Coates Sewing and
Dress Making Manual
COATES & COMPANY
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Write Dept. greatly improve appearance garment.
Grean Shoulder Form and Pad
327-329 East 34th Street. 75 cents. white your waist.
(new). 15 cents a pair.
A— Perfected. or lace waists on high. 00.open front or hack. 35 and 50 cents.. ready for draping. silk Corsica. 15 cents a pair. or nlack percaline.
Work and Worry
almost finished lining for tight-fitting waists. $3.00 (CSS) Eton front. Use one or all and
invisible. sealed to insure cleanliness. very helpful in altering or reinforcing fronts. not bust measurement. (1) front for long coat. lias hooks and eyes. shaped. boned with hasted seams ahove. seamless belt. A loose-fitting net lining for light. 3 for 10 cents. Bray. chiffon.
made. proof.50 to $4. 5 for 15 cents. washable. clever pad.
direct or through
a catalogue oj other dressmaking helps.00. You cannot make anyone of these essentials for anywhere near
the price. boned.
armhole. Carefully manufactured of best materials for correct tailoring of garments in prevailing styles. SI. write us. nor after hours of tiring effort obtain the perfect they insure. fills in usual hollows around overlapping padded points for shoulders. guaranteed collar supports. silk *l DO. 50 cents to $1. white or black. of thoroughly shrunken linen canvas reinforced with hair-cloth and felt. cotton.
and the Professional Dressmaker. has hooks and eyes.. Money. Black or white.^
Pitied "Waist Lining
EAL. Order by exact size of Linolawn. if
you are not
satisfied. for short coats. HEAVILY COVERED WITH PURE SILK FLOSS. Designed for the trade and now sold in leading Dry Goods Stores everywhere.
any shoulder effect desired. on new principle.
If you cannotobtain
supply you dealer and send you
dealer's. in transparent envelopes. PRACTICAL HELPS
FOR THE HOME
29. Sewing on Lace or Embroid58. ..
— ery Embroidery — Setting on Lace or and Eyes — Sewing Hooks 27. 44.
4.— Catch Stitch 12. 41.'.— Button Hole Stitch
25.— Solid Embroidery 21.— Tucks and Pleats 55.
30.— Seed Stitch 1 5.— Braiding 28.— INTRODUCTION 2.
9 10 10 10
11 11 11
27 28 28 28 29
Copyright 1912 by Lydia Trattles Coates
. Chevrons.—Ruffles 26.-
— Sewing on Buttons — Loops — Darning — Stoting — Patching — Overhand Patch" — Bands and Folds
61. 50. 32.— PLAIN AND FANCY STITCHES. Cleveland.— Shirring 56.
".— Felled Seam — Bound Seam — Strap Seam 45.— Slant
6. 27. GUjrato Nutnttan
IpII Eaat 541
13TB East mtlf
COATES SEWING AND DRESS MAKING MANUAL
Published by Coates Advertising Agency..— Damask Stitch 16.— Welt Seam — Lapped Seam — French Seam — Hemming —To Hem Corners — Damask Hem
46.— Blanket Stitch 24.
2.— Double Folds 38.— Outline Stitch 8.—Satin Stitch (French
37.'.— Cross Stitch 18.— Punch Work 16. .-
— Cording — Seams 42.
3.. Emblems and Monograms
— Eyelets —
and Eyelet Embroidery
14 16 16 16 16 17 17
26 26 26 27
22.— Hem Stitch 17. 60. Stays and Collar — Putting Supports — Marking of Linen and Underwear — Embroidery Designs
.— Milliner's Fold 39.
21 21 21
5.— Couch Stitch 1 1.—TO HOLD THE GOODS 3.— Cable Stitch
— Knot —Running Stitch — Basting — Backstitch
7 7 7
33.— Chain Stitch 9.— Piping
40.— French Knots 14.
22 22 23 24 24 24 24 24 24 24
25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25
51.— Embroidery Scallops.
. 36. 23.— Feather Stitch 19.
Beginners' Voices Carefully Built and Trained
7.'.— Long and Short Stitch 20. 57.
.— Fagot Stitch 13.
Art of Play Writing and Criticism
iFlomtrp Hartlja itaaett (Swr^r)
Graduate of Harroff School of Expression.— DYEING 18. 89.— NECESSARY
(B)—Threads (C)— Sewing Thread
DRESS30 30 30
(F)— Linings (G)— Patterns
Embroidery Thread Hooks and Eyes
(H)— Tape (I)— Dress
—Dress Form —Dress Trimmings 6.
48 48 49
MATERNITY OUTFIT. 80. 100.— Making of Gowns
— Children's 136.
86 86 87 93
. Cleveland and Graduate of School of Expression.— Coat Sleeve 73.
75. — Children's
105.—Turn Down Collars 69.. (A) — The Well Groomed Woman.
85. 82.— CLEANING 17.—THE WELL GROOMED WOMAN..
67 68 68 68 69 70
76 76 78
98.— Night Gowns — Combination Undergarments.
101. Cuffs and Lap Closings 72.
— Street. (D)— Millinery (E) — Lingerie
42 43 44 45 45
Kimonas 87. 65.— Shirt Waists 91. 64. — Making of Dinner Gowns. —The Young Lady's
82 83 83 84 85 85
.— Tailored Collars 68.
— Shirt Waist Supporter — Rain Coat and Waterproof Garments Lesson — Corset Covers — Drawers " — Chemise " 81.. 86. President
Dr. 79. 88. SHRINKING
ING. 94.— MILADY'S WORDROBE (A) — Corsets (B)— Sanitary Belts (C) — Sanitary Skirt Protectors.— Petticoats — Skirts and Underwear Without Plackets — Dressing Sacques
" 78.— FITTING AND ALTERATIONS.
— Lesson — Fitting and Alterations..5410.— Sleeves 70.— CUTTING. 83.
8.— Girl's School Dress 103.— Aprons
— Lingerie Waists — Housekeeping Gowns — Evening and Dinner Gowns.— COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS SPECIFIC WORK Lesson — Plackets —Belts and Bands —Yoke and Peplums
63.— Shirt Waist Sleeves 71. Curry.
—CHILDREN'S CLOTHES.— SPONGING.— High Collars 67.
57 58 60 61 61 62 63 64 64
—Rompers Coats 15.— Children's
Outfit.— INFANT'S OUTFIT Lesson — Making the Infant's
— Maternity Corsets —Maternity Gowns — Maternity Skirts GIRLS' SUPPLIES.— Dress
102. (B) — Scientific Beauty Culture 5811.
95.— Girl's -Gowns
44 60 47
20 55 89
77 78 54
35 45 48 55
Grean Arm Pad Grean Fitted Belt
Warner Hat Shoppe Warren Featherbone Co White Sewing Machine Co Wilson Dress Hook Co
Wright. (Sewing Silk) Belding Bros. The May. & C. Mrs. Berthe (Corsets)
19 53 58 51
Co. N.. & Co Lawson School of Music Lickes Drug Co.
Stroud. T. (Ganesh Toilet Preparation) A. L.
pREE— Books on Health.
Zoa Phora Co
57. H. Mrs. etc.
' . by all means secure one of Dr.. Wm. C. health. 95. H. F.
24 22 24
Trouble. even if all else has failed. Ohio Office Furniture Co
infallible as the daily rising
55. (Book and Art Exchange). (Manicuring and Chiropody). (Cravenette)
Dye) Dowd. Co.
cures. A. Grean Shoulder Form and Pad Grean Dress Making Specialties Grean Long Coat Front Foundation Grean Short Coat Front Foundation Grean's "Greanet" Grean Fitted Waist Lining Grean Coat Collars
Fassett. & C. Oxydonor will do it. Spinal Trouble. but as and setting of the sun.. C. Sanche's Oxydonor's and by the use of it as directed. ("Hair Vim") Snow Flake Laundry
Shaver. (Fashion Book)
B. Sanche for the purpose of healing the sick. The process is natural
and very simple. (Real Estate) Conover. (Piano Instruction)
58 20 60 93 42
G. E. Review Co. Abbie E.. (Dust Bright)
Hawley Restaurant Henke Furniture Co
Hexter's Lining Store Ideal Faucet Syringe Co Interstate Drug Co. Pictoral Pictorial
(Shino) (Dress Form) Co. (Ice Cream) Universal Dry Cleansing Co Victor Insect Exterminating Co
Florence Martha (Expression) Frederick Piano Co Fries & Schuele Fulton.
7. M.. W. T. Maud De Long (Dermatologist) Smith Carriage & Auto Co Smith Chemical Co. (Peacock
10 Cents for Postage. F.. 76.
(Havanco Mending Tissue)
Haserot Co. (Naiad Dress Shield) Continental Casualty Co Creme de Luxe Cummer Products Co.
Hall. Nervousness. G.
30. Mrs. you will be restored to health.
(Funeral Director). E... Cleveland Credit Clothing Co Cleveland Dress Trimming Co College of Science (Acme) Connelly Co. Mfg. (Woven Names) Reis Initial Co. 337 Old Arcade
INDEX TO ADVERTISERS
Adair. David (Shirtwaist Belts) Battle Creek Sanitarium Food Co Belding Bros. Wright.
21 34 23 12
Arbor Tea Shop
Art Pleating Shoppe Baird Bros. (Monarch Polish) Basch. Co.
Pneumatic Form Co. Dr. Miss L.. (Morlene) Korach. (Wrinkle Eradicators)
64 52 80 40 56 56 33
25. Chester (Vocal Instruction).OXYDONOR
"This wonderful little appliance.
69 63 16 76
8. (Dunham's Specific) Long. (Embroidery Scallops) Reis Initial Co.." Edward Rigby of Lisbon.
72 41 46 54 37
Review Co. performs
which border on miracles. (Sleeve Initials) Reis Initial Co. E. B. Co. (Energine Shoe Dressing) Devoe. Miller. Co. (Osteopathic Physician) Morehouse Co Noteman.
64 38 66 32 36 62 83 96
13. invented by Dr. Main 730
Sons Co. (Embroidery Catalog). R. Ellen C.. (Domestic Cleaner) Swalley's Credit Store Telling Co. Co. (Public Stenographer). & Co. (Sewing Machine Supplies)
Studio (Art Work) Cedar Cleaning Works Chandler. Mrs.
Pioneer Mfg. Diabetes. (Katharos)
Public Hand Laundry Reis Initial Co. (Embroidery Silk) Belding Bros. No. (Sanitary Belt). or are any of your family suffering from disease? If so. Co. (Linings) Belle Vernon Dairy Co Berner's Art Store Boston Dry Goods Co B. (Sanitary Protectors) American Textile Mfg. (Embroidery Initials)
74 50 39 65 94 14 29 28
18 19 71
Facial College Elwako Mfg. (Tape) Sons Co. Ohio. (Elwako Laundry Aid) Euclid Cafetiere (Lunch Club) Farr.
Mandarin. & P. Raynolds Co. Frank (Dentist) Electra Pure Water Co. Co. Margaret B. Co.
Rosenblum Clothing Co Sanar Remedy Co
(Attorneys at Law) Shop of Kimonas and Art Laces Skalla..
Thus dressmaking will become an Art and a Science and a pleasure instead of a nerveracking. laboritheir
ous piece of drudgery. On the other hand if they know just how to go ahead and have each step made plain for them to follow they could add many beautiful garments to To be sure much that is very helpful their wardrobe at a very small cost. We have made the system as brief and as easy as possible and by following faithfully the instructions and always turning to the lessons designated you will find that you have a reliable guide to the making of every essential garment for your wardrobe. E.
Many women go
garments made or are forced to wear unbecoming. has been written on the subject of sewing and many of our best magazines have given us invaluable information.
LAXATIVE BRAN BISCUITS
"The samples you gave
do the work
ine were delicious"
BATTLE CREEK SANITARIUM FOOD
CO. using herself as the model and her materials. Cleveland. For this reason this plain. etc. non-individual clothes simply because they do not know exactly how to cut and fit and make and finish the articles of their apparel and without complete instructions before them do not feel like risking the time and the material in experimenting.
Quigley Desks Chairs Armor-Clad Steel Furniture Cuspidors and other Office Furniture
Murphy & Gunlocke
1145 Prospect Ave. L. trimmings.
THE OHIO OFFICE
Central 332 1-K Main 1368
INTRODUCTION. 111-112 Old Arcade
.Public Stenographer Duplicating
Tables. as the means of presenting to the world her ideal of thought. Sewing is an art and the woman who clothes herself with an eye to bringing out the possibilities of her grace and beauty and best points of individuality. but many women do not preserve these periodicals or have not the time to wade through all the other literature and sometimes a labyrinth of instructions to find out the system of properly cutting out and putting together and finishing a dress or suit or piece of underwear or perhaps doing up a piece of household sewing. simple and comprehensible set of Sewing and Dress Making Lessons have been compiled without waste of words or unnecessary repetitions.
CO... and hiding any possible defects of her contour or carriage will work as an artist. S.
without as complete a wardrobe as they would like to have or pay out more money than they feel that they should spare to get
429 The Arcade
French seams. Lesson 17.oOOCNO''. Lesson
STITCHES. hold the work firmly in the left hand.— RUNNING STITCH.
by backstitching (Lesson
TO HOLD THE GOODS.
FREDERICK PIANO CO.
materials. Sit up straight.
W.— stitches through the cloth should It will be of exact and equal length. and do not form the bad habit of pinning the work to your skirts and then humping over to do it or winding seams over the forefinger of your left hand. FANCY
Sound Proof Demonstrating Parlors
. leaving the right hand Never hold the work so as to crush and free with which to do the stitches. gathering.. be in constant use for seams on light
Always hold the goods in a position so the stitches are taken toward you.
needle with proper sized thread and hold in Wind thread once over forefinger of right hand and pull tightly. crumble it nor yet so loosely that the stitches are taken unevenly.
Slant Stitch. Lesson
Stitch. Basting Stitch.
Try Our Superior Service Today.
PLAIN. but learn and practice holding and doing your work properly and sitting erect.
. hemming of
The Proof of
of "Frederick Service" In the Trying
Every Record Every Victrola $15.
F. Always take stitch under the hem or seam to hide knot but in open space where this is not possible fasten thread by taking two or three stitches over each other or
IV. left hand. Knots should never be visible in any sewing except in basting.
Voice Culture of both the singing and speaking voice a specialty.—The
Lesson 5. using two or three stitches to hold (never knot under a fold). Use Slant Stitch (see Lesson 5). Lesson 4. Lay your cloth perfectly in place and then fasten by taking even or uneven running stitches through the material as in cut. handing are to have needle point at exact depth and be exact distance between each stitch.— BACKSTITCH.— Begin at the right and work toward the left.— OVERCASTING
AND OVERHANDING. then take a short back stitch back on the upper side and a long stitch forward on the under side.— Baste
edges exactly even or if single trim smooth and even.— SLANT STITCH. Ohio
All branches of Music and Dramatic Art taught in a thorough. This is one of the most particular lessons in sewing as every stitch must be exactly the same in height and distance apart. Point the needle toward the left shoulder and pass it through a few folds of the material and a few threads of the fold.
Beginners or Advanced Pupils
Private or Class Lessons Day or Evening
. practical and artistic manner.Sewing
Prospect Avenue and East 18th Cleveland. varying the distance between stitches according to the quality and thickness The two important features of perfect overcasting or overof the material. Lesson 6.
—BASTING. progressive. (See cut 1. The half back stitch is taken half way back between the space of where the thread is drawn through and where the stitch leaves off on the upper side.
Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister
fundamental principle of all good fitting and adjusting lies in the proper basting. Begin next stitch exactly where last stitch left off on upper side of sewing (see cut 1).
CIk Cawson School of music and Other Tine
10507 Superior Avenue
Cleveland. Insert the needle under the fold. Ohio
West Side Branch Franyin and West 32nd
Home Nursing Home Making
St. Hold your goods with the edges which you are sewing on toward you.—Take a few running stitches (see Lesson 2). page 6). From under side draw needle through cloth exact depth to be overcasted or overhanded and take stitch over and through twice to hold firmly.
wrinkle the goods. bringing needle through one stitch distance ahead and proceed as before.— OUTLINE
T TTVT/^O French . thread under
your dealer does not carry "Belding's.
of the previous
STITCH. & CO. hold
teed fast dve.
Process Embroidery Silk
and every conceivable shade.
take a short stitch
through the material.— CHAIN
the top of your design and always
needle through material.American
. except that drawn through at the side.— The
as the chain
made almost exactly Lesson 8).
in eight different twists.— Take
even stitches. half
the center.— Start
Lesson 8." write tell you where it can be obtained.
back two threads on the precedtightly.
holding your work with the needle pointing toward you
and always keeping the thread on the same
COSTUMES. or The
Co. Seed. SKIRT
profusely illustrated and contains
the various kinds of embroideries. SHIRT WAISTS. —'Couching
laying straight lines
Hold the threads in place with your left hand and fasten them to the material with small stitches on the right side. SUITS.
Fully explained and illustrated in
linen. Solid and Outline
Including numerous designs for the popular Braid
New The New
Review Embroidery Catalog.
STITCH. New York.
not forgetting the
exquisite designs for
wear. and Infants' and Children's Wear.
The "New" Pictorial Review
with ideas and suggestions of interest to any
woman who em-
broiders or does fancy work. Y. by mail. Send 20 cents for a sample of this work begun on
Price 10 cents. 15 cents
THE PICTORIAL REVIEW COMPANY
THE PICTORIAL REVIEW BUILDING 222 West 39th Street.
. such as
These may be obtained
Transfer or Perforated Patterns
Purchase a copy today
any newsdealer. having the stitches in each row fall between those
the opposite row. N. Satin. BELTS.
for exact position of needle). High Grade Stationery.
Announcements and other special occasions.
Bldg.— HEMSTITCHING. insert the to as many threads as are desired (always the same number).
Anniversary.— Draw the required number of threads Hold the hem and turn hem and baste exactly below last thread drawn. china decorating and
firing. At the place where the threads cross catch
the cross stitch.and . Wedding.
The rows must be evenly spaced and the each row falling midway between those of
the rows at either side of them.
