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Coates Sewing and
Dress Making Manual
COATES & COMPANY
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A loose-fitting net lining for light. white your waist. has hooks and eyes. silk Corsica. $3. or lace waists on high. PRACTICAL HELPS FOR THE HOME or Made / .50 to $4. chiffon. greatly improve appearance garment. Black or white. back. Grean Shoulder Form and Pad 327-329 East 34th Street. clever pad. of thoroughly shrunken linen canvas reinforced with hair-cloth and felt. HEAVILY COVERED WITH PURE SILK FLOSS. A— Perfected. guaranteed collar supports. shaped. B— Produce of any shoulder effect desired. lias hooks and eyes. pliable. Work and Worry almost finished lining for tight-fitting waists. (1) front for long coat. white or black. washable. silk *l DO. write us. "G" Co. ready for draping.00. 50 cents to $1.. for short coats. 35 and 50 cents. invisible.^ DRESSMAKING SPECIALTIES Without Shoulder Form Long ci loulder Ready] cms Made Pitied "Waist Lining EAL. (new). sealed to insure cleanliness. SI. Bray.. or nlack percaline.00 (CSS) Eton front.open front or hack. has Collar Support at If you cannotobtain GREAN SPECIALTIES We supply you dealer and send you will your dealer's. Order by exact size of Linolawn. and the Professional Dressmaker. Money. New York Page 1 . 15 cents a pair. nor after hours of tiring effort obtain the perfect they insure. 75 cents. not bust measurement. C— Tailor made. 3 for 10 cents. D— "GREANET" InvisibleV&isi Foundaiion ] E— Perfect rust F— Very SilkCovered armhole. Designed for the trade and now sold in leading Dry Goods Stores everywhere. boned. 00. in transparent envelopes. cotton. Carefully manufactured of best materials for correct tailoring of garments in prevailing styles. seamless belt. on new principle. You cannot make anyone of these essentials for anywhere near the price. proof. Write Dept. direct or through a reliable a catalogue oj other dressmaking helps. 75c. 5 for 15 cents. very helpful in altering or reinforcing fronts. boned with hasted seams ahove. 15 cents a pair. Use one or all and fit Coat Fronls \ Save Time. if Money you are not satisfied. fills in usual hollows around overlapping padded points for shoulders.
— Fagot Stitch 13. 31. GUjrato Nutnttan IpII Eaat 541 13TB East mtlf fctrwt COATES SEWING AND DRESS MAKING MANUAL Published by Coates Advertising Agency.— Blanket Stitch 24.—Satin Stitch (French broidery) 8 37.— PLAIN AND FANCY STITCHES. 22 22 23 24 24 24 24 24 24 24 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 51.— Feather Stitch 19.— Rolled 53. Cleveland.— Slant 6. 36. -WORKING INSTRUCTIONS. Page 5 6 30. EmIS. 35.— Long and Short Stitch 20. 47. 27 28 28 28 29 Copyright 1912 by Lydia Trattles Coates Page 2 . Stays and Collar — Putting Supports — Marking of Linen and Underwear — Embroidery Designs in in . 57.- 61.— Punch Work 16.— Button Hole Stitch 25. 3.— Felled Seam — Bound Seam — Strap Seam 45. 60. .'. 4. 27.'.. Lesson 29.. 59.— Shirring 56. (£.— Outline Stitch 8.— Couch Stitch 1 1.— Welt Seam — Lapped Seam — French Seam — Hemming —To Hem Corners — Damask Hem 46.—TO HOLD THE GOODS 3. Emblems and Monograms — Eyelets — —To and Eyelet Embroidery 14 16 16 16 16 17 17 18 54.— Cable Stitch 10.— Chain Stitch 9. Make Buttonholes 20 — ery Embroidery — Setting on Lace or and Eyes — Sewing Hooks 27.— French Knots 14.— Piping 40. 14.. 26.. — Knot —Running Stitch — Basting — Backstitch — Overcasting Stitch 6 6 7 7 7 33. and Overhanding 7 7.— Tucks and Pleats 55. .— Cross Stitch 18. 44. . 50.— INTRODUCTION 2.— Braiding 28. 2.—Ruffles 26. Page 21 21 21 . 48.— Catch Stitch 12.'.'. 8 8 9 10 10 10 11 11 11 43.— Damask Stitch 16. 49.— Solid Embroidery 21.IttHtntfittfltt —loral Beginners' Voices Carefully Built and Trained lira. — Facings — Gathering Hem 26 26 26 26 27 27 22. 5. 34. 52.— Seed Stitch 1 5. 4. ".— Embroidery Scallops. 62..— Double Folds 38. . 41. 32. Sewing on Lace or Embroid58. Lesson 1 .- — Sewing on Buttons — Loops — Darning — Stoting — Patching — Overhand Patch" — Bands and Folds . Chevrons. Ohio CONTENTS 1.— Hem Stitch 17.. 23.— Milliner's Fold 39.- 12 13 13 13 — Cording — Seams 42.
— Children's 105.Inatruflton Expression Literature Interpretation Pantomime Harmonic Training Art of Play Writing and Criticism iFlomtrp Hartlja itaaett (Swr^r) Graduate of Harroff School of Expression. 83. Curry. 77. (A) — The Well Groomed Woman.— SCHOOL Lesson " " 14 101. 75. 99. 86. 89. 100.. ness 72- 90. FOR 42 42 43 44 45 45 43- Kimonas 87.— Sleeves 70. Boston Dr. — Lesson — Fitting and Alterations.— LAUNDERING 3 88 91 93 86 86 87 93 92 94 Page .— MILADY'S WORDROBE (A) — Corsets (B)— Sanitary Belts (C) — Sanitary Skirt Protectors.— High Collars 67.— Shirt Waists 91.— Dress 12. President Bell Doan 1369-R 9608 Hough Avenue CONTENTS 5.— Pockets Traveling Skirts and Busi- 46 47 47 96.—Turn Down Collars 69.— Girl's -Gowns 104. . 57 58 60 61 61 62 63 64 64 —Rompers Coats 15. 80. 8. Lesson 97. — Maternity Corsets —Maternity Gowns — Maternity Skirts GIRLS' SUPPLIES. Lesson Lesson 74. — Street. — AND 48 48 49 MATERNITY OUTFIT. (B) — Scientific Beauty Culture 5811.— NECESSARY (A) MAKING ACCESSORIES (B)—Threads (C)— Sewing Thread (D) (E) SEWING AND Page DRESS30 30 30 31 313431 33 — Sewing Machine (F)— Linings (G)— Patterns — Embroidery Thread Hooks and Eyes (H)— Tape (I)— Dress (J) 35 35 Shields 39- 36 37 —Dress Form —Dress Trimmings 6.— Aprons — — Lingerie Waists — Housekeeping Gowns — Evening and Dinner Gowns. 65. — Children's 136..— CUTTING.5410.— Shirt Waist Sleeves 71. 72 74 75 75 7.— DYEING 18.— Making of Gowns 92. 16. 82 83 83 84 85 85 . Costumes and Coats 77- 95. SHRINKING ING. 110. 93. 64..— Girl's School Dress 103. Lesson " " 102..— Coat Sleeve 73. 88. 66. —Boning 38 40 41 — Shirt Waist Supporter — Rain Coat and Waterproof Garments Lesson — Corset Covers — Drawers " — Chemise " 81. (D)— Millinery (E) — Lingerie 76.— Tailored Collars 68. —The Young Lady's Dresses — Maternity Outfit Wardrobe 9.— COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS SPECIFIC WORK Lesson — Plackets —Belts and Bands —Yoke and Peplums (K) (L) 63. 94..—THE WELL GROOMED WOMAN. Page 64 65 66 66 67 67 67 68 68 68 69 70 71 71 84..— Petticoats — Skirts and Underwear Without Plackets — Dressing Sacques (F) (G) " 78.— Night Gowns — Combination Undergarments.- —Jackets 76 76 78 79 80 81 81 PRESS50 50 51- — Sponging -Pressing 98.— Children's Underwear Outfit. Cuffs and Lap Closings 72. — Making of Dinner Gowns. 82. 85.— FITTING AND ALTERATIONS. Cutting 53 —CHILDREN'S CLOTHES.— INFANT'S OUTFIT Lesson — Making the Infant's " 107. Cleveland and Graduate of School of Expression. 79.— SPONGING. and Shrinking 13.— CLEANING 17.
337 Old Arcade INDEX TO ADVERTISERS Page Adair. Miss L... (Osteopathic Physician) Morehouse Co Noteman. E. (Woven Names) Reis Initial Co. by all means secure one of Dr. R. Ellen C. ' .. Co. Margaret B. Sanche's Oxydonor's and by the use of it as directed. N. Pictoral Pictorial J. Ohio.. Phone. (Katharos) Ellsworth Public Hand Laundry Reis Initial Co. performs which border on miracles. Frank (Dentist) Electra Pure Water Co. C. (Piano Instruction) 58 20 60 93 42 73 3 ' Co G. G. & Co Lawson School of Music Lickes Drug Co. etc. (Peacock Carlton Monks. Mrs.. Young Women's Zoa Phora Co Christian 57. (Morlene) Korach. 6 44 60 47 1 Vacuum 20 55 89 13 77 78 54 35 45 48 55 Grean Arm Pad Grean Fitted Belt Griffith Warner Hat Shoppe Warren Featherbone Co White Sewing Machine Co Wilson Dress Hook Co Wright. if you want pREE— Books on Health. (Embroidery Catalog). (Embroidery Initials) 74 50 39 65 94 14 29 28 18 19 71 Richardson Silk Facial College Elwako Mfg. F. (Linings) Belle Vernon Dairy Co Berner's Art Store Boston Dry Goods Co B. Co. Hall. Spinal Trouble. B. Thus writes Are you suffering from Rheumatism. Diabetes. (Fashion Book) B. (Sanitary Protectors) American Textile Mfg. Co. (Dust Bright) 59 63 10 Page Hawley Restaurant Henke Furniture Co Hexter's Lining Store Ideal Faucet Syringe Co Interstate Drug Co. 68 9 72 41 46 54 37 11 Review Co. 76. even if all else has failed. 69 63 16 76 91 15 8. Maud De Long (Dermatologist) Smith Carriage & Auto Co Smith Chemical Co.. Co.. W. or are any of your family suffering from disease? If so. Cleveland Credit Clothing Co Cleveland Dress Trimming Co College of Science (Acme) Connelly Co. Oxydonor will do it. Restaurant Co.. Pneumatic Form Co. & C. F. (Elwako Laundry Aid) Euclid Cafetiere (Lunch Club) Farr. 29 21 34 23 12 17 7 Arbor Tea Shop Art Pleating Shoppe Baird Bros.. Review Co. invented by Dr. (Book and Art Exchange). Wm. (Ganesh Toilet Preparation) A. Co. Pioneer Mfg. Stroud. The C. (Dentist) Bryson Co. 13. but as and setting of the sun. Miller. Ohio Office Furniture Co 91 5 Oxydonar Parrish... Sanche for the purpose of healing the sick. infallible as the daily rising Investigate. & & Sons Co. Co. Co. M. (Dunham's Specific) Long. H. Mrs. E. No. Van Gorder (Havanco Mending Tissue) Haserot Co.. Dr. Mfg. Co. * Call or Send 10 Cents for Postage. Grean Shoulder Form and Pad Grean Dress Making Specialties Grean Long Coat Front Foundation Grean Short Coat Front Foundation Grean's "Greanet" Grean Fitted Waist Lining Grean Coat Collars Fassett... 4 P. 95.. Main 730 Ohio Agency. & P. & Co. (Naiad Dress Shield) Continental Casualty Co Creme de Luxe Cummer Products Co. H. . cures. (Sewing Machine Supplies) Studio (Art Work) Cedar Cleaning Works Chandler. 64 38 66 32 36 62 83 96 Page 4 . Wright. Co. Raynolds Co. Stomach Trouble. (Energine Shoe Dressing) Devoe.OXYDONOR "This wonderful little appliance. (Senora Coffee) 24 22 24 Wm. (Embroidery Silk) Belding Bros. The process is natural and very simple. T. Mrs. (Wrinkle Eradicators) 64 26 61 64 5 84 64 52 80 40 56 56 33 2 5 31 8 34 25. (Manicuring and Chiropody)." Edward Rigby of Lisbon.. (Sleeve Initials) Reis Initial Co. (Domestic Cleaner) Swalley's Credit Store Telling Co. health. (Sanitary Belt). 31. C. A. (Monarch Polish) Basch.. Nervousness. Abbie E. (Real Estate) Conover. (Cravenette) 60 88 9 Dye) Dowd. Priestley. (Ice Cream) Universal Dry Cleansing Co Victor Insect Exterminating Co 43 75 & Florence Martha (Expression) Frederick Piano Co Fries & Schuele Fulton. (Embroidery Scallops) Reis Initial Co. you will be restored to health. (Public Stenographer). (Tape) Sons Co. Mandarin. Rosenblum Clothing Co Sanar Remedy Co (Attorneys at Law) Shop of Kimonas and Art Laces Skalla. Mrs. E. 55. Association 7. Chester (Vocal Instruction). (Funeral Director).. & C. L. The May. & (Shino) (Dress Form) Co. Berthe (Corsets) 86 19 53 58 51 II May Co.. T. Joseph. David (Shirtwaist Belts) Battle Creek Sanitarium Food Co Belding Bros. ("Hair Vim") Snow Flake Laundry Shaver. (Sewing Silk) Belding Bros. 30. E.
. etc. E. 111-112 Old Arcade .Public Stenographer Duplicating Filing Devices Tables. On the other hand if they know just how to go ahead and have each step made plain for them to follow they could add many beautiful garments to To be sure much that is very helpful their wardrobe at a very small cost. Quigley Desks Chairs Armor-Clad Steel Furniture Cuspidors and other Office Furniture Murphy & Gunlocke Miss L. has been written on the subject of sewing and many of our best magazines have given us invaluable information. Thus dressmaking will become an Art and a Science and a pleasure instead of a nerveracking. S. Ohio 429 The Arcade North 1450 I. using herself as the model and her materials. but many women do not preserve these periodicals or have not the time to wade through all the other literature and sometimes a labyrinth of instructions to find out the system of properly cutting out and putting together and finishing a dress or suit or piece of underwear or perhaps doing up a piece of household sewing. without as complete a wardrobe as they would like to have or pay out more money than they feel that they should spare to get . trimmings. INTRODUCTION. as the means of presenting to the world her ideal of thought. 1145 Prospect Ave. THE OHIO OFFICE Chandler Central 332 1-K Main 1368 FURNITURE Bell. non-individual clothes simply because they do not know exactly how to cut and fit and make and finish the articles of their apparel and without complete instructions before them do not feel like risking the time and the material in experimenting. simple and comprehensible set of Sewing and Dress Making Lessons have been compiled without waste of words or unnecessary repetitions. L. LAXATIVE BRAN BISCUITS "The samples you gave do the work ine were delicious" BATTLE CREEK SANITARIUM FOOD Page 5 CO. laboritheir — ous piece of drudgery... We have made the system as brief and as easy as possible and by following faithfully the instructions and always turning to the lessons designated you will find that you have a reliable guide to the making of every essential garment for your wardrobe. Cleveland. Many women go garments made or are forced to wear unbecoming. Sewing is an art and the woman who clothes herself with an eye to bringing out the possibilities of her grace and beauty and best points of individuality. CO. and hiding any possible defects of her contour or carriage will work as an artist. For this reason this plain.
left hand. Always take stitch under the hem or seam to hide knot but in open space where this is not possible fasten thread by taking two or three stitches over each other or — KNOT.—Thread AND ORNAMENTAL STITCHES. . F. Basting Stitch. The Lesson 2.$200 Sound Proof Demonstrating Parlors Experienced Salesmen. Sit up straight. . leaving the right hand Never hold the work so as to crush and free with which to do the stitches.— stitches through the cloth should It will be of exact and equal length. hold the work firmly in the left hand. be in constant use for seams on light etc. 3. needle with proper sized thread and hold in Wind thread once over forefinger of right hand and pull tightly. hemming of fragile garments. Lesson Stitch. FANCY Lesson 1. and do not form the bad habit of pinning the work to your skirts and then humping over to do it or winding seams over the forefinger of your left hand. CHAPTER PLAIN.. by backstitching (Lesson 4). French seams. Knots should never be visible in any sewing except in basting.CHAPTER III. TO HOLD THE GOODS. materials. Try Our Superior Service Today. 1612 EUCLID AVENUE Page 6 . Running 2. -. Always hold the goods in a position so the stitches are taken toward you. The Proof of the Pudding is in the Eating The Proof of "Frederick Service" In the Trying is Every Record Every Victrola $15. (1) (2) Slant Stitch.— RUNNING STITCH. . (3) (4) Lesson Hemstitch.->.oOOCNO''. gathering. W. FREDERICK PIANO CO. crumble it nor yet so loosely that the stitches are taken unevenly. but learn and practice holding and doing your work properly and sitting erect. Lesson 5. IV. Lesson 17..
(See cut 1. Lesson 4. The half back stitch is taken half way back between the space of where the thread is drawn through and where the stitch leaves off on the upper side. Lay your cloth perfectly in place and then fasten by taking even or uneven running stitches through the material as in cut. then take a short back stitch back on the upper side and a long stitch forward on the under side. Lesson 3. handing are to have needle point at exact depth and be exact distance between each stitch.—The Lesson 5.— Begin at the right and work toward the left. Ohio All branches of Music and Dramatic Art taught in a thorough. page 6). Point the needle toward the left shoulder and pass it through a few folds of the material and a few threads of the fold. Insert the needle under the fold. Lesson 6. Beginners or Advanced Pupils Private or Class Lessons Day or Evening Jim Best Instruction Moderate Prices Page 7 .— BACKSTITCH.—Take a few running stitches (see Lesson 2). Ohio West Side Branch Franyin and West 32nd Home Nursing Home Making Chafing Dish St. practical and artistic manner.— Baste material with edges exactly even or if single trim smooth and even. Hold your goods with the edges which you are sewing on toward you. varying the distance between stitches according to the quality and thickness The two important features of perfect overcasting or overof the material. From under side draw needle through cloth exact depth to be overcasted or overhanded and take stitch over and through twice to hold firmly. CIk Cawson School of music and Other Tine 10507 Superior Avenue Cleveland. using two or three stitches to hold (never knot under a fold). —BASTING. Voice Culture of both the singing and speaking voice a specialty. Begin next stitch exactly where last stitch left off on upper side of sewing (see cut 1). Making Trade Class Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister Cooking fundamental principle of all good fitting and adjusting lies in the proper basting. Use Slant Stitch (see Lesson 5).— OVERCASTING AND OVERHANDING.— SLANT STITCH.Sewing Millinery Apply to the Cookery Dining Room Service Dietetics Dressmaking Tailoring Shirt Waist Young Women's Christian Association Prospect Avenue and East 18th Cleveland. This is one of the most particular lessons in sewing as every stitch must be exactly the same in height and distance apart. progressive.
New Process Embroidery Silk and every conceivable shade. If and we will BELDING BROS. Belding's teed fast dve. in eight different twists. instead of at Page 8 . except that drawn through at the side. bringing needle through one stitch distance ahead and proceed as before.Have You Tried T^T lriLLlllVJO ICECREAM? Lesson 7.— Start have left New York at City Lesson 8. thread under thumb form loop. side of the Take each stitch back two threads on the precedtightly.American STITCH.— Take even stitches. 528 Broadway STITCH.— CABLE STITCH. Lesson 9.— The the cable as the chain stitch needle is made almost exactly Lesson 8). guaranus. & CO. of the previous stitch. holding your work with the needle pointing toward you and always keeping the thread on the same needle.— OUTLINE T TTVT/^O French . take a short stitch through the material.— CHAIN the top of your design and always your needle to point a towards needle through material. half stitch is (see way back the center." write tell you where it can be obtained. ing stitch and draw rather yet not enough to wrinkle the goods. your dealer does not carry "Belding's. hold down Draw you.
The "New" Pictorial Review Embroidery Catalog is filled with ideas and suggestions of interest to any It is woman who em- broiders or does fancy work. either the These may be obtained Transfer or Perforated Patterns Purchase a copy today at any newsdealer. or The May Co. Underin not forgetting the exquisite designs for wear. N. SUITS. profusely illustrated and contains designs for all the various kinds of embroideries. —'Couching thread at is made by apart laying straight lines equal distances across the design. —COUCH of STITCH. by mail. Y. Pictorial Fully explained and illustrated in linen. Etc.Lesson 10. BELTS. such as Eyelet. Solid and Outline Including numerous designs for the popular Braid Work and the Punched Embroidery. COSTUMES. Hold the threads in place with your left hand and fasten them to the material with small stitches on the right side. New York. Price 10 cents. SKIRT PANELS. and Infants' and Children's Wear. Add 15 cents for The New Pictorial Review Embroidery Catalog. Send 20 cents for a sample of this work begun on special and one large needles. 15 cents THE PICTORIAL REVIEW COMPANY THE PICTORIAL REVIEW BUILDING 222 West 39th Street. having the stitches in each row fall between those of the opposite row. Are all illustrated. SHIRT WAISTS. New The New of the Review Embroidery Catalog. Seed. many DOILIES. HAND BAGS. Page 9 . Satin.
