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proof. sealed to insure cleanliness. Work and Worry almost finished lining for tight-fitting waists. 50 cents to $1. write us. 3 for 10 cents. if Money you are not satisfied. C— Tailor made. in transparent envelopes. very helpful in altering or reinforcing fronts. has Collar Support at If you cannotobtain GREAN SPECIALTIES We supply you dealer and send you will your dealer's. white or black. direct or through a reliable a catalogue oj other dressmaking helps. 15 cents a pair. Bray. washable. lias hooks and eyes. Carefully manufactured of best materials for correct tailoring of garments in prevailing styles. guaranteed collar supports. boned with hasted seams ahove. pliable. PRACTICAL HELPS FOR THE HOME or Made / . 75c. or lace waists on high.50 to $4. or nlack percaline. HEAVILY COVERED WITH PURE SILK FLOSS. of thoroughly shrunken linen canvas reinforced with hair-cloth and felt. nor after hours of tiring effort obtain the perfect they insure. has hooks and eyes. seamless belt. chiffon. 75 cents. cotton. Write Dept.00 (CSS) Eton front. B— Produce of any shoulder effect desired. back. A loose-fitting net lining for light. D— "GREANET" InvisibleV&isi Foundaiion ] E— Perfect rust F— Very SilkCovered armhole. (1) front for long coat. boned. for short coats. 15 cents a pair. "G" Co. silk Corsica. Designed for the trade and now sold in leading Dry Goods Stores everywhere. ready for draping.. clever pad. 00. invisible. (new). and the Professional Dressmaker. A— Perfected. Order by exact size of Linolawn. New York Page 1 . 35 and 50 cents. silk *l DO. fills in usual hollows around overlapping padded points for shoulders. Black or white. SI.. on new principle. Money. $3. white your waist. not bust measurement. You cannot make anyone of these essentials for anywhere near the price. shaped.^ DRESSMAKING SPECIALTIES Without Shoulder Form Long ci loulder Ready] cms Made Pitied "Waist Lining EAL. Use one or all and fit Coat Fronls \ Save Time. 5 for 15 cents. greatly improve appearance garment. Grean Shoulder Form and Pad 327-329 East 34th Street.open front or hack.00.

2.—Ruffles 26.- 61. .— Button Hole Stitch 25. Sewing on Lace or Embroid58.— Blanket Stitch 24.- 12 13 13 13 — Cording — Seams 42.— Catch Stitch 12.'.'.— Slant 6.— PLAIN AND FANCY STITCHES. . 50. Chevrons.- — Sewing on Buttons — Loops — Darning — Stoting — Patching — Overhand Patch" — Bands and Folds . Lesson 29.. and Overhanding 7 7.. 60..—TO HOLD THE GOODS 3. 44. 59. Lesson 1 . Cleveland. 3. 57. -WORKING INSTRUCTIONS. Stays and Collar — Putting Supports — Marking of Linen and Underwear — Embroidery Designs in in . 35. 48.— Piping 40. 27.'. 36. GUjrato Nutnttan IpII Eaat 541 13TB East mtlf fctrwt COATES SEWING AND DRESS MAKING MANUAL Published by Coates Advertising Agency. 34. 4.—Satin Stitch (French broidery) 8 37. 14.— Milliner's Fold 39. EmIS. 5.. .— Long and Short Stitch 20. Ohio CONTENTS 1. Page 21 21 21 . 26.— Welt Seam — Lapped Seam — French Seam — Hemming —To Hem Corners — Damask Hem 46. 8 8 9 10 10 10 11 11 11 43.— Fagot Stitch 13. 4. 49.— Chain Stitch 9.IttHtntfittfltt —loral Beginners' Voices Carefully Built and Trained lira.'.— Cable Stitch 10. 23. — Facings — Gathering Hem 26 26 26 26 27 27 22.— Tucks and Pleats 55. 62.— Felled Seam — Bound Seam — Strap Seam 45.— Solid Embroidery 21.— Damask Stitch 16. Make Buttonholes 20 — ery Embroidery — Setting on Lace or and Eyes — Sewing Hooks 27.— Punch Work 16. 27 28 28 28 29 Copyright 1912 by Lydia Trattles Coates Page 2 . (£.— French Knots 14. Emblems and Monograms — Eyelets — —To and Eyelet Embroidery 14 16 16 16 16 17 17 18 54.. Page 5 6 30. 31. 32.— Feather Stitch 19. 41.— Embroidery Scallops.. ".— Couch Stitch 1 1.— Shirring 56.— Hem Stitch 17.— Rolled 53. — Knot —Running Stitch — Basting — Backstitch — Overcasting Stitch 6 6 7 7 7 33.— Braiding 28. .— Outline Stitch 8. 22 22 23 24 24 24 24 24 24 24 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 51. 52. 47.— Cross Stitch 18.— Double Folds 38.— INTRODUCTION 2.— Seed Stitch 1 5.

.— CLEANING 17. 89.— CUTTING. — Maternity Corsets —Maternity Gowns — Maternity Skirts GIRLS' SUPPLIES.— COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS SPECIFIC WORK Lesson — Plackets —Belts and Bands —Yoke and Peplums (K) (L) 63..— Shirt Waist Sleeves 71. —The Young Lady's Dresses — Maternity Outfit Wardrobe 9.— High Collars 67. (D)— Millinery (E) — Lingerie 76.— Petticoats — Skirts and Underwear Without Plackets — Dressing Sacques (F) (G) " 78. 85.- —Jackets 76 76 78 79 80 81 81 PRESS50 50 51- — Sponging -Pressing 98.— Shirt Waists 91.— Night Gowns — Combination Undergarments. 93.— NECESSARY (A) MAKING ACCESSORIES (B)—Threads (C)— Sewing Thread (D) (E) SEWING AND Page DRESS30 30 30 31 313431 33 — Sewing Machine (F)— Linings (G)— Patterns — Embroidery Thread Hooks and Eyes (H)— Tape (I)— Dress (J) 35 35 Shields 39- 36 37 —Dress Form —Dress Trimmings 6. Lesson 97. — Children's 136.— Aprons — — Lingerie Waists — Housekeeping Gowns — Evening and Dinner Gowns. Cutting 53 —CHILDREN'S CLOTHES. 16. .—Turn Down Collars 69. —Boning 38 40 41 — Shirt Waist Supporter — Rain Coat and Waterproof Garments Lesson — Corset Covers — Drawers " — Chemise " 81. Lesson Lesson 74.— MILADY'S WORDROBE (A) — Corsets (B)— Sanitary Belts (C) — Sanitary Skirt Protectors.— Making of Gowns 92. Cleveland and Graduate of School of Expression. 82 83 83 84 85 85 .5410. — Street. 8. 57 58 60 61 61 62 63 64 64 —Rompers Coats 15.— Dress 12.— SPONGING.. (A) — The Well Groomed Woman. 72 74 75 75 7.— Sleeves 70.— FITTING AND ALTERATIONS. 83. 86. (B) — Scientific Beauty Culture 5811.— Girl's School Dress 103. Boston Dr. 88.. 80.— DYEING 18.— Tailored Collars 68. 79. 99. — Children's 105. — Making of Dinner Gowns. 66. Curry. FOR 42 42 43 44 45 45 43- Kimonas 87. Costumes and Coats 77- 95. 65.— Children's Underwear Outfit.. Lesson " " 102. 64.— SCHOOL Lesson " " 14 101. ness 72- 90.— Coat Sleeve 73. 75.— LAUNDERING 3 88 91 93 86 86 87 93 92 94 Page . SHRINKING ING.— Girl's -Gowns 104. 100. — AND 48 48 49 MATERNITY OUTFIT.—THE WELL GROOMED WOMAN.— Pockets Traveling Skirts and Busi- 46 47 47 96.Inatruflton Expression Literature Interpretation Pantomime Harmonic Training Art of Play Writing and Criticism iFlomtrp Hartlja itaaett (Swr^r) Graduate of Harroff School of Expression. — Lesson — Fitting and Alterations. 82. 77. President Bell Doan 1369-R 9608 Hough Avenue CONTENTS 5.. 110. Page 64 65 66 66 67 67 67 68 68 68 69 70 71 71 84. and Shrinking 13.— INFANT'S OUTFIT Lesson — Making the Infant's " 107. 94. Cuffs and Lap Closings 72.

Cleveland Credit Clothing Co Cleveland Dress Trimming Co College of Science (Acme) Connelly Co. (Monarch Polish) Basch. (Naiad Dress Shield) Continental Casualty Co Creme de Luxe Cummer Products Co. invented by Dr. Frank (Dentist) Electra Pure Water Co. B. (Sewing Silk) Belding Bros. (Sanitary Belt). but as and setting of the sun. 29 21 34 23 12 17 7 Arbor Tea Shop Art Pleating Shoppe Baird Bros. Main 730 Ohio Agency. by all means secure one of Dr. Chester (Vocal Instruction). Phone. 337 Old Arcade INDEX TO ADVERTISERS Page Adair. Stomach Trouble. or are any of your family suffering from disease? If so. (Energine Shoe Dressing) Devoe.. Rosenblum Clothing Co Sanar Remedy Co (Attorneys at Law) Shop of Kimonas and Art Laces Skalla. Ohio Office Furniture Co 91 5 Oxydonar Parrish. R. & C. 95. 55. . Sanche's Oxydonor's and by the use of it as directed. Co. (Morlene) Korach. 64 38 66 32 36 62 83 96 Page 4 . (Dust Bright) 59 63 10 Page Hawley Restaurant Henke Furniture Co Hexter's Lining Store Ideal Faucet Syringe Co Interstate Drug Co. (Elwako Laundry Aid) Euclid Cafetiere (Lunch Club) Farr. Joseph.. Mrs. David (Shirtwaist Belts) Battle Creek Sanitarium Food Co Belding Bros.. Co. 69 63 16 76 91 15 8. (Katharos) Ellsworth Public Hand Laundry Reis Initial Co. Co. Mrs. Grean Shoulder Form and Pad Grean Dress Making Specialties Grean Long Coat Front Foundation Grean Short Coat Front Foundation Grean's "Greanet" Grean Fitted Waist Lining Grean Coat Collars Fassett. Priestley. etc.. The C. H. (Book and Art Exchange). C. A. W. Pictoral Pictorial J. Dr. E. (Piano Instruction) 58 20 60 93 42 73 3 ' Co G. E. (Sewing Machine Supplies) Studio (Art Work) Cedar Cleaning Works Chandler. E. (Funeral Director). ' . (Real Estate) Conover. Ohio. (Ice Cream) Universal Dry Cleansing Co Victor Insect Exterminating Co 43 75 & Florence Martha (Expression) Frederick Piano Co Fries & Schuele Fulton. & & Sons Co. * Call or Send 10 Cents for Postage. Berthe (Corsets) 86 19 53 58 51 II May Co.. Thus writes Are you suffering from Rheumatism. Review Co. & Co. & (Shino) (Dress Form) Co." Edward Rigby of Lisbon. T. (Embroidery Initials) 74 50 39 65 94 14 29 28 18 19 71 Richardson Silk Facial College Elwako Mfg. if you want pREE— Books on Health.. Association 7. Wright. Sanche for the purpose of healing the sick. & Co Lawson School of Music Lickes Drug Co. (Osteopathic Physician) Morehouse Co Noteman. 31.. (Tape) Sons Co. cures. (Cravenette) 60 88 9 Dye) Dowd. & P. (Ganesh Toilet Preparation) A. The May. Margaret B. Co. H.. Co. performs which border on miracles. & C. Oxydonor will do it. (Senora Coffee) 24 22 24 Wm. Spinal Trouble.. L. Abbie E. Miss L. Co.. (Dunham's Specific) Long.OXYDONOR "This wonderful little appliance. (Dentist) Bryson Co. T. 76... Co. The process is natural and very simple.. G. 13. (Public Stenographer). Maud De Long (Dermatologist) Smith Carriage & Auto Co Smith Chemical Co. 6 44 60 47 1 Vacuum 20 55 89 13 77 78 54 35 45 48 55 Grean Arm Pad Grean Fitted Belt Griffith Warner Hat Shoppe Warren Featherbone Co White Sewing Machine Co Wilson Dress Hook Co Wright.. Restaurant Co. (Woven Names) Reis Initial Co. Ellen C. 4 P. Mfg. 30. (Fashion Book) B. even if all else has failed. Co. Pioneer Mfg. (Sleeve Initials) Reis Initial Co. Pneumatic Form Co. you will be restored to health. health. 68 9 72 41 46 54 37 11 Review Co. infallible as the daily rising Investigate. N. Diabetes. M. (Embroidery Silk) Belding Bros. F. (Embroidery Catalog).. Mandarin.. Hall. (Embroidery Scallops) Reis Initial Co. Young Women's Zoa Phora Co Christian 57. C. Mrs. (Manicuring and Chiropody). (Linings) Belle Vernon Dairy Co Berner's Art Store Boston Dry Goods Co B. Stroud. Miller. Nervousness. Raynolds Co. Mrs. (Wrinkle Eradicators) 64 26 61 64 5 84 64 52 80 40 56 56 33 2 5 31 8 34 25. (Sanitary Protectors) American Textile Mfg. E. Van Gorder (Havanco Mending Tissue) Haserot Co. No. (Peacock Carlton Monks.. F. ("Hair Vim") Snow Flake Laundry Shaver. (Domestic Cleaner) Swalley's Credit Store Telling Co. Wm... Co.

We have made the system as brief and as easy as possible and by following faithfully the instructions and always turning to the lessons designated you will find that you have a reliable guide to the making of every essential garment for your wardrobe. E. Sewing is an art and the woman who clothes herself with an eye to bringing out the possibilities of her grace and beauty and best points of individuality. laboritheir — ous piece of drudgery.. and hiding any possible defects of her contour or carriage will work as an artist. as the means of presenting to the world her ideal of thought.. THE OHIO OFFICE Chandler Central 332 1-K Main 1368 FURNITURE Bell. For this reason this plain. has been written on the subject of sewing and many of our best magazines have given us invaluable information. etc. On the other hand if they know just how to go ahead and have each step made plain for them to follow they could add many beautiful garments to To be sure much that is very helpful their wardrobe at a very small cost. but many women do not preserve these periodicals or have not the time to wade through all the other literature and sometimes a labyrinth of instructions to find out the system of properly cutting out and putting together and finishing a dress or suit or piece of underwear or perhaps doing up a piece of household sewing. INTRODUCTION. Thus dressmaking will become an Art and a Science and a pleasure instead of a nerveracking. non-individual clothes simply because they do not know exactly how to cut and fit and make and finish the articles of their apparel and without complete instructions before them do not feel like risking the time and the material in experimenting. 111-112 Old Arcade . without as complete a wardrobe as they would like to have or pay out more money than they feel that they should spare to get . Ohio 429 The Arcade North 1450 I. LAXATIVE BRAN BISCUITS "The samples you gave do the work ine were delicious" BATTLE CREEK SANITARIUM FOOD Page 5 CO..Public Stenographer Duplicating Filing Devices Tables. Quigley Desks Chairs Armor-Clad Steel Furniture Cuspidors and other Office Furniture Murphy & Gunlocke Miss L. Cleveland. L. Many women go garments made or are forced to wear unbecoming. trimmings. CO. S. simple and comprehensible set of Sewing and Dress Making Lessons have been compiled without waste of words or unnecessary repetitions. using herself as the model and her materials. 1145 Prospect Ave.

->. . materials. left hand. Sit up straight. hemming of fragile garments. Basting Stitch. The Proof of the Pudding is in the Eating The Proof of "Frederick Service" In the Trying is Every Record Every Victrola $15. 1612 EUCLID AVENUE Page 6 . FANCY Lesson 1. by backstitching (Lesson 4). Lesson 17.CHAPTER III. 3. FREDERICK PIANO CO. Try Our Superior Service Today. CHAPTER PLAIN. (1) (2) Slant Stitch. gathering. (3) (4) Lesson Hemstitch. Lesson Stitch. Knots should never be visible in any sewing except in basting. -.. leaving the right hand Never hold the work so as to crush and free with which to do the stitches. F. . Lesson 5. hold the work firmly in the left hand.— stitches through the cloth should It will be of exact and equal length. but learn and practice holding and doing your work properly and sitting erect. Running 2. W. needle with proper sized thread and hold in Wind thread once over forefinger of right hand and pull tightly. crumble it nor yet so loosely that the stitches are taken unevenly.$200 Sound Proof Demonstrating Parlors Experienced Salesmen. French seams.. The Lesson 2. and do not form the bad habit of pinning the work to your skirts and then humping over to do it or winding seams over the forefinger of your left hand.—Thread AND ORNAMENTAL STITCHES.— RUNNING STITCH. IV. be in constant use for seams on light etc.oOOCNO''. . Always take stitch under the hem or seam to hide knot but in open space where this is not possible fasten thread by taking two or three stitches over each other or — KNOT. TO HOLD THE GOODS. Always hold the goods in a position so the stitches are taken toward you.

