7dS (Li








Coates Sewing and

Dress Making Manual



3 3





5 3






L. T.


^it=^t^ r==ai r====it==^tag=nf==^



f=n n=ii„ n

»==i [==v==ir^

<gCI.A31i88l7 .

proof.. D— "GREANET" InvisibleV&isi Foundaiion ] E— Perfect rust F— Very SilkCovered armhole. 50 cents to $1. sealed to insure cleanliness.. white or black. has hooks and eyes.^ DRESSMAKING SPECIALTIES Without Shoulder Form Long ci loulder Ready] cms Made Pitied "Waist Lining EAL. and the Professional Dressmaker. 15 cents a pair. of thoroughly shrunken linen canvas reinforced with hair-cloth and felt. Use one or all and fit Coat Fronls \ Save Time. $3. white your waist. Grean Shoulder Form and Pad 327-329 East 34th Street. ready for draping. chiffon. back. very helpful in altering or reinforcing fronts. write us. Work and Worry almost finished lining for tight-fitting waists. or nlack percaline. direct or through a reliable a catalogue oj other dressmaking helps. PRACTICAL HELPS FOR THE HOME or Made / . guaranteed collar supports. 75c.50 to $4. 35 and 50 cents. Order by exact size of Linolawn.open front or hack. Write Dept. SI. greatly improve appearance garment. nor after hours of tiring effort obtain the perfect they insure. fills in usual hollows around overlapping padded points for shoulders. 5 for 15 cents. Black or white. A loose-fitting net lining for light. 75 cents. pliable. You cannot make anyone of these essentials for anywhere near the price. Money. A— Perfected. clever pad. seamless belt. cotton. not bust measurement. 3 for 10 cents. 15 cents a pair. boned. (new). B— Produce of any shoulder effect desired. Bray. or lace waists on high. shaped. if Money you are not satisfied. Designed for the trade and now sold in leading Dry Goods Stores everywhere. (1) front for long coat. Carefully manufactured of best materials for correct tailoring of garments in prevailing styles. silk Corsica.00. C— Tailor made. silk *l DO. in transparent envelopes. invisible. New York Page 1 . lias hooks and eyes. for short coats.00 (CSS) Eton front. has Collar Support at If you cannotobtain GREAN SPECIALTIES We supply you dealer and send you will your dealer's. "G" Co. HEAVILY COVERED WITH PURE SILK FLOSS. boned with hasted seams ahove. washable. on new principle. 00.

22 22 23 24 24 24 24 24 24 24 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 51. Lesson 1 . Stays and Collar — Putting Supports — Marking of Linen and Underwear — Embroidery Designs in in ...— Piping 40.— Solid Embroidery 21. 27 28 28 28 29 Copyright 1912 by Lydia Trattles Coates Page 2 . — Knot —Running Stitch — Basting — Backstitch — Overcasting Stitch 6 6 7 7 7 33. (£.—Ruffles 26. 26. ".— Felled Seam — Bound Seam — Strap Seam 45. Chevrons.— Milliner's Fold 39. 3. 50.—TO HOLD THE GOODS 3.— Double Folds 38. Cleveland. 59. Page 5 6 30. .— Fagot Stitch 13.— Outline Stitch 8.— Button Hole Stitch 25. 8 8 9 10 10 10 11 11 11 43. 27.— French Knots 14.— Blanket Stitch 24. 44.- 12 13 13 13 — Cording — Seams 42.— Seed Stitch 1 5.— Feather Stitch 19. 41.- — Sewing on Buttons — Loops — Darning — Stoting — Patching — Overhand Patch" — Bands and Folds . 35. 4.'.—Satin Stitch (French broidery) 8 37. 49. 36. 31. 5. 60.— Shirring 56.. 48.IttHtntfittfltt —loral Beginners' Voices Carefully Built and Trained lira. Emblems and Monograms — Eyelets — —To and Eyelet Embroidery 14 16 16 16 16 17 17 18 54.— Slant 6. 14. 47. .— Hem Stitch 17.— PLAIN AND FANCY STITCHES.— Damask Stitch 16.'. 57. 2. 34. -WORKING INSTRUCTIONS.— Cable Stitch 10. Sewing on Lace or Embroid58. — Facings — Gathering Hem 26 26 26 26 27 27 22.— INTRODUCTION 2.— Rolled 53. 23.— Chain Stitch 9. 32.— Tucks and Pleats 55. EmIS. GUjrato Nutnttan IpII Eaat 541 13TB East mtlf fctrwt COATES SEWING AND DRESS MAKING MANUAL Published by Coates Advertising Agency.'. and Overhanding 7 7.— Long and Short Stitch 20.— Welt Seam — Lapped Seam — French Seam — Hemming —To Hem Corners — Damask Hem 46. . 4. Page 21 21 21 .— Braiding 28. Ohio CONTENTS 1.— Cross Stitch 18. ..- 61.'.— Couch Stitch 1 1.. 62. Make Buttonholes 20 — ery Embroidery — Setting on Lace or and Eyes — Sewing Hooks 27.— Catch Stitch 12.. 52.— Embroidery Scallops.— Punch Work 16. Lesson 29.

— Maternity Corsets —Maternity Gowns — Maternity Skirts GIRLS' SUPPLIES.— Shirt Waists 91. 66. 77. 86. 82..— Children's Underwear Outfit. 65. (D)— Millinery (E) — Lingerie 76. (B) — Scientific Beauty Culture 5811. Cleveland and Graduate of School of Expression.— Shirt Waist Sleeves 71.— COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS SPECIFIC WORK Lesson — Plackets —Belts and Bands —Yoke and Peplums (K) (L) 63. 110. 93. SHRINKING ING. 16.— MILADY'S WORDROBE (A) — Corsets (B)— Sanitary Belts (C) — Sanitary Skirt Protectors. —Boning 38 40 41 — Shirt Waist Supporter — Rain Coat and Waterproof Garments Lesson — Corset Covers — Drawers " — Chemise " 81.Inatruflton Expression Literature Interpretation Pantomime Harmonic Training Art of Play Writing and Criticism iFlomtrp Hartlja itaaett (Swr^r) Graduate of Harroff School of Expression. —The Young Lady's Dresses — Maternity Outfit Wardrobe 9.- —Jackets 76 76 78 79 80 81 81 PRESS50 50 51- — Sponging -Pressing 98.— Pockets Traveling Skirts and Busi- 46 47 47 96.— SCHOOL Lesson " " 14 101.. 57 58 60 61 61 62 63 64 64 —Rompers Coats 15. — Children's 105.. FOR 42 42 43 44 45 45 43- Kimonas 87.5410..—THE WELL GROOMED WOMAN. President Bell Doan 1369-R 9608 Hough Avenue CONTENTS 5. — Lesson — Fitting and Alterations.— Tailored Collars 68.— Petticoats — Skirts and Underwear Without Plackets — Dressing Sacques (F) (G) " 78.— Making of Gowns 92. 75. .— Coat Sleeve 73. Curry.— CUTTING. Cutting 53 —CHILDREN'S CLOTHES.— Dress 12. Lesson 97. 99. Lesson Lesson 74.— SPONGING.— Girl's -Gowns 104. 80.— DYEING 18. — Street.— NECESSARY (A) MAKING ACCESSORIES (B)—Threads (C)— Sewing Thread (D) (E) SEWING AND Page DRESS30 30 30 31 313431 33 — Sewing Machine (F)— Linings (G)— Patterns — Embroidery Thread Hooks and Eyes (H)— Tape (I)— Dress (J) 35 35 Shields 39- 36 37 —Dress Form —Dress Trimmings 6. 94.—Turn Down Collars 69. — AND 48 48 49 MATERNITY OUTFIT.— Aprons — — Lingerie Waists — Housekeeping Gowns — Evening and Dinner Gowns.— Girl's School Dress 103. 64. 82 83 83 84 85 85 . 83.— Sleeves 70.— INFANT'S OUTFIT Lesson — Making the Infant's " 107. Cuffs and Lap Closings 72. 72 74 75 75 7. 8.— LAUNDERING 3 88 91 93 86 86 87 93 92 94 Page . 85. ness 72- 90.. Costumes and Coats 77- 95. Lesson " " 102. and Shrinking 13. Boston Dr. — Children's 136.— Night Gowns — Combination Undergarments..— High Collars 67.— CLEANING 17. 89. Page 64 65 66 66 67 67 67 68 68 68 69 70 71 71 84. 88. 79. 100. (A) — The Well Groomed Woman. — Making of Dinner Gowns.— FITTING AND ALTERATIONS.

OXYDONOR "This wonderful little appliance. Thus writes Are you suffering from Rheumatism. etc. Mrs. (Sanitary Protectors) American Textile Mfg. No. (Dunham's Specific) Long. Co. Abbie E. E. Co. Mfg. (Book and Art Exchange).. Joseph. (Sewing Silk) Belding Bros. Restaurant Co. 31. performs which border on miracles. & C. Phone. cures. T. Raynolds Co. Chester (Vocal Instruction).. 95. health. L. Stroud. Pictoral Pictorial J.. Van Gorder (Havanco Mending Tissue) Haserot Co. Association 7. 29 21 34 23 12 17 7 Arbor Tea Shop Art Pleating Shoppe Baird Bros. ... Co. Spinal Trouble. (Sewing Machine Supplies) Studio (Art Work) Cedar Cleaning Works Chandler. Co. H. (Piano Instruction) 58 20 60 93 42 73 3 ' Co G. Miss L.. (Real Estate) Conover. & Co. C.. (Ice Cream) Universal Dry Cleansing Co Victor Insect Exterminating Co 43 75 & Florence Martha (Expression) Frederick Piano Co Fries & Schuele Fulton.. & C. you will be restored to health. The May. ' . (Funeral Director). Wright. Co. Mrs. Mandarin. & Co Lawson School of Music Lickes Drug Co. Rosenblum Clothing Co Sanar Remedy Co (Attorneys at Law) Shop of Kimonas and Art Laces Skalla. (Embroidery Silk) Belding Bros. Stomach Trouble.. Ohio Office Furniture Co 91 5 Oxydonar Parrish. The process is natural and very simple. E. (Energine Shoe Dressing) Devoe. A. Diabetes. C. if you want pREE— Books on Health.. Berthe (Corsets) 86 19 53 58 51 II May Co. (Woven Names) Reis Initial Co. B. Frank (Dentist) Electra Pure Water Co. (Elwako Laundry Aid) Euclid Cafetiere (Lunch Club) Farr. Sanche's Oxydonor's and by the use of it as directed. Young Women's Zoa Phora Co Christian 57. (Katharos) Ellsworth Public Hand Laundry Reis Initial Co. Main 730 Ohio Agency. N. & (Shino) (Dress Form) Co. (Sanitary Belt). 337 Old Arcade INDEX TO ADVERTISERS Page Adair. (Dentist) Bryson Co. (Embroidery Initials) 74 50 39 65 94 14 29 28 18 19 71 Richardson Silk Facial College Elwako Mfg. (Domestic Cleaner) Swalley's Credit Store Telling Co.. & & Sons Co. (Osteopathic Physician) Morehouse Co Noteman. 68 9 72 41 46 54 37 11 Review Co. W. (Dust Bright) 59 63 10 Page Hawley Restaurant Henke Furniture Co Hexter's Lining Store Ideal Faucet Syringe Co Interstate Drug Co. Wm. Oxydonor will do it. Mrs. E. Priestley. (Embroidery Scallops) Reis Initial Co. invented by Dr. H. Pneumatic Form Co. 76.. & P. 64 38 66 32 36 62 83 96 Page 4 . Co. F. by all means secure one of Dr. even if all else has failed. Dr. (Senora Coffee) 24 22 24 Wm. Co. 13. or are any of your family suffering from disease? If so.. F.. Pioneer Mfg. 69 63 16 76 91 15 8. (Naiad Dress Shield) Continental Casualty Co Creme de Luxe Cummer Products Co. Grean Shoulder Form and Pad Grean Dress Making Specialties Grean Long Coat Front Foundation Grean Short Coat Front Foundation Grean's "Greanet" Grean Fitted Waist Lining Grean Coat Collars Fassett. Margaret B. Miller. Mrs. Maud De Long (Dermatologist) Smith Carriage & Auto Co Smith Chemical Co. 6 44 60 47 1 Vacuum 20 55 89 13 77 78 54 35 45 48 55 Grean Arm Pad Grean Fitted Belt Griffith Warner Hat Shoppe Warren Featherbone Co White Sewing Machine Co Wilson Dress Hook Co Wright. (Manicuring and Chiropody). Ellen C. (Sleeve Initials) Reis Initial Co. Review Co. infallible as the daily rising Investigate. The C. (Ganesh Toilet Preparation) A. Cleveland Credit Clothing Co Cleveland Dress Trimming Co College of Science (Acme) Connelly Co. * Call or Send 10 Cents for Postage.. ("Hair Vim") Snow Flake Laundry Shaver. but as and setting of the sun.. 4 P. (Cravenette) 60 88 9 Dye) Dowd." Edward Rigby of Lisbon. Co. 30. Ohio. David (Shirtwaist Belts) Battle Creek Sanitarium Food Co Belding Bros. (Peacock Carlton Monks. E. 55. G. Co. Sanche for the purpose of healing the sick. R. Nervousness. (Morlene) Korach. (Linings) Belle Vernon Dairy Co Berner's Art Store Boston Dry Goods Co B. (Fashion Book) B. (Tape) Sons Co. (Wrinkle Eradicators) 64 26 61 64 5 84 64 52 80 40 56 56 33 2 5 31 8 34 25. (Embroidery Catalog). T. (Public Stenographer). M.... (Monarch Polish) Basch. Hall.

non-individual clothes simply because they do not know exactly how to cut and fit and make and finish the articles of their apparel and without complete instructions before them do not feel like risking the time and the material in experimenting. and hiding any possible defects of her contour or carriage will work as an artist. 1145 Prospect Ave. simple and comprehensible set of Sewing and Dress Making Lessons have been compiled without waste of words or unnecessary repetitions. On the other hand if they know just how to go ahead and have each step made plain for them to follow they could add many beautiful garments to To be sure much that is very helpful their wardrobe at a very small cost. 111-112 Old Arcade . Cleveland. S. but many women do not preserve these periodicals or have not the time to wade through all the other literature and sometimes a labyrinth of instructions to find out the system of properly cutting out and putting together and finishing a dress or suit or piece of underwear or perhaps doing up a piece of household sewing.. using herself as the model and her materials. CO. laboritheir — ous piece of drudgery. Quigley Desks Chairs Armor-Clad Steel Furniture Cuspidors and other Office Furniture Murphy & Gunlocke Miss L. THE OHIO OFFICE Chandler Central 332 1-K Main 1368 FURNITURE Bell.Public Stenographer Duplicating Filing Devices Tables. etc. without as complete a wardrobe as they would like to have or pay out more money than they feel that they should spare to get . For this reason this plain. Sewing is an art and the woman who clothes herself with an eye to bringing out the possibilities of her grace and beauty and best points of individuality. We have made the system as brief and as easy as possible and by following faithfully the instructions and always turning to the lessons designated you will find that you have a reliable guide to the making of every essential garment for your wardrobe.. E. Many women go garments made or are forced to wear unbecoming.. as the means of presenting to the world her ideal of thought. Ohio 429 The Arcade North 1450 I. LAXATIVE BRAN BISCUITS "The samples you gave do the work ine were delicious" BATTLE CREEK SANITARIUM FOOD Page 5 CO. INTRODUCTION. Thus dressmaking will become an Art and a Science and a pleasure instead of a nerveracking. has been written on the subject of sewing and many of our best magazines have given us invaluable information. L. trimmings.

(1) (2) Slant Stitch.. W. . 3. 1612 EUCLID AVENUE Page 6 . Basting Stitch.—Thread AND ORNAMENTAL STITCHES. crumble it nor yet so loosely that the stitches are taken unevenly. needle with proper sized thread and hold in Wind thread once over forefinger of right hand and pull tightly. be in constant use for seams on light etc. CHAPTER PLAIN. IV. FREDERICK PIANO CO. F. French seams.— RUNNING STITCH. leaving the right hand Never hold the work so as to crush and free with which to do the stitches. Running 2.oOOCNO''. Lesson 5. and do not form the bad habit of pinning the work to your skirts and then humping over to do it or winding seams over the forefinger of your left hand. Knots should never be visible in any sewing except in basting. Always hold the goods in a position so the stitches are taken toward you.CHAPTER III. hold the work firmly in the left hand. .— stitches through the cloth should It will be of exact and equal length. by backstitching (Lesson 4). Try Our Superior Service Today. left hand. TO HOLD THE GOODS. Lesson Stitch. hemming of fragile garments. but learn and practice holding and doing your work properly and sitting erect. . gathering. Always take stitch under the hem or seam to hide knot but in open space where this is not possible fasten thread by taking two or three stitches over each other or — KNOT. (3) (4) Lesson Hemstitch. The Lesson 2. FANCY Lesson 1. materials.->. The Proof of the Pudding is in the Eating The Proof of "Frederick Service" In the Trying is Every Record Every Victrola $15.$200 Sound Proof Demonstrating Parlors Experienced Salesmen.. -. Lesson 17. Sit up straight.

Ohio West Side Branch Franyin and West 32nd Home Nursing Home Making Chafing Dish St. Ohio All branches of Music and Dramatic Art taught in a thorough. Lay your cloth perfectly in place and then fasten by taking even or uneven running stitches through the material as in cut. using two or three stitches to hold (never knot under a fold). Lesson 4. Beginners or Advanced Pupils Private or Class Lessons Day or Evening Jim Best Instruction Moderate Prices Page 7 . (See cut 1. —BASTING. The half back stitch is taken half way back between the space of where the thread is drawn through and where the stitch leaves off on the upper side. Use Slant Stitch (see Lesson 5). This is one of the most particular lessons in sewing as every stitch must be exactly the same in height and distance apart.— Begin at the right and work toward the left. Begin next stitch exactly where last stitch left off on upper side of sewing (see cut 1).— Baste material with edges exactly even or if single trim smooth and even.Sewing Millinery Apply to the Cookery Dining Room Service Dietetics Dressmaking Tailoring Shirt Waist Young Women's Christian Association Prospect Avenue and East 18th Cleveland. Point the needle toward the left shoulder and pass it through a few folds of the material and a few threads of the fold.— SLANT STITCH. practical and artistic manner. Voice Culture of both the singing and speaking voice a specialty. varying the distance between stitches according to the quality and thickness The two important features of perfect overcasting or overof the material.— OVERCASTING AND OVERHANDING. then take a short back stitch back on the upper side and a long stitch forward on the under side.—The Lesson 5. progressive. page 6). Insert the needle under the fold.— BACKSTITCH. CIk Cawson School of music and Other Tine 10507 Superior Avenue Cleveland. Making Trade Class Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister Cooking fundamental principle of all good fitting and adjusting lies in the proper basting. Lesson 6.—Take a few running stitches (see Lesson 2). Hold your goods with the edges which you are sewing on toward you. Lesson 3. handing are to have needle point at exact depth and be exact distance between each stitch. From under side draw needle through cloth exact depth to be overcasted or overhanded and take stitch over and through twice to hold firmly.

— Take even stitches. of the previous stitch. Belding's teed fast dve. 528 Broadway STITCH.Have You Tried T^T lriLLlllVJO ICECREAM? Lesson 7. instead of at Page 8 .American STITCH.— Start have left New York at City Lesson 8. take a short stitch through the material. New Process Embroidery Silk and every conceivable shade.— OUTLINE T TTVT/^O French . Lesson 9.— CHAIN the top of your design and always your needle to point a towards needle through material. in eight different twists.— The the cable as the chain stitch needle is made almost exactly Lesson 8). & CO. hold down Draw you." write tell you where it can be obtained. If and we will BELDING BROS. guaranus. bringing needle through one stitch distance ahead and proceed as before. holding your work with the needle pointing toward you and always keeping the thread on the same needle.— CABLE STITCH. ing stitch and draw rather yet not enough to wrinkle the goods. your dealer does not carry "Belding's. thread under thumb form loop. except that drawn through at the side. half stitch is (see way back the center. side of the Take each stitch back two threads on the precedtightly.

—COUCH of STITCH. Underin not forgetting the exquisite designs for wear. —'Couching thread at is made by apart laying straight lines equal distances across the design. BELTS. 15 cents THE PICTORIAL REVIEW COMPANY THE PICTORIAL REVIEW BUILDING 222 West 39th Street. Satin. and Infants' and Children's Wear. profusely illustrated and contains designs for all the various kinds of embroideries. New The New of the Review Embroidery Catalog. many DOILIES.Lesson 10. N. Pictorial Fully explained and illustrated in linen. Send 20 cents for a sample of this work begun on special and one large needles. HAND BAGS. Page 9 . Y. Add 15 cents for The New Pictorial Review Embroidery Catalog. having the stitches in each row fall between those of the opposite row. The "New" Pictorial Review Embroidery Catalog is filled with ideas and suggestions of interest to any It is woman who em- broiders or does fancy work. Are all illustrated. by mail. New York. Seed. Etc. Solid and Outline Including numerous designs for the popular Braid Work and the Punched Embroidery. SHIRT WAISTS. COSTUMES. Hold the threads in place with your left hand and fasten them to the material with small stitches on the right side. or The May Co. either the These may be obtained Transfer or Perforated Patterns Purchase a copy today at any newsdealer. SUITS. SKIRT PANELS. Price 10 cents. such as Eyelet.