LONG teach or paint to order.Art We do stencil Work oil. Birthday.— HEMSTITCHING. Lesson 14. Lesson Protect -Yourself .—The back seed stitch is made by taking small stitches covering the leaf or petals of a design or in monogram. Cleveland. 1. THE ELLEN and C. pastel or crayon.Mgr.Breadwinner Then when the unforseen. (See Lesson 11. stitches The rows must be evenly spaced and the each row falling midway between those of the rows at either side of them.) 16. your cash income does not stop just when you most need it. At the place where the threads cross catch to thread desired down with the cross stitch.— Draw the required number of threads Hold the hem and turn hem and baste exactly below last thread drawn. unexpected piece of bad luck comes.— DAMASK needle across STITCH. Paints for china 10c and 15c each. O. wrong side and bring the through pattern to carrying When the be worked.— Fasten up the thread on right side. needle under and through the hem. Wedding. and ask us to tell you today and let us explain or call up CENTRAL WHAT FIVE CENTS PER DAY WILL DO FOR YOU. water-color. Lesson 15. Dainty Cards. page 6. china decorating and firing. Congratulations for Birth Carlton Studio 1430 Announcements and other special occasions.Watt. Be positively and safely provided for by the largest Health and Accident Insurance Company in the world.— SEED STITCH. for exact position of needle).and . of the hem. Schofield Bldg. and draw the needle through to the right of the group and take a short stitch in the fold (See cut No. FRAMING A SPECIALTY.. CONTINENTAL CASUALTY CO. group from three toward you. also teach work. High Grade Stationery.the . We insure both Men and Women. W. Anniversary.E. Come in 2357 -W. laid draw through in the number of threads have been opposite direction at even distances apart another set of threads. 358 The Arcade SICKNESS OR AN ACCIDENT MAY COME TOMORROW ACT TODAY — Page 11 . insert the to as many threads as are desired (always the same number). pictures in Book ana Art exchange 31 Taylor Arcade Monogram Work.
possible misrepresentation case Morlene relieves the able conditions accompanying Goitre and gives entire satisfaction to how bad or how long standing. Double Chin. we will say that in every dangerous and disagree92% of all cases. Thick Neck or Goitre by Tumors and for the sake of a better appearance the Double Chin. Morlene is not an experiment. have relatives or friends who it. to avoid will cure any case of Goitre. Ohio Page .— CROSS is STITCH. so it is always best to get rid of any enlargements about the throat whether they be Goitre. They should know about if he wants your trade. no matter tions is unsightly and disagreeable. If he fails send us SI. Tumors. and it often produces dangerous condiaffecting the eyes. are. 50 and we will promptly deliver a full size package containing a sufficient quantity for an ordinary treatment of 30 days.— The cross stitch simply bringing one stitch across the angle of the other. its effectiveness has been thoroughly proven. you are not tell them afflicted but of Morlene. therefore we want every person afflicted with Goitre and similar troubles to know that there is a remedy which is really a success in If 92% of all cases.Lesson 17. Your druggist can supply you MANUFACTURED ONLY BY The Interstate Drug Company 12 Cleveland. the breathing or the blood flow to and from the brain. Enlarged Joints. GOITRE will disappear when treated with MORLENE Also Thick Neck. to say the least. Inflammations The above statement has been so thoroughly proven that we are almost tempted to say Morlene However.
one-half the dis- tance depth as the succeeding one. and two stitches to the left. —then Boats.— FEATHER tailor's STITCH— BRIAR STITCH. Happily the White experts came to the rescue with this remarkable device THREAD CAST-OFF THE White Rotary Thread machine — SANITATION HEALTH HAPPINESS Our method is of fumigation and insect extermination absolutely the most up-to-date and efficient method in use. long and short stitch in successive rows until the design entirely filled . 426 PROSPECT Both Phones Victor Insect 351 The Arcade Exterminating Co. are at your service. It should be fumigated by our method once a year it will be clean and healthful. thread stitch down directly on downward to left the of the mark or mark line and hold with thumb and take short or line and repeat taking stitch. ONLY No powder dust left — No poison— No bad odors.—LONG AND SHORT STITCH — stitch Follow exact instructions as slant 5). Warehouses. mice. (See cut). bedding. (see Lesson except that one stitch in is taken. Let us hear from you. rs^J Lesson 20. left line. rats. There's no time like the present to look the White over. with pencil or Lesson 18. Knot bring thread. Hotels. is The double feather or briar stitch is made by taking two stitches to the right of one while the triple feather stitch right and three to the left. O.— Is Page 13 made by using is the in. Talk about trouble why. etc.— the the only is equipped with a Cast-off. Penetrates through plastering. first on the right then on the left. insects. Churches and Stores of all germs. instead made by taking three stitches to the Lesson 19. Our experts Our methods are used & B. White Sewing Machine Co. etc. Thread Cast-off (it's exclusively White) and the difficulty vanished as if DON'T NEGLECT YOUR HOME by magic. and you can imagine the annoyance it has caused the operator. manufacturers of Rotary machines have had a world of trouble with the thread tangling in the shuttle race. hold thread take a short stitch through and to the right side of down with the mark or thumb.— Mark thread along the line chalk or run a colored to be followed.— SOLID EMBROIDERY. to say nothing of the loss of time in trying to get the machine to work right. bring needle through to right side. CLEVELAND. exclusively on the C. It's just another instance of White superiority. It is the method endorsed by the Government experts of all nations. We rid Boats. and recommended by the State Medical authorities as being the only absolute remedy known to Science. upholstered furniture.
620 Broadway. boilings and ironings that the article on which they are embroidered will withstand.Lesson 21. New York Page 14 . The material in their composition is of European origin. Lesson22. page IS.— (French Embroidery)— The or Initials. Our standing offer is as follows: "We Will Pay for Any Garment Injured Gumbac Foundations Through Washing or Re!s by Reis Ironing. Remarkable as it may seem. Just moisten the back and stick on. new Sold at the Art Counter of Any Department Store Reis Initials.— Fasten thread by running and back stitches.— EMBROIDERY SCALLOP STITCH. They are very simple. The cut shown in Lesson 25.ed des'gns the letters. Nor will they discolor or harm the finest fabric.— SATIN STITCH. we guarantee that they will retain their shape and appearance through all the washings. Hold thread under left thumb forming loop. especially silk will add to when working mono- Block Old English — easily accomplished 2-cent by interlacing Send us your name. of embroidery their attractiveness. and work over with That's all. LEARN AX OUR EXPENSE How easily the most inexperienced sewer can create perfectly stunning effects in embroidery with the new Reis Gumbac Foundations Scallops." 1J 4 Gumbac Scallops come in six styles— 26 patterns. Underlaying and Basting difficulties eliminated. Reis' Letters and Scallops make embroidering simply delightful with the Stamping. If you can thread a needle you can successfully use them. the scallops or embroidered edge vary according to the Often the depths of pattern or design to be worked and the outline must be very carefully followed. booklets. Take stitch through material depth desired with needle pointing downward. We will send turn our In Sizes from % inch to 10 Inches. yards REIS FOUNDATION LETTERS Are made Script in three styles: Harmonizing colors gramrr. You will use the Satin Stitch in making in the Chevrons. Draw needle through loop and repeat taking every stitch very closely together so no gap appears between the stitches. REIS' FOUNDATION Letters and Scallops They add that much help to make your wearing apparel and household linen distinctively rich. silk or cotton. Reis Gumbac Foundations are not made of ordinary paper or even papier mache. and in satin stitch is the stitch taken straight across from one edge to the other of the design or taken on a slant from one edge to the opposite edge. desired tone of expressive charm— an indication of character— the "intangible something" of which a woman can well be proud. and retail at a uniform price of 10c per card of to the small sizes and S of a yard to the large. sample strips of scallops and samples of the Reis Letters in your initial. a name of a dealer in your city stamp and the who would most you in re- likely handle our goods. many other designs so much vogue at the present time. shows the exact position of the needle.
15 STROUD CO. pleasant and easy way. With these attachments you have a cleaner with every advantage of an electric machine at a little greater cost than the best Bissell Carpet Sweeper. Lesson 22. E. & C. The old method is to buy a transfer pattern or hire the stamping done. For free demonstration phone Main 2463. or come to our office. 510 The Arcade Page Cleveland. Ohio . Then a running stitch must be very carefully taken at the exact line desired to indicate the depth. etc. THE B. cabinet built and will the only hand cleaner The DOMESTIC is with attachments for cleaning Mattresses. old. or Central 8258 K. is The DOMESTIC last a lifetime.THE OLD WAY TO EMBROIDER SCALLOPS. When your foundation is completed then embroider according to embroidery scallop is is There and there an a stitch. is only Vacuum Cleaner with Full Ball-Bearings and a BaliBearing Adjustable Roller under the suction the plate for light or The DOMESTIC heavy cleaning. Then you must pad your scallops with the chain stitch using a good filling cotton. D OMESTIC VACUUM C LEANER Dirt and Dust are a Constant Menace to Your Home A of large percent of our contagious dis- eases are carried into the home by reason germ laden dust. tedious and laborious manner of embroidering scallops new. H. The DOMESTIC Hand Cleaner is as powerful as the best portable electric. Upholstery.
bringthe ing the point just outside the outline stitch. Run a cotton thread around the outlines with very small running stitches to hold the form. which can be embroidered over without any of the preliminary work explained. procure the necessary length of Reis Foundation Gumbac Scallops. F. Then send the needle down in the first dot of the second row and bring it up in the second dot of the first row. Make stitches very even and rather tight and then shape perfectly with .— EYELETS EYELET EMBROIDERY. The blanket stitch is the same as the buttonhole stitch only each stitch is made instead of very close together as the buttonhole stitch is done. Lesson 25. REMODELING AND REPAIRING. press down with your hand and work over with the stitch taught you in Lesson 22. taking care to always have the stitches exactly the same distance apart and exactly the same height. oval.— Thread the long special and knot it at the eye. Lesson 23. All you need to do is to moisten the scallop.— BUTTONHOLE STITCH. Pass down needle dot of the dot of the second row. TRIMMING. oblong or pointed. Lesson 26. — Lesson 24. To save time and energy and to insure satisfactory results with your work. drawing needle through loop.AUTOMOBILE PAINTING. a small distance apart. 1911 Cars Remodeled with Fore Doors and Repainted to Resemble 1912 Models Telephone--East S40 1970 EAST 66TH STREET. This eliminates all the drudgery of stamping your design and all the filling-in work and gives a much more desirable effect than you can possibly obtain by the ordinary methods.— Begin by fastening thread by using running and back stitch.— BLANKET STITCH. send it down in the first up again in the first dot of the first row and draw the thread slightly to pull the goods together. except that in embroidery the point of the needle is toward the edge while in buttonholeing the point of the needle is toward the cloth. and repeat. Then fastening your thread on the under side of the material. Smith.— PUNCHED used for WORK. Either manner is correct. Hold thread under left thumb forming loop take stitch depth desired with needle pointing downward. By needle courtesy of Pictorial Review Co. then punch with a stiletto. See cut of Lesson 25. L.— Eyelets may be round. row. Bring up the the work. AND Set the needle for each stitch just outside the cotton outline stitch and draw the point through the stilettoed opening or set the needle through the opening. Proprietor THE NEW WAY TO EMBROIDER SCALLOPS.the stiletto. NEAR CORNER OF EUCLID AVENUE Smith Carriage $ Auto Co. begin work in the upper left-hand corner of the design.—The Buttonhole stitch and the Embroidery Scollop stitch are done exactly the same (see Lesson 22). bring in first the first it Page 16 . for exact position of needle.
pass down through the second dot of When the second row and bring up again in the third dot of the first row.— BRAIDING. most artistic and approved designs. chiffon braid or cord and a long stitch on the back. draw the thread a bit. Coats and Blouses the latest. bring up through the second dot of the first row. serge or linen a braid or cord the color of the material should be used. you have done all of the work in one direction. OHIO m^m j i ——— jj i . or marquisette a dull silver or fine gold or soft silk cord put on with button The stamping of hole couching makes a most beautiful border or trimming. turn the naterial and repeat the stitch at right angles to the first set of stitches. Joseph Korach 1258 ^—^— & Company II. CLEVELAND._l-Mi 1^- H I L^. On heavy goods such as velvet. Braiding Ladies'. so that the effect will be one of little squares.li l —^— Page 17 . i Lesson 27. To secure the most attractive effect the braid should be sewed on the edge so that it will stand up on the material. soutache. evening wraps or children's dresses and can be used on any material. FOURTH STREET. bias tubing or fine embroidery or the design can be followed with the outline or chain stitch. suits. There infinite variety of beautiful designs and patterns now in vogue for is an Those braiding. Misses' Braided in and Children's Dresses. cord. (Braiding and Embroidering) W. gowns. Suits. Braiding is most suitable and effective for a border or a trimming for waists. of your We also make buttons own call material in all styles.^ through the second dot of the second row. not having the time or the inclination to do this work for themselves can make up their garment and then have experienced braiders neatly and carefully carry out your ideas in any simple or elaborate design which you may select. so the plainest or the most fastidious tastes can be satisfied. these patterns for braiding must be most carefully done and the design followed exceedingly accurately in order to produce a satisfactory effect. Bring your work to us or phone and we will tell us up by either you what we can do for you. It can be developed with plain braid. The stitch used to sew on the braid is a short stitch on the right side of the For materials of net.
CHEVRONS AND EMBLEMS. chevrons and monogram foundations and selves work over them with the Lesson 21). table covers. while grown ups always appreciate their monogram neatly worked on their garments. rons and monograms on a separate piece See of broadcloth or linen. satin stitch (see you can stamp them on paper and baste them on the goods and embroider. Etc. and sew on. Sold at the needlework department of every department and dry goods store or send for our illustrated bcok on embroidering and samples in your initials. Page 18 . will supply you with Reis Foundation Letters for any desired purpose Ask Q t the needlework department Lesson 28. boys' suits. and a number of purposes which present them- and children always delight in an emblem or chevron on their arm. or crinoline or stiff lessons on embroidery for the monogram work. such as lingerie. household handkerchiefs. You can either get the Reis emblems. your monograms or We have plain and suitable for fancy letters every need of embroidery linen.— MONOGRAMS. work bags. Made in three styles-— Old English— Script— Block— sizes ^g inch to 10 inches.Use Reis Foundation Letters for initials. etc. cutting the paper or crinoline away as soon as finOr you may embroider the chevished. Chevrons and emblems are very appropriate for sailor suits. REIS 630 ASHABLE LETTERS •«amo r M«»OOIf)EBV BROADWAY NEW YORK The Morehouse Co.
Richardson's 1 Back for Pillow 1 Grand Prize Grecian Floss On sale at Diagram Lesson arrangement of stitches — showing and color scheme. This extraordinary offer is made to convince every woman of the superiority Richardson's Grand Prize Wash Embroidery Silk Why your home with attractive and not beautify effective pillows when the opportunity is offered? We will give you tire this en- Pillow Outfit including 1 Pillow Top — either oblong or square Every woman wants these attractive pillows and also knows the true value of —tinted on Aberdeen Crash.— This Beautiful Pillow FREE f All we ask is that you buy 6 skeins of Grand Prize Wash Embroidery Silk Richardson's or trated lesson for ZDC and a The fully illusPillow Top and Back are absolutely FREE. and Six Skeins of Richardson's Mercerized Cotton Floss for BERNER'S ART STORE Arcade Building oniy 25 cents Page Cleveland 19 :: Ohio TOUR CHOICE OF TWELVE DESIGNS .
otherwise you may ruin your garment. TERMS— $1. None of the tonic values are lost. the DIFFERENT. Springs situated in proximity to thickly populated districts are peculiarly liable to sudden contamination.00 I'M THE MAN That'll Always Give You Down. Pay as you can spare it. KATHAROS KATHAROS due to the liberation of gas during the electrolytic action. IS AS AS DISTILLED WATER. First mark the exact length of buttonhole you desire. over cast the edges then work with the button hole stitch (as per Lesson 24).— TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES. Cleveland. 2035 East 18th Street Cent. which is best described as being pure until it is declared impure. Distinction and Style.— Unless you have tested your skill in making buttonholes it will be wise for you to practice until you are in a fair way to feel confidence in your ability. PURE ALWAYS PURE— CONTAMINATED h°nes : N ^r t 34 6 The Electra Pure Water Co. Clothes of the BETTER SORT of Clothing. at prices absolutely as low as at any cash store. Quality. THE BOTTLES ARE STERILIZED and rinsed with Katharos before being filled. but is much more palatable and tonic in its qualities. The volume of sickness traceable to SPRINGS is of vast proportions. A SQUARE DEAL CWALLEY'S CREDIT STORE ^"^ 424 Euclid Ave. in the exact place you desire it. Ohio Page 20 . then run a thread around the space you intend to cut. Ohio Lesson 29. IS in which respect it is very unlike spring water. The Purest Water Sold in Cleveland ( Bacterial Tests Abundantly Prove the Truth of this Statement ) THE PROCESS OF PURIFICATION necessary for the production of Katharos is the most advanced known to science.Clothes of Quality for Men. then cut straight the slit to be worked. Women. NOTHING BENEFICIAL IS REMOVED by the process of purification. KATHAROS HAS LIFE AND SPARKLE. It contains enough of the minerals and salts to make it the most healthful of drinking waters. Boys and Children ON CREDIT HERE you'll find the NEW. 3241-W Cleveland.
Get acquainted with our stock and new things with which our store is Let us show you what beautiful pieces can be had for little money. HAVE YOU EVER INSPECTED OUR LARGE FURNITURE STORE? It Will Pay Come You in to Do So see the filled. Place button directly over mark or pin and bring up thread through holes of the buttons. continue till loop is covered. and run your thread exactly along the lengthwise thread of the garment. Fasten the thread well on the under side by several over and over stitches. and examine our Furniture and Floor Coverings. In mending stockings a darning ball may be used. Fasten your thread with the over and over stitch. allowing the eye of the needle to pass under first. repeat three or four times or until you have thickness consistent with the weight of goods you are working on.— Have button hole completed first. ON Lesson 31.— SEWING BUTTONS. then fasten well on under side. The darning thread to be used depends entirely — — — on the material to be darned. then measure exact place button is needed. W. they should be basted on a flat surface. and in many instances a thread or ravelling drawn from the goods itself is preferable. Then begin at the bottom of the threads and insert the needle under the loops and over the thread. leaving the thread moderately loose. Always begin a little beyond the worn places so your stitches will hold.. DARNING. Page 21 Co. cor. draw through cloth and bring thread loosely down to exact length desired. The Henke Furniture 3001-3021 Lorain Ave. and mark either with a pin or with tailor's chalk. as it should match in color and quality. LOOPS. but in mending most materials. then begin on the cross wise threads and run over and under the lengthwise threads altering the over and under stitch. Lesson 32. such as stiff paper or thin oil-cloth.— Lesson 30. 30th . When the button is securely sewed on wind the thread a few times around under the button and fasten well on the under side of the garment.
. or that can be mended much better with the Havanco Mending Tissue than with needle and thread. Baste patch on wrong side of goods. place piece of goods like garment under hole. druggists. Lesson 34. and useful for making many other kinds of repairs quickly and effectively. follow above for Garments repaired with Havanco may be washed and ironed but not Heat is the only thing that will affect it. and patches can be put on and repairs made on a moment's notice by adhering to the following directions: Brush leaving size it all dust from garments. Cut piece of the Havanco tissue the of the piece of lay a paper on cloth over for stockings. all and press with a warm flatiron. — There are many materials such as rain-proof clothing or kid gloves. Same directions goods or other goods where part is worn thin and a patch required. not have the iron HOT. PATCHING. silk garments. If possible have your patch of the same material. OHIO . send post paid upon the receipt 1382 West Ninth Street THE HALL-VAN GORDER COMPANY Page 22 CLEVELAND. Remember do patches. also mending all kinds of rents in clothing.— Lesson 33.. One For sale piece each of White. or will of the price in stamps. Black and Brown Ten Cents to the by package for . directions Re-seating or repairing knees of boys' pants. — Stoting. — Stoting be is used on »%&&% WTPrfiiTi?lIli-- heavy goods. a little larger than the hole. and cut it so the weave comes exact with the place to be mended. the stitch to mended without darning or is A is thread from the cloth used and begun back from the rent and the back and forth in running is stitch a slanting line taken until the tear has been closed. boiled. and on a rent or cut in a material which needs patching. On the right side cut out the worn or frayed part and make a small slit in each of the corners and turn down evenly the edges and sew down neatly on both sides of the garment. silk goods and place it between the garment and the patch. HAVANCO MENDING TISSUE The best thing for repairing bottoms of skirts and pants. dry goods and notion stores. etc.
