumatism. but as and setting of the sun. E. Berthe (Corsets) 86 19 53 58 51 II May Co. (Katharos) Ellsworth Public Hand Laundry Reis Initial Co. * Call or Send 10 Cents for Postage. (Sanitary Belt). Co. Margaret B. & C. (Funeral Director). Co. (Ganesh Toilet Preparation) A. (Fashion Book) B. Phone. (Cravenette) 60 88 9 Dye) Dowd. M. 13. Association 7... Mrs. infallible as the daily rising Investigate. Pioneer Mfg. (Domestic Cleaner) Swalley's Credit Store Telling Co.. Co... Stroud. No. Young Women's Zoa Phora Co Christian 57. & P. (Public Stenographer). etc.. L. Grean Shoulder Form and Pad Grean Dress Making Specialties Grean Long Coat Front Foundation Grean Short Coat Front Foundation Grean's "Greanet" Grean Fitted Waist Lining Grean Coat Collars Fassett.. Mrs.. (Embroidery Scallops) Reis Initial Co. (Morlene) Korach. N. 76. (Naiad Dress Shield) Continental Casualty Co Creme de Luxe Cummer Products Co. & Co Lawson School of Music Lickes Drug Co. Pneumatic Form Co. C. Co. (Piano Instruction) 58 20 60 93 42 73 3 ' Co G. Hall. Co. Mfg. (Real Estate) Conover. ("Hair Vim") Snow Flake Laundry Shaver. Maud De Long (Dermatologist) Smith Carriage & Auto Co Smith Chemical Co. Main 730 Ohio Agency. Sanche for the purpose of healing the sick. or are any of your family suffering from disease? If so. (Sewing Silk) Belding Bros.OXYDONOR "This wonderful little appliance. Miss L. David (Shirtwaist Belts) Battle Creek Sanitarium Food Co Belding Bros. (Manicuring and Chiropody). 95. Stomach Trouble.

THE OHIO OFFICE Chandler Central 332 1-K Main 1368 FURNITURE Bell. Thus dressmaking will become an Art and a Science and a pleasure instead of a nerveracking. Many women go garments made or are forced to wear unbecoming. L. For this reason this plain.Public Stenographer Duplicating Filing Devices Tables. We have made the system as brief and as easy as possible and by following faithfully the instructions and always turning to the lessons designated you will find that you have a reliable guide to the making of every essential garment for your wardrobe. Ohio 429 The Arcade North 1450 I. LAXATIVE BRAN BISCUITS "The samples you gave do the work ine were delicious" BATTLE CREEK SANITARIUM FOOD Page 5 CO. without as complete a wardrobe as they would like to have or pay out more money than they feel that they should spare to get . laboritheir — ous piece of drudgery. but many women do not preserve these periodicals or have not the time to wade through all the other literature and sometimes a labyrinth of instructions to find out the system of properly cutting out and putting together and finishing a dress or suit or piece of underwear or perhaps doing up a piece of household sewing. CO. S. E. simple and comprehensible set of Sewing and Dress Making Lessons have been compiled without waste of words or unnecessary repetitions. Sewing is an art and the woman who clothes herself with an eye to bringing out the possibilities of her grace and beauty and best points of individuality. INTRODUCTION.. 1145 Prospect Ave. Cleveland.. has been written on the subject of sewing and many of our best magazines have given us invaluable information. using herself as the model and her materials. as the means of presenting to the world her ideal of thought. Quigley Desks Chairs Armor-Clad Steel Furniture Cuspidors and other Office Furniture Murphy & Gunlocke Miss L.. etc. non-individual clothes simply because they do not know exactly how to cut and fit and make and finish the articles of their apparel and without complete instructions before them do not feel like risking the time and the material in experimenting. trimmings. On the other hand if they know just how to go ahead and have each step made plain for them to follow they could add many beautiful garments to To be sure much that is very helpful their wardrobe at a very small cost. and hiding any possible defects of her contour or carriage will work as an artist. 111-112 Old Arcade .

FANCY Lesson 1. hemming of fragile garments. 1612 EUCLID AVENUE Page 6 .->. . left hand. by backstitching (Lesson 4). Running 2. Always take stitch under the hem or seam to hide knot but in open space where this is not possible fasten thread by taking two or three stitches over each other or — KNOT. . IV. FREDERICK PIANO CO. Basting Stitch. but learn and practice holding and doing your work properly and sitting erect.$200 Sound Proof Demonstrating Parlors Experienced Salesmen. The Lesson 2. be in constant use for seams on light etc. crumble it nor yet so loosely that the stitches are taken unevenly. French seams. Lesson 5. Lesson 17. 3. Try Our Superior Service Today. W. leaving the right hand Never hold the work so as to crush and free with which to do the stitches..— stitches through the cloth should It will be of exact and equal length. (1) (2) Slant Stitch.CHAPTER III. (3) (4) Lesson Hemstitch. gathering. -. materials.—Thread AND ORNAMENTAL STITCHES. Lesson Stitch. F. The Proof of the Pudding is in the Eating The Proof of "Frederick Service" In the Trying is Every Record Every Victrola $15.. . hold the work firmly in the left hand. Knots should never be visible in any sewing except in basting. TO HOLD THE GOODS. Sit up straight. CHAPTER PLAIN. Always hold the goods in a position so the stitches are taken toward you. needle with proper sized thread and hold in Wind thread once over forefinger of right hand and pull tightly. and do not form the bad habit of pinning the work to your skirts and then humping over to do it or winding seams over the forefinger of your left hand.oOOCNO''.— RUNNING STITCH.

Ohio West Side Branch Franyin and West 32nd Home Nursing Home Making Chafing Dish St.—Take a few running stitches (see Lesson 2). This is one of the most particular lessons in sewing as every stitch must be exactly the same in height and distance apart. Making Trade Class Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister Cooking fundamental principle of all good fitting and adjusting lies in the proper basting.—The Lesson 5.— Begin at the right and work toward the left.— BACKSTITCH. handing are to have needle point at exact depth and be exact distance between each stitch. practical and artistic manner. Insert the needle under the fold. then take a short back stitch back on the upper side and a long stitch forward on the under side. progressive. Voice Culture of both the singing and speaking voice a specialty. Beginners or Advanced Pupils Private or Class Lessons Day or Evening Jim Best Instruction Moderate Prices Page 7 . Lesson 3.— OVERCASTING AND OVERHANDING.— SLANT STITCH. Hold your goods with the edges which you are sewing on toward you. Lesson 4.Sewing Millinery Apply to the Cookery Dining Room Service Dietetics Dressmaking Tailoring Shirt Waist Young Women's Christian Association Prospect Avenue and East 18th Cleveland. From under side draw needle through cloth exact depth to be overcasted or overhanded and take stitch over and through twice to hold firmly. Begin next stitch exactly where last stitch left off on upper side of sewing (see cut 1). page 6). (See cut 1. using two or three stitches to hold (never knot under a fold). —BASTING.— Baste material with edges exactly even or if single trim smooth and even. Lesson 6. varying the distance between stitches according to the quality and thickness The two important features of perfect overcasting or overof the material. Lay your cloth perfectly in place and then fasten by taking even or uneven running stitches through the material as in cut. Use Slant Stitch (see Lesson 5). Ohio All branches of Music and Dramatic Art taught in a thorough. The half back stitch is taken half way back between the space of where the thread is drawn through and where the stitch leaves off on the upper side. CIk Cawson School of music and Other Tine 10507 Superior Avenue Cleveland. Point the needle toward the left shoulder and pass it through a few folds of the material and a few threads of the fold.

— CHAIN the top of your design and always your needle to point a towards needle through material. instead of at Page 8 . New Process Embroidery Silk and every conceivable shade. 528 Broadway STITCH. guaranus. Lesson 9." write tell you where it can be obtained. If and we will BELDING BROS.— Start have left New York at City Lesson 8. except that drawn through at the side.Have You Tried T^T lriLLlllVJO ICECREAM? Lesson 7. ing stitch and draw rather yet not enough to wrinkle the goods.— The the cable as the chain stitch needle is made almost exactly Lesson 8). holding your work with the needle pointing toward you and always keeping the thread on the same needle.American STITCH.— OUTLINE T TTVT/^O French . your dealer does not carry "Belding's. hold down Draw you. side of the Take each stitch back two threads on the precedtightly.— CABLE STITCH.— Take even stitches. in eight different twists. thread under thumb form loop. half stitch is (see way back the center. & CO. take a short stitch through the material. bringing needle through one stitch distance ahead and proceed as before. Belding's teed fast dve. of the previous stitch.

The "New" Pictorial Review Embroidery Catalog is filled with ideas and suggestions of interest to any It is woman who em- broiders or does fancy work. New York. by mail. SKIRT PANELS. Y. COSTUMES. N. Satin. HAND BAGS. New The New of the Review Embroidery Catalog. Pictorial Fully explained and illustrated in linen. profusely illustrated and contains designs for all the various kinds of embroideries. BELTS. Price 10 cents. either the These may be obtained Transfer or Perforated Patterns Purchase a copy today at any newsdealer. 15 cents THE PICTORIAL REVIEW COMPANY THE PICTORIAL REVIEW BUILDING 222 West 39th Street. such as Eyelet. and Infants' and Children's Wear. Send 20 cents for a sample of this work begun on special and one large needles. —COUCH of STITCH. Underin not forgetting the exquisite designs for wear. Etc. —'Couching thread at is made by apart laying straight lines equal distances across the design. SUITS. Hold the threads in place with your left hand and fasten them to the material with small stitches on the right side. Add 15 cents for The New Pictorial Review Embroidery Catalog. or The May Co. Are all illustrated.Lesson 10. Solid and Outline Including numerous designs for the popular Braid Work and the Punched Embroidery. many DOILIES. Page 9 . having the stitches in each row fall between those of the opposite row. Seed. SHIRT WAISTS.


W. china decorating and firing. Congratulations for Birth Carlton Studio 1430 Announcements and other special occasions.. Wedding.the .E.— Draw the required number of threads Hold the hem and turn hem and baste exactly below last thread drawn. Paints for china 10c and 15c each. At the place where the threads cross catch to thread desired down with the cross stitch. Schofield Bldg.— DAMASK needle across STITCH. Lesson 15. for exact position of needle). and ask us to tell you today and let us explain or call up CENTRAL WHAT FIVE CENTS PER DAY WILL DO FOR YOU. FRAMING A SPECIALTY.Watt. your cash income does not stop just when you most need it. water-color. High Grade Stationery. pastel or crayon.— Fasten up the thread on right side.—The back seed stitch is made by taking small stitches covering the leaf or petals of a design or in monogram.Breadwinner Then when the unforseen.Mgr. Lesson Protect -Yourself . pictures in Book ana Art exchange 31 Taylor Arcade Monogram Work. unexpected piece of bad luck comes. Dainty Cards. Be positively and safely provided for by the largest Health and Accident Insurance Company in the world. Birthday. Anniversary.— SEED STITCH.Art We do stencil Work oil. 1. (See Lesson 11. needle under and through the hem. of the hem. also teach work. CONTINENTAL CASUALTY CO. Cleveland. stitches The rows must be evenly spaced and the each row falling midway between those of the rows at either side of them. insert the to as many threads as are desired (always the same number). and draw the needle through to the right of the group and take a short stitch in the fold (See cut No. Come in 2357 -W. wrong side and bring the through pattern to carrying When the be worked. group from three toward you. LONG teach or paint to order. We insure both Men and Women. 358 The Arcade SICKNESS OR AN ACCIDENT MAY COME TOMORROW ACT TODAY — Page 11 . THE ELLEN and C.) 16. page 6.— HEMSTITCHING.and . O. laid draw through in the number of threads have been opposite direction at even distances apart another set of threads. Lesson 14.

Tumors. If he fails send us SI. the breathing or the blood flow to and from the brain. Double Chin. GOITRE will disappear when treated with MORLENE Also Thick Neck. Enlarged Joints.Lesson 17. no matter tions is unsightly and disagreeable. therefore we want every person afflicted with Goitre and similar troubles to know that there is a remedy which is really a success in If 92% of all cases. possible misrepresentation case Morlene relieves the able conditions accompanying Goitre and gives entire satisfaction to how bad or how long standing. you are not tell them afflicted but of Morlene. we will say that in every dangerous and disagree92% of all cases. Your druggist can supply you MANUFACTURED ONLY BY The Interstate Drug Company 12 Cleveland. 50 and we will promptly deliver a full size package containing a sufficient quantity for an ordinary treatment of 30 days.— The cross stitch simply bringing one stitch across the angle of the other.— CROSS is STITCH. Morlene is not an experiment. its effectiveness has been thoroughly proven. Thick Neck or Goitre by Tumors and for the sake of a better appearance the Double Chin. so it is always best to get rid of any enlargements about the throat whether they be Goitre. and it often produces dangerous condiaffecting the eyes. to say the least. have relatives or friends who it. Inflammations The above statement has been so thoroughly proven that we are almost tempted to say Morlene However. Ohio Page . to avoid will cure any case of Goitre. are. They should know about if he wants your trade.

mice. are at your service. rats. ONLY No powder dust left — No poison— No bad odors. instead made by taking three stitches to the Lesson 19.— the the only is equipped with a Cast-off. CLEVELAND. It is the method endorsed by the Government experts of all nations. We rid Boats. left line. and you can imagine the annoyance it has caused the operator. insects. first on the right then on the left. bedding. thread stitch down directly on downward to left the of the mark or mark line and hold with thumb and take short or line and repeat taking stitch. It should be fumigated by our method once a year it will be clean and healthful. Our experts Our methods are used & B. Let us hear from you. long and short stitch in successive rows until the design entirely filled .—LONG AND SHORT STITCH — stitch Follow exact instructions as slant 5). White Sewing Machine Co. to say nothing of the loss of time in trying to get the machine to work right. exclusively on the C. hold thread take a short stitch through and to the right side of down with the mark or thumb. manufacturers of Rotary machines have had a world of trouble with the thread tangling in the shuttle race. one-half the dis- tance depth as the succeeding one. Happily the White experts came to the rescue with this remarkable device THREAD CAST-OFF THE White Rotary Thread machine — SANITATION HEALTH HAPPINESS Our method is of fumigation and insect extermination absolutely the most up-to-date and efficient method in use. There's no time like the present to look the White over. —then Boats. bring needle through to right side.— Is Page 13 made by using is the in. etc. etc.— Mark thread along the line chalk or run a colored to be followed. Churches and Stores of all germs. O. Thread Cast-off (it's exclusively White) and the difficulty vanished as if DON'T NEGLECT YOUR HOME by magic. Talk about trouble why.— FEATHER tailor's STITCH— BRIAR STITCH. with pencil or Lesson 18. upholstered furniture. and recommended by the State Medical authorities as being the only absolute remedy known to Science. Hotels. (see Lesson except that one stitch in is taken. It's just another instance of White superiority. Knot bring thread.— SOLID EMBROIDERY. Warehouses. Penetrates through plastering. 426 PROSPECT Both Phones Victor Insect 351 The Arcade Exterminating Co. (See cut). is The double feather or briar stitch is made by taking two stitches to the right of one while the triple feather stitch right and three to the left. rs^J Lesson 20. and two stitches to the left.

— EMBROIDERY SCALLOP STITCH. Remarkable as it may seem. we guarantee that they will retain their shape and appearance through all the washings.Lesson 21. a name of a dealer in your city stamp and the who would most you in re- likely handle our goods. desired tone of expressive charm— an indication of character— the "intangible something" of which a woman can well be proud.— Fasten thread by running and back stitches. New York Page 14 . shows the exact position of the needle. new Sold at the Art Counter of Any Department Store Reis Initials. If you can thread a needle you can successfully use them. We will send turn our In Sizes from % inch to 10 Inches. Draw needle through loop and repeat taking every stitch very closely together so no gap appears between the stitches. the scallops or embroidered edge vary according to the Often the depths of pattern or design to be worked and the outline must be very carefully followed. and in satin stitch is the stitch taken straight across from one edge to the other of the design or taken on a slant from one edge to the opposite edge. boilings and ironings that the article on which they are embroidered will withstand. Our standing offer is as follows: "We Will Pay for Any Garment Injured Gumbac Foundations Through Washing or Re!s by Reis Ironing. The material in their composition is of European origin. Underlaying and Basting difficulties eliminated. Reis' Letters and Scallops make embroidering simply delightful with the Stamping. booklets. page IS. They are very simple. Reis Gumbac Foundations are not made of ordinary paper or even papier mache. silk or cotton. 620 Broadway.— (French Embroidery)— The or Initials. Lesson22. You will use the Satin Stitch in making in the Chevrons. especially silk will add to when working mono- Block Old English — easily accomplished 2-cent by interlacing Send us your name. yards REIS FOUNDATION LETTERS Are made Script in three styles: Harmonizing colors gramrr. LEARN AX OUR EXPENSE How easily the most inexperienced sewer can create perfectly stunning effects in embroidery with the new Reis Gumbac Foundations Scallops." 1J 4 Gumbac Scallops come in six styles— 26 patterns.— SATIN STITCH. sample strips of scallops and samples of the Reis Letters in your initial. Take stitch through material depth desired with needle pointing downward. of embroidery their attractiveness. The cut shown in Lesson 25. Just moisten the back and stick on. Nor will they discolor or harm the finest fabric.ed des'gns the letters. Hold thread under left thumb forming loop. and retail at a uniform price of 10c per card of to the small sizes and S of a yard to the large. and work over with That's all. REIS' FOUNDATION Letters and Scallops They add that much help to make your wearing apparel and household linen distinctively rich. many other designs so much vogue at the present time.

H. or Central 8258 K. The DOMESTIC Hand Cleaner is as powerful as the best portable electric. cabinet built and will the only hand cleaner The DOMESTIC is with attachments for cleaning Mattresses. is only Vacuum Cleaner with Full Ball-Bearings and a BaliBearing Adjustable Roller under the suction the plate for light or The DOMESTIC heavy cleaning. 510 The Arcade Page Cleveland. Then you must pad your scallops with the chain stitch using a good filling cotton. The old method is to buy a transfer pattern or hire the stamping done. With these attachments you have a cleaner with every advantage of an electric machine at a little greater cost than the best Bissell Carpet Sweeper.THE OLD WAY TO EMBROIDER SCALLOPS. Upholstery. pleasant and easy way. 15 STROUD CO. tedious and laborious manner of embroidering scallops new. & C. For free demonstration phone Main 2463. When your foundation is completed then embroider according to embroidery scallop is is There and there an a stitch. old. etc. Then a running stitch must be very carefully taken at the exact line desired to indicate the depth. Lesson 22. is The DOMESTIC last a lifetime. or come to our office. THE B. Ohio . E. D OMESTIC VACUUM C LEANER Dirt and Dust are a Constant Menace to Your Home A of large percent of our contagious dis- eases are carried into the home by reason germ laden dust.

