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New York Page 1 . nor after hours of tiring effort obtain the perfect they insure. HEAVILY COVERED WITH PURE SILK FLOSS. boned. write us. or lace waists on high. C— Tailor made.^ DRESSMAKING SPECIALTIES Without Shoulder Form Long ci loulder Ready] cms Made Pitied "Waist Lining EAL. 15 cents a pair. invisible. B— Produce of any shoulder effect desired. white your waist. 15 cents a pair. D— "GREANET" InvisibleV&isi Foundaiion ] E— Perfect rust F— Very SilkCovered armhole. Work and Worry almost finished lining for tight-fitting waists. and the Professional Dressmaker. cotton. has Collar Support at If you cannotobtain GREAN SPECIALTIES We supply you dealer and send you will your dealer's. Money.. "G" Co. clever pad. 00. on new principle. You cannot make anyone of these essentials for anywhere near the price. Carefully manufactured of best materials for correct tailoring of garments in prevailing styles. shaped. chiffon. greatly improve appearance garment. A— Perfected. lias hooks and eyes. Bray. guaranteed collar supports. Use one or all and fit Coat Fronls \ Save Time. pliable. A loose-fitting net lining for light. in transparent envelopes. not bust measurement. PRACTICAL HELPS FOR THE HOME or Made / . seamless belt. washable. Write Dept. ready for draping. for short coats. sealed to insure cleanliness. SI. silk *l DO. Order by exact size of Linolawn. proof. or nlack percaline. 50 cents to $1. Black or white. Designed for the trade and now sold in leading Dry Goods Stores everywhere. silk Corsica. (new). $3. Grean Shoulder Form and Pad 327-329 East 34th Street. if Money you are not satisfied.50 to $4. direct or through a reliable a catalogue oj other dressmaking helps. boned with hasted seams ahove. 75c. 3 for 10 cents. has hooks and eyes.00 (CSS) Eton front.00. of thoroughly shrunken linen canvas reinforced with hair-cloth and felt..open front or hack. fills in usual hollows around overlapping padded points for shoulders. very helpful in altering or reinforcing fronts. white or black. (1) front for long coat. 5 for 15 cents. 75 cents. back. 35 and 50 cents.

Sewing on Lace or Embroid58.— Slant 6. ".— Chain Stitch 9. -WORKING INSTRUCTIONS. Emblems and Monograms — Eyelets — —To and Eyelet Embroidery 14 16 16 16 16 17 17 18 54. Stays and Collar — Putting Supports — Marking of Linen and Underwear — Embroidery Designs in in . Chevrons. 57. 32. 36. Cleveland. (£. Page 21 21 21 .—TO HOLD THE GOODS 3.— Hem Stitch 17. Page 5 6 30.IttHtntfittfltt —loral Beginners' Voices Carefully Built and Trained lira. Make Buttonholes 20 — ery Embroidery — Setting on Lace or and Eyes — Sewing Hooks 27.- 12 13 13 13 — Cording — Seams 42.'.— French Knots 14. 47...— Feather Stitch 19. and Overhanding 7 7.— Blanket Stitch 24. 4.— Button Hole Stitch 25. . 35.— Cable Stitch 10.— Tucks and Pleats 55.— PLAIN AND FANCY STITCHES..—Satin Stitch (French broidery) 8 37. 48. 49. 22 22 23 24 24 24 24 24 24 24 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 51.— Welt Seam — Lapped Seam — French Seam — Hemming —To Hem Corners — Damask Hem 46..- — Sewing on Buttons — Loops — Darning — Stoting — Patching — Overhand Patch" — Bands and Folds .— Double Folds 38. 27. .'. 3.'. 23. 14.— Couch Stitch 1 1.— Milliner's Fold 39. 26. 60.— Catch Stitch 12. Ohio CONTENTS 1.— INTRODUCTION 2. EmIS. 5. 2.— Piping 40.— Felled Seam — Bound Seam — Strap Seam 45.— Long and Short Stitch 20.. GUjrato Nutnttan IpII Eaat 541 13TB East mtlf fctrwt COATES SEWING AND DRESS MAKING MANUAL Published by Coates Advertising Agency.— Fagot Stitch 13.— Punch Work 16.— Damask Stitch 16.—Ruffles 26.— Embroidery Scallops. 59. .— Solid Embroidery 21. 4..'. Lesson 29. 31.— Cross Stitch 18.— Outline Stitch 8.— Braiding 28. — Knot —Running Stitch — Basting — Backstitch — Overcasting Stitch 6 6 7 7 7 33. .— Rolled 53. — Facings — Gathering Hem 26 26 26 26 27 27 22. 41.- 61. 52.— Shirring 56. 8 8 9 10 10 10 11 11 11 43. 44. 62. 34.— Seed Stitch 1 5. 50. 27 28 28 28 29 Copyright 1912 by Lydia Trattles Coates Page 2 . Lesson 1 .

.5410.— Tailored Collars 68.— MILADY'S WORDROBE (A) — Corsets (B)— Sanitary Belts (C) — Sanitary Skirt Protectors. 64. FOR 42 42 43 44 45 45 43- Kimonas 87.— High Collars 67.— INFANT'S OUTFIT Lesson — Making the Infant's " 107. —The Young Lady's Dresses — Maternity Outfit Wardrobe 9. (B) — Scientific Beauty Culture 5811. SHRINKING ING. 16.. 79. — AND 48 48 49 MATERNITY OUTFIT. 72 74 75 75 7.— DYEING 18. — Children's 136. — Street.— CUTTING.— Girl's School Dress 103. Lesson 97. Lesson Lesson 74. 66. —Boning 38 40 41 — Shirt Waist Supporter — Rain Coat and Waterproof Garments Lesson — Corset Covers — Drawers " — Chemise " 81.— SPONGING.— Night Gowns — Combination Undergarments. 77.— SCHOOL Lesson " " 14 101. 100. 57 58 60 61 61 62 63 64 64 —Rompers Coats 15. 89.— Pockets Traveling Skirts and Busi- 46 47 47 96.— Dress 12. 65.— Shirt Waist Sleeves 71. Boston Dr. Cuffs and Lap Closings 72. Curry.— Coat Sleeve 73. 85. 93.— Making of Gowns 92. — Making of Dinner Gowns.— CLEANING 17. President Bell Doan 1369-R 9608 Hough Avenue CONTENTS 5. 88.—THE WELL GROOMED WOMAN. — Lesson — Fitting and Alterations. 83.— Aprons — — Lingerie Waists — Housekeeping Gowns — Evening and Dinner Gowns.. Cutting 53 —CHILDREN'S CLOTHES..— NECESSARY (A) MAKING ACCESSORIES (B)—Threads (C)— Sewing Thread (D) (E) SEWING AND Page DRESS30 30 30 31 313431 33 — Sewing Machine (F)— Linings (G)— Patterns — Embroidery Thread Hooks and Eyes (H)— Tape (I)— Dress (J) 35 35 Shields 39- 36 37 —Dress Form —Dress Trimmings 6. 99. 80. Cleveland and Graduate of School of Expression.—Turn Down Collars 69.Inatruflton Expression Literature Interpretation Pantomime Harmonic Training Art of Play Writing and Criticism iFlomtrp Hartlja itaaett (Swr^r) Graduate of Harroff School of Expression. 8. Lesson " " 102. (D)— Millinery (E) — Lingerie 76. .— Girl's -Gowns 104.- —Jackets 76 76 78 79 80 81 81 PRESS50 50 51- — Sponging -Pressing 98. and Shrinking 13... 110. ness 72- 90. 82. 82 83 83 84 85 85 .— Sleeves 70.— Children's Underwear Outfit.— FITTING AND ALTERATIONS.— Petticoats — Skirts and Underwear Without Plackets — Dressing Sacques (F) (G) " 78. 86. Costumes and Coats 77- 95.— Shirt Waists 91. 94. Page 64 65 66 66 67 67 67 68 68 68 69 70 71 71 84.— LAUNDERING 3 88 91 93 86 86 87 93 92 94 Page .— COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS SPECIFIC WORK Lesson — Plackets —Belts and Bands —Yoke and Peplums (K) (L) 63. (A) — The Well Groomed Woman. — Children's 105. — Maternity Corsets —Maternity Gowns — Maternity Skirts GIRLS' SUPPLIES. 75.

Oxydonor will do it. 69 63 16 76 91 15 8. Miller. (Dunham's Specific) Long. E.... (Sanitary Belt). 30. (Embroidery Scallops) Reis Initial Co. Mrs. you will be restored to health. (Manicuring and Chiropody).. The process is natural and very simple. invented by Dr. & Co. (Public Stenographer). etc. Co. Miss L. (Monarch Polish) Basch. Thus writes Are you suffering from Rheumatism. A.. (Senora Coffee) 24 22 24 Wm. E. T. Diabetes. 337 Old Arcade INDEX TO ADVERTISERS Page Adair. (Katharos) Ellsworth Public Hand Laundry Reis Initial Co. Co. B. (Cravenette) 60 88 9 Dye) Dowd. Grean Shoulder Form and Pad Grean Dress Making Specialties Grean Long Coat Front Foundation Grean Short Coat Front Foundation Grean's "Greanet" Grean Fitted Waist Lining Grean Coat Collars Fassett. M. * Call or Send 10 Cents for Postage. Pictoral Pictorial J. & C. Restaurant Co. R. (Domestic Cleaner) Swalley's Credit Store Telling Co.. F. if you want pREE— Books on Health.. Priestley.. Mandarin. Hall. Stomach Trouble. Main 730 Ohio Agency.. (Wrinkle Eradicators) 64 26 61 64 5 84 64 52 80 40 56 56 33 2 5 31 8 34 25.. Co. Young Women's Zoa Phora Co Christian 57.. 76. Mrs. (Book and Art Exchange). H. or are any of your family suffering from disease? If so.. (Linings) Belle Vernon Dairy Co Berner's Art Store Boston Dry Goods Co B. Pioneer Mfg. & P. Frank (Dentist) Electra Pure Water Co. No. even if all else has failed. Wm. (Funeral Director). N. 6 44 60 47 1 Vacuum 20 55 89 13 77 78 54 35 45 48 55 Grean Arm Pad Grean Fitted Belt Griffith Warner Hat Shoppe Warren Featherbone Co White Sewing Machine Co Wilson Dress Hook Co Wright. & & Sons Co. Mfg. by all means secure one of Dr. (Osteopathic Physician) Morehouse Co Noteman. Co. 64 38 66 32 36 62 83 96 Page 4 . Co. Ellen C. Wright. Nervousness. & Co Lawson School of Music Lickes Drug Co. (Embroidery Catalog). Sanche's Oxydonor's and by the use of it as directed. C. Cleveland Credit Clothing Co Cleveland Dress Trimming Co College of Science (Acme) Connelly Co. Berthe (Corsets) 86 19 53 58 51 II May Co. Pneumatic Form Co. (Peacock Carlton Monks. (Sewing Silk) Belding Bros. Stroud.. Van Gorder (Havanco Mending Tissue) Haserot Co.. but as and setting of the sun. David (Shirtwaist Belts) Battle Creek Sanitarium Food Co Belding Bros.. The C. & C. (Embroidery Initials) 74 50 39 65 94 14 29 28 18 19 71 Richardson Silk Facial College Elwako Mfg. Joseph. (Sleeve Initials) Reis Initial Co. Ohio. Ohio Office Furniture Co 91 5 Oxydonar Parrish. 68 9 72 41 46 54 37 11 Review Co. Raynolds Co. Sanche for the purpose of healing the sick. Margaret B. Mrs. (Piano Instruction) 58 20 60 93 42 73 3 ' Co G. Rosenblum Clothing Co Sanar Remedy Co (Attorneys at Law) Shop of Kimonas and Art Laces Skalla. 13. (Ganesh Toilet Preparation) A. (Sanitary Protectors) American Textile Mfg. . cures. 4 P. Abbie E. 31. The May. (Morlene) Korach. C. 29 21 34 23 12 17 7 Arbor Tea Shop Art Pleating Shoppe Baird Bros. (Energine Shoe Dressing) Devoe. G. (Fashion Book) B. Phone. T. (Ice Cream) Universal Dry Cleansing Co Victor Insect Exterminating Co 43 75 & Florence Martha (Expression) Frederick Piano Co Fries & Schuele Fulton. (Tape) Sons Co. Maud De Long (Dermatologist) Smith Carriage & Auto Co Smith Chemical Co. L. F. infallible as the daily rising Investigate. W." Edward Rigby of Lisbon. (Woven Names) Reis Initial Co. & (Shino) (Dress Form) Co. health. performs which border on miracles. (Dentist) Bryson Co. ("Hair Vim") Snow Flake Laundry Shaver. Association 7. (Elwako Laundry Aid) Euclid Cafetiere (Lunch Club) Farr. Co.OXYDONOR "This wonderful little appliance. Co.. 55.. Chester (Vocal Instruction). Review Co. (Dust Bright) 59 63 10 Page Hawley Restaurant Henke Furniture Co Hexter's Lining Store Ideal Faucet Syringe Co Interstate Drug Co. E. H. Co. (Embroidery Silk) Belding Bros. (Sewing Machine Supplies) Studio (Art Work) Cedar Cleaning Works Chandler. Co. 95. Mrs.. (Naiad Dress Shield) Continental Casualty Co Creme de Luxe Cummer Products Co.. (Real Estate) Conover. Dr. Spinal Trouble. E. ' .

CO. laboritheir — ous piece of drudgery. simple and comprehensible set of Sewing and Dress Making Lessons have been compiled without waste of words or unnecessary repetitions. without as complete a wardrobe as they would like to have or pay out more money than they feel that they should spare to get . We have made the system as brief and as easy as possible and by following faithfully the instructions and always turning to the lessons designated you will find that you have a reliable guide to the making of every essential garment for your wardrobe. LAXATIVE BRAN BISCUITS "The samples you gave do the work ine were delicious" BATTLE CREEK SANITARIUM FOOD Page 5 CO.Public Stenographer Duplicating Filing Devices Tables. Cleveland. as the means of presenting to the world her ideal of thought. For this reason this plain.. L. non-individual clothes simply because they do not know exactly how to cut and fit and make and finish the articles of their apparel and without complete instructions before them do not feel like risking the time and the material in experimenting. Many women go garments made or are forced to wear unbecoming. INTRODUCTION. Thus dressmaking will become an Art and a Science and a pleasure instead of a nerveracking. 111-112 Old Arcade . On the other hand if they know just how to go ahead and have each step made plain for them to follow they could add many beautiful garments to To be sure much that is very helpful their wardrobe at a very small cost. S. 1145 Prospect Ave.. using herself as the model and her materials. Quigley Desks Chairs Armor-Clad Steel Furniture Cuspidors and other Office Furniture Murphy & Gunlocke Miss L. trimmings. but many women do not preserve these periodicals or have not the time to wade through all the other literature and sometimes a labyrinth of instructions to find out the system of properly cutting out and putting together and finishing a dress or suit or piece of underwear or perhaps doing up a piece of household sewing.. E. THE OHIO OFFICE Chandler Central 332 1-K Main 1368 FURNITURE Bell. etc. Ohio 429 The Arcade North 1450 I. Sewing is an art and the woman who clothes herself with an eye to bringing out the possibilities of her grace and beauty and best points of individuality. has been written on the subject of sewing and many of our best magazines have given us invaluable information. and hiding any possible defects of her contour or carriage will work as an artist.

Lesson Stitch. Try Our Superior Service Today. CHAPTER PLAIN.oOOCNO''. . FREDERICK PIANO CO.$200 Sound Proof Demonstrating Parlors Experienced Salesmen. but learn and practice holding and doing your work properly and sitting erect. IV. French seams. gathering. crumble it nor yet so loosely that the stitches are taken unevenly.— stitches through the cloth should It will be of exact and equal length.CHAPTER III. leaving the right hand Never hold the work so as to crush and free with which to do the stitches. Sit up straight. Lesson 17.— RUNNING STITCH. (3) (4) Lesson Hemstitch. -. TO HOLD THE GOODS.—Thread AND ORNAMENTAL STITCHES. Running 2. materials. Always take stitch under the hem or seam to hide knot but in open space where this is not possible fasten thread by taking two or three stitches over each other or — KNOT. Always hold the goods in a position so the stitches are taken toward you. by backstitching (Lesson 4). W. .. 1612 EUCLID AVENUE Page 6 .. hemming of fragile garments. hold the work firmly in the left hand. be in constant use for seams on light etc. 3. . left hand. needle with proper sized thread and hold in Wind thread once over forefinger of right hand and pull tightly. (1) (2) Slant Stitch. The Proof of the Pudding is in the Eating The Proof of "Frederick Service" In the Trying is Every Record Every Victrola $15. FANCY Lesson 1. The Lesson 2.->. Knots should never be visible in any sewing except in basting. Lesson 5. F. Basting Stitch. and do not form the bad habit of pinning the work to your skirts and then humping over to do it or winding seams over the forefinger of your left hand.

Insert the needle under the fold. varying the distance between stitches according to the quality and thickness The two important features of perfect overcasting or overof the material. Making Trade Class Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister Cooking fundamental principle of all good fitting and adjusting lies in the proper basting.— OVERCASTING AND OVERHANDING. practical and artistic manner. The half back stitch is taken half way back between the space of where the thread is drawn through and where the stitch leaves off on the upper side. Ohio West Side Branch Franyin and West 32nd Home Nursing Home Making Chafing Dish St.—Take a few running stitches (see Lesson 2). Lesson 3. then take a short back stitch back on the upper side and a long stitch forward on the under side. page 6). Beginners or Advanced Pupils Private or Class Lessons Day or Evening Jim Best Instruction Moderate Prices Page 7 . Voice Culture of both the singing and speaking voice a specialty.—The Lesson 5. From under side draw needle through cloth exact depth to be overcasted or overhanded and take stitch over and through twice to hold firmly. progressive. Lesson 4.Sewing Millinery Apply to the Cookery Dining Room Service Dietetics Dressmaking Tailoring Shirt Waist Young Women's Christian Association Prospect Avenue and East 18th Cleveland. (See cut 1. Lay your cloth perfectly in place and then fasten by taking even or uneven running stitches through the material as in cut. handing are to have needle point at exact depth and be exact distance between each stitch. using two or three stitches to hold (never knot under a fold). CIk Cawson School of music and Other Tine 10507 Superior Avenue Cleveland.— Begin at the right and work toward the left.— SLANT STITCH.— Baste material with edges exactly even or if single trim smooth and even. —BASTING. Hold your goods with the edges which you are sewing on toward you. Use Slant Stitch (see Lesson 5).— BACKSTITCH. Lesson 6. Begin next stitch exactly where last stitch left off on upper side of sewing (see cut 1). This is one of the most particular lessons in sewing as every stitch must be exactly the same in height and distance apart. Ohio All branches of Music and Dramatic Art taught in a thorough. Point the needle toward the left shoulder and pass it through a few folds of the material and a few threads of the fold.

— OUTLINE T TTVT/^O French . holding your work with the needle pointing toward you and always keeping the thread on the same needle. thread under thumb form loop. your dealer does not carry "Belding's. If and we will BELDING BROS. half stitch is (see way back the center.— CABLE STITCH. Belding's teed fast dve. New Process Embroidery Silk and every conceivable shade. guaranus. take a short stitch through the material. in eight different twists. Lesson 9.— CHAIN the top of your design and always your needle to point a towards needle through material. bringing needle through one stitch distance ahead and proceed as before. & CO. except that drawn through at the side. side of the Take each stitch back two threads on the precedtightly.Have You Tried T^T lriLLlllVJO ICECREAM? Lesson 7." write tell you where it can be obtained.— The the cable as the chain stitch needle is made almost exactly Lesson 8). ing stitch and draw rather yet not enough to wrinkle the goods.American STITCH. of the previous stitch.— Take even stitches. 528 Broadway STITCH.— Start have left New York at City Lesson 8. hold down Draw you. instead of at Page 8 .

HAND BAGS. or The May Co. either the These may be obtained Transfer or Perforated Patterns Purchase a copy today at any newsdealer. Satin. Add 15 cents for The New Pictorial Review Embroidery Catalog. Page 9 . by mail. SHIRT WAISTS. New The New of the Review Embroidery Catalog. New York. Y. Etc. Seed. SKIRT PANELS. and Infants' and Children's Wear. Underin not forgetting the exquisite designs for wear. having the stitches in each row fall between those of the opposite row. Solid and Outline Including numerous designs for the popular Braid Work and the Punched Embroidery. N. Send 20 cents for a sample of this work begun on special and one large needles. such as Eyelet. Are all illustrated. Hold the threads in place with your left hand and fasten them to the material with small stitches on the right side.Lesson 10. —'Couching thread at is made by apart laying straight lines equal distances across the design. BELTS. —COUCH of STITCH. COSTUMES. SUITS. profusely illustrated and contains designs for all the various kinds of embroideries. The "New" Pictorial Review Embroidery Catalog is filled with ideas and suggestions of interest to any It is woman who em- broiders or does fancy work. many DOILIES. Price 10 cents. 15 cents THE PICTORIAL REVIEW COMPANY THE PICTORIAL REVIEW BUILDING 222 West 39th Street. Pictorial Fully explained and illustrated in linen.