It is entirely unlike the old style. Ackerman's Patent Ideal Faucet Syringe and Bath Spray The most wonderful improvement ever made j-i i !<v . the overhand patch put on the same as the is Lesson 34).— Where may be used.: Lesson 35. in washing off dirt from the porch. With this Ideal Faucet Syringe you can get the same results. perfect and effective syringe ever made. in a syringe. Ohio Page 23 . y\ '. economical.— OVERHAND ordinary patch right side (see PATCH.. and the force of the stream can be regulated to suit the purpose for which it is used from a drop of water at a time to a pressure of 50 pounds. except that the patch to a overhanded on the and the underside neatly cut down good seam and pressed. will use the lawn hose with such force as to drive everything before it.. so long found inefficient and unsatisfactory. A lady.•> . will last a life time. as there is no limit as to the supply of water. screw on cap and attach to end of rubber tube before putting on the spray and then screw on the vaginal pipe and the whole stream of water is medicated with the medicine. clumsy fountain syringe. It is the most simple. IDEAL FAUCET SYRINGE COMPANY 9601 Cedar Avenue. Cleveland. The operator can use a pint or a gallon without stopping and at any force desired. all that is required is to it is drop your medicine onto this Sponge in the cup. no cumbersome water bags to get out of order. whereas with the Ideal Faucet Syringe you can obtain any desired force. which is controlled by a valve. the goods are heavy and not It is often washed. while the ordinary fountain syringe has not enough force to it to dislodge germs.-. sanitary. always ready. Can be used for everything a fountain syringe is used for. convenient. if necessary. — The Ideal Patent Cup Attachment.. You can get any desired pressure or flow of water. desired to use an antiseptic or sanative treatment in connection with a douche.. a which has and when sponge in it.
B. ends. but the stitching must be very straight and very even. Take your bias band twice the desired width and fold so the edges come exactly together. Lesson — — stitch. Hold the cord so cannot become twisted and place the exact center of the fold. allowing only the edge of The piping may be lined or unlined. the bias strip to emerge. With a narrow turning fold the broad edge over the narrow edge of the seam and hem either by hand or on machine. — Piping is made of bias strips folded in the center. Fold over the top edge. piping. and silk thread should always be used to join the seams of a garment made of wool goods. Good Try Our Home-like Baking QUALITY HAS BEEN OUR SUCCESS COFFEE Page 24 . 41. FELLED SEAM. and then turn under the edges of the fold and stitch with one or two rows of stitching. such as binding or overhanding the raw edges. make a narrow turn up of the bottom edge and bring it up to cover the edge turned down. or by making the felled or French seams. — — Cent. obtained by folding on the selvedge or straight Folds and bands are used very neat trimming. SEAMS. — CORDING. and are width and join the diagonal bias is Lesson 37. as they make a Cut your bias strips the desired easily made. Ask your dealer for the W. and stitch on either side gives a very good finish. the canvas is basted in and the edges of the fold fastened down with the catch stitch. — — Lesson 38. Sew up the seam in any of the ordinary ways described in the preceding lesson. —PIPING. Lesson 42.— Cut Lesson and basted N. — an exactly even depth under the fold.— Cut it the bias strips twice in as wide as desired. turn down the fold and sew neatly just below the cord. Great care must be taken that the stitches are not too fine on tailored seams. or they may be protected in various manners. your bias bands two and one-half times the width desired. 39.— MILLINER'S FOLD. On heavy goods that do not ravel or fray out to press back the edge of the seam. 4679 K Tables fnr Ladies DRINK Griffiths Restaurant 1022-1028 Prospect Avenue SENORA Always the Same CLEVELAND. and is an easy manner of disposing of the tailored seams. considerably on tailored suits.Lesson 36. or back stitch or the edge when of material that does not fray can be left raw or pinked. DOUBLE FOLD. 0. and cutting diagonally. Lesson 40. Seams can be joined by machine stitching. When the fold is lined. chain running stitch. & N. Baste and sew on either by machine or by hand. which is beautifully made at and ready for use.—A true the material with the straight edge of the top lengthwise fold exactly. Trim the under edge narrower than the outer.— BANDS AND FOLDS.
Hold goods toward you and turn neatly and begin at the right and sew insertion and material together with the slant stitch. Catch the overlap of the corners of the hem to the underlap. (See Lesson 5. when hemming can be done on the machine as it saves the measuring and basting. Then cut a strip of heavy paper or notch a piece of card board the exact depth you desire your hem and use this paper or card board for a marker. binding turns itself so all you need to do is to fasten the binding on by hand or sew it down with machine. A lap seam is as its name implies one seam lapping over another. overcast using the damask hem. & N. Lesson 48. Lesson —DAMASK at HEM. HEMMING.—THE FRENCH SEAM. This is one of the simplest manners in which to dispose — — — — — — of a tailored seam. Lesson 46. Stitch near the edge of the upper lap and again one-half inch back.— The proper material for binding the edges of seams is bias bands of silk. For the ordinary hem begin by making a narrow turning. Baste down then hem with slant stitch (see Lesson S). of Turn fold as of for an ordinary Fold back the linen the crease the first the hem and with very fine stitches. WELT SEAM. HEM. leaving just room enough to catch the stitches nicely. Lesson 49. turn under exactly as for an ordinary hem. and overhand the end.— To hem square corners. — Table It is linen can be very neatly hemmed by hem. -Make a plain seam leaving one edge wide and one edge narrow.— TO CORNERS. very simple. & N. When finished take a moderately hot iron and press down wrong the hem on 51. linen or cotton. being careful the stitches do not show through on the right side. or W. Cut either bias or crosswise strips and turn under both edges and stitch over a plain seam. for your hem must be turned exactly even. Lesson 47. and cut the material in the fold and hem — — HEM the bias edges. The edges of the goods to be bound should be evenly trimmed and the binding basted on the edges. STRAP SEAM. Trim evenly and narrowly. while in others a hem is joined to a lace or embroidery insertion by what is called a roll hem.) side of Page 25 . LAPPED SEAM. Hems are made by turning the edge of the material twice in any suitable depth and the fold fastened down with the slant stitch or by hemstitching or in some instances the plain running stitch. — Is used for setting in insertion. 50. Lesson 44.— Sew the seam by machine. The W.BELLE VERNON MILK the Best Milk Lesson 43. or hemstitch (see Lesson 17). Lesson — ROLLED the right side. Much time is saved however. yet deep enough so the turning includes all the edges. Lesson 45.— THE BOUND SEAM. or after turning the edges for the hem fold toward the center. turn garment and sew on wrong side taking seam of depth to entirely inclose the first seam. binding. Turn back the wide fold and baste down the narrow edge and stitch with one or two rows of stitching. or running stitch on the right side of the garment. and cut out the underlying corners.
52. And many styles of Pleat ings for Trimmings of Dresses. embroidery. Turn and sew down either with machine or with slant stitch. then heavy draw goods on gathering string into exact position desired. only you must always baste down your pleats. tape. Always draw the ends of the threads through to the underside of the garment and tie carefully. or the work will not look neat. In underwear the W. Use a bias band. Lesson — — straight — Lesson 54. Lesson 56. Lesson — GATHERING. House Gowns. at Lesson 55. chiffon or any of If the ruffle is to be sheer materials. Facing of lace or embroidery around the neck or arm hole of sleeves is sometimes put on the right side making a trimming or finish. lay a damp cloth over them and press so they will keep their fold nicely. Maternity Dresses. B. or on a seam. In this instance the edge of the embroidery or lace must be heavy enough to entirely cover the edge of the material of the garment. side pleating and sunburst pleating must be done but all a pleating establishment. & N. embroidery. Place the right side of the facing against the right side of the goods and sew firmly with machine or by running stitch. Dancing Frocks. your goods into two or four even knot and use the simple running stitch. Children's Dresses. Embroidery or lace may be used for facing on some articles by following the suggestion of cut which is done in the same way as the ordinary facing. Fancy Waists. Muffs. can be done as successfully on the sewing machine as by hand and very much quicker. a piece of goods cut either across or down the weave of the goods will do. Pleats are made the same as tucks. Dressing Sacques.spaces.— SHIRRING. Hats. either N. Neckwear. bias tape is most useful in innumerable instances. unless you have a pleating machine of your own. Etc. Etc. TUCKS. Where lace or embroidery must be joined in tucks sew the cloth so the seam will come in the fold of and under the tuck.— RUFFLES. — Ruffles may be made of straight or bias goods. made of goods without a finished edge edge must be neatly hemmed the Art Pleating Shop 438 Old Arcade Cleveland Page 26 .— Is simply from two to as many rows of gatherOn most materials it ing as desired. A first class sewing machine is provided with a tucker that can be gauged for any size tuck you desire. The White Sewing Machine is provided with a tucker with which you can easily both regulate your tucks and the space between the tucks. tucks by hand you must make a marker and fold exactly on the line and — — sew down carefully by machine or with running stitch. lace. PL E ATI N G Accordeon Pleating and Side Pleating made in the newest effects for Party Costumes.— Divide rather make a 53. FACINGS. accordion pleating. Street Dresses. so it is not necessary But to make to baste in your tucks after a little practice on your machine. Waists.
ZOA-FHORA KALAMAZOO. work a ruffle of lace or embroidery may be put on with the whip stitch (see Lesson 6). which is done exactly as overcasting.— SEWING ON HOOKS AND EYES. waists. of insertion.Moth 71. N. belts. Props. Liver Pills CO. The White Sewing Machine has an attachment wherewith the hemming is done and the lace or embroidery sewed on with one operation. 25 CENTS. On page 32. B. For sale at all first-class druggists. Lesson 58. Liver Pills Stomach have been used for over half a century with most For habitual Constipation and Bowel Trouble use the ZOA-PHORA Anti-Constipation Pills. ZOA-PHORA STOMACH The Scientific AND LIVER PILLS and Effectual Remedy for Biliousness. undergarments. and all Disorders Arising from a Sluggish Liver and Imperfect Digestion. Lesson 59. Or the lace or embroidery may be set in by using the roll hem.— SEWING ON LACE OR EMBROIDERY. taking pains to catch through the narrow hem on the underside. sew hook so often happens with the ordinary hook and eye. (See Lesson 48). & N. children's garments or any purpose. and if desired an edging may be sewed on either by machine The ruffle is attached to the garment or neatly overhanded (see Lesson 6). which we recommend for skirts. or the ruffle may be sewed on the right side and covered with a bias band. The Wilson Dress Hook and Eye is easy to hook and unhook. Lesson 57. Cut out goods Carefully baste down hem over edge leaving enough only for a narrow hem. They are flat and invisible and never slip open as To sew on. and stitch on right side. quick. to the necessary fullness and by placing the right side of the material and ruffle together and sewing firmly. or with a piece of the W.. Headache. See page 96 for partial list. PRICE. you will find a cut of the Wilson Dress Hook and Eye.— Baste the lace or embroidery on the right side in the exact position desired. bias tape. of the wrong side of the lace or embroidery to the edge of the right side of the hem and stitch. Lesson 48). When the food is not being properly digested and the Liver refuses to work and the whole system becomes clogged with poison and you need a good. where an ordinary hook or buttonhole would be placed. turn hollow side (see — Page 27 . snap fasteners or buttons can be used. dresses.. put the right side of the lace to the right If the machine is to be used put the edge side of the material and overhand.— SETTING IN LACE OR EMBROIDERY. MICH.— If the lace or embroidery is to be put on by hand. either by gathering (see Lesson 52). and cannot rust. where hooks and eyes. gentle cathartic fL-J^y^-* & - RememberZOA-PHORA Stomach and gratifying results. make a second turning and hem. Or again the ruffle may be inserted in the hem by placing the right side of the garment and the ruffle together and turn hem back to In very fine the wrong side of the garment.
is This or the Reis fully embroidered articles. woven initials made on woven tape which can be neatly overcasted on the inside of the garment.— MARKING OF LINEN UNDERWEAR. which gives the inside of the boned' article a very pretty finish.sewn to an i Sm Phora won't do for garment.. but a more attractive way is to use the catch stitch (see Lesson 11). uji 100 200 Names for $1. You can get these letters or monograms in nearly any shade or style and all you need to do is to baste them on your fabrics and work over them with your embroidery cotton or silk. and sew the eye where an ordinary eye or button would have been placed. Every garment and piece of linen in your home should be marked. aprons and children's clothes. fleeze lined and woolen underwear. ami will identify you in case of REIS' NAMES come in si jj. The gauze. as are the ordinary hook and fastener. for they are perfect and durable and will stand the boiling and ironing of the laundry without being damaged in the least.00 for 144 $1. It saves annoyance. Men's shirts should be marked with an embroidered initial just above Linen. lingerie and handkerchiefs beautifully monogrammed or with carecuff.i different style letters. They never wear out.toward the cloth and the straight edge toward edge of cloth. very quickly and easily done.- Printed from Engraved Black on fine Tape: WOMANKIND no medicine will. in a REIS' ENGRAVED NAMES t'anilin. Broadway and Bleecker ®*s NEW VCKK o^v/rv.. besides being a substantial stitch to hold the boning secure. The stitch used is simply sewing over and over through the small round holes of the hook and eye. REIS' WOVEN NAMES are machine woven <>n good quality white "a m hi ic tape in either red.25 IV arr-. s accident. Lesson 61.— PUTTING IN STAYS AND COLLAR SUPPORTS. ami are easily cut apart anil . as well as in the simplest. by procuring the Reis woven names. However. initials plainest form the distinctive mark which The Reis foundation washable letters lends dignity to the or the Reis initial medallions should always be used. the hosiery. in fact all laundered garments should be marked with the name or at least the initial of the member of the family to whom the article belongs. $2. prevents loss by laundries and hotels. REIS & BRO. What MARK YOUR GARMENTS WITH REIS' WOVEN NAMES Vonr garments should hear your name. navy.25 for 72 Names Names Plate-. light hlue Mark and can he had in several . many prefer to use the feather stitch (see Lesson 18). G.es for $1. Lesson 60. in the most elaborate gowns. St. The Warren Feather Bone for stays or collar supports can be stitched by machine into the lining of the article to be boned.75 If your dry p><<ds store cannot take youi orders send youi order with remittance direct to us. JL22Z Pa ere 28 .
beautiful and elaborate creations. There is no trimming or ornamentation for waists. (CLEVELAND Sixth City initial sleeve or pocket of shirts. On nearly all smart garments from the marquisettes and sheer chiffon and silks and dainty lawns to the heavier materials and all wash goods you will find at least a suggestion ranging from the pretty French knots and the simple outline and chain stitch following the simplest of patterns to the most intricate. but pretty AVERYon the fad to have the Hand Regular Dinner. lavender and black. (Braiding and Embroidering) Cleveland. ii red. Lesson 62.The Hawley Cor. Ohio . navy..— EMBROIDERY DESIGNS. The designs and stitches used will depend entirely upon the taste of the individual and the style and texture of the garment. Served from 11 25 Cents to 2 p. St. embroidered initials are very beautiful. pajamas. We also make buttons of your own material. work a. m. 630 Broadway. Clair Ave. Embroidery Send or bring us that piece of Embroidery that you do not know how or have not the time to trouble to do. 4th St. CJA11 you have to do is stick them on and work over with silk or cotton. green. requires artistic ability and much to make an attractive design. and ^-* R "IS • it 9 EMBROIDERED SHIRT INITIALS is West Third St. but all of the stitches ordinarily used will be found in this series stamping and making the garment. G ReiS & BrOS. etc. 10c. Our experienced embroiderers can work out in perfect effects any design you may choose for any purpose Either machine cr hand work. in all styles. dresses or wash suits which meets the refined feminine approval more than embroidery designs. Y. m. Reis' Initials elimate all this work. each or 3 for 25c. white. However should you prefer to have the embroidery done by more experienced fingers than your own or have not the time to devote on that part of the decoration of waist or gown you will do well to take it to your local embroiderer where the work will be done by trained hands who make a specialty of lessons together with full directions for of embroidering. Joseph Korach Both Phones 1258 Page 29 & Company W. Price. N.
The articles usually required are: 1 2 —Cutting Scissors — Button Hole Scissors Stick 3— Yard 4 — — — 8— 9— Pins 10 — Tailor's —Tracing 5 —Tape 6 7 Line Needles Thread. but and a large spool of white basting thread and a spool of colored basting thread to use where it is not expedient to mark with a pencil or tailor's chalk. (See page 20— Boning. (See page 16— Stiffenings 17 — Tape. (See page 21 — Dress Forms. and ? learn how much easier. Botti WHITE SEWINGNo.Buy a Sewing Machine before you see the WHITE. MACHINE Avenue Phones CHAPTER XI. (Basting) Thread. Rotary Shuttle IX! We and "Sit-Strate" Machines. (See pages 12 13 14 34. NECESSARY SEWING ACCESSORIES. A modern machine is supplied with attachments that will hem. It is always a bad investment to buy an inferior. with ordinary care will last a lifetime so the greatest of caution should be used in selecting one. quilt. provide yourself with a variety of sizes of cotton spool thread Be sure and Page 30 . 11 Wheel (A) 40 and 41. reliable and reputable make can be purchased.) 38. see that you have the necessary accessories at hand with which to do your work. A good sewing machine (B) THREADS. hemstitch and in fact do nearly everything that the human fingers can do in this line and a wise woman will keep her attachments always on hand and use them whenever possible for they will save her hours of useless labor.) 41.) 37. Before beginning the making of a garment. Your machine must be kept perfectly clean and well oiled and by keeping the tension adjusted just right you will not need to give it much further attention. (See page 18— Trimmings. made in One is of the greatest mistakes is sewing is the use of a needle that too large and thread that too coarse. 426 ProspectCO. shall be glad to show it up and let it speak for itself. — Hooks and Eyes — Patterns 15 — Linings. (Cotton) Thread. the thread should just pass easily through the eye of the needle.) SEIWNG MACHINE. (Silk.) 36. On the other hand do not attempt to use a coarse thread in a fine needle or a fine thread in a large needle. better and quicker it will do your sewing. or where a line of tucks or trimming is desired. gather. cheaply made machine when for the same money or a few dollars more a first class. DO DON'T DO WHAT Vibrator. see page 31D). (See page 19— Dress Shields. Chalk — Skirt Marker.) 39.
If us. cloth. is The kind of embroidery material all important. BELDING'S SEWING SILK the finest quality of raw silk. Be sure to drop in and see it at first opportunity. count of its great strength. and made in every conceivable color and shade. a seam sewed with silk is infinitely stronger. elasticity and fast color.DON'T GUESS you as a Sewing Machine user of the White Tension Indicator but see it for yourself. and yet the results will be disappointing. Pure costs One of the (D) most important SEWING THREAD. if the thread is not of the Silk thread is particularly adapted for seam making. then you'll need the WHITE. and that a yard of pure silk thread will stretch from two to three inches. smooth and elastic. trimmings. is strong." write tell you where you can get it. consequently. and we will BELDING BROS. lustrous and beautiful effect that cannot be obtained with any of the imitations or substitutes. 528 Broadway NEW YORK There hook and (E) HOOKS AND EYES.. requisites in dressmaking is the thread used in sewing the seams. and while embroidery silk more than cotton or any of the other substitutes. no greater extravagence than to invest in a cheap worthless eye. and so if you are progressive and desire to do your sewing under the most advantageous conditions. the results to be obained will more than justify the difference in expense. whereas a cotton or linen thread has no "give" or "stretch". It's exclusively White. they are always unsatisfactory and a garment not properly is — Page 31 . WHITE SEWING MACHINE BOTH PHONES (C) 426 CO. Great care may be used in selecting styles. silk will wash and wear without fading. is made from your dealer does not carry "Belding's. not be generally known that silk is the strongest fiber known to mankind. will give to a stress. Embroidery silk will give that rich. & CO. etc. on acproper texture. and so available only for White at the value to buyers. PROSPECT AVENUE EMBROIDERY THREAD. With it you can do work that can't possibly be done on any other machine. and It may will always retain its original shape.
