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in transparent envelopes. greatly improve appearance garment. Grean Shoulder Form and Pad 327-329 East 34th Street. silk *l DO. silk Corsica. 35 and 50 cents. cotton. guaranteed collar supports. write us.00 (CSS) Eton front. Money. "G" Co.. SI. 5 for 15 cents. (1) front for long coat. direct or through a reliable a catalogue oj other dressmaking helps. white your waist. Bray. lias hooks and eyes. B— Produce of any shoulder effect desired. boned with hasted seams ahove. back. 75c. for short coats. on new principle. Order by exact size of Linolawn. $3. pliable. chiffon. Carefully manufactured of best materials for correct tailoring of garments in prevailing styles. Black or white. (new). Designed for the trade and now sold in leading Dry Goods Stores everywhere. nor after hours of tiring effort obtain the perfect they insure. 15 cents a pair. A— Perfected. has Collar Support at If you cannotobtain GREAN SPECIALTIES We supply you dealer and send you will your dealer's. and the Professional Dressmaker. shaped. seamless belt. PRACTICAL HELPS FOR THE HOME or Made / . 3 for 10 cents. fills in usual hollows around overlapping padded points for shoulders. invisible. washable. New York Page 1 . 00. ready for draping. clever pad.. 75 cents. or lace waists on high. proof. 50 cents to $1. HEAVILY COVERED WITH PURE SILK FLOSS. Work and Worry almost finished lining for tight-fitting waists. 15 cents a pair. Use one or all and fit Coat Fronls \ Save Time.00. of thoroughly shrunken linen canvas reinforced with hair-cloth and felt.open front or hack. C— Tailor made. You cannot make anyone of these essentials for anywhere near the price. has hooks and eyes. D— "GREANET" InvisibleV&isi Foundaiion ] E— Perfect rust F— Very SilkCovered armhole. sealed to insure cleanliness. A loose-fitting net lining for light. Write Dept. white or black. very helpful in altering or reinforcing fronts. boned. not bust measurement.^ DRESSMAKING SPECIALTIES Without Shoulder Form Long ci loulder Ready] cms Made Pitied "Waist Lining EAL. or nlack percaline.50 to $4. if Money you are not satisfied.

— Couch Stitch 1 1. EmIS. 59.— Fagot Stitch 13.— Catch Stitch 12. 31. Make Buttonholes 20 — ery Embroidery — Setting on Lace or and Eyes — Sewing Hooks 27. 52.- 12 13 13 13 — Cording — Seams 42. (£. Chevrons.— Chain Stitch 9.— Blanket Stitch 24. 62. 49.... . 34.— Slant 6.— Welt Seam — Lapped Seam — French Seam — Hemming —To Hem Corners — Damask Hem 46. Page 21 21 21 .—Ruffles 26.— Solid Embroidery 21. and Overhanding 7 7. 35. 27 28 28 28 29 Copyright 1912 by Lydia Trattles Coates Page 2 .— Outline Stitch 8. 50. 14. 48. 32. 44.— PLAIN AND FANCY STITCHES.— Felled Seam — Bound Seam — Strap Seam 45. 23. 26. 4. — Knot —Running Stitch — Basting — Backstitch — Overcasting Stitch 6 6 7 7 7 33. Page 5 6 30.— Punch Work 16.— Seed Stitch 1 5. . Emblems and Monograms — Eyelets — —To and Eyelet Embroidery 14 16 16 16 16 17 17 18 54.— Long and Short Stitch 20. 60.— Feather Stitch 19. 3. . 22 22 23 24 24 24 24 24 24 24 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 51. 41.— Piping 40. 2.— Rolled 53.— French Knots 14. -WORKING INSTRUCTIONS.— INTRODUCTION 2.—Satin Stitch (French broidery) 8 37. — Facings — Gathering Hem 26 26 26 26 27 27 22.— Embroidery Scallops. 5. Lesson 1 . 47.'.— Cable Stitch 10.- 61.— Cross Stitch 18. Stays and Collar — Putting Supports — Marking of Linen and Underwear — Embroidery Designs in in .'. Lesson 29.— Hem Stitch 17. 8 8 9 10 10 10 11 11 11 43.—TO HOLD THE GOODS 3.— Milliner's Fold 39.'. 36. Cleveland. 57.'..— Tucks and Pleats 55.— Damask Stitch 16. Ohio CONTENTS 1. .- — Sewing on Buttons — Loops — Darning — Stoting — Patching — Overhand Patch" — Bands and Folds . 4.— Double Folds 38.. ". Sewing on Lace or Embroid58.— Shirring 56.— Button Hole Stitch 25.— Braiding 28. 27..IttHtntfittfltt —loral Beginners' Voices Carefully Built and Trained lira. GUjrato Nutnttan IpII Eaat 541 13TB East mtlf fctrwt COATES SEWING AND DRESS MAKING MANUAL Published by Coates Advertising Agency.

— Making of Dinner Gowns. 65. Costumes and Coats 77- 95. 93.—THE WELL GROOMED WOMAN. (A) — The Well Groomed Woman. — Children's 136.— Petticoats — Skirts and Underwear Without Plackets — Dressing Sacques (F) (G) " 78. —The Young Lady's Dresses — Maternity Outfit Wardrobe 9. Lesson 97.Inatruflton Expression Literature Interpretation Pantomime Harmonic Training Art of Play Writing and Criticism iFlomtrp Hartlja itaaett (Swr^r) Graduate of Harroff School of Expression. FOR 42 42 43 44 45 45 43- Kimonas 87.— NECESSARY (A) MAKING ACCESSORIES (B)—Threads (C)— Sewing Thread (D) (E) SEWING AND Page DRESS30 30 30 31 313431 33 — Sewing Machine (F)— Linings (G)— Patterns — Embroidery Thread Hooks and Eyes (H)— Tape (I)— Dress (J) 35 35 Shields 39- 36 37 —Dress Form —Dress Trimmings 6.— LAUNDERING 3 88 91 93 86 86 87 93 92 94 Page .. 86. 85.— Coat Sleeve 73.—Turn Down Collars 69.5410. Cleveland and Graduate of School of Expression. — Lesson — Fitting and Alterations.— Children's Underwear Outfit. — Street.— SCHOOL Lesson " " 14 101. Curry..— Pockets Traveling Skirts and Busi- 46 47 47 96.— SPONGING. 80. Boston Dr. Lesson Lesson 74.— INFANT'S OUTFIT Lesson — Making the Infant's " 107.. 89.— Girl's -Gowns 104.— Shirt Waists 91. 100. 72 74 75 75 7. 77.— FITTING AND ALTERATIONS. 16. and Shrinking 13. Cutting 53 —CHILDREN'S CLOTHES.— Dress 12.— High Collars 67. ness 72- 90. 110.. President Bell Doan 1369-R 9608 Hough Avenue CONTENTS 5. 82 83 83 84 85 85 .— CUTTING. —Boning 38 40 41 — Shirt Waist Supporter — Rain Coat and Waterproof Garments Lesson — Corset Covers — Drawers " — Chemise " 81. 94. Cuffs and Lap Closings 72. Lesson " " 102. 66. 82.— Night Gowns — Combination Undergarments. Page 64 65 66 66 67 67 67 68 68 68 69 70 71 71 84. 88. 79. 8. 99. 64. — Children's 105. 83.— CLEANING 17. (B) — Scientific Beauty Culture 5811.— Sleeves 70.— Girl's School Dress 103.— Tailored Collars 68.— Shirt Waist Sleeves 71.— Making of Gowns 92..— MILADY'S WORDROBE (A) — Corsets (B)— Sanitary Belts (C) — Sanitary Skirt Protectors. 57 58 60 61 61 62 63 64 64 —Rompers Coats 15.. SHRINKING ING.- —Jackets 76 76 78 79 80 81 81 PRESS50 50 51- — Sponging -Pressing 98. .— DYEING 18. — Maternity Corsets —Maternity Gowns — Maternity Skirts GIRLS' SUPPLIES.— Aprons — — Lingerie Waists — Housekeeping Gowns — Evening and Dinner Gowns. — AND 48 48 49 MATERNITY OUTFIT. 75. (D)— Millinery (E) — Lingerie 76.— COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS SPECIFIC WORK Lesson — Plackets —Belts and Bands —Yoke and Peplums (K) (L) 63.

A. Dr. (Domestic Cleaner) Swalley's Credit Store Telling Co. (Sanitary Protectors) American Textile Mfg. Pictoral Pictorial J. (Tape) Sons Co. Rosenblum Clothing Co Sanar Remedy Co (Attorneys at Law) Shop of Kimonas and Art Laces Skalla. Wright. David (Shirtwaist Belts) Battle Creek Sanitarium Food Co Belding Bros. (Peacock Carlton Monks.OXYDONOR "This wonderful little appliance. 337 Old Arcade INDEX TO ADVERTISERS Page Adair. & P. E. if you want pREE— Books on Health. H. Mrs. (Public Stenographer). Cleveland Credit Clothing Co Cleveland Dress Trimming Co College of Science (Acme) Connelly Co. Association 7. Mrs. F. (Dunham's Specific) Long. Sanche for the purpose of healing the sick. Abbie E. Ellen C. Wm. (Linings) Belle Vernon Dairy Co Berner's Art Store Boston Dry Goods Co B.. T. & C. Berthe (Corsets) 86 19 53 58 51 II May Co. Miller. (Woven Names) Reis Initial Co.. The C. Co. Ohio. B. Nervousness. Chester (Vocal Instruction).. (Embroidery Scallops) Reis Initial Co. Restaurant Co. 76. The May. (Sanitary Belt). (Dust Bright) 59 63 10 Page Hawley Restaurant Henke Furniture Co Hexter's Lining Store Ideal Faucet Syringe Co Interstate Drug Co. Pneumatic Form Co.. Oxydonor will do it. 69 63 16 76 91 15 8." Edward Rigby of Lisbon. E. Priestley. Mfg. Young Women's Zoa Phora Co Christian 57. Grean Shoulder Form and Pad Grean Dress Making Specialties Grean Long Coat Front Foundation Grean Short Coat Front Foundation Grean's "Greanet" Grean Fitted Waist Lining Grean Coat Collars Fassett. cures. but as and setting of the sun. (Ice Cream) Universal Dry Cleansing Co Victor Insect Exterminating Co 43 75 & Florence Martha (Expression) Frederick Piano Co Fries & Schuele Fulton. (Embroidery Catalog).. Main 730 Ohio Agency. C. (Wrinkle Eradicators) 64 26 61 64 5 84 64 52 80 40 56 56 33 2 5 31 8 34 25. Sanche's Oxydonor's and by the use of it as directed.. & Co Lawson School of Music Lickes Drug Co. (Manicuring and Chiropody). 68 9 72 41 46 54 37 11 Review Co.. Stroud. performs which border on miracles. (Morlene) Korach.. (Cravenette) 60 88 9 Dye) Dowd. Phone. even if all else has failed. 13. T. No. 95. Joseph. (Piano Instruction) 58 20 60 93 42 73 3 ' Co G. Hall. (Katharos) Ellsworth Public Hand Laundry Reis Initial Co. G.. (Energine Shoe Dressing) Devoe. Co. (Elwako Laundry Aid) Euclid Cafetiere (Lunch Club) Farr. (Monarch Polish) Basch. Co. & (Shino) (Dress Form) Co. Thus writes Are you suffering from Rheumatism. (Senora Coffee) 24 22 24 Wm. W. . (Fashion Book) B. (Sleeve Initials) Reis Initial Co. N. Mandarin. E. 29 21 34 23 12 17 7 Arbor Tea Shop Art Pleating Shoppe Baird Bros. (Real Estate) Conover. (Sewing Machine Supplies) Studio (Art Work) Cedar Cleaning Works Chandler. 31. infallible as the daily rising Investigate. ("Hair Vim") Snow Flake Laundry Shaver.. Mrs. 30. & C. Raynolds Co. 6 44 60 47 1 Vacuum 20 55 89 13 77 78 54 35 45 48 55 Grean Arm Pad Grean Fitted Belt Griffith Warner Hat Shoppe Warren Featherbone Co White Sewing Machine Co Wilson Dress Hook Co Wright.. & & Sons Co. E... (Naiad Dress Shield) Continental Casualty Co Creme de Luxe Cummer Products Co. Spinal Trouble... R.. Co. Miss L. M. etc. (Funeral Director). Margaret B. * Call or Send 10 Cents for Postage. Van Gorder (Havanco Mending Tissue) Haserot Co. Co. Diabetes. (Ganesh Toilet Preparation) A. L. (Embroidery Initials) 74 50 39 65 94 14 29 28 18 19 71 Richardson Silk Facial College Elwako Mfg. (Osteopathic Physician) Morehouse Co Noteman. F. invented by Dr. 4 P.. Co. The process is natural and very simple. (Sewing Silk) Belding Bros. Stomach Trouble. health. & Co. by all means secure one of Dr. Co.. Review Co. or are any of your family suffering from disease? If so. (Book and Art Exchange). (Embroidery Silk) Belding Bros. Co. Frank (Dentist) Electra Pure Water Co. Pioneer Mfg. H. Mrs. Co. you will be restored to health. Maud De Long (Dermatologist) Smith Carriage & Auto Co Smith Chemical Co.. ' . (Dentist) Bryson Co. 64 38 66 32 36 62 83 96 Page 4 . C. Ohio Office Furniture Co 91 5 Oxydonar Parrish. 55.

Many women go garments made or are forced to wear unbecoming. and hiding any possible defects of her contour or carriage will work as an artist. S. as the means of presenting to the world her ideal of thought. simple and comprehensible set of Sewing and Dress Making Lessons have been compiled without waste of words or unnecessary repetitions.. without as complete a wardrobe as they would like to have or pay out more money than they feel that they should spare to get . using herself as the model and her materials. Ohio 429 The Arcade North 1450 I. THE OHIO OFFICE Chandler Central 332 1-K Main 1368 FURNITURE Bell. LAXATIVE BRAN BISCUITS "The samples you gave do the work ine were delicious" BATTLE CREEK SANITARIUM FOOD Page 5 CO. 1145 Prospect Ave. On the other hand if they know just how to go ahead and have each step made plain for them to follow they could add many beautiful garments to To be sure much that is very helpful their wardrobe at a very small cost. INTRODUCTION. Thus dressmaking will become an Art and a Science and a pleasure instead of a nerveracking. but many women do not preserve these periodicals or have not the time to wade through all the other literature and sometimes a labyrinth of instructions to find out the system of properly cutting out and putting together and finishing a dress or suit or piece of underwear or perhaps doing up a piece of household sewing. For this reason this plain. etc. Quigley Desks Chairs Armor-Clad Steel Furniture Cuspidors and other Office Furniture Murphy & Gunlocke Miss L. Sewing is an art and the woman who clothes herself with an eye to bringing out the possibilities of her grace and beauty and best points of individuality. 111-112 Old Arcade . non-individual clothes simply because they do not know exactly how to cut and fit and make and finish the articles of their apparel and without complete instructions before them do not feel like risking the time and the material in experimenting. L. CO. has been written on the subject of sewing and many of our best magazines have given us invaluable information.. trimmings..Public Stenographer Duplicating Filing Devices Tables. Cleveland. laboritheir — ous piece of drudgery. We have made the system as brief and as easy as possible and by following faithfully the instructions and always turning to the lessons designated you will find that you have a reliable guide to the making of every essential garment for your wardrobe. E.

— RUNNING STITCH. Lesson 5.— stitches through the cloth should It will be of exact and equal length. Lesson 17. FREDERICK PIANO CO. crumble it nor yet so loosely that the stitches are taken unevenly. Basting Stitch. FANCY Lesson 1. hemming of fragile garments.. needle with proper sized thread and hold in Wind thread once over forefinger of right hand and pull tightly. . . -. The Lesson 2. TO HOLD THE GOODS. Lesson Stitch.oOOCNO''. leaving the right hand Never hold the work so as to crush and free with which to do the stitches. by backstitching (Lesson 4). The Proof of the Pudding is in the Eating The Proof of "Frederick Service" In the Trying is Every Record Every Victrola $15. CHAPTER PLAIN. (3) (4) Lesson Hemstitch.CHAPTER III. Try Our Superior Service Today.—Thread AND ORNAMENTAL STITCHES. gathering. be in constant use for seams on light etc.->. hold the work firmly in the left hand. IV. Knots should never be visible in any sewing except in basting. Always take stitch under the hem or seam to hide knot but in open space where this is not possible fasten thread by taking two or three stitches over each other or — KNOT. Sit up straight. and do not form the bad habit of pinning the work to your skirts and then humping over to do it or winding seams over the forefinger of your left hand. but learn and practice holding and doing your work properly and sitting erect. Always hold the goods in a position so the stitches are taken toward you. (1) (2) Slant Stitch. 3. F. French seams. W.. . 1612 EUCLID AVENUE Page 6 . materials. Running 2.$200 Sound Proof Demonstrating Parlors Experienced Salesmen. left hand.

— BACKSTITCH. Use Slant Stitch (see Lesson 5). This is one of the most particular lessons in sewing as every stitch must be exactly the same in height and distance apart. Lesson 4. Making Trade Class Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister Cooking fundamental principle of all good fitting and adjusting lies in the proper basting. Begin next stitch exactly where last stitch left off on upper side of sewing (see cut 1). Ohio All branches of Music and Dramatic Art taught in a thorough. Lay your cloth perfectly in place and then fasten by taking even or uneven running stitches through the material as in cut. CIk Cawson School of music and Other Tine 10507 Superior Avenue Cleveland. Lesson 6.—Take a few running stitches (see Lesson 2). handing are to have needle point at exact depth and be exact distance between each stitch.—The Lesson 5.— OVERCASTING AND OVERHANDING. Voice Culture of both the singing and speaking voice a specialty. From under side draw needle through cloth exact depth to be overcasted or overhanded and take stitch over and through twice to hold firmly. Beginners or Advanced Pupils Private or Class Lessons Day or Evening Jim Best Instruction Moderate Prices Page 7 . Point the needle toward the left shoulder and pass it through a few folds of the material and a few threads of the fold. varying the distance between stitches according to the quality and thickness The two important features of perfect overcasting or overof the material.Sewing Millinery Apply to the Cookery Dining Room Service Dietetics Dressmaking Tailoring Shirt Waist Young Women's Christian Association Prospect Avenue and East 18th Cleveland. progressive. using two or three stitches to hold (never knot under a fold). Lesson 3.— Baste material with edges exactly even or if single trim smooth and even. page 6). The half back stitch is taken half way back between the space of where the thread is drawn through and where the stitch leaves off on the upper side.— Begin at the right and work toward the left. then take a short back stitch back on the upper side and a long stitch forward on the under side. Insert the needle under the fold. —BASTING.— SLANT STITCH. Ohio West Side Branch Franyin and West 32nd Home Nursing Home Making Chafing Dish St. practical and artistic manner. Hold your goods with the edges which you are sewing on toward you. (See cut 1.

— CHAIN the top of your design and always your needle to point a towards needle through material. half stitch is (see way back the center. If and we will BELDING BROS. your dealer does not carry "Belding's. Belding's teed fast dve. Lesson 9.— CABLE STITCH. bringing needle through one stitch distance ahead and proceed as before. in eight different twists.— The the cable as the chain stitch needle is made almost exactly Lesson 8). thread under thumb form loop.— Start have left New York at City Lesson 8.— Take even stitches.Have You Tried T^T lriLLlllVJO ICECREAM? Lesson 7. instead of at Page 8 . ing stitch and draw rather yet not enough to wrinkle the goods. 528 Broadway STITCH.— OUTLINE T TTVT/^O French . New Process Embroidery Silk and every conceivable shade. hold down Draw you. of the previous stitch.American STITCH." write tell you where it can be obtained. except that drawn through at the side. take a short stitch through the material. side of the Take each stitch back two threads on the precedtightly. holding your work with the needle pointing toward you and always keeping the thread on the same needle. & CO. guaranus.

Seed. Solid and Outline Including numerous designs for the popular Braid Work and the Punched Embroidery. by mail. SKIRT PANELS. New The New of the Review Embroidery Catalog. New York. Send 20 cents for a sample of this work begun on special and one large needles. HAND BAGS. BELTS. Are all illustrated. 15 cents THE PICTORIAL REVIEW COMPANY THE PICTORIAL REVIEW BUILDING 222 West 39th Street. Satin. SHIRT WAISTS. N. having the stitches in each row fall between those of the opposite row. Etc. and Infants' and Children's Wear. Page 9 . —'Couching thread at is made by apart laying straight lines equal distances across the design. Pictorial Fully explained and illustrated in linen. —COUCH of STITCH. or The May Co. COSTUMES. SUITS.Lesson 10. The "New" Pictorial Review Embroidery Catalog is filled with ideas and suggestions of interest to any It is woman who em- broiders or does fancy work. profusely illustrated and contains designs for all the various kinds of embroideries. either the These may be obtained Transfer or Perforated Patterns Purchase a copy today at any newsdealer. Price 10 cents. Add 15 cents for The New Pictorial Review Embroidery Catalog. Underin not forgetting the exquisite designs for wear. Hold the threads in place with your left hand and fasten them to the material with small stitches on the right side. many DOILIES. Y. such as Eyelet.