.-::. .

Mgr.Breadwinner Then when the unforseen. We insure both Men and Women. pictures in Book ana Art exchange 31 Taylor Arcade Monogram Work. laid draw through in the number of threads have been opposite direction at even distances apart another set of threads. W. unexpected piece of bad luck comes. Cleveland. wrong side and bring the through pattern to carrying When the be worked. group from three toward you. LONG teach or paint to order. Dainty Cards.Watt.— DAMASK needle across STITCH. for exact position of needle). THE ELLEN and C. needle under and through the hem. stitches The rows must be evenly spaced and the each row falling midway between those of the rows at either side of them. Lesson Protect -Yourself .— Draw the required number of threads Hold the hem and turn hem and baste exactly below last thread drawn. (See Lesson 11.— Fasten up the thread on right side.—The back seed stitch is made by taking small stitches covering the leaf or petals of a design or in monogram. Come in 2357 -W. O. also teach work. Paints for china 10c and 15c each. your cash income does not stop just when you most need it. Schofield Bldg. At the place where the threads cross catch to thread desired down with the cross stitch.) 16. Congratulations for Birth Carlton Studio 1430 Announcements and other special occasions. High Grade Stationery. Wedding. and draw the needle through to the right of the group and take a short stitch in the fold (See cut No. insert the to as many threads as are desired (always the same number).— HEMSTITCHING. Anniversary. pastel or crayon. 358 The Arcade SICKNESS OR AN ACCIDENT MAY COME TOMORROW ACT TODAY — Page 11 .E. CONTINENTAL CASUALTY CO. water-color. page 6.and . of the hem.Art We do stencil Work oil. FRAMING A SPECIALTY. china decorating and firing. Birthday. 1. Lesson 15. Be positively and safely provided for by the largest Health and Accident Insurance Company in the world.. Lesson 14. and ask us to tell you today and let us explain or call up CENTRAL WHAT FIVE CENTS PER DAY WILL DO FOR YOU.— SEED STITCH.the .

Ohio Page . to say the least. therefore we want every person afflicted with Goitre and similar troubles to know that there is a remedy which is really a success in If 92% of all cases. Inflammations The above statement has been so thoroughly proven that we are almost tempted to say Morlene However. Enlarged Joints. Your druggist can supply you MANUFACTURED ONLY BY The Interstate Drug Company 12 Cleveland. Tumors. its effectiveness has been thoroughly proven.— CROSS is STITCH. the breathing or the blood flow to and from the brain.Lesson 17. are. you are not tell them afflicted but of Morlene. Double Chin. so it is always best to get rid of any enlargements about the throat whether they be Goitre. and it often produces dangerous condiaffecting the eyes. They should know about if he wants your trade. to avoid will cure any case of Goitre. Thick Neck or Goitre by Tumors and for the sake of a better appearance the Double Chin.— The cross stitch simply bringing one stitch across the angle of the other. have relatives or friends who it. no matter tions is unsightly and disagreeable. If he fails send us SI. Morlene is not an experiment. possible misrepresentation case Morlene relieves the able conditions accompanying Goitre and gives entire satisfaction to how bad or how long standing. GOITRE will disappear when treated with MORLENE Also Thick Neck. 50 and we will promptly deliver a full size package containing a sufficient quantity for an ordinary treatment of 30 days. we will say that in every dangerous and disagree92% of all cases.

Let us hear from you. with pencil or Lesson 18. (see Lesson except that one stitch in is taken. etc. It's just another instance of White superiority. mice.—LONG AND SHORT STITCH — stitch Follow exact instructions as slant 5). to say nothing of the loss of time in trying to get the machine to work right. O.— SOLID EMBROIDERY. Our experts Our methods are used & B. and you can imagine the annoyance it has caused the operator. Happily the White experts came to the rescue with this remarkable device THREAD CAST-OFF THE White Rotary Thread machine — SANITATION HEALTH HAPPINESS Our method is of fumigation and insect extermination absolutely the most up-to-date and efficient method in use. are at your service. Warehouses. Hotels. and two stitches to the left. etc.— the the only is equipped with a Cast-off.— Mark thread along the line chalk or run a colored to be followed. manufacturers of Rotary machines have had a world of trouble with the thread tangling in the shuttle race. long and short stitch in successive rows until the design entirely filled . insects. Penetrates through plastering. upholstered furniture. White Sewing Machine Co. rs^J Lesson 20. Talk about trouble why. is The double feather or briar stitch is made by taking two stitches to the right of one while the triple feather stitch right and three to the left. hold thread take a short stitch through and to the right side of down with the mark or thumb. ONLY No powder dust left — No poison— No bad odors. We rid Boats. Thread Cast-off (it's exclusively White) and the difficulty vanished as if DON'T NEGLECT YOUR HOME by magic.— FEATHER tailor's STITCH— BRIAR STITCH. left line. Knot bring thread. CLEVELAND. It is the method endorsed by the Government experts of all nations. It should be fumigated by our method once a year it will be clean and healthful. instead made by taking three stitches to the Lesson 19. and recommended by the State Medical authorities as being the only absolute remedy known to Science. —then Boats. (See cut). exclusively on the C. There's no time like the present to look the White over. thread stitch down directly on downward to left the of the mark or mark line and hold with thumb and take short or line and repeat taking stitch. first on the right then on the left. bring needle through to right side. Churches and Stores of all germs. 426 PROSPECT Both Phones Victor Insect 351 The Arcade Exterminating Co. one-half the dis- tance depth as the succeeding one. rats. bedding.— Is Page 13 made by using is the in.

ed des'gns the letters. Take stitch through material depth desired with needle pointing downward. we guarantee that they will retain their shape and appearance through all the washings.— (French Embroidery)— The or Initials.— Fasten thread by running and back stitches. You will use the Satin Stitch in making in the Chevrons. The cut shown in Lesson 25. If you can thread a needle you can successfully use them. desired tone of expressive charm— an indication of character— the "intangible something" of which a woman can well be proud.— EMBROIDERY SCALLOP STITCH. new Sold at the Art Counter of Any Department Store Reis Initials. LEARN AX OUR EXPENSE How easily the most inexperienced sewer can create perfectly stunning effects in embroidery with the new Reis Gumbac Foundations Scallops. and in satin stitch is the stitch taken straight across from one edge to the other of the design or taken on a slant from one edge to the opposite edge. page IS. sample strips of scallops and samples of the Reis Letters in your initial. Remarkable as it may seem. Our standing offer is as follows: "We Will Pay for Any Garment Injured Gumbac Foundations Through Washing or Re!s by Reis Ironing. a name of a dealer in your city stamp and the who would most you in re- likely handle our goods. We will send turn our In Sizes from % inch to 10 Inches. They are very simple." 1J 4 Gumbac Scallops come in six styles— 26 patterns. Draw needle through loop and repeat taking every stitch very closely together so no gap appears between the stitches. Hold thread under left thumb forming loop. Reis Gumbac Foundations are not made of ordinary paper or even papier mache. The material in their composition is of European origin. the scallops or embroidered edge vary according to the Often the depths of pattern or design to be worked and the outline must be very carefully followed. REIS' FOUNDATION Letters and Scallops They add that much help to make your wearing apparel and household linen distinctively rich. booklets. Underlaying and Basting difficulties eliminated. many other designs so much vogue at the present time. and work over with That's all. New York Page 14 .— SATIN STITCH. Reis' Letters and Scallops make embroidering simply delightful with the Stamping. and retail at a uniform price of 10c per card of to the small sizes and S of a yard to the large. of embroidery their attractiveness. especially silk will add to when working mono- Block Old English — easily accomplished 2-cent by interlacing Send us your name. silk or cotton. boilings and ironings that the article on which they are embroidered will withstand. shows the exact position of the needle.Lesson 21. Just moisten the back and stick on. 620 Broadway. yards REIS FOUNDATION LETTERS Are made Script in three styles: Harmonizing colors gramrr. Nor will they discolor or harm the finest fabric. Lesson22.

pleasant and easy way. Ohio . old. is The DOMESTIC last a lifetime. E. is only Vacuum Cleaner with Full Ball-Bearings and a BaliBearing Adjustable Roller under the suction the plate for light or The DOMESTIC heavy cleaning. The DOMESTIC Hand Cleaner is as powerful as the best portable electric. cabinet built and will the only hand cleaner The DOMESTIC is with attachments for cleaning Mattresses. When your foundation is completed then embroider according to embroidery scallop is is There and there an a stitch. tedious and laborious manner of embroidering scallops new. 15 STROUD CO. Then a running stitch must be very carefully taken at the exact line desired to indicate the depth. etc. Upholstery. With these attachments you have a cleaner with every advantage of an electric machine at a little greater cost than the best Bissell Carpet Sweeper. 510 The Arcade Page Cleveland. or Central 8258 K. & C. The old method is to buy a transfer pattern or hire the stamping done. Lesson 22. H. or come to our office. Then you must pad your scallops with the chain stitch using a good filling cotton. For free demonstration phone Main 2463. THE B. D OMESTIC VACUUM C LEANER Dirt and Dust are a Constant Menace to Your Home A of large percent of our contagious dis- eases are carried into the home by reason germ laden dust.THE OLD WAY TO EMBROIDER SCALLOPS.

bring in first the first it Page 16 . taking care to always have the stitches exactly the same distance apart and exactly the same height. TRIMMING. — Lesson 24. a small distance apart. Make stitches very even and rather tight and then shape perfectly with . Bring up the the work. By needle courtesy of Pictorial Review Co. F. The blanket stitch is the same as the buttonhole stitch only each stitch is made instead of very close together as the buttonhole stitch is done.— Begin by fastening thread by using running and back stitch. drawing needle through loop. begin work in the upper left-hand corner of the design. Hold thread under left thumb forming loop take stitch depth desired with needle pointing downward. See cut of Lesson 25. oval. which can be embroidered over without any of the preliminary work explained. procure the necessary length of Reis Foundation Gumbac Scallops.AUTOMOBILE PAINTING.— EYELETS EYELET EMBROIDERY. REMODELING AND REPAIRING. Smith.—The Buttonhole stitch and the Embroidery Scollop stitch are done exactly the same (see Lesson 22). All you need to do is to moisten the scallop. oblong or pointed.— PUNCHED used for WORK. L. Lesson 23. This eliminates all the drudgery of stamping your design and all the filling-in work and gives a much more desirable effect than you can possibly obtain by the ordinary methods. bringthe ing the point just outside the outline stitch. 1911 Cars Remodeled with Fore Doors and Repainted to Resemble 1912 Models Telephone--East S40 1970 EAST 66TH STREET. Pass down needle dot of the dot of the second row. Then send the needle down in the first dot of the second row and bring it up in the second dot of the first row.the stiletto. row. Lesson 25. and repeat. press down with your hand and work over with the stitch taught you in Lesson 22. then punch with a stiletto. except that in embroidery the point of the needle is toward the edge while in buttonholeing the point of the needle is toward the cloth.— Thread the long special and knot it at the eye.— BUTTONHOLE STITCH. Lesson 26. AND Set the needle for each stitch just outside the cotton outline stitch and draw the point through the stilettoed opening or set the needle through the opening. Either manner is correct. Run a cotton thread around the outlines with very small running stitches to hold the form.— BLANKET STITCH. NEAR CORNER OF EUCLID AVENUE Smith Carriage $ Auto Co. Then fastening your thread on the under side of the material.— Eyelets may be round. To save time and energy and to insure satisfactory results with your work. send it down in the first up again in the first dot of the first row and draw the thread slightly to pull the goods together. for exact position of needle. Proprietor THE NEW WAY TO EMBROIDER SCALLOPS.

bias tubing or fine embroidery or the design can be followed with the outline or chain stitch. of your We also make buttons own call material in all styles. evening wraps or children's dresses and can be used on any material. so the plainest or the most fastidious tastes can be satisfied. Joseph Korach 1258 ^—^— & Company II. these patterns for braiding must be most carefully done and the design followed exceedingly accurately in order to produce a satisfactory effect. i Lesson 27. Coats and Blouses the latest. OHIO m^m j i ——— jj i .li l —^— Page 17 . (Braiding and Embroidering) W. suits. Misses' Braided in and Children's Dresses. so that the effect will be one of little squares. On heavy goods such as velvet. bring up through the second dot of the first row. you have done all of the work in one direction. CLEVELAND. It can be developed with plain braid. turn the naterial and repeat the stitch at right angles to the first set of stitches. The stitch used to sew on the braid is a short stitch on the right side of the For materials of net. most artistic and approved designs. serge or linen a braid or cord the color of the material should be used. not having the time or the inclination to do this work for themselves can make up their garment and then have experienced braiders neatly and carefully carry out your ideas in any simple or elaborate design which you may select.— BRAIDING. There infinite variety of beautiful designs and patterns now in vogue for is an Those braiding. Suits. FOURTH STREET. Braiding Ladies'. soutache._l-Mi 1^- H I L^. Braiding is most suitable and effective for a border or a trimming for waists. pass down through the second dot of When the second row and bring up again in the third dot of the first row. chiffon braid or cord and a long stitch on the back. cord. draw the thread a bit. To secure the most attractive effect the braid should be sewed on the edge so that it will stand up on the material.^ through the second dot of the second row. or marquisette a dull silver or fine gold or soft silk cord put on with button The stamping of hole couching makes a most beautiful border or trimming. Bring your work to us or phone and we will tell us up by either you what we can do for you. gowns.

your monograms or We have plain and suitable for fancy letters every need of embroidery linen. Chevrons and emblems are very appropriate for sailor suits. while grown ups always appreciate their monogram neatly worked on their garments. and sew on. rons and monograms on a separate piece See of broadcloth or linen. Sold at the needlework department of every department and dry goods store or send for our illustrated bcok on embroidering and samples in your initials. boys' suits. CHEVRONS AND EMBLEMS. household handkerchiefs. You can either get the Reis emblems. table covers. such as lingerie. and a number of purposes which present them- and children always delight in an emblem or chevron on their arm. chevrons and monogram foundations and selves work over them with the Lesson 21). Etc. will supply you with Reis Foundation Letters for any desired purpose Ask Q t the needlework department Lesson 28. satin stitch (see you can stamp them on paper and baste them on the goods and embroider. Made in three styles-— Old English— Script— Block— sizes ^g inch to 10 inches. Page 18 . or crinoline or stiff lessons on embroidery for the monogram work.Use Reis Foundation Letters for initials. etc.— MONOGRAMS. cutting the paper or crinoline away as soon as finOr you may embroider the chevished. REIS 630 ASHABLE LETTERS •«amo r M«»OOIf)EBV BROADWAY NEW YORK The Morehouse Co. work bags.

Richardson's 1 Back for Pillow 1 Grand Prize Grecian Floss On sale at Diagram Lesson arrangement of stitches — showing and color scheme. This extraordinary offer is made to convince every woman of the superiority Richardson's Grand Prize Wash Embroidery Silk Why your home with attractive and not beautify effective pillows when the opportunity is offered? We will give you tire this en- Pillow Outfit including 1 Pillow Top — either oblong or square Every woman wants these attractive pillows and also knows the true value of —tinted on Aberdeen Crash.— This Beautiful Pillow FREE f All we ask is that you buy 6 skeins of Grand Prize Wash Embroidery Silk Richardson's or trated lesson for ZDC and a The fully illusPillow Top and Back are absolutely FREE. and Six Skeins of Richardson's Mercerized Cotton Floss for BERNER'S ART STORE Arcade Building oniy 25 cents Page Cleveland 19 :: Ohio TOUR CHOICE OF TWELVE DESIGNS .

then cut straight the slit to be worked. Cleveland. THE BOTTLES ARE STERILIZED and rinsed with Katharos before being filled. KATHAROS HAS LIFE AND SPARKLE. First mark the exact length of buttonhole you desire. Clothes of the BETTER SORT of Clothing. which is best described as being pure until it is declared impure. IS AS AS DISTILLED WATER. TERMS— $1. PURE ALWAYS PURE— CONTAMINATED h°nes : N ^r t 34 6 The Electra Pure Water Co. Boys and Children ON CREDIT HERE you'll find the NEW. at prices absolutely as low as at any cash store. but is much more palatable and tonic in its qualities. Distinction and Style.Clothes of Quality for Men. over cast the edges then work with the button hole stitch (as per Lesson 24). otherwise you may ruin your garment.— TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES. Pay as you can spare it.— Unless you have tested your skill in making buttonholes it will be wise for you to practice until you are in a fair way to feel confidence in your ability. Springs situated in proximity to thickly populated districts are peculiarly liable to sudden contamination. KATHAROS KATHAROS due to the liberation of gas during the electrolytic action. NOTHING BENEFICIAL IS REMOVED by the process of purification. A SQUARE DEAL CWALLEY'S CREDIT STORE ^"^ 424 Euclid Ave. 3241-W Cleveland. Ohio Page 20 . None of the tonic values are lost. The volume of sickness traceable to SPRINGS is of vast proportions. 2035 East 18th Street Cent. the DIFFERENT. then run a thread around the space you intend to cut. Women. Ohio Lesson 29. It contains enough of the minerals and salts to make it the most healthful of drinking waters.00 I'M THE MAN That'll Always Give You Down. Quality. The Purest Water Sold in Cleveland ( Bacterial Tests Abundantly Prove the Truth of this Statement ) THE PROCESS OF PURIFICATION necessary for the production of Katharos is the most advanced known to science. IS in which respect it is very unlike spring water. in the exact place you desire it.

then fasten well on under side. and examine our Furniture and Floor Coverings.— Lesson 30. they should be basted on a flat surface. 30th . continue till loop is covered.. then measure exact place button is needed. and mark either with a pin or with tailor's chalk.— Have button hole completed first. LOOPS. Get acquainted with our stock and new things with which our store is Let us show you what beautiful pieces can be had for little money. Page 21 Co. draw through cloth and bring thread loosely down to exact length desired. but in mending most materials. HAVE YOU EVER INSPECTED OUR LARGE FURNITURE STORE? It Will Pay Come You in to Do So see the filled. then begin on the cross wise threads and run over and under the lengthwise threads altering the over and under stitch. ON Lesson 31. DARNING. such as stiff paper or thin oil-cloth. In mending stockings a darning ball may be used. as it should match in color and quality. repeat three or four times or until you have thickness consistent with the weight of goods you are working on. Lesson 32. W. cor. and run your thread exactly along the lengthwise thread of the garment. leaving the thread moderately loose. Fasten your thread with the over and over stitch. Place button directly over mark or pin and bring up thread through holes of the buttons. and in many instances a thread or ravelling drawn from the goods itself is preferable. The darning thread to be used depends entirely — — — on the material to be darned. Fasten the thread well on the under side by several over and over stitches. allowing the eye of the needle to pass under first. Then begin at the bottom of the threads and insert the needle under the loops and over the thread. The Henke Furniture 3001-3021 Lorain Ave. Always begin a little beyond the worn places so your stitches will hold. When the button is securely sewed on wind the thread a few times around under the button and fasten well on the under side of the garment.— SEWING BUTTONS.