Lesson 26. All you need to do is to moisten the scallop. which can be embroidered over without any of the preliminary work explained. and repeat. then punch with a stiletto. See cut of Lesson 25.— Begin by fastening thread by using running and back stitch. taking care to always have the stitches exactly the same distance apart and exactly the same height. F.the stiletto.— PUNCHED used for WORK.— BUTTONHOLE STITCH. a small distance apart. oblong or pointed. press down with your hand and work over with the stitch taught you in Lesson 22. Make stitches very even and rather tight and then shape perfectly with . for exact position of needle.— EYELETS EYELET EMBROIDERY. Bring up the the work. To save time and energy and to insure satisfactory results with your work. L. Hold thread under left thumb forming loop take stitch depth desired with needle pointing downward. This eliminates all the drudgery of stamping your design and all the filling-in work and gives a much more desirable effect than you can possibly obtain by the ordinary methods. oval. Proprietor THE NEW WAY TO EMBROIDER SCALLOPS. send it down in the first up again in the first dot of the first row and draw the thread slightly to pull the goods together. 1911 Cars Remodeled with Fore Doors and Repainted to Resemble 1912 Models Telephone--East S40 1970 EAST 66TH STREET.— BLANKET STITCH. Run a cotton thread around the outlines with very small running stitches to hold the form. Pass down needle dot of the dot of the second row. TRIMMING. NEAR CORNER OF EUCLID AVENUE Smith Carriage $ Auto Co. Then send the needle down in the first dot of the second row and bring it up in the second dot of the first row. bring in first the first it Page 16 . AND Set the needle for each stitch just outside the cotton outline stitch and draw the point through the stilettoed opening or set the needle through the opening. Smith. Either manner is correct. except that in embroidery the point of the needle is toward the edge while in buttonholeing the point of the needle is toward the cloth. By needle courtesy of Pictorial Review Co. — Lesson 24.—The Buttonhole stitch and the Embroidery Scollop stitch are done exactly the same (see Lesson 22).— Thread the long special and knot it at the eye. row. bringthe ing the point just outside the outline stitch. drawing needle through loop.— Eyelets may be round. Then fastening your thread on the under side of the material. begin work in the upper left-hand corner of the design. The blanket stitch is the same as the buttonhole stitch only each stitch is made instead of very close together as the buttonhole stitch is done. Lesson 25. procure the necessary length of Reis Foundation Gumbac Scallops. REMODELING AND REPAIRING. Lesson 23.AUTOMOBILE PAINTING.

Braiding is most suitable and effective for a border or a trimming for waists.li l —^— Page 17 . CLEVELAND. turn the naterial and repeat the stitch at right angles to the first set of stitches. OHIO m^m j i ——— jj i . Misses' Braided in and Children's Dresses. Coats and Blouses the latest. There infinite variety of beautiful designs and patterns now in vogue for is an Those braiding. serge or linen a braid or cord the color of the material should be used. Suits. chiffon braid or cord and a long stitch on the back. soutache.— BRAIDING. i Lesson 27. most artistic and approved designs. or marquisette a dull silver or fine gold or soft silk cord put on with button The stamping of hole couching makes a most beautiful border or trimming. suits. draw the thread a bit. Joseph Korach 1258 ^—^— & Company II. you have done all of the work in one direction. pass down through the second dot of When the second row and bring up again in the third dot of the first row. bring up through the second dot of the first row. bias tubing or fine embroidery or the design can be followed with the outline or chain stitch. gowns. To secure the most attractive effect the braid should be sewed on the edge so that it will stand up on the material. It can be developed with plain braid. evening wraps or children's dresses and can be used on any material. (Braiding and Embroidering) W. of your We also make buttons own call material in all styles. cord. not having the time or the inclination to do this work for themselves can make up their garment and then have experienced braiders neatly and carefully carry out your ideas in any simple or elaborate design which you may select. so the plainest or the most fastidious tastes can be satisfied. FOURTH STREET._l-Mi 1^- H I L^.^ through the second dot of the second row. The stitch used to sew on the braid is a short stitch on the right side of the For materials of net. these patterns for braiding must be most carefully done and the design followed exceedingly accurately in order to produce a satisfactory effect. Bring your work to us or phone and we will tell us up by either you what we can do for you. so that the effect will be one of little squares. Braiding Ladies'. On heavy goods such as velvet.

your monograms or We have plain and suitable for fancy letters every need of embroidery linen. and a number of purposes which present them- and children always delight in an emblem or chevron on their arm. You can either get the Reis emblems. work bags. Etc. etc. table covers. while grown ups always appreciate their monogram neatly worked on their garments. satin stitch (see you can stamp them on paper and baste them on the goods and embroider. Made in three styles-— Old English— Script— Block— sizes ^g inch to 10 inches. cutting the paper or crinoline away as soon as finOr you may embroider the chevished. will supply you with Reis Foundation Letters for any desired purpose Ask Q t the needlework department Lesson 28. Chevrons and emblems are very appropriate for sailor suits. household handkerchiefs. chevrons and monogram foundations and selves work over them with the Lesson 21). and sew on. CHEVRONS AND EMBLEMS.— MONOGRAMS. boys' suits. REIS 630 ASHABLE LETTERS •«amo r M«»OOIf)EBV BROADWAY NEW YORK The Morehouse Co. rons and monograms on a separate piece See of broadcloth or linen. Page 18 . Sold at the needlework department of every department and dry goods store or send for our illustrated bcok on embroidering and samples in your initials.Use Reis Foundation Letters for initials. or crinoline or stiff lessons on embroidery for the monogram work. such as lingerie.

and Six Skeins of Richardson's Mercerized Cotton Floss for BERNER'S ART STORE Arcade Building oniy 25 cents Page Cleveland 19 :: Ohio TOUR CHOICE OF TWELVE DESIGNS . This extraordinary offer is made to convince every woman of the superiority Richardson's Grand Prize Wash Embroidery Silk Why your home with attractive and not beautify effective pillows when the opportunity is offered? We will give you tire this en- Pillow Outfit including 1 Pillow Top — either oblong or square Every woman wants these attractive pillows and also knows the true value of —tinted on Aberdeen Crash. Richardson's 1 Back for Pillow 1 Grand Prize Grecian Floss On sale at Diagram Lesson arrangement of stitches — showing and color scheme.— This Beautiful Pillow FREE f All we ask is that you buy 6 skeins of Grand Prize Wash Embroidery Silk Richardson's or trated lesson for ZDC and a The fully illusPillow Top and Back are absolutely FREE.

at prices absolutely as low as at any cash store. but is much more palatable and tonic in its qualities.00 I'M THE MAN That'll Always Give You Down. THE BOTTLES ARE STERILIZED and rinsed with Katharos before being filled. Quality. 2035 East 18th Street Cent. PURE ALWAYS PURE— CONTAMINATED h°nes : N ^r t 34 6 The Electra Pure Water Co. None of the tonic values are lost. KATHAROS HAS LIFE AND SPARKLE. The volume of sickness traceable to SPRINGS is of vast proportions. It contains enough of the minerals and salts to make it the most healthful of drinking waters. 3241-W Cleveland. KATHAROS KATHAROS due to the liberation of gas during the electrolytic action.— Unless you have tested your skill in making buttonholes it will be wise for you to practice until you are in a fair way to feel confidence in your ability. IS AS AS DISTILLED WATER. Springs situated in proximity to thickly populated districts are peculiarly liable to sudden contamination. IS in which respect it is very unlike spring water. Distinction and Style. Women. NOTHING BENEFICIAL IS REMOVED by the process of purification. A SQUARE DEAL CWALLEY'S CREDIT STORE ^"^ 424 Euclid Ave. TERMS— $1. Ohio Page 20 . The Purest Water Sold in Cleveland ( Bacterial Tests Abundantly Prove the Truth of this Statement ) THE PROCESS OF PURIFICATION necessary for the production of Katharos is the most advanced known to science. First mark the exact length of buttonhole you desire. over cast the edges then work with the button hole stitch (as per Lesson 24). Clothes of the BETTER SORT of Clothing. which is best described as being pure until it is declared impure. otherwise you may ruin your garment. Pay as you can spare it. Boys and Children ON CREDIT HERE you'll find the NEW. in the exact place you desire it. then cut straight the slit to be worked. Cleveland. then run a thread around the space you intend to cut. the DIFFERENT. Ohio Lesson 29.Clothes of Quality for Men.— TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES.

and run your thread exactly along the lengthwise thread of the garment. then begin on the cross wise threads and run over and under the lengthwise threads altering the over and under stitch. then measure exact place button is needed.— Lesson 30. and mark either with a pin or with tailor's chalk. ON Lesson 31. Lesson 32. HAVE YOU EVER INSPECTED OUR LARGE FURNITURE STORE? It Will Pay Come You in to Do So see the filled. In mending stockings a darning ball may be used. leaving the thread moderately loose. Fasten the thread well on the under side by several over and over stitches. Fasten your thread with the over and over stitch. cor. DARNING. The darning thread to be used depends entirely — — — on the material to be darned. Always begin a little beyond the worn places so your stitches will hold. Place button directly over mark or pin and bring up thread through holes of the buttons. The Henke Furniture 3001-3021 Lorain Ave. When the button is securely sewed on wind the thread a few times around under the button and fasten well on the under side of the garment. and in many instances a thread or ravelling drawn from the goods itself is preferable.. such as stiff paper or thin oil-cloth. draw through cloth and bring thread loosely down to exact length desired. Get acquainted with our stock and new things with which our store is Let us show you what beautiful pieces can be had for little money. they should be basted on a flat surface. repeat three or four times or until you have thickness consistent with the weight of goods you are working on. as it should match in color and quality. Then begin at the bottom of the threads and insert the needle under the loops and over the thread. and examine our Furniture and Floor Coverings. then fasten well on under side. W.— SEWING BUTTONS. Page 21 Co. but in mending most materials. 30th . allowing the eye of the needle to pass under first. LOOPS. continue till loop is covered.— Have button hole completed first.

dry goods and notion stores.. silk garments. Cut piece of the Havanco tissue the of the piece of lay a paper on cloth over for stockings. place piece of goods like garment under hole. Same directions goods or other goods where part is worn thin and a patch required. send post paid upon the receipt 1382 West Ninth Street THE HALL-VAN GORDER COMPANY Page 22 CLEVELAND. Remember do patches. not have the iron HOT. Lesson 34. directions Re-seating or repairing knees of boys' pants. the stitch to mended without darning or is A is thread from the cloth used and begun back from the rent and the back and forth in running is stitch a slanting line taken until the tear has been closed. etc. and useful for making many other kinds of repairs quickly and effectively. If possible have your patch of the same material. and patches can be put on and repairs made on a moment's notice by adhering to the following directions: Brush leaving size it all dust from garments. — There are many materials such as rain-proof clothing or kid gloves. — Stoting. PATCHING. . OHIO . Black and Brown Ten Cents to the by package for . Baste patch on wrong side of goods. On the right side cut out the worn or frayed part and make a small slit in each of the corners and turn down evenly the edges and sew down neatly on both sides of the garment. boiled. HAVANCO MENDING TISSUE The best thing for repairing bottoms of skirts and pants. or that can be mended much better with the Havanco Mending Tissue than with needle and thread. all and press with a warm flatiron. a little larger than the hole.— Lesson 33. and on a rent or cut in a material which needs patching. druggists. One For sale piece each of White. silk goods and place it between the garment and the patch. — Stoting be is used on »%&&% WTPrfiiTi?lIli-- heavy goods. follow above for Garments repaired with Havanco may be washed and ironed but not Heat is the only thing that will affect it. also mending all kinds of rents in clothing. or will of the price in stamps. and cut it so the weave comes exact with the place to be mended.

which is controlled by a valve. A lady. except that the patch to a overhanded on the and the underside neatly cut down good seam and pressed. will use the lawn hose with such force as to drive everything before it. as there is no limit as to the supply of water.: Lesson 35. Cleveland. screw on cap and attach to end of rubber tube before putting on the spray and then screw on the vaginal pipe and the whole stream of water is medicated with the medicine. always ready.. if necessary.-. in washing off dirt from the porch.•> . The operator can use a pint or a gallon without stopping and at any force desired. y\ '. — The Ideal Patent Cup Attachment. a which has and when sponge in it. economical. With this Ideal Faucet Syringe you can get the same results. convenient. Ohio Page 23 . the overhand patch put on the same as the is Lesson 34). Can be used for everything a fountain syringe is used for.. while the ordinary fountain syringe has not enough force to it to dislodge germs. clumsy fountain syringe.. Ackerman's Patent Ideal Faucet Syringe and Bath Spray The most wonderful improvement ever made j-i i !<v . will last a life time. so long found inefficient and unsatisfactory. no cumbersome water bags to get out of order. It is entirely unlike the old style.— Where may be used. You can get any desired pressure or flow of water. in a syringe. IDEAL FAUCET SYRINGE COMPANY 9601 Cedar Avenue. perfect and effective syringe ever made. desired to use an antiseptic or sanative treatment in connection with a douche.. It is the most simple. whereas with the Ideal Faucet Syringe you can obtain any desired force. and the force of the stream can be regulated to suit the purpose for which it is used from a drop of water at a time to a pressure of 50 pounds. all that is required is to it is drop your medicine onto this Sponge in the cup. the goods are heavy and not It is often washed.— OVERHAND ordinary patch right side (see PATCH. sanitary.

and is an easy manner of disposing of the tailored seams. Sew up the seam in any of the ordinary ways described in the preceding lesson. Seams can be joined by machine stitching. — Piping is made of bias strips folded in the center. FELLED SEAM. allowing only the edge of The piping may be lined or unlined. or by making the felled or French seams. make a narrow turn up of the bottom edge and bring it up to cover the edge turned down. 0. When the fold is lined.— BANDS AND FOLDS. such as binding or overhanding the raw edges. considerably on tailored suits.— Cut it the bias strips twice in as wide as desired. or back stitch or the edge when of material that does not fray can be left raw or pinked.— Cut Lesson and basted N. turn down the fold and sew neatly just below the cord. and silk thread should always be used to join the seams of a garment made of wool goods. 41.— MILLINER'S FOLD.Lesson 36. On heavy goods that do not ravel or fray out to press back the edge of the seam. DOUBLE FOLD. and then turn under the edges of the fold and stitch with one or two rows of stitching.B. Hold the cord so cannot become twisted and place the exact center of the fold. but the stitching must be very straight and very even. — an exactly even depth under the fold. and stitch on either side gives a very good finish. Lesson 42. 4679 K Tables fnr Ladies DRINK Griffiths Restaurant 1022-1028 Prospect Avenue SENORA Always the Same CLEVELAND. — — Cent. With a narrow turning fold the broad edge over the narrow edge of the seam and hem either by hand or on machine. piping. Lesson 40. chain running stitch.—A true the material with the straight edge of the top lengthwise fold exactly. Lesson — — stitch. — — Lesson 38. —PIPING. Take your bias band twice the desired width and fold so the edges come exactly together. ends. Baste and sew on either by machine or by hand. — CORDING. obtained by folding on the selvedge or straight Folds and bands are used very neat trimming. or they may be protected in various manners. Good Try Our Home-like Baking QUALITY HAS BEEN OUR SUCCESS COFFEE Page 24 . & N. Great care must be taken that the stitches are not too fine on tailored seams. which is beautifully made at and ready for use. and cutting diagonally. and are width and join the diagonal bias is Lesson 37. your bias bands two and one-half times the width desired. Trim the under edge narrower than the outer. Ask your dealer for the W. 39. the canvas is basted in and the edges of the fold fastened down with the catch stitch. SEAMS. as they make a Cut your bias strips the desired easily made. Fold over the top edge. the bias strip to emerge.

Catch the overlap of the corners of the hem to the underlap. Hold goods toward you and turn neatly and begin at the right and sew insertion and material together with the slant stitch. overcast using the damask hem. Lesson 45. Turn back the wide fold and baste down the narrow edge and stitch with one or two rows of stitching. turn garment and sew on wrong side taking seam of depth to entirely inclose the first seam. LAPPED SEAM. -Make a plain seam leaving one edge wide and one edge narrow. while in others a hem is joined to a lace or embroidery insertion by what is called a roll hem. binding turns itself so all you need to do is to fasten the binding on by hand or sew it down with machine. binding.—THE FRENCH SEAM.— TO CORNERS. turn under exactly as for an ordinary hem. 50. The W. Stitch near the edge of the upper lap and again one-half inch back. when hemming can be done on the machine as it saves the measuring and basting. of Turn fold as of for an ordinary Fold back the linen the crease the first the hem and with very fine stitches. HEMMING. being careful the stitches do not show through on the right side. Hems are made by turning the edge of the material twice in any suitable depth and the fold fastened down with the slant stitch or by hemstitching or in some instances the plain running stitch. Lesson 47.— Sew the seam by machine. leaving just room enough to catch the stitches nicely. or after turning the edges for the hem fold toward the center. Lesson —DAMASK at HEM. very simple. Trim evenly and narrowly.) side of Page 25 .BELLE VERNON MILK the Best Milk Lesson 43. Baste down then hem with slant stitch (see Lesson S). Lesson — ROLLED the right side. Lesson 46. (See Lesson 5. HEM. The edges of the goods to be bound should be evenly trimmed and the binding basted on the edges. Lesson 44. Lesson 48. Lesson 49. Much time is saved however. — Is used for setting in insertion. yet deep enough so the turning includes all the edges. or hemstitch (see Lesson 17). or running stitch on the right side of the garment.— The proper material for binding the edges of seams is bias bands of silk. For the ordinary hem begin by making a narrow turning. and cut out the underlying corners. — Table It is linen can be very neatly hemmed by hem.— THE BOUND SEAM. WELT SEAM. Cut either bias or crosswise strips and turn under both edges and stitch over a plain seam. A lap seam is as its name implies one seam lapping over another. and overhand the end. and cut the material in the fold and hem — — HEM the bias edges. & N. linen or cotton. When finished take a moderately hot iron and press down wrong the hem on 51. STRAP SEAM. for your hem must be turned exactly even.— To hem square corners. or W. This is one of the simplest manners in which to dispose — — — — — — of a tailored seam. Then cut a strip of heavy paper or notch a piece of card board the exact depth you desire your hem and use this paper or card board for a marker. & N.

