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white or black. sealed to insure cleanliness. boned. not bust measurement. and the Professional Dressmaker. (new). greatly improve appearance garment.^ DRESSMAKING SPECIALTIES Without Shoulder Form Long ci loulder Ready] cms Made Pitied "Waist Lining EAL. 35 and 50 cents. (1) front for long coat. 75 cents. Work and Worry almost finished lining for tight-fitting waists. lias hooks and eyes. D— "GREANET" InvisibleV&isi Foundaiion ] E— Perfect rust F— Very SilkCovered armhole. 3 for 10 cents. 50 cents to $1.. A— Perfected. proof. Money. if Money you are not satisfied. B— Produce of any shoulder effect desired. PRACTICAL HELPS FOR THE HOME or Made / .00 (CSS) Eton front. Black or white. has hooks and eyes. HEAVILY COVERED WITH PURE SILK FLOSS. You cannot make anyone of these essentials for anywhere near the price. "G" Co. Carefully manufactured of best materials for correct tailoring of garments in prevailing styles. SI.open front or hack. C— Tailor made. 75c. seamless belt. Bray. for short coats. in transparent envelopes. clever pad. Designed for the trade and now sold in leading Dry Goods Stores everywhere. or lace waists on high. invisible. pliable. boned with hasted seams ahove. cotton. or nlack percaline. nor after hours of tiring effort obtain the perfect they insure. ready for draping. A loose-fitting net lining for light.50 to $4.00. Write Dept. New York Page 1 . chiffon. 15 cents a pair. silk Corsica. washable. of thoroughly shrunken linen canvas reinforced with hair-cloth and felt. 5 for 15 cents. white your waist. very helpful in altering or reinforcing fronts. guaranteed collar supports. on new principle. Use one or all and fit Coat Fronls \ Save Time. has Collar Support at If you cannotobtain GREAN SPECIALTIES We supply you dealer and send you will your dealer's. silk *l DO. 00. Order by exact size of Linolawn. back. write us. direct or through a reliable a catalogue oj other dressmaking helps.. 15 cents a pair. $3. fills in usual hollows around overlapping padded points for shoulders. Grean Shoulder Form and Pad 327-329 East 34th Street. shaped.

— Catch Stitch 12.— Tucks and Pleats 55. 2. 41. Emblems and Monograms — Eyelets — —To and Eyelet Embroidery 14 16 16 16 16 17 17 18 54. 5.. 59. 14.. 47. Page 5 6 30.—Satin Stitch (French broidery) 8 37.'. 60.— Seed Stitch 1 5.— Long and Short Stitch 20.— Fagot Stitch 13.— French Knots 14. — Facings — Gathering Hem 26 26 26 26 27 27 22. 48. 36.— Embroidery Scallops.— Welt Seam — Lapped Seam — French Seam — Hemming —To Hem Corners — Damask Hem 46.— Feather Stitch 19.— Milliner's Fold 39. Sewing on Lace or Embroid58. Page 21 21 21 . ".— Blanket Stitch 24. EmIS.— Braiding 28. 32.— Couch Stitch 1 1. Cleveland.— Felled Seam — Bound Seam — Strap Seam 45. 27.. Stays and Collar — Putting Supports — Marking of Linen and Underwear — Embroidery Designs in in . .— Outline Stitch 8.— Rolled 53. Lesson 29.- — Sewing on Buttons — Loops — Darning — Stoting — Patching — Overhand Patch" — Bands and Folds . 52. 22 22 23 24 24 24 24 24 24 24 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 51.— INTRODUCTION 2.— Button Hole Stitch 25.'. (£.'.- 61.— Chain Stitch 9. Lesson 1 . -WORKING INSTRUCTIONS. 27 28 28 28 29 Copyright 1912 by Lydia Trattles Coates Page 2 . Ohio CONTENTS 1. 23.— Punch Work 16. 26.— PLAIN AND FANCY STITCHES.'. . and Overhanding 7 7.—TO HOLD THE GOODS 3.— Damask Stitch 16. 35. — Knot —Running Stitch — Basting — Backstitch — Overcasting Stitch 6 6 7 7 7 33.IttHtntfittfltt —loral Beginners' Voices Carefully Built and Trained lira. Make Buttonholes 20 — ery Embroidery — Setting on Lace or and Eyes — Sewing Hooks 27.— Double Folds 38. 4. 3. . 34. 31.— Solid Embroidery 21.— Piping 40.—Ruffles 26. 50. 62. 44. 49.— Slant 6.. 4.— Cross Stitch 18. GUjrato Nutnttan IpII Eaat 541 13TB East mtlf fctrwt COATES SEWING AND DRESS MAKING MANUAL Published by Coates Advertising Agency..- 12 13 13 13 — Cording — Seams 42.— Cable Stitch 10. 57. Chevrons.— Hem Stitch 17.. 8 8 9 10 10 10 11 11 11 43.— Shirring 56. .

Lesson Lesson 74. 88.— COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS SPECIFIC WORK Lesson — Plackets —Belts and Bands —Yoke and Peplums (K) (L) 63. 82. 85.—THE WELL GROOMED WOMAN. 89.— INFANT'S OUTFIT Lesson — Making the Infant's " 107.— LAUNDERING 3 88 91 93 86 86 87 93 92 94 Page . Costumes and Coats 77- 95. — Children's 105. 8. 80. — Maternity Corsets —Maternity Gowns — Maternity Skirts GIRLS' SUPPLIES.—Turn Down Collars 69. — Children's 136. SHRINKING ING. 94. 83. ness 72- 90. 100. — AND 48 48 49 MATERNITY OUTFIT.. 82 83 83 84 85 85 .— Girl's School Dress 103. (D)— Millinery (E) — Lingerie 76.— Sleeves 70.- —Jackets 76 76 78 79 80 81 81 PRESS50 50 51- — Sponging -Pressing 98. 64..— Children's Underwear Outfit.— FITTING AND ALTERATIONS.. Cuffs and Lap Closings 72. — Street. —Boning 38 40 41 — Shirt Waist Supporter — Rain Coat and Waterproof Garments Lesson — Corset Covers — Drawers " — Chemise " 81. 77. 75.— MILADY'S WORDROBE (A) — Corsets (B)— Sanitary Belts (C) — Sanitary Skirt Protectors. 72 74 75 75 7.— Girl's -Gowns 104. and Shrinking 13.5410. FOR 42 42 43 44 45 45 43- Kimonas 87. 79. — Lesson — Fitting and Alterations.. Lesson " " 102.— Petticoats — Skirts and Underwear Without Plackets — Dressing Sacques (F) (G) " 78. —The Young Lady's Dresses — Maternity Outfit Wardrobe 9.. Cleveland and Graduate of School of Expression.— NECESSARY (A) MAKING ACCESSORIES (B)—Threads (C)— Sewing Thread (D) (E) SEWING AND Page DRESS30 30 30 31 313431 33 — Sewing Machine (F)— Linings (G)— Patterns — Embroidery Thread Hooks and Eyes (H)— Tape (I)— Dress (J) 35 35 Shields 39- 36 37 —Dress Form —Dress Trimmings 6.— Shirt Waists 91. 65.— High Collars 67. 57 58 60 61 61 62 63 64 64 —Rompers Coats 15. 66. .— Making of Gowns 92. (B) — Scientific Beauty Culture 5811.— Aprons — — Lingerie Waists — Housekeeping Gowns — Evening and Dinner Gowns.— Shirt Waist Sleeves 71.— DYEING 18.— SPONGING. 99. Curry. Page 64 65 66 66 67 67 67 68 68 68 69 70 71 71 84. 16. (A) — The Well Groomed Woman.— Coat Sleeve 73.— Pockets Traveling Skirts and Busi- 46 47 47 96. Cutting 53 —CHILDREN'S CLOTHES.— Dress 12. 110.— Tailored Collars 68.— CLEANING 17. President Bell Doan 1369-R 9608 Hough Avenue CONTENTS 5.— SCHOOL Lesson " " 14 101.Inatruflton Expression Literature Interpretation Pantomime Harmonic Training Art of Play Writing and Criticism iFlomtrp Hartlja itaaett (Swr^r) Graduate of Harroff School of Expression. Boston Dr. 86.. 93.— CUTTING.— Night Gowns — Combination Undergarments. Lesson 97. — Making of Dinner Gowns.

' .. Mfg. 31.. Co. Sanche for the purpose of healing the sick. 76. T. E. Pneumatic Form Co. (Senora Coffee) 24 22 24 Wm. * Call or Send 10 Cents for Postage.. (Sewing Silk) Belding Bros. Thus writes Are you suffering from Rheumatism. Mrs. (Morlene) Korach. but as and setting of the sun. Co. Co. 4 P. Co. & Co Lawson School of Music Lickes Drug Co. C. & C. (Katharos) Ellsworth Public Hand Laundry Reis Initial Co. (Public Stenographer). (Embroidery Initials) 74 50 39 65 94 14 29 28 18 19 71 Richardson Silk Facial College Elwako Mfg. 68 9 72 41 46 54 37 11 Review Co. Mrs.OXYDONOR "This wonderful little appliance. (Naiad Dress Shield) Continental Casualty Co Creme de Luxe Cummer Products Co. health. ("Hair Vim") Snow Flake Laundry Shaver. Dr. (Sleeve Initials) Reis Initial Co. infallible as the daily rising Investigate. B. H. (Sanitary Belt). 29 21 34 23 12 17 7 Arbor Tea Shop Art Pleating Shoppe Baird Bros.. (Piano Instruction) 58 20 60 93 42 73 3 ' Co G. (Linings) Belle Vernon Dairy Co Berner's Art Store Boston Dry Goods Co B. Abbie E. No. 30. Association 7. & (Shino) (Dress Form) Co. 95. Frank (Dentist) Electra Pure Water Co. The process is natural and very simple. (Book and Art Exchange). Joseph. (Real Estate) Conover. Review Co. David (Shirtwaist Belts) Battle Creek Sanitarium Food Co Belding Bros.... Chester (Vocal Instruction). & P. (Dunham's Specific) Long. etc. 13.. Margaret B. The C. (Dentist) Bryson Co. (Wrinkle Eradicators) 64 26 61 64 5 84 64 52 80 40 56 56 33 2 5 31 8 34 25.. Maud De Long (Dermatologist) Smith Carriage & Auto Co Smith Chemical Co.. Nervousness. 55. Grean Shoulder Form and Pad Grean Dress Making Specialties Grean Long Coat Front Foundation Grean Short Coat Front Foundation Grean's "Greanet" Grean Fitted Waist Lining Grean Coat Collars Fassett.. (Fashion Book) B. Priestley. (Tape) Sons Co. (Ganesh Toilet Preparation) A. Miller. Mrs. (Sanitary Protectors) American Textile Mfg. (Monarch Polish) Basch. (Funeral Director). or are any of your family suffering from disease? If so. Ohio Office Furniture Co 91 5 Oxydonar Parrish... 69 63 16 76 91 15 8. Rosenblum Clothing Co Sanar Remedy Co (Attorneys at Law) Shop of Kimonas and Art Laces Skalla.. Co. Van Gorder (Havanco Mending Tissue) Haserot Co. C. . E... Co. H. Restaurant Co. & & Sons Co. Mandarin. even if all else has failed. 64 38 66 32 36 62 83 96 Page 4 . Co. Cleveland Credit Clothing Co Cleveland Dress Trimming Co College of Science (Acme) Connelly Co. (Embroidery Silk) Belding Bros. Wright. R.. F. Main 730 Ohio Agency. Spinal Trouble. 6 44 60 47 1 Vacuum 20 55 89 13 77 78 54 35 45 48 55 Grean Arm Pad Grean Fitted Belt Griffith Warner Hat Shoppe Warren Featherbone Co White Sewing Machine Co Wilson Dress Hook Co Wright. (Elwako Laundry Aid) Euclid Cafetiere (Lunch Club) Farr. (Cravenette) 60 88 9 Dye) Dowd. G. Stroud. (Sewing Machine Supplies) Studio (Art Work) Cedar Cleaning Works Chandler. (Osteopathic Physician) Morehouse Co Noteman. T. (Energine Shoe Dressing) Devoe. L. you will be restored to health. performs which border on miracles. Co. Ellen C. (Woven Names) Reis Initial Co. (Peacock Carlton Monks. 337 Old Arcade INDEX TO ADVERTISERS Page Adair. (Domestic Cleaner) Swalley's Credit Store Telling Co. A. Phone. (Dust Bright) 59 63 10 Page Hawley Restaurant Henke Furniture Co Hexter's Lining Store Ideal Faucet Syringe Co Interstate Drug Co. Pioneer Mfg. by all means secure one of Dr. (Embroidery Catalog). Hall. if you want pREE— Books on Health. Pictoral Pictorial J. W. N. F. M. Co. & C. E. Raynolds Co. Young Women's Zoa Phora Co Christian 57. cures. Diabetes." Edward Rigby of Lisbon. E. Ohio. Miss L. invented by Dr. Berthe (Corsets) 86 19 53 58 51 II May Co. The May.. Stomach Trouble. Sanche's Oxydonor's and by the use of it as directed. (Ice Cream) Universal Dry Cleansing Co Victor Insect Exterminating Co 43 75 & Florence Martha (Expression) Frederick Piano Co Fries & Schuele Fulton. (Embroidery Scallops) Reis Initial Co. (Manicuring and Chiropody).. Oxydonor will do it. Mrs. Wm. & Co.

LAXATIVE BRAN BISCUITS "The samples you gave do the work ine were delicious" BATTLE CREEK SANITARIUM FOOD Page 5 CO.. Thus dressmaking will become an Art and a Science and a pleasure instead of a nerveracking. INTRODUCTION. without as complete a wardrobe as they would like to have or pay out more money than they feel that they should spare to get . E. and hiding any possible defects of her contour or carriage will work as an artist. has been written on the subject of sewing and many of our best magazines have given us invaluable information. Many women go garments made or are forced to wear unbecoming.. THE OHIO OFFICE Chandler Central 332 1-K Main 1368 FURNITURE Bell.. etc. Ohio 429 The Arcade North 1450 I. using herself as the model and her materials. L. S. On the other hand if they know just how to go ahead and have each step made plain for them to follow they could add many beautiful garments to To be sure much that is very helpful their wardrobe at a very small cost. Quigley Desks Chairs Armor-Clad Steel Furniture Cuspidors and other Office Furniture Murphy & Gunlocke Miss L. as the means of presenting to the world her ideal of thought. 1145 Prospect Ave. simple and comprehensible set of Sewing and Dress Making Lessons have been compiled without waste of words or unnecessary repetitions. Sewing is an art and the woman who clothes herself with an eye to bringing out the possibilities of her grace and beauty and best points of individuality. 111-112 Old Arcade . CO. trimmings. We have made the system as brief and as easy as possible and by following faithfully the instructions and always turning to the lessons designated you will find that you have a reliable guide to the making of every essential garment for your wardrobe. non-individual clothes simply because they do not know exactly how to cut and fit and make and finish the articles of their apparel and without complete instructions before them do not feel like risking the time and the material in experimenting. laboritheir — ous piece of drudgery. but many women do not preserve these periodicals or have not the time to wade through all the other literature and sometimes a labyrinth of instructions to find out the system of properly cutting out and putting together and finishing a dress or suit or piece of underwear or perhaps doing up a piece of household sewing. For this reason this plain.Public Stenographer Duplicating Filing Devices Tables. Cleveland.

Lesson Stitch. left hand.— RUNNING STITCH. by backstitching (Lesson 4).$200 Sound Proof Demonstrating Parlors Experienced Salesmen. 1612 EUCLID AVENUE Page 6 . FREDERICK PIANO CO.->.CHAPTER III. TO HOLD THE GOODS. . leaving the right hand Never hold the work so as to crush and free with which to do the stitches. Lesson 5.oOOCNO''. hold the work firmly in the left hand. FANCY Lesson 1. hemming of fragile garments. . and do not form the bad habit of pinning the work to your skirts and then humping over to do it or winding seams over the forefinger of your left hand. CHAPTER PLAIN.. Lesson 17. crumble it nor yet so loosely that the stitches are taken unevenly. Knots should never be visible in any sewing except in basting. but learn and practice holding and doing your work properly and sitting erect. Running 2. Basting Stitch. gathering. French seams. (3) (4) Lesson Hemstitch.. -.—Thread AND ORNAMENTAL STITCHES. The Lesson 2. W. (1) (2) Slant Stitch. The Proof of the Pudding is in the Eating The Proof of "Frederick Service" In the Trying is Every Record Every Victrola $15. needle with proper sized thread and hold in Wind thread once over forefinger of right hand and pull tightly. Always hold the goods in a position so the stitches are taken toward you. Sit up straight. Always take stitch under the hem or seam to hide knot but in open space where this is not possible fasten thread by taking two or three stitches over each other or — KNOT. materials. F.— stitches through the cloth should It will be of exact and equal length. . Try Our Superior Service Today. IV. be in constant use for seams on light etc. 3.

Sewing Millinery Apply to the Cookery Dining Room Service Dietetics Dressmaking Tailoring Shirt Waist Young Women's Christian Association Prospect Avenue and East 18th Cleveland. This is one of the most particular lessons in sewing as every stitch must be exactly the same in height and distance apart.— Baste material with edges exactly even or if single trim smooth and even. Use Slant Stitch (see Lesson 5). Begin next stitch exactly where last stitch left off on upper side of sewing (see cut 1).— Begin at the right and work toward the left. Beginners or Advanced Pupils Private or Class Lessons Day or Evening Jim Best Instruction Moderate Prices Page 7 . page 6). Point the needle toward the left shoulder and pass it through a few folds of the material and a few threads of the fold. Lesson 6. The half back stitch is taken half way back between the space of where the thread is drawn through and where the stitch leaves off on the upper side.— BACKSTITCH.—The Lesson 5. using two or three stitches to hold (never knot under a fold). then take a short back stitch back on the upper side and a long stitch forward on the under side. Lesson 3. Ohio All branches of Music and Dramatic Art taught in a thorough.— OVERCASTING AND OVERHANDING. Lesson 4. CIk Cawson School of music and Other Tine 10507 Superior Avenue Cleveland. Hold your goods with the edges which you are sewing on toward you. —BASTING. Voice Culture of both the singing and speaking voice a specialty. From under side draw needle through cloth exact depth to be overcasted or overhanded and take stitch over and through twice to hold firmly.—Take a few running stitches (see Lesson 2). Insert the needle under the fold. (See cut 1. handing are to have needle point at exact depth and be exact distance between each stitch. varying the distance between stitches according to the quality and thickness The two important features of perfect overcasting or overof the material. Ohio West Side Branch Franyin and West 32nd Home Nursing Home Making Chafing Dish St. Making Trade Class Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister Cooking fundamental principle of all good fitting and adjusting lies in the proper basting. Lay your cloth perfectly in place and then fasten by taking even or uneven running stitches through the material as in cut.— SLANT STITCH. practical and artistic manner. progressive.

" write tell you where it can be obtained.American STITCH.— CHAIN the top of your design and always your needle to point a towards needle through material. side of the Take each stitch back two threads on the precedtightly. 528 Broadway STITCH.— The the cable as the chain stitch needle is made almost exactly Lesson 8).— OUTLINE T TTVT/^O French . If and we will BELDING BROS. & CO. holding your work with the needle pointing toward you and always keeping the thread on the same needle. hold down Draw you.— CABLE STITCH. bringing needle through one stitch distance ahead and proceed as before. Lesson 9. Belding's teed fast dve. your dealer does not carry "Belding's. half stitch is (see way back the center.Have You Tried T^T lriLLlllVJO ICECREAM? Lesson 7. ing stitch and draw rather yet not enough to wrinkle the goods. take a short stitch through the material. instead of at Page 8 .— Start have left New York at City Lesson 8. thread under thumb form loop. except that drawn through at the side. New Process Embroidery Silk and every conceivable shade. of the previous stitch. in eight different twists.— Take even stitches. guaranus.

BELTS. SUITS. Etc. Underin not forgetting the exquisite designs for wear. Seed. Y. New York. Are all illustrated. Add 15 cents for The New Pictorial Review Embroidery Catalog. HAND BAGS. Send 20 cents for a sample of this work begun on special and one large needles. profusely illustrated and contains designs for all the various kinds of embroideries. or The May Co. Hold the threads in place with your left hand and fasten them to the material with small stitches on the right side. Price 10 cents. The "New" Pictorial Review Embroidery Catalog is filled with ideas and suggestions of interest to any It is woman who em- broiders or does fancy work. by mail.Lesson 10. and Infants' and Children's Wear. Page 9 . Satin. Pictorial Fully explained and illustrated in linen. Solid and Outline Including numerous designs for the popular Braid Work and the Punched Embroidery. —'Couching thread at is made by apart laying straight lines equal distances across the design. —COUCH of STITCH. New The New of the Review Embroidery Catalog. COSTUMES. N. SHIRT WAISTS. many DOILIES. either the These may be obtained Transfer or Perforated Patterns Purchase a copy today at any newsdealer. SKIRT PANELS. 15 cents THE PICTORIAL REVIEW COMPANY THE PICTORIAL REVIEW BUILDING 222 West 39th Street. such as Eyelet. having the stitches in each row fall between those of the opposite row.