— Stoting. . or will of the price in stamps. One For sale piece each of White. send post paid upon the receipt 1382 West Ninth Street THE HALL-VAN GORDER COMPANY Page 22 CLEVELAND. Cut piece of the Havanco tissue the of the piece of lay a paper on cloth over for stockings. If possible have your patch of the same material. Same directions goods or other goods where part is worn thin and a patch required. not have the iron HOT. boiled. place piece of goods like garment under hole. directions Re-seating or repairing knees of boys' pants. the stitch to mended without darning or is A is thread from the cloth used and begun back from the rent and the back and forth in running is stitch a slanting line taken until the tear has been closed. follow above for Garments repaired with Havanco may be washed and ironed but not Heat is the only thing that will affect it.— Lesson 33. — There are many materials such as rain-proof clothing or kid gloves.. Baste patch on wrong side of goods. Black and Brown Ten Cents to the by package for . all and press with a warm flatiron. and patches can be put on and repairs made on a moment's notice by adhering to the following directions: Brush leaving size it all dust from garments. silk goods and place it between the garment and the patch. and on a rent or cut in a material which needs patching. a little larger than the hole. silk garments. On the right side cut out the worn or frayed part and make a small slit in each of the corners and turn down evenly the edges and sew down neatly on both sides of the garment. OHIO . PATCHING. etc. Lesson 34. Remember do patches. and useful for making many other kinds of repairs quickly and effectively. dry goods and notion stores. — Stoting be is used on »%&&% WTPrfiiTi?lIli-- heavy goods. druggists. also mending all kinds of rents in clothing. and cut it so the weave comes exact with the place to be mended. or that can be mended much better with the Havanco Mending Tissue than with needle and thread. HAVANCO MENDING TISSUE The best thing for repairing bottoms of skirts and pants.

will use the lawn hose with such force as to drive everything before it. With this Ideal Faucet Syringe you can get the same results. Ackerman's Patent Ideal Faucet Syringe and Bath Spray The most wonderful improvement ever made j-i i !<v . IDEAL FAUCET SYRINGE COMPANY 9601 Cedar Avenue. and the force of the stream can be regulated to suit the purpose for which it is used from a drop of water at a time to a pressure of 50 pounds. as there is no limit as to the supply of water. It is entirely unlike the old style. — The Ideal Patent Cup Attachment. The operator can use a pint or a gallon without stopping and at any force desired. the overhand patch put on the same as the is Lesson 34). except that the patch to a overhanded on the and the underside neatly cut down good seam and pressed.. A lady. Ohio Page 23 ..— OVERHAND ordinary patch right side (see PATCH. desired to use an antiseptic or sanative treatment in connection with a douche.. which is controlled by a valve. y\ '.•> . economical. no cumbersome water bags to get out of order..— Where may be used. sanitary. all that is required is to it is drop your medicine onto this Sponge in the cup. Can be used for everything a fountain syringe is used for. Cleveland. the goods are heavy and not It is often washed. so long found inefficient and unsatisfactory. perfect and effective syringe ever made. whereas with the Ideal Faucet Syringe you can obtain any desired force. while the ordinary fountain syringe has not enough force to it to dislodge germs. will last a life time. It is the most simple. if necessary. a which has and when sponge in it. in washing off dirt from the porch. clumsy fountain syringe.-. screw on cap and attach to end of rubber tube before putting on the spray and then screw on the vaginal pipe and the whole stream of water is medicated with the medicine. in a syringe. You can get any desired pressure or flow of water. always ready.: Lesson 35. convenient.

Ask your dealer for the W. Sew up the seam in any of the ordinary ways described in the preceding lesson. or they may be protected in various manners.— Cut Lesson and basted N. Lesson 40. Seams can be joined by machine stitching. Great care must be taken that the stitches are not too fine on tailored seams.— MILLINER'S FOLD. and then turn under the edges of the fold and stitch with one or two rows of stitching. turn down the fold and sew neatly just below the cord. — CORDING. 39. which is beautifully made at and ready for use. When the fold is lined. the bias strip to emerge.B.— BANDS AND FOLDS. Good Try Our Home-like Baking QUALITY HAS BEEN OUR SUCCESS COFFEE Page 24 . as they make a Cut your bias strips the desired easily made. the canvas is basted in and the edges of the fold fastened down with the catch stitch. but the stitching must be very straight and very even. and cutting diagonally. Baste and sew on either by machine or by hand. such as binding or overhanding the raw edges. & N.—A true the material with the straight edge of the top lengthwise fold exactly. 0. and are width and join the diagonal bias is Lesson 37. Hold the cord so cannot become twisted and place the exact center of the fold. ends. and stitch on either side gives a very good finish. allowing only the edge of The piping may be lined or unlined. Trim the under edge narrower than the outer. Lesson 42. Fold over the top edge.— Cut it the bias strips twice in as wide as desired. With a narrow turning fold the broad edge over the narrow edge of the seam and hem either by hand or on machine. SEAMS. Lesson — — stitch. obtained by folding on the selvedge or straight Folds and bands are used very neat trimming. —PIPING.Lesson 36. considerably on tailored suits. — an exactly even depth under the fold. piping. and silk thread should always be used to join the seams of a garment made of wool goods. your bias bands two and one-half times the width desired. DOUBLE FOLD. or by making the felled or French seams. Take your bias band twice the desired width and fold so the edges come exactly together. — — Lesson 38. and is an easy manner of disposing of the tailored seams. FELLED SEAM. chain running stitch. — — Cent. 41. or back stitch or the edge when of material that does not fray can be left raw or pinked. make a narrow turn up of the bottom edge and bring it up to cover the edge turned down. 4679 K Tables fnr Ladies DRINK Griffiths Restaurant 1022-1028 Prospect Avenue SENORA Always the Same CLEVELAND. On heavy goods that do not ravel or fray out to press back the edge of the seam. — Piping is made of bias strips folded in the center.

Lesson — ROLLED the right side. overcast using the damask hem. The edges of the goods to be bound should be evenly trimmed and the binding basted on the edges. The W. (See Lesson 5. turn garment and sew on wrong side taking seam of depth to entirely inclose the first seam. yet deep enough so the turning includes all the edges. Lesson —DAMASK at HEM.— To hem square corners. Much time is saved however. turn under exactly as for an ordinary hem. binding. — Table It is linen can be very neatly hemmed by hem. being careful the stitches do not show through on the right side. 50. or running stitch on the right side of the garment. Turn back the wide fold and baste down the narrow edge and stitch with one or two rows of stitching.) side of Page 25 .— Sew the seam by machine. Lesson 44. Trim evenly and narrowly. very simple. of Turn fold as of for an ordinary Fold back the linen the crease the first the hem and with very fine stitches. Catch the overlap of the corners of the hem to the underlap. while in others a hem is joined to a lace or embroidery insertion by what is called a roll hem. Lesson 48. linen or cotton. and cut out the underlying corners. When finished take a moderately hot iron and press down wrong the hem on 51. Lesson 49. -Make a plain seam leaving one edge wide and one edge narrow. leaving just room enough to catch the stitches nicely. or hemstitch (see Lesson 17). and cut the material in the fold and hem — — HEM the bias edges. This is one of the simplest manners in which to dispose — — — — — — of a tailored seam.— The proper material for binding the edges of seams is bias bands of silk.— TO CORNERS. Hold goods toward you and turn neatly and begin at the right and sew insertion and material together with the slant stitch. HEMMING. HEM. Lesson 47. Then cut a strip of heavy paper or notch a piece of card board the exact depth you desire your hem and use this paper or card board for a marker. when hemming can be done on the machine as it saves the measuring and basting. STRAP SEAM. — Is used for setting in insertion.BELLE VERNON MILK the Best Milk Lesson 43. WELT SEAM. For the ordinary hem begin by making a narrow turning.— THE BOUND SEAM. and overhand the end. Lesson 46. Stitch near the edge of the upper lap and again one-half inch back. or after turning the edges for the hem fold toward the center. Hems are made by turning the edge of the material twice in any suitable depth and the fold fastened down with the slant stitch or by hemstitching or in some instances the plain running stitch. Cut either bias or crosswise strips and turn under both edges and stitch over a plain seam. binding turns itself so all you need to do is to fasten the binding on by hand or sew it down with machine. & N.—THE FRENCH SEAM. Lesson 45. LAPPED SEAM. Baste down then hem with slant stitch (see Lesson S). & N. for your hem must be turned exactly even. or W. A lap seam is as its name implies one seam lapping over another.

a piece of goods cut either across or down the weave of the goods will do. Muffs. so it is not necessary But to make to baste in your tucks after a little practice on your machine. your goods into two or four even knot and use the simple running stitch. lace. then heavy draw goods on gathering string into exact position desired. Always draw the ends of the threads through to the underside of the garment and tie carefully. Hats. lay a damp cloth over them and press so they will keep their fold nicely. TUCKS. House Gowns.spaces. In underwear the W. or the work will not look neat. B. embroidery. Maternity Dresses. 52. Place the right side of the facing against the right side of the goods and sew firmly with machine or by running stitch. Use a bias band. bias tape is most useful in innumerable instances. Lesson 56. either N. Waists. tucks by hand you must make a marker and fold exactly on the line and — — sew down carefully by machine or with running stitch. or on a seam. Turn and sew down either with machine or with slant stitch. Facing of lace or embroidery around the neck or arm hole of sleeves is sometimes put on the right side making a trimming or finish. PL E ATI N G Accordeon Pleating and Side Pleating made in the newest effects for Party Costumes. tape. unless you have a pleating machine of your own. Where lace or embroidery must be joined in tucks sew the cloth so the seam will come in the fold of and under the tuck. Fancy Waists. at Lesson 55.— RUFFLES. only you must always baste down your pleats. Neckwear. made of goods without a finished edge edge must be neatly hemmed the Art Pleating Shop 438 Old Arcade Cleveland Page 26 . Dancing Frocks. Etc. Lesson — GATHERING.— Is simply from two to as many rows of gatherOn most materials it ing as desired. The White Sewing Machine is provided with a tucker with which you can easily both regulate your tucks and the space between the tucks. can be done as successfully on the sewing machine as by hand and very much quicker. chiffon or any of If the ruffle is to be sheer materials. FACINGS. Etc. Pleats are made the same as tucks. side pleating and sunburst pleating must be done but all a pleating establishment. — Ruffles may be made of straight or bias goods. And many styles of Pleat ings for Trimmings of Dresses. embroidery. & N. Lesson — — straight — Lesson 54. Children's Dresses. accordion pleating.— Divide rather make a 53. A first class sewing machine is provided with a tucker that can be gauged for any size tuck you desire. Dressing Sacques.— SHIRRING. Street Dresses. Embroidery or lace may be used for facing on some articles by following the suggestion of cut which is done in the same way as the ordinary facing. In this instance the edge of the embroidery or lace must be heavy enough to entirely cover the edge of the material of the garment.

put the right side of the lace to the right If the machine is to be used put the edge side of the material and overhand. and stitch on right side. of insertion. Lesson 59. For sale at all first-class druggists. Lesson 57. B. to the necessary fullness and by placing the right side of the material and ruffle together and sewing firmly. waists.— Baste the lace or embroidery on the right side in the exact position desired. Or the lace or embroidery may be set in by using the roll hem. quick. undergarments. On page 32. (See Lesson 48). Liver Pills CO. belts. gentle cathartic fL-J^y^-* & - RememberZOA-PHORA Stomach and gratifying results. Or again the ruffle may be inserted in the hem by placing the right side of the garment and the ruffle together and turn hem back to In very fine the wrong side of the garment. ZOA-FHORA KALAMAZOO. children's garments or any purpose. where hooks and eyes. or with a piece of the W. When the food is not being properly digested and the Liver refuses to work and the whole system becomes clogged with poison and you need a good.— SETTING IN LACE OR EMBROIDERY. & N. Headache. The Wilson Dress Hook and Eye is easy to hook and unhook. where an ordinary hook or buttonhole would be placed. make a second turning and hem. The White Sewing Machine has an attachment wherewith the hemming is done and the lace or embroidery sewed on with one operation. PRICE. 25 CENTS. snap fasteners or buttons can be used. and cannot rust. of the wrong side of the lace or embroidery to the edge of the right side of the hem and stitch. Lesson 58. bias tape. Lesson 48). work a ruffle of lace or embroidery may be put on with the whip stitch (see Lesson 6). you will find a cut of the Wilson Dress Hook and Eye. See page 96 for partial list. They are flat and invisible and never slip open as To sew on. Props. turn hollow side (see — Page 27 . Cut out goods Carefully baste down hem over edge leaving enough only for a narrow hem. and all Disorders Arising from a Sluggish Liver and Imperfect Digestion. either by gathering (see Lesson 52). ZOA-PHORA STOMACH The Scientific AND LIVER PILLS and Effectual Remedy for Biliousness.Moth 71. N. MICH. taking pains to catch through the narrow hem on the underside. Liver Pills Stomach have been used for over half a century with most For habitual Constipation and Bowel Trouble use the ZOA-PHORA Anti-Constipation Pills.— SEWING ON HOOKS AND EYES. or the ruffle may be sewed on the right side and covered with a bias band.— If the lace or embroidery is to be put on by hand.. sew hook so often happens with the ordinary hook and eye. dresses.— SEWING ON LACE OR EMBROIDERY.. which is done exactly as overcasting. which we recommend for skirts. and if desired an edging may be sewed on either by machine The ruffle is attached to the garment or neatly overhanded (see Lesson 6).

You can get these letters or monograms in nearly any shade or style and all you need to do is to baste them on your fabrics and work over them with your embroidery cotton or silk. and sew the eye where an ordinary eye or button would have been placed. The Warren Feather Bone for stays or collar supports can be stitched by machine into the lining of the article to be boned.sewn to an i Sm Phora won't do for garment. REIS' WOVEN NAMES are machine woven <>n good quality white "a m hi ic tape in either red.00 for 144 $1. is This or the Reis fully embroidered articles. as well as in the simplest.toward the cloth and the straight edge toward edge of cloth.25 for 72 Names Names Plate-. However. the hosiery.i different style letters. light hlue Mark and can he had in several . REIS & BRO. s accident. St. which gives the inside of the boned' article a very pretty finish. ami are easily cut apart anil .. The gauze. Every garment and piece of linen in your home should be marked. Men's shirts should be marked with an embroidered initial just above Linen.- Printed from Engraved Black on fine Tape: WOMANKIND no medicine will. navy.. ami will identify you in case of REIS' NAMES come in si jj. initials plainest form the distinctive mark which The Reis foundation washable letters lends dignity to the or the Reis initial medallions should always be used.es for $1. very quickly and easily done. in fact all laundered garments should be marked with the name or at least the initial of the member of the family to whom the article belongs. by procuring the Reis woven names. The stitch used is simply sewing over and over through the small round holes of the hook and eye. aprons and children's clothes. in a REIS' ENGRAVED NAMES t'anilin. but a more attractive way is to use the catch stitch (see Lesson 11). many prefer to use the feather stitch (see Lesson 18). It saves annoyance. prevents loss by laundries and hotels. in the most elaborate gowns. besides being a substantial stitch to hold the boning secure. lingerie and handkerchiefs beautifully monogrammed or with carecuff. fleeze lined and woolen underwear. Broadway and Bleecker ®*s NEW VCKK o^v/rv. Lesson 60.— PUTTING IN STAYS AND COLLAR SUPPORTS. G. What MARK YOUR GARMENTS WITH REIS' WOVEN NAMES Vonr garments should hear your name. for they are perfect and durable and will stand the boiling and ironing of the laundry without being damaged in the least. JL22Z Pa ere 28 . woven initials made on woven tape which can be neatly overcasted on the inside of the garment. They never wear out. $2.— MARKING OF LINEN UNDERWEAR. Lesson 61. as are the ordinary hook and fastener.25 IV arr-. uji 100 200 Names for $1.75 If your dry p><<ds store cannot take youi orders send youi order with remittance direct to us.

However should you prefer to have the embroidery done by more experienced fingers than your own or have not the time to devote on that part of the decoration of waist or gown you will do well to take it to your local embroiderer where the work will be done by trained hands who make a specialty of lessons together with full directions for of embroidering. Y. 4th St. N. 630 Broadway. Ohio . Reis' Initials elimate all this work. m.. Lesson 62. white. Embroidery Send or bring us that piece of Embroidery that you do not know how or have not the time to trouble to do. Served from 11 25 Cents to 2 p. beautiful and elaborate creations. dresses or wash suits which meets the refined feminine approval more than embroidery designs. embroidered initials are very beautiful. but pretty AVERYon the fad to have the Hand Regular Dinner. Clair Ave. and ^-* R "IS • it 9 EMBROIDERED SHIRT INITIALS is West Third St. We also make buttons of your own material. Joseph Korach Both Phones 1258 Page 29 & Company W.— EMBROIDERY DESIGNS. G ReiS & BrOS. m. requires artistic ability and much to make an attractive design. (Braiding and Embroidering) Cleveland. Price. There is no trimming or ornamentation for waists. St. CJA11 you have to do is stick them on and work over with silk or cotton. (CLEVELAND Sixth City initial sleeve or pocket of shirts. 10c. The designs and stitches used will depend entirely upon the taste of the individual and the style and texture of the garment. lavender and black. pajamas. ii red. work a. each or 3 for 25c.The Hawley Cor. navy. in all styles. Our experienced embroiderers can work out in perfect effects any design you may choose for any purpose Either machine cr hand work. green. On nearly all smart garments from the marquisettes and sheer chiffon and silks and dainty lawns to the heavier materials and all wash goods you will find at least a suggestion ranging from the pretty French knots and the simple outline and chain stitch following the simplest of patterns to the most intricate. etc. but all of the stitches ordinarily used will be found in this series stamping and making the garment.

A good sewing machine (B) THREADS. 11 Wheel (A) 40 and 41.) SEIWNG MACHINE. see that you have the necessary accessories at hand with which to do your work. Chalk — Skirt Marker. (Basting) Thread. On the other hand do not attempt to use a coarse thread in a fine needle or a fine thread in a large needle. shall be glad to show it up and let it speak for itself. gather.) 37. cheaply made machine when for the same money or a few dollars more a first class. The articles usually required are: 1 2 —Cutting Scissors — Button Hole Scissors Stick 3— Yard 4 — — — 8— 9— Pins 10 — Tailor's —Tracing 5 —Tape 6 7 Line Needles Thread. see page 31D). hemstitch and in fact do nearly everything that the human fingers can do in this line and a wise woman will keep her attachments always on hand and use them whenever possible for they will save her hours of useless labor. reliable and reputable make can be purchased. (See page 21 — Dress Forms.Buy a Sewing Machine before you see the WHITE.) 38. Rotary Shuttle IX! We and "Sit-Strate" Machines. (See pages 12 13 14 34. (Cotton) Thread. (See page 20— Boning. 426 ProspectCO. (See page 18— Trimmings. the thread should just pass easily through the eye of the needle. Before beginning the making of a garment. MACHINE Avenue Phones CHAPTER XI. and ? learn how much easier.) 39. (See page 16— Stiffenings 17 — Tape. Your machine must be kept perfectly clean and well oiled and by keeping the tension adjusted just right you will not need to give it much further attention. made in One is of the greatest mistakes is sewing is the use of a needle that too large and thread that too coarse. NECESSARY SEWING ACCESSORIES. (Silk. — Hooks and Eyes — Patterns 15 — Linings. DO DON'T DO WHAT Vibrator.) 36. with ordinary care will last a lifetime so the greatest of caution should be used in selecting one. It is always a bad investment to buy an inferior. A modern machine is supplied with attachments that will hem. better and quicker it will do your sewing. Botti WHITE SEWINGNo. quilt. (See page 19— Dress Shields. or where a line of tucks or trimming is desired.) 41. but and a large spool of white basting thread and a spool of colored basting thread to use where it is not expedient to mark with a pencil or tailor's chalk. provide yourself with a variety of sizes of cotton spool thread Be sure and Page 30 .

no greater extravagence than to invest in a cheap worthless eye. Pure costs One of the (D) most important SEWING THREAD. and while embroidery silk more than cotton or any of the other substitutes. they are always unsatisfactory and a garment not properly is — Page 31 . Be sure to drop in and see it at first opportunity. whereas a cotton or linen thread has no "give" or "stretch". PROSPECT AVENUE EMBROIDERY THREAD. silk will wash and wear without fading. if the thread is not of the Silk thread is particularly adapted for seam making. cloth. and yet the results will be disappointing. WHITE SEWING MACHINE BOTH PHONES (C) 426 CO. and made in every conceivable color and shade. & CO. the results to be obained will more than justify the difference in expense. Embroidery silk will give that rich. lustrous and beautiful effect that cannot be obtained with any of the imitations or substitutes. and that a yard of pure silk thread will stretch from two to three inches. a seam sewed with silk is infinitely stronger. and so if you are progressive and desire to do your sewing under the most advantageous conditions. count of its great strength. requisites in dressmaking is the thread used in sewing the seams. is strong.. 528 Broadway NEW YORK There hook and (E) HOOKS AND EYES. not be generally known that silk is the strongest fiber known to mankind. etc. on acproper texture. is made from your dealer does not carry "Belding's. elasticity and fast color. Great care may be used in selecting styles. BELDING'S SEWING SILK the finest quality of raw silk. With it you can do work that can't possibly be done on any other machine. consequently. and so available only for White at the value to buyers. will give to a stress. smooth and elastic. and It may will always retain its original shape. trimmings.DON'T GUESS you as a Sewing Machine user of the White Tension Indicator but see it for yourself. and we will BELDING BROS. It's exclusively White." write tell you where you can get it. then you'll need the WHITE. If us. is The kind of embroidery material all important.