1 My er's Deal- Ave. card Wilson Dress-hooks. fect ease. Name J.omng. "Thank you.ClairAve. E.. . its Many to of the common The brands of hooks and eyes will rust and leave marks on your garment. the back is always smooth. Can not catch on trimmings. Black and White colors. Cleveland.N. and eyes..* invisible they never pull they do not leave the usual "bunch" which tells where other yf' Cleveland. making them invaluable on wash garments.ig not go through the is laundry without pieces.kooks FuBI-Size Card Sent V. 10c a My Name Street Ask for Wilson Dress-hooks on all ready-to-wear . They are Wilson Dress-hooks. So flat . oard of one dozen.State.** 198 St. upstairs and I'll run fix it. snap fasteners or buttons. No matter how loose or tight your garment. O. N.. provided you have not previously had a free card Dress-hooks are guaranteed not to rust or crush in washing The Wilson and .E. Ohio hooks are sewn.. out beyond the edse and show. Page 32 . J His Address. free. lation to They are truly a reve- on Dress. Always Dress-hook Co. Outwear Tlense send. neatly closed and perfectly flat if you use these un ique hooks Though you can unhook them with per. Gray. — will fastened is ruined.'ilson i pppp H E» d Fill Out This Coupon . garments Address J The Wilson Dress-hook Company 198 St." women accustomed to troublesome hook-. — Black. 10c several garments.. while others L-oi. Clair * y* ^* Town . best thing to do to make sure that This Embarrassment Can Never Come to You if You Use the hooks that can't "pop" open accidentally or allow the dress to gape and spread. White) previous sample Sold at notion counters everywhere (remember the orange and black card) Large and Small sizes.
but the finish of lining. and always and pleasing assortments. And.. which we find is always reliable and satisfactory and costs no more than any other good fastener. place. is at hand. to the style book and pat- We mention: Conovers' Naiad Dress Shields Warren 's Featherbone Wilson's Hooks and Eyes £5? Embroidery Foundations Coat Fronts. Shoulder Forms and Bust Forms The Ladies' Home Journal Patterns Reis Bros. the kind of hook and eyes. all the best of such are here.— you have a brand that in will not rust and that will positively hold your garment recommend and use in our demonstrations the Wilson Dress Hook and Eye. because we make a specialty of all the little the linings and findings. realize the These women Each season fabrics finds here the newest of cloths. the quality of thread. Every convenience tern. silks in large and dress things. Coat Pads. We Specialists in Dressmakers'' Supplies '"THE BEST DRESSED and making of their WOMEN are most often those who take the keenest interest and pleasure in the small details clothes. shields and dozen other seemingly trifling details. Co. importance of the little things not only the quality and style of fabrics. Page 33 .
Look for and accept no substitute. & CO. effect in the lining of a coat (F) It is just as essential to it have a satisfying Silk is or jacket. It is naturally the most beautiful of all fabrics for lining purposes. Belding's Pure silk Dye Guaranteed Satin. BELDING BROS. you should take into consideration the HEXTER'S LINING STORE Dress Makers' Supplies and 1 Tailors' Trimmings " "Everything for your Dress but the Goods 153-155 Arcade : : Euclid Avenue Entrance Page 34 . select silk linings that will By procuring reliable. cloak or garment. 528 Broadway NEW YORK CITY LININGS. very difficult. some of the most reliable silk manufacturers are weaving their names in the selvage of the lining as a guarantee of wear.Belding's Pure name on the selvage. No fabric will wear as well as a pure dye silk fabric. Dye Guaranteed Satin the every yard guaranteed to give satisfactory wear. you are assured of a If your garment does not require a or satin lining. on account of the practice of adulteration or weighting. satisfactory lining for your suit. In order to overcome this difficulty. as is in the exterior. for the average person to wear well. however.
where a fitted lining is not desired the Grean Invisible Net Foundations will be most valuable to you. overcomes all obstacles. the If your dealer cannot supply you. finish it. Heartburn. as it eliminates the endless preliminary fittings. according to sty!e. To all those who have not tried them it seems impossible. or if it is a light weight waist. The cost of a pattern is so small and the help they give so great that you cannot afford to take chances of wasting your goods without a pattern to guide you. Sour Risings. quality and texture of your material and go to a reliable lining store. Pain or Distressed Feeling in the Stomach. putting on hooks and eyes and finishing. fitting. 25 cents per box y (^ jTV " pTTfvn l\. much time can be saved by using the Grean Fitted Lining. New York weight. Nausea. Bloating. Belching of Gas. or professional have to suffer before they attain the result which you obtain in a ready made Grean Fitted Waist Lining.FITTED WAIST LININGS is considered one of the most important inventions of the present time. but you may rest assured that the new. but simple principle which is embodied in the Grean Waist Linings.. They are all finished. which is ready for use without having the trouble of cutting. Page 35 . Always select a pattern exactly your own size don't get one a size too large or a size too small. for if you do so you will take every chance of making a complete misfit of your garment. (G) PATTERNS. boned. as new linings are constantly coming into fashion. this affords easy ripping if a fitting is necessary and all the fitting is done at the upper part of the waist in all instances. write us today ana we will supply you direct or give you of a reliable dealer who handles our line. With every Pictorial Review Pattern you will find a Cutting Guide show- ing exactly how to lay on your goods to the best advantage and how to guard against making any mistakes in cutting. white and grey percaline. asking them to show you their newest and most appropriate linings for the purpose which you desire. for often you can save a yard or so of goods or save yourself from running short of material. you will find it easy to cut and fit and make any garment you may desire. Dyspepsia. and you will need to be informed as to the best. Unless you are an experienced designer. Be careful and purchase the exact size or exactly what your measure is around the waist and you will have a good fitting lining. and have it stuffed up for the purposes of having her own figure for fitting 75c and draping in the workroom. Always get your pattern before buying your goods if possible. Every person should buy one of grey percaline fitted to herself. which dressmakers at home. have hooks and eyes in the back or front. but above the boned portions and on the shoulders. cutter and fitter never attempt to make even the plainest garment without a pattern. the seams are very loosely stitched. illustrating precisely how to put the garment together. and in white and black Corsica silk. There is also a Construction Guide. by knowing exactly the — required amount to make the article in question. \J XV A Digestive Tablets See ?oT 96 special offer For Indigestion. so with this Manual of Sewing and Dress Making and a Pictorial Review Pattern. This & 51 - 00 name Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Company. If you are lining a waist that needs a fitted lining. and all Disagreeable Symptoms arising from a Disordered Stomach. They are made in linolawnblack. 327-329 East 34th St. /A / \ ± ±J. boning.
a necessity in the home sewing room. and for this BIASSEAHTAPt It turns itself "W." Bias Seam Tape Are you taking advantage of its Cambric and Lawn. 4 widths (5-16 in. finishing or It will binding seams on all materials and for fagotting. TRADE MARK REGISTERED Once used Always used Beware of Imitations AT ALL DEALERS A is very useful article for piping.. showing colors. 13 widths Pure Linen and wide) usefulness. For the waist you will need it in many instances. while on your skirts your seam must be bound.. not shrink. almost impossible to make any article of wearing apparel without tape. Wright 40 Lispenard St. & N. to }A in. F. &N. E." Bias Seam Tape INDISPENSABLE IN THE SEWING ROOM Saves half the work making a garment. wide). Sample reference book free. for the support for the hooks and eyes. Wm.? White and (*4 colors. i in highest grade n - to 1 in.— (H) It is TAPE. Mf rs . & Sons Co. Made "W. NEW YORK. Silk. Page 36 . for the binding around the neck and armholes and many other purposes. also in India Linon. widths and quality of materials. Dept.
you will find that a support of the W. f* Manufacturers. there is an odor from the rubber of the cheaper shields that is very offensive to a refined woman.N. On your underwear you will need it to bind over your embroidery ruffles. and when you have an embroidered edge to your garment as seen in Lesson 79.— purpose no tape answers so well as the W. Bias Seam Tape. protecting your garments shield reliable When dress — so many the The Crowning Attribute of Lovely Woman is Cleanliness NAIAD DRESS SHIELD SUPREME Beauty ! IN Quality ! Cleanliness ! POSSESSES two important and exclusive features. which is ready for use and turns itself so the edge is always neat and even.. Page 37 . (I) DRESS SHIELDS. And then too. you will see this tape neatly put on with the tiniest of slant stitch making a support just below the scallop of the embroidered edge and you will find it most satisfactory to follow their example. Narrow Bias Seam Tape means an additional wear of many months. & N. of from perspiration be sure and select a cheaper shields on the market today are anything but satisfactory and the ruined waists showing the stains just below the shields are a result of their use.. It does not deteriorate with age and fall to powder in the dress can be easily and quickly sterilized by immersing Guarantee with Every Pair in boiling water for a few seconds only.I!. & N.Y. At the cents. instead of facing. 101 Franklin St. We use in our demonstrations and always recommend the Naiad Dress Shield. On the Parisian lingerie. tOnOVer LO. stores or sample pair on receipt of 25 Tl 1 he f* T* /"* t. Added to these the fact that an unreliable shield will not wash and cannot be kept sanitary makes it imperative to procure a good reputable shield that can be relied upon to protect your gown or jacket. which nothing in the world of the kind can rival in daintiness and beauty.
as best known and most reputable boning on the market. collar-bones.(J) BONING. for all tailors use only the Warren Feather Boning. Girdles and Collars because Stitching bone in on by machine holds the place. Michigan Page 38 . first it makers and subject of boning can be quickly disposed of. insist and leaded dress weights that they are u -ip^M&tt" YtMendif£u Three Oaks. giving permanent shape To bone a waist Send for requires less than 10 minutes our Instruction Booklet with attachment for machine FREE When buying waist-bones. The class dress- is by far the (The Perfect Boning) for Waists. Linings. girdles collar-sets. collar-foundations.
For waist. To make Pneu Form perfectly. Pneumatic Form Company J.. not only as a means to secure correct and perfect lines and insure a well fitting garment. If you are ^eiiftxriii It's You The Wonderful Pneumatic Dress Form Sold In Many First Class Stores Pneu Form is the easiest and handiest dress form the world to manipulate. skirt and dress making and fitting or for dress repairing at home. containing full description and prices. It relieves you of tiresome standing hour after hour for fittings. It is the practical invention of a woman and consists of a nonleakable air chamber made of specially prepared m and well covered rubber cloth. you do your own dressmaking or have it done at your home you should by all means provide yourself with a Dress Form. One Pneu Form. you simply inflate it inside your fitted waist lining and before you stands YOU shoulders.(K) If DRESS FORMS. near NEW YORK Nothing so good for skirt And base this little box tlwi S». reproduce your form. bust and hips with looking glass — — fidelity. Pneu Form is mounted on an adjustable standard rod which may be raised or lowered to the exact height desired. nothing can possibly take the place of Pneu Form. and enables you to study your own form while you work upon your own garments. Write today for new illustrated booklet' "It's You. but to save yourself the time and the tediousness of trying on your gowns." Edition H-I. serves for any number of persons by simply changing the waist lining. jjBK fitting and holds draping it all Page 39 . 557 Fifth Ave.6th St.
00. — — t^ —of trying to see dress fits in the how your back or how —effectively by the use of the skirt hangs with the aid of a looking glass need no longer trouble you if you have a Dress Form of your exact figure. etc. can be adjusted at neck. $8. Hall-Borchert's complete correct Model Adjustable Form is in every way up to date.making your own gowns there is no way without assistance that you can fit yourself without a Dress Form. If you sew. $5. and will last a lifetime. Dress forms are now considered just as necessary just as indispensable to equipment of t . simply and durably made.00 and $15. $2. and YOUR VERY IMAGE in lines and proportions can be reproduced with a Hall-Borchert and Majestic GUARANTEED Perfect Fitting Dress — Form — Every style included Adjustable and Non-Adjustable— of which we show a large variety for every purpose and figure.50. and the fit of your garment is of far more importance than the quality of the material.. $3.00. stands without tiring. a Dress Form of proper size and shape to aid you the form is always ready.e sewing room as the Sewing Machine. $10. $1.50. conforming to any size or shape desired.50. Skirt can be adjusted to any style and can be raised or lowered to any desired skirt length. main floor. have a dress form by all means buy it at The May Co. Euclid. waist. With a dress form which reproduces your own lines perfectly you will be able to get a better fitting garment than if it was tried on yourself.00. Shears and Tape Measure. for during the tedious. and get the benefit of Notion Dept. Correct model bust and dress forms at $1.. these economical prices. $12.00. tiresome fittings you change position so often that you are liable to change your lines.00. saves time and annoyance and its cost — many times over. hips. Pictorial Review Pattcis 10c & 15c Main EAGLE STAMPS FREE with Every Purchase Floor Euclid Page 40 .
do not go to the first store you happen to pass and take anything that may be presented to you. whose beauty depend so much upon the graceful lines. most inexpensive gown can be made attractive with well selected trimming. but take a sample of your goods and go to a first-class dress trimming establishment and ask to be shown suitable trimmings for your goods and often you will find something new and attractive that in the ordinary way would have escaped your atten- The plainest. their All first-class dressmakers desirous of saving their customers' time. should usually be chosen. colorless complexion must always study the trimmings and adornment of their costume and some bright color. that a harmonious. When you have a gown or suit that needs trimming. tedious woman (L) DRESS TRIMMINGS. Cleveland Dress Trimming Company ^ V^ 4 6 Euclid Ave. for and own as well. form. 1 COVERED tooR DE R ^ ^ of Second Door East Opera House Page 41 . suitable and desirable effect can be obtained. and which is impossible to get when you fit yourself We show two of the most reliable reputable without one of these forms. bands and special trimmings. tion entirely. laces. A person with a dull. Dress Forms made and your dealer will gladly demonstrate them to you. if only a dash of it. are supplied with a dress today has neither the time or the patience to be manner. braids. One can always procure such a variety of silks. You should secure a Dress Form before attempting to make any of the up-to-date gowns.the entire fit of your gown be of ruined. the fitted in the old.
C. The bottom of the placket must be made secure on the under side. 6 We most highly recommend the notch at the right place on — See that the placket comes to the exact your making a placket. your placket binding exactly after your pattern. The mark which reveals the inexperienced or careless sewer is more quickly and more likely to be seen in the finish of the placket than in any other part of your garment. P.CHAPTER VII. Don't have it too long nor yet so short an opening that you immediately tear open the placket. Luncheon 11 to 2 NEW CENTER LUNCH CLUB 813 Prospect Ave. that you do not opening of the plackets. same general instructions over seeking information and also taking SENSIBLE PLACES TO LUNCH EUCLID CAFETIERE 328 Euclid Ave. or in trying of the stretch the edges 4 — Be —Use belt. your placket opening down exactly the right length. Do not do it carebut see that your pattern is laid on correctly and pinned securely and that you cut accordingly. SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS In the following lessons we teach you the right way of making each part of a garment and in the succeeding lessons whenever that portion of the article is to be made. F. Home Cooking No Waiting Prices Reasonable M. Page 42 7— In . 3 — Be careful in picking up your skirt. Stretching these edges means always a full baggy look. The following rules must be observed.— PLACKETS. both edges of the opening must be faced. Wilson Hook and Eye. 1 — Cut lessly. unless perhaps. only the best of hooks and eyes. careful that every stitch that shows through on the right side be positive 5 and even. it be in the making of the buttonholes. reference will be made to the specific lesson treating of that particular subject instead of repeating the and over again. Your skirt will never fit smoothly across the back of the hips if you do. Kirby Building MAIN 1565 No Waiters O'Brien Building MAIN 3914 Lesson 63. confusing the one who is up valuable space with unnecessary repetitions. to get 2 — Cut easily into it on. upper fold. (Lesson the eyes sewed on the under facing and the hooks on the facing of the 53). just far enough the garment.
but a peplum is much easier especially to fit. especially as wide belting shrinks from one to three inches to the ward. Skirts and dresses at present are made with high belt. Healing and Soothing Antiseptic Ever Used for a Douche for Practically All Female Weakness Sanar can be used without fear of injuring the* most delicate or affected tissues as it does not smart or burn and is highly recommended by many of the most eminent physicians in this country.— BELTS AND BANDS. cut a straight piece double the width desired. If double. For this purpose wide belting is used. — — — effect. No Married Lady Should Be Without This Wonderful Antiseptic SANAR REMEDY 746 Euclid Avenue CO. 64. Cleveland. 2j^ inches wide and fitted by gusset seams and boned Lesson BELTS AND BANDS. A peplum is used instead of a belt or band or draw string to hold down at the waist and Page 43 . 2 With bones ejecting above the belting.^. which is a feature not to be overlooked in wash dresses. Turn the top of the folded edge toward the garment and stitch.— The belt or doubled or may However. 3 With boning above and below the belting to form a pointed bodice into shape.'V K I XI -r Safe Reliable Effective The Wonderful Cleansing. For the Use of Careful Refined Women A A K^ C* A\ T\T l\ T"} ^ AA. A trial will convince you of its merits. for the draping of waists. If desired the belt or band can then be entirely stitched around. for ordinary belting.— YOKE AND PEPLUMS— A yoke is a very particular part of a garment to make. If the belt or band is faced sew the straight strip and the facing together and proceed the same as directed above. Turn over the under edge and hem down to cover the seam on the inside of the garment. have improved this method by offering a seamless shaped belt thoroughly shrunk.A. You can get the Grean Belt in three distinct styles: 1 Having bones as wide as the belting. the Grean Co. The object of the bone above the belt is especially useful to unlined or loose linings as some of the material can be draped or attached to boning. Ohio Lesson 65.^XA. For sale by all upon leading druggists or mailed to you receipt of 50 cents.band may be of one piece be of one piece lined or faced.
fitting of the peplum all adjustments must be made at the joining is You should be it sure the pattern exactly the right is size about the waist before using. West 25th. effect fitted. Opposite New Market Page 44 Etc. across the chest in wrinkles let is too tight if or draws out from under the arm and too loose in the neck and across the chest take up the under the arms. be entirely done from the shoulder seams If it The fitting of the yoke must and the small space of the under arm seams. of the fashionable waists of today the is However. For the seams. tight or will Care must be taken that the peplum not made too draw up and wrinkle. COMF>AMY "Where things are as represented" A GREAT STORE ALWAYS BUSY Prices Always as 5"flK3 Low or Lower Than Elsewhere Dry Goods. is a part of the of garment and worn outside of the In is such not instances the in peplum must be exceptionally well any and all fitted or the good. but cases a yoke must be most carefully 76).keep in in proper position the gathers of the corset cover or waist. . Ready-to-Wear. style many the peplum waist. All alterations for the neck seam both on the shoulders and must be made from the shoulder seams only. Cut out (Lesson Baste up. peplum — gather the waist or corset cover if it at the yaist line and put on exactly as were a skirt you were attaching. Sew up seams If If either by machine or by hand (Lesson 41). fit and alter (Lesson 77). yoke — attach collar (Lesson 66 or 68). Rugs.
' . Press again. so the canvas will keep .in its proper place. 3. * -. so best to buy the under collars ready made. which if is 3 necessary for the material which you are using. write us. but if you wish to try to them yourself the following instructions should be followed: make Cut out exactly after pattern. 4. sufficient 1 in collar to hide lining. Large stitches and an uneven turn of the material of the collar would ruin the appearance of the most beautiful suit.'/] . . Collars" a regular //-^^\ A /i'/""" /A *J'f r'/x'f /'. \f'i 1 / . 5. . 4 5 6 — Sew —Sew —Sew on all trimmings and ornaments.— HIGH entire COLLARS. You will find Orean Tailor Made Coat Collars beautifully shaped and pressed. cutting it out the seam's width from the edges. on hooks and eyes (Lesson 59). 2.-JJ^C? Made Coat -^i ^hia is . . 7. for the canvas cannot be sewed in the seam with the lining without making it a little bunglesome.--V/ • '. in the A it perfect cut of tailored collars is shown above figure. 2—Turn seams around lining should be of cambric — Hem down with slant - Lesson 66. Attach lining of collar to right side of garment and sew down by machine. taking great pains that your stitches do not show any more than you can help and that you have entirely covered the seam of the underpart of the collar and that you have kept an even line. Lay right side of goods to right side of lining and baste. Accept no imitations or substitutes. Baste in soft pliable French canvas after you have carefully shrunk it. unless you are experienced in tailoring. We will supply you direct or through a reliable dealer and send you a catalogue of other dressmaking helps. Press very carefully.— TAILORED COLLARS. 9. Men's coats are never and invariably made in ' \ i \\ \ \ \ i /' ' ' ' 1 ' either black or grey cloth. designed by Mr. stitch. i underpart. Tailor-Notch < . Then bring the outside material of collar neatly and smoothly down. in collar supports (Lesson 60). "Tailor /ff. If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealer's. 10. / / ' . 6.' /'-'<> /jVA/ < 'C-'/y /. Catch the edges of the canvas to the cloth with the catch stitch (see Lesson 11). taking care the stitches do not show through. turning under the edge and carefully overcast (see Lesson 6). Sew on trimming. 8. It is not necessary any more to make collars of cloth to match on the ' . Lesson 67.' v/m "-- / ' ' '\ \ * Collar. being careful to keep the goods and the canvas and the lining always perfectly smooth.' ' \ vl | e_ 13C Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Company New York 327-329 East 34th Street.— Cut out (Lesson 76). Sew around the bottom edge and the sides and turn right side out. Grean for those who find it difficult to shape an<^ ma ke the under-collar. The tailored collars are rather difficult to is make 1. W"-"^ made \ \ so.