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the . Cleveland. water-color. Lesson 15. and ask us to tell you today and let us explain or call up CENTRAL WHAT FIVE CENTS PER DAY WILL DO FOR YOU. of the hem. Lesson Protect -Yourself .and .— HEMSTITCHING. CONTINENTAL CASUALTY CO.) 16. pictures in Book ana Art exchange 31 Taylor Arcade Monogram Work. THE ELLEN and C. FRAMING A SPECIALTY.— Fasten up the thread on right side. Paints for china 10c and 15c each. O.E.— SEED STITCH. 358 The Arcade SICKNESS OR AN ACCIDENT MAY COME TOMORROW ACT TODAY — Page 11 . Birthday. unexpected piece of bad luck comes. also teach work. Schofield Bldg.Mgr. laid draw through in the number of threads have been opposite direction at even distances apart another set of threads. needle under and through the hem.— Draw the required number of threads Hold the hem and turn hem and baste exactly below last thread drawn. 1.— DAMASK needle across STITCH. for exact position of needle). china decorating and firing.. wrong side and bring the through pattern to carrying When the be worked. Come in 2357 -W. LONG teach or paint to order.—The back seed stitch is made by taking small stitches covering the leaf or petals of a design or in monogram. W. stitches The rows must be evenly spaced and the each row falling midway between those of the rows at either side of them. (See Lesson 11. Be positively and safely provided for by the largest Health and Accident Insurance Company in the world. page 6.Watt. your cash income does not stop just when you most need it.Breadwinner Then when the unforseen. insert the to as many threads as are desired (always the same number). Congratulations for Birth Carlton Studio 1430 Announcements and other special occasions. Lesson 14. group from three toward you. and draw the needle through to the right of the group and take a short stitch in the fold (See cut No. We insure both Men and Women. Anniversary. pastel or crayon. At the place where the threads cross catch to thread desired down with the cross stitch. High Grade Stationery. Wedding. Dainty Cards.Art We do stencil Work oil.

Enlarged Joints. Morlene is not an experiment. its effectiveness has been thoroughly proven. we will say that in every dangerous and disagree92% of all cases. no matter tions is unsightly and disagreeable.— The cross stitch simply bringing one stitch across the angle of the other. and it often produces dangerous condiaffecting the eyes. Ohio Page . the breathing or the blood flow to and from the brain. possible misrepresentation case Morlene relieves the able conditions accompanying Goitre and gives entire satisfaction to how bad or how long standing. Inflammations The above statement has been so thoroughly proven that we are almost tempted to say Morlene However. If he fails send us SI. Tumors. Thick Neck or Goitre by Tumors and for the sake of a better appearance the Double Chin. to say the least.Lesson 17. are. GOITRE will disappear when treated with MORLENE Also Thick Neck. you are not tell them afflicted but of Morlene. therefore we want every person afflicted with Goitre and similar troubles to know that there is a remedy which is really a success in If 92% of all cases. Double Chin.— CROSS is STITCH. 50 and we will promptly deliver a full size package containing a sufficient quantity for an ordinary treatment of 30 days. to avoid will cure any case of Goitre. Your druggist can supply you MANUFACTURED ONLY BY The Interstate Drug Company 12 Cleveland. have relatives or friends who it. so it is always best to get rid of any enlargements about the throat whether they be Goitre. They should know about if he wants your trade.

CLEVELAND. It's just another instance of White superiority. Hotels. O. with pencil or Lesson 18. ONLY No powder dust left — No poison— No bad odors. one-half the dis- tance depth as the succeeding one. Let us hear from you. Our experts Our methods are used & B.— the the only is equipped with a Cast-off. It is the method endorsed by the Government experts of all nations. to say nothing of the loss of time in trying to get the machine to work right.— Mark thread along the line chalk or run a colored to be followed. first on the right then on the left. 426 PROSPECT Both Phones Victor Insect 351 The Arcade Exterminating Co. mice. and recommended by the State Medical authorities as being the only absolute remedy known to Science. is The double feather or briar stitch is made by taking two stitches to the right of one while the triple feather stitch right and three to the left. long and short stitch in successive rows until the design entirely filled . and you can imagine the annoyance it has caused the operator. White Sewing Machine Co. Warehouses.— SOLID EMBROIDERY. Talk about trouble why. It should be fumigated by our method once a year it will be clean and healthful. Thread Cast-off (it's exclusively White) and the difficulty vanished as if DON'T NEGLECT YOUR HOME by magic. thread stitch down directly on downward to left the of the mark or mark line and hold with thumb and take short or line and repeat taking stitch. insects. and two stitches to the left. bring needle through to right side.— Is Page 13 made by using is the in. (see Lesson except that one stitch in is taken. (See cut). left line. There's no time like the present to look the White over. etc. manufacturers of Rotary machines have had a world of trouble with the thread tangling in the shuttle race. Happily the White experts came to the rescue with this remarkable device THREAD CAST-OFF THE White Rotary Thread machine — SANITATION HEALTH HAPPINESS Our method is of fumigation and insect extermination absolutely the most up-to-date and efficient method in use. bedding. Churches and Stores of all germs. rs^J Lesson 20. exclusively on the C.— FEATHER tailor's STITCH— BRIAR STITCH.—LONG AND SHORT STITCH — stitch Follow exact instructions as slant 5). instead made by taking three stitches to the Lesson 19. We rid Boats. etc. upholstered furniture. Knot bring thread. Penetrates through plastering. rats. are at your service. —then Boats. hold thread take a short stitch through and to the right side of down with the mark or thumb.

we guarantee that they will retain their shape and appearance through all the washings. booklets. They are very simple. of embroidery their attractiveness. Reis Gumbac Foundations are not made of ordinary paper or even papier mache." 1J 4 Gumbac Scallops come in six styles— 26 patterns. Remarkable as it may seem. sample strips of scallops and samples of the Reis Letters in your initial. yards REIS FOUNDATION LETTERS Are made Script in three styles: Harmonizing colors gramrr. page IS. The cut shown in Lesson 25. Just moisten the back and stick on. desired tone of expressive charm— an indication of character— the "intangible something" of which a woman can well be proud. the scallops or embroidered edge vary according to the Often the depths of pattern or design to be worked and the outline must be very carefully followed. a name of a dealer in your city stamp and the who would most you in re- likely handle our goods. The material in their composition is of European origin. and retail at a uniform price of 10c per card of to the small sizes and S of a yard to the large. many other designs so much vogue at the present time. Reis' Letters and Scallops make embroidering simply delightful with the Stamping. Nor will they discolor or harm the finest fabric. 620 Broadway. Hold thread under left thumb forming loop.— SATIN STITCH. LEARN AX OUR EXPENSE How easily the most inexperienced sewer can create perfectly stunning effects in embroidery with the new Reis Gumbac Foundations Scallops.— (French Embroidery)— The or Initials. Our standing offer is as follows: "We Will Pay for Any Garment Injured Gumbac Foundations Through Washing or Re!s by Reis Ironing.ed des'gns the letters.— Fasten thread by running and back stitches. and in satin stitch is the stitch taken straight across from one edge to the other of the design or taken on a slant from one edge to the opposite edge. boilings and ironings that the article on which they are embroidered will withstand. If you can thread a needle you can successfully use them. Draw needle through loop and repeat taking every stitch very closely together so no gap appears between the stitches. New York Page 14 . and work over with That's all. Take stitch through material depth desired with needle pointing downward.— EMBROIDERY SCALLOP STITCH.Lesson 21. shows the exact position of the needle. We will send turn our In Sizes from % inch to 10 Inches. REIS' FOUNDATION Letters and Scallops They add that much help to make your wearing apparel and household linen distinctively rich. silk or cotton. Underlaying and Basting difficulties eliminated. new Sold at the Art Counter of Any Department Store Reis Initials. Lesson22. especially silk will add to when working mono- Block Old English — easily accomplished 2-cent by interlacing Send us your name. You will use the Satin Stitch in making in the Chevrons.

tedious and laborious manner of embroidering scallops new. pleasant and easy way. Then a running stitch must be very carefully taken at the exact line desired to indicate the depth. THE B. With these attachments you have a cleaner with every advantage of an electric machine at a little greater cost than the best Bissell Carpet Sweeper. 15 STROUD CO. D OMESTIC VACUUM C LEANER Dirt and Dust are a Constant Menace to Your Home A of large percent of our contagious dis- eases are carried into the home by reason germ laden dust. The old method is to buy a transfer pattern or hire the stamping done. For free demonstration phone Main 2463. is only Vacuum Cleaner with Full Ball-Bearings and a BaliBearing Adjustable Roller under the suction the plate for light or The DOMESTIC heavy cleaning. old. Then you must pad your scallops with the chain stitch using a good filling cotton. E. Ohio . Lesson 22. The DOMESTIC Hand Cleaner is as powerful as the best portable electric. cabinet built and will the only hand cleaner The DOMESTIC is with attachments for cleaning Mattresses.THE OLD WAY TO EMBROIDER SCALLOPS. & C. or come to our office. etc. 510 The Arcade Page Cleveland. When your foundation is completed then embroider according to embroidery scallop is is There and there an a stitch. or Central 8258 K. is The DOMESTIC last a lifetime. H. Upholstery.

See cut of Lesson 25. row. L.AUTOMOBILE PAINTING. send it down in the first up again in the first dot of the first row and draw the thread slightly to pull the goods together.— BLANKET STITCH. TRIMMING. To save time and energy and to insure satisfactory results with your work. and repeat. Then fastening your thread on the under side of the material.— Begin by fastening thread by using running and back stitch. Smith. Proprietor THE NEW WAY TO EMBROIDER SCALLOPS. Make stitches very even and rather tight and then shape perfectly with . for exact position of needle.— BUTTONHOLE STITCH. The blanket stitch is the same as the buttonhole stitch only each stitch is made instead of very close together as the buttonhole stitch is done. — Lesson 24. Hold thread under left thumb forming loop take stitch depth desired with needle pointing downward. begin work in the upper left-hand corner of the design. Lesson 25. then punch with a stiletto. Then send the needle down in the first dot of the second row and bring it up in the second dot of the first row. AND Set the needle for each stitch just outside the cotton outline stitch and draw the point through the stilettoed opening or set the needle through the opening. taking care to always have the stitches exactly the same distance apart and exactly the same height.— Thread the long special and knot it at the eye. a small distance apart. oblong or pointed. NEAR CORNER OF EUCLID AVENUE Smith Carriage $ Auto Co. All you need to do is to moisten the scallop. REMODELING AND REPAIRING. bringthe ing the point just outside the outline stitch.the stiletto.— PUNCHED used for WORK. F. press down with your hand and work over with the stitch taught you in Lesson 22. Lesson 23. procure the necessary length of Reis Foundation Gumbac Scallops. Run a cotton thread around the outlines with very small running stitches to hold the form.—The Buttonhole stitch and the Embroidery Scollop stitch are done exactly the same (see Lesson 22). which can be embroidered over without any of the preliminary work explained. Bring up the the work. except that in embroidery the point of the needle is toward the edge while in buttonholeing the point of the needle is toward the cloth. 1911 Cars Remodeled with Fore Doors and Repainted to Resemble 1912 Models Telephone--East S40 1970 EAST 66TH STREET. bring in first the first it Page 16 . By needle courtesy of Pictorial Review Co. oval.— EYELETS EYELET EMBROIDERY. Either manner is correct. This eliminates all the drudgery of stamping your design and all the filling-in work and gives a much more desirable effect than you can possibly obtain by the ordinary methods. Lesson 26.— Eyelets may be round. drawing needle through loop. Pass down needle dot of the dot of the second row.

_l-Mi 1^- H I L^. Bring your work to us or phone and we will tell us up by either you what we can do for you. serge or linen a braid or cord the color of the material should be used. i Lesson 27. cord. bias tubing or fine embroidery or the design can be followed with the outline or chain stitch. FOURTH STREET. The stitch used to sew on the braid is a short stitch on the right side of the For materials of net. of your We also make buttons own call material in all styles. Braiding is most suitable and effective for a border or a trimming for waists. draw the thread a bit. It can be developed with plain braid. not having the time or the inclination to do this work for themselves can make up their garment and then have experienced braiders neatly and carefully carry out your ideas in any simple or elaborate design which you may select. so the plainest or the most fastidious tastes can be satisfied.li l —^— Page 17 . OHIO m^m j i ——— jj i .^ through the second dot of the second row. Suits. bring up through the second dot of the first row. most artistic and approved designs. these patterns for braiding must be most carefully done and the design followed exceedingly accurately in order to produce a satisfactory effect. chiffon braid or cord and a long stitch on the back. To secure the most attractive effect the braid should be sewed on the edge so that it will stand up on the material. Coats and Blouses the latest. or marquisette a dull silver or fine gold or soft silk cord put on with button The stamping of hole couching makes a most beautiful border or trimming. so that the effect will be one of little squares. There infinite variety of beautiful designs and patterns now in vogue for is an Those braiding. suits. gowns. evening wraps or children's dresses and can be used on any material. turn the naterial and repeat the stitch at right angles to the first set of stitches.— BRAIDING. Misses' Braided in and Children's Dresses. Braiding Ladies'. pass down through the second dot of When the second row and bring up again in the third dot of the first row. (Braiding and Embroidering) W. Joseph Korach 1258 ^—^— & Company II. CLEVELAND. On heavy goods such as velvet. you have done all of the work in one direction. soutache.

cutting the paper or crinoline away as soon as finOr you may embroider the chevished. your monograms or We have plain and suitable for fancy letters every need of embroidery linen. household handkerchiefs. CHEVRONS AND EMBLEMS. You can either get the Reis emblems. Sold at the needlework department of every department and dry goods store or send for our illustrated bcok on embroidering and samples in your initials. etc.Use Reis Foundation Letters for initials.— MONOGRAMS. or crinoline or stiff lessons on embroidery for the monogram work. boys' suits. and a number of purposes which present them- and children always delight in an emblem or chevron on their arm. while grown ups always appreciate their monogram neatly worked on their garments. rons and monograms on a separate piece See of broadcloth or linen. work bags. chevrons and monogram foundations and selves work over them with the Lesson 21). Made in three styles-— Old English— Script— Block— sizes ^g inch to 10 inches. REIS 630 ASHABLE LETTERS •«amo r M«»OOIf)EBV BROADWAY NEW YORK The Morehouse Co. table covers. satin stitch (see you can stamp them on paper and baste them on the goods and embroider. Etc. Chevrons and emblems are very appropriate for sailor suits. such as lingerie. will supply you with Reis Foundation Letters for any desired purpose Ask Q t the needlework department Lesson 28. Page 18 . and sew on.

This extraordinary offer is made to convince every woman of the superiority Richardson's Grand Prize Wash Embroidery Silk Why your home with attractive and not beautify effective pillows when the opportunity is offered? We will give you tire this en- Pillow Outfit including 1 Pillow Top — either oblong or square Every woman wants these attractive pillows and also knows the true value of —tinted on Aberdeen Crash. Richardson's 1 Back for Pillow 1 Grand Prize Grecian Floss On sale at Diagram Lesson arrangement of stitches — showing and color scheme.— This Beautiful Pillow FREE f All we ask is that you buy 6 skeins of Grand Prize Wash Embroidery Silk Richardson's or trated lesson for ZDC and a The fully illusPillow Top and Back are absolutely FREE. and Six Skeins of Richardson's Mercerized Cotton Floss for BERNER'S ART STORE Arcade Building oniy 25 cents Page Cleveland 19 :: Ohio TOUR CHOICE OF TWELVE DESIGNS .

Distinction and Style. THE BOTTLES ARE STERILIZED and rinsed with Katharos before being filled. but is much more palatable and tonic in its qualities. KATHAROS HAS LIFE AND SPARKLE.00 I'M THE MAN That'll Always Give You Down.— TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES. IS AS AS DISTILLED WATER. The Purest Water Sold in Cleveland ( Bacterial Tests Abundantly Prove the Truth of this Statement ) THE PROCESS OF PURIFICATION necessary for the production of Katharos is the most advanced known to science. then cut straight the slit to be worked. A SQUARE DEAL CWALLEY'S CREDIT STORE ^"^ 424 Euclid Ave. at prices absolutely as low as at any cash store. Pay as you can spare it. PURE ALWAYS PURE— CONTAMINATED h°nes : N ^r t 34 6 The Electra Pure Water Co. Clothes of the BETTER SORT of Clothing. First mark the exact length of buttonhole you desire. which is best described as being pure until it is declared impure. Ohio Lesson 29. Boys and Children ON CREDIT HERE you'll find the NEW. TERMS— $1. the DIFFERENT. Women. It contains enough of the minerals and salts to make it the most healthful of drinking waters.Clothes of Quality for Men. otherwise you may ruin your garment. 2035 East 18th Street Cent. NOTHING BENEFICIAL IS REMOVED by the process of purification. 3241-W Cleveland. KATHAROS KATHAROS due to the liberation of gas during the electrolytic action.— Unless you have tested your skill in making buttonholes it will be wise for you to practice until you are in a fair way to feel confidence in your ability. The volume of sickness traceable to SPRINGS is of vast proportions. Springs situated in proximity to thickly populated districts are peculiarly liable to sudden contamination. None of the tonic values are lost. over cast the edges then work with the button hole stitch (as per Lesson 24). Ohio Page 20 . Cleveland. Quality. then run a thread around the space you intend to cut. IS in which respect it is very unlike spring water. in the exact place you desire it.

. leaving the thread moderately loose. then measure exact place button is needed. they should be basted on a flat surface. as it should match in color and quality. allowing the eye of the needle to pass under first. Then begin at the bottom of the threads and insert the needle under the loops and over the thread. Always begin a little beyond the worn places so your stitches will hold. 30th . Fasten your thread with the over and over stitch. DARNING. Page 21 Co. HAVE YOU EVER INSPECTED OUR LARGE FURNITURE STORE? It Will Pay Come You in to Do So see the filled. Fasten the thread well on the under side by several over and over stitches. continue till loop is covered. Lesson 32. but in mending most materials. and run your thread exactly along the lengthwise thread of the garment. When the button is securely sewed on wind the thread a few times around under the button and fasten well on the under side of the garment. then begin on the cross wise threads and run over and under the lengthwise threads altering the over and under stitch. Get acquainted with our stock and new things with which our store is Let us show you what beautiful pieces can be had for little money. ON Lesson 31. and examine our Furniture and Floor Coverings. Place button directly over mark or pin and bring up thread through holes of the buttons.— SEWING BUTTONS. In mending stockings a darning ball may be used. repeat three or four times or until you have thickness consistent with the weight of goods you are working on.— Have button hole completed first. such as stiff paper or thin oil-cloth. LOOPS. cor. W. The darning thread to be used depends entirely — — — on the material to be darned. and in many instances a thread or ravelling drawn from the goods itself is preferable.— Lesson 30. and mark either with a pin or with tailor's chalk. draw through cloth and bring thread loosely down to exact length desired. then fasten well on under side. The Henke Furniture 3001-3021 Lorain Ave.