.ClairAve. They are Wilson Dress-hooks. provided you have not previously had a free card Dress-hooks are guaranteed not to rust or crush in washing The Wilson and . — Black. upstairs and I'll run fix it.kooks FuBI-Size Card Sent V. Clair * y* ^* Town . Always Dress-hook Co. 10c a My Name Street Ask for Wilson Dress-hooks on all ready-to-wear . out beyond the edse and show." women accustomed to troublesome hook-. lation to They are truly a reve- on Dress. No matter how loose or tight your garment. 1 My er's Deal- Ave. "Thank you. its Many to of the common The brands of hooks and eyes will rust and leave marks on your garment. the back is always smooth. neatly closed and perfectly flat if you use these un ique hooks Though you can unhook them with per. — will fastened is ruined.omng. Black and White colors. Cleveland. White) previous sample Sold at notion counters everywhere (remember the orange and black card) Large and Small sizes. Name J. snap fasteners or buttons. .. So flat . Can not catch on trimmings. O. oard of one dozen. Gray.* invisible they never pull they do not leave the usual "bunch" which tells where other yf' Cleveland.'ilson i pppp H E» d Fill Out This Coupon . free. while others L-oi. garments Address J The Wilson Dress-hook Company 198 St. best thing to do to make sure that This Embarrassment Can Never Come to You if You Use the hooks that can't "pop" open accidentally or allow the dress to gape and spread. fect ease. J His Address. N. Outwear Tlense send..N. 10c several garments.** 198 St. and eyes. card Wilson Dress-hooks. making them invaluable on wash garments.State. Ohio hooks are sewn. Page 32 .ig not go through the is laundry without pieces... E.E.

but the finish of lining.. And. the quality of thread. is at hand. realize the These women Each season fabrics finds here the newest of cloths. Coat Pads. shields and dozen other seemingly trifling details. Co. the kind of hook and eyes. and always and pleasing assortments. place. Shoulder Forms and Bust Forms The Ladies' Home Journal Patterns Reis Bros. all the best of such are here. which we find is always reliable and satisfactory and costs no more than any other good fastener. because we make a specialty of all the little the linings and findings. to the style book and pat- We mention: Conovers' Naiad Dress Shields Warren 's Featherbone Wilson's Hooks and Eyes £5? Embroidery Foundations Coat Fronts. We Specialists in Dressmakers'' Supplies '"THE BEST DRESSED and making of their WOMEN are most often those who take the keenest interest and pleasure in the small details clothes. silks in large and dress things. Every convenience tern. importance of the little things not only the quality and style of fabrics.— you have a brand that in will not rust and that will positively hold your garment recommend and use in our demonstrations the Wilson Dress Hook and Eye. Page 33 .

select silk linings that will By procuring reliable.Belding's Pure name on the selvage. you are assured of a If your garment does not require a or satin lining. cloak or garment. very difficult. In order to overcome this difficulty. No fabric will wear as well as a pure dye silk fabric. Belding's Pure silk Dye Guaranteed Satin. It is naturally the most beautiful of all fabrics for lining purposes. as is in the exterior. satisfactory lining for your suit. you should take into consideration the HEXTER'S LINING STORE Dress Makers' Supplies and 1 Tailors' Trimmings " "Everything for your Dress but the Goods 153-155 Arcade : : Euclid Avenue Entrance Page 34 . some of the most reliable silk manufacturers are weaving their names in the selvage of the lining as a guarantee of wear. on account of the practice of adulteration or weighting. however. BELDING BROS. & CO. for the average person to wear well. 528 Broadway NEW YORK CITY LININGS. Dye Guaranteed Satin the every yard guaranteed to give satisfactory wear. effect in the lining of a coat (F) It is just as essential to it have a satisfying Silk is or jacket. Look for and accept no substitute.

and have it stuffed up for the purposes of having her own figure for fitting 75c and draping in the workroom. asking them to show you their newest and most appropriate linings for the purpose which you desire. so with this Manual of Sewing and Dress Making and a Pictorial Review Pattern. write us today ana we will supply you direct or give you of a reliable dealer who handles our line. Sour Risings. boning. finish it. Page 35 . This & 51 - 00 name Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Company. New York weight. or if it is a light weight waist. but you may rest assured that the new. quality and texture of your material and go to a reliable lining store. for if you do so you will take every chance of making a complete misfit of your garment. which is ready for use without having the trouble of cutting. but simple principle which is embodied in the Grean Waist Linings. you will find it easy to cut and fit and make any garment you may desire. Heartburn. where a fitted lining is not desired the Grean Invisible Net Foundations will be most valuable to you. and all Disagreeable Symptoms arising from a Disordered Stomach. Every person should buy one of grey percaline fitted to herself. 25 cents per box y (^ jTV " pTTfvn l\. according to sty!e. the seams are very loosely stitched. Dyspepsia. If you are lining a waist that needs a fitted lining. have hooks and eyes in the back or front. fitting. cutter and fitter never attempt to make even the plainest garment without a pattern. illustrating precisely how to put the garment together. There is also a Construction Guide. boned. and you will need to be informed as to the best. They are all finished. or professional have to suffer before they attain the result which you obtain in a ready made Grean Fitted Waist Lining. and in white and black Corsica silk. as new linings are constantly coming into fashion. 327-329 East 34th St. for often you can save a yard or so of goods or save yourself from running short of material. but above the boned portions and on the shoulders. \J XV A Digestive Tablets See ?oT 96 special offer For Indigestion. Bloating. (G) PATTERNS. which dressmakers at home. To all those who have not tried them it seems impossible. Nausea. overcomes all obstacles. putting on hooks and eyes and finishing. Always get your pattern before buying your goods if possible. the If your dealer cannot supply you. Pain or Distressed Feeling in the Stomach. With every Pictorial Review Pattern you will find a Cutting Guide show- ing exactly how to lay on your goods to the best advantage and how to guard against making any mistakes in cutting. by knowing exactly the — required amount to make the article in question. Be careful and purchase the exact size or exactly what your measure is around the waist and you will have a good fitting lining.FITTED WAIST LININGS is considered one of the most important inventions of the present time. Unless you are an experienced designer. Always select a pattern exactly your own size don't get one a size too large or a size too small. this affords easy ripping if a fitting is necessary and all the fitting is done at the upper part of the waist in all instances. much time can be saved by using the Grean Fitted Lining. /A / \ ± ±J. white and grey percaline. The cost of a pattern is so small and the help they give so great that you cannot afford to take chances of wasting your goods without a pattern to guide you. as it eliminates the endless preliminary fittings. They are made in linolawnblack. Belching of Gas..

. while on your skirts your seam must be bound. TRADE MARK REGISTERED Once used Always used Beware of Imitations AT ALL DEALERS A is very useful article for piping. Wright 40 Lispenard St." Bias Seam Tape INDISPENSABLE IN THE SEWING ROOM Saves half the work making a garment. for the binding around the neck and armholes and many other purposes. also in India Linon.? White and (*4 colors. Page 36 . & N. i in highest grade n - to 1 in. F. and for this BIASSEAHTAPt It turns itself "W. Wm.— (H) It is TAPE. for the support for the hooks and eyes. Mf rs .. to }A in. wide)." Bias Seam Tape Are you taking advantage of its Cambric and Lawn. &N. & Sons Co. Made "W. 4 widths (5-16 in. 13 widths Pure Linen and wide) usefulness. finishing or It will binding seams on all materials and for fagotting. widths and quality of materials. E. showing colors. Dept. a necessity in the home sewing room. not shrink. For the waist you will need it in many instances. Sample reference book free. almost impossible to make any article of wearing apparel without tape. NEW YORK. Silk.

I!. On the Parisian lingerie. We use in our demonstrations and always recommend the Naiad Dress Shield. And then too. which nothing in the world of the kind can rival in daintiness and beauty. tOnOVer LO.Y. of from perspiration be sure and select a cheaper shields on the market today are anything but satisfactory and the ruined waists showing the stains just below the shields are a result of their use. there is an odor from the rubber of the cheaper shields that is very offensive to a refined woman. On your underwear you will need it to bind over your embroidery ruffles.— purpose no tape answers so well as the W.. Bias Seam Tape. you will find that a support of the W. It does not deteriorate with age and fall to powder in the dress can be easily and quickly sterilized by immersing Guarantee with Every Pair in boiling water for a few seconds only. Added to these the fact that an unreliable shield will not wash and cannot be kept sanitary makes it imperative to procure a good reputable shield that can be relied upon to protect your gown or jacket.N. Narrow Bias Seam Tape means an additional wear of many months. 101 Franklin St. & N. protecting your garments shield reliable When dress — so many the The Crowning Attribute of Lovely Woman is Cleanliness NAIAD DRESS SHIELD SUPREME Beauty ! IN Quality ! Cleanliness ! POSSESSES two important and exclusive features. & N. (I) DRESS SHIELDS. At the cents. instead of facing. Page 37 . f* Manufacturers. stores or sample pair on receipt of 25 Tl 1 he f* T* /"* t.. which is ready for use and turns itself so the edge is always neat and even. you will see this tape neatly put on with the tiniest of slant stitch making a support just below the scallop of the embroidered edge and you will find it most satisfactory to follow their example. and when you have an embroidered edge to your garment as seen in Lesson 79.

collar-foundations. Girdles and Collars because Stitching bone in on by machine holds the place. insist and leaded dress weights that they are u -ip^M&tt" YtMendif£u Three Oaks. The class dress- is by far the (The Perfect Boning) for Waists. Michigan Page 38 . first it makers and subject of boning can be quickly disposed of. collar-bones. as best known and most reputable boning on the market.(J) BONING. giving permanent shape To bone a waist Send for requires less than 10 minutes our Instruction Booklet with attachment for machine FREE When buying waist-bones. for all tailors use only the Warren Feather Boning. girdles collar-sets. Linings.

serves for any number of persons by simply changing the waist lining. not only as a means to secure correct and perfect lines and insure a well fitting garment. reproduce your form. Write today for new illustrated booklet' "It's You. It relieves you of tiresome standing hour after hour for fittings.(K) If DRESS FORMS.. containing full description and prices. skirt and dress making and fitting or for dress repairing at home. To make Pneu Form perfectly. If you are ^eiiftxriii It's You The Wonderful Pneumatic Dress Form Sold In Many First Class Stores Pneu Form is the easiest and handiest dress form the world to manipulate. Pneu Form is mounted on an adjustable standard rod which may be raised or lowered to the exact height desired. Pneumatic Form Company J. but to save yourself the time and the tediousness of trying on your gowns. It is the practical invention of a woman and consists of a nonleakable air chamber made of specially prepared m and well covered rubber cloth. One Pneu Form. you do your own dressmaking or have it done at your home you should by all means provide yourself with a Dress Form. bust and hips with looking glass — — fidelity. For waist.6th St." Edition H-I. and enables you to study your own form while you work upon your own garments. you simply inflate it inside your fitted waist lining and before you stands YOU shoulders. 557 Fifth Ave. near NEW YORK Nothing so good for skirt And base this little box tlwi S». nothing can possibly take the place of Pneu Form. jjBK fitting and holds draping it all Page 39 .

a Dress Form of proper size and shape to aid you the form is always ready. $8.50. for during the tedious.00 and $15. conforming to any size or shape desired. If you sew. Pictorial Review Pattcis 10c & 15c Main EAGLE STAMPS FREE with Every Purchase Floor Euclid Page 40 .00. $3. — — t^ —of trying to see dress fits in the how your back or how —effectively by the use of the skirt hangs with the aid of a looking glass need no longer trouble you if you have a Dress Form of your exact figure.00. Correct model bust and dress forms at $1. and will last a lifetime. main floor. Hall-Borchert's complete correct Model Adjustable Form is in every way up to date. $10. $2. and the fit of your garment is of far more importance than the quality of the material. these economical prices. waist. etc..00. tiresome fittings you change position so often that you are liable to change your lines. simply and durably made.making your own gowns there is no way without assistance that you can fit yourself without a Dress Form. $12. saves time and annoyance and its cost — many times over.e sewing room as the Sewing Machine. $5. have a dress form by all means buy it at The May Co. Dress forms are now considered just as necessary just as indispensable to equipment of t . stands without tiring. can be adjusted at neck. and get the benefit of Notion Dept. Euclid.00..00. Shears and Tape Measure. $1. Skirt can be adjusted to any style and can be raised or lowered to any desired skirt length.50. hips. and YOUR VERY IMAGE in lines and proportions can be reproduced with a Hall-Borchert and Majestic GUARANTEED Perfect Fitting Dress — Form — Every style included Adjustable and Non-Adjustable— of which we show a large variety for every purpose and figure. With a dress form which reproduces your own lines perfectly you will be able to get a better fitting garment than if it was tried on yourself.50.

form. You should secure a Dress Form before attempting to make any of the up-to-date gowns. and which is impossible to get when you fit yourself We show two of the most reliable reputable without one of these forms. that a harmonious. are supplied with a dress today has neither the time or the patience to be manner. if only a dash of it.the entire fit of your gown be of ruined. do not go to the first store you happen to pass and take anything that may be presented to you. should usually be chosen. bands and special trimmings. tion entirely. 1 COVERED tooR DE R ^ ^ of Second Door East Opera House Page 41 . Dress Forms made and your dealer will gladly demonstrate them to you. Cleveland Dress Trimming Company ^ V^ 4 6 Euclid Ave. suitable and desirable effect can be obtained. tedious woman (L) DRESS TRIMMINGS. colorless complexion must always study the trimmings and adornment of their costume and some bright color. for and own as well. but take a sample of your goods and go to a first-class dress trimming establishment and ask to be shown suitable trimmings for your goods and often you will find something new and attractive that in the ordinary way would have escaped your atten- The plainest. laces. When you have a gown or suit that needs trimming. braids. their All first-class dressmakers desirous of saving their customers' time. One can always procure such a variety of silks. the fitted in the old. A person with a dull. whose beauty depend so much upon the graceful lines. most inexpensive gown can be made attractive with well selected trimming.

The bottom of the placket must be made secure on the under side. that you do not opening of the plackets. Home Cooking No Waiting Prices Reasonable M. Your skirt will never fit smoothly across the back of the hips if you do. reference will be made to the specific lesson treating of that particular subject instead of repeating the and over again. careful that every stitch that shows through on the right side be positive 5 and even. Wilson Hook and Eye. Don't have it too long nor yet so short an opening that you immediately tear open the placket. F. SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS In the following lessons we teach you the right way of making each part of a garment and in the succeeding lessons whenever that portion of the article is to be made. it be in the making of the buttonholes. upper fold. The following rules must be observed. same general instructions over seeking information and also taking SENSIBLE PLACES TO LUNCH EUCLID CAFETIERE 328 Euclid Ave.CHAPTER VII. 6 We most highly recommend the notch at the right place on — See that the placket comes to the exact your making a placket. Page 42 7— In . unless perhaps. 3 — Be careful in picking up your skirt. your placket opening down exactly the right length. both edges of the opening must be faced. Kirby Building MAIN 1565 No Waiters O'Brien Building MAIN 3914 Lesson 63. (Lesson the eyes sewed on the under facing and the hooks on the facing of the 53). Do not do it carebut see that your pattern is laid on correctly and pinned securely and that you cut accordingly. The mark which reveals the inexperienced or careless sewer is more quickly and more likely to be seen in the finish of the placket than in any other part of your garment. to get 2 — Cut easily into it on. 1 — Cut lessly. just far enough the garment. P. your placket binding exactly after your pattern.— PLACKETS. Stretching these edges means always a full baggy look. only the best of hooks and eyes. Luncheon 11 to 2 NEW CENTER LUNCH CLUB 813 Prospect Ave. or in trying of the stretch the edges 4 — Be —Use belt. C. confusing the one who is up valuable space with unnecessary repetitions.

'V K I XI -r Safe Reliable Effective The Wonderful Cleansing. If desired the belt or band can then be entirely stitched around. for the draping of waists. Turn the top of the folded edge toward the garment and stitch. 2 With bones ejecting above the belting. A peplum is used instead of a belt or band or draw string to hold down at the waist and Page 43 . If double. The object of the bone above the belt is especially useful to unlined or loose linings as some of the material can be draped or attached to boning.A.^. For sale by all upon leading druggists or mailed to you receipt of 50 cents. — — — effect. For this purpose wide belting is used. Cleveland.band may be of one piece be of one piece lined or faced. the Grean Co. especially as wide belting shrinks from one to three inches to the ward. but a peplum is much easier especially to fit.— BELTS AND BANDS. 3 With boning above and below the belting to form a pointed bodice into shape.— The belt or doubled or may However. which is a feature not to be overlooked in wash dresses. No Married Lady Should Be Without This Wonderful Antiseptic SANAR REMEDY 746 Euclid Avenue CO. Turn over the under edge and hem down to cover the seam on the inside of the garment.^XA. cut a straight piece double the width desired. Skirts and dresses at present are made with high belt.— YOKE AND PEPLUMS— A yoke is a very particular part of a garment to make. Ohio Lesson 65. 64. If the belt or band is faced sew the straight strip and the facing together and proceed the same as directed above. have improved this method by offering a seamless shaped belt thoroughly shrunk. For the Use of Careful Refined Women A A K^ C* A\ T\T l\ T"} ^ AA. A trial will convince you of its merits. 2j^ inches wide and fitted by gusset seams and boned Lesson BELTS AND BANDS. for ordinary belting. You can get the Grean Belt in three distinct styles: 1 Having bones as wide as the belting. Healing and Soothing Antiseptic Ever Used for a Douche for Practically All Female Weakness Sanar can be used without fear of injuring the* most delicate or affected tissues as it does not smart or burn and is highly recommended by many of the most eminent physicians in this country.

peplum — gather the waist or corset cover if it at the yaist line and put on exactly as were a skirt you were attaching. . effect fitted. style many the peplum waist. is a part of the of garment and worn outside of the In is such not instances the in peplum must be exceptionally well any and all fitted or the good. COMF>AMY "Where things are as represented" A GREAT STORE ALWAYS BUSY Prices Always as 5"flK3 Low or Lower Than Elsewhere Dry Goods. yoke — attach collar (Lesson 66 or 68). West 25th. Sew up seams If If either by machine or by hand (Lesson 41). but cases a yoke must be most carefully 76). Cut out (Lesson Baste up. fit and alter (Lesson 77).keep in in proper position the gathers of the corset cover or waist. Ready-to-Wear. be entirely done from the shoulder seams If it The fitting of the yoke must and the small space of the under arm seams. For the seams. fitting of the peplum all adjustments must be made at the joining is You should be it sure the pattern exactly the right is size about the waist before using. across the chest in wrinkles let is too tight if or draws out from under the arm and too loose in the neck and across the chest take up the under the arms. of the fashionable waists of today the is However. All alterations for the neck seam both on the shoulders and must be made from the shoulder seams only. Opposite New Market Page 44 Etc. tight or will Care must be taken that the peplum not made too draw up and wrinkle. Rugs.

— Cut out (Lesson 76).' .-JJ^C? Made Coat -^i ^hia is . \f'i 1 / . You will find Orean Tailor Made Coat Collars beautifully shaped and pressed. unless you are experienced in tailoring. / / ' . Large stitches and an uneven turn of the material of the collar would ruin the appearance of the most beautiful suit. 5. but if you wish to try to them yourself the following instructions should be followed: make Cut out exactly after pattern. for the canvas cannot be sewed in the seam with the lining without making it a little bunglesome. W"-"^ made \ \ so. Grean for those who find it difficult to shape an<^ ma ke the under-collar. 2. Baste in soft pliable French canvas after you have carefully shrunk it. Collars" a regular //-^^\ A /i'/""" /A *J'f r'/x'f /'. The tailored collars are rather difficult to is make 1.— TAILORED COLLARS. "Tailor /ff. taking care the stitches do not show through. stitch. Press again. Press very carefully. i underpart. 8.' v/m "-- / ' ' '\ \ * Collar. It is not necessary any more to make collars of cloth to match on the ' . Sew around the bottom edge and the sides and turn right side out. 3. . Lay right side of goods to right side of lining and baste. Lesson 67.— HIGH entire COLLARS. designed by Mr. We will supply you direct or through a reliable dealer and send you a catalogue of other dressmaking helps. Then bring the outside material of collar neatly and smoothly down. sufficient 1 in collar to hide lining. in the A it perfect cut of tailored collars is shown above figure. turning under the edge and carefully overcast (see Lesson 6). so best to buy the under collars ready made.'/] . 4 5 6 — Sew —Sew —Sew on all trimmings and ornaments. in collar supports (Lesson 60). so the canvas will keep . which if is 3 necessary for the material which you are using.--V/ • '. Attach lining of collar to right side of garment and sew down by machine.' /'-'<> /jVA/ < 'C-'/y /. If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealer's. * -. write us. 10. 6. 9.' ' \ vl | e_ 13C Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Company New York 327-329 East 34th Street. cutting it out the seam's width from the edges. Men's coats are never and invariably made in ' \ i \\ \ \ \ i /' ' ' ' 1 ' either black or grey cloth. on hooks and eyes (Lesson 59). 2—Turn seams around lining should be of cambric — Hem down with slant - Lesson 66. being careful to keep the goods and the canvas and the lining always perfectly smooth. . Accept no imitations or substitutes. Catch the edges of the canvas to the cloth with the catch stitch (see Lesson 11).in its proper place. . Sew on trimming. 7. taking great pains that your stitches do not show any more than you can help and that you have entirely covered the seam of the underpart of the collar and that you have kept an even line. Tailor-Notch < . 4.