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Schofield Bldg. 1. LONG teach or paint to order. O.E. THE ELLEN and C. and draw the needle through to the right of the group and take a short stitch in the fold (See cut No. group from three toward you. W. of the hem. wrong side and bring the through pattern to carrying When the be worked. and ask us to tell you today and let us explain or call up CENTRAL WHAT FIVE CENTS PER DAY WILL DO FOR YOU. Be positively and safely provided for by the largest Health and Accident Insurance Company in the world.— Draw the required number of threads Hold the hem and turn hem and baste exactly below last thread drawn.— Fasten up the thread on right side. needle under and through the hem. CONTINENTAL CASUALTY CO. pictures in Book ana Art exchange 31 Taylor Arcade Monogram Work. Wedding. We insure both Men and Women. Paints for china 10c and 15c each. laid draw through in the number of threads have been opposite direction at even distances apart another set of threads. china decorating and firing. unexpected piece of bad luck comes.) 16.the . water-color. Congratulations for Birth Carlton Studio 1430 Announcements and other special occasions. Dainty Cards.Breadwinner Then when the unforseen. At the place where the threads cross catch to thread desired down with the cross stitch.Art We do stencil Work oil. insert the to as many threads as are desired (always the same number). pastel or crayon. High Grade Stationery.— DAMASK needle across STITCH. page 6. Come in 2357 -W. Birthday.and .—The back seed stitch is made by taking small stitches covering the leaf or petals of a design or in monogram. Lesson 14. Lesson 15. Lesson Protect -Yourself . Cleveland.. also teach work. for exact position of needle).Watt.Mgr. FRAMING A SPECIALTY. Anniversary. (See Lesson 11.— HEMSTITCHING. your cash income does not stop just when you most need it. 358 The Arcade SICKNESS OR AN ACCIDENT MAY COME TOMORROW ACT TODAY — Page 11 . stitches The rows must be evenly spaced and the each row falling midway between those of the rows at either side of them.— SEED STITCH.

Double Chin.— CROSS is STITCH. Tumors. possible misrepresentation case Morlene relieves the able conditions accompanying Goitre and gives entire satisfaction to how bad or how long standing.— The cross stitch simply bringing one stitch across the angle of the other. the breathing or the blood flow to and from the brain. you are not tell them afflicted but of Morlene. Ohio Page . 50 and we will promptly deliver a full size package containing a sufficient quantity for an ordinary treatment of 30 days.Lesson 17. its effectiveness has been thoroughly proven. to say the least. therefore we want every person afflicted with Goitre and similar troubles to know that there is a remedy which is really a success in If 92% of all cases. no matter tions is unsightly and disagreeable. If he fails send us SI. They should know about if he wants your trade. Morlene is not an experiment. so it is always best to get rid of any enlargements about the throat whether they be Goitre. Your druggist can supply you MANUFACTURED ONLY BY The Interstate Drug Company 12 Cleveland. to avoid will cure any case of Goitre. have relatives or friends who it. Enlarged Joints. GOITRE will disappear when treated with MORLENE Also Thick Neck. we will say that in every dangerous and disagree92% of all cases. Inflammations The above statement has been so thoroughly proven that we are almost tempted to say Morlene However. and it often produces dangerous condiaffecting the eyes. are. Thick Neck or Goitre by Tumors and for the sake of a better appearance the Double Chin.

exclusively on the C. insects. rats. etc. White Sewing Machine Co. upholstered furniture. instead made by taking three stitches to the Lesson 19. and recommended by the State Medical authorities as being the only absolute remedy known to Science. Thread Cast-off (it's exclusively White) and the difficulty vanished as if DON'T NEGLECT YOUR HOME by magic.— Mark thread along the line chalk or run a colored to be followed. It is the method endorsed by the Government experts of all nations. first on the right then on the left. (see Lesson except that one stitch in is taken. There's no time like the present to look the White over. Churches and Stores of all germs. and two stitches to the left. hold thread take a short stitch through and to the right side of down with the mark or thumb. ONLY No powder dust left — No poison— No bad odors. rs^J Lesson 20. 426 PROSPECT Both Phones Victor Insect 351 The Arcade Exterminating Co. thread stitch down directly on downward to left the of the mark or mark line and hold with thumb and take short or line and repeat taking stitch. is The double feather or briar stitch is made by taking two stitches to the right of one while the triple feather stitch right and three to the left. Our experts Our methods are used & B.— the the only is equipped with a Cast-off. It's just another instance of White superiority. CLEVELAND. (See cut). manufacturers of Rotary machines have had a world of trouble with the thread tangling in the shuttle race. bring needle through to right side. Talk about trouble why. left line. Hotels. Warehouses. It should be fumigated by our method once a year it will be clean and healthful.— Is Page 13 made by using is the in. etc.— FEATHER tailor's STITCH— BRIAR STITCH. Knot bring thread. long and short stitch in successive rows until the design entirely filled . and you can imagine the annoyance it has caused the operator. —then Boats. We rid Boats. mice. one-half the dis- tance depth as the succeeding one. Penetrates through plastering.—LONG AND SHORT STITCH — stitch Follow exact instructions as slant 5). with pencil or Lesson 18.— SOLID EMBROIDERY. Happily the White experts came to the rescue with this remarkable device THREAD CAST-OFF THE White Rotary Thread machine — SANITATION HEALTH HAPPINESS Our method is of fumigation and insect extermination absolutely the most up-to-date and efficient method in use. Let us hear from you. to say nothing of the loss of time in trying to get the machine to work right. are at your service. O. bedding.

REIS' FOUNDATION Letters and Scallops They add that much help to make your wearing apparel and household linen distinctively rich.— (French Embroidery)— The or Initials. Take stitch through material depth desired with needle pointing downward. Our standing offer is as follows: "We Will Pay for Any Garment Injured Gumbac Foundations Through Washing or Re!s by Reis Ironing. Reis Gumbac Foundations are not made of ordinary paper or even papier mache. and in satin stitch is the stitch taken straight across from one edge to the other of the design or taken on a slant from one edge to the opposite edge.Lesson 21. The cut shown in Lesson 25. new Sold at the Art Counter of Any Department Store Reis Initials. Draw needle through loop and repeat taking every stitch very closely together so no gap appears between the stitches. yards REIS FOUNDATION LETTERS Are made Script in three styles: Harmonizing colors gramrr. many other designs so much vogue at the present time. Hold thread under left thumb forming loop. You will use the Satin Stitch in making in the Chevrons. we guarantee that they will retain their shape and appearance through all the washings.— EMBROIDERY SCALLOP STITCH. Underlaying and Basting difficulties eliminated. and work over with That's all. desired tone of expressive charm— an indication of character— the "intangible something" of which a woman can well be proud. page IS. silk or cotton.— Fasten thread by running and back stitches.— SATIN STITCH. 620 Broadway. shows the exact position of the needle. booklets. If you can thread a needle you can successfully use them. New York Page 14 . Remarkable as it may seem. LEARN AX OUR EXPENSE How easily the most inexperienced sewer can create perfectly stunning effects in embroidery with the new Reis Gumbac Foundations Scallops. The material in their composition is of European origin. They are very simple. of embroidery their attractiveness. sample strips of scallops and samples of the Reis Letters in your initial. Just moisten the back and stick on. the scallops or embroidered edge vary according to the Often the depths of pattern or design to be worked and the outline must be very carefully followed. We will send turn our In Sizes from % inch to 10 Inches. Nor will they discolor or harm the finest fabric. especially silk will add to when working mono- Block Old English — easily accomplished 2-cent by interlacing Send us your name. Reis' Letters and Scallops make embroidering simply delightful with the Stamping." 1J 4 Gumbac Scallops come in six styles— 26 patterns. boilings and ironings that the article on which they are embroidered will withstand. Lesson22.ed des'gns the letters. and retail at a uniform price of 10c per card of to the small sizes and S of a yard to the large. a name of a dealer in your city stamp and the who would most you in re- likely handle our goods.

or Central 8258 K. When your foundation is completed then embroider according to embroidery scallop is is There and there an a stitch. Ohio . 15 STROUD CO. & C.THE OLD WAY TO EMBROIDER SCALLOPS. is The DOMESTIC last a lifetime. etc. Lesson 22. Upholstery. cabinet built and will the only hand cleaner The DOMESTIC is with attachments for cleaning Mattresses. D OMESTIC VACUUM C LEANER Dirt and Dust are a Constant Menace to Your Home A of large percent of our contagious dis- eases are carried into the home by reason germ laden dust. or come to our office. Then you must pad your scallops with the chain stitch using a good filling cotton. is only Vacuum Cleaner with Full Ball-Bearings and a BaliBearing Adjustable Roller under the suction the plate for light or The DOMESTIC heavy cleaning. For free demonstration phone Main 2463. The DOMESTIC Hand Cleaner is as powerful as the best portable electric. tedious and laborious manner of embroidering scallops new. With these attachments you have a cleaner with every advantage of an electric machine at a little greater cost than the best Bissell Carpet Sweeper. E. THE B. H. Then a running stitch must be very carefully taken at the exact line desired to indicate the depth. pleasant and easy way. 510 The Arcade Page Cleveland. old. The old method is to buy a transfer pattern or hire the stamping done.

— Begin by fastening thread by using running and back stitch.— Thread the long special and knot it at the eye. taking care to always have the stitches exactly the same distance apart and exactly the same height. oblong or pointed. press down with your hand and work over with the stitch taught you in Lesson 22. Run a cotton thread around the outlines with very small running stitches to hold the form.the stiletto. and repeat. for exact position of needle. 1911 Cars Remodeled with Fore Doors and Repainted to Resemble 1912 Models Telephone--East S40 1970 EAST 66TH STREET. procure the necessary length of Reis Foundation Gumbac Scallops. NEAR CORNER OF EUCLID AVENUE Smith Carriage $ Auto Co. The blanket stitch is the same as the buttonhole stitch only each stitch is made instead of very close together as the buttonhole stitch is done. Then fastening your thread on the under side of the material. Smith. which can be embroidered over without any of the preliminary work explained. Bring up the the work. See cut of Lesson 25. begin work in the upper left-hand corner of the design. — Lesson 24. Then send the needle down in the first dot of the second row and bring it up in the second dot of the first row. drawing needle through loop. Make stitches very even and rather tight and then shape perfectly with . To save time and energy and to insure satisfactory results with your work.— Eyelets may be round. row. AND Set the needle for each stitch just outside the cotton outline stitch and draw the point through the stilettoed opening or set the needle through the opening. except that in embroidery the point of the needle is toward the edge while in buttonholeing the point of the needle is toward the cloth. Lesson 25.—The Buttonhole stitch and the Embroidery Scollop stitch are done exactly the same (see Lesson 22). bring in first the first it Page 16 . send it down in the first up again in the first dot of the first row and draw the thread slightly to pull the goods together. Hold thread under left thumb forming loop take stitch depth desired with needle pointing downward. F. a small distance apart. TRIMMING. Lesson 23. L.AUTOMOBILE PAINTING. then punch with a stiletto. Proprietor THE NEW WAY TO EMBROIDER SCALLOPS.— BLANKET STITCH. All you need to do is to moisten the scallop. oval.— EYELETS EYELET EMBROIDERY. Either manner is correct. This eliminates all the drudgery of stamping your design and all the filling-in work and gives a much more desirable effect than you can possibly obtain by the ordinary methods. Pass down needle dot of the dot of the second row.— PUNCHED used for WORK.— BUTTONHOLE STITCH. By needle courtesy of Pictorial Review Co. Lesson 26. REMODELING AND REPAIRING. bringthe ing the point just outside the outline stitch.

of your We also make buttons own call material in all styles. Braiding Ladies'. On heavy goods such as velvet.li l —^— Page 17 . pass down through the second dot of When the second row and bring up again in the third dot of the first row. serge or linen a braid or cord the color of the material should be used. chiffon braid or cord and a long stitch on the back. bring up through the second dot of the first row. soutache. gowns. turn the naterial and repeat the stitch at right angles to the first set of stitches. The stitch used to sew on the braid is a short stitch on the right side of the For materials of net. suits. To secure the most attractive effect the braid should be sewed on the edge so that it will stand up on the material.— BRAIDING. FOURTH STREET. Misses' Braided in and Children's Dresses. i Lesson 27. Suits. CLEVELAND. Braiding is most suitable and effective for a border or a trimming for waists._l-Mi 1^- H I L^. or marquisette a dull silver or fine gold or soft silk cord put on with button The stamping of hole couching makes a most beautiful border or trimming. not having the time or the inclination to do this work for themselves can make up their garment and then have experienced braiders neatly and carefully carry out your ideas in any simple or elaborate design which you may select. bias tubing or fine embroidery or the design can be followed with the outline or chain stitch. cord. Bring your work to us or phone and we will tell us up by either you what we can do for you. so that the effect will be one of little squares. you have done all of the work in one direction. Coats and Blouses the latest. It can be developed with plain braid.^ through the second dot of the second row. (Braiding and Embroidering) W. so the plainest or the most fastidious tastes can be satisfied. OHIO m^m j i ——— jj i . draw the thread a bit. There infinite variety of beautiful designs and patterns now in vogue for is an Those braiding. most artistic and approved designs. these patterns for braiding must be most carefully done and the design followed exceedingly accurately in order to produce a satisfactory effect. evening wraps or children's dresses and can be used on any material. Joseph Korach 1258 ^—^— & Company II.

Chevrons and emblems are very appropriate for sailor suits.— MONOGRAMS. rons and monograms on a separate piece See of broadcloth or linen.Use Reis Foundation Letters for initials. boys' suits. cutting the paper or crinoline away as soon as finOr you may embroider the chevished. and a number of purposes which present them- and children always delight in an emblem or chevron on their arm. will supply you with Reis Foundation Letters for any desired purpose Ask Q t the needlework department Lesson 28. etc. such as lingerie. Sold at the needlework department of every department and dry goods store or send for our illustrated bcok on embroidering and samples in your initials. table covers. Page 18 . while grown ups always appreciate their monogram neatly worked on their garments. and sew on. CHEVRONS AND EMBLEMS. household handkerchiefs. chevrons and monogram foundations and selves work over them with the Lesson 21). Etc. You can either get the Reis emblems. or crinoline or stiff lessons on embroidery for the monogram work. REIS 630 ASHABLE LETTERS •«amo r M«»OOIf)EBV BROADWAY NEW YORK The Morehouse Co. work bags. your monograms or We have plain and suitable for fancy letters every need of embroidery linen. Made in three styles-— Old English— Script— Block— sizes ^g inch to 10 inches. satin stitch (see you can stamp them on paper and baste them on the goods and embroider.

This extraordinary offer is made to convince every woman of the superiority Richardson's Grand Prize Wash Embroidery Silk Why your home with attractive and not beautify effective pillows when the opportunity is offered? We will give you tire this en- Pillow Outfit including 1 Pillow Top — either oblong or square Every woman wants these attractive pillows and also knows the true value of —tinted on Aberdeen Crash. Richardson's 1 Back for Pillow 1 Grand Prize Grecian Floss On sale at Diagram Lesson arrangement of stitches — showing and color scheme.— This Beautiful Pillow FREE f All we ask is that you buy 6 skeins of Grand Prize Wash Embroidery Silk Richardson's or trated lesson for ZDC and a The fully illusPillow Top and Back are absolutely FREE. and Six Skeins of Richardson's Mercerized Cotton Floss for BERNER'S ART STORE Arcade Building oniy 25 cents Page Cleveland 19 :: Ohio TOUR CHOICE OF TWELVE DESIGNS .

TERMS— $1.— TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES. which is best described as being pure until it is declared impure. None of the tonic values are lost. 3241-W Cleveland. It contains enough of the minerals and salts to make it the most healthful of drinking waters. Ohio Page 20 . Boys and Children ON CREDIT HERE you'll find the NEW. then cut straight the slit to be worked. but is much more palatable and tonic in its qualities. over cast the edges then work with the button hole stitch (as per Lesson 24). A SQUARE DEAL CWALLEY'S CREDIT STORE ^"^ 424 Euclid Ave. NOTHING BENEFICIAL IS REMOVED by the process of purification. Clothes of the BETTER SORT of Clothing. IS AS AS DISTILLED WATER. Pay as you can spare it. in the exact place you desire it. Cleveland. Women. PURE ALWAYS PURE— CONTAMINATED h°nes : N ^r t 34 6 The Electra Pure Water Co. otherwise you may ruin your garment. KATHAROS KATHAROS due to the liberation of gas during the electrolytic action. IS in which respect it is very unlike spring water.Clothes of Quality for Men. Ohio Lesson 29.— Unless you have tested your skill in making buttonholes it will be wise for you to practice until you are in a fair way to feel confidence in your ability.00 I'M THE MAN That'll Always Give You Down. The Purest Water Sold in Cleveland ( Bacterial Tests Abundantly Prove the Truth of this Statement ) THE PROCESS OF PURIFICATION necessary for the production of Katharos is the most advanced known to science. then run a thread around the space you intend to cut. Quality. Springs situated in proximity to thickly populated districts are peculiarly liable to sudden contamination. at prices absolutely as low as at any cash store. The volume of sickness traceable to SPRINGS is of vast proportions. Distinction and Style. First mark the exact length of buttonhole you desire. KATHAROS HAS LIFE AND SPARKLE. THE BOTTLES ARE STERILIZED and rinsed with Katharos before being filled. 2035 East 18th Street Cent. the DIFFERENT.