Lesson 34. all and press with a warm flatiron. and cut it so the weave comes exact with the place to be mended. and useful for making many other kinds of repairs quickly and effectively.— Lesson 33. place piece of goods like garment under hole. Same directions goods or other goods where part is worn thin and a patch required. — There are many materials such as rain-proof clothing or kid gloves. HAVANCO MENDING TISSUE The best thing for repairing bottoms of skirts and pants. not have the iron HOT. and patches can be put on and repairs made on a moment's notice by adhering to the following directions: Brush leaving size it all dust from garments. One For sale piece each of White. directions Re-seating or repairing knees of boys' pants.. — Stoting be is used on »%&&% WTPrfiiTi?lIli-- heavy goods. a little larger than the hole. or that can be mended much better with the Havanco Mending Tissue than with needle and thread. . druggists. silk garments. and on a rent or cut in a material which needs patching. dry goods and notion stores. also mending all kinds of rents in clothing. — Stoting. PATCHING. OHIO . boiled. silk goods and place it between the garment and the patch. On the right side cut out the worn or frayed part and make a small slit in each of the corners and turn down evenly the edges and sew down neatly on both sides of the garment. Baste patch on wrong side of goods. If possible have your patch of the same material. Remember do patches. or will of the price in stamps. send post paid upon the receipt 1382 West Ninth Street THE HALL-VAN GORDER COMPANY Page 22 CLEVELAND. etc. follow above for Garments repaired with Havanco may be washed and ironed but not Heat is the only thing that will affect it. Black and Brown Ten Cents to the by package for . Cut piece of the Havanco tissue the of the piece of lay a paper on cloth over for stockings. the stitch to mended without darning or is A is thread from the cloth used and begun back from the rent and the back and forth in running is stitch a slanting line taken until the tear has been closed.

will use the lawn hose with such force as to drive everything before it.— Where may be used. all that is required is to it is drop your medicine onto this Sponge in the cup. It is the most simple.. It is entirely unlike the old style. as there is no limit as to the supply of water. while the ordinary fountain syringe has not enough force to it to dislodge germs.— OVERHAND ordinary patch right side (see PATCH. clumsy fountain syringe.: Lesson 35. economical.•> . except that the patch to a overhanded on the and the underside neatly cut down good seam and pressed. The operator can use a pint or a gallon without stopping and at any force desired. Can be used for everything a fountain syringe is used for. the overhand patch put on the same as the is Lesson 34). and the force of the stream can be regulated to suit the purpose for which it is used from a drop of water at a time to a pressure of 50 pounds. Cleveland. A lady. so long found inefficient and unsatisfactory.. sanitary. no cumbersome water bags to get out of order. will last a life time. — The Ideal Patent Cup Attachment. always ready. in washing off dirt from the porch.. Ohio Page 23 . convenient. You can get any desired pressure or flow of water. a which has and when sponge in it. in a syringe. perfect and effective syringe ever made. if necessary.. With this Ideal Faucet Syringe you can get the same results. whereas with the Ideal Faucet Syringe you can obtain any desired force. y\ '. desired to use an antiseptic or sanative treatment in connection with a douche. screw on cap and attach to end of rubber tube before putting on the spray and then screw on the vaginal pipe and the whole stream of water is medicated with the medicine.-. which is controlled by a valve. Ackerman's Patent Ideal Faucet Syringe and Bath Spray The most wonderful improvement ever made j-i i !<v . the goods are heavy and not It is often washed. IDEAL FAUCET SYRINGE COMPANY 9601 Cedar Avenue.

Take your bias band twice the desired width and fold so the edges come exactly together. which is beautifully made at and ready for use. Fold over the top edge. and then turn under the edges of the fold and stitch with one or two rows of stitching.—A true the material with the straight edge of the top lengthwise fold exactly. the bias strip to emerge. — — Cent.B. Lesson 42. On heavy goods that do not ravel or fray out to press back the edge of the seam. or they may be protected in various manners. Seams can be joined by machine stitching. SEAMS. piping. or back stitch or the edge when of material that does not fray can be left raw or pinked. chain running stitch. Hold the cord so cannot become twisted and place the exact center of the fold. the canvas is basted in and the edges of the fold fastened down with the catch stitch.— BANDS AND FOLDS.— Cut it the bias strips twice in as wide as desired. 39. and silk thread should always be used to join the seams of a garment made of wool goods. When the fold is lined. — Piping is made of bias strips folded in the center. turn down the fold and sew neatly just below the cord.— MILLINER'S FOLD. 0. — an exactly even depth under the fold. Trim the under edge narrower than the outer. Lesson — — stitch. FELLED SEAM. make a narrow turn up of the bottom edge and bring it up to cover the edge turned down. and is an easy manner of disposing of the tailored seams. With a narrow turning fold the broad edge over the narrow edge of the seam and hem either by hand or on machine. considerably on tailored suits. or by making the felled or French seams. Good Try Our Home-like Baking QUALITY HAS BEEN OUR SUCCESS COFFEE Page 24 . — CORDING. —PIPING. 4679 K Tables fnr Ladies DRINK Griffiths Restaurant 1022-1028 Prospect Avenue SENORA Always the Same CLEVELAND. as they make a Cut your bias strips the desired easily made. Sew up the seam in any of the ordinary ways described in the preceding lesson. your bias bands two and one-half times the width desired. DOUBLE FOLD. Ask your dealer for the W. ends. and stitch on either side gives a very good finish. — — Lesson 38.Lesson 36. Lesson 40. & N. Great care must be taken that the stitches are not too fine on tailored seams. allowing only the edge of The piping may be lined or unlined. such as binding or overhanding the raw edges. 41. and are width and join the diagonal bias is Lesson 37. Baste and sew on either by machine or by hand. but the stitching must be very straight and very even.— Cut Lesson and basted N. and cutting diagonally. obtained by folding on the selvedge or straight Folds and bands are used very neat trimming.

STRAP SEAM. being careful the stitches do not show through on the right side. Cut either bias or crosswise strips and turn under both edges and stitch over a plain seam. HEM. Then cut a strip of heavy paper or notch a piece of card board the exact depth you desire your hem and use this paper or card board for a marker. overcast using the damask hem. LAPPED SEAM. — Table It is linen can be very neatly hemmed by hem. linen or cotton. while in others a hem is joined to a lace or embroidery insertion by what is called a roll hem. Baste down then hem with slant stitch (see Lesson S). & N. Lesson 49. leaving just room enough to catch the stitches nicely. Lesson —DAMASK at HEM. and overhand the end. binding turns itself so all you need to do is to fasten the binding on by hand or sew it down with machine. For the ordinary hem begin by making a narrow turning. 50. for your hem must be turned exactly even. Lesson 45. or hemstitch (see Lesson 17). Lesson — ROLLED the right side. Catch the overlap of the corners of the hem to the underlap. Lesson 44.BELLE VERNON MILK the Best Milk Lesson 43. Much time is saved however.— THE BOUND SEAM. This is one of the simplest manners in which to dispose — — — — — — of a tailored seam. yet deep enough so the turning includes all the edges.— TO CORNERS. HEMMING. — Is used for setting in insertion. The W.—THE FRENCH SEAM.) side of Page 25 . or running stitch on the right side of the garment. very simple. Lesson 47. or after turning the edges for the hem fold toward the center. turn garment and sew on wrong side taking seam of depth to entirely inclose the first seam. when hemming can be done on the machine as it saves the measuring and basting. WELT SEAM. Hems are made by turning the edge of the material twice in any suitable depth and the fold fastened down with the slant stitch or by hemstitching or in some instances the plain running stitch. Turn back the wide fold and baste down the narrow edge and stitch with one or two rows of stitching. binding. Stitch near the edge of the upper lap and again one-half inch back.— Sew the seam by machine. When finished take a moderately hot iron and press down wrong the hem on 51. Trim evenly and narrowly. of Turn fold as of for an ordinary Fold back the linen the crease the first the hem and with very fine stitches. A lap seam is as its name implies one seam lapping over another. or W.— To hem square corners. turn under exactly as for an ordinary hem. Lesson 46. Hold goods toward you and turn neatly and begin at the right and sew insertion and material together with the slant stitch. and cut out the underlying corners. The edges of the goods to be bound should be evenly trimmed and the binding basted on the edges. -Make a plain seam leaving one edge wide and one edge narrow.— The proper material for binding the edges of seams is bias bands of silk. and cut the material in the fold and hem — — HEM the bias edges. Lesson 48. (See Lesson 5. & N.

embroidery. In underwear the W. Fancy Waists. bias tape is most useful in innumerable instances. accordion pleating. tucks by hand you must make a marker and fold exactly on the line and — — sew down carefully by machine or with running stitch. TUCKS.— Is simply from two to as many rows of gatherOn most materials it ing as desired. Maternity Dresses. made of goods without a finished edge edge must be neatly hemmed the Art Pleating Shop 438 Old Arcade Cleveland Page 26 . only you must always baste down your pleats. Muffs. at Lesson 55. Place the right side of the facing against the right side of the goods and sew firmly with machine or by running stitch. Lesson — GATHERING. Embroidery or lace may be used for facing on some articles by following the suggestion of cut which is done in the same way as the ordinary facing. Etc. your goods into two or four even knot and use the simple running stitch. chiffon or any of If the ruffle is to be sheer materials.spaces. side pleating and sunburst pleating must be done but all a pleating establishment.— SHIRRING. In this instance the edge of the embroidery or lace must be heavy enough to entirely cover the edge of the material of the garment. B. Pleats are made the same as tucks. 52. And many styles of Pleat ings for Trimmings of Dresses. House Gowns. embroidery. Dressing Sacques. Children's Dresses. so it is not necessary But to make to baste in your tucks after a little practice on your machine. Street Dresses. Etc. tape. Turn and sew down either with machine or with slant stitch. lace. Facing of lace or embroidery around the neck or arm hole of sleeves is sometimes put on the right side making a trimming or finish. Dancing Frocks. a piece of goods cut either across or down the weave of the goods will do. Waists. lay a damp cloth over them and press so they will keep their fold nicely. FACINGS. unless you have a pleating machine of your own.— Divide rather make a 53. — Ruffles may be made of straight or bias goods. Use a bias band. The White Sewing Machine is provided with a tucker with which you can easily both regulate your tucks and the space between the tucks. either N. Where lace or embroidery must be joined in tucks sew the cloth so the seam will come in the fold of and under the tuck. Hats. Always draw the ends of the threads through to the underside of the garment and tie carefully. PL E ATI N G Accordeon Pleating and Side Pleating made in the newest effects for Party Costumes.— RUFFLES. & N. or on a seam. Neckwear. or the work will not look neat. Lesson 56. then heavy draw goods on gathering string into exact position desired. A first class sewing machine is provided with a tucker that can be gauged for any size tuck you desire. Lesson — — straight — Lesson 54. can be done as successfully on the sewing machine as by hand and very much quicker.

Lesson 48). and cannot rust. of insertion.. Lesson 58. Liver Pills Stomach have been used for over half a century with most For habitual Constipation and Bowel Trouble use the ZOA-PHORA Anti-Constipation Pills. B. where hooks and eyes. which is done exactly as overcasting. snap fasteners or buttons can be used. For sale at all first-class druggists. Or the lace or embroidery may be set in by using the roll hem. you will find a cut of the Wilson Dress Hook and Eye. PRICE. 25 CENTS. The Wilson Dress Hook and Eye is easy to hook and unhook. where an ordinary hook or buttonhole would be placed.. Liver Pills CO. bias tape. put the right side of the lace to the right If the machine is to be used put the edge side of the material and overhand. Props. Cut out goods Carefully baste down hem over edge leaving enough only for a narrow hem. or the ruffle may be sewed on the right side and covered with a bias band. make a second turning and hem. and if desired an edging may be sewed on either by machine The ruffle is attached to the garment or neatly overhanded (see Lesson 6). Lesson 59. See page 96 for partial list. to the necessary fullness and by placing the right side of the material and ruffle together and sewing firmly. work a ruffle of lace or embroidery may be put on with the whip stitch (see Lesson 6). Headache. children's garments or any purpose. gentle cathartic fL-J^y^-* & - RememberZOA-PHORA Stomach and gratifying results. taking pains to catch through the narrow hem on the underside.Moth 71. & N. dresses.— SEWING ON LACE OR EMBROIDERY. turn hollow side (see — Page 27 . Lesson 57.— SETTING IN LACE OR EMBROIDERY. or with a piece of the W. and stitch on right side. which we recommend for skirts. When the food is not being properly digested and the Liver refuses to work and the whole system becomes clogged with poison and you need a good.— If the lace or embroidery is to be put on by hand. MICH. either by gathering (see Lesson 52). belts. On page 32. The White Sewing Machine has an attachment wherewith the hemming is done and the lace or embroidery sewed on with one operation. of the wrong side of the lace or embroidery to the edge of the right side of the hem and stitch. and all Disorders Arising from a Sluggish Liver and Imperfect Digestion. sew hook so often happens with the ordinary hook and eye. (See Lesson 48). quick. They are flat and invisible and never slip open as To sew on.— SEWING ON HOOKS AND EYES. ZOA-FHORA KALAMAZOO. Or again the ruffle may be inserted in the hem by placing the right side of the garment and the ruffle together and turn hem back to In very fine the wrong side of the garment. N. ZOA-PHORA STOMACH The Scientific AND LIVER PILLS and Effectual Remedy for Biliousness.— Baste the lace or embroidery on the right side in the exact position desired. undergarments. waists.

ami are easily cut apart anil .- Printed from Engraved Black on fine Tape: WOMANKIND no medicine will. Every garment and piece of linen in your home should be marked. navy. in the most elaborate gowns. is This or the Reis fully embroidered articles. as well as in the simplest. which gives the inside of the boned' article a very pretty finish. prevents loss by laundries and hotels. However. They never wear out. aprons and children's clothes. The Warren Feather Bone for stays or collar supports can be stitched by machine into the lining of the article to be boned. light hlue Mark and can he had in several . in fact all laundered garments should be marked with the name or at least the initial of the member of the family to whom the article belongs. as are the ordinary hook and fastener.toward the cloth and the straight edge toward edge of cloth. for they are perfect and durable and will stand the boiling and ironing of the laundry without being damaged in the least.25 for 72 Names Names Plate-. the hosiery. JL22Z Pa ere 28 . uji 100 200 Names for $1. in a REIS' ENGRAVED NAMES t'anilin. REIS & BRO. You can get these letters or monograms in nearly any shade or style and all you need to do is to baste them on your fabrics and work over them with your embroidery cotton or silk. ami will identify you in case of REIS' NAMES come in si jj. besides being a substantial stitch to hold the boning secure. Broadway and Bleecker ®*s NEW VCKK o^v/rv. by procuring the Reis woven names. G.— PUTTING IN STAYS AND COLLAR SUPPORTS... initials plainest form the distinctive mark which The Reis foundation washable letters lends dignity to the or the Reis initial medallions should always be used. but a more attractive way is to use the catch stitch (see Lesson 11). and sew the eye where an ordinary eye or button would have been placed. Lesson 60.sewn to an i Sm Phora won't do for garment. many prefer to use the feather stitch (see Lesson 18). Lesson 61. The stitch used is simply sewing over and over through the small round holes of the hook and eye. Men's shirts should be marked with an embroidered initial just above Linen.75 If your dry p><<ds store cannot take youi orders send youi order with remittance direct to us. woven initials made on woven tape which can be neatly overcasted on the inside of the garment. It saves annoyance. REIS' WOVEN NAMES are machine woven <>n good quality white "a m hi ic tape in either red.25 IV arr-.00 for 144 $1.— MARKING OF LINEN UNDERWEAR. very quickly and easily done. $2. lingerie and handkerchiefs beautifully monogrammed or with carecuff.i different style letters. s accident.es for $1. fleeze lined and woolen underwear. St. What MARK YOUR GARMENTS WITH REIS' WOVEN NAMES Vonr garments should hear your name. The gauze.

The designs and stitches used will depend entirely upon the taste of the individual and the style and texture of the garment. Lesson 62. but all of the stitches ordinarily used will be found in this series stamping and making the garment. Our experienced embroiderers can work out in perfect effects any design you may choose for any purpose Either machine cr hand work.— EMBROIDERY DESIGNS. N. ii red. beautiful and elaborate creations. (Braiding and Embroidering) Cleveland. dresses or wash suits which meets the refined feminine approval more than embroidery designs. Embroidery Send or bring us that piece of Embroidery that you do not know how or have not the time to trouble to do. 4th St. 10c. but pretty AVERYon the fad to have the Hand Regular Dinner. pajamas. There is no trimming or ornamentation for waists. etc. Y. CJA11 you have to do is stick them on and work over with silk or cotton. However should you prefer to have the embroidery done by more experienced fingers than your own or have not the time to devote on that part of the decoration of waist or gown you will do well to take it to your local embroiderer where the work will be done by trained hands who make a specialty of lessons together with full directions for of embroidering. 630 Broadway. requires artistic ability and much to make an attractive design. Price. white. Served from 11 25 Cents to 2 p. green. G ReiS & BrOS. Ohio . We also make buttons of your own material. work a. (CLEVELAND Sixth City initial sleeve or pocket of shirts. embroidered initials are very beautiful. m. each or 3 for 25c. lavender and black. St. navy. m. On nearly all smart garments from the marquisettes and sheer chiffon and silks and dainty lawns to the heavier materials and all wash goods you will find at least a suggestion ranging from the pretty French knots and the simple outline and chain stitch following the simplest of patterns to the most intricate.The Hawley Cor. in all styles. Joseph Korach Both Phones 1258 Page 29 & Company W. Reis' Initials elimate all this work.. and ^-* R "IS • it 9 EMBROIDERED SHIRT INITIALS is West Third St. Clair Ave.

better and quicker it will do your sewing. (See page 20— Boning. (See page 21 — Dress Forms. Chalk — Skirt Marker. with ordinary care will last a lifetime so the greatest of caution should be used in selecting one. provide yourself with a variety of sizes of cotton spool thread Be sure and Page 30 . (See page 18— Trimmings. 11 Wheel (A) 40 and 41. (Silk. hemstitch and in fact do nearly everything that the human fingers can do in this line and a wise woman will keep her attachments always on hand and use them whenever possible for they will save her hours of useless labor. — Hooks and Eyes — Patterns 15 — Linings.) 37. Botti WHITE SEWINGNo. Before beginning the making of a garment. see that you have the necessary accessories at hand with which to do your work. (See page 19— Dress Shields. A good sewing machine (B) THREADS. (Cotton) Thread. A modern machine is supplied with attachments that will hem. and ? learn how much easier.) 39. 426 ProspectCO. quilt. see page 31D).Buy a Sewing Machine before you see the WHITE. shall be glad to show it up and let it speak for itself. (See page 16— Stiffenings 17 — Tape. made in One is of the greatest mistakes is sewing is the use of a needle that too large and thread that too coarse.) 36. Rotary Shuttle IX! We and "Sit-Strate" Machines. reliable and reputable make can be purchased. On the other hand do not attempt to use a coarse thread in a fine needle or a fine thread in a large needle. (See pages 12 13 14 34. Your machine must be kept perfectly clean and well oiled and by keeping the tension adjusted just right you will not need to give it much further attention. NECESSARY SEWING ACCESSORIES. gather. It is always a bad investment to buy an inferior. cheaply made machine when for the same money or a few dollars more a first class. the thread should just pass easily through the eye of the needle. or where a line of tucks or trimming is desired. but and a large spool of white basting thread and a spool of colored basting thread to use where it is not expedient to mark with a pencil or tailor's chalk.) 41. MACHINE Avenue Phones CHAPTER XI. The articles usually required are: 1 2 —Cutting Scissors — Button Hole Scissors Stick 3— Yard 4 — — — 8— 9— Pins 10 — Tailor's —Tracing 5 —Tape 6 7 Line Needles Thread.) SEIWNG MACHINE. DO DON'T DO WHAT Vibrator.) 38. (Basting) Thread.

and yet the results will be disappointing. etc. they are always unsatisfactory and a garment not properly is — Page 31 . With it you can do work that can't possibly be done on any other machine. Embroidery silk will give that rich. and that a yard of pure silk thread will stretch from two to three inches. the results to be obained will more than justify the difference in expense. cloth. It's exclusively White. is made from your dealer does not carry "Belding's. WHITE SEWING MACHINE BOTH PHONES (C) 426 CO. Great care may be used in selecting styles. and while embroidery silk more than cotton or any of the other substitutes. 528 Broadway NEW YORK There hook and (E) HOOKS AND EYES.DON'T GUESS you as a Sewing Machine user of the White Tension Indicator but see it for yourself. is strong. silk will wash and wear without fading. Be sure to drop in and see it at first opportunity. whereas a cotton or linen thread has no "give" or "stretch". lustrous and beautiful effect that cannot be obtained with any of the imitations or substitutes. consequently. count of its great strength. and so available only for White at the value to buyers. and we will BELDING BROS. will give to a stress. PROSPECT AVENUE EMBROIDERY THREAD. trimmings. Pure costs One of the (D) most important SEWING THREAD. not be generally known that silk is the strongest fiber known to mankind. is The kind of embroidery material all important. & CO. BELDING'S SEWING SILK the finest quality of raw silk. and made in every conceivable color and shade. then you'll need the WHITE. smooth and elastic. elasticity and fast color.. If us. and It may will always retain its original shape. on acproper texture." write tell you where you can get it. requisites in dressmaking is the thread used in sewing the seams. a seam sewed with silk is infinitely stronger. no greater extravagence than to invest in a cheap worthless eye. and so if you are progressive and desire to do your sewing under the most advantageous conditions. if the thread is not of the Silk thread is particularly adapted for seam making.