Hold your goods with the edges which you are sewing on toward you. Insert the needle under the fold.— Baste material with edges exactly even or if single trim smooth and even. Voice Culture of both the singing and speaking voice a specialty. Use Slant Stitch (see Lesson 5). The half back stitch is taken half way back between the space of where the thread is drawn through and where the stitch leaves off on the upper side.— BACKSTITCH. Lesson 6. From under side draw needle through cloth exact depth to be overcasted or overhanded and take stitch over and through twice to hold firmly.—The Lesson 5. Begin next stitch exactly where last stitch left off on upper side of sewing (see cut 1). Ohio West Side Branch Franyin and West 32nd Home Nursing Home Making Chafing Dish St. Lesson 4.— Begin at the right and work toward the left. CIk Cawson School of music and Other Tine 10507 Superior Avenue Cleveland.— OVERCASTING AND OVERHANDING. handing are to have needle point at exact depth and be exact distance between each stitch. then take a short back stitch back on the upper side and a long stitch forward on the under side. using two or three stitches to hold (never knot under a fold).Sewing Millinery Apply to the Cookery Dining Room Service Dietetics Dressmaking Tailoring Shirt Waist Young Women's Christian Association Prospect Avenue and East 18th Cleveland. practical and artistic manner.—Take a few running stitches (see Lesson 2). page 6).— SLANT STITCH. —BASTING. Ohio All branches of Music and Dramatic Art taught in a thorough. varying the distance between stitches according to the quality and thickness The two important features of perfect overcasting or overof the material. progressive. Point the needle toward the left shoulder and pass it through a few folds of the material and a few threads of the fold. Making Trade Class Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister Cooking fundamental principle of all good fitting and adjusting lies in the proper basting. Lay your cloth perfectly in place and then fasten by taking even or uneven running stitches through the material as in cut. Beginners or Advanced Pupils Private or Class Lessons Day or Evening Jim Best Instruction Moderate Prices Page 7 . Lesson 3. This is one of the most particular lessons in sewing as every stitch must be exactly the same in height and distance apart. (See cut 1.

of the previous stitch.— Start have left New York at City Lesson 8. 528 Broadway STITCH. in eight different twists. half stitch is (see way back the center. If and we will BELDING BROS. take a short stitch through the material. thread under thumb form loop.— CABLE STITCH. your dealer does not carry "Belding's.Have You Tried T^T lriLLlllVJO ICECREAM? Lesson 7.— CHAIN the top of your design and always your needle to point a towards needle through material. New Process Embroidery Silk and every conceivable shade. ing stitch and draw rather yet not enough to wrinkle the goods.— Take even stitches.— OUTLINE T TTVT/^O French .— The the cable as the chain stitch needle is made almost exactly Lesson 8). guaranus. & CO. Belding's teed fast dve. side of the Take each stitch back two threads on the precedtightly. except that drawn through at the side. Lesson 9. holding your work with the needle pointing toward you and always keeping the thread on the same needle.American STITCH. hold down Draw you." write tell you where it can be obtained. bringing needle through one stitch distance ahead and proceed as before. instead of at Page 8 .

such as Eyelet. Solid and Outline Including numerous designs for the popular Braid Work and the Punched Embroidery. New The New of the Review Embroidery Catalog. Etc. Pictorial Fully explained and illustrated in linen. Are all illustrated. HAND BAGS. by mail. Y. SKIRT PANELS. Underin not forgetting the exquisite designs for wear. Page 9 . either the These may be obtained Transfer or Perforated Patterns Purchase a copy today at any newsdealer. SUITS. having the stitches in each row fall between those of the opposite row. Add 15 cents for The New Pictorial Review Embroidery Catalog. The "New" Pictorial Review Embroidery Catalog is filled with ideas and suggestions of interest to any It is woman who em- broiders or does fancy work.Lesson 10. Seed. Hold the threads in place with your left hand and fasten them to the material with small stitches on the right side. SHIRT WAISTS. COSTUMES. Satin. many DOILIES. Send 20 cents for a sample of this work begun on special and one large needles. profusely illustrated and contains designs for all the various kinds of embroideries. BELTS. New York. or The May Co. N. and Infants' and Children's Wear. —COUCH of STITCH. Price 10 cents. —'Couching thread at is made by apart laying straight lines equal distances across the design. 15 cents THE PICTORIAL REVIEW COMPANY THE PICTORIAL REVIEW BUILDING 222 West 39th Street.

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Schofield Bldg.E. and draw the needle through to the right of the group and take a short stitch in the fold (See cut No. pictures in Book ana Art exchange 31 Taylor Arcade Monogram Work. Lesson 14. FRAMING A SPECIALTY.— SEED STITCH.and . At the place where the threads cross catch to thread desired down with the cross stitch. Paints for china 10c and 15c each. insert the to as many threads as are desired (always the same number). china decorating and firing. High Grade Stationery. Birthday. your cash income does not stop just when you most need it. page 6. O. unexpected piece of bad luck comes. pastel or crayon. of the hem. LONG teach or paint to order. Come in 2357 -W.— HEMSTITCHING. Anniversary. We insure both Men and Women. Congratulations for Birth Carlton Studio 1430 Announcements and other special occasions. Be positively and safely provided for by the largest Health and Accident Insurance Company in the world.. Dainty Cards. needle under and through the hem.—The back seed stitch is made by taking small stitches covering the leaf or petals of a design or in monogram. group from three toward you. water-color. 358 The Arcade SICKNESS OR AN ACCIDENT MAY COME TOMORROW ACT TODAY — Page 11 . and ask us to tell you today and let us explain or call up CENTRAL WHAT FIVE CENTS PER DAY WILL DO FOR YOU. for exact position of needle). THE ELLEN and C. Cleveland. stitches The rows must be evenly spaced and the each row falling midway between those of the rows at either side of them.Breadwinner Then when the unforseen. laid draw through in the number of threads have been opposite direction at even distances apart another set of threads. also teach work.Art We do stencil Work oil.— DAMASK needle across STITCH. Lesson 15. (See Lesson 11. CONTINENTAL CASUALTY CO. Wedding. W. Lesson Protect -Yourself . wrong side and bring the through pattern to carrying When the be worked.— Draw the required number of threads Hold the hem and turn hem and baste exactly below last thread drawn. 1.Watt.— Fasten up the thread on right side.) 16.the .Mgr.

Your druggist can supply you MANUFACTURED ONLY BY The Interstate Drug Company 12 Cleveland. you are not tell them afflicted but of Morlene. Thick Neck or Goitre by Tumors and for the sake of a better appearance the Double Chin.— CROSS is STITCH. Double Chin. Enlarged Joints. therefore we want every person afflicted with Goitre and similar troubles to know that there is a remedy which is really a success in If 92% of all cases.Lesson 17. GOITRE will disappear when treated with MORLENE Also Thick Neck. to say the least. so it is always best to get rid of any enlargements about the throat whether they be Goitre. are. have relatives or friends who it. Tumors. the breathing or the blood flow to and from the brain. its effectiveness has been thoroughly proven. no matter tions is unsightly and disagreeable. 50 and we will promptly deliver a full size package containing a sufficient quantity for an ordinary treatment of 30 days. Morlene is not an experiment. Ohio Page . we will say that in every dangerous and disagree92% of all cases. Inflammations The above statement has been so thoroughly proven that we are almost tempted to say Morlene However. and it often produces dangerous condiaffecting the eyes. They should know about if he wants your trade. If he fails send us SI. to avoid will cure any case of Goitre. possible misrepresentation case Morlene relieves the able conditions accompanying Goitre and gives entire satisfaction to how bad or how long standing.— The cross stitch simply bringing one stitch across the angle of the other.

O. ONLY No powder dust left — No poison— No bad odors. Let us hear from you. (See cut).— Mark thread along the line chalk or run a colored to be followed. are at your service.— FEATHER tailor's STITCH— BRIAR STITCH. insects. Churches and Stores of all germs. left line. Happily the White experts came to the rescue with this remarkable device THREAD CAST-OFF THE White Rotary Thread machine — SANITATION HEALTH HAPPINESS Our method is of fumigation and insect extermination absolutely the most up-to-date and efficient method in use. There's no time like the present to look the White over. rs^J Lesson 20. It's just another instance of White superiority. and two stitches to the left. —then Boats. bedding. It is the method endorsed by the Government experts of all nations. instead made by taking three stitches to the Lesson 19. It should be fumigated by our method once a year it will be clean and healthful. one-half the dis- tance depth as the succeeding one. manufacturers of Rotary machines have had a world of trouble with the thread tangling in the shuttle race. Our experts Our methods are used & B. hold thread take a short stitch through and to the right side of down with the mark or thumb. thread stitch down directly on downward to left the of the mark or mark line and hold with thumb and take short or line and repeat taking stitch. Hotels. etc. to say nothing of the loss of time in trying to get the machine to work right. and you can imagine the annoyance it has caused the operator.— Is Page 13 made by using is the in. with pencil or Lesson 18.—LONG AND SHORT STITCH — stitch Follow exact instructions as slant 5).— SOLID EMBROIDERY. We rid Boats. bring needle through to right side. White Sewing Machine Co. Warehouses. long and short stitch in successive rows until the design entirely filled . 426 PROSPECT Both Phones Victor Insect 351 The Arcade Exterminating Co. Knot bring thread. exclusively on the C. etc. Penetrates through plastering. first on the right then on the left. and recommended by the State Medical authorities as being the only absolute remedy known to Science. CLEVELAND. Talk about trouble why. is The double feather or briar stitch is made by taking two stitches to the right of one while the triple feather stitch right and three to the left. Thread Cast-off (it's exclusively White) and the difficulty vanished as if DON'T NEGLECT YOUR HOME by magic. (see Lesson except that one stitch in is taken. mice. upholstered furniture. rats.— the the only is equipped with a Cast-off.

620 Broadway. of embroidery their attractiveness. desired tone of expressive charm— an indication of character— the "intangible something" of which a woman can well be proud. sample strips of scallops and samples of the Reis Letters in your initial. many other designs so much vogue at the present time. shows the exact position of the needle. Take stitch through material depth desired with needle pointing downward. a name of a dealer in your city stamp and the who would most you in re- likely handle our goods.ed des'gns the letters. we guarantee that they will retain their shape and appearance through all the washings. Just moisten the back and stick on. LEARN AX OUR EXPENSE How easily the most inexperienced sewer can create perfectly stunning effects in embroidery with the new Reis Gumbac Foundations Scallops. yards REIS FOUNDATION LETTERS Are made Script in three styles: Harmonizing colors gramrr. Underlaying and Basting difficulties eliminated.— SATIN STITCH. Draw needle through loop and repeat taking every stitch very closely together so no gap appears between the stitches. REIS' FOUNDATION Letters and Scallops They add that much help to make your wearing apparel and household linen distinctively rich. page IS.Lesson 21. Hold thread under left thumb forming loop. You will use the Satin Stitch in making in the Chevrons. The material in their composition is of European origin. Reis' Letters and Scallops make embroidering simply delightful with the Stamping. Reis Gumbac Foundations are not made of ordinary paper or even papier mache. especially silk will add to when working mono- Block Old English — easily accomplished 2-cent by interlacing Send us your name. new Sold at the Art Counter of Any Department Store Reis Initials. We will send turn our In Sizes from % inch to 10 Inches. the scallops or embroidered edge vary according to the Often the depths of pattern or design to be worked and the outline must be very carefully followed.— Fasten thread by running and back stitches." 1J 4 Gumbac Scallops come in six styles— 26 patterns. If you can thread a needle you can successfully use them. boilings and ironings that the article on which they are embroidered will withstand. and work over with That's all. Remarkable as it may seem. silk or cotton. Lesson22. They are very simple. and in satin stitch is the stitch taken straight across from one edge to the other of the design or taken on a slant from one edge to the opposite edge. and retail at a uniform price of 10c per card of to the small sizes and S of a yard to the large.— EMBROIDERY SCALLOP STITCH. New York Page 14 . booklets. Nor will they discolor or harm the finest fabric. The cut shown in Lesson 25.— (French Embroidery)— The or Initials. Our standing offer is as follows: "We Will Pay for Any Garment Injured Gumbac Foundations Through Washing or Re!s by Reis Ironing.

D OMESTIC VACUUM C LEANER Dirt and Dust are a Constant Menace to Your Home A of large percent of our contagious dis- eases are carried into the home by reason germ laden dust. 15 STROUD CO. Lesson 22. H. old.THE OLD WAY TO EMBROIDER SCALLOPS. cabinet built and will the only hand cleaner The DOMESTIC is with attachments for cleaning Mattresses. pleasant and easy way. With these attachments you have a cleaner with every advantage of an electric machine at a little greater cost than the best Bissell Carpet Sweeper. THE B. is only Vacuum Cleaner with Full Ball-Bearings and a BaliBearing Adjustable Roller under the suction the plate for light or The DOMESTIC heavy cleaning. Then a running stitch must be very carefully taken at the exact line desired to indicate the depth. Then you must pad your scallops with the chain stitch using a good filling cotton. E. Upholstery. Ohio . tedious and laborious manner of embroidering scallops new. & C. is The DOMESTIC last a lifetime. or come to our office. or Central 8258 K. 510 The Arcade Page Cleveland. The old method is to buy a transfer pattern or hire the stamping done. When your foundation is completed then embroider according to embroidery scallop is is There and there an a stitch. For free demonstration phone Main 2463. etc. The DOMESTIC Hand Cleaner is as powerful as the best portable electric.

— Begin by fastening thread by using running and back stitch.— BLANKET STITCH. press down with your hand and work over with the stitch taught you in Lesson 22.— EYELETS EYELET EMBROIDERY. Smith. Then fastening your thread on the under side of the material. Lesson 23. drawing needle through loop. bringthe ing the point just outside the outline stitch. send it down in the first up again in the first dot of the first row and draw the thread slightly to pull the goods together. To save time and energy and to insure satisfactory results with your work. oblong or pointed. procure the necessary length of Reis Foundation Gumbac Scallops. a small distance apart.— Eyelets may be round. Either manner is correct. Lesson 25. Run a cotton thread around the outlines with very small running stitches to hold the form.—The Buttonhole stitch and the Embroidery Scollop stitch are done exactly the same (see Lesson 22). and repeat.AUTOMOBILE PAINTING.— PUNCHED used for WORK. oval. — Lesson 24.— BUTTONHOLE STITCH. then punch with a stiletto. 1911 Cars Remodeled with Fore Doors and Repainted to Resemble 1912 Models Telephone--East S40 1970 EAST 66TH STREET. F. REMODELING AND REPAIRING. which can be embroidered over without any of the preliminary work explained.the stiletto.— Thread the long special and knot it at the eye. Lesson 26. By needle courtesy of Pictorial Review Co. The blanket stitch is the same as the buttonhole stitch only each stitch is made instead of very close together as the buttonhole stitch is done. row. bring in first the first it Page 16 . NEAR CORNER OF EUCLID AVENUE Smith Carriage $ Auto Co. except that in embroidery the point of the needle is toward the edge while in buttonholeing the point of the needle is toward the cloth. Pass down needle dot of the dot of the second row. taking care to always have the stitches exactly the same distance apart and exactly the same height. L. Proprietor THE NEW WAY TO EMBROIDER SCALLOPS. See cut of Lesson 25. Hold thread under left thumb forming loop take stitch depth desired with needle pointing downward. begin work in the upper left-hand corner of the design. Make stitches very even and rather tight and then shape perfectly with . AND Set the needle for each stitch just outside the cotton outline stitch and draw the point through the stilettoed opening or set the needle through the opening. This eliminates all the drudgery of stamping your design and all the filling-in work and gives a much more desirable effect than you can possibly obtain by the ordinary methods. for exact position of needle. Bring up the the work. All you need to do is to moisten the scallop. Then send the needle down in the first dot of the second row and bring it up in the second dot of the first row. TRIMMING.

_l-Mi 1^- H I L^. gowns. CLEVELAND. To secure the most attractive effect the braid should be sewed on the edge so that it will stand up on the material. Joseph Korach 1258 ^—^— & Company II. Braiding Ladies'. Suits. There infinite variety of beautiful designs and patterns now in vogue for is an Those braiding. you have done all of the work in one direction.^ through the second dot of the second row. FOURTH STREET. Misses' Braided in and Children's Dresses. pass down through the second dot of When the second row and bring up again in the third dot of the first row.— BRAIDING. evening wraps or children's dresses and can be used on any material. not having the time or the inclination to do this work for themselves can make up their garment and then have experienced braiders neatly and carefully carry out your ideas in any simple or elaborate design which you may select. i Lesson 27. draw the thread a bit. The stitch used to sew on the braid is a short stitch on the right side of the For materials of net. serge or linen a braid or cord the color of the material should be used. soutache. bring up through the second dot of the first row. most artistic and approved designs. turn the naterial and repeat the stitch at right angles to the first set of stitches. (Braiding and Embroidering) W. OHIO m^m j i ——— jj i . cord. Coats and Blouses the latest. Braiding is most suitable and effective for a border or a trimming for waists. so that the effect will be one of little squares. chiffon braid or cord and a long stitch on the back. these patterns for braiding must be most carefully done and the design followed exceedingly accurately in order to produce a satisfactory effect. bias tubing or fine embroidery or the design can be followed with the outline or chain stitch. It can be developed with plain braid. so the plainest or the most fastidious tastes can be satisfied.li l —^— Page 17 . Bring your work to us or phone and we will tell us up by either you what we can do for you. of your We also make buttons own call material in all styles. or marquisette a dull silver or fine gold or soft silk cord put on with button The stamping of hole couching makes a most beautiful border or trimming. suits. On heavy goods such as velvet.

Made in three styles-— Old English— Script— Block— sizes ^g inch to 10 inches. your monograms or We have plain and suitable for fancy letters every need of embroidery linen. REIS 630 ASHABLE LETTERS •«amo r M«»OOIf)EBV BROADWAY NEW YORK The Morehouse Co.Use Reis Foundation Letters for initials. You can either get the Reis emblems. such as lingerie. etc. chevrons and monogram foundations and selves work over them with the Lesson 21). CHEVRONS AND EMBLEMS. Sold at the needlework department of every department and dry goods store or send for our illustrated bcok on embroidering and samples in your initials. boys' suits. table covers. and a number of purposes which present them- and children always delight in an emblem or chevron on their arm. Etc. household handkerchiefs. and sew on. rons and monograms on a separate piece See of broadcloth or linen. will supply you with Reis Foundation Letters for any desired purpose Ask Q t the needlework department Lesson 28. or crinoline or stiff lessons on embroidery for the monogram work. while grown ups always appreciate their monogram neatly worked on their garments. Page 18 .— MONOGRAMS. satin stitch (see you can stamp them on paper and baste them on the goods and embroider. Chevrons and emblems are very appropriate for sailor suits. cutting the paper or crinoline away as soon as finOr you may embroider the chevished. work bags.

Richardson's 1 Back for Pillow 1 Grand Prize Grecian Floss On sale at Diagram Lesson arrangement of stitches — showing and color scheme. and Six Skeins of Richardson's Mercerized Cotton Floss for BERNER'S ART STORE Arcade Building oniy 25 cents Page Cleveland 19 :: Ohio TOUR CHOICE OF TWELVE DESIGNS .— This Beautiful Pillow FREE f All we ask is that you buy 6 skeins of Grand Prize Wash Embroidery Silk Richardson's or trated lesson for ZDC and a The fully illusPillow Top and Back are absolutely FREE. This extraordinary offer is made to convince every woman of the superiority Richardson's Grand Prize Wash Embroidery Silk Why your home with attractive and not beautify effective pillows when the opportunity is offered? We will give you tire this en- Pillow Outfit including 1 Pillow Top — either oblong or square Every woman wants these attractive pillows and also knows the true value of —tinted on Aberdeen Crash.