3 — If lined turn right of lining to right of collar. business. are found throughout Lesson 68.YOUR CHARACTER SKETCH SCIENTIFICALLY GIVEN By the Expert and Noted Character Readers of the Acme Your perfectly defined College of Science — Incorporated under the laws of Ohio 1907 social Est. Toledo. material. 20). or the Page 46 .— TURN DOWN 1 COLLARS. most pliable French canvas and baste it smoothly on the wrong side of the 2 — — Cut out (Lesson 76). as Your character sketch three above stated and any questions scientifically and answered by mail. using the fine running stitch slant stitch (Lesson (Lesson 5).00.. personal The Acme College 1714 of Science its Adams St. Price $1. capacities. and is stitch at outer gar- edge. 6 If collar is to be left separate turn inside edges and neatly stitch or sew down by hand. and domestic qualities and your physical condition correctly diagnosed. America. 1899 abilities. perfectly Strictly confidential. only If stiffening is necessary use cambric or the finest. 5 right right side side edge of to of garment and —Turn — collar under side of edge of and hem down neatly to cover seam. softest. Ohio kind in The only incorporated College of Our students and satisfied patrons the United States and Europe. 4 — If collar to attach of top to ment turn collar stitch.
but much of the difficulty is removed if proper care is taken in observing the directions and in- structions and paying strict at- tention to the 1 notches. 327-329 East 34th St. Page 47 . 7 Baste together cuff and sleeve and sew in securely on machine. full- and tack again where the ness being most careful to have the notches come exactly together. but for garments where a permanent and a good shoulder They add a perfect outline to all shoulders. and Construction Guide. not noticeable. . page 54. the bottom terations. bottom of 6— Find the 5 1 and 3. 8 Gather top of sleeve between exact notches. except the opening of the sleeve where cuff is attached must be faced back. or face. are basted to canvas and you wA\ save a number of hours of alterations. and some are not.— Follow instructions (Lesson 69). 1Take a straight strip of the material. 4 Hem. — — of the sleeve or cuff. See Cutting Guide. Straight. Baste to cover seam and sew either by hand or on machine. thin. 9 Attach where notches of waist designate. on and if Try al- necessary make (Lesson 77). gather sleeve. ends. 3 Sew up seams on machine and press. Grean has designed special shoulder forms for different weight of garments from the lightest weight silk and taffeta. pliable. as to what to use. 2 Baste 3 4 — — —Turn down evenly and sew on machine. Many beginners think sleeves are the hardest part of the garment to put together. and fitters must use their judgment.— SHIRT WAIST SLEEVE. — Cut out. Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. — — — — — Lesson 70. New York Lesson 69. (Lesson 53). page 51.— SLEEVES. inside the coat.. (Lesson 48). and Sloping. High. to the heaviest automobile and fur garments. (Lesson 2— Baste up seams. 15c Per Pair Shoulder forms are made in different outlines. Some are padded. Mr. at the notch where the fullness begins in the sleeve and turning the right of the sleeve to the right of the cuff tack to the notch in the cuff — For No. 10 Sew in securely on machine. The ordinary lap closing is made the same as the lap pocket.PATENTED SHOULDER FORMS Shoulder Forms are used not for disfigured shoulders. lay right side against right side of goods. where the fullness starts. in edges of other side. if you will begin to fit by first placing the shoulder form in suchposition as you would like to have your coat appear. 76). They fit is desired.
327-329 E. —Cut two straight strips. except that the top of the flat coat sleeve. — Cut out exactly after pattern. COAT SLEEVE. designed for the purpose of correcting the general hollow parts between the Arm Hole and the Bust. New York is c Page 48 . If more of the fullness than COMBINATION This AR1VI PAD all fitters Combination Arm Pad. is an article used always by that have filling ever tried it. but instead of facing. The 1 lap closing as seen in sleeve No. write us and we will either your order or direct you to a reliable merchant. 3. • — For upper lap sew on in same manner. put damp cloth over and hold down firmly until you have pressed out all the superfluous fullness. The cuffs belonging to the sleeves are sometimes a little beginner. are completed before attaching to sleeve. If fill and your dealer cannot supply you. CUFF. The coat sleeve is made For this purpose the sleeve roll of the Grean Dressmaking Specialties will be found very useful. 34th St. The latter is much neater and gives a more tailored finish the top piece of the cuff is sewed into the seam. 2— lined turn right side of lining to right side of goods and stitch sides and bottom of 3 — Turn right side out and stitch again at the very edge of the —Attach as step 6 (Lesson 69). cuff.. 2— For 4 and the stitch. if the material is soft you can press out the material is hard or harsh. cuff. turning the top of strip either with perfectly square corners or in a neat V shape. or you may — Attach sleeve to lining of the cuff and turn back right edge of cuff and If cuff. requires a little soft foundation. and put on edge of pressing board. underlap put right side of strip to right side of sleeve 3 — Turn back and stitch by machine on both sides of strips.— LAP CLOSING. except your cuffs are either are attached at the bottom of the cuffs waist six Lesson 72. TURN BACK Make exactly the same as for shirt made of double length to turn back or instead of at the top. but outside of seam.— of Lesson 69. It is very simple in construction. plain The Band Cuffs are put on the same and CUFF— (Shirt They 1 Waist). which is so much in vogue now.— — Lesson 71. the bands are cut double width and turned back and hemmed over the seam which joins cuff and sleeve. Baste inside of the sleeve.. but a few suggestions mill make it plain just as 6 how 7 awkward for the to make them. 4 5 stitch to than when cover seam. and seven are omitted. CUFFS— PLAIN BAND. Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. Stitch your goods well over it. —The coat sleeve is much simpler as steps exactly according to instructions of Lesson 69.
except that their outer edge is usually joined in the facing or with the seam of the ruffle.—POCKETS. ZOA-PHORA COLD REMEDY Its improves the sight and hearing- most remarkable storing the impaired of effect is the clearing of the head. symptoms. is very simple to make. letting the needle pass through the entire thickness After a row of stitching has of threads from the bottom mark to the top. sore throat or nostrils. Dr. is the only one very much in evidence these days. etc. which treatment. back stitch the pouch into the slit of the garment. rendering the disease still more difficult to treat. together with the use of certain remedies in the treatment of the disease. Pengelly's Sure Shot) FOR Colds. slit from tearing into the cloth. Repeat this process until you have firmly secured the slit— then bring the thread through and work over and over. and_ revoice. been made at the bottom and both sides of the lap. The lap pocket as shown in the figure of the coat in Lesson 96.Lesson 73. It does not operate on the douche principle merely drying up and washing out the secretions. The most trifling exposure renews the attack. pain in the temples. The patch pocket. viz. For partial list see page 96 of this book. convinced the Doctor that LaGrippe was (from whatever inducing cause) a sudden and general congestion attacking more or less the whole system. headache. Pengelly was led to formulate force on the weaker parts. Dr. if taken promptly on the first signs of the disease— known by aching of the head. Hem tops and turn in bottom and both sides and stitch on garment. it should be fastened as Measure one-eighth inch above and one-eighth below the slit and mark. SoreThroat. To keep the follows: Zoa-Phora Cold Remedy (Formerly Dr. Cough. tightness at the root of the nose. Then draw your thread from the top mark in a straight line to the bottom mark and back again on the opposite side of the goods. back and limbs sometimes with chilly sensations and nausea— will almost invariably meet and control the disease. and stitch on the lap. Penhad been a careful student of its nature. as seen in Lessons 87 and 107. brow or cheek. and results. These investigations. Since the tiilly now justly famous ZOA-PHORA LaGRIPPE REMEDY. Sewing Apron pockets are made in the same way. The pocket should be of heavy mercerized goods made into a pouch the desired depth. thus preventing a tedious and perhaps dangerous illness. Back stitch the pouch into the slit of the garment and stitch on the lap. but restores the parts to healthy action. throat. Zoa-Phora La Grippe Remedy first invasion of the disease known as LaGrippe in this country. cough. Page 49 ." More suffering comes from neglected colds than from all other causes. Croup and Protection Against Pneumonia An old proverb says: "Never neglect a fresh cold if you would avoid sickness. dullness of hearing and smell. A NEGLECTED COLD. The lap must be cut on an exact grain of the goods and should be lined with silk or some light material.— Persons suffering thus are martyrs to every change of weather. the Price 50c per bottle The Zoa-Phora Cold Remedy and the Zoa-Phora LaGrippe Remedy are for sale at 50c per bottle at alllfirst-class drug stores. blurred eyes. A speedy and safe cure is invaluable.: Sneezing. hut showing its greater From these deductions. and at the same time increasing the severity of the usual symptoms. Such you have in Zoa-Phora Cold Cure.
Cleveland. Shino Chemical Handle Duster. rinsing in warm water good as new. Very thin goods should not be sponged Sponging not only helps your or shrunken. all Sold by good dealers. lint and germs. This is a slow process. or sent postpaid by the manufacturers. If you are not good at pressing it would be best to baste back your seams in their exact place until you get more accustomed to pressing them in place. especially anything with a mesh. but prevents its spotting and wrinkling so much. especially in making a wool garment. r»l| Ine rioneerMrg. Lesson 74. Much of the beauty of a gown depends upon its pressing. When filled makes them The The The The The The The Shino Chemical Dust Cloth. to. Ohio CHAPTER VIII. f*. always remembering it is almost impossible to put too much good press work on a garment. Wool goods should be laid right side down and a wet Repeat at ironing sheet placed over it and ironed until it is perfectly dry. garment to hold its shape better.— SPONGING AND SHRINKING. attract dust. wring out and then press until dry. Lesson 75. An electric flatiron is a great advantage to the woman doing her own dressmaking. and in pressing sleeves one should shrink considerable of the fulness that is apt to occur on the inside seam of the arm at the elbow. but twice is better. as the result of a marvelous chemical process. Wool goods should nearly always be sponged and shrunken as should ginghams and linens. with dust. least once. Shino Chemical Broom Cover. Ail 4" f* 522 ° Sweeney Ave. just as a magnet attracts steel. Shino Chemical Mitten Duster. but in case one is not at hand one must always. In pressing folds always see that the fold is perfectly straight. for a good presser can straighten out a multitude of little defects in sewing and stitching. Dampen and iron till the cloth is perfectly dry then dampen once again and repeat the pressing. Shino Chemical Floor Polisher. have a hot flat iron conveniently near. linens should be dipped in water in which has been placed a handful of salt. Simplex Mop Handle. Shino Chemical Dust Mop. while a poor presser can make the most carefully put together garment look badly. but your goods will Ginghams and stay fresh and in shape long enough to pay for your trouble.— PRESSING. Shino articles.Shino Dust Absorbing Articles Reduces the Labor of Dusting and Polishing One-half. Page 50 . Always have a good piece of cotton long enough to cover the entire seam.
cutting guide a child Review Patterns are error proof and with can lay out and cut a garment as well as an expert. CUTTING. It shows just how to lay out the pattern on the goods correctly and scientifically. No CUTTING GUIDE 4069 FOLD more than you OF 54 INCH MATERIAL WITHOUT Pictorial NAP' their need. There is absolutely no chance of cutting one piece the wrong way of the goods.Main 2189 SEWING MACHINE SUPPLIES AND REPAIRS BRYSON CO. just as an expert would lay it out in order to cut it from the least possible material. No chance of wasting an inch of material mistakes. One accompanies every Pictorial Review pattern. No chance of cutting two backs or two fronts because a careless folder picked up two pieces instead of one.— CUTTING GUIDE. and no Mistakes are impossible with this guide before you. we show their patent cutting guide. 823 Superior N. 1 Before beginning see that you have every thing necessary to go ahead. By courtesy of the CUTTING GUIDE 4-4/0 SIDE 6ftCK C^ POLO OP 36 INCH MflTERIflL WITH NAP BflO puzzling for hours to find how to lay out the pattern properly. — Page 51 . (See Department 6). E.. Pictorial Review Co. Central 2259-L For prices on any Sewing Machine or Supplies PHONE or CALL on Expert Repairer will Call and Give Estimate Lesson 76.
M. and one chosen with due regard for the material to be made up and for the occasion of the wearing of the garment.with a good paper pattern for your size and suitable to height and individuality. to 2 P. M. your is thrown out when you start to make alterations. but get your own size otherwise the entire proportion of your garment 2 —Provide yourself style. Main-2371-J C— 6417 r £ ar=H r=]G "N \ The Mandarin No. to 2 P.M.M. After Theatre Parties a Specialty Private Dining Rooms Reserved for Dinner Parties Special Attention Given Ladies without Escorts Our Kitchen is Open for Inspection to Patrons from 11:30 A. Page 52 . Do not make the mistake of buying a pattern a size too large or a size too small. 622 Prospect Avenue ^n i — i i =ir=i i==i r=i i= ir^=: it=H Cleveland's Finest and Most Elaborate Chinese-American Cafe Shoppers' Novelty FROM 11 Luncheon A.
then it fold. goods are 7 When the width of the goods will permit lay the pattern on the double fur or plush. at prices that are no more and often less than elsewhere Good Values Courtesy Page S3 Progressiveness . right angle of should rub up. baste it up and make all necessary alterations of the pattern (Lesson 77).-. 5 If the garment has a lining cut the lining out first.your goods are wool or gingham or such as need attention follow directions (see Lesson 74). A RELIABLE STORE The Boston Dry Goods 8813-17 Wade Park Avenue 13592 Euclid Avenue 8601 Detroit Avenue 14712 Detroit Avenue Co. Striped or plaid materials must be perIf the fectly matched so the strips run into the seams on the same angle. Ohio Selling Merchandise that bears the Stamp of Quality. 6 Follow exactly the construction guide for laying on your pattern which you have altered to fit your figure. Cleveland . and will save you many possible is — 8— Pin down the pattern. This is of vital importance to the success of your garment. for preparation. no properly laid on cut out with very sharp shears so the goods are not frayed or haggled and under no circumstances fail to cut out every notch indicated on the pattern. flowered or have a design see that it all runs in the same direction. and if your goods have a nap very strict attention must be given that the grain or nap lie in the same direction. UnlO LakeWOOd. 10 Then with tailor's chalk or with a colored cotton thread run a line showing all the marks and perforations of the pattern. which furnished free with every Pictorial Review pattern. See that every piece is on precisely the — your material as designated on the construction guide. being most wrinkles either pattern or goods. 11 —Then proceed to baste together as is directed in Lesson 77.. 9— When absolutely sure every piece in careful to have it perfectly flat and — errors. 4 Iron out every piece of your pattern and identify each section and if there is any doubt in your mind compare it with the similar piece on the construction guide. and fit it perfectly 3 If — — — before cutting into the dress goods. and ac- cording to the construction guide. The nap should always rub down except velvet. until you have made sure what it is and where it belongs.
Grean System of Fitting. ONELLY 120. according to waist measure. Main 5283 Ground Floor 327-329 East 34th Street. FITTING AND ALTERATION. Cen. beauboned. or through a reliable dealer. which protrude above the belting and are finished with hooks and This is the new eyes.. We will supply you direct. is shaped seamless belt. boning. making of waists. Williamson Bldg. specially for the summer or for warm climates. and the upper part of coarse Net which forms just the right kind of a foundation for light waists. work and worry can be avoided by procuring the Grean Fitted Waist Linings and Foundations as it saves all of the labor of cutting basting. putting on the hooks and eyes. to be guided by the waist and not by the bust.— CONSTRUCTION. write us.. get off at East 152nd St. show you Always Page 54 . or the one accompanying your pattern. But if you decide to make your own lining or foundation the following directions must be carefully followed. hours of time. #100 down and $10 month buys a lot 40x125 for $750. constantly before you for it In the — CONSTRUCTION GUIDE 44JQ SLEEVE SECTIONS 'SIDE will BACK C plainly which pieces to join together and just where to join see that the notches correspond and that the seams are taken up on exactly the line shown and that each portion of your goods is in ar- them. Take Euclid Beach Car to Beach Grove on Lake where all installed Shore Boulevard. These are made in Black and White. New York Lesson 77." "VOTES FOR WOMEN are not so necessary as 44 Greanet »» LOTS FOR Many WOMEN are buying Invisible Home of them Sites in Waist Foundations Are used in making light weight lace or chiffon waists where a t ght-fitting lining would be out of place. The" made with a wide. Do not attempt to put your garment together without this construction guide. etc. and needs to be fitted only by adjusting the seams above the boned portions and on the shoulders. 2044 Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. It tifully BEACH GROVE improvements are being and homes erected. 121. 122 If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealers.
Have rpT?T T TIVT/^'C 1 EEd lULLllMjiS ICECREAM? CONSTRUCTION GUIDE4069 French . We shall be glad to demonstrate it at any time. but with the White you simply a very raise a latch. for the effect lies in perfect lines and it is impossible to obtain these without good basting. The greatest of care should be taken in the basting up of the seams of your garment. Form Made wide of Finished handy tool to have around. cut it out. Page 55 Sizes 22 to 33 inclusive Waist Measure. Boned Girdle A SCREW is DRIVER. It's with another time saver which herringbone belting hooks and the busy operator will surely appreciate. you don't care to use it unnecessarily.«e . With a great many Rotary machines in order to remove the Shuttle one has to use a screw driver and take out three screws. White Sewing Machine Co. r 35c at eyes Don't forget it! The White Rotary means more to you in a sewing way than you can think. Your Dealer BOTH PHONES 426 Prospect Ave. all necessary alterations before cutting into the dress goods. for it takes time. but naturally.. Black or White ^.American cordance with the diagram of your construction guide. put it together and fit it. For Unlined Waists and Dresses USE Grean Shaped Seamless.. If the garment has a lining. and make See cut 4410.
Bell South 188-L Off. Monks Osteopathic Physician 302 Lennox Building Treatments by Appoin tmen t Res. Margaret B. Bell Main 3938 .Central Dr.
well made gown. you will then be ready to cut into your dress goods. alterations must be made from the shoulder seams and arm hole. Then follow the specific instructions of the lesson. at the hip line of the front and side gores. hole. Gymnasium Open Oct. After you have properly cut and fit and altered the lining of the waist and measured and adjusted the pattern of your skirt. which you are following in making the garment in hand and you cannot fail to have a well fitting. Electric Light and Shower Rest West Side Branch Franklin and W. If the hips are too large. two inches below the lower line of the Square or Sloping Shoulders. Care must always be taken alter To for — — — not to take too large a seam across the hips. 32nd Lake Grove Farm St. Baths Massage Madison. and gradually slant to meet the side back seams. The same general instructions of careful work and perfect fitting and correct alterations apply to the making of all garments. until you have a perfect fit. To take up skirt at waist. If the hips are too small. but do not alter any seams to remedy this trouble. 1 Boating Bathing Out of Door Life Turkish. Or if skirt must be enlarged at waist. for if too tight the skirt will wrinkle and draw. between shoulders or across chest or at neck or armhole. — — — and backs. and let out gradually the seams the deIncrease also the side sired width. however. and its length adjusted from the bottom or six inches below the hips. Begin at the same point six inches below the waist and decrease the size of the seam. the necessary width. as alter. —Take arm up a seam. extending each gore an inch at the top.To alter for very straight figures.. and fill in the hollow of the back by sanitary pad. except the front and the front edges of the side gore seams. than to alter the back of the skirt any more Fpr flat — the back seams.If garment wrinkles. Ohio Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister to Sept. Begin six inches below the waist line. Begin six inches below the waist line of remembering. that it is better to take up fullness as possible. Begin six inches below the waist line and increase seam gradually until the correct size is obtained about the waist. To alter for large abdomen. being careful to keep a perfect seam line. much of the a hygenic and than absolutely necessary. carefully but before the outside material is cut into you must know that your pattern and lining are both altered exactly right. Ohio Page 57 . Begin six inches below the hip line and decrease the width of the seam. Skirts must be altered in the seams. edges of the gores. 1 Summer Camp Apply to the 1 Open July 1 to June Systematic Exercise and Recreation Young Women's Christian Association Prospect Avenue and 18th Cleveland. Begin six inches below the hip line and gradually take up the seam. and the same general instructions apply.
dressed —her gloves. tears or spots are ever visible and no hooks. B. together with an appreciation of the appropriate either with and the beautiful. postpaid. handkerchiefs She always has her hair neatly and and neckwear and all her are immaculately clean and no rips. These unsightly. eyes or buttons ever missing and her shoes are always clean Her skirts always hang evenly and her belt never is out of place or shined. Ohio CLEVELAND. dress. OHIO Page 58 . Scientific beauty culture means bodily and scientific —that to is. & P. Schofield Bldg. (Two Women) 1790 East 68th Street Cleveland. Sold at drug and department stores. safe.— CHAPTER woman The well harmony and appropriateness of groomed becomingly fineries is XII. which make the face look old and cross are unnecessary— remove them with the Crown and Bridgework a Specialty B. but with her If she is inclined to be stout she does not wear plaids individuality and style. telling marks of time. CO. more our duty to ourself as well as to others to be all that is bright and healthy and beautiful. Both are put up in 25c. and gowns herself to express an innate sense of refinement and good taste. Wrinkle Eradicators.00 boxes. & P. certain. In fact the well groomed woman studies herself. The well groomed woman's clothes are never loud or conspicuous and the colors always harmonize not only with the occasion for wearing. leaves no marks. or reds or pinks or any of the colors or materials suitable only for slight. contains no chemicals. FROWNERS are for the lines between the eyes. & P. care or culture of that beauty which or less. 50c and S1. We cannot be this if our livers are out of order and our complexion anything but what we would wish open pores. neatness. If your dealer cannot supply you we will send by mail. including booklet on care of face. SCIENTIFIC BEAUTY CULTURE. the wrinkles erased and the beauty greatly increased by the nightly application of these well known B. and above all her collar is always in perfect position and neatly fastened fancy pins or with invisible fasteners. on receipt of price. Seventh Floor. It Mother Nature gave the wisest everyone. fairy-like figures and a painfully thin woman does not show good teste in wearing stripes and such combinations as are supposed to be worn only by women desiring to reduce the appearance of their size. Wrinkle Eradicators Simple. at birth. THE WELL GROOMED WOMAN. skin dry and is — Frank Dowd DENTIST LOOK OLD? Wrinkles are only skin deep. The skin can be made smooth. one who exhibits cleanliness.