.N. No matter how loose or tight your garment.kooks FuBI-Size Card Sent V. N. Can not catch on trimmings.State. Cleveland. provided you have not previously had a free card Dress-hooks are guaranteed not to rust or crush in washing The Wilson and . O.** 198 St.ClairAve. They are Wilson Dress-hooks. Clair * y* ^* Town . card Wilson Dress-hooks.. making them invaluable on wash garments. Ohio hooks are sewn. snap fasteners or buttons.. its Many to of the common The brands of hooks and eyes will rust and leave marks on your garment.. White) previous sample Sold at notion counters everywhere (remember the orange and black card) Large and Small sizes. Black and White colors. Always Dress-hook Co." women accustomed to troublesome hook-. Outwear Tlense send. and eyes. while others L-oi.. Page 32 . 10c a My Name Street Ask for Wilson Dress-hooks on all ready-to-wear . best thing to do to make sure that This Embarrassment Can Never Come to You if You Use the hooks that can't "pop" open accidentally or allow the dress to gape and spread.E. garments Address J The Wilson Dress-hook Company 198 St. 1 My er's Deal- Ave.ig not go through the is laundry without pieces. — Black. E. out beyond the edse and show. "Thank you. lation to They are truly a reve- on Dress. free. .'ilson i pppp H E» d Fill Out This Coupon . oard of one dozen. Gray. — will fastened is ruined.* invisible they never pull they do not leave the usual "bunch" which tells where other yf' Cleveland.omng. J His Address. fect ease. So flat . 10c several garments. neatly closed and perfectly flat if you use these un ique hooks Though you can unhook them with per. upstairs and I'll run fix it. Name J. the back is always smooth.

but the finish of lining. the kind of hook and eyes. Co. because we make a specialty of all the little the linings and findings. Coat Pads. Page 33 .— you have a brand that in will not rust and that will positively hold your garment recommend and use in our demonstrations the Wilson Dress Hook and Eye. all the best of such are here. We Specialists in Dressmakers'' Supplies '"THE BEST DRESSED and making of their WOMEN are most often those who take the keenest interest and pleasure in the small details clothes. place. which we find is always reliable and satisfactory and costs no more than any other good fastener. the quality of thread.. and always and pleasing assortments. silks in large and dress things. And. realize the These women Each season fabrics finds here the newest of cloths. is at hand. importance of the little things not only the quality and style of fabrics. shields and dozen other seemingly trifling details. to the style book and pat- We mention: Conovers' Naiad Dress Shields Warren 's Featherbone Wilson's Hooks and Eyes £5? Embroidery Foundations Coat Fronts. Shoulder Forms and Bust Forms The Ladies' Home Journal Patterns Reis Bros. Every convenience tern.

however. effect in the lining of a coat (F) It is just as essential to it have a satisfying Silk is or jacket. BELDING BROS. for the average person to wear well. It is naturally the most beautiful of all fabrics for lining purposes. very difficult. 528 Broadway NEW YORK CITY LININGS.Belding's Pure name on the selvage. some of the most reliable silk manufacturers are weaving their names in the selvage of the lining as a guarantee of wear. select silk linings that will By procuring reliable. & CO. as is in the exterior. In order to overcome this difficulty. No fabric will wear as well as a pure dye silk fabric. you should take into consideration the HEXTER'S LINING STORE Dress Makers' Supplies and 1 Tailors' Trimmings " "Everything for your Dress but the Goods 153-155 Arcade : : Euclid Avenue Entrance Page 34 . you are assured of a If your garment does not require a or satin lining. satisfactory lining for your suit. Belding's Pure silk Dye Guaranteed Satin. on account of the practice of adulteration or weighting. cloak or garment. Look for and accept no substitute. Dye Guaranteed Satin the every yard guaranteed to give satisfactory wear.

/A / \ ± ±J.FITTED WAIST LININGS is considered one of the most important inventions of the present time. this affords easy ripping if a fitting is necessary and all the fitting is done at the upper part of the waist in all instances. Every person should buy one of grey percaline fitted to herself. but you may rest assured that the new. the If your dealer cannot supply you. quality and texture of your material and go to a reliable lining store. write us today ana we will supply you direct or give you of a reliable dealer who handles our line. where a fitted lining is not desired the Grean Invisible Net Foundations will be most valuable to you. you will find it easy to cut and fit and make any garment you may desire. for if you do so you will take every chance of making a complete misfit of your garment. Nausea. They are all finished. Page 35 . Pain or Distressed Feeling in the Stomach. \J XV A Digestive Tablets See ?oT 96 special offer For Indigestion. If you are lining a waist that needs a fitted lining. have hooks and eyes in the back or front. which is ready for use without having the trouble of cutting. Always select a pattern exactly your own size don't get one a size too large or a size too small. or if it is a light weight waist. Be careful and purchase the exact size or exactly what your measure is around the waist and you will have a good fitting lining. There is also a Construction Guide. which dressmakers at home. boned. by knowing exactly the — required amount to make the article in question. much time can be saved by using the Grean Fitted Lining. as it eliminates the endless preliminary fittings. for often you can save a yard or so of goods or save yourself from running short of material. and you will need to be informed as to the best. so with this Manual of Sewing and Dress Making and a Pictorial Review Pattern. (G) PATTERNS. but above the boned portions and on the shoulders. Bloating. asking them to show you their newest and most appropriate linings for the purpose which you desire. 327-329 East 34th St. overcomes all obstacles. Unless you are an experienced designer. fitting. Heartburn.. but simple principle which is embodied in the Grean Waist Linings. This & 51 - 00 name Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Company. and all Disagreeable Symptoms arising from a Disordered Stomach. putting on hooks and eyes and finishing. boning. Always get your pattern before buying your goods if possible. Belching of Gas. cutter and fitter never attempt to make even the plainest garment without a pattern. and in white and black Corsica silk. 25 cents per box y (^ jTV " pTTfvn l\. white and grey percaline. To all those who have not tried them it seems impossible. as new linings are constantly coming into fashion. Dyspepsia. The cost of a pattern is so small and the help they give so great that you cannot afford to take chances of wasting your goods without a pattern to guide you. and have it stuffed up for the purposes of having her own figure for fitting 75c and draping in the workroom. the seams are very loosely stitched. illustrating precisely how to put the garment together. finish it. according to sty!e. Sour Risings. They are made in linolawnblack. New York weight. With every Pictorial Review Pattern you will find a Cutting Guide show- ing exactly how to lay on your goods to the best advantage and how to guard against making any mistakes in cutting. or professional have to suffer before they attain the result which you obtain in a ready made Grean Fitted Waist Lining.

widths and quality of materials. & N. Silk. Made "W. Wright 40 Lispenard St. i in highest grade n - to 1 in. finishing or It will binding seams on all materials and for fagotting. 13 widths Pure Linen and wide) usefulness. 4 widths (5-16 in. for the support for the hooks and eyes. Dept. Wm. to }A in. TRADE MARK REGISTERED Once used Always used Beware of Imitations AT ALL DEALERS A is very useful article for piping. Page 36 . Sample reference book free.— (H) It is TAPE.. For the waist you will need it in many instances." Bias Seam Tape INDISPENSABLE IN THE SEWING ROOM Saves half the work making a garment.? White and (*4 colors. E." Bias Seam Tape Are you taking advantage of its Cambric and Lawn. a necessity in the home sewing room. Mf rs . while on your skirts your seam must be bound. almost impossible to make any article of wearing apparel without tape. for the binding around the neck and armholes and many other purposes.. and for this BIASSEAHTAPt It turns itself "W. & Sons Co. NEW YORK. showing colors. F. wide). also in India Linon. &N. not shrink.

instead of facing. and when you have an embroidered edge to your garment as seen in Lesson 79. And then too. tOnOVer LO. At the cents. On the Parisian lingerie.Y. of from perspiration be sure and select a cheaper shields on the market today are anything but satisfactory and the ruined waists showing the stains just below the shields are a result of their use. there is an odor from the rubber of the cheaper shields that is very offensive to a refined woman. Narrow Bias Seam Tape means an additional wear of many months. stores or sample pair on receipt of 25 Tl 1 he f* T* /"* t. It does not deteriorate with age and fall to powder in the dress can be easily and quickly sterilized by immersing Guarantee with Every Pair in boiling water for a few seconds only. you will see this tape neatly put on with the tiniest of slant stitch making a support just below the scallop of the embroidered edge and you will find it most satisfactory to follow their example. & N. Bias Seam Tape.. 101 Franklin St.. Page 37 . On your underwear you will need it to bind over your embroidery ruffles. & N.N.— purpose no tape answers so well as the W. (I) DRESS SHIELDS. f* Manufacturers. which nothing in the world of the kind can rival in daintiness and beauty.I!. protecting your garments shield reliable When dress — so many the The Crowning Attribute of Lovely Woman is Cleanliness NAIAD DRESS SHIELD SUPREME Beauty ! IN Quality ! Cleanliness ! POSSESSES two important and exclusive features. you will find that a support of the W. Added to these the fact that an unreliable shield will not wash and cannot be kept sanitary makes it imperative to procure a good reputable shield that can be relied upon to protect your gown or jacket. which is ready for use and turns itself so the edge is always neat and even. We use in our demonstrations and always recommend the Naiad Dress Shield.

(J) BONING. Girdles and Collars because Stitching bone in on by machine holds the place. collar-bones. for all tailors use only the Warren Feather Boning. girdles collar-sets. first it makers and subject of boning can be quickly disposed of. Linings. insist and leaded dress weights that they are u -ip^M&tt" YtMendif£u Three Oaks. Michigan Page 38 . giving permanent shape To bone a waist Send for requires less than 10 minutes our Instruction Booklet with attachment for machine FREE When buying waist-bones. as best known and most reputable boning on the market. The class dress- is by far the (The Perfect Boning) for Waists. collar-foundations.

containing full description and prices.(K) If DRESS FORMS. you do your own dressmaking or have it done at your home you should by all means provide yourself with a Dress Form. bust and hips with looking glass — — fidelity. Pneumatic Form Company J. For waist. and enables you to study your own form while you work upon your own garments. serves for any number of persons by simply changing the waist lining. you simply inflate it inside your fitted waist lining and before you stands YOU shoulders. not only as a means to secure correct and perfect lines and insure a well fitting garment. Write today for new illustrated booklet' "It's You. skirt and dress making and fitting or for dress repairing at home. reproduce your form. near NEW YORK Nothing so good for skirt And base this little box tlwi S». One Pneu Form. but to save yourself the time and the tediousness of trying on your gowns." Edition H-I. If you are ^eiiftxriii It's You The Wonderful Pneumatic Dress Form Sold In Many First Class Stores Pneu Form is the easiest and handiest dress form the world to manipulate. Pneu Form is mounted on an adjustable standard rod which may be raised or lowered to the exact height desired. 557 Fifth Ave. jjBK fitting and holds draping it all Page 39 . nothing can possibly take the place of Pneu Form. It relieves you of tiresome standing hour after hour for fittings. It is the practical invention of a woman and consists of a nonleakable air chamber made of specially prepared m and well covered rubber cloth.6th St. To make Pneu Form perfectly..

Correct model bust and dress forms at $1. and get the benefit of Notion Dept. and will last a lifetime.50.00. Shears and Tape Measure. With a dress form which reproduces your own lines perfectly you will be able to get a better fitting garment than if it was tried on yourself. waist.00. $5. Hall-Borchert's complete correct Model Adjustable Form is in every way up to date.. $3.. main floor.00. stands without tiring. and the fit of your garment is of far more importance than the quality of the material. $1. Skirt can be adjusted to any style and can be raised or lowered to any desired skirt length.e sewing room as the Sewing Machine. If you sew. can be adjusted at neck. tiresome fittings you change position so often that you are liable to change your lines. for during the tedious. saves time and annoyance and its cost — many times over.making your own gowns there is no way without assistance that you can fit yourself without a Dress Form. a Dress Form of proper size and shape to aid you the form is always ready.00. $2. Pictorial Review Pattcis 10c & 15c Main EAGLE STAMPS FREE with Every Purchase Floor Euclid Page 40 . Dress forms are now considered just as necessary just as indispensable to equipment of t . — — t^ —of trying to see dress fits in the how your back or how —effectively by the use of the skirt hangs with the aid of a looking glass need no longer trouble you if you have a Dress Form of your exact figure. hips.50.00. etc. have a dress form by all means buy it at The May Co.00 and $15. $8. $10.50. these economical prices. Euclid. conforming to any size or shape desired. $12. and YOUR VERY IMAGE in lines and proportions can be reproduced with a Hall-Borchert and Majestic GUARANTEED Perfect Fitting Dress — Form — Every style included Adjustable and Non-Adjustable— of which we show a large variety for every purpose and figure. simply and durably made.

for and own as well. Cleveland Dress Trimming Company ^ V^ 4 6 Euclid Ave. that a harmonious. braids. their All first-class dressmakers desirous of saving their customers' time. bands and special trimmings. tion entirely. Dress Forms made and your dealer will gladly demonstrate them to you. A person with a dull. most inexpensive gown can be made attractive with well selected trimming. whose beauty depend so much upon the graceful lines. are supplied with a dress today has neither the time or the patience to be manner. You should secure a Dress Form before attempting to make any of the up-to-date gowns. 1 COVERED tooR DE R ^ ^ of Second Door East Opera House Page 41 . suitable and desirable effect can be obtained. tedious woman (L) DRESS TRIMMINGS. form. the fitted in the old. When you have a gown or suit that needs trimming. colorless complexion must always study the trimmings and adornment of their costume and some bright color. should usually be chosen.the entire fit of your gown be of ruined. and which is impossible to get when you fit yourself We show two of the most reliable reputable without one of these forms. One can always procure such a variety of silks. but take a sample of your goods and go to a first-class dress trimming establishment and ask to be shown suitable trimmings for your goods and often you will find something new and attractive that in the ordinary way would have escaped your atten- The plainest. laces. if only a dash of it. do not go to the first store you happen to pass and take anything that may be presented to you.

just far enough the garment. Your skirt will never fit smoothly across the back of the hips if you do. 3 — Be careful in picking up your skirt. to get 2 — Cut easily into it on. Stretching these edges means always a full baggy look. P.CHAPTER VII. your placket opening down exactly the right length.— PLACKETS. Do not do it carebut see that your pattern is laid on correctly and pinned securely and that you cut accordingly. (Lesson the eyes sewed on the under facing and the hooks on the facing of the 53). Luncheon 11 to 2 NEW CENTER LUNCH CLUB 813 Prospect Ave. confusing the one who is up valuable space with unnecessary repetitions. both edges of the opening must be faced. that you do not opening of the plackets. careful that every stitch that shows through on the right side be positive 5 and even. 6 We most highly recommend the notch at the right place on — See that the placket comes to the exact your making a placket. upper fold. C. Page 42 7— In . The mark which reveals the inexperienced or careless sewer is more quickly and more likely to be seen in the finish of the placket than in any other part of your garment. SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS In the following lessons we teach you the right way of making each part of a garment and in the succeeding lessons whenever that portion of the article is to be made. Don't have it too long nor yet so short an opening that you immediately tear open the placket. F. The following rules must be observed. your placket binding exactly after your pattern. or in trying of the stretch the edges 4 — Be —Use belt. same general instructions over seeking information and also taking SENSIBLE PLACES TO LUNCH EUCLID CAFETIERE 328 Euclid Ave. reference will be made to the specific lesson treating of that particular subject instead of repeating the and over again. unless perhaps. it be in the making of the buttonholes. Wilson Hook and Eye. Home Cooking No Waiting Prices Reasonable M. Kirby Building MAIN 1565 No Waiters O'Brien Building MAIN 3914 Lesson 63. 1 — Cut lessly. only the best of hooks and eyes. The bottom of the placket must be made secure on the under side.

Ohio Lesson 65. have improved this method by offering a seamless shaped belt thoroughly shrunk.'V K I XI -r Safe Reliable Effective The Wonderful Cleansing. Cleveland. but a peplum is much easier especially to fit. A peplum is used instead of a belt or band or draw string to hold down at the waist and Page 43 . the Grean Co. The object of the bone above the belt is especially useful to unlined or loose linings as some of the material can be draped or attached to boning. 3 With boning above and below the belting to form a pointed bodice into shape. for ordinary belting. For sale by all upon leading druggists or mailed to you receipt of 50 cents. If double. Skirts and dresses at present are made with high belt. No Married Lady Should Be Without This Wonderful Antiseptic SANAR REMEDY 746 Euclid Avenue CO.— BELTS AND BANDS. You can get the Grean Belt in three distinct styles: 1 Having bones as wide as the belting. 2j^ inches wide and fitted by gusset seams and boned Lesson BELTS AND BANDS.A. A trial will convince you of its merits. Turn the top of the folded edge toward the garment and stitch. especially as wide belting shrinks from one to three inches to the ward. cut a straight piece double the width desired.^XA. If the belt or band is faced sew the straight strip and the facing together and proceed the same as directed above. If desired the belt or band can then be entirely stitched around.band may be of one piece be of one piece lined or faced. — — — effect. which is a feature not to be overlooked in wash dresses.^.— YOKE AND PEPLUMS— A yoke is a very particular part of a garment to make. for the draping of waists. 2 With bones ejecting above the belting. Healing and Soothing Antiseptic Ever Used for a Douche for Practically All Female Weakness Sanar can be used without fear of injuring the* most delicate or affected tissues as it does not smart or burn and is highly recommended by many of the most eminent physicians in this country. For this purpose wide belting is used. 64. For the Use of Careful Refined Women A A K^ C* A\ T\T l\ T"} ^ AA.— The belt or doubled or may However. Turn over the under edge and hem down to cover the seam on the inside of the garment.

is a part of the of garment and worn outside of the In is such not instances the in peplum must be exceptionally well any and all fitted or the good. Sew up seams If If either by machine or by hand (Lesson 41). . Ready-to-Wear. across the chest in wrinkles let is too tight if or draws out from under the arm and too loose in the neck and across the chest take up the under the arms. For the seams. but cases a yoke must be most carefully 76). Opposite New Market Page 44 Etc. West 25th. peplum — gather the waist or corset cover if it at the yaist line and put on exactly as were a skirt you were attaching. style many the peplum waist. Rugs. COMF>AMY "Where things are as represented" A GREAT STORE ALWAYS BUSY Prices Always as 5"flK3 Low or Lower Than Elsewhere Dry Goods. of the fashionable waists of today the is However. effect fitted. fit and alter (Lesson 77). All alterations for the neck seam both on the shoulders and must be made from the shoulder seams only. fitting of the peplum all adjustments must be made at the joining is You should be it sure the pattern exactly the right is size about the waist before using. Cut out (Lesson Baste up. yoke — attach collar (Lesson 66 or 68). tight or will Care must be taken that the peplum not made too draw up and wrinkle.keep in in proper position the gathers of the corset cover or waist. be entirely done from the shoulder seams If it The fitting of the yoke must and the small space of the under arm seams.

write us. so the canvas will keep . "Tailor /ff. for the canvas cannot be sewed in the seam with the lining without making it a little bunglesome. Press again. Accept no imitations or substitutes.' v/m "-- / ' ' '\ \ * Collar. . but if you wish to try to them yourself the following instructions should be followed: make Cut out exactly after pattern. on hooks and eyes (Lesson 59).— Cut out (Lesson 76). unless you are experienced in tailoring.— TAILORED COLLARS. W"-"^ made \ \ so. taking care the stitches do not show through. sufficient 1 in collar to hide lining. which if is 3 necessary for the material which you are using. Grean for those who find it difficult to shape an<^ ma ke the under-collar.' /'-'<> /jVA/ < 'C-'/y /. * -. designed by Mr. Attach lining of collar to right side of garment and sew down by machine. in collar supports (Lesson 60). 7.— HIGH entire COLLARS. You will find Orean Tailor Made Coat Collars beautifully shaped and pressed. 9. Press very carefully. Men's coats are never and invariably made in ' \ i \\ \ \ \ i /' ' ' ' 1 ' either black or grey cloth. If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealer's.--V/ • '. i underpart. Sew on trimming. Large stitches and an uneven turn of the material of the collar would ruin the appearance of the most beautiful suit. 10. taking great pains that your stitches do not show any more than you can help and that you have entirely covered the seam of the underpart of the collar and that you have kept an even line. Tailor-Notch < .-JJ^C? Made Coat -^i ^hia is . 2. Collars" a regular //-^^\ A /i'/""" /A *J'f r'/x'f /'. It is not necessary any more to make collars of cloth to match on the ' . Lay right side of goods to right side of lining and baste. The tailored collars are rather difficult to is make 1. Catch the edges of the canvas to the cloth with the catch stitch (see Lesson 11).'/] . Lesson 67. 6. 4 5 6 — Sew —Sew —Sew on all trimmings and ornaments. 5. / / ' . 3. in the A it perfect cut of tailored collars is shown above figure. 8. Sew around the bottom edge and the sides and turn right side out. cutting it out the seam's width from the edges. . Then bring the outside material of collar neatly and smoothly down. so best to buy the under collars ready made. turning under the edge and carefully overcast (see Lesson 6). stitch.in its proper place.' . \f'i 1 / . 4. .' ' \ vl | e_ 13C Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Company New York 327-329 East 34th Street. We will supply you direct or through a reliable dealer and send you a catalogue of other dressmaking helps. being careful to keep the goods and the canvas and the lining always perfectly smooth. Baste in soft pliable French canvas after you have carefully shrunk it. 2—Turn seams around lining should be of cambric — Hem down with slant - Lesson 66.