) 16. needle under and through the hem. We insure both Men and Women. Lesson 15. Wedding. O. 1. and ask us to tell you today and let us explain or call up CENTRAL WHAT FIVE CENTS PER DAY WILL DO FOR YOU.Art We do stencil Work oil. 358 The Arcade SICKNESS OR AN ACCIDENT MAY COME TOMORROW ACT TODAY — Page 11 . FRAMING A SPECIALTY. Cleveland.Mgr. Dainty Cards. insert the to as many threads as are desired (always the same number).— SEED STITCH. also teach work. laid draw through in the number of threads have been opposite direction at even distances apart another set of threads. Lesson 14.E. unexpected piece of bad luck comes. Birthday. At the place where the threads cross catch to thread desired down with the cross stitch. pictures in Book ana Art exchange 31 Taylor Arcade Monogram Work.Breadwinner Then when the unforseen.— Fasten up the thread on right side. water-color. (See Lesson 11. Anniversary.the . Come in 2357 -W. wrong side and bring the through pattern to carrying When the be worked. pastel or crayon. stitches The rows must be evenly spaced and the each row falling midway between those of the rows at either side of them. for exact position of needle). of the hem. china decorating and firing. LONG teach or paint to order.Watt. Paints for china 10c and 15c each. and draw the needle through to the right of the group and take a short stitch in the fold (See cut No..and .— Draw the required number of threads Hold the hem and turn hem and baste exactly below last thread drawn. High Grade Stationery. your cash income does not stop just when you most need it. W.—The back seed stitch is made by taking small stitches covering the leaf or petals of a design or in monogram. Congratulations for Birth Carlton Studio 1430 Announcements and other special occasions. Lesson Protect -Yourself . group from three toward you. CONTINENTAL CASUALTY CO. Schofield Bldg. Be positively and safely provided for by the largest Health and Accident Insurance Company in the world.— DAMASK needle across STITCH. THE ELLEN and C. page 6.— HEMSTITCHING.

Inflammations The above statement has been so thoroughly proven that we are almost tempted to say Morlene However. therefore we want every person afflicted with Goitre and similar troubles to know that there is a remedy which is really a success in If 92% of all cases. Ohio Page . Thick Neck or Goitre by Tumors and for the sake of a better appearance the Double Chin. Tumors. to say the least. you are not tell them afflicted but of Morlene. possible misrepresentation case Morlene relieves the able conditions accompanying Goitre and gives entire satisfaction to how bad or how long standing. GOITRE will disappear when treated with MORLENE Also Thick Neck. its effectiveness has been thoroughly proven. so it is always best to get rid of any enlargements about the throat whether they be Goitre. If he fails send us SI.— The cross stitch simply bringing one stitch across the angle of the other. Double Chin. They should know about if he wants your trade. to avoid will cure any case of Goitre. we will say that in every dangerous and disagree92% of all cases. are. the breathing or the blood flow to and from the brain. Your druggist can supply you MANUFACTURED ONLY BY The Interstate Drug Company 12 Cleveland. Enlarged Joints. have relatives or friends who it.Lesson 17. 50 and we will promptly deliver a full size package containing a sufficient quantity for an ordinary treatment of 30 days. no matter tions is unsightly and disagreeable. and it often produces dangerous condiaffecting the eyes.— CROSS is STITCH. Morlene is not an experiment.

There's no time like the present to look the White over. are at your service. Happily the White experts came to the rescue with this remarkable device THREAD CAST-OFF THE White Rotary Thread machine — SANITATION HEALTH HAPPINESS Our method is of fumigation and insect extermination absolutely the most up-to-date and efficient method in use. with pencil or Lesson 18. Our experts Our methods are used & B.— SOLID EMBROIDERY. mice. 426 PROSPECT Both Phones Victor Insect 351 The Arcade Exterminating Co. manufacturers of Rotary machines have had a world of trouble with the thread tangling in the shuttle race. Penetrates through plastering.— FEATHER tailor's STITCH— BRIAR STITCH. Talk about trouble why. We rid Boats. is The double feather or briar stitch is made by taking two stitches to the right of one while the triple feather stitch right and three to the left. and recommended by the State Medical authorities as being the only absolute remedy known to Science. and two stitches to the left. one-half the dis- tance depth as the succeeding one. upholstered furniture. insects. Knot bring thread. bedding. rs^J Lesson 20. Thread Cast-off (it's exclusively White) and the difficulty vanished as if DON'T NEGLECT YOUR HOME by magic. to say nothing of the loss of time in trying to get the machine to work right. It's just another instance of White superiority.— the the only is equipped with a Cast-off. CLEVELAND. White Sewing Machine Co. rats. etc. long and short stitch in successive rows until the design entirely filled . Churches and Stores of all germs.—LONG AND SHORT STITCH — stitch Follow exact instructions as slant 5). etc. O. —then Boats. left line. and you can imagine the annoyance it has caused the operator. first on the right then on the left. bring needle through to right side. thread stitch down directly on downward to left the of the mark or mark line and hold with thumb and take short or line and repeat taking stitch. Hotels. Warehouses. instead made by taking three stitches to the Lesson 19. It is the method endorsed by the Government experts of all nations.— Mark thread along the line chalk or run a colored to be followed. (See cut). hold thread take a short stitch through and to the right side of down with the mark or thumb. (see Lesson except that one stitch in is taken.— Is Page 13 made by using is the in. exclusively on the C. Let us hear from you. ONLY No powder dust left — No poison— No bad odors. It should be fumigated by our method once a year it will be clean and healthful.

Reis Gumbac Foundations are not made of ordinary paper or even papier mache. booklets. we guarantee that they will retain their shape and appearance through all the washings. Lesson22. desired tone of expressive charm— an indication of character— the "intangible something" of which a woman can well be proud. Our standing offer is as follows: "We Will Pay for Any Garment Injured Gumbac Foundations Through Washing or Re!s by Reis Ironing. Reis' Letters and Scallops make embroidering simply delightful with the Stamping. and work over with That's all. The cut shown in Lesson 25. especially silk will add to when working mono- Block Old English — easily accomplished 2-cent by interlacing Send us your name.Lesson 21. Underlaying and Basting difficulties eliminated. Just moisten the back and stick on. 620 Broadway. Remarkable as it may seem.ed des'gns the letters.— Fasten thread by running and back stitches. Take stitch through material depth desired with needle pointing downward. sample strips of scallops and samples of the Reis Letters in your initial. new Sold at the Art Counter of Any Department Store Reis Initials. They are very simple.— (French Embroidery)— The or Initials. yards REIS FOUNDATION LETTERS Are made Script in three styles: Harmonizing colors gramrr. The material in their composition is of European origin. Hold thread under left thumb forming loop. If you can thread a needle you can successfully use them. shows the exact position of the needle. We will send turn our In Sizes from % inch to 10 Inches.— EMBROIDERY SCALLOP STITCH. many other designs so much vogue at the present time. a name of a dealer in your city stamp and the who would most you in re- likely handle our goods. and retail at a uniform price of 10c per card of to the small sizes and S of a yard to the large. and in satin stitch is the stitch taken straight across from one edge to the other of the design or taken on a slant from one edge to the opposite edge. silk or cotton. New York Page 14 . REIS' FOUNDATION Letters and Scallops They add that much help to make your wearing apparel and household linen distinctively rich. Nor will they discolor or harm the finest fabric. LEARN AX OUR EXPENSE How easily the most inexperienced sewer can create perfectly stunning effects in embroidery with the new Reis Gumbac Foundations Scallops. of embroidery their attractiveness. page IS. You will use the Satin Stitch in making in the Chevrons. boilings and ironings that the article on which they are embroidered will withstand.— SATIN STITCH." 1J 4 Gumbac Scallops come in six styles— 26 patterns. Draw needle through loop and repeat taking every stitch very closely together so no gap appears between the stitches. the scallops or embroidered edge vary according to the Often the depths of pattern or design to be worked and the outline must be very carefully followed.

When your foundation is completed then embroider according to embroidery scallop is is There and there an a stitch. 510 The Arcade Page Cleveland. H. The old method is to buy a transfer pattern or hire the stamping done. or come to our office. is only Vacuum Cleaner with Full Ball-Bearings and a BaliBearing Adjustable Roller under the suction the plate for light or The DOMESTIC heavy cleaning. tedious and laborious manner of embroidering scallops new. old. etc. Ohio . Then you must pad your scallops with the chain stitch using a good filling cotton. D OMESTIC VACUUM C LEANER Dirt and Dust are a Constant Menace to Your Home A of large percent of our contagious dis- eases are carried into the home by reason germ laden dust. THE B. For free demonstration phone Main 2463. or Central 8258 K. & C. The DOMESTIC Hand Cleaner is as powerful as the best portable electric. Upholstery.THE OLD WAY TO EMBROIDER SCALLOPS. E. 15 STROUD CO. Lesson 22. With these attachments you have a cleaner with every advantage of an electric machine at a little greater cost than the best Bissell Carpet Sweeper. is The DOMESTIC last a lifetime. cabinet built and will the only hand cleaner The DOMESTIC is with attachments for cleaning Mattresses. Then a running stitch must be very carefully taken at the exact line desired to indicate the depth. pleasant and easy way.

bringthe ing the point just outside the outline stitch. a small distance apart. send it down in the first up again in the first dot of the first row and draw the thread slightly to pull the goods together.— Thread the long special and knot it at the eye. — Lesson 24. Then fastening your thread on the under side of the material. Lesson 23.—The Buttonhole stitch and the Embroidery Scollop stitch are done exactly the same (see Lesson 22). Lesson 26. Proprietor THE NEW WAY TO EMBROIDER SCALLOPS. taking care to always have the stitches exactly the same distance apart and exactly the same height. Make stitches very even and rather tight and then shape perfectly with .AUTOMOBILE PAINTING. and repeat. row. drawing needle through loop. To save time and energy and to insure satisfactory results with your work. All you need to do is to moisten the scallop. Then send the needle down in the first dot of the second row and bring it up in the second dot of the first row. Lesson 25. bring in first the first it Page 16 . Smith. 1911 Cars Remodeled with Fore Doors and Repainted to Resemble 1912 Models Telephone--East S40 1970 EAST 66TH STREET. procure the necessary length of Reis Foundation Gumbac Scallops. oval. except that in embroidery the point of the needle is toward the edge while in buttonholeing the point of the needle is toward the cloth. Hold thread under left thumb forming loop take stitch depth desired with needle pointing downward.the stiletto. F.— PUNCHED used for WORK. Run a cotton thread around the outlines with very small running stitches to hold the form.— BUTTONHOLE STITCH.— EYELETS EYELET EMBROIDERY. for exact position of needle. Pass down needle dot of the dot of the second row. TRIMMING.— BLANKET STITCH. begin work in the upper left-hand corner of the design. NEAR CORNER OF EUCLID AVENUE Smith Carriage $ Auto Co. which can be embroidered over without any of the preliminary work explained. oblong or pointed. This eliminates all the drudgery of stamping your design and all the filling-in work and gives a much more desirable effect than you can possibly obtain by the ordinary methods. then punch with a stiletto.— Begin by fastening thread by using running and back stitch. Bring up the the work. L. See cut of Lesson 25. press down with your hand and work over with the stitch taught you in Lesson 22. REMODELING AND REPAIRING.— Eyelets may be round. AND Set the needle for each stitch just outside the cotton outline stitch and draw the point through the stilettoed opening or set the needle through the opening. By needle courtesy of Pictorial Review Co. Either manner is correct. The blanket stitch is the same as the buttonhole stitch only each stitch is made instead of very close together as the buttonhole stitch is done.

FOURTH STREET. not having the time or the inclination to do this work for themselves can make up their garment and then have experienced braiders neatly and carefully carry out your ideas in any simple or elaborate design which you may select. you have done all of the work in one direction. The stitch used to sew on the braid is a short stitch on the right side of the For materials of net. There infinite variety of beautiful designs and patterns now in vogue for is an Those braiding. It can be developed with plain braid. i Lesson 27. bring up through the second dot of the first row. On heavy goods such as velvet. so that the effect will be one of little squares. Suits. most artistic and approved designs. Joseph Korach 1258 ^—^— & Company II. serge or linen a braid or cord the color of the material should be used.li l —^— Page 17 . Braiding is most suitable and effective for a border or a trimming for waists. or marquisette a dull silver or fine gold or soft silk cord put on with button The stamping of hole couching makes a most beautiful border or trimming. Coats and Blouses the latest. OHIO m^m j i ——— jj i . so the plainest or the most fastidious tastes can be satisfied. Braiding Ladies'. gowns. Bring your work to us or phone and we will tell us up by either you what we can do for you. turn the naterial and repeat the stitch at right angles to the first set of stitches._l-Mi 1^- H I L^.— BRAIDING. soutache. evening wraps or children's dresses and can be used on any material. suits. CLEVELAND. To secure the most attractive effect the braid should be sewed on the edge so that it will stand up on the material. of your We also make buttons own call material in all styles. (Braiding and Embroidering) W. Misses' Braided in and Children's Dresses. draw the thread a bit. cord. chiffon braid or cord and a long stitch on the back.^ through the second dot of the second row. pass down through the second dot of When the second row and bring up again in the third dot of the first row. bias tubing or fine embroidery or the design can be followed with the outline or chain stitch. these patterns for braiding must be most carefully done and the design followed exceedingly accurately in order to produce a satisfactory effect.

Chevrons and emblems are very appropriate for sailor suits. Etc. work bags. and sew on. etc. or crinoline or stiff lessons on embroidery for the monogram work. Page 18 . while grown ups always appreciate their monogram neatly worked on their garments. and a number of purposes which present them- and children always delight in an emblem or chevron on their arm. chevrons and monogram foundations and selves work over them with the Lesson 21). Made in three styles-— Old English— Script— Block— sizes ^g inch to 10 inches. You can either get the Reis emblems. household handkerchiefs. table covers. your monograms or We have plain and suitable for fancy letters every need of embroidery linen.Use Reis Foundation Letters for initials. will supply you with Reis Foundation Letters for any desired purpose Ask Q t the needlework department Lesson 28. REIS 630 ASHABLE LETTERS •«amo r M«»OOIf)EBV BROADWAY NEW YORK The Morehouse Co. such as lingerie. Sold at the needlework department of every department and dry goods store or send for our illustrated bcok on embroidering and samples in your initials.— MONOGRAMS. boys' suits. satin stitch (see you can stamp them on paper and baste them on the goods and embroider. rons and monograms on a separate piece See of broadcloth or linen. cutting the paper or crinoline away as soon as finOr you may embroider the chevished. CHEVRONS AND EMBLEMS.

Richardson's 1 Back for Pillow 1 Grand Prize Grecian Floss On sale at Diagram Lesson arrangement of stitches — showing and color scheme. This extraordinary offer is made to convince every woman of the superiority Richardson's Grand Prize Wash Embroidery Silk Why your home with attractive and not beautify effective pillows when the opportunity is offered? We will give you tire this en- Pillow Outfit including 1 Pillow Top — either oblong or square Every woman wants these attractive pillows and also knows the true value of —tinted on Aberdeen Crash. and Six Skeins of Richardson's Mercerized Cotton Floss for BERNER'S ART STORE Arcade Building oniy 25 cents Page Cleveland 19 :: Ohio TOUR CHOICE OF TWELVE DESIGNS .— This Beautiful Pillow FREE f All we ask is that you buy 6 skeins of Grand Prize Wash Embroidery Silk Richardson's or trated lesson for ZDC and a The fully illusPillow Top and Back are absolutely FREE.

First mark the exact length of buttonhole you desire. Women.— Unless you have tested your skill in making buttonholes it will be wise for you to practice until you are in a fair way to feel confidence in your ability. 3241-W Cleveland. None of the tonic values are lost. Ohio Page 20 . then cut straight the slit to be worked. but is much more palatable and tonic in its qualities. otherwise you may ruin your garment. then run a thread around the space you intend to cut. over cast the edges then work with the button hole stitch (as per Lesson 24). It contains enough of the minerals and salts to make it the most healthful of drinking waters. PURE ALWAYS PURE— CONTAMINATED h°nes : N ^r t 34 6 The Electra Pure Water Co. Quality. IS AS AS DISTILLED WATER. in the exact place you desire it.Clothes of Quality for Men. 2035 East 18th Street Cent. TERMS— $1. at prices absolutely as low as at any cash store. The Purest Water Sold in Cleveland ( Bacterial Tests Abundantly Prove the Truth of this Statement ) THE PROCESS OF PURIFICATION necessary for the production of Katharos is the most advanced known to science.— TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES. Clothes of the BETTER SORT of Clothing. Cleveland. THE BOTTLES ARE STERILIZED and rinsed with Katharos before being filled. KATHAROS KATHAROS due to the liberation of gas during the electrolytic action. Boys and Children ON CREDIT HERE you'll find the NEW. A SQUARE DEAL CWALLEY'S CREDIT STORE ^"^ 424 Euclid Ave. Distinction and Style. Pay as you can spare it. the DIFFERENT. which is best described as being pure until it is declared impure. IS in which respect it is very unlike spring water. Springs situated in proximity to thickly populated districts are peculiarly liable to sudden contamination. The volume of sickness traceable to SPRINGS is of vast proportions. NOTHING BENEFICIAL IS REMOVED by the process of purification.00 I'M THE MAN That'll Always Give You Down. Ohio Lesson 29. KATHAROS HAS LIFE AND SPARKLE.

such as stiff paper or thin oil-cloth. HAVE YOU EVER INSPECTED OUR LARGE FURNITURE STORE? It Will Pay Come You in to Do So see the filled. Then begin at the bottom of the threads and insert the needle under the loops and over the thread. repeat three or four times or until you have thickness consistent with the weight of goods you are working on. Get acquainted with our stock and new things with which our store is Let us show you what beautiful pieces can be had for little money. Page 21 Co.— Have button hole completed first. allowing the eye of the needle to pass under first. and mark either with a pin or with tailor's chalk. ON Lesson 31. leaving the thread moderately loose.— SEWING BUTTONS. DARNING. Fasten your thread with the over and over stitch. and examine our Furniture and Floor Coverings. Fasten the thread well on the under side by several over and over stitches. In mending stockings a darning ball may be used. LOOPS. they should be basted on a flat surface. as it should match in color and quality. continue till loop is covered. and run your thread exactly along the lengthwise thread of the garment. The Henke Furniture 3001-3021 Lorain Ave. cor. Always begin a little beyond the worn places so your stitches will hold. 30th ..— Lesson 30. Lesson 32. then measure exact place button is needed. The darning thread to be used depends entirely — — — on the material to be darned. When the button is securely sewed on wind the thread a few times around under the button and fasten well on the under side of the garment. draw through cloth and bring thread loosely down to exact length desired. W. then begin on the cross wise threads and run over and under the lengthwise threads altering the over and under stitch. then fasten well on under side. and in many instances a thread or ravelling drawn from the goods itself is preferable. but in mending most materials. Place button directly over mark or pin and bring up thread through holes of the buttons.

a little larger than the hole. send post paid upon the receipt 1382 West Ninth Street THE HALL-VAN GORDER COMPANY Page 22 CLEVELAND. — Stoting be is used on »%&&% WTPrfiiTi?lIli-- heavy goods. also mending all kinds of rents in clothing. Lesson 34. and useful for making many other kinds of repairs quickly and effectively. all and press with a warm flatiron.. and cut it so the weave comes exact with the place to be mended. or that can be mended much better with the Havanco Mending Tissue than with needle and thread. directions Re-seating or repairing knees of boys' pants. One For sale piece each of White. Black and Brown Ten Cents to the by package for . dry goods and notion stores. follow above for Garments repaired with Havanco may be washed and ironed but not Heat is the only thing that will affect it. and patches can be put on and repairs made on a moment's notice by adhering to the following directions: Brush leaving size it all dust from garments. druggists. Baste patch on wrong side of goods. the stitch to mended without darning or is A is thread from the cloth used and begun back from the rent and the back and forth in running is stitch a slanting line taken until the tear has been closed. OHIO . boiled. Cut piece of the Havanco tissue the of the piece of lay a paper on cloth over for stockings. — Stoting. silk goods and place it between the garment and the patch. PATCHING. Remember do patches. or will of the price in stamps.— Lesson 33. On the right side cut out the worn or frayed part and make a small slit in each of the corners and turn down evenly the edges and sew down neatly on both sides of the garment. . — There are many materials such as rain-proof clothing or kid gloves. Same directions goods or other goods where part is worn thin and a patch required. not have the iron HOT. place piece of goods like garment under hole. etc. If possible have your patch of the same material. silk garments. and on a rent or cut in a material which needs patching. HAVANCO MENDING TISSUE The best thing for repairing bottoms of skirts and pants.