Ohio kind in The only incorporated College of Our students and satisfied patrons the United States and Europe. are found throughout Lesson 68. 20). most pliable French canvas and baste it smoothly on the wrong side of the 2 — — Cut out (Lesson 76). only If stiffening is necessary use cambric or the finest. 3 — If lined turn right of lining to right of collar.00. 1899 abilities. as Your character sketch three above stated and any questions scientifically and answered by mail. 6 If collar is to be left separate turn inside edges and neatly stitch or sew down by hand.— TURN DOWN 1 COLLARS. perfectly Strictly confidential. personal The Acme College 1714 of Science its Adams St. softest.YOUR CHARACTER SKETCH SCIENTIFICALLY GIVEN By the Expert and Noted Character Readers of the Acme Your perfectly defined College of Science — Incorporated under the laws of Ohio 1907 social Est. and domestic qualities and your physical condition correctly diagnosed. Toledo. using the fine running stitch slant stitch (Lesson (Lesson 5). capacities. and is stitch at outer gar- edge. material. business. or the Page 46 . 5 right right side side edge of to of garment and —Turn — collar under side of edge of and hem down neatly to cover seam. 4 — If collar to attach of top to ment turn collar stitch. Price $1. America..

(Lesson 53). 8 Gather top of sleeve between exact notches. Some are padded. (Lesson 2— Baste up seams. page 54. 15c Per Pair Shoulder forms are made in different outlines. and fitters must use their judgment. and Sloping. and some are not. inside the coat. to the heaviest automobile and fur garments. Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. but much of the difficulty is removed if proper care is taken in observing the directions and in- structions and paying strict at- tention to the 1 notches. in edges of other side. the bottom terations. 327-329 East 34th St. Mr.— SLEEVES. New York Lesson 69. except the opening of the sleeve where cuff is attached must be faced back. — — — — — Lesson 70. — Cut out. — — of the sleeve or cuff. gather sleeve.— SHIRT WAIST SLEEVE. They fit is desired. but for garments where a permanent and a good shoulder They add a perfect outline to all shoulders. High. . 10 Sew in securely on machine. Grean has designed special shoulder forms for different weight of garments from the lightest weight silk and taffeta. Page 47 .. are basted to canvas and you wA\ save a number of hours of alterations. 1Take a straight strip of the material. page 51. if you will begin to fit by first placing the shoulder form in suchposition as you would like to have your coat appear. and Construction Guide. 2 Baste 3 4 — — —Turn down evenly and sew on machine. 3 Sew up seams on machine and press. Straight. thin.PATENTED SHOULDER FORMS Shoulder Forms are used not for disfigured shoulders.— Follow instructions (Lesson 69). pliable. The ordinary lap closing is made the same as the lap pocket. 7 Baste together cuff and sleeve and sew in securely on machine. as to what to use. Many beginners think sleeves are the hardest part of the garment to put together. not noticeable. or face. 76). Baste to cover seam and sew either by hand or on machine. ends. full- and tack again where the ness being most careful to have the notches come exactly together. See Cutting Guide. 9 Attach where notches of waist designate. on and if Try al- necessary make (Lesson 77). lay right side against right side of goods. where the fullness starts. (Lesson 48). 4 Hem. at the notch where the fullness begins in the sleeve and turning the right of the sleeve to the right of the cuff tack to the notch in the cuff — For No. bottom of 6— Find the 5 1 and 3.

cuff. the bands are cut double width and turned back and hemmed over the seam which joins cuff and sleeve. but outside of seam. • — For upper lap sew on in same manner. which is so much in vogue now. or you may — Attach sleeve to lining of the cuff and turn back right edge of cuff and If cuff. Stitch your goods well over it. —The coat sleeve is much simpler as steps exactly according to instructions of Lesson 69. but instead of facing. underlap put right side of strip to right side of sleeve 3 — Turn back and stitch by machine on both sides of strips. — Cut out exactly after pattern... are completed before attaching to sleeve. 34th St. but a few suggestions mill make it plain just as 6 how 7 awkward for the to make them.— of Lesson 69. 2— lined turn right side of lining to right side of goods and stitch sides and bottom of 3 — Turn right side out and stitch again at the very edge of the —Attach as step 6 (Lesson 69). 2— For 4 and the stitch. The cuffs belonging to the sleeves are sometimes a little beginner. write us and we will either your order or direct you to a reliable merchant. Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. 3. If fill and your dealer cannot supply you. except that the top of the flat coat sleeve. turning the top of strip either with perfectly square corners or in a neat V shape. cuff. requires a little soft foundation. COAT SLEEVE.— — Lesson 71. 4 5 stitch to than when cover seam. put damp cloth over and hold down firmly until you have pressed out all the superfluous fullness. if the material is soft you can press out the material is hard or harsh. plain The Band Cuffs are put on the same and CUFF— (Shirt They 1 Waist). designed for the purpose of correcting the general hollow parts between the Arm Hole and the Bust. The coat sleeve is made For this purpose the sleeve roll of the Grean Dressmaking Specialties will be found very useful. 327-329 E. New York is c Page 48 .— LAP CLOSING. —Cut two straight strips. TURN BACK Make exactly the same as for shirt made of double length to turn back or instead of at the top. The 1 lap closing as seen in sleeve No. is an article used always by that have filling ever tried it. and put on edge of pressing board. CUFF. The latter is much neater and gives a more tailored finish the top piece of the cuff is sewed into the seam. Baste inside of the sleeve. If more of the fullness than COMBINATION This AR1VI PAD all fitters Combination Arm Pad. It is very simple in construction. and seven are omitted. except your cuffs are either are attached at the bottom of the cuffs waist six Lesson 72. CUFFS— PLAIN BAND.

sore throat or nostrils. etc.—POCKETS. is the only one very much in evidence these days. cough. as seen in Lessons 87 and 107. rendering the disease still more difficult to treat. except that their outer edge is usually joined in the facing or with the seam of the ruffle. is very simple to make. viz. It does not operate on the douche principle merely drying up and washing out the secretions. the Price 50c per bottle The Zoa-Phora Cold Remedy and the Zoa-Phora LaGrippe Remedy are for sale at 50c per bottle at alllfirst-class drug stores. throat. The patch pocket. The pocket should be of heavy mercerized goods made into a pouch the desired depth. The lap must be cut on an exact grain of the goods and should be lined with silk or some light material." More suffering comes from neglected colds than from all other causes. back and limbs sometimes with chilly sensations and nausea— will almost invariably meet and control the disease. Dr. symptoms. and at the same time increasing the severity of the usual symptoms. For partial list see page 96 of this book. Dr. hut showing its greater From these deductions. A NEGLECTED COLD. dullness of hearing and smell. but restores the parts to healthy action. A speedy and safe cure is invaluable. and_ revoice. together with the use of certain remedies in the treatment of the disease. if taken promptly on the first signs of the disease— known by aching of the head. thus preventing a tedious and perhaps dangerous illness. Pengelly was led to formulate force on the weaker parts. and stitch on the lap. Then draw your thread from the top mark in a straight line to the bottom mark and back again on the opposite side of the goods. Penhad been a careful student of its nature. SoreThroat. which treatment. Croup and Protection Against Pneumonia An old proverb says: "Never neglect a fresh cold if you would avoid sickness. convinced the Doctor that LaGrippe was (from whatever inducing cause) a sudden and general congestion attacking more or less the whole system. Page 49 . Since the tiilly now justly famous ZOA-PHORA LaGRIPPE REMEDY. tightness at the root of the nose. Back stitch the pouch into the slit of the garment and stitch on the lap. letting the needle pass through the entire thickness After a row of stitching has of threads from the bottom mark to the top. headache. Hem tops and turn in bottom and both sides and stitch on garment.: Sneezing. been made at the bottom and both sides of the lap. Zoa-Phora La Grippe Remedy first invasion of the disease known as LaGrippe in this country. it should be fastened as Measure one-eighth inch above and one-eighth below the slit and mark. Pengelly's Sure Shot) FOR Colds. These investigations.Lesson 73. Sewing Apron pockets are made in the same way. pain in the temples.— Persons suffering thus are martyrs to every change of weather. ZOA-PHORA COLD REMEDY Its improves the sight and hearing- most remarkable storing the impaired of effect is the clearing of the head. slit from tearing into the cloth. The most trifling exposure renews the attack. To keep the follows: Zoa-Phora Cold Remedy (Formerly Dr. back stitch the pouch into the slit of the garment. Such you have in Zoa-Phora Cold Cure. blurred eyes. Repeat this process until you have firmly secured the slit— then bring the thread through and work over and over. The lap pocket as shown in the figure of the coat in Lesson 96. brow or cheek. and results. Cough.

always remembering it is almost impossible to put too much good press work on a garment. as the result of a marvelous chemical process. Shino Chemical Handle Duster. This is a slow process. r»l| Ine rioneerMrg. Shino Chemical Mitten Duster. especially anything with a mesh. Shino articles. Page 50 . Cleveland. When filled makes them The The The The The The The Shino Chemical Dust Cloth. In pressing folds always see that the fold is perfectly straight. but in case one is not at hand one must always. An electric flatiron is a great advantage to the woman doing her own dressmaking. linens should be dipped in water in which has been placed a handful of salt. and in pressing sleeves one should shrink considerable of the fulness that is apt to occur on the inside seam of the arm at the elbow. but prevents its spotting and wrinkling so much. for a good presser can straighten out a multitude of little defects in sewing and stitching. with dust. garment to hold its shape better. Lesson 75. but twice is better.— SPONGING AND SHRINKING. or sent postpaid by the manufacturers. to. just as a magnet attracts steel. have a hot flat iron conveniently near. Shino Chemical Broom Cover. wring out and then press until dry. Ail 4" f* 522 ° Sweeney Ave. f*. Very thin goods should not be sponged Sponging not only helps your or shrunken. Dampen and iron till the cloth is perfectly dry then dampen once again and repeat the pressing. Wool goods should nearly always be sponged and shrunken as should ginghams and linens. attract dust. Much of the beauty of a gown depends upon its pressing. Simplex Mop Handle. while a poor presser can make the most carefully put together garment look badly. lint and germs. If you are not good at pressing it would be best to baste back your seams in their exact place until you get more accustomed to pressing them in place.— PRESSING. Wool goods should be laid right side down and a wet Repeat at ironing sheet placed over it and ironed until it is perfectly dry. all Sold by good dealers. Shino Chemical Dust Mop. Ohio CHAPTER VIII. rinsing in warm water good as new. least once. Lesson 74. but your goods will Ginghams and stay fresh and in shape long enough to pay for your trouble. Shino Chemical Floor Polisher. especially in making a wool garment. Always have a good piece of cotton long enough to cover the entire seam.Shino Dust Absorbing Articles Reduces the Labor of Dusting and Polishing One-half.

CUTTING. we show their patent cutting guide.— CUTTING GUIDE. There is absolutely no chance of cutting one piece the wrong way of the goods. 823 Superior N. No CUTTING GUIDE 4069 FOLD more than you OF 54 INCH MATERIAL WITHOUT Pictorial NAP' their need. Central 2259-L For prices on any Sewing Machine or Supplies PHONE or CALL on Expert Repairer will Call and Give Estimate Lesson 76. just as an expert would lay it out in order to cut it from the least possible material. 1 Before beginning see that you have every thing necessary to go ahead. — Page 51 .Main 2189 SEWING MACHINE SUPPLIES AND REPAIRS BRYSON CO. One accompanies every Pictorial Review pattern. cutting guide a child Review Patterns are error proof and with can lay out and cut a garment as well as an expert.. No chance of cutting two backs or two fronts because a careless folder picked up two pieces instead of one. and no Mistakes are impossible with this guide before you. (See Department 6). It shows just how to lay out the pattern on the goods correctly and scientifically. No chance of wasting an inch of material mistakes. By courtesy of the CUTTING GUIDE 4-4/0 SIDE 6ftCK C^ POLO OP 36 INCH MflTERIflL WITH NAP BflO puzzling for hours to find how to lay out the pattern properly. Pictorial Review Co. E.

to 2 P. and one chosen with due regard for the material to be made up and for the occasion of the wearing of the garment.with a good paper pattern for your size and suitable to height and individuality.M. Do not make the mistake of buying a pattern a size too large or a size too small. your is thrown out when you start to make alterations. M. Main-2371-J C— 6417 r £ ar=H r=]G "N \ The Mandarin No. to 2 P. but get your own size otherwise the entire proportion of your garment 2 —Provide yourself style.M. Page 52 . M. After Theatre Parties a Specialty Private Dining Rooms Reserved for Dinner Parties Special Attention Given Ladies without Escorts Our Kitchen is Open for Inspection to Patrons from 11:30 A. 622 Prospect Avenue ^n i — i i =ir=i i==i r=i i= ir^=: it=H Cleveland's Finest and Most Elaborate Chinese-American Cafe Shoppers' Novelty FROM 11 Luncheon A.

then it fold. Ohio Selling Merchandise that bears the Stamp of Quality. being most wrinkles either pattern or goods. The nap should always rub down except velvet.. and if your goods have a nap very strict attention must be given that the grain or nap lie in the same direction. and will save you many possible is — 8— Pin down the pattern.-. 10 Then with tailor's chalk or with a colored cotton thread run a line showing all the marks and perforations of the pattern. goods are 7 When the width of the goods will permit lay the pattern on the double fur or plush. and fit it perfectly 3 If — — — before cutting into the dress goods. 5 If the garment has a lining cut the lining out first. no properly laid on cut out with very sharp shears so the goods are not frayed or haggled and under no circumstances fail to cut out every notch indicated on the pattern. 6 Follow exactly the construction guide for laying on your pattern which you have altered to fit your figure. 11 —Then proceed to baste together as is directed in Lesson 77. A RELIABLE STORE The Boston Dry Goods 8813-17 Wade Park Avenue 13592 Euclid Avenue 8601 Detroit Avenue 14712 Detroit Avenue Co. baste it up and make all necessary alterations of the pattern (Lesson 77). until you have made sure what it is and where it belongs. See that every piece is on precisely the — your material as designated on the construction guide. 9— When absolutely sure every piece in careful to have it perfectly flat and — errors. and ac- cording to the construction guide. UnlO LakeWOOd. 4 Iron out every piece of your pattern and identify each section and if there is any doubt in your mind compare it with the similar piece on the construction guide. for preparation. flowered or have a design see that it all runs in the same direction. right angle of should rub up. Cleveland .your goods are wool or gingham or such as need attention follow directions (see Lesson 74). This is of vital importance to the success of your garment. at prices that are no more and often less than elsewhere Good Values Courtesy Page S3 Progressiveness . which furnished free with every Pictorial Review pattern. Striped or plaid materials must be perIf the fectly matched so the strips run into the seams on the same angle.

hours of time. These are made in Black and White. ONELLY 120." "VOTES FOR WOMEN are not so necessary as 44 Greanet »» LOTS FOR Many WOMEN are buying Invisible Home of them Sites in Waist Foundations Are used in making light weight lace or chiffon waists where a t ght-fitting lining would be out of place. Williamson Bldg. FITTING AND ALTERATION.. The" made with a wide. Cen.— CONSTRUCTION. making of waists. 121. Main 5283 Ground Floor 327-329 East 34th Street.. Do not attempt to put your garment together without this construction guide. is shaped seamless belt. or the one accompanying your pattern. putting on the hooks and eyes. 122 If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealers. work and worry can be avoided by procuring the Grean Fitted Waist Linings and Foundations as it saves all of the labor of cutting basting. 2044 Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. constantly before you for it In the — CONSTRUCTION GUIDE 44JQ SLEEVE SECTIONS 'SIDE will BACK C plainly which pieces to join together and just where to join see that the notches correspond and that the seams are taken up on exactly the line shown and that each portion of your goods is in ar- them. get off at East 152nd St. to be guided by the waist and not by the bust. specially for the summer or for warm climates. according to waist measure. etc. and the upper part of coarse Net which forms just the right kind of a foundation for light waists. and needs to be fitted only by adjusting the seams above the boned portions and on the shoulders. We will supply you direct. write us. Take Euclid Beach Car to Beach Grove on Lake where all installed Shore Boulevard. show you Always Page 54 . which protrude above the belting and are finished with hooks and This is the new eyes. #100 down and $10 month buys a lot 40x125 for $750. Grean System of Fitting. New York Lesson 77. or through a reliable dealer. beauboned. It tifully BEACH GROVE improvements are being and homes erected. boning. But if you decide to make your own lining or foundation the following directions must be carefully followed.

Form Made wide of Finished handy tool to have around. For Unlined Waists and Dresses USE Grean Shaped Seamless. put it together and fit it. We shall be glad to demonstrate it at any time. all necessary alterations before cutting into the dress goods. Your Dealer BOTH PHONES 426 Prospect Ave. and make See cut 4410.«e ..American cordance with the diagram of your construction guide. for it takes time. With a great many Rotary machines in order to remove the Shuttle one has to use a screw driver and take out three screws. If the garment has a lining. White Sewing Machine Co. The greatest of care should be taken in the basting up of the seams of your garment. Black or White ^. cut it out. It's with another time saver which herringbone belting hooks and the busy operator will surely appreciate. but naturally. but with the White you simply a very raise a latch.. r 35c at eyes Don't forget it! The White Rotary means more to you in a sewing way than you can think. you don't care to use it unnecessarily.Have rpT?T T TIVT/^'C 1 EEd lULLllMjiS ICECREAM? CONSTRUCTION GUIDE4069 French . Boned Girdle A SCREW is DRIVER. for the effect lies in perfect lines and it is impossible to obtain these without good basting. Page 55 Sizes 22 to 33 inclusive Waist Measure.

Bell South 188-L Off. Bell Main 3938 . Margaret B.Central Dr. Monks Osteopathic Physician 302 Lennox Building Treatments by Appoin tmen t Res.

Skirts must be altered in the seams. and the same general instructions apply.. Care must always be taken alter To for — — — not to take too large a seam across the hips. Then follow the specific instructions of the lesson. the necessary width. extending each gore an inch at the top.If garment wrinkles. To take up skirt at waist. as alter. and gradually slant to meet the side back seams. Begin six inches below the waist line. After you have properly cut and fit and altered the lining of the waist and measured and adjusted the pattern of your skirt. you will then be ready to cut into your dress goods. and let out gradually the seams the deIncrease also the side sired width. between shoulders or across chest or at neck or armhole. 1 Boating Bathing Out of Door Life Turkish. If the hips are too large. and fill in the hollow of the back by sanitary pad. 1 Summer Camp Apply to the 1 Open July 1 to June Systematic Exercise and Recreation Young Women's Christian Association Prospect Avenue and 18th Cleveland. Gymnasium Open Oct. however. than to alter the back of the skirt any more Fpr flat — the back seams. Begin at the same point six inches below the waist and decrease the size of the seam. Electric Light and Shower Rest West Side Branch Franklin and W. two inches below the lower line of the Square or Sloping Shoulders. 32nd Lake Grove Farm St. Ohio Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister to Sept. Begin six inches below the hip line and decrease the width of the seam. at the hip line of the front and side gores. edges of the gores. Begin six inches below the waist line of remembering. much of the a hygenic and than absolutely necessary. that it is better to take up fullness as possible. To alter for large abdomen. Or if skirt must be enlarged at waist. except the front and the front edges of the side gore seams. hole.To alter for very straight figures. —Take arm up a seam. until you have a perfect fit. for if too tight the skirt will wrinkle and draw. well made gown. but do not alter any seams to remedy this trouble. alterations must be made from the shoulder seams and arm hole. Begin six inches below the hip line and gradually take up the seam. and its length adjusted from the bottom or six inches below the hips. Ohio Page 57 . being careful to keep a perfect seam line. Begin six inches below the waist line and increase seam gradually until the correct size is obtained about the waist. carefully but before the outside material is cut into you must know that your pattern and lining are both altered exactly right. The same general instructions of careful work and perfect fitting and correct alterations apply to the making of all garments. — — — and backs. Baths Massage Madison. which you are following in making the garment in hand and you cannot fail to have a well fitting. If the hips are too small.