Neckwear. Etc. tucks by hand you must make a marker and fold exactly on the line and — — sew down carefully by machine or with running stitch. House Gowns. made of goods without a finished edge edge must be neatly hemmed the Art Pleating Shop 438 Old Arcade Cleveland Page 26 . Hats. Pleats are made the same as tucks. accordion pleating. B. In underwear the W. tape. Dancing Frocks. TUCKS. side pleating and sunburst pleating must be done but all a pleating establishment. FACINGS. — Ruffles may be made of straight or bias goods. In this instance the edge of the embroidery or lace must be heavy enough to entirely cover the edge of the material of the garment.— RUFFLES. Turn and sew down either with machine or with slant stitch. Etc. your goods into two or four even knot and use the simple running stitch.— SHIRRING. Always draw the ends of the threads through to the underside of the garment and tie carefully. Embroidery or lace may be used for facing on some articles by following the suggestion of cut which is done in the same way as the ordinary facing. embroidery. Dressing Sacques. then heavy draw goods on gathering string into exact position desired. Muffs. unless you have a pleating machine of your own. a piece of goods cut either across or down the weave of the goods will do. or on a seam. only you must always baste down your pleats. Lesson — — straight — Lesson 54. Children's Dresses. at Lesson 55. can be done as successfully on the sewing machine as by hand and very much quicker. lay a damp cloth over them and press so they will keep their fold nicely. Lesson — GATHERING. embroidery.— Is simply from two to as many rows of gatherOn most materials it ing as desired. 52. either N. Lesson 56. A first class sewing machine is provided with a tucker that can be gauged for any size tuck you desire. bias tape is most useful in innumerable instances. PL E ATI N G Accordeon Pleating and Side Pleating made in the newest effects for Party Costumes. so it is not necessary But to make to baste in your tucks after a little practice on your machine. Place the right side of the facing against the right side of the goods and sew firmly with machine or by running stitch.spaces. Maternity Dresses. Where lace or embroidery must be joined in tucks sew the cloth so the seam will come in the fold of and under the tuck. & N. Street Dresses. Use a bias band.— Divide rather make a 53. or the work will not look neat. Waists. Fancy Waists. The White Sewing Machine is provided with a tucker with which you can easily both regulate your tucks and the space between the tucks. lace. Facing of lace or embroidery around the neck or arm hole of sleeves is sometimes put on the right side making a trimming or finish. chiffon or any of If the ruffle is to be sheer materials. And many styles of Pleat ings for Trimmings of Dresses.

or the ruffle may be sewed on the right side and covered with a bias band. put the right side of the lace to the right If the machine is to be used put the edge side of the material and overhand. either by gathering (see Lesson 52). of insertion. For sale at all first-class druggists. waists. turn hollow side (see — Page 27 . On page 32. which is done exactly as overcasting. you will find a cut of the Wilson Dress Hook and Eye. See page 96 for partial list.Moth 71. belts. where an ordinary hook or buttonhole would be placed. They are flat and invisible and never slip open as To sew on.— SEWING ON HOOKS AND EYES..— Baste the lace or embroidery on the right side in the exact position desired. Props. gentle cathartic fL-J^y^-* & - RememberZOA-PHORA Stomach and gratifying results. and stitch on right side. which we recommend for skirts. where hooks and eyes.. work a ruffle of lace or embroidery may be put on with the whip stitch (see Lesson 6). Cut out goods Carefully baste down hem over edge leaving enough only for a narrow hem. The White Sewing Machine has an attachment wherewith the hemming is done and the lace or embroidery sewed on with one operation. children's garments or any purpose. PRICE. dresses. When the food is not being properly digested and the Liver refuses to work and the whole system becomes clogged with poison and you need a good. Headache. Lesson 58. ZOA-FHORA KALAMAZOO. 25 CENTS. MICH. and if desired an edging may be sewed on either by machine The ruffle is attached to the garment or neatly overhanded (see Lesson 6). undergarments. ZOA-PHORA STOMACH The Scientific AND LIVER PILLS and Effectual Remedy for Biliousness. snap fasteners or buttons can be used.— SETTING IN LACE OR EMBROIDERY.— If the lace or embroidery is to be put on by hand. Lesson 48). Lesson 57. and cannot rust. make a second turning and hem. of the wrong side of the lace or embroidery to the edge of the right side of the hem and stitch. bias tape. & N. to the necessary fullness and by placing the right side of the material and ruffle together and sewing firmly. sew hook so often happens with the ordinary hook and eye. and all Disorders Arising from a Sluggish Liver and Imperfect Digestion. Lesson 59. The Wilson Dress Hook and Eye is easy to hook and unhook. Liver Pills Stomach have been used for over half a century with most For habitual Constipation and Bowel Trouble use the ZOA-PHORA Anti-Constipation Pills. quick. Or the lace or embroidery may be set in by using the roll hem.— SEWING ON LACE OR EMBROIDERY. Liver Pills CO. B. or with a piece of the W. N. taking pains to catch through the narrow hem on the underside. (See Lesson 48). Or again the ruffle may be inserted in the hem by placing the right side of the garment and the ruffle together and turn hem back to In very fine the wrong side of the garment.

— MARKING OF LINEN UNDERWEAR. light hlue Mark and can he had in several . fleeze lined and woolen underwear. in a REIS' ENGRAVED NAMES t'anilin. The gauze. Broadway and Bleecker ®*s NEW VCKK o^v/rv. but a more attractive way is to use the catch stitch (see Lesson 11). The Warren Feather Bone for stays or collar supports can be stitched by machine into the lining of the article to be boned. REIS & BRO. You can get these letters or monograms in nearly any shade or style and all you need to do is to baste them on your fabrics and work over them with your embroidery cotton or silk. for they are perfect and durable and will stand the boiling and ironing of the laundry without being damaged in the least. However. lingerie and handkerchiefs beautifully monogrammed or with carecuff.es for $1. Every garment and piece of linen in your home should be marked. ami are easily cut apart anil . many prefer to use the feather stitch (see Lesson 18). which gives the inside of the boned' article a very pretty finish. initials plainest form the distinctive mark which The Reis foundation washable letters lends dignity to the or the Reis initial medallions should always be used.— PUTTING IN STAYS AND COLLAR SUPPORTS. s accident.. woven initials made on woven tape which can be neatly overcasted on the inside of the garment. Lesson 61. aprons and children's clothes. very quickly and easily done. What MARK YOUR GARMENTS WITH REIS' WOVEN NAMES Vonr garments should hear your name. is This or the Reis fully embroidered articles. prevents loss by laundries and hotels. in the most elaborate gowns. ami will identify you in case of REIS' NAMES come in si jj. in fact all laundered garments should be marked with the name or at least the initial of the member of the family to whom the article belongs.25 IV arr-. as are the ordinary hook and fastener.. Lesson 60. St. The stitch used is simply sewing over and over through the small round holes of the hook and eye. G.sewn to an i Sm Phora won't do for garment.- Printed from Engraved Black on fine Tape: WOMANKIND no medicine will.i different style letters. $2. It saves annoyance. and sew the eye where an ordinary eye or button would have been placed. Men's shirts should be marked with an embroidered initial just above Linen. They never wear out. JL22Z Pa ere 28 . REIS' WOVEN NAMES are machine woven <>n good quality white "a m hi ic tape in either red. besides being a substantial stitch to hold the boning secure. uji 100 200 Names for $1.25 for 72 Names Names Plate-. as well as in the simplest.00 for 144 $1.75 If your dry p><<ds store cannot take youi orders send youi order with remittance direct to us. navy. by procuring the Reis woven names.toward the cloth and the straight edge toward edge of cloth. the hosiery.

Y.. Served from 11 25 Cents to 2 p. pajamas.The Hawley Cor. and ^-* R "IS • it 9 EMBROIDERED SHIRT INITIALS is West Third St. (CLEVELAND Sixth City initial sleeve or pocket of shirts. Price. Joseph Korach Both Phones 1258 Page 29 & Company W.— EMBROIDERY DESIGNS. Reis' Initials elimate all this work. G ReiS & BrOS. m. Ohio . 10c. m. Clair Ave. each or 3 for 25c. On nearly all smart garments from the marquisettes and sheer chiffon and silks and dainty lawns to the heavier materials and all wash goods you will find at least a suggestion ranging from the pretty French knots and the simple outline and chain stitch following the simplest of patterns to the most intricate. Embroidery Send or bring us that piece of Embroidery that you do not know how or have not the time to trouble to do. However should you prefer to have the embroidery done by more experienced fingers than your own or have not the time to devote on that part of the decoration of waist or gown you will do well to take it to your local embroiderer where the work will be done by trained hands who make a specialty of lessons together with full directions for of embroidering. navy. We also make buttons of your own material. beautiful and elaborate creations. Lesson 62. There is no trimming or ornamentation for waists. N. embroidered initials are very beautiful. Our experienced embroiderers can work out in perfect effects any design you may choose for any purpose Either machine cr hand work. 4th St. CJA11 you have to do is stick them on and work over with silk or cotton. work a. etc. but pretty AVERYon the fad to have the Hand Regular Dinner. 630 Broadway. The designs and stitches used will depend entirely upon the taste of the individual and the style and texture of the garment. in all styles. St. requires artistic ability and much to make an attractive design. green. dresses or wash suits which meets the refined feminine approval more than embroidery designs. (Braiding and Embroidering) Cleveland. but all of the stitches ordinarily used will be found in this series stamping and making the garment. lavender and black. ii red. white.

(Cotton) Thread. — Hooks and Eyes — Patterns 15 — Linings. shall be glad to show it up and let it speak for itself. Your machine must be kept perfectly clean and well oiled and by keeping the tension adjusted just right you will not need to give it much further attention. A modern machine is supplied with attachments that will hem. It is always a bad investment to buy an inferior.Buy a Sewing Machine before you see the WHITE. hemstitch and in fact do nearly everything that the human fingers can do in this line and a wise woman will keep her attachments always on hand and use them whenever possible for they will save her hours of useless labor. MACHINE Avenue Phones CHAPTER XI. with ordinary care will last a lifetime so the greatest of caution should be used in selecting one. see page 31D). (See page 19— Dress Shields. A good sewing machine (B) THREADS. see that you have the necessary accessories at hand with which to do your work.) 41. (See page 16— Stiffenings 17 — Tape. (See page 18— Trimmings. Before beginning the making of a garment. better and quicker it will do your sewing. (See pages 12 13 14 34. On the other hand do not attempt to use a coarse thread in a fine needle or a fine thread in a large needle. made in One is of the greatest mistakes is sewing is the use of a needle that too large and thread that too coarse. but and a large spool of white basting thread and a spool of colored basting thread to use where it is not expedient to mark with a pencil or tailor's chalk. NECESSARY SEWING ACCESSORIES. (Basting) Thread. (See page 21 — Dress Forms. and ? learn how much easier. (Silk. the thread should just pass easily through the eye of the needle. reliable and reputable make can be purchased. The articles usually required are: 1 2 —Cutting Scissors — Button Hole Scissors Stick 3— Yard 4 — — — 8— 9— Pins 10 — Tailor's —Tracing 5 —Tape 6 7 Line Needles Thread. gather. quilt. 426 ProspectCO. Rotary Shuttle IX! We and "Sit-Strate" Machines. provide yourself with a variety of sizes of cotton spool thread Be sure and Page 30 .) 37. cheaply made machine when for the same money or a few dollars more a first class.) SEIWNG MACHINE. Chalk — Skirt Marker.) 39. 11 Wheel (A) 40 and 41. (See page 20— Boning. or where a line of tucks or trimming is desired.) 38.) 36. Botti WHITE SEWINGNo. DO DON'T DO WHAT Vibrator.

then you'll need the WHITE. etc. a seam sewed with silk is infinitely stronger. BELDING'S SEWING SILK the finest quality of raw silk. and It may will always retain its original shape. and yet the results will be disappointing. and so if you are progressive and desire to do your sewing under the most advantageous conditions. and we will BELDING BROS. count of its great strength. elasticity and fast color. silk will wash and wear without fading. on acproper texture. With it you can do work that can't possibly be done on any other machine. Embroidery silk will give that rich.DON'T GUESS you as a Sewing Machine user of the White Tension Indicator but see it for yourself. and so available only for White at the value to buyers. WHITE SEWING MACHINE BOTH PHONES (C) 426 CO. lustrous and beautiful effect that cannot be obtained with any of the imitations or substitutes. PROSPECT AVENUE EMBROIDERY THREAD. and while embroidery silk more than cotton or any of the other substitutes. is strong. requisites in dressmaking is the thread used in sewing the seams. they are always unsatisfactory and a garment not properly is — Page 31 . is The kind of embroidery material all important." write tell you where you can get it. is made from your dealer does not carry "Belding's. Great care may be used in selecting styles. Be sure to drop in and see it at first opportunity. no greater extravagence than to invest in a cheap worthless eye. consequently. and made in every conceivable color and shade. if the thread is not of the Silk thread is particularly adapted for seam making. not be generally known that silk is the strongest fiber known to mankind.. and that a yard of pure silk thread will stretch from two to three inches. trimmings. will give to a stress. & CO. It's exclusively White. cloth. If us. Pure costs One of the (D) most important SEWING THREAD. smooth and elastic. 528 Broadway NEW YORK There hook and (E) HOOKS AND EYES. the results to be obained will more than justify the difference in expense. whereas a cotton or linen thread has no "give" or "stretch".

10c several garments. Can not catch on trimmings. Cleveland.kooks FuBI-Size Card Sent V.** 198 St. Always Dress-hook Co. neatly closed and perfectly flat if you use these un ique hooks Though you can unhook them with per. — will fastened is ruined.E. its Many to of the common The brands of hooks and eyes will rust and leave marks on your garment.. 10c a My Name Street Ask for Wilson Dress-hooks on all ready-to-wear . Gray.* invisible they never pull they do not leave the usual "bunch" which tells where other yf' Cleveland.. No matter how loose or tight your garment. lation to They are truly a reve- on Dress. Black and White colors. "Thank you. oard of one dozen. Page 32 . while others L-oi. They are Wilson Dress-hooks. .. White) previous sample Sold at notion counters everywhere (remember the orange and black card) Large and Small sizes. garments Address J The Wilson Dress-hook Company 198 St.ig not go through the is laundry without pieces. O. card Wilson Dress-hooks. fect ease. E. best thing to do to make sure that This Embarrassment Can Never Come to You if You Use the hooks that can't "pop" open accidentally or allow the dress to gape and spread. N. So flat . out beyond the edse and show. Outwear Tlense send. J His Address. and eyes. provided you have not previously had a free card Dress-hooks are guaranteed not to rust or crush in washing The Wilson and .ClairAve.'ilson i pppp H E» d Fill Out This Coupon . free.N. upstairs and I'll run fix it." women accustomed to troublesome hook-.. Name J. the back is always smooth. 1 My er's Deal- Ave.. snap fasteners or buttons. Clair * y* ^* Town . making them invaluable on wash garments.State.omng. — Black. Ohio hooks are sewn.

to the style book and pat- We mention: Conovers' Naiad Dress Shields Warren 's Featherbone Wilson's Hooks and Eyes £5? Embroidery Foundations Coat Fronts. because we make a specialty of all the little the linings and findings.. realize the These women Each season fabrics finds here the newest of cloths. the quality of thread. Page 33 . We Specialists in Dressmakers'' Supplies '"THE BEST DRESSED and making of their WOMEN are most often those who take the keenest interest and pleasure in the small details clothes. silks in large and dress things. Coat Pads. and always and pleasing assortments. the kind of hook and eyes. importance of the little things not only the quality and style of fabrics. Co. all the best of such are here. And.— you have a brand that in will not rust and that will positively hold your garment recommend and use in our demonstrations the Wilson Dress Hook and Eye. but the finish of lining. is at hand. place. Shoulder Forms and Bust Forms The Ladies' Home Journal Patterns Reis Bros. Every convenience tern. shields and dozen other seemingly trifling details. which we find is always reliable and satisfactory and costs no more than any other good fastener.

cloak or garment. & CO. Look for and accept no substitute. on account of the practice of adulteration or weighting. BELDING BROS. however. 528 Broadway NEW YORK CITY LININGS. some of the most reliable silk manufacturers are weaving their names in the selvage of the lining as a guarantee of wear. satisfactory lining for your suit. you are assured of a If your garment does not require a or satin lining. select silk linings that will By procuring reliable. It is naturally the most beautiful of all fabrics for lining purposes. No fabric will wear as well as a pure dye silk fabric. you should take into consideration the HEXTER'S LINING STORE Dress Makers' Supplies and 1 Tailors' Trimmings " "Everything for your Dress but the Goods 153-155 Arcade : : Euclid Avenue Entrance Page 34 . for the average person to wear well. very difficult. In order to overcome this difficulty. as is in the exterior. effect in the lining of a coat (F) It is just as essential to it have a satisfying Silk is or jacket.Belding's Pure name on the selvage. Dye Guaranteed Satin the every yard guaranteed to give satisfactory wear. Belding's Pure silk Dye Guaranteed Satin.

The cost of a pattern is so small and the help they give so great that you cannot afford to take chances of wasting your goods without a pattern to guide you.. asking them to show you their newest and most appropriate linings for the purpose which you desire. according to sty!e. have hooks and eyes in the back or front. Nausea. the seams are very loosely stitched. Page 35 . overcomes all obstacles. or professional have to suffer before they attain the result which you obtain in a ready made Grean Fitted Waist Lining. as new linings are constantly coming into fashion. for if you do so you will take every chance of making a complete misfit of your garment. illustrating precisely how to put the garment together. They are all finished. quality and texture of your material and go to a reliable lining store. which is ready for use without having the trouble of cutting. fitting. 327-329 East 34th St. With every Pictorial Review Pattern you will find a Cutting Guide show- ing exactly how to lay on your goods to the best advantage and how to guard against making any mistakes in cutting. cutter and fitter never attempt to make even the plainest garment without a pattern. New York weight. this affords easy ripping if a fitting is necessary and all the fitting is done at the upper part of the waist in all instances. Pain or Distressed Feeling in the Stomach. Heartburn. Unless you are an experienced designer. but simple principle which is embodied in the Grean Waist Linings. which dressmakers at home. /A / \ ± ±J. finish it. by knowing exactly the — required amount to make the article in question. boning. where a fitted lining is not desired the Grean Invisible Net Foundations will be most valuable to you. so with this Manual of Sewing and Dress Making and a Pictorial Review Pattern. This & 51 - 00 name Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Company. Always select a pattern exactly your own size don't get one a size too large or a size too small. Dyspepsia. They are made in linolawnblack. boned. white and grey percaline. but above the boned portions and on the shoulders. \J XV A Digestive Tablets See ?oT 96 special offer For Indigestion. Always get your pattern before buying your goods if possible. (G) PATTERNS. but you may rest assured that the new. as it eliminates the endless preliminary fittings. If you are lining a waist that needs a fitted lining. you will find it easy to cut and fit and make any garment you may desire. much time can be saved by using the Grean Fitted Lining. and all Disagreeable Symptoms arising from a Disordered Stomach. Sour Risings. To all those who have not tried them it seems impossible.FITTED WAIST LININGS is considered one of the most important inventions of the present time. write us today ana we will supply you direct or give you of a reliable dealer who handles our line. for often you can save a yard or so of goods or save yourself from running short of material. Be careful and purchase the exact size or exactly what your measure is around the waist and you will have a good fitting lining. putting on hooks and eyes and finishing. Belching of Gas. and in white and black Corsica silk. Every person should buy one of grey percaline fitted to herself. and you will need to be informed as to the best. Bloating. 25 cents per box y (^ jTV " pTTfvn l\. or if it is a light weight waist. the If your dealer cannot supply you. and have it stuffed up for the purposes of having her own figure for fitting 75c and draping in the workroom. There is also a Construction Guide.