— OVERHAND ordinary patch right side (see PATCH. whereas with the Ideal Faucet Syringe you can obtain any desired force. The operator can use a pint or a gallon without stopping and at any force desired. Ohio Page 23 .•> . Cleveland. while the ordinary fountain syringe has not enough force to it to dislodge germs.. sanitary. in a syringe. will use the lawn hose with such force as to drive everything before it. perfect and effective syringe ever made. will last a life time. IDEAL FAUCET SYRINGE COMPANY 9601 Cedar Avenue. desired to use an antiseptic or sanative treatment in connection with a douche. the goods are heavy and not It is often washed. clumsy fountain syringe. the overhand patch put on the same as the is Lesson 34). Ackerman's Patent Ideal Faucet Syringe and Bath Spray The most wonderful improvement ever made j-i i !<v ...: Lesson 35.. no cumbersome water bags to get out of order. a which has and when sponge in it. all that is required is to it is drop your medicine onto this Sponge in the cup. except that the patch to a overhanded on the and the underside neatly cut down good seam and pressed. convenient. so long found inefficient and unsatisfactory. and the force of the stream can be regulated to suit the purpose for which it is used from a drop of water at a time to a pressure of 50 pounds. You can get any desired pressure or flow of water. With this Ideal Faucet Syringe you can get the same results. which is controlled by a valve. always ready. It is entirely unlike the old style. if necessary.-. y\ '. as there is no limit as to the supply of water. — The Ideal Patent Cup Attachment. in washing off dirt from the porch. Can be used for everything a fountain syringe is used for. economical. It is the most simple.— Where may be used. A lady. screw on cap and attach to end of rubber tube before putting on the spray and then screw on the vaginal pipe and the whole stream of water is medicated with the medicine.

and are width and join the diagonal bias is Lesson 37.Lesson 36. the bias strip to emerge. On heavy goods that do not ravel or fray out to press back the edge of the seam. but the stitching must be very straight and very even. Baste and sew on either by machine or by hand. FELLED SEAM. — CORDING. obtained by folding on the selvedge or straight Folds and bands are used very neat trimming. With a narrow turning fold the broad edge over the narrow edge of the seam and hem either by hand or on machine. Ask your dealer for the W. 39. Take your bias band twice the desired width and fold so the edges come exactly together. turn down the fold and sew neatly just below the cord. ends.— Cut Lesson and basted N. —PIPING. When the fold is lined. the canvas is basted in and the edges of the fold fastened down with the catch stitch. 4679 K Tables fnr Ladies DRINK Griffiths Restaurant 1022-1028 Prospect Avenue SENORA Always the Same CLEVELAND. — an exactly even depth under the fold. DOUBLE FOLD. — — Cent. and is an easy manner of disposing of the tailored seams. 41. and silk thread should always be used to join the seams of a garment made of wool goods. which is beautifully made at and ready for use. Seams can be joined by machine stitching. and stitch on either side gives a very good finish. considerably on tailored suits. Fold over the top edge.— MILLINER'S FOLD. Trim the under edge narrower than the outer. 0. Lesson — — stitch. chain running stitch. — — Lesson 38. & N. SEAMS. as they make a Cut your bias strips the desired easily made. Sew up the seam in any of the ordinary ways described in the preceding lesson. Great care must be taken that the stitches are not too fine on tailored seams. your bias bands two and one-half times the width desired. Lesson 42. piping. and then turn under the edges of the fold and stitch with one or two rows of stitching. and cutting diagonally. allowing only the edge of The piping may be lined or unlined.B. or they may be protected in various manners.— Cut it the bias strips twice in as wide as desired. such as binding or overhanding the raw edges. Good Try Our Home-like Baking QUALITY HAS BEEN OUR SUCCESS COFFEE Page 24 . Lesson 40. or by making the felled or French seams. or back stitch or the edge when of material that does not fray can be left raw or pinked.— BANDS AND FOLDS.—A true the material with the straight edge of the top lengthwise fold exactly. Hold the cord so cannot become twisted and place the exact center of the fold. make a narrow turn up of the bottom edge and bring it up to cover the edge turned down. — Piping is made of bias strips folded in the center.

Lesson 48. Lesson 46. Much time is saved however. The W. Hems are made by turning the edge of the material twice in any suitable depth and the fold fastened down with the slant stitch or by hemstitching or in some instances the plain running stitch. When finished take a moderately hot iron and press down wrong the hem on 51. or W. Lesson —DAMASK at HEM. Baste down then hem with slant stitch (see Lesson S).) side of Page 25 .— THE BOUND SEAM. A lap seam is as its name implies one seam lapping over another. HEM. and cut the material in the fold and hem — — HEM the bias edges. when hemming can be done on the machine as it saves the measuring and basting. -Make a plain seam leaving one edge wide and one edge narrow. Lesson 49. Trim evenly and narrowly.BELLE VERNON MILK the Best Milk Lesson 43. leaving just room enough to catch the stitches nicely. & N. Lesson 47. very simple. Turn back the wide fold and baste down the narrow edge and stitch with one or two rows of stitching. Hold goods toward you and turn neatly and begin at the right and sew insertion and material together with the slant stitch.—THE FRENCH SEAM. Lesson 45. Cut either bias or crosswise strips and turn under both edges and stitch over a plain seam. LAPPED SEAM. overcast using the damask hem. Stitch near the edge of the upper lap and again one-half inch back. WELT SEAM. turn garment and sew on wrong side taking seam of depth to entirely inclose the first seam. binding. or hemstitch (see Lesson 17). & N.— The proper material for binding the edges of seams is bias bands of silk. and overhand the end. yet deep enough so the turning includes all the edges. or running stitch on the right side of the garment. Lesson — ROLLED the right side.— To hem square corners. — Table It is linen can be very neatly hemmed by hem. for your hem must be turned exactly even. Catch the overlap of the corners of the hem to the underlap. while in others a hem is joined to a lace or embroidery insertion by what is called a roll hem. STRAP SEAM. being careful the stitches do not show through on the right side. and cut out the underlying corners. binding turns itself so all you need to do is to fasten the binding on by hand or sew it down with machine.— Sew the seam by machine. (See Lesson 5. Lesson 44. HEMMING.— TO CORNERS. linen or cotton. 50. of Turn fold as of for an ordinary Fold back the linen the crease the first the hem and with very fine stitches. For the ordinary hem begin by making a narrow turning. turn under exactly as for an ordinary hem. — Is used for setting in insertion. or after turning the edges for the hem fold toward the center. Then cut a strip of heavy paper or notch a piece of card board the exact depth you desire your hem and use this paper or card board for a marker. The edges of the goods to be bound should be evenly trimmed and the binding basted on the edges. This is one of the simplest manners in which to dispose — — — — — — of a tailored seam.

or on a seam. Turn and sew down either with machine or with slant stitch. FACINGS. PL E ATI N G Accordeon Pleating and Side Pleating made in the newest effects for Party Costumes. Lesson — GATHERING. accordion pleating. Embroidery or lace may be used for facing on some articles by following the suggestion of cut which is done in the same way as the ordinary facing. Where lace or embroidery must be joined in tucks sew the cloth so the seam will come in the fold of and under the tuck. so it is not necessary But to make to baste in your tucks after a little practice on your machine.spaces. chiffon or any of If the ruffle is to be sheer materials. at Lesson 55. lay a damp cloth over them and press so they will keep their fold nicely. embroidery. House Gowns. or the work will not look neat. either N. tape. tucks by hand you must make a marker and fold exactly on the line and — — sew down carefully by machine or with running stitch. In this instance the edge of the embroidery or lace must be heavy enough to entirely cover the edge of the material of the garment. only you must always baste down your pleats. then heavy draw goods on gathering string into exact position desired. Place the right side of the facing against the right side of the goods and sew firmly with machine or by running stitch. In underwear the W. Pleats are made the same as tucks. Always draw the ends of the threads through to the underside of the garment and tie carefully. A first class sewing machine is provided with a tucker that can be gauged for any size tuck you desire. 52. The White Sewing Machine is provided with a tucker with which you can easily both regulate your tucks and the space between the tucks. Use a bias band. Waists. bias tape is most useful in innumerable instances. Etc. & N. Lesson 56. a piece of goods cut either across or down the weave of the goods will do. Neckwear.— Divide rather make a 53. made of goods without a finished edge edge must be neatly hemmed the Art Pleating Shop 438 Old Arcade Cleveland Page 26 . side pleating and sunburst pleating must be done but all a pleating establishment. Facing of lace or embroidery around the neck or arm hole of sleeves is sometimes put on the right side making a trimming or finish. — Ruffles may be made of straight or bias goods. Etc. lace. Maternity Dresses. Muffs. your goods into two or four even knot and use the simple running stitch.— Is simply from two to as many rows of gatherOn most materials it ing as desired.— RUFFLES. Dancing Frocks. Lesson — — straight — Lesson 54. B. unless you have a pleating machine of your own. And many styles of Pleat ings for Trimmings of Dresses. Fancy Waists. TUCKS. Street Dresses.— SHIRRING. embroidery. can be done as successfully on the sewing machine as by hand and very much quicker. Hats. Dressing Sacques. Children's Dresses.

(See Lesson 48). dresses. gentle cathartic fL-J^y^-* & - RememberZOA-PHORA Stomach and gratifying results. or the ruffle may be sewed on the right side and covered with a bias band. Or again the ruffle may be inserted in the hem by placing the right side of the garment and the ruffle together and turn hem back to In very fine the wrong side of the garment. Headache. Lesson 57.— Baste the lace or embroidery on the right side in the exact position desired. bias tape. of insertion. The White Sewing Machine has an attachment wherewith the hemming is done and the lace or embroidery sewed on with one operation. which is done exactly as overcasting. Cut out goods Carefully baste down hem over edge leaving enough only for a narrow hem. where hooks and eyes. Lesson 59. where an ordinary hook or buttonhole would be placed. make a second turning and hem. & N. and all Disorders Arising from a Sluggish Liver and Imperfect Digestion. snap fasteners or buttons can be used. Props. put the right side of the lace to the right If the machine is to be used put the edge side of the material and overhand. On page 32. ZOA-PHORA STOMACH The Scientific AND LIVER PILLS and Effectual Remedy for Biliousness. waists. or with a piece of the W. to the necessary fullness and by placing the right side of the material and ruffle together and sewing firmly. For sale at all first-class druggists. belts. and if desired an edging may be sewed on either by machine The ruffle is attached to the garment or neatly overhanded (see Lesson 6). which we recommend for skirts. 25 CENTS. undergarments. either by gathering (see Lesson 52).. N.— SETTING IN LACE OR EMBROIDERY.— If the lace or embroidery is to be put on by hand. B. of the wrong side of the lace or embroidery to the edge of the right side of the hem and stitch.— SEWING ON HOOKS AND EYES. you will find a cut of the Wilson Dress Hook and Eye. MICH. children's garments or any purpose. and cannot rust. work a ruffle of lace or embroidery may be put on with the whip stitch (see Lesson 6). quick. They are flat and invisible and never slip open as To sew on. Lesson 58. Or the lace or embroidery may be set in by using the roll hem. ZOA-FHORA KALAMAZOO..— SEWING ON LACE OR EMBROIDERY. taking pains to catch through the narrow hem on the underside. turn hollow side (see — Page 27 . PRICE. The Wilson Dress Hook and Eye is easy to hook and unhook. When the food is not being properly digested and the Liver refuses to work and the whole system becomes clogged with poison and you need a good. sew hook so often happens with the ordinary hook and eye. Lesson 48). Liver Pills Stomach have been used for over half a century with most For habitual Constipation and Bowel Trouble use the ZOA-PHORA Anti-Constipation Pills.Moth 71. See page 96 for partial list. and stitch on right side. Liver Pills CO.

by procuring the Reis woven names.es for $1. in the most elaborate gowns.i different style letters. prevents loss by laundries and hotels. Men's shirts should be marked with an embroidered initial just above Linen.sewn to an i Sm Phora won't do for garment. The stitch used is simply sewing over and over through the small round holes of the hook and eye. However. The Warren Feather Bone for stays or collar supports can be stitched by machine into the lining of the article to be boned. Every garment and piece of linen in your home should be marked. fleeze lined and woolen underwear. the hosiery. Lesson 60.— MARKING OF LINEN UNDERWEAR. and sew the eye where an ordinary eye or button would have been placed. but a more attractive way is to use the catch stitch (see Lesson 11). You can get these letters or monograms in nearly any shade or style and all you need to do is to baste them on your fabrics and work over them with your embroidery cotton or silk. $2. ami are easily cut apart anil . Lesson 61. They never wear out. as are the ordinary hook and fastener.00 for 144 $1.. many prefer to use the feather stitch (see Lesson 18). G. in a REIS' ENGRAVED NAMES t'anilin. as well as in the simplest. very quickly and easily done.75 If your dry p><<ds store cannot take youi orders send youi order with remittance direct to us. for they are perfect and durable and will stand the boiling and ironing of the laundry without being damaged in the least. lingerie and handkerchiefs beautifully monogrammed or with carecuff. is This or the Reis fully embroidered articles. Broadway and Bleecker ®*s NEW VCKK o^v/rv.— PUTTING IN STAYS AND COLLAR SUPPORTS. navy. JL22Z Pa ere 28 . aprons and children's clothes.- Printed from Engraved Black on fine Tape: WOMANKIND no medicine will. ami will identify you in case of REIS' NAMES come in si jj. The gauze.25 IV arr-. initials plainest form the distinctive mark which The Reis foundation washable letters lends dignity to the or the Reis initial medallions should always be used. in fact all laundered garments should be marked with the name or at least the initial of the member of the family to whom the article belongs. What MARK YOUR GARMENTS WITH REIS' WOVEN NAMES Vonr garments should hear your name. REIS' WOVEN NAMES are machine woven <>n good quality white "a m hi ic tape in either red.25 for 72 Names Names Plate-. REIS & BRO. St. uji 100 200 Names for $1. light hlue Mark and can he had in several . woven initials made on woven tape which can be neatly overcasted on the inside of the garment. besides being a substantial stitch to hold the boning secure.toward the cloth and the straight edge toward edge of cloth. It saves annoyance. s accident. which gives the inside of the boned' article a very pretty finish..

CJA11 you have to do is stick them on and work over with silk or cotton. 4th St.— EMBROIDERY DESIGNS. navy. requires artistic ability and much to make an attractive design. However should you prefer to have the embroidery done by more experienced fingers than your own or have not the time to devote on that part of the decoration of waist or gown you will do well to take it to your local embroiderer where the work will be done by trained hands who make a specialty of lessons together with full directions for of embroidering. lavender and black. 10c. We also make buttons of your own material. Our experienced embroiderers can work out in perfect effects any design you may choose for any purpose Either machine cr hand work. each or 3 for 25c. Price. Clair Ave. but all of the stitches ordinarily used will be found in this series stamping and making the garment. Y. There is no trimming or ornamentation for waists. N. but pretty AVERYon the fad to have the Hand Regular Dinner. Ohio . Served from 11 25 Cents to 2 p. m. St. beautiful and elaborate creations. (CLEVELAND Sixth City initial sleeve or pocket of shirts.The Hawley Cor. work a. green. Joseph Korach Both Phones 1258 Page 29 & Company W. white. dresses or wash suits which meets the refined feminine approval more than embroidery designs. m. and ^-* R "IS • it 9 EMBROIDERED SHIRT INITIALS is West Third St. etc. embroidered initials are very beautiful. pajamas. The designs and stitches used will depend entirely upon the taste of the individual and the style and texture of the garment. Reis' Initials elimate all this work. Embroidery Send or bring us that piece of Embroidery that you do not know how or have not the time to trouble to do.. (Braiding and Embroidering) Cleveland. Lesson 62. G ReiS & BrOS. 630 Broadway. in all styles. On nearly all smart garments from the marquisettes and sheer chiffon and silks and dainty lawns to the heavier materials and all wash goods you will find at least a suggestion ranging from the pretty French knots and the simple outline and chain stitch following the simplest of patterns to the most intricate. ii red.

A modern machine is supplied with attachments that will hem. Rotary Shuttle IX! We and "Sit-Strate" Machines. provide yourself with a variety of sizes of cotton spool thread Be sure and Page 30 . the thread should just pass easily through the eye of the needle. Chalk — Skirt Marker.Buy a Sewing Machine before you see the WHITE. cheaply made machine when for the same money or a few dollars more a first class. The articles usually required are: 1 2 —Cutting Scissors — Button Hole Scissors Stick 3— Yard 4 — — — 8— 9— Pins 10 — Tailor's —Tracing 5 —Tape 6 7 Line Needles Thread.) 41. MACHINE Avenue Phones CHAPTER XI.) 37.) 38. (See pages 12 13 14 34. see page 31D). reliable and reputable make can be purchased. (See page 20— Boning. DO DON'T DO WHAT Vibrator. It is always a bad investment to buy an inferior. or where a line of tucks or trimming is desired. but and a large spool of white basting thread and a spool of colored basting thread to use where it is not expedient to mark with a pencil or tailor's chalk. see that you have the necessary accessories at hand with which to do your work. Botti WHITE SEWINGNo. (See page 21 — Dress Forms. made in One is of the greatest mistakes is sewing is the use of a needle that too large and thread that too coarse. Before beginning the making of a garment. with ordinary care will last a lifetime so the greatest of caution should be used in selecting one. (See page 19— Dress Shields. — Hooks and Eyes — Patterns 15 — Linings. quilt. and ? learn how much easier. better and quicker it will do your sewing. On the other hand do not attempt to use a coarse thread in a fine needle or a fine thread in a large needle. gather. (Silk. (See page 16— Stiffenings 17 — Tape. A good sewing machine (B) THREADS. (Cotton) Thread. (See page 18— Trimmings. Your machine must be kept perfectly clean and well oiled and by keeping the tension adjusted just right you will not need to give it much further attention. 426 ProspectCO.) 36. 11 Wheel (A) 40 and 41. shall be glad to show it up and let it speak for itself. NECESSARY SEWING ACCESSORIES.) 39.) SEIWNG MACHINE. (Basting) Thread. hemstitch and in fact do nearly everything that the human fingers can do in this line and a wise woman will keep her attachments always on hand and use them whenever possible for they will save her hours of useless labor.

WHITE SEWING MACHINE BOTH PHONES (C) 426 CO. a seam sewed with silk is infinitely stronger. Pure costs One of the (D) most important SEWING THREAD. and made in every conceivable color and shade.DON'T GUESS you as a Sewing Machine user of the White Tension Indicator but see it for yourself. is made from your dealer does not carry "Belding's. Great care may be used in selecting styles. and that a yard of pure silk thread will stretch from two to three inches. on acproper texture. will give to a stress. 528 Broadway NEW YORK There hook and (E) HOOKS AND EYES. the results to be obained will more than justify the difference in expense. It's exclusively White. no greater extravagence than to invest in a cheap worthless eye. then you'll need the WHITE. whereas a cotton or linen thread has no "give" or "stretch". if the thread is not of the Silk thread is particularly adapted for seam making. elasticity and fast color. and we will BELDING BROS. and yet the results will be disappointing. With it you can do work that can't possibly be done on any other machine. smooth and elastic.. not be generally known that silk is the strongest fiber known to mankind. and It may will always retain its original shape. and while embroidery silk more than cotton or any of the other substitutes." write tell you where you can get it. trimmings. lustrous and beautiful effect that cannot be obtained with any of the imitations or substitutes. and so if you are progressive and desire to do your sewing under the most advantageous conditions. is The kind of embroidery material all important. and so available only for White at the value to buyers. silk will wash and wear without fading. PROSPECT AVENUE EMBROIDERY THREAD. Be sure to drop in and see it at first opportunity. cloth. is strong. requisites in dressmaking is the thread used in sewing the seams. they are always unsatisfactory and a garment not properly is — Page 31 . count of its great strength. etc. If us. & CO. consequently. BELDING'S SEWING SILK the finest quality of raw silk. Embroidery silk will give that rich.