Get acquainted with our stock and new things with which our store is Let us show you what beautiful pieces can be had for little money. draw through cloth and bring thread loosely down to exact length desired. then fasten well on under side. LOOPS. and run your thread exactly along the lengthwise thread of the garment. such as stiff paper or thin oil-cloth. then measure exact place button is needed. allowing the eye of the needle to pass under first. then begin on the cross wise threads and run over and under the lengthwise threads altering the over and under stitch. Fasten your thread with the over and over stitch. but in mending most materials. ON Lesson 31.— SEWING BUTTONS. The darning thread to be used depends entirely — — — on the material to be darned.. as it should match in color and quality. leaving the thread moderately loose. W. and mark either with a pin or with tailor's chalk. and in many instances a thread or ravelling drawn from the goods itself is preferable. HAVE YOU EVER INSPECTED OUR LARGE FURNITURE STORE? It Will Pay Come You in to Do So see the filled. Place button directly over mark or pin and bring up thread through holes of the buttons.— Have button hole completed first. Lesson 32. repeat three or four times or until you have thickness consistent with the weight of goods you are working on. 30th . and examine our Furniture and Floor Coverings. Always begin a little beyond the worn places so your stitches will hold. continue till loop is covered. DARNING. Page 21 Co. they should be basted on a flat surface. Fasten the thread well on the under side by several over and over stitches. Then begin at the bottom of the threads and insert the needle under the loops and over the thread. When the button is securely sewed on wind the thread a few times around under the button and fasten well on the under side of the garment. The Henke Furniture 3001-3021 Lorain Ave. cor. In mending stockings a darning ball may be used.— Lesson 30.

etc. also mending all kinds of rents in clothing. and patches can be put on and repairs made on a moment's notice by adhering to the following directions: Brush leaving size it all dust from garments. place piece of goods like garment under hole. HAVANCO MENDING TISSUE The best thing for repairing bottoms of skirts and pants. One For sale piece each of White. and cut it so the weave comes exact with the place to be mended. If possible have your patch of the same material. a little larger than the hole. Cut piece of the Havanco tissue the of the piece of lay a paper on cloth over for stockings. Baste patch on wrong side of goods. silk goods and place it between the garment and the patch. Black and Brown Ten Cents to the by package for . dry goods and notion stores. and on a rent or cut in a material which needs patching. druggists. PATCHING. silk garments. directions Re-seating or repairing knees of boys' pants. the stitch to mended without darning or is A is thread from the cloth used and begun back from the rent and the back and forth in running is stitch a slanting line taken until the tear has been closed.. — There are many materials such as rain-proof clothing or kid gloves. Lesson 34. or that can be mended much better with the Havanco Mending Tissue than with needle and thread. — Stoting be is used on »%&&% WTPrfiiTi?lIli-- heavy goods. not have the iron HOT. On the right side cut out the worn or frayed part and make a small slit in each of the corners and turn down evenly the edges and sew down neatly on both sides of the garment. Same directions goods or other goods where part is worn thin and a patch required. all and press with a warm flatiron. boiled. or will of the price in stamps. OHIO .— Lesson 33. . — Stoting. send post paid upon the receipt 1382 West Ninth Street THE HALL-VAN GORDER COMPANY Page 22 CLEVELAND. follow above for Garments repaired with Havanco may be washed and ironed but not Heat is the only thing that will affect it. Remember do patches. and useful for making many other kinds of repairs quickly and effectively.

perfect and effective syringe ever made. except that the patch to a overhanded on the and the underside neatly cut down good seam and pressed.. and the force of the stream can be regulated to suit the purpose for which it is used from a drop of water at a time to a pressure of 50 pounds. With this Ideal Faucet Syringe you can get the same results.. convenient. the overhand patch put on the same as the is Lesson 34). It is entirely unlike the old style. The operator can use a pint or a gallon without stopping and at any force desired.. Cleveland. in washing off dirt from the porch. desired to use an antiseptic or sanative treatment in connection with a douche.-.. will last a life time. Ohio Page 23 . always ready. Ackerman's Patent Ideal Faucet Syringe and Bath Spray The most wonderful improvement ever made j-i i !<v . Can be used for everything a fountain syringe is used for. whereas with the Ideal Faucet Syringe you can obtain any desired force. in a syringe. — The Ideal Patent Cup Attachment.— Where may be used. economical.— OVERHAND ordinary patch right side (see PATCH. no cumbersome water bags to get out of order. It is the most simple. IDEAL FAUCET SYRINGE COMPANY 9601 Cedar Avenue.: Lesson 35. screw on cap and attach to end of rubber tube before putting on the spray and then screw on the vaginal pipe and the whole stream of water is medicated with the medicine. if necessary. a which has and when sponge in it. will use the lawn hose with such force as to drive everything before it. sanitary. while the ordinary fountain syringe has not enough force to it to dislodge germs. all that is required is to it is drop your medicine onto this Sponge in the cup. so long found inefficient and unsatisfactory. A lady. which is controlled by a valve. the goods are heavy and not It is often washed. y\ '. as there is no limit as to the supply of water.•> . You can get any desired pressure or flow of water. clumsy fountain syringe.

and are width and join the diagonal bias is Lesson 37.B. obtained by folding on the selvedge or straight Folds and bands are used very neat trimming. as they make a Cut your bias strips the desired easily made. — CORDING.— Cut it the bias strips twice in as wide as desired.—A true the material with the straight edge of the top lengthwise fold exactly. Sew up the seam in any of the ordinary ways described in the preceding lesson. and silk thread should always be used to join the seams of a garment made of wool goods. FELLED SEAM. & N. 0. turn down the fold and sew neatly just below the cord. piping. — Piping is made of bias strips folded in the center. Trim the under edge narrower than the outer. Baste and sew on either by machine or by hand. 4679 K Tables fnr Ladies DRINK Griffiths Restaurant 1022-1028 Prospect Avenue SENORA Always the Same CLEVELAND. or they may be protected in various manners. —PIPING. ends. and then turn under the edges of the fold and stitch with one or two rows of stitching. and cutting diagonally. considerably on tailored suits. the bias strip to emerge. Lesson — — stitch. the canvas is basted in and the edges of the fold fastened down with the catch stitch. make a narrow turn up of the bottom edge and bring it up to cover the edge turned down. and is an easy manner of disposing of the tailored seams. which is beautifully made at and ready for use. or by making the felled or French seams. and stitch on either side gives a very good finish.— MILLINER'S FOLD. Hold the cord so cannot become twisted and place the exact center of the fold. Ask your dealer for the W. Seams can be joined by machine stitching. On heavy goods that do not ravel or fray out to press back the edge of the seam. — an exactly even depth under the fold. SEAMS. Fold over the top edge. Lesson 42. Good Try Our Home-like Baking QUALITY HAS BEEN OUR SUCCESS COFFEE Page 24 . or back stitch or the edge when of material that does not fray can be left raw or pinked. DOUBLE FOLD. Lesson 40.Lesson 36. 41.— BANDS AND FOLDS. — — Cent. When the fold is lined. but the stitching must be very straight and very even. chain running stitch. allowing only the edge of The piping may be lined or unlined. Great care must be taken that the stitches are not too fine on tailored seams. 39.— Cut Lesson and basted N. — — Lesson 38. your bias bands two and one-half times the width desired. With a narrow turning fold the broad edge over the narrow edge of the seam and hem either by hand or on machine. such as binding or overhanding the raw edges. Take your bias band twice the desired width and fold so the edges come exactly together.

turn garment and sew on wrong side taking seam of depth to entirely inclose the first seam. Lesson 44. and cut out the underlying corners. or hemstitch (see Lesson 17). Lesson — ROLLED the right side. Much time is saved however. and overhand the end. turn under exactly as for an ordinary hem.— The proper material for binding the edges of seams is bias bands of silk. linen or cotton. binding turns itself so all you need to do is to fasten the binding on by hand or sew it down with machine.— THE BOUND SEAM. A lap seam is as its name implies one seam lapping over another. & N. Turn back the wide fold and baste down the narrow edge and stitch with one or two rows of stitching. — Is used for setting in insertion. while in others a hem is joined to a lace or embroidery insertion by what is called a roll hem.— Sew the seam by machine. Cut either bias or crosswise strips and turn under both edges and stitch over a plain seam. for your hem must be turned exactly even. of Turn fold as of for an ordinary Fold back the linen the crease the first the hem and with very fine stitches. — Table It is linen can be very neatly hemmed by hem. Trim evenly and narrowly. Lesson 45. When finished take a moderately hot iron and press down wrong the hem on 51. The edges of the goods to be bound should be evenly trimmed and the binding basted on the edges. Lesson 49. yet deep enough so the turning includes all the edges. or after turning the edges for the hem fold toward the center. LAPPED SEAM. leaving just room enough to catch the stitches nicely. This is one of the simplest manners in which to dispose — — — — — — of a tailored seam. binding. Baste down then hem with slant stitch (see Lesson S).) side of Page 25 . The W. when hemming can be done on the machine as it saves the measuring and basting. and cut the material in the fold and hem — — HEM the bias edges. HEM. Lesson —DAMASK at HEM. WELT SEAM. Lesson 46. (See Lesson 5.—THE FRENCH SEAM.— To hem square corners.BELLE VERNON MILK the Best Milk Lesson 43. very simple. overcast using the damask hem. 50. Lesson 48. being careful the stitches do not show through on the right side. Then cut a strip of heavy paper or notch a piece of card board the exact depth you desire your hem and use this paper or card board for a marker. Lesson 47. HEMMING. -Make a plain seam leaving one edge wide and one edge narrow. & N. or running stitch on the right side of the garment. or W. Hold goods toward you and turn neatly and begin at the right and sew insertion and material together with the slant stitch. STRAP SEAM. For the ordinary hem begin by making a narrow turning. Stitch near the edge of the upper lap and again one-half inch back.— TO CORNERS. Catch the overlap of the corners of the hem to the underlap. Hems are made by turning the edge of the material twice in any suitable depth and the fold fastened down with the slant stitch or by hemstitching or in some instances the plain running stitch.

& N.— SHIRRING. 52. embroidery. or the work will not look neat. B. tucks by hand you must make a marker and fold exactly on the line and — — sew down carefully by machine or with running stitch. a piece of goods cut either across or down the weave of the goods will do. Dressing Sacques. lace. can be done as successfully on the sewing machine as by hand and very much quicker. Lesson — GATHERING. accordion pleating. chiffon or any of If the ruffle is to be sheer materials. Neckwear. Street Dresses. Embroidery or lace may be used for facing on some articles by following the suggestion of cut which is done in the same way as the ordinary facing. Dancing Frocks. unless you have a pleating machine of your own. or on a seam. tape. The White Sewing Machine is provided with a tucker with which you can easily both regulate your tucks and the space between the tucks. Waists. bias tape is most useful in innumerable instances. Use a bias band. Turn and sew down either with machine or with slant stitch.spaces. FACINGS. And many styles of Pleat ings for Trimmings of Dresses. either N. Where lace or embroidery must be joined in tucks sew the cloth so the seam will come in the fold of and under the tuck. Always draw the ends of the threads through to the underside of the garment and tie carefully. made of goods without a finished edge edge must be neatly hemmed the Art Pleating Shop 438 Old Arcade Cleveland Page 26 . In this instance the edge of the embroidery or lace must be heavy enough to entirely cover the edge of the material of the garment. Maternity Dresses. your goods into two or four even knot and use the simple running stitch. lay a damp cloth over them and press so they will keep their fold nicely. side pleating and sunburst pleating must be done but all a pleating establishment. then heavy draw goods on gathering string into exact position desired. PL E ATI N G Accordeon Pleating and Side Pleating made in the newest effects for Party Costumes. Pleats are made the same as tucks. so it is not necessary But to make to baste in your tucks after a little practice on your machine. Muffs. House Gowns. — Ruffles may be made of straight or bias goods.— Divide rather make a 53. embroidery. Facing of lace or embroidery around the neck or arm hole of sleeves is sometimes put on the right side making a trimming or finish. Hats. Fancy Waists. Lesson 56. Children's Dresses. Etc. at Lesson 55. only you must always baste down your pleats. A first class sewing machine is provided with a tucker that can be gauged for any size tuck you desire.— Is simply from two to as many rows of gatherOn most materials it ing as desired. Lesson — — straight — Lesson 54.— RUFFLES. Place the right side of the facing against the right side of the goods and sew firmly with machine or by running stitch. Etc. In underwear the W. TUCKS.

B. taking pains to catch through the narrow hem on the underside.— If the lace or embroidery is to be put on by hand. Or the lace or embroidery may be set in by using the roll hem. sew hook so often happens with the ordinary hook and eye. (See Lesson 48). Liver Pills CO. to the necessary fullness and by placing the right side of the material and ruffle together and sewing firmly. Props. of insertion.Moth 71. of the wrong side of the lace or embroidery to the edge of the right side of the hem and stitch. Cut out goods Carefully baste down hem over edge leaving enough only for a narrow hem. When the food is not being properly digested and the Liver refuses to work and the whole system becomes clogged with poison and you need a good. and all Disorders Arising from a Sluggish Liver and Imperfect Digestion. work a ruffle of lace or embroidery may be put on with the whip stitch (see Lesson 6).— SEWING ON LACE OR EMBROIDERY. make a second turning and hem. and if desired an edging may be sewed on either by machine The ruffle is attached to the garment or neatly overhanded (see Lesson 6). which we recommend for skirts. & N. Or again the ruffle may be inserted in the hem by placing the right side of the garment and the ruffle together and turn hem back to In very fine the wrong side of the garment. Headache. you will find a cut of the Wilson Dress Hook and Eye. belts.. which is done exactly as overcasting. 25 CENTS. PRICE. and stitch on right side. ZOA-PHORA STOMACH The Scientific AND LIVER PILLS and Effectual Remedy for Biliousness. snap fasteners or buttons can be used.— SEWING ON HOOKS AND EYES.. Lesson 59. undergarments. Lesson 48). They are flat and invisible and never slip open as To sew on. See page 96 for partial list. where hooks and eyes. where an ordinary hook or buttonhole would be placed. Lesson 58. or with a piece of the W. dresses. put the right side of the lace to the right If the machine is to be used put the edge side of the material and overhand. The Wilson Dress Hook and Eye is easy to hook and unhook. Liver Pills Stomach have been used for over half a century with most For habitual Constipation and Bowel Trouble use the ZOA-PHORA Anti-Constipation Pills. waists. MICH. quick. gentle cathartic fL-J^y^-* & - RememberZOA-PHORA Stomach and gratifying results. or the ruffle may be sewed on the right side and covered with a bias band.— Baste the lace or embroidery on the right side in the exact position desired. children's garments or any purpose. either by gathering (see Lesson 52). The White Sewing Machine has an attachment wherewith the hemming is done and the lace or embroidery sewed on with one operation. bias tape. N.— SETTING IN LACE OR EMBROIDERY. On page 32. and cannot rust. ZOA-FHORA KALAMAZOO. Lesson 57. For sale at all first-class druggists. turn hollow side (see — Page 27 .

The Warren Feather Bone for stays or collar supports can be stitched by machine into the lining of the article to be boned.75 If your dry p><<ds store cannot take youi orders send youi order with remittance direct to us. the hosiery. ami are easily cut apart anil .sewn to an i Sm Phora won't do for garment. as well as in the simplest. is This or the Reis fully embroidered articles. Broadway and Bleecker ®*s NEW VCKK o^v/rv. by procuring the Reis woven names.es for $1. They never wear out.i different style letters. in the most elaborate gowns. but a more attractive way is to use the catch stitch (see Lesson 11). aprons and children's clothes. besides being a substantial stitch to hold the boning secure.25 for 72 Names Names Plate-. G. in a REIS' ENGRAVED NAMES t'anilin. Lesson 60.25 IV arr-. ami will identify you in case of REIS' NAMES come in si jj. navy.. light hlue Mark and can he had in several . The stitch used is simply sewing over and over through the small round holes of the hook and eye. JL22Z Pa ere 28 . in fact all laundered garments should be marked with the name or at least the initial of the member of the family to whom the article belongs. It saves annoyance. for they are perfect and durable and will stand the boiling and ironing of the laundry without being damaged in the least. initials plainest form the distinctive mark which The Reis foundation washable letters lends dignity to the or the Reis initial medallions should always be used. as are the ordinary hook and fastener. which gives the inside of the boned' article a very pretty finish. s accident.. REIS' WOVEN NAMES are machine woven <>n good quality white "a m hi ic tape in either red. prevents loss by laundries and hotels. You can get these letters or monograms in nearly any shade or style and all you need to do is to baste them on your fabrics and work over them with your embroidery cotton or silk. However. uji 100 200 Names for $1.— PUTTING IN STAYS AND COLLAR SUPPORTS.toward the cloth and the straight edge toward edge of cloth. fleeze lined and woolen underwear.00 for 144 $1.- Printed from Engraved Black on fine Tape: WOMANKIND no medicine will. very quickly and easily done. Every garment and piece of linen in your home should be marked. The gauze. St. What MARK YOUR GARMENTS WITH REIS' WOVEN NAMES Vonr garments should hear your name. and sew the eye where an ordinary eye or button would have been placed. lingerie and handkerchiefs beautifully monogrammed or with carecuff. REIS & BRO. $2. Lesson 61. woven initials made on woven tape which can be neatly overcasted on the inside of the garment.— MARKING OF LINEN UNDERWEAR. many prefer to use the feather stitch (see Lesson 18). Men's shirts should be marked with an embroidered initial just above Linen.

m. lavender and black. etc. Ohio .— EMBROIDERY DESIGNS. but pretty AVERYon the fad to have the Hand Regular Dinner. each or 3 for 25c. Lesson 62.The Hawley Cor. green. Reis' Initials elimate all this work. 10c. St. dresses or wash suits which meets the refined feminine approval more than embroidery designs. Embroidery Send or bring us that piece of Embroidery that you do not know how or have not the time to trouble to do. Price. beautiful and elaborate creations. m. requires artistic ability and much to make an attractive design. The designs and stitches used will depend entirely upon the taste of the individual and the style and texture of the garment. ii red. work a. navy. embroidered initials are very beautiful. white. G ReiS & BrOS. Joseph Korach Both Phones 1258 Page 29 & Company W. 4th St. Served from 11 25 Cents to 2 p. but all of the stitches ordinarily used will be found in this series stamping and making the garment. Clair Ave. 630 Broadway. However should you prefer to have the embroidery done by more experienced fingers than your own or have not the time to devote on that part of the decoration of waist or gown you will do well to take it to your local embroiderer where the work will be done by trained hands who make a specialty of lessons together with full directions for of embroidering. On nearly all smart garments from the marquisettes and sheer chiffon and silks and dainty lawns to the heavier materials and all wash goods you will find at least a suggestion ranging from the pretty French knots and the simple outline and chain stitch following the simplest of patterns to the most intricate. Y. There is no trimming or ornamentation for waists. CJA11 you have to do is stick them on and work over with silk or cotton.. and ^-* R "IS • it 9 EMBROIDERED SHIRT INITIALS is West Third St. N. Our experienced embroiderers can work out in perfect effects any design you may choose for any purpose Either machine cr hand work. We also make buttons of your own material. (CLEVELAND Sixth City initial sleeve or pocket of shirts. (Braiding and Embroidering) Cleveland. pajamas. in all styles.

and ? learn how much easier. better and quicker it will do your sewing. (See page 19— Dress Shields. (Silk. Rotary Shuttle IX! We and "Sit-Strate" Machines. made in One is of the greatest mistakes is sewing is the use of a needle that too large and thread that too coarse. DO DON'T DO WHAT Vibrator. NECESSARY SEWING ACCESSORIES. MACHINE Avenue Phones CHAPTER XI. (Basting) Thread.) 41. with ordinary care will last a lifetime so the greatest of caution should be used in selecting one. (See page 18— Trimmings. A modern machine is supplied with attachments that will hem. Botti WHITE SEWINGNo. cheaply made machine when for the same money or a few dollars more a first class. (See page 16— Stiffenings 17 — Tape. reliable and reputable make can be purchased. see that you have the necessary accessories at hand with which to do your work. Your machine must be kept perfectly clean and well oiled and by keeping the tension adjusted just right you will not need to give it much further attention. or where a line of tucks or trimming is desired. (See page 21 — Dress Forms. It is always a bad investment to buy an inferior. (Cotton) Thread. shall be glad to show it up and let it speak for itself. The articles usually required are: 1 2 —Cutting Scissors — Button Hole Scissors Stick 3— Yard 4 — — — 8— 9— Pins 10 — Tailor's —Tracing 5 —Tape 6 7 Line Needles Thread. the thread should just pass easily through the eye of the needle. provide yourself with a variety of sizes of cotton spool thread Be sure and Page 30 .) SEIWNG MACHINE.) 36. hemstitch and in fact do nearly everything that the human fingers can do in this line and a wise woman will keep her attachments always on hand and use them whenever possible for they will save her hours of useless labor. Chalk — Skirt Marker. gather. — Hooks and Eyes — Patterns 15 — Linings. 426 ProspectCO.) 37. see page 31D). (See pages 12 13 14 34. On the other hand do not attempt to use a coarse thread in a fine needle or a fine thread in a large needle. 11 Wheel (A) 40 and 41. but and a large spool of white basting thread and a spool of colored basting thread to use where it is not expedient to mark with a pencil or tailor's chalk. (See page 20— Boning.) 39. Before beginning the making of a garment.) 38. A good sewing machine (B) THREADS.Buy a Sewing Machine before you see the WHITE. quilt.

and we will BELDING BROS. requisites in dressmaking is the thread used in sewing the seams. and made in every conceivable color and shade. then you'll need the WHITE. is The kind of embroidery material all important. PROSPECT AVENUE EMBROIDERY THREAD. elasticity and fast color. cloth. BELDING'S SEWING SILK the finest quality of raw silk. if the thread is not of the Silk thread is particularly adapted for seam making. If us. consequently. It's exclusively White. silk will wash and wear without fading. lustrous and beautiful effect that cannot be obtained with any of the imitations or substitutes. WHITE SEWING MACHINE BOTH PHONES (C) 426 CO. count of its great strength. a seam sewed with silk is infinitely stronger. Pure costs One of the (D) most important SEWING THREAD. not be generally known that silk is the strongest fiber known to mankind. & CO.. smooth and elastic. and while embroidery silk more than cotton or any of the other substitutes. the results to be obained will more than justify the difference in expense. and so available only for White at the value to buyers. is strong. they are always unsatisfactory and a garment not properly is — Page 31 . will give to a stress. no greater extravagence than to invest in a cheap worthless eye.DON'T GUESS you as a Sewing Machine user of the White Tension Indicator but see it for yourself. is made from your dealer does not carry "Belding's. trimmings. whereas a cotton or linen thread has no "give" or "stretch". Embroidery silk will give that rich. Great care may be used in selecting styles. and yet the results will be disappointing. and It may will always retain its original shape. on acproper texture. etc. and so if you are progressive and desire to do your sewing under the most advantageous conditions. Be sure to drop in and see it at first opportunity." write tell you where you can get it. 528 Broadway NEW YORK There hook and (E) HOOKS AND EYES. With it you can do work that can't possibly be done on any other machine. and that a yard of pure silk thread will stretch from two to three inches.