business.00.. and is stitch at outer gar- edge. 1899 abilities.— TURN DOWN 1 COLLARS. most pliable French canvas and baste it smoothly on the wrong side of the 2 — — Cut out (Lesson 76). 20).YOUR CHARACTER SKETCH SCIENTIFICALLY GIVEN By the Expert and Noted Character Readers of the Acme Your perfectly defined College of Science — Incorporated under the laws of Ohio 1907 social Est. and domestic qualities and your physical condition correctly diagnosed. Ohio kind in The only incorporated College of Our students and satisfied patrons the United States and Europe. Toledo. Price $1. personal The Acme College 1714 of Science its Adams St. material. are found throughout Lesson 68. 6 If collar is to be left separate turn inside edges and neatly stitch or sew down by hand. perfectly Strictly confidential. capacities. using the fine running stitch slant stitch (Lesson (Lesson 5). softest. 4 — If collar to attach of top to ment turn collar stitch. or the Page 46 . only If stiffening is necessary use cambric or the finest. 5 right right side side edge of to of garment and —Turn — collar under side of edge of and hem down neatly to cover seam. 3 — If lined turn right of lining to right of collar. as Your character sketch three above stated and any questions scientifically and answered by mail. America.

lay right side against right side of goods. pliable. and Sloping. and some are not. High. Straight.. 76). 8 Gather top of sleeve between exact notches. 9 Attach where notches of waist designate. The ordinary lap closing is made the same as the lap pocket. — — — — — Lesson 70. . — — of the sleeve or cuff. 4 Hem. page 51. thin. 3 Sew up seams on machine and press.— SHIRT WAIST SLEEVE. 2 Baste 3 4 — — —Turn down evenly and sew on machine. inside the coat. full- and tack again where the ness being most careful to have the notches come exactly together. (Lesson 53). to the heaviest automobile and fur garments. — Cut out. but for garments where a permanent and a good shoulder They add a perfect outline to all shoulders. bottom of 6— Find the 5 1 and 3. 327-329 East 34th St. but much of the difficulty is removed if proper care is taken in observing the directions and in- structions and paying strict at- tention to the 1 notches. Some are padded. where the fullness starts. in edges of other side. or face. except the opening of the sleeve where cuff is attached must be faced back. Baste to cover seam and sew either by hand or on machine. on and if Try al- necessary make (Lesson 77). 7 Baste together cuff and sleeve and sew in securely on machine. Grean has designed special shoulder forms for different weight of garments from the lightest weight silk and taffeta. New York Lesson 69. Many beginners think sleeves are the hardest part of the garment to put together. as to what to use. (Lesson 48). Page 47 . the bottom terations. (Lesson 2— Baste up seams. are basted to canvas and you wA\ save a number of hours of alterations.PATENTED SHOULDER FORMS Shoulder Forms are used not for disfigured shoulders.— SLEEVES. Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. and Construction Guide. They fit is desired. ends. gather sleeve. at the notch where the fullness begins in the sleeve and turning the right of the sleeve to the right of the cuff tack to the notch in the cuff — For No.— Follow instructions (Lesson 69). and fitters must use their judgment. if you will begin to fit by first placing the shoulder form in suchposition as you would like to have your coat appear. not noticeable. 10 Sew in securely on machine. Mr. page 54. 1Take a straight strip of the material. 15c Per Pair Shoulder forms are made in different outlines. See Cutting Guide.

.— LAP CLOSING. cuff. The coat sleeve is made For this purpose the sleeve roll of the Grean Dressmaking Specialties will be found very useful. COAT SLEEVE. 4 5 stitch to than when cover seam. 3. turning the top of strip either with perfectly square corners or in a neat V shape. and seven are omitted. requires a little soft foundation. or you may — Attach sleeve to lining of the cuff and turn back right edge of cuff and If cuff. which is so much in vogue now. and put on edge of pressing board. New York is c Page 48 . cuff. — Cut out exactly after pattern.— — Lesson 71. plain The Band Cuffs are put on the same and CUFF— (Shirt They 1 Waist). CUFF. • — For upper lap sew on in same manner. put damp cloth over and hold down firmly until you have pressed out all the superfluous fullness. Baste inside of the sleeve. —The coat sleeve is much simpler as steps exactly according to instructions of Lesson 69. except your cuffs are either are attached at the bottom of the cuffs waist six Lesson 72.— of Lesson 69. underlap put right side of strip to right side of sleeve 3 — Turn back and stitch by machine on both sides of strips. the bands are cut double width and turned back and hemmed over the seam which joins cuff and sleeve. 2— lined turn right side of lining to right side of goods and stitch sides and bottom of 3 — Turn right side out and stitch again at the very edge of the —Attach as step 6 (Lesson 69). if the material is soft you can press out the material is hard or harsh. 2— For 4 and the stitch. If fill and your dealer cannot supply you.. It is very simple in construction. except that the top of the flat coat sleeve. If more of the fullness than COMBINATION This AR1VI PAD all fitters Combination Arm Pad. are completed before attaching to sleeve. but a few suggestions mill make it plain just as 6 how 7 awkward for the to make them. Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. but instead of facing. designed for the purpose of correcting the general hollow parts between the Arm Hole and the Bust. but outside of seam. 34th St. The latter is much neater and gives a more tailored finish the top piece of the cuff is sewed into the seam. Stitch your goods well over it. TURN BACK Make exactly the same as for shirt made of double length to turn back or instead of at the top. is an article used always by that have filling ever tried it. CUFFS— PLAIN BAND. 327-329 E. write us and we will either your order or direct you to a reliable merchant. —Cut two straight strips. The cuffs belonging to the sleeves are sometimes a little beginner. The 1 lap closing as seen in sleeve No.

back and limbs sometimes with chilly sensations and nausea— will almost invariably meet and control the disease. These investigations. and stitch on the lap. Page 49 . To keep the follows: Zoa-Phora Cold Remedy (Formerly Dr.: Sneezing. etc. Since the tiilly now justly famous ZOA-PHORA LaGRIPPE REMEDY. Back stitch the pouch into the slit of the garment and stitch on the lap. A speedy and safe cure is invaluable. the Price 50c per bottle The Zoa-Phora Cold Remedy and the Zoa-Phora LaGrippe Remedy are for sale at 50c per bottle at alllfirst-class drug stores.—POCKETS. but restores the parts to healthy action. together with the use of certain remedies in the treatment of the disease. letting the needle pass through the entire thickness After a row of stitching has of threads from the bottom mark to the top.— Persons suffering thus are martyrs to every change of weather. except that their outer edge is usually joined in the facing or with the seam of the ruffle. Pengelly was led to formulate force on the weaker parts. Sewing Apron pockets are made in the same way." More suffering comes from neglected colds than from all other causes. brow or cheek. Dr. which treatment. The most trifling exposure renews the attack. it should be fastened as Measure one-eighth inch above and one-eighth below the slit and mark. A NEGLECTED COLD. slit from tearing into the cloth. dullness of hearing and smell. The pocket should be of heavy mercerized goods made into a pouch the desired depth. For partial list see page 96 of this book. and at the same time increasing the severity of the usual symptoms. hut showing its greater From these deductions. Then draw your thread from the top mark in a straight line to the bottom mark and back again on the opposite side of the goods. is very simple to make. sore throat or nostrils. blurred eyes. The patch pocket. Penhad been a careful student of its nature. if taken promptly on the first signs of the disease— known by aching of the head. been made at the bottom and both sides of the lap. The lap pocket as shown in the figure of the coat in Lesson 96.Lesson 73. pain in the temples. Such you have in Zoa-Phora Cold Cure. back stitch the pouch into the slit of the garment. It does not operate on the douche principle merely drying up and washing out the secretions. Repeat this process until you have firmly secured the slit— then bring the thread through and work over and over. is the only one very much in evidence these days. rendering the disease still more difficult to treat. Dr. thus preventing a tedious and perhaps dangerous illness. cough. viz. symptoms. and_ revoice. throat. ZOA-PHORA COLD REMEDY Its improves the sight and hearing- most remarkable storing the impaired of effect is the clearing of the head. Croup and Protection Against Pneumonia An old proverb says: "Never neglect a fresh cold if you would avoid sickness. Hem tops and turn in bottom and both sides and stitch on garment. Pengelly's Sure Shot) FOR Colds. as seen in Lessons 87 and 107. and results. SoreThroat. Zoa-Phora La Grippe Remedy first invasion of the disease known as LaGrippe in this country. tightness at the root of the nose. The lap must be cut on an exact grain of the goods and should be lined with silk or some light material. Cough. headache. convinced the Doctor that LaGrippe was (from whatever inducing cause) a sudden and general congestion attacking more or less the whole system.

Wool goods should be laid right side down and a wet Repeat at ironing sheet placed over it and ironed until it is perfectly dry. or sent postpaid by the manufacturers. garment to hold its shape better. lint and germs.Shino Dust Absorbing Articles Reduces the Labor of Dusting and Polishing One-half. Shino Chemical Handle Duster. Shino Chemical Broom Cover. rinsing in warm water good as new. An electric flatiron is a great advantage to the woman doing her own dressmaking. and in pressing sleeves one should shrink considerable of the fulness that is apt to occur on the inside seam of the arm at the elbow. Always have a good piece of cotton long enough to cover the entire seam.— SPONGING AND SHRINKING. f*. wring out and then press until dry. just as a magnet attracts steel. attract dust. Shino Chemical Floor Polisher. r»l| Ine rioneerMrg. If you are not good at pressing it would be best to baste back your seams in their exact place until you get more accustomed to pressing them in place. always remembering it is almost impossible to put too much good press work on a garment. as the result of a marvelous chemical process. Lesson 74. especially anything with a mesh. Shino Chemical Mitten Duster. for a good presser can straighten out a multitude of little defects in sewing and stitching. Shino Chemical Dust Mop.— PRESSING. Very thin goods should not be sponged Sponging not only helps your or shrunken. but prevents its spotting and wrinkling so much. Ohio CHAPTER VIII. Wool goods should nearly always be sponged and shrunken as should ginghams and linens. Cleveland. Page 50 . to. but your goods will Ginghams and stay fresh and in shape long enough to pay for your trouble. especially in making a wool garment. Much of the beauty of a gown depends upon its pressing. least once. Shino articles. have a hot flat iron conveniently near. but twice is better. When filled makes them The The The The The The The Shino Chemical Dust Cloth. but in case one is not at hand one must always. Ail 4" f* 522 ° Sweeney Ave. while a poor presser can make the most carefully put together garment look badly. all Sold by good dealers. Simplex Mop Handle. In pressing folds always see that the fold is perfectly straight. Dampen and iron till the cloth is perfectly dry then dampen once again and repeat the pressing. This is a slow process. linens should be dipped in water in which has been placed a handful of salt. Lesson 75. with dust.

1 Before beginning see that you have every thing necessary to go ahead. No chance of cutting two backs or two fronts because a careless folder picked up two pieces instead of one. One accompanies every Pictorial Review pattern. we show their patent cutting guide. Pictorial Review Co. and no Mistakes are impossible with this guide before you. (See Department 6). — Page 51 .— CUTTING GUIDE. Central 2259-L For prices on any Sewing Machine or Supplies PHONE or CALL on Expert Repairer will Call and Give Estimate Lesson 76. No chance of wasting an inch of material mistakes.Main 2189 SEWING MACHINE SUPPLIES AND REPAIRS BRYSON CO.. E. No CUTTING GUIDE 4069 FOLD more than you OF 54 INCH MATERIAL WITHOUT Pictorial NAP' their need. 823 Superior N. just as an expert would lay it out in order to cut it from the least possible material. CUTTING. cutting guide a child Review Patterns are error proof and with can lay out and cut a garment as well as an expert. It shows just how to lay out the pattern on the goods correctly and scientifically. By courtesy of the CUTTING GUIDE 4-4/0 SIDE 6ftCK C^ POLO OP 36 INCH MflTERIflL WITH NAP BflO puzzling for hours to find how to lay out the pattern properly. There is absolutely no chance of cutting one piece the wrong way of the goods.

but get your own size otherwise the entire proportion of your garment 2 —Provide yourself style. to 2 P. After Theatre Parties a Specialty Private Dining Rooms Reserved for Dinner Parties Special Attention Given Ladies without Escorts Our Kitchen is Open for Inspection to Patrons from 11:30 A. Do not make the mistake of buying a pattern a size too large or a size too small. and one chosen with due regard for the material to be made up and for the occasion of the wearing of the garment. your is thrown out when you start to make alterations. M. Main-2371-J C— 6417 r £ ar=H r=]G "N \ The Mandarin No.M. to 2 P.with a good paper pattern for your size and suitable to height and individuality. M. Page 52 .M. 622 Prospect Avenue ^n i — i i =ir=i i==i r=i i= ir^=: it=H Cleveland's Finest and Most Elaborate Chinese-American Cafe Shoppers' Novelty FROM 11 Luncheon A.

UnlO LakeWOOd. being most wrinkles either pattern or goods. for preparation. flowered or have a design see that it all runs in the same direction. 11 —Then proceed to baste together as is directed in Lesson 77.. right angle of should rub up. until you have made sure what it is and where it belongs. The nap should always rub down except velvet. then it fold. at prices that are no more and often less than elsewhere Good Values Courtesy Page S3 Progressiveness .-. and fit it perfectly 3 If — — — before cutting into the dress goods. 6 Follow exactly the construction guide for laying on your pattern which you have altered to fit your figure. A RELIABLE STORE The Boston Dry Goods 8813-17 Wade Park Avenue 13592 Euclid Avenue 8601 Detroit Avenue 14712 Detroit Avenue Co. Cleveland . and will save you many possible is — 8— Pin down the pattern. Striped or plaid materials must be perIf the fectly matched so the strips run into the seams on the same angle. See that every piece is on precisely the — your material as designated on the construction guide. 10 Then with tailor's chalk or with a colored cotton thread run a line showing all the marks and perforations of the pattern. goods are 7 When the width of the goods will permit lay the pattern on the double fur or plush. baste it up and make all necessary alterations of the pattern (Lesson 77). no properly laid on cut out with very sharp shears so the goods are not frayed or haggled and under no circumstances fail to cut out every notch indicated on the pattern. 9— When absolutely sure every piece in careful to have it perfectly flat and — errors. Ohio Selling Merchandise that bears the Stamp of Quality. and if your goods have a nap very strict attention must be given that the grain or nap lie in the same direction. This is of vital importance to the success of your garment. which furnished free with every Pictorial Review pattern.your goods are wool or gingham or such as need attention follow directions (see Lesson 74). 5 If the garment has a lining cut the lining out first. and ac- cording to the construction guide. 4 Iron out every piece of your pattern and identify each section and if there is any doubt in your mind compare it with the similar piece on the construction guide.

. work and worry can be avoided by procuring the Grean Fitted Waist Linings and Foundations as it saves all of the labor of cutting basting. beauboned. or through a reliable dealer. The" made with a wide. making of waists. to be guided by the waist and not by the bust. hours of time. Do not attempt to put your garment together without this construction guide. Take Euclid Beach Car to Beach Grove on Lake where all installed Shore Boulevard. New York Lesson 77." "VOTES FOR WOMEN are not so necessary as 44 Greanet »» LOTS FOR Many WOMEN are buying Invisible Home of them Sites in Waist Foundations Are used in making light weight lace or chiffon waists where a t ght-fitting lining would be out of place. which protrude above the belting and are finished with hooks and This is the new eyes. get off at East 152nd St.. specially for the summer or for warm climates. It tifully BEACH GROVE improvements are being and homes erected. Main 5283 Ground Floor 327-329 East 34th Street. etc.— CONSTRUCTION. 2044 Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. and needs to be fitted only by adjusting the seams above the boned portions and on the shoulders. Williamson Bldg. 121. and the upper part of coarse Net which forms just the right kind of a foundation for light waists. putting on the hooks and eyes. or the one accompanying your pattern. show you Always Page 54 . is shaped seamless belt. #100 down and $10 month buys a lot 40x125 for $750. We will supply you direct. constantly before you for it In the — CONSTRUCTION GUIDE 44JQ SLEEVE SECTIONS 'SIDE will BACK C plainly which pieces to join together and just where to join see that the notches correspond and that the seams are taken up on exactly the line shown and that each portion of your goods is in ar- them. write us. ONELLY 120. These are made in Black and White. Cen. FITTING AND ALTERATION. Grean System of Fitting. boning. according to waist measure. 122 If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealers. But if you decide to make your own lining or foundation the following directions must be carefully followed.

Page 55 Sizes 22 to 33 inclusive Waist Measure. r 35c at eyes Don't forget it! The White Rotary means more to you in a sewing way than you can think. Black or White ^. and make See cut 4410. Your Dealer BOTH PHONES 426 Prospect Ave. For Unlined Waists and Dresses USE Grean Shaped Seamless. White Sewing Machine Co.. cut it out. Boned Girdle A SCREW is DRIVER. for it takes time. The greatest of care should be taken in the basting up of the seams of your garment. With a great many Rotary machines in order to remove the Shuttle one has to use a screw driver and take out three screws. for the effect lies in perfect lines and it is impossible to obtain these without good basting.Have rpT?T T TIVT/^'C 1 EEd lULLllMjiS ICECREAM? CONSTRUCTION GUIDE4069 French .. all necessary alterations before cutting into the dress goods. It's with another time saver which herringbone belting hooks and the busy operator will surely appreciate. If the garment has a lining.American cordance with the diagram of your construction guide. Form Made wide of Finished handy tool to have around. but naturally. but with the White you simply a very raise a latch. We shall be glad to demonstrate it at any time. put it together and fit it.«e . you don't care to use it unnecessarily.

Bell South 188-L Off. Monks Osteopathic Physician 302 Lennox Building Treatments by Appoin tmen t Res. Bell Main 3938 .Central Dr. Margaret B.