FACIAL MASSAGE.00. Rue Chauvain REGISTERED TRADE MARK Page 59 .00. TIRED EYE TREATMENT restores tired. corners of eyes and over forehead. Bottle. 75c. either that a gross ''double-chin" is beginning to form. GANESH DIABLE SKIN TONIC. for tender. $5. $2. are the antithesis of "make-up". $2. LONDON 92 21 West 38th Street. $5. GANESH EASTERN BALM SKIN FOOD $3. Faithfully used they accomplish the most wonderful results everything that is claimed for them. Electrolysis is almost painless. THIS PHOTO PORTRAYS THE GANESH CHIN STRAP ($5. ph one G reeley 1 3475 Bond New St. including the Strapping Muscle Treatment. strengthens the skin. ADAIR'S GANESH TOILET PREPARATIONS AND FACIAL TREATMENTS obtainable for years only at her Salons in New York. These Imported Appliances. to become deeper day by day.50) lost contour. $6. pendulous — MRS. withered skins to velvety SUPERFLUOUS HAIR TREATMENT HYGIENIC smoothness. owned and patented by Mrs. which with maturer years will surely become a hard line between it and our original chin.00) which cures deep lines between brows.50. as they reach the CAUSE of all blemishes and re-establish by natural means a healthy complexion. $2. by antiseptic $2. dry skins. Paris and Nice.50. and in consequence there are flabby. fills lows and removes wrinkles. holGANESH EASTERN MUSCLE OIL braces sagging muscles. discolored eyes to proper smoothness and fulness. illness and time. on looking sideways into our hand glass. a splendid face wash. WRITE FOR VALUABLE BOOK containing list of all GANESH Preparations and Treatments and much beauty information and advice.unhealthy a state of neglect that makes the lines wrought by worries. with a line like a big wrinkle. Sometime we may be rudely awakened by finding. or that the muscles and tissues of the cheeks have become relaxed. originated. $1. closes pores and alleviates skin flabbiness and puffiness under the eyes. $3. W. Bottle. can be obtained nowhere else in the world. sparkling eyes and a youthful contour.00. which removes double chin and and the restores GANESH FOREHEAD STRAP ($4.50. restores lined.00. Adair exclusively.50.00. $5. lined. NEW YORK. — MAIL ORDERS FILLED for all preparations and appliances on receipt of cheque. 75c.00.50. PARIS Cambo Cambon MIPP" ll*\_I-.00. $1. London.
Personal instructions by D. Stone's Shoe Store Send 12 cents sale all for sample.OH ^ > 1VIY FOOT . raises and gives back the youthful shape and appearance to the face. MAUD 716 Permanent Bldg.. Adair's methods of reducing superfluous flesh." which you may have for the asking by mail or in person at the parlors of Mrs. N. In youth the soft.m.. double chin and restoring a youthful contour. to which so many women owe their rejuvenated appearance. or any other cause. of eliminating deep frown lines. hanging on either side of the chin. teachers and the DeLong's Cucumber and Almond Massage Cream Used and recommended by Cleveland's best people. removing lines. No woman need lose the shape of her features nor the grace of her figure if she practices the Ganesh Exercises and Treatment. for into place. be one of them and Let Me Give You a Sample lar ELLSWORTH COLLEGE 514 Permanent Bldg. altogether altering the shape of the face and adding years to our age. originators. There have been many treatments for the difficulties and for the cure of double chins. of treating tired. sole • Ellsworth. exposed to heat and cold. Mrs.. R.m. 0. "How to Retain and Restore Youthful Beauty of Face and Form. absorption of some of this fat takes place. MRS. adverse climates. rounded contour is maintained in all its attractiveness by the support afforded by the fat beneath it to the skin that lies smoothly over it like unwrinkled satin. 323 Euclid Ave. New York. Y. Cleveland Recommended by N. Stone Prop. and the skin falls into lines and furrows. Huron Bldg. For stores. but nothing has ever met with anything like the instant and entire success of the wonderful. in 2462 -J bags. effective treatment called the Ganesh Strapping Muscle Treatment. and Mine. off. taught. Call owners of Ellsworth System. 0. DeLONG SKALLA Dermatologist and Chiropodist Page 60 . Adair at 21 West 38th them — St. Cleveland. Creme de Luxe 505 Hours S a. Dr. which are so clearly and thoroughly explained in the interesting and instructive book. hollows are formed in cheeks and temples. is All foot troublespermanently relieved by scientific corrections under supervision of a surgeon. 1V1<i to 6 p. Buffalo.KJ y- ' _• Creme de Luxe a delightful preparation to use in Does not wear place of powder. Toledo. Our everyare graduates where. yellow or blood-shot eyes are marvelously efficacious. this even support of the muscles and skin is withdrawn. and loses its beauty of coloring. it restores tone to the flabby muscles. FULTON Manicuring and Chiropody Room 604 Standard Bldg. Beckman Bldg. scientific and constant care. from illness. Your skin is not a dead thing to be left alone it is a sensative part of you. Ellsworth All Facial of College branches beauty science V. 6U0 Madison Ave. and filling out hollows. But when. 0. it needs skillful. Makes skin soft and velvety.
THE WARDROBE. but in all of which restores the original brilliancy and lustre to furniture. Ties. hardwood finish and hard- Polishes and wood floors. Mamma" 4 5 11 14 19— Bath Robe. 16— House Gowns. Cleveland. accessories. Page 61 . 30— Scarf. when the subject of renewing their wardrobe presents itself. must be considered case an incidental cost in you to are planning all on just so much at A few drops on your dustcloth does the work. 7 — Drawers. —Furs. 26 Monarch Polish Not will fix it 29—Veils. 18— Kimona. 9 — Corsets. Often one does not know when to begin. 10— Petticoats. especially if one is preparing their clothes in advance for the season or perhaps arranging for a trip or a visit or for some occasion where a rather complete outfit is needed. Standard Polish for 35 years. 20— Housekeeping Gowns. — Union Suits. 0. 6— Sanitary Belt. Belts. 15 — Dinner Gowns. & CO. — numerous mention. 24— Handkerchiefs. 13 — Traveling or Street Gowns. Conno acid or injurious ingredients. 25 — Collars. 17 — Negligee Gowns. — Corset Covers. Large size bottle 25c at your dealers' money should itures supply your needs. 8 — Brassieres. — Evening Gowns. Added too to these are the numberless trifles to tains a varnish dries instantly. — Night Gowns. 1 2 3 "Never Mind. 27 — Coats. Below we give a list which will help you in planning and serve to remind you of the essentials of every woman's complete wardrobe. 23 — Hair Dress. — Chemises. 28—Jewelry. and least 10 per cent of your entire appropriation for incidental be reserved expend- BAIRD BROS. 22— Millinery. —Hosiery. pianos. 12— Shoes. —Sanitary Skirt Protector. 21 — Aprons.
POSTPAID. So much depends upon this one point. neither will the most expensive. and that is a are most unwill unless properly constructed not stay clasped or will not hold the napkins in place. in fact the foundation of your entire appearance to say nothing of your health and comfort lies in the well fitting corset. Order large enough to drop well down over hips. Wright & Sons Co. as it does not constrict the waist and is designed and cut on the idea of supporting the abdomen. E." High Grade Elastic Ladies' Improved Sanitary Side. and while supporting the bust. are but few more ruinous habits than the use of safety pins and is There improvised methods character. you are unable to procure it from your dealer. At All Dealers "W. heart In other words it will allow one to dress according to the and stomach. to 48 ins. but without the torture.. send us his name and 25c for sample belt. latest styles. F Manufacturers For Comfort 40 Lispenard St. gown will (C) SANITARY BELTS.(A) CORSETS. If sizes 22 inches to 48 inches inclusive. inclusive. New York City Page 62 . Ladies Improved Sanitary Belt and we have found no better on the market. of fastening and your outfit not complete without a belt of this have carefully examined the W. — We A Standard Pattern with our improved "Never-Slip Clasp" ( Patent Applied For ) Requires No Safety Pin Easily Adjusted in sizes Absolutely Secure Made 22 ins. like many other corsets do. Dept. Sizes of Belts are actual waist measure. that the choice and judgement of the most experienced corsetiere should be consulted. lungs. but a well made can not only be worn with comfort but can be easily adjusted and will prove secure. many makeshifts on they are the market. there are satisfactory. for unless your corset fits your individual figure. We at all times recommend the Berthe May "Hygie" corset as we find its hygienic and physical advantages cannot be disputed. & N. that There is one small as article no woman should be they without but they either belt Sanitary Belt. for the fit of your gown carriage. it allows entire freedom and full expansion to the chest. carefully made garment look its best. B. instead of pressing it down. your entire wardrobe that should be given more There is no the grace of your careful attention than your corsets. Webbing at Front and Back Wm. N.&N. the same as with any ordinary corset. your article in — not fit perfectly.
as flexible as fine linen. Always recogour United States.00 and $2. made with lace net yoke affording perfect ventilation and can be readily laundered.s that it cannot be ex elled for com ort. Page 63 . women. O. less Beware of worthimitations. $1. Call and let us demonstrate this article to you. and theatrical The excellent material used guarantees its wearing is made in medium large size selling at Price 50c.(C) SKIRT PROTECTORS. 117 purchasing. odorless. fit and durability. The Ama Sanitary Skirt Protector has so many c salient featur. It is absolutely waterproof. nize trademark before A1VIA CO. For misses and business ladies in mode summer of ladies' attire or evening dress. sanitary skirt protector a necessity to A AMA PSmmfW^ An article every is *^&™ woman will of welcome market THERE now on the the needa ready-to-wear which you wardrobe acce:sory. is every woman's wardrobe. We recommend the skirt protector as one that will give entire satisfaction. tourists. The Ama Sanitary Skirt Protector is an article especially desirable for the present dress. but have never before been able to secure in an ideal form. If you get a good one you can wash unless a sure protection is afforded.00 each qualities. nmde of a high grade white rubber muslin. nurss people it is almost indispensable. CLARENCE BUILDING CLEVELAND. THE AMA Sanitary Skirt Protector Patented Sept. 1908 This garment and This article is fully protected Sanitary Skirt protector will be mailed to any address in the receipt of price the Upon Ama by patent. 22nd. for one is never safe at certain times to wear their gowns and dainty underwear. have doubtless often realized. and press it and always have it in perfect condition.
but the majority of women Waist Cannot Be Displaced pyramid "Units" grip and keep waist from riding up. Price 15 Cents at Department Stores AGENTS WANTED DAVID BASCH. chemise. elastic sides. 15 E. Price 15 Cents. should wear a waist supporter in order that a good about the waist can always be relied upon. off into the their eye as to color (E) SHIRT WAIST SUPPORTERS. New York Page 64 ." take double hold without undue pressure.ARBORj TEA SHOP Earner flat ^oppe where 6541 Euclid Avenue Exclusive Models in Dress and Tailored Hats. sent postpaid. corset covers and drawers should be of dainty muslin or fine linen. Dept. No sharp points to hurt fingers. The night gown.. but for church and theatre wear one A may branch more elaborate and trimmed effects and can satisfy and decoration of ribbons. refinement and a respect for the shape. Even though the edging and insertion be of fine lace or embroidery it will greatly add to the beauty of the garment to have at least a small floral design of hand work. 17th St. on receipt of price. 1/ not at dealers. CORNER SUPERIOR AND 105TH THE WARNER HAT SHOPPE considers it possible for every woman to have an Individual Style A Gift all Shop and Tea Room can be found Novelties in Art and Needle Work (D) MILLINERY. style and setting of one's face and features. Pat'ee &Mfr. and if possible hand embroidered in any of the beautiful designs which can so easily be procured and done. effect There is no better (F) LINGERIE. graceiul. when wearing a waist that is separate from the skirt. practical. great improvement over old style belts. the street or traveling should be selected of one of the soft plain shapes with simple trimming. held in by patented " loop. skirt supporter on the market than is shown below. at back. with so much pleasure at one's leisure time if handy with the needle. Metal parts cannot rust. gown as the waist There is nothing that ruins the entire appearance of a out of place above the belt line or perhaps showing a dividing line between the skirt band and the waist line. both French and Domestic. Every careful dresser.. feathers and flowers. Self-acting buckle stays put. S. Simple. Many make these garments entirely by hand. Little rubber The "LOOP-HOLD" Shirtwaist BELT corrects a common fault in dress. but great care should be used that the selection be one that exhibits taste. hat for business.
be a cloth a rain-proof fabric of "Cravenette" proof is a process which The process permeates every fibre renders a cloth or garment water-proof. rendering the cloth permanently rain-proof, and rain will then of the yarns, You can have your coat, suit, wrap, or neither wet nor spot the garment. motoring garments made from the Priestley Cravenette Cloths, and you will If you are obliged to be out in all kinds of find your needs perfectly met. weather, rain or shine, you should by all means have a "Cravenette" rain-coat. We specify "Cravenette," because a genuine Cravenette-proof coat contains no rubber, is porous to air, yet rain-proof and has not the disagreeable odor common to most raincoats, and too, there is not the stiffness of the material, which renders many of the rain coats so undesirable and unattractive. The Cravenette-proof process leaves the cloth just as supple as before and every The main point to bear in fibre of the yarns is made thoroughly rain-proof. mind is to get a rain-coat that is strictly hygienic, keeping the dampness out without preventing ventilation. However, if you are only out in an occasional sprinkle or shower, a rain-coat is unnecessary, but you should have a street
(G) RAINCOATS AND people imagine Cravenette some sort but such is not the case.
or business or traveling suit
any of the Priestley cloths of serviceable
and wearable mohair suitings, serge, chevoit, whipcord, etta, which you can get "Cravenette" proof.
Silk y^^y^pti^^fiyci^ Labe
stamped on the inside and a sewed at the collar or elsewhere.
None Genuine Without Them
applied to many kinds of cloth suitable for outer garchildren's men's, women's and ments in light, medium and heavy weights for seasons of the year, and are for wear in rain or shine.
" Rain Will Neither
Wet Nor Spot Them."
They con t ain no Rubber, have no
disagreeable odor; will not overheat or cause perspiration.
For sale by leading dealers in Men's, Women's and Children's Clothing.
Hoboken, New Jersey
postal to the
Co., 100 Fifth Avenue, will bring interesting booklet.
A DROP OF OIL
annoyance, and more than that, when it gets on goods that you are anxious to keep clean. The oil cup on the White Rotary prevents all trouble of the kind. It's a trifle, but
by attention to the little things that make the White Rotary the very best machine you can buy. Our terms will surprise you by their
White Sewing Machine Go.
426 Prospect Ave.
Lesson 78.— CORSET
nainsook, muslin, sheer lawn, linen, or any thin fine material.
tucks (Lesson 54). Join seams with French seam (Lesson 47).
Gather at waist line son 64). Finish neck and armholes with embroidery scallops (Lesson 22), or face on right side with very fine embroidery. See Lesson 53.) Embroider any desired design (Lessons 19-25 inclusive). Make eyelets and run in ribbon to hold in fullness (Lesson 25). Close with small buttons and buttonholes (Lessons 29-30).
(Lesson 65). and make band of goods or of beading for belt (Les-
Cut out (Lesson
Join with either plain or French seams.
(See Lessons 41 and 47.)
Face both sides of opening (Lesson Face around top for belt (Lesson
Make buttonholes (Lesson 27). Sew on buttons (Lesson 30).
have not the time to put so much personal labor on their wardrobe, but the character of a woman is more easily discerned by the daintiness, prettiness and completeness of her lingerie, than by the beauty or elaborateness of her best gowns.
In France, a bride has never less than 12 pieces of each article of underwear beautifully done by hand work and exhibited with great pride to all her
buying and making these garments that your lingerie with care will last for many years to come, and you can afford to put more time and expense on them than on your outside garments that change style, color and design to suit every whim and caprice of fashion.
Lesson 80.— CHEMISE. Procure a good chemise pattern and make exactly as instructed in (Lesson 79), on the making of night gowns.
Lesson 81.— NIGHT GOWN. Cut out (Lesson 76). Join with dainty French seam (Lesson Embroider neck and edge of sleeves (Lesson 22), or fact on the right side with any desired trimming of embroidery or lace fine (Lesson 53). Embroider desired design. (See Lessons 19 to 25 inclusive).
Make eyelets (Lesson 25) neck, and draw about through ribbon to adjust
Lesson 82.— COMBINATION UNDERGARMENTS. Cut out (Lesson 76). Fit carefully (Lesson 77). Join all seams with French seams (Lesson 47). Set in yoke (Lesson 65). Put on beading and edging (Lesson 57). Sew on ruffle (Lesson 56). If for open drawers face both sides of opening (Lesson 53). Close with small buttons and buttonholes (Lesson
drawing it through the slit on the opposite side. Join ruffle (Lesson 56). silk. Hem (Lesson 48). DRESSING SACQUES AND KIMONAS. Parrish Funeral Director Bell Phone.Lesson 83. Page 68 . business and traveling gowns. and where the fullness commences make a slit on each side and insert a tape. but have them made the proper length to wear with your For your sireet. for it is the dainty feminine expression of lingerie and negligee garments that expresses the refined womanly tastes and will prove of pleasure to you so long as they last. house and evening gowns.— PETTICOATS. Make buttonholes (Lesson 29). soft flannels or in fact almost any pretty Have your negligee gowns as attractive as your skill fabric may be used. Join seams (Lesson 41). East 135 1738 East 55th Street Cut out (Lesson 76). Have plenty of white skirts plain or elaborate to match your other lingerie of your outfit.— SKIRTS AND UNDERWEAR WITHOUT PLACKET. Face upper edge of the garment (see Lesson 53). The slit should be carefully worked with the button hole stitch (Lesson 24). heatherbloom or even a good quality of sateen is preferable. Face top (Lesson 53). Sew on buttons (Lesson 30). lawns. and means will permit. challie. dimities. Stitch the facing down securely. QBE Lesson 84. The material can be of large figured silk. GUI Chapel in Connection Jay P. fleece lined goods.
not go to the
Kimonas and Art Laces"
before buying ?
150 The Arcade
See Our Beautiful Designs and Get Our Low Prices
Lesson 85.— DRESSING
Cut out (Lesson
pleat in back.
Face collar (Lesson
elbow and shirr around
waist (Lesson 55), and finish with dainty
of bright ribbon at the waist.
Lesson 86.— KIM ON A.
Cut out (Lesson
seams on machine.
bottom of garment (Lesson
Make yoke and attach (Lesson 65). Make sleeves and put in (Lesson
Face edges and sleeves (Lesson
facing should be of satin or
ing shade of the same or a lighter material.
scientific drugless treatment
Aprons are the simplest of all garments to make, No. 3857 is especially easy to make. Cut out goods (Lesson 76). Face all edges (Lesson 53). Make pocket (Lesson 73)." Make one buttonhole and sew on button (Lessons 29-30).
No. 3180 requires a little more time and effort. Cut out (Lesson 76). If embroidery for ruffle, bib and pockets is not used hem ruffle (Lesson 48). Face bib and pockets (Lesson
Put on ruffle (Lesson 56). Put on pockets (Lesson 73). Gather and join bib to skirt of
Put on band (Lesson 64).