For the waist you will need it in many instances.— (H) It is TAPE.." Bias Seam Tape INDISPENSABLE IN THE SEWING ROOM Saves half the work making a garment. almost impossible to make any article of wearing apparel without tape. for the binding around the neck and armholes and many other purposes." Bias Seam Tape Are you taking advantage of its Cambric and Lawn. 4 widths (5-16 in. &N. finishing or It will binding seams on all materials and for fagotting. i in highest grade n - to 1 in. E. not shrink. and for this BIASSEAHTAPt It turns itself "W. also in India Linon. & Sons Co. Mf rs . Wm. F. TRADE MARK REGISTERED Once used Always used Beware of Imitations AT ALL DEALERS A is very useful article for piping. Dept. Silk. showing colors. Wright 40 Lispenard St. for the support for the hooks and eyes. Sample reference book free. wide).. Made "W. to }A in. 13 widths Pure Linen and wide) usefulness. a necessity in the home sewing room. Page 36 . while on your skirts your seam must be bound.? White and (*4 colors. NEW YORK. & N. widths and quality of materials.

instead of facing.Y.I!. there is an odor from the rubber of the cheaper shields that is very offensive to a refined woman. On your underwear you will need it to bind over your embroidery ruffles. you will see this tape neatly put on with the tiniest of slant stitch making a support just below the scallop of the embroidered edge and you will find it most satisfactory to follow their example..— purpose no tape answers so well as the W. tOnOVer LO. On the Parisian lingerie. Bias Seam Tape. which is ready for use and turns itself so the edge is always neat and even. of from perspiration be sure and select a cheaper shields on the market today are anything but satisfactory and the ruined waists showing the stains just below the shields are a result of their use. you will find that a support of the W.. & N. which nothing in the world of the kind can rival in daintiness and beauty. We use in our demonstrations and always recommend the Naiad Dress Shield. protecting your garments shield reliable When dress — so many the The Crowning Attribute of Lovely Woman is Cleanliness NAIAD DRESS SHIELD SUPREME Beauty ! IN Quality ! Cleanliness ! POSSESSES two important and exclusive features. & N.N. (I) DRESS SHIELDS. Added to these the fact that an unreliable shield will not wash and cannot be kept sanitary makes it imperative to procure a good reputable shield that can be relied upon to protect your gown or jacket. stores or sample pair on receipt of 25 Tl 1 he f* T* /"* t. Narrow Bias Seam Tape means an additional wear of many months. At the cents. 101 Franklin St. Page 37 . and when you have an embroidered edge to your garment as seen in Lesson 79. It does not deteriorate with age and fall to powder in the dress can be easily and quickly sterilized by immersing Guarantee with Every Pair in boiling water for a few seconds only. f* Manufacturers. And then too.

collar-foundations.(J) BONING. The class dress- is by far the (The Perfect Boning) for Waists. first it makers and subject of boning can be quickly disposed of. giving permanent shape To bone a waist Send for requires less than 10 minutes our Instruction Booklet with attachment for machine FREE When buying waist-bones. Michigan Page 38 . Girdles and Collars because Stitching bone in on by machine holds the place. for all tailors use only the Warren Feather Boning. insist and leaded dress weights that they are u -ip^M&tt" YtMendif£u Three Oaks. Linings. as best known and most reputable boning on the market. girdles collar-sets. collar-bones.

near NEW YORK Nothing so good for skirt And base this little box tlwi S». It is the practical invention of a woman and consists of a nonleakable air chamber made of specially prepared m and well covered rubber cloth. Write today for new illustrated booklet' "It's You." Edition H-I.. you do your own dressmaking or have it done at your home you should by all means provide yourself with a Dress Form. If you are ^eiiftxriii It's You The Wonderful Pneumatic Dress Form Sold In Many First Class Stores Pneu Form is the easiest and handiest dress form the world to manipulate. Pneu Form is mounted on an adjustable standard rod which may be raised or lowered to the exact height desired. and enables you to study your own form while you work upon your own garments. not only as a means to secure correct and perfect lines and insure a well fitting garment. serves for any number of persons by simply changing the waist lining. For waist. One Pneu Form. you simply inflate it inside your fitted waist lining and before you stands YOU shoulders. bust and hips with looking glass — — fidelity. skirt and dress making and fitting or for dress repairing at home. It relieves you of tiresome standing hour after hour for fittings. but to save yourself the time and the tediousness of trying on your gowns.(K) If DRESS FORMS. nothing can possibly take the place of Pneu Form.6th St. containing full description and prices. To make Pneu Form perfectly. 557 Fifth Ave. jjBK fitting and holds draping it all Page 39 . Pneumatic Form Company J. reproduce your form.

With a dress form which reproduces your own lines perfectly you will be able to get a better fitting garment than if it was tried on yourself. Pictorial Review Pattcis 10c & 15c Main EAGLE STAMPS FREE with Every Purchase Floor Euclid Page 40 . a Dress Form of proper size and shape to aid you the form is always ready. Shears and Tape Measure.50. saves time and annoyance and its cost — many times over. conforming to any size or shape desired. and will last a lifetime. Euclid.50.. these economical prices. Correct model bust and dress forms at $1. and the fit of your garment is of far more importance than the quality of the material. can be adjusted at neck. simply and durably made. $1. Skirt can be adjusted to any style and can be raised or lowered to any desired skirt length. stands without tiring.00.00.making your own gowns there is no way without assistance that you can fit yourself without a Dress Form. $5. $12. Hall-Borchert's complete correct Model Adjustable Form is in every way up to date. $10. have a dress form by all means buy it at The May Co.00. If you sew.00 and $15. for during the tedious. main floor. — — t^ —of trying to see dress fits in the how your back or how —effectively by the use of the skirt hangs with the aid of a looking glass need no longer trouble you if you have a Dress Form of your exact figure. $3.00. $2. waist. etc.. hips. tiresome fittings you change position so often that you are liable to change your lines. and YOUR VERY IMAGE in lines and proportions can be reproduced with a Hall-Borchert and Majestic GUARANTEED Perfect Fitting Dress — Form — Every style included Adjustable and Non-Adjustable— of which we show a large variety for every purpose and figure.00.e sewing room as the Sewing Machine. $8. and get the benefit of Notion Dept. Dress forms are now considered just as necessary just as indispensable to equipment of t .50.

Dress Forms made and your dealer will gladly demonstrate them to you. One can always procure such a variety of silks. are supplied with a dress today has neither the time or the patience to be manner. You should secure a Dress Form before attempting to make any of the up-to-date gowns.the entire fit of your gown be of ruined. if only a dash of it. their All first-class dressmakers desirous of saving their customers' time. but take a sample of your goods and go to a first-class dress trimming establishment and ask to be shown suitable trimmings for your goods and often you will find something new and attractive that in the ordinary way would have escaped your atten- The plainest. should usually be chosen. When you have a gown or suit that needs trimming. do not go to the first store you happen to pass and take anything that may be presented to you. laces. most inexpensive gown can be made attractive with well selected trimming. braids. tion entirely. and which is impossible to get when you fit yourself We show two of the most reliable reputable without one of these forms. the fitted in the old. for and own as well. tedious woman (L) DRESS TRIMMINGS. whose beauty depend so much upon the graceful lines. A person with a dull. Cleveland Dress Trimming Company ^ V^ 4 6 Euclid Ave. form. colorless complexion must always study the trimmings and adornment of their costume and some bright color. that a harmonious. 1 COVERED tooR DE R ^ ^ of Second Door East Opera House Page 41 . suitable and desirable effect can be obtained. bands and special trimmings.

both edges of the opening must be faced. to get 2 — Cut easily into it on. F. it be in the making of the buttonholes.CHAPTER VII. upper fold. SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS In the following lessons we teach you the right way of making each part of a garment and in the succeeding lessons whenever that portion of the article is to be made. confusing the one who is up valuable space with unnecessary repetitions. Do not do it carebut see that your pattern is laid on correctly and pinned securely and that you cut accordingly. that you do not opening of the plackets. Home Cooking No Waiting Prices Reasonable M. P. Luncheon 11 to 2 NEW CENTER LUNCH CLUB 813 Prospect Ave. The following rules must be observed. C. The mark which reveals the inexperienced or careless sewer is more quickly and more likely to be seen in the finish of the placket than in any other part of your garment. 1 — Cut lessly. careful that every stitch that shows through on the right side be positive 5 and even. just far enough the garment. unless perhaps. only the best of hooks and eyes. Kirby Building MAIN 1565 No Waiters O'Brien Building MAIN 3914 Lesson 63. Your skirt will never fit smoothly across the back of the hips if you do. Wilson Hook and Eye. Don't have it too long nor yet so short an opening that you immediately tear open the placket. Page 42 7— In . or in trying of the stretch the edges 4 — Be —Use belt. The bottom of the placket must be made secure on the under side. Stretching these edges means always a full baggy look.— PLACKETS. your placket opening down exactly the right length. 6 We most highly recommend the notch at the right place on — See that the placket comes to the exact your making a placket. 3 — Be careful in picking up your skirt. your placket binding exactly after your pattern. reference will be made to the specific lesson treating of that particular subject instead of repeating the and over again. same general instructions over seeking information and also taking SENSIBLE PLACES TO LUNCH EUCLID CAFETIERE 328 Euclid Ave. (Lesson the eyes sewed on the under facing and the hooks on the facing of the 53).

cut a straight piece double the width desired. 2j^ inches wide and fitted by gusset seams and boned Lesson BELTS AND BANDS. 64. You can get the Grean Belt in three distinct styles: 1 Having bones as wide as the belting.A. the Grean Co. Turn the top of the folded edge toward the garment and stitch.— BELTS AND BANDS.— YOKE AND PEPLUMS— A yoke is a very particular part of a garment to make. A peplum is used instead of a belt or band or draw string to hold down at the waist and Page 43 . For this purpose wide belting is used. — — — effect. Skirts and dresses at present are made with high belt. The object of the bone above the belt is especially useful to unlined or loose linings as some of the material can be draped or attached to boning. have improved this method by offering a seamless shaped belt thoroughly shrunk.^XA.— The belt or doubled or may However. If desired the belt or band can then be entirely stitched around. For sale by all upon leading druggists or mailed to you receipt of 50 cents. 2 With bones ejecting above the belting. 3 With boning above and below the belting to form a pointed bodice into shape.band may be of one piece be of one piece lined or faced. for ordinary belting. but a peplum is much easier especially to fit. Ohio Lesson 65. Turn over the under edge and hem down to cover the seam on the inside of the garment. Cleveland. for the draping of waists. especially as wide belting shrinks from one to three inches to the ward. If the belt or band is faced sew the straight strip and the facing together and proceed the same as directed above.'V K I XI -r Safe Reliable Effective The Wonderful Cleansing. which is a feature not to be overlooked in wash dresses. If double. Healing and Soothing Antiseptic Ever Used for a Douche for Practically All Female Weakness Sanar can be used without fear of injuring the* most delicate or affected tissues as it does not smart or burn and is highly recommended by many of the most eminent physicians in this country. No Married Lady Should Be Without This Wonderful Antiseptic SANAR REMEDY 746 Euclid Avenue CO.^. For the Use of Careful Refined Women A A K^ C* A\ T\T l\ T"} ^ AA. A trial will convince you of its merits.

. of the fashionable waists of today the is However. Ready-to-Wear. Rugs. effect fitted. be entirely done from the shoulder seams If it The fitting of the yoke must and the small space of the under arm seams. yoke — attach collar (Lesson 66 or 68). peplum — gather the waist or corset cover if it at the yaist line and put on exactly as were a skirt you were attaching. All alterations for the neck seam both on the shoulders and must be made from the shoulder seams only. but cases a yoke must be most carefully 76). Opposite New Market Page 44 Etc. fitting of the peplum all adjustments must be made at the joining is You should be it sure the pattern exactly the right is size about the waist before using. West 25th.keep in in proper position the gathers of the corset cover or waist. Sew up seams If If either by machine or by hand (Lesson 41). across the chest in wrinkles let is too tight if or draws out from under the arm and too loose in the neck and across the chest take up the under the arms. fit and alter (Lesson 77). COMF>AMY "Where things are as represented" A GREAT STORE ALWAYS BUSY Prices Always as 5"flK3 Low or Lower Than Elsewhere Dry Goods. style many the peplum waist. tight or will Care must be taken that the peplum not made too draw up and wrinkle. For the seams. Cut out (Lesson Baste up. is a part of the of garment and worn outside of the In is such not instances the in peplum must be exceptionally well any and all fitted or the good.

Baste in soft pliable French canvas after you have carefully shrunk it. for the canvas cannot be sewed in the seam with the lining without making it a little bunglesome.'/] . 3. turning under the edge and carefully overcast (see Lesson 6).' . You will find Orean Tailor Made Coat Collars beautifully shaped and pressed. unless you are experienced in tailoring. Sew on trimming.in its proper place. i underpart. in collar supports (Lesson 60). "Tailor /ff. Accept no imitations or substitutes. so best to buy the under collars ready made. . / / ' .' v/m "-- / ' ' '\ \ * Collar. 7.--V/ • '. 4. Grean for those who find it difficult to shape an<^ ma ke the under-collar. cutting it out the seam's width from the edges. * -. Tailor-Notch < . but if you wish to try to them yourself the following instructions should be followed: make Cut out exactly after pattern. Lesson 67. 8. designed by Mr.' ' \ vl | e_ 13C Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Company New York 327-329 East 34th Street. being careful to keep the goods and the canvas and the lining always perfectly smooth. Press again. . Men's coats are never and invariably made in ' \ i \\ \ \ \ i /' ' ' ' 1 ' either black or grey cloth. stitch. Large stitches and an uneven turn of the material of the collar would ruin the appearance of the most beautiful suit. taking great pains that your stitches do not show any more than you can help and that you have entirely covered the seam of the underpart of the collar and that you have kept an even line.-JJ^C? Made Coat -^i ^hia is .— TAILORED COLLARS.' /'-'<> /jVA/ < 'C-'/y /. taking care the stitches do not show through. in the A it perfect cut of tailored collars is shown above figure. We will supply you direct or through a reliable dealer and send you a catalogue of other dressmaking helps. write us. . Press very carefully. It is not necessary any more to make collars of cloth to match on the ' . Catch the edges of the canvas to the cloth with the catch stitch (see Lesson 11). \f'i 1 / . If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealer's. 10. 2. Attach lining of collar to right side of garment and sew down by machine. 2—Turn seams around lining should be of cambric — Hem down with slant - Lesson 66. which if is 3 necessary for the material which you are using. 9. 5. Sew around the bottom edge and the sides and turn right side out. 4 5 6 — Sew —Sew —Sew on all trimmings and ornaments. sufficient 1 in collar to hide lining. 6.— HIGH entire COLLARS. so the canvas will keep . W"-"^ made \ \ so. on hooks and eyes (Lesson 59). Collars" a regular //-^^\ A /i'/""" /A *J'f r'/x'f /'. Lay right side of goods to right side of lining and baste. The tailored collars are rather difficult to is make 1. Then bring the outside material of collar neatly and smoothly down.— Cut out (Lesson 76).

capacities.— TURN DOWN 1 COLLARS. only If stiffening is necessary use cambric or the finest. 20). most pliable French canvas and baste it smoothly on the wrong side of the 2 — — Cut out (Lesson 76). as Your character sketch three above stated and any questions scientifically and answered by mail. using the fine running stitch slant stitch (Lesson (Lesson 5). perfectly Strictly confidential. 3 — If lined turn right of lining to right of collar. material. personal The Acme College 1714 of Science its Adams St. business. Ohio kind in The only incorporated College of Our students and satisfied patrons the United States and Europe. America.00.. or the Page 46 . Price $1. Toledo. softest. are found throughout Lesson 68. 6 If collar is to be left separate turn inside edges and neatly stitch or sew down by hand. 5 right right side side edge of to of garment and —Turn — collar under side of edge of and hem down neatly to cover seam. and is stitch at outer gar- edge.YOUR CHARACTER SKETCH SCIENTIFICALLY GIVEN By the Expert and Noted Character Readers of the Acme Your perfectly defined College of Science — Incorporated under the laws of Ohio 1907 social Est. and domestic qualities and your physical condition correctly diagnosed. 4 — If collar to attach of top to ment turn collar stitch. 1899 abilities.

(Lesson 53). See Cutting Guide. where the fullness starts.— SLEEVES. and some are not. bottom of 6— Find the 5 1 and 3. page 51. except the opening of the sleeve where cuff is attached must be faced back. on and if Try al- necessary make (Lesson 77). thin. Many beginners think sleeves are the hardest part of the garment to put together. but much of the difficulty is removed if proper care is taken in observing the directions and in- structions and paying strict at- tention to the 1 notches. New York Lesson 69.PATENTED SHOULDER FORMS Shoulder Forms are used not for disfigured shoulders. full- and tack again where the ness being most careful to have the notches come exactly together. gather sleeve. 8 Gather top of sleeve between exact notches. but for garments where a permanent and a good shoulder They add a perfect outline to all shoulders. Page 47 . Baste to cover seam and sew either by hand or on machine. 3 Sew up seams on machine and press. . in edges of other side. the bottom terations. not noticeable.— Follow instructions (Lesson 69). — Cut out. Grean has designed special shoulder forms for different weight of garments from the lightest weight silk and taffeta.. 7 Baste together cuff and sleeve and sew in securely on machine. 9 Attach where notches of waist designate. lay right side against right side of goods. are basted to canvas and you wA\ save a number of hours of alterations. 15c Per Pair Shoulder forms are made in different outlines. 1Take a straight strip of the material. page 54. Straight. 10 Sew in securely on machine.— SHIRT WAIST SLEEVE. They fit is desired. or face. The ordinary lap closing is made the same as the lap pocket. (Lesson 2— Baste up seams. as to what to use. and Construction Guide. Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. 4 Hem. and fitters must use their judgment. High. — — — — — Lesson 70. ends. at the notch where the fullness begins in the sleeve and turning the right of the sleeve to the right of the cuff tack to the notch in the cuff — For No. if you will begin to fit by first placing the shoulder form in suchposition as you would like to have your coat appear. Some are padded. 327-329 East 34th St. 2 Baste 3 4 — — —Turn down evenly and sew on machine. — — of the sleeve or cuff. inside the coat. pliable. to the heaviest automobile and fur garments. (Lesson 48). Mr. 76). and Sloping.

but instead of facing. put damp cloth over and hold down firmly until you have pressed out all the superfluous fullness. cuff. the bands are cut double width and turned back and hemmed over the seam which joins cuff and sleeve. —Cut two straight strips. CUFF. 327-329 E. The 1 lap closing as seen in sleeve No.— LAP CLOSING. cuff. which is so much in vogue now. 2— lined turn right side of lining to right side of goods and stitch sides and bottom of 3 — Turn right side out and stitch again at the very edge of the —Attach as step 6 (Lesson 69). is an article used always by that have filling ever tried it. • — For upper lap sew on in same manner. TURN BACK Make exactly the same as for shirt made of double length to turn back or instead of at the top.. and put on edge of pressing board.— of Lesson 69. except that the top of the flat coat sleeve. are completed before attaching to sleeve. but outside of seam. —The coat sleeve is much simpler as steps exactly according to instructions of Lesson 69. CUFFS— PLAIN BAND. If fill and your dealer cannot supply you. but a few suggestions mill make it plain just as 6 how 7 awkward for the to make them. plain The Band Cuffs are put on the same and CUFF— (Shirt They 1 Waist). COAT SLEEVE. The latter is much neater and gives a more tailored finish the top piece of the cuff is sewed into the seam. or you may — Attach sleeve to lining of the cuff and turn back right edge of cuff and If cuff. The cuffs belonging to the sleeves are sometimes a little beginner. turning the top of strip either with perfectly square corners or in a neat V shape. Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. 2— For 4 and the stitch. Baste inside of the sleeve. 34th St.— — Lesson 71. if the material is soft you can press out the material is hard or harsh. 4 5 stitch to than when cover seam. The coat sleeve is made For this purpose the sleeve roll of the Grean Dressmaking Specialties will be found very useful. designed for the purpose of correcting the general hollow parts between the Arm Hole and the Bust. and seven are omitted. If more of the fullness than COMBINATION This AR1VI PAD all fitters Combination Arm Pad. except your cuffs are either are attached at the bottom of the cuffs waist six Lesson 72. underlap put right side of strip to right side of sleeve 3 — Turn back and stitch by machine on both sides of strips. It is very simple in construction. 3.. requires a little soft foundation. Stitch your goods well over it. — Cut out exactly after pattern. New York is c Page 48 . write us and we will either your order or direct you to a reliable merchant.