Distinction and Style. None of the tonic values are lost. IS AS AS DISTILLED WATER. which is best described as being pure until it is declared impure. otherwise you may ruin your garment. Women.— Unless you have tested your skill in making buttonholes it will be wise for you to practice until you are in a fair way to feel confidence in your ability. First mark the exact length of buttonhole you desire. Pay as you can spare it. KATHAROS HAS LIFE AND SPARKLE. Springs situated in proximity to thickly populated districts are peculiarly liable to sudden contamination. in the exact place you desire it. Quality.— TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES. then run a thread around the space you intend to cut. 2035 East 18th Street Cent. THE BOTTLES ARE STERILIZED and rinsed with Katharos before being filled.00 I'M THE MAN That'll Always Give You Down. PURE ALWAYS PURE— CONTAMINATED h°nes : N ^r t 34 6 The Electra Pure Water Co. The volume of sickness traceable to SPRINGS is of vast proportions. Clothes of the BETTER SORT of Clothing. Cleveland. then cut straight the slit to be worked. Ohio Lesson 29. NOTHING BENEFICIAL IS REMOVED by the process of purification. the DIFFERENT. over cast the edges then work with the button hole stitch (as per Lesson 24). KATHAROS KATHAROS due to the liberation of gas during the electrolytic action. TERMS— $1.Clothes of Quality for Men. but is much more palatable and tonic in its qualities. Ohio Page 20 . It contains enough of the minerals and salts to make it the most healthful of drinking waters. at prices absolutely as low as at any cash store. Boys and Children ON CREDIT HERE you'll find the NEW. A SQUARE DEAL CWALLEY'S CREDIT STORE ^"^ 424 Euclid Ave. The Purest Water Sold in Cleveland ( Bacterial Tests Abundantly Prove the Truth of this Statement ) THE PROCESS OF PURIFICATION necessary for the production of Katharos is the most advanced known to science. 3241-W Cleveland. IS in which respect it is very unlike spring water.

In mending stockings a darning ball may be used. Always begin a little beyond the worn places so your stitches will hold. Lesson 32. Get acquainted with our stock and new things with which our store is Let us show you what beautiful pieces can be had for little money. then fasten well on under side. such as stiff paper or thin oil-cloth. W. allowing the eye of the needle to pass under first. then begin on the cross wise threads and run over and under the lengthwise threads altering the over and under stitch. continue till loop is covered. DARNING. Page 21 Co. leaving the thread moderately loose. LOOPS. they should be basted on a flat surface. and run your thread exactly along the lengthwise thread of the garment.— Lesson 30. but in mending most materials. then measure exact place button is needed.. and examine our Furniture and Floor Coverings. draw through cloth and bring thread loosely down to exact length desired. When the button is securely sewed on wind the thread a few times around under the button and fasten well on the under side of the garment. cor. The darning thread to be used depends entirely — — — on the material to be darned. as it should match in color and quality. and mark either with a pin or with tailor's chalk. Fasten the thread well on the under side by several over and over stitches. Place button directly over mark or pin and bring up thread through holes of the buttons.— Have button hole completed first. The Henke Furniture 3001-3021 Lorain Ave. Fasten your thread with the over and over stitch.— SEWING BUTTONS. ON Lesson 31. Then begin at the bottom of the threads and insert the needle under the loops and over the thread. repeat three or four times or until you have thickness consistent with the weight of goods you are working on. 30th . and in many instances a thread or ravelling drawn from the goods itself is preferable. HAVE YOU EVER INSPECTED OUR LARGE FURNITURE STORE? It Will Pay Come You in to Do So see the filled.

Baste patch on wrong side of goods. send post paid upon the receipt 1382 West Ninth Street THE HALL-VAN GORDER COMPANY Page 22 CLEVELAND. all and press with a warm flatiron. On the right side cut out the worn or frayed part and make a small slit in each of the corners and turn down evenly the edges and sew down neatly on both sides of the garment. follow above for Garments repaired with Havanco may be washed and ironed but not Heat is the only thing that will affect it. — Stoting. or will of the price in stamps. boiled.— Lesson 33. Black and Brown Ten Cents to the by package for . One For sale piece each of White. and patches can be put on and repairs made on a moment's notice by adhering to the following directions: Brush leaving size it all dust from garments. also mending all kinds of rents in clothing. OHIO . and cut it so the weave comes exact with the place to be mended. PATCHING. etc. HAVANCO MENDING TISSUE The best thing for repairing bottoms of skirts and pants. not have the iron HOT. silk garments. the stitch to mended without darning or is A is thread from the cloth used and begun back from the rent and the back and forth in running is stitch a slanting line taken until the tear has been closed. dry goods and notion stores.. If possible have your patch of the same material. Cut piece of the Havanco tissue the of the piece of lay a paper on cloth over for stockings. — Stoting be is used on »%&&% WTPrfiiTi?lIli-- heavy goods. directions Re-seating or repairing knees of boys' pants. place piece of goods like garment under hole. a little larger than the hole. silk goods and place it between the garment and the patch. Lesson 34. druggists. Same directions goods or other goods where part is worn thin and a patch required. . Remember do patches. — There are many materials such as rain-proof clothing or kid gloves. and useful for making many other kinds of repairs quickly and effectively. and on a rent or cut in a material which needs patching. or that can be mended much better with the Havanco Mending Tissue than with needle and thread.

in a syringe. will last a life time. which is controlled by a valve. IDEAL FAUCET SYRINGE COMPANY 9601 Cedar Avenue. perfect and effective syringe ever made.. so long found inefficient and unsatisfactory. desired to use an antiseptic or sanative treatment in connection with a douche.: Lesson 35. clumsy fountain syringe. while the ordinary fountain syringe has not enough force to it to dislodge germs. a which has and when sponge in it.— OVERHAND ordinary patch right side (see PATCH. except that the patch to a overhanded on the and the underside neatly cut down good seam and pressed. Cleveland.— Where may be used. in washing off dirt from the porch. With this Ideal Faucet Syringe you can get the same results.. no cumbersome water bags to get out of order. sanitary. and the force of the stream can be regulated to suit the purpose for which it is used from a drop of water at a time to a pressure of 50 pounds. It is the most simple. always ready. It is entirely unlike the old style. all that is required is to it is drop your medicine onto this Sponge in the cup. — The Ideal Patent Cup Attachment.. the overhand patch put on the same as the is Lesson 34). will use the lawn hose with such force as to drive everything before it. A lady. You can get any desired pressure or flow of water. The operator can use a pint or a gallon without stopping and at any force desired. convenient. screw on cap and attach to end of rubber tube before putting on the spray and then screw on the vaginal pipe and the whole stream of water is medicated with the medicine. Ackerman's Patent Ideal Faucet Syringe and Bath Spray The most wonderful improvement ever made j-i i !<v . if necessary. economical. Ohio Page 23 .•> . Can be used for everything a fountain syringe is used for. whereas with the Ideal Faucet Syringe you can obtain any desired force. as there is no limit as to the supply of water. the goods are heavy and not It is often washed.-. y\ '..

and are width and join the diagonal bias is Lesson 37. as they make a Cut your bias strips the desired easily made. considerably on tailored suits. Fold over the top edge. On heavy goods that do not ravel or fray out to press back the edge of the seam. Take your bias band twice the desired width and fold so the edges come exactly together. With a narrow turning fold the broad edge over the narrow edge of the seam and hem either by hand or on machine. Lesson 42. or they may be protected in various manners. such as binding or overhanding the raw edges. Lesson 40. the bias strip to emerge. Sew up the seam in any of the ordinary ways described in the preceding lesson. and is an easy manner of disposing of the tailored seams. or back stitch or the edge when of material that does not fray can be left raw or pinked. —PIPING. — Piping is made of bias strips folded in the center.— MILLINER'S FOLD. 39. chain running stitch. — — Cent. and cutting diagonally. Ask your dealer for the W. Hold the cord so cannot become twisted and place the exact center of the fold. ends. Baste and sew on either by machine or by hand. allowing only the edge of The piping may be lined or unlined. 4679 K Tables fnr Ladies DRINK Griffiths Restaurant 1022-1028 Prospect Avenue SENORA Always the Same CLEVELAND. & N. — CORDING. the canvas is basted in and the edges of the fold fastened down with the catch stitch. Trim the under edge narrower than the outer. but the stitching must be very straight and very even.B. — — Lesson 38.Lesson 36. Good Try Our Home-like Baking QUALITY HAS BEEN OUR SUCCESS COFFEE Page 24 .— Cut Lesson and basted N. obtained by folding on the selvedge or straight Folds and bands are used very neat trimming. and stitch on either side gives a very good finish.—A true the material with the straight edge of the top lengthwise fold exactly.— BANDS AND FOLDS. — an exactly even depth under the fold.— Cut it the bias strips twice in as wide as desired. and silk thread should always be used to join the seams of a garment made of wool goods. 41. Seams can be joined by machine stitching. turn down the fold and sew neatly just below the cord. which is beautifully made at and ready for use. SEAMS. 0. make a narrow turn up of the bottom edge and bring it up to cover the edge turned down. or by making the felled or French seams. Lesson — — stitch. piping. When the fold is lined. your bias bands two and one-half times the width desired. and then turn under the edges of the fold and stitch with one or two rows of stitching. FELLED SEAM. Great care must be taken that the stitches are not too fine on tailored seams. DOUBLE FOLD.

or after turning the edges for the hem fold toward the center. Then cut a strip of heavy paper or notch a piece of card board the exact depth you desire your hem and use this paper or card board for a marker.—THE FRENCH SEAM.) side of Page 25 .— To hem square corners. STRAP SEAM. when hemming can be done on the machine as it saves the measuring and basting. Much time is saved however. being careful the stitches do not show through on the right side. This is one of the simplest manners in which to dispose — — — — — — of a tailored seam. Lesson 49. Baste down then hem with slant stitch (see Lesson S). overcast using the damask hem. binding. LAPPED SEAM. and cut out the underlying corners. & N. -Make a plain seam leaving one edge wide and one edge narrow. When finished take a moderately hot iron and press down wrong the hem on 51. Trim evenly and narrowly. and overhand the end. — Is used for setting in insertion. (See Lesson 5. Lesson 46. & N.— The proper material for binding the edges of seams is bias bands of silk. Lesson 45.— TO CORNERS. binding turns itself so all you need to do is to fasten the binding on by hand or sew it down with machine. turn under exactly as for an ordinary hem.BELLE VERNON MILK the Best Milk Lesson 43. The edges of the goods to be bound should be evenly trimmed and the binding basted on the edges. Hems are made by turning the edge of the material twice in any suitable depth and the fold fastened down with the slant stitch or by hemstitching or in some instances the plain running stitch. Lesson 44.— Sew the seam by machine. Lesson — ROLLED the right side. HEM.— THE BOUND SEAM. Cut either bias or crosswise strips and turn under both edges and stitch over a plain seam. very simple. Lesson 47. Lesson —DAMASK at HEM. Hold goods toward you and turn neatly and begin at the right and sew insertion and material together with the slant stitch. while in others a hem is joined to a lace or embroidery insertion by what is called a roll hem. — Table It is linen can be very neatly hemmed by hem. Catch the overlap of the corners of the hem to the underlap. For the ordinary hem begin by making a narrow turning. yet deep enough so the turning includes all the edges. of Turn fold as of for an ordinary Fold back the linen the crease the first the hem and with very fine stitches. WELT SEAM. leaving just room enough to catch the stitches nicely. or hemstitch (see Lesson 17). or W. HEMMING. linen or cotton. 50. turn garment and sew on wrong side taking seam of depth to entirely inclose the first seam. A lap seam is as its name implies one seam lapping over another. Turn back the wide fold and baste down the narrow edge and stitch with one or two rows of stitching. Lesson 48. or running stitch on the right side of the garment. and cut the material in the fold and hem — — HEM the bias edges. for your hem must be turned exactly even. Stitch near the edge of the upper lap and again one-half inch back. The W.

In this instance the edge of the embroidery or lace must be heavy enough to entirely cover the edge of the material of the garment. lace. or the work will not look neat. Where lace or embroidery must be joined in tucks sew the cloth so the seam will come in the fold of and under the tuck. then heavy draw goods on gathering string into exact position desired. made of goods without a finished edge edge must be neatly hemmed the Art Pleating Shop 438 Old Arcade Cleveland Page 26 . Fancy Waists. House Gowns. Lesson — — straight — Lesson 54. Pleats are made the same as tucks. embroidery.— SHIRRING. tape. Muffs. & N.— RUFFLES. Place the right side of the facing against the right side of the goods and sew firmly with machine or by running stitch. Street Dresses. your goods into two or four even knot and use the simple running stitch. Maternity Dresses. Hats. so it is not necessary But to make to baste in your tucks after a little practice on your machine. a piece of goods cut either across or down the weave of the goods will do.— Is simply from two to as many rows of gatherOn most materials it ing as desired. 52. Etc.— Divide rather make a 53. And many styles of Pleat ings for Trimmings of Dresses. Dancing Frocks. Neckwear. Use a bias band. or on a seam. embroidery. lay a damp cloth over them and press so they will keep their fold nicely. In underwear the W. Etc. bias tape is most useful in innumerable instances. Always draw the ends of the threads through to the underside of the garment and tie carefully.spaces. Dressing Sacques. accordion pleating. unless you have a pleating machine of your own. Lesson 56. at Lesson 55. either N. Facing of lace or embroidery around the neck or arm hole of sleeves is sometimes put on the right side making a trimming or finish. tucks by hand you must make a marker and fold exactly on the line and — — sew down carefully by machine or with running stitch. Turn and sew down either with machine or with slant stitch. FACINGS. side pleating and sunburst pleating must be done but all a pleating establishment. chiffon or any of If the ruffle is to be sheer materials. can be done as successfully on the sewing machine as by hand and very much quicker. B. The White Sewing Machine is provided with a tucker with which you can easily both regulate your tucks and the space between the tucks. Lesson — GATHERING. PL E ATI N G Accordeon Pleating and Side Pleating made in the newest effects for Party Costumes. Children's Dresses. Embroidery or lace may be used for facing on some articles by following the suggestion of cut which is done in the same way as the ordinary facing. Waists. only you must always baste down your pleats. — Ruffles may be made of straight or bias goods. TUCKS. A first class sewing machine is provided with a tucker that can be gauged for any size tuck you desire.

and cannot rust.— SEWING ON LACE OR EMBROIDERY. either by gathering (see Lesson 52).— SEWING ON HOOKS AND EYES. Cut out goods Carefully baste down hem over edge leaving enough only for a narrow hem. to the necessary fullness and by placing the right side of the material and ruffle together and sewing firmly. or with a piece of the W. ZOA-FHORA KALAMAZOO. N. Props. work a ruffle of lace or embroidery may be put on with the whip stitch (see Lesson 6). Lesson 58. make a second turning and hem. put the right side of the lace to the right If the machine is to be used put the edge side of the material and overhand. On page 32. See page 96 for partial list. of the wrong side of the lace or embroidery to the edge of the right side of the hem and stitch.— If the lace or embroidery is to be put on by hand. (See Lesson 48). When the food is not being properly digested and the Liver refuses to work and the whole system becomes clogged with poison and you need a good. or the ruffle may be sewed on the right side and covered with a bias band. quick. MICH. snap fasteners or buttons can be used. PRICE. They are flat and invisible and never slip open as To sew on. where hooks and eyes. and all Disorders Arising from a Sluggish Liver and Imperfect Digestion. and stitch on right side.— Baste the lace or embroidery on the right side in the exact position desired. where an ordinary hook or buttonhole would be placed. ZOA-PHORA STOMACH The Scientific AND LIVER PILLS and Effectual Remedy for Biliousness. Liver Pills Stomach have been used for over half a century with most For habitual Constipation and Bowel Trouble use the ZOA-PHORA Anti-Constipation Pills. 25 CENTS. belts. gentle cathartic fL-J^y^-* & - RememberZOA-PHORA Stomach and gratifying results. turn hollow side (see — Page 27 . you will find a cut of the Wilson Dress Hook and Eye. For sale at all first-class druggists. bias tape.. Or the lace or embroidery may be set in by using the roll hem. The White Sewing Machine has an attachment wherewith the hemming is done and the lace or embroidery sewed on with one operation. & N. undergarments.. Or again the ruffle may be inserted in the hem by placing the right side of the garment and the ruffle together and turn hem back to In very fine the wrong side of the garment. which is done exactly as overcasting. B. waists. children's garments or any purpose. Lesson 48).Moth 71. Lesson 57. Lesson 59. Headache. dresses. The Wilson Dress Hook and Eye is easy to hook and unhook. and if desired an edging may be sewed on either by machine The ruffle is attached to the garment or neatly overhanded (see Lesson 6).— SETTING IN LACE OR EMBROIDERY. sew hook so often happens with the ordinary hook and eye. which we recommend for skirts. taking pains to catch through the narrow hem on the underside. Liver Pills CO. of insertion.