Protect -Yourself . Be positively and safely provided for by the largest Health and Accident Insurance Company in the world.Mgr. pictures in
Book ana Art exchange
31 Taylor Arcade Monogram Work. Dainty Cards. and draw the needle through to the right of the group and take a short stitch in the fold (See cut No. Cleveland.
When the be worked. group from three toward you.— DAMASK
the unforseen. (See Lesson 11. and ask us to tell you today and let us explain or call up
CENTRAL WHAT FIVE CENTS PER DAY WILL DO FOR YOU.
C. unexpected piece of bad luck comes. 358 The Arcade SICKNESS OR AN ACCIDENT MAY COME TOMORROW ACT TODAY
. your cash income does not stop just when you most need it.
FRAMING A SPECIALTY.Watt.
Paints for china 10c and 15c each.
teach or paint to order.)
Men and Women. 1.
Lesson 15. also teach
work. page 6. pastel or crayon.— SEED
STITCH.E. of the hem. Birthday. laid draw through in the number of threads have been opposite direction at even distances apart another set of threads.the . CONTINENTAL CASUALTY CO.Art
seed stitch is made by taking small stitches covering the leaf or petals of a design or
monogram. O. Come in 2357 -W. needle under and through the hem.
If he fails send us SI. Enlarged
we will say that in every dangerous and disagree92% of all cases. therefore we want every person afflicted with Goitre and similar troubles to know that there is a remedy
really a success in
have relatives or friends
Your druggist can supply you
MANUFACTURED ONLY BY
The above statement has been so thoroughly proven that we are almost tempted to say Morlene However.— CROSS
possible misrepresentation case
able conditions accompanying Goitre and gives entire satisfaction to how bad or how long standing.Lesson 17.
Morlene is not an experiment.
Thick Neck. to say the least. 50 and we will promptly deliver a full size package containing a sufficient quantity for an ordinary treatment of 30 days. to avoid will cure any case of Goitre. its effectiveness has been thoroughly proven.
They should know about
if he wants your trade. and it often produces dangerous condiaffecting the eyes. no matter
is unsightly and disagreeable. Thick Neck or
for the sake of a better
appearance the Double Chin. the breathing or the blood flow to and from the brain.
you are not
afflicted but of Morlene. Ohio
. so it is always best to get rid of any enlargements about the throat whether they be Goitre.— The
simply bringing one stitch across the angle of the
Penetrates through plastering.
(See cut).— SOLID
EMBROIDERY. and recommended by the State Medical authorities as being the only absolute remedy known to Science. It's just another instance of White superiority. There's no time like the present to look the White over. insects. Talk about trouble why. rats. hold thread
take a short stitch through and to the right side of
down with the mark or
STITCH— BRIAR STITCH.
and two stitches to the left.
Our methods are used
AND SHORT STITCH —
Follow exact instructions as slant
5). It is the method endorsed by the Government experts of all nations. etc.
rid Boats. instead made by taking three stitches to the
19. to say nothing of the loss of time in trying to get the machine to work right. Happily the White experts came to the rescue with this remarkable device
THREAD CAST-OFF THE White Rotary Thread machine
SANITATION HEALTH HAPPINESS
absolutely the most up-to-date and efficient method in use.— Is
made by using
are at your service.
— No poison— No bad odors. Churches and Stores of all germs. first on
the right then on the
left. CLEVELAND. and you can imagine the annoyance it has caused the operator. bring needle through to right side. mice.
exclusively on the C. Hotels.— Mark
thread along the
chalk or run a colored
Let us hear from you.
down directly on downward to left
mark or mark
and hold with thumb and take short or line and repeat taking stitch.— the
the only is equipped with a Cast-off. one-half the dis-
depth as the succeeding one. Warehouses. manufacturers of Rotary machines have had a world of trouble with the thread tangling in the shuttle race.
White Sewing Machine Co.
except that one stitch
taken. etc. bedding.
should be fumigated by our method once a year it will be clean and healthful.
with pencil or
feather or briar stitch
made by taking two
stitches to the right
of one while the triple feather stitch right and three to the left.
short stitch in successive rows until the design
Thread Cast-off (it's exclusively White) and the difficulty vanished as if
DON'T NEGLECT YOUR
Victor Insect 351 The Arcade
Underlaying and Basting difficulties eliminated.
Letters and Scallops
They add that much help to make your wearing apparel and household linen distinctively rich. Hold thread under left thumb forming loop. page
IS. Nor will they discolor or harm the finest fabric. They are very simple.
Sold at the Art Counter of
Initials. New York
their attractiveness. shows the exact position of the needle.
REIS FOUNDATION LETTERS
in three styles:
gramrr. You will use the Satin
the Chevrons. Remarkable as it may seem. a
of a dealer in your city
stamp and the who would most
our goods.ed des'gns the letters. and work over with That's all.
in six styles— 26 patterns.
620 Broadway.— SATIN
Reis' Letters and Scallops make embroidering simply delightful with the Stamping. Draw needle through loop and repeat taking every stitch very closely together so no gap appears between the stitches.
In Sizes from
inch to 10 Inches. and retail at a uniform price of 10c per card of to the small sizes and S of a yard to the large.— EMBROIDERY SCALLOP STITCH.— Fasten thread by running and back stitches.— (French Embroidery)— The
LEARN AX OUR EXPENSE
How easily the most inexperienced sewer can create perfectly stunning effects in embroidery with the new Reis Gumbac Foundations Scallops. boilings and ironings that the article on which they are embroidered will withstand. Take
with needle pointing downward.
sample strips of scallops and samples of the Reis Letters in your initial.
Reis Gumbac Foundations are not made of ordinary paper or even papier mache. and in
the stitch taken straight across from one edge to the other of the design or taken on a slant from one edge to the opposite edge. Our standing offer is as follows:
"We Will Pay for Any Garment Injured Gumbac Foundations Through Washing or
by Reis Ironing. silk or cotton. we guarantee that they will retain their shape and appearance through all the washings.
at the present time. The material in their composition is of European origin. desired tone of expressive charm— an indication of character— the "intangible something" of which a woman can well be proud. If you can thread a needle you can successfully use them. the scallops or embroidered edge vary according to the Often the depths of pattern or design to be worked and the outline must be very carefully followed.Lesson 21. Just moisten the back and stick on. The cut shown in Lesson 25. especially
silk will add to when working mono-
— easily accomplished
Send us your name.
Then a running stitch must be very carefully taken at the exact line desired to indicate the depth. When your foundation is completed then embroider according to embroidery scallop
There and there
stitch. The old method is to buy a transfer pattern or hire the stamping done. Upholstery.
last a lifetime. or Central 8258 K.
The DOMESTIC Hand Cleaner
as powerful as the best portable electric. tedious and laborious manner of embroidering scallops new.
510 The Arcade
For free demonstration phone Main 2463.
cabinet built and will
the only hand cleaner
with attachments for cleaning Mattresses. Then you must pad your scallops with the chain stitch using a good filling cotton.
only Vacuum Cleaner with Full Ball-Bearings and a BaliBearing Adjustable Roller under the suction
plate for light or
B. pleasant and easy way. etc.
D OMESTIC VACUUM C LEANER
and Dust are a Constant Menace to Your Home
large percent of our contagious
eases are carried into the
dust. With these attachments you have a cleaner with every advantage of an electric machine at a
greater cost than the best
old. E. Ohio
.THE OLD WAY TO EMBROIDER SCALLOPS. or come to our office.
— Eyelets may be round.— PUNCHED
WORK.— Begin by fastening thread by using running and back stitch. Make stitches very even and rather tight and then shape perfectly with .
To save time and energy and to insure satisfactory results with your work.— BLANKET STITCH. taking care to always have the stitches exactly the same distance apart and exactly the same height. a small distance apart. oval. Smith. procure the necessary length of Reis Foundation Gumbac Scallops. The blanket stitch is the same as the buttonhole stitch only each stitch is made instead of very close together as the buttonhole stitch is done. REMODELING AND REPAIRING. Then fastening your thread on the under side of the material. bringthe
ing the point just outside the outline stitch.
Lesson 26. begin work in the upper left-hand corner of the design. See cut of Lesson 25. except that in embroidery the point of the needle is toward the edge while in buttonholeing the point of the needle is toward the cloth. This eliminates all the drudgery of stamping your design and all the filling-in work and gives a much more desirable effect than you can possibly obtain by the ordinary methods.—The Buttonhole stitch and the Embroidery Scollop stitch are done exactly the same (see Lesson 22). which can be embroidered over without any of the preliminary work explained. Run a cotton thread around the outlines with very small running stitches to hold the form.
each stitch just outside the cotton outline stitch
and draw the point through the stilettoed opening or set the needle through the opening.AUTOMOBILE PAINTING. Then send the needle down in the first dot of the second row and bring it up in the second dot of the first row. Pass down
needle dot of the dot of the second row. L.— Thread
and knot it at the eye. send it down in the first up again in the first dot of the first row and draw the thread slightly to pull the goods together.— EYELETS EYELET EMBROIDERY.the
stiletto.— BUTTONHOLE STITCH. oblong or pointed. Hold thread under left thumb forming loop take stitch depth desired with needle pointing downward.
THE NEW WAY TO EMBROIDER SCALLOPS. and repeat.
row. Bring up the
work. drawing needle through loop. NEAR CORNER OF EUCLID AVENUE
Smith Carriage $ Auto Co. TRIMMING.
for exact position of needle.
1911 Cars Remodeled with Fore Doors and Repainted to Resemble 1912 Models
EAST 66TH STREET. All you need to do is to moisten the scallop. Either manner is correct.
then punch with a
stiletto. press down with your hand and work over with the stitch taught you in Lesson 22.
It can be developed with plain braid. cord.
Lesson 27. not having the time or the inclination to do this work for themselves can make up their garment and then have experienced braiders neatly and carefully carry out your ideas in any simple or elaborate design which you may
select. so that the effect will be one
of little squares. gowns.
Bring your work to us or
phone and we
us up by either you what we can do for you. Coats and Blouses the latest. these patterns for braiding must be most carefully done and the design followed exceedingly accurately in order to produce a satisfactory effect. bias tubing or fine embroidery or the design can be followed with the outline or chain stitch.
Ladies'. Braiding is most suitable and effective for a border or a trimming for waists. pass down through the second dot of When the second row and bring up again in the third dot of the first row. chiffon braid or cord and a long stitch on the back. turn the naterial and repeat the stitch at right angles to the first set of stitches. To secure the most attractive effect the braid should be sewed on the edge so that it will stand up on the material. most artistic and approved designs. Suits.
styles. you have done all of the work in one direction.
(Braiding and Embroidering)
. so the plainest or the most fastidious tastes can be satisfied. serge or linen a braid or cord the color of the material should be used.^
through the second dot of the second row. The stitch used to sew on the braid is a short stitch on the right side of the For materials of net. evening wraps or children's dresses and can be used on any material. or marquisette a dull silver or fine gold or soft silk cord put on with button The stamping of hole couching makes a most beautiful border or trimming.
II. suits. There infinite variety of beautiful designs and patterns now in vogue for is an Those braiding. bring up through the second dot of the first row. soutache. Misses'
and Children's Dresses. On heavy goods such as velvet.— BRAIDING. FOURTH STREET. draw the thread a bit._l-Mi
lessons on embroidery for the
monogram work. rons and monograms on a separate piece See of broadcloth or linen. boys' suits. household handkerchiefs. work
CHEVRONS AND EMBLEMS.
. chevrons and monogram foundations and
work over them with the
Chevrons and emblems are very appropriate for sailor suits. etc. table covers.
^g inch to 10 inches.Use Reis Foundation Letters for
initials. and a number of purposes which present them-
and children always delight in an emblem or chevron on their arm.
satin stitch (see
you can stamp them on paper and baste them on the goods and embroider.— MONOGRAMS.
supply you with
Reis Foundation Letters for any desired purpose
Q t the needlework department
Lesson 28. You can either get the Reis emblems. cutting the paper or crinoline away as soon as finOr you may embroider the chevished.
Sold at the needlework department of every department and dry goods store or send for our illustrated bcok on embroidering and samples in
The Morehouse Co.
your monograms or
have plain and
every need of embroidery
such as lingerie. and sew on. while grown ups always appreciate their monogram neatly worked on their garments.
This extraordinary offer is made to convince every
of the superiority
your home with attractive and
We will give
Pillow Outfit including
1 Pillow Top
oblong or square
Every woman wants these attractive pillows and also knows the true value of
on Aberdeen Crash.
1 Back for Pillow
arrangement of stitches
and color scheme.—
This Beautiful Pillow
you buy 6 skeins
Grand Prize Wash Embroidery Silk
or trated lesson for ZDC
fully illusPillow Top and Back are absolutely FREE. and
Six Skeins of
Mercerized Cotton Floss
BERNER'S ART STORE
TOUR CHOICE OF TWELVE DESIGNS
in the exact place you desire it.
THE BOTTLES ARE STERILIZED and rinsed with Katharos before being filled. NOTHING BENEFICIAL IS REMOVED by the process of purification. IS in which respect it is very unlike spring water.
due to the liberation of gas during the electrolytic action. the DIFFERENT. Clothes of the BETTER SORT of Clothing.
The Purest Water
Sold in Cleveland
Bacterial Tests Abundantly Prove the Truth of this Statement )
THE PROCESS OF PURIFICATION
necessary for the production of Katharos
the most advanced
to science. Pay as you can spare
it. then run a thread around the space you intend to cut. otherwise you may ruin your garment. at prices absolutely as low as at any cash store. IS AS AS DISTILLED WATER.
Cleveland. Springs situated in proximity to thickly populated districts are peculiarly liable to sudden contamination.— TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES. Ohio
. The volume of sickness traceable to SPRINGS is of vast proportions. over cast the edges then work with the button hole stitch (as per Lesson 24). It contains enough of the minerals and salts to make it the most healthful of drinking waters. then cut straight the slit to be worked. Boys and Children
HERE you'll find the NEW.
of the tonic values are lost.
2035 East 18th Street
Cent. Women.Clothes of Quality
A SQUARE DEAL
CWALLEY'S CREDIT STORE
424 Euclid Ave.— Unless you have tested your skill in making buttonholes it will be wise for you to practice until you are in a fair way to feel confidence in your ability. First mark the exact length of buttonhole you desire. which is best described as being pure until it is declared impure. Distinction and Style. but is much more palatable and tonic in its qualities.00
I'M THE MAN That'll Always Give You
KATHAROS HAS LIFE AND SPARKLE.
N ^r t
The Electra Pure Water Co. Ohio
and examine our Furniture and
HAVE YOU EVER INSPECTED OUR LARGE FURNITURE STORE?
filled. and in many instances a thread or ravelling drawn from the goods itself is preferable. Fasten the thread well on the under side by several over and over stitches. then begin on the cross wise threads and run over and under the lengthwise threads altering the over and under stitch.—
Lesson 30. Lesson 32. draw through cloth and bring thread loosely down to exact length desired. such as stiff paper
or thin oil-cloth.
The Henke Furniture
3001-3021 Lorain Ave. Then begin at the bottom of the threads and insert the needle under the loops and over the thread.. cor. In mending stockings a darning ball may be used. Always begin a little beyond the worn places so your stitches will hold.
Co. The darning thread to be used depends entirely
on the material to be darned. as it should match in color and quality.— Have button hole completed first. allowing the eye of the needle to pass under first. repeat three or four times or until you have thickness consistent with the weight of goods you are working on. DARNING. and run your thread exactly along the lengthwise thread of the garment. then measure exact place button is needed.
W. Fasten your thread with the over and over stitch. When the button is securely sewed on wind the thread a few times around under the button and fasten well on the under side of the garment.
Get acquainted with our stock and
things with which our store
Let us show you what beautiful pieces can be had for little money. Place button directly over mark or pin and bring up thread through holes of the buttons. leaving the thread moderately loose. LOOPS. 30th
. but in mending most materials. continue till loop is covered.— SEWING BUTTONS. they should be basted on a flat surface. then fasten well on under side. and mark either with a pin or with tailor's chalk.
and cut it so the weave comes exact with the place to be mended. Cut piece of the Havanco tissue the
of the piece of
lay a paper on cloth over
for stockings. PATCHING.
that can be
better with the
Tissue than with needle and thread.
HAVANCO MENDING TISSUE
The best thing for repairing bottoms of skirts and pants.
— Stoting. all and press with a warm flatiron.
not have the iron
to the by
. dry goods
druggists. On the right side cut out the worn or frayed part and make a small slit in each of the corners and turn down evenly the edges and sew down neatly on both sides of the garment. Same directions goods or other goods where part is worn thin and a patch
required. place piece of goods like garment under hole. or will of the price in stamps.
piece each of White. and useful for making many other kinds of repairs quickly
33. and patches can be put on and repairs made on a moment's notice by adhering to the following directions:
dust from garments. Baste patch on wrong side of goods. — Stoting
heavy goods. silk
goods and place it between the garment and the patch.
garments. a little larger than the hole. If possible have your patch of the same material.
send post paid upon the receipt
West Ninth Street
THE HALL-VAN GORDER COMPANY
mended without darning or
thread from the cloth
begun back from the rent and the
back and forth
taken until the tear has been closed.
Re-seating or repairing knees of boys' pants.
There are many materials such as rain-proof clothing or
kid gloves. OHIO
Garments repaired with Havanco may be washed and ironed but not Heat is the only thing that will affect it. and on a rent or cut
etc. also mending all kinds of rents in clothing..
The Ideal Patent
. while the ordinary fountain syringe has not enough force to it to dislodge germs. if
necessary. Can be used for everything a fountain syringe is used for. so long found inefficient and unsatisfactory. economical.. all that is required is to
drop your medicine onto this Sponge in the cup. Cleveland. The operator can use a pint or a gallon without stopping and at any force desired. A lady.
the goods are heavy and not
often washed. whereas with the Ideal Faucet Syringe you can obtain any desired force. no cumbersome water bags to get out of order. as there is no limit as to the supply of water. screw on cap and attach to end of rubber tube
before putting on the spray and then screw on
the vaginal pipe and the
whole stream of water is medicated with the
IDEAL FAUCET SYRINGE COMPANY
9601 Cedar Avenue. the overhand patch
put on the same as the
34). With this Ideal Faucet Syringe you can get the same results.
except that the patch
overhanded on the
and the underside neatly cut down
good seam and pressed..:
Lesson 35.. which is controlled by a valve.
which has and when
it. sanitary. will use the lawn hose with such force as to drive everything before it. It is the most simple. in washing off dirt from the porch. convenient. always ready. will last a life time.— OVERHAND
PATCH.. and the force of the stream can be regulated to suit the purpose for which it is used from a drop of water at a time to a pressure of 50 pounds.