THE WELL GROOMED WOMAN. In fact the well groomed woman studies herself. which make the face look old and cross are unnecessary— remove them with the Crown and Bridgework a Specialty B. leaves no marks. including booklet on care of face. & P.— CHAPTER woman The well harmony and appropriateness of groomed becomingly fineries is XII. Sold at drug and department stores. If your dealer cannot supply you we will send by mail.00 boxes. & P. Scientific beauty culture means bodily and scientific —that to is. but with her If she is inclined to be stout she does not wear plaids individuality and style. the wrinkles erased and the beauty greatly increased by the nightly application of these well known B. Ohio CLEVELAND. OHIO Page 58 . Both are put up in 25c. These unsightly. The well groomed woman's clothes are never loud or conspicuous and the colors always harmonize not only with the occasion for wearing. (Two Women) 1790 East 68th Street Cleveland. SCIENTIFIC BEAUTY CULTURE. dress. contains no chemicals. together with an appreciation of the appropriate either with and the beautiful. at birth. dressed —her gloves. tears or spots are ever visible and no hooks. and gowns herself to express an innate sense of refinement and good taste. care or culture of that beauty which or less. eyes or buttons ever missing and her shoes are always clean Her skirts always hang evenly and her belt never is out of place or shined. more our duty to ourself as well as to others to be all that is bright and healthy and beautiful. or reds or pinks or any of the colors or materials suitable only for slight. Seventh Floor. certain. We cannot be this if our livers are out of order and our complexion anything but what we would wish open pores. It Mother Nature gave the wisest everyone. safe. & P. on receipt of price. Wrinkle Eradicators Simple. handkerchiefs She always has her hair neatly and and neckwear and all her are immaculately clean and no rips. skin dry and is — Frank Dowd DENTIST LOOK OLD? Wrinkles are only skin deep. B. postpaid. CO. Wrinkle Eradicators. neatness. 50c and S1. one who exhibits cleanliness. fairy-like figures and a painfully thin woman does not show good teste in wearing stripes and such combinations as are supposed to be worn only by women desiring to reduce the appearance of their size. The skin can be made smooth. and above all her collar is always in perfect position and neatly fastened fancy pins or with invisible fasteners. FROWNERS are for the lines between the eyes. telling marks of time. Schofield Bldg.

lined. NEW YORK.50.00. holGANESH EASTERN MUSCLE OIL braces sagging muscles. which removes double chin and and the restores GANESH FOREHEAD STRAP ($4.00. ADAIR'S GANESH TOILET PREPARATIONS AND FACIAL TREATMENTS obtainable for years only at her Salons in New York. $5. as they reach the CAUSE of all blemishes and re-establish by natural means a healthy complexion. $2. strengthens the skin. W. by antiseptic $2. to become deeper day by day. $1. Faithfully used they accomplish the most wonderful results everything that is claimed for them. Bottle. THIS PHOTO PORTRAYS THE GANESH CHIN STRAP ($5. or that the muscles and tissues of the cheeks have become relaxed.00. dry skins.50) lost contour. owned and patented by Mrs.unhealthy a state of neglect that makes the lines wrought by worries.00) which cures deep lines between brows. $6. a splendid face wash. which with maturer years will surely become a hard line between it and our original chin. FACIAL MASSAGE. Paris and Nice. illness and time. for tender. can be obtained nowhere else in the world. LONDON 92 21 West 38th Street.50. These Imported Appliances. withered skins to velvety SUPERFLUOUS HAIR TREATMENT HYGIENIC smoothness. — MAIL ORDERS FILLED for all preparations and appliances on receipt of cheque. $5. $5.00. pendulous — MRS. discolored eyes to proper smoothness and fulness. GANESH EASTERN BALM SKIN FOOD $3. TIRED EYE TREATMENT restores tired. $1. $2. including the Strapping Muscle Treatment. originated. PARIS Cambo Cambon MIPP" ll*\_I-. are the antithesis of "make-up". restores lined. corners of eyes and over forehead.00. London.50. on looking sideways into our hand glass. $3. 75c.50. either that a gross ''double-chin" is beginning to form. with a line like a big wrinkle.50. WRITE FOR VALUABLE BOOK containing list of all GANESH Preparations and Treatments and much beauty information and advice.00. Electrolysis is almost painless. Adair exclusively. Rue Chauvain REGISTERED TRADE MARK Page 59 . Sometime we may be rudely awakened by finding. $2. Bottle. fills lows and removes wrinkles. and in consequence there are flabby. ph one G reeley 1 3475 Bond New St. sparkling eyes and a youthful contour.00. 75c. closes pores and alleviates skin flabbiness and puffiness under the eyes. GANESH DIABLE SKIN TONIC.

it restores tone to the flabby muscles. Creme de Luxe 505 Hours S a. be one of them and Let Me Give You a Sample lar ELLSWORTH COLLEGE 514 Permanent Bldg. N. but nothing has ever met with anything like the instant and entire success of the wonderful. R. in 2462 -J bags. Personal instructions by D.m. absorption of some of this fat takes place. rounded contour is maintained in all its attractiveness by the support afforded by the fat beneath it to the skin that lies smoothly over it like unwrinkled satin. 1V1<i to 6 p. Cleveland. "How to Retain and Restore Youthful Beauty of Face and Form. Buffalo. effective treatment called the Ganesh Strapping Muscle Treatment. yellow or blood-shot eyes are marvelously efficacious. FULTON Manicuring and Chiropody Room 604 Standard Bldg. MRS. Mrs. hanging on either side of the chin. Cleveland Recommended by N. hollows are formed in cheeks and temples. originators. sole • Ellsworth. and filling out hollows. Dr. and Mine. double chin and restoring a youthful contour. Your skin is not a dead thing to be left alone it is a sensative part of you. No woman need lose the shape of her features nor the grace of her figure if she practices the Ganesh Exercises and Treatment. Adair's methods of reducing superfluous flesh. adverse climates. There have been many treatments for the difficulties and for the cure of double chins. raises and gives back the youthful shape and appearance to the face. is All foot troublespermanently relieved by scientific corrections under supervision of a surgeon. 0. Stone's Shoe Store Send 12 cents sale all for sample.OH ^ > 1VIY FOOT .. Call owners of Ellsworth System. Adair at 21 West 38th them — St. 0. taught. from illness. it needs skillful. teachers and the DeLong's Cucumber and Almond Massage Cream Used and recommended by Cleveland's best people. MAUD 716 Permanent Bldg. In youth the soft. 0. exposed to heat and cold. of treating tired. Toledo. Y. Makes skin soft and velvety. scientific and constant care. But when. and the skin falls into lines and furrows. this even support of the muscles and skin is withdrawn. DeLONG SKALLA Dermatologist and Chiropodist Page 60 . of eliminating deep frown lines. 323 Euclid Ave.m. Beckman Bldg. 6U0 Madison Ave.. Ellsworth All Facial of College branches beauty science V. and loses its beauty of coloring. altogether altering the shape of the face and adding years to our age.. New York. For stores. Huron Bldg. to which so many women owe their rejuvenated appearance. Stone Prop.KJ y- ' _• Creme de Luxe a delightful preparation to use in Does not wear place of powder. for into place. Our everyare graduates where. removing lines." which you may have for the asking by mail or in person at the parlors of Mrs. or any other cause. off. which are so clearly and thoroughly explained in the interesting and instructive book.

24— Handkerchiefs. Large size bottle 25c at your dealers' money should itures supply your needs. 28—Jewelry. 30— Scarf. —Furs. 7 — Drawers. Ties. — Chemises. 6— Sanitary Belt. 26 Monarch Polish Not will fix it 29—Veils. 22— Millinery. —Sanitary Skirt Protector. accessories. especially if one is preparing their clothes in advance for the season or perhaps arranging for a trip or a visit or for some occasion where a rather complete outfit is needed. 1 2 3 "Never Mind. Standard Polish for 35 years. Below we give a list which will help you in planning and serve to remind you of the essentials of every woman's complete wardrobe. but in all of which restores the original brilliancy and lustre to furniture. Conno acid or injurious ingredients. 27 — Coats. —Hosiery. pianos. 0. 13 — Traveling or Street Gowns. when the subject of renewing their wardrobe presents itself. 21 — Aprons. 10— Petticoats. 8 — Brassieres. — numerous mention. 20— Housekeeping Gowns. 25 — Collars. Mamma" 4 5 11 14 19— Bath Robe. Page 61 . — Union Suits. 15 — Dinner Gowns. 9 — Corsets. 12— Shoes. 17 — Negligee Gowns. Belts. Added too to these are the numberless trifles to tains a varnish dries instantly. hardwood finish and hard- Polishes and wood floors. — Corset Covers. & CO. Cleveland. 18— Kimona.THE WARDROBE. — Evening Gowns. 23 — Hair Dress. 16— House Gowns. Often one does not know when to begin. and least 10 per cent of your entire appropriation for incidental be reserved expend- BAIRD BROS. must be considered case an incidental cost in you to are planning all on just so much at A few drops on your dustcloth does the work. — Night Gowns.

you are unable to procure it from your dealer. B. Sizes of Belts are actual waist measure. Ladies Improved Sanitary Belt and we have found no better on the market. If sizes 22 inches to 48 inches inclusive. your article in — not fit perfectly. that There is one small as article no woman should be they without but they either belt Sanitary Belt." High Grade Elastic Ladies' Improved Sanitary Side. of fastening and your outfit not complete without a belt of this have carefully examined the W. for unless your corset fits your individual figure. and that is a are most unwill unless properly constructed not stay clasped or will not hold the napkins in place. inclusive. N. We at all times recommend the Berthe May "Hygie" corset as we find its hygienic and physical advantages cannot be disputed. carefully made garment look its best. send us his name and 25c for sample belt. there are satisfactory.&N. E. heart In other words it will allow one to dress according to the and stomach. At All Dealers "W. gown will (C) SANITARY BELTS. neither will the most expensive. are but few more ruinous habits than the use of safety pins and is There improvised methods character.(A) CORSETS. like many other corsets do. as it does not constrict the waist and is designed and cut on the idea of supporting the abdomen. Order large enough to drop well down over hips. POSTPAID. your entire wardrobe that should be given more There is no the grace of your careful attention than your corsets. in fact the foundation of your entire appearance to say nothing of your health and comfort lies in the well fitting corset. the same as with any ordinary corset. but a well made can not only be worn with comfort but can be easily adjusted and will prove secure. New York City Page 62 . & N. lungs. Wright & Sons Co. So much depends upon this one point. that the choice and judgement of the most experienced corsetiere should be consulted.. Webbing at Front and Back Wm. it allows entire freedom and full expansion to the chest. and while supporting the bust. Dept. but without the torture. many makeshifts on they are the market. for the fit of your gown carriage. latest styles. to 48 ins. — We A Standard Pattern with our improved "Never-Slip Clasp" ( Patent Applied For ) Requires No Safety Pin Easily Adjusted in sizes Absolutely Secure Made 22 ins. F Manufacturers For Comfort 40 Lispenard St. instead of pressing it down.

for one is never safe at certain times to wear their gowns and dainty underwear. If you get a good one you can wash unless a sure protection is afforded. and press it and always have it in perfect condition. have doubtless often realized. women. Always recogour United States. 1908 This garment and This article is fully protected Sanitary Skirt protector will be mailed to any address in the receipt of price the Upon Ama by patent. odorless. THE AMA Sanitary Skirt Protector Patented Sept. less Beware of worthimitations. 117 purchasing.00 each qualities. 22nd. fit and durability. as flexible as fine linen. but have never before been able to secure in an ideal form. The Ama Sanitary Skirt Protector has so many c salient featur. and theatrical The excellent material used guarantees its wearing is made in medium large size selling at Price 50c. For misses and business ladies in mode summer of ladies' attire or evening dress. made with lace net yoke affording perfect ventilation and can be readily laundered. O.00 and $2. It is absolutely waterproof. The Ama Sanitary Skirt Protector is an article especially desirable for the present dress. We recommend the skirt protector as one that will give entire satisfaction. nurss people it is almost indispensable. is every woman's wardrobe. sanitary skirt protector a necessity to A AMA PSmmfW^ An article every is *^&™ woman will of welcome market THERE now on the the needa ready-to-wear which you wardrobe acce:sory. $1. nize trademark before A1VIA CO.s that it cannot be ex elled for com ort.(C) SKIRT PROTECTORS. Call and let us demonstrate this article to you. Page 63 . tourists. nmde of a high grade white rubber muslin. CLARENCE BUILDING CLEVELAND.

. Many make these garments entirely by hand. Metal parts cannot rust. the street or traveling should be selected of one of the soft plain shapes with simple trimming. graceiul. on receipt of price. with so much pleasure at one's leisure time if handy with the needle. The night gown. New York Page 64 . 1/ not at dealers. but the majority of women Waist Cannot Be Displaced pyramid "Units" grip and keep waist from riding up. but great care should be used that the selection be one that exhibits taste. sent postpaid. gown as the waist There is nothing that ruins the entire appearance of a out of place above the belt line or perhaps showing a dividing line between the skirt band and the waist line. when wearing a waist that is separate from the skirt. No sharp points to hurt fingers. corset covers and drawers should be of dainty muslin or fine linen.. hat for business. S. Dept. Even though the edging and insertion be of fine lace or embroidery it will greatly add to the beauty of the garment to have at least a small floral design of hand work. held in by patented " loop. 15 E. Simple. both French and Domestic. practical. Price 15 Cents. feathers and flowers. Every careful dresser. CORNER SUPERIOR AND 105TH THE WARNER HAT SHOPPE considers it possible for every woman to have an Individual Style A Gift all Shop and Tea Room can be found Novelties in Art and Needle Work (D) MILLINERY. off into the their eye as to color (E) SHIRT WAIST SUPPORTERS. should wear a waist supporter in order that a good about the waist can always be relied upon. and if possible hand embroidered in any of the beautiful designs which can so easily be procured and done. elastic sides. refinement and a respect for the shape. but for church and theatre wear one A may branch more elaborate and trimmed effects and can satisfy and decoration of ribbons. great improvement over old style belts. chemise. effect There is no better (F) LINGERIE. Little rubber The "LOOP-HOLD" Shirtwaist BELT corrects a common fault in dress. Self-acting buckle stays put.ARBORj TEA SHOP Earner flat ^oppe where 6541 Euclid Avenue Exclusive Models in Dress and Tailored Hats. Price 15 Cents at Department Stores AGENTS WANTED DAVID BASCH. 17th St. style and setting of one's face and features. Pat'ee &Mfr. skirt supporter on the market than is shown below." take double hold without undue pressure. at back.

be a cloth a rain-proof fabric of "Cravenette" proof is a process which The process permeates every fibre renders a cloth or garment water-proof. rendering the cloth permanently rain-proof, and rain will then of the yarns, You can have your coat, suit, wrap, or neither wet nor spot the garment. motoring garments made from the Priestley Cravenette Cloths, and you will If you are obliged to be out in all kinds of find your needs perfectly met. weather, rain or shine, you should by all means have a "Cravenette" rain-coat. We specify "Cravenette," because a genuine Cravenette-proof coat contains no rubber, is porous to air, yet rain-proof and has not the disagreeable odor common to most raincoats, and too, there is not the stiffness of the material, which renders many of the rain coats so undesirable and unattractive. The Cravenette-proof process leaves the cloth just as supple as before and every The main point to bear in fibre of the yarns is made thoroughly rain-proof. mind is to get a rain-coat that is strictly hygienic, keeping the dampness out without preventing ventilation. However, if you are only out in an occasional sprinkle or shower, a rain-coat is unnecessary, but you should have a street

(G) RAINCOATS AND people imagine Cravenette some sort but such is not the case.



or business or traveling suit



any of the Priestley cloths of serviceable

and wearable mohair suitings, serge, chevoit, whipcord, etta, which you can get "Cravenette" proof.




to Tell

This circular

registered trademark

Silk y^^y^pti^^fiyci^ Labe


stamped on the inside and a sewed at the collar or elsewhere.

None Genuine Without Them
The )££L~,.

applied to many kinds of cloth suitable for outer garchildren's men's, women's and ments in light, medium and heavy weights for seasons of the year, and are for wear in rain or shine.

" Rain Will Neither

Wet Nor Spot Them."

They con t ain no Rubber, have no

disagreeable odor; will not overheat or cause perspiration.

For sale by leading dealers in Men's, Women's and Children's Clothing.

t^Q^/ft2^t§#., Lt4
Bradford, England

Hoboken, New Jersey

postal to the

Bradford, England

New York

office of

B. Priestley


Co., 100 Fifth Avenue, will bring interesting booklet.



is all

right in


place, but



annoyance, and more than that, when it gets on goods that you are anxious to keep clean. The oil cup on the White Rotary prevents all trouble of the kind. It's a trifle, but

by attention to the little things that make the White Rotary the very best machine you can buy. Our terms will surprise you by their
it is


White Sewing Machine Go.
426 Prospect Ave.


Lesson 78.— CORSET







nainsook, muslin, sheer lawn, linen, or any thin fine material.
tucks (Lesson 54). Join seams with French seam (Lesson 47).


Hem Hem


peplem and


Gather at waist line son 64). Finish neck and armholes with embroidery scallops (Lesson 22), or face on right side with very fine embroidery. See Lesson 53.) Embroider any desired design (Lessons 19-25 inclusive). Make eyelets and run in ribbon to hold in fullness (Lesson 25). Close with small buttons and buttonholes (Lessons 29-30).

(Lesson 65). and make band of goods or of beading for belt (Les-



Cut out (Lesson


Join with either plain or French seams.

(See Lessons 41 and 47.)

Face both sides of opening (Lesson Face around top for belt (Lesson
Put on




Make buttonholes (Lesson 27). Sew on buttons (Lesson 30).

Page 66

have not the time to put so much personal labor on their wardrobe, but the character of a woman is more easily discerned by the daintiness, prettiness and completeness of her lingerie, than by the beauty or elaborateness of her best gowns.
In France, a bride has never less than 12 pieces of each article of underwear beautifully done by hand work and exhibited with great pride to all her

buying and making these garments that your lingerie with care will last for many years to come, and you can afford to put more time and expense on them than on your outside garments that change style, color and design to suit every whim and caprice of fashion.



Lesson 80.— CHEMISE. Procure a good chemise pattern and make exactly as instructed in (Lesson 79), on the making of night gowns.
Lesson 81.— NIGHT GOWN. Cut out (Lesson 76). Join with dainty French seam (Lesson Embroider neck and edge of sleeves (Lesson 22), or fact on the right side with any desired trimming of embroidery or lace fine (Lesson 53). Embroider desired design. (See Lessons 19 to 25 inclusive).


Make eyelets (Lesson 25) neck, and draw about through ribbon to adjust




Lesson 82.— COMBINATION UNDERGARMENTS. Cut out (Lesson 76). Fit carefully (Lesson 77). Join all seams with French seams (Lesson 47). Set in yoke (Lesson 65). Put on beading and edging (Lesson 57). Sew on ruffle (Lesson 56). If for open drawers face both sides of opening (Lesson 53). Close with small buttons and buttonholes (Lesson


Page 67

for it is the dainty feminine expression of lingerie and negligee garments that expresses the refined womanly tastes and will prove of pleasure to you so long as they last. Face upper edge of the garment (see Lesson 53). challie. heatherbloom or even a good quality of sateen is preferable. silk. Face top (Lesson 53). fleece lined goods. and where the fullness commences make a slit on each side and insert a tape.Lesson 83. lawns. Sew on buttons (Lesson 30). house and evening gowns. The material can be of large figured silk. soft flannels or in fact almost any pretty Have your negligee gowns as attractive as your skill fabric may be used. but have them made the proper length to wear with your For your sireet. Make buttonholes (Lesson 29). Have plenty of white skirts plain or elaborate to match your other lingerie of your outfit.— PETTICOATS. Page 68 . drawing it through the slit on the opposite side. Stitch the facing down securely. East 135 1738 East 55th Street Cut out (Lesson 76). GUI Chapel in Connection Jay P. Parrish Funeral Director Bell Phone. and means will permit. Join ruffle (Lesson 56). The slit should be carefully worked with the button hole stitch (Lesson 24). dimities.— SKIRTS AND UNDERWEAR WITHOUT PLACKET. Hem (Lesson 48). DRESSING SACQUES AND KIMONAS. Join seams (Lesson 41). business and traveling gowns. QBE Lesson 84.


not go to the



Kimonas and Art Laces"
Call At
before buying ?

and Save

150 The Arcade
See Our Beautiful Designs and Get Our Low Prices

Lesson 85.— DRESSING
Cut out (Lesson


Lay Sew

pleat in back.



bottom (Lesson

Gather on


Face collar (Lesson

elbow and shirr around

waist (Lesson 55), and finish with dainty
of bright ribbon at the waist.



Lesson 86.— KIM ON A.

Cut out (Lesson




seams on machine.


bottom of garment (Lesson

Make yoke and attach (Lesson 65). Make sleeves and put in (Lesson



Face edges and sleeves (Lesson



facing should be of satin or



ing shade of the same or a lighter material.

-page 4-

overlook the


scientific drugless treatment


Page 69

Lesson 87.—APRONS.

Aprons are the simplest of all garments to make, No. 3857 is especially easy to make. Cut out goods (Lesson 76). Face all edges (Lesson 53). Make pocket (Lesson 73)." Make one buttonhole and sew on button (Lessons 29-30).

No. 3180 requires a little more time and effort. Cut out (Lesson 76). If embroidery for ruffle, bib and pockets is not used hem ruffle (Lesson 48). Face bib and pockets (Lesson

Put on ruffle (Lesson 56). Put on pockets (Lesson 73). Gather and join bib to skirt of

Put on band (Lesson 64).