. is This or the Reis fully embroidered articles. JL22Z Pa ere 28 . but a more attractive way is to use the catch stitch (see Lesson 11). in fact all laundered garments should be marked with the name or at least the initial of the member of the family to whom the article belongs. aprons and children's clothes.i different style letters. navy. What MARK YOUR GARMENTS WITH REIS' WOVEN NAMES Vonr garments should hear your name. lingerie and handkerchiefs beautifully monogrammed or with carecuff. Lesson 60. fleeze lined and woolen underwear. You can get these letters or monograms in nearly any shade or style and all you need to do is to baste them on your fabrics and work over them with your embroidery cotton or silk. St. However. The gauze. many prefer to use the feather stitch (see Lesson 18). The Warren Feather Bone for stays or collar supports can be stitched by machine into the lining of the article to be boned. REIS & BRO. for they are perfect and durable and will stand the boiling and ironing of the laundry without being damaged in the least. Every garment and piece of linen in your home should be marked.sewn to an i Sm Phora won't do for garment. by procuring the Reis woven names. initials plainest form the distinctive mark which The Reis foundation washable letters lends dignity to the or the Reis initial medallions should always be used. Men's shirts should be marked with an embroidered initial just above Linen.es for $1.— PUTTING IN STAYS AND COLLAR SUPPORTS.— MARKING OF LINEN UNDERWEAR. very quickly and easily done. Broadway and Bleecker ®*s NEW VCKK o^v/rv. $2. light hlue Mark and can he had in several . the hosiery. in a REIS' ENGRAVED NAMES t'anilin. It saves annoyance.. s accident. G. uji 100 200 Names for $1. The stitch used is simply sewing over and over through the small round holes of the hook and eye. prevents loss by laundries and hotels.25 IV arr-.25 for 72 Names Names Plate-. ami are easily cut apart anil . REIS' WOVEN NAMES are machine woven <>n good quality white "a m hi ic tape in either red. Lesson 61. in the most elaborate gowns. and sew the eye where an ordinary eye or button would have been placed. They never wear out.75 If your dry p><<ds store cannot take youi orders send youi order with remittance direct to us.- Printed from Engraved Black on fine Tape: WOMANKIND no medicine will. woven initials made on woven tape which can be neatly overcasted on the inside of the garment. as are the ordinary hook and fastener.00 for 144 $1. which gives the inside of the boned' article a very pretty finish. as well as in the simplest. besides being a substantial stitch to hold the boning secure. ami will identify you in case of REIS' NAMES come in si jj.toward the cloth and the straight edge toward edge of cloth.

green. Embroidery Send or bring us that piece of Embroidery that you do not know how or have not the time to trouble to do. Reis' Initials elimate all this work. Our experienced embroiderers can work out in perfect effects any design you may choose for any purpose Either machine cr hand work.. Price. each or 3 for 25c. CJA11 you have to do is stick them on and work over with silk or cotton. m. beautiful and elaborate creations. (Braiding and Embroidering) Cleveland. The designs and stitches used will depend entirely upon the taste of the individual and the style and texture of the garment. etc. but all of the stitches ordinarily used will be found in this series stamping and making the garment. G ReiS & BrOS. Y. (CLEVELAND Sixth City initial sleeve or pocket of shirts. and ^-* R "IS • it 9 EMBROIDERED SHIRT INITIALS is West Third St. pajamas. white. However should you prefer to have the embroidery done by more experienced fingers than your own or have not the time to devote on that part of the decoration of waist or gown you will do well to take it to your local embroiderer where the work will be done by trained hands who make a specialty of lessons together with full directions for of embroidering. 630 Broadway. N. embroidered initials are very beautiful. m. 4th St.The Hawley Cor. Lesson 62. We also make buttons of your own material. ii red. but pretty AVERYon the fad to have the Hand Regular Dinner. Ohio . work a. dresses or wash suits which meets the refined feminine approval more than embroidery designs. Joseph Korach Both Phones 1258 Page 29 & Company W. St. Served from 11 25 Cents to 2 p. navy. requires artistic ability and much to make an attractive design.— EMBROIDERY DESIGNS. There is no trimming or ornamentation for waists. in all styles. On nearly all smart garments from the marquisettes and sheer chiffon and silks and dainty lawns to the heavier materials and all wash goods you will find at least a suggestion ranging from the pretty French knots and the simple outline and chain stitch following the simplest of patterns to the most intricate. Clair Ave. 10c. lavender and black.

) 39. Before beginning the making of a garment. the thread should just pass easily through the eye of the needle. A good sewing machine (B) THREADS.) SEIWNG MACHINE. made in One is of the greatest mistakes is sewing is the use of a needle that too large and thread that too coarse. cheaply made machine when for the same money or a few dollars more a first class. (Silk. (See page 16— Stiffenings 17 — Tape.) 38.) 37. see page 31D). see that you have the necessary accessories at hand with which to do your work.) 41. Your machine must be kept perfectly clean and well oiled and by keeping the tension adjusted just right you will not need to give it much further attention. (See pages 12 13 14 34. or where a line of tucks or trimming is desired. (See page 18— Trimmings. On the other hand do not attempt to use a coarse thread in a fine needle or a fine thread in a large needle. and ? learn how much easier. The articles usually required are: 1 2 —Cutting Scissors — Button Hole Scissors Stick 3— Yard 4 — — — 8— 9— Pins 10 — Tailor's —Tracing 5 —Tape 6 7 Line Needles Thread. reliable and reputable make can be purchased. 426 ProspectCO. better and quicker it will do your sewing.) 36. Botti WHITE SEWINGNo. (See page 21 — Dress Forms. MACHINE Avenue Phones CHAPTER XI. shall be glad to show it up and let it speak for itself. (See page 19— Dress Shields.Buy a Sewing Machine before you see the WHITE. quilt. hemstitch and in fact do nearly everything that the human fingers can do in this line and a wise woman will keep her attachments always on hand and use them whenever possible for they will save her hours of useless labor. with ordinary care will last a lifetime so the greatest of caution should be used in selecting one. DO DON'T DO WHAT Vibrator. A modern machine is supplied with attachments that will hem. (See page 20— Boning. but and a large spool of white basting thread and a spool of colored basting thread to use where it is not expedient to mark with a pencil or tailor's chalk. 11 Wheel (A) 40 and 41. Chalk — Skirt Marker. gather. (Basting) Thread. It is always a bad investment to buy an inferior. Rotary Shuttle IX! We and "Sit-Strate" Machines. provide yourself with a variety of sizes of cotton spool thread Be sure and Page 30 . NECESSARY SEWING ACCESSORIES. (Cotton) Thread. — Hooks and Eyes — Patterns 15 — Linings.

if the thread is not of the Silk thread is particularly adapted for seam making. is made from your dealer does not carry "Belding's. & CO. Great care may be used in selecting styles. It's exclusively White. silk will wash and wear without fading. and so if you are progressive and desire to do your sewing under the most advantageous conditions. Pure costs One of the (D) most important SEWING THREAD. and so available only for White at the value to buyers.. elasticity and fast color. not be generally known that silk is the strongest fiber known to mankind. trimmings. WHITE SEWING MACHINE BOTH PHONES (C) 426 CO. 528 Broadway NEW YORK There hook and (E) HOOKS AND EYES. and yet the results will be disappointing. is strong. consequently. requisites in dressmaking is the thread used in sewing the seams. Embroidery silk will give that rich. etc. lustrous and beautiful effect that cannot be obtained with any of the imitations or substitutes. then you'll need the WHITE. With it you can do work that can't possibly be done on any other machine. they are always unsatisfactory and a garment not properly is — Page 31 . is The kind of embroidery material all important. and we will BELDING BROS." write tell you where you can get it. smooth and elastic.DON'T GUESS you as a Sewing Machine user of the White Tension Indicator but see it for yourself. count of its great strength. the results to be obained will more than justify the difference in expense. BELDING'S SEWING SILK the finest quality of raw silk. Be sure to drop in and see it at first opportunity. whereas a cotton or linen thread has no "give" or "stretch". PROSPECT AVENUE EMBROIDERY THREAD. and while embroidery silk more than cotton or any of the other substitutes. no greater extravagence than to invest in a cheap worthless eye. and that a yard of pure silk thread will stretch from two to three inches. will give to a stress. and made in every conceivable color and shade. on acproper texture. and It may will always retain its original shape. If us. cloth. a seam sewed with silk is infinitely stronger.

Gray. So flat . the back is always smooth. while others L-oi. making them invaluable on wash garments. lation to They are truly a reve- on Dress.. 1 My er's Deal- Ave." women accustomed to troublesome hook-.omng.. — will fastened is ruined. No matter how loose or tight your garment. out beyond the edse and show. ..State.'ilson i pppp H E» d Fill Out This Coupon . N. Name J.. provided you have not previously had a free card Dress-hooks are guaranteed not to rust or crush in washing The Wilson and .E. neatly closed and perfectly flat if you use these un ique hooks Though you can unhook them with per. oard of one dozen.ig not go through the is laundry without pieces. Outwear Tlense send. Always Dress-hook Co. Ohio hooks are sewn. Black and White colors. "Thank you. upstairs and I'll run fix it. Page 32 . J His Address. Cleveland. snap fasteners or buttons.kooks FuBI-Size Card Sent V..* invisible they never pull they do not leave the usual "bunch" which tells where other yf' Cleveland.ClairAve. free. O. fect ease. White) previous sample Sold at notion counters everywhere (remember the orange and black card) Large and Small sizes. 10c a My Name Street Ask for Wilson Dress-hooks on all ready-to-wear . Clair * y* ^* Town . garments Address J The Wilson Dress-hook Company 198 St. E.N. 10c several garments. card Wilson Dress-hooks.** 198 St. best thing to do to make sure that This Embarrassment Can Never Come to You if You Use the hooks that can't "pop" open accidentally or allow the dress to gape and spread. — Black. and eyes. Can not catch on trimmings. its Many to of the common The brands of hooks and eyes will rust and leave marks on your garment. They are Wilson Dress-hooks.

place. the quality of thread. because we make a specialty of all the little the linings and findings.— you have a brand that in will not rust and that will positively hold your garment recommend and use in our demonstrations the Wilson Dress Hook and Eye.. but the finish of lining. shields and dozen other seemingly trifling details. and always and pleasing assortments. silks in large and dress things. all the best of such are here. We Specialists in Dressmakers'' Supplies '"THE BEST DRESSED and making of their WOMEN are most often those who take the keenest interest and pleasure in the small details clothes. Coat Pads. Co. importance of the little things not only the quality and style of fabrics. which we find is always reliable and satisfactory and costs no more than any other good fastener. is at hand. And. realize the These women Each season fabrics finds here the newest of cloths. to the style book and pat- We mention: Conovers' Naiad Dress Shields Warren 's Featherbone Wilson's Hooks and Eyes £5? Embroidery Foundations Coat Fronts. Shoulder Forms and Bust Forms The Ladies' Home Journal Patterns Reis Bros. Page 33 . Every convenience tern. the kind of hook and eyes.

In order to overcome this difficulty. Dye Guaranteed Satin the every yard guaranteed to give satisfactory wear. effect in the lining of a coat (F) It is just as essential to it have a satisfying Silk is or jacket. you are assured of a If your garment does not require a or satin lining. 528 Broadway NEW YORK CITY LININGS. It is naturally the most beautiful of all fabrics for lining purposes. as is in the exterior. & CO. very difficult. some of the most reliable silk manufacturers are weaving their names in the selvage of the lining as a guarantee of wear. Look for and accept no substitute. for the average person to wear well. Belding's Pure silk Dye Guaranteed Satin. BELDING BROS. you should take into consideration the HEXTER'S LINING STORE Dress Makers' Supplies and 1 Tailors' Trimmings " "Everything for your Dress but the Goods 153-155 Arcade : : Euclid Avenue Entrance Page 34 . on account of the practice of adulteration or weighting. No fabric will wear as well as a pure dye silk fabric. select silk linings that will By procuring reliable. cloak or garment. however. satisfactory lining for your suit.Belding's Pure name on the selvage.

write us today ana we will supply you direct or give you of a reliable dealer who handles our line. but simple principle which is embodied in the Grean Waist Linings. If you are lining a waist that needs a fitted lining. the seams are very loosely stitched. Be careful and purchase the exact size or exactly what your measure is around the waist and you will have a good fitting lining.. (G) PATTERNS. Always select a pattern exactly your own size don't get one a size too large or a size too small. /A / \ ± ±J. \J XV A Digestive Tablets See ?oT 96 special offer For Indigestion. boning. white and grey percaline. Always get your pattern before buying your goods if possible. or if it is a light weight waist. which is ready for use without having the trouble of cutting. Dyspepsia. With every Pictorial Review Pattern you will find a Cutting Guide show- ing exactly how to lay on your goods to the best advantage and how to guard against making any mistakes in cutting. This & 51 - 00 name Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Company. you will find it easy to cut and fit and make any garment you may desire. illustrating precisely how to put the garment together. which dressmakers at home. and all Disagreeable Symptoms arising from a Disordered Stomach. Heartburn. or professional have to suffer before they attain the result which you obtain in a ready made Grean Fitted Waist Lining. They are made in linolawnblack. Nausea. 327-329 East 34th St. have hooks and eyes in the back or front. They are all finished. but you may rest assured that the new. and have it stuffed up for the purposes of having her own figure for fitting 75c and draping in the workroom. by knowing exactly the — required amount to make the article in question. Belching of Gas. New York weight. overcomes all obstacles. Sour Risings. for often you can save a yard or so of goods or save yourself from running short of material. The cost of a pattern is so small and the help they give so great that you cannot afford to take chances of wasting your goods without a pattern to guide you. according to sty!e. the If your dealer cannot supply you. for if you do so you will take every chance of making a complete misfit of your garment. where a fitted lining is not desired the Grean Invisible Net Foundations will be most valuable to you. and you will need to be informed as to the best. as new linings are constantly coming into fashion. Unless you are an experienced designer. 25 cents per box y (^ jTV " pTTfvn l\. Page 35 . putting on hooks and eyes and finishing. There is also a Construction Guide. fitting. but above the boned portions and on the shoulders. boned. Pain or Distressed Feeling in the Stomach. as it eliminates the endless preliminary fittings. Bloating. Every person should buy one of grey percaline fitted to herself. much time can be saved by using the Grean Fitted Lining. quality and texture of your material and go to a reliable lining store. this affords easy ripping if a fitting is necessary and all the fitting is done at the upper part of the waist in all instances. cutter and fitter never attempt to make even the plainest garment without a pattern. so with this Manual of Sewing and Dress Making and a Pictorial Review Pattern. asking them to show you their newest and most appropriate linings for the purpose which you desire. and in white and black Corsica silk. To all those who have not tried them it seems impossible. finish it.FITTED WAIST LININGS is considered one of the most important inventions of the present time.

Dept. 13 widths Pure Linen and wide) usefulness. also in India Linon. finishing or It will binding seams on all materials and for fagotting. and for this BIASSEAHTAPt It turns itself "W. for the support for the hooks and eyes. & Sons Co. Wm. showing colors. Made "W." Bias Seam Tape Are you taking advantage of its Cambric and Lawn. for the binding around the neck and armholes and many other purposes. &N. NEW YORK. Wright 40 Lispenard St. Mf rs .? White and (*4 colors. TRADE MARK REGISTERED Once used Always used Beware of Imitations AT ALL DEALERS A is very useful article for piping. while on your skirts your seam must be bound." Bias Seam Tape INDISPENSABLE IN THE SEWING ROOM Saves half the work making a garment. widths and quality of materials. & N.— (H) It is TAPE. not shrink. 4 widths (5-16 in. For the waist you will need it in many instances. Page 36 . i in highest grade n - to 1 in. Silk. wide).. to }A in. F. E. almost impossible to make any article of wearing apparel without tape.. Sample reference book free. a necessity in the home sewing room.

(I) DRESS SHIELDS.Y. you will see this tape neatly put on with the tiniest of slant stitch making a support just below the scallop of the embroidered edge and you will find it most satisfactory to follow their example. of from perspiration be sure and select a cheaper shields on the market today are anything but satisfactory and the ruined waists showing the stains just below the shields are a result of their use. We use in our demonstrations and always recommend the Naiad Dress Shield. At the cents. 101 Franklin St. On the Parisian lingerie. Bias Seam Tape. you will find that a support of the W. which is ready for use and turns itself so the edge is always neat and even. On your underwear you will need it to bind over your embroidery ruffles. & N. stores or sample pair on receipt of 25 Tl 1 he f* T* /"* t. It does not deteriorate with age and fall to powder in the dress can be easily and quickly sterilized by immersing Guarantee with Every Pair in boiling water for a few seconds only.. & N. Added to these the fact that an unreliable shield will not wash and cannot be kept sanitary makes it imperative to procure a good reputable shield that can be relied upon to protect your gown or jacket. tOnOVer LO.— purpose no tape answers so well as the W. which nothing in the world of the kind can rival in daintiness and beauty. there is an odor from the rubber of the cheaper shields that is very offensive to a refined woman. Narrow Bias Seam Tape means an additional wear of many months.N. f* Manufacturers.. and when you have an embroidered edge to your garment as seen in Lesson 79. instead of facing. And then too. Page 37 . protecting your garments shield reliable When dress — so many the The Crowning Attribute of Lovely Woman is Cleanliness NAIAD DRESS SHIELD SUPREME Beauty ! IN Quality ! Cleanliness ! POSSESSES two important and exclusive features.I!.

Michigan Page 38 . Girdles and Collars because Stitching bone in on by machine holds the place. collar-bones. insist and leaded dress weights that they are u -ip^M&tt" YtMendif£u Three Oaks. for all tailors use only the Warren Feather Boning. as best known and most reputable boning on the market. The class dress- is by far the (The Perfect Boning) for Waists.(J) BONING. giving permanent shape To bone a waist Send for requires less than 10 minutes our Instruction Booklet with attachment for machine FREE When buying waist-bones. first it makers and subject of boning can be quickly disposed of. girdles collar-sets. collar-foundations. Linings.

" Edition H-I. It relieves you of tiresome standing hour after hour for fittings. serves for any number of persons by simply changing the waist lining. skirt and dress making and fitting or for dress repairing at home. If you are ^eiiftxriii It's You The Wonderful Pneumatic Dress Form Sold In Many First Class Stores Pneu Form is the easiest and handiest dress form the world to manipulate. Pneu Form is mounted on an adjustable standard rod which may be raised or lowered to the exact height desired. 557 Fifth Ave. containing full description and prices. One Pneu Form. It is the practical invention of a woman and consists of a nonleakable air chamber made of specially prepared m and well covered rubber cloth. near NEW YORK Nothing so good for skirt And base this little box tlwi S». and enables you to study your own form while you work upon your own garments. but to save yourself the time and the tediousness of trying on your gowns. For waist. you simply inflate it inside your fitted waist lining and before you stands YOU shoulders. Pneumatic Form Company J. you do your own dressmaking or have it done at your home you should by all means provide yourself with a Dress Form.(K) If DRESS FORMS. To make Pneu Form perfectly.. reproduce your form. jjBK fitting and holds draping it all Page 39 . nothing can possibly take the place of Pneu Form. not only as a means to secure correct and perfect lines and insure a well fitting garment.6th St. bust and hips with looking glass — — fidelity. Write today for new illustrated booklet' "It's You.