. free. snap fasteners or buttons. its Many to of the common The brands of hooks and eyes will rust and leave marks on your garment.N. . neatly closed and perfectly flat if you use these un ique hooks Though you can unhook them with per. Page 32 . Can not catch on trimmings. while others L-oi.. E.omng. Always Dress-hook Co. lation to They are truly a reve- on Dress.'ilson i pppp H E» d Fill Out This Coupon . O.kooks FuBI-Size Card Sent V. best thing to do to make sure that This Embarrassment Can Never Come to You if You Use the hooks that can't "pop" open accidentally or allow the dress to gape and spread. Ohio hooks are sewn.** 198 St. upstairs and I'll run fix it. Clair * y* ^* Town . Black and White colors. the back is always smooth." women accustomed to troublesome hook-.E... No matter how loose or tight your garment. making them invaluable on wash garments.* invisible they never pull they do not leave the usual "bunch" which tells where other yf' Cleveland. Cleveland.ig not go through the is laundry without pieces.. garments Address J The Wilson Dress-hook Company 198 St. J His Address. So flat . 1 My er's Deal- Ave. "Thank you. Outwear Tlense send. Name J.State. Gray. fect ease. 10c several garments. provided you have not previously had a free card Dress-hooks are guaranteed not to rust or crush in washing The Wilson and . out beyond the edse and show. and eyes. card Wilson Dress-hooks. 10c a My Name Street Ask for Wilson Dress-hooks on all ready-to-wear . N.ClairAve. They are Wilson Dress-hooks. White) previous sample Sold at notion counters everywhere (remember the orange and black card) Large and Small sizes. — Black. — will fastened is ruined. oard of one dozen.

Co. shields and dozen other seemingly trifling details. all the best of such are here. to the style book and pat- We mention: Conovers' Naiad Dress Shields Warren 's Featherbone Wilson's Hooks and Eyes £5? Embroidery Foundations Coat Fronts.. but the finish of lining. the quality of thread. realize the These women Each season fabrics finds here the newest of cloths. Page 33 . and always and pleasing assortments. because we make a specialty of all the little the linings and findings. which we find is always reliable and satisfactory and costs no more than any other good fastener. place. the kind of hook and eyes. silks in large and dress things. Coat Pads. importance of the little things not only the quality and style of fabrics. Shoulder Forms and Bust Forms The Ladies' Home Journal Patterns Reis Bros.— you have a brand that in will not rust and that will positively hold your garment recommend and use in our demonstrations the Wilson Dress Hook and Eye. We Specialists in Dressmakers'' Supplies '"THE BEST DRESSED and making of their WOMEN are most often those who take the keenest interest and pleasure in the small details clothes. Every convenience tern. is at hand. And.

Look for and accept no substitute. you should take into consideration the HEXTER'S LINING STORE Dress Makers' Supplies and 1 Tailors' Trimmings " "Everything for your Dress but the Goods 153-155 Arcade : : Euclid Avenue Entrance Page 34 . as is in the exterior. Dye Guaranteed Satin the every yard guaranteed to give satisfactory wear. cloak or garment. & CO. some of the most reliable silk manufacturers are weaving their names in the selvage of the lining as a guarantee of wear. you are assured of a If your garment does not require a or satin lining. very difficult.Belding's Pure name on the selvage. however. Belding's Pure silk Dye Guaranteed Satin. 528 Broadway NEW YORK CITY LININGS. for the average person to wear well. effect in the lining of a coat (F) It is just as essential to it have a satisfying Silk is or jacket. on account of the practice of adulteration or weighting. It is naturally the most beautiful of all fabrics for lining purposes. No fabric will wear as well as a pure dye silk fabric. In order to overcome this difficulty. satisfactory lining for your suit. BELDING BROS. select silk linings that will By procuring reliable.

cutter and fitter never attempt to make even the plainest garment without a pattern. (G) PATTERNS. you will find it easy to cut and fit and make any garment you may desire. Always select a pattern exactly your own size don't get one a size too large or a size too small. /A / \ ± ±J. Sour Risings. overcomes all obstacles.FITTED WAIST LININGS is considered one of the most important inventions of the present time. as it eliminates the endless preliminary fittings. boning. and have it stuffed up for the purposes of having her own figure for fitting 75c and draping in the workroom. or professional have to suffer before they attain the result which you obtain in a ready made Grean Fitted Waist Lining. Bloating. Pain or Distressed Feeling in the Stomach. for often you can save a yard or so of goods or save yourself from running short of material. Heartburn. the seams are very loosely stitched. or if it is a light weight waist.. Page 35 . Be careful and purchase the exact size or exactly what your measure is around the waist and you will have a good fitting lining. write us today ana we will supply you direct or give you of a reliable dealer who handles our line. and you will need to be informed as to the best. With every Pictorial Review Pattern you will find a Cutting Guide show- ing exactly how to lay on your goods to the best advantage and how to guard against making any mistakes in cutting. much time can be saved by using the Grean Fitted Lining. as new linings are constantly coming into fashion. \J XV A Digestive Tablets See ?oT 96 special offer For Indigestion. illustrating precisely how to put the garment together. 327-329 East 34th St. finish it. putting on hooks and eyes and finishing. for if you do so you will take every chance of making a complete misfit of your garment. Nausea. white and grey percaline. but simple principle which is embodied in the Grean Waist Linings. To all those who have not tried them it seems impossible. where a fitted lining is not desired the Grean Invisible Net Foundations will be most valuable to you. Belching of Gas. quality and texture of your material and go to a reliable lining store. The cost of a pattern is so small and the help they give so great that you cannot afford to take chances of wasting your goods without a pattern to guide you. and all Disagreeable Symptoms arising from a Disordered Stomach. which dressmakers at home. this affords easy ripping if a fitting is necessary and all the fitting is done at the upper part of the waist in all instances. and in white and black Corsica silk. but you may rest assured that the new. This & 51 - 00 name Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Company. They are all finished. fitting. the If your dealer cannot supply you. New York weight. If you are lining a waist that needs a fitted lining. Every person should buy one of grey percaline fitted to herself. so with this Manual of Sewing and Dress Making and a Pictorial Review Pattern. Always get your pattern before buying your goods if possible. asking them to show you their newest and most appropriate linings for the purpose which you desire. They are made in linolawnblack. 25 cents per box y (^ jTV " pTTfvn l\. but above the boned portions and on the shoulders. Dyspepsia. which is ready for use without having the trouble of cutting. boned. Unless you are an experienced designer. There is also a Construction Guide. according to sty!e. have hooks and eyes in the back or front. by knowing exactly the — required amount to make the article in question.

. also in India Linon. Made "W." Bias Seam Tape INDISPENSABLE IN THE SEWING ROOM Saves half the work making a garment. NEW YORK. F. and for this BIASSEAHTAPt It turns itself "W. For the waist you will need it in many instances.— (H) It is TAPE. Silk. 4 widths (5-16 in. for the support for the hooks and eyes. i in highest grade n - to 1 in. E. wide). Wm. to }A in. Sample reference book free. while on your skirts your seam must be bound.? White and (*4 colors. TRADE MARK REGISTERED Once used Always used Beware of Imitations AT ALL DEALERS A is very useful article for piping. for the binding around the neck and armholes and many other purposes. showing colors. Page 36 . Dept. Wright 40 Lispenard St. not shrink. & N. almost impossible to make any article of wearing apparel without tape. Mf rs . &N. finishing or It will binding seams on all materials and for fagotting. a necessity in the home sewing room." Bias Seam Tape Are you taking advantage of its Cambric and Lawn. widths and quality of materials.. & Sons Co. 13 widths Pure Linen and wide) usefulness.

Bias Seam Tape. We use in our demonstrations and always recommend the Naiad Dress Shield. Added to these the fact that an unreliable shield will not wash and cannot be kept sanitary makes it imperative to procure a good reputable shield that can be relied upon to protect your gown or jacket. (I) DRESS SHIELDS. you will find that a support of the W. protecting your garments shield reliable When dress — so many the The Crowning Attribute of Lovely Woman is Cleanliness NAIAD DRESS SHIELD SUPREME Beauty ! IN Quality ! Cleanliness ! POSSESSES two important and exclusive features. there is an odor from the rubber of the cheaper shields that is very offensive to a refined woman. Narrow Bias Seam Tape means an additional wear of many months. of from perspiration be sure and select a cheaper shields on the market today are anything but satisfactory and the ruined waists showing the stains just below the shields are a result of their use.I!. instead of facing. and when you have an embroidered edge to your garment as seen in Lesson 79. On your underwear you will need it to bind over your embroidery ruffles.N. Page 37 .. & N. you will see this tape neatly put on with the tiniest of slant stitch making a support just below the scallop of the embroidered edge and you will find it most satisfactory to follow their example. & N. which nothing in the world of the kind can rival in daintiness and beauty. It does not deteriorate with age and fall to powder in the dress can be easily and quickly sterilized by immersing Guarantee with Every Pair in boiling water for a few seconds only.. And then too. tOnOVer LO. 101 Franklin St. which is ready for use and turns itself so the edge is always neat and even.— purpose no tape answers so well as the W. f* Manufacturers. stores or sample pair on receipt of 25 Tl 1 he f* T* /"* t. At the cents.Y. On the Parisian lingerie.

for all tailors use only the Warren Feather Boning.(J) BONING. Michigan Page 38 . collar-bones. Linings. insist and leaded dress weights that they are u -ip^M&tt" YtMendif£u Three Oaks. giving permanent shape To bone a waist Send for requires less than 10 minutes our Instruction Booklet with attachment for machine FREE When buying waist-bones. first it makers and subject of boning can be quickly disposed of. as best known and most reputable boning on the market. Girdles and Collars because Stitching bone in on by machine holds the place. girdles collar-sets. collar-foundations. The class dress- is by far the (The Perfect Boning) for Waists.

If you are ^eiiftxriii It's You The Wonderful Pneumatic Dress Form Sold In Many First Class Stores Pneu Form is the easiest and handiest dress form the world to manipulate. skirt and dress making and fitting or for dress repairing at home.(K) If DRESS FORMS. To make Pneu Form perfectly. you simply inflate it inside your fitted waist lining and before you stands YOU shoulders. It relieves you of tiresome standing hour after hour for fittings. bust and hips with looking glass — — fidelity. 557 Fifth Ave. jjBK fitting and holds draping it all Page 39 . Pneumatic Form Company J.. reproduce your form. For waist. containing full description and prices. nothing can possibly take the place of Pneu Form. and enables you to study your own form while you work upon your own garments. serves for any number of persons by simply changing the waist lining. you do your own dressmaking or have it done at your home you should by all means provide yourself with a Dress Form. Pneu Form is mounted on an adjustable standard rod which may be raised or lowered to the exact height desired. near NEW YORK Nothing so good for skirt And base this little box tlwi S». Write today for new illustrated booklet' "It's You.6th St. but to save yourself the time and the tediousness of trying on your gowns. One Pneu Form." Edition H-I. not only as a means to secure correct and perfect lines and insure a well fitting garment. It is the practical invention of a woman and consists of a nonleakable air chamber made of specially prepared m and well covered rubber cloth.

making your own gowns there is no way without assistance that you can fit yourself without a Dress Form.. stands without tiring. simply and durably made. and YOUR VERY IMAGE in lines and proportions can be reproduced with a Hall-Borchert and Majestic GUARANTEED Perfect Fitting Dress — Form — Every style included Adjustable and Non-Adjustable— of which we show a large variety for every purpose and figure. Skirt can be adjusted to any style and can be raised or lowered to any desired skirt length. With a dress form which reproduces your own lines perfectly you will be able to get a better fitting garment than if it was tried on yourself. $5. If you sew. Shears and Tape Measure. and get the benefit of Notion Dept.. $1. Euclid. Dress forms are now considered just as necessary just as indispensable to equipment of t . have a dress form by all means buy it at The May Co. saves time and annoyance and its cost — many times over. $2. $8.00.50. can be adjusted at neck.00. conforming to any size or shape desired. Correct model bust and dress forms at $1. main floor. hips. tiresome fittings you change position so often that you are liable to change your lines. — — t^ —of trying to see dress fits in the how your back or how —effectively by the use of the skirt hangs with the aid of a looking glass need no longer trouble you if you have a Dress Form of your exact figure. $12. etc. Pictorial Review Pattcis 10c & 15c Main EAGLE STAMPS FREE with Every Purchase Floor Euclid Page 40 .e sewing room as the Sewing Machine. waist.00.00.00. and the fit of your garment is of far more importance than the quality of the material.50. a Dress Form of proper size and shape to aid you the form is always ready. and will last a lifetime.00 and $15. Hall-Borchert's complete correct Model Adjustable Form is in every way up to date. $10.50. these economical prices. for during the tedious. $3.

A person with a dull. Dress Forms made and your dealer will gladly demonstrate them to you. 1 COVERED tooR DE R ^ ^ of Second Door East Opera House Page 41 . When you have a gown or suit that needs trimming. their All first-class dressmakers desirous of saving their customers' time. but take a sample of your goods and go to a first-class dress trimming establishment and ask to be shown suitable trimmings for your goods and often you will find something new and attractive that in the ordinary way would have escaped your atten- The plainest. Cleveland Dress Trimming Company ^ V^ 4 6 Euclid Ave. do not go to the first store you happen to pass and take anything that may be presented to you. laces. One can always procure such a variety of silks. braids. and which is impossible to get when you fit yourself We show two of the most reliable reputable without one of these forms.the entire fit of your gown be of ruined. tedious woman (L) DRESS TRIMMINGS. that a harmonious. bands and special trimmings. form. if only a dash of it. the fitted in the old. for and own as well. are supplied with a dress today has neither the time or the patience to be manner. suitable and desirable effect can be obtained. You should secure a Dress Form before attempting to make any of the up-to-date gowns. most inexpensive gown can be made attractive with well selected trimming. should usually be chosen. colorless complexion must always study the trimmings and adornment of their costume and some bright color. tion entirely. whose beauty depend so much upon the graceful lines.

1 — Cut lessly. F. confusing the one who is up valuable space with unnecessary repetitions. your placket opening down exactly the right length. Do not do it carebut see that your pattern is laid on correctly and pinned securely and that you cut accordingly. your placket binding exactly after your pattern. Kirby Building MAIN 1565 No Waiters O'Brien Building MAIN 3914 Lesson 63. Home Cooking No Waiting Prices Reasonable M. both edges of the opening must be faced. Your skirt will never fit smoothly across the back of the hips if you do. that you do not opening of the plackets. unless perhaps. P. or in trying of the stretch the edges 4 — Be —Use belt. Page 42 7— In . The bottom of the placket must be made secure on the under side.CHAPTER VII. to get 2 — Cut easily into it on. 6 We most highly recommend the notch at the right place on — See that the placket comes to the exact your making a placket. Don't have it too long nor yet so short an opening that you immediately tear open the placket. The mark which reveals the inexperienced or careless sewer is more quickly and more likely to be seen in the finish of the placket than in any other part of your garment. upper fold. SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS In the following lessons we teach you the right way of making each part of a garment and in the succeeding lessons whenever that portion of the article is to be made. C. 3 — Be careful in picking up your skirt. it be in the making of the buttonholes. just far enough the garment. Wilson Hook and Eye. (Lesson the eyes sewed on the under facing and the hooks on the facing of the 53). The following rules must be observed. only the best of hooks and eyes. reference will be made to the specific lesson treating of that particular subject instead of repeating the and over again. careful that every stitch that shows through on the right side be positive 5 and even. Stretching these edges means always a full baggy look. same general instructions over seeking information and also taking SENSIBLE PLACES TO LUNCH EUCLID CAFETIERE 328 Euclid Ave.— PLACKETS. Luncheon 11 to 2 NEW CENTER LUNCH CLUB 813 Prospect Ave.

3 With boning above and below the belting to form a pointed bodice into shape. You can get the Grean Belt in three distinct styles: 1 Having bones as wide as the belting. the Grean Co. Cleveland. for the draping of waists. Skirts and dresses at present are made with high belt.— BELTS AND BANDS. 2j^ inches wide and fitted by gusset seams and boned Lesson BELTS AND BANDS. but a peplum is much easier especially to fit. have improved this method by offering a seamless shaped belt thoroughly shrunk. If double. for ordinary belting. No Married Lady Should Be Without This Wonderful Antiseptic SANAR REMEDY 746 Euclid Avenue CO.A. 64. For sale by all upon leading druggists or mailed to you receipt of 50 cents. Turn over the under edge and hem down to cover the seam on the inside of the garment. If the belt or band is faced sew the straight strip and the facing together and proceed the same as directed above. For this purpose wide belting is used. Turn the top of the folded edge toward the garment and stitch. A trial will convince you of its merits. A peplum is used instead of a belt or band or draw string to hold down at the waist and Page 43 . which is a feature not to be overlooked in wash dresses. — — — effect. especially as wide belting shrinks from one to three inches to the ward. The object of the bone above the belt is especially useful to unlined or loose linings as some of the material can be draped or attached to boning.— YOKE AND PEPLUMS— A yoke is a very particular part of a garment to make.^. If desired the belt or band can then be entirely stitched around. 2 With bones ejecting above the belting.^XA. Ohio Lesson 65. For the Use of Careful Refined Women A A K^ C* A\ T\T l\ T"} ^ AA. cut a straight piece double the width desired.— The belt or doubled or may However.band may be of one piece be of one piece lined or faced. Healing and Soothing Antiseptic Ever Used for a Douche for Practically All Female Weakness Sanar can be used without fear of injuring the* most delicate or affected tissues as it does not smart or burn and is highly recommended by many of the most eminent physicians in this country.'V K I XI -r Safe Reliable Effective The Wonderful Cleansing.

peplum — gather the waist or corset cover if it at the yaist line and put on exactly as were a skirt you were attaching. West 25th. style many the peplum waist. Opposite New Market Page 44 Etc. Rugs. For the seams. fitting of the peplum all adjustments must be made at the joining is You should be it sure the pattern exactly the right is size about the waist before using. Cut out (Lesson Baste up. All alterations for the neck seam both on the shoulders and must be made from the shoulder seams only. fit and alter (Lesson 77). of the fashionable waists of today the is However. . COMF>AMY "Where things are as represented" A GREAT STORE ALWAYS BUSY Prices Always as 5"flK3 Low or Lower Than Elsewhere Dry Goods. be entirely done from the shoulder seams If it The fitting of the yoke must and the small space of the under arm seams. Sew up seams If If either by machine or by hand (Lesson 41). but cases a yoke must be most carefully 76). is a part of the of garment and worn outside of the In is such not instances the in peplum must be exceptionally well any and all fitted or the good.keep in in proper position the gathers of the corset cover or waist. effect fitted. tight or will Care must be taken that the peplum not made too draw up and wrinkle. yoke — attach collar (Lesson 66 or 68). Ready-to-Wear. across the chest in wrinkles let is too tight if or draws out from under the arm and too loose in the neck and across the chest take up the under the arms.

W"-"^ made \ \ so. 2—Turn seams around lining should be of cambric — Hem down with slant - Lesson 66. which if is 3 necessary for the material which you are using. 10.' /'-'<> /jVA/ < 'C-'/y /. unless you are experienced in tailoring. Men's coats are never and invariably made in ' \ i \\ \ \ \ i /' ' ' ' 1 ' either black or grey cloth. turning under the edge and carefully overcast (see Lesson 6).— TAILORED COLLARS. It is not necessary any more to make collars of cloth to match on the ' .-JJ^C? Made Coat -^i ^hia is .— HIGH entire COLLARS. 9.' . Press again. being careful to keep the goods and the canvas and the lining always perfectly smooth. taking great pains that your stitches do not show any more than you can help and that you have entirely covered the seam of the underpart of the collar and that you have kept an even line. Grean for those who find it difficult to shape an<^ ma ke the under-collar. 3. / / ' . 8. so best to buy the under collars ready made. i underpart. Sew around the bottom edge and the sides and turn right side out. in collar supports (Lesson 60). designed by Mr. write us. If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealer's. . Catch the edges of the canvas to the cloth with the catch stitch (see Lesson 11). sufficient 1 in collar to hide lining. Tailor-Notch < .' ' \ vl | e_ 13C Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Company New York 327-329 East 34th Street.in its proper place. * -. 5. in the A it perfect cut of tailored collars is shown above figure. 4 5 6 — Sew —Sew —Sew on all trimmings and ornaments. \f'i 1 / .--V/ • '.' v/m "-- / ' ' '\ \ * Collar. 4. 2.'/] . cutting it out the seam's width from the edges. for the canvas cannot be sewed in the seam with the lining without making it a little bunglesome. but if you wish to try to them yourself the following instructions should be followed: make Cut out exactly after pattern. Lay right side of goods to right side of lining and baste. Then bring the outside material of collar neatly and smoothly down. "Tailor /ff. Large stitches and an uneven turn of the material of the collar would ruin the appearance of the most beautiful suit. taking care the stitches do not show through. on hooks and eyes (Lesson 59). 7. Press very carefully.— Cut out (Lesson 76). The tailored collars are rather difficult to is make 1. . . Lesson 67. so the canvas will keep . 6. Attach lining of collar to right side of garment and sew down by machine. Baste in soft pliable French canvas after you have carefully shrunk it. We will supply you direct or through a reliable dealer and send you a catalogue of other dressmaking helps. You will find Orean Tailor Made Coat Collars beautifully shaped and pressed. Collars" a regular //-^^\ A /i'/""" /A *J'f r'/x'f /'. Sew on trimming. Accept no imitations or substitutes. stitch.

or the Page 46 . and domestic qualities and your physical condition correctly diagnosed. 20). 3 — If lined turn right of lining to right of collar. material. Ohio kind in The only incorporated College of Our students and satisfied patrons the United States and Europe. are found throughout Lesson 68.YOUR CHARACTER SKETCH SCIENTIFICALLY GIVEN By the Expert and Noted Character Readers of the Acme Your perfectly defined College of Science — Incorporated under the laws of Ohio 1907 social Est. 6 If collar is to be left separate turn inside edges and neatly stitch or sew down by hand. America. most pliable French canvas and baste it smoothly on the wrong side of the 2 — — Cut out (Lesson 76). using the fine running stitch slant stitch (Lesson (Lesson 5). softest.— TURN DOWN 1 COLLARS. personal The Acme College 1714 of Science its Adams St. 1899 abilities. business. Price $1. capacities.. 5 right right side side edge of to of garment and —Turn — collar under side of edge of and hem down neatly to cover seam. as Your character sketch three above stated and any questions scientifically and answered by mail.00. 4 — If collar to attach of top to ment turn collar stitch. and is stitch at outer gar- edge. perfectly Strictly confidential. only If stiffening is necessary use cambric or the finest. Toledo.