Name J. while others L-oi. 1 My er's Deal- Ave. Always Dress-hook Co.* invisible they never pull they do not leave the usual "bunch" which tells where other yf' Cleveland. Gray. Ohio hooks are sewn. upstairs and I'll run fix it. garments Address J The Wilson Dress-hook Company 198 St. . 10c several garments. free. J His Address. O. provided you have not previously had a free card Dress-hooks are guaranteed not to rust or crush in washing The Wilson and .** 198 St. best thing to do to make sure that This Embarrassment Can Never Come to You if You Use the hooks that can't "pop" open accidentally or allow the dress to gape and spread. — will fastened is ruined...'ilson i pppp H E» d Fill Out This Coupon . 10c a My Name Street Ask for Wilson Dress-hooks on all ready-to-wear . making them invaluable on wash garments. Clair * y* ^* Town .State..E. snap fasteners or buttons. the back is always smooth.. White) previous sample Sold at notion counters everywhere (remember the orange and black card) Large and Small sizes. N. No matter how loose or tight your garment.. E.ClairAve." women accustomed to troublesome hook-. Outwear Tlense send. and eyes.ig not go through the is laundry without pieces. card Wilson Dress-hooks. "Thank you. Page 32 . fect ease. lation to They are truly a reve- on Dress. — Black.kooks FuBI-Size Card Sent V. oard of one dozen. Cleveland. out beyond the edse and show. Black and White colors. neatly closed and perfectly flat if you use these un ique hooks Though you can unhook them with per. Can not catch on trimmings. They are Wilson Dress-hooks.N.omng. So flat . its Many to of the common The brands of hooks and eyes will rust and leave marks on your garment.

Shoulder Forms and Bust Forms The Ladies' Home Journal Patterns Reis Bros. which we find is always reliable and satisfactory and costs no more than any other good fastener. the quality of thread.. and always and pleasing assortments. shields and dozen other seemingly trifling details. but the finish of lining. importance of the little things not only the quality and style of fabrics. Page 33 . Coat Pads. silks in large and dress things. the kind of hook and eyes. realize the These women Each season fabrics finds here the newest of cloths. because we make a specialty of all the little the linings and findings. We Specialists in Dressmakers'' Supplies '"THE BEST DRESSED and making of their WOMEN are most often those who take the keenest interest and pleasure in the small details clothes. Co.— you have a brand that in will not rust and that will positively hold your garment recommend and use in our demonstrations the Wilson Dress Hook and Eye. place. is at hand. And. Every convenience tern. all the best of such are here. to the style book and pat- We mention: Conovers' Naiad Dress Shields Warren 's Featherbone Wilson's Hooks and Eyes £5? Embroidery Foundations Coat Fronts.

as is in the exterior. satisfactory lining for your suit. No fabric will wear as well as a pure dye silk fabric. for the average person to wear well. Dye Guaranteed Satin the every yard guaranteed to give satisfactory wear. It is naturally the most beautiful of all fabrics for lining purposes. you should take into consideration the HEXTER'S LINING STORE Dress Makers' Supplies and 1 Tailors' Trimmings " "Everything for your Dress but the Goods 153-155 Arcade : : Euclid Avenue Entrance Page 34 . Belding's Pure silk Dye Guaranteed Satin.Belding's Pure name on the selvage. BELDING BROS. however. some of the most reliable silk manufacturers are weaving their names in the selvage of the lining as a guarantee of wear. on account of the practice of adulteration or weighting. In order to overcome this difficulty. 528 Broadway NEW YORK CITY LININGS. select silk linings that will By procuring reliable. very difficult. & CO. you are assured of a If your garment does not require a or satin lining. effect in the lining of a coat (F) It is just as essential to it have a satisfying Silk is or jacket. cloak or garment. Look for and accept no substitute.

They are made in linolawnblack. for if you do so you will take every chance of making a complete misfit of your garment. New York weight. and have it stuffed up for the purposes of having her own figure for fitting 75c and draping in the workroom. which dressmakers at home. To all those who have not tried them it seems impossible. Sour Risings. cutter and fitter never attempt to make even the plainest garment without a pattern. as it eliminates the endless preliminary fittings. There is also a Construction Guide. overcomes all obstacles. boned. Belching of Gas. quality and texture of your material and go to a reliable lining store.FITTED WAIST LININGS is considered one of the most important inventions of the present time. so with this Manual of Sewing and Dress Making and a Pictorial Review Pattern.. Dyspepsia. illustrating precisely how to put the garment together. the If your dealer cannot supply you. write us today ana we will supply you direct or give you of a reliable dealer who handles our line. as new linings are constantly coming into fashion. Heartburn. Be careful and purchase the exact size or exactly what your measure is around the waist and you will have a good fitting lining. this affords easy ripping if a fitting is necessary and all the fitting is done at the upper part of the waist in all instances. according to sty!e. Always get your pattern before buying your goods if possible. 327-329 East 34th St. Page 35 . boning. They are all finished. Bloating. but above the boned portions and on the shoulders. fitting. or professional have to suffer before they attain the result which you obtain in a ready made Grean Fitted Waist Lining. With every Pictorial Review Pattern you will find a Cutting Guide show- ing exactly how to lay on your goods to the best advantage and how to guard against making any mistakes in cutting. by knowing exactly the — required amount to make the article in question. where a fitted lining is not desired the Grean Invisible Net Foundations will be most valuable to you. but you may rest assured that the new. for often you can save a yard or so of goods or save yourself from running short of material. asking them to show you their newest and most appropriate linings for the purpose which you desire. Always select a pattern exactly your own size don't get one a size too large or a size too small. white and grey percaline. If you are lining a waist that needs a fitted lining. and in white and black Corsica silk. much time can be saved by using the Grean Fitted Lining. The cost of a pattern is so small and the help they give so great that you cannot afford to take chances of wasting your goods without a pattern to guide you. the seams are very loosely stitched. which is ready for use without having the trouble of cutting. finish it. Nausea. \J XV A Digestive Tablets See ?oT 96 special offer For Indigestion. you will find it easy to cut and fit and make any garment you may desire. have hooks and eyes in the back or front. Every person should buy one of grey percaline fitted to herself. or if it is a light weight waist. Pain or Distressed Feeling in the Stomach. and you will need to be informed as to the best. This & 51 - 00 name Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Company. /A / \ ± ±J. putting on hooks and eyes and finishing. but simple principle which is embodied in the Grean Waist Linings. Unless you are an experienced designer. (G) PATTERNS. 25 cents per box y (^ jTV " pTTfvn l\. and all Disagreeable Symptoms arising from a Disordered Stomach.

while on your skirts your seam must be bound. Dept. TRADE MARK REGISTERED Once used Always used Beware of Imitations AT ALL DEALERS A is very useful article for piping. Sample reference book free. NEW YORK. For the waist you will need it in many instances. &N. Wright 40 Lispenard St. Made "W.? White and (*4 colors. not shrink.. showing colors. 13 widths Pure Linen and wide) usefulness. for the support for the hooks and eyes. wide). almost impossible to make any article of wearing apparel without tape. finishing or It will binding seams on all materials and for fagotting. 4 widths (5-16 in. & Sons Co. Wm. to }A in. Mf rs . i in highest grade n - to 1 in. a necessity in the home sewing room. E." Bias Seam Tape INDISPENSABLE IN THE SEWING ROOM Saves half the work making a garment.— (H) It is TAPE. also in India Linon. & N. and for this BIASSEAHTAPt It turns itself "W. for the binding around the neck and armholes and many other purposes. Silk." Bias Seam Tape Are you taking advantage of its Cambric and Lawn. Page 36 . F.. widths and quality of materials.

On the Parisian lingerie. instead of facing. you will find that a support of the W. & N. which nothing in the world of the kind can rival in daintiness and beauty. stores or sample pair on receipt of 25 Tl 1 he f* T* /"* t. 101 Franklin St. Added to these the fact that an unreliable shield will not wash and cannot be kept sanitary makes it imperative to procure a good reputable shield that can be relied upon to protect your gown or jacket. there is an odor from the rubber of the cheaper shields that is very offensive to a refined woman.I!... of from perspiration be sure and select a cheaper shields on the market today are anything but satisfactory and the ruined waists showing the stains just below the shields are a result of their use. And then too. you will see this tape neatly put on with the tiniest of slant stitch making a support just below the scallop of the embroidered edge and you will find it most satisfactory to follow their example.— purpose no tape answers so well as the W.N. protecting your garments shield reliable When dress — so many the The Crowning Attribute of Lovely Woman is Cleanliness NAIAD DRESS SHIELD SUPREME Beauty ! IN Quality ! Cleanliness ! POSSESSES two important and exclusive features. Narrow Bias Seam Tape means an additional wear of many months. On your underwear you will need it to bind over your embroidery ruffles. It does not deteriorate with age and fall to powder in the dress can be easily and quickly sterilized by immersing Guarantee with Every Pair in boiling water for a few seconds only.Y. We use in our demonstrations and always recommend the Naiad Dress Shield. (I) DRESS SHIELDS. and when you have an embroidered edge to your garment as seen in Lesson 79. At the cents. f* Manufacturers. Bias Seam Tape. Page 37 . & N. which is ready for use and turns itself so the edge is always neat and even. tOnOVer LO.

Michigan Page 38 . Girdles and Collars because Stitching bone in on by machine holds the place. collar-foundations. insist and leaded dress weights that they are u -ip^M&tt" YtMendif£u Three Oaks. The class dress- is by far the (The Perfect Boning) for Waists. first it makers and subject of boning can be quickly disposed of. collar-bones. Linings. girdles collar-sets. giving permanent shape To bone a waist Send for requires less than 10 minutes our Instruction Booklet with attachment for machine FREE When buying waist-bones. for all tailors use only the Warren Feather Boning.(J) BONING. as best known and most reputable boning on the market.

serves for any number of persons by simply changing the waist lining. you do your own dressmaking or have it done at your home you should by all means provide yourself with a Dress Form. near NEW YORK Nothing so good for skirt And base this little box tlwi S». For waist. not only as a means to secure correct and perfect lines and insure a well fitting garment. and enables you to study your own form while you work upon your own garments. reproduce your form. you simply inflate it inside your fitted waist lining and before you stands YOU shoulders.6th St. Write today for new illustrated booklet' "It's You. bust and hips with looking glass — — fidelity.(K) If DRESS FORMS. It is the practical invention of a woman and consists of a nonleakable air chamber made of specially prepared m and well covered rubber cloth. One Pneu Form. containing full description and prices. Pneumatic Form Company J. jjBK fitting and holds draping it all Page 39 . skirt and dress making and fitting or for dress repairing at home. nothing can possibly take the place of Pneu Form.. If you are ^eiiftxriii It's You The Wonderful Pneumatic Dress Form Sold In Many First Class Stores Pneu Form is the easiest and handiest dress form the world to manipulate. To make Pneu Form perfectly. It relieves you of tiresome standing hour after hour for fittings. but to save yourself the time and the tediousness of trying on your gowns." Edition H-I. Pneu Form is mounted on an adjustable standard rod which may be raised or lowered to the exact height desired. 557 Fifth Ave.

for during the tedious.making your own gowns there is no way without assistance that you can fit yourself without a Dress Form. stands without tiring. $5. conforming to any size or shape desired.00. If you sew. Euclid. $1.00. these economical prices. Pictorial Review Pattcis 10c & 15c Main EAGLE STAMPS FREE with Every Purchase Floor Euclid Page 40 . waist. hips. $12.50.00 and $15. a Dress Form of proper size and shape to aid you the form is always ready. Correct model bust and dress forms at $1.00. etc. and will last a lifetime. tiresome fittings you change position so often that you are liable to change your lines. With a dress form which reproduces your own lines perfectly you will be able to get a better fitting garment than if it was tried on yourself. — — t^ —of trying to see dress fits in the how your back or how —effectively by the use of the skirt hangs with the aid of a looking glass need no longer trouble you if you have a Dress Form of your exact figure. $8. Dress forms are now considered just as necessary just as indispensable to equipment of t . $10. simply and durably made. and the fit of your garment is of far more importance than the quality of the material. can be adjusted at neck.e sewing room as the Sewing Machine.00. $2. Skirt can be adjusted to any style and can be raised or lowered to any desired skirt length.50. and YOUR VERY IMAGE in lines and proportions can be reproduced with a Hall-Borchert and Majestic GUARANTEED Perfect Fitting Dress — Form — Every style included Adjustable and Non-Adjustable— of which we show a large variety for every purpose and figure.. and get the benefit of Notion Dept. Hall-Borchert's complete correct Model Adjustable Form is in every way up to date. $3. saves time and annoyance and its cost — many times over. Shears and Tape Measure. have a dress form by all means buy it at The May Co.50.00. main floor..

You should secure a Dress Form before attempting to make any of the up-to-date gowns. suitable and desirable effect can be obtained. should usually be chosen. and which is impossible to get when you fit yourself We show two of the most reliable reputable without one of these forms. Dress Forms made and your dealer will gladly demonstrate them to you. 1 COVERED tooR DE R ^ ^ of Second Door East Opera House Page 41 . if only a dash of it. colorless complexion must always study the trimmings and adornment of their costume and some bright color. tion entirely. for and own as well.the entire fit of your gown be of ruined. braids. but take a sample of your goods and go to a first-class dress trimming establishment and ask to be shown suitable trimmings for your goods and often you will find something new and attractive that in the ordinary way would have escaped your atten- The plainest. One can always procure such a variety of silks. that a harmonious. the fitted in the old. do not go to the first store you happen to pass and take anything that may be presented to you. are supplied with a dress today has neither the time or the patience to be manner. Cleveland Dress Trimming Company ^ V^ 4 6 Euclid Ave. laces. form. A person with a dull. tedious woman (L) DRESS TRIMMINGS. bands and special trimmings. When you have a gown or suit that needs trimming. whose beauty depend so much upon the graceful lines. their All first-class dressmakers desirous of saving their customers' time. most inexpensive gown can be made attractive with well selected trimming.

CHAPTER VII. same general instructions over seeking information and also taking SENSIBLE PLACES TO LUNCH EUCLID CAFETIERE 328 Euclid Ave. The bottom of the placket must be made secure on the under side. just far enough the garment. that you do not opening of the plackets. upper fold. Luncheon 11 to 2 NEW CENTER LUNCH CLUB 813 Prospect Ave. (Lesson the eyes sewed on the under facing and the hooks on the facing of the 53). P. your placket binding exactly after your pattern. SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS In the following lessons we teach you the right way of making each part of a garment and in the succeeding lessons whenever that portion of the article is to be made. Do not do it carebut see that your pattern is laid on correctly and pinned securely and that you cut accordingly. careful that every stitch that shows through on the right side be positive 5 and even. both edges of the opening must be faced. Home Cooking No Waiting Prices Reasonable M. F. your placket opening down exactly the right length. or in trying of the stretch the edges 4 — Be —Use belt. 3 — Be careful in picking up your skirt. 1 — Cut lessly. to get 2 — Cut easily into it on. Stretching these edges means always a full baggy look. 6 We most highly recommend the notch at the right place on — See that the placket comes to the exact your making a placket. The following rules must be observed. Kirby Building MAIN 1565 No Waiters O'Brien Building MAIN 3914 Lesson 63. Your skirt will never fit smoothly across the back of the hips if you do.— PLACKETS. only the best of hooks and eyes. The mark which reveals the inexperienced or careless sewer is more quickly and more likely to be seen in the finish of the placket than in any other part of your garment. confusing the one who is up valuable space with unnecessary repetitions. C. Wilson Hook and Eye. unless perhaps. it be in the making of the buttonholes. Don't have it too long nor yet so short an opening that you immediately tear open the placket. Page 42 7— In . reference will be made to the specific lesson treating of that particular subject instead of repeating the and over again.

Ohio Lesson 65. Skirts and dresses at present are made with high belt. Cleveland. for the draping of waists.A. A peplum is used instead of a belt or band or draw string to hold down at the waist and Page 43 . 3 With boning above and below the belting to form a pointed bodice into shape. If desired the belt or band can then be entirely stitched around.'V K I XI -r Safe Reliable Effective The Wonderful Cleansing. 2j^ inches wide and fitted by gusset seams and boned Lesson BELTS AND BANDS. — — — effect. especially as wide belting shrinks from one to three inches to the ward. but a peplum is much easier especially to fit.— BELTS AND BANDS. You can get the Grean Belt in three distinct styles: 1 Having bones as wide as the belting.— The belt or doubled or may However. For the Use of Careful Refined Women A A K^ C* A\ T\T l\ T"} ^ AA. For sale by all upon leading druggists or mailed to you receipt of 50 cents. A trial will convince you of its merits. for ordinary belting. For this purpose wide belting is used. No Married Lady Should Be Without This Wonderful Antiseptic SANAR REMEDY 746 Euclid Avenue CO. Healing and Soothing Antiseptic Ever Used for a Douche for Practically All Female Weakness Sanar can be used without fear of injuring the* most delicate or affected tissues as it does not smart or burn and is highly recommended by many of the most eminent physicians in this country. cut a straight piece double the width desired. have improved this method by offering a seamless shaped belt thoroughly shrunk. the Grean Co. 2 With bones ejecting above the belting. If double. Turn the top of the folded edge toward the garment and stitch. 64.band may be of one piece be of one piece lined or faced. Turn over the under edge and hem down to cover the seam on the inside of the garment.— YOKE AND PEPLUMS— A yoke is a very particular part of a garment to make.^.^XA. which is a feature not to be overlooked in wash dresses. The object of the bone above the belt is especially useful to unlined or loose linings as some of the material can be draped or attached to boning. If the belt or band is faced sew the straight strip and the facing together and proceed the same as directed above.

effect fitted. Opposite New Market Page 44 Etc. but cases a yoke must be most carefully 76). tight or will Care must be taken that the peplum not made too draw up and wrinkle. Rugs. yoke — attach collar (Lesson 66 or 68). fit and alter (Lesson 77). of the fashionable waists of today the is However. All alterations for the neck seam both on the shoulders and must be made from the shoulder seams only. Cut out (Lesson Baste up. For the seams. style many the peplum waist.keep in in proper position the gathers of the corset cover or waist. . across the chest in wrinkles let is too tight if or draws out from under the arm and too loose in the neck and across the chest take up the under the arms. fitting of the peplum all adjustments must be made at the joining is You should be it sure the pattern exactly the right is size about the waist before using. Ready-to-Wear. Sew up seams If If either by machine or by hand (Lesson 41). be entirely done from the shoulder seams If it The fitting of the yoke must and the small space of the under arm seams. COMF>AMY "Where things are as represented" A GREAT STORE ALWAYS BUSY Prices Always as 5"flK3 Low or Lower Than Elsewhere Dry Goods. is a part of the of garment and worn outside of the In is such not instances the in peplum must be exceptionally well any and all fitted or the good. West 25th. peplum — gather the waist or corset cover if it at the yaist line and put on exactly as were a skirt you were attaching.

' . Attach lining of collar to right side of garment and sew down by machine. i underpart.— Cut out (Lesson 76). . stitch. Collars" a regular //-^^\ A /i'/""" /A *J'f r'/x'f /'. on hooks and eyes (Lesson 59). 8. turning under the edge and carefully overcast (see Lesson 6). Press again. The tailored collars are rather difficult to is make 1. It is not necessary any more to make collars of cloth to match on the ' . Tailor-Notch < .— TAILORED COLLARS. "Tailor /ff. write us. 5.' ' \ vl | e_ 13C Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Company New York 327-329 East 34th Street. taking care the stitches do not show through. 3. 2.'/] . / / ' . in the A it perfect cut of tailored collars is shown above figure.--V/ • '. for the canvas cannot be sewed in the seam with the lining without making it a little bunglesome. 4 5 6 — Sew —Sew —Sew on all trimmings and ornaments. designed by Mr. 6. in collar supports (Lesson 60). Men's coats are never and invariably made in ' \ i \\ \ \ \ i /' ' ' ' 1 ' either black or grey cloth. * -. \f'i 1 / . cutting it out the seam's width from the edges. being careful to keep the goods and the canvas and the lining always perfectly smooth. which if is 3 necessary for the material which you are using. taking great pains that your stitches do not show any more than you can help and that you have entirely covered the seam of the underpart of the collar and that you have kept an even line.' v/m "-- / ' ' '\ \ * Collar. Lesson 67. If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealer's.in its proper place. You will find Orean Tailor Made Coat Collars beautifully shaped and pressed.— HIGH entire COLLARS. but if you wish to try to them yourself the following instructions should be followed: make Cut out exactly after pattern. . Accept no imitations or substitutes. Catch the edges of the canvas to the cloth with the catch stitch (see Lesson 11). so best to buy the under collars ready made. 9. Then bring the outside material of collar neatly and smoothly down. Lay right side of goods to right side of lining and baste. unless you are experienced in tailoring.' /'-'<> /jVA/ < 'C-'/y /. 4. Grean for those who find it difficult to shape an<^ ma ke the under-collar. We will supply you direct or through a reliable dealer and send you a catalogue of other dressmaking helps. 7.-JJ^C? Made Coat -^i ^hia is . Sew on trimming. W"-"^ made \ \ so. 10. Press very carefully. Baste in soft pliable French canvas after you have carefully shrunk it. Sew around the bottom edge and the sides and turn right side out. Large stitches and an uneven turn of the material of the collar would ruin the appearance of the most beautiful suit. sufficient 1 in collar to hide lining. 2—Turn seams around lining should be of cambric — Hem down with slant - Lesson 66. . so the canvas will keep .

personal The Acme College 1714 of Science its Adams St. 4 — If collar to attach of top to ment turn collar stitch. 6 If collar is to be left separate turn inside edges and neatly stitch or sew down by hand. are found throughout Lesson 68. and domestic qualities and your physical condition correctly diagnosed. 5 right right side side edge of to of garment and —Turn — collar under side of edge of and hem down neatly to cover seam. using the fine running stitch slant stitch (Lesson (Lesson 5). 1899 abilities. America. or the Page 46 . Toledo. Price $1. Ohio kind in The only incorporated College of Our students and satisfied patrons the United States and Europe.— TURN DOWN 1 COLLARS. 3 — If lined turn right of lining to right of collar.00. as Your character sketch three above stated and any questions scientifically and answered by mail. most pliable French canvas and baste it smoothly on the wrong side of the 2 — — Cut out (Lesson 76).YOUR CHARACTER SKETCH SCIENTIFICALLY GIVEN By the Expert and Noted Character Readers of the Acme Your perfectly defined College of Science — Incorporated under the laws of Ohio 1907 social Est. only If stiffening is necessary use cambric or the finest. and is stitch at outer gar- edge. 20). capacities. material. perfectly Strictly confidential. business.. softest.