The patch pocket. brow or cheek. as seen in Lessons 87 and 107. Then draw your thread from the top mark in a straight line to the bottom mark and back again on the opposite side of the goods. Pengelly's Sure Shot) FOR Colds. back stitch the pouch into the slit of the garment. blurred eyes. except that their outer edge is usually joined in the facing or with the seam of the ruffle. The most trifling exposure renews the attack. rendering the disease still more difficult to treat. ZOA-PHORA COLD REMEDY Its improves the sight and hearing- most remarkable storing the impaired of effect is the clearing of the head. it should be fastened as Measure one-eighth inch above and one-eighth below the slit and mark. Croup and Protection Against Pneumonia An old proverb says: "Never neglect a fresh cold if you would avoid sickness. and stitch on the lap. and results. The pocket should be of heavy mercerized goods made into a pouch the desired depth. For partial list see page 96 of this book. dullness of hearing and smell. letting the needle pass through the entire thickness After a row of stitching has of threads from the bottom mark to the top. viz.: Sneezing. The lap must be cut on an exact grain of the goods and should be lined with silk or some light material. been made at the bottom and both sides of the lap. is very simple to make. Since the tiilly now justly famous ZOA-PHORA LaGRIPPE REMEDY. The lap pocket as shown in the figure of the coat in Lesson 96. Zoa-Phora La Grippe Remedy first invasion of the disease known as LaGrippe in this country.Lesson 73. tightness at the root of the nose. Penhad been a careful student of its nature. is the only one very much in evidence these days. SoreThroat.—POCKETS. Hem tops and turn in bottom and both sides and stitch on garment. Page 49 . and at the same time increasing the severity of the usual symptoms. convinced the Doctor that LaGrippe was (from whatever inducing cause) a sudden and general congestion attacking more or less the whole system. the Price 50c per bottle The Zoa-Phora Cold Remedy and the Zoa-Phora LaGrippe Remedy are for sale at 50c per bottle at alllfirst-class drug stores. slit from tearing into the cloth. To keep the follows: Zoa-Phora Cold Remedy (Formerly Dr. which treatment. Dr. hut showing its greater From these deductions.— Persons suffering thus are martyrs to every change of weather. It does not operate on the douche principle merely drying up and washing out the secretions. sore throat or nostrils. together with the use of certain remedies in the treatment of the disease. back and limbs sometimes with chilly sensations and nausea— will almost invariably meet and control the disease. etc. if taken promptly on the first signs of the disease— known by aching of the head. Repeat this process until you have firmly secured the slit— then bring the thread through and work over and over. pain in the temples. A speedy and safe cure is invaluable. Pengelly was led to formulate force on the weaker parts. A NEGLECTED COLD. thus preventing a tedious and perhaps dangerous illness. cough. but restores the parts to healthy action. Such you have in Zoa-Phora Cold Cure. and_ revoice. throat. Sewing Apron pockets are made in the same way. Back stitch the pouch into the slit of the garment and stitch on the lap. Cough. Dr. symptoms. These investigations. headache." More suffering comes from neglected colds than from all other causes.

but prevents its spotting and wrinkling so much. Wool goods should nearly always be sponged and shrunken as should ginghams and linens.Shino Dust Absorbing Articles Reduces the Labor of Dusting and Polishing One-half. In pressing folds always see that the fold is perfectly straight. especially anything with a mesh. Lesson 74. just as a magnet attracts steel. Simplex Mop Handle. Cleveland. Shino articles. Shino Chemical Floor Polisher. lint and germs. f*. have a hot flat iron conveniently near. Ail 4" f* 522 ° Sweeney Ave. wring out and then press until dry.— SPONGING AND SHRINKING. Ohio CHAPTER VIII. with dust. to. while a poor presser can make the most carefully put together garment look badly. but twice is better.— PRESSING. r»l| Ine rioneerMrg. but your goods will Ginghams and stay fresh and in shape long enough to pay for your trouble. Lesson 75. An electric flatiron is a great advantage to the woman doing her own dressmaking. and in pressing sleeves one should shrink considerable of the fulness that is apt to occur on the inside seam of the arm at the elbow. Much of the beauty of a gown depends upon its pressing. linens should be dipped in water in which has been placed a handful of salt. least once. rinsing in warm water good as new. Wool goods should be laid right side down and a wet Repeat at ironing sheet placed over it and ironed until it is perfectly dry. always remembering it is almost impossible to put too much good press work on a garment. especially in making a wool garment. Very thin goods should not be sponged Sponging not only helps your or shrunken. Always have a good piece of cotton long enough to cover the entire seam. garment to hold its shape better. When filled makes them The The The The The The The Shino Chemical Dust Cloth. for a good presser can straighten out a multitude of little defects in sewing and stitching. Shino Chemical Dust Mop. If you are not good at pressing it would be best to baste back your seams in their exact place until you get more accustomed to pressing them in place. Page 50 . Shino Chemical Broom Cover. but in case one is not at hand one must always. or sent postpaid by the manufacturers. This is a slow process. as the result of a marvelous chemical process. Shino Chemical Mitten Duster. Shino Chemical Handle Duster. all Sold by good dealers. attract dust. Dampen and iron till the cloth is perfectly dry then dampen once again and repeat the pressing.

Main 2189 SEWING MACHINE SUPPLIES AND REPAIRS BRYSON CO. CUTTING. (See Department 6). and no Mistakes are impossible with this guide before you. cutting guide a child Review Patterns are error proof and with can lay out and cut a garment as well as an expert. One accompanies every Pictorial Review pattern.— CUTTING GUIDE. we show their patent cutting guide. No CUTTING GUIDE 4069 FOLD more than you OF 54 INCH MATERIAL WITHOUT Pictorial NAP' their need.. just as an expert would lay it out in order to cut it from the least possible material. Central 2259-L For prices on any Sewing Machine or Supplies PHONE or CALL on Expert Repairer will Call and Give Estimate Lesson 76. No chance of wasting an inch of material mistakes. By courtesy of the CUTTING GUIDE 4-4/0 SIDE 6ftCK C^ POLO OP 36 INCH MflTERIflL WITH NAP BflO puzzling for hours to find how to lay out the pattern properly. E. There is absolutely no chance of cutting one piece the wrong way of the goods. — Page 51 . 823 Superior N. It shows just how to lay out the pattern on the goods correctly and scientifically. 1 Before beginning see that you have every thing necessary to go ahead. No chance of cutting two backs or two fronts because a careless folder picked up two pieces instead of one. Pictorial Review Co.

to 2 P. and one chosen with due regard for the material to be made up and for the occasion of the wearing of the garment. M. Page 52 . 622 Prospect Avenue ^n i — i i =ir=i i==i r=i i= ir^=: it=H Cleveland's Finest and Most Elaborate Chinese-American Cafe Shoppers' Novelty FROM 11 Luncheon A. Do not make the mistake of buying a pattern a size too large or a size too small. your is thrown out when you start to make alterations. M. to 2 P. After Theatre Parties a Specialty Private Dining Rooms Reserved for Dinner Parties Special Attention Given Ladies without Escorts Our Kitchen is Open for Inspection to Patrons from 11:30 A.M. Main-2371-J C— 6417 r £ ar=H r=]G "N \ The Mandarin No.with a good paper pattern for your size and suitable to height and individuality.M. but get your own size otherwise the entire proportion of your garment 2 —Provide yourself style.

being most wrinkles either pattern or goods. flowered or have a design see that it all runs in the same direction. no properly laid on cut out with very sharp shears so the goods are not frayed or haggled and under no circumstances fail to cut out every notch indicated on the pattern. 9— When absolutely sure every piece in careful to have it perfectly flat and — errors. and ac- cording to the construction guide. 6 Follow exactly the construction guide for laying on your pattern which you have altered to fit your figure. Striped or plaid materials must be perIf the fectly matched so the strips run into the seams on the same angle. Ohio Selling Merchandise that bears the Stamp of Quality. then it fold. A RELIABLE STORE The Boston Dry Goods 8813-17 Wade Park Avenue 13592 Euclid Avenue 8601 Detroit Avenue 14712 Detroit Avenue Co. The nap should always rub down except velvet. 4 Iron out every piece of your pattern and identify each section and if there is any doubt in your mind compare it with the similar piece on the construction guide.-. 11 —Then proceed to baste together as is directed in Lesson 77. right angle of should rub up. and will save you many possible is — 8— Pin down the pattern. Cleveland . See that every piece is on precisely the — your material as designated on the construction guide. until you have made sure what it is and where it belongs. This is of vital importance to the success of your garment. 5 If the garment has a lining cut the lining out first. which furnished free with every Pictorial Review pattern..your goods are wool or gingham or such as need attention follow directions (see Lesson 74). for preparation. goods are 7 When the width of the goods will permit lay the pattern on the double fur or plush. UnlO LakeWOOd. and fit it perfectly 3 If — — — before cutting into the dress goods. baste it up and make all necessary alterations of the pattern (Lesson 77). and if your goods have a nap very strict attention must be given that the grain or nap lie in the same direction. at prices that are no more and often less than elsewhere Good Values Courtesy Page S3 Progressiveness . 10 Then with tailor's chalk or with a colored cotton thread run a line showing all the marks and perforations of the pattern.

etc. or through a reliable dealer. to be guided by the waist and not by the bust. 121. hours of time.. or the one accompanying your pattern. specially for the summer or for warm climates. Cen. and needs to be fitted only by adjusting the seams above the boned portions and on the shoulders.— CONSTRUCTION. boning. 2044 Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co." "VOTES FOR WOMEN are not so necessary as 44 Greanet »» LOTS FOR Many WOMEN are buying Invisible Home of them Sites in Waist Foundations Are used in making light weight lace or chiffon waists where a t ght-fitting lining would be out of place. #100 down and $10 month buys a lot 40x125 for $750. ONELLY 120. 122 If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealers. We will supply you direct. Grean System of Fitting. New York Lesson 77. is shaped seamless belt. The" made with a wide. But if you decide to make your own lining or foundation the following directions must be carefully followed. These are made in Black and White. according to waist measure. beauboned. get off at East 152nd St. Take Euclid Beach Car to Beach Grove on Lake where all installed Shore Boulevard. write us. Williamson Bldg. show you Always Page 54 . Main 5283 Ground Floor 327-329 East 34th Street. making of waists. constantly before you for it In the — CONSTRUCTION GUIDE 44JQ SLEEVE SECTIONS 'SIDE will BACK C plainly which pieces to join together and just where to join see that the notches correspond and that the seams are taken up on exactly the line shown and that each portion of your goods is in ar- them. It tifully BEACH GROVE improvements are being and homes erected.. and the upper part of coarse Net which forms just the right kind of a foundation for light waists. FITTING AND ALTERATION. work and worry can be avoided by procuring the Grean Fitted Waist Linings and Foundations as it saves all of the labor of cutting basting. Do not attempt to put your garment together without this construction guide. putting on the hooks and eyes. which protrude above the belting and are finished with hooks and This is the new eyes.

White Sewing Machine Co. for the effect lies in perfect lines and it is impossible to obtain these without good basting.«e .. but with the White you simply a very raise a latch. We shall be glad to demonstrate it at any time. for it takes time. put it together and fit it.Have rpT?T T TIVT/^'C 1 EEd lULLllMjiS ICECREAM? CONSTRUCTION GUIDE4069 French . cut it out. With a great many Rotary machines in order to remove the Shuttle one has to use a screw driver and take out three screws. and make See cut 4410. Page 55 Sizes 22 to 33 inclusive Waist Measure. Boned Girdle A SCREW is DRIVER.American cordance with the diagram of your construction guide.. For Unlined Waists and Dresses USE Grean Shaped Seamless. If the garment has a lining. you don't care to use it unnecessarily. all necessary alterations before cutting into the dress goods. Your Dealer BOTH PHONES 426 Prospect Ave. r 35c at eyes Don't forget it! The White Rotary means more to you in a sewing way than you can think. Form Made wide of Finished handy tool to have around. It's with another time saver which herringbone belting hooks and the busy operator will surely appreciate. but naturally. Black or White ^. The greatest of care should be taken in the basting up of the seams of your garment.

Monks Osteopathic Physician 302 Lennox Building Treatments by Appoin tmen t Res. Margaret B.Central Dr. Bell South 188-L Off. Bell Main 3938 .

Begin six inches below the hip line and gradually take up the seam. and its length adjusted from the bottom or six inches below the hips. between shoulders or across chest or at neck or armhole. Or if skirt must be enlarged at waist. The same general instructions of careful work and perfect fitting and correct alterations apply to the making of all garments. 1 Summer Camp Apply to the 1 Open July 1 to June Systematic Exercise and Recreation Young Women's Christian Association Prospect Avenue and 18th Cleveland. alterations must be made from the shoulder seams and arm hole. at the hip line of the front and side gores. extending each gore an inch at the top. well made gown.If garment wrinkles. Begin six inches below the waist line. until you have a perfect fit.. Ohio Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister to Sept. being careful to keep a perfect seam line. 1 Boating Bathing Out of Door Life Turkish. Skirts must be altered in the seams. and let out gradually the seams the deIncrease also the side sired width. however. for if too tight the skirt will wrinkle and draw. — — — and backs. Begin six inches below the waist line of remembering. and gradually slant to meet the side back seams. that it is better to take up fullness as possible. the necessary width. If the hips are too small. than to alter the back of the skirt any more Fpr flat — the back seams. If the hips are too large. Ohio Page 57 . Begin six inches below the waist line and increase seam gradually until the correct size is obtained about the waist. you will then be ready to cut into your dress goods. which you are following in making the garment in hand and you cannot fail to have a well fitting. 32nd Lake Grove Farm St. except the front and the front edges of the side gore seams. To alter for large abdomen. but do not alter any seams to remedy this trouble. and fill in the hollow of the back by sanitary pad. Electric Light and Shower Rest West Side Branch Franklin and W. Then follow the specific instructions of the lesson. —Take arm up a seam. two inches below the lower line of the Square or Sloping Shoulders. After you have properly cut and fit and altered the lining of the waist and measured and adjusted the pattern of your skirt. as alter. hole. carefully but before the outside material is cut into you must know that your pattern and lining are both altered exactly right. Begin at the same point six inches below the waist and decrease the size of the seam. and the same general instructions apply. Gymnasium Open Oct. Begin six inches below the hip line and decrease the width of the seam. Baths Massage Madison. Care must always be taken alter To for — — — not to take too large a seam across the hips. edges of the gores. To take up skirt at waist.To alter for very straight figures. much of the a hygenic and than absolutely necessary.

50c and S1. together with an appreciation of the appropriate either with and the beautiful. care or culture of that beauty which or less. which make the face look old and cross are unnecessary— remove them with the Crown and Bridgework a Specialty B. eyes or buttons ever missing and her shoes are always clean Her skirts always hang evenly and her belt never is out of place or shined. Ohio CLEVELAND. & P. Wrinkle Eradicators Simple. more our duty to ourself as well as to others to be all that is bright and healthy and beautiful. and above all her collar is always in perfect position and neatly fastened fancy pins or with invisible fasteners. OHIO Page 58 . THE WELL GROOMED WOMAN.00 boxes. Scientific beauty culture means bodily and scientific —that to is. FROWNERS are for the lines between the eyes. In fact the well groomed woman studies herself. & P. If your dealer cannot supply you we will send by mail. certain.— CHAPTER woman The well harmony and appropriateness of groomed becomingly fineries is XII. dressed —her gloves. dress. safe. leaves no marks. & P. handkerchiefs She always has her hair neatly and and neckwear and all her are immaculately clean and no rips. neatness. Seventh Floor. one who exhibits cleanliness. (Two Women) 1790 East 68th Street Cleveland. fairy-like figures and a painfully thin woman does not show good teste in wearing stripes and such combinations as are supposed to be worn only by women desiring to reduce the appearance of their size. and gowns herself to express an innate sense of refinement and good taste. contains no chemicals. or reds or pinks or any of the colors or materials suitable only for slight. We cannot be this if our livers are out of order and our complexion anything but what we would wish open pores. at birth. but with her If she is inclined to be stout she does not wear plaids individuality and style. including booklet on care of face. B. The skin can be made smooth. postpaid. tears or spots are ever visible and no hooks. Both are put up in 25c. These unsightly. It Mother Nature gave the wisest everyone. skin dry and is — Frank Dowd DENTIST LOOK OLD? Wrinkles are only skin deep. telling marks of time. Schofield Bldg. SCIENTIFIC BEAUTY CULTURE. Sold at drug and department stores. Wrinkle Eradicators. The well groomed woman's clothes are never loud or conspicuous and the colors always harmonize not only with the occasion for wearing. CO. on receipt of price. the wrinkles erased and the beauty greatly increased by the nightly application of these well known B.

owned and patented by Mrs. Adair exclusively. originated.00. These Imported Appliances. $1. to become deeper day by day.00. 75c. THIS PHOTO PORTRAYS THE GANESH CHIN STRAP ($5. pendulous — MRS. W. TIRED EYE TREATMENT restores tired.50. ADAIR'S GANESH TOILET PREPARATIONS AND FACIAL TREATMENTS obtainable for years only at her Salons in New York. Electrolysis is almost painless. lined. fills lows and removes wrinkles. FACIAL MASSAGE. are the antithesis of "make-up".00. strengthens the skin. 75c. LONDON 92 21 West 38th Street. a splendid face wash. as they reach the CAUSE of all blemishes and re-establish by natural means a healthy complexion. closes pores and alleviates skin flabbiness and puffiness under the eyes. can be obtained nowhere else in the world. restores lined. for tender. Bottle. Paris and Nice. holGANESH EASTERN MUSCLE OIL braces sagging muscles. Bottle. sparkling eyes and a youthful contour. which with maturer years will surely become a hard line between it and our original chin. WRITE FOR VALUABLE BOOK containing list of all GANESH Preparations and Treatments and much beauty information and advice.50. illness and time. on looking sideways into our hand glass.50. $2. GANESH EASTERN BALM SKIN FOOD $3. Sometime we may be rudely awakened by finding. ph one G reeley 1 3475 Bond New St. dry skins.00) which cures deep lines between brows. discolored eyes to proper smoothness and fulness. $2.50. with a line like a big wrinkle. $2.50) lost contour. and in consequence there are flabby. London. $5.00. GANESH DIABLE SKIN TONIC. or that the muscles and tissues of the cheeks have become relaxed.00. corners of eyes and over forehead. NEW YORK. — MAIL ORDERS FILLED for all preparations and appliances on receipt of cheque. $5. $3. PARIS Cambo Cambon MIPP" ll*\_I-. including the Strapping Muscle Treatment.00.50. Rue Chauvain REGISTERED TRADE MARK Page 59 . which removes double chin and and the restores GANESH FOREHEAD STRAP ($4.00. $6. $1. withered skins to velvety SUPERFLUOUS HAIR TREATMENT HYGIENIC smoothness. by antiseptic $2.unhealthy a state of neglect that makes the lines wrought by worries. $5. either that a gross ''double-chin" is beginning to form. Faithfully used they accomplish the most wonderful results everything that is claimed for them.