Ackerman's Patent Ideal Faucet Syringe and Bath Spray
The most wonderful improvement ever made
. You can get any desired pressure or flow of water. It is entirely unlike the old style.-.
desired to use an antiseptic or sanative treatment in connection with a douche. perfect and effective syringe ever made. Ohio
in a syringe. clumsy fountain syringe.
Great care must be taken that the stitches are not too fine on tailored seams.— Cut
N. DOUBLE FOLD. Trim the under edge narrower than the outer. On heavy goods that do not ravel or fray out to press back the edge of the seam. and then turn under the edges of the fold and stitch with one or two rows of stitching.
obtained by folding on the selvedge or straight Folds and bands are used very neat trimming. Sew up the seam in any of the ordinary ways described in the preceding lesson. & N.
— CORDING. which is beautifully made
and ready for
Try Our Home-like Baking
QUALITY HAS BEEN OUR SUCCESS
the fold and sew neatly just below the cord.
an exactly even depth under the fold. or by making the felled or French seams. Seams can be joined by machine stitching.
the cord so
cannot become twisted and place
the exact center of
the fold. chain running stitch.
Cent. considerably on tailored suits. ends. such as binding or overhanding the raw edges. as they make a Cut your bias strips the desired easily made. 4679
Tables fnr Ladies
1022-1028 Prospect Avenue
Always the Same
CLEVELAND. FELLED SEAM.
your bias bands two and one-half times the width desired.
Lesson 42.Lesson 36. make a narrow turn up of the bottom edge and bring it up to cover the edge turned down. allowing only the edge of The piping may be lined or unlined. Take your bias band twice the desired width and fold so the edges come exactly together. and silk thread should always be used to join the seams of a garment made of wool goods.
Lesson 38. — Piping
folded in the center. With a narrow turning fold the broad edge over the narrow edge of the seam and hem either by hand or on machine. or back stitch or the edge when of material that does not fray can be left raw or pinked. and are width and join the diagonal
the material with the straight edge of the top lengthwise fold exactly. SEAMS. but the stitching must be very straight and very even.— BANDS
AND FOLDS. or they may be protected in various manners. When the fold is lined.— MILLINER'S
desired. Baste and sew on either by machine or by hand. and stitch on either side gives a very good finish.
the bias strip to emerge. the canvas is basted in and the edges of the fold fastened down with the catch stitch. Ask your dealer for the W. Fold over the top edge. and cutting diagonally. and is an easy manner of disposing of the tailored seams.
LAPPED SEAM. or W.— TO CORNERS. WELT SEAM. turn under exactly as for an ordinary hem. Trim evenly and narrowly.
Lesson 47. or running stitch on the right side of the garment. leaving just room enough to catch the stitches nicely. Lesson 45. For the ordinary hem begin by making a narrow turning. (See Lesson 5. Cut either bias or crosswise strips and turn under both edges and stitch over a plain seam. STRAP SEAM. and cut out the underlying corners. or hemstitch (see Lesson 17). linen or cotton. while in others a hem is joined to a lace or embroidery insertion by what is called a roll hem. This is one of the simplest manners in which to dispose
of a tailored seam. and overhand the end. binding turns itself so all you need to do is to fasten the binding on by hand or sew it down with machine.
using the damask hem. The edges of the goods to be bound should be evenly trimmed and the binding basted on the edges. being careful the stitches do not show through on the right side. Baste down then hem with slant stitch (see Lesson S). yet deep enough so the turning includes all the edges. & N. Then cut a strip of heavy paper or notch a piece of card board the exact depth you desire your hem and use this paper or card board for a marker. HEMMING. when hemming can be done on the machine as it saves the measuring and basting.
very simple. Lesson 49. and cut the material in the fold and hem
edges. — Table
linen can be very neatly
50.BELLE VERNON MILK
the Best Milk
Lesson 43.— Sew the seam by machine. Stitch near the edge of the upper lap and again one-half inch back.— THE BOUND SEAM.
finished take a moderately hot iron
51. Catch the overlap of the corners of the hem to the underlap.
Fold back the linen
with very fine stitches.— To hem square corners. Lesson 48.)
. Hems are made by turning the edge of the material twice in any suitable depth and the fold fastened down with the slant stitch or by hemstitching or in some instances the plain running stitch. turn garment and sew on wrong side taking seam of depth to entirely inclose the first seam. -Make a plain seam leaving one edge wide and one edge narrow. Lesson 44.
HEM. Lesson 46. — Is
insertion. The W.
goods toward you and turn neatly and begin at the right and sew insertion and material together with the slant stitch.
HEM. for your hem must be turned exactly even. or after turning the edges for the hem fold toward the center. A lap seam is as its name implies one seam lapping over another. Turn back the wide fold and baste down the narrow edge and stitch with one or two rows of stitching. & N.— The proper material for binding the edges of seams is bias bands of silk. Much time is saved however.—THE FRENCH SEAM. binding.
embroidery. Always draw the ends of the threads through to the underside of the garment and tie carefully. Hats. B. Use a bias band.
your goods into two or four even knot and use the simple running stitch. then heavy draw goods on gathering string into exact position desired. Waists. bias tape is most useful in innumerable instances. Dressing
Sacques. tucks by hand you must make a marker and fold exactly on the line and
sew down carefully
by machine or with running stitch. Children's Dresses. Place the right side of the facing against the right side of the goods and sew firmly with machine or by running stitch. embroidery. or the work will not look neat.
Lesson 55. Neckwear. or on a seam. Embroidery or lace may be used for facing on some articles by following the suggestion of cut which is done in the same way as the ordinary facing. House Gowns. And many styles of Pleat ings for Trimmings of Dresses. The White Sewing Machine is provided with a tucker with which you can easily both regulate your tucks and the space between the tucks. Facing of lace or embroidery around the neck or arm hole of sleeves is sometimes put on the right side making a trimming or finish.
Lesson 54. chiffon or any of If the ruffle is to be sheer materials.
N. Muffs.— Divide
accordion pleating.— SHIRRING. so it is not necessary But to make to baste in your tucks after a little practice on your machine. & N. a piece of goods cut either across or down the weave of the goods will do. unless you have a pleating machine of your own.—
RUFFLES. Where lace or embroidery must be joined in tucks sew the cloth so the seam will come in the fold of and under the tuck. Etc.
52. Etc. Turn and sew down either with machine or with slant stitch.
only you must always baste down your pleats.— Is simply from two to as many rows of gatherOn most materials it ing as desired. FACINGS. tape. TUCKS. can be done as successfully on the sewing machine as by hand and very
quicker. Fancy Waists. side pleating and sunburst pleating must be done
a pleating establishment. In this instance the edge of the embroidery or lace must be heavy enough to entirely cover the edge of the material of the garment.spaces. Street Dresses. lace. A first class sewing machine is provided with a tucker that can be gauged for any size tuck you desire.
be made of straight or bias goods.
PL E ATI N G
Accordeon Pleating and Side Pleating made in the newest effects for Party Costumes.
Lesson 56. In underwear the W.
— GATHERING. made of goods without a finished edge edge must be neatly hemmed the
Art Pleating Shop
438 Old Arcade
. Dancing Frocks. Maternity Dresses. lay a damp cloth over them and press so they will keep their fold nicely.
where hooks and eyes. quick. and cannot rust. of insertion. dresses. The White Sewing Machine has an attachment wherewith the hemming is done and the lace or embroidery sewed on with one operation. work a ruffle of lace or embroidery may be put on with the whip stitch (see Lesson 6). B. where an ordinary hook or buttonhole would be placed. (See Lesson 48). sew hook so often happens with the ordinary hook and eye. gentle
RememberZOA-PHORA Stomach and
gratifying results. snap fasteners or buttons can be used. On page 32. taking pains to catch through the narrow hem on the underside. turn hollow side
25 CENTS. you will find a cut of the Wilson Dress Hook and Eye. which is done exactly as overcasting.
not being properly digested and the
Liver refuses to work and the whole system becomes clogged with poison and you need a good. belts. to the necessary fullness and by placing the right side of the material and ruffle together and sewing firmly. Or again the ruffle may be inserted in the hem by placing the right side of the garment and the ruffle together and turn hem back to In very fine the wrong side of the garment.
AND LIVER PILLS and Effectual Remedy for
Biliousness. put the right side of the lace to the right If the machine is to be used put the edge side of the material and overhand.
KALAMAZOO. Lesson 59. Headache. children's garments or any purpose.
See page 96 for partial
list. undergarments. or with a piece of the W. and stitch on right side..— If the lace or embroidery is to be put on by hand. waists.
CO. Lesson 57. MICH.— SEWING ON HOOKS AND EYES. which we recommend for skirts. Props. Cut out goods Carefully baste down hem over edge leaving enough only for a narrow hem. or the ruffle may be sewed on the right side and covered with a bias band. of the wrong side of the lace or embroidery to the edge of the right side of the hem and stitch. N. and all Disorders Arising from a Sluggish Liver and Imperfect Digestion. For sale at all first-class druggists. Or the lace or embroidery may be set in by using the roll hem.— SETTING IN LACE OR EMBROIDERY. & N. make a second turning and hem. either by gathering (see Lesson 52). Lesson 58.Moth
71.— Baste the lace or embroidery on the right side in the exact position desired. They are flat and invisible and never slip open as To sew on.
have been used for over half a century with most
For habitual Constipation and Bowel Trouble use the ZOA-PHORA Anti-Constipation Pills. and if desired an edging may be sewed on either by machine The ruffle is attached to the garment or neatly overhanded (see Lesson 6). The Wilson Dress Hook and Eye is easy to hook and unhook.— SEWING ON LACE OR EMBROIDERY. bias tape..
navy. Lesson 60.
St.— MARKING OF LINEN UNDERWEAR. many prefer to use the feather stitch (see Lesson 18). fleeze lined and woolen underwear.
for $1. and sew the eye where an ordinary eye or button would have been placed. Every garment and piece of linen in your home should be marked.
form the distinctive mark which The Reis foundation washable letters
lends dignity to the or the Reis initial
medallions should always be used. light hlue Mark and can he had in several . s accident. They never wear out. The Warren Feather Bone for stays or collar supports can be stitched by machine into the lining of the article to be boned. by procuring the Reis woven names. in fact all laundered garments should be marked with the name or at
least the initial of the
of the family to
the article belongs.sewn to an
won't do for
garment. lingerie and handkerchiefs beautifully monogrammed or with carecuff. aprons and children's clothes. REIS
BRO. Lesson 61. as are the ordinary hook and fastener.
t'anilin. You can get these letters or monograms in nearly any shade or style and all you need to do is to baste them on your fabrics and work over them with your embroidery cotton or silk.25 IV arr-. REIS' WOVEN NAMES are machine woven <>n good quality white "a m hi ic tape in either red. ami will identify you in case of REIS' NAMES come in si jj.i
different style letters.75
If your dry p><<ds store cannot take youi orders send youi order with remittance direct to us..25 for 72
Plate-.toward the cloth and the straight edge toward edge of cloth.
Pa ere 28
. but a more attractive way is to use the catch stitch (see Lesson 11). besides being a substantial stitch to hold the boning secure.
Broadway and Bleecker
o^v/rv. woven initials made on woven tape which can be neatly overcasted on the inside of the garment.00 for 144 $1.
G. ami are easily cut apart anil .-
Printed from Engraved
Black on fine
will. which gives the inside of the boned' article a very pretty finish.
saves annoyance. in the most elaborate gowns. for they are perfect and durable and will stand the boiling and ironing of the laundry without being damaged in the least. as well as in the simplest. The stitch used is simply sewing over and over through the small round holes of the hook and eye. the hosiery.— PUTTING IN STAYS AND COLLAR SUPPORTS.
or the Reis
MARK YOUR GARMENTS WITH REIS' WOVEN NAMES
Vonr garments should hear your name. Men's shirts should be marked with an embroidered initial just above Linen.es for $1. However. The gauze. prevents loss by laundries and hotels..
very quickly and easily done.
On nearly all smart garments from the marquisettes and sheer chiffon and silks and dainty lawns to the heavier materials and all wash goods you will find at least a suggestion ranging from the pretty French knots and the simple outline and chain stitch following the simplest of patterns to the most intricate. etc. However should you prefer to have the embroidery done by more experienced fingers than your own or have not the time to devote on that part of the decoration of waist or gown you will do well to take it to your local embroiderer where the work will be done by trained hands who make a specialty
of lessons together with full directions for of embroidering.
We also make buttons of your own material. beautiful and elaborate creations. CJA11 you have to do is stick them on and work over with silk or cotton.— EMBROIDERY DESIGNS. Clair Ave.
to 2 p. The designs and stitches used will depend entirely upon the taste of the individual and the style and texture of
the garment. green. 10c.
navy. N. but
pretty AVERYon the fad
3 for 25c. Reis' Initials elimate all this work. and
Send or bring us that piece of Embroidery that you do not know how or have not the time to trouble to do.
Price. There is no trimming or ornamentation for waists. in all styles.. lavender and black. but
of the stitches ordinarily used will be found in this series
stamping and making the garment. Y.The Hawley
requires artistic ability and much to make an attractive design.
(Braiding and Embroidering)
Cleveland. white. St.
& BrOS. dresses or wash suits which meets the refined feminine approval more than embroidery designs.
initial sleeve or pocket of shirts.
ii red. embroidered initials are very beautiful.
Our experienced embroiderers can work out in perfect effects any design you may choose for any purpose Either machine cr hand work. 4th
426 ProspectCO. NECESSARY SEWING ACCESSORIES.)
38. The articles usually required are:
—Cutting Scissors — Button Hole Scissors
— — — 8— 9— Pins 10 — Tailor's —Tracing
Line Needles Thread. (See page 19— Dress Shields. see that you have the necessary accessories at hand with which to do your work. MACHINE Avenue Phones
CHAPTER XI. (See page 18— Trimmings. Rotary Shuttle
and "Sit-Strate" Machines.
the other hand do not attempt
to use a coarse thread in a fine needle or a fine thread in a large needle.
— Skirt Marker.
Before beginning the making of a garment. better and quicker it will do your sewing.
with ordinary care will last a lifetime so the greatest of caution should be used in selecting one. (See pages
40 and 41. (See page 16— Stiffenings 17 — Tape. shall be glad to show it up and let it speak for itself. hemstitch and in fact do nearly everything that the human fingers can do in this line and a wise woman will keep her attachments always on hand and use them whenever possible for they will save her hours of useless labor. reliable and reputable make can be purchased. or where a line of tucks or trimming is desired. provide yourself with a variety of sizes of cotton spool thread
Be sure and
. A modern machine is supplied with attachments that will hem. (See page 20— Boning. (Silk. gather. quilt. (Cotton) Thread. but
and a large spool of white basting thread and a spool of colored basting thread to use where it is not expedient to mark with a pencil or tailor's chalk. It is always a bad investment to buy an inferior. and ? learn how much easier.)
DON'T DO WHAT
Vibrator.Buy a Sewing Machine before you see the WHITE. (Basting) Thread. cheaply made machine when for the same money or a few dollars more a first class.
the thread should just pass easily through the eye of the needle. Your machine must be kept perfectly clean and well oiled and by keeping the tension adjusted just right you will not need to give it much further
attention. — Hooks and Eyes — Patterns 15 — Linings.)
of the greatest mistakes
the use of a needle that
too large and thread that
too coarse. (See page 21 — Dress Forms.)
36. see page 31D).
It's exclusively White.. on acproper texture. and yet the results will be disappointing.
silk will wash and wear without fading. then you'll need the WHITE. whereas a cotton or linen thread has no "give" or "stretch".
WHITE SEWING MACHINE
your dealer does not carry "Belding's." write tell you where you can get it.
BELDING BROS. consequently. they are always unsatisfactory and a garment not properly
. With it you can do work that can't possibly be done on any other machine. elasticity and fast color. and while embroidery silk more than cotton or any of the other substitutes. and
original shape. and so available only for White
at the value to
buyers. Great care may be used in selecting styles. a seam sewed with silk is infinitely stronger. the results to be obained will more than justify the difference in expense. etc. and so if you are progressive and desire to do your sewing under the most advantageous conditions. and that a yard of pure silk thread will stretch from two to three inches. is strong. lustrous and beautiful effect that cannot be obtained with any of the imitations or substitutes.
give that rich.
(D) most important
SEWING THREAD. & CO. smooth and elastic. cloth. no greater extravagence than to invest in a cheap worthless eye.
BELDING'S SEWING SILK
the finest quality of raw silk. trimmings.
not be generally known that silk is the strongest fiber known to mankind.
There hook and
(E) HOOKS AND EYES. count of its great strength. and made in every conceivable color and shade.DON'T GUESS
you as a Sewing Machine user of the White Tension Indicator but see it for yourself. Be sure to drop in and see it at first
opportunity. if the thread is not of the Silk thread is particularly adapted for seam making. will give to a stress.
the thread used in
sewing the seams.
J..N. and eyes.. lation to
They are truly a reve-
on Dress.** 198 St. Clair
provided you have not previously had a free card
Dress-hooks are guaranteed not to rust or crush in washing The Wilson and .
His Address. while others
L-oi.* invisible they never pull they do not leave the usual "bunch" which tells where other yf' Cleveland. Black and White colors. 10c several garments. Always Dress-hook Co. Can not catch on trimmings.
The Wilson Dress-hook Company
St. out beyond the edse and show.
brands of hooks and eyes
marks on your garment.
Ave.omng. So flat . No matter how loose or tight your garment. upstairs and
fix it. White)
Sold at notion counters everywhere (remember the orange and black card) Large and Small sizes. N.ClairAve.
best thing to do
This Embarrassment Can
Never Come to You if You Use
the hooks that can't "pop" open accidentally or allow the dress
and spread.E. neatly closed and perfectly flat if you use these un ique hooks Though you can unhook them with per.