— SHIRT WAIST SLEEVE. (Lesson 53). Many beginners think sleeves are the hardest part of the garment to put together. 9 Attach where notches of waist designate. the bottom terations. bottom of 6— Find the 5 1 and 3. 4 Hem. — — — — — Lesson 70. or face. and some are not. ends. 2 Baste 3 4 — — —Turn down evenly and sew on machine.PATENTED SHOULDER FORMS Shoulder Forms are used not for disfigured shoulders. and Construction Guide. The ordinary lap closing is made the same as the lap pocket. and fitters must use their judgment. gather sleeve.— Follow instructions (Lesson 69). as to what to use. 327-329 East 34th St. full- and tack again where the ness being most careful to have the notches come exactly together. if you will begin to fit by first placing the shoulder form in suchposition as you would like to have your coat appear. — Cut out. to the heaviest automobile and fur garments. See Cutting Guide. Mr. where the fullness starts. Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. in edges of other side. Page 47 . and Sloping. 10 Sew in securely on machine. Baste to cover seam and sew either by hand or on machine. at the notch where the fullness begins in the sleeve and turning the right of the sleeve to the right of the cuff tack to the notch in the cuff — For No. lay right side against right side of goods. 76). on and if Try al- necessary make (Lesson 77). but much of the difficulty is removed if proper care is taken in observing the directions and in- structions and paying strict at- tention to the 1 notches. Straight. (Lesson 48). 1Take a straight strip of the material. 3 Sew up seams on machine and press. except the opening of the sleeve where cuff is attached must be faced back. page 51. page 54. but for garments where a permanent and a good shoulder They add a perfect outline to all shoulders. are basted to canvas and you wA\ save a number of hours of alterations. Some are padded. They fit is desired. . pliable. — — of the sleeve or cuff. New York Lesson 69. 7 Baste together cuff and sleeve and sew in securely on machine. thin. 15c Per Pair Shoulder forms are made in different outlines. inside the coat. not noticeable.— SLEEVES. 8 Gather top of sleeve between exact notches. High. Grean has designed special shoulder forms for different weight of garments from the lightest weight silk and taffeta. (Lesson 2— Baste up seams..

and seven are omitted. except that the top of the flat coat sleeve. but instead of facing. are completed before attaching to sleeve. requires a little soft foundation. is an article used always by that have filling ever tried it. underlap put right side of strip to right side of sleeve 3 — Turn back and stitch by machine on both sides of strips. —Cut two straight strips. COAT SLEEVE. cuff. CUFFS— PLAIN BAND.— of Lesson 69. which is so much in vogue now. If fill and your dealer cannot supply you. CUFF. put damp cloth over and hold down firmly until you have pressed out all the superfluous fullness. New York is c Page 48 . 327-329 E. the bands are cut double width and turned back and hemmed over the seam which joins cuff and sleeve. The coat sleeve is made For this purpose the sleeve roll of the Grean Dressmaking Specialties will be found very useful. 2— lined turn right side of lining to right side of goods and stitch sides and bottom of 3 — Turn right side out and stitch again at the very edge of the —Attach as step 6 (Lesson 69). 2— For 4 and the stitch. 3. but outside of seam.— — Lesson 71. If more of the fullness than COMBINATION This AR1VI PAD all fitters Combination Arm Pad. plain The Band Cuffs are put on the same and CUFF— (Shirt They 1 Waist).. — Cut out exactly after pattern.— LAP CLOSING. The cuffs belonging to the sleeves are sometimes a little beginner. 4 5 stitch to than when cover seam.. cuff. —The coat sleeve is much simpler as steps exactly according to instructions of Lesson 69. • — For upper lap sew on in same manner. The latter is much neater and gives a more tailored finish the top piece of the cuff is sewed into the seam. turning the top of strip either with perfectly square corners or in a neat V shape. Baste inside of the sleeve. and put on edge of pressing board. if the material is soft you can press out the material is hard or harsh. It is very simple in construction. or you may — Attach sleeve to lining of the cuff and turn back right edge of cuff and If cuff. but a few suggestions mill make it plain just as 6 how 7 awkward for the to make them. Stitch your goods well over it. TURN BACK Make exactly the same as for shirt made of double length to turn back or instead of at the top. designed for the purpose of correcting the general hollow parts between the Arm Hole and the Bust. Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. except your cuffs are either are attached at the bottom of the cuffs waist six Lesson 72. write us and we will either your order or direct you to a reliable merchant. 34th St. The 1 lap closing as seen in sleeve No.

Since the tiilly now justly famous ZOA-PHORA LaGRIPPE REMEDY. it should be fastened as Measure one-eighth inch above and one-eighth below the slit and mark.— Persons suffering thus are martyrs to every change of weather. been made at the bottom and both sides of the lap. SoreThroat. and at the same time increasing the severity of the usual symptoms. throat. viz. except that their outer edge is usually joined in the facing or with the seam of the ruffle. For partial list see page 96 of this book. Hem tops and turn in bottom and both sides and stitch on garment. brow or cheek. Dr. is the only one very much in evidence these days. Dr. and results. Such you have in Zoa-Phora Cold Cure. hut showing its greater From these deductions. It does not operate on the douche principle merely drying up and washing out the secretions. Repeat this process until you have firmly secured the slit— then bring the thread through and work over and over. Back stitch the pouch into the slit of the garment and stitch on the lap. Cough. the Price 50c per bottle The Zoa-Phora Cold Remedy and the Zoa-Phora LaGrippe Remedy are for sale at 50c per bottle at alllfirst-class drug stores. The lap must be cut on an exact grain of the goods and should be lined with silk or some light material. These investigations. pain in the temples. tightness at the root of the nose. thus preventing a tedious and perhaps dangerous illness. symptoms. which treatment.: Sneezing. dullness of hearing and smell. back and limbs sometimes with chilly sensations and nausea— will almost invariably meet and control the disease. together with the use of certain remedies in the treatment of the disease. ZOA-PHORA COLD REMEDY Its improves the sight and hearing- most remarkable storing the impaired of effect is the clearing of the head. slit from tearing into the cloth. etc. Pengelly was led to formulate force on the weaker parts. and_ revoice. The pocket should be of heavy mercerized goods made into a pouch the desired depth. blurred eyes. The most trifling exposure renews the attack. Page 49 .—POCKETS. Then draw your thread from the top mark in a straight line to the bottom mark and back again on the opposite side of the goods. cough. sore throat or nostrils. Penhad been a careful student of its nature. Pengelly's Sure Shot) FOR Colds. letting the needle pass through the entire thickness After a row of stitching has of threads from the bottom mark to the top." More suffering comes from neglected colds than from all other causes.Lesson 73. but restores the parts to healthy action. if taken promptly on the first signs of the disease— known by aching of the head. The patch pocket. rendering the disease still more difficult to treat. headache. as seen in Lessons 87 and 107. convinced the Doctor that LaGrippe was (from whatever inducing cause) a sudden and general congestion attacking more or less the whole system. is very simple to make. Croup and Protection Against Pneumonia An old proverb says: "Never neglect a fresh cold if you would avoid sickness. A NEGLECTED COLD. To keep the follows: Zoa-Phora Cold Remedy (Formerly Dr. and stitch on the lap. Zoa-Phora La Grippe Remedy first invasion of the disease known as LaGrippe in this country. The lap pocket as shown in the figure of the coat in Lesson 96. back stitch the pouch into the slit of the garment. Sewing Apron pockets are made in the same way. A speedy and safe cure is invaluable.

but prevents its spotting and wrinkling so much. Wool goods should be laid right side down and a wet Repeat at ironing sheet placed over it and ironed until it is perfectly dry. Lesson 75. Simplex Mop Handle. but in case one is not at hand one must always.Shino Dust Absorbing Articles Reduces the Labor of Dusting and Polishing One-half. In pressing folds always see that the fold is perfectly straight. Shino Chemical Mitten Duster. Shino Chemical Floor Polisher. Ail 4" f* 522 ° Sweeney Ave. If you are not good at pressing it would be best to baste back your seams in their exact place until you get more accustomed to pressing them in place. or sent postpaid by the manufacturers. This is a slow process. Shino Chemical Handle Duster. and in pressing sleeves one should shrink considerable of the fulness that is apt to occur on the inside seam of the arm at the elbow. Page 50 . Wool goods should nearly always be sponged and shrunken as should ginghams and linens. When filled makes them The The The The The The The Shino Chemical Dust Cloth. just as a magnet attracts steel. Shino Chemical Dust Mop. as the result of a marvelous chemical process. Always have a good piece of cotton long enough to cover the entire seam. attract dust. but your goods will Ginghams and stay fresh and in shape long enough to pay for your trouble. Lesson 74. rinsing in warm water good as new. wring out and then press until dry. Ohio CHAPTER VIII. lint and germs. Shino Chemical Broom Cover. for a good presser can straighten out a multitude of little defects in sewing and stitching. especially anything with a mesh. to. Very thin goods should not be sponged Sponging not only helps your or shrunken. always remembering it is almost impossible to put too much good press work on a garment. have a hot flat iron conveniently near. r»l| Ine rioneerMrg. but twice is better.— SPONGING AND SHRINKING. especially in making a wool garment. Shino articles. Cleveland. f*. while a poor presser can make the most carefully put together garment look badly. Much of the beauty of a gown depends upon its pressing.— PRESSING. linens should be dipped in water in which has been placed a handful of salt. with dust. Dampen and iron till the cloth is perfectly dry then dampen once again and repeat the pressing. all Sold by good dealers. garment to hold its shape better. least once. An electric flatiron is a great advantage to the woman doing her own dressmaking.

just as an expert would lay it out in order to cut it from the least possible material. (See Department 6). we show their patent cutting guide. No chance of wasting an inch of material mistakes. and no Mistakes are impossible with this guide before you. No CUTTING GUIDE 4069 FOLD more than you OF 54 INCH MATERIAL WITHOUT Pictorial NAP' their need. 823 Superior N. 1 Before beginning see that you have every thing necessary to go ahead. Central 2259-L For prices on any Sewing Machine or Supplies PHONE or CALL on Expert Repairer will Call and Give Estimate Lesson 76. By courtesy of the CUTTING GUIDE 4-4/0 SIDE 6ftCK C^ POLO OP 36 INCH MflTERIflL WITH NAP BflO puzzling for hours to find how to lay out the pattern properly. Pictorial Review Co. No chance of cutting two backs or two fronts because a careless folder picked up two pieces instead of one. — Page 51 . It shows just how to lay out the pattern on the goods correctly and scientifically.Main 2189 SEWING MACHINE SUPPLIES AND REPAIRS BRYSON CO. CUTTING. cutting guide a child Review Patterns are error proof and with can lay out and cut a garment as well as an expert. One accompanies every Pictorial Review pattern. There is absolutely no chance of cutting one piece the wrong way of the goods.. E.— CUTTING GUIDE.

but get your own size otherwise the entire proportion of your garment 2 —Provide yourself style. to 2 P. your is thrown out when you start to make alterations. Main-2371-J C— 6417 r £ ar=H r=]G "N \ The Mandarin No.with a good paper pattern for your size and suitable to height and individuality. M. to 2 P. After Theatre Parties a Specialty Private Dining Rooms Reserved for Dinner Parties Special Attention Given Ladies without Escorts Our Kitchen is Open for Inspection to Patrons from 11:30 A. 622 Prospect Avenue ^n i — i i =ir=i i==i r=i i= ir^=: it=H Cleveland's Finest and Most Elaborate Chinese-American Cafe Shoppers' Novelty FROM 11 Luncheon A. and one chosen with due regard for the material to be made up and for the occasion of the wearing of the garment. Page 52 . M.M.M. Do not make the mistake of buying a pattern a size too large or a size too small.

right angle of should rub up. The nap should always rub down except velvet. and if your goods have a nap very strict attention must be given that the grain or nap lie in the same direction. Striped or plaid materials must be perIf the fectly matched so the strips run into the seams on the same angle. 5 If the garment has a lining cut the lining out first.your goods are wool or gingham or such as need attention follow directions (see Lesson 74). 6 Follow exactly the construction guide for laying on your pattern which you have altered to fit your figure. See that every piece is on precisely the — your material as designated on the construction guide. Cleveland . and fit it perfectly 3 If — — — before cutting into the dress goods. goods are 7 When the width of the goods will permit lay the pattern on the double fur or plush. 11 —Then proceed to baste together as is directed in Lesson 77. flowered or have a design see that it all runs in the same direction. being most wrinkles either pattern or goods. Ohio Selling Merchandise that bears the Stamp of Quality. 10 Then with tailor's chalk or with a colored cotton thread run a line showing all the marks and perforations of the pattern. 9— When absolutely sure every piece in careful to have it perfectly flat and — errors. for preparation. no properly laid on cut out with very sharp shears so the goods are not frayed or haggled and under no circumstances fail to cut out every notch indicated on the pattern. UnlO LakeWOOd. and will save you many possible is — 8— Pin down the pattern. at prices that are no more and often less than elsewhere Good Values Courtesy Page S3 Progressiveness . A RELIABLE STORE The Boston Dry Goods 8813-17 Wade Park Avenue 13592 Euclid Avenue 8601 Detroit Avenue 14712 Detroit Avenue Co.. then it fold. This is of vital importance to the success of your garment.-. and ac- cording to the construction guide. baste it up and make all necessary alterations of the pattern (Lesson 77). which furnished free with every Pictorial Review pattern. until you have made sure what it is and where it belongs. 4 Iron out every piece of your pattern and identify each section and if there is any doubt in your mind compare it with the similar piece on the construction guide.

— CONSTRUCTION. write us. Main 5283 Ground Floor 327-329 East 34th Street. But if you decide to make your own lining or foundation the following directions must be carefully followed. work and worry can be avoided by procuring the Grean Fitted Waist Linings and Foundations as it saves all of the labor of cutting basting. or through a reliable dealer. Grean System of Fitting. to be guided by the waist and not by the bust. FITTING AND ALTERATION. beauboned. Do not attempt to put your garment together without this construction guide. according to waist measure. We will supply you direct. It tifully BEACH GROVE improvements are being and homes erected. which protrude above the belting and are finished with hooks and This is the new eyes. New York Lesson 77. ONELLY 120. 2044 Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. 122 If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealers. is shaped seamless belt.. Take Euclid Beach Car to Beach Grove on Lake where all installed Shore Boulevard. show you Always Page 54 . specially for the summer or for warm climates. The" made with a wide. 121. and needs to be fitted only by adjusting the seams above the boned portions and on the shoulders. Williamson Bldg. constantly before you for it In the — CONSTRUCTION GUIDE 44JQ SLEEVE SECTIONS 'SIDE will BACK C plainly which pieces to join together and just where to join see that the notches correspond and that the seams are taken up on exactly the line shown and that each portion of your goods is in ar- them. boning. get off at East 152nd St. etc. or the one accompanying your pattern. and the upper part of coarse Net which forms just the right kind of a foundation for light waists. These are made in Black and White. #100 down and $10 month buys a lot 40x125 for $750. making of waists. Cen." "VOTES FOR WOMEN are not so necessary as 44 Greanet »» LOTS FOR Many WOMEN are buying Invisible Home of them Sites in Waist Foundations Are used in making light weight lace or chiffon waists where a t ght-fitting lining would be out of place. hours of time. putting on the hooks and eyes..

With a great many Rotary machines in order to remove the Shuttle one has to use a screw driver and take out three screws. Form Made wide of Finished handy tool to have around. r 35c at eyes Don't forget it! The White Rotary means more to you in a sewing way than you can think. and make See cut 4410. It's with another time saver which herringbone belting hooks and the busy operator will surely appreciate. put it together and fit it... for the effect lies in perfect lines and it is impossible to obtain these without good basting. all necessary alterations before cutting into the dress goods. If the garment has a lining. you don't care to use it unnecessarily. but naturally. but with the White you simply a very raise a latch. Your Dealer BOTH PHONES 426 Prospect Ave. for it takes time. We shall be glad to demonstrate it at any time.«e .American cordance with the diagram of your construction guide. Page 55 Sizes 22 to 33 inclusive Waist Measure. For Unlined Waists and Dresses USE Grean Shaped Seamless. Black or White ^. The greatest of care should be taken in the basting up of the seams of your garment. Boned Girdle A SCREW is DRIVER.Have rpT?T T TIVT/^'C 1 EEd lULLllMjiS ICECREAM? CONSTRUCTION GUIDE4069 French . cut it out. White Sewing Machine Co.

Monks Osteopathic Physician 302 Lennox Building Treatments by Appoin tmen t Res. Bell Main 3938 . Margaret B. Bell South 188-L Off.Central Dr.

being careful to keep a perfect seam line. Skirts must be altered in the seams. between shoulders or across chest or at neck or armhole.To alter for very straight figures. edges of the gores. for if too tight the skirt will wrinkle and draw. until you have a perfect fit. The same general instructions of careful work and perfect fitting and correct alterations apply to the making of all garments. well made gown. carefully but before the outside material is cut into you must know that your pattern and lining are both altered exactly right. and the same general instructions apply. Care must always be taken alter To for — — — not to take too large a seam across the hips. except the front and the front edges of the side gore seams. Begin six inches below the hip line and decrease the width of the seam. After you have properly cut and fit and altered the lining of the waist and measured and adjusted the pattern of your skirt. and its length adjusted from the bottom or six inches below the hips. Begin six inches below the waist line. Begin six inches below the waist line and increase seam gradually until the correct size is obtained about the waist. as alter. Baths Massage Madison. Begin six inches below the hip line and gradually take up the seam. and gradually slant to meet the side back seams. hole. If the hips are too small. much of the a hygenic and than absolutely necessary. Then follow the specific instructions of the lesson. To alter for large abdomen. 1 Summer Camp Apply to the 1 Open July 1 to June Systematic Exercise and Recreation Young Women's Christian Association Prospect Avenue and 18th Cleveland. — — — and backs. which you are following in making the garment in hand and you cannot fail to have a well fitting. Ohio Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister to Sept. but do not alter any seams to remedy this trouble. two inches below the lower line of the Square or Sloping Shoulders. extending each gore an inch at the top. than to alter the back of the skirt any more Fpr flat — the back seams. Electric Light and Shower Rest West Side Branch Franklin and W.If garment wrinkles. at the hip line of the front and side gores. 1 Boating Bathing Out of Door Life Turkish. Or if skirt must be enlarged at waist. that it is better to take up fullness as possible. —Take arm up a seam. Begin at the same point six inches below the waist and decrease the size of the seam. alterations must be made from the shoulder seams and arm hole. however. and let out gradually the seams the deIncrease also the side sired width. Gymnasium Open Oct. and fill in the hollow of the back by sanitary pad.. To take up skirt at waist. Begin six inches below the waist line of remembering. the necessary width. If the hips are too large. you will then be ready to cut into your dress goods. 32nd Lake Grove Farm St. Ohio Page 57 .

the wrinkles erased and the beauty greatly increased by the nightly application of these well known B. If your dealer cannot supply you we will send by mail. and gowns herself to express an innate sense of refinement and good taste. THE WELL GROOMED WOMAN.— CHAPTER woman The well harmony and appropriateness of groomed becomingly fineries is XII. postpaid. one who exhibits cleanliness. Schofield Bldg. OHIO Page 58 . Sold at drug and department stores. contains no chemicals.00 boxes. FROWNERS are for the lines between the eyes. & P. In fact the well groomed woman studies herself. on receipt of price. Wrinkle Eradicators. Seventh Floor. The skin can be made smooth. We cannot be this if our livers are out of order and our complexion anything but what we would wish open pores. but with her If she is inclined to be stout she does not wear plaids individuality and style. dress. fairy-like figures and a painfully thin woman does not show good teste in wearing stripes and such combinations as are supposed to be worn only by women desiring to reduce the appearance of their size. (Two Women) 1790 East 68th Street Cleveland. skin dry and is — Frank Dowd DENTIST LOOK OLD? Wrinkles are only skin deep. Scientific beauty culture means bodily and scientific —that to is. and above all her collar is always in perfect position and neatly fastened fancy pins or with invisible fasteners. Wrinkle Eradicators Simple. Both are put up in 25c. or reds or pinks or any of the colors or materials suitable only for slight. more our duty to ourself as well as to others to be all that is bright and healthy and beautiful. B. which make the face look old and cross are unnecessary— remove them with the Crown and Bridgework a Specialty B. dressed —her gloves. Ohio CLEVELAND. care or culture of that beauty which or less. It Mother Nature gave the wisest everyone. handkerchiefs She always has her hair neatly and and neckwear and all her are immaculately clean and no rips. leaves no marks. The well groomed woman's clothes are never loud or conspicuous and the colors always harmonize not only with the occasion for wearing. neatness. & P. eyes or buttons ever missing and her shoes are always clean Her skirts always hang evenly and her belt never is out of place or shined. safe. & P. at birth. tears or spots are ever visible and no hooks. CO. certain. including booklet on care of face. together with an appreciation of the appropriate either with and the beautiful. These unsightly. SCIENTIFIC BEAUTY CULTURE. telling marks of time. 50c and S1.