See Cutting Guide. page 51. but for garments where a permanent and a good shoulder They add a perfect outline to all shoulders. 1Take a straight strip of the material. Grean has designed special shoulder forms for different weight of garments from the lightest weight silk and taffeta. at the notch where the fullness begins in the sleeve and turning the right of the sleeve to the right of the cuff tack to the notch in the cuff — For No. page 54. and fitters must use their judgment.— Follow instructions (Lesson 69). — — — — — Lesson 70. as to what to use.— SLEEVES. in edges of other side. not noticeable. 4 Hem. bottom of 6— Find the 5 1 and 3. Straight. High. lay right side against right side of goods. 8 Gather top of sleeve between exact notches. Baste to cover seam and sew either by hand or on machine. or face. thin. on and if Try al- necessary make (Lesson 77). full- and tack again where the ness being most careful to have the notches come exactly together. inside the coat. and Sloping. and Construction Guide. where the fullness starts. but much of the difficulty is removed if proper care is taken in observing the directions and in- structions and paying strict at- tention to the 1 notches. . except the opening of the sleeve where cuff is attached must be faced back. gather sleeve. (Lesson 2— Baste up seams. the bottom terations. 9 Attach where notches of waist designate. They fit is desired. Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. Page 47 . Many beginners think sleeves are the hardest part of the garment to put together. 15c Per Pair Shoulder forms are made in different outlines. pliable. 76). The ordinary lap closing is made the same as the lap pocket. ends. 327-329 East 34th St. — — of the sleeve or cuff.— SHIRT WAIST SLEEVE. — Cut out. are basted to canvas and you wA\ save a number of hours of alterations. New York Lesson 69.PATENTED SHOULDER FORMS Shoulder Forms are used not for disfigured shoulders. Some are padded. to the heaviest automobile and fur garments. and some are not. (Lesson 48). 2 Baste 3 4 — — —Turn down evenly and sew on machine. if you will begin to fit by first placing the shoulder form in suchposition as you would like to have your coat appear. 10 Sew in securely on machine. (Lesson 53).. 3 Sew up seams on machine and press. 7 Baste together cuff and sleeve and sew in securely on machine. Mr.

is an article used always by that have filling ever tried it. If more of the fullness than COMBINATION This AR1VI PAD all fitters Combination Arm Pad. —Cut two straight strips. designed for the purpose of correcting the general hollow parts between the Arm Hole and the Bust. but outside of seam. The coat sleeve is made For this purpose the sleeve roll of the Grean Dressmaking Specialties will be found very useful. turning the top of strip either with perfectly square corners or in a neat V shape. CUFFS— PLAIN BAND. New York is c Page 48 . and seven are omitted. except your cuffs are either are attached at the bottom of the cuffs waist six Lesson 72.— — Lesson 71. write us and we will either your order or direct you to a reliable merchant.. —The coat sleeve is much simpler as steps exactly according to instructions of Lesson 69. It is very simple in construction. cuff. which is so much in vogue now. the bands are cut double width and turned back and hemmed over the seam which joins cuff and sleeve. if the material is soft you can press out the material is hard or harsh. — Cut out exactly after pattern. Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. underlap put right side of strip to right side of sleeve 3 — Turn back and stitch by machine on both sides of strips. The 1 lap closing as seen in sleeve No. The latter is much neater and gives a more tailored finish the top piece of the cuff is sewed into the seam. COAT SLEEVE.— LAP CLOSING. 2— lined turn right side of lining to right side of goods and stitch sides and bottom of 3 — Turn right side out and stitch again at the very edge of the —Attach as step 6 (Lesson 69). except that the top of the flat coat sleeve. but a few suggestions mill make it plain just as 6 how 7 awkward for the to make them. Stitch your goods well over it. The cuffs belonging to the sleeves are sometimes a little beginner. 3. CUFF. • — For upper lap sew on in same manner. TURN BACK Make exactly the same as for shirt made of double length to turn back or instead of at the top.. are completed before attaching to sleeve. 327-329 E. Baste inside of the sleeve. but instead of facing. 2— For 4 and the stitch. requires a little soft foundation. If fill and your dealer cannot supply you.— of Lesson 69. or you may — Attach sleeve to lining of the cuff and turn back right edge of cuff and If cuff. plain The Band Cuffs are put on the same and CUFF— (Shirt They 1 Waist). and put on edge of pressing board. cuff. put damp cloth over and hold down firmly until you have pressed out all the superfluous fullness. 4 5 stitch to than when cover seam. 34th St.

Croup and Protection Against Pneumonia An old proverb says: "Never neglect a fresh cold if you would avoid sickness. together with the use of certain remedies in the treatment of the disease. the Price 50c per bottle The Zoa-Phora Cold Remedy and the Zoa-Phora LaGrippe Remedy are for sale at 50c per bottle at alllfirst-class drug stores. The patch pocket. hut showing its greater From these deductions. viz. Since the tiilly now justly famous ZOA-PHORA LaGRIPPE REMEDY. is very simple to make.: Sneezing. and_ revoice. Zoa-Phora La Grippe Remedy first invasion of the disease known as LaGrippe in this country. but restores the parts to healthy action. Such you have in Zoa-Phora Cold Cure.—POCKETS.— Persons suffering thus are martyrs to every change of weather. Back stitch the pouch into the slit of the garment and stitch on the lap. thus preventing a tedious and perhaps dangerous illness. as seen in Lessons 87 and 107. Pengelly's Sure Shot) FOR Colds. it should be fastened as Measure one-eighth inch above and one-eighth below the slit and mark. For partial list see page 96 of this book. been made at the bottom and both sides of the lap. pain in the temples. except that their outer edge is usually joined in the facing or with the seam of the ruffle. headache. which treatment. blurred eyes. sore throat or nostrils." More suffering comes from neglected colds than from all other causes. Pengelly was led to formulate force on the weaker parts. ZOA-PHORA COLD REMEDY Its improves the sight and hearing- most remarkable storing the impaired of effect is the clearing of the head. letting the needle pass through the entire thickness After a row of stitching has of threads from the bottom mark to the top. These investigations. A NEGLECTED COLD. The pocket should be of heavy mercerized goods made into a pouch the desired depth. Repeat this process until you have firmly secured the slit— then bring the thread through and work over and over. if taken promptly on the first signs of the disease— known by aching of the head. cough. The lap pocket as shown in the figure of the coat in Lesson 96. Dr. The lap must be cut on an exact grain of the goods and should be lined with silk or some light material. dullness of hearing and smell. rendering the disease still more difficult to treat. and results. and at the same time increasing the severity of the usual symptoms. Hem tops and turn in bottom and both sides and stitch on garment. brow or cheek. convinced the Doctor that LaGrippe was (from whatever inducing cause) a sudden and general congestion attacking more or less the whole system. etc. Page 49 . Then draw your thread from the top mark in a straight line to the bottom mark and back again on the opposite side of the goods. Dr. slit from tearing into the cloth. is the only one very much in evidence these days. A speedy and safe cure is invaluable. SoreThroat. It does not operate on the douche principle merely drying up and washing out the secretions. tightness at the root of the nose. symptoms. throat. and stitch on the lap.Lesson 73. Sewing Apron pockets are made in the same way. back and limbs sometimes with chilly sensations and nausea— will almost invariably meet and control the disease. Cough. Penhad been a careful student of its nature. To keep the follows: Zoa-Phora Cold Remedy (Formerly Dr. The most trifling exposure renews the attack. back stitch the pouch into the slit of the garment.

rinsing in warm water good as new. just as a magnet attracts steel. Lesson 74. Lesson 75. all Sold by good dealers. garment to hold its shape better. Wool goods should be laid right side down and a wet Repeat at ironing sheet placed over it and ironed until it is perfectly dry.Shino Dust Absorbing Articles Reduces the Labor of Dusting and Polishing One-half. but twice is better. but in case one is not at hand one must always. Simplex Mop Handle. Much of the beauty of a gown depends upon its pressing. An electric flatiron is a great advantage to the woman doing her own dressmaking. attract dust.— PRESSING. Very thin goods should not be sponged Sponging not only helps your or shrunken. least once. Always have a good piece of cotton long enough to cover the entire seam. wring out and then press until dry. but prevents its spotting and wrinkling so much. lint and germs. Shino Chemical Floor Polisher. Dampen and iron till the cloth is perfectly dry then dampen once again and repeat the pressing. f*. especially in making a wool garment.— SPONGING AND SHRINKING. but your goods will Ginghams and stay fresh and in shape long enough to pay for your trouble. Shino Chemical Handle Duster. for a good presser can straighten out a multitude of little defects in sewing and stitching. as the result of a marvelous chemical process. Page 50 . to. with dust. This is a slow process. In pressing folds always see that the fold is perfectly straight. Shino articles. have a hot flat iron conveniently near. while a poor presser can make the most carefully put together garment look badly. If you are not good at pressing it would be best to baste back your seams in their exact place until you get more accustomed to pressing them in place. Cleveland. Shino Chemical Mitten Duster. When filled makes them The The The The The The The Shino Chemical Dust Cloth. especially anything with a mesh. r»l| Ine rioneerMrg. Wool goods should nearly always be sponged and shrunken as should ginghams and linens. and in pressing sleeves one should shrink considerable of the fulness that is apt to occur on the inside seam of the arm at the elbow. always remembering it is almost impossible to put too much good press work on a garment. linens should be dipped in water in which has been placed a handful of salt. Ohio CHAPTER VIII. or sent postpaid by the manufacturers. Shino Chemical Dust Mop. Shino Chemical Broom Cover. Ail 4" f* 522 ° Sweeney Ave.

just as an expert would lay it out in order to cut it from the least possible material. and no Mistakes are impossible with this guide before you. 823 Superior N.Main 2189 SEWING MACHINE SUPPLIES AND REPAIRS BRYSON CO.. There is absolutely no chance of cutting one piece the wrong way of the goods.— CUTTING GUIDE. One accompanies every Pictorial Review pattern. CUTTING. No CUTTING GUIDE 4069 FOLD more than you OF 54 INCH MATERIAL WITHOUT Pictorial NAP' their need. No chance of wasting an inch of material mistakes. No chance of cutting two backs or two fronts because a careless folder picked up two pieces instead of one. we show their patent cutting guide. Central 2259-L For prices on any Sewing Machine or Supplies PHONE or CALL on Expert Repairer will Call and Give Estimate Lesson 76. E. (See Department 6). It shows just how to lay out the pattern on the goods correctly and scientifically. — Page 51 . cutting guide a child Review Patterns are error proof and with can lay out and cut a garment as well as an expert. Pictorial Review Co. By courtesy of the CUTTING GUIDE 4-4/0 SIDE 6ftCK C^ POLO OP 36 INCH MflTERIflL WITH NAP BflO puzzling for hours to find how to lay out the pattern properly. 1 Before beginning see that you have every thing necessary to go ahead.

your is thrown out when you start to make alterations. to 2 P. M. Main-2371-J C— 6417 r £ ar=H r=]G "N \ The Mandarin No. to 2 P. M. but get your own size otherwise the entire proportion of your garment 2 —Provide yourself style. Page 52 . After Theatre Parties a Specialty Private Dining Rooms Reserved for Dinner Parties Special Attention Given Ladies without Escorts Our Kitchen is Open for Inspection to Patrons from 11:30 A.M.M.with a good paper pattern for your size and suitable to height and individuality. Do not make the mistake of buying a pattern a size too large or a size too small. and one chosen with due regard for the material to be made up and for the occasion of the wearing of the garment. 622 Prospect Avenue ^n i — i i =ir=i i==i r=i i= ir^=: it=H Cleveland's Finest and Most Elaborate Chinese-American Cafe Shoppers' Novelty FROM 11 Luncheon A.

6 Follow exactly the construction guide for laying on your pattern which you have altered to fit your figure. being most wrinkles either pattern or goods. 9— When absolutely sure every piece in careful to have it perfectly flat and — errors. and will save you many possible is — 8— Pin down the pattern. UnlO LakeWOOd. 10 Then with tailor's chalk or with a colored cotton thread run a line showing all the marks and perforations of the pattern. See that every piece is on precisely the — your material as designated on the construction guide. 11 —Then proceed to baste together as is directed in Lesson 77. no properly laid on cut out with very sharp shears so the goods are not frayed or haggled and under no circumstances fail to cut out every notch indicated on the pattern. A RELIABLE STORE The Boston Dry Goods 8813-17 Wade Park Avenue 13592 Euclid Avenue 8601 Detroit Avenue 14712 Detroit Avenue Co. for preparation. Striped or plaid materials must be perIf the fectly matched so the strips run into the seams on the same angle. The nap should always rub down except velvet. This is of vital importance to the success of your garment.your goods are wool or gingham or such as need attention follow directions (see Lesson 74). at prices that are no more and often less than elsewhere Good Values Courtesy Page S3 Progressiveness . which furnished free with every Pictorial Review pattern.. flowered or have a design see that it all runs in the same direction. goods are 7 When the width of the goods will permit lay the pattern on the double fur or plush. 5 If the garment has a lining cut the lining out first. and if your goods have a nap very strict attention must be given that the grain or nap lie in the same direction. and ac- cording to the construction guide. baste it up and make all necessary alterations of the pattern (Lesson 77). and fit it perfectly 3 If — — — before cutting into the dress goods.-. until you have made sure what it is and where it belongs. then it fold. Cleveland . right angle of should rub up. 4 Iron out every piece of your pattern and identify each section and if there is any doubt in your mind compare it with the similar piece on the construction guide. Ohio Selling Merchandise that bears the Stamp of Quality.

Do not attempt to put your garment together without this construction guide. making of waists. which protrude above the belting and are finished with hooks and This is the new eyes. The" made with a wide. write us. according to waist measure. to be guided by the waist and not by the bust. It tifully BEACH GROVE improvements are being and homes erected." "VOTES FOR WOMEN are not so necessary as 44 Greanet »» LOTS FOR Many WOMEN are buying Invisible Home of them Sites in Waist Foundations Are used in making light weight lace or chiffon waists where a t ght-fitting lining would be out of place. boning. is shaped seamless belt. and needs to be fitted only by adjusting the seams above the boned portions and on the shoulders. work and worry can be avoided by procuring the Grean Fitted Waist Linings and Foundations as it saves all of the labor of cutting basting. Cen. and the upper part of coarse Net which forms just the right kind of a foundation for light waists. specially for the summer or for warm climates. or through a reliable dealer. New York Lesson 77. etc. Williamson Bldg. 121. constantly before you for it In the — CONSTRUCTION GUIDE 44JQ SLEEVE SECTIONS 'SIDE will BACK C plainly which pieces to join together and just where to join see that the notches correspond and that the seams are taken up on exactly the line shown and that each portion of your goods is in ar- them.. Take Euclid Beach Car to Beach Grove on Lake where all installed Shore Boulevard.. FITTING AND ALTERATION. get off at East 152nd St. beauboned. We will supply you direct. 122 If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealers. Grean System of Fitting. But if you decide to make your own lining or foundation the following directions must be carefully followed. #100 down and $10 month buys a lot 40x125 for $750. Main 5283 Ground Floor 327-329 East 34th Street. hours of time. 2044 Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co.— CONSTRUCTION. or the one accompanying your pattern. ONELLY 120. show you Always Page 54 . putting on the hooks and eyes. These are made in Black and White.

cut it out. White Sewing Machine Co. for it takes time. With a great many Rotary machines in order to remove the Shuttle one has to use a screw driver and take out three screws. We shall be glad to demonstrate it at any time..Have rpT?T T TIVT/^'C 1 EEd lULLllMjiS ICECREAM? CONSTRUCTION GUIDE4069 French . but with the White you simply a very raise a latch. all necessary alterations before cutting into the dress goods. It's with another time saver which herringbone belting hooks and the busy operator will surely appreciate.«e . Your Dealer BOTH PHONES 426 Prospect Ave. Boned Girdle A SCREW is DRIVER. for the effect lies in perfect lines and it is impossible to obtain these without good basting. Form Made wide of Finished handy tool to have around. Black or White ^. If the garment has a lining..American cordance with the diagram of your construction guide. For Unlined Waists and Dresses USE Grean Shaped Seamless. and make See cut 4410. put it together and fit it. but naturally. Page 55 Sizes 22 to 33 inclusive Waist Measure. r 35c at eyes Don't forget it! The White Rotary means more to you in a sewing way than you can think. you don't care to use it unnecessarily. The greatest of care should be taken in the basting up of the seams of your garment.

Monks Osteopathic Physician 302 Lennox Building Treatments by Appoin tmen t Res. Margaret B. Bell South 188-L Off. Bell Main 3938 .Central Dr.

and its length adjusted from the bottom or six inches below the hips. After you have properly cut and fit and altered the lining of the waist and measured and adjusted the pattern of your skirt. much of the a hygenic and than absolutely necessary.. between shoulders or across chest or at neck or armhole. that it is better to take up fullness as possible. the necessary width. edges of the gores. Begin at the same point six inches below the waist and decrease the size of the seam. To take up skirt at waist. Ohio Page 57 . being careful to keep a perfect seam line. which you are following in making the garment in hand and you cannot fail to have a well fitting. Gymnasium Open Oct. The same general instructions of careful work and perfect fitting and correct alterations apply to the making of all garments. 1 Summer Camp Apply to the 1 Open July 1 to June Systematic Exercise and Recreation Young Women's Christian Association Prospect Avenue and 18th Cleveland. carefully but before the outside material is cut into you must know that your pattern and lining are both altered exactly right.If garment wrinkles. Then follow the specific instructions of the lesson. and fill in the hollow of the back by sanitary pad. If the hips are too large. Electric Light and Shower Rest West Side Branch Franklin and W. and let out gradually the seams the deIncrease also the side sired width. To alter for large abdomen. Begin six inches below the waist line. and the same general instructions apply. but do not alter any seams to remedy this trouble. 1 Boating Bathing Out of Door Life Turkish. 32nd Lake Grove Farm St. at the hip line of the front and side gores. Care must always be taken alter To for — — — not to take too large a seam across the hips. except the front and the front edges of the side gore seams. Baths Massage Madison. —Take arm up a seam. until you have a perfect fit. hole. Or if skirt must be enlarged at waist. Skirts must be altered in the seams. and gradually slant to meet the side back seams. Begin six inches below the hip line and gradually take up the seam. you will then be ready to cut into your dress goods. — — — and backs. Begin six inches below the hip line and decrease the width of the seam. If the hips are too small. well made gown. alterations must be made from the shoulder seams and arm hole. for if too tight the skirt will wrinkle and draw.To alter for very straight figures. Begin six inches below the waist line and increase seam gradually until the correct size is obtained about the waist. however. as alter. extending each gore an inch at the top. Ohio Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister to Sept. than to alter the back of the skirt any more Fpr flat — the back seams. Begin six inches below the waist line of remembering. two inches below the lower line of the Square or Sloping Shoulders.

more our duty to ourself as well as to others to be all that is bright and healthy and beautiful. In fact the well groomed woman studies herself. at birth. one who exhibits cleanliness. tears or spots are ever visible and no hooks. Seventh Floor. contains no chemicals. Ohio CLEVELAND. 50c and S1.00 boxes. & P. the wrinkles erased and the beauty greatly increased by the nightly application of these well known B. eyes or buttons ever missing and her shoes are always clean Her skirts always hang evenly and her belt never is out of place or shined. handkerchiefs She always has her hair neatly and and neckwear and all her are immaculately clean and no rips. Wrinkle Eradicators. SCIENTIFIC BEAUTY CULTURE. fairy-like figures and a painfully thin woman does not show good teste in wearing stripes and such combinations as are supposed to be worn only by women desiring to reduce the appearance of their size. Scientific beauty culture means bodily and scientific —that to is. including booklet on care of face. Schofield Bldg. on receipt of price. FROWNERS are for the lines between the eyes. The well groomed woman's clothes are never loud or conspicuous and the colors always harmonize not only with the occasion for wearing. which make the face look old and cross are unnecessary— remove them with the Crown and Bridgework a Specialty B. or reds or pinks or any of the colors or materials suitable only for slight. and above all her collar is always in perfect position and neatly fastened fancy pins or with invisible fasteners. dress. postpaid. B. It Mother Nature gave the wisest everyone. leaves no marks. safe. & P. Both are put up in 25c. telling marks of time.— CHAPTER woman The well harmony and appropriateness of groomed becomingly fineries is XII. These unsightly. THE WELL GROOMED WOMAN. We cannot be this if our livers are out of order and our complexion anything but what we would wish open pores. Wrinkle Eradicators Simple. skin dry and is — Frank Dowd DENTIST LOOK OLD? Wrinkles are only skin deep. certain. care or culture of that beauty which or less. The skin can be made smooth. (Two Women) 1790 East 68th Street Cleveland. together with an appreciation of the appropriate either with and the beautiful. OHIO Page 58 . dressed —her gloves. & P. and gowns herself to express an innate sense of refinement and good taste. but with her If she is inclined to be stout she does not wear plaids individuality and style. Sold at drug and department stores. CO. If your dealer cannot supply you we will send by mail. neatness.