Euclid. for during the tedious. Shears and Tape Measure. hips. stands without tiring. simply and durably made. and get the benefit of Notion Dept. Skirt can be adjusted to any style and can be raised or lowered to any desired skirt length. and the fit of your garment is of far more importance than the quality of the material. $3. waist. If you sew.. Pictorial Review Pattcis 10c & 15c Main EAGLE STAMPS FREE with Every Purchase Floor Euclid Page 40 .00. $5.00. these economical prices. saves time and annoyance and its cost — many times over.50. Dress forms are now considered just as necessary just as indispensable to equipment of t . With a dress form which reproduces your own lines perfectly you will be able to get a better fitting garment than if it was tried on yourself. $10. $1. Correct model bust and dress forms at $1. can be adjusted at neck. and YOUR VERY IMAGE in lines and proportions can be reproduced with a Hall-Borchert and Majestic GUARANTEED Perfect Fitting Dress — Form — Every style included Adjustable and Non-Adjustable— of which we show a large variety for every purpose and figure. main floor. $2. a Dress Form of proper size and shape to aid you the form is always ready.00 and $15.making your own gowns there is no way without assistance that you can fit yourself without a Dress Form. and will last a lifetime. etc.50. — — t^ —of trying to see dress fits in the how your back or how —effectively by the use of the skirt hangs with the aid of a looking glass need no longer trouble you if you have a Dress Form of your exact figure. $8.00.e sewing room as the Sewing Machine. have a dress form by all means buy it at The May Co. Hall-Borchert's complete correct Model Adjustable Form is in every way up to date. conforming to any size or shape desired.00.00. $12.. tiresome fittings you change position so often that you are liable to change your lines.50.

One can always procure such a variety of silks. You should secure a Dress Form before attempting to make any of the up-to-date gowns. for and own as well. Dress Forms made and your dealer will gladly demonstrate them to you. should usually be chosen. their All first-class dressmakers desirous of saving their customers' time. braids. whose beauty depend so much upon the graceful lines. that a harmonious. if only a dash of it. most inexpensive gown can be made attractive with well selected trimming. do not go to the first store you happen to pass and take anything that may be presented to you. Cleveland Dress Trimming Company ^ V^ 4 6 Euclid Ave. laces. but take a sample of your goods and go to a first-class dress trimming establishment and ask to be shown suitable trimmings for your goods and often you will find something new and attractive that in the ordinary way would have escaped your atten- The plainest. 1 COVERED tooR DE R ^ ^ of Second Door East Opera House Page 41 . A person with a dull. form. the fitted in the old. and which is impossible to get when you fit yourself We show two of the most reliable reputable without one of these forms. tedious woman (L) DRESS TRIMMINGS. tion entirely. colorless complexion must always study the trimmings and adornment of their costume and some bright color.the entire fit of your gown be of ruined. When you have a gown or suit that needs trimming. suitable and desirable effect can be obtained. are supplied with a dress today has neither the time or the patience to be manner. bands and special trimmings.

F. confusing the one who is up valuable space with unnecessary repetitions. Kirby Building MAIN 1565 No Waiters O'Brien Building MAIN 3914 Lesson 63. Your skirt will never fit smoothly across the back of the hips if you do. or in trying of the stretch the edges 4 — Be —Use belt. The mark which reveals the inexperienced or careless sewer is more quickly and more likely to be seen in the finish of the placket than in any other part of your garment. reference will be made to the specific lesson treating of that particular subject instead of repeating the and over again. both edges of the opening must be faced. that you do not opening of the plackets. P. Page 42 7— In . your placket binding exactly after your pattern. only the best of hooks and eyes. Don't have it too long nor yet so short an opening that you immediately tear open the placket. The bottom of the placket must be made secure on the under side. Do not do it carebut see that your pattern is laid on correctly and pinned securely and that you cut accordingly. Home Cooking No Waiting Prices Reasonable M. careful that every stitch that shows through on the right side be positive 5 and even. just far enough the garment. Luncheon 11 to 2 NEW CENTER LUNCH CLUB 813 Prospect Ave. C. unless perhaps. The following rules must be observed. same general instructions over seeking information and also taking SENSIBLE PLACES TO LUNCH EUCLID CAFETIERE 328 Euclid Ave. 1 — Cut lessly. Wilson Hook and Eye. Stretching these edges means always a full baggy look. to get 2 — Cut easily into it on. upper fold. 3 — Be careful in picking up your skirt. (Lesson the eyes sewed on the under facing and the hooks on the facing of the 53).CHAPTER VII. it be in the making of the buttonholes. SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS In the following lessons we teach you the right way of making each part of a garment and in the succeeding lessons whenever that portion of the article is to be made. your placket opening down exactly the right length. 6 We most highly recommend the notch at the right place on — See that the placket comes to the exact your making a placket.— PLACKETS.

for the draping of waists. 2 With bones ejecting above the belting. 3 With boning above and below the belting to form a pointed bodice into shape. For the Use of Careful Refined Women A A K^ C* A\ T\T l\ T"} ^ AA. If desired the belt or band can then be entirely stitched around.^. If double. cut a straight piece double the width desired. If the belt or band is faced sew the straight strip and the facing together and proceed the same as directed above.— YOKE AND PEPLUMS— A yoke is a very particular part of a garment to make. Healing and Soothing Antiseptic Ever Used for a Douche for Practically All Female Weakness Sanar can be used without fear of injuring the* most delicate or affected tissues as it does not smart or burn and is highly recommended by many of the most eminent physicians in this country. — — — effect.band may be of one piece be of one piece lined or faced.'V K I XI -r Safe Reliable Effective The Wonderful Cleansing. especially as wide belting shrinks from one to three inches to the ward. For sale by all upon leading druggists or mailed to you receipt of 50 cents. but a peplum is much easier especially to fit. Cleveland. Turn over the under edge and hem down to cover the seam on the inside of the garment.— BELTS AND BANDS. Skirts and dresses at present are made with high belt. which is a feature not to be overlooked in wash dresses.^XA. Ohio Lesson 65. have improved this method by offering a seamless shaped belt thoroughly shrunk. For this purpose wide belting is used. for ordinary belting. You can get the Grean Belt in three distinct styles: 1 Having bones as wide as the belting. Turn the top of the folded edge toward the garment and stitch. 2j^ inches wide and fitted by gusset seams and boned Lesson BELTS AND BANDS.A. the Grean Co. A trial will convince you of its merits. 64.— The belt or doubled or may However. No Married Lady Should Be Without This Wonderful Antiseptic SANAR REMEDY 746 Euclid Avenue CO. A peplum is used instead of a belt or band or draw string to hold down at the waist and Page 43 . The object of the bone above the belt is especially useful to unlined or loose linings as some of the material can be draped or attached to boning.

Opposite New Market Page 44 Etc. For the seams. . Cut out (Lesson Baste up. Sew up seams If If either by machine or by hand (Lesson 41). COMF>AMY "Where things are as represented" A GREAT STORE ALWAYS BUSY Prices Always as 5"flK3 Low or Lower Than Elsewhere Dry Goods. be entirely done from the shoulder seams If it The fitting of the yoke must and the small space of the under arm seams. style many the peplum waist. effect fitted. All alterations for the neck seam both on the shoulders and must be made from the shoulder seams only. of the fashionable waists of today the is However. fitting of the peplum all adjustments must be made at the joining is You should be it sure the pattern exactly the right is size about the waist before using. is a part of the of garment and worn outside of the In is such not instances the in peplum must be exceptionally well any and all fitted or the good. peplum — gather the waist or corset cover if it at the yaist line and put on exactly as were a skirt you were attaching. Rugs. Ready-to-Wear. fit and alter (Lesson 77).keep in in proper position the gathers of the corset cover or waist. tight or will Care must be taken that the peplum not made too draw up and wrinkle. West 25th. across the chest in wrinkles let is too tight if or draws out from under the arm and too loose in the neck and across the chest take up the under the arms. but cases a yoke must be most carefully 76). yoke — attach collar (Lesson 66 or 68).

i underpart. Catch the edges of the canvas to the cloth with the catch stitch (see Lesson 11).— HIGH entire COLLARS.' /'-'<> /jVA/ < 'C-'/y /. 10. taking great pains that your stitches do not show any more than you can help and that you have entirely covered the seam of the underpart of the collar and that you have kept an even line. 4 5 6 — Sew —Sew —Sew on all trimmings and ornaments. taking care the stitches do not show through. for the canvas cannot be sewed in the seam with the lining without making it a little bunglesome. Collars" a regular //-^^\ A /i'/""" /A *J'f r'/x'f /'.— Cut out (Lesson 76). Large stitches and an uneven turn of the material of the collar would ruin the appearance of the most beautiful suit. Attach lining of collar to right side of garment and sew down by machine. Then bring the outside material of collar neatly and smoothly down.' ' \ vl | e_ 13C Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Company New York 327-329 East 34th Street.— TAILORED COLLARS. "Tailor /ff.' v/m "-- / ' ' '\ \ * Collar. 8.' . Sew around the bottom edge and the sides and turn right side out. . 4. stitch. but if you wish to try to them yourself the following instructions should be followed: make Cut out exactly after pattern. 3. Accept no imitations or substitutes. on hooks and eyes (Lesson 59). unless you are experienced in tailoring. Lay right side of goods to right side of lining and baste. cutting it out the seam's width from the edges. Press very carefully. The tailored collars are rather difficult to is make 1. turning under the edge and carefully overcast (see Lesson 6). W"-"^ made \ \ so. 2—Turn seams around lining should be of cambric — Hem down with slant - Lesson 66. in collar supports (Lesson 60). Baste in soft pliable French canvas after you have carefully shrunk it. 2. It is not necessary any more to make collars of cloth to match on the ' . Grean for those who find it difficult to shape an<^ ma ke the under-collar. If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealer's. 9. write us. . sufficient 1 in collar to hide lining. \f'i 1 / . being careful to keep the goods and the canvas and the lining always perfectly smooth. so best to buy the under collars ready made. 6.-JJ^C? Made Coat -^i ^hia is . Press again. which if is 3 necessary for the material which you are using. You will find Orean Tailor Made Coat Collars beautifully shaped and pressed. so the canvas will keep . . 7. designed by Mr. We will supply you direct or through a reliable dealer and send you a catalogue of other dressmaking helps. Sew on trimming.--V/ • '. Lesson 67. Men's coats are never and invariably made in ' \ i \\ \ \ \ i /' ' ' ' 1 ' either black or grey cloth.in its proper place. / / ' .'/] . in the A it perfect cut of tailored collars is shown above figure. Tailor-Notch < . * -. 5.

Toledo. 4 — If collar to attach of top to ment turn collar stitch. Price $1. 1899 abilities. perfectly Strictly confidential.— TURN DOWN 1 COLLARS. America. softest. 3 — If lined turn right of lining to right of collar. 5 right right side side edge of to of garment and —Turn — collar under side of edge of and hem down neatly to cover seam. are found throughout Lesson 68.00. Ohio kind in The only incorporated College of Our students and satisfied patrons the United States and Europe. as Your character sketch three above stated and any questions scientifically and answered by mail. 6 If collar is to be left separate turn inside edges and neatly stitch or sew down by hand. or the Page 46 .. business. only If stiffening is necessary use cambric or the finest. and domestic qualities and your physical condition correctly diagnosed. capacities.YOUR CHARACTER SKETCH SCIENTIFICALLY GIVEN By the Expert and Noted Character Readers of the Acme Your perfectly defined College of Science — Incorporated under the laws of Ohio 1907 social Est. personal The Acme College 1714 of Science its Adams St. and is stitch at outer gar- edge. most pliable French canvas and baste it smoothly on the wrong side of the 2 — — Cut out (Lesson 76). 20). using the fine running stitch slant stitch (Lesson (Lesson 5). material.

New York Lesson 69. inside the coat. 7 Baste together cuff and sleeve and sew in securely on machine. the bottom terations. Many beginners think sleeves are the hardest part of the garment to put together. or face.PATENTED SHOULDER FORMS Shoulder Forms are used not for disfigured shoulders. but for garments where a permanent and a good shoulder They add a perfect outline to all shoulders. 15c Per Pair Shoulder forms are made in different outlines. and Construction Guide. — — — — — Lesson 70. page 51. bottom of 6— Find the 5 1 and 3. where the fullness starts. 2 Baste 3 4 — — —Turn down evenly and sew on machine. on and if Try al- necessary make (Lesson 77). and fitters must use their judgment. The ordinary lap closing is made the same as the lap pocket. Page 47 . pliable. They fit is desired. Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. but much of the difficulty is removed if proper care is taken in observing the directions and in- structions and paying strict at- tention to the 1 notches.— Follow instructions (Lesson 69). 4 Hem. . 9 Attach where notches of waist designate. High. if you will begin to fit by first placing the shoulder form in suchposition as you would like to have your coat appear. 1Take a straight strip of the material. in edges of other side. and some are not.— SHIRT WAIST SLEEVE. as to what to use. — — of the sleeve or cuff. Baste to cover seam and sew either by hand or on machine. ends. full- and tack again where the ness being most careful to have the notches come exactly together. gather sleeve. Straight. thin. 3 Sew up seams on machine and press. — Cut out. at the notch where the fullness begins in the sleeve and turning the right of the sleeve to the right of the cuff tack to the notch in the cuff — For No. (Lesson 2— Baste up seams. 327-329 East 34th St. and Sloping. except the opening of the sleeve where cuff is attached must be faced back. (Lesson 48). not noticeable. See Cutting Guide. Mr. to the heaviest automobile and fur garments. page 54. 8 Gather top of sleeve between exact notches. lay right side against right side of goods. 10 Sew in securely on machine.— SLEEVES. (Lesson 53). Some are padded. are basted to canvas and you wA\ save a number of hours of alterations.. Grean has designed special shoulder forms for different weight of garments from the lightest weight silk and taffeta. 76).

• — For upper lap sew on in same manner. 2— For 4 and the stitch. cuff. —The coat sleeve is much simpler as steps exactly according to instructions of Lesson 69. Stitch your goods well over it. If more of the fullness than COMBINATION This AR1VI PAD all fitters Combination Arm Pad. which is so much in vogue now. 34th St. designed for the purpose of correcting the general hollow parts between the Arm Hole and the Bust. underlap put right side of strip to right side of sleeve 3 — Turn back and stitch by machine on both sides of strips. plain The Band Cuffs are put on the same and CUFF— (Shirt They 1 Waist). is an article used always by that have filling ever tried it. are completed before attaching to sleeve. The 1 lap closing as seen in sleeve No. if the material is soft you can press out the material is hard or harsh. COAT SLEEVE.— — Lesson 71. The coat sleeve is made For this purpose the sleeve roll of the Grean Dressmaking Specialties will be found very useful. —Cut two straight strips. — Cut out exactly after pattern. but outside of seam.— LAP CLOSING.. but instead of facing. the bands are cut double width and turned back and hemmed over the seam which joins cuff and sleeve. put damp cloth over and hold down firmly until you have pressed out all the superfluous fullness. CUFFS— PLAIN BAND. except that the top of the flat coat sleeve.— of Lesson 69. and seven are omitted. CUFF. It is very simple in construction. turning the top of strip either with perfectly square corners or in a neat V shape. Baste inside of the sleeve. requires a little soft foundation. The latter is much neater and gives a more tailored finish the top piece of the cuff is sewed into the seam. or you may — Attach sleeve to lining of the cuff and turn back right edge of cuff and If cuff. 327-329 E.. If fill and your dealer cannot supply you. cuff. New York is c Page 48 . and put on edge of pressing board. but a few suggestions mill make it plain just as 6 how 7 awkward for the to make them. 3. 2— lined turn right side of lining to right side of goods and stitch sides and bottom of 3 — Turn right side out and stitch again at the very edge of the —Attach as step 6 (Lesson 69). The cuffs belonging to the sleeves are sometimes a little beginner. 4 5 stitch to than when cover seam. except your cuffs are either are attached at the bottom of the cuffs waist six Lesson 72. TURN BACK Make exactly the same as for shirt made of double length to turn back or instead of at the top. write us and we will either your order or direct you to a reliable merchant. Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co.

dullness of hearing and smell. Such you have in Zoa-Phora Cold Cure. Sewing Apron pockets are made in the same way. For partial list see page 96 of this book. pain in the temples." More suffering comes from neglected colds than from all other causes. Repeat this process until you have firmly secured the slit— then bring the thread through and work over and over. convinced the Doctor that LaGrippe was (from whatever inducing cause) a sudden and general congestion attacking more or less the whole system. tightness at the root of the nose. etc. as seen in Lessons 87 and 107. Then draw your thread from the top mark in a straight line to the bottom mark and back again on the opposite side of the goods. back and limbs sometimes with chilly sensations and nausea— will almost invariably meet and control the disease. The pocket should be of heavy mercerized goods made into a pouch the desired depth. which treatment. letting the needle pass through the entire thickness After a row of stitching has of threads from the bottom mark to the top. symptoms.— Persons suffering thus are martyrs to every change of weather. cough. the Price 50c per bottle The Zoa-Phora Cold Remedy and the Zoa-Phora LaGrippe Remedy are for sale at 50c per bottle at alllfirst-class drug stores. Croup and Protection Against Pneumonia An old proverb says: "Never neglect a fresh cold if you would avoid sickness. is very simple to make. and results. is the only one very much in evidence these days. The most trifling exposure renews the attack.—POCKETS. been made at the bottom and both sides of the lap. brow or cheek. It does not operate on the douche principle merely drying up and washing out the secretions. Cough. Dr. thus preventing a tedious and perhaps dangerous illness. sore throat or nostrils. viz. blurred eyes. slit from tearing into the cloth. Page 49 . Penhad been a careful student of its nature. To keep the follows: Zoa-Phora Cold Remedy (Formerly Dr. Since the tiilly now justly famous ZOA-PHORA LaGRIPPE REMEDY. The patch pocket. and at the same time increasing the severity of the usual symptoms. A NEGLECTED COLD. Back stitch the pouch into the slit of the garment and stitch on the lap. headache.: Sneezing.Lesson 73. Zoa-Phora La Grippe Remedy first invasion of the disease known as LaGrippe in this country. and_ revoice. SoreThroat. A speedy and safe cure is invaluable. except that their outer edge is usually joined in the facing or with the seam of the ruffle. back stitch the pouch into the slit of the garment. and stitch on the lap. Pengelly's Sure Shot) FOR Colds. These investigations. but restores the parts to healthy action. Dr. The lap pocket as shown in the figure of the coat in Lesson 96. throat. ZOA-PHORA COLD REMEDY Its improves the sight and hearing- most remarkable storing the impaired of effect is the clearing of the head. Hem tops and turn in bottom and both sides and stitch on garment. if taken promptly on the first signs of the disease— known by aching of the head. hut showing its greater From these deductions. it should be fastened as Measure one-eighth inch above and one-eighth below the slit and mark. Pengelly was led to formulate force on the weaker parts. together with the use of certain remedies in the treatment of the disease. rendering the disease still more difficult to treat. The lap must be cut on an exact grain of the goods and should be lined with silk or some light material.