00. $5. $6. restores lined. withered skins to velvety SUPERFLUOUS HAIR TREATMENT HYGIENIC smoothness. NEW YORK. ph one G reeley 1 3475 Bond New St. $2. either that a gross ''double-chin" is beginning to form.50. discolored eyes to proper smoothness and fulness. for tender.50. Bottle. Faithfully used they accomplish the most wonderful results everything that is claimed for them. as they reach the CAUSE of all blemishes and re-establish by natural means a healthy complexion. Sometime we may be rudely awakened by finding. LONDON 92 21 West 38th Street. GANESH EASTERN BALM SKIN FOOD $3.00. sparkling eyes and a youthful contour. Electrolysis is almost painless. can be obtained nowhere else in the world. London. are the antithesis of "make-up".50. closes pores and alleviates skin flabbiness and puffiness under the eyes.00.50) lost contour. Bottle.00. including the Strapping Muscle Treatment. fills lows and removes wrinkles. by antiseptic $2.00. THIS PHOTO PORTRAYS THE GANESH CHIN STRAP ($5. lined. pendulous — MRS. dry skins. 75c. to become deeper day by day. $3. W. Rue Chauvain REGISTERED TRADE MARK Page 59 . and in consequence there are flabby. WRITE FOR VALUABLE BOOK containing list of all GANESH Preparations and Treatments and much beauty information and advice. $2. GANESH DIABLE SKIN TONIC. with a line like a big wrinkle. or that the muscles and tissues of the cheeks have become relaxed. These Imported Appliances.50. which removes double chin and and the restores GANESH FOREHEAD STRAP ($4. originated. which with maturer years will surely become a hard line between it and our original chin. illness and time. ADAIR'S GANESH TOILET PREPARATIONS AND FACIAL TREATMENTS obtainable for years only at her Salons in New York. Adair exclusively.unhealthy a state of neglect that makes the lines wrought by worries. owned and patented by Mrs. PARIS Cambo Cambon MIPP" ll*\_I-. — MAIL ORDERS FILLED for all preparations and appliances on receipt of cheque. $1. corners of eyes and over forehead.00. $2.50. on looking sideways into our hand glass. holGANESH EASTERN MUSCLE OIL braces sagging muscles.00. FACIAL MASSAGE.00) which cures deep lines between brows. TIRED EYE TREATMENT restores tired. $5. 75c. Paris and Nice. a splendid face wash. strengthens the skin. $5. $1.

is All foot troublespermanently relieved by scientific corrections under supervision of a surgeon. to which so many women owe their rejuvenated appearance. or any other cause. MRS. Cleveland. 0. and filling out hollows. sole • Ellsworth. Y. taught. effective treatment called the Ganesh Strapping Muscle Treatment.m. rounded contour is maintained in all its attractiveness by the support afforded by the fat beneath it to the skin that lies smoothly over it like unwrinkled satin.OH ^ > 1VIY FOOT . Our everyare graduates where. and loses its beauty of coloring. of treating tired. 323 Euclid Ave. Personal instructions by D. originators. adverse climates. Your skin is not a dead thing to be left alone it is a sensative part of you. and the skin falls into lines and furrows. In youth the soft. Stone's Shoe Store Send 12 cents sale all for sample. raises and gives back the youthful shape and appearance to the face. absorption of some of this fat takes place. 6U0 Madison Ave. it restores tone to the flabby muscles. teachers and the DeLong's Cucumber and Almond Massage Cream Used and recommended by Cleveland's best people. DeLONG SKALLA Dermatologist and Chiropodist Page 60 .. but nothing has ever met with anything like the instant and entire success of the wonderful. No woman need lose the shape of her features nor the grace of her figure if she practices the Ganesh Exercises and Treatment. Creme de Luxe 505 Hours S a. MAUD 716 Permanent Bldg. Adair's methods of reducing superfluous flesh. Call owners of Ellsworth System. Cleveland Recommended by N. for into place. it needs skillful. yellow or blood-shot eyes are marvelously efficacious. 1V1<i to 6 p. For stores. 0." which you may have for the asking by mail or in person at the parlors of Mrs. New York.. scientific and constant care. hanging on either side of the chin. Ellsworth All Facial of College branches beauty science V. altogether altering the shape of the face and adding years to our age. Beckman Bldg. be one of them and Let Me Give You a Sample lar ELLSWORTH COLLEGE 514 Permanent Bldg. of eliminating deep frown lines. Huron Bldg. which are so clearly and thoroughly explained in the interesting and instructive book. from illness. off. in 2462 -J bags.. Dr. removing lines. hollows are formed in cheeks and temples. Stone Prop. and Mine. There have been many treatments for the difficulties and for the cure of double chins. Adair at 21 West 38th them — St. 0. FULTON Manicuring and Chiropody Room 604 Standard Bldg.m. exposed to heat and cold. But when.KJ y- ' _• Creme de Luxe a delightful preparation to use in Does not wear place of powder. this even support of the muscles and skin is withdrawn. Buffalo. Toledo. "How to Retain and Restore Youthful Beauty of Face and Form. double chin and restoring a youthful contour. R. Makes skin soft and velvety. N. Mrs.

21 — Aprons. 26 Monarch Polish Not will fix it 29—Veils. especially if one is preparing their clothes in advance for the season or perhaps arranging for a trip or a visit or for some occasion where a rather complete outfit is needed. 17 — Negligee Gowns. 28—Jewelry. Often one does not know when to begin. Cleveland. 20— Housekeeping Gowns. — Evening Gowns. 25 — Collars. 12— Shoes. 10— Petticoats. Below we give a list which will help you in planning and serve to remind you of the essentials of every woman's complete wardrobe. Belts. accessories. but in all of which restores the original brilliancy and lustre to furniture. and least 10 per cent of your entire appropriation for incidental be reserved expend- BAIRD BROS. hardwood finish and hard- Polishes and wood floors. 15 — Dinner Gowns. 6— Sanitary Belt. Added too to these are the numberless trifles to tains a varnish dries instantly. 30— Scarf. — Corset Covers. 9 — Corsets. Ties. —Hosiery. — Union Suits. Conno acid or injurious ingredients. — Chemises. 22— Millinery. 0.THE WARDROBE. 27 — Coats. — numerous mention. —Furs. 24— Handkerchiefs. when the subject of renewing their wardrobe presents itself. 16— House Gowns. Large size bottle 25c at your dealers' money should itures supply your needs. Standard Polish for 35 years. & CO. 18— Kimona. pianos. 23 — Hair Dress. 13 — Traveling or Street Gowns. must be considered case an incidental cost in you to are planning all on just so much at A few drops on your dustcloth does the work. —Sanitary Skirt Protector. — Night Gowns. Mamma" 4 5 11 14 19— Bath Robe. 1 2 3 "Never Mind. Page 61 . 7 — Drawers. 8 — Brassieres.

are but few more ruinous habits than the use of safety pins and is There improvised methods character. you are unable to procure it from your dealer. in fact the foundation of your entire appearance to say nothing of your health and comfort lies in the well fitting corset. latest styles. N. it allows entire freedom and full expansion to the chest. for the fit of your gown carriage. lungs. POSTPAID. there are satisfactory. Webbing at Front and Back Wm. Order large enough to drop well down over hips. Sizes of Belts are actual waist measure. gown will (C) SANITARY BELTS. heart In other words it will allow one to dress according to the and stomach. the same as with any ordinary corset. At All Dealers "W.. We at all times recommend the Berthe May "Hygie" corset as we find its hygienic and physical advantages cannot be disputed. F Manufacturers For Comfort 40 Lispenard St. like many other corsets do. of fastening and your outfit not complete without a belt of this have carefully examined the W. that There is one small as article no woman should be they without but they either belt Sanitary Belt. Ladies Improved Sanitary Belt and we have found no better on the market. and while supporting the bust. many makeshifts on they are the market. carefully made garment look its best. your entire wardrobe that should be given more There is no the grace of your careful attention than your corsets.(A) CORSETS. that the choice and judgement of the most experienced corsetiere should be consulted. Wright & Sons Co. So much depends upon this one point. instead of pressing it down. E." High Grade Elastic Ladies' Improved Sanitary Side. send us his name and 25c for sample belt. B. Dept. If sizes 22 inches to 48 inches inclusive. but a well made can not only be worn with comfort but can be easily adjusted and will prove secure. neither will the most expensive. as it does not constrict the waist and is designed and cut on the idea of supporting the abdomen. your article in — not fit perfectly. to 48 ins. — We A Standard Pattern with our improved "Never-Slip Clasp" ( Patent Applied For ) Requires No Safety Pin Easily Adjusted in sizes Absolutely Secure Made 22 ins. inclusive.&N. & N. but without the torture. and that is a are most unwill unless properly constructed not stay clasped or will not hold the napkins in place. New York City Page 62 . for unless your corset fits your individual figure.

The Ama Sanitary Skirt Protector is an article especially desirable for the present dress. 117 purchasing. 22nd.00 and $2. odorless. but have never before been able to secure in an ideal form. have doubtless often realized. O.(C) SKIRT PROTECTORS. Always recogour United States. nurss people it is almost indispensable. less Beware of worthimitations. Page 63 . We recommend the skirt protector as one that will give entire satisfaction. If you get a good one you can wash unless a sure protection is afforded.00 each qualities. Call and let us demonstrate this article to you. and theatrical The excellent material used guarantees its wearing is made in medium large size selling at Price 50c. as flexible as fine linen. is every woman's wardrobe. For misses and business ladies in mode summer of ladies' attire or evening dress. The Ama Sanitary Skirt Protector has so many c salient featur. fit and durability. THE AMA Sanitary Skirt Protector Patented Sept. $1. CLARENCE BUILDING CLEVELAND. and press it and always have it in perfect condition. sanitary skirt protector a necessity to A AMA PSmmfW^ An article every is *^&™ woman will of welcome market THERE now on the the needa ready-to-wear which you wardrobe acce:sory. made with lace net yoke affording perfect ventilation and can be readily laundered. 1908 This garment and This article is fully protected Sanitary Skirt protector will be mailed to any address in the receipt of price the Upon Ama by patent. women. tourists. for one is never safe at certain times to wear their gowns and dainty underwear. nmde of a high grade white rubber muslin. It is absolutely waterproof.s that it cannot be ex elled for com ort. nize trademark before A1VIA CO.

Even though the edging and insertion be of fine lace or embroidery it will greatly add to the beauty of the garment to have at least a small floral design of hand work. gown as the waist There is nothing that ruins the entire appearance of a out of place above the belt line or perhaps showing a dividing line between the skirt band and the waist line.. 17th St. hat for business. with so much pleasure at one's leisure time if handy with the needle. but great care should be used that the selection be one that exhibits taste. feathers and flowers. should wear a waist supporter in order that a good about the waist can always be relied upon. when wearing a waist that is separate from the skirt. S. at back. style and setting of one's face and features. Little rubber The "LOOP-HOLD" Shirtwaist BELT corrects a common fault in dress. CORNER SUPERIOR AND 105TH THE WARNER HAT SHOPPE considers it possible for every woman to have an Individual Style A Gift all Shop and Tea Room can be found Novelties in Art and Needle Work (D) MILLINERY. Metal parts cannot rust. New York Page 64 . Pat'ee &Mfr. great improvement over old style belts. 1/ not at dealers. Price 15 Cents. elastic sides. both French and Domestic. 15 E. on receipt of price. Self-acting buckle stays put. chemise. Every careful dresser. No sharp points to hurt fingers. effect There is no better (F) LINGERIE.ARBORj TEA SHOP Earner flat ^oppe where 6541 Euclid Avenue Exclusive Models in Dress and Tailored Hats. refinement and a respect for the shape. but for church and theatre wear one A may branch more elaborate and trimmed effects and can satisfy and decoration of ribbons." take double hold without undue pressure. the street or traveling should be selected of one of the soft plain shapes with simple trimming. and if possible hand embroidered in any of the beautiful designs which can so easily be procured and done. graceiul. The night gown. sent postpaid. Many make these garments entirely by hand. Dept. skirt supporter on the market than is shown below. held in by patented " loop. corset covers and drawers should be of dainty muslin or fine linen. Price 15 Cents at Department Stores AGENTS WANTED DAVID BASCH. off into the their eye as to color (E) SHIRT WAIST SUPPORTERS.. Simple. practical. but the majority of women Waist Cannot Be Displaced pyramid "Units" grip and keep waist from riding up.

be a cloth a rain-proof fabric of "Cravenette" proof is a process which The process permeates every fibre renders a cloth or garment water-proof. rendering the cloth permanently rain-proof, and rain will then of the yarns, You can have your coat, suit, wrap, or neither wet nor spot the garment. motoring garments made from the Priestley Cravenette Cloths, and you will If you are obliged to be out in all kinds of find your needs perfectly met. weather, rain or shine, you should by all means have a "Cravenette" rain-coat. We specify "Cravenette," because a genuine Cravenette-proof coat contains no rubber, is porous to air, yet rain-proof and has not the disagreeable odor common to most raincoats, and too, there is not the stiffness of the material, which renders many of the rain coats so undesirable and unattractive. The Cravenette-proof process leaves the cloth just as supple as before and every The main point to bear in fibre of the yarns is made thoroughly rain-proof. mind is to get a rain-coat that is strictly hygienic, keeping the dampness out without preventing ventilation. However, if you are only out in an occasional sprinkle or shower, a rain-coat is unnecessary, but you should have a street

(G) RAINCOATS AND people imagine Cravenette some sort but such is not the case.



or business or traveling suit



any of the Priestley cloths of serviceable

and wearable mohair suitings, serge, chevoit, whipcord, etta, which you can get "Cravenette" proof.




to Tell

This circular

registered trademark

Silk y^^y^pti^^fiyci^ Labe


stamped on the inside and a sewed at the collar or elsewhere.

None Genuine Without Them
The )££L~,.

applied to many kinds of cloth suitable for outer garchildren's men's, women's and ments in light, medium and heavy weights for seasons of the year, and are for wear in rain or shine.

" Rain Will Neither

Wet Nor Spot Them."

They con t ain no Rubber, have no

disagreeable odor; will not overheat or cause perspiration.

For sale by leading dealers in Men's, Women's and Children's Clothing.

t^Q^/ft2^t§#., Lt4
Bradford, England

Hoboken, New Jersey

postal to the

Bradford, England

New York

office of

B. Priestley


Co., 100 Fifth Avenue, will bring interesting booklet.



is all

right in


place, but



annoyance, and more than that, when it gets on goods that you are anxious to keep clean. The oil cup on the White Rotary prevents all trouble of the kind. It's a trifle, but

by attention to the little things that make the White Rotary the very best machine you can buy. Our terms will surprise you by their
it is


White Sewing Machine Go.
426 Prospect Ave.


Lesson 78.— CORSET







nainsook, muslin, sheer lawn, linen, or any thin fine material.
tucks (Lesson 54). Join seams with French seam (Lesson 47).


Hem Hem


peplem and


Gather at waist line son 64). Finish neck and armholes with embroidery scallops (Lesson 22), or face on right side with very fine embroidery. See Lesson 53.) Embroider any desired design (Lessons 19-25 inclusive). Make eyelets and run in ribbon to hold in fullness (Lesson 25). Close with small buttons and buttonholes (Lessons 29-30).

(Lesson 65). and make band of goods or of beading for belt (Les-



Cut out (Lesson


Join with either plain or French seams.

(See Lessons 41 and 47.)

Face both sides of opening (Lesson Face around top for belt (Lesson
Put on




Make buttonholes (Lesson 27). Sew on buttons (Lesson 30).

Page 66

have not the time to put so much personal labor on their wardrobe, but the character of a woman is more easily discerned by the daintiness, prettiness and completeness of her lingerie, than by the beauty or elaborateness of her best gowns.
In France, a bride has never less than 12 pieces of each article of underwear beautifully done by hand work and exhibited with great pride to all her

buying and making these garments that your lingerie with care will last for many years to come, and you can afford to put more time and expense on them than on your outside garments that change style, color and design to suit every whim and caprice of fashion.



Lesson 80.— CHEMISE. Procure a good chemise pattern and make exactly as instructed in (Lesson 79), on the making of night gowns.
Lesson 81.— NIGHT GOWN. Cut out (Lesson 76). Join with dainty French seam (Lesson Embroider neck and edge of sleeves (Lesson 22), or fact on the right side with any desired trimming of embroidery or lace fine (Lesson 53). Embroider desired design. (See Lessons 19 to 25 inclusive).


Make eyelets (Lesson 25) neck, and draw about through ribbon to adjust




Lesson 82.— COMBINATION UNDERGARMENTS. Cut out (Lesson 76). Fit carefully (Lesson 77). Join all seams with French seams (Lesson 47). Set in yoke (Lesson 65). Put on beading and edging (Lesson 57). Sew on ruffle (Lesson 56). If for open drawers face both sides of opening (Lesson 53). Close with small buttons and buttonholes (Lesson


Page 67

for it is the dainty feminine expression of lingerie and negligee garments that expresses the refined womanly tastes and will prove of pleasure to you so long as they last.Lesson 83.— PETTICOATS.— SKIRTS AND UNDERWEAR WITHOUT PLACKET. and means will permit. The material can be of large figured silk. and where the fullness commences make a slit on each side and insert a tape. Make buttonholes (Lesson 29). drawing it through the slit on the opposite side. Have plenty of white skirts plain or elaborate to match your other lingerie of your outfit. QBE Lesson 84. Join ruffle (Lesson 56). DRESSING SACQUES AND KIMONAS. Face upper edge of the garment (see Lesson 53). soft flannels or in fact almost any pretty Have your negligee gowns as attractive as your skill fabric may be used. house and evening gowns. Face top (Lesson 53). Hem (Lesson 48). challie. but have them made the proper length to wear with your For your sireet. Stitch the facing down securely. heatherbloom or even a good quality of sateen is preferable. Parrish Funeral Director Bell Phone. Page 68 . silk. dimities. GUI Chapel in Connection Jay P. business and traveling gowns. Join seams (Lesson 41). The slit should be carefully worked with the button hole stitch (Lesson 24). East 135 1738 East 55th Street Cut out (Lesson 76). lawns. fleece lined goods. Sew on buttons (Lesson 30).


not go to the



Kimonas and Art Laces"
Call At
before buying ?

and Save

150 The Arcade
See Our Beautiful Designs and Get Our Low Prices

Lesson 85.— DRESSING
Cut out (Lesson


Lay Sew

pleat in back.



bottom (Lesson

Gather on


Face collar (Lesson

elbow and shirr around

waist (Lesson 55), and finish with dainty
of bright ribbon at the waist.



Lesson 86.— KIM ON A.

Cut out (Lesson




seams on machine.


bottom of garment (Lesson

Make yoke and attach (Lesson 65). Make sleeves and put in (Lesson



Face edges and sleeves (Lesson



facing should be of satin or



ing shade of the same or a lighter material.

-page 4-

overlook the


scientific drugless treatment


Page 69

Lesson 87.—APRONS.

Aprons are the simplest of all garments to make, No. 3857 is especially easy to make. Cut out goods (Lesson 76). Face all edges (Lesson 53). Make pocket (Lesson 73)." Make one buttonhole and sew on button (Lessons 29-30).

No. 3180 requires a little more time and effort. Cut out (Lesson 76). If embroidery for ruffle, bib and pockets is not used hem ruffle (Lesson 48). Face bib and pockets (Lesson

Put on ruffle (Lesson 56). Put on pockets (Lesson 73). Gather and join bib to skirt of

Put on band (Lesson 64).