If the hips are too large. Or if skirt must be enlarged at waist. 32nd Lake Grove Farm St. Care must always be taken alter To for — — — not to take too large a seam across the hips. until you have a perfect fit. Begin at the same point six inches below the waist and decrease the size of the seam. which you are following in making the garment in hand and you cannot fail to have a well fitting. The same general instructions of careful work and perfect fitting and correct alterations apply to the making of all garments. than to alter the back of the skirt any more Fpr flat — the back seams. Baths Massage Madison. Ohio Page 57 . Ohio Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister to Sept. hole. To alter for large abdomen. Electric Light and Shower Rest West Side Branch Franklin and W. and fill in the hollow of the back by sanitary pad. however. and gradually slant to meet the side back seams. Begin six inches below the hip line and gradually take up the seam. Begin six inches below the hip line and decrease the width of the seam. extending each gore an inch at the top. and the same general instructions apply. except the front and the front edges of the side gore seams. and let out gradually the seams the deIncrease also the side sired width. edges of the gores. much of the a hygenic and than absolutely necessary. two inches below the lower line of the Square or Sloping Shoulders. alterations must be made from the shoulder seams and arm hole. If the hips are too small. you will then be ready to cut into your dress goods. that it is better to take up fullness as possible. and its length adjusted from the bottom or six inches below the hips. the necessary width. Begin six inches below the waist line of remembering.If garment wrinkles. being careful to keep a perfect seam line. between shoulders or across chest or at neck or armhole. Skirts must be altered in the seams. well made gown. Begin six inches below the waist line. To take up skirt at waist. carefully but before the outside material is cut into you must know that your pattern and lining are both altered exactly right. 1 Boating Bathing Out of Door Life Turkish. After you have properly cut and fit and altered the lining of the waist and measured and adjusted the pattern of your skirt.To alter for very straight figures. but do not alter any seams to remedy this trouble. at the hip line of the front and side gores. as alter. for if too tight the skirt will wrinkle and draw. — — — and backs. 1 Summer Camp Apply to the 1 Open July 1 to June Systematic Exercise and Recreation Young Women's Christian Association Prospect Avenue and 18th Cleveland. Begin six inches below the waist line and increase seam gradually until the correct size is obtained about the waist. Gymnasium Open Oct. Then follow the specific instructions of the lesson. —Take arm up a seam..

more our duty to ourself as well as to others to be all that is bright and healthy and beautiful. neatness. Wrinkle Eradicators. Scientific beauty culture means bodily and scientific —that to is. one who exhibits cleanliness. These unsightly. the wrinkles erased and the beauty greatly increased by the nightly application of these well known B. but with her If she is inclined to be stout she does not wear plaids individuality and style. skin dry and is — Frank Dowd DENTIST LOOK OLD? Wrinkles are only skin deep.00 boxes. together with an appreciation of the appropriate either with and the beautiful. eyes or buttons ever missing and her shoes are always clean Her skirts always hang evenly and her belt never is out of place or shined. B. & P. (Two Women) 1790 East 68th Street Cleveland. FROWNERS are for the lines between the eyes. including booklet on care of face. handkerchiefs She always has her hair neatly and and neckwear and all her are immaculately clean and no rips. CO. and above all her collar is always in perfect position and neatly fastened fancy pins or with invisible fasteners. care or culture of that beauty which or less. and gowns herself to express an innate sense of refinement and good taste. Ohio CLEVELAND. safe. The well groomed woman's clothes are never loud or conspicuous and the colors always harmonize not only with the occasion for wearing. The skin can be made smooth. leaves no marks. In fact the well groomed woman studies herself. fairy-like figures and a painfully thin woman does not show good teste in wearing stripes and such combinations as are supposed to be worn only by women desiring to reduce the appearance of their size. dressed —her gloves. at birth. telling marks of time. certain. SCIENTIFIC BEAUTY CULTURE. tears or spots are ever visible and no hooks. Both are put up in 25c. If your dealer cannot supply you we will send by mail. 50c and S1. OHIO Page 58 . on receipt of price. postpaid. THE WELL GROOMED WOMAN. Wrinkle Eradicators Simple. or reds or pinks or any of the colors or materials suitable only for slight. It Mother Nature gave the wisest everyone. We cannot be this if our livers are out of order and our complexion anything but what we would wish open pores.— CHAPTER woman The well harmony and appropriateness of groomed becomingly fineries is XII. Seventh Floor. Schofield Bldg. & P. Sold at drug and department stores. dress. which make the face look old and cross are unnecessary— remove them with the Crown and Bridgework a Specialty B. contains no chemicals. & P.

originated. or that the muscles and tissues of the cheeks have become relaxed. W.00. illness and time.00. Bottle. $2. and in consequence there are flabby. on looking sideways into our hand glass. $1. by antiseptic $2. GANESH EASTERN BALM SKIN FOOD $3.50. Bottle.50) lost contour. $2.50.00. are the antithesis of "make-up". Adair exclusively. NEW YORK. Electrolysis is almost painless. a splendid face wash. FACIAL MASSAGE. lined. $3. PARIS Cambo Cambon MIPP" ll*\_I-.50. corners of eyes and over forehead. TIRED EYE TREATMENT restores tired. $1.00. Faithfully used they accomplish the most wonderful results everything that is claimed for them. $5. $6. for tender. closes pores and alleviates skin flabbiness and puffiness under the eyes. can be obtained nowhere else in the world. pendulous — MRS. dry skins. including the Strapping Muscle Treatment. ADAIR'S GANESH TOILET PREPARATIONS AND FACIAL TREATMENTS obtainable for years only at her Salons in New York. withered skins to velvety SUPERFLUOUS HAIR TREATMENT HYGIENIC smoothness. $2. with a line like a big wrinkle. strengthens the skin. either that a gross ''double-chin" is beginning to form. discolored eyes to proper smoothness and fulness.00) which cures deep lines between brows. fills lows and removes wrinkles.00. GANESH DIABLE SKIN TONIC. which with maturer years will surely become a hard line between it and our original chin. holGANESH EASTERN MUSCLE OIL braces sagging muscles.50. LONDON 92 21 West 38th Street.00.unhealthy a state of neglect that makes the lines wrought by worries. which removes double chin and and the restores GANESH FOREHEAD STRAP ($4. owned and patented by Mrs. 75c. to become deeper day by day.50. sparkling eyes and a youthful contour. $5. Rue Chauvain REGISTERED TRADE MARK Page 59 . Sometime we may be rudely awakened by finding. 75c. restores lined. — MAIL ORDERS FILLED for all preparations and appliances on receipt of cheque. Paris and Nice. $5. THIS PHOTO PORTRAYS THE GANESH CHIN STRAP ($5.00. These Imported Appliances. London. ph one G reeley 1 3475 Bond New St. as they reach the CAUSE of all blemishes and re-establish by natural means a healthy complexion. WRITE FOR VALUABLE BOOK containing list of all GANESH Preparations and Treatments and much beauty information and advice.

altogether altering the shape of the face and adding years to our age. taught. exposed to heat and cold. this even support of the muscles and skin is withdrawn. Stone Prop. 0. In youth the soft. and Mine.. New York. Adair's methods of reducing superfluous flesh. "How to Retain and Restore Youthful Beauty of Face and Form. be one of them and Let Me Give You a Sample lar ELLSWORTH COLLEGE 514 Permanent Bldg. But when. and loses its beauty of coloring. sole • Ellsworth. FULTON Manicuring and Chiropody Room 604 Standard Bldg. teachers and the DeLong's Cucumber and Almond Massage Cream Used and recommended by Cleveland's best people." which you may have for the asking by mail or in person at the parlors of Mrs. Toledo. DeLONG SKALLA Dermatologist and Chiropodist Page 60 . raises and gives back the youthful shape and appearance to the face. off. Cleveland Recommended by N.KJ y- ' _• Creme de Luxe a delightful preparation to use in Does not wear place of powder. Your skin is not a dead thing to be left alone it is a sensative part of you. Huron Bldg. scientific and constant care.. for into place. double chin and restoring a youthful contour. effective treatment called the Ganesh Strapping Muscle Treatment. No woman need lose the shape of her features nor the grace of her figure if she practices the Ganesh Exercises and Treatment. originators. or any other cause.. but nothing has ever met with anything like the instant and entire success of the wonderful. of eliminating deep frown lines. 6U0 Madison Ave. Beckman Bldg. Our everyare graduates where. 0. and filling out hollows. There have been many treatments for the difficulties and for the cure of double chins. to which so many women owe their rejuvenated appearance. removing lines. Creme de Luxe 505 Hours S a. R.m. Buffalo. hollows are formed in cheeks and temples.OH ^ > 1VIY FOOT . 0. Cleveland. it needs skillful. yellow or blood-shot eyes are marvelously efficacious. Stone's Shoe Store Send 12 cents sale all for sample. Personal instructions by D. For stores. in 2462 -J bags. which are so clearly and thoroughly explained in the interesting and instructive book. Mrs. MAUD 716 Permanent Bldg. Adair at 21 West 38th them — St. rounded contour is maintained in all its attractiveness by the support afforded by the fat beneath it to the skin that lies smoothly over it like unwrinkled satin. it restores tone to the flabby muscles. Makes skin soft and velvety. Call owners of Ellsworth System. Ellsworth All Facial of College branches beauty science V. Dr. of treating tired. N. from illness. hanging on either side of the chin. 323 Euclid Ave. MRS. absorption of some of this fat takes place. Y. 1V1<i to 6 p. is All foot troublespermanently relieved by scientific corrections under supervision of a surgeon.m. and the skin falls into lines and furrows. adverse climates.

15 — Dinner Gowns. 16— House Gowns. Belts. Mamma" 4 5 11 14 19— Bath Robe. 23 — Hair Dress. 24— Handkerchiefs. must be considered case an incidental cost in you to are planning all on just so much at A few drops on your dustcloth does the work. Ties. 21 — Aprons. pianos. — Evening Gowns. 27 — Coats. — Night Gowns. when the subject of renewing their wardrobe presents itself. 9 — Corsets. 22— Millinery. Standard Polish for 35 years. 0. 17 — Negligee Gowns. 18— Kimona. 1 2 3 "Never Mind. Added too to these are the numberless trifles to tains a varnish dries instantly. — numerous mention. 10— Petticoats. & CO. Often one does not know when to begin. — Union Suits. Below we give a list which will help you in planning and serve to remind you of the essentials of every woman's complete wardrobe. 8 — Brassieres. 30— Scarf. hardwood finish and hard- Polishes and wood floors. 7 — Drawers. Cleveland. 12— Shoes. —Furs. and least 10 per cent of your entire appropriation for incidental be reserved expend- BAIRD BROS.THE WARDROBE. —Sanitary Skirt Protector. Conno acid or injurious ingredients. 28—Jewelry. Page 61 . —Hosiery. especially if one is preparing their clothes in advance for the season or perhaps arranging for a trip or a visit or for some occasion where a rather complete outfit is needed. Large size bottle 25c at your dealers' money should itures supply your needs. 26 Monarch Polish Not will fix it 29—Veils. 6— Sanitary Belt. — Corset Covers. 20— Housekeeping Gowns. 25 — Collars. 13 — Traveling or Street Gowns. accessories. but in all of which restores the original brilliancy and lustre to furniture. — Chemises.

gown will (C) SANITARY BELTS. Order large enough to drop well down over hips. — We A Standard Pattern with our improved "Never-Slip Clasp" ( Patent Applied For ) Requires No Safety Pin Easily Adjusted in sizes Absolutely Secure Made 22 ins. that the choice and judgement of the most experienced corsetiere should be consulted. Ladies Improved Sanitary Belt and we have found no better on the market.&N. F Manufacturers For Comfort 40 Lispenard St. and while supporting the bust. If sizes 22 inches to 48 inches inclusive. but without the torture.(A) CORSETS.. the same as with any ordinary corset. & N. there are satisfactory. Wright & Sons Co. and that is a are most unwill unless properly constructed not stay clasped or will not hold the napkins in place. as it does not constrict the waist and is designed and cut on the idea of supporting the abdomen. but a well made can not only be worn with comfort but can be easily adjusted and will prove secure. carefully made garment look its best. Dept. Sizes of Belts are actual waist measure. for the fit of your gown carriage. E. send us his name and 25c for sample belt. N. of fastening and your outfit not complete without a belt of this have carefully examined the W. neither will the most expensive. like many other corsets do. many makeshifts on they are the market. We at all times recommend the Berthe May "Hygie" corset as we find its hygienic and physical advantages cannot be disputed. your entire wardrobe that should be given more There is no the grace of your careful attention than your corsets. you are unable to procure it from your dealer. At All Dealers "W. your article in — not fit perfectly. are but few more ruinous habits than the use of safety pins and is There improvised methods character. it allows entire freedom and full expansion to the chest. for unless your corset fits your individual figure. heart In other words it will allow one to dress according to the and stomach. B. inclusive. instead of pressing it down. So much depends upon this one point. latest styles. POSTPAID. Webbing at Front and Back Wm." High Grade Elastic Ladies' Improved Sanitary Side. lungs. to 48 ins. in fact the foundation of your entire appearance to say nothing of your health and comfort lies in the well fitting corset. New York City Page 62 . that There is one small as article no woman should be they without but they either belt Sanitary Belt.

sanitary skirt protector a necessity to A AMA PSmmfW^ An article every is *^&™ woman will of welcome market THERE now on the the needa ready-to-wear which you wardrobe acce:sory. If you get a good one you can wash unless a sure protection is afforded. Page 63 . nurss people it is almost indispensable. for one is never safe at certain times to wear their gowns and dainty underwear.(C) SKIRT PROTECTORS.s that it cannot be ex elled for com ort. O. nmde of a high grade white rubber muslin. THE AMA Sanitary Skirt Protector Patented Sept. nize trademark before A1VIA CO.00 each qualities. The Ama Sanitary Skirt Protector is an article especially desirable for the present dress. $1. have doubtless often realized. Always recogour United States. 117 purchasing. For misses and business ladies in mode summer of ladies' attire or evening dress. but have never before been able to secure in an ideal form. We recommend the skirt protector as one that will give entire satisfaction. tourists. made with lace net yoke affording perfect ventilation and can be readily laundered. 22nd. It is absolutely waterproof. women. as flexible as fine linen. and press it and always have it in perfect condition.00 and $2. The Ama Sanitary Skirt Protector has so many c salient featur. is every woman's wardrobe. less Beware of worthimitations. 1908 This garment and This article is fully protected Sanitary Skirt protector will be mailed to any address in the receipt of price the Upon Ama by patent. CLARENCE BUILDING CLEVELAND. Call and let us demonstrate this article to you. fit and durability. and theatrical The excellent material used guarantees its wearing is made in medium large size selling at Price 50c. odorless.

ARBORj TEA SHOP Earner flat ^oppe where 6541 Euclid Avenue Exclusive Models in Dress and Tailored Hats.. practical. The night gown. should wear a waist supporter in order that a good about the waist can always be relied upon. hat for business. Dept. 17th St. style and setting of one's face and features. corset covers and drawers should be of dainty muslin or fine linen. sent postpaid. but great care should be used that the selection be one that exhibits taste. both French and Domestic. chemise. 1/ not at dealers. elastic sides. when wearing a waist that is separate from the skirt. Simple. effect There is no better (F) LINGERIE. Price 15 Cents. graceiul. Even though the edging and insertion be of fine lace or embroidery it will greatly add to the beauty of the garment to have at least a small floral design of hand work. at back." take double hold without undue pressure. with so much pleasure at one's leisure time if handy with the needle. feathers and flowers. New York Page 64 . Many make these garments entirely by hand. on receipt of price. Pat'ee &Mfr. but for church and theatre wear one A may branch more elaborate and trimmed effects and can satisfy and decoration of ribbons. Little rubber The "LOOP-HOLD" Shirtwaist BELT corrects a common fault in dress. held in by patented " loop. great improvement over old style belts. 15 E. refinement and a respect for the shape. but the majority of women Waist Cannot Be Displaced pyramid "Units" grip and keep waist from riding up. off into the their eye as to color (E) SHIRT WAIST SUPPORTERS. S. Self-acting buckle stays put. CORNER SUPERIOR AND 105TH THE WARNER HAT SHOPPE considers it possible for every woman to have an Individual Style A Gift all Shop and Tea Room can be found Novelties in Art and Needle Work (D) MILLINERY. gown as the waist There is nothing that ruins the entire appearance of a out of place above the belt line or perhaps showing a dividing line between the skirt band and the waist line. the street or traveling should be selected of one of the soft plain shapes with simple trimming. No sharp points to hurt fingers. Metal parts cannot rust. and if possible hand embroidered in any of the beautiful designs which can so easily be procured and done.. Price 15 Cents at Department Stores AGENTS WANTED DAVID BASCH. skirt supporter on the market than is shown below. Every careful dresser.

be a cloth a rain-proof fabric of "Cravenette" proof is a process which The process permeates every fibre renders a cloth or garment water-proof. rendering the cloth permanently rain-proof, and rain will then of the yarns, You can have your coat, suit, wrap, or neither wet nor spot the garment. motoring garments made from the Priestley Cravenette Cloths, and you will If you are obliged to be out in all kinds of find your needs perfectly met. weather, rain or shine, you should by all means have a "Cravenette" rain-coat. We specify "Cravenette," because a genuine Cravenette-proof coat contains no rubber, is porous to air, yet rain-proof and has not the disagreeable odor common to most raincoats, and too, there is not the stiffness of the material, which renders many of the rain coats so undesirable and unattractive. The Cravenette-proof process leaves the cloth just as supple as before and every The main point to bear in fibre of the yarns is made thoroughly rain-proof. mind is to get a rain-coat that is strictly hygienic, keeping the dampness out without preventing ventilation. However, if you are only out in an occasional sprinkle or shower, a rain-coat is unnecessary, but you should have a street

(G) RAINCOATS AND people imagine Cravenette some sort but such is not the case.



or business or traveling suit



any of the Priestley cloths of serviceable

and wearable mohair suitings, serge, chevoit, whipcord, etta, which you can get "Cravenette" proof.




to Tell

This circular

registered trademark

Silk y^^y^pti^^fiyci^ Labe


stamped on the inside and a sewed at the collar or elsewhere.

None Genuine Without Them
The )££L~,.

applied to many kinds of cloth suitable for outer garchildren's men's, women's and ments in light, medium and heavy weights for seasons of the year, and are for wear in rain or shine.

" Rain Will Neither

Wet Nor Spot Them."

They con t ain no Rubber, have no

disagreeable odor; will not overheat or cause perspiration.

For sale by leading dealers in Men's, Women's and Children's Clothing.

t^Q^/ft2^t§#., Lt4
Bradford, England

Hoboken, New Jersey

postal to the

Bradford, England

New York

office of

B. Priestley


Co., 100 Fifth Avenue, will bring interesting booklet.



is all

right in


place, but



annoyance, and more than that, when it gets on goods that you are anxious to keep clean. The oil cup on the White Rotary prevents all trouble of the kind. It's a trifle, but

by attention to the little things that make the White Rotary the very best machine you can buy. Our terms will surprise you by their
it is


White Sewing Machine Go.
426 Prospect Ave.


Lesson 78.— CORSET







nainsook, muslin, sheer lawn, linen, or any thin fine material.
tucks (Lesson 54). Join seams with French seam (Lesson 47).


Hem Hem


peplem and


Gather at waist line son 64). Finish neck and armholes with embroidery scallops (Lesson 22), or face on right side with very fine embroidery. See Lesson 53.) Embroider any desired design (Lessons 19-25 inclusive). Make eyelets and run in ribbon to hold in fullness (Lesson 25). Close with small buttons and buttonholes (Lessons 29-30).

(Lesson 65). and make band of goods or of beading for belt (Les-



Cut out (Lesson


Join with either plain or French seams.

(See Lessons 41 and 47.)

Face both sides of opening (Lesson Face around top for belt (Lesson
Put on




Make buttonholes (Lesson 27). Sew on buttons (Lesson 30).

Page 66

have not the time to put so much personal labor on their wardrobe, but the character of a woman is more easily discerned by the daintiness, prettiness and completeness of her lingerie, than by the beauty or elaborateness of her best gowns.
In France, a bride has never less than 12 pieces of each article of underwear beautifully done by hand work and exhibited with great pride to all her

buying and making these garments that your lingerie with care will last for many years to come, and you can afford to put more time and expense on them than on your outside garments that change style, color and design to suit every whim and caprice of fashion.



Lesson 80.— CHEMISE. Procure a good chemise pattern and make exactly as instructed in (Lesson 79), on the making of night gowns.
Lesson 81.— NIGHT GOWN. Cut out (Lesson 76). Join with dainty French seam (Lesson Embroider neck and edge of sleeves (Lesson 22), or fact on the right side with any desired trimming of embroidery or lace fine (Lesson 53). Embroider desired design. (See Lessons 19 to 25 inclusive).


Make eyelets (Lesson 25) neck, and draw about through ribbon to adjust




Lesson 82.— COMBINATION UNDERGARMENTS. Cut out (Lesson 76). Fit carefully (Lesson 77). Join all seams with French seams (Lesson 47). Set in yoke (Lesson 65). Put on beading and edging (Lesson 57). Sew on ruffle (Lesson 56). If for open drawers face both sides of opening (Lesson 53). Close with small buttons and buttonholes (Lesson


Page 67

Lesson 83. The material can be of large figured silk. Face top (Lesson 53). heatherbloom or even a good quality of sateen is preferable. and where the fullness commences make a slit on each side and insert a tape. Make buttonholes (Lesson 29). for it is the dainty feminine expression of lingerie and negligee garments that expresses the refined womanly tastes and will prove of pleasure to you so long as they last. but have them made the proper length to wear with your For your sireet. Hem (Lesson 48). Have plenty of white skirts plain or elaborate to match your other lingerie of your outfit. The slit should be carefully worked with the button hole stitch (Lesson 24). and means will permit. dimities. soft flannels or in fact almost any pretty Have your negligee gowns as attractive as your skill fabric may be used. Page 68 . business and traveling gowns. East 135 1738 East 55th Street Cut out (Lesson 76). Sew on buttons (Lesson 30). Join ruffle (Lesson 56). silk. house and evening gowns. GUI Chapel in Connection Jay P. lawns. Join seams (Lesson 41). drawing it through the slit on the opposite side. Parrish Funeral Director Bell Phone. Stitch the facing down securely. QBE Lesson 84. Face upper edge of the garment (see Lesson 53). challie.— SKIRTS AND UNDERWEAR WITHOUT PLACKET. fleece lined goods. DRESSING SACQUES AND KIMONAS.— PETTICOATS.


not go to the



Kimonas and Art Laces"
Call At
before buying ?

and Save

150 The Arcade
See Our Beautiful Designs and Get Our Low Prices

Lesson 85.— DRESSING
Cut out (Lesson


Lay Sew

pleat in back.



bottom (Lesson

Gather on


Face collar (Lesson

elbow and shirr around

waist (Lesson 55), and finish with dainty
of bright ribbon at the waist.



Lesson 86.— KIM ON A.

Cut out (Lesson




seams on machine.


bottom of garment (Lesson

Make yoke and attach (Lesson 65). Make sleeves and put in (Lesson



Face edges and sleeves (Lesson



facing should be of satin or



ing shade of the same or a lighter material.

-page 4-

overlook the


scientific drugless treatment


Page 69

Lesson 87.—APRONS.

Aprons are the simplest of all garments to make, No. 3857 is especially easy to make. Cut out goods (Lesson 76). Face all edges (Lesson 53). Make pocket (Lesson 73)." Make one buttonhole and sew on button (Lessons 29-30).

No. 3180 requires a little more time and effort. Cut out (Lesson 76). If embroidery for ruffle, bib and pockets is not used hem ruffle (Lesson 48). Face bib and pockets (Lesson

Put on ruffle (Lesson 56). Put on pockets (Lesson 73). Gather and join bib to skirt of

Put on band (Lesson 64).