Y. There have been many treatments for the difficulties and for the cure of double chins. 323 Euclid Ave. MAUD 716 Permanent Bldg. 6U0 Madison Ave. sole • Ellsworth. Stone Prop.KJ y- ' _• Creme de Luxe a delightful preparation to use in Does not wear place of powder. to which so many women owe their rejuvenated appearance. Personal instructions by D.. Creme de Luxe 505 Hours S a. New York. Adair's methods of reducing superfluous flesh.m. Toledo. Buffalo.. N. Makes skin soft and velvety. raises and gives back the youthful shape and appearance to the face. taught. effective treatment called the Ganesh Strapping Muscle Treatment. exposed to heat and cold. 0. Stone's Shoe Store Send 12 cents sale all for sample. 0. teachers and the DeLong's Cucumber and Almond Massage Cream Used and recommended by Cleveland's best people. it restores tone to the flabby muscles. and Mine. absorption of some of this fat takes place. and the skin falls into lines and furrows. from illness. originators. double chin and restoring a youthful contour. which are so clearly and thoroughly explained in the interesting and instructive book. or any other cause.OH ^ > 1VIY FOOT . Huron Bldg. altogether altering the shape of the face and adding years to our age. rounded contour is maintained in all its attractiveness by the support afforded by the fat beneath it to the skin that lies smoothly over it like unwrinkled satin. Adair at 21 West 38th them — St. In youth the soft. Ellsworth All Facial of College branches beauty science V. Our everyare graduates where. it needs skillful. Cleveland. 1V1<i to 6 p. is All foot troublespermanently relieved by scientific corrections under supervision of a surgeon. hanging on either side of the chin. and filling out hollows. adverse climates. FULTON Manicuring and Chiropody Room 604 Standard Bldg. Call owners of Ellsworth System. But when. removing lines. off. be one of them and Let Me Give You a Sample lar ELLSWORTH COLLEGE 514 Permanent Bldg. yellow or blood-shot eyes are marvelously efficacious. this even support of the muscles and skin is withdrawn.. MRS. in 2462 -J bags. of treating tired. For stores. Mrs. 0. Beckman Bldg. hollows are formed in cheeks and temples. Your skin is not a dead thing to be left alone it is a sensative part of you. R." which you may have for the asking by mail or in person at the parlors of Mrs. Dr. scientific and constant care. for into place. but nothing has ever met with anything like the instant and entire success of the wonderful. Cleveland Recommended by N. "How to Retain and Restore Youthful Beauty of Face and Form. DeLONG SKALLA Dermatologist and Chiropodist Page 60 . No woman need lose the shape of her features nor the grace of her figure if she practices the Ganesh Exercises and Treatment.m. of eliminating deep frown lines. and loses its beauty of coloring.

and least 10 per cent of your entire appropriation for incidental be reserved expend- BAIRD BROS. 28—Jewelry. — Night Gowns. Ties. Added too to these are the numberless trifles to tains a varnish dries instantly. but in all of which restores the original brilliancy and lustre to furniture. — Corset Covers. 20— Housekeeping Gowns. —Sanitary Skirt Protector. hardwood finish and hard- Polishes and wood floors. 13 — Traveling or Street Gowns. 18— Kimona. —Hosiery. Large size bottle 25c at your dealers' money should itures supply your needs. Below we give a list which will help you in planning and serve to remind you of the essentials of every woman's complete wardrobe. 12— Shoes. 23 — Hair Dress. pianos. 8 — Brassieres. Page 61 . 15 — Dinner Gowns. accessories. 9 — Corsets. 25 — Collars. 17 — Negligee Gowns. when the subject of renewing their wardrobe presents itself. — Union Suits. Often one does not know when to begin. 16— House Gowns. — Evening Gowns. Cleveland. 30— Scarf. 21 — Aprons. 6— Sanitary Belt. & CO. 1 2 3 "Never Mind. 24— Handkerchiefs. Conno acid or injurious ingredients. 7 — Drawers. Standard Polish for 35 years. — numerous mention. must be considered case an incidental cost in you to are planning all on just so much at A few drops on your dustcloth does the work. — Chemises. 0. 27 — Coats. 22— Millinery. especially if one is preparing their clothes in advance for the season or perhaps arranging for a trip or a visit or for some occasion where a rather complete outfit is needed. Belts. 10— Petticoats. —Furs. Mamma" 4 5 11 14 19— Bath Robe.THE WARDROBE. 26 Monarch Polish Not will fix it 29—Veils.

you are unable to procure it from your dealer. Wright & Sons Co. — We A Standard Pattern with our improved "Never-Slip Clasp" ( Patent Applied For ) Requires No Safety Pin Easily Adjusted in sizes Absolutely Secure Made 22 ins. your article in — not fit perfectly. your entire wardrobe that should be given more There is no the grace of your careful attention than your corsets. that the choice and judgement of the most experienced corsetiere should be consulted. as it does not constrict the waist and is designed and cut on the idea of supporting the abdomen. F Manufacturers For Comfort 40 Lispenard St. Webbing at Front and Back Wm. like many other corsets do. latest styles. are but few more ruinous habits than the use of safety pins and is There improvised methods character. neither will the most expensive. but without the torture. We at all times recommend the Berthe May "Hygie" corset as we find its hygienic and physical advantages cannot be disputed. the same as with any ordinary corset. Dept. in fact the foundation of your entire appearance to say nothing of your health and comfort lies in the well fitting corset. for the fit of your gown carriage. many makeshifts on they are the market. and while supporting the bust. Sizes of Belts are actual waist measure. & N. POSTPAID. So much depends upon this one point. B. but a well made can not only be worn with comfort but can be easily adjusted and will prove secure. to 48 ins. there are satisfactory. gown will (C) SANITARY BELTS. At All Dealers "W. send us his name and 25c for sample belt. New York City Page 62 . instead of pressing it down. lungs." High Grade Elastic Ladies' Improved Sanitary Side. If sizes 22 inches to 48 inches inclusive. heart In other words it will allow one to dress according to the and stomach. N. that There is one small as article no woman should be they without but they either belt Sanitary Belt.&N. and that is a are most unwill unless properly constructed not stay clasped or will not hold the napkins in place. inclusive. Order large enough to drop well down over hips. of fastening and your outfit not complete without a belt of this have carefully examined the W. Ladies Improved Sanitary Belt and we have found no better on the market. E.. carefully made garment look its best. it allows entire freedom and full expansion to the chest. for unless your corset fits your individual figure.(A) CORSETS.

Page 63 . and theatrical The excellent material used guarantees its wearing is made in medium large size selling at Price 50c. nize trademark before A1VIA CO. If you get a good one you can wash unless a sure protection is afforded. but have never before been able to secure in an ideal form. 22nd. women. nurss people it is almost indispensable. $1. Call and let us demonstrate this article to you. For misses and business ladies in mode summer of ladies' attire or evening dress. 117 purchasing. nmde of a high grade white rubber muslin. THE AMA Sanitary Skirt Protector Patented Sept. have doubtless often realized. Always recogour United States.(C) SKIRT PROTECTORS. odorless. and press it and always have it in perfect condition. as flexible as fine linen.00 each qualities. fit and durability. CLARENCE BUILDING CLEVELAND. is every woman's wardrobe. O.00 and $2. 1908 This garment and This article is fully protected Sanitary Skirt protector will be mailed to any address in the receipt of price the Upon Ama by patent. less Beware of worthimitations. We recommend the skirt protector as one that will give entire satisfaction. for one is never safe at certain times to wear their gowns and dainty underwear. It is absolutely waterproof. The Ama Sanitary Skirt Protector is an article especially desirable for the present dress. The Ama Sanitary Skirt Protector has so many c salient featur. made with lace net yoke affording perfect ventilation and can be readily laundered.s that it cannot be ex elled for com ort. sanitary skirt protector a necessity to A AMA PSmmfW^ An article every is *^&™ woman will of welcome market THERE now on the the needa ready-to-wear which you wardrobe acce:sory. tourists.

when wearing a waist that is separate from the skirt. Price 15 Cents at Department Stores AGENTS WANTED DAVID BASCH.ARBORj TEA SHOP Earner flat ^oppe where 6541 Euclid Avenue Exclusive Models in Dress and Tailored Hats. corset covers and drawers should be of dainty muslin or fine linen. off into the their eye as to color (E) SHIRT WAIST SUPPORTERS. Dept." take double hold without undue pressure. skirt supporter on the market than is shown below. Every careful dresser. 17th St. sent postpaid. but for church and theatre wear one A may branch more elaborate and trimmed effects and can satisfy and decoration of ribbons.. Simple. Little rubber The "LOOP-HOLD" Shirtwaist BELT corrects a common fault in dress. great improvement over old style belts. at back. S. the street or traveling should be selected of one of the soft plain shapes with simple trimming. feathers and flowers. held in by patented " loop. Even though the edging and insertion be of fine lace or embroidery it will greatly add to the beauty of the garment to have at least a small floral design of hand work. but great care should be used that the selection be one that exhibits taste. practical. hat for business. Self-acting buckle stays put. but the majority of women Waist Cannot Be Displaced pyramid "Units" grip and keep waist from riding up. 1/ not at dealers. Price 15 Cents. both French and Domestic. Metal parts cannot rust. No sharp points to hurt fingers.. style and setting of one's face and features. chemise. on receipt of price. gown as the waist There is nothing that ruins the entire appearance of a out of place above the belt line or perhaps showing a dividing line between the skirt band and the waist line. graceiul. and if possible hand embroidered in any of the beautiful designs which can so easily be procured and done. Many make these garments entirely by hand. with so much pleasure at one's leisure time if handy with the needle. elastic sides. CORNER SUPERIOR AND 105TH THE WARNER HAT SHOPPE considers it possible for every woman to have an Individual Style A Gift all Shop and Tea Room can be found Novelties in Art and Needle Work (D) MILLINERY. Pat'ee &Mfr. should wear a waist supporter in order that a good about the waist can always be relied upon. The night gown. 15 E. effect There is no better (F) LINGERIE. New York Page 64 . refinement and a respect for the shape.

be a cloth a rain-proof fabric of "Cravenette" proof is a process which The process permeates every fibre renders a cloth or garment water-proof. rendering the cloth permanently rain-proof, and rain will then of the yarns, You can have your coat, suit, wrap, or neither wet nor spot the garment. motoring garments made from the Priestley Cravenette Cloths, and you will If you are obliged to be out in all kinds of find your needs perfectly met. weather, rain or shine, you should by all means have a "Cravenette" rain-coat. We specify "Cravenette," because a genuine Cravenette-proof coat contains no rubber, is porous to air, yet rain-proof and has not the disagreeable odor common to most raincoats, and too, there is not the stiffness of the material, which renders many of the rain coats so undesirable and unattractive. The Cravenette-proof process leaves the cloth just as supple as before and every The main point to bear in fibre of the yarns is made thoroughly rain-proof. mind is to get a rain-coat that is strictly hygienic, keeping the dampness out without preventing ventilation. However, if you are only out in an occasional sprinkle or shower, a rain-coat is unnecessary, but you should have a street

(G) RAINCOATS AND people imagine Cravenette some sort but such is not the case.



or business or traveling suit



any of the Priestley cloths of serviceable

and wearable mohair suitings, serge, chevoit, whipcord, etta, which you can get "Cravenette" proof.




to Tell

This circular

registered trademark

Silk y^^y^pti^^fiyci^ Labe


stamped on the inside and a sewed at the collar or elsewhere.

None Genuine Without Them
The )££L~,.

applied to many kinds of cloth suitable for outer garchildren's men's, women's and ments in light, medium and heavy weights for seasons of the year, and are for wear in rain or shine.

" Rain Will Neither

Wet Nor Spot Them."

They con t ain no Rubber, have no

disagreeable odor; will not overheat or cause perspiration.

For sale by leading dealers in Men's, Women's and Children's Clothing.

t^Q^/ft2^t§#., Lt4
Bradford, England

Hoboken, New Jersey

postal to the

Bradford, England

New York

office of

B. Priestley


Co., 100 Fifth Avenue, will bring interesting booklet.



is all

right in


place, but



annoyance, and more than that, when it gets on goods that you are anxious to keep clean. The oil cup on the White Rotary prevents all trouble of the kind. It's a trifle, but

by attention to the little things that make the White Rotary the very best machine you can buy. Our terms will surprise you by their
it is


White Sewing Machine Go.
426 Prospect Ave.


Lesson 78.— CORSET







nainsook, muslin, sheer lawn, linen, or any thin fine material.
tucks (Lesson 54). Join seams with French seam (Lesson 47).


Hem Hem


peplem and


Gather at waist line son 64). Finish neck and armholes with embroidery scallops (Lesson 22), or face on right side with very fine embroidery. See Lesson 53.) Embroider any desired design (Lessons 19-25 inclusive). Make eyelets and run in ribbon to hold in fullness (Lesson 25). Close with small buttons and buttonholes (Lessons 29-30).

(Lesson 65). and make band of goods or of beading for belt (Les-



Cut out (Lesson


Join with either plain or French seams.

(See Lessons 41 and 47.)

Face both sides of opening (Lesson Face around top for belt (Lesson
Put on




Make buttonholes (Lesson 27). Sew on buttons (Lesson 30).

Page 66

have not the time to put so much personal labor on their wardrobe, but the character of a woman is more easily discerned by the daintiness, prettiness and completeness of her lingerie, than by the beauty or elaborateness of her best gowns.
In France, a bride has never less than 12 pieces of each article of underwear beautifully done by hand work and exhibited with great pride to all her

buying and making these garments that your lingerie with care will last for many years to come, and you can afford to put more time and expense on them than on your outside garments that change style, color and design to suit every whim and caprice of fashion.



Lesson 80.— CHEMISE. Procure a good chemise pattern and make exactly as instructed in (Lesson 79), on the making of night gowns.
Lesson 81.— NIGHT GOWN. Cut out (Lesson 76). Join with dainty French seam (Lesson Embroider neck and edge of sleeves (Lesson 22), or fact on the right side with any desired trimming of embroidery or lace fine (Lesson 53). Embroider desired design. (See Lessons 19 to 25 inclusive).


Make eyelets (Lesson 25) neck, and draw about through ribbon to adjust




Lesson 82.— COMBINATION UNDERGARMENTS. Cut out (Lesson 76). Fit carefully (Lesson 77). Join all seams with French seams (Lesson 47). Set in yoke (Lesson 65). Put on beading and edging (Lesson 57). Sew on ruffle (Lesson 56). If for open drawers face both sides of opening (Lesson 53). Close with small buttons and buttonholes (Lesson


Page 67

Stitch the facing down securely.— SKIRTS AND UNDERWEAR WITHOUT PLACKET. DRESSING SACQUES AND KIMONAS.— PETTICOATS. and means will permit. fleece lined goods. challie. Sew on buttons (Lesson 30). but have them made the proper length to wear with your For your sireet.Lesson 83. and where the fullness commences make a slit on each side and insert a tape. Hem (Lesson 48). Page 68 . heatherbloom or even a good quality of sateen is preferable. soft flannels or in fact almost any pretty Have your negligee gowns as attractive as your skill fabric may be used. for it is the dainty feminine expression of lingerie and negligee garments that expresses the refined womanly tastes and will prove of pleasure to you so long as they last. Face upper edge of the garment (see Lesson 53). Make buttonholes (Lesson 29). QBE Lesson 84. drawing it through the slit on the opposite side. dimities. The material can be of large figured silk. Parrish Funeral Director Bell Phone. business and traveling gowns. lawns. East 135 1738 East 55th Street Cut out (Lesson 76). GUI Chapel in Connection Jay P. Face top (Lesson 53). Join seams (Lesson 41). The slit should be carefully worked with the button hole stitch (Lesson 24). silk. Join ruffle (Lesson 56). Have plenty of white skirts plain or elaborate to match your other lingerie of your outfit. house and evening gowns.


not go to the



Kimonas and Art Laces"
Call At
before buying ?

and Save

150 The Arcade
See Our Beautiful Designs and Get Our Low Prices

Lesson 85.— DRESSING
Cut out (Lesson


Lay Sew

pleat in back.



bottom (Lesson

Gather on


Face collar (Lesson

elbow and shirr around

waist (Lesson 55), and finish with dainty
of bright ribbon at the waist.



Lesson 86.— KIM ON A.

Cut out (Lesson




seams on machine.


bottom of garment (Lesson

Make yoke and attach (Lesson 65). Make sleeves and put in (Lesson



Face edges and sleeves (Lesson



facing should be of satin or



ing shade of the same or a lighter material.

-page 4-

overlook the


scientific drugless treatment


Page 69

Lesson 87.—APRONS.

Aprons are the simplest of all garments to make, No. 3857 is especially easy to make. Cut out goods (Lesson 76). Face all edges (Lesson 53). Make pocket (Lesson 73)." Make one buttonhole and sew on button (Lessons 29-30).

No. 3180 requires a little more time and effort. Cut out (Lesson 76). If embroidery for ruffle, bib and pockets is not used hem ruffle (Lesson 48). Face bib and pockets (Lesson

Put on ruffle (Lesson 56). Put on pockets (Lesson 73). Gather and join bib to skirt of

Put on band (Lesson 64).


Is This the

Condition of

Your Nerves?

Is that the condition of your nerves? If so, your system is just like the violin shown above; utterly unable to perform the work for which it was intended. Until there is an improvement in these conditions, there is no chance for harmonious action between the various organs of the body. The office of the nervous system is to control and direct the vital forces. If the nerves are not strong, healthy and in proper tone they cannot do this work any more than can the violin give forth sweet and melodious music when "all unstrung."

You Do Not Need



a Nerve STIMULANT, But a NERVE Food. a Nerve Food and Strength Builder.

At the same prepared especially to build up and strengthen the nervous system. time it purifies the blood and regulates the circulation, so that the nerve centers may distribute the vital forces to the organs in need. If you'are only slightly nervous, you ought to take ZOA-PHORA at once and thus thwart the onward march of the disease. If your nerves are already in such a shattered condition that they are threatened with nervous prostration, ZOA-PHORA will give you relief and strengthen your nervous system.

Read Page

95 for the Special



Page 70

Lesson 88.— LINGERIE WAIST. Choose your pattern and
follow the instructions of






making by

selecting the

desired design and effect and mak-

ing according to
Sleeves, Lesson 69 or 70.
Collars, Lessons 66, 67 and 68. Yoke, Lesson 65. Trimmings and Finish, Lessons 54, 57, 58 and 62. If a Lining is desired make according to Lessons 76 and 77.


Lesson 89.— HOUSE KEEPING GOWNS. Your house keeping gowns should be of percale or gingham or some wash goods so that at all times you can be immaculately clean. Have them made plain and simple so they can be easily gotten into and also have your aprons large, and of a material that washes neatly. Use instructions (Lesson 76), taking steps according to numbers; X-l, X-5, X-7, X-8, X-9, X-15. Then put on facing about sleeves, neck and down front and belt (Lesson 53). Now hem skirt (Lesson 48). Sew on buttons and make buttonholes (Lessons


Easy to Pay the Rosenblum Way"

For Man,
or Child



pays the bill

We Make Good Unsatisfactory Purchases We Never Misrepresent

M. Rosenblum

Credit Clothing Co.