. oard of one dozen. making them invaluable on wash garments.. Ohio hooks are sewn..
for Wilson Dress-hooks
Black.. free. snap fasteners or buttons. .'ilson
pppp H E» d
Out This Coupon
not go through the
pieces. card Wilson Dress-hooks.
women accustomed to troublesome hook-. Outwear Tlense send.
Wilson Dress-hooks. Gray. the back is always smooth.
you have a brand that
will not rust
hold your garment
recommend and use in our demonstrations the Wilson Dress Hook and Eye. to the style
book and pat-
Naiad Dress Shields Warren 's Featherbone Wilson's Hooks and Eyes
Embroidery Foundations Coat Fronts. the quality of thread.
finds here the newest of cloths..
place. because we make a specialty of all the little the linings and findings.
at hand. which we find is always reliable and satisfactory and costs no more than any other good fastener.
Co. shields and dozen other seemingly trifling details. silks
And. Coat Pads. but the finish of lining.
tern. all the best of such are here. the kind of hook and eyes.
. Shoulder Forms and Bust Forms The Ladies' Home Journal Patterns
Specialists in Dressmakers'' Supplies
'"THE BEST DRESSED
and making of their
most often those who
take the keenest interest and pleasure in the small details
and pleasing assortments.
importance of the little things not only the quality and style of fabrics.
Satin. No fabric will wear as well as a pure dye silk fabric. & CO.Belding's Pure
NEW YORK CITY
LININGS. on account of the practice of adulteration or weighting.
select silk linings that will
reliable. cloak or garment. some of the most reliable silk manufacturers are weaving their names in the selvage of the lining as a guarantee of wear.
and accept no substitute.
you are assured of a If your garment
does not require a
or satin lining.
satisfactory lining for your suit. In order to overcome this difficulty.
every yard guaranteed to give satisfactory wear.
most beautiful of
for lining purposes. for the average person to
wear well. you should take into consideration the
HEXTER'S LINING STORE
Dress Makers' Supplies
"Everything for your Dress but the Goods
Euclid Avenue Entrance
effect in the lining of a coat
just as essential to
have a satisfying
Unless you are an experienced designer. as it eliminates the endless preliminary fittings.. have hooks and eyes in the back or front. which is ready for use without having the trouble of cutting. for often you can save a yard or so of goods or save yourself from running short of material. Belching of Gas.
327-329 East 34th
St.FITTED WAIST LININGS
is considered one of the most important inventions of the present time. \J XV A
For Indigestion. /A / \ ± ±J.
weight. but you may rest assured that the new. Always select a pattern exactly your own size don't get one a size too large or a size too small. cutter and fitter never attempt to make even the plainest garment without a pattern. according to sty!e. putting on hooks and eyes and finishing. this affords easy ripping if a fitting is necessary and all the fitting is done at the upper part of the waist in all instances. for if you do so you will take every chance of making a complete misfit of your garment. With every Pictorial Review Pattern you will
Cutting Guide show-
ing exactly how to lay on your goods to the best advantage and how to guard against making any mistakes in cutting. fitting. Every person should buy one of grey percaline fitted to herself. boning. To all those who have not tried them it seems impossible.
. as new linings are constantly coming into fashion. illustrating precisely how to put the garment together. where a fitted lining is not desired the Grean Invisible Net Foundations will be
to you. white and grey percaline. which dressmakers at home. and you will need to be informed as to the best. The cost of a pattern is so small and the help they give so great that you cannot afford to take chances of wasting your goods without a pattern to guide you. or if it is a light weight waist.
Grean Shoulder Form
& Pad Company. Sour Risings. or professional have to suffer before they attain the result which you obtain in a ready made Grean Fitted Waist Lining. so with this Manual of Sewing and Dress Making and a Pictorial Review Pattern. overcomes all obstacles. Pain or Distressed Feeling in the Stomach. Bloating. asking them to show you their newest and most appropriate linings for the
purpose which you desire. Be careful and purchase the exact size or exactly what your measure is around the waist and you will have a good fitting lining. you will find it easy to cut and fit and make any garment you may desire. and in white and black Corsica silk.
y (^ jTV " pTTfvn l\. Heartburn. the seams are very loosely stitched. Dyspepsia. If you are lining a waist that needs a fitted lining. and all Disagreeable Symptoms arising from a Disordered Stomach. quality and texture of your material and go to a reliable lining store. and have it stuffed up for the purposes of having her own figure for fitting 75c and draping in the workroom. but simple principle which is embodied in the Grean Waist Linings. They are made in linolawnblack. They are all finished. much time can be saved by using the Grean Fitted Lining. finish it. write us today ana we will supply you direct or give you of a reliable dealer who handles our line. but above the boned portions and on the shoulders. Always get your pattern before buying your goods if possible. There is also a Construction Guide. by knowing exactly the
amount to make the article in question. boned.
(G) PATTERNS. the If your dealer cannot supply you. Nausea.
in highest grade
in. while on your skirts your seam must be bound. 4 widths (5-16 in.
"W. showing colors. 13 widths Pure Linen and
usefulness. also in India Linon." Bias Seam Tape
INDISPENSABLE IN THE SEWING ROOM
Saves half the work making a garment. for the binding around the neck and armholes and many other purposes.
Wm. For the waist you will need it in many instances.
almost impossible to make any article of wearing apparel without tape. wide). & N.
TRADE MARK REGISTERED
AT ALL DEALERS
article for piping. widths
quality of materials. Silk.
a necessity in the
home sewing room.
. and for this
"W." Bias Seam Tape Are you taking advantage of its
Cambric and Lawn.
& Sons Co.
40 Lispenard St.
reference book free. for the support for the hooks and eyes. finishing or
binding seams on
for fagotting. to }A in.
which is ready for use and turns itself so the edge is always neat and even. On your underwear you will need it to bind over your embroidery ruffles.
tOnOVer LO. you will see this tape neatly put on with the tiniest of slant stitch making a support just below the scallop of the embroidered edge and you will find it most satisfactory to follow their example. instead of facing. Bias Seam Tape. & N.
.I!. It does not deteriorate with age and fall to powder in the dress can
be easily and quickly sterilized by immersing
water for a few seconds only. On the Parisian lingerie.N. And then too. Added to these the fact that an unreliable shield will not wash and cannot be kept sanitary makes it imperative to procure a good reputable shield that can be relied upon to protect your gown or jacket. and when you have an embroidered edge to your garment as seen in Lesson 79. you will find that a support of the W.
protecting your garments
The Crowning Attribute
NAIAD DRESS SHIELD
POSSESSES two important and exclusive features.
Manufacturers. 101 Franklin St. there is an odor from the rubber of the cheaper shields that is very offensive to a refined woman.
sample pair on receipt of 25
f* T* /"* t.
DRESS SHIELDS.Y. We use in our demonstrations and always recommend the Naiad Dress Shield. Narrow Bias Seam Tape means an additional wear of many months. & N.
from perspiration be sure and select a cheaper shields on the market today are anything but satisfactory and the ruined waists showing the stains just below the shields are a result of their use. which nothing in the world of the kind can rival in daintiness and beauty..—
purpose no tape answers so well as the W..
(The Perfect Boning)
and leaded dress weights
that they are
subject of boning can be quickly disposed of.
collar-sets. collar-foundations. giving permanent shape
To bone a waist
requires less than 10 minutes
our Instruction Booklet with attachment for machine
When buying waist-bones. as best known and most reputable boning on the market.(J)
BONING. collar-bones. for all tailors use only the Warren Feather Boning. Girdles and Collars
on by machine holds the place. Michigan
form. If you are
The Wonderful Pneumatic Dress Form
First Class Stores
is the easiest and handiest dress form the world to manipulate. but to save yourself the time and the tediousness of trying on your gowns. It relieves you of tiresome standing hour after hour for fittings. serves for any number of persons by simply changing the waist lining. and enables you to study your own form while
you work upon your own garments.
you simply inflate it inside your fitted waist lining and before you stands YOU shoulders.6th St.
. Write today for new illustrated booklet' "It's You. near
Nothing so good for skirt
this little box
DRESS FORMS. not only as a means to secure correct and perfect lines and insure a well fitting garment..
557 Fifth Ave.
Pneu Form is mounted on an adjustable standard
rod which may be raised or lowered to the exact height desired. For waist. One Pneu Form." Edition H-I.
To make Pneu Form
perfectly. bust and hips with looking glass
fidelity. containing full
you do your own dressmaking or have it done at your home you should by all means provide yourself with a Dress Form. nothing can possibly take the place of Pneu Form. skirt and dress making and fitting or for dress repairing at home. It is the practical invention of a woman and consists of a nonleakable air chamber made of specially prepared
and well covered rubber
and will last a lifetime. $3. main floor.00
Pictorial Review Pattcis 10c & 15c
EAGLE STAMPS FREE with
. have a dress form by all means buy it at The May Co. tiresome fittings you change position so often that you are liable to change your lines. If you sew. $12.e sewing room as the Sewing Machine. for during the tedious. hips. waist. With a dress form which reproduces your own lines perfectly you will be able to get a better fitting garment than if it was tried on yourself. $1.50.00. and get the benefit of Notion Dept. can be adjusted at neck. conforming to any size or shape desired.
Hall-Borchert's complete correct Model Adjustable Form is in every way up to date.
Correct model bust and dress forms at $1. and
YOUR VERY IMAGE
and proportions can be reproduced with a
Hall-Borchert and Majestic
Perfect Fitting Dress
Every style included Adjustable and Non-Adjustable— of which we show a large variety for every purpose and figure.50.00. Dress forms are now considered just as necessary just as indispensable to equipment of t .00. Skirt can be adjusted to any style and can be raised or lowered
skirt length. Shears and Tape Measure. $8.making your own gowns there is no way without assistance that you can fit yourself without a Dress Form. $2. saves time and annoyance and its cost
times over. $5. $10. Euclid. simply and durably made.50. these economical prices.
—of trying to see
how your back or how
by the use
the skirt hangs with the aid of a looking glass need no longer trouble you if you have a Dress Form of your exact figure.00. etc. and the fit of your garment is of far more importance than the quality of the material.
a Dress Form of proper size and shape to aid you the form is always ready..00. stands without tiring.
most inexpensive gown can be made attractive with well selected trimming. colorless complexion must always study the trimmings and adornment of their costume and some bright color. bands and special trimmings. Dress Forms made and your dealer will gladly demonstrate them to you. should usually be chosen. and which is impossible to get when you fit yourself We show two of the most reliable reputable without one of these forms. A person with a dull. When you have a gown or suit that needs trimming.
fitted in the old.
All first-class dressmakers desirous of
saving their customers' time.
as well. tedious
DRESS TRIMMINGS. that a harmonious. are supplied with a dress
today has neither the time or the patience to be manner. One can always procure such a variety of silks. suitable and desirable effect can be obtained. but take a sample of your goods and go to a first-class dress trimming establishment and ask to be shown suitable trimmings for your goods and often you will find something new and attractive that in the ordinary way would have escaped your atten-
entirely. if only a dash of it.
form. laces. braids.
COVERED tooR DE R
Second Door East
. You should secure a Dress Form before attempting to make any of the up-to-date gowns. do not go to the first store you happen to pass and take anything that may be presented to you.
Cleveland Dress Trimming
4 6 Euclid Ave.the entire
ruined. whose beauty depend so much upon the graceful lines.
most highly recommend the
notch at the right place on
making a placket. The bottom of the placket must be made secure on the under side. upper fold.
F. reference will be made to the specific lesson treating of
that particular subject instead of repeating the
and over again.
The mark which reveals the inexperienced or careless sewer is more quickly and more likely to be seen in the finish of the placket than in any other part of your garment. unless perhaps.
your placket opening down exactly the right length.CHAPTER
VII. Do not do it carebut see that your pattern is laid on correctly and pinned securely and that you cut accordingly. C.
In the following lessons we teach you the right way of making each part of a garment and in the succeeding lessons whenever that portion of the article is to be made. that you do not opening of the plackets. it be in the making of the buttonholes.
same general instructions over seeking information and also taking
SENSIBLE PLACES TO LUNCH
328 Euclid Ave. Wilson Hook and Eye. Don't have it too long nor yet so short an opening that you immediately tear open the placket.
M. The following rules must be observed.
your placket binding exactly after your pattern.
careful in picking up your skirt.
11 to 2
813 Prospect Ave. just far enough the garment. or in trying
belt. Your skirt will never fit smoothly across the back of the hips if you do. Kirby Building MAIN 1565
Lesson 63. both edges of the opening must be faced. (Lesson the eyes sewed on the under facing and the hooks on the facing of the 53). Stretching these edges means always a full baggy look.
lessly. confusing the one who is up valuable space with unnecessary repetitions.
only the best of hooks and eyes.
it on.— PLACKETS.
every stitch that shows through on the right side be
If desired the belt or band can then be entirely stitched around. 3 With boning above and below the belting to form a pointed bodice
into shape. A trial will convince you of
merits. 2j^ inches wide and fitted by gusset seams and boned
BELTS AND BANDS. but a peplum is much easier especially to fit. Turn the top of the folded edge toward the garment and stitch. 2 With bones ejecting above the belting. Ohio
Lesson 65. for ordinary belting.
leading druggists or mailed to you receipt of 50 cents.'V K
Safe Reliable Effective
Cleansing. If double.
object of the bone above the belt
loose linings as
of the material can be draped or attached to boning. 64. If the belt or band is faced sew the straight strip and the facing together and proceed the same as directed above.A.^.— YOKE AND PEPLUMS— A yoke is a very particular part of a garment to make. the Grean Co.— BELTS AND BANDS.band may be of one piece be of one piece lined or faced. Healing and Soothing Antiseptic Ever Used for a Douche for Practically All Female Weakness
Sanar can be used without fear of injuring the* most delicate or affected tissues as it does not smart or burn and is highly recommended by many of the most eminent physicians in this country. especially as wide belting shrinks from one to three inches to the ward. which is a feature not to be overlooked in wash dresses. For this purpose wide belting is used.
For the Use
A A K^ C* A\ T\T l\ T"} ^ AA.^XA.
Married Lady Should Be Without This Wonderful Antiseptic
746 Euclid Avenue
CO.— The belt or
However. A peplum is used instead of a belt or band or draw string to hold down at the waist and
. for the draping of waists. cut a straight piece double the width desired. Turn over the under edge and hem down to cover the seam on the inside of the garment. Skirts and dresses at present are made with high belt. have improved this method by offering a seamless shaped belt thoroughly shrunk. You can get the Grean Belt in three distinct styles: 1 Having bones as wide as the belting.
— — —
Cut out (Lesson
across the chest in wrinkles
out from under the
too loose in
the neck and across the chest take up the
under the arms. Opposite New Market
Sew up seams
by machine or by hand (Lesson
— attach collar (Lesson 66 or 68).
All alterations for the neck
seam both on the shoulders and must be made from the shoulder
seams only. Rugs.
be entirely done from the shoulder seams
of the yoke must
and the small space of the under arm seams.
cases a yoke must be most carefully
76). peplum — gather the waist or corset cover
the yaist line
and put on
you were attaching.
Care must be taken that the peplum
draw up and wrinkle.
are as represented"
A GREAT STORE
Prices Always as
Lower Than Elsewhere
proper position the gathers of the corset cover or waist.
fitting of the
adjustments must be made at the joining
You should be
sure the pattern
waist before using.
a part of the
peplum must be exceptionally well
of the fashionable waists of today the
Men's coats are never and invariably made in
either black or grey cloth.
unless you are experienced in tailoring.
. Attach lining of collar to right side of garment and sew down by machine. Accept no
imitations or substitutes. 9.'
Grean Shoulder Form
327-329 East 34th Street. 5.
Lesson 67. taking care the stitches do not show
through. 10. We will supply you direct or through a reliable dealer and send you a catalogue of other dressmaking helps. so best to buy the under collars ready made.— Cut out (Lesson 76). 6.
collars are rather difficult to
1. Baste in soft pliable French canvas after you have carefully shrunk it. Grean for those who find it difficult to shape an<^ ma ke the under-collar. 2—Turn seams around lining should be of cambric — Hem down with slant
necessary for the material which you are using.
//-^^\ A /i'/""" /A
2. write us. in collar supports (Lesson 60). turning under the edge and carefully overcast (see Lesson 6). 3.'
. Sew around the bottom edge and the sides and turn right side out.— TAILORED
COLLARS.in its proper place. 8. Large stitches and an uneven turn of the material of the collar would ruin the appearance of the most beautiful suit. for the canvas cannot be sewed in the seam with the lining without making it a little bunglesome. stitch. so the canvas will keep . cutting it out the seam's width from the edges. designed by Mr.'
perfect cut of tailored collars
figure. You will find Orean Tailor Made Coat Collars beautifully shaped and pressed. on hooks and eyes (Lesson 59). being careful to keep the goods and the canvas and the lining always perfectly smooth.
— Sew —Sew —Sew
on all trimmings and ornaments.--V/
. It is not necessary any more to make collars of cloth to match on the
. Press very carefully. Catch the edges of the canvas to the cloth with the catch stitch (see Lesson 11). Then bring the outside material of collar neatly and smoothly down. Sew on trimming. Lay right side of goods to right side of lining and baste. but if you wish to try to them yourself the following instructions should be followed:
Cut out exactly after pattern.
. If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealer's.
lining. taking great pains that your stitches do not show any more than you can help and that you have entirely covered the seam of the underpart of the collar and that you have kept an even line.
so. Press again.
under side of edge of and hem down neatly to cover
abilities.YOUR CHARACTER SKETCH SCIENTIFICALLY GIVEN
By the Expert and Noted Character Readers
College of Science
— Incorporated under the laws of Ohio 1907
6 If collar is to be left separate turn inside edges and neatly stitch or sew down by hand. most pliable French canvas and baste it smoothly on the wrong side of the
out (Lesson 76). business. using the fine
(Lesson (Lesson 5).
The Acme College
Your character sketch
stated and any questions scientifically and answered by mail.
If stiffening is necessary use cambric or the finest.