Is This the

Condition of

Your Nerves?

Is that the condition of your nerves? If so, your system is just like the violin shown above; utterly unable to perform the work for which it was intended. Until there is an improvement in these conditions, there is no chance for harmonious action between the various organs of the body. The office of the nervous system is to control and direct the vital forces. If the nerves are not strong, healthy and in proper tone they cannot do this work any more than can the violin give forth sweet and melodious music when "all unstrung."

You Do Not Need



a Nerve STIMULANT, But a NERVE Food. a Nerve Food and Strength Builder.

At the same prepared especially to build up and strengthen the nervous system. time it purifies the blood and regulates the circulation, so that the nerve centers may distribute the vital forces to the organs in need. If you'are only slightly nervous, you ought to take ZOA-PHORA at once and thus thwart the onward march of the disease. If your nerves are already in such a shattered condition that they are threatened with nervous prostration, ZOA-PHORA will give you relief and strengthen your nervous system.

Read Page

95 for the Special



Page 70

Lesson 88.— LINGERIE WAIST. Choose your pattern and
follow the instructions of






making by

selecting the

desired design and effect and mak-

ing according to
Sleeves, Lesson 69 or 70.
Collars, Lessons 66, 67 and 68. Yoke, Lesson 65. Trimmings and Finish, Lessons 54, 57, 58 and 62. If a Lining is desired make according to Lessons 76 and 77.


Lesson 89.— HOUSE KEEPING GOWNS. Your house keeping gowns should be of percale or gingham or some wash goods so that at all times you can be immaculately clean. Have them made plain and simple so they can be easily gotten into and also have your aprons large, and of a material that washes neatly. Use instructions (Lesson 76), taking steps according to numbers; X-l, X-5, X-7, X-8, X-9, X-15. Then put on facing about sleeves, neck and down front and belt (Lesson 53). Now hem skirt (Lesson 48). Sew on buttons and make buttonholes (Lessons


Easy to Pay the Rosenblum Way"

For Man,
or Child



pays the bill

We Make Good Unsatisfactory Purchases We Never Misrepresent

M. Rosenblum

Credit Clothing Co.

2014 Ontario St. Cor.^hamplain
Mr. Rosenblum Himself



do not handle any premiums nor give trading stamps (the customer. Skhts. Upstairs Lesson 90. etc. and attach or put on neck band (Lesson 64). Hundreds of are added to our already large patronage every is There We We is a Reason — High Rent District. — Gather at waist 5 7 line in and attach a belt or stitch bias band to hold gathers secure. Jewelry. 2 Join with plain seams (Lesson 41). — — Make buttonholes and sew on buttons (Lesson 29-30). front and back. and stitch on both sides of pleat. 3 Fit and make any necessary alterations (Lesson 77). pays for both at all stores where they give them). 6—Make sleeves and attach (Lesson 70). CLEVELAND CREDIT CLOTHING Over Atlantic CO. Coats. growing by leaps and bounds.There Must Be a Reason Why our business new customers month. By following these instructions carefully and faithfully. you cannot fail to develop your Page 72 . We do not have any collectors. 9 Lesson it 91. Dresses. Our operating expenses are low. Waists.— SHIRT WAIST. — GOWNS. turning to the specific lesson as indicated. All Goods Sold on $1. —We will give directions for making gown 4533 as contains nearly every element and requires the explanation of nearly all points of dressmaking. of course. — — — — — — Hem the underside of the front closing. & Pacific Tea Company's Store 2165 Ontario Street. Suits.—A shirt waist is something it seems no one has too many of they are so useful and so necessary for so many occasions and can be constructed of such a variety of fabrics and in such a wide range of styles.00 a Week Payments Complete furnishers — Hats. The quality of our merchandise is the best and our guarantee of absolute satisare not in the faction is given with every sale. 4 Form box pleat in right front. 1 Cut (Lesson 76). 8 Make collar (Lesson 66). and leave collar loose. Shoes.

Ptawi 3fttBtrufitum .

They make the so-called "fiction-magazine" unnecessary." It covers every range of woman's activity completely. plain. are written by experts and their information is practical and daily useful. home decoration. a necessity in every home. You had better subscribe now and find out about our magazine and our patterns. She is very properly interested in the schools which her children shall attend. materia! Any ornamentation suitable to the occasion to be worn may be used. New York London Headquarters: Louis Berlin San Francisco Vienna St. find that she considers "home" to be the city. special articles in PICTORIAL are on subjects of interest to women.. marketing.16 17 — Face bottom of skirt (Lesson —Sew on hooks and eyes (Lesson 53). etc. The May Co. The up-to-date American housewife is a thinking woman. and in many other subjects which are of vital importance to her daily living. Charming Lingerie Frocks Smart Street Toilettes Afternoon Dresses in Foulards and Taffetas New and Fascinating Evening Gowns An Alluring Assortment of Lace Blouses in the New Casaque and Peplum Styles The PICTORIAL REVIEW is not wholly a fashion magazine although it carries more and better styles than any fashion magazine published. She is looking for more information constantly and PICTORIAL furnishes that knowledge. and in harmony with the an evening gown the upper portion of both lining and material of the waist can be cut away. its ideas will save much more than the cost of the magazine for a year. For To be Dressed Styles in the Latest Fashion Select Your from the Season's Number The PICTORIAL REVIEW FASHION BOOK For sale by The May Costs only 5c When Purchased with a 15c pattern For sale by Co. REVIEW The Pictorial Chicago Paris Review Company St. 39th NEW YORK Page 74 . If you wish to please your husband's palate just give him some of the good. believe that the real American woman does not consider "home" to be just the house in which she lives. In short. housekeeping. tasty dishes described in PICTORIAL REVIEW'S COOKING DEPARTMENT. in the politics which make taxes high and her rent accordingly higher. The fiction stories in PICTORIAL RE- VIEW The are equal to the very best you can get anywhere. 222-224-226 W. making as low or as high cut gown as desired. With these departments before you a magazine devoted wholly to housekeeping is a needless extravagance. PICTORIAL REVIEW is "The Magazine for Women. It is Its suggestions. 59). in life insurance which cares for her REVIEW We We when the bread-winner is suddenly taken away. The household departments in PICTORIAL REVIEW. departments on cooking.. state and nation in which she lives.

when the same amount of money expended in two or three simple evening frocks would have constantly served to the pleasure and needs. and a number of cheap inappropriate useless garments purchased when one good garment of a more suitable nature would have been a better investment. Select carefully your materials with a view of perfect keeping with social demands and associates.Lesson 92. as often too elegant evening gowns lie your unused and unenjoyed. and the panel is used instead of the — GOWN — all-over flounce. Every wardrobe should hold as many evening gowns as the individual will have need of. . Phones 4598 Central 1379-W . For making see Lesson 91. 'Make exactly according to Lesson 91. Lesson 93. but for younger women prettiness and daintiness and attractiveness should be the aim rather than richness.—EVENING AND DINNER GOWNS. elegance or elaborateness. for a season 30. or as magnificent as her station in life demands. except the breteile is crossed in the front instead of the back. and they should be as simple. yet sometimes the other extreme is met. Main .

Boarding Home Transient Accommodations Employment Bureau Travelers' Aid .

must have more in it than an ordinary piece of canvas without preliminary preparations of careful sponging and shrinking. from the lightest silks to the heaviest automobile garments. You requirements.. you will find a Grean patented Shoulder form.Made' ' Coat Front Foundation By examining the drawing alongside which shows the inside view of the Grean Tailor-Made Coat Front Foundation. but well tailored and firm enough to support and retain shape permanently. a wide button hole stay runs the whole length of the coat. from the short Eton coat to a 32 inch length coat so much worn now. There are several methods of making jackets and coats. The foundation for the front of your coat or jacket is very important. If your dealer cannot supply you write us immediately. will find coat. and at the top. The present styles demand soft coat fronts. These tailor-made coat front foundations are made in different weights and lengths. themself. They are made of the best material appropriate for this purpose and are thoroughly sponged and shrunk. it will be a good lesson and example to study Grean ready made and tailor- made make coat front foundation.— CLOAKS AND SUIT JACKETS. but you can detect cheap worthless coat front foundations by their stiffness. but the difference Some tailors sew cloth and canvas tolies chiefly in preparing the fronts. They are all very soft and pliable. to will make find a Those who are unable good tailor made front Grean's Tailor Made Coat for Front Foundations to be almost a necessity. They in are a made variety upsuit to-date styles to different coats. them in medium weight variety to suit tailor suit.00 GREAN SHOULDER FORM & PAD CO. 327-329 E. 50c to $1.. 34th St. which can be purchased for much less than one can Accept no imitations or substitutes. New York Page 77 . are protected with a white linen stay. but it is also part of a pattern by which one can be safely guided. A good sized arm-pad surrounding. "Tailor. Tailor-Made Coat Fronts Foundations are distinguished by their beautiful shaping and tailoring and every season the shapes change according to the prevailing To those who have found difficulty in making coat fronts for themfashions. all heavy winter selves. which the cloth is placed. you will notice that it is It is not only a foundation over a complete coat front. lightweight silk or velvet Grean suits and fur garments. for a tailormade coat or jacket. in and renders it unfit to be used your garment. gether and some tailors use fronts of canvas prepared separately to fit the outside. but a tailored made coat front.Lesson 96. in the shoulder. which is usually nothing but glue. made of white French felt and edges of the best herringbone hair-cloth used for center stiffening.

out and attach with very small slant stitches (Lesson 12 cover the seam. made of Hair-Cloth. 3). NEW YORK — Baste ready in these bust forms of hair cloth or soft canvas. 2 5). and press (Lesson 75). — 8 Baste goods over lining and try on and fit perfectly (Lesson 77). 7 Join seams of lining. We will supply you direct or through a reliable used in garments where a coat front of canvas has been already used but has is extensively altering dealer and send you a catalogue of other dressmaking helps. strict attention to the By paying Page 78 . 10 11 — — — Make and put pocket — Put in lining right side in 5). above directions you will be able to work out a well fitting. You can purchase made at any of our advertisers carrying Grean dressmaking supplies. beautifully shaped and used in either short coats or long coats where only bust reinforcing is necessary and If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealer's. for much of the beauty of the coat or cloak depends upon this part. There is 4 — Lay on goods (Lesson 76— to — Cut out lining (Lesson 76— 3 — Baste up lining seams (Lesson — Fit and make necessary alterations (Lesson —'Cut outside material (Lesson 76—6-11). 14 — Make sleeves (Lesson 72). 9 When an exact fit has been obtained detach from lining.no more particular work in dressmaking than the proper tailoring of a jacket or coat and you should never attempt to make one of these garments in a hurry. 16—The trimmings can then be sewed on. press and sew turning in the lining to 13 — Make collar and attach (Lesson 67). sew up seams in desired manner (Lesson 41).. —Make buttons and buttonholes (Lessons 29 and 30). and press seams open. (Lesson 73). all 77). 327-329 East 34th St. 35 to 50c 50c lost its original shape. 5 Short Coat-Fronts Short Coat Front. nicely finished garment and the saving of doing this work yourself will allow you to put extra money into a better grade of material than otherwise you could choose or you can practically buy the goods for another suit. 1 1 5). IS — Again press the entire garment. GREAN SHOULDER FORM & PAD 6 CO. in. No work or stitches should be left visible on the lining. write us. in any style or manner desired.

Read on the last page of this book your druggist' special offer to you of a free ten days' treatment of these Cones. MICHIGAN. They allay Inflammation and heal the irri71. They contain Nerve Tonics ANTISEPTIC which are absorbed into the Blood and VITALIZING COHES Give Vitality to the Whole System. as not only the appearance. but in in- stances the clothing must be loose and comfortable and both the dress and underwear should be Special attento supported tion from the shoulders. Page 79 . MATERNITY OUTFIT. P^t^£L.. 50 CENTS. The Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones have in the past years permanently relieved thousands upon thousands of women and the price of a month's treatment for 50 cents makes them within the reach of all. CHAPTER XIII. a tated parts.ZOA-PHORA Antiseptic Vitalizing CONES Are for local treatment and are antiseptic in their action on Diseased Tis- sue and Unhealthy Conditions. ZOA-PHORA CO. but the comfort of the individual to a large extent depends upon these two things. Beware of dangerous imitations that contain mineral and poisons and which have'no established fifty reputation. Ten days' treatment will convince you that no matter how serious your condition a positive relief Sample free upon request. The Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing KALAMAZOO. L able and effective. has been found. must be given the matter of corsets and the lining of the gowns. reliPRICE. ^6. Cones are a female suppository. safe. Proprietors. The herself outfit an expectant mother prepares for entirely depends upon what her duties all require of her during this period.

and upon examination and investigation we find that the "Lucine" corset is so constructed that it can be worn as early as wanted. which can be opened successively when more room is needed. thanks to its exclusive and It procures an absolute simple system of gradual enlargement. 10 E.. thus affording the comfort and safety so necessary in a weakened condition of the abdomen. sent under plain envelope. abdominal support at all times. expectant mother should go without a corset. and allows the mother to dress as usual. BERTHE MAY. and it can be reduced to a normal size and worn as long as desired after the child is born.. as her own health and that of her child would be materially injured by such a course. Orders by mail filled with absolute satisfaction because of my perfect yet simple measurement system. 46th St. and yet with its own particular advantages. 15 Which will b.00 Write for free booklet No. Physicians use it in their own families aud prescribe it to their patients. Every woman should have this corset in her wardrobe. and to attend to her customary vocation during the whole term of her pregnancy. Prices from $5. A maternity corset must combine as an abdominal support and a corset in fact it must be a protection to the abdominal walls against too great relaxation and yet must serve to give grace to the figure and to make it possible for her to go about and be active during the entire period. to deport herself with the greatest comfort. to be used whenever needed. through a system of inside plaits of the material. as it can be worn at any time. together with photographic reproductions and full information. It is manufactured to be an absolute safeguard against all accidents for the mother as well as for the child. but she should never wear the ordinary style and cut. The most celebrated maternity corset that has come to our notice is the Berthe May "Lucine" corset. the same as an ordinary corset. enables women to dress as usual. to preserve a normal appearance. No — Page 80 . to preserve a normal appearance and to attend to their every -day vocations. The Lucine corset can be made gradually larger when wanted.BERTHE MAY'S Maternity Corset The only corset of this kind made for its own purpose. Mfr. New York (98)— MATERNITY CORSETS. as well as during the maternity period. in a normal condition.00 to $18. on account of the healthy support which it gives both the abdomen and to the back.

Sample sent FREE upon request. but it is seamed and faced and finished the same as given in the regular lesson on It should have a good sized pleat at each seam. Cleveland's best Toledo. MICHIGAN.. easy stretching elastic band is used for the belt. Proprietors. Accept no substitute.— MATERNITY SKIRT. - Zoa-Phora Ten minutes of this Pile Remedy PILE ZOA-PHORA KALAMAZOO. necessary. how serious your case you will find the ZOA-PHORA PILE the one safe. See instructions (Lesson 76). 50 CENTS. and an extenskirt making. is arms where there but little Allowance must be made that enough goods left at the top of the skirt to extend the front and sides will as the figure demands in order that the skirt hang evenly all way around. will forever convince you that to suffer with this disease is positively unGo to your Pull directions in each package. Lesson 100. The opening down is the front shoulder is hemmed back.— MATERNITY GOWN. make this gown perfectly. druggist today ana procure a month's treatment before your No matter disease becomes more deep seated and chronic. and the dart seams either side from the shoulder faced back (Lesson S3). Instead of making starting in the usual way the lining has dart seams from the shoulder and the center of the neck.Lesson 99. maternity skirt is cut after a special maternity skirt pattern. 3916. See cut of lining at top of Fig. and extending to the bottom of the waist lining. tion at the top for lengthening front and sides. The instructions found in Lesson 91. REMEDY— known See page 96 for ZOA-PHORA REMEDIES COMPANY. for making.) QA~rt X REMEDY CO. PRICE. A IT /*phOHA (Trade Mark. Make lacing. reliable and satisfactory treatment. except the lining is finished altogether differently. Ohio full line of druggists who handle the Zoa-Phora Remedies Page 81 . and a very pliable. list of of time and 50 cents for a full month's treatment well-known meritorious effective Remedy. falls is eyelets (Lesson 25) on both sides of all three openings. and lace down with linen or elastic The band from which rather loosely fitted is the front of the skirt from exactly under the necessity to enlarge.

You will find on the following pages suggestions of appropriate styles for your gowns. purely a vegetable compound no alcohol. nervous. Do not make the mistake of going without sufficient underwear and of a quality to give you sufficient warmth and have all of your lingerie plain and dainty. To the girl after her who is away from home wardrobe we have made out a most useful in list or the one without a mother to look of necessary articles and you will find the list planning your wardrobe. — Shoes. — Light warm woolen 2— Under vests. — Bath robes. 12— Hair ornaments. 6 7 — Petticoats. by wearing a badly fitted corset. 4 5 Growing Girls For over 50 years Zoa-Phora has proven an invaluable remedy to meet the needs of weak. 19 — Sweater. Zoa-Phora is Dr. We would recommend the Berthe May "Hebe" Corset. especially~compounded to purify and the blood. while you are growing you can seriously injure yourself and your health. THE SCHOOL GIRL'S WARDROBE. opiates. Get your shoes of sensible style and thickness and large enough to be comfortable regardless of the season or fashion. All of your garments should be simple and Page 82 . — — Night gowns. for every girl entering womanhood. 8— School dress. — Combination corset 1 combination 3 covers and -WOMAN'S FRIEND FOR drawers. — House gown. 1 vate prescription for women. 15 —Collars and ties. build up the tissues^strengthen the nerves and put the entire constitution in harZoa-Phora is monious condition. 10 — Party dress. for during the pliable age. Special attention should be paid to your corsets. together with complete instructions for the making of them and if you are a wise girl you will begin with the first lesson of this book and master every point of plain and fancy needlework for it is one of the most refined acquirements possible for a gentlewoman to attain. — Hosiery. 11 —White petticoats. Pengelly's pri- 13— Millinery. suits. 18— Corset waists. belts and acces- sories. 20— Cloak. enrich 4— Handkerchief s.CHAPTER IV. 9 — Church dress. sickly girls and women. as it will give you all the beautiful curves and angles without the discomfort and danger of the modern corset. narcotics or other dangerous or harmful drugs. 16 17 Read our Special Offer Page 96 of this Book. 21 — Furs.

Collar (Lesson 63). 32nd Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister Choral Classes Bible Classes Page 83 . — GIRLS SCHOOL shirt waist DRESS. Follow instructions for making as found in LesGirl's dresses are The son style 91. and if no lining X2— X6. Follow instructions for (Lesson 89). made exactly on the same principle as a lady's dress. as nothing is more unattractive than rich elegant garments worn by a sweet faced girl. and without collar Lesson 101. GIRL'S DRESSES. CLEVELAND. Remember immaculate.— ting GOWN if 3911. whose natural charms are beginning to wane. Lesson 102. party and summer dresses. omit- hemming. Piano and Apply to the Junior and Industrial Mandolin Lessons Orchestra Practice Young Women's Christian ^Association Clubs Prospect Avenue and East 18th Membership Parties St. the material if embroidery omit omit Xll. Skirt (Lesson 95). OHIO West Side Branch Franklin and W. whose youth and its natural qualities need no artificial adornment. edge. dainty garments will win for you a thousand fold more admiration than magnificent. gorgeous effects suitable for the stage or at best for older women.— Make has exactly according to Lesson 91. shown is one widely approved of and very popular for graduating.girlish. sensible.