$2. $5. Bottle. $2.00. Paris and Nice. illness and time. with a line like a big wrinkle. 75c.50) lost contour.50. lined. W. $6. Faithfully used they accomplish the most wonderful results everything that is claimed for them. a splendid face wash. by antiseptic $2. either that a gross ''double-chin" is beginning to form. $3. for tender. LONDON 92 21 West 38th Street. or that the muscles and tissues of the cheeks have become relaxed. Bottle. originated. Adair exclusively. TIRED EYE TREATMENT restores tired. $1. GANESH EASTERN BALM SKIN FOOD $3.50.00. FACIAL MASSAGE. NEW YORK. to become deeper day by day.50. WRITE FOR VALUABLE BOOK containing list of all GANESH Preparations and Treatments and much beauty information and advice. including the Strapping Muscle Treatment. and in consequence there are flabby. holGANESH EASTERN MUSCLE OIL braces sagging muscles. corners of eyes and over forehead. GANESH DIABLE SKIN TONIC.00) which cures deep lines between brows. owned and patented by Mrs. These Imported Appliances. restores lined.00. $5.50. as they reach the CAUSE of all blemishes and re-establish by natural means a healthy complexion. ADAIR'S GANESH TOILET PREPARATIONS AND FACIAL TREATMENTS obtainable for years only at her Salons in New York. sparkling eyes and a youthful contour. Sometime we may be rudely awakened by finding. strengthens the skin. THIS PHOTO PORTRAYS THE GANESH CHIN STRAP ($5.00. PARIS Cambo Cambon MIPP" ll*\_I-.00.00. 75c. Rue Chauvain REGISTERED TRADE MARK Page 59 . London. $1. are the antithesis of "make-up". closes pores and alleviates skin flabbiness and puffiness under the eyes. withered skins to velvety SUPERFLUOUS HAIR TREATMENT HYGIENIC smoothness. fills lows and removes wrinkles. which with maturer years will surely become a hard line between it and our original chin. ph one G reeley 1 3475 Bond New St. Electrolysis is almost painless. which removes double chin and and the restores GANESH FOREHEAD STRAP ($4.50. dry skins. $5. pendulous — MRS.unhealthy a state of neglect that makes the lines wrought by worries. $2. can be obtained nowhere else in the world. discolored eyes to proper smoothness and fulness. on looking sideways into our hand glass. — MAIL ORDERS FILLED for all preparations and appliances on receipt of cheque.00.

exposed to heat and cold. Toledo. or any other cause. yellow or blood-shot eyes are marvelously efficacious.m. Mrs.. hanging on either side of the chin. 0. from illness. double chin and restoring a youthful contour. originators." which you may have for the asking by mail or in person at the parlors of Mrs.OH ^ > 1VIY FOOT . sole • Ellsworth. altogether altering the shape of the face and adding years to our age. taught.. hollows are formed in cheeks and temples. and loses its beauty of coloring. but nothing has ever met with anything like the instant and entire success of the wonderful. Call owners of Ellsworth System. which are so clearly and thoroughly explained in the interesting and instructive book. Stone Prop. R. Your skin is not a dead thing to be left alone it is a sensative part of you. Ellsworth All Facial of College branches beauty science V. and Mine. teachers and the DeLong's Cucumber and Almond Massage Cream Used and recommended by Cleveland's best people. 0. Beckman Bldg. removing lines. it restores tone to the flabby muscles. In youth the soft. DeLONG SKALLA Dermatologist and Chiropodist Page 60 . in 2462 -J bags. it needs skillful. Makes skin soft and velvety. of treating tired. of eliminating deep frown lines. Cleveland. raises and gives back the youthful shape and appearance to the face.KJ y- ' _• Creme de Luxe a delightful preparation to use in Does not wear place of powder. effective treatment called the Ganesh Strapping Muscle Treatment.m. Huron Bldg. and the skin falls into lines and furrows. Stone's Shoe Store Send 12 cents sale all for sample. MAUD 716 Permanent Bldg. and filling out hollows. Our everyare graduates where. Adair's methods of reducing superfluous flesh. 1V1<i to 6 p. MRS. FULTON Manicuring and Chiropody Room 604 Standard Bldg.. be one of them and Let Me Give You a Sample lar ELLSWORTH COLLEGE 514 Permanent Bldg. Y. off. Creme de Luxe 505 Hours S a. rounded contour is maintained in all its attractiveness by the support afforded by the fat beneath it to the skin that lies smoothly over it like unwrinkled satin. to which so many women owe their rejuvenated appearance. But when. absorption of some of this fat takes place. scientific and constant care. is All foot troublespermanently relieved by scientific corrections under supervision of a surgeon. Personal instructions by D. No woman need lose the shape of her features nor the grace of her figure if she practices the Ganesh Exercises and Treatment. "How to Retain and Restore Youthful Beauty of Face and Form. this even support of the muscles and skin is withdrawn. adverse climates. Dr. N. New York. Cleveland Recommended by N. 0. Buffalo. There have been many treatments for the difficulties and for the cure of double chins. For stores. 6U0 Madison Ave. Adair at 21 West 38th them — St. 323 Euclid Ave. for into place.

30— Scarf. 8 — Brassieres. 17 — Negligee Gowns. 22— Millinery. Standard Polish for 35 years. 26 Monarch Polish Not will fix it 29—Veils. 23 — Hair Dress. & CO. Added too to these are the numberless trifles to tains a varnish dries instantly. Page 61 . must be considered case an incidental cost in you to are planning all on just so much at A few drops on your dustcloth does the work. hardwood finish and hard- Polishes and wood floors. —Sanitary Skirt Protector. 16— House Gowns. Below we give a list which will help you in planning and serve to remind you of the essentials of every woman's complete wardrobe. 7 — Drawers. 10— Petticoats. — Corset Covers. 0. —Furs. Cleveland. Often one does not know when to begin. — Chemises. accessories. Ties. — Evening Gowns.THE WARDROBE. 25 — Collars. — Night Gowns. but in all of which restores the original brilliancy and lustre to furniture. when the subject of renewing their wardrobe presents itself. 24— Handkerchiefs. — Union Suits. 20— Housekeeping Gowns. Mamma" 4 5 11 14 19— Bath Robe. 1 2 3 "Never Mind. especially if one is preparing their clothes in advance for the season or perhaps arranging for a trip or a visit or for some occasion where a rather complete outfit is needed. 21 — Aprons. 9 — Corsets. 27 — Coats. and least 10 per cent of your entire appropriation for incidental be reserved expend- BAIRD BROS. 18— Kimona. —Hosiery. Belts. 15 — Dinner Gowns. 6— Sanitary Belt. — numerous mention. Conno acid or injurious ingredients. 12— Shoes. pianos. Large size bottle 25c at your dealers' money should itures supply your needs. 28—Jewelry. 13 — Traveling or Street Gowns.

Webbing at Front and Back Wm. that the choice and judgement of the most experienced corsetiere should be consulted. like many other corsets do. gown will (C) SANITARY BELTS. for unless your corset fits your individual figure. your article in — not fit perfectly. in fact the foundation of your entire appearance to say nothing of your health and comfort lies in the well fitting corset. So much depends upon this one point. lungs. & N. Ladies Improved Sanitary Belt and we have found no better on the market. inclusive. Dept. your entire wardrobe that should be given more There is no the grace of your careful attention than your corsets. E. At All Dealers "W. B. there are satisfactory. Wright & Sons Co.&N. you are unable to procure it from your dealer. for the fit of your gown carriage. to 48 ins. If sizes 22 inches to 48 inches inclusive. Sizes of Belts are actual waist measure. instead of pressing it down. send us his name and 25c for sample belt. Order large enough to drop well down over hips. POSTPAID. New York City Page 62 . as it does not constrict the waist and is designed and cut on the idea of supporting the abdomen. and that is a are most unwill unless properly constructed not stay clasped or will not hold the napkins in place. the same as with any ordinary corset. it allows entire freedom and full expansion to the chest. N. that There is one small as article no woman should be they without but they either belt Sanitary Belt. heart In other words it will allow one to dress according to the and stomach. but without the torture. neither will the most expensive.. but a well made can not only be worn with comfort but can be easily adjusted and will prove secure. of fastening and your outfit not complete without a belt of this have carefully examined the W. — We A Standard Pattern with our improved "Never-Slip Clasp" ( Patent Applied For ) Requires No Safety Pin Easily Adjusted in sizes Absolutely Secure Made 22 ins. are but few more ruinous habits than the use of safety pins and is There improvised methods character. latest styles. F Manufacturers For Comfort 40 Lispenard St.(A) CORSETS. We at all times recommend the Berthe May "Hygie" corset as we find its hygienic and physical advantages cannot be disputed. many makeshifts on they are the market. carefully made garment look its best. and while supporting the bust." High Grade Elastic Ladies' Improved Sanitary Side.

Call and let us demonstrate this article to you. $1. Always recogour United States.00 each qualities. and press it and always have it in perfect condition. Page 63 . for one is never safe at certain times to wear their gowns and dainty underwear. O. For misses and business ladies in mode summer of ladies' attire or evening dress. but have never before been able to secure in an ideal form.00 and $2. nmde of a high grade white rubber muslin.s that it cannot be ex elled for com ort. and theatrical The excellent material used guarantees its wearing is made in medium large size selling at Price 50c. 117 purchasing. The Ama Sanitary Skirt Protector has so many c salient featur. tourists. 22nd. sanitary skirt protector a necessity to A AMA PSmmfW^ An article every is *^&™ woman will of welcome market THERE now on the the needa ready-to-wear which you wardrobe acce:sory. is every woman's wardrobe. have doubtless often realized. nize trademark before A1VIA CO. We recommend the skirt protector as one that will give entire satisfaction. 1908 This garment and This article is fully protected Sanitary Skirt protector will be mailed to any address in the receipt of price the Upon Ama by patent.(C) SKIRT PROTECTORS. THE AMA Sanitary Skirt Protector Patented Sept. fit and durability. women. nurss people it is almost indispensable. made with lace net yoke affording perfect ventilation and can be readily laundered. as flexible as fine linen. CLARENCE BUILDING CLEVELAND. less Beware of worthimitations. It is absolutely waterproof. odorless. If you get a good one you can wash unless a sure protection is afforded. The Ama Sanitary Skirt Protector is an article especially desirable for the present dress.

" take double hold without undue pressure. when wearing a waist that is separate from the skirt. chemise. Metal parts cannot rust. great improvement over old style belts. should wear a waist supporter in order that a good about the waist can always be relied upon. elastic sides. with so much pleasure at one's leisure time if handy with the needle. sent postpaid. The night gown. but the majority of women Waist Cannot Be Displaced pyramid "Units" grip and keep waist from riding up. Price 15 Cents at Department Stores AGENTS WANTED DAVID BASCH. feathers and flowers. corset covers and drawers should be of dainty muslin or fine linen. style and setting of one's face and features. the street or traveling should be selected of one of the soft plain shapes with simple trimming. Self-acting buckle stays put. refinement and a respect for the shape. New York Page 64 . Every careful dresser. gown as the waist There is nothing that ruins the entire appearance of a out of place above the belt line or perhaps showing a dividing line between the skirt band and the waist line. off into the their eye as to color (E) SHIRT WAIST SUPPORTERS. S. Little rubber The "LOOP-HOLD" Shirtwaist BELT corrects a common fault in dress. held in by patented " loop. at back.. 15 E. No sharp points to hurt fingers. 17th St. 1/ not at dealers. skirt supporter on the market than is shown below. Price 15 Cents. Even though the edging and insertion be of fine lace or embroidery it will greatly add to the beauty of the garment to have at least a small floral design of hand work. practical. but great care should be used that the selection be one that exhibits taste. but for church and theatre wear one A may branch more elaborate and trimmed effects and can satisfy and decoration of ribbons.. Simple. both French and Domestic. Dept. Many make these garments entirely by hand. hat for business. and if possible hand embroidered in any of the beautiful designs which can so easily be procured and done. effect There is no better (F) LINGERIE. graceiul. CORNER SUPERIOR AND 105TH THE WARNER HAT SHOPPE considers it possible for every woman to have an Individual Style A Gift all Shop and Tea Room can be found Novelties in Art and Needle Work (D) MILLINERY. on receipt of price. Pat'ee &Mfr.ARBORj TEA SHOP Earner flat ^oppe where 6541 Euclid Avenue Exclusive Models in Dress and Tailored Hats.

be a cloth a rain-proof fabric of "Cravenette" proof is a process which The process permeates every fibre renders a cloth or garment water-proof. rendering the cloth permanently rain-proof, and rain will then of the yarns, You can have your coat, suit, wrap, or neither wet nor spot the garment. motoring garments made from the Priestley Cravenette Cloths, and you will If you are obliged to be out in all kinds of find your needs perfectly met. weather, rain or shine, you should by all means have a "Cravenette" rain-coat. We specify "Cravenette," because a genuine Cravenette-proof coat contains no rubber, is porous to air, yet rain-proof and has not the disagreeable odor common to most raincoats, and too, there is not the stiffness of the material, which renders many of the rain coats so undesirable and unattractive. The Cravenette-proof process leaves the cloth just as supple as before and every The main point to bear in fibre of the yarns is made thoroughly rain-proof. mind is to get a rain-coat that is strictly hygienic, keeping the dampness out without preventing ventilation. However, if you are only out in an occasional sprinkle or shower, a rain-coat is unnecessary, but you should have a street

(G) RAINCOATS AND people imagine Cravenette some sort but such is not the case.



or business or traveling suit



any of the Priestley cloths of serviceable

and wearable mohair suitings, serge, chevoit, whipcord, etta, which you can get "Cravenette" proof.




to Tell

This circular

registered trademark

Silk y^^y^pti^^fiyci^ Labe


stamped on the inside and a sewed at the collar or elsewhere.

None Genuine Without Them
The )££L~,.

applied to many kinds of cloth suitable for outer garchildren's men's, women's and ments in light, medium and heavy weights for seasons of the year, and are for wear in rain or shine.

" Rain Will Neither

Wet Nor Spot Them."

They con t ain no Rubber, have no

disagreeable odor; will not overheat or cause perspiration.

For sale by leading dealers in Men's, Women's and Children's Clothing.

t^Q^/ft2^t§#., Lt4
Bradford, England

Hoboken, New Jersey

postal to the

Bradford, England

New York

office of

B. Priestley


Co., 100 Fifth Avenue, will bring interesting booklet.



is all

right in


place, but



annoyance, and more than that, when it gets on goods that you are anxious to keep clean. The oil cup on the White Rotary prevents all trouble of the kind. It's a trifle, but

by attention to the little things that make the White Rotary the very best machine you can buy. Our terms will surprise you by their
it is


White Sewing Machine Go.
426 Prospect Ave.


Lesson 78.— CORSET







nainsook, muslin, sheer lawn, linen, or any thin fine material.
tucks (Lesson 54). Join seams with French seam (Lesson 47).


Hem Hem


peplem and


Gather at waist line son 64). Finish neck and armholes with embroidery scallops (Lesson 22), or face on right side with very fine embroidery. See Lesson 53.) Embroider any desired design (Lessons 19-25 inclusive). Make eyelets and run in ribbon to hold in fullness (Lesson 25). Close with small buttons and buttonholes (Lessons 29-30).

(Lesson 65). and make band of goods or of beading for belt (Les-



Cut out (Lesson


Join with either plain or French seams.

(See Lessons 41 and 47.)

Face both sides of opening (Lesson Face around top for belt (Lesson
Put on




Make buttonholes (Lesson 27). Sew on buttons (Lesson 30).

Page 66

have not the time to put so much personal labor on their wardrobe, but the character of a woman is more easily discerned by the daintiness, prettiness and completeness of her lingerie, than by the beauty or elaborateness of her best gowns.
In France, a bride has never less than 12 pieces of each article of underwear beautifully done by hand work and exhibited with great pride to all her

buying and making these garments that your lingerie with care will last for many years to come, and you can afford to put more time and expense on them than on your outside garments that change style, color and design to suit every whim and caprice of fashion.



Lesson 80.— CHEMISE. Procure a good chemise pattern and make exactly as instructed in (Lesson 79), on the making of night gowns.
Lesson 81.— NIGHT GOWN. Cut out (Lesson 76). Join with dainty French seam (Lesson Embroider neck and edge of sleeves (Lesson 22), or fact on the right side with any desired trimming of embroidery or lace fine (Lesson 53). Embroider desired design. (See Lessons 19 to 25 inclusive).


Make eyelets (Lesson 25) neck, and draw about through ribbon to adjust




Lesson 82.— COMBINATION UNDERGARMENTS. Cut out (Lesson 76). Fit carefully (Lesson 77). Join all seams with French seams (Lesson 47). Set in yoke (Lesson 65). Put on beading and edging (Lesson 57). Sew on ruffle (Lesson 56). If for open drawers face both sides of opening (Lesson 53). Close with small buttons and buttonholes (Lesson


Page 67

Page 68 . soft flannels or in fact almost any pretty Have your negligee gowns as attractive as your skill fabric may be used. for it is the dainty feminine expression of lingerie and negligee garments that expresses the refined womanly tastes and will prove of pleasure to you so long as they last. East 135 1738 East 55th Street Cut out (Lesson 76). Face upper edge of the garment (see Lesson 53). business and traveling gowns. Face top (Lesson 53). QBE Lesson 84. The material can be of large figured silk. The slit should be carefully worked with the button hole stitch (Lesson 24).Lesson 83. and where the fullness commences make a slit on each side and insert a tape. GUI Chapel in Connection Jay P. challie. house and evening gowns. drawing it through the slit on the opposite side. Make buttonholes (Lesson 29). Have plenty of white skirts plain or elaborate to match your other lingerie of your outfit. lawns. Join ruffle (Lesson 56). dimities.— SKIRTS AND UNDERWEAR WITHOUT PLACKET. Join seams (Lesson 41). Stitch the facing down securely. silk. Parrish Funeral Director Bell Phone. and means will permit. Sew on buttons (Lesson 30). Hem (Lesson 48). DRESSING SACQUES AND KIMONAS.— PETTICOATS. but have them made the proper length to wear with your For your sireet. heatherbloom or even a good quality of sateen is preferable. fleece lined goods.


not go to the



Kimonas and Art Laces"
Call At
before buying ?

and Save

150 The Arcade
See Our Beautiful Designs and Get Our Low Prices

Lesson 85.— DRESSING
Cut out (Lesson


Lay Sew

pleat in back.



bottom (Lesson

Gather on


Face collar (Lesson

elbow and shirr around

waist (Lesson 55), and finish with dainty
of bright ribbon at the waist.



Lesson 86.— KIM ON A.

Cut out (Lesson




seams on machine.


bottom of garment (Lesson

Make yoke and attach (Lesson 65). Make sleeves and put in (Lesson



Face edges and sleeves (Lesson



facing should be of satin or



ing shade of the same or a lighter material.

-page 4-

overlook the


scientific drugless treatment


Page 69

Lesson 87.—APRONS.

Aprons are the simplest of all garments to make, No. 3857 is especially easy to make. Cut out goods (Lesson 76). Face all edges (Lesson 53). Make pocket (Lesson 73)." Make one buttonhole and sew on button (Lessons 29-30).

No. 3180 requires a little more time and effort. Cut out (Lesson 76). If embroidery for ruffle, bib and pockets is not used hem ruffle (Lesson 48). Face bib and pockets (Lesson

Put on ruffle (Lesson 56). Put on pockets (Lesson 73). Gather and join bib to skirt of

Put on band (Lesson 64).