Is This the
Is that the condition of your nerves? If so, your system is just like the violin shown above; utterly unable to perform the work for which it was intended. Until there is an improvement in these conditions, there is no chance for harmonious action between the various organs of the body. The office of the nervous system is to control and direct the vital forces. If the nerves are not strong, healthy and in proper tone they cannot do this work any more than can the violin give forth sweet and melodious music when "all unstrung."
You Do Not Need
a Nerve STIMULANT, But a NERVE Food. a Nerve Food and Strength Builder.
At the same prepared especially to build up and strengthen the nervous system. time it purifies the blood and regulates the circulation, so that the nerve centers may distribute the vital forces to the organs in need. If you'are only slightly nervous, you ought to take ZOA-PHORA at once and thus thwart the onward march of the disease. If your nerves are already in such a shattered condition that they are threatened with nervous prostration, ZOA-PHORA will give you relief and strengthen your nervous system.
95 for the Special
Lesson 88.— LINGERIE WAIST. Choose your pattern and
follow the instructions of
desired design and effect and mak-
ing according to
Sleeves, Lesson 69 or 70.
Collars, Lessons 66, 67 and 68. Yoke, Lesson 65. Trimmings and Finish, Lessons 54, 57, 58 and 62. If a Lining is desired make according to Lessons 76 and 77.
Lesson 89.— HOUSE KEEPING GOWNS. Your house keeping gowns should be of percale or gingham or some wash goods so that at all times you can be immaculately clean. Have them made plain and simple so they can be easily gotten into and also have your aprons large, and of a material that washes neatly. Use instructions (Lesson 76), taking steps according to numbers; X-l, X-5, X-7, X-8, X-9, X-15. Then put on facing about sleeves, neck and down front and belt (Lesson 53). Now hem skirt (Lesson 48). Sew on buttons and make buttonholes (Lessons
Easy to Pay the Rosenblum Way"
STYLISH GOODS Woman
pays the bill
WE GIVE STAMPS
We Make Good Unsatisfactory Purchases We Never Misrepresent
GIVE US A CALL
Credit Clothing Co.
2014 Ontario St. Cor.^hamplain
Mr. Rosenblum Himself
and leave collar loose. 3 Fit and make any necessary alterations (Lesson 77). turning to the specific lesson as indicated. — Gather at waist 5 7 line in and attach a belt or stitch bias band to hold gathers secure. etc. — — — — — — Hem the underside of the front closing. Upstairs Lesson 90. & Pacific Tea Company's Store 2165 Ontario Street. Hundreds of are added to our already large patronage every is There We We is a Reason — High Rent District. Jewelry. 9 Lesson it 91. 6—Make sleeves and attach (Lesson 70). All Goods Sold on $1. Waists. — — Make buttonholes and sew on buttons (Lesson 29-30). — GOWNS. and stitch on both sides of pleat. We do not have any collectors. pays for both at all stores where they give them). 1 Cut (Lesson 76). Our operating expenses are low. The quality of our merchandise is the best and our guarantee of absolute satisare not in the faction is given with every sale.00 a Week Payments Complete furnishers — Hats. Shoes. growing by leaps and bounds. front and back. do not handle any premiums nor give trading stamps (the customer. Suits.— SHIRT WAIST.There Must Be a Reason Why our business new customers month. —We will give directions for making gown 4533 as contains nearly every element and requires the explanation of nearly all points of dressmaking. Dresses. Coats. Skhts. 2 Join with plain seams (Lesson 41). 8 Make collar (Lesson 66). 4 Form box pleat in right front. CLEVELAND CREDIT CLOTHING Over Atlantic CO. of course. you cannot fail to develop your Page 72 . By following these instructions carefully and faithfully. and attach or put on neck band (Lesson 64).—A shirt waist is something it seems no one has too many of they are so useful and so necessary for so many occasions and can be constructed of such a variety of fabrics and in such a wide range of styles.
Ptawi 3fttBtrufitum .
If you wish to please your husband's palate just give him some of the good. REVIEW The Pictorial Chicago Paris Review Company St. are written by experts and their information is practical and daily useful..16 17 — Face bottom of skirt (Lesson —Sew on hooks and eyes (Lesson 53). You had better subscribe now and find out about our magazine and our patterns. a necessity in every home. its ideas will save much more than the cost of the magazine for a year. Charming Lingerie Frocks Smart Street Toilettes Afternoon Dresses in Foulards and Taffetas New and Fascinating Evening Gowns An Alluring Assortment of Lace Blouses in the New Casaque and Peplum Styles The PICTORIAL REVIEW is not wholly a fashion magazine although it carries more and better styles than any fashion magazine published. New York London Headquarters: Louis Berlin San Francisco Vienna St. and in harmony with the an evening gown the upper portion of both lining and material of the waist can be cut away. in the politics which make taxes high and her rent accordingly higher. The May Co. marketing. In short.. housekeeping. PICTORIAL REVIEW is "The Magazine for Women." It covers every range of woman's activity completely. find that she considers "home" to be the city. For To be Dressed Styles in the Latest Fashion Select Your from the Season's Number The PICTORIAL REVIEW FASHION BOOK For sale by The May Costs only 5c When Purchased with a 15c pattern For sale by Co. making as low or as high cut gown as desired. state and nation in which she lives. home decoration. believe that the real American woman does not consider "home" to be just the house in which she lives. The household departments in PICTORIAL REVIEW. The up-to-date American housewife is a thinking woman. and in many other subjects which are of vital importance to her daily living. She is very properly interested in the schools which her children shall attend. It is Its suggestions. The fiction stories in PICTORIAL RE- VIEW The are equal to the very best you can get anywhere. With these departments before you a magazine devoted wholly to housekeeping is a needless extravagance. 39th NEW YORK Page 74 . plain. etc. She is looking for more information constantly and PICTORIAL furnishes that knowledge. tasty dishes described in PICTORIAL REVIEW'S COOKING DEPARTMENT. special articles in PICTORIAL are on subjects of interest to women. departments on cooking. 222-224-226 W. in life insurance which cares for her REVIEW We We when the bread-winner is suddenly taken away. They make the so-called "fiction-magazine" unnecessary. 59). materia! Any ornamentation suitable to the occasion to be worn may be used.
and a number of cheap inappropriate useless garments purchased when one good garment of a more suitable nature would have been a better investment.Lesson 92. except the breteile is crossed in the front instead of the back.—EVENING AND DINNER GOWNS. 'Make exactly according to Lesson 91. as often too elegant evening gowns lie your unused and unenjoyed. yet sometimes the other extreme is met. or as magnificent as her station in life demands. elegance or elaborateness. Select carefully your materials with a view of perfect keeping with social demands and associates. Main . . and they should be as simple. Lesson 93. Every wardrobe should hold as many evening gowns as the individual will have need of. when the same amount of money expended in two or three simple evening frocks would have constantly served to the pleasure and needs. for a season 30. Phones 4598 Central 1379-W . For making see Lesson 91. but for younger women prettiness and daintiness and attractiveness should be the aim rather than richness. and the panel is used instead of the — GOWN — all-over flounce.
Boarding Home Transient Accommodations Employment Bureau Travelers' Aid .
from the short Eton coat to a 32 inch length coat so much worn now. will find coat. You requirements. you will find a Grean patented Shoulder form. it will be a good lesson and example to study Grean ready made and tailor- made make coat front foundation. New York Page 77 . The foundation for the front of your coat or jacket is very important. but the difference Some tailors sew cloth and canvas tolies chiefly in preparing the fronts.00 GREAN SHOULDER FORM & PAD CO. They are made of the best material appropriate for this purpose and are thoroughly sponged and shrunk. They are all very soft and pliable. gether and some tailors use fronts of canvas prepared separately to fit the outside. them in medium weight variety to suit tailor suit. in and renders it unfit to be used your garment. 327-329 E. and at the top. These tailor-made coat front foundations are made in different weights and lengths. in the shoulder. which is usually nothing but glue. 34th St. made of white French felt and edges of the best herringbone hair-cloth used for center stiffening.Lesson 96. lightweight silk or velvet Grean suits and fur garments. They in are a made variety upsuit to-date styles to different coats. but well tailored and firm enough to support and retain shape permanently. If your dealer cannot supply you write us immediately. but a tailored made coat front. must have more in it than an ordinary piece of canvas without preliminary preparations of careful sponging and shrinking. but it is also part of a pattern by which one can be safely guided. The present styles demand soft coat fronts. Tailor-Made Coat Fronts Foundations are distinguished by their beautiful shaping and tailoring and every season the shapes change according to the prevailing To those who have found difficulty in making coat fronts for themfashions. to will make find a Those who are unable good tailor made front Grean's Tailor Made Coat for Front Foundations to be almost a necessity.. 50c to $1. There are several methods of making jackets and coats. you will notice that it is It is not only a foundation over a complete coat front. are protected with a white linen stay. but you can detect cheap worthless coat front foundations by their stiffness. for a tailormade coat or jacket. which can be purchased for much less than one can Accept no imitations or substitutes. all heavy winter selves. "Tailor. themself. from the lightest silks to the heaviest automobile garments. a wide button hole stay runs the whole length of the coat.Made' ' Coat Front Foundation By examining the drawing alongside which shows the inside view of the Grean Tailor-Made Coat Front Foundation.— CLOAKS AND SUIT JACKETS. A good sized arm-pad surrounding. which the cloth is placed..
and press (Lesson 75). 1 1 5). 35 to 50c 50c lost its original shape. for much of the beauty of the coat or cloak depends upon this part. —Make buttons and buttonholes (Lessons 29 and 30).no more particular work in dressmaking than the proper tailoring of a jacket or coat and you should never attempt to make one of these garments in a hurry. 2 5). beautifully shaped and used in either short coats or long coats where only bust reinforcing is necessary and If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealer's. sew up seams in desired manner (Lesson 41). in. — 8 Baste goods over lining and try on and fit perfectly (Lesson 77). GREAN SHOULDER FORM & PAD 6 CO. No work or stitches should be left visible on the lining. nicely finished garment and the saving of doing this work yourself will allow you to put extra money into a better grade of material than otherwise you could choose or you can practically buy the goods for another suit. 327-329 East 34th St. 9 When an exact fit has been obtained detach from lining. (Lesson 73). press and sew turning in the lining to 13 — Make collar and attach (Lesson 67). made of Hair-Cloth. NEW YORK — Baste ready in these bust forms of hair cloth or soft canvas. There is 4 — Lay on goods (Lesson 76— to — Cut out lining (Lesson 76— 3 — Baste up lining seams (Lesson — Fit and make necessary alterations (Lesson —'Cut outside material (Lesson 76—6-11). 14 — Make sleeves (Lesson 72). strict attention to the By paying Page 78 . IS — Again press the entire garment. 16—The trimmings can then be sewed on. above directions you will be able to work out a well fitting. in any style or manner desired. 7 Join seams of lining.. out and attach with very small slant stitches (Lesson 12 cover the seam. 5 Short Coat-Fronts Short Coat Front. 10 11 — — — Make and put pocket — Put in lining right side in 5). We will supply you direct or through a reliable used in garments where a coat front of canvas has been already used but has is extensively altering dealer and send you a catalogue of other dressmaking helps. 3). all 77). and press seams open. You can purchase made at any of our advertisers carrying Grean dressmaking supplies. write us.
Beware of dangerous imitations that contain mineral and poisons and which have'no established fifty reputation. Ten days' treatment will convince you that no matter how serious your condition a positive relief Sample free upon request. but the comfort of the individual to a large extent depends upon these two things. has been found.. The herself outfit an expectant mother prepares for entirely depends upon what her duties all require of her during this period. Cones are a female suppository. 50 CENTS.ZOA-PHORA Antiseptic Vitalizing CONES Are for local treatment and are antiseptic in their action on Diseased Tis- sue and Unhealthy Conditions. The Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing KALAMAZOO. ^6. They contain Nerve Tonics ANTISEPTIC which are absorbed into the Blood and VITALIZING COHES Give Vitality to the Whole System. They allay Inflammation and heal the irri71. must be given the matter of corsets and the lining of the gowns. MATERNITY OUTFIT. as not only the appearance. The Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones have in the past years permanently relieved thousands upon thousands of women and the price of a month's treatment for 50 cents makes them within the reach of all. a tated parts. L able and effective. CHAPTER XIII. P^t^£L. but in in- stances the clothing must be loose and comfortable and both the dress and underwear should be Special attento supported tion from the shoulders. Page 79 . Proprietors. MICHIGAN. reliPRICE. Read on the last page of this book your druggist' special offer to you of a free ten days' treatment of these Cones. safe. ZOA-PHORA CO.
BERTHE MAY. and upon examination and investigation we find that the "Lucine" corset is so constructed that it can be worn as early as wanted. which can be opened successively when more room is needed. abdominal support at all times. New York (98)— MATERNITY CORSETS. to preserve a normal appearance. and it can be reduced to a normal size and worn as long as desired after the child is born. enables women to dress as usual..00 Write for free booklet No. and allows the mother to dress as usual. to deport herself with the greatest comfort..BERTHE MAY'S Maternity Corset The only corset of this kind made for its own purpose. 46th St. in a normal condition. the same as an ordinary corset. sent under plain envelope. as it can be worn at any time. expectant mother should go without a corset. Mfr. thanks to its exclusive and It procures an absolute simple system of gradual enlargement. but she should never wear the ordinary style and cut. The Lucine corset can be made gradually larger when wanted. thus affording the comfort and safety so necessary in a weakened condition of the abdomen. The most celebrated maternity corset that has come to our notice is the Berthe May "Lucine" corset. on account of the healthy support which it gives both the abdomen and to the back. A maternity corset must combine as an abdominal support and a corset in fact it must be a protection to the abdominal walls against too great relaxation and yet must serve to give grace to the figure and to make it possible for her to go about and be active during the entire period.00 to $18. to be used whenever needed. No — Page 80 . Orders by mail filled with absolute satisfaction because of my perfect yet simple measurement system. Physicians use it in their own families aud prescribe it to their patients. and to attend to her customary vocation during the whole term of her pregnancy. 10 E. together with photographic reproductions and full information. Every woman should have this corset in her wardrobe. as well as during the maternity period. through a system of inside plaits of the material. as her own health and that of her child would be materially injured by such a course. 15 Which will b. and yet with its own particular advantages. to preserve a normal appearance and to attend to their every -day vocations. It is manufactured to be an absolute safeguard against all accidents for the mother as well as for the child. Prices from $5.
how serious your case you will find the ZOA-PHORA PILE the one safe. MICHIGAN. is arms where there but little Allowance must be made that enough goods left at the top of the skirt to extend the front and sides will as the figure demands in order that the skirt hang evenly all way around. necessary. and the dart seams either side from the shoulder faced back (Lesson S3). and an extenskirt making. falls is eyelets (Lesson 25) on both sides of all three openings. Ohio full line of druggists who handle the Zoa-Phora Remedies Page 81 . Make lacing. REMEDY— known See page 96 for ZOA-PHORA REMEDIES COMPANY. - Zoa-Phora Ten minutes of this Pile Remedy PILE ZOA-PHORA KALAMAZOO.— MATERNITY GOWN. except the lining is finished altogether differently. and lace down with linen or elastic The band from which rather loosely fitted is the front of the skirt from exactly under the necessity to enlarge. druggist today ana procure a month's treatment before your No matter disease becomes more deep seated and chronic. A IT /*phOHA (Trade Mark.— MATERNITY SKIRT. but it is seamed and faced and finished the same as given in the regular lesson on It should have a good sized pleat at each seam. maternity skirt is cut after a special maternity skirt pattern.. The opening down is the front shoulder is hemmed back. 50 CENTS. Lesson 100. Sample sent FREE upon request. make this gown perfectly. reliable and satisfactory treatment. will forever convince you that to suffer with this disease is positively unGo to your Pull directions in each package. 3916. Proprietors.) QA~rt X REMEDY CO. The instructions found in Lesson 91.Lesson 99. Accept no substitute. Cleveland's best Toledo. easy stretching elastic band is used for the belt. See instructions (Lesson 76). tion at the top for lengthening front and sides. list of of time and 50 cents for a full month's treatment well-known meritorious effective Remedy. and a very pliable. and extending to the bottom of the waist lining. for making. PRICE. Instead of making starting in the usual way the lining has dart seams from the shoulder and the center of the neck. See cut of lining at top of Fig.
Special attention should be paid to your corsets. — Shoes. 19 — Sweater. by wearing a badly fitted corset. together with complete instructions for the making of them and if you are a wise girl you will begin with the first lesson of this book and master every point of plain and fancy needlework for it is one of the most refined acquirements possible for a gentlewoman to attain. opiates. for during the pliable age. 9 — Church dress. suits. 15 —Collars and ties. belts and acces- sories. THE SCHOOL GIRL'S WARDROBE. 6 7 — Petticoats. — Light warm woolen 2— Under vests. 1 vate prescription for women. — — Night gowns. 16 17 Read our Special Offer Page 96 of this Book. 10 — Party dress. Get your shoes of sensible style and thickness and large enough to be comfortable regardless of the season or fashion. build up the tissues^strengthen the nerves and put the entire constitution in harZoa-Phora is monious condition. 20— Cloak. 18— Corset waists. Pengelly's pri- 13— Millinery. 8— School dress. sickly girls and women. You will find on the following pages suggestions of appropriate styles for your gowns. — Combination corset 1 combination 3 covers and -WOMAN'S FRIEND FOR drawers. — Bath robes. Zoa-Phora is Dr.CHAPTER IV. — House gown. We would recommend the Berthe May "Hebe" Corset. 12— Hair ornaments. while you are growing you can seriously injure yourself and your health. To the girl after her who is away from home wardrobe we have made out a most useful in list or the one without a mother to look of necessary articles and you will find the list planning your wardrobe. especially~compounded to purify and the blood. as it will give you all the beautiful curves and angles without the discomfort and danger of the modern corset. nervous. enrich 4— Handkerchief s. 11 —White petticoats. for every girl entering womanhood. — Hosiery. Do not make the mistake of going without sufficient underwear and of a quality to give you sufficient warmth and have all of your lingerie plain and dainty. narcotics or other dangerous or harmful drugs. All of your garments should be simple and Page 82 . 4 5 Growing Girls For over 50 years Zoa-Phora has proven an invaluable remedy to meet the needs of weak. 21 — Furs. purely a vegetable compound no alcohol.
party and summer dresses. Follow instructions for making as found in LesGirl's dresses are The son style 91. Follow instructions for (Lesson 89). GIRL'S DRESSES.girlish. — GIRLS SCHOOL shirt waist DRESS. gorgeous effects suitable for the stage or at best for older women. Lesson 102. Skirt (Lesson 95). and without collar Lesson 101. whose youth and its natural qualities need no artificial adornment. OHIO West Side Branch Franklin and W. Remember immaculate. 32nd Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister Choral Classes Bible Classes Page 83 . made exactly on the same principle as a lady's dress. sensible. whose natural charms are beginning to wane.— ting GOWN if 3911. Collar (Lesson 63).— Make has exactly according to Lesson 91. dainty garments will win for you a thousand fold more admiration than magnificent. CLEVELAND. and if no lining X2— X6. Piano and Apply to the Junior and Industrial Mandolin Lessons Orchestra Practice Young Women's Christian ^Association Clubs Prospect Avenue and East 18th Membership Parties St. as nothing is more unattractive than rich elegant garments worn by a sweet faced girl. omit- hemming. the material if embroidery omit omit Xll. shown is one widely approved of and very popular for graduating. edge.
seams. The main goods such as point in planning children's garments in is to have them as plain and appropriate as possible. so we do not take up space in giving this instruction. Quickly cures Croup. every instance possible should be of wash etc. There is perhaps no department of WHOOPING COUGH DUNHAM'S SPECIFIC. Make 54). Hem Close (Lesson with dainty buttons and small button- holes (Lessons 29-30). so that It is can be kept perfectly hardly economical to make boys clothing after they leave the "Buster Brown" period. $1. Especially pre- sewing where an economical wife and mother can save to more advantage than in by doing the work herself the making of the children's clothes. At Druggists. and linens. bot. ones daintily dressed and Lickes Drug Co. M'f 'rs.CHILDREN'S CLOTHES. either 47). pared for Whooping Cough. repps. severe Coughs. Colds. Page 84 . 56). Physicians recommend it. Lesson 104.00. ginghams. piques. clean. collar 68). In the latter instance the guimpe or sleeves it and yoke should always be of wash goods. Cleveland.— CHILDREN'S DRESSES. percales. bot.. O.. but in the winter either underwear heavy enough to fully protect the child from the cold must be provided or woolen dresses of serge. Used in Cleveland Orphan Asylums 20 years. novelty goods or any warm material must be worn. all tucks in goods before cutting (Lesson Cut (Lesson Close 76). flannel. Prevents bronchial diseases. or French seams (Lesson Make Make Make ruffles and attach (Lesson (Lesson 48). sleeves and put in (Lesson 69). poplins. 5 oz. more labor and is care and expense than usually figured on. Shortens and lightens the disease. 50 cts. plain (Lesson 41). Every mother desires to see her little this requires 12 oz.