Simplex Mop Handle. Shino Chemical Mitten Duster. for a good presser can straighten out a multitude of little defects in sewing and stitching. In pressing folds always see that the fold is perfectly straight. just as a magnet attracts steel. least once. If you are not good at pressing it would be best to baste back your seams in their exact place until you get more accustomed to pressing them in place. especially in making a wool garment. but twice is better. to. lint and germs. while a poor presser can make the most carefully put together garment look badly. Shino Chemical Broom Cover. Much of the beauty of a gown depends upon its pressing. always remembering it is almost impossible to put too much good press work on a garment. Shino Chemical Floor Polisher. Shino articles. or sent postpaid by the manufacturers. Always have a good piece of cotton long enough to cover the entire seam.— PRESSING. with dust.Shino Dust Absorbing Articles Reduces the Labor of Dusting and Polishing One-half. but your goods will Ginghams and stay fresh and in shape long enough to pay for your trouble. linens should be dipped in water in which has been placed a handful of salt. Shino Chemical Handle Duster. Lesson 74. Shino Chemical Dust Mop. When filled makes them The The The The The The The Shino Chemical Dust Cloth. as the result of a marvelous chemical process.— SPONGING AND SHRINKING. all Sold by good dealers. Page 50 . garment to hold its shape better. rinsing in warm water good as new. Wool goods should nearly always be sponged and shrunken as should ginghams and linens. Ohio CHAPTER VIII. Wool goods should be laid right side down and a wet Repeat at ironing sheet placed over it and ironed until it is perfectly dry. Cleveland. This is a slow process. have a hot flat iron conveniently near. Lesson 75. An electric flatiron is a great advantage to the woman doing her own dressmaking. but prevents its spotting and wrinkling so much. r»l| Ine rioneerMrg. wring out and then press until dry. but in case one is not at hand one must always. attract dust. especially anything with a mesh. and in pressing sleeves one should shrink considerable of the fulness that is apt to occur on the inside seam of the arm at the elbow. f*. Dampen and iron till the cloth is perfectly dry then dampen once again and repeat the pressing. Ail 4" f* 522 ° Sweeney Ave. Very thin goods should not be sponged Sponging not only helps your or shrunken.

It shows just how to lay out the pattern on the goods correctly and scientifically. 823 Superior N.— CUTTING GUIDE. just as an expert would lay it out in order to cut it from the least possible material. (See Department 6). By courtesy of the CUTTING GUIDE 4-4/0 SIDE 6ftCK C^ POLO OP 36 INCH MflTERIflL WITH NAP BflO puzzling for hours to find how to lay out the pattern properly.. E. 1 Before beginning see that you have every thing necessary to go ahead. Central 2259-L For prices on any Sewing Machine or Supplies PHONE or CALL on Expert Repairer will Call and Give Estimate Lesson 76. cutting guide a child Review Patterns are error proof and with can lay out and cut a garment as well as an expert. CUTTING. and no Mistakes are impossible with this guide before you. One accompanies every Pictorial Review pattern. we show their patent cutting guide.Main 2189 SEWING MACHINE SUPPLIES AND REPAIRS BRYSON CO. No CUTTING GUIDE 4069 FOLD more than you OF 54 INCH MATERIAL WITHOUT Pictorial NAP' their need. No chance of wasting an inch of material mistakes. No chance of cutting two backs or two fronts because a careless folder picked up two pieces instead of one. — Page 51 . Pictorial Review Co. There is absolutely no chance of cutting one piece the wrong way of the goods.

M. to 2 P. your is thrown out when you start to make alterations. but get your own size otherwise the entire proportion of your garment 2 —Provide yourself style. M.with a good paper pattern for your size and suitable to height and individuality. 622 Prospect Avenue ^n i — i i =ir=i i==i r=i i= ir^=: it=H Cleveland's Finest and Most Elaborate Chinese-American Cafe Shoppers' Novelty FROM 11 Luncheon A. Page 52 . M. After Theatre Parties a Specialty Private Dining Rooms Reserved for Dinner Parties Special Attention Given Ladies without Escorts Our Kitchen is Open for Inspection to Patrons from 11:30 A. Do not make the mistake of buying a pattern a size too large or a size too small. Main-2371-J C— 6417 r £ ar=H r=]G "N \ The Mandarin No. to 2 P.M. and one chosen with due regard for the material to be made up and for the occasion of the wearing of the garment.

4 Iron out every piece of your pattern and identify each section and if there is any doubt in your mind compare it with the similar piece on the construction guide. being most wrinkles either pattern or goods. flowered or have a design see that it all runs in the same direction.. The nap should always rub down except velvet. then it fold. right angle of should rub up. and will save you many possible is — 8— Pin down the pattern. which furnished free with every Pictorial Review pattern. 5 If the garment has a lining cut the lining out first. and if your goods have a nap very strict attention must be given that the grain or nap lie in the same direction. See that every piece is on precisely the — your material as designated on the construction guide. until you have made sure what it is and where it belongs. at prices that are no more and often less than elsewhere Good Values Courtesy Page S3 Progressiveness . for preparation. Striped or plaid materials must be perIf the fectly matched so the strips run into the seams on the same angle. 11 —Then proceed to baste together as is directed in Lesson 77. UnlO LakeWOOd. baste it up and make all necessary alterations of the pattern (Lesson 77). and fit it perfectly 3 If — — — before cutting into the dress goods. Ohio Selling Merchandise that bears the Stamp of Quality. Cleveland . goods are 7 When the width of the goods will permit lay the pattern on the double fur or plush.your goods are wool or gingham or such as need attention follow directions (see Lesson 74). A RELIABLE STORE The Boston Dry Goods 8813-17 Wade Park Avenue 13592 Euclid Avenue 8601 Detroit Avenue 14712 Detroit Avenue Co. 9— When absolutely sure every piece in careful to have it perfectly flat and — errors.-. and ac- cording to the construction guide. This is of vital importance to the success of your garment. no properly laid on cut out with very sharp shears so the goods are not frayed or haggled and under no circumstances fail to cut out every notch indicated on the pattern. 6 Follow exactly the construction guide for laying on your pattern which you have altered to fit your figure. 10 Then with tailor's chalk or with a colored cotton thread run a line showing all the marks and perforations of the pattern.

Williamson Bldg. hours of time. Take Euclid Beach Car to Beach Grove on Lake where all installed Shore Boulevard. ONELLY 120. Cen. The" made with a wide. is shaped seamless belt. write us. according to waist measure. 122 If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealers.. boning. show you Always Page 54 . FITTING AND ALTERATION. #100 down and $10 month buys a lot 40x125 for $750. to be guided by the waist and not by the bust. We will supply you direct.— CONSTRUCTION. 2044 Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. etc. and needs to be fitted only by adjusting the seams above the boned portions and on the shoulders. or the one accompanying your pattern. putting on the hooks and eyes. making of waists. which protrude above the belting and are finished with hooks and This is the new eyes. work and worry can be avoided by procuring the Grean Fitted Waist Linings and Foundations as it saves all of the labor of cutting basting. Grean System of Fitting. specially for the summer or for warm climates. New York Lesson 77. 121. beauboned. get off at East 152nd St. Do not attempt to put your garment together without this construction guide. or through a reliable dealer. It tifully BEACH GROVE improvements are being and homes erected. But if you decide to make your own lining or foundation the following directions must be carefully followed. Main 5283 Ground Floor 327-329 East 34th Street. and the upper part of coarse Net which forms just the right kind of a foundation for light waists. constantly before you for it In the — CONSTRUCTION GUIDE 44JQ SLEEVE SECTIONS 'SIDE will BACK C plainly which pieces to join together and just where to join see that the notches correspond and that the seams are taken up on exactly the line shown and that each portion of your goods is in ar- them." "VOTES FOR WOMEN are not so necessary as 44 Greanet »» LOTS FOR Many WOMEN are buying Invisible Home of them Sites in Waist Foundations Are used in making light weight lace or chiffon waists where a t ght-fitting lining would be out of place.. These are made in Black and White.

It's with another time saver which herringbone belting hooks and the busy operator will surely appreciate. If the garment has a lining. Black or White ^. and make See cut 4410. for it takes time. Boned Girdle A SCREW is DRIVER. r 35c at eyes Don't forget it! The White Rotary means more to you in a sewing way than you can think.«e . Page 55 Sizes 22 to 33 inclusive Waist Measure. Your Dealer BOTH PHONES 426 Prospect Ave. put it together and fit it. for the effect lies in perfect lines and it is impossible to obtain these without good basting. all necessary alterations before cutting into the dress goods. We shall be glad to demonstrate it at any time. but naturally. With a great many Rotary machines in order to remove the Shuttle one has to use a screw driver and take out three screws.American cordance with the diagram of your construction guide... The greatest of care should be taken in the basting up of the seams of your garment.Have rpT?T T TIVT/^'C 1 EEd lULLllMjiS ICECREAM? CONSTRUCTION GUIDE4069 French . Form Made wide of Finished handy tool to have around. For Unlined Waists and Dresses USE Grean Shaped Seamless. White Sewing Machine Co. but with the White you simply a very raise a latch. you don't care to use it unnecessarily. cut it out.

Central Dr. Monks Osteopathic Physician 302 Lennox Building Treatments by Appoin tmen t Res. Bell South 188-L Off. Bell Main 3938 . Margaret B.

which you are following in making the garment in hand and you cannot fail to have a well fitting. two inches below the lower line of the Square or Sloping Shoulders. much of the a hygenic and than absolutely necessary. and gradually slant to meet the side back seams. Gymnasium Open Oct. Begin six inches below the waist line and increase seam gradually until the correct size is obtained about the waist. Begin at the same point six inches below the waist and decrease the size of the seam. and its length adjusted from the bottom or six inches below the hips. carefully but before the outside material is cut into you must know that your pattern and lining are both altered exactly right. as alter. and the same general instructions apply. 1 Boating Bathing Out of Door Life Turkish. and fill in the hollow of the back by sanitary pad. at the hip line of the front and side gores. than to alter the back of the skirt any more Fpr flat — the back seams. 32nd Lake Grove Farm St. —Take arm up a seam. that it is better to take up fullness as possible. however. To alter for large abdomen. Baths Massage Madison. being careful to keep a perfect seam line. Begin six inches below the waist line. 1 Summer Camp Apply to the 1 Open July 1 to June Systematic Exercise and Recreation Young Women's Christian Association Prospect Avenue and 18th Cleveland. Ohio Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister to Sept. Begin six inches below the hip line and gradually take up the seam. between shoulders or across chest or at neck or armhole.To alter for very straight figures. To take up skirt at waist. Electric Light and Shower Rest West Side Branch Franklin and W. After you have properly cut and fit and altered the lining of the waist and measured and adjusted the pattern of your skirt. Ohio Page 57 . If the hips are too small. for if too tight the skirt will wrinkle and draw. you will then be ready to cut into your dress goods. extending each gore an inch at the top. Or if skirt must be enlarged at waist. — — — and backs. Then follow the specific instructions of the lesson. The same general instructions of careful work and perfect fitting and correct alterations apply to the making of all garments. Begin six inches below the hip line and decrease the width of the seam. Skirts must be altered in the seams. If the hips are too large. Begin six inches below the waist line of remembering.If garment wrinkles.. alterations must be made from the shoulder seams and arm hole. hole. well made gown. and let out gradually the seams the deIncrease also the side sired width. edges of the gores. but do not alter any seams to remedy this trouble. Care must always be taken alter To for — — — not to take too large a seam across the hips. except the front and the front edges of the side gore seams. until you have a perfect fit. the necessary width.

dress. telling marks of time. FROWNERS are for the lines between the eyes. SCIENTIFIC BEAUTY CULTURE. THE WELL GROOMED WOMAN. postpaid. and gowns herself to express an innate sense of refinement and good taste. one who exhibits cleanliness. Ohio CLEVELAND. the wrinkles erased and the beauty greatly increased by the nightly application of these well known B. more our duty to ourself as well as to others to be all that is bright and healthy and beautiful. fairy-like figures and a painfully thin woman does not show good teste in wearing stripes and such combinations as are supposed to be worn only by women desiring to reduce the appearance of their size.— CHAPTER woman The well harmony and appropriateness of groomed becomingly fineries is XII. tears or spots are ever visible and no hooks. certain. The skin can be made smooth. & P. but with her If she is inclined to be stout she does not wear plaids individuality and style. leaves no marks. care or culture of that beauty which or less. neatness. CO. The well groomed woman's clothes are never loud or conspicuous and the colors always harmonize not only with the occasion for wearing. Sold at drug and department stores. Both are put up in 25c. handkerchiefs She always has her hair neatly and and neckwear and all her are immaculately clean and no rips. Seventh Floor. dressed —her gloves. These unsightly. or reds or pinks or any of the colors or materials suitable only for slight. on receipt of price. together with an appreciation of the appropriate either with and the beautiful. In fact the well groomed woman studies herself. including booklet on care of face. skin dry and is — Frank Dowd DENTIST LOOK OLD? Wrinkles are only skin deep. safe. contains no chemicals. eyes or buttons ever missing and her shoes are always clean Her skirts always hang evenly and her belt never is out of place or shined. Wrinkle Eradicators. Wrinkle Eradicators Simple. and above all her collar is always in perfect position and neatly fastened fancy pins or with invisible fasteners. OHIO Page 58 .00 boxes. We cannot be this if our livers are out of order and our complexion anything but what we would wish open pores. 50c and S1. If your dealer cannot supply you we will send by mail. Schofield Bldg. Scientific beauty culture means bodily and scientific —that to is. It Mother Nature gave the wisest everyone. at birth. B. which make the face look old and cross are unnecessary— remove them with the Crown and Bridgework a Specialty B. & P. & P. (Two Women) 1790 East 68th Street Cleveland.

withered skins to velvety SUPERFLUOUS HAIR TREATMENT HYGIENIC smoothness.00. Bottle. — MAIL ORDERS FILLED for all preparations and appliances on receipt of cheque. or that the muscles and tissues of the cheeks have become relaxed. pendulous — MRS.00) which cures deep lines between brows. with a line like a big wrinkle. and in consequence there are flabby. ph one G reeley 1 3475 Bond New St.50) lost contour. originated. owned and patented by Mrs. Bottle. to become deeper day by day.00. on looking sideways into our hand glass. lined. GANESH DIABLE SKIN TONIC. PARIS Cambo Cambon MIPP" ll*\_I-. GANESH EASTERN BALM SKIN FOOD $3. 75c.unhealthy a state of neglect that makes the lines wrought by worries. Adair exclusively.50. restores lined. which with maturer years will surely become a hard line between it and our original chin. by antiseptic $2.00. WRITE FOR VALUABLE BOOK containing list of all GANESH Preparations and Treatments and much beauty information and advice. $3. a splendid face wash. $1. TIRED EYE TREATMENT restores tired. discolored eyes to proper smoothness and fulness. corners of eyes and over forehead. LONDON 92 21 West 38th Street. as they reach the CAUSE of all blemishes and re-establish by natural means a healthy complexion. including the Strapping Muscle Treatment. $2. THIS PHOTO PORTRAYS THE GANESH CHIN STRAP ($5. strengthens the skin. Paris and Nice. $6.50. which removes double chin and and the restores GANESH FOREHEAD STRAP ($4. either that a gross ''double-chin" is beginning to form.50. FACIAL MASSAGE. W. $5.00. illness and time. fills lows and removes wrinkles. These Imported Appliances. London. $5. $1.50. $5. sparkling eyes and a youthful contour. holGANESH EASTERN MUSCLE OIL braces sagging muscles. Rue Chauvain REGISTERED TRADE MARK Page 59 . NEW YORK. 75c. $2.50. closes pores and alleviates skin flabbiness and puffiness under the eyes.00. dry skins. $2. Electrolysis is almost painless.00. Sometime we may be rudely awakened by finding. for tender. are the antithesis of "make-up". can be obtained nowhere else in the world. ADAIR'S GANESH TOILET PREPARATIONS AND FACIAL TREATMENTS obtainable for years only at her Salons in New York.00. Faithfully used they accomplish the most wonderful results everything that is claimed for them.

it restores tone to the flabby muscles. rounded contour is maintained in all its attractiveness by the support afforded by the fat beneath it to the skin that lies smoothly over it like unwrinkled satin. 0. in 2462 -J bags. New York. originators.. is All foot troublespermanently relieved by scientific corrections under supervision of a surgeon. Makes skin soft and velvety. adverse climates. 6U0 Madison Ave. absorption of some of this fat takes place.OH ^ > 1VIY FOOT . removing lines. off. of eliminating deep frown lines. which are so clearly and thoroughly explained in the interesting and instructive book. 1V1<i to 6 p. Y. For stores. scientific and constant care. Dr.m. and Mine. sole • Ellsworth. Cleveland Recommended by N. Cleveland. MAUD 716 Permanent Bldg. Stone Prop. DeLONG SKALLA Dermatologist and Chiropodist Page 60 . But when. Personal instructions by D. Mrs.. "How to Retain and Restore Youthful Beauty of Face and Form. Adair at 21 West 38th them — St. hanging on either side of the chin. this even support of the muscles and skin is withdrawn. Creme de Luxe 505 Hours S a. 323 Euclid Ave." which you may have for the asking by mail or in person at the parlors of Mrs. double chin and restoring a youthful contour. yellow or blood-shot eyes are marvelously efficacious. 0. R.. for into place.KJ y- ' _• Creme de Luxe a delightful preparation to use in Does not wear place of powder. Beckman Bldg. and loses its beauty of coloring. Adair's methods of reducing superfluous flesh. raises and gives back the youthful shape and appearance to the face. effective treatment called the Ganesh Strapping Muscle Treatment. FULTON Manicuring and Chiropody Room 604 Standard Bldg. and filling out hollows. Your skin is not a dead thing to be left alone it is a sensative part of you. MRS. No woman need lose the shape of her features nor the grace of her figure if she practices the Ganesh Exercises and Treatment. In youth the soft. Toledo. teachers and the DeLong's Cucumber and Almond Massage Cream Used and recommended by Cleveland's best people. altogether altering the shape of the face and adding years to our age. Huron Bldg. be one of them and Let Me Give You a Sample lar ELLSWORTH COLLEGE 514 Permanent Bldg. Buffalo. N. taught. and the skin falls into lines and furrows. Stone's Shoe Store Send 12 cents sale all for sample. Our everyare graduates where. hollows are formed in cheeks and temples. or any other cause. 0. Ellsworth All Facial of College branches beauty science V. exposed to heat and cold. but nothing has ever met with anything like the instant and entire success of the wonderful. of treating tired. from illness.m. There have been many treatments for the difficulties and for the cure of double chins. it needs skillful. to which so many women owe their rejuvenated appearance. Call owners of Ellsworth System.