America. perfectly Strictly confidential.
are found throughout
turn right of lining to
The only incorporated College of Our students and satisfied patrons the United States and Europe. softest.
stitch. Price $1.— TURN
and your physical condition correctly diagnosed..
but for garments where a permanent and a good shoulder They add a perfect outline to all shoulders. High. to the heaviest automobile and fur garments. Grean has designed special shoulder forms for different weight of garments from the lightest weight silk and taffeta. They fit is desired. 1Take a straight strip of the material.
and tack again where the
being most careful to have the notches come exactly together.
15c Per Pair
Shoulder forms are made in different outlines. as to what to use.
notch where the fullness begins in the sleeve and turning the right of
the sleeve to the right of the cuff tack to the notch in the
— For No.
See Cutting Guide. page 51. (Lesson 2— Baste up seams. bottom of 6— Find the
3. (Lesson 53).
327-329 East 34th St. 4 Hem. inside the coat. are basted to canvas and you wA\ save a number of hours of alterations. The ordinary lap closing is made the same as the lap pocket. not noticeable. the bottom
— — — —
Lesson 70. but much of the difficulty is removed if proper care is taken in observing the
structions and paying strict at-
tention to the
edges of other side. and fitters must use their judgment. 3 Sew up seams on machine and press.PATENTED SHOULDER FORMS
Shoulder Forms are used not for disfigured shoulders. and Sloping. Baste to cover seam and sew either by hand or on machine.
76). or face. Straight.
of the sleeve or cuff. (Lesson 48). 2 Baste
down evenly and sew on machine.— Follow
69). if you will begin to fit by first placing the shoulder form in suchposition as you would like to have your coat appear. lay right side against right side
sleeve.— SLEEVES. 10 Sew in securely on machine. pliable.
Grean Shoulder Form
Pad Co.. and Construction Guide.
starts. 7 Baste together cuff and sleeve and sew in securely on machine.
— Cut out.— SHIRT
WAIST SLEEVE. and some are not. thin.
except the opening of the sleeve where cuff is attached must be faced back.
ends. 9 Attach where notches of waist designate. Some are padded. Mr.
. Many beginners think sleeves are the hardest part of the garment to put together. 8 Gather top of sleeve between exact notches.
(Lesson 77). page 54.
used always by
ever tried it.
simpler as steps
exactly according to instructions of Lesson 69. the bands are cut double width and turned back and hemmed over the seam which joins cuff and sleeve. but outside of seam.. except that the top of the flat coat sleeve.— LAP
cover seam. turning the top
either with perfectly square corners or in a neat
shape. The latter is much neater and gives a more tailored finish the top piece of the cuff is sewed into the seam.
E. It is very simple in construction. write us and we will either your order or direct you to a reliable merchant.
3. 2— lined turn right side of lining to right side of goods and stitch sides and bottom of 3 — Turn right side out and stitch again at the very edge of the —Attach as step 6 (Lesson 69)..
lap closing as seen in sleeve No. designed for the purpose of correcting the general hollow parts between the Arm Hole and the Bust. 34th St. and put on edge of pressing board. and seven are omitted.
are completed before attaching to sleeve.
upper lap sew on
same manner. but instead of facing.—
Lesson 71. Stitch your goods well over it.
For this purpose the sleeve roll of the Grean Dressmaking Specialties will be found very useful. or you may — Attach sleeve to lining of the cuff and turn back right edge of cuff and
—Cut two straight strips. requires a little soft foundation.
Cuffs are put on the
Waist). COAT SLEEVE.
except your cuffs are either are attached at the bottom of the cuffs
the material is soft you can press out the material is hard or harsh. which is so much in vogue now. underlap put right side of strip to right side of sleeve 3 — Turn back and stitch by machine on both sides of strips.
belonging to the sleeves are sometimes a
of the fullness than
Combination Arm Pad.
your dealer cannot supply you.—
Make exactly the same as for shirt made of double length to turn back or
instead of at the top. put damp cloth over and hold down firmly until you have pressed out all the superfluous
Grean Shoulder Form
Co. Baste inside of the sleeve.
— Cut out exactly after pattern.
CUFFS— PLAIN BAND.
stitch. but a few suggestions mill
awkward for the to make them.
The lap must be cut on an exact grain of the goods and should be lined with silk or some light material. but restores the
parts to healthy action. Cough. SoreThroat.
slit from tearing into the cloth. together with the use of certain remedies in the treatment of the disease.
the pouch into the
lap. Penhad been a careful student of its nature. is the only one very much in evidence these days.
ZOA-PHORA COLD REMEDY
improves the sight and hearing-
storing the impaired
effect is the clearing of the head. Hem tops and turn in bottom and both sides and stitch on garment.
book. The most trifling exposure renews the attack. back and limbs sometimes with chilly sensations and nausea— will almost invariably meet and control the disease. These investigations. thus preventing a tedious and perhaps dangerous illness. Sewing Apron pockets are made in the same way. been made at the bottom and both sides of the lap. symptoms. if taken promptly on the first signs of the disease— known by aching of the head.
Zoa-Phora La Grippe Remedy
first invasion of the disease known as LaGrippe in this country. pain in the temples." More suffering comes from neglected colds than from all other causes. is very simple to make. back stitch the pouch into the slit of the garment. Pengelly's Sure Shot)
Colds. except that their outer edge is usually joined in the facing or with the seam of the ruffle.
now justly famous ZOA-PHORA LaGRIPPE REMEDY. Croup and Protection Against Pneumonia
An old proverb says: "Never neglect a fresh cold if you would avoid sickness. It does not operate on the douche principle
merely drying up and washing out the secretions. Dr. A speedy and safe cure is invaluable.Lesson 73.— Persons suffering thus are martyrs to every change of weather. Pengelly was led to formulate force on the weaker parts. headache.
blurred eyes. sore throat
or nostrils. which treatment. cough. The lap pocket as shown in the figure of the coat in Lesson 96.
Zoa-Phora Cold Remedy
(Formerly Dr. brow or cheek. Dr. convinced the Doctor that LaGrippe was (from whatever inducing cause) a sudden and general congestion attacking more or less the whole system. tightness at the root of the nose. and_ revoice. etc. and at the same time increasing the severity of the usual symptoms. letting the needle pass through the entire thickness After a row of stitching has of threads from the bottom mark to the top. A NEGLECTED COLD. it should be fastened as Measure one-eighth inch above and one-eighth below the slit and mark.
Price 50c per bottle
The Zoa-Phora Cold Remedy and the Zoa-Phora LaGrippe Remedy
are for sale at 50c per bottle at alllfirst-class drug stores. The patch pocket. Repeat this process until you have firmly secured the slit— then bring the thread through and work over and over. The pocket should be of heavy mercerized goods made into a pouch the desired
depth. viz. dullness of hearing and smell. and results.
. hut showing its greater From these deductions. as seen in Lessons 87 and 107. throat. and stitch on the lap. rendering the disease still more difficult to treat.: Sneezing. Such you have in Zoa-Phora Cold Cure. Then draw your thread from the top mark in a straight line to the bottom mark and back again on the opposite side of the goods.—POCKETS.
lint and germs. Wool goods should nearly always be sponged and shrunken as should ginghams and linens. Shino Chemical Floor Polisher. as the result of a marvelous chemical process. have a hot flat iron conveniently near. but prevents its spotting and wrinkling so much.Shino Dust Absorbing Articles
Reduces the Labor of Dusting and Polishing One-half.
Sweeney Ave. garment to hold its shape better. An electric flatiron is a great advantage to the woman doing her own dressmaking.— SPONGING AND SHRINKING. or sent postpaid by the manufacturers.
Shino articles. Shino Chemical Dust Mop. attract dust. If you are not good at pressing it would be best to baste back your seams in their exact place until you get more accustomed to pressing them in place. In pressing folds always see that the fold is perfectly straight. Always have a good piece of cotton long enough to cover the entire seam. Lesson 75. least once. linens should be dipped in water in which has been placed a handful of salt. and in pressing sleeves one should shrink considerable of the fulness that is apt to occur on the inside seam of the arm
at the elbow. This is a slow process. while a poor presser can make the most carefully put together garment look badly. for a good presser can straighten out a multitude of little defects in sewing and stitching.
. with dust.
Lesson 74. especially anything with a mesh. Cleveland. Dampen and iron till the cloth is perfectly dry then dampen once again and repeat the pressing. to. Shino Chemical Mitten Duster. rinsing in warm water good as new. Wool goods should be laid right side down and a wet Repeat at ironing sheet placed over it and ironed until it is perfectly dry. Much of the beauty of a gown depends upon its pressing.— PRESSING.
The The The The The The The
Shino Chemical Dust Cloth. Very thin goods should not be sponged Sponging not only helps your or shrunken.
just as a magnet attracts steel. but your goods will Ginghams and stay fresh and in shape long enough to pay for your trouble. but twice is better. Ohio
f*. always remembering it is almost impossible to put too much good press work on a garment. wring out and then press until dry. Simplex Mop Handle. Shino Chemical Broom Cover. Shino Chemical Handle Duster. especially in making a wool garment. but in case one is not at hand one must always.
No chance of cutting two backs or two fronts because a careless folder picked up two pieces instead of one. E. just as an expert would lay it out in order to cut it from the least possible material. It shows just how to lay out the pattern on the goods correctly and scientifically.
CUTTING.— CUTTING GUIDE.Main
SEWING MACHINE SUPPLIES AND REPAIRS
For prices on any Sewing Machine or Supplies PHONE or CALL on
Expert Repairer will Call and Give Estimate
1 Before beginning see that you have every thing necessary to go ahead. No chance of wasting an inch of material
mistakes.. and no Mistakes are impossible with this guide before you. 823 Superior N. (See Department 6).
CUTTING GUIDE 4069
more than you
54 INCH MATERIAL WITHOUT
need. One accompanies every Pictorial Review pattern.
cutting guide a child
Review Patterns are error proof and with can lay out and cut a garment as well as an expert. Pictorial Review Co. There is absolutely no chance of cutting one piece the wrong way of the goods.
. we show their patent cutting guide.
courtesy of the
SIDE 6ftCK C^
puzzling for hours to find how to lay out the pattern properly.
and one chosen with due regard for the material to be made up and for the occasion of the wearing of the garment.M. M.with a good paper pattern for your size and suitable to height and individuality. but get your own size otherwise the entire proportion of your garment
style. to 2 P. 622 Prospect Avenue
i==i r=i i=
and Most Elaborate Chinese-American Cafe
No. M. Do not make the mistake of buying a pattern a size too large or a size too small.M.
After Theatre Parties a Specialty
Special Attention Given Ladies without Escorts
for Inspection to Patrons
from 11:30 A.
thrown out when you
. 9— When absolutely sure every piece
careful to have
Merchandise that bears the Stamp of Quality. 4 Iron out every piece of your pattern and identify each section and if there is any doubt in your mind compare it with the similar piece on the construction guide.
proceed to baste together as
furnished free with every Pictorial
pattern. This is of vital importance to the success of your garment.
cording to the construction guide. 5 If the garment has a lining cut the lining out first.
UnlO LakeWOOd. 6 Follow exactly the construction guide for laying on your pattern which you have altered to fit your figure. goods are 7 When the width of the goods will permit lay the pattern on the double
fur or plush.
. Striped or plaid materials must be perIf the fectly matched so the strips run into the seams on the same angle. at prices that are no more and often less than elsewhere
. and will save you many possible
— 8— Pin down the pattern. 10 Then with tailor's chalk or with a colored cotton thread run a line showing all the marks and perforations of the pattern. baste it up and make all necessary alterations of the pattern (Lesson 77). then
A RELIABLE STORE
The Boston Dry Goods
8813-17 Wade Park Avenue 13592 Euclid Avenue 8601 Detroit Avenue
14712 Detroit Avenue
properly laid on cut out with very sharp shears so the goods are not frayed or haggled and under no circumstances fail to cut out every notch indicated on the pattern. The nap should always rub down except velvet. flowered or have a design see that it all runs in the same direction. See that every piece is on precisely the
your material as designated on the construction guide. for preparation.-.
should rub up. until you have made sure what it is and where it belongs. being most wrinkles either pattern or goods.your goods are wool or gingham or such as need attention follow directions (see Lesson 74). and fit it perfectly
before cutting into the dress goods. and if your goods have a nap very strict attention must be given that the grain or nap lie in the same direction.
according to waist measure. #100 down and $10 month buys a lot 40x125 for $750. Do not attempt to put your garment together without this construction guide. to be guided by the waist and not by the bust.
made with a wide. beauboned. hours of time. 121. or through a reliable
dealer. specially for the summer or for warm climates. write us.
Williamson Bldg. 122
If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealers. putting on the hooks and eyes. and needs to be fitted only by adjusting the seams above the boned portions and on the shoulders. These are made in Black and White. It
improvements are being and homes erected."
"VOTES FOR WOMEN
are not so necessary as
Are used in making light weight lace or chiffon waists where a t ght-fitting lining would be out of place... constantly before you for it
CONSTRUCTION GUIDE 44JQ
plainly which pieces to join together and just where to join see that the notches correspond and that the seams are taken up on exactly the line shown and that each portion of your goods is in ar-
them. Grean System of Fitting. and the upper part of coarse Net which forms just the right kind of a foundation for light waists.
327-329 East 34th Street. Take Euclid Beach Car to Beach Grove on Lake
Cen. But if you decide to make your own lining or foundation the following directions must be carefully followed. get
at East 152nd St. FITTING AND ALTERATION. boning. which protrude above the belting and are finished with hooks and This is the new eyes.
Grean Shoulder Form
Co. or the one accompanying your pattern.
show you Always
Lesson 77. making of waists. work and worry can be avoided by procuring the Grean Fitted Waist Linings and Foundations as it saves all of the labor of cutting basting. We will supply you direct.— CONSTRUCTION.
With a great many Rotary machines in order to remove the Shuttle one has to use a screw driver and take out three screws. If the garment has a lining.
handy tool to have around. but naturally.. Black or White
DRIVER. put it together and fit it. The greatest of care should be taken in the basting up of the seams of your garment. for the effect lies in perfect lines and it is impossible to obtain these without good basting.
426 Prospect Ave. for it takes time.
Sizes 22 to 33 inclusive Waist Measure. and make See cut 4410. We shall be glad to demonstrate it at
rpT?T T TIVT/^'C
French . but with the White you simply
raise a latch. cut it out. all necessary alterations before cutting into the dress goods.«e
White Sewing Machine Co.
For Unlined Waists and Dresses
Grean Shaped Seamless..
Don't forget it! The White Rotary means more to you in a sewing way than you can think. you don't care to use it unnecessarily.
another time saver which
busy operator will surely appreciate.American
cordance with the diagram of your construction guide.
Dr. Bell South 188-L Off. Margaret B.
302 Lennox Building
Treatments by Appoin tmen t
Res. Bell Main 3938
Oct. the necessary width.
alter. If the hips are too small. Electric Light and Shower
West Side Branch
Franklin and W.If garment wrinkles. Begin six inches below the waist line.
Apply to the
Exercise and Recreation
Christian Association Prospect Avenue and 18th
Cleveland. Begin six inches below the hip line and decrease the width of the seam. If the hips are too large. Begin six inches below the hip line and gradually take up the seam. and its length adjusted from the bottom or six inches below the hips. and gradually slant to meet the side back seams. and the same general instructions apply. except the front and the front edges of the side gore seams. alterations must be made from the shoulder seams and arm hole. Begin six inches below the waist line and increase seam gradually until the correct size is obtained about the waist. however. 32nd
Lake Grove Farm
a hygenic and than absolutely
necessary. extending each gore an inch at the top. and let out gradually the seams the deIncrease also the side sired width. than to alter the back of the skirt any more
the back seams. that it is better to take up fullness as possible. To alter for large abdomen.
— — —
Turkish. you will then be ready to cut into your dress goods. between shoulders or across chest or at neck or armhole. for if too tight the skirt will wrinkle and draw. Or if skirt must be enlarged at waist. To take up skirt at waist. Ohio
. Then follow the specific instructions of the lesson. Begin at the same point six inches below the waist and decrease the size of the seam.
two inches below the lower
line of the
Square or Sloping Shoulders. at the hip line of the front and side gores. Care must always be taken
not to take too large a seam across the hips. but do not alter any seams to remedy this trouble.
After you have properly cut and fit and altered the lining of the waist and measured and adjusted the pattern of your skirt.
but before the outside material is cut into you must know that your pattern and lining are both altered exactly right. The same general instructions of careful work and perfect fitting and correct alterations apply to the making of all garments. being careful to keep a perfect seam line. Skirts must be altered in the seams. well made gown.To
alter for very straight figures. which you are following in making the garment in hand and you cannot fail to have a well fitting. until you have a perfect fit. edges of the gores.
up a seam. Begin six inches below the waist line of remembering. Ohio
Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister
to Sept. and fill in the hollow of the back by sanitary pad.
fairy-like figures and a painfully thin woman does not show good teste in wearing stripes and such combinations as are supposed to be worn only by women desiring to reduce the appearance of their size. and above all her collar is always in perfect position and neatly fastened
fancy pins or with invisible fasteners. and gowns herself to express an innate sense of refinement and good taste.
our duty to ourself as well as to others to be all that is bright and healthy and beautiful. Schofield Bldg. 50c and S1. eyes or buttons ever missing and her shoes are always clean Her skirts always hang evenly and her belt never is out of place or shined.00 boxes. tears or spots are ever visible and no hooks. but with her If she is inclined to be stout she does not wear plaids individuality and style. postpaid. Ohio
CLEVELAND. Both are put up in 25c. on receipt of price.
care or culture of that beauty which or less. at birth.
Mother Nature gave
the wisest everyone.
cleanliness. skin dry and
Wrinkles are only skin deep. We cannot be this if our livers are out of order and our complexion anything but what we would wish open pores.
She always has her hair neatly and and neckwear and all her
are immaculately clean and no rips. which make the face look old and cross are unnecessary— remove them with the
Crown and Bridgework
B. leaves no marks. safe. (Two Women)
1790 East 68th Street Cleveland.
P. Wrinkle Eradicators.
FROWNERS are for the lines between
SCIENTIFIC BEAUTY CULTURE.
CO. contains no chemicals. Sold at drug and department stores.