2014 Ontario St. Cor.^hamplain
Mr. Rosenblum Himself



We do not have any collectors. and stitch on both sides of pleat. CLEVELAND CREDIT CLOTHING Over Atlantic CO. 2 Join with plain seams (Lesson 41). 3 Fit and make any necessary alterations (Lesson 77). — — Make buttonholes and sew on buttons (Lesson 29-30). do not handle any premiums nor give trading stamps (the customer. 9 Lesson it 91.00 a Week Payments Complete furnishers — Hats.—A shirt waist is something it seems no one has too many of they are so useful and so necessary for so many occasions and can be constructed of such a variety of fabrics and in such a wide range of styles. Dresses. Jewelry.There Must Be a Reason Why our business new customers month. front and back. —We will give directions for making gown 4533 as contains nearly every element and requires the explanation of nearly all points of dressmaking. growing by leaps and bounds. pays for both at all stores where they give them). Skhts. Coats. Hundreds of are added to our already large patronage every is There We We is a Reason — High Rent District. 6—Make sleeves and attach (Lesson 70). Upstairs Lesson 90. The quality of our merchandise is the best and our guarantee of absolute satisare not in the faction is given with every sale. Suits. By following these instructions carefully and faithfully. 4 Form box pleat in right front. of course. — GOWNS. 8 Make collar (Lesson 66). and leave collar loose.— SHIRT WAIST. & Pacific Tea Company's Store 2165 Ontario Street. and attach or put on neck band (Lesson 64). Waists. Shoes. you cannot fail to develop your Page 72 . turning to the specific lesson as indicated. Our operating expenses are low. — Gather at waist 5 7 line in and attach a belt or stitch bias band to hold gathers secure. 1 Cut (Lesson 76). All Goods Sold on $1. etc. — — — — — — Hem the underside of the front closing.

Ptawi 3fttBtrufitum .

You had better subscribe now and find out about our magazine and our patterns. REVIEW The Pictorial Chicago Paris Review Company St. Charming Lingerie Frocks Smart Street Toilettes Afternoon Dresses in Foulards and Taffetas New and Fascinating Evening Gowns An Alluring Assortment of Lace Blouses in the New Casaque and Peplum Styles The PICTORIAL REVIEW is not wholly a fashion magazine although it carries more and better styles than any fashion magazine published.. and in many other subjects which are of vital importance to her daily living. are written by experts and their information is practical and daily useful. in the politics which make taxes high and her rent accordingly higher. If you wish to please your husband's palate just give him some of the good. In short. tasty dishes described in PICTORIAL REVIEW'S COOKING DEPARTMENT." It covers every range of woman's activity completely. 222-224-226 W. New York London Headquarters: Louis Berlin San Francisco Vienna St. The May Co. and in harmony with the an evening gown the upper portion of both lining and material of the waist can be cut away. 39th NEW YORK Page 74 . For To be Dressed Styles in the Latest Fashion Select Your from the Season's Number The PICTORIAL REVIEW FASHION BOOK For sale by The May Costs only 5c When Purchased with a 15c pattern For sale by Co. special articles in PICTORIAL are on subjects of interest to women. find that she considers "home" to be the city. making as low or as high cut gown as desired. home decoration. departments on cooking. They make the so-called "fiction-magazine" unnecessary. state and nation in which she lives. She is very properly interested in the schools which her children shall attend. The up-to-date American housewife is a thinking woman. etc. With these departments before you a magazine devoted wholly to housekeeping is a needless extravagance. plain. materia! Any ornamentation suitable to the occasion to be worn may be used. in life insurance which cares for her REVIEW We We when the bread-winner is suddenly taken away. marketing. It is Its suggestions. PICTORIAL REVIEW is "The Magazine for Women. housekeeping.16 17 — Face bottom of skirt (Lesson —Sew on hooks and eyes (Lesson 53). She is looking for more information constantly and PICTORIAL furnishes that knowledge.. a necessity in every home. believe that the real American woman does not consider "home" to be just the house in which she lives. 59). its ideas will save much more than the cost of the magazine for a year. The fiction stories in PICTORIAL RE- VIEW The are equal to the very best you can get anywhere. The household departments in PICTORIAL REVIEW.

Lesson 93. and the panel is used instead of the — GOWN — all-over flounce. 'Make exactly according to Lesson 91. . except the breteile is crossed in the front instead of the back. when the same amount of money expended in two or three simple evening frocks would have constantly served to the pleasure and needs. Every wardrobe should hold as many evening gowns as the individual will have need of. elegance or elaborateness. Main . but for younger women prettiness and daintiness and attractiveness should be the aim rather than richness. Phones 4598 Central 1379-W . Select carefully your materials with a view of perfect keeping with social demands and associates. or as magnificent as her station in life demands.Lesson 92. for a season 30. yet sometimes the other extreme is met. as often too elegant evening gowns lie your unused and unenjoyed. and a number of cheap inappropriate useless garments purchased when one good garment of a more suitable nature would have been a better investment. and they should be as simple. For making see Lesson 91.—EVENING AND DINNER GOWNS.

Boarding Home Transient Accommodations Employment Bureau Travelers' Aid .

but the difference Some tailors sew cloth and canvas tolies chiefly in preparing the fronts. and at the top. The foundation for the front of your coat or jacket is very important. They are made of the best material appropriate for this purpose and are thoroughly sponged and shrunk. but a tailored made coat front. you will notice that it is It is not only a foundation over a complete coat front. which can be purchased for much less than one can Accept no imitations or substitutes. They in are a made variety upsuit to-date styles to different coats. These tailor-made coat front foundations are made in different weights and lengths. They are all very soft and pliable. Tailor-Made Coat Fronts Foundations are distinguished by their beautiful shaping and tailoring and every season the shapes change according to the prevailing To those who have found difficulty in making coat fronts for themfashions..Lesson 96.— CLOAKS AND SUIT JACKETS. from the lightest silks to the heaviest automobile garments. made of white French felt and edges of the best herringbone hair-cloth used for center stiffening. A good sized arm-pad surrounding. You requirements. but well tailored and firm enough to support and retain shape permanently. from the short Eton coat to a 32 inch length coat so much worn now. them in medium weight variety to suit tailor suit. a wide button hole stay runs the whole length of the coat. to will make find a Those who are unable good tailor made front Grean's Tailor Made Coat for Front Foundations to be almost a necessity. for a tailormade coat or jacket. but you can detect cheap worthless coat front foundations by their stiffness. "Tailor. themself. in the shoulder. are protected with a white linen stay. New York Page 77 . The present styles demand soft coat fronts. but it is also part of a pattern by which one can be safely guided..00 GREAN SHOULDER FORM & PAD CO. gether and some tailors use fronts of canvas prepared separately to fit the outside.Made' ' Coat Front Foundation By examining the drawing alongside which shows the inside view of the Grean Tailor-Made Coat Front Foundation. in and renders it unfit to be used your garment. must have more in it than an ordinary piece of canvas without preliminary preparations of careful sponging and shrinking. 34th St. 50c to $1. you will find a Grean patented Shoulder form. which the cloth is placed. There are several methods of making jackets and coats. 327-329 E. lightweight silk or velvet Grean suits and fur garments. all heavy winter selves. will find coat. which is usually nothing but glue. it will be a good lesson and example to study Grean ready made and tailor- made make coat front foundation. If your dealer cannot supply you write us immediately.

strict attention to the By paying Page 78 . 3).. press and sew turning in the lining to 13 — Make collar and attach (Lesson 67). 5 Short Coat-Fronts Short Coat Front. in. and press (Lesson 75). (Lesson 73). GREAN SHOULDER FORM & PAD 6 CO.no more particular work in dressmaking than the proper tailoring of a jacket or coat and you should never attempt to make one of these garments in a hurry. NEW YORK — Baste ready in these bust forms of hair cloth or soft canvas. above directions you will be able to work out a well fitting. and press seams open. 35 to 50c 50c lost its original shape. beautifully shaped and used in either short coats or long coats where only bust reinforcing is necessary and If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealer's. 2 5). We will supply you direct or through a reliable used in garments where a coat front of canvas has been already used but has is extensively altering dealer and send you a catalogue of other dressmaking helps. 9 When an exact fit has been obtained detach from lining. —Make buttons and buttonholes (Lessons 29 and 30). 7 Join seams of lining. 14 — Make sleeves (Lesson 72). made of Hair-Cloth. 16—The trimmings can then be sewed on. There is 4 — Lay on goods (Lesson 76— to — Cut out lining (Lesson 76— 3 — Baste up lining seams (Lesson — Fit and make necessary alterations (Lesson —'Cut outside material (Lesson 76—6-11). write us. IS — Again press the entire garment. out and attach with very small slant stitches (Lesson 12 cover the seam. You can purchase made at any of our advertisers carrying Grean dressmaking supplies. sew up seams in desired manner (Lesson 41). — 8 Baste goods over lining and try on and fit perfectly (Lesson 77). in any style or manner desired. for much of the beauty of the coat or cloak depends upon this part. 1 1 5). 327-329 East 34th St. nicely finished garment and the saving of doing this work yourself will allow you to put extra money into a better grade of material than otherwise you could choose or you can practically buy the goods for another suit. all 77). No work or stitches should be left visible on the lining. 10 11 — — — Make and put pocket — Put in lining right side in 5).

They allay Inflammation and heal the irri71. CHAPTER XIII. safe. MATERNITY OUTFIT. Read on the last page of this book your druggist' special offer to you of a free ten days' treatment of these Cones. L able and effective. They contain Nerve Tonics ANTISEPTIC which are absorbed into the Blood and VITALIZING COHES Give Vitality to the Whole System. The herself outfit an expectant mother prepares for entirely depends upon what her duties all require of her during this period. ZOA-PHORA CO. ^6. as not only the appearance.. must be given the matter of corsets and the lining of the gowns. Page 79 . P^t^£L. but in in- stances the clothing must be loose and comfortable and both the dress and underwear should be Special attento supported tion from the shoulders. Ten days' treatment will convince you that no matter how serious your condition a positive relief Sample free upon request. Cones are a female suppository. MICHIGAN. Proprietors. reliPRICE. The Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones have in the past years permanently relieved thousands upon thousands of women and the price of a month's treatment for 50 cents makes them within the reach of all. a tated parts. but the comfort of the individual to a large extent depends upon these two things. has been found. The Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing KALAMAZOO.ZOA-PHORA Antiseptic Vitalizing CONES Are for local treatment and are antiseptic in their action on Diseased Tis- sue and Unhealthy Conditions. 50 CENTS. Beware of dangerous imitations that contain mineral and poisons and which have'no established fifty reputation.

BERTHE MAY'S Maternity Corset The only corset of this kind made for its own purpose. to preserve a normal appearance. Orders by mail filled with absolute satisfaction because of my perfect yet simple measurement system. as it can be worn at any time. as well as during the maternity period. Every woman should have this corset in her wardrobe. Physicians use it in their own families aud prescribe it to their patients. A maternity corset must combine as an abdominal support and a corset in fact it must be a protection to the abdominal walls against too great relaxation and yet must serve to give grace to the figure and to make it possible for her to go about and be active during the entire period. in a normal condition. thus affording the comfort and safety so necessary in a weakened condition of the abdomen. to deport herself with the greatest comfort.. but she should never wear the ordinary style and cut. expectant mother should go without a corset. sent under plain envelope. The Lucine corset can be made gradually larger when wanted.00 Write for free booklet No. The most celebrated maternity corset that has come to our notice is the Berthe May "Lucine" corset. BERTHE MAY. Prices from $5. 46th St. enables women to dress as usual. and allows the mother to dress as usual.00 to $18. Mfr. on account of the healthy support which it gives both the abdomen and to the back. the same as an ordinary corset. abdominal support at all times. as her own health and that of her child would be materially injured by such a course. together with photographic reproductions and full information. 15 Which will b. 10 E. It is manufactured to be an absolute safeguard against all accidents for the mother as well as for the child.. and to attend to her customary vocation during the whole term of her pregnancy. through a system of inside plaits of the material. New York (98)— MATERNITY CORSETS. and it can be reduced to a normal size and worn as long as desired after the child is born. and upon examination and investigation we find that the "Lucine" corset is so constructed that it can be worn as early as wanted. to be used whenever needed. to preserve a normal appearance and to attend to their every -day vocations. and yet with its own particular advantages. No — Page 80 . thanks to its exclusive and It procures an absolute simple system of gradual enlargement. which can be opened successively when more room is needed.

list of of time and 50 cents for a full month's treatment well-known meritorious effective Remedy. Ohio full line of druggists who handle the Zoa-Phora Remedies Page 81 . and a very pliable. druggist today ana procure a month's treatment before your No matter disease becomes more deep seated and chronic. The instructions found in Lesson 91. for making. REMEDY— known See page 96 for ZOA-PHORA REMEDIES COMPANY.Lesson 99. easy stretching elastic band is used for the belt. Instead of making starting in the usual way the lining has dart seams from the shoulder and the center of the neck. Lesson 100. but it is seamed and faced and finished the same as given in the regular lesson on It should have a good sized pleat at each seam.— MATERNITY GOWN. tion at the top for lengthening front and sides. Accept no substitute. 3916. Proprietors. See instructions (Lesson 76). The opening down is the front shoulder is hemmed back. is arms where there but little Allowance must be made that enough goods left at the top of the skirt to extend the front and sides will as the figure demands in order that the skirt hang evenly all way around. and the dart seams either side from the shoulder faced back (Lesson S3). Sample sent FREE upon request. and an extenskirt making. and extending to the bottom of the waist lining. how serious your case you will find the ZOA-PHORA PILE the one safe. Cleveland's best Toledo. will forever convince you that to suffer with this disease is positively unGo to your Pull directions in each package.) QA~rt X REMEDY CO. A IT /*phOHA (Trade Mark. 50 CENTS. - Zoa-Phora Ten minutes of this Pile Remedy PILE ZOA-PHORA KALAMAZOO. falls is eyelets (Lesson 25) on both sides of all three openings. MICHIGAN. Make lacing. except the lining is finished altogether differently. PRICE. make this gown perfectly. See cut of lining at top of Fig.— MATERNITY SKIRT. maternity skirt is cut after a special maternity skirt pattern. necessary.. reliable and satisfactory treatment. and lace down with linen or elastic The band from which rather loosely fitted is the front of the skirt from exactly under the necessity to enlarge.

15 —Collars and ties. 19 — Sweater. 9 — Church dress. 18— Corset waists. All of your garments should be simple and Page 82 . narcotics or other dangerous or harmful drugs. 12— Hair ornaments. 21 — Furs. To the girl after her who is away from home wardrobe we have made out a most useful in list or the one without a mother to look of necessary articles and you will find the list planning your wardrobe. THE SCHOOL GIRL'S WARDROBE.CHAPTER IV. opiates. nervous. — House gown. 4 5 Growing Girls For over 50 years Zoa-Phora has proven an invaluable remedy to meet the needs of weak. 20— Cloak. 11 —White petticoats. belts and acces- sories. build up the tissues^strengthen the nerves and put the entire constitution in harZoa-Phora is monious condition. — Light warm woolen 2— Under vests. Get your shoes of sensible style and thickness and large enough to be comfortable regardless of the season or fashion. 6 7 — Petticoats. for every girl entering womanhood. 8— School dress. purely a vegetable compound no alcohol. for during the pliable age. especially~compounded to purify and the blood. while you are growing you can seriously injure yourself and your health. Special attention should be paid to your corsets. by wearing a badly fitted corset. sickly girls and women. We would recommend the Berthe May "Hebe" Corset. together with complete instructions for the making of them and if you are a wise girl you will begin with the first lesson of this book and master every point of plain and fancy needlework for it is one of the most refined acquirements possible for a gentlewoman to attain. — Hosiery. — — Night gowns. Do not make the mistake of going without sufficient underwear and of a quality to give you sufficient warmth and have all of your lingerie plain and dainty. 16 17 Read our Special Offer Page 96 of this Book. enrich 4— Handkerchief s. Pengelly's pri- 13— Millinery. — Combination corset 1 combination 3 covers and -WOMAN'S FRIEND FOR drawers. — Shoes. 10 — Party dress. — Bath robes. as it will give you all the beautiful curves and angles without the discomfort and danger of the modern corset. Zoa-Phora is Dr. 1 vate prescription for women. suits. You will find on the following pages suggestions of appropriate styles for your gowns.

dainty garments will win for you a thousand fold more admiration than magnificent. 32nd Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister Choral Classes Bible Classes Page 83 . Piano and Apply to the Junior and Industrial Mandolin Lessons Orchestra Practice Young Women's Christian ^Association Clubs Prospect Avenue and East 18th Membership Parties St. made exactly on the same principle as a lady's dress. Remember immaculate. edge. Lesson 102.— Make has exactly according to Lesson 91. party and summer dresses. omit- hemming. whose youth and its natural qualities need no artificial adornment. and without collar Lesson 101.— ting GOWN if 3911. CLEVELAND.girlish. gorgeous effects suitable for the stage or at best for older women. sensible. — GIRLS SCHOOL shirt waist DRESS. Follow instructions for (Lesson 89). GIRL'S DRESSES. the material if embroidery omit omit Xll. Follow instructions for making as found in LesGirl's dresses are The son style 91. and if no lining X2— X6. shown is one widely approved of and very popular for graduating. Skirt (Lesson 95). whose natural charms are beginning to wane. as nothing is more unattractive than rich elegant garments worn by a sweet faced girl. OHIO West Side Branch Franklin and W. Collar (Lesson 63).