Is This the

Condition of

Your Nerves?

Is that the condition of your nerves? If so, your system is just like the violin shown above; utterly unable to perform the work for which it was intended. Until there is an improvement in these conditions, there is no chance for harmonious action between the various organs of the body. The office of the nervous system is to control and direct the vital forces. If the nerves are not strong, healthy and in proper tone they cannot do this work any more than can the violin give forth sweet and melodious music when "all unstrung."

You Do Not Need



a Nerve STIMULANT, But a NERVE Food. a Nerve Food and Strength Builder.

At the same prepared especially to build up and strengthen the nervous system. time it purifies the blood and regulates the circulation, so that the nerve centers may distribute the vital forces to the organs in need. If you'are only slightly nervous, you ought to take ZOA-PHORA at once and thus thwart the onward march of the disease. If your nerves are already in such a shattered condition that they are threatened with nervous prostration, ZOA-PHORA will give you relief and strengthen your nervous system.

Read Page

95 for the Special



Page 70

Lesson 88.— LINGERIE WAIST. Choose your pattern and
follow the instructions of






making by

selecting the

desired design and effect and mak-

ing according to
Sleeves, Lesson 69 or 70.
Collars, Lessons 66, 67 and 68. Yoke, Lesson 65. Trimmings and Finish, Lessons 54, 57, 58 and 62. If a Lining is desired make according to Lessons 76 and 77.


Lesson 89.— HOUSE KEEPING GOWNS. Your house keeping gowns should be of percale or gingham or some wash goods so that at all times you can be immaculately clean. Have them made plain and simple so they can be easily gotten into and also have your aprons large, and of a material that washes neatly. Use instructions (Lesson 76), taking steps according to numbers; X-l, X-5, X-7, X-8, X-9, X-15. Then put on facing about sleeves, neck and down front and belt (Lesson 53). Now hem skirt (Lesson 48). Sew on buttons and make buttonholes (Lessons


Easy to Pay the Rosenblum Way"

For Man,
or Child



pays the bill

We Make Good Unsatisfactory Purchases We Never Misrepresent

M. Rosenblum

Credit Clothing Co.

2014 Ontario St. Cor.^hamplain
Mr. Rosenblum Himself



& Pacific Tea Company's Store 2165 Ontario Street. Skhts. — — — — — — Hem the underside of the front closing. Suits. Hundreds of are added to our already large patronage every is There We We is a Reason — High Rent District. do not handle any premiums nor give trading stamps (the customer.00 a Week Payments Complete furnishers — Hats. Jewelry. 3 Fit and make any necessary alterations (Lesson 77).There Must Be a Reason Why our business new customers month. Dresses. The quality of our merchandise is the best and our guarantee of absolute satisare not in the faction is given with every sale. 6—Make sleeves and attach (Lesson 70). Upstairs Lesson 90. growing by leaps and bounds. 2 Join with plain seams (Lesson 41). Our operating expenses are low. —We will give directions for making gown 4533 as contains nearly every element and requires the explanation of nearly all points of dressmaking. 9 Lesson it 91. — GOWNS. Coats. you cannot fail to develop your Page 72 . 4 Form box pleat in right front. Shoes. 8 Make collar (Lesson 66). — Gather at waist 5 7 line in and attach a belt or stitch bias band to hold gathers secure. turning to the specific lesson as indicated. All Goods Sold on $1. and stitch on both sides of pleat. We do not have any collectors. etc. By following these instructions carefully and faithfully. pays for both at all stores where they give them). front and back. — — Make buttonholes and sew on buttons (Lesson 29-30).—A shirt waist is something it seems no one has too many of they are so useful and so necessary for so many occasions and can be constructed of such a variety of fabrics and in such a wide range of styles. of course. 1 Cut (Lesson 76). and leave collar loose. Waists. and attach or put on neck band (Lesson 64).— SHIRT WAIST. CLEVELAND CREDIT CLOTHING Over Atlantic CO.

Ptawi 3fttBtrufitum .

tasty dishes described in PICTORIAL REVIEW'S COOKING DEPARTMENT. plain. She is looking for more information constantly and PICTORIAL furnishes that knowledge.. You had better subscribe now and find out about our magazine and our patterns. marketing. etc. believe that the real American woman does not consider "home" to be just the house in which she lives. in the politics which make taxes high and her rent accordingly higher. REVIEW The Pictorial Chicago Paris Review Company St.. With these departments before you a magazine devoted wholly to housekeeping is a needless extravagance. find that she considers "home" to be the city. 39th NEW YORK Page 74 . housekeeping. For To be Dressed Styles in the Latest Fashion Select Your from the Season's Number The PICTORIAL REVIEW FASHION BOOK For sale by The May Costs only 5c When Purchased with a 15c pattern For sale by Co. its ideas will save much more than the cost of the magazine for a year. in life insurance which cares for her REVIEW We We when the bread-winner is suddenly taken away. New York London Headquarters: Louis Berlin San Francisco Vienna St. a necessity in every home. They make the so-called "fiction-magazine" unnecessary. special articles in PICTORIAL are on subjects of interest to women.16 17 — Face bottom of skirt (Lesson —Sew on hooks and eyes (Lesson 53). and in many other subjects which are of vital importance to her daily living. She is very properly interested in the schools which her children shall attend. state and nation in which she lives. If you wish to please your husband's palate just give him some of the good. departments on cooking. The household departments in PICTORIAL REVIEW. PICTORIAL REVIEW is "The Magazine for Women. making as low or as high cut gown as desired. 59). home decoration. are written by experts and their information is practical and daily useful." It covers every range of woman's activity completely. The up-to-date American housewife is a thinking woman. The May Co. The fiction stories in PICTORIAL RE- VIEW The are equal to the very best you can get anywhere. Charming Lingerie Frocks Smart Street Toilettes Afternoon Dresses in Foulards and Taffetas New and Fascinating Evening Gowns An Alluring Assortment of Lace Blouses in the New Casaque and Peplum Styles The PICTORIAL REVIEW is not wholly a fashion magazine although it carries more and better styles than any fashion magazine published. materia! Any ornamentation suitable to the occasion to be worn may be used. It is Its suggestions. 222-224-226 W. In short. and in harmony with the an evening gown the upper portion of both lining and material of the waist can be cut away.

Every wardrobe should hold as many evening gowns as the individual will have need of. Select carefully your materials with a view of perfect keeping with social demands and associates. but for younger women prettiness and daintiness and attractiveness should be the aim rather than richness. or as magnificent as her station in life demands.—EVENING AND DINNER GOWNS.Lesson 92. elegance or elaborateness. yet sometimes the other extreme is met. Main . for a season 30. as often too elegant evening gowns lie your unused and unenjoyed. . when the same amount of money expended in two or three simple evening frocks would have constantly served to the pleasure and needs. Phones 4598 Central 1379-W . except the breteile is crossed in the front instead of the back. and the panel is used instead of the — GOWN — all-over flounce. and a number of cheap inappropriate useless garments purchased when one good garment of a more suitable nature would have been a better investment. 'Make exactly according to Lesson 91. Lesson 93. and they should be as simple. For making see Lesson 91.

Boarding Home Transient Accommodations Employment Bureau Travelers' Aid .

it will be a good lesson and example to study Grean ready made and tailor- made make coat front foundation. them in medium weight variety to suit tailor suit. in and renders it unfit to be used your garment. must have more in it than an ordinary piece of canvas without preliminary preparations of careful sponging and shrinking. You requirements. you will find a Grean patented Shoulder form. all heavy winter selves. which is usually nothing but glue. gether and some tailors use fronts of canvas prepared separately to fit the outside. 50c to $1. Tailor-Made Coat Fronts Foundations are distinguished by their beautiful shaping and tailoring and every season the shapes change according to the prevailing To those who have found difficulty in making coat fronts for themfashions.. There are several methods of making jackets and coats. These tailor-made coat front foundations are made in different weights and lengths. They in are a made variety upsuit to-date styles to different coats. but a tailored made coat front. and at the top. are protected with a white linen stay. in the shoulder. 327-329 E. which can be purchased for much less than one can Accept no imitations or substitutes. but it is also part of a pattern by which one can be safely guided.00 GREAN SHOULDER FORM & PAD CO. The foundation for the front of your coat or jacket is very important.— CLOAKS AND SUIT JACKETS. but well tailored and firm enough to support and retain shape permanently.. from the short Eton coat to a 32 inch length coat so much worn now. a wide button hole stay runs the whole length of the coat. If your dealer cannot supply you write us immediately. They are made of the best material appropriate for this purpose and are thoroughly sponged and shrunk. New York Page 77 . you will notice that it is It is not only a foundation over a complete coat front. but the difference Some tailors sew cloth and canvas tolies chiefly in preparing the fronts. They are all very soft and pliable. will find coat. The present styles demand soft coat fronts. which the cloth is placed. but you can detect cheap worthless coat front foundations by their stiffness. made of white French felt and edges of the best herringbone hair-cloth used for center stiffening. "Tailor. themself. to will make find a Those who are unable good tailor made front Grean's Tailor Made Coat for Front Foundations to be almost a necessity. for a tailormade coat or jacket.Lesson 96. A good sized arm-pad surrounding. 34th St. from the lightest silks to the heaviest automobile garments. lightweight silk or velvet Grean suits and fur garments.Made' ' Coat Front Foundation By examining the drawing alongside which shows the inside view of the Grean Tailor-Made Coat Front Foundation.

— 8 Baste goods over lining and try on and fit perfectly (Lesson 77). 16—The trimmings can then be sewed on. There is 4 — Lay on goods (Lesson 76— to — Cut out lining (Lesson 76— 3 — Baste up lining seams (Lesson — Fit and make necessary alterations (Lesson —'Cut outside material (Lesson 76—6-11). 5 Short Coat-Fronts Short Coat Front. 35 to 50c 50c lost its original shape. write us. above directions you will be able to work out a well fitting. No work or stitches should be left visible on the lining. out and attach with very small slant stitches (Lesson 12 cover the seam. nicely finished garment and the saving of doing this work yourself will allow you to put extra money into a better grade of material than otherwise you could choose or you can practically buy the goods for another suit. all 77).no more particular work in dressmaking than the proper tailoring of a jacket or coat and you should never attempt to make one of these garments in a hurry. GREAN SHOULDER FORM & PAD 6 CO. 327-329 East 34th St. 3). 7 Join seams of lining. IS — Again press the entire garment.. beautifully shaped and used in either short coats or long coats where only bust reinforcing is necessary and If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealer's. 1 1 5). 10 11 — — — Make and put pocket — Put in lining right side in 5). and press seams open. We will supply you direct or through a reliable used in garments where a coat front of canvas has been already used but has is extensively altering dealer and send you a catalogue of other dressmaking helps. 2 5). in. 14 — Make sleeves (Lesson 72). sew up seams in desired manner (Lesson 41). NEW YORK — Baste ready in these bust forms of hair cloth or soft canvas. 9 When an exact fit has been obtained detach from lining. (Lesson 73). and press (Lesson 75). in any style or manner desired. press and sew turning in the lining to 13 — Make collar and attach (Lesson 67). strict attention to the By paying Page 78 . made of Hair-Cloth. —Make buttons and buttonholes (Lessons 29 and 30). for much of the beauty of the coat or cloak depends upon this part. You can purchase made at any of our advertisers carrying Grean dressmaking supplies.

P^t^£L. MICHIGAN. CHAPTER XIII. must be given the matter of corsets and the lining of the gowns. 50 CENTS. They contain Nerve Tonics ANTISEPTIC which are absorbed into the Blood and VITALIZING COHES Give Vitality to the Whole System.ZOA-PHORA Antiseptic Vitalizing CONES Are for local treatment and are antiseptic in their action on Diseased Tis- sue and Unhealthy Conditions. but the comfort of the individual to a large extent depends upon these two things.. MATERNITY OUTFIT. L able and effective. Ten days' treatment will convince you that no matter how serious your condition a positive relief Sample free upon request. The herself outfit an expectant mother prepares for entirely depends upon what her duties all require of her during this period. Proprietors. as not only the appearance. The Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing KALAMAZOO. The Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones have in the past years permanently relieved thousands upon thousands of women and the price of a month's treatment for 50 cents makes them within the reach of all. safe. ZOA-PHORA CO. They allay Inflammation and heal the irri71. Read on the last page of this book your druggist' special offer to you of a free ten days' treatment of these Cones. has been found. Page 79 . a tated parts. Beware of dangerous imitations that contain mineral and poisons and which have'no established fifty reputation. ^6. but in in- stances the clothing must be loose and comfortable and both the dress and underwear should be Special attento supported tion from the shoulders. reliPRICE. Cones are a female suppository.

The most celebrated maternity corset that has come to our notice is the Berthe May "Lucine" corset. to deport herself with the greatest comfort. Mfr. in a normal condition. together with photographic reproductions and full information. which can be opened successively when more room is needed. and upon examination and investigation we find that the "Lucine" corset is so constructed that it can be worn as early as wanted. It is manufactured to be an absolute safeguard against all accidents for the mother as well as for the child. Every woman should have this corset in her wardrobe. Orders by mail filled with absolute satisfaction because of my perfect yet simple measurement system. on account of the healthy support which it gives both the abdomen and to the back. through a system of inside plaits of the material. the same as an ordinary corset. expectant mother should go without a corset. and yet with its own particular advantages. 15 Which will b. and to attend to her customary vocation during the whole term of her pregnancy. BERTHE MAY. to preserve a normal appearance. Physicians use it in their own families aud prescribe it to their patients. Prices from $5... No — Page 80 . thanks to its exclusive and It procures an absolute simple system of gradual enlargement. 10 E. as it can be worn at any time. as her own health and that of her child would be materially injured by such a course. to be used whenever needed. New York (98)— MATERNITY CORSETS.00 to $18. enables women to dress as usual. The Lucine corset can be made gradually larger when wanted. 46th St. thus affording the comfort and safety so necessary in a weakened condition of the abdomen. and allows the mother to dress as usual. sent under plain envelope. as well as during the maternity period. A maternity corset must combine as an abdominal support and a corset in fact it must be a protection to the abdominal walls against too great relaxation and yet must serve to give grace to the figure and to make it possible for her to go about and be active during the entire period.BERTHE MAY'S Maternity Corset The only corset of this kind made for its own purpose. but she should never wear the ordinary style and cut.00 Write for free booklet No. to preserve a normal appearance and to attend to their every -day vocations. and it can be reduced to a normal size and worn as long as desired after the child is born. abdominal support at all times.

except the lining is finished altogether differently. Proprietors.Lesson 99. The opening down is the front shoulder is hemmed back. easy stretching elastic band is used for the belt. but it is seamed and faced and finished the same as given in the regular lesson on It should have a good sized pleat at each seam. falls is eyelets (Lesson 25) on both sides of all three openings. Cleveland's best Toledo. maternity skirt is cut after a special maternity skirt pattern. See instructions (Lesson 76). necessary. make this gown perfectly. is arms where there but little Allowance must be made that enough goods left at the top of the skirt to extend the front and sides will as the figure demands in order that the skirt hang evenly all way around. and an extenskirt making. Instead of making starting in the usual way the lining has dart seams from the shoulder and the center of the neck.— MATERNITY SKIRT. MICHIGAN. reliable and satisfactory treatment.) QA~rt X REMEDY CO. and a very pliable. A IT /*phOHA (Trade Mark. how serious your case you will find the ZOA-PHORA PILE the one safe. 50 CENTS. See cut of lining at top of Fig. for making. list of of time and 50 cents for a full month's treatment well-known meritorious effective Remedy. and extending to the bottom of the waist lining.— MATERNITY GOWN.. Make lacing. Accept no substitute. tion at the top for lengthening front and sides. Sample sent FREE upon request. druggist today ana procure a month's treatment before your No matter disease becomes more deep seated and chronic. will forever convince you that to suffer with this disease is positively unGo to your Pull directions in each package. and the dart seams either side from the shoulder faced back (Lesson S3). The instructions found in Lesson 91. and lace down with linen or elastic The band from which rather loosely fitted is the front of the skirt from exactly under the necessity to enlarge. 3916. PRICE. REMEDY— known See page 96 for ZOA-PHORA REMEDIES COMPANY. Ohio full line of druggists who handle the Zoa-Phora Remedies Page 81 . Lesson 100. - Zoa-Phora Ten minutes of this Pile Remedy PILE ZOA-PHORA KALAMAZOO.

18— Corset waists. together with complete instructions for the making of them and if you are a wise girl you will begin with the first lesson of this book and master every point of plain and fancy needlework for it is one of the most refined acquirements possible for a gentlewoman to attain. Pengelly's pri- 13— Millinery. for during the pliable age. — Hosiery. — — Night gowns. We would recommend the Berthe May "Hebe" Corset. Do not make the mistake of going without sufficient underwear and of a quality to give you sufficient warmth and have all of your lingerie plain and dainty. To the girl after her who is away from home wardrobe we have made out a most useful in list or the one without a mother to look of necessary articles and you will find the list planning your wardrobe. 15 —Collars and ties. 6 7 — Petticoats. for every girl entering womanhood. 10 — Party dress. 1 vate prescription for women. purely a vegetable compound no alcohol.CHAPTER IV. 21 — Furs. suits. You will find on the following pages suggestions of appropriate styles for your gowns. 9 — Church dress. nervous. as it will give you all the beautiful curves and angles without the discomfort and danger of the modern corset. THE SCHOOL GIRL'S WARDROBE. 16 17 Read our Special Offer Page 96 of this Book. 8— School dress. — Shoes. enrich 4— Handkerchief s. sickly girls and women. by wearing a badly fitted corset. — Light warm woolen 2— Under vests. All of your garments should be simple and Page 82 . 19 — Sweater. belts and acces- sories. — Bath robes. opiates. build up the tissues^strengthen the nerves and put the entire constitution in harZoa-Phora is monious condition. Special attention should be paid to your corsets. 12— Hair ornaments. narcotics or other dangerous or harmful drugs. 4 5 Growing Girls For over 50 years Zoa-Phora has proven an invaluable remedy to meet the needs of weak. — House gown. Zoa-Phora is Dr. especially~compounded to purify and the blood. Get your shoes of sensible style and thickness and large enough to be comfortable regardless of the season or fashion. 11 —White petticoats. while you are growing you can seriously injure yourself and your health. — Combination corset 1 combination 3 covers and -WOMAN'S FRIEND FOR drawers. 20— Cloak.

Piano and Apply to the Junior and Industrial Mandolin Lessons Orchestra Practice Young Women's Christian ^Association Clubs Prospect Avenue and East 18th Membership Parties St. Follow instructions for (Lesson 89). Remember immaculate.girlish. made exactly on the same principle as a lady's dress. whose youth and its natural qualities need no artificial adornment. the material if embroidery omit omit Xll. 32nd Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister Choral Classes Bible Classes Page 83 . Follow instructions for making as found in LesGirl's dresses are The son style 91. whose natural charms are beginning to wane. sensible. shown is one widely approved of and very popular for graduating.— Make has exactly according to Lesson 91. and if no lining X2— X6. omit- hemming. OHIO West Side Branch Franklin and W. Collar (Lesson 63). GIRL'S DRESSES. dainty garments will win for you a thousand fold more admiration than magnificent. — GIRLS SCHOOL shirt waist DRESS. CLEVELAND. and without collar Lesson 101. edge. gorgeous effects suitable for the stage or at best for older women. Lesson 102. as nothing is more unattractive than rich elegant garments worn by a sweet faced girl. party and summer dresses. Skirt (Lesson 95).— ting GOWN if 3911.

— CHILDREN'S DRESSES. percales. Every mother desires to see her little this requires 12 oz. At Druggists. repps. 5 oz. Especially pre- sewing where an economical wife and mother can save to more advantage than in by doing the work herself the making of the children's clothes. Page 84 . ones daintily dressed and Lickes Drug Co. 50 cts. Lesson 104. Shortens and lightens the disease. $1. Cleveland. and linens..00. severe Coughs. ginghams. pared for Whooping Cough. every instance possible should be of wash etc. Used in Cleveland Orphan Asylums 20 years. bot. Quickly cures Croup. The main goods such as point in planning children's garments in is to have them as plain and appropriate as possible. Colds. so that It is can be kept perfectly hardly economical to make boys clothing after they leave the "Buster Brown" period. M'f 'rs. so we do not take up space in giving this instruction. 56). There is perhaps no department of WHOOPING COUGH DUNHAM'S SPECIFIC. plain (Lesson 41). Make 54). either 47). Prevents bronchial diseases. collar 68). flannel. O. novelty goods or any warm material must be worn. Hem Close (Lesson with dainty buttons and small button- holes (Lessons 29-30). clean. seams. but in the winter either underwear heavy enough to fully protect the child from the cold must be provided or woolen dresses of serge. all tucks in goods before cutting (Lesson Cut (Lesson Close 76). bot. In the latter instance the guimpe or sleeves it and yoke should always be of wash goods.. poplins. piques. or French seams (Lesson Make Make Make ruffles and attach (Lesson (Lesson 48). Physicians recommend it. sleeves and put in (Lesson 69). more labor and is care and expense than usually figured on.CHILDREN'S CLOTHES.

is The cape joined at may be lined or unlined and the neck. Face waist armholes. Lesson 106. 47).Lesson 105. and sew on buttons (Lesson Fasten up back with washable buttons. and make buttonholes or sew on loops of elastic cord. Put 64). French seams (Lesson neck.— CHILDREN'S WAISTS AND DRAWERS. A child's coat is made the after the same general instead principles as gown. S3). seam hidden by the facing 4483 Page 85 . band on drawers to (Lesson make buttonholes button on waist (Lesson 29). drawers (Lesson 48). is edging used overcast on neatly (Lesson 57). Cut out (Lesson Join 76). Sew line a bias band around waist 30). bottom of (Lesson Hem If . the of the collar. except shoulders a of ruffles over the cape if desired may be made.— CHILD'S COAT.