Is This the

Condition of

Your Nerves?

Is that the condition of your nerves? If so, your system is just like the violin shown above; utterly unable to perform the work for which it was intended. Until there is an improvement in these conditions, there is no chance for harmonious action between the various organs of the body. The office of the nervous system is to control and direct the vital forces. If the nerves are not strong, healthy and in proper tone they cannot do this work any more than can the violin give forth sweet and melodious music when "all unstrung."

You Do Not Need



a Nerve STIMULANT, But a NERVE Food. a Nerve Food and Strength Builder.

At the same prepared especially to build up and strengthen the nervous system. time it purifies the blood and regulates the circulation, so that the nerve centers may distribute the vital forces to the organs in need. If you'are only slightly nervous, you ought to take ZOA-PHORA at once and thus thwart the onward march of the disease. If your nerves are already in such a shattered condition that they are threatened with nervous prostration, ZOA-PHORA will give you relief and strengthen your nervous system.

Read Page

95 for the Special



Page 70

Lesson 88.— LINGERIE WAIST. Choose your pattern and
follow the instructions of






making by

selecting the

desired design and effect and mak-

ing according to
Sleeves, Lesson 69 or 70.
Collars, Lessons 66, 67 and 68. Yoke, Lesson 65. Trimmings and Finish, Lessons 54, 57, 58 and 62. If a Lining is desired make according to Lessons 76 and 77.


Lesson 89.— HOUSE KEEPING GOWNS. Your house keeping gowns should be of percale or gingham or some wash goods so that at all times you can be immaculately clean. Have them made plain and simple so they can be easily gotten into and also have your aprons large, and of a material that washes neatly. Use instructions (Lesson 76), taking steps according to numbers; X-l, X-5, X-7, X-8, X-9, X-15. Then put on facing about sleeves, neck and down front and belt (Lesson 53). Now hem skirt (Lesson 48). Sew on buttons and make buttonholes (Lessons


Easy to Pay the Rosenblum Way"

For Man,
or Child



pays the bill

We Make Good Unsatisfactory Purchases We Never Misrepresent

M. Rosenblum

Credit Clothing Co.

2014 Ontario St. Cor.^hamplain
Mr. Rosenblum Himself



pays for both at all stores where they give them). and stitch on both sides of pleat. you cannot fail to develop your Page 72 . Jewelry. We do not have any collectors. and attach or put on neck band (Lesson 64). — — Make buttonholes and sew on buttons (Lesson 29-30).— SHIRT WAIST. Upstairs Lesson 90. 8 Make collar (Lesson 66). Hundreds of are added to our already large patronage every is There We We is a Reason — High Rent District. & Pacific Tea Company's Store 2165 Ontario Street. Coats. growing by leaps and bounds. 3 Fit and make any necessary alterations (Lesson 77). Suits. Dresses.—A shirt waist is something it seems no one has too many of they are so useful and so necessary for so many occasions and can be constructed of such a variety of fabrics and in such a wide range of styles. 1 Cut (Lesson 76). Our operating expenses are low.00 a Week Payments Complete furnishers — Hats. turning to the specific lesson as indicated. By following these instructions carefully and faithfully. Waists. 6—Make sleeves and attach (Lesson 70). All Goods Sold on $1. —We will give directions for making gown 4533 as contains nearly every element and requires the explanation of nearly all points of dressmaking. 2 Join with plain seams (Lesson 41). etc. and leave collar loose. — — — — — — Hem the underside of the front closing. CLEVELAND CREDIT CLOTHING Over Atlantic CO. front and back. 4 Form box pleat in right front. 9 Lesson it 91. Skhts. Shoes. — Gather at waist 5 7 line in and attach a belt or stitch bias band to hold gathers secure. do not handle any premiums nor give trading stamps (the customer. The quality of our merchandise is the best and our guarantee of absolute satisare not in the faction is given with every sale. of course.There Must Be a Reason Why our business new customers month. — GOWNS.

Ptawi 3fttBtrufitum .

REVIEW The Pictorial Chicago Paris Review Company St. housekeeping. and in many other subjects which are of vital importance to her daily living. are written by experts and their information is practical and daily useful. They make the so-called "fiction-magazine" unnecessary.16 17 — Face bottom of skirt (Lesson —Sew on hooks and eyes (Lesson 53). find that she considers "home" to be the city. a necessity in every home. departments on cooking. You had better subscribe now and find out about our magazine and our patterns. home decoration." It covers every range of woman's activity completely. in the politics which make taxes high and her rent accordingly higher. With these departments before you a magazine devoted wholly to housekeeping is a needless extravagance. 59). It is Its suggestions. tasty dishes described in PICTORIAL REVIEW'S COOKING DEPARTMENT. The up-to-date American housewife is a thinking woman. state and nation in which she lives. She is looking for more information constantly and PICTORIAL furnishes that knowledge. Charming Lingerie Frocks Smart Street Toilettes Afternoon Dresses in Foulards and Taffetas New and Fascinating Evening Gowns An Alluring Assortment of Lace Blouses in the New Casaque and Peplum Styles The PICTORIAL REVIEW is not wholly a fashion magazine although it carries more and better styles than any fashion magazine published. The household departments in PICTORIAL REVIEW. plain. She is very properly interested in the schools which her children shall attend. believe that the real American woman does not consider "home" to be just the house in which she lives. 39th NEW YORK Page 74 . For To be Dressed Styles in the Latest Fashion Select Your from the Season's Number The PICTORIAL REVIEW FASHION BOOK For sale by The May Costs only 5c When Purchased with a 15c pattern For sale by Co. If you wish to please your husband's palate just give him some of the good. The fiction stories in PICTORIAL RE- VIEW The are equal to the very best you can get anywhere. marketing. materia! Any ornamentation suitable to the occasion to be worn may be used.. in life insurance which cares for her REVIEW We We when the bread-winner is suddenly taken away. New York London Headquarters: Louis Berlin San Francisco Vienna St. In short. PICTORIAL REVIEW is "The Magazine for Women. The May Co. special articles in PICTORIAL are on subjects of interest to women. etc. 222-224-226 W. its ideas will save much more than the cost of the magazine for a year.. and in harmony with the an evening gown the upper portion of both lining and material of the waist can be cut away. making as low or as high cut gown as desired.

or as magnificent as her station in life demands. yet sometimes the other extreme is met. and they should be as simple. but for younger women prettiness and daintiness and attractiveness should be the aim rather than richness. Lesson 93. .—EVENING AND DINNER GOWNS. elegance or elaborateness. Phones 4598 Central 1379-W . except the breteile is crossed in the front instead of the back. For making see Lesson 91. and the panel is used instead of the — GOWN — all-over flounce. when the same amount of money expended in two or three simple evening frocks would have constantly served to the pleasure and needs.Lesson 92. Every wardrobe should hold as many evening gowns as the individual will have need of. and a number of cheap inappropriate useless garments purchased when one good garment of a more suitable nature would have been a better investment. for a season 30. Select carefully your materials with a view of perfect keeping with social demands and associates. as often too elegant evening gowns lie your unused and unenjoyed. Main . 'Make exactly according to Lesson 91.

Boarding Home Transient Accommodations Employment Bureau Travelers' Aid .

Lesson 96. them in medium weight variety to suit tailor suit.00 GREAN SHOULDER FORM & PAD CO. you will notice that it is It is not only a foundation over a complete coat front. and at the top. but well tailored and firm enough to support and retain shape permanently. a wide button hole stay runs the whole length of the coat. 327-329 E. The foundation for the front of your coat or jacket is very important. in the shoulder. but a tailored made coat front. to will make find a Those who are unable good tailor made front Grean's Tailor Made Coat for Front Foundations to be almost a necessity. but you can detect cheap worthless coat front foundations by their stiffness. 34th St. Tailor-Made Coat Fronts Foundations are distinguished by their beautiful shaping and tailoring and every season the shapes change according to the prevailing To those who have found difficulty in making coat fronts for themfashions. you will find a Grean patented Shoulder form.— CLOAKS AND SUIT JACKETS.. made of white French felt and edges of the best herringbone hair-cloth used for center stiffening. They are made of the best material appropriate for this purpose and are thoroughly sponged and shrunk. from the short Eton coat to a 32 inch length coat so much worn now. which can be purchased for much less than one can Accept no imitations or substitutes. from the lightest silks to the heaviest automobile garments. all heavy winter selves. are protected with a white linen stay. but the difference Some tailors sew cloth and canvas tolies chiefly in preparing the fronts. for a tailormade coat or jacket. it will be a good lesson and example to study Grean ready made and tailor- made make coat front foundation. New York Page 77 . A good sized arm-pad surrounding. which the cloth is placed. There are several methods of making jackets and coats. must have more in it than an ordinary piece of canvas without preliminary preparations of careful sponging and shrinking. The present styles demand soft coat fronts. 50c to $1. They are all very soft and pliable. will find coat.. which is usually nothing but glue. They in are a made variety upsuit to-date styles to different coats.Made' ' Coat Front Foundation By examining the drawing alongside which shows the inside view of the Grean Tailor-Made Coat Front Foundation. gether and some tailors use fronts of canvas prepared separately to fit the outside. "Tailor. These tailor-made coat front foundations are made in different weights and lengths. lightweight silk or velvet Grean suits and fur garments. themself. If your dealer cannot supply you write us immediately. You requirements. in and renders it unfit to be used your garment. but it is also part of a pattern by which one can be safely guided.

— 8 Baste goods over lining and try on and fit perfectly (Lesson 77). and press seams open. IS — Again press the entire garment. GREAN SHOULDER FORM & PAD 6 CO. 2 5). We will supply you direct or through a reliable used in garments where a coat front of canvas has been already used but has is extensively altering dealer and send you a catalogue of other dressmaking helps. There is 4 — Lay on goods (Lesson 76— to — Cut out lining (Lesson 76— 3 — Baste up lining seams (Lesson — Fit and make necessary alterations (Lesson —'Cut outside material (Lesson 76—6-11). made of Hair-Cloth. 10 11 — — — Make and put pocket — Put in lining right side in 5). in any style or manner desired. 16—The trimmings can then be sewed on. 5 Short Coat-Fronts Short Coat Front. press and sew turning in the lining to 13 — Make collar and attach (Lesson 67). nicely finished garment and the saving of doing this work yourself will allow you to put extra money into a better grade of material than otherwise you could choose or you can practically buy the goods for another suit. You can purchase made at any of our advertisers carrying Grean dressmaking supplies. out and attach with very small slant stitches (Lesson 12 cover the seam. No work or stitches should be left visible on the lining. —Make buttons and buttonholes (Lessons 29 and 30). 3). 327-329 East 34th St. all 77). beautifully shaped and used in either short coats or long coats where only bust reinforcing is necessary and If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealer's.. 9 When an exact fit has been obtained detach from lining. 35 to 50c 50c lost its original shape. strict attention to the By paying Page 78 . 14 — Make sleeves (Lesson 72). for much of the beauty of the coat or cloak depends upon this part. write us. and press (Lesson 75). in. NEW YORK — Baste ready in these bust forms of hair cloth or soft canvas. above directions you will be able to work out a well fitting. 7 Join seams of lining.no more particular work in dressmaking than the proper tailoring of a jacket or coat and you should never attempt to make one of these garments in a hurry. 1 1 5). sew up seams in desired manner (Lesson 41). (Lesson 73).

has been found. but the comfort of the individual to a large extent depends upon these two things. a tated parts. reliPRICE. safe.. They contain Nerve Tonics ANTISEPTIC which are absorbed into the Blood and VITALIZING COHES Give Vitality to the Whole System. The Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing KALAMAZOO. Proprietors. MICHIGAN. They allay Inflammation and heal the irri71. Page 79 . The Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones have in the past years permanently relieved thousands upon thousands of women and the price of a month's treatment for 50 cents makes them within the reach of all. 50 CENTS. ^6. but in in- stances the clothing must be loose and comfortable and both the dress and underwear should be Special attento supported tion from the shoulders. Ten days' treatment will convince you that no matter how serious your condition a positive relief Sample free upon request. P^t^£L. Read on the last page of this book your druggist' special offer to you of a free ten days' treatment of these Cones. MATERNITY OUTFIT. ZOA-PHORA CO. CHAPTER XIII. L able and effective. Beware of dangerous imitations that contain mineral and poisons and which have'no established fifty reputation. Cones are a female suppository. as not only the appearance. The herself outfit an expectant mother prepares for entirely depends upon what her duties all require of her during this period.ZOA-PHORA Antiseptic Vitalizing CONES Are for local treatment and are antiseptic in their action on Diseased Tis- sue and Unhealthy Conditions. must be given the matter of corsets and the lining of the gowns.

in a normal condition. enables women to dress as usual. and yet with its own particular advantages. Prices from $5. The most celebrated maternity corset that has come to our notice is the Berthe May "Lucine" corset. 10 E.BERTHE MAY'S Maternity Corset The only corset of this kind made for its own purpose. thus affording the comfort and safety so necessary in a weakened condition of the abdomen. and it can be reduced to a normal size and worn as long as desired after the child is born. abdominal support at all times. New York (98)— MATERNITY CORSETS. but she should never wear the ordinary style and cut. BERTHE MAY. Mfr. It is manufactured to be an absolute safeguard against all accidents for the mother as well as for the child.. and allows the mother to dress as usual. as it can be worn at any time. to preserve a normal appearance.00 to $18.. and upon examination and investigation we find that the "Lucine" corset is so constructed that it can be worn as early as wanted.00 Write for free booklet No. together with photographic reproductions and full information. which can be opened successively when more room is needed. as her own health and that of her child would be materially injured by such a course. Physicians use it in their own families aud prescribe it to their patients. thanks to its exclusive and It procures an absolute simple system of gradual enlargement. 15 Which will b. to deport herself with the greatest comfort. to be used whenever needed. to preserve a normal appearance and to attend to their every -day vocations. No — Page 80 . as well as during the maternity period. sent under plain envelope. expectant mother should go without a corset. and to attend to her customary vocation during the whole term of her pregnancy. The Lucine corset can be made gradually larger when wanted. the same as an ordinary corset. A maternity corset must combine as an abdominal support and a corset in fact it must be a protection to the abdominal walls against too great relaxation and yet must serve to give grace to the figure and to make it possible for her to go about and be active during the entire period. through a system of inside plaits of the material. on account of the healthy support which it gives both the abdomen and to the back. Orders by mail filled with absolute satisfaction because of my perfect yet simple measurement system. 46th St. Every woman should have this corset in her wardrobe.

necessary. tion at the top for lengthening front and sides. 3916. MICHIGAN. The instructions found in Lesson 91.. will forever convince you that to suffer with this disease is positively unGo to your Pull directions in each package. Lesson 100. and the dart seams either side from the shoulder faced back (Lesson S3). list of of time and 50 cents for a full month's treatment well-known meritorious effective Remedy.— MATERNITY GOWN. how serious your case you will find the ZOA-PHORA PILE the one safe. and an extenskirt making. except the lining is finished altogether differently. See cut of lining at top of Fig. and a very pliable. falls is eyelets (Lesson 25) on both sides of all three openings. reliable and satisfactory treatment. make this gown perfectly.Lesson 99. and lace down with linen or elastic The band from which rather loosely fitted is the front of the skirt from exactly under the necessity to enlarge. easy stretching elastic band is used for the belt. is arms where there but little Allowance must be made that enough goods left at the top of the skirt to extend the front and sides will as the figure demands in order that the skirt hang evenly all way around. Ohio full line of druggists who handle the Zoa-Phora Remedies Page 81 . - Zoa-Phora Ten minutes of this Pile Remedy PILE ZOA-PHORA KALAMAZOO. 50 CENTS. Instead of making starting in the usual way the lining has dart seams from the shoulder and the center of the neck. and extending to the bottom of the waist lining. druggist today ana procure a month's treatment before your No matter disease becomes more deep seated and chronic. but it is seamed and faced and finished the same as given in the regular lesson on It should have a good sized pleat at each seam. REMEDY— known See page 96 for ZOA-PHORA REMEDIES COMPANY. Make lacing. Proprietors. PRICE. The opening down is the front shoulder is hemmed back. A IT /*phOHA (Trade Mark. Sample sent FREE upon request. for making.) QA~rt X REMEDY CO. See instructions (Lesson 76). maternity skirt is cut after a special maternity skirt pattern. Cleveland's best Toledo. Accept no substitute.— MATERNITY SKIRT.

— Combination corset 1 combination 3 covers and -WOMAN'S FRIEND FOR drawers. 16 17 Read our Special Offer Page 96 of this Book. You will find on the following pages suggestions of appropriate styles for your gowns. as it will give you all the beautiful curves and angles without the discomfort and danger of the modern corset. We would recommend the Berthe May "Hebe" Corset. To the girl after her who is away from home wardrobe we have made out a most useful in list or the one without a mother to look of necessary articles and you will find the list planning your wardrobe. — — Night gowns. Special attention should be paid to your corsets. 18— Corset waists. build up the tissues^strengthen the nerves and put the entire constitution in harZoa-Phora is monious condition. by wearing a badly fitted corset. 15 —Collars and ties. 11 —White petticoats. Pengelly's pri- 13— Millinery. nervous. for during the pliable age. enrich 4— Handkerchief s. 1 vate prescription for women. 10 — Party dress. opiates. All of your garments should be simple and Page 82 . — House gown. sickly girls and women. for every girl entering womanhood. together with complete instructions for the making of them and if you are a wise girl you will begin with the first lesson of this book and master every point of plain and fancy needlework for it is one of the most refined acquirements possible for a gentlewoman to attain. Do not make the mistake of going without sufficient underwear and of a quality to give you sufficient warmth and have all of your lingerie plain and dainty. 20— Cloak. 6 7 — Petticoats. 4 5 Growing Girls For over 50 years Zoa-Phora has proven an invaluable remedy to meet the needs of weak. 8— School dress. suits. Zoa-Phora is Dr. Get your shoes of sensible style and thickness and large enough to be comfortable regardless of the season or fashion. belts and acces- sories. 21 — Furs. purely a vegetable compound no alcohol. while you are growing you can seriously injure yourself and your health. — Light warm woolen 2— Under vests. — Shoes. 19 — Sweater.CHAPTER IV. — Hosiery. THE SCHOOL GIRL'S WARDROBE. 12— Hair ornaments. especially~compounded to purify and the blood. narcotics or other dangerous or harmful drugs. — Bath robes. 9 — Church dress.

edge. whose natural charms are beginning to wane. — GIRLS SCHOOL shirt waist DRESS. whose youth and its natural qualities need no artificial adornment. made exactly on the same principle as a lady's dress. Follow instructions for (Lesson 89). Skirt (Lesson 95). and without collar Lesson 101. the material if embroidery omit omit Xll.girlish.— ting GOWN if 3911. OHIO West Side Branch Franklin and W.— Make has exactly according to Lesson 91. GIRL'S DRESSES. sensible. dainty garments will win for you a thousand fold more admiration than magnificent. as nothing is more unattractive than rich elegant garments worn by a sweet faced girl. 32nd Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister Choral Classes Bible Classes Page 83 . Collar (Lesson 63). shown is one widely approved of and very popular for graduating. omit- hemming. Lesson 102. and if no lining X2— X6. CLEVELAND. Piano and Apply to the Junior and Industrial Mandolin Lessons Orchestra Practice Young Women's Christian ^Association Clubs Prospect Avenue and East 18th Membership Parties St. party and summer dresses. Remember immaculate. gorgeous effects suitable for the stage or at best for older women. Follow instructions for making as found in LesGirl's dresses are The son style 91.