but in all of which restores the original brilliancy and lustre to furniture. 25 — Collars. & CO. 15 — Dinner Gowns. pianos. especially if one is preparing their clothes in advance for the season or perhaps arranging for a trip or a visit or for some occasion where a rather complete outfit is needed. Cleveland. Added too to these are the numberless trifles to tains a varnish dries instantly.THE WARDROBE. 0. 20— Housekeeping Gowns. Belts. when the subject of renewing their wardrobe presents itself. 30— Scarf. and least 10 per cent of your entire appropriation for incidental be reserved expend- BAIRD BROS. 13 — Traveling or Street Gowns. 28—Jewelry. 18— Kimona. — Night Gowns. 6— Sanitary Belt. 23 — Hair Dress. Ties. Standard Polish for 35 years. 12— Shoes. — Corset Covers. Large size bottle 25c at your dealers' money should itures supply your needs. — Union Suits. 17 — Negligee Gowns. accessories. Below we give a list which will help you in planning and serve to remind you of the essentials of every woman's complete wardrobe. 16— House Gowns. Conno acid or injurious ingredients. 24— Handkerchiefs. 10— Petticoats. — Evening Gowns. —Furs. must be considered case an incidental cost in you to are planning all on just so much at A few drops on your dustcloth does the work. — numerous mention. Page 61 . Mamma" 4 5 11 14 19— Bath Robe. —Sanitary Skirt Protector. 22— Millinery. 21 — Aprons. —Hosiery. hardwood finish and hard- Polishes and wood floors. 9 — Corsets. 8 — Brassieres. — Chemises. 1 2 3 "Never Mind. Often one does not know when to begin. 7 — Drawers. 27 — Coats. 26 Monarch Polish Not will fix it 29—Veils.

So much depends upon this one point. and that is a are most unwill unless properly constructed not stay clasped or will not hold the napkins in place. Wright & Sons Co. send us his name and 25c for sample belt. New York City Page 62 . you are unable to procure it from your dealer.. for unless your corset fits your individual figure. — We A Standard Pattern with our improved "Never-Slip Clasp" ( Patent Applied For ) Requires No Safety Pin Easily Adjusted in sizes Absolutely Secure Made 22 ins. Webbing at Front and Back Wm. your article in — not fit perfectly. it allows entire freedom and full expansion to the chest. to 48 ins. that There is one small as article no woman should be they without but they either belt Sanitary Belt. lungs. N. neither will the most expensive. heart In other words it will allow one to dress according to the and stomach. and while supporting the bust. that the choice and judgement of the most experienced corsetiere should be consulted. F Manufacturers For Comfort 40 Lispenard St. in fact the foundation of your entire appearance to say nothing of your health and comfort lies in the well fitting corset. & N. instead of pressing it down. If sizes 22 inches to 48 inches inclusive. gown will (C) SANITARY BELTS. POSTPAID. of fastening and your outfit not complete without a belt of this have carefully examined the W. carefully made garment look its best. latest styles. for the fit of your gown carriage. as it does not constrict the waist and is designed and cut on the idea of supporting the abdomen.&N. Ladies Improved Sanitary Belt and we have found no better on the market. your entire wardrobe that should be given more There is no the grace of your careful attention than your corsets. but without the torture. Sizes of Belts are actual waist measure. but a well made can not only be worn with comfort but can be easily adjusted and will prove secure. there are satisfactory.(A) CORSETS. Order large enough to drop well down over hips. like many other corsets do. many makeshifts on they are the market. Dept. B. inclusive. We at all times recommend the Berthe May "Hygie" corset as we find its hygienic and physical advantages cannot be disputed. E. At All Dealers "W." High Grade Elastic Ladies' Improved Sanitary Side. the same as with any ordinary corset. are but few more ruinous habits than the use of safety pins and is There improvised methods character.

s that it cannot be ex elled for com ort. and theatrical The excellent material used guarantees its wearing is made in medium large size selling at Price 50c. The Ama Sanitary Skirt Protector has so many c salient featur. It is absolutely waterproof. CLARENCE BUILDING CLEVELAND. tourists. women. made with lace net yoke affording perfect ventilation and can be readily laundered. nurss people it is almost indispensable. as flexible as fine linen. Call and let us demonstrate this article to you. 1908 This garment and This article is fully protected Sanitary Skirt protector will be mailed to any address in the receipt of price the Upon Ama by patent. O. but have never before been able to secure in an ideal form. We recommend the skirt protector as one that will give entire satisfaction. and press it and always have it in perfect condition. The Ama Sanitary Skirt Protector is an article especially desirable for the present dress. Always recogour United States.(C) SKIRT PROTECTORS. for one is never safe at certain times to wear their gowns and dainty underwear. have doubtless often realized. sanitary skirt protector a necessity to A AMA PSmmfW^ An article every is *^&™ woman will of welcome market THERE now on the the needa ready-to-wear which you wardrobe acce:sory. 117 purchasing. 22nd. fit and durability. $1.00 each qualities. nize trademark before A1VIA CO.00 and $2. is every woman's wardrobe. If you get a good one you can wash unless a sure protection is afforded. less Beware of worthimitations. odorless. For misses and business ladies in mode summer of ladies' attire or evening dress. THE AMA Sanitary Skirt Protector Patented Sept. Page 63 . nmde of a high grade white rubber muslin.

Price 15 Cents. with so much pleasure at one's leisure time if handy with the needle. S. practical. but the majority of women Waist Cannot Be Displaced pyramid "Units" grip and keep waist from riding up. 15 E. feathers and flowers. should wear a waist supporter in order that a good about the waist can always be relied upon. hat for business. chemise. effect There is no better (F) LINGERIE. on receipt of price.ARBORj TEA SHOP Earner flat ^oppe where 6541 Euclid Avenue Exclusive Models in Dress and Tailored Hats. style and setting of one's face and features. elastic sides. 17th St. sent postpaid. New York Page 64 . but great care should be used that the selection be one that exhibits taste. and if possible hand embroidered in any of the beautiful designs which can so easily be procured and done. held in by patented " loop.. The night gown. corset covers and drawers should be of dainty muslin or fine linen. at back. Every careful dresser. No sharp points to hurt fingers. the street or traveling should be selected of one of the soft plain shapes with simple trimming. Simple. gown as the waist There is nothing that ruins the entire appearance of a out of place above the belt line or perhaps showing a dividing line between the skirt band and the waist line. Metal parts cannot rust. great improvement over old style belts. but for church and theatre wear one A may branch more elaborate and trimmed effects and can satisfy and decoration of ribbons. 1/ not at dealers. when wearing a waist that is separate from the skirt. CORNER SUPERIOR AND 105TH THE WARNER HAT SHOPPE considers it possible for every woman to have an Individual Style A Gift all Shop and Tea Room can be found Novelties in Art and Needle Work (D) MILLINERY. skirt supporter on the market than is shown below. Price 15 Cents at Department Stores AGENTS WANTED DAVID BASCH. Many make these garments entirely by hand. Dept." take double hold without undue pressure. both French and Domestic. off into the their eye as to color (E) SHIRT WAIST SUPPORTERS. Little rubber The "LOOP-HOLD" Shirtwaist BELT corrects a common fault in dress. Self-acting buckle stays put. refinement and a respect for the shape. graceiul. Pat'ee &Mfr.. Even though the edging and insertion be of fine lace or embroidery it will greatly add to the beauty of the garment to have at least a small floral design of hand work.

be a cloth a rain-proof fabric of "Cravenette" proof is a process which The process permeates every fibre renders a cloth or garment water-proof. rendering the cloth permanently rain-proof, and rain will then of the yarns, You can have your coat, suit, wrap, or neither wet nor spot the garment. motoring garments made from the Priestley Cravenette Cloths, and you will If you are obliged to be out in all kinds of find your needs perfectly met. weather, rain or shine, you should by all means have a "Cravenette" rain-coat. We specify "Cravenette," because a genuine Cravenette-proof coat contains no rubber, is porous to air, yet rain-proof and has not the disagreeable odor common to most raincoats, and too, there is not the stiffness of the material, which renders many of the rain coats so undesirable and unattractive. The Cravenette-proof process leaves the cloth just as supple as before and every The main point to bear in fibre of the yarns is made thoroughly rain-proof. mind is to get a rain-coat that is strictly hygienic, keeping the dampness out without preventing ventilation. However, if you are only out in an occasional sprinkle or shower, a rain-coat is unnecessary, but you should have a street
to

(G) RAINCOATS AND people imagine Cravenette some sort but such is not the case.

WATERPROOF GARMENTS.

Many

or business or traveling suit

made

of

any of the Priestley cloths of serviceable
twill,

and wearable mohair suitings, serge, chevoit, whipcord, etta, which you can get "Cravenette" proof.

taffeta,

henri-

How
•/.
BE6USPAT OFF.

to Tell

This circular

registered trademark
l

Silk y^^y^pti^^fiyci^ Labe

is

stamped on the inside and a sewed at the collar or elsewhere.
is

None Genuine Without Them
The )££L~,.
all

applied to many kinds of cloth suitable for outer garchildren's men's, women's and ments in light, medium and heavy weights for seasons of the year, and are for wear in rain or shine.
-4Sf
is

" Rain Will Neither

Wet Nor Spot Them."

They con t ain no Rubber, have no

disagreeable odor; will not overheat or cause perspiration.

For sale by leading dealers in Men's, Women's and Children's Clothing.

t^Q^/ft2^t§#., Lt4
Bradford, England

K&4a*wwfit&t^.,USA
Hoboken, New Jersey

(^
A
postal to the

^^%/yy^
Bradford, England

New York

office of

B. Priestley

&

Co., 100 Fifth Avenue, will bring interesting booklet.

Page

65

A DROP OF OIL
is all

right in

its

place, but

it's

an

annoyance, and more than that, when it gets on goods that you are anxious to keep clean. The oil cup on the White Rotary prevents all trouble of the kind. It's a trifle, but

by attention to the little things that make the White Rotary the very best machine you can buy. Our terms will surprise you by their
it is

reasonableness.

White Sewing Machine Go.
426 Prospect Ave.

BOTH PHONES

Lesson 78.— CORSET

COVERS.— Cut

out

(Lesson

76),

of

embroidery,

nainsook, muslin, sheer lawn, linen, or any thin fine material.
tucks (Lesson 54). Join seams with French seam (Lesson 47).

Make

Hem Hem

fronts.

peplem and

fit

Gather at waist line son 64). Finish neck and armholes with embroidery scallops (Lesson 22), or face on right side with very fine embroidery. See Lesson 53.) Embroider any desired design (Lessons 19-25 inclusive). Make eyelets and run in ribbon to hold in fullness (Lesson 25). Close with small buttons and buttonholes (Lessons 29-30).

(Lesson 65). and make band of goods or of beading for belt (Les-

Lesson

79.— DRAWERS.

Cut out (Lesson

76).

Join with either plain or French seams.

(See Lessons 41 and 47.)

Face both sides of opening (Lesson Face around top for belt (Lesson
Put on
ruffle

53).
53).

(Lesson

56).

Make buttonholes (Lesson 27). Sew on buttons (Lesson 30).

Page 66

have not the time to put so much personal labor on their wardrobe, but the character of a woman is more easily discerned by the daintiness, prettiness and completeness of her lingerie, than by the beauty or elaborateness of her best gowns.
In France, a bride has never less than 12 pieces of each article of underwear beautifully done by hand work and exhibited with great pride to all her
friends.

buying and making these garments that your lingerie with care will last for many years to come, and you can afford to put more time and expense on them than on your outside garments that change style, color and design to suit every whim and caprice of fashion.

Remember

in

Lesson 80.— CHEMISE. Procure a good chemise pattern and make exactly as instructed in (Lesson 79), on the making of night gowns.
Lesson 81.— NIGHT GOWN. Cut out (Lesson 76). Join with dainty French seam (Lesson Embroider neck and edge of sleeves (Lesson 22), or fact on the right side with any desired trimming of embroidery or lace fine (Lesson 53). Embroider desired design. (See Lessons 19 to 25 inclusive).

47).

Make eyelets (Lesson 25) neck, and draw about through ribbon to adjust
fullness.

Hem

(Lesson

48).

Lesson 82.— COMBINATION UNDERGARMENTS. Cut out (Lesson 76). Fit carefully (Lesson 77). Join all seams with French seams (Lesson 47). Set in yoke (Lesson 65). Put on beading and edging (Lesson 57). Sew on ruffle (Lesson 56). If for open drawers face both sides of opening (Lesson 53). Close with small buttons and buttonholes (Lesson
29-30).

3275

Page 67

The material can be of large figured silk. soft flannels or in fact almost any pretty Have your negligee gowns as attractive as your skill fabric may be used. house and evening gowns. East 135 1738 East 55th Street Cut out (Lesson 76). Make buttonholes (Lesson 29). business and traveling gowns. lawns. and means will permit. DRESSING SACQUES AND KIMONAS. Parrish Funeral Director Bell Phone. Face top (Lesson 53). GUI Chapel in Connection Jay P. challie. silk. fleece lined goods. heatherbloom or even a good quality of sateen is preferable. QBE Lesson 84. for it is the dainty feminine expression of lingerie and negligee garments that expresses the refined womanly tastes and will prove of pleasure to you so long as they last. dimities. Have plenty of white skirts plain or elaborate to match your other lingerie of your outfit. and where the fullness commences make a slit on each side and insert a tape. Face upper edge of the garment (see Lesson 53). Join seams (Lesson 41). but have them made the proper length to wear with your For your sireet.Lesson 83. Hem (Lesson 48).— SKIRTS AND UNDERWEAR WITHOUT PLACKET.— PETTICOATS. Page 68 . Join ruffle (Lesson 56). drawing it through the slit on the opposite side. Stitch the facing down securely. Sew on buttons (Lesson 30). The slit should be carefully worked with the button hole stitch (Lesson 24).

LADIES! Why

not go to the

"Shop

of

Kimonas and Art Laces"
ONE-HALF
Call At
before buying ?

and Save

150 The Arcade
And
See Our Beautiful Designs and Get Our Low Prices

Lesson 85.— DRESSING
Cut out (Lesson
76).

SACQUE.

Lay Sew

pleat in back.
all

seams.
48).
56).

Hem

bottom (Lesson
ruffles

Gather on

(Lesson
53).

Face collar (Lesson
Shirr
sleeves
at

elbow and shirr around

waist (Lesson 55), and finish with dainty
of bright ribbon at the waist.

bow

3591

Lesson 86.— KIM ON A.

Cut out (Lesson

76).

Sew

all

seams on machine.
48).

Hem

bottom of garment (Lesson

Make yoke and attach (Lesson 65). Make sleeves and put in (Lesson
5-8).

69,

omitting

Face edges and sleeves (Lesson

53).

The

facing should be of satin or

some

contrast-

ing shade of the same or a lighter material.

Q^FDon't
on
-page 4-

overlook the

new

scientific drugless treatment

explained

Page 69

Lesson 87.—APRONS.

Aprons are the simplest of all garments to make, No. 3857 is especially easy to make. Cut out goods (Lesson 76). Face all edges (Lesson 53). Make pocket (Lesson 73)." Make one buttonhole and sew on button (Lessons 29-30).

No. 3180 requires a little more time and effort. Cut out (Lesson 76). If embroidery for ruffle, bib and pockets is not used hem ruffle (Lesson 48). Face bib and pockets (Lesson
53).

Put on ruffle (Lesson 56). Put on pockets (Lesson 73). Gather and join bib to skirt of
apron.

Put on band (Lesson 64).
385?

KlL UNSTRUNG-

Is This the

Condition of

Your Nerves?

Is that the condition of your nerves? If so, your system is just like the violin shown above; utterly unable to perform the work for which it was intended. Until there is an improvement in these conditions, there is no chance for harmonious action between the various organs of the body. The office of the nervous system is to control and direct the vital forces. If the nerves are not strong, healthy and in proper tone they cannot do this work any more than can the violin give forth sweet and melodious music when "all unstrung."

You Do Not Need

mmk

Is
is

a Nerve STIMULANT, But a NERVE Food. a Nerve Food and Strength Builder.

At the same prepared especially to build up and strengthen the nervous system. time it purifies the blood and regulates the circulation, so that the nerve centers may distribute the vital forces to the organs in need. If you'are only slightly nervous, you ought to take ZOA-PHORA at once and thus thwart the onward march of the disease. If your nerves are already in such a shattered condition that they are threatened with nervous prostration, ZOA-PHORA will give you relief and strengthen your nervous system.

Read Page

95 for the Special

ZOA-PHORA

Oiler

Page 70

Lesson 88.— LINGERIE WAIST. Choose your pattern and
follow the instructions of

Lesson
shirt

90,

on

waists,

altering

making by

selecting the

desired design and effect and mak-

ing according to
Sleeves, Lesson 69 or 70.
Collars, Lessons 66, 67 and 68. Yoke, Lesson 65. Trimmings and Finish, Lessons 54, 57, 58 and 62. If a Lining is desired make according to Lessons 76 and 77.