Seventh Floor. certain. If your dealer cannot supply you we will send by mail. or reds or pinks or any of the colors or materials suitable only for slight.
woman The well harmony and appropriateness of
XII. the wrinkles erased and the beauty greatly increased by the nightly application of these well known B. & P.
neatness. including booklet on care of face. In fact the well groomed woman studies herself.
B. telling marks of time.
beauty culture means bodily and
is. The skin can be made smooth.
Simple. These unsightly. OHIO
. together with an appreciation of the appropriate
THE WELL GROOMED WOMAN. The well groomed woman's clothes are never loud or conspicuous and the colors always harmonize not only with the occasion for wearing.
owned and patented by Mrs. sparkling eyes and a youthful contour. to become deeper day by day.
21 West 38th Street. or that the muscles and tissues of the cheeks have become relaxed.
which removes double chin and and the
GANESH FOREHEAD STRAP
($4. $2. ADAIR'S
GANESH TOILET PREPARATIONS AND FACIAL TREATMENTS
obtainable for years only at her Salons in New York. restores lined. $5. $1.00) which cures deep lines between brows.50.
Bottle. withered skins to velvety
SUPERFLUOUS HAIR TREATMENT
GANESH DIABLE SKIN TONIC. which with maturer years will surely become a hard line between it and our original chin.50.50.
GANESH EASTERN BALM SKIN FOOD
for tender.50. dry
skins. FACIAL MASSAGE.
These Imported Appliances.00. $3. originated.unhealthy a state of neglect that makes the lines wrought by worries. either that a gross ''double-chin" is beginning to form. Adair exclusively.00. strengthens the skin. $1. Paris and Nice. and in consequence there are flabby. closes pores and alleviates skin flabbiness and puffiness under the eyes.
WRITE FOR VALUABLE BOOK
Treatments and much beauty information and advice. as they reach the CAUSE of all blemishes and re-establish by natural means a healthy complexion.50. holGANESH EASTERN MUSCLE OIL braces sagging muscles. with a line like a big wrinkle.
discolored eyes to proper smoothness and fulness. Bottle.00. $5.
New St. pendulous
MRS. illness and time.00. $6. by antiseptic $2. Electrolysis is almost painless.
$2. are the antithesis of "make-up".
REGISTERED TRADE MARK
. Sometime we may be rudely awakened by finding. including the Strapping Muscle Treatment. $2.
a splendid face wash. corners of eyes and over forehead. 75c.
TIRED EYE TREATMENT
restores tired. London. 75c.
THIS PHOTO PORTRAYS
THE GANESH CHIN STRAP
($5.00.00. $5. can be obtained nowhere else in the world.50)
NEW YORK. Faithfully used they accomplish the most wonderful results everything that is claimed for them. on looking sideways into our hand glass.
MAIL ORDERS FILLED for all preparations and appliances on receipt of cheque.
lows and removes wrinkles. lined.
be one of them
and Let Me Give You a Sample
Permanent Bldg. rounded contour is maintained in all its attractiveness by the support afforded by the fat beneath it to the skin that lies smoothly over it like unwrinkled satin. No woman need lose the shape of her features nor the grace of her figure if she practices the Ganesh Exercises and Treatment.
Manicuring and Chiropody
Room 604 Standard Bldg. and loses its beauty of coloring.
In youth the soft.
FOOT . scientific and constant care.
Dermatologist and Chiropodist
V. removing lines. Adair's methods of reducing superfluous flesh. yellow or blood-shot eyes are marvelously efficacious. There have been many treatments for the difficulties and for the cure of double chins. and the skin falls into lines and furrows.
Recommended by N.
MRS. N. this even support of
the muscles and skin is withdrawn. Buffalo.. teachers
DeLong's Cucumber and Almond Massage Cream
Used and recommended by
Cleveland's best people.
muscles. hanging on either side of the chin. off.
716 Permanent Bldg. from illness. and filling out hollows. raises
and gives back the youthful shape and appearance to the face. double chin and restoring a youthful contour.m. 323 Euclid Ave. which are so clearly and thoroughly explained in the interesting and instructive book. Toledo.m.. Mrs.
taught. Your skin is not a dead thing to be left alone it is a sensative part of you. altogether altering the shape of the face and adding years to our age. adverse climates." which you may have for the asking by mail or in person at the parlors of Mrs.
R. absorption of some of this fat takes place. effective treatment called the Ganesh Strapping Muscle Treatment..KJ
Creme de Luxe
a delightful preparation to use in Does not wear place of powder. 0.
stores. Huron Bldg. hollows are formed in cheeks and temples. exposed to heat and cold. of eliminating deep frown lines.
0. "How to Retain and Restore Youthful Beauty of Face and Form. or any other cause. 0. to which so many
System. Adair at 21 West 38th
All foot troublespermanently relieved by scientific corrections under supervision of a surgeon. for
place. But when.
Creme de Luxe
Hours S a. Y. Stone's Shoe Store
Send 12 cents
6 p. of treating tired. 6U0 Madison Ave. Cleveland. Stone
bags. it needs skillful. but nothing has ever met with anything like the instant and entire success of the wonderful.
everyare graduates where. Makes skin soft and velvety.
Personal instructions by
"Never Mind. & CO. 12— Shoes. Ties. especially if one is preparing their clothes in advance for the season or perhaps arranging for a trip or a visit or for some occasion where a rather complete outfit is needed.
19— Bath Robe.
least 10 per cent of
your entire appropriation
BAIRD BROS. — Evening Gowns.
29—Veils. hardwood finish and hard-
restores the original brilliancy and lustre to furniture.
. 10— Petticoats. —Sanitary Skirt Protector. —Hosiery.
must be considered
an incidental cost in
A few drops on your dustcloth does the work.
— Union Suits. — Night Gowns. 17 — Negligee Gowns. Below we give a list which will help you in planning and serve to remind you of the essentials of every woman's complete wardrobe.
Often one does not know when to begin.THE WARDROBE. 18— Kimona. 7 — Drawers. 20— Housekeeping Gowns. 24— Handkerchiefs. —Furs. pianos. 0. 15 — Dinner Gowns. 8 — Brassieres. 9 — Corsets. — Chemises. 22— Millinery. Large size bottle 25c at your dealers'
for 35 years.
— Coats. 13 — Traveling or Street Gowns. Belts. 25 — Collars. 23 — Hair Dress.
to these are the numberless trifles
a varnish dries instantly. 28—Jewelry. 30— Scarf. — Corset Covers. Conno acid or injurious ingredients. 6— Sanitary Belt. when the subject of renewing their wardrobe presents itself. 16— House Gowns.
many makeshifts on
the market. like many other corsets do. but a well
can not only
with comfort but can be easily adjusted
prove secure. Ladies Improved Sanitary Belt and we have found no better on the market.. So much depends upon this one point.
you are unable to procure it from your dealer.
sizes 22 inches to 48 inches inclusive.
Standard Pattern with our improved
Patent Applied For )
No Safety Pin Easily Adjusted
are but few
the use of safety pins and
At All Dealers
"W. & N.
Webbing at Front and Back
N. but without the torture.
POSTPAID. inclusive. carefully made garment look its best. instead of pressing it down. for unless your corset fits your individual figure. in fact the foundation of your entire appearance to say nothing of your health and comfort lies in the well fitting corset. the same as with any ordinary corset. and while supporting the bust. heart In other words it will allow one to dress according to the and stomach. lungs. We at all times recommend the Berthe May "Hygie" corset as we find its hygienic and physical advantages cannot be disputed.
and that is a are most unwill
clasped or will not hold the napkins in place. your entire wardrobe that should be given more There is no the grace of your careful attention than your corsets."
to 48 ins.
of fastening and
not complete without a belt of this
have carefully examined the W.
40 Lispenard St. your
not fit perfectly. there are
E. for the fit of your gown carriage.
Sizes of Belts are actual
waist measure. send us his name and 25c for sample belt.
Dept. it allows entire freedom and full expansion to the chest. Order large enough to drop well down over hips. B. as it does not constrict the waist and is designed and cut on the idea of supporting the abdomen. neither will the most expensive. that the choice and judgement of the most experienced corsetiere should be consulted.
Sons Co. latest styles.(A) CORSETS.&N.
Call and let us demonstrate
this article to you.
every woman's wardrobe. odorless. fit and durability.
purchasing. $1. and press it and always have it in perfect condition. It is absolutely waterproof. Always recogour
have doubtless often realized.
people it is almost indispensable. The Ama Sanitary Skirt Protector has so many c salient featur.
Beware of worthimitations.
For misses and
excellent material used guarantees its wearing
is made in medium large size selling at Price 50c. made with lace net yoke affording perfect ventilation and can be readily laundered.
Sanitary Skirt Protector
CLEVELAND. The Ama Sanitary Skirt Protector is an article
especially desirable for the present
dress.s that it cannot be ex elled for com ort.00 and $2. for one is never safe at certain times to wear their gowns and dainty underwear. If you get a good one you can wash unless a sure protection is afforded.
tourists. 22nd.00 each
qualities. as flexible as fine linen.
sanitary skirt protector
market THERE now on the the needa ready-to-wear which you wardrobe acce:sory. We recommend the skirt protector as one that will give entire satisfaction. but have never before been able to secure in an ideal form. 1908
article is fully protected
Sanitary Skirt protector will be mailed to any address in the
receipt of price the
SKIRT PROTECTORS. nmde of a high grade white rubber muslin.
should wear a waist supporter in order that a
about the waist can always be relied upon.
Price 15 Cents at
DAVID BASCH. 1/ not at dealers. skirt supporter on the market than is shown below. with so much pleasure at one's leisure time if handy with the needle.ARBORj TEA SHOP
6541 Euclid Avenue
Exclusive Models in Dress and Tailored Hats. Every careful dresser. Self-acting buckle stays put. the street or traveling should be selected of one of the soft plain shapes with simple trimming.
LINGERIE. No sharp points to hurt fingers. elastic sides. at back.. S. but great care should be used that the selection be one that exhibits taste. corset covers and drawers should be of dainty
muslin or fine linen.
Pat'ee &Mfr. great improvement over old style belts." take double hold without undue pressure.
The "LOOP-HOLD" Shirtwaist BELT
corrects a common fault in dress. and if possible hand embroidered in any of the beautiful designs which can so easily be procured and done. on receipt of price. but for church and theatre wear one
more elaborate and trimmed effects and can satisfy and decoration of ribbons.
their eye as to color
SHIRT WAIST SUPPORTERS. 17th St. but the majority of women
Waist Cannot Be Displaced
pyramid "Units" grip and keep waist from riding up. graceiul. CORNER SUPERIOR AND 105TH THE WARNER HAT SHOPPE
considers it possible for every woman to have an Individual Style
Shop and Tea Room
can be found
Novelties in Art and Needle
MILLINERY. style and setting of one's face and features.
night gown. feathers and flowers. refinement and a respect for the shape. practical. Dept. Metal parts cannot rust. Simple. sent postpaid. Even though the edging and insertion be of fine lace or embroidery it will greatly add to the beauty of the garment to have at least a small floral design of hand work. held in by patented " loop. 15 E. Many make these garments entirely by hand. chemise.
as the waist
nothing that ruins the entire appearance of a
out of place above the belt line or perhaps showing a dividing line between the skirt band and the waist line. Price 15 Cents.
hat for business. both French and Domestic. when wearing a waist that is separate from the skirt.
be a cloth a rain-proof fabric of "Cravenette" proof is a process which The process permeates every fibre renders a cloth or garment water-proof. rendering the cloth permanently rain-proof, and rain will then of the yarns, You can have your coat, suit, wrap, or neither wet nor spot the garment. motoring garments made from the Priestley Cravenette Cloths, and you will If you are obliged to be out in all kinds of find your needs perfectly met. weather, rain or shine, you should by all means have a "Cravenette" rain-coat. We specify "Cravenette," because a genuine Cravenette-proof coat contains no rubber, is porous to air, yet rain-proof and has not the disagreeable odor common to most raincoats, and too, there is not the stiffness of the material, which renders many of the rain coats so undesirable and unattractive. The Cravenette-proof process leaves the cloth just as supple as before and every The main point to bear in fibre of the yarns is made thoroughly rain-proof. mind is to get a rain-coat that is strictly hygienic, keeping the dampness out without preventing ventilation. However, if you are only out in an occasional sprinkle or shower, a rain-coat is unnecessary, but you should have a street
(G) RAINCOATS AND people imagine Cravenette some sort but such is not the case.
or business or traveling suit
any of the Priestley cloths of serviceable
and wearable mohair suitings, serge, chevoit, whipcord, etta, which you can get "Cravenette" proof.
Silk y^^y^pti^^fiyci^ Labe
stamped on the inside and a sewed at the collar or elsewhere.
None Genuine Without Them
applied to many kinds of cloth suitable for outer garchildren's men's, women's and ments in light, medium and heavy weights for seasons of the year, and are for wear in rain or shine.
" Rain Will Neither
Wet Nor Spot Them."
They con t ain no Rubber, have no
disagreeable odor; will not overheat or cause perspiration.
For sale by leading dealers in Men's, Women's and Children's Clothing.
Hoboken, New Jersey
postal to the
Co., 100 Fifth Avenue, will bring interesting booklet.
A DROP OF OIL
annoyance, and more than that, when it gets on goods that you are anxious to keep clean. The oil cup on the White Rotary prevents all trouble of the kind. It's a trifle, but
by attention to the little things that make the White Rotary the very best machine you can buy. Our terms will surprise you by their
White Sewing Machine Go.
426 Prospect Ave.
Lesson 78.— CORSET
nainsook, muslin, sheer lawn, linen, or any thin fine material.
tucks (Lesson 54). Join seams with French seam (Lesson 47).
Gather at waist line son 64). Finish neck and armholes with embroidery scallops (Lesson 22), or face on right side with very fine embroidery. See Lesson 53.) Embroider any desired design (Lessons 19-25 inclusive). Make eyelets and run in ribbon to hold in fullness (Lesson 25). Close with small buttons and buttonholes (Lessons 29-30).
(Lesson 65). and make band of goods or of beading for belt (Les-
Cut out (Lesson
Join with either plain or French seams.
(See Lessons 41 and 47.)
Face both sides of opening (Lesson Face around top for belt (Lesson
Make buttonholes (Lesson 27). Sew on buttons (Lesson 30).
have not the time to put so much personal labor on their wardrobe, but the character of a woman is more easily discerned by the daintiness, prettiness and completeness of her lingerie, than by the beauty or elaborateness of her best gowns.
In France, a bride has never less than 12 pieces of each article of underwear beautifully done by hand work and exhibited with great pride to all her
buying and making these garments that your lingerie with care will last for many years to come, and you can afford to put more time and expense on them than on your outside garments that change style, color and design to suit every whim and caprice of fashion.
Lesson 80.— CHEMISE. Procure a good chemise pattern and make exactly as instructed in (Lesson 79), on the making of night gowns.
Lesson 81.— NIGHT GOWN. Cut out (Lesson 76). Join with dainty French seam (Lesson Embroider neck and edge of sleeves (Lesson 22), or fact on the right side with any desired trimming of embroidery or lace fine (Lesson 53). Embroider desired design. (See Lessons 19 to 25 inclusive).
Make eyelets (Lesson 25) neck, and draw about through ribbon to adjust
Lesson 82.— COMBINATION UNDERGARMENTS. Cut out (Lesson 76). Fit carefully (Lesson 77). Join all seams with French seams (Lesson 47). Set in yoke (Lesson 65). Put on beading and edging (Lesson 57). Sew on ruffle (Lesson 56). If for open drawers face both sides of opening (Lesson 53). Close with small buttons and buttonholes (Lesson
house and evening gowns. heatherbloom or even a good quality of sateen is preferable. and where the fullness commences make a slit on each side and insert a tape.
Chapel in Connection
DRESSING SACQUES AND KIMONAS. Make buttonholes (Lesson 29). Join ruffle (Lesson 56). East 135
1738 East 55th Street
Cut out (Lesson 76). dimities. for it is the dainty feminine expression of lingerie and negligee garments that expresses the refined womanly tastes and will prove of pleasure to you so long as they last. Face upper edge of the garment (see Lesson 53). but have them made the proper length to wear with your
For your sireet. soft flannels or in fact almost any pretty
be used. The slit should be carefully worked with the button hole stitch (Lesson 24).— PETTICOATS.
and means will permit. The material can be of large figured silk. silk.Lesson 83.— SKIRTS AND UNDERWEAR WITHOUT PLACKET. fleece lined goods. Parrish
Bell Phone. lawns. challie. Face top (Lesson 53).
Have plenty of white skirts plain or elaborate to match your other lingerie of your outfit. Hem (Lesson 48). Sew on buttons (Lesson 30). Stitch the facing down securely.
Lesson 84. drawing it through the slit on the opposite side. business and traveling gowns. Join seams (Lesson 41).
not go to the
Kimonas and Art Laces"
before buying ?
150 The Arcade
See Our Beautiful Designs and Get Our Low Prices
Lesson 85.— DRESSING
Cut out (Lesson
pleat in back.
Face collar (Lesson
elbow and shirr around
waist (Lesson 55), and finish with dainty
of bright ribbon at the waist.
Lesson 86.— KIM ON A.
Cut out (Lesson
seams on machine.
bottom of garment (Lesson
Make yoke and attach (Lesson 65). Make sleeves and put in (Lesson
Face edges and sleeves (Lesson
facing should be of satin or
ing shade of the same or a lighter material.
scientific drugless treatment
Aprons are the simplest of all garments to make, No. 3857 is especially easy to make. Cut out goods (Lesson 76). Face all edges (Lesson 53). Make pocket (Lesson 73)." Make one buttonhole and sew on button (Lessons 29-30).
No. 3180 requires a little more time and effort. Cut out (Lesson 76). If embroidery for ruffle, bib and pockets is not used hem ruffle (Lesson 48). Face bib and pockets (Lesson
Put on ruffle (Lesson 56). Put on pockets (Lesson 73). Gather and join bib to skirt of
Put on band (Lesson 64).
Is This the
Is that the condition of your nerves? If so, your system is just like the violin shown above; utterly unable to perform the work for which it was intended. Until there is an improvement in these conditions, there is no chance for harmonious action between the various organs of the body. The office of the nervous system is to control and direct the vital forces. If the nerves are not strong, healthy and in proper tone they cannot do this work any more than can the violin give forth sweet and melodious music when "all unstrung."