. collar 68). either 47). so we do not take up space in giving this instruction. and linens. plain (Lesson 41). O. In the latter instance the guimpe or sleeves it and yoke should always be of wash goods. ginghams. seams. clean. but in the winter either underwear heavy enough to fully protect the child from the cold must be provided or woolen dresses of serge. bot. ones daintily dressed and Lickes Drug Co. Cleveland. Physicians recommend it. Every mother desires to see her little this requires 12 oz. Quickly cures Croup. At Druggists. bot. 56). Prevents bronchial diseases. $1. The main goods such as point in planning children's garments in is to have them as plain and appropriate as possible. piques. severe Coughs.. Make 54). percales. Used in Cleveland Orphan Asylums 20 years. pared for Whooping Cough.00. Lesson 104. novelty goods or any warm material must be worn. or French seams (Lesson Make Make Make ruffles and attach (Lesson (Lesson 48). more labor and is care and expense than usually figured on.— CHILDREN'S DRESSES. Page 84 . Hem Close (Lesson with dainty buttons and small button- holes (Lessons 29-30). poplins. every instance possible should be of wash etc. There is perhaps no department of WHOOPING COUGH DUNHAM'S SPECIFIC. repps. flannel. M'f 'rs. Especially pre- sewing where an economical wife and mother can save to more advantage than in by doing the work herself the making of the children's clothes. sleeves and put in (Lesson 69).CHILDREN'S CLOTHES. 5 oz. all tucks in goods before cutting (Lesson Cut (Lesson Close 76). 50 cts. so that It is can be kept perfectly hardly economical to make boys clothing after they leave the "Buster Brown" period. Colds. Shortens and lightens the disease.

is edging used overcast on neatly (Lesson 57). A child's coat is made the after the same general instead principles as gown. seam hidden by the facing 4483 Page 85 .— CHILDREN'S WAISTS AND DRAWERS. S3). is The cape joined at may be lined or unlined and the neck. Put 64). bottom of (Lesson Hem If . and sew on buttons (Lesson Fasten up back with washable buttons. band on drawers to (Lesson make buttonholes button on waist (Lesson 29). Sew line a bias band around waist 30). Face waist armholes. drawers (Lesson 48). 47). the of the collar. except shoulders a of ruffles over the cape if desired may be made. Lesson 106.— CHILD'S COAT. and make buttonholes or sew on loops of elastic cord. French seams (Lesson neck.Lesson 105. Cut out (Lesson Join 76).

comb and safety pins. and how many of each article to make. one coat. she usually prefers doing much of the work articles The Page 86 . three wrappers. six night slips. pared: three (white). To it ^3800 is the prospective mother. three petticoats petticoats (flannel). brush. one diaper cover. and if mother has the time to spare. six pair hose. (Lesson 64). INFANTS WARDROBE. so below we will give a list of absolutely nec- garments and articles together with an idea of about the number of each that the average expectant mother should have preessary Six dresses. six bibs. usually a question as to just what they are to make. one veil. — ROMPERS. Put on collar (Lesson 68). and a layout containing all necessary toilet articles. Gather at knees. three sacks. — Every mother should with rompers. for they are a comfortable. infant's etc. Make pocket (Lesson Make belt 73). Sew up straight seams (Lesson 41).BELLE VERNON MILK the Best Milk Lesson provide her 109. especially one expecting for the first time. tal- cum powder. six pair bootees. CHAPTER VII. sensible garment for the little one to play in. Make sleeves (Lesson 69). child and saves the mother much care and thought concerning his clothes. one cap. Cut (see Lesson 76). one kimona. three dozen diapers. little necessary to a child's wardrobe are very simple and easy to make. six bands. three pinning blankets.

Sew on buttons (Lesson 30). Make and put in sleeves (Lesson 69). Sew on lace or fine embroidery edging (Lesson 57). and made as daintily as possible. Bibs should be of double thickness. Sew up seams (Lessons 41 and 47). embroidered or neatly bound with pink or blue ribbon. the Mother's Health Should Be the First Consideration. but it should not be worn at all times as the ordinary waterproof diapers are not porous enough to let the air properly to the child's body. Cut (Lesson 76). be more vitally important that the organs of maternity of the mother be in a perfect state of health and strength to undergo this trying ordeal? The expectant mother should begin to take ZOAas soon as pregnancy is known from time to time as needed according to directions. both flannel and the dainty white ones are made under same instructions as Lesson 105. A rubber diaper should be made for protection on occasions § when you are traveling or taking your child away from home. This treatment is a positive aid in maintaining a good condition of health during confinement. The coat. Hem back the fronts (Lesson 48). While Preparing for the Coming of the Little One.— The dress is made the same as instructed (Lesson 104) child's dress except very much longer.— MAKING THE INFANT'S OUTFIT. Make and attach collar (Lesson 68). The little flannel jackets are made in one piece and the edges should be The night gown. or if lace or embroidery edging is not used you may feather stitch around the edge of the collar and down the front on either side of the buttonholes and many prefer to feather stitch the hem (see Lesson 18). Hem bottom of skirt (Lesson 48). and should take regularly during the last month of confinement and for one or two months after birth. follow instructions for making child's PRINCESS SLIP. the edges turned in and finished with an edging of lace or feather stitched.Lesson 110. Kimona (see Lesson 86). (see Lesson 106). Make buttonholes (Lesson 29). Diapers should be made of good cotton diaper cloth. gown (Lesson 104). CAN anything than PHORA Read the Special Offer as Given on Page 97 Ex pectant mothers can not afford to be without Woman's Friend Page 87 . and neatly hem by hand. The petticoat. cut square. quick and easy delivery at birth. and a rapid recovery of natural health and strength afterward. of Birdseye linen or Canton flannel.

for a process or chemical that removes the spot from one material will set the stain in or ruin another material. M i(. You can do considerable for careful consideration mShT- ^!S>wb CLOTHES kept beautifully clean and in "crisp CUMMER'S Perfect (JAflVAS freshness" by every J^RESSING dainty housewife WITH CUMMER'S ffltCUMMEflPHODUCTSCO CltVEtAIO.0»«> ENERGINE I 'SHOE OMOINATION DRESSING" GOOD AT ALL C STORES wuwmu moms cs i ei«n.«m.CLEANING. The cleaning of clothes and accessories of the dress is often a problem. CUMMER'S SHOE DRESSINGS The Proper Dressing For EVERY Shoe Ask Your Shoeman Page 88 . must always be given to the nature of the spot and the material.

THE UNIVERSAL DRY CLEANSING // it isn't CO. there are many garments your articles in good fresh condition. Grass Stains: Must be removed with alcohol. so the main point is to alcohol that removes the have your cloth well saturated with the alcohol. then wash in tepid soap suds and proceed as lor removing blood stains. If the spot is still moist cover with sugar. Then follow directions as for removing blood stains. silks. and rinse thoroughly in clear tepid water. which will clean woolen goods. Rub pure lard on stain and leave for a few hours. Soak in cold water. We give you in these pages the addresses of first class establishments. or if the ink — — — — Page 89 . furs. laces. General Offices and Laboratories \2\$ tO 1230 East 71st St. and it should always be kept on hand to keep However. stain and not the rubbing. Blood Stains: Soak the stains in cold water over night. salt or flour until you have absorbed all the ink possible. and then rinse in ammonia water. Grease Spots on any fabric. "Universal Dry Cleansing" It isn't the best. if the goods can be boiled. leathers. where you can depend upon your work being properly done. dip It is the a cotton cloth into the alcohol. feathers and almost anything cleanable. Cocoa Stains. Fruit Stains: Follow directions as for removing coffee stains. that must be otherwise your article may be returned to you ruined. soak the stain in salts of lemon. Nevertheless you will need a few suggestions for removing the spots and clothes and which you may desire to stains that are so apt to get on your try to remove yourself. Boil from 20 to 30 minutes. and Delivery Service. kid gloves. or if on white goods. it should then be put in very hot water. then wash in tepid soap suds and proceed as for blood stains. dry cleaned. Brass Stains. then rinse and wash carefully in tepid soap suds. Ink Spots: There are many ways of removing ink spots. felts. and care should be taken to select a reliable place. and good laundry soap. in which has been added a mixture of equal parts of "Elwako". Auto Call Call Us Up —Phones. If the article is such that it can be boiled. woolen. Down Town Store 532 Euclid Avenue your own cleaning at home by using Cummer's Energine. then pour boiling water through the of perfectly — — — spot until the stain has entirely disappeared. if the stain is on a washable article. or if on heavier goods. Coffee Stains:— Do not soak or put into soap suds until boiling water has been poured through the cloth until the stain is removed. then wash in sweet milk and rinse in clear tepid water. silk or cotton can most effectively be removed with Cummer's Energine full instructions for its use are found on the bottle. rubbing until the stain disappears. If on thin goods pour out a little alcohol in a bowl and rub out the stain.

and then rinse in clear cold water. Cold on the Lungs. then wash in gasoline or benzine. Rust Stains may be removed by soaking chloric acid a diluted solution of hydro- and rinsing in clear cold water. Bell Phone 2192 / [J Cleaners for Particular People Edd y r ^*^/S-r T s**n f^k C-5 Cuy. Catarrh and Colds in the Head. Eruptions.Zoa-Phora Balm No Family Supply is Complete Without Known Ointment---within easy reach at this Well Diseases. Spots: — Rub out in kerosene and wash in tepid soap suds and rinse in clear tepid water. then wash in benzine or gasoline. Or you may soak the stain in salts of lemon. For Chapped or Cracked Hands. and one ounce of chloride of lime. Phone Crest234 - W ump ^^ Z/^» ^§S3S3Rgg0r Page 90 Prompt Service We Call For and Deliver 13256 Euclid Avenue and 13430 Euclid Avenue . Chafes and Croup. Boils. Blisters. Bruises. or rub out the spots in equal parts of turpentine and alcohol. if the material not rub wet borax over the spot and rinse in clear cold water. — Mildew: Soak in buttermilk spread on grass in sun. Insect Bites. times Common Skin all i D rice Zjc rer oox Off D D • ALL FIRST CLASS DRUGGISTS will supply you has dried wash out the ink stains in the milk and rinse as above directed. removed or the colors clear. if Wash with cold water and a pure white soap. than to attempt to do the work yourself. Oil: for 24 hours. Piles. Tea Stains: Vaseline — Follow directions for removing coffee stains. or to a pint of water add one-fourth pound of sal soda. Scorch Marks can be effectively removed only by sunshine. Machine will wash. all Children's Sore Throat. or oxalic acid until the ink has been removed. Rough Skin. Burns. Perspiration until the stain is — Stains: Sponge with a weak solution of hydrochloric acid. — and Paint Spots: Rub with vaseline until paint is softened. Iodine Stains can best be removed with chloroform. rinse in clear tepid water. soak the stain in this solution for half an hour. then wash gently in tepid soap in — suds and rinse in clear tepid water. but as this is a very dangerous drug to work with it is usually better to send your garment to a cleaner. or turpentine and ammonia. Scalds.

90th Street Cleveland. in fact making them in many cases. like many other dyes. do not crowd the goods. They are easy and simple to use. the result will be a green. Snow Flake Hand Laundry The Cedar Cleaning Works Cleaning. it becomes discolored. Princt 2906-L . two or three 91 . the goods may be put back in the same dye bath. table covers and various other articles may be dyed and brightened up. so that it may be taken out from time to time. but keep them moving by stirring occasionally with a wooden stick. instances a few precautions in dyeing you must always follow. do not throw away the solution until goods are dry. Boil from one-half to three-quarters of an hour in a bath containing soap.North 776 Cent. you can use the same dye for any vegetable nature. Many old or shabby garments can be dyed and renovated and made over and months of service gotten from them. before putting in the article to be dyed. and dyed a deeper shade. same shade. There are in all which you are about to dye has nearly as much effect on the result as the dye you use. 7420-R Doan 337-L Res. Peacock Dyes are put up in collapsible tubes. rugs. ALL WORK GUARANTEED Fannie Hamlet. and are much cleaner and dyes. thus saving It is advisable. 2336 E. as it is The color of the impossible to dye a dark colored fabric a lighter color. Do not expect to dye a dark piece of goods a light shade. Unlike the old-time easier to handle than the old-fashioned dry powder whether it be of animal or dyes. Phone. and do not stain the hands. In taking goods from the dye bath. and see the result. if cotton or silk. so that it takes day to wear off. piece of material in with the larger pieces. fabric. changing the water when times. where without dyeing they would be useless. When dying. Ohio DYEING. appear as good as new and that at but a few cents of expense. to put a small time and additional expense. when dyeing. If. Old and worn curtains. The best plan is to try a small piece of goods fabric first. the probable result. When several pieces are to be dyed put in the dye bath at the same time. it is always best to discharge or remove as much of the old color as possible. Dyeing Fine Lingerie and Lace Curtains Specialties and Feather Work 2420 Cedar Ave. to see if the desired shade is obtained. This can be accomplished by boiling the goods. for instance. Prop. they should all be otherwise a variety of shades would be the In discharging or removing old colors from material that has been previously dyed. without removing the article itself. you have a yellow dress and use a blue dye. Page if necessary. so that in case the desired shade is not obtained.

owing to article is put into the bath of some of new color. old color come discharging when will not PEACOCK DYES For Home Dyeing THE ONE DYE FOR ALL FABRICS For dyeing Cotton. color from wool. By the use of Peacock Dyes in the household a great many old. no soap should be used. as the newly dyed material the bright and uniform.. worn and shabby Clothes. Rugs. Peacock Dyes are put up in collapsible tubes. Linens. Basketry. Feathers. Wools.When removing soften the wool. making them appear as good as new. Raffia. may be dyed. Curtains. FULL DIRECTIONS ON EACH TUBE. Mixed Goods. making them much easier and cleaner to handle than the old fashioned powder dyes. etc. as of old color is it tends to The removal very important in dyeing articles out the that have been previously dyed. Chipped Straw. Apple Green . etc. Silks. Tablecovers.

and that it makes white clothes WHITE. that articles washed with last twice as long as when rubbed. which does wonderful work. sufficient for four family washings. It is invaluable ELWAKO ELWAKO IN It is YOUR LAUNDRY WORK sold by most Grocers. is not a Soap nor a Soap Powder. S. with full directions for using. 0.LAUNDERING. or those ot a dainty. Page 93 . get a If he does not keep it. In this present day of good laundries the hardest and most laborious part of the work can be sent away. postpaid. One 25 cent can will clean any common sized rug or carpet without rinsing or removing from the floor. ELWAKO Elwako Manufacturing Co. Cleveland. It contains no Lye or Acid. You must be most careful in this SETTLES THE WASH-DAY QUESTION NO LYE NO ACID WILL MAKE YOUR CLOTHES CLEAN*WHITE WITHOUT RUBBING SOLD BY GROCERS YOU SHOULD USE ELWAKO Because thousands of other women have in your weekly washing. It is a scientific Washing Compound to be used in connection with any good Laundry Soap in accordance with directions printed on each package. delicate texture or color. and will not injure any fabric.. whether they be Table Linen. If you are not now using it. not gray or yellow.. or perhaps some pieces which one prizes very highly and one desires to have done at home. a package of regular size. Ask your grocer for it also. 1120 Prospect Ave. and restores all the original brilliancy of color without injury. Cents in stamps and we will mail you. Bedding. Curtains or personal apparel. send us Ten package from your Grocer. E. learned by practical experience that it saves the hard labor of rubbing and dispenses with the washboard. yet there are always numberless small things. We also manufacture CARPET CLEANER.

Then always use a good laundry aid. acid or substance of any' kind which will injure the most delicate fabric. bluing and good starch and if possible have your clothes hanged out of doors. Second. Fifth. and it will make your clothes clean and whte with a Further.'' as it positively contains no lye. — Put fill one-half of this mixture into a washboiler containing very hot water and Fourth. —Boil two tubs of tepid from 20 to 30 minutes and wrinse thoroughly through one or water and then through bluing water. that you get on bargain counters. blended. one which will First. and soak white pieces in cold water over night. We suggest the use of "Elwako. the boiler with the clothes. you have a good laundry soap many of the cheaper soaps. line. and coarser from the finer you have a large number of pieces. for a badly laundered article is worthless to a particular or refined woman. but over night better. Seventh. where they can get the full benefit of the air and sun. are worse than worthless. wrung out of the cold water. least being sure that the corners are well fastened. You should first see that remove the dirt and stains and germs without the unnecessary labor of rubbing.work. as they will turn your clothes yellow and fade and cause the colors to run. for you can wear your articles out more by rubbing them over a rough washboard than you would wear them out in a week of almost constant service. sprinkle with tepid is tightly and leave for at one hour. . North 975 Central 3280-W Prospect Avenue and East 14th Street A Particular Laundry for Particular People Cleveland Ohio Page 94 . taking precautions to always keep the garment it form or you may render unsightly by ironing out of shape. — Sort over your clothes. blow about and tear or become stretched out of shape. be careful to get good saving of labor. water and roll —When —Iron dry. sort the and wash the finer first. time and wear on your clothing. in perfect with great care. — Shave in soap together one small cake of Elwako and one bar of any good laundry three pints of water and boil and stir until they are thoroughly Third. being sure that nothing with if a color in it is put with the all-white clothes.— -Starch and hang on so the articles will not Sixth.

No expense is spared in modern medical science are used in its its Zoa-Phora is not a secret formula. Maiden. or any dangerous or 5. tonic to carry them safely through the various changes of womanhood. It is manufactured only of the best and most valuable roots and herbs known to science. are not afraid to publish to every woman and to every physician and to the whole world. but Zoa-Phora is 2. give Zoa-Phora a chance to do its good work. patent medicine— not some dope handed down by an the prescription of Dr. Zoa-Phora does not contain minerals. — on the market. asked hundreds of times daily honest Before using a treatment a sensible woman wants to know what she is using she is perfectly justified in demanding an honest and straightforward answer. harmful drugs. write us. Zoa-Phora contains only the best and purest Positively the best ingredients preparation. Wife. Zoa-Phora begins at the seat of your trouble and builds up every part of your body. If compounded your druggist has no free box for you have him With the purchase of one Dollar-size bottle of Zoa-Phora the bearer is entitled to a full ten days' special treatment of the Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Cones which the Zoa-Phora Company are supplying the drug trade free of charge for this purpose. Zoa-Phora is one of the oldest reliable preparations on It has. It is indeed (Woman's Friend). We to cure. therefore. Zoa-Phora is Nature's own restorative and cure. Page 95 . narcotics. Present this coupon to your nearest druggist. It does not make "drug fiends. composition. In addition to the splendid tonic effects of Zoa-Phora many women need a good local treatment and in order to encourage the use of our Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones in all cases when needed we are making the following offer of a full Ten Days' Treatment of our Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones (further information on page 79 of this book). known to of drugs. The following indisputable evidence will convince the most skeptical of the merits and value of Zoa-Phora. just what Zoa-Phora is compounded of." as do some of the cheap. 7. for nearly women. No alcohol in it to Zoa-Phora is excite the nervous system and make you feel fine for a few hours and then leave you weak and exhausted. When you know what Zoa-Phora really is you will be convinced if you are suffering with any form of disease peculiar to women. rational. and you will then know to your own satisfaction and benefit just what Zoa-Phora really is. If you want to be cured. No opiates or narcotics to suddenly deaden your pain and in time ruin your nervous system.— WHAT Is IS ZOA-PHORA? is Zoa-Phora" THIS question "What women seeking asked by intelligent reply. one of the greatest Specialists of his age in the treatment of the diseases of women. Zoa-Phora contains no alcohol positively not one drop is used. relieved and cured the very worst forms of Female Trouble and ailments peculiar to women. Zoa-Phora is a vegetable compound. Does not this prove that Zoa-Phora is beyond question all that it is claimed to be? Write today and we will send you a copy of its formula. that you have found a treatment perfected to the limit of modern medical discovery. and given entire satisfaction. Mother. plain. Zoa-Phora 3. 1. a satisfactory. 6. does not make drunkards or a craving for stimulants. and Grandmother find it the best woman's especially the sexual organism. 8. Our remedies are used by the thinking class of women throughout the United States and we are giving you a few reasons why you are safe in choosing Zoa-Phora in preference to all other remedies and why you are guaranteed satisfaction. — of diseases of the market for the treatment 50 years. Pengelly. opiates. inferior preparations Zoa-Phora is not an ordinary ignorant layman. 4.

50 . which means one Zoa-Phora (Woman's Friend) wrapper and your choice of any one of the remedies in Number Two and one from Number Three. 1 - Number Number Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Pile Zoa-Phora (Woman's Friend) 2 - $1. full line And in Lakewood and Detroit Avenue the of Zoa-Phora supplies can be procured from Lindsley Drug Co. fully warranted. 18503 Detroit Avenue Go today to your nearest druggist and procure the remedies you need and send the faces from the packages direct to These beautiful teaspoons axe of the favorite Narcissus pattern. best triple plated. 15621 Detroit Avenue Ludwig Pharmacy. The Zoa-Phora Remedies 1803 Co. FULLY WARwill be sent you by return mail. OHIO .50 Remedy - Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones Number Balm ----3 - ..25 . 11600 Detroit Avenue Alford Crocker. Standard Drug Stores Purity Drug Co. and will wear a life time.50 .50 - - . You can procure Zoa-Phora from every including the first class druggist in Cleveland.DEC 19 1912 One Set of Silver Teaspoons Free To Users of Zoa-Phora Send us the front of the carton or box from any one of the packages in each of three divisions below arranged and the full set of RANTED TEASPOONS \L SIX TRIPLE PLATED. 16924 Detroit Avenue Dole. 4706 Detroit Avenue Wilson Drug Co.25 .25 - Not One Cent to Pay for the Teaspoons Now or Later Send us the three wrappers or cartons as indicated above. etc. Adams Street Page 96 TOLEDO.. Marshall Drug Stores The May Co.25 Digestive Tablets Stomach and Liver Pills Anti-Constipation Pills - ..00 Cold Remedy La Grippe Remedy .


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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 080 524 5 .

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