Is This the

Condition of

Your Nerves?

Is that the condition of your nerves? If so, your system is just like the violin shown above; utterly unable to perform the work for which it was intended. Until there is an improvement in these conditions, there is no chance for harmonious action between the various organs of the body. The office of the nervous system is to control and direct the vital forces. If the nerves are not strong, healthy and in proper tone they cannot do this work any more than can the violin give forth sweet and melodious music when "all unstrung."

You Do Not Need



a Nerve STIMULANT, But a NERVE Food. a Nerve Food and Strength Builder.

At the same prepared especially to build up and strengthen the nervous system. time it purifies the blood and regulates the circulation, so that the nerve centers may distribute the vital forces to the organs in need. If you'are only slightly nervous, you ought to take ZOA-PHORA at once and thus thwart the onward march of the disease. If your nerves are already in such a shattered condition that they are threatened with nervous prostration, ZOA-PHORA will give you relief and strengthen your nervous system.

Read Page

95 for the Special



Page 70

Lesson 88.— LINGERIE WAIST. Choose your pattern and
follow the instructions of






making by

selecting the

desired design and effect and mak-

ing according to
Sleeves, Lesson 69 or 70.
Collars, Lessons 66, 67 and 68. Yoke, Lesson 65. Trimmings and Finish, Lessons 54, 57, 58 and 62. If a Lining is desired make according to Lessons 76 and 77.


Lesson 89.— HOUSE KEEPING GOWNS. Your house keeping gowns should be of percale or gingham or some wash goods so that at all times you can be immaculately clean. Have them made plain and simple so they can be easily gotten into and also have your aprons large, and of a material that washes neatly. Use instructions (Lesson 76), taking steps according to numbers; X-l, X-5, X-7, X-8, X-9, X-15. Then put on facing about sleeves, neck and down front and belt (Lesson 53). Now hem skirt (Lesson 48). Sew on buttons and make buttonholes (Lessons


Easy to Pay the Rosenblum Way"

For Man,
or Child



pays the bill

We Make Good Unsatisfactory Purchases We Never Misrepresent

M. Rosenblum

Credit Clothing Co.

2014 Ontario St. Cor.^hamplain
Mr. Rosenblum Himself



1 Cut (Lesson 76). Upstairs Lesson 90. —We will give directions for making gown 4533 as contains nearly every element and requires the explanation of nearly all points of dressmaking. Hundreds of are added to our already large patronage every is There We We is a Reason — High Rent District. Our operating expenses are low. — Gather at waist 5 7 line in and attach a belt or stitch bias band to hold gathers secure. and stitch on both sides of pleat. 6—Make sleeves and attach (Lesson 70). front and back. do not handle any premiums nor give trading stamps (the customer. pays for both at all stores where they give them). All Goods Sold on $1. — GOWNS. etc. Coats. & Pacific Tea Company's Store 2165 Ontario Street. Skhts. Waists. 4 Form box pleat in right front. Suits. Shoes. By following these instructions carefully and faithfully. 3 Fit and make any necessary alterations (Lesson 77). growing by leaps and bounds.There Must Be a Reason Why our business new customers month. of course. 2 Join with plain seams (Lesson 41). Jewelry.00 a Week Payments Complete furnishers — Hats. you cannot fail to develop your Page 72 . — — — — — — Hem the underside of the front closing. — — Make buttonholes and sew on buttons (Lesson 29-30). 8 Make collar (Lesson 66).—A shirt waist is something it seems no one has too many of they are so useful and so necessary for so many occasions and can be constructed of such a variety of fabrics and in such a wide range of styles. We do not have any collectors. Dresses. turning to the specific lesson as indicated.— SHIRT WAIST. The quality of our merchandise is the best and our guarantee of absolute satisare not in the faction is given with every sale. 9 Lesson it 91. and attach or put on neck band (Lesson 64). and leave collar loose. CLEVELAND CREDIT CLOTHING Over Atlantic CO.

Ptawi 3fttBtrufitum .

find that she considers "home" to be the city. believe that the real American woman does not consider "home" to be just the house in which she lives. For To be Dressed Styles in the Latest Fashion Select Your from the Season's Number The PICTORIAL REVIEW FASHION BOOK For sale by The May Costs only 5c When Purchased with a 15c pattern For sale by Co. In short. materia! Any ornamentation suitable to the occasion to be worn may be used. Charming Lingerie Frocks Smart Street Toilettes Afternoon Dresses in Foulards and Taffetas New and Fascinating Evening Gowns An Alluring Assortment of Lace Blouses in the New Casaque and Peplum Styles The PICTORIAL REVIEW is not wholly a fashion magazine although it carries more and better styles than any fashion magazine published. New York London Headquarters: Louis Berlin San Francisco Vienna St. departments on cooking. 222-224-226 W. and in harmony with the an evening gown the upper portion of both lining and material of the waist can be cut away. etc. plain. making as low or as high cut gown as desired... in the politics which make taxes high and her rent accordingly higher.16 17 — Face bottom of skirt (Lesson —Sew on hooks and eyes (Lesson 53). With these departments before you a magazine devoted wholly to housekeeping is a needless extravagance. The fiction stories in PICTORIAL RE- VIEW The are equal to the very best you can get anywhere. state and nation in which she lives. 39th NEW YORK Page 74 . She is looking for more information constantly and PICTORIAL furnishes that knowledge. marketing. They make the so-called "fiction-magazine" unnecessary. REVIEW The Pictorial Chicago Paris Review Company St. She is very properly interested in the schools which her children shall attend. tasty dishes described in PICTORIAL REVIEW'S COOKING DEPARTMENT. PICTORIAL REVIEW is "The Magazine for Women. The up-to-date American housewife is a thinking woman. The household departments in PICTORIAL REVIEW. 59). and in many other subjects which are of vital importance to her daily living. its ideas will save much more than the cost of the magazine for a year. It is Its suggestions. are written by experts and their information is practical and daily useful. special articles in PICTORIAL are on subjects of interest to women. a necessity in every home." It covers every range of woman's activity completely. housekeeping. in life insurance which cares for her REVIEW We We when the bread-winner is suddenly taken away. You had better subscribe now and find out about our magazine and our patterns. If you wish to please your husband's palate just give him some of the good. The May Co. home decoration.

'Make exactly according to Lesson 91. and a number of cheap inappropriate useless garments purchased when one good garment of a more suitable nature would have been a better investment. or as magnificent as her station in life demands.Lesson 92. Select carefully your materials with a view of perfect keeping with social demands and associates. when the same amount of money expended in two or three simple evening frocks would have constantly served to the pleasure and needs. and they should be as simple. For making see Lesson 91. for a season 30. Main . and the panel is used instead of the — GOWN — all-over flounce. Lesson 93. Every wardrobe should hold as many evening gowns as the individual will have need of. elegance or elaborateness. yet sometimes the other extreme is met. . as often too elegant evening gowns lie your unused and unenjoyed. except the breteile is crossed in the front instead of the back. Phones 4598 Central 1379-W .—EVENING AND DINNER GOWNS. but for younger women prettiness and daintiness and attractiveness should be the aim rather than richness.

Boarding Home Transient Accommodations Employment Bureau Travelers' Aid .

Made' ' Coat Front Foundation By examining the drawing alongside which shows the inside view of the Grean Tailor-Made Coat Front Foundation. for a tailormade coat or jacket. themself. If your dealer cannot supply you write us immediately. you will notice that it is It is not only a foundation over a complete coat front. but a tailored made coat front. which the cloth is placed. a wide button hole stay runs the whole length of the coat. must have more in it than an ordinary piece of canvas without preliminary preparations of careful sponging and shrinking. The foundation for the front of your coat or jacket is very important. are protected with a white linen stay. and at the top. but you can detect cheap worthless coat front foundations by their stiffness. gether and some tailors use fronts of canvas prepared separately to fit the outside. to will make find a Those who are unable good tailor made front Grean's Tailor Made Coat for Front Foundations to be almost a necessity. which is usually nothing but glue. it will be a good lesson and example to study Grean ready made and tailor- made make coat front foundation. These tailor-made coat front foundations are made in different weights and lengths. all heavy winter selves. lightweight silk or velvet Grean suits and fur garments.Lesson 96. There are several methods of making jackets and coats. but it is also part of a pattern by which one can be safely guided. 327-329 E. You requirements. 50c to $1.. will find coat. New York Page 77 . in and renders it unfit to be used your garment. The present styles demand soft coat fronts. which can be purchased for much less than one can Accept no imitations or substitutes. They are made of the best material appropriate for this purpose and are thoroughly sponged and shrunk. They in are a made variety upsuit to-date styles to different coats.. but the difference Some tailors sew cloth and canvas tolies chiefly in preparing the fronts. 34th St. "Tailor. but well tailored and firm enough to support and retain shape permanently. They are all very soft and pliable. made of white French felt and edges of the best herringbone hair-cloth used for center stiffening. them in medium weight variety to suit tailor suit. you will find a Grean patented Shoulder form.— CLOAKS AND SUIT JACKETS. from the lightest silks to the heaviest automobile garments. from the short Eton coat to a 32 inch length coat so much worn now.00 GREAN SHOULDER FORM & PAD CO. A good sized arm-pad surrounding. in the shoulder. Tailor-Made Coat Fronts Foundations are distinguished by their beautiful shaping and tailoring and every season the shapes change according to the prevailing To those who have found difficulty in making coat fronts for themfashions.

35 to 50c 50c lost its original shape. beautifully shaped and used in either short coats or long coats where only bust reinforcing is necessary and If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealer's. IS — Again press the entire garment. above directions you will be able to work out a well fitting. — 8 Baste goods over lining and try on and fit perfectly (Lesson 77). 1 1 5). all 77). 3). and press seams open.no more particular work in dressmaking than the proper tailoring of a jacket or coat and you should never attempt to make one of these garments in a hurry. We will supply you direct or through a reliable used in garments where a coat front of canvas has been already used but has is extensively altering dealer and send you a catalogue of other dressmaking helps. and press (Lesson 75). 2 5). press and sew turning in the lining to 13 — Make collar and attach (Lesson 67). 5 Short Coat-Fronts Short Coat Front. —Make buttons and buttonholes (Lessons 29 and 30). 14 — Make sleeves (Lesson 72). NEW YORK — Baste ready in these bust forms of hair cloth or soft canvas. in. You can purchase made at any of our advertisers carrying Grean dressmaking supplies. 327-329 East 34th St. nicely finished garment and the saving of doing this work yourself will allow you to put extra money into a better grade of material than otherwise you could choose or you can practically buy the goods for another suit. 9 When an exact fit has been obtained detach from lining. made of Hair-Cloth. in any style or manner desired.. GREAN SHOULDER FORM & PAD 6 CO. 16—The trimmings can then be sewed on. There is 4 — Lay on goods (Lesson 76— to — Cut out lining (Lesson 76— 3 — Baste up lining seams (Lesson — Fit and make necessary alterations (Lesson —'Cut outside material (Lesson 76—6-11). 10 11 — — — Make and put pocket — Put in lining right side in 5). sew up seams in desired manner (Lesson 41). strict attention to the By paying Page 78 . write us. out and attach with very small slant stitches (Lesson 12 cover the seam. (Lesson 73). for much of the beauty of the coat or cloak depends upon this part. No work or stitches should be left visible on the lining. 7 Join seams of lining.

MICHIGAN. L able and effective.. Cones are a female suppository. CHAPTER XIII. 50 CENTS. The Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones have in the past years permanently relieved thousands upon thousands of women and the price of a month's treatment for 50 cents makes them within the reach of all. Read on the last page of this book your druggist' special offer to you of a free ten days' treatment of these Cones. The herself outfit an expectant mother prepares for entirely depends upon what her duties all require of her during this period. ^6. has been found. but the comfort of the individual to a large extent depends upon these two things. They allay Inflammation and heal the irri71. Beware of dangerous imitations that contain mineral and poisons and which have'no established fifty reputation. P^t^£L. The Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing KALAMAZOO. safe. Page 79 . but in in- stances the clothing must be loose and comfortable and both the dress and underwear should be Special attento supported tion from the shoulders. a tated parts. as not only the appearance. Proprietors. ZOA-PHORA CO. reliPRICE.ZOA-PHORA Antiseptic Vitalizing CONES Are for local treatment and are antiseptic in their action on Diseased Tis- sue and Unhealthy Conditions. MATERNITY OUTFIT. They contain Nerve Tonics ANTISEPTIC which are absorbed into the Blood and VITALIZING COHES Give Vitality to the Whole System. Ten days' treatment will convince you that no matter how serious your condition a positive relief Sample free upon request. must be given the matter of corsets and the lining of the gowns.

The Lucine corset can be made gradually larger when wanted. as her own health and that of her child would be materially injured by such a course.. and to attend to her customary vocation during the whole term of her pregnancy. in a normal condition. New York (98)— MATERNITY CORSETS. Physicians use it in their own families aud prescribe it to their patients. and allows the mother to dress as usual. the same as an ordinary corset. sent under plain envelope. enables women to dress as usual. through a system of inside plaits of the material. thanks to its exclusive and It procures an absolute simple system of gradual enlargement. 10 E. BERTHE MAY.00 Write for free booklet No. The most celebrated maternity corset that has come to our notice is the Berthe May "Lucine" corset. as well as during the maternity period. together with photographic reproductions and full information.BERTHE MAY'S Maternity Corset The only corset of this kind made for its own purpose. expectant mother should go without a corset. No — Page 80 . to preserve a normal appearance. A maternity corset must combine as an abdominal support and a corset in fact it must be a protection to the abdominal walls against too great relaxation and yet must serve to give grace to the figure and to make it possible for her to go about and be active during the entire period. abdominal support at all times. Mfr. thus affording the comfort and safety so necessary in a weakened condition of the abdomen. on account of the healthy support which it gives both the abdomen and to the back. as it can be worn at any time. 15 Which will b. It is manufactured to be an absolute safeguard against all accidents for the mother as well as for the child. to be used whenever needed. which can be opened successively when more room is needed..00 to $18. Prices from $5. to deport herself with the greatest comfort. to preserve a normal appearance and to attend to their every -day vocations. 46th St. and upon examination and investigation we find that the "Lucine" corset is so constructed that it can be worn as early as wanted. and yet with its own particular advantages. Orders by mail filled with absolute satisfaction because of my perfect yet simple measurement system. but she should never wear the ordinary style and cut. Every woman should have this corset in her wardrobe. and it can be reduced to a normal size and worn as long as desired after the child is born.

The instructions found in Lesson 91. Make lacing. Proprietors. and an extenskirt making. MICHIGAN. necessary. and the dart seams either side from the shoulder faced back (Lesson S3). 3916. A IT /*phOHA (Trade Mark. and a very pliable. for making. make this gown perfectly. - Zoa-Phora Ten minutes of this Pile Remedy PILE ZOA-PHORA KALAMAZOO. 50 CENTS. Ohio full line of druggists who handle the Zoa-Phora Remedies Page 81 . is arms where there but little Allowance must be made that enough goods left at the top of the skirt to extend the front and sides will as the figure demands in order that the skirt hang evenly all way around. Instead of making starting in the usual way the lining has dart seams from the shoulder and the center of the neck. reliable and satisfactory treatment. maternity skirt is cut after a special maternity skirt pattern. REMEDY— known See page 96 for ZOA-PHORA REMEDIES COMPANY. how serious your case you will find the ZOA-PHORA PILE the one safe. list of of time and 50 cents for a full month's treatment well-known meritorious effective Remedy. See instructions (Lesson 76). and extending to the bottom of the waist lining.. PRICE. will forever convince you that to suffer with this disease is positively unGo to your Pull directions in each package. The opening down is the front shoulder is hemmed back. Lesson 100. druggist today ana procure a month's treatment before your No matter disease becomes more deep seated and chronic. Sample sent FREE upon request. tion at the top for lengthening front and sides. but it is seamed and faced and finished the same as given in the regular lesson on It should have a good sized pleat at each seam. and lace down with linen or elastic The band from which rather loosely fitted is the front of the skirt from exactly under the necessity to enlarge. See cut of lining at top of Fig.— MATERNITY GOWN. except the lining is finished altogether differently. easy stretching elastic band is used for the belt.— MATERNITY SKIRT.Lesson 99. falls is eyelets (Lesson 25) on both sides of all three openings. Cleveland's best Toledo.) QA~rt X REMEDY CO. Accept no substitute.

10 — Party dress. To the girl after her who is away from home wardrobe we have made out a most useful in list or the one without a mother to look of necessary articles and you will find the list planning your wardrobe. 9 — Church dress. while you are growing you can seriously injure yourself and your health.CHAPTER IV. by wearing a badly fitted corset. 12— Hair ornaments. 8— School dress. narcotics or other dangerous or harmful drugs. for every girl entering womanhood. 6 7 — Petticoats. especially~compounded to purify and the blood. Pengelly's pri- 13— Millinery. 16 17 Read our Special Offer Page 96 of this Book. — House gown. together with complete instructions for the making of them and if you are a wise girl you will begin with the first lesson of this book and master every point of plain and fancy needlework for it is one of the most refined acquirements possible for a gentlewoman to attain. 21 — Furs. 1 vate prescription for women. — Bath robes. 18— Corset waists. nervous. opiates. as it will give you all the beautiful curves and angles without the discomfort and danger of the modern corset. 19 — Sweater. 11 —White petticoats. — Light warm woolen 2— Under vests. — Hosiery. Get your shoes of sensible style and thickness and large enough to be comfortable regardless of the season or fashion. suits. — Combination corset 1 combination 3 covers and -WOMAN'S FRIEND FOR drawers. purely a vegetable compound no alcohol. belts and acces- sories. We would recommend the Berthe May "Hebe" Corset. 4 5 Growing Girls For over 50 years Zoa-Phora has proven an invaluable remedy to meet the needs of weak. enrich 4— Handkerchief s. 20— Cloak. build up the tissues^strengthen the nerves and put the entire constitution in harZoa-Phora is monious condition. All of your garments should be simple and Page 82 . sickly girls and women. You will find on the following pages suggestions of appropriate styles for your gowns. for during the pliable age. — — Night gowns. Special attention should be paid to your corsets. 15 —Collars and ties. THE SCHOOL GIRL'S WARDROBE. Zoa-Phora is Dr. — Shoes. Do not make the mistake of going without sufficient underwear and of a quality to give you sufficient warmth and have all of your lingerie plain and dainty.

whose natural charms are beginning to wane.girlish. 32nd Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister Choral Classes Bible Classes Page 83 . made exactly on the same principle as a lady's dress. GIRL'S DRESSES. OHIO West Side Branch Franklin and W. and if no lining X2— X6. — GIRLS SCHOOL shirt waist DRESS. edge. gorgeous effects suitable for the stage or at best for older women. Follow instructions for making as found in LesGirl's dresses are The son style 91. sensible. Lesson 102. as nothing is more unattractive than rich elegant garments worn by a sweet faced girl. omit- hemming.— ting GOWN if 3911. and without collar Lesson 101. dainty garments will win for you a thousand fold more admiration than magnificent. whose youth and its natural qualities need no artificial adornment. CLEVELAND. Remember immaculate. Follow instructions for (Lesson 89). the material if embroidery omit omit Xll. party and summer dresses. shown is one widely approved of and very popular for graduating. Piano and Apply to the Junior and Industrial Mandolin Lessons Orchestra Practice Young Women's Christian ^Association Clubs Prospect Avenue and East 18th Membership Parties St. Collar (Lesson 63).— Make has exactly according to Lesson 91. Skirt (Lesson 95).

more labor and is care and expense than usually figured on. plain (Lesson 41). At Druggists. but in the winter either underwear heavy enough to fully protect the child from the cold must be provided or woolen dresses of serge. O. ginghams. M'f 'rs. 56). percales. novelty goods or any warm material must be worn. seams. bot.00. severe Coughs. Colds. so we do not take up space in giving this instruction. poplins. Prevents bronchial diseases. Physicians recommend it.— CHILDREN'S DRESSES.. piques. or French seams (Lesson Make Make Make ruffles and attach (Lesson (Lesson 48). Make 54). repps. collar 68). ones daintily dressed and Lickes Drug Co. and linens.CHILDREN'S CLOTHES. Hem Close (Lesson with dainty buttons and small button- holes (Lessons 29-30). Shortens and lightens the disease. Used in Cleveland Orphan Asylums 20 years. pared for Whooping Cough. Cleveland. Every mother desires to see her little this requires 12 oz. Quickly cures Croup. so that It is can be kept perfectly hardly economical to make boys clothing after they leave the "Buster Brown" period. 5 oz. Lesson 104. bot. The main goods such as point in planning children's garments in is to have them as plain and appropriate as possible. 50 cts. all tucks in goods before cutting (Lesson Cut (Lesson Close 76). Especially pre- sewing where an economical wife and mother can save to more advantage than in by doing the work herself the making of the children's clothes. In the latter instance the guimpe or sleeves it and yoke should always be of wash goods. Page 84 .. $1. There is perhaps no department of WHOOPING COUGH DUNHAM'S SPECIFIC. flannel. clean. sleeves and put in (Lesson 69). every instance possible should be of wash etc. either 47).