You Do Not Need
a Nerve STIMULANT, But a NERVE Food. a Nerve Food and Strength Builder.
At the same prepared especially to build up and strengthen the nervous system. time it purifies the blood and regulates the circulation, so that the nerve centers may distribute the vital forces to the organs in need. If you'are only slightly nervous, you ought to take ZOA-PHORA at once and thus thwart the onward march of the disease. If your nerves are already in such a shattered condition that they are threatened with nervous prostration, ZOA-PHORA will give you relief and strengthen your nervous system.
95 for the Special
Lesson 88.— LINGERIE WAIST. Choose your pattern and
follow the instructions of
desired design and effect and mak-
ing according to
Sleeves, Lesson 69 or 70.
Collars, Lessons 66, 67 and 68. Yoke, Lesson 65. Trimmings and Finish, Lessons 54, 57, 58 and 62. If a Lining is desired make according to Lessons 76 and 77.
Lesson 89.— HOUSE KEEPING GOWNS. Your house keeping gowns should be of percale or gingham or some wash goods so that at all times you can be immaculately clean. Have them made plain and simple so they can be easily gotten into and also have your aprons large, and of a material that washes neatly. Use instructions (Lesson 76), taking steps according to numbers; X-l, X-5, X-7, X-8, X-9, X-15. Then put on facing about sleeves, neck and down front and belt (Lesson 53). Now hem skirt (Lesson 48). Sew on buttons and make buttonholes (Lessons
Easy to Pay the Rosenblum Way"
STYLISH GOODS Woman
pays the bill
WE GIVE STAMPS
We Make Good Unsatisfactory Purchases We Never Misrepresent
GIVE US A CALL
Credit Clothing Co.
2014 Ontario St. Cor.^hamplain
Mr. Rosenblum Himself
By following these instructions carefully and faithfully. Dresses. 1 Cut (Lesson 76). turning to the specific lesson as indicated. and stitch on both sides of pleat. Coats. Upstairs
Lesson 90.—A shirt waist is something it seems no one has too many of they are so useful and so necessary for so many occasions and can be constructed of such a variety of fabrics and in such a wide range of styles. —We
making gown 4533
contains nearly every element and requires the explanation of nearly all points of dressmaking. 6—Make sleeves and attach (Lesson 70). and attach or put on neck band (Lesson 64). front and back. Waists.
Suits. Skhts. etc. of course. 8 Make collar
— GOWNS. — Gather at waist
5 7 line in
and attach a
belt or stitch bias
band to hold
CLEVELAND CREDIT CLOTHING
CO. 3 Fit and make any necessary alterations (Lesson 77). 2 Join with plain seams (Lesson 41). pays for both at all stores where they give them).00 a Week Payments
growing by leaps and bounds. We do not have any collectors.
Tea Company's Store
2165 Ontario Street.— SHIRT WAIST.
— — —
— Hem the underside of the front closing.There Must Be a Reason Why
month. do not handle any premiums nor give trading stamps (the customer. The quality of our merchandise is the best and our guarantee of absolute satisare not in the
given with every
sale. 4 Form box pleat in right front. and leave
collar loose. Shoes.
Make buttonholes and sew on buttons (Lesson 29-30).
Goods Sold on $1. you cannot fail to develop your
91. Our operating expenses are low. Jewelry. Hundreds of are added to our already large patronage every
a Reason —
High Rent District.
are on subjects of interest to women. In short.. state and nation in which she lives. If you wish to please your husband's palate just give him some of the good. departments on cooking.
are equal to the very best you can get anywhere. believe that the real American woman does not consider "home" to be just the house in which she lives. She is looking for more information constantly and PICTORIAL furnishes that knowledge. She is very properly interested in the schools which her children shall attend. in the politics which make taxes high and her rent accordingly higher. With these departments before you a magazine devoted wholly to housekeeping is a needless extravagance.
San Francisco Vienna
Any ornamentation suitable to the occasion to be worn may be used. its ideas will save much more than the cost of the magazine for a year. making as low or as high cut gown as desired. are written by experts and their information is practical and daily useful. The household departments in PICTORIAL REVIEW. and in many other subjects which are of vital importance to her daily living.16
— Face bottom of skirt (Lesson —Sew on hooks and eyes (Lesson
and in harmony with the an evening gown the upper portion of both lining and material of the waist can be cut away.
St. marketing. 39th
. It is Its suggestions. PICTORIAL REVIEW is "The Magazine for Women.
59). find that she considers "home" to be the city. etc.
Co. The up-to-date American housewife is a thinking
woman. plain. a necessity in every home. You had better subscribe now and find out about our magazine and our patterns." It covers every range of woman's activity completely..
Charming Lingerie Frocks Smart Street Toilettes Afternoon Dresses in Foulards and Taffetas New and Fascinating Evening Gowns An Alluring Assortment of Lace Blouses in the New Casaque and Peplum Styles
a fashion magazine although it carries more and better styles than any fashion magazine
W. tasty dishes described in PICTORIAL REVIEW'S COOKING DEPARTMENT. For
To be Dressed
in the Latest Fashion Select
from the Season's Number
The PICTORIAL REVIEW
Costs only 5c
with a 15c pattern
Co. home decoration. They make the so-called
"fiction-magazine" unnecessary. in life insurance which cares for her
when the bread-winner is suddenly taken away.
.Lesson 92. Every wardrobe should hold as many evening gowns as the individual will have need of.
Select carefully your materials with a view of perfect keeping with
associates. and they should be as simple. 'Make exactly according to Lesson 91.
. but for younger women prettiness and daintiness and attractiveness should be the aim rather than richness. and the panel is used instead of the
all-over flounce. or as magnificent as her station in life demands.—EVENING AND DINNER GOWNS. and a number of cheap inappropriate useless garments purchased when one good garment of a more suitable nature would have been a better investment.
4598 Central 1379-W
. except the breteile is crossed in the front instead of the back. Lesson 93. elegance or elaborateness. when the same amount of money expended in two or three simple evening frocks would have constantly served to the pleasure and needs. as often too elegant evening
and unenjoyed. yet sometimes the other extreme is met.
for a season
30. For making see Lesson 91.
which the cloth is placed. but you can detect cheap worthless
coat front foundations by their stiffness.Made' ' Coat Front Foundation
By examining the drawing alongside which shows
the inside view of the Grean Tailor-Made Coat Front Foundation. but it is also part of a pattern by which one can be safely guided.. a wide button hole stay runs the whole length of the coat. Tailor-Made Coat Fronts Foundations are distinguished by their beautiful shaping and tailoring and every season the shapes change according to the prevailing To those who have found difficulty in making coat fronts for themfashions.
very soft and pliable.
coat. themself. are protected with a white linen stay. you will find a Grean patented Shoulder form. The foundation for the front of your coat or jacket is very important.
Those who are unable good tailor made front
Front Foundations to be almost a
necessity. gether and some tailors use fronts
of canvas prepared separately to
the outside. and at the top. The present styles
demand soft coat fronts.
different coats. 34th
St. They are made of the best material appropriate for this purpose and are thoroughly sponged and shrunk.
. 327-329 E.00
GREAN SHOULDER FORM & PAD
CO. lightweight silk or velvet Grean suits and fur garments.
them in medium weight
variety to suit
tailor suit.. There are several methods of making jackets and coats.— CLOAKS AND SUIT JACKETS.Lesson 96. in the shoulder.
and renders it unfit to be used your garment.
requirements. which is usually nothing but
"Tailor. but a tailored made coat front.
be a good lesson and example to study Grean ready made and
coat front foundation. which can be purchased for much less than one can Accept no imitations or substitutes.
These tailor-made coat front foundations are made in different weights and lengths. A good sized arm-pad surrounding.
to the heaviest automobile garments. must have more in it than an ordinary piece of canvas without preliminary preparations of careful sponging and shrinking. from the short Eton coat to a 32 inch length coat so much worn now. made of white French felt and edges of the best herringbone hair-cloth used for center stiffening. for a tailormade coat or jacket. If your dealer cannot supply you write us immediately.
but well tailored and firm enough to support and retain shape permanently. but the difference Some tailors sew cloth and canvas tolies chiefly in preparing the fronts. you will notice that it is It is not only a foundation over a complete coat front.
. 9 When an exact fit has been obtained detach from lining. No work or stitches should be left visible on the lining.
3). press and sew turning in the lining to 13 — Make collar and attach (Lesson 67).
above directions you will be able to work out a well fitting.
Short Coat Front.
out and attach with very small slant stitches
cover the seam. IS — Again press the entire garment. 16—The trimmings can then be sewed on.
35 to 50c
lost its original shape.
supply you direct or
used in garments where a coat front of canvas has been already used but has
dealer and send you a catalogue of other
strict attention to the
8 Baste goods over lining and try on and fit perfectly (Lesson 77).
— Lay on goods (Lesson 76— to — Cut out lining (Lesson 76— 3 — Baste up lining seams (Lesson — Fit and make necessary alterations (Lesson —'Cut outside material (Lesson 76—6-11).
— Make sleeves (Lesson 72). sew up seams in desired manner (Lesson 41).
327-329 East 34th St. nicely finished garment and the saving of doing this work yourself will allow you to put extra money into a better grade of material than otherwise you could choose or you can practically buy the goods for another suit. —Make buttons and buttonholes (Lessons 29 and 30).
bust forms of hair cloth or soft canvas. and press (Lesson 75).
— Make and put pocket — Put in lining right side
7 Join seams of lining.
GREAN SHOULDER FORM & PAD
CO. in any style or manner desired. for much of the beauty of the coat or cloak depends upon this part.
5). beautifully shaped and used in either short coats or long coats where only bust reinforcing is necessary and
If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealer's.
in. You can purchase made at any of our advertisers carrying Grean dressmaking
supplies.no more particular work in dressmaking than the proper tailoring of a jacket or coat and you should never attempt to make one of these garments in a hurry. and press seams open.
MICHIGAN. ZOA-PHORA CO. as not only the appearance. but in
stances the clothing must be loose and comfortable and both the dress and
underwear should be
shoulders. They contain Nerve Tonics ANTISEPTIC which are absorbed into the Blood and VITALIZING COHES Give Vitality to the Whole System. Ten days' treatment will convince you that no matter how serious your condition a positive relief Sample free upon request. reliPRICE. Read on the last page of this book your druggist' special offer to you of a free ten days' treatment of these Cones. ^6. but the comfort of the individual
to a large extent
upon these two
things. The Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones have in the past years permanently relieved thousands upon thousands of women and the price of a month's treatment for 50 cents makes them within the reach of all.ZOA-PHORA
for local treatment and are antiseptic in their action on Diseased Tis-
sue and Unhealthy Conditions. They allay Inflammation and heal the irri71.
must be given the matter of corsets and
the lining of the gowns.. Cones are a female suppository.
an expectant mother prepares for
upon what her duties
require of her during this period. Beware of dangerous imitations that contain mineral and poisons and which have'no established
reputation. The Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing KALAMAZOO. 50 CENTS.
. safe. L able and effective. has been found.
CHAPTER XIII. MATERNITY OUTFIT. Proprietors. a tated parts. P^t^£L.
the same as an ordinary corset.BERTHE MAY'S
corset of this kind
purpose.00 to $18. in a normal condition. and it can be reduced to a normal size and worn as long as desired after the child is born. and yet with its own particular advantages. 46th
St. to be used whenever needed.. Physicians use it in their own families aud prescribe it to their patients. and upon examination and investigation we find that the "Lucine" corset is so constructed that it can be worn as early as wanted. which can be opened successively when more room is needed.
$5. to preserve a normal appearance. The most celebrated maternity corset that has come to our notice is the Berthe May "Lucine" corset.
(98)— MATERNITY CORSETS.
. Orders by mail filled with absolute satisfaction because of my perfect yet simple measurement system. enables women to dress as usual.
BERTHE MAY. thus affording the comfort and safety so necessary in a weakened condition of the abdomen.
Every woman should have this corset in her wardrobe. on account of the healthy support which it gives both the abdomen and to the back. 15
b. A maternity corset must combine as an abdominal support and a corset in fact it must be a protection to the abdominal walls against too great relaxation and yet must serve to give grace to the figure and to make it possible for her to go about and be active during the entire period.
expectant mother should go without a corset. together with photographic reproductions and full information. The Lucine corset can be made gradually larger when wanted. and to attend to her customary vocation during the whole term of her pregnancy. thanks to its exclusive and It procures an absolute simple system of gradual enlargement. as well as during the maternity period. abdominal support at all times. It is manufactured to be an absolute safeguard against all accidents for the mother as well as for the child.00
Write for free booklet No. as her own health and that of her child would be materially injured by such a course. and allows the mother to dress as usual. as it can be worn at any time. to deport herself with the greatest comfort. sent under plain envelope.. Mfr. but she should never wear the ordinary style and cut. to preserve a normal appearance and to attend to their every -day vocations. through a system of inside plaits of the material.
ZOA-PHORA KALAMAZOO. and an extenskirt making. how serious your case you will find the ZOA-PHORA PILE the one safe. will forever convince you that to suffer with this disease is positively unGo to your Pull directions in each package. and lace
linen or elastic
The band from which
rather loosely fitted
the front of the skirt
from exactly under the
of time and 50 cents for a full month's treatment well-known meritorious effective Remedy. and extending to the bottom of the waist lining. Accept no substitute.. 3916. Proprietors. druggist today ana procure a month's treatment before your No matter disease becomes more deep seated and chronic. Sample sent FREE upon request.)
maternity skirt is cut after a special maternity skirt pattern.
The opening down
the front shoulder
back. for making. but it is seamed and faced and finished the same as given in the regular lesson on It should have a good sized pleat at each seam.
arms where there
Allowance must be made that enough goods
top of the skirt to extend the front and
as the figure
order that the skirt
way around. and the dart seams either side from the shoulder
faced back (Lesson S3).Lesson 99.
The instructions found in Lesson 91. reliable and satisfactory treatment.
(Trade Mark. except the lining is finished altogether
MICHIGAN. See instructions (Lesson 76).
on both sides of
the lining has dart seams
50 CENTS. make this gown perfectly. tion at the top for lengthening front and sides.— MATERNITY
GOWN.— MATERNITY SKIRT. Ohio
full line of
. easy stretching elastic band is used for the belt.
See cut of lining at top of Fig.
See page 96 for
ZOA-PHORA REMEDIES COMPANY.
Lesson 100. necessary. and a very pliable.
13— Millinery. by wearing a badly fitted corset. 9 — Church dress. — Hosiery. We would recommend the Berthe May "Hebe" Corset.
the mistake of going without sufficient underwear and of a
quality to give you sufficient warmth and have all of your lingerie plain and dainty.
For over 50 years Zoa-Phora has proven an invaluable remedy to meet the needs of weak. nervous.
— Light warm woolen 2— Under vests.
— Night gowns. 10 — Party dress. while you are growing you can seriously injure yourself and your health. narcotics or other dangerous or harmful drugs. build up the tissues^strengthen the nerves and put the entire constitution in harZoa-Phora is monious condition. sickly girls and women. as it will give you all the beautiful curves and angles without the discomfort and danger of the modern corset. 12— Hair ornaments. You will find on the following pages suggestions of appropriate styles for your gowns. for during the pliable age. 18— Corset waists. 21 — Furs. together with complete instructions for the making of them and if you are a wise girl you will begin with the first lesson of this book and master every point of plain and fancy needlework for it is one of the most refined acquirements possible for a gentlewoman to attain. — House gown.CHAPTER IV. THE SCHOOL GIRL'S WARDROBE.
who is away from home wardrobe we have made out a
or the one without a mother to look of necessary articles and you will
find the list
planning your wardrobe. especially~compounded to purify and
the blood. for every girl entering womanhood.
4— Handkerchief s. All of your garments should be simple and
. — Bath robes. Get your shoes of sensible style and thickness and large enough to
be comfortable regardless of the season or fashion.
vate prescription for women. — Shoes. 8— School dress.
— Petticoats. 19 — Sweater. 20— Cloak. Special attention should be paid to your corsets.
Read our Special
Offer Page 96 of this Book. opiates. — Combination corset
—White petticoats. purely a vegetable compound no alcohol.
Skirt (Lesson 95).
edge.girlish. as nothing is more unattractive than rich elegant garments worn by a sweet faced girl. whose youth and its natural qualities need no artificial adornment. OHIO
West Side Branch Franklin and W.
Apply to the
Prospect Avenue and East 18th
101. 32nd Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister
. sensible. gorgeous effects suitable for the stage or at best for older women. party and summer dresses.— Make
exactly according to Lesson 91.
Collar (Lesson 63).
made exactly on the same principle as a lady's dress. Follow instructions for making as found in LesGirl's
hemming. shown is one widely approved of and very popular for graduating.
Follow instructions for
89). whose natural charms are
beginning to wane.
X2— X6. dainty garments will win for you a thousand fold more admiration than magnificent.
omit Xll. Remember immaculate.
perhaps no department of
SPECIFIC. M'f 'rs. At
DRESSES. poplins. $1.
Lesson 104. Shortens and lightens the disease.CHILDREN'S CLOTHES.
more labor and
care and expense than
usually figured on.. Quickly cures Croup.
not take up space in giving this instruction.
Every mother desires
to see her little
sewing where an economical wife and
mother can save
by doing the work herself
sleeves and put in (Lesson 69). so that
can be kept perfectly
hardly economical to
clothing after they leave the "Buster
period. severe Coughs.
goods before cutting (Lesson
76). Prevents bronchial diseases.
In the latter instance the guimpe or sleeves
and yoke should always be of wash goods.
pared for Whooping Cough.00.
holes (Lessons 29-30). bot. and
every instance possible should be of wash
goods such as
point in planning children's garments
have them as plain
and appropriate as possible. flannel. O. Used in Cleveland Orphan Asylums 20 years.
the winter either underwear heavy enough to fully protect the child from the
cold must be provided or woolen dresses of serge.
41). 5 oz.
ones daintily dressed and
Lickes Drug Co.. novelty goods or
any warm material must be worn.