CHAPTER VII. (Lesson 64). six pair bootees. Put on collar (Lesson 68). infant's etc. especially one expecting for the first time. for they are a comfortable. and how many of each article to make. six night slips. INFANTS WARDROBE. Make pocket (Lesson Make belt 73). three wrappers. brush. — Every mother should with rompers. three petticoats petticoats (flannel). one veil. Cut (see Lesson 76). six bands. Gather at knees.BELLE VERNON MILK the Best Milk Lesson provide her 109. child and saves the mother much care and thought concerning his clothes. six bibs. one cap. pared: three (white). six pair hose. three sacks. sensible garment for the little one to play in. tal- cum powder. three dozen diapers. and if mother has the time to spare. one coat. so below we will give a list of absolutely nec- garments and articles together with an idea of about the number of each that the average expectant mother should have preessary Six dresses. comb and safety pins. Sew up straight seams (Lesson 41). three pinning blankets. To it ^3800 is the prospective mother. one diaper cover. usually a question as to just what they are to make. and a layout containing all necessary toilet articles. she usually prefers doing much of the work articles The Page 86 . one kimona. Make sleeves (Lesson 69). — ROMPERS. little necessary to a child's wardrobe are very simple and easy to make.

This treatment is a positive aid in maintaining a good condition of health during confinement.— MAKING THE INFANT'S OUTFIT. Hem bottom of skirt (Lesson 48). follow instructions for making child's PRINCESS SLIP. Sew up seams (Lessons 41 and 47). and made as daintily as possible.— The dress is made the same as instructed (Lesson 104) child's dress except very much longer. The little flannel jackets are made in one piece and the edges should be The night gown. (see Lesson 106). The coat. and a rapid recovery of natural health and strength afterward. Kimona (see Lesson 86). embroidered or neatly bound with pink or blue ribbon. the Mother's Health Should Be the First Consideration. CAN anything than PHORA Read the Special Offer as Given on Page 97 Ex pectant mothers can not afford to be without Woman's Friend Page 87 . gown (Lesson 104).Lesson 110. Cut (Lesson 76). of Birdseye linen or Canton flannel. be more vitally important that the organs of maternity of the mother be in a perfect state of health and strength to undergo this trying ordeal? The expectant mother should begin to take ZOAas soon as pregnancy is known from time to time as needed according to directions. A rubber diaper should be made for protection on occasions § when you are traveling or taking your child away from home. quick and easy delivery at birth. and should take regularly during the last month of confinement and for one or two months after birth. Sew on buttons (Lesson 30). Bibs should be of double thickness. While Preparing for the Coming of the Little One. The petticoat. or if lace or embroidery edging is not used you may feather stitch around the edge of the collar and down the front on either side of the buttonholes and many prefer to feather stitch the hem (see Lesson 18). Sew on lace or fine embroidery edging (Lesson 57). Hem back the fronts (Lesson 48). the edges turned in and finished with an edging of lace or feather stitched. but it should not be worn at all times as the ordinary waterproof diapers are not porous enough to let the air properly to the child's body. Make and attach collar (Lesson 68). both flannel and the dainty white ones are made under same instructions as Lesson 105. Diapers should be made of good cotton diaper cloth. cut square. Make buttonholes (Lesson 29). and neatly hem by hand. Make and put in sleeves (Lesson 69).

must always be given to the nature of the spot and the material. CUMMER'S SHOE DRESSINGS The Proper Dressing For EVERY Shoe Ask Your Shoeman Page 88 .CLEANING. for a process or chemical that removes the spot from one material will set the stain in or ruin another material.«m. The cleaning of clothes and accessories of the dress is often a problem. M i(.0»«> ENERGINE I 'SHOE OMOINATION DRESSING" GOOD AT ALL C STORES wuwmu moms cs i ei«n. You can do considerable for careful consideration mShT- ^!S>wb CLOTHES kept beautifully clean and in "crisp CUMMER'S Perfect (JAflVAS freshness" by every J^RESSING dainty housewife WITH CUMMER'S ffltCUMMEflPHODUCTSCO CltVEtAIO.

If the article is such that it can be boiled. woolen. then pour boiling water through the of perfectly — — — spot until the stain has entirely disappeared. Down Town Store 532 Euclid Avenue your own cleaning at home by using Cummer's Energine. soak the stain in salts of lemon. so the main point is to alcohol that removes the have your cloth well saturated with the alcohol. silk or cotton can most effectively be removed with Cummer's Energine full instructions for its use are found on the bottle. laces. and good laundry soap.THE UNIVERSAL DRY CLEANSING // it isn't CO. dip It is the a cotton cloth into the alcohol. Grass Stains: Must be removed with alcohol. then wash in tepid soap suds and proceed as lor removing blood stains. if the goods can be boiled. in which has been added a mixture of equal parts of "Elwako". kid gloves. We give you in these pages the addresses of first class establishments. silks. or if on heavier goods. or if the ink — — — — Page 89 . furs. where you can depend upon your work being properly done. Nevertheless you will need a few suggestions for removing the spots and clothes and which you may desire to stains that are so apt to get on your try to remove yourself. then wash in tepid soap suds and proceed as for blood stains. Coffee Stains:— Do not soak or put into soap suds until boiling water has been poured through the cloth until the stain is removed. or if on white goods. Grease Spots on any fabric. there are many garments your articles in good fresh condition. felts. If on thin goods pour out a little alcohol in a bowl and rub out the stain. and rinse thoroughly in clear tepid water. which will clean woolen goods. and Delivery Service. feathers and almost anything cleanable. if the stain is on a washable article. Fruit Stains: Follow directions as for removing coffee stains. it should then be put in very hot water. rubbing until the stain disappears. Cocoa Stains. stain and not the rubbing. "Universal Dry Cleansing" It isn't the best. Ink Spots: There are many ways of removing ink spots. Soak in cold water. and then rinse in ammonia water. then wash in sweet milk and rinse in clear tepid water. Boil from 20 to 30 minutes. Rub pure lard on stain and leave for a few hours. Then follow directions as for removing blood stains. General Offices and Laboratories \2\$ tO 1230 East 71st St. Auto Call Call Us Up —Phones. leathers. then rinse and wash carefully in tepid soap suds. and it should always be kept on hand to keep However. that must be otherwise your article may be returned to you ruined. salt or flour until you have absorbed all the ink possible. If the spot is still moist cover with sugar. Brass Stains. dry cleaned. and care should be taken to select a reliable place. Blood Stains: Soak the stains in cold water over night.

Scalds. Boils. soak the stain in this solution for half an hour. or rub out the spots in equal parts of turpentine and alcohol. than to attempt to do the work yourself. Bell Phone 2192 / [J Cleaners for Particular People Edd y r ^*^/S-r T s**n f^k C-5 Cuy. Blisters. or to a pint of water add one-fourth pound of sal soda. Chafes and Croup. and one ounce of chloride of lime. and then rinse in clear cold water. or oxalic acid until the ink has been removed. Or you may soak the stain in salts of lemon.Zoa-Phora Balm No Family Supply is Complete Without Known Ointment---within easy reach at this Well Diseases. Perspiration until the stain is — Stains: Sponge with a weak solution of hydrochloric acid. For Chapped or Cracked Hands. Rust Stains may be removed by soaking chloric acid a diluted solution of hydro- and rinsing in clear cold water. Machine will wash. Bruises. then wash gently in tepid soap in — suds and rinse in clear tepid water. Piles. Spots: — Rub out in kerosene and wash in tepid soap suds and rinse in clear tepid water. — Mildew: Soak in buttermilk spread on grass in sun. but as this is a very dangerous drug to work with it is usually better to send your garment to a cleaner. Burns. Catarrh and Colds in the Head. rinse in clear tepid water. or turpentine and ammonia. if Wash with cold water and a pure white soap. Rough Skin. Eruptions. — and Paint Spots: Rub with vaseline until paint is softened. all Children's Sore Throat. Insect Bites. then wash in benzine or gasoline. times Common Skin all i D rice Zjc rer oox Off D D • ALL FIRST CLASS DRUGGISTS will supply you has dried wash out the ink stains in the milk and rinse as above directed. Oil: for 24 hours. removed or the colors clear. Tea Stains: Vaseline — Follow directions for removing coffee stains. Cold on the Lungs. Iodine Stains can best be removed with chloroform. Phone Crest234 - W ump ^^ Z/^» ^§S3S3Rgg0r Page 90 Prompt Service We Call For and Deliver 13256 Euclid Avenue and 13430 Euclid Avenue . then wash in gasoline or benzine. if the material not rub wet borax over the spot and rinse in clear cold water. Scorch Marks can be effectively removed only by sunshine.

as it is The color of the impossible to dye a dark colored fabric a lighter color. so that it takes day to wear off. thus saving It is advisable. the goods may be put back in the same dye bath. before putting in the article to be dyed. There are in all which you are about to dye has nearly as much effect on the result as the dye you use. instances a few precautions in dyeing you must always follow. to put a small time and additional expense. ALL WORK GUARANTEED Fannie Hamlet. Phone. Snow Flake Hand Laundry The Cedar Cleaning Works Cleaning. Many old or shabby garments can be dyed and renovated and made over and months of service gotten from them. 90th Street Cleveland. where without dyeing they would be useless. without removing the article itself. Peacock Dyes are put up in collapsible tubes. Boil from one-half to three-quarters of an hour in a bath containing soap. Ohio DYEING. Prop. to see if the desired shade is obtained. and are much cleaner and dyes. the result will be a green. If. but keep them moving by stirring occasionally with a wooden stick. Unlike the old-time easier to handle than the old-fashioned dry powder whether it be of animal or dyes. you can use the same dye for any vegetable nature. table covers and various other articles may be dyed and brightened up. like many other dyes. it becomes discolored. 2336 E. and dyed a deeper shade. so that in case the desired shade is not obtained. do not throw away the solution until goods are dry. The best plan is to try a small piece of goods fabric first. Dyeing Fine Lingerie and Lace Curtains Specialties and Feather Work 2420 Cedar Ave. you have a yellow dress and use a blue dye. do not crowd the goods. appear as good as new and that at but a few cents of expense. when dyeing. same shade. This can be accomplished by boiling the goods. the probable result. so that it may be taken out from time to time. and see the result. Old and worn curtains.North 776 Cent. if cotton or silk. In taking goods from the dye bath. and do not stain the hands. They are easy and simple to use. changing the water when times. fabric. When several pieces are to be dyed put in the dye bath at the same time. 7420-R Doan 337-L Res. rugs. Page if necessary. it is always best to discharge or remove as much of the old color as possible. When dying. they should all be otherwise a variety of shades would be the In discharging or removing old colors from material that has been previously dyed. in fact making them in many cases. two or three 91 . for instance. Do not expect to dye a dark piece of goods a light shade. Princt 2906-L . piece of material in with the larger pieces.

Apple Green . Raffia. FULL DIRECTIONS ON EACH TUBE. old color come discharging when will not PEACOCK DYES For Home Dyeing THE ONE DYE FOR ALL FABRICS For dyeing Cotton. Chipped Straw.. Basketry. Rugs. By the use of Peacock Dyes in the household a great many old. making them appear as good as new. making them much easier and cleaner to handle than the old fashioned powder dyes. worn and shabby Clothes. as the newly dyed material the bright and uniform.When removing soften the wool. may be dyed. Linens. Curtains. Silks. etc. Peacock Dyes are put up in collapsible tubes. Tablecovers. Mixed Goods. etc. Wools. owing to article is put into the bath of some of new color. as of old color is it tends to The removal very important in dyeing articles out the that have been previously dyed. Feathers. color from wool. no soap should be used.

sufficient for four family washings. and restores all the original brilliancy of color without injury. send us Ten package from your Grocer. whether they be Table Linen. not gray or yellow. You must be most careful in this SETTLES THE WASH-DAY QUESTION NO LYE NO ACID WILL MAKE YOUR CLOTHES CLEAN*WHITE WITHOUT RUBBING SOLD BY GROCERS YOU SHOULD USE ELWAKO Because thousands of other women have in your weekly washing. In this present day of good laundries the hardest and most laborious part of the work can be sent away. Curtains or personal apparel. It contains no Lye or Acid. and that it makes white clothes WHITE. It is a scientific Washing Compound to be used in connection with any good Laundry Soap in accordance with directions printed on each package. a package of regular size. is not a Soap nor a Soap Powder. that articles washed with last twice as long as when rubbed. which does wonderful work. We also manufacture CARPET CLEANER. One 25 cent can will clean any common sized rug or carpet without rinsing or removing from the floor. and will not injure any fabric. yet there are always numberless small things. postpaid. or perhaps some pieces which one prizes very highly and one desires to have done at home. Cleveland. delicate texture or color. learned by practical experience that it saves the hard labor of rubbing and dispenses with the washboard. with full directions for using. Ask your grocer for it also. 0. E. S. If you are not now using it. ELWAKO Elwako Manufacturing Co. Bedding. or those ot a dainty.LAUNDERING. Page 93 .. get a If he does not keep it.. 1120 Prospect Ave. Cents in stamps and we will mail you. It is invaluable ELWAKO ELWAKO IN It is YOUR LAUNDRY WORK sold by most Grocers.

. the boiler with the clothes. Then always use a good laundry aid. Second. in perfect with great care. and it will make your clothes clean and whte with a Further. taking precautions to always keep the garment it form or you may render unsightly by ironing out of shape. bluing and good starch and if possible have your clothes hanged out of doors. wrung out of the cold water. least being sure that the corners are well fastened. North 975 Central 3280-W Prospect Avenue and East 14th Street A Particular Laundry for Particular People Cleveland Ohio Page 94 . line. are worse than worthless. blended. —Boil two tubs of tepid from 20 to 30 minutes and wrinse thoroughly through one or water and then through bluing water. being sure that nothing with if a color in it is put with the all-white clothes. sort the and wash the finer first. Seventh. where they can get the full benefit of the air and sun. — Sort over your clothes. for a badly laundered article is worthless to a particular or refined woman. as they will turn your clothes yellow and fade and cause the colors to run. but over night better. You should first see that remove the dirt and stains and germs without the unnecessary labor of rubbing. Fifth. acid or substance of any' kind which will injure the most delicate fabric. We suggest the use of "Elwako. and soak white pieces in cold water over night. that you get on bargain counters.— -Starch and hang on so the articles will not Sixth. water and roll —When —Iron dry. be careful to get good saving of labor.work. — Put fill one-half of this mixture into a washboiler containing very hot water and Fourth. for you can wear your articles out more by rubbing them over a rough washboard than you would wear them out in a week of almost constant service. sprinkle with tepid is tightly and leave for at one hour. you have a good laundry soap many of the cheaper soaps. and coarser from the finer you have a large number of pieces. one which will First. — Shave in soap together one small cake of Elwako and one bar of any good laundry three pints of water and boil and stir until they are thoroughly Third. time and wear on your clothing.'' as it positively contains no lye. blow about and tear or become stretched out of shape.

Mother. Zoa-Phora is a vegetable compound. does not make drunkards or a craving for stimulants. If compounded your druggist has no free box for you have him With the purchase of one Dollar-size bottle of Zoa-Phora the bearer is entitled to a full ten days' special treatment of the Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Cones which the Zoa-Phora Company are supplying the drug trade free of charge for this purpose. 7. relieved and cured the very worst forms of Female Trouble and ailments peculiar to women. are not afraid to publish to every woman and to every physician and to the whole world. Zoa-Phora begins at the seat of your trouble and builds up every part of your body. When you know what Zoa-Phora really is you will be convinced if you are suffering with any form of disease peculiar to women. give Zoa-Phora a chance to do its good work. It is indeed (Woman's Friend). Page 95 . write us. Zoa-Phora is one of the oldest reliable preparations on It has. or any dangerous or 5. Zoa-Phora is Nature's own restorative and cure. The following indisputable evidence will convince the most skeptical of the merits and value of Zoa-Phora. Our remedies are used by the thinking class of women throughout the United States and we are giving you a few reasons why you are safe in choosing Zoa-Phora in preference to all other remedies and why you are guaranteed satisfaction. Zoa-Phora does not contain minerals. Does not this prove that Zoa-Phora is beyond question all that it is claimed to be? Write today and we will send you a copy of its formula. No alcohol in it to Zoa-Phora is excite the nervous system and make you feel fine for a few hours and then leave you weak and exhausted. a satisfactory. Pengelly. plain. If you want to be cured. but Zoa-Phora is 2. just what Zoa-Phora is compounded of. — of diseases of the market for the treatment 50 years. and Grandmother find it the best woman's especially the sexual organism. rational. No opiates or narcotics to suddenly deaden your pain and in time ruin your nervous system. 8. Zoa-Phora contains only the best and purest Positively the best ingredients preparation. and given entire satisfaction. tonic to carry them safely through the various changes of womanhood. patent medicine— not some dope handed down by an the prescription of Dr. Wife. Zoa-Phora contains no alcohol positively not one drop is used. known to of drugs. opiates. Zoa-Phora 3. 4. narcotics. for nearly women. No expense is spared in modern medical science are used in its its Zoa-Phora is not a secret formula. composition. and you will then know to your own satisfaction and benefit just what Zoa-Phora really is. asked hundreds of times daily honest Before using a treatment a sensible woman wants to know what she is using she is perfectly justified in demanding an honest and straightforward answer. harmful drugs. — on the market." as do some of the cheap. It is manufactured only of the best and most valuable roots and herbs known to science. Maiden. inferior preparations Zoa-Phora is not an ordinary ignorant layman. one of the greatest Specialists of his age in the treatment of the diseases of women. We to cure. It does not make "drug fiends. therefore.— WHAT Is IS ZOA-PHORA? is Zoa-Phora" THIS question "What women seeking asked by intelligent reply. 1. In addition to the splendid tonic effects of Zoa-Phora many women need a good local treatment and in order to encourage the use of our Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones in all cases when needed we are making the following offer of a full Ten Days' Treatment of our Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones (further information on page 79 of this book). that you have found a treatment perfected to the limit of modern medical discovery. Present this coupon to your nearest druggist. 6.

FULLY WARwill be sent you by return mail. 18503 Detroit Avenue Go today to your nearest druggist and procure the remedies you need and send the faces from the packages direct to These beautiful teaspoons axe of the favorite Narcissus pattern.00 Cold Remedy La Grippe Remedy .50 . full line And in Lakewood and Detroit Avenue the of Zoa-Phora supplies can be procured from Lindsley Drug Co. 4706 Detroit Avenue Wilson Drug Co. 1 - Number Number Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Pile Zoa-Phora (Woman's Friend) 2 - $1.25 . 11600 Detroit Avenue Alford Crocker. fully warranted.50 Remedy - Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones Number Balm ----3 - .50 .. You can procure Zoa-Phora from every including the first class druggist in Cleveland.DEC 19 1912 One Set of Silver Teaspoons Free To Users of Zoa-Phora Send us the front of the carton or box from any one of the packages in each of three divisions below arranged and the full set of RANTED TEASPOONS \L SIX TRIPLE PLATED. OHIO .50 - - ..25 - Not One Cent to Pay for the Teaspoons Now or Later Send us the three wrappers or cartons as indicated above. best triple plated.25 .. etc. 16924 Detroit Avenue Dole. The Zoa-Phora Remedies 1803 Co. Standard Drug Stores Purity Drug Co. Adams Street Page 96 TOLEDO. 15621 Detroit Avenue Ludwig Pharmacy.25 Digestive Tablets Stomach and Liver Pills Anti-Constipation Pills - . Marshall Drug Stores The May Co. which means one Zoa-Phora (Woman's Friend) wrapper and your choice of any one of the remedies in Number Two and one from Number Three. and will wear a life time.


LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 080 524 5 .


LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 080 524 5 .

Sign up to vote on this title
UsefulNot useful