Used in Cleveland Orphan Asylums 20 years. Colds. collar 68). clean. Make 54). ones daintily dressed and Lickes Drug Co. Page 84 . 5 oz. and linens. sleeves and put in (Lesson 69). Especially pre- sewing where an economical wife and mother can save to more advantage than in by doing the work herself the making of the children's clothes. 50 cts. piques. bot. either 47).00.. The main goods such as point in planning children's garments in is to have them as plain and appropriate as possible. novelty goods or any warm material must be worn. percales.. but in the winter either underwear heavy enough to fully protect the child from the cold must be provided or woolen dresses of serge. bot. so that It is can be kept perfectly hardly economical to make boys clothing after they leave the "Buster Brown" period. repps. Hem Close (Lesson with dainty buttons and small button- holes (Lessons 29-30). or French seams (Lesson Make Make Make ruffles and attach (Lesson (Lesson 48). more labor and is care and expense than usually figured on. poplins. plain (Lesson 41). flannel. Shortens and lightens the disease. 56).CHILDREN'S CLOTHES.— CHILDREN'S DRESSES. every instance possible should be of wash etc. ginghams. seams. Prevents bronchial diseases. Quickly cures Croup. Physicians recommend it. In the latter instance the guimpe or sleeves it and yoke should always be of wash goods. Lesson 104. At Druggists. Every mother desires to see her little this requires 12 oz. M'f 'rs. $1. pared for Whooping Cough. There is perhaps no department of WHOOPING COUGH DUNHAM'S SPECIFIC. severe Coughs. O. all tucks in goods before cutting (Lesson Cut (Lesson Close 76). Cleveland. so we do not take up space in giving this instruction.

drawers (Lesson 48). A child's coat is made the after the same general instead principles as gown. French seams (Lesson neck. bottom of (Lesson Hem If .— CHILD'S COAT. the of the collar. is The cape joined at may be lined or unlined and the neck. Sew line a bias band around waist 30). Face waist armholes. 47). seam hidden by the facing 4483 Page 85 .— CHILDREN'S WAISTS AND DRAWERS. and make buttonholes or sew on loops of elastic cord. Put 64). and sew on buttons (Lesson Fasten up back with washable buttons.Lesson 105. except shoulders a of ruffles over the cape if desired may be made. Cut out (Lesson Join 76). is edging used overcast on neatly (Lesson 57). Lesson 106. S3). band on drawers to (Lesson make buttonholes button on waist (Lesson 29).

tal- cum powder. one cap. one coat. little necessary to a child's wardrobe are very simple and easy to make. To it ^3800 is the prospective mother. Cut (see Lesson 76). pared: three (white). six pair hose. six bands. six bibs. and how many of each article to make. comb and safety pins. six pair bootees. Put on collar (Lesson 68). one diaper cover. so below we will give a list of absolutely nec- garments and articles together with an idea of about the number of each that the average expectant mother should have preessary Six dresses. sensible garment for the little one to play in. CHAPTER VII. child and saves the mother much care and thought concerning his clothes. brush. INFANTS WARDROBE. three petticoats petticoats (flannel). especially one expecting for the first time. she usually prefers doing much of the work articles The Page 86 . one veil. Gather at knees. Make sleeves (Lesson 69). Sew up straight seams (Lesson 41). infant's etc. — ROMPERS. Make pocket (Lesson Make belt 73). one kimona. three pinning blankets. three sacks. (Lesson 64). six night slips. three wrappers. for they are a comfortable. usually a question as to just what they are to make.BELLE VERNON MILK the Best Milk Lesson provide her 109. and a layout containing all necessary toilet articles. three dozen diapers. — Every mother should with rompers. and if mother has the time to spare.

A rubber diaper should be made for protection on occasions § when you are traveling or taking your child away from home. Sew up seams (Lessons 41 and 47). The little flannel jackets are made in one piece and the edges should be The night gown. (see Lesson 106). cut square. the Mother's Health Should Be the First Consideration. and made as daintily as possible. of Birdseye linen or Canton flannel. While Preparing for the Coming of the Little One. The petticoat. Make buttonholes (Lesson 29). Kimona (see Lesson 86). quick and easy delivery at birth. and should take regularly during the last month of confinement and for one or two months after birth. the edges turned in and finished with an edging of lace or feather stitched. Make and attach collar (Lesson 68). follow instructions for making child's PRINCESS SLIP. CAN anything than PHORA Read the Special Offer as Given on Page 97 Ex pectant mothers can not afford to be without Woman's Friend Page 87 . Sew on buttons (Lesson 30). Diapers should be made of good cotton diaper cloth.Lesson 110.— MAKING THE INFANT'S OUTFIT. and a rapid recovery of natural health and strength afterward. but it should not be worn at all times as the ordinary waterproof diapers are not porous enough to let the air properly to the child's body.— The dress is made the same as instructed (Lesson 104) child's dress except very much longer. Bibs should be of double thickness. Hem back the fronts (Lesson 48). both flannel and the dainty white ones are made under same instructions as Lesson 105. Sew on lace or fine embroidery edging (Lesson 57). or if lace or embroidery edging is not used you may feather stitch around the edge of the collar and down the front on either side of the buttonholes and many prefer to feather stitch the hem (see Lesson 18). Cut (Lesson 76). Make and put in sleeves (Lesson 69). This treatment is a positive aid in maintaining a good condition of health during confinement. The coat. Hem bottom of skirt (Lesson 48). gown (Lesson 104). be more vitally important that the organs of maternity of the mother be in a perfect state of health and strength to undergo this trying ordeal? The expectant mother should begin to take ZOAas soon as pregnancy is known from time to time as needed according to directions. embroidered or neatly bound with pink or blue ribbon. and neatly hem by hand.

«m. M i(.CLEANING. for a process or chemical that removes the spot from one material will set the stain in or ruin another material. The cleaning of clothes and accessories of the dress is often a problem. You can do considerable for careful consideration mShT- ^!S>wb CLOTHES kept beautifully clean and in "crisp CUMMER'S Perfect (JAflVAS freshness" by every J^RESSING dainty housewife WITH CUMMER'S ffltCUMMEflPHODUCTSCO CltVEtAIO. must always be given to the nature of the spot and the material. CUMMER'S SHOE DRESSINGS The Proper Dressing For EVERY Shoe Ask Your Shoeman Page 88 .0»«> ENERGINE I 'SHOE OMOINATION DRESSING" GOOD AT ALL C STORES wuwmu moms cs i ei«n.

We give you in these pages the addresses of first class establishments. that must be otherwise your article may be returned to you ruined. Down Town Store 532 Euclid Avenue your own cleaning at home by using Cummer's Energine. feathers and almost anything cleanable. Soak in cold water. felts. furs. and care should be taken to select a reliable place. "Universal Dry Cleansing" It isn't the best. if the goods can be boiled. Coffee Stains:— Do not soak or put into soap suds until boiling water has been poured through the cloth until the stain is removed. soak the stain in salts of lemon. then pour boiling water through the of perfectly — — — spot until the stain has entirely disappeared. then wash in tepid soap suds and proceed as for blood stains. it should then be put in very hot water. then wash in tepid soap suds and proceed as lor removing blood stains. salt or flour until you have absorbed all the ink possible. woolen. and rinse thoroughly in clear tepid water. Blood Stains: Soak the stains in cold water over night. General Offices and Laboratories \2\$ tO 1230 East 71st St. or if on white goods. Boil from 20 to 30 minutes. which will clean woolen goods. Brass Stains. dip It is the a cotton cloth into the alcohol.THE UNIVERSAL DRY CLEANSING // it isn't CO. dry cleaned. Cocoa Stains. Auto Call Call Us Up —Phones. then rinse and wash carefully in tepid soap suds. If the spot is still moist cover with sugar. there are many garments your articles in good fresh condition. Then follow directions as for removing blood stains. Grease Spots on any fabric. Ink Spots: There are many ways of removing ink spots. kid gloves. so the main point is to alcohol that removes the have your cloth well saturated with the alcohol. or if the ink — — — — Page 89 . Nevertheless you will need a few suggestions for removing the spots and clothes and which you may desire to stains that are so apt to get on your try to remove yourself. Fruit Stains: Follow directions as for removing coffee stains. If the article is such that it can be boiled. Rub pure lard on stain and leave for a few hours. laces. and good laundry soap. in which has been added a mixture of equal parts of "Elwako". then wash in sweet milk and rinse in clear tepid water. If on thin goods pour out a little alcohol in a bowl and rub out the stain. stain and not the rubbing. silks. or if on heavier goods. silk or cotton can most effectively be removed with Cummer's Energine full instructions for its use are found on the bottle. where you can depend upon your work being properly done. leathers. Grass Stains: Must be removed with alcohol. and it should always be kept on hand to keep However. if the stain is on a washable article. and Delivery Service. and then rinse in ammonia water. rubbing until the stain disappears.

Cold on the Lungs. if the material not rub wet borax over the spot and rinse in clear cold water. then wash in gasoline or benzine. or rub out the spots in equal parts of turpentine and alcohol. and then rinse in clear cold water. Rust Stains may be removed by soaking chloric acid a diluted solution of hydro- and rinsing in clear cold water. or to a pint of water add one-fourth pound of sal soda. Rough Skin. For Chapped or Cracked Hands. Machine will wash. Boils. — and Paint Spots: Rub with vaseline until paint is softened. Chafes and Croup. Phone Crest234 - W ump ^^ Z/^» ^§S3S3Rgg0r Page 90 Prompt Service We Call For and Deliver 13256 Euclid Avenue and 13430 Euclid Avenue . or turpentine and ammonia. Tea Stains: Vaseline — Follow directions for removing coffee stains.Zoa-Phora Balm No Family Supply is Complete Without Known Ointment---within easy reach at this Well Diseases. Spots: — Rub out in kerosene and wash in tepid soap suds and rinse in clear tepid water. Burns. times Common Skin all i D rice Zjc rer oox Off D D • ALL FIRST CLASS DRUGGISTS will supply you has dried wash out the ink stains in the milk and rinse as above directed. soak the stain in this solution for half an hour. all Children's Sore Throat. Bell Phone 2192 / [J Cleaners for Particular People Edd y r ^*^/S-r T s**n f^k C-5 Cuy. Piles. if Wash with cold water and a pure white soap. Iodine Stains can best be removed with chloroform. then wash gently in tepid soap in — suds and rinse in clear tepid water. Insect Bites. Eruptions. than to attempt to do the work yourself. Scorch Marks can be effectively removed only by sunshine. Perspiration until the stain is — Stains: Sponge with a weak solution of hydrochloric acid. rinse in clear tepid water. but as this is a very dangerous drug to work with it is usually better to send your garment to a cleaner. Bruises. Oil: for 24 hours. Blisters. Catarrh and Colds in the Head. or oxalic acid until the ink has been removed. and one ounce of chloride of lime. then wash in benzine or gasoline. removed or the colors clear. Scalds. Or you may soak the stain in salts of lemon. — Mildew: Soak in buttermilk spread on grass in sun.

before putting in the article to be dyed. thus saving It is advisable. table covers and various other articles may be dyed and brightened up. the result will be a green. you can use the same dye for any vegetable nature. Snow Flake Hand Laundry The Cedar Cleaning Works Cleaning. piece of material in with the larger pieces. changing the water when times. the goods may be put back in the same dye bath. it is always best to discharge or remove as much of the old color as possible. Boil from one-half to three-quarters of an hour in a bath containing soap. ALL WORK GUARANTEED Fannie Hamlet. when dyeing. to put a small time and additional expense. to see if the desired shade is obtained. without removing the article itself. and do not stain the hands. There are in all which you are about to dye has nearly as much effect on the result as the dye you use. so that in case the desired shade is not obtained. do not throw away the solution until goods are dry. in fact making them in many cases. Princt 2906-L . same shade. 7420-R Doan 337-L Res. When dying. Old and worn curtains. so that it may be taken out from time to time. they should all be otherwise a variety of shades would be the In discharging or removing old colors from material that has been previously dyed. This can be accomplished by boiling the goods. Prop. appear as good as new and that at but a few cents of expense. and see the result. Page if necessary. rugs. instances a few precautions in dyeing you must always follow. When several pieces are to be dyed put in the dye bath at the same time. Do not expect to dye a dark piece of goods a light shade. Ohio DYEING. you have a yellow dress and use a blue dye. and dyed a deeper shade. for instance. do not crowd the goods. it becomes discolored. so that it takes day to wear off. In taking goods from the dye bath. the probable result. two or three 91 . If. The best plan is to try a small piece of goods fabric first. Phone. if cotton or silk. fabric. but keep them moving by stirring occasionally with a wooden stick. Dyeing Fine Lingerie and Lace Curtains Specialties and Feather Work 2420 Cedar Ave. Peacock Dyes are put up in collapsible tubes. They are easy and simple to use. Many old or shabby garments can be dyed and renovated and made over and months of service gotten from them. 90th Street Cleveland. where without dyeing they would be useless.North 776 Cent. 2336 E. and are much cleaner and dyes. as it is The color of the impossible to dye a dark colored fabric a lighter color. Unlike the old-time easier to handle than the old-fashioned dry powder whether it be of animal or dyes. like many other dyes.

etc. Chipped Straw. as the newly dyed material the bright and uniform. Rugs. Curtains. Wools. no soap should be used. Linens. Silks. Apple Green . owing to article is put into the bath of some of new color. worn and shabby Clothes. as of old color is it tends to The removal very important in dyeing articles out the that have been previously dyed. Feathers. FULL DIRECTIONS ON EACH TUBE.When removing soften the wool. Tablecovers. Peacock Dyes are put up in collapsible tubes. Basketry. Raffia.. making them appear as good as new. color from wool. By the use of Peacock Dyes in the household a great many old. Mixed Goods. may be dyed. making them much easier and cleaner to handle than the old fashioned powder dyes. old color come discharging when will not PEACOCK DYES For Home Dyeing THE ONE DYE FOR ALL FABRICS For dyeing Cotton. etc.

postpaid. We also manufacture CARPET CLEANER. Cents in stamps and we will mail you. Page 93 . that articles washed with last twice as long as when rubbed. It is invaluable ELWAKO ELWAKO IN It is YOUR LAUNDRY WORK sold by most Grocers. 0.. yet there are always numberless small things.. If you are not now using it. ELWAKO Elwako Manufacturing Co. and will not injure any fabric. and restores all the original brilliancy of color without injury. One 25 cent can will clean any common sized rug or carpet without rinsing or removing from the floor. get a If he does not keep it. or those ot a dainty. Bedding. with full directions for using. 1120 Prospect Ave. whether they be Table Linen. In this present day of good laundries the hardest and most laborious part of the work can be sent away. It is a scientific Washing Compound to be used in connection with any good Laundry Soap in accordance with directions printed on each package. and that it makes white clothes WHITE. is not a Soap nor a Soap Powder. Curtains or personal apparel. Ask your grocer for it also.LAUNDERING. or perhaps some pieces which one prizes very highly and one desires to have done at home. a package of regular size. send us Ten package from your Grocer. You must be most careful in this SETTLES THE WASH-DAY QUESTION NO LYE NO ACID WILL MAKE YOUR CLOTHES CLEAN*WHITE WITHOUT RUBBING SOLD BY GROCERS YOU SHOULD USE ELWAKO Because thousands of other women have in your weekly washing. learned by practical experience that it saves the hard labor of rubbing and dispenses with the washboard. It contains no Lye or Acid. sufficient for four family washings. Cleveland. E. not gray or yellow. S. which does wonderful work. delicate texture or color.

you have a good laundry soap many of the cheaper soaps. blended. line. as they will turn your clothes yellow and fade and cause the colors to run. one which will First. in perfect with great care. . water and roll —When —Iron dry. bluing and good starch and if possible have your clothes hanged out of doors. sprinkle with tepid is tightly and leave for at one hour. blow about and tear or become stretched out of shape. and coarser from the finer you have a large number of pieces. We suggest the use of "Elwako. for a badly laundered article is worthless to a particular or refined woman. be careful to get good saving of labor.work. for you can wear your articles out more by rubbing them over a rough washboard than you would wear them out in a week of almost constant service.'' as it positively contains no lye. —Boil two tubs of tepid from 20 to 30 minutes and wrinse thoroughly through one or water and then through bluing water. Second. North 975 Central 3280-W Prospect Avenue and East 14th Street A Particular Laundry for Particular People Cleveland Ohio Page 94 . — Sort over your clothes. acid or substance of any' kind which will injure the most delicate fabric. time and wear on your clothing. wrung out of the cold water. Then always use a good laundry aid. — Put fill one-half of this mixture into a washboiler containing very hot water and Fourth. Fifth.— -Starch and hang on so the articles will not Sixth. the boiler with the clothes. that you get on bargain counters. where they can get the full benefit of the air and sun. and it will make your clothes clean and whte with a Further. sort the and wash the finer first. are worse than worthless. and soak white pieces in cold water over night. Seventh. being sure that nothing with if a color in it is put with the all-white clothes. You should first see that remove the dirt and stains and germs without the unnecessary labor of rubbing. taking precautions to always keep the garment it form or you may render unsightly by ironing out of shape. but over night better. — Shave in soap together one small cake of Elwako and one bar of any good laundry three pints of water and boil and stir until they are thoroughly Third. least being sure that the corners are well fastened.

are not afraid to publish to every woman and to every physician and to the whole world. Zoa-Phora begins at the seat of your trouble and builds up every part of your body. The following indisputable evidence will convince the most skeptical of the merits and value of Zoa-Phora. just what Zoa-Phora is compounded of. Our remedies are used by the thinking class of women throughout the United States and we are giving you a few reasons why you are safe in choosing Zoa-Phora in preference to all other remedies and why you are guaranteed satisfaction." as do some of the cheap. Zoa-Phora contains no alcohol positively not one drop is used. relieved and cured the very worst forms of Female Trouble and ailments peculiar to women. Wife. one of the greatest Specialists of his age in the treatment of the diseases of women. It is manufactured only of the best and most valuable roots and herbs known to science. 6. Zoa-Phora is a vegetable compound. Present this coupon to your nearest druggist. 7. Zoa-Phora contains only the best and purest Positively the best ingredients preparation. therefore. It is indeed (Woman's Friend). patent medicine— not some dope handed down by an the prescription of Dr. but Zoa-Phora is 2. If you want to be cured. Zoa-Phora 3. asked hundreds of times daily honest Before using a treatment a sensible woman wants to know what she is using she is perfectly justified in demanding an honest and straightforward answer. If compounded your druggist has no free box for you have him With the purchase of one Dollar-size bottle of Zoa-Phora the bearer is entitled to a full ten days' special treatment of the Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Cones which the Zoa-Phora Company are supplying the drug trade free of charge for this purpose. rational. We to cure. Does not this prove that Zoa-Phora is beyond question all that it is claimed to be? Write today and we will send you a copy of its formula.— WHAT Is IS ZOA-PHORA? is Zoa-Phora" THIS question "What women seeking asked by intelligent reply. a satisfactory. for nearly women. tonic to carry them safely through the various changes of womanhood. 4. known to of drugs. give Zoa-Phora a chance to do its good work. or any dangerous or 5. Maiden. No alcohol in it to Zoa-Phora is excite the nervous system and make you feel fine for a few hours and then leave you weak and exhausted. 8. narcotics. Pengelly. Page 95 . and you will then know to your own satisfaction and benefit just what Zoa-Phora really is. Zoa-Phora is Nature's own restorative and cure. 1. inferior preparations Zoa-Phora is not an ordinary ignorant layman. No expense is spared in modern medical science are used in its its Zoa-Phora is not a secret formula. No opiates or narcotics to suddenly deaden your pain and in time ruin your nervous system. Mother. opiates. In addition to the splendid tonic effects of Zoa-Phora many women need a good local treatment and in order to encourage the use of our Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones in all cases when needed we are making the following offer of a full Ten Days' Treatment of our Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones (further information on page 79 of this book). plain. composition. — of diseases of the market for the treatment 50 years. that you have found a treatment perfected to the limit of modern medical discovery. Zoa-Phora is one of the oldest reliable preparations on It has. and Grandmother find it the best woman's especially the sexual organism. It does not make "drug fiends. does not make drunkards or a craving for stimulants. Zoa-Phora does not contain minerals. and given entire satisfaction. — on the market. write us. When you know what Zoa-Phora really is you will be convinced if you are suffering with any form of disease peculiar to women. harmful drugs.

50 - - . Marshall Drug Stores The May Co. FULLY WARwill be sent you by return mail.00 Cold Remedy La Grippe Remedy . etc. and will wear a life time. full line And in Lakewood and Detroit Avenue the of Zoa-Phora supplies can be procured from Lindsley Drug Co. You can procure Zoa-Phora from every including the first class druggist in Cleveland. The Zoa-Phora Remedies 1803 Co. 11600 Detroit Avenue Alford Crocker.25 - Not One Cent to Pay for the Teaspoons Now or Later Send us the three wrappers or cartons as indicated above. 1 - Number Number Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Pile Zoa-Phora (Woman's Friend) 2 - $1.. which means one Zoa-Phora (Woman's Friend) wrapper and your choice of any one of the remedies in Number Two and one from Number Three.50 .25 ..25 .50 . 16924 Detroit Avenue Dole.DEC 19 1912 One Set of Silver Teaspoons Free To Users of Zoa-Phora Send us the front of the carton or box from any one of the packages in each of three divisions below arranged and the full set of RANTED TEASPOONS \L SIX TRIPLE PLATED.25 Digestive Tablets Stomach and Liver Pills Anti-Constipation Pills - .. Standard Drug Stores Purity Drug Co. Adams Street Page 96 TOLEDO. 4706 Detroit Avenue Wilson Drug Co. OHIO . 18503 Detroit Avenue Go today to your nearest druggist and procure the remedies you need and send the faces from the packages direct to These beautiful teaspoons axe of the favorite Narcissus pattern.50 Remedy - Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones Number Balm ----3 - . 15621 Detroit Avenue Ludwig Pharmacy. best triple plated. fully warranted.


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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 080 524 5 .

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