A child's coat is made the after the same general instead principles as gown. 47). and sew on buttons (Lesson Fasten up back with washable buttons. and make buttonholes or sew on loops of elastic cord. is edging used overcast on neatly (Lesson 57). Lesson 106. the of the collar.— CHILDREN'S WAISTS AND DRAWERS. S3). drawers (Lesson 48). Face waist armholes. band on drawers to (Lesson make buttonholes button on waist (Lesson 29).— CHILD'S COAT. bottom of (Lesson Hem If . Sew line a bias band around waist 30). is The cape joined at may be lined or unlined and the neck. Cut out (Lesson Join 76). French seams (Lesson neck. Put 64). except shoulders a of ruffles over the cape if desired may be made.Lesson 105. seam hidden by the facing 4483 Page 85 .

for they are a comfortable. three dozen diapers. and a layout containing all necessary toilet articles. Gather at knees. Cut (see Lesson 76). one veil. — Every mother should with rompers. three pinning blankets. Make sleeves (Lesson 69). three wrappers. — ROMPERS. comb and safety pins. Sew up straight seams (Lesson 41). six pair hose. sensible garment for the little one to play in. six bibs. she usually prefers doing much of the work articles The Page 86 . especially one expecting for the first time. brush. six pair bootees. tal- cum powder. INFANTS WARDROBE. little necessary to a child's wardrobe are very simple and easy to make.BELLE VERNON MILK the Best Milk Lesson provide her 109. CHAPTER VII. three petticoats petticoats (flannel). child and saves the mother much care and thought concerning his clothes. one cap. Put on collar (Lesson 68). six night slips. Make pocket (Lesson Make belt 73). (Lesson 64). so below we will give a list of absolutely nec- garments and articles together with an idea of about the number of each that the average expectant mother should have preessary Six dresses. six bands. usually a question as to just what they are to make. To it ^3800 is the prospective mother. pared: three (white). one diaper cover. and if mother has the time to spare. and how many of each article to make. infant's etc. one coat. three sacks. one kimona.

Sew on buttons (Lesson 30). and neatly hem by hand. A rubber diaper should be made for protection on occasions § when you are traveling or taking your child away from home. and should take regularly during the last month of confinement and for one or two months after birth. quick and easy delivery at birth. While Preparing for the Coming of the Little One. Diapers should be made of good cotton diaper cloth. Make buttonholes (Lesson 29). and made as daintily as possible.Lesson 110. Sew up seams (Lessons 41 and 47).— The dress is made the same as instructed (Lesson 104) child's dress except very much longer. and a rapid recovery of natural health and strength afterward. This treatment is a positive aid in maintaining a good condition of health during confinement. (see Lesson 106). Hem bottom of skirt (Lesson 48). cut square. Bibs should be of double thickness. the Mother's Health Should Be the First Consideration. CAN anything than PHORA Read the Special Offer as Given on Page 97 Ex pectant mothers can not afford to be without Woman's Friend Page 87 .— MAKING THE INFANT'S OUTFIT. but it should not be worn at all times as the ordinary waterproof diapers are not porous enough to let the air properly to the child's body. The little flannel jackets are made in one piece and the edges should be The night gown. or if lace or embroidery edging is not used you may feather stitch around the edge of the collar and down the front on either side of the buttonholes and many prefer to feather stitch the hem (see Lesson 18). Make and attach collar (Lesson 68). Make and put in sleeves (Lesson 69). gown (Lesson 104). the edges turned in and finished with an edging of lace or feather stitched. be more vitally important that the organs of maternity of the mother be in a perfect state of health and strength to undergo this trying ordeal? The expectant mother should begin to take ZOAas soon as pregnancy is known from time to time as needed according to directions. The petticoat. The coat. Sew on lace or fine embroidery edging (Lesson 57). Cut (Lesson 76). embroidered or neatly bound with pink or blue ribbon. follow instructions for making child's PRINCESS SLIP. Kimona (see Lesson 86). of Birdseye linen or Canton flannel. both flannel and the dainty white ones are made under same instructions as Lesson 105. Hem back the fronts (Lesson 48).

for a process or chemical that removes the spot from one material will set the stain in or ruin another material. You can do considerable for careful consideration mShT- ^!S>wb CLOTHES kept beautifully clean and in "crisp CUMMER'S Perfect (JAflVAS freshness" by every J^RESSING dainty housewife WITH CUMMER'S ffltCUMMEflPHODUCTSCO CltVEtAIO.0»«> ENERGINE I 'SHOE OMOINATION DRESSING" GOOD AT ALL C STORES wuwmu moms cs i ei«n. must always be given to the nature of the spot and the material.«m. CUMMER'S SHOE DRESSINGS The Proper Dressing For EVERY Shoe Ask Your Shoeman Page 88 .CLEANING. The cleaning of clothes and accessories of the dress is often a problem. M i(.

Grease Spots on any fabric. If on thin goods pour out a little alcohol in a bowl and rub out the stain. where you can depend upon your work being properly done. Then follow directions as for removing blood stains. Soak in cold water. it should then be put in very hot water. if the stain is on a washable article. dry cleaned. then wash in tepid soap suds and proceed as lor removing blood stains. silks. Ink Spots: There are many ways of removing ink spots. furs. Brass Stains. Down Town Store 532 Euclid Avenue your own cleaning at home by using Cummer's Energine. Coffee Stains:— Do not soak or put into soap suds until boiling water has been poured through the cloth until the stain is removed.THE UNIVERSAL DRY CLEANSING // it isn't CO. Blood Stains: Soak the stains in cold water over night. felts. Fruit Stains: Follow directions as for removing coffee stains. and care should be taken to select a reliable place. If the spot is still moist cover with sugar. General Offices and Laboratories \2\$ tO 1230 East 71st St. then wash in tepid soap suds and proceed as for blood stains. that must be otherwise your article may be returned to you ruined. so the main point is to alcohol that removes the have your cloth well saturated with the alcohol. then wash in sweet milk and rinse in clear tepid water. if the goods can be boiled. We give you in these pages the addresses of first class establishments. kid gloves. and Delivery Service. and rinse thoroughly in clear tepid water. "Universal Dry Cleansing" It isn't the best. Rub pure lard on stain and leave for a few hours. Grass Stains: Must be removed with alcohol. which will clean woolen goods. If the article is such that it can be boiled. Auto Call Call Us Up —Phones. feathers and almost anything cleanable. silk or cotton can most effectively be removed with Cummer's Energine full instructions for its use are found on the bottle. and then rinse in ammonia water. soak the stain in salts of lemon. and it should always be kept on hand to keep However. woolen. Cocoa Stains. rubbing until the stain disappears. laces. dip It is the a cotton cloth into the alcohol. salt or flour until you have absorbed all the ink possible. leathers. then pour boiling water through the of perfectly — — — spot until the stain has entirely disappeared. Boil from 20 to 30 minutes. or if the ink — — — — Page 89 . there are many garments your articles in good fresh condition. or if on white goods. and good laundry soap. or if on heavier goods. then rinse and wash carefully in tepid soap suds. in which has been added a mixture of equal parts of "Elwako". stain and not the rubbing. Nevertheless you will need a few suggestions for removing the spots and clothes and which you may desire to stains that are so apt to get on your try to remove yourself.

or to a pint of water add one-fourth pound of sal soda. Scalds. times Common Skin all i D rice Zjc rer oox Off D D • ALL FIRST CLASS DRUGGISTS will supply you has dried wash out the ink stains in the milk and rinse as above directed. Oil: for 24 hours. Spots: — Rub out in kerosene and wash in tepid soap suds and rinse in clear tepid water. Phone Crest234 - W ump ^^ Z/^» ^§S3S3Rgg0r Page 90 Prompt Service We Call For and Deliver 13256 Euclid Avenue and 13430 Euclid Avenue . Rough Skin. then wash gently in tepid soap in — suds and rinse in clear tepid water. Tea Stains: Vaseline — Follow directions for removing coffee stains. Catarrh and Colds in the Head. Iodine Stains can best be removed with chloroform. but as this is a very dangerous drug to work with it is usually better to send your garment to a cleaner. Perspiration until the stain is — Stains: Sponge with a weak solution of hydrochloric acid. Bruises. than to attempt to do the work yourself. or rub out the spots in equal parts of turpentine and alcohol. Insect Bites. Eruptions. — and Paint Spots: Rub with vaseline until paint is softened. Or you may soak the stain in salts of lemon. rinse in clear tepid water. Rust Stains may be removed by soaking chloric acid a diluted solution of hydro- and rinsing in clear cold water. or oxalic acid until the ink has been removed. then wash in gasoline or benzine. Blisters. soak the stain in this solution for half an hour. — Mildew: Soak in buttermilk spread on grass in sun. For Chapped or Cracked Hands. Scorch Marks can be effectively removed only by sunshine. and one ounce of chloride of lime. all Children's Sore Throat. if Wash with cold water and a pure white soap. Burns. if the material not rub wet borax over the spot and rinse in clear cold water. Boils. removed or the colors clear. Chafes and Croup. or turpentine and ammonia. Machine will wash. and then rinse in clear cold water.Zoa-Phora Balm No Family Supply is Complete Without Known Ointment---within easy reach at this Well Diseases. then wash in benzine or gasoline. Piles. Cold on the Lungs. Bell Phone 2192 / [J Cleaners for Particular People Edd y r ^*^/S-r T s**n f^k C-5 Cuy.

Phone. do not throw away the solution until goods are dry. 2336 E. where without dyeing they would be useless. so that it takes day to wear off. to see if the desired shade is obtained. appear as good as new and that at but a few cents of expense. Snow Flake Hand Laundry The Cedar Cleaning Works Cleaning. thus saving It is advisable. 90th Street Cleveland. Old and worn curtains. for instance. Princt 2906-L . They are easy and simple to use. the probable result. Dyeing Fine Lingerie and Lace Curtains Specialties and Feather Work 2420 Cedar Ave. when dyeing. before putting in the article to be dyed. if cotton or silk. 7420-R Doan 337-L Res. ALL WORK GUARANTEED Fannie Hamlet. the result will be a green. as it is The color of the impossible to dye a dark colored fabric a lighter color. If. it is always best to discharge or remove as much of the old color as possible. Many old or shabby garments can be dyed and renovated and made over and months of service gotten from them. and see the result. and do not stain the hands. When several pieces are to be dyed put in the dye bath at the same time. When dying.North 776 Cent. but keep them moving by stirring occasionally with a wooden stick. instances a few precautions in dyeing you must always follow. Do not expect to dye a dark piece of goods a light shade. the goods may be put back in the same dye bath. you can use the same dye for any vegetable nature. The best plan is to try a small piece of goods fabric first. There are in all which you are about to dye has nearly as much effect on the result as the dye you use. to put a small time and additional expense. in fact making them in many cases. Unlike the old-time easier to handle than the old-fashioned dry powder whether it be of animal or dyes. Ohio DYEING. two or three 91 . like many other dyes. and dyed a deeper shade. so that it may be taken out from time to time. rugs. Prop. changing the water when times. same shade. Page if necessary. and are much cleaner and dyes. you have a yellow dress and use a blue dye. fabric. table covers and various other articles may be dyed and brightened up. Boil from one-half to three-quarters of an hour in a bath containing soap. This can be accomplished by boiling the goods. piece of material in with the larger pieces. without removing the article itself. Peacock Dyes are put up in collapsible tubes. it becomes discolored. In taking goods from the dye bath. do not crowd the goods. they should all be otherwise a variety of shades would be the In discharging or removing old colors from material that has been previously dyed. so that in case the desired shade is not obtained.

making them much easier and cleaner to handle than the old fashioned powder dyes. Silks. owing to article is put into the bath of some of new color. Curtains. Raffia. old color come discharging when will not PEACOCK DYES For Home Dyeing THE ONE DYE FOR ALL FABRICS For dyeing Cotton. Tablecovers. Basketry.. Apple Green . etc. Chipped Straw. Peacock Dyes are put up in collapsible tubes.When removing soften the wool. By the use of Peacock Dyes in the household a great many old. may be dyed. worn and shabby Clothes. Feathers. FULL DIRECTIONS ON EACH TUBE. making them appear as good as new. no soap should be used. color from wool. as the newly dyed material the bright and uniform. etc. Linens. Rugs. Wools. Mixed Goods. as of old color is it tends to The removal very important in dyeing articles out the that have been previously dyed.

. and will not injure any fabric. and that it makes white clothes WHITE. a package of regular size. postpaid. S. Bedding. which does wonderful work. is not a Soap nor a Soap Powder. E. Ask your grocer for it also.. If you are not now using it. 0. It is a scientific Washing Compound to be used in connection with any good Laundry Soap in accordance with directions printed on each package. One 25 cent can will clean any common sized rug or carpet without rinsing or removing from the floor. ELWAKO Elwako Manufacturing Co. yet there are always numberless small things. or those ot a dainty. with full directions for using. not gray or yellow. whether they be Table Linen. sufficient for four family washings. In this present day of good laundries the hardest and most laborious part of the work can be sent away. We also manufacture CARPET CLEANER.LAUNDERING. It contains no Lye or Acid. learned by practical experience that it saves the hard labor of rubbing and dispenses with the washboard. It is invaluable ELWAKO ELWAKO IN It is YOUR LAUNDRY WORK sold by most Grocers. or perhaps some pieces which one prizes very highly and one desires to have done at home. and restores all the original brilliancy of color without injury. Cents in stamps and we will mail you. Curtains or personal apparel. that articles washed with last twice as long as when rubbed. Cleveland. get a If he does not keep it. 1120 Prospect Ave. delicate texture or color. send us Ten package from your Grocer. You must be most careful in this SETTLES THE WASH-DAY QUESTION NO LYE NO ACID WILL MAKE YOUR CLOTHES CLEAN*WHITE WITHOUT RUBBING SOLD BY GROCERS YOU SHOULD USE ELWAKO Because thousands of other women have in your weekly washing. Page 93 .

Fifth. — Sort over your clothes. the boiler with the clothes. being sure that nothing with if a color in it is put with the all-white clothes. one which will First. line. where they can get the full benefit of the air and sun. —Boil two tubs of tepid from 20 to 30 minutes and wrinse thoroughly through one or water and then through bluing water. and coarser from the finer you have a large number of pieces. — Shave in soap together one small cake of Elwako and one bar of any good laundry three pints of water and boil and stir until they are thoroughly Third. that you get on bargain counters. North 975 Central 3280-W Prospect Avenue and East 14th Street A Particular Laundry for Particular People Cleveland Ohio Page 94 . are worse than worthless. bluing and good starch and if possible have your clothes hanged out of doors. in perfect with great care.'' as it positively contains no lye. as they will turn your clothes yellow and fade and cause the colors to run. . wrung out of the cold water. and soak white pieces in cold water over night. Then always use a good laundry aid. be careful to get good saving of labor. Second. for you can wear your articles out more by rubbing them over a rough washboard than you would wear them out in a week of almost constant service.work. least being sure that the corners are well fastened. you have a good laundry soap many of the cheaper soaps. blended. We suggest the use of "Elwako. acid or substance of any' kind which will injure the most delicate fabric. for a badly laundered article is worthless to a particular or refined woman. water and roll —When —Iron dry. sprinkle with tepid is tightly and leave for at one hour. blow about and tear or become stretched out of shape. — Put fill one-half of this mixture into a washboiler containing very hot water and Fourth. and it will make your clothes clean and whte with a Further. You should first see that remove the dirt and stains and germs without the unnecessary labor of rubbing. taking precautions to always keep the garment it form or you may render unsightly by ironing out of shape.— -Starch and hang on so the articles will not Sixth. time and wear on your clothing. sort the and wash the finer first. Seventh. but over night better.

1. If you want to be cured. and you will then know to your own satisfaction and benefit just what Zoa-Phora really is. 6. write us. Zoa-Phora begins at the seat of your trouble and builds up every part of your body. asked hundreds of times daily honest Before using a treatment a sensible woman wants to know what she is using she is perfectly justified in demanding an honest and straightforward answer. Zoa-Phora is Nature's own restorative and cure. known to of drugs. Zoa-Phora contains no alcohol positively not one drop is used. 7. therefore. opiates. Zoa-Phora is a vegetable compound. tonic to carry them safely through the various changes of womanhood. No opiates or narcotics to suddenly deaden your pain and in time ruin your nervous system. that you have found a treatment perfected to the limit of modern medical discovery. does not make drunkards or a craving for stimulants. It is indeed (Woman's Friend). narcotics. Does not this prove that Zoa-Phora is beyond question all that it is claimed to be? Write today and we will send you a copy of its formula. No alcohol in it to Zoa-Phora is excite the nervous system and make you feel fine for a few hours and then leave you weak and exhausted. Mother. It is manufactured only of the best and most valuable roots and herbs known to science. Wife. In addition to the splendid tonic effects of Zoa-Phora many women need a good local treatment and in order to encourage the use of our Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones in all cases when needed we are making the following offer of a full Ten Days' Treatment of our Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones (further information on page 79 of this book). give Zoa-Phora a chance to do its good work. for nearly women.— WHAT Is IS ZOA-PHORA? is Zoa-Phora" THIS question "What women seeking asked by intelligent reply. No expense is spared in modern medical science are used in its its Zoa-Phora is not a secret formula. 4. Zoa-Phora contains only the best and purest Positively the best ingredients preparation. and given entire satisfaction. harmful drugs. patent medicine— not some dope handed down by an the prescription of Dr. composition. but Zoa-Phora is 2. The following indisputable evidence will convince the most skeptical of the merits and value of Zoa-Phora. Maiden. rational. relieved and cured the very worst forms of Female Trouble and ailments peculiar to women. are not afraid to publish to every woman and to every physician and to the whole world. Our remedies are used by the thinking class of women throughout the United States and we are giving you a few reasons why you are safe in choosing Zoa-Phora in preference to all other remedies and why you are guaranteed satisfaction. It does not make "drug fiends. — of diseases of the market for the treatment 50 years. a satisfactory. We to cure. and Grandmother find it the best woman's especially the sexual organism. If compounded your druggist has no free box for you have him With the purchase of one Dollar-size bottle of Zoa-Phora the bearer is entitled to a full ten days' special treatment of the Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Cones which the Zoa-Phora Company are supplying the drug trade free of charge for this purpose. inferior preparations Zoa-Phora is not an ordinary ignorant layman. just what Zoa-Phora is compounded of. Zoa-Phora 3. Pengelly. — on the market. 8. or any dangerous or 5. Zoa-Phora does not contain minerals. Present this coupon to your nearest druggist. plain. Zoa-Phora is one of the oldest reliable preparations on It has. Page 95 . one of the greatest Specialists of his age in the treatment of the diseases of women." as do some of the cheap. When you know what Zoa-Phora really is you will be convinced if you are suffering with any form of disease peculiar to women.

4706 Detroit Avenue Wilson Drug Co. The Zoa-Phora Remedies 1803 Co.DEC 19 1912 One Set of Silver Teaspoons Free To Users of Zoa-Phora Send us the front of the carton or box from any one of the packages in each of three divisions below arranged and the full set of RANTED TEASPOONS \L SIX TRIPLE PLATED. etc. 1 - Number Number Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Pile Zoa-Phora (Woman's Friend) 2 - $1. Standard Drug Stores Purity Drug Co. 15621 Detroit Avenue Ludwig Pharmacy..50 . 16924 Detroit Avenue Dole. 18503 Detroit Avenue Go today to your nearest druggist and procure the remedies you need and send the faces from the packages direct to These beautiful teaspoons axe of the favorite Narcissus pattern.50 .25 - Not One Cent to Pay for the Teaspoons Now or Later Send us the three wrappers or cartons as indicated above. Adams Street Page 96 TOLEDO. which means one Zoa-Phora (Woman's Friend) wrapper and your choice of any one of the remedies in Number Two and one from Number Three..50 - - .25 .25 . 11600 Detroit Avenue Alford Crocker.50 Remedy - Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones Number Balm ----3 - . full line And in Lakewood and Detroit Avenue the of Zoa-Phora supplies can be procured from Lindsley Drug Co..25 Digestive Tablets Stomach and Liver Pills Anti-Constipation Pills - .00 Cold Remedy La Grippe Remedy . OHIO . and will wear a life time. FULLY WARwill be sent you by return mail. You can procure Zoa-Phora from every including the first class druggist in Cleveland. Marshall Drug Stores The May Co. best triple plated. fully warranted.


LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 080 524 5 .


LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 080 524 5 .