French seams (Lesson
Make Make Make
and attach (Lesson
48). bot. Colds. piques. Physicians recommend it.
be lined or unlined and
child's coat is
waist (Lesson 29).
and make buttonholes or sew on
loops of elastic cord.Lesson 105.
drawers (Lesson 48).
seam hidden by the facing
French seams (Lesson
neatly (Lesson 57).— CHILDREN'S
WAISTS AND DRAWERS.
Cut out (Lesson
of the collar. except
and sew on buttons (Lesson
Fasten up back with washable buttons.
— ROMPERS. INFANTS WARDROBE.
69). six bibs.
Make pocket (Lesson
73). three dozen
necessary to a child's wardrobe are very simple and easy to make. three sacks. — Every
64). for they are a comfortable. one coat. three wrappers.
Cut (see Lesson
76). three petticoats petticoats (flannel). and how many of each article to make. six bands. and if mother has the time to spare. one veil. three pinning blankets. sensible garment for the little one to play in. six pair bootees. so below we
will give a list of absolutely nec-
garments and articles together with an idea of about the number of each that the average expectant mother should have preessary
Six dresses.BELLE VERNON MILK
the Best Milk
109. especially one expecting for the first time.
Gather at knees. she usually prefers doing much of the work
and saves the mother much care and thought concerning
cum powder. one cap. six pair hose. usually a question as to just what they are to make.
Put on collar (Lesson 68).
one diaper cover.
the prospective mother. and a layout containing
articles. six night slips. one kimona. pared: three (white).
Cut (Lesson 76). The little flannel jackets are made in one piece and the edges should be The night gown.
CAN anything than
Read the Special
Offer as Given
on Page 97
Ex pectant mothers can not afford to be without
. Sew on buttons (Lesson 30).
Should Be the First Consideration. Sew on lace or fine embroidery edging (Lesson 57). Hem bottom of skirt (Lesson 48). The coat.
be more vitally important that the organs of maternity of the mother be in a perfect state of health and strength to undergo this trying ordeal? The expectant mother should begin to take ZOAas soon as pregnancy is known from time to time as needed according to directions. Make and put in sleeves (Lesson 69).
While Preparing for the Coming of the
One. or if lace or embroidery edging is not used you may feather stitch around the edge of the collar and down the front on either side of the buttonholes and many prefer to feather stitch the hem (see Lesson 18). follow instructions for making child's
SLIP. the edges turned in and finished with an edging of lace or feather stitched. (see Lesson 106). Make and attach collar (Lesson 68). and made as daintily as possible.— The dress is made the same as instructed (Lesson 104) child's dress except very much longer. Hem back the fronts (Lesson 48). and a rapid recovery of natural health and strength afterward. The petticoat. Sew up seams (Lessons 41 and 47). This treatment is a positive aid in maintaining a good condition of health during confinement.Lesson 110. Diapers should be made of good cotton diaper cloth. of Birdseye linen or Canton flannel. gown (Lesson 104). but it should not be worn at all times as the ordinary waterproof diapers are not porous enough to let the air properly to the child's
body. and neatly hem by hand. Kimona (see Lesson 86).— MAKING THE INFANT'S OUTFIT. and should take regularly during the last month of confinement and for one or two months after birth. A rubber diaper should be made for protection on occasions § when you are traveling or taking your child away from home. quick and easy delivery at birth. Bibs should be of double thickness. both flannel and the dainty white ones are made under same instructions as Lesson 105. embroidered or neatly bound with pink or blue ribbon. Make buttonholes (Lesson 29). cut square.
M i(. for a process or chemical that removes the spot from one material will set the stain in or ruin another material.0»«>
wuwmu moms cs
ei«n.CLEANING.«m. You can do considerable
for careful consideration
kept beautifully clean and in
must always be given to the nature of the spot and the material.
cleaning of clothes and accessories of the dress
often a problem.
The Proper Dressing
Ask Your Shoeman
and rinse thoroughly in clear tepid water. Coffee Stains:— Do not soak or put into soap suds until boiling water has been poured through the cloth until the stain is removed. Cocoa Stains. Down Town Store 532 Euclid
your own cleaning at home by using Cummer's Energine.
Service. Brass Stains. silk or cotton can most effectively be removed with Cummer's Energine full instructions for its use are found on the bottle. dip It is the a cotton cloth into the alcohol. it should then be put in very hot water. then wash in sweet milk and rinse in clear tepid water. Grease Spots on any fabric.
General Offices and Laboratories
\2\$ tO 1230 East 71st St. which will clean woolen goods. rubbing until the stain disappears. stain and not the rubbing. woolen. Ink Spots: There are many ways of removing ink spots. furs. Soak in cold water. that must be otherwise your article may be returned to you ruined. and it should always be kept on hand to keep However. or if on white goods. soak the stain in salts of lemon. leathers. then
and proceed as for blood stains. Blood Stains: Soak the stains in cold water over night. silks. or if the ink
. Rub pure lard on stain and leave for a few hours. laces. there are many garments your articles in good fresh condition. Boil from 20 to 30 minutes. kid gloves. where you can depend upon your work being properly done. and care should be taken to select a reliable place. and good laundry soap. Nevertheless you will need a few suggestions for removing the spots and clothes and which you may desire to stains that are so apt to get on your try to remove yourself. dry cleaned. then pour boiling water through the
spot until the stain has entirely
disappeared. feathers and almost anything cleanable. If on thin goods pour out a little alcohol in a bowl and rub out the stain. We give you in these pages the addresses of first class establishments. Then follow directions as for removing blood stains. If the article is such that it can be boiled. in which has been added a mixture of equal parts of "Elwako". so the main point is to alcohol that removes the have your cloth well saturated with the alcohol. felts.
Us Up —Phones. then rinse and wash carefully in tepid soap suds.
"Universal Dry Cleansing" It isn't the best. then wash in tepid soap suds and proceed as lor removing blood stains.THE UNIVERSAL DRY CLEANSING
// it isn't
CO. or if on heavier goods. and then rinse in ammonia water. salt or flour until you have absorbed all the ink possible. if the goods can be boiled. Grass Stains: Must be removed with alcohol. if the stain is on a washable article. If the spot is still moist cover with sugar. Fruit Stains: Follow directions as for removing coffee stains.
than to attempt to do the work yourself. For Chapped or Cracked Hands. and one ounce of chloride of lime. Phone Crest234
ump ^^ Z/^» ^§S3S3Rgg0r
For and Deliver
13256 Euclid Avenue and 13430 Euclid Avenue
. Chafes and Croup. rinse in clear tepid water.
Wash with cold water and a pure white soap. or oxalic acid until the ink has been removed.
Mildew: Soak in buttermilk spread on grass in sun.
wash. then wash gently in tepid soap
suds and rinse in clear tepid water.
until the stain
Sponge with a weak solution of hydrochloric acid. Or you may soak the stain in salts of lemon. Blisters.
for 24 hours. removed or the colors clear. or rub out the spots in equal parts of turpentine and alcohol. Catarrh and Colds in the Head. if the material not rub wet borax over the spot and rinse in clear cold water.Zoa-Phora Balm
No Family Supply is Complete Without Known Ointment---within easy reach at
r ^*^/S-r T s**n f^k C-5
Scorch Marks can be effectively removed only by sunshine. or to a pint of water add one-fourth pound of sal soda. Spots: — Rub out in kerosene and wash in tepid
soap suds and
rinse in clear tepid water. but as this is a very dangerous drug to work with it is usually better to send your garment to a cleaner.
Paint Spots: Rub with vaseline until paint is softened. and then rinse in clear cold water. Insect Bites. then wash in gasoline or benzine. soak the stain in this solution for half an hour. Scalds.
Iodine Stains can best be removed with chloroform. then wash in benzine or gasoline. Rough Skin.
times Common Skin
D rice Zjc rer oox Off D D
ALL FIRST CLASS DRUGGISTS will supply you
has dried wash out the ink stains in the milk and rinse as above directed. or turpentine and ammonia. all Children's Sore Throat. Bruises. Cold on the Lungs. Boils. Eruptions.
Rust Stains may be removed by soaking
solution of hydro-
clear cold water. Piles. Burns.
— Follow directions for removing coffee stains.
Peacock Dyes are put up
collapsible tubes. before putting in the article to be dyed. so that it takes day to wear off. appear as good as new and that at but a few cents of expense. table covers and various other articles may be dyed and brightened up. in fact making them in many cases. When dying. the probable result. the goods may be put back in the same dye bath. like many other dyes.North 776
Cent. without removing the
article itself. Old and worn curtains. do not throw away the solution until goods are dry. they should all be otherwise a variety of shades would be
In discharging or removing old colors from material that has been previously dyed. thus saving
It is advisable. Ohio
Snow Flake Hand Laundry
The Cedar Cleaning Works
same shade. This can be accomplished by boiling the goods.
two or three
Res. when dyeing.
becomes discolored. you can use the same dye for any vegetable nature.
several pieces are to be dyed
put in the dye bath at the same time.
In taking goods from the dye bath. Dyeing
Fine Lingerie and Lace Curtains Specialties
and Feather Work
2420 Cedar Ave. the result will be a green. where without dyeing they would be useless. They are easy and simple to use. Phone. and dyed a deeper shade. Unlike the old-time
easier to handle than the old-fashioned dry
whether it be of animal or dyes.
ALL WORK GUARANTEED
Fannie Hamlet. do not crowd the goods.
Many old or shabby garments can be dyed and renovated and made over and months of service gotten from them. and do not stain the hands.
2336 E. but keep them moving by stirring occasionally with
stick. so that in case the desired shade is not obtained. if cotton or silk. Princt 2906-L
. The best plan is to try a small piece of goods
necessary. 90th Street
and are much cleaner and
dyes. it is always best to discharge or remove as much of the old color as possible. to see if the desired shade is obtained. for instance. rugs. Boil from one-half to three-quarters of an hour in a bath containing soap. Prop.
changing the water when
times. as it is The color of the impossible to dye a dark colored fabric a lighter color. Do not expect to dye a dark piece of goods a light shade.
and see the result.
fabric. so that it may be taken out from time to time. piece of material in with the larger pieces.
instances a few precautions in dyeing you must always follow. you have a yellow dress and use a blue dye.
which you are about to dye has nearly as much effect on the result as the dye you use. to put a small time and additional expense.
making them appear as good as new.
. making them much easier and cleaner to handle than the old fashioned powder dyes. Rugs.
FULL DIRECTIONS ON EACH TUBE.When removing
soften the wool.. may be dyed. as the
newly dyed material
uniform. Feathers. as
of old color
that have been previously dyed. etc. no soap should be used. Raffia.
color from wool. Linens. Silks. Wools.
come discharging when
THE ONE DYE FOR ALL FABRICS
For dyeing Cotton. Peacock Dyes are put up in collapsible tubes. Tablecovers. Chipped Straw. owing to
article is put into the
some of new color. Basketry. worn and shabby Clothes. By the use of Peacock Dyes in the household a great many old. Curtains. Mixed Goods. etc.
It is a scientific Washing Compound to be used in connection with any good Laundry Soap in accordance with directions printed on each package. and will not injure any fabric. S.. and restores all the original brilliancy of color without injury. One 25 cent can will clean any common sized rug or carpet without rinsing or removing from the floor.
Co. Ask your grocer for it also. that articles washed with last twice as long as when rubbed. which does wonderful work. It contains no Lye or Acid. with full directions for using. or perhaps
pieces which one prizes very
highly and one desires to have done at home. yet there are always numberless small things.
. is not a Soap nor a Soap Powder. Cents in stamps and we will mail you. learned by practical experience that it saves the hard labor of rubbing and dispenses with the washboard.
you are not now using
0. Cleveland.LAUNDERING. Curtains or personal apparel. whether they be Table Linen. delicate texture or color. postpaid.
In this present day of good laundries the hardest and most laborious part of
work can be
sent away. sufficient for four family washings.
also manufacture CARPET CLEANER.
1120 Prospect Ave. It is invaluable
YOUR LAUNDRY WORK
by most Grocers. send us Ten package from your Grocer. E.
You must be most
careful in this
SETTLES THE WASH-DAY QUESTION
NO LYE NO ACID
SOLD BY GROCERS
YOU SHOULD USE ELWAKO
Because thousands of other women have in your weekly washing. not gray or yellow. or those
ot a dainty. a package of regular size.. and that it makes white clothes WHITE.
If he does not keep it.
being sure that nothing with
put with the all-white clothes. sprinkle with tepid
and leave for
one hour. as they will turn your clothes yellow and fade and cause the colors to run.
blow about and tear or become stretched out of shape.
coarser from the finer
you have a large number of pieces.
being sure that the corners are well fastened. acid or substance of any' kind which will injure the most delicate fabric.
Seventh. and it will make your clothes clean and whte with a Further.work. for you can wear your articles out more by rubbing them over a rough washboard than you would wear them out in a week of almost constant service.
over your clothes. be careful to get good saving of labor.'' as it positively contains no lye.
you have a good laundry soap many of the cheaper soaps.
North 975 Central 3280-W
Prospect Avenue and East 14th Street
A Particular Laundry for
. bluing and good starch and if possible have your clothes hanged out of doors.
Then always use
aid. are worse than worthless.
the boiler with the clothes.
Second. where they can get the full benefit of the air and sun.
First. but over night
better.— -Starch and hang on
so the articles will not
one small cake of Elwako and one bar of any good laundry three pints of water and boil and stir until they are thoroughly
two tubs of tepid
from 20 to 30 minutes and wrinse thoroughly through one or water and then through bluing water. time and wear on your clothing.
blended. for a badly laundered article
worthless to a particular or refined woman. taking precautions to always keep the garment
form or you may render
unsightly by ironing out of shape.
with great care.
wrung out of
the cold water. sort the and wash the finer first. and soak white pieces in cold water
. We suggest the use of "Elwako.
remove the dirt and stains and germs without the unnecessary labor of rubbing. that you get on bargain counters.
4. does not make drunkards or a craving for stimulants.
asked hundreds of times daily honest
Before using a treatment a sensible woman wants to know what she is using she is perfectly justified in demanding an honest and straightforward answer. rational. and given entire satisfaction. for nearly
women." as do some of the cheap. Zoa-Phora begins at the seat of your trouble and builds up every part of your body. composition. opiates. plain. relieved and cured the very worst forms of Female Trouble and ailments peculiar to women.—
Zoa-Phora" THIS question "What women seeking asked by intelligent
reply. Does not this prove that Zoa-Phora is beyond question all that it is claimed to be? Write today and we will send you a copy of its formula.
Zoa-Phora contains only the best and purest
Positively the best ingredients
1. Zoa-Phora is Nature's own restorative and cure. are not afraid to publish to every woman and to every physician and to the whole world.
7. Our remedies are used by the thinking class of women throughout the United States and we are giving you a few reasons why you are safe in choosing Zoa-Phora in preference to all other remedies and why you are guaranteed satisfaction.
your druggist has no
box for you have him
With the purchase
of one Dollar-size bottle of Zoa-Phora the bearer is entitled to a full ten days' special treatment of the Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Cones which the Zoa-Phora Company are supplying the drug trade free of charge for this purpose.
write us. Zoa-Phora contains no alcohol positively not one drop is used. It does not make "drug fiends. It is indeed (Woman's Friend). narcotics. harmful drugs.
on the market. Zoa-Phora does not contain minerals. that you have found a treatment perfected to the limit of modern medical discovery.
. It is manufactured only of the best and most valuable roots and herbs known to science.
In addition to the splendid tonic effects of Zoa-Phora many women need a good local treatment and in order to encourage the use of our Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones in all cases when needed we are making the following offer of a full Ten Days' Treatment of our Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones (further information on page 79 of this book). Zoa-Phora is a vegetable compound. one of the greatest Specialists of his age in the treatment of the diseases of women.
a satisfactory. Maiden.
Present this coupon to your nearest druggist. just what Zoa-Phora is compounded of. No opiates or narcotics to suddenly deaden your pain and in time ruin your nervous system. If you want to be cured.
patent medicine— not some dope handed down by an the prescription of Dr. inferior preparations
Zoa-Phora is not an ordinary ignorant layman. The following indisputable evidence will convince the most skeptical of the merits and value of Zoa-Phora. and you will then know to your own satisfaction and benefit just what Zoa-Phora really is. No alcohol in it to Zoa-Phora is excite the nervous system and make you feel fine for a few hours and then leave you weak and exhausted. give Zoa-Phora a chance to do its good work.
to cure. or any dangerous or 5.
8. Zoa-Phora 3.
of diseases of
the market for the treatment 50 years. No expense is spared in modern medical science are used in
Zoa-Phora is not a secret formula. Wife. and Grandmother find it the best woman's especially the sexual organism. therefore. but Zoa-Phora is
2. Mother. When you know what Zoa-Phora really is you will be convinced if you are suffering with any form of disease peculiar to women.
one of the oldest reliable preparations on
It has. tonic to carry them safely through the various changes of womanhood. Pengelly.
Standard Drug Stores Purity Drug Co.50 .
Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora
Zoa-Phora (Woman's Friend)
Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones
Lakewood and Detroit Avenue the
can be procured from
Lindsley Drug Co.00
Cold Remedy La Grippe Remedy
Marshall Drug Stores
Co. 4706 Detroit Avenue Wilson Drug Co. 18503 Detroit Avenue
today to your nearest druggist and procure the remedies you need and send the faces from the packages direct to
These beautiful teaspoons axe of
the favorite Narcissus pattern.DEC
Set of Silver Teaspoons Free To Users of Zoa-Phora
Send us the front of the carton or box from any one of the packages in each of three divisions below arranged and
SIX TRIPLE PLATED.. best triple plated. etc.. OHIO
procure Zoa-Phora from every including the
Cleveland. which means one Zoa-Phora (Woman's Friend) wrapper and your choice of any one of the remedies in Number Two and one from Number Three.25 .
The Zoa-Phora Remedies
Not One Cent to Pay
Send us the three wrappers or cartons as indicated above. 16924 Detroit Avenue Dole. FULLY WARwill
be sent you by return mail. and will wear a life time. 15621 Detroit Avenue Ludwig Pharmacy.25 .25
Digestive Tablets Stomach and Liver Pills Anti-Constipation Pills -
. 11600 Detroit Avenue Alford Crocker. fully warranted.
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
014 080 524 5
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
014 080 524 5