— CHILD'S COAT. S3). 47). band on drawers to (Lesson make buttonholes button on waist (Lesson 29). bottom of (Lesson Hem If . and make buttonholes or sew on loops of elastic cord. Lesson 106. except shoulders a of ruffles over the cape if desired may be made. seam hidden by the facing 4483 Page 85 . A child's coat is made the after the same general instead principles as gown. drawers (Lesson 48). the of the collar.— CHILDREN'S WAISTS AND DRAWERS.Lesson 105. is The cape joined at may be lined or unlined and the neck. Cut out (Lesson Join 76). Put 64). French seams (Lesson neck. Sew line a bias band around waist 30). is edging used overcast on neatly (Lesson 57). Face waist armholes. and sew on buttons (Lesson Fasten up back with washable buttons.
six night slips. Sew up straight seams (Lesson 41). tal- cum powder. Gather at knees. Make sleeves (Lesson 69). sensible garment for the little one to play in. so below we will give a list of absolutely nec- garments and articles together with an idea of about the number of each that the average expectant mother should have preessary Six dresses. three wrappers. six bands. CHAPTER VII. comb and safety pins. one veil. one cap. six bibs. (Lesson 64). for they are a comfortable.BELLE VERNON MILK the Best Milk Lesson provide her 109. — Every mother should with rompers. To it ^3800 is the prospective mother. infant's etc. she usually prefers doing much of the work articles The Page 86 . Put on collar (Lesson 68). child and saves the mother much care and thought concerning his clothes. six pair bootees. and a layout containing all necessary toilet articles. one diaper cover. three pinning blankets. three sacks. six pair hose. and how many of each article to make. one kimona. one coat. and if mother has the time to spare. brush. INFANTS WARDROBE. little necessary to a child's wardrobe are very simple and easy to make. usually a question as to just what they are to make. — ROMPERS. pared: three (white). three petticoats petticoats (flannel). three dozen diapers. especially one expecting for the first time. Make pocket (Lesson Make belt 73). Cut (see Lesson 76).
and should take regularly during the last month of confinement and for one or two months after birth. This treatment is a positive aid in maintaining a good condition of health during confinement. quick and easy delivery at birth. While Preparing for the Coming of the Little One. Sew on lace or fine embroidery edging (Lesson 57). Bibs should be of double thickness. Diapers should be made of good cotton diaper cloth. be more vitally important that the organs of maternity of the mother be in a perfect state of health and strength to undergo this trying ordeal? The expectant mother should begin to take ZOAas soon as pregnancy is known from time to time as needed according to directions. Hem bottom of skirt (Lesson 48). of Birdseye linen or Canton flannel.— MAKING THE INFANT'S OUTFIT. follow instructions for making child's PRINCESS SLIP. and neatly hem by hand. (see Lesson 106). Make buttonholes (Lesson 29). and a rapid recovery of natural health and strength afterward. Kimona (see Lesson 86). The coat. Make and put in sleeves (Lesson 69). Sew on buttons (Lesson 30). or if lace or embroidery edging is not used you may feather stitch around the edge of the collar and down the front on either side of the buttonholes and many prefer to feather stitch the hem (see Lesson 18). CAN anything than PHORA Read the Special Offer as Given on Page 97 Ex pectant mothers can not afford to be without Woman's Friend Page 87 . embroidered or neatly bound with pink or blue ribbon. The petticoat. the Mother's Health Should Be the First Consideration. the edges turned in and finished with an edging of lace or feather stitched. The little flannel jackets are made in one piece and the edges should be The night gown. A rubber diaper should be made for protection on occasions § when you are traveling or taking your child away from home. Make and attach collar (Lesson 68). Cut (Lesson 76). gown (Lesson 104). cut square. and made as daintily as possible. both flannel and the dainty white ones are made under same instructions as Lesson 105. Sew up seams (Lessons 41 and 47).Lesson 110. but it should not be worn at all times as the ordinary waterproof diapers are not porous enough to let the air properly to the child's body. Hem back the fronts (Lesson 48).— The dress is made the same as instructed (Lesson 104) child's dress except very much longer.
CLEANING. The cleaning of clothes and accessories of the dress is often a problem. You can do considerable for careful consideration mShT- ^!S>wb CLOTHES kept beautifully clean and in "crisp CUMMER'S Perfect (JAflVAS freshness" by every J^RESSING dainty housewife WITH CUMMER'S ffltCUMMEflPHODUCTSCO CltVEtAIO.«m. CUMMER'S SHOE DRESSINGS The Proper Dressing For EVERY Shoe Ask Your Shoeman Page 88 . must always be given to the nature of the spot and the material. for a process or chemical that removes the spot from one material will set the stain in or ruin another material. M i(.0»«> ENERGINE I 'SHOE OMOINATION DRESSING" GOOD AT ALL C STORES wuwmu moms cs i ei«n.
Grass Stains: Must be removed with alcohol. woolen. Down Town Store 532 Euclid Avenue your own cleaning at home by using Cummer's Energine. then wash in tepid soap suds and proceed as for blood stains. leathers. laces. that must be otherwise your article may be returned to you ruined. soak the stain in salts of lemon. Cocoa Stains. dry cleaned. and Delivery Service. Auto Call Call Us Up —Phones. If the spot is still moist cover with sugar. then pour boiling water through the of perfectly — — — spot until the stain has entirely disappeared. and rinse thoroughly in clear tepid water. then wash in tepid soap suds and proceed as lor removing blood stains. which will clean woolen goods. Nevertheless you will need a few suggestions for removing the spots and clothes and which you may desire to stains that are so apt to get on your try to remove yourself. General Offices and Laboratories \2\$ tO 1230 East 71st St. We give you in these pages the addresses of first class establishments. furs. If on thin goods pour out a little alcohol in a bowl and rub out the stain. felts. Soak in cold water. then rinse and wash carefully in tepid soap suds. or if the ink — — — — Page 89 . Fruit Stains: Follow directions as for removing coffee stains. Coffee Stains:— Do not soak or put into soap suds until boiling water has been poured through the cloth until the stain is removed. and good laundry soap. so the main point is to alcohol that removes the have your cloth well saturated with the alcohol. in which has been added a mixture of equal parts of "Elwako". if the goods can be boiled. Ink Spots: There are many ways of removing ink spots. or if on white goods. then wash in sweet milk and rinse in clear tepid water. Then follow directions as for removing blood stains. feathers and almost anything cleanable. Boil from 20 to 30 minutes. and then rinse in ammonia water. If the article is such that it can be boiled. and it should always be kept on hand to keep However. Brass Stains. where you can depend upon your work being properly done. dip It is the a cotton cloth into the alcohol. if the stain is on a washable article. and care should be taken to select a reliable place. "Universal Dry Cleansing" It isn't the best.THE UNIVERSAL DRY CLEANSING // it isn't CO. salt or flour until you have absorbed all the ink possible. Grease Spots on any fabric. or if on heavier goods. silk or cotton can most effectively be removed with Cummer's Energine full instructions for its use are found on the bottle. rubbing until the stain disappears. it should then be put in very hot water. Rub pure lard on stain and leave for a few hours. kid gloves. there are many garments your articles in good fresh condition. Blood Stains: Soak the stains in cold water over night. stain and not the rubbing. silks.
soak the stain in this solution for half an hour. Bruises. Insect Bites. Cold on the Lungs. Tea Stains: Vaseline — Follow directions for removing coffee stains. or rub out the spots in equal parts of turpentine and alcohol. Chafes and Croup. rinse in clear tepid water. and one ounce of chloride of lime. Perspiration until the stain is — Stains: Sponge with a weak solution of hydrochloric acid. — Mildew: Soak in buttermilk spread on grass in sun. Machine will wash. Rust Stains may be removed by soaking chloric acid a diluted solution of hydro- and rinsing in clear cold water. Rough Skin. — and Paint Spots: Rub with vaseline until paint is softened. times Common Skin all i D rice Zjc rer oox Off D D • ALL FIRST CLASS DRUGGISTS will supply you has dried wash out the ink stains in the milk and rinse as above directed. if the material not rub wet borax over the spot and rinse in clear cold water. Burns. Eruptions. Bell Phone 2192 / [J Cleaners for Particular People Edd y r ^*^/S-r T s**n f^k C-5 Cuy. then wash gently in tepid soap in — suds and rinse in clear tepid water. Catarrh and Colds in the Head. or turpentine and ammonia. then wash in gasoline or benzine. removed or the colors clear. Boils. or to a pint of water add one-fourth pound of sal soda. if Wash with cold water and a pure white soap.Zoa-Phora Balm No Family Supply is Complete Without Known Ointment---within easy reach at this Well Diseases. all Children's Sore Throat. Blisters. For Chapped or Cracked Hands. and then rinse in clear cold water. Phone Crest234 - W ump ^^ Z/^» ^§S3S3Rgg0r Page 90 Prompt Service We Call For and Deliver 13256 Euclid Avenue and 13430 Euclid Avenue . Or you may soak the stain in salts of lemon. Piles. Spots: — Rub out in kerosene and wash in tepid soap suds and rinse in clear tepid water. Scorch Marks can be effectively removed only by sunshine. Scalds. than to attempt to do the work yourself. or oxalic acid until the ink has been removed. then wash in benzine or gasoline. but as this is a very dangerous drug to work with it is usually better to send your garment to a cleaner. Iodine Stains can best be removed with chloroform. Oil: for 24 hours.
Old and worn curtains. but keep them moving by stirring occasionally with a wooden stick. ALL WORK GUARANTEED Fannie Hamlet. it becomes discolored. 2336 E. if cotton or silk. They are easy and simple to use. thus saving It is advisable. so that it may be taken out from time to time. so that in case the desired shade is not obtained. to see if the desired shade is obtained. two or three 91 . the goods may be put back in the same dye bath. This can be accomplished by boiling the goods. as it is The color of the impossible to dye a dark colored fabric a lighter color. it is always best to discharge or remove as much of the old color as possible. appear as good as new and that at but a few cents of expense. where without dyeing they would be useless. before putting in the article to be dyed. the result will be a green. Dyeing Fine Lingerie and Lace Curtains Specialties and Feather Work 2420 Cedar Ave. Phone. The best plan is to try a small piece of goods fabric first. Princt 2906-L . do not throw away the solution until goods are dry. Page if necessary. Unlike the old-time easier to handle than the old-fashioned dry powder whether it be of animal or dyes. you can use the same dye for any vegetable nature. instances a few precautions in dyeing you must always follow. Many old or shabby garments can be dyed and renovated and made over and months of service gotten from them. and are much cleaner and dyes. same shade. and dyed a deeper shade. they should all be otherwise a variety of shades would be the In discharging or removing old colors from material that has been previously dyed. Prop. 7420-R Doan 337-L Res. changing the water when times. and do not stain the hands.North 776 Cent. in fact making them in many cases. Do not expect to dye a dark piece of goods a light shade. When several pieces are to be dyed put in the dye bath at the same time. Ohio DYEING. table covers and various other articles may be dyed and brightened up. 90th Street Cleveland. for instance. In taking goods from the dye bath. like many other dyes. Peacock Dyes are put up in collapsible tubes. to put a small time and additional expense. without removing the article itself. and see the result. If. Boil from one-half to three-quarters of an hour in a bath containing soap. There are in all which you are about to dye has nearly as much effect on the result as the dye you use. rugs. fabric. you have a yellow dress and use a blue dye. when dyeing. Snow Flake Hand Laundry The Cedar Cleaning Works Cleaning. When dying. the probable result. piece of material in with the larger pieces. do not crowd the goods. so that it takes day to wear off.
Chipped Straw. Feathers. Wools. Apple Green . making them much easier and cleaner to handle than the old fashioned powder dyes. etc. old color come discharging when will not PEACOCK DYES For Home Dyeing THE ONE DYE FOR ALL FABRICS For dyeing Cotton.. owing to article is put into the bath of some of new color. may be dyed. Raffia. FULL DIRECTIONS ON EACH TUBE. Linens. worn and shabby Clothes. as of old color is it tends to The removal very important in dyeing articles out the that have been previously dyed. making them appear as good as new. By the use of Peacock Dyes in the household a great many old.When removing soften the wool. etc. color from wool. as the newly dyed material the bright and uniform. Rugs. Peacock Dyes are put up in collapsible tubes. no soap should be used. Mixed Goods. Silks. Curtains. Tablecovers. Basketry.
It is invaluable ELWAKO ELWAKO IN It is YOUR LAUNDRY WORK sold by most Grocers. or those ot a dainty. Bedding. and will not injure any fabric. which does wonderful work. If you are not now using it. S. get a If he does not keep it.LAUNDERING. and restores all the original brilliancy of color without injury. It is a scientific Washing Compound to be used in connection with any good Laundry Soap in accordance with directions printed on each package. that articles washed with last twice as long as when rubbed.. with full directions for using. a package of regular size. is not a Soap nor a Soap Powder. postpaid. One 25 cent can will clean any common sized rug or carpet without rinsing or removing from the floor. 1120 Prospect Ave. Ask your grocer for it also. send us Ten package from your Grocer.. yet there are always numberless small things. In this present day of good laundries the hardest and most laborious part of the work can be sent away. Cleveland. delicate texture or color. We also manufacture CARPET CLEANER. and that it makes white clothes WHITE. Curtains or personal apparel. whether they be Table Linen. E. Cents in stamps and we will mail you. sufficient for four family washings. 0. It contains no Lye or Acid. You must be most careful in this SETTLES THE WASH-DAY QUESTION NO LYE NO ACID WILL MAKE YOUR CLOTHES CLEAN*WHITE WITHOUT RUBBING SOLD BY GROCERS YOU SHOULD USE ELWAKO Because thousands of other women have in your weekly washing. ELWAKO Elwako Manufacturing Co. or perhaps some pieces which one prizes very highly and one desires to have done at home. Page 93 . not gray or yellow. learned by practical experience that it saves the hard labor of rubbing and dispenses with the washboard.
the boiler with the clothes. that you get on bargain counters. one which will First. We suggest the use of "Elwako. acid or substance of any' kind which will injure the most delicate fabric. — Put fill one-half of this mixture into a washboiler containing very hot water and Fourth.— -Starch and hang on so the articles will not Sixth. bluing and good starch and if possible have your clothes hanged out of doors. Seventh. — Sort over your clothes. — Shave in soap together one small cake of Elwako and one bar of any good laundry three pints of water and boil and stir until they are thoroughly Third.work. for you can wear your articles out more by rubbing them over a rough washboard than you would wear them out in a week of almost constant service. . North 975 Central 3280-W Prospect Avenue and East 14th Street A Particular Laundry for Particular People Cleveland Ohio Page 94 . water and roll —When —Iron dry. time and wear on your clothing. You should first see that remove the dirt and stains and germs without the unnecessary labor of rubbing. for a badly laundered article is worthless to a particular or refined woman. line. and it will make your clothes clean and whte with a Further. wrung out of the cold water.'' as it positively contains no lye. least being sure that the corners are well fastened. being sure that nothing with if a color in it is put with the all-white clothes. in perfect with great care. as they will turn your clothes yellow and fade and cause the colors to run. sprinkle with tepid is tightly and leave for at one hour. you have a good laundry soap many of the cheaper soaps. where they can get the full benefit of the air and sun. and soak white pieces in cold water over night. taking precautions to always keep the garment it form or you may render unsightly by ironing out of shape. are worse than worthless. Then always use a good laundry aid. Fifth. blended. be careful to get good saving of labor. but over night better. blow about and tear or become stretched out of shape. sort the and wash the finer first. Second. and coarser from the finer you have a large number of pieces. —Boil two tubs of tepid from 20 to 30 minutes and wrinse thoroughly through one or water and then through bluing water.
Pengelly. Zoa-Phora contains no alcohol positively not one drop is used. Wife. write us. a satisfactory. Page 95 . Zoa-Phora is one of the oldest reliable preparations on It has. Does not this prove that Zoa-Phora is beyond question all that it is claimed to be? Write today and we will send you a copy of its formula. therefore. asked hundreds of times daily honest Before using a treatment a sensible woman wants to know what she is using she is perfectly justified in demanding an honest and straightforward answer. relieved and cured the very worst forms of Female Trouble and ailments peculiar to women. In addition to the splendid tonic effects of Zoa-Phora many women need a good local treatment and in order to encourage the use of our Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones in all cases when needed we are making the following offer of a full Ten Days' Treatment of our Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones (further information on page 79 of this book). 8. give Zoa-Phora a chance to do its good work. narcotics. Mother. 6. Our remedies are used by the thinking class of women throughout the United States and we are giving you a few reasons why you are safe in choosing Zoa-Phora in preference to all other remedies and why you are guaranteed satisfaction. but Zoa-Phora is 2. Zoa-Phora is Nature's own restorative and cure. Zoa-Phora begins at the seat of your trouble and builds up every part of your body. one of the greatest Specialists of his age in the treatment of the diseases of women. composition. The following indisputable evidence will convince the most skeptical of the merits and value of Zoa-Phora. Maiden.— WHAT Is IS ZOA-PHORA? is Zoa-Phora" THIS question "What women seeking asked by intelligent reply. We to cure. are not afraid to publish to every woman and to every physician and to the whole world. Zoa-Phora does not contain minerals. harmful drugs. Zoa-Phora is a vegetable compound. No expense is spared in modern medical science are used in its its Zoa-Phora is not a secret formula. just what Zoa-Phora is compounded of. rational. It is indeed (Woman's Friend). When you know what Zoa-Phora really is you will be convinced if you are suffering with any form of disease peculiar to women. No opiates or narcotics to suddenly deaden your pain and in time ruin your nervous system. Zoa-Phora 3. Zoa-Phora contains only the best and purest Positively the best ingredients preparation. and you will then know to your own satisfaction and benefit just what Zoa-Phora really is. and given entire satisfaction. that you have found a treatment perfected to the limit of modern medical discovery. No alcohol in it to Zoa-Phora is excite the nervous system and make you feel fine for a few hours and then leave you weak and exhausted. — of diseases of the market for the treatment 50 years. does not make drunkards or a craving for stimulants. for nearly women. Present this coupon to your nearest druggist. — on the market. 1. 4. plain. If you want to be cured. opiates. It does not make "drug fiends." as do some of the cheap. It is manufactured only of the best and most valuable roots and herbs known to science. or any dangerous or 5. and Grandmother find it the best woman's especially the sexual organism. If compounded your druggist has no free box for you have him With the purchase of one Dollar-size bottle of Zoa-Phora the bearer is entitled to a full ten days' special treatment of the Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Cones which the Zoa-Phora Company are supplying the drug trade free of charge for this purpose. patent medicine— not some dope handed down by an the prescription of Dr. tonic to carry them safely through the various changes of womanhood. inferior preparations Zoa-Phora is not an ordinary ignorant layman. known to of drugs. 7.
best triple plated. 11600 Detroit Avenue Alford Crocker. 16924 Detroit Avenue Dole. 18503 Detroit Avenue Go today to your nearest druggist and procure the remedies you need and send the faces from the packages direct to These beautiful teaspoons axe of the favorite Narcissus pattern.25 .50 - - . and will wear a life time. The Zoa-Phora Remedies 1803 Co. FULLY WARwill be sent you by return mail.50 . Marshall Drug Stores The May Co.25 . 4706 Detroit Avenue Wilson Drug Co. You can procure Zoa-Phora from every including the first class druggist in Cleveland. Standard Drug Stores Purity Drug Co.. fully warranted. full line And in Lakewood and Detroit Avenue the of Zoa-Phora supplies can be procured from Lindsley Drug Co.25 - Not One Cent to Pay for the Teaspoons Now or Later Send us the three wrappers or cartons as indicated above.. etc..DEC 19 1912 One Set of Silver Teaspoons Free To Users of Zoa-Phora Send us the front of the carton or box from any one of the packages in each of three divisions below arranged and the full set of RANTED TEASPOONS \L SIX TRIPLE PLATED.25 Digestive Tablets Stomach and Liver Pills Anti-Constipation Pills - . Adams Street Page 96 TOLEDO. 15621 Detroit Avenue Ludwig Pharmacy.50 . OHIO .50 Remedy - Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones Number Balm ----3 - . which means one Zoa-Phora (Woman's Friend) wrapper and your choice of any one of the remedies in Number Two and one from Number Three. 1 - Number Number Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Pile Zoa-Phora (Woman's Friend) 2 - $1.00 Cold Remedy La Grippe Remedy .
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 080 524 5 .
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 080 524 5 .