Prevents bronchial diseases. Cleveland.— CHILDREN'S DRESSES. O. The main goods such as point in planning children's garments in is to have them as plain and appropriate as possible.. Physicians recommend it. repps. so we do not take up space in giving this instruction. ones daintily dressed and Lickes Drug Co. Used in Cleveland Orphan Asylums 20 years. pared for Whooping Cough. clean. M'f 'rs. Lesson 104. flannel. Quickly cures Croup. At Druggists. percales. Make 54).CHILDREN'S CLOTHES. all tucks in goods before cutting (Lesson Cut (Lesson Close 76). every instance possible should be of wash etc. Hem Close (Lesson with dainty buttons and small button- holes (Lessons 29-30). 50 cts. In the latter instance the guimpe or sleeves it and yoke should always be of wash goods. but in the winter either underwear heavy enough to fully protect the child from the cold must be provided or woolen dresses of serge. bot. Shortens and lightens the disease. Especially pre- sewing where an economical wife and mother can save to more advantage than in by doing the work herself the making of the children's clothes. Every mother desires to see her little this requires 12 oz. collar 68). poplins. Colds. more labor and is care and expense than usually figured on. piques. $1.. plain (Lesson 41). 56). sleeves and put in (Lesson 69). ginghams. bot. so that It is can be kept perfectly hardly economical to make boys clothing after they leave the "Buster Brown" period. severe Coughs.00. and linens. seams. Page 84 . novelty goods or any warm material must be worn. There is perhaps no department of WHOOPING COUGH DUNHAM'S SPECIFIC. 5 oz. either 47). or French seams (Lesson Make Make Make ruffles and attach (Lesson (Lesson 48).

is The cape joined at may be lined or unlined and the neck. bottom of (Lesson Hem If . the of the collar. and sew on buttons (Lesson Fasten up back with washable buttons. is edging used overcast on neatly (Lesson 57). Lesson 106. 47). S3). A child's coat is made the after the same general instead principles as gown. Face waist armholes. Put 64). band on drawers to (Lesson make buttonholes button on waist (Lesson 29).— CHILDREN'S WAISTS AND DRAWERS. seam hidden by the facing 4483 Page 85 . drawers (Lesson 48).Lesson 105. Sew line a bias band around waist 30). and make buttonholes or sew on loops of elastic cord. Cut out (Lesson Join 76).— CHILD'S COAT. French seams (Lesson neck. except shoulders a of ruffles over the cape if desired may be made.

she usually prefers doing much of the work articles The Page 86 . for they are a comfortable. — Every mother should with rompers. one diaper cover.BELLE VERNON MILK the Best Milk Lesson provide her 109. INFANTS WARDROBE. CHAPTER VII. six night slips. comb and safety pins. three petticoats petticoats (flannel). one veil. (Lesson 64). Sew up straight seams (Lesson 41). and a layout containing all necessary toilet articles. little necessary to a child's wardrobe are very simple and easy to make. three dozen diapers. pared: three (white). and how many of each article to make. Gather at knees. especially one expecting for the first time. six bands. one kimona. three sacks. usually a question as to just what they are to make. Make sleeves (Lesson 69). six pair bootees. three wrappers. so below we will give a list of absolutely nec- garments and articles together with an idea of about the number of each that the average expectant mother should have preessary Six dresses. six bibs. one coat. infant's etc. Cut (see Lesson 76). Put on collar (Lesson 68). and if mother has the time to spare. Make pocket (Lesson Make belt 73). — ROMPERS. tal- cum powder. one cap. brush. six pair hose. child and saves the mother much care and thought concerning his clothes. sensible garment for the little one to play in. three pinning blankets. To it ^3800 is the prospective mother.

the Mother's Health Should Be the First Consideration. be more vitally important that the organs of maternity of the mother be in a perfect state of health and strength to undergo this trying ordeal? The expectant mother should begin to take ZOAas soon as pregnancy is known from time to time as needed according to directions. and neatly hem by hand. quick and easy delivery at birth. Make and attach collar (Lesson 68). The little flannel jackets are made in one piece and the edges should be The night gown. but it should not be worn at all times as the ordinary waterproof diapers are not porous enough to let the air properly to the child's body. and a rapid recovery of natural health and strength afterward. CAN anything than PHORA Read the Special Offer as Given on Page 97 Ex pectant mothers can not afford to be without Woman's Friend Page 87 . embroidered or neatly bound with pink or blue ribbon. the edges turned in and finished with an edging of lace or feather stitched. The petticoat. of Birdseye linen or Canton flannel. or if lace or embroidery edging is not used you may feather stitch around the edge of the collar and down the front on either side of the buttonholes and many prefer to feather stitch the hem (see Lesson 18).— The dress is made the same as instructed (Lesson 104) child's dress except very much longer. Make and put in sleeves (Lesson 69). Bibs should be of double thickness. gown (Lesson 104). Sew up seams (Lessons 41 and 47). Hem bottom of skirt (Lesson 48). and should take regularly during the last month of confinement and for one or two months after birth.— MAKING THE INFANT'S OUTFIT. (see Lesson 106). both flannel and the dainty white ones are made under same instructions as Lesson 105. A rubber diaper should be made for protection on occasions § when you are traveling or taking your child away from home. Make buttonholes (Lesson 29). and made as daintily as possible. While Preparing for the Coming of the Little One. This treatment is a positive aid in maintaining a good condition of health during confinement. cut square.Lesson 110. Sew on buttons (Lesson 30). Hem back the fronts (Lesson 48). Diapers should be made of good cotton diaper cloth. Cut (Lesson 76). follow instructions for making child's PRINCESS SLIP. Sew on lace or fine embroidery edging (Lesson 57). Kimona (see Lesson 86). The coat.

M i(.«m. for a process or chemical that removes the spot from one material will set the stain in or ruin another material.CLEANING. CUMMER'S SHOE DRESSINGS The Proper Dressing For EVERY Shoe Ask Your Shoeman Page 88 . must always be given to the nature of the spot and the material. You can do considerable for careful consideration mShT- ^!S>wb CLOTHES kept beautifully clean and in "crisp CUMMER'S Perfect (JAflVAS freshness" by every J^RESSING dainty housewife WITH CUMMER'S ffltCUMMEflPHODUCTSCO CltVEtAIO.0»«> ENERGINE I 'SHOE OMOINATION DRESSING" GOOD AT ALL C STORES wuwmu moms cs i ei«n. The cleaning of clothes and accessories of the dress is often a problem.

Nevertheless you will need a few suggestions for removing the spots and clothes and which you may desire to stains that are so apt to get on your try to remove yourself. then rinse and wash carefully in tepid soap suds. and then rinse in ammonia water. there are many garments your articles in good fresh condition. leathers. laces. and rinse thoroughly in clear tepid water. felts. furs. where you can depend upon your work being properly done. or if on white goods. dry cleaned. woolen. If on thin goods pour out a little alcohol in a bowl and rub out the stain. "Universal Dry Cleansing" It isn't the best. it should then be put in very hot water. in which has been added a mixture of equal parts of "Elwako". Ink Spots: There are many ways of removing ink spots. If the spot is still moist cover with sugar. We give you in these pages the addresses of first class establishments. Grass Stains: Must be removed with alcohol. Down Town Store 532 Euclid Avenue your own cleaning at home by using Cummer's Energine. or if the ink — — — — Page 89 . then wash in tepid soap suds and proceed as for blood stains. silk or cotton can most effectively be removed with Cummer's Energine full instructions for its use are found on the bottle. General Offices and Laboratories \2\$ tO 1230 East 71st St. that must be otherwise your article may be returned to you ruined. Coffee Stains:— Do not soak or put into soap suds until boiling water has been poured through the cloth until the stain is removed. rubbing until the stain disappears. soak the stain in salts of lemon. and Delivery Service. Auto Call Call Us Up —Phones. and care should be taken to select a reliable place. silks. if the stain is on a washable article. or if on heavier goods. Fruit Stains: Follow directions as for removing coffee stains. and good laundry soap. Rub pure lard on stain and leave for a few hours. Then follow directions as for removing blood stains. Boil from 20 to 30 minutes. Brass Stains. Soak in cold water. Blood Stains: Soak the stains in cold water over night. then wash in tepid soap suds and proceed as lor removing blood stains. feathers and almost anything cleanable. dip It is the a cotton cloth into the alcohol. If the article is such that it can be boiled. then pour boiling water through the of perfectly — — — spot until the stain has entirely disappeared. and it should always be kept on hand to keep However. if the goods can be boiled. Cocoa Stains. kid gloves. which will clean woolen goods. so the main point is to alcohol that removes the have your cloth well saturated with the alcohol.THE UNIVERSAL DRY CLEANSING // it isn't CO. Grease Spots on any fabric. salt or flour until you have absorbed all the ink possible. then wash in sweet milk and rinse in clear tepid water. stain and not the rubbing.

if Wash with cold water and a pure white soap. Cold on the Lungs. Perspiration until the stain is — Stains: Sponge with a weak solution of hydrochloric acid. Bruises. — and Paint Spots: Rub with vaseline until paint is softened. and one ounce of chloride of lime. and then rinse in clear cold water. Machine will wash. Blisters. than to attempt to do the work yourself. Catarrh and Colds in the Head. then wash gently in tepid soap in — suds and rinse in clear tepid water. Scalds. Phone Crest234 - W ump ^^ Z/^» ^§S3S3Rgg0r Page 90 Prompt Service We Call For and Deliver 13256 Euclid Avenue and 13430 Euclid Avenue . Boils. but as this is a very dangerous drug to work with it is usually better to send your garment to a cleaner. then wash in benzine or gasoline. Insect Bites. Or you may soak the stain in salts of lemon. or rub out the spots in equal parts of turpentine and alcohol. Oil: for 24 hours. Burns. all Children's Sore Throat. Chafes and Croup. or oxalic acid until the ink has been removed. Rust Stains may be removed by soaking chloric acid a diluted solution of hydro- and rinsing in clear cold water. Piles. if the material not rub wet borax over the spot and rinse in clear cold water. soak the stain in this solution for half an hour. rinse in clear tepid water.Zoa-Phora Balm No Family Supply is Complete Without Known Ointment---within easy reach at this Well Diseases. Spots: — Rub out in kerosene and wash in tepid soap suds and rinse in clear tepid water. Tea Stains: Vaseline — Follow directions for removing coffee stains. — Mildew: Soak in buttermilk spread on grass in sun. Rough Skin. Eruptions. For Chapped or Cracked Hands. times Common Skin all i D rice Zjc rer oox Off D D • ALL FIRST CLASS DRUGGISTS will supply you has dried wash out the ink stains in the milk and rinse as above directed. Scorch Marks can be effectively removed only by sunshine. then wash in gasoline or benzine. or turpentine and ammonia. or to a pint of water add one-fourth pound of sal soda. Iodine Stains can best be removed with chloroform. Bell Phone 2192 / [J Cleaners for Particular People Edd y r ^*^/S-r T s**n f^k C-5 Cuy. removed or the colors clear.

North 776 Cent. Boil from one-half to three-quarters of an hour in a bath containing soap. but keep them moving by stirring occasionally with a wooden stick. Dyeing Fine Lingerie and Lace Curtains Specialties and Feather Work 2420 Cedar Ave. you have a yellow dress and use a blue dye. When several pieces are to be dyed put in the dye bath at the same time. rugs. fabric. the probable result. changing the water when times. table covers and various other articles may be dyed and brightened up. the goods may be put back in the same dye bath. so that it may be taken out from time to time. Page if necessary. as it is The color of the impossible to dye a dark colored fabric a lighter color. 7420-R Doan 337-L Res. do not throw away the solution until goods are dry. and are much cleaner and dyes. Peacock Dyes are put up in collapsible tubes. If. so that in case the desired shade is not obtained. 90th Street Cleveland. This can be accomplished by boiling the goods. where without dyeing they would be useless. Ohio DYEING. do not crowd the goods. to put a small time and additional expense. before putting in the article to be dyed. There are in all which you are about to dye has nearly as much effect on the result as the dye you use. two or three 91 . Old and worn curtains. Snow Flake Hand Laundry The Cedar Cleaning Works Cleaning. ALL WORK GUARANTEED Fannie Hamlet. instances a few precautions in dyeing you must always follow. and dyed a deeper shade. Do not expect to dye a dark piece of goods a light shade. Phone. They are easy and simple to use. to see if the desired shade is obtained. the result will be a green. like many other dyes. if cotton or silk. In taking goods from the dye bath. appear as good as new and that at but a few cents of expense. Many old or shabby garments can be dyed and renovated and made over and months of service gotten from them. for instance. same shade. The best plan is to try a small piece of goods fabric first. and do not stain the hands. Unlike the old-time easier to handle than the old-fashioned dry powder whether it be of animal or dyes. they should all be otherwise a variety of shades would be the In discharging or removing old colors from material that has been previously dyed. so that it takes day to wear off. it is always best to discharge or remove as much of the old color as possible. Princt 2906-L . Prop. thus saving It is advisable. you can use the same dye for any vegetable nature. when dyeing. 2336 E. When dying. and see the result. without removing the article itself. it becomes discolored. piece of material in with the larger pieces. in fact making them in many cases.

Curtains. Wools. Silks. Feathers. making them much easier and cleaner to handle than the old fashioned powder dyes. etc. Mixed Goods. making them appear as good as new. old color come discharging when will not PEACOCK DYES For Home Dyeing THE ONE DYE FOR ALL FABRICS For dyeing Cotton.. may be dyed. as the newly dyed material the bright and uniform. etc. as of old color is it tends to The removal very important in dyeing articles out the that have been previously dyed. Linens. Chipped Straw. Tablecovers. no soap should be used. Basketry. Peacock Dyes are put up in collapsible tubes.When removing soften the wool. By the use of Peacock Dyes in the household a great many old. FULL DIRECTIONS ON EACH TUBE. color from wool. Rugs. worn and shabby Clothes. Apple Green . owing to article is put into the bath of some of new color. Raffia.

. Curtains or personal apparel. delicate texture or color. yet there are always numberless small things.LAUNDERING. Bedding. with full directions for using. and restores all the original brilliancy of color without injury. is not a Soap nor a Soap Powder. 1120 Prospect Ave.. Cleveland. that articles washed with last twice as long as when rubbed. 0. If you are not now using it. not gray or yellow. It contains no Lye or Acid. Cents in stamps and we will mail you. In this present day of good laundries the hardest and most laborious part of the work can be sent away. and will not injure any fabric. ELWAKO Elwako Manufacturing Co. You must be most careful in this SETTLES THE WASH-DAY QUESTION NO LYE NO ACID WILL MAKE YOUR CLOTHES CLEAN*WHITE WITHOUT RUBBING SOLD BY GROCERS YOU SHOULD USE ELWAKO Because thousands of other women have in your weekly washing. postpaid. get a If he does not keep it. Ask your grocer for it also. send us Ten package from your Grocer. E. which does wonderful work. or perhaps some pieces which one prizes very highly and one desires to have done at home. Page 93 . learned by practical experience that it saves the hard labor of rubbing and dispenses with the washboard. and that it makes white clothes WHITE. sufficient for four family washings. One 25 cent can will clean any common sized rug or carpet without rinsing or removing from the floor. whether they be Table Linen. We also manufacture CARPET CLEANER. It is invaluable ELWAKO ELWAKO IN It is YOUR LAUNDRY WORK sold by most Grocers. It is a scientific Washing Compound to be used in connection with any good Laundry Soap in accordance with directions printed on each package. or those ot a dainty. a package of regular size. S.

—Boil two tubs of tepid from 20 to 30 minutes and wrinse thoroughly through one or water and then through bluing water. taking precautions to always keep the garment it form or you may render unsightly by ironing out of shape. least being sure that the corners are well fastened. but over night better. water and roll —When —Iron dry. are worse than worthless. be careful to get good saving of labor. line. — Sort over your clothes. sort the and wash the finer first. one which will First. Second. the boiler with the clothes. being sure that nothing with if a color in it is put with the all-white clothes. sprinkle with tepid is tightly and leave for at one hour. for a badly laundered article is worthless to a particular or refined woman. We suggest the use of "Elwako. in perfect with great care. You should first see that remove the dirt and stains and germs without the unnecessary labor of rubbing. wrung out of the cold water.work. and coarser from the finer you have a large number of pieces. acid or substance of any' kind which will injure the most delicate fabric. — Shave in soap together one small cake of Elwako and one bar of any good laundry three pints of water and boil and stir until they are thoroughly Third. blow about and tear or become stretched out of shape. Then always use a good laundry aid. North 975 Central 3280-W Prospect Avenue and East 14th Street A Particular Laundry for Particular People Cleveland Ohio Page 94 . blended. — Put fill one-half of this mixture into a washboiler containing very hot water and Fourth. for you can wear your articles out more by rubbing them over a rough washboard than you would wear them out in a week of almost constant service.— -Starch and hang on so the articles will not Sixth. and it will make your clothes clean and whte with a Further.'' as it positively contains no lye. time and wear on your clothing. you have a good laundry soap many of the cheaper soaps. . Fifth. Seventh. and soak white pieces in cold water over night. where they can get the full benefit of the air and sun. bluing and good starch and if possible have your clothes hanged out of doors. as they will turn your clothes yellow and fade and cause the colors to run. that you get on bargain counters.

Zoa-Phora begins at the seat of your trouble and builds up every part of your body. a satisfactory. but Zoa-Phora is 2. inferior preparations Zoa-Phora is not an ordinary ignorant layman. plain. patent medicine— not some dope handed down by an the prescription of Dr." as do some of the cheap. When you know what Zoa-Phora really is you will be convinced if you are suffering with any form of disease peculiar to women. The following indisputable evidence will convince the most skeptical of the merits and value of Zoa-Phora. Maiden. No alcohol in it to Zoa-Phora is excite the nervous system and make you feel fine for a few hours and then leave you weak and exhausted. relieved and cured the very worst forms of Female Trouble and ailments peculiar to women. 4. Zoa-Phora contains only the best and purest Positively the best ingredients preparation. just what Zoa-Phora is compounded of. 1. Zoa-Phora is Nature's own restorative and cure. known to of drugs. Zoa-Phora contains no alcohol positively not one drop is used. does not make drunkards or a craving for stimulants. that you have found a treatment perfected to the limit of modern medical discovery. 8. — on the market. and you will then know to your own satisfaction and benefit just what Zoa-Phora really is. Zoa-Phora is a vegetable compound. and Grandmother find it the best woman's especially the sexual organism. We to cure. harmful drugs. No expense is spared in modern medical science are used in its its Zoa-Phora is not a secret formula. Page 95 . It is manufactured only of the best and most valuable roots and herbs known to science. Mother. 6. or any dangerous or 5. In addition to the splendid tonic effects of Zoa-Phora many women need a good local treatment and in order to encourage the use of our Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones in all cases when needed we are making the following offer of a full Ten Days' Treatment of our Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones (further information on page 79 of this book). Present this coupon to your nearest druggist. and given entire satisfaction. Our remedies are used by the thinking class of women throughout the United States and we are giving you a few reasons why you are safe in choosing Zoa-Phora in preference to all other remedies and why you are guaranteed satisfaction. It is indeed (Woman's Friend). Zoa-Phora 3. Zoa-Phora does not contain minerals. Does not this prove that Zoa-Phora is beyond question all that it is claimed to be? Write today and we will send you a copy of its formula. for nearly women. rational. are not afraid to publish to every woman and to every physician and to the whole world. No opiates or narcotics to suddenly deaden your pain and in time ruin your nervous system. If compounded your druggist has no free box for you have him With the purchase of one Dollar-size bottle of Zoa-Phora the bearer is entitled to a full ten days' special treatment of the Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Cones which the Zoa-Phora Company are supplying the drug trade free of charge for this purpose. 7. tonic to carry them safely through the various changes of womanhood. It does not make "drug fiends. therefore. composition. Pengelly. Zoa-Phora is one of the oldest reliable preparations on It has. one of the greatest Specialists of his age in the treatment of the diseases of women. If you want to be cured. write us. — of diseases of the market for the treatment 50 years. opiates.— WHAT Is IS ZOA-PHORA? is Zoa-Phora" THIS question "What women seeking asked by intelligent reply. Wife. narcotics. asked hundreds of times daily honest Before using a treatment a sensible woman wants to know what she is using she is perfectly justified in demanding an honest and straightforward answer. give Zoa-Phora a chance to do its good work.

etc. OHIO . 18503 Detroit Avenue Go today to your nearest druggist and procure the remedies you need and send the faces from the packages direct to These beautiful teaspoons axe of the favorite Narcissus pattern.. and will wear a life time.50 Remedy - Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones Number Balm ----3 - . full line And in Lakewood and Detroit Avenue the of Zoa-Phora supplies can be procured from Lindsley Drug Co.50 - - ..50 .50 . Marshall Drug Stores The May Co. You can procure Zoa-Phora from every including the first class druggist in Cleveland.25 - Not One Cent to Pay for the Teaspoons Now or Later Send us the three wrappers or cartons as indicated above.00 Cold Remedy La Grippe Remedy . 1 - Number Number Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Pile Zoa-Phora (Woman's Friend) 2 - $1. 16924 Detroit Avenue Dole.25 . 15621 Detroit Avenue Ludwig Pharmacy. which means one Zoa-Phora (Woman's Friend) wrapper and your choice of any one of the remedies in Number Two and one from Number Three..DEC 19 1912 One Set of Silver Teaspoons Free To Users of Zoa-Phora Send us the front of the carton or box from any one of the packages in each of three divisions below arranged and the full set of RANTED TEASPOONS \L SIX TRIPLE PLATED. Standard Drug Stores Purity Drug Co. 4706 Detroit Avenue Wilson Drug Co. fully warranted.25 . FULLY WARwill be sent you by return mail. 11600 Detroit Avenue Alford Crocker. best triple plated.25 Digestive Tablets Stomach and Liver Pills Anti-Constipation Pills - . The Zoa-Phora Remedies 1803 Co. Adams Street Page 96 TOLEDO.


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