40S5

Lesson 89.— HOUSE KEEPING GOWNS. Your house keeping gowns should be of percale or gingham or some wash goods so that at all times you can be immaculately clean. Have them made plain and simple so they can be easily gotten into and also have your aprons large, and of a material that washes neatly. Use instructions (Lesson 76), taking steps according to numbers; X-l, X-5, X-7, X-8, X-9, X-15. Then put on facing about sleeves, neck and down front and belt (Lesson 53). Now hem skirt (Lesson 48). Sew on buttons and make buttonholes (Lessons
29-30).

"It's

Easy to Pay the Rosenblum Way"

STYLISH GOODS Woman
For Man,
or Child

$1.00

PER WEEK

pays the bill

WE GIVE STAMPS
We Make Good Unsatisfactory Purchases We Never Misrepresent
GIVE US A CALL

M. Rosenblum

Credit Clothing Co.

2014 Ontario St. Cor.^hamplain
Mr. Rosenblum Himself

Page

71

Jewelry. Shoes. 1 Cut (Lesson 76). 3 Fit and make any necessary alterations (Lesson 77). The quality of our merchandise is the best and our guarantee of absolute satisare not in the faction is given with every sale. Suits.— SHIRT WAIST. front and back. — GOWNS. Upstairs Lesson 90. We do not have any collectors. and leave collar loose. you cannot fail to develop your Page 72 . pays for both at all stores where they give them). 2 Join with plain seams (Lesson 41). All Goods Sold on $1. Skhts. Coats. turning to the specific lesson as indicated.00 a Week Payments Complete furnishers — Hats. and attach or put on neck band (Lesson 64). 8 Make collar (Lesson 66). growing by leaps and bounds. — — — — — — Hem the underside of the front closing. — Gather at waist 5 7 line in and attach a belt or stitch bias band to hold gathers secure. and stitch on both sides of pleat. Hundreds of are added to our already large patronage every is There We We is a Reason — High Rent District. do not handle any premiums nor give trading stamps (the customer. CLEVELAND CREDIT CLOTHING Over Atlantic CO. —We will give directions for making gown 4533 as contains nearly every element and requires the explanation of nearly all points of dressmaking.—A shirt waist is something it seems no one has too many of they are so useful and so necessary for so many occasions and can be constructed of such a variety of fabrics and in such a wide range of styles. & Pacific Tea Company's Store 2165 Ontario Street. etc. Waists. 6—Make sleeves and attach (Lesson 70). 4 Form box pleat in right front. 9 Lesson it 91. — — Make buttonholes and sew on buttons (Lesson 29-30). Our operating expenses are low. By following these instructions carefully and faithfully. Dresses.There Must Be a Reason Why our business new customers month. of course.

Ptawi 3fttBtrufitum .

find that she considers "home" to be the city. are written by experts and their information is practical and daily useful. a necessity in every home. 59). The household departments in PICTORIAL REVIEW.16 17 — Face bottom of skirt (Lesson —Sew on hooks and eyes (Lesson 53). tasty dishes described in PICTORIAL REVIEW'S COOKING DEPARTMENT. marketing. materia! Any ornamentation suitable to the occasion to be worn may be used. in life insurance which cares for her REVIEW We We when the bread-winner is suddenly taken away. The May Co. and in harmony with the an evening gown the upper portion of both lining and material of the waist can be cut away. housekeeping. For To be Dressed Styles in the Latest Fashion Select Your from the Season's Number The PICTORIAL REVIEW FASHION BOOK For sale by The May Costs only 5c When Purchased with a 15c pattern For sale by Co. REVIEW The Pictorial Chicago Paris Review Company St. its ideas will save much more than the cost of the magazine for a year. Charming Lingerie Frocks Smart Street Toilettes Afternoon Dresses in Foulards and Taffetas New and Fascinating Evening Gowns An Alluring Assortment of Lace Blouses in the New Casaque and Peplum Styles The PICTORIAL REVIEW is not wholly a fashion magazine although it carries more and better styles than any fashion magazine published. home decoration. With these departments before you a magazine devoted wholly to housekeeping is a needless extravagance. and in many other subjects which are of vital importance to her daily living. In short. in the politics which make taxes high and her rent accordingly higher. plain. She is very properly interested in the schools which her children shall attend. state and nation in which she lives. They make the so-called "fiction-magazine" unnecessary. believe that the real American woman does not consider "home" to be just the house in which she lives." It covers every range of woman's activity completely. special articles in PICTORIAL are on subjects of interest to women. She is looking for more information constantly and PICTORIAL furnishes that knowledge. The up-to-date American housewife is a thinking woman. 39th NEW YORK Page 74 . departments on cooking. It is Its suggestions. You had better subscribe now and find out about our magazine and our patterns. making as low or as high cut gown as desired.. New York London Headquarters: Louis Berlin San Francisco Vienna St. The fiction stories in PICTORIAL RE- VIEW The are equal to the very best you can get anywhere. If you wish to please your husband's palate just give him some of the good.. 222-224-226 W. PICTORIAL REVIEW is "The Magazine for Women. etc.

for a season 30. . elegance or elaborateness. Every wardrobe should hold as many evening gowns as the individual will have need of. 'Make exactly according to Lesson 91. when the same amount of money expended in two or three simple evening frocks would have constantly served to the pleasure and needs. but for younger women prettiness and daintiness and attractiveness should be the aim rather than richness. or as magnificent as her station in life demands. Lesson 93.Lesson 92. Select carefully your materials with a view of perfect keeping with social demands and associates. and they should be as simple. and the panel is used instead of the — GOWN — all-over flounce. except the breteile is crossed in the front instead of the back. Main . as often too elegant evening gowns lie your unused and unenjoyed. For making see Lesson 91.—EVENING AND DINNER GOWNS. yet sometimes the other extreme is met. and a number of cheap inappropriate useless garments purchased when one good garment of a more suitable nature would have been a better investment. Phones 4598 Central 1379-W .

Boarding Home Transient Accommodations Employment Bureau Travelers' Aid .

gether and some tailors use fronts of canvas prepared separately to fit the outside. but a tailored made coat front. If your dealer cannot supply you write us immediately. them in medium weight variety to suit tailor suit.. made of white French felt and edges of the best herringbone hair-cloth used for center stiffening. you will find a Grean patented Shoulder form. but well tailored and firm enough to support and retain shape permanently. it will be a good lesson and example to study Grean ready made and tailor- made make coat front foundation. 50c to $1. which the cloth is placed. They in are a made variety upsuit to-date styles to different coats. in the shoulder. must have more in it than an ordinary piece of canvas without preliminary preparations of careful sponging and shrinking. and at the top.Lesson 96. which can be purchased for much less than one can Accept no imitations or substitutes. New York Page 77 . a wide button hole stay runs the whole length of the coat.Made' ' Coat Front Foundation By examining the drawing alongside which shows the inside view of the Grean Tailor-Made Coat Front Foundation. The present styles demand soft coat fronts. They are all very soft and pliable. They are made of the best material appropriate for this purpose and are thoroughly sponged and shrunk. in and renders it unfit to be used your garment. for a tailormade coat or jacket. from the lightest silks to the heaviest automobile garments.— CLOAKS AND SUIT JACKETS. from the short Eton coat to a 32 inch length coat so much worn now. you will notice that it is It is not only a foundation over a complete coat front.. but the difference Some tailors sew cloth and canvas tolies chiefly in preparing the fronts. 327-329 E. These tailor-made coat front foundations are made in different weights and lengths. but it is also part of a pattern by which one can be safely guided. "Tailor. will find coat. The foundation for the front of your coat or jacket is very important. themself. Tailor-Made Coat Fronts Foundations are distinguished by their beautiful shaping and tailoring and every season the shapes change according to the prevailing To those who have found difficulty in making coat fronts for themfashions. are protected with a white linen stay. A good sized arm-pad surrounding. 34th St. but you can detect cheap worthless coat front foundations by their stiffness. lightweight silk or velvet Grean suits and fur garments. There are several methods of making jackets and coats. all heavy winter selves.00 GREAN SHOULDER FORM & PAD CO. You requirements. to will make find a Those who are unable good tailor made front Grean's Tailor Made Coat for Front Foundations to be almost a necessity. which is usually nothing but glue.

press and sew turning in the lining to 13 — Make collar and attach (Lesson 67). No work or stitches should be left visible on the lining. 1 1 5). IS — Again press the entire garment. NEW YORK — Baste ready in these bust forms of hair cloth or soft canvas. 14 — Make sleeves (Lesson 72). (Lesson 73). nicely finished garment and the saving of doing this work yourself will allow you to put extra money into a better grade of material than otherwise you could choose or you can practically buy the goods for another suit. 327-329 East 34th St. 3). GREAN SHOULDER FORM & PAD 6 CO. 16—The trimmings can then be sewed on. 35 to 50c 50c lost its original shape. 9 When an exact fit has been obtained detach from lining. You can purchase made at any of our advertisers carrying Grean dressmaking supplies. 5 Short Coat-Fronts Short Coat Front. sew up seams in desired manner (Lesson 41). and press seams open. — 8 Baste goods over lining and try on and fit perfectly (Lesson 77). write us. made of Hair-Cloth. all 77). strict attention to the By paying Page 78 . —Make buttons and buttonholes (Lessons 29 and 30). above directions you will be able to work out a well fitting. 10 11 — — — Make and put pocket — Put in lining right side in 5). out and attach with very small slant stitches (Lesson 12 cover the seam. for much of the beauty of the coat or cloak depends upon this part. We will supply you direct or through a reliable used in garments where a coat front of canvas has been already used but has is extensively altering dealer and send you a catalogue of other dressmaking helps. beautifully shaped and used in either short coats or long coats where only bust reinforcing is necessary and If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealer's. in.no more particular work in dressmaking than the proper tailoring of a jacket or coat and you should never attempt to make one of these garments in a hurry. 7 Join seams of lining. 2 5). There is 4 — Lay on goods (Lesson 76— to — Cut out lining (Lesson 76— 3 — Baste up lining seams (Lesson — Fit and make necessary alterations (Lesson —'Cut outside material (Lesson 76—6-11).. and press (Lesson 75). in any style or manner desired.

The herself outfit an expectant mother prepares for entirely depends upon what her duties all require of her during this period. has been found. MICHIGAN. MATERNITY OUTFIT. Beware of dangerous imitations that contain mineral and poisons and which have'no established fifty reputation. Proprietors. Ten days' treatment will convince you that no matter how serious your condition a positive relief Sample free upon request. reliPRICE. P^t^£L. The Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing KALAMAZOO.ZOA-PHORA Antiseptic Vitalizing CONES Are for local treatment and are antiseptic in their action on Diseased Tis- sue and Unhealthy Conditions. ZOA-PHORA CO. ^6. CHAPTER XIII. Page 79 . safe. The Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones have in the past years permanently relieved thousands upon thousands of women and the price of a month's treatment for 50 cents makes them within the reach of all. Read on the last page of this book your druggist' special offer to you of a free ten days' treatment of these Cones. They contain Nerve Tonics ANTISEPTIC which are absorbed into the Blood and VITALIZING COHES Give Vitality to the Whole System. Cones are a female suppository.. 50 CENTS. as not only the appearance. L able and effective. but the comfort of the individual to a large extent depends upon these two things. but in in- stances the clothing must be loose and comfortable and both the dress and underwear should be Special attento supported tion from the shoulders. a tated parts. must be given the matter of corsets and the lining of the gowns. They allay Inflammation and heal the irri71.

BERTHE MAY. to be used whenever needed. The most celebrated maternity corset that has come to our notice is the Berthe May "Lucine" corset. Mfr. Prices from $5. in a normal condition.BERTHE MAY'S Maternity Corset The only corset of this kind made for its own purpose. as her own health and that of her child would be materially injured by such a course. on account of the healthy support which it gives both the abdomen and to the back. as it can be worn at any time. through a system of inside plaits of the material. The Lucine corset can be made gradually larger when wanted. Orders by mail filled with absolute satisfaction because of my perfect yet simple measurement system. as well as during the maternity period. thanks to its exclusive and It procures an absolute simple system of gradual enlargement.. It is manufactured to be an absolute safeguard against all accidents for the mother as well as for the child. and it can be reduced to a normal size and worn as long as desired after the child is born. 46th St. which can be opened successively when more room is needed. A maternity corset must combine as an abdominal support and a corset in fact it must be a protection to the abdominal walls against too great relaxation and yet must serve to give grace to the figure and to make it possible for her to go about and be active during the entire period. and yet with its own particular advantages. thus affording the comfort and safety so necessary in a weakened condition of the abdomen. No — Page 80 . Every woman should have this corset in her wardrobe. New York (98)— MATERNITY CORSETS. expectant mother should go without a corset. and to attend to her customary vocation during the whole term of her pregnancy. Physicians use it in their own families aud prescribe it to their patients. and upon examination and investigation we find that the "Lucine" corset is so constructed that it can be worn as early as wanted. 15 Which will b. enables women to dress as usual. to deport herself with the greatest comfort. sent under plain envelope.00 to $18. and allows the mother to dress as usual. the same as an ordinary corset. abdominal support at all times. 10 E. to preserve a normal appearance.00 Write for free booklet No. to preserve a normal appearance and to attend to their every -day vocations. together with photographic reproductions and full information. but she should never wear the ordinary style and cut..

druggist today ana procure a month's treatment before your No matter disease becomes more deep seated and chronic. maternity skirt is cut after a special maternity skirt pattern. and an extenskirt making. Lesson 100. for making. The instructions found in Lesson 91. Make lacing. 50 CENTS. Accept no substitute. Ohio full line of druggists who handle the Zoa-Phora Remedies Page 81 . PRICE. The opening down is the front shoulder is hemmed back. Proprietors. but it is seamed and faced and finished the same as given in the regular lesson on It should have a good sized pleat at each seam.. necessary. REMEDY— known See page 96 for ZOA-PHORA REMEDIES COMPANY. Cleveland's best Toledo. Instead of making starting in the usual way the lining has dart seams from the shoulder and the center of the neck. MICHIGAN. reliable and satisfactory treatment. will forever convince you that to suffer with this disease is positively unGo to your Pull directions in each package. falls is eyelets (Lesson 25) on both sides of all three openings. tion at the top for lengthening front and sides. how serious your case you will find the ZOA-PHORA PILE the one safe.— MATERNITY SKIRT. and a very pliable. A IT /*phOHA (Trade Mark.Lesson 99. except the lining is finished altogether differently. 3916. See cut of lining at top of Fig.) QA~rt X REMEDY CO. is arms where there but little Allowance must be made that enough goods left at the top of the skirt to extend the front and sides will as the figure demands in order that the skirt hang evenly all way around. Sample sent FREE upon request. See instructions (Lesson 76).— MATERNITY GOWN. easy stretching elastic band is used for the belt. and extending to the bottom of the waist lining. and lace down with linen or elastic The band from which rather loosely fitted is the front of the skirt from exactly under the necessity to enlarge. - Zoa-Phora Ten minutes of this Pile Remedy PILE ZOA-PHORA KALAMAZOO. list of of time and 50 cents for a full month's treatment well-known meritorious effective Remedy. and the dart seams either side from the shoulder faced back (Lesson S3). make this gown perfectly.

nervous. To the girl after her who is away from home wardrobe we have made out a most useful in list or the one without a mother to look of necessary articles and you will find the list planning your wardrobe. — Shoes. 12— Hair ornaments. — Combination corset 1 combination 3 covers and -WOMAN'S FRIEND FOR drawers. 9 — Church dress. enrich 4— Handkerchief s. 15 —Collars and ties. 20— Cloak. — Hosiery. — House gown. suits. Get your shoes of sensible style and thickness and large enough to be comfortable regardless of the season or fashion. Special attention should be paid to your corsets. while you are growing you can seriously injure yourself and your health. 16 17 Read our Special Offer Page 96 of this Book. opiates. for during the pliable age. All of your garments should be simple and Page 82 . THE SCHOOL GIRL'S WARDROBE. 19 — Sweater. especially~compounded to purify and the blood. 8— School dress. narcotics or other dangerous or harmful drugs. — Light warm woolen 2— Under vests. You will find on the following pages suggestions of appropriate styles for your gowns. 1 vate prescription for women. 4 5 Growing Girls For over 50 years Zoa-Phora has proven an invaluable remedy to meet the needs of weak. Pengelly's pri- 13— Millinery. Zoa-Phora is Dr. together with complete instructions for the making of them and if you are a wise girl you will begin with the first lesson of this book and master every point of plain and fancy needlework for it is one of the most refined acquirements possible for a gentlewoman to attain. 6 7 — Petticoats. purely a vegetable compound no alcohol. 10 — Party dress.CHAPTER IV. build up the tissues^strengthen the nerves and put the entire constitution in harZoa-Phora is monious condition. 21 — Furs. belts and acces- sories. for every girl entering womanhood. as it will give you all the beautiful curves and angles without the discomfort and danger of the modern corset. 11 —White petticoats. 18— Corset waists. sickly girls and women. — Bath robes. We would recommend the Berthe May "Hebe" Corset. by wearing a badly fitted corset. — — Night gowns. Do not make the mistake of going without sufficient underwear and of a quality to give you sufficient warmth and have all of your lingerie plain and dainty.

Remember immaculate. Follow instructions for making as found in LesGirl's dresses are The son style 91. dainty garments will win for you a thousand fold more admiration than magnificent. GIRL'S DRESSES. CLEVELAND. whose natural charms are beginning to wane. Skirt (Lesson 95). Lesson 102. as nothing is more unattractive than rich elegant garments worn by a sweet faced girl.girlish.— ting GOWN if 3911. 32nd Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister Choral Classes Bible Classes Page 83 . party and summer dresses. omit- hemming. and without collar Lesson 101. OHIO West Side Branch Franklin and W. Collar (Lesson 63). the material if embroidery omit omit Xll. Follow instructions for (Lesson 89). sensible. Piano and Apply to the Junior and Industrial Mandolin Lessons Orchestra Practice Young Women's Christian ^Association Clubs Prospect Avenue and East 18th Membership Parties St. gorgeous effects suitable for the stage or at best for older women. whose youth and its natural qualities need no artificial adornment.— Make has exactly according to Lesson 91. shown is one widely approved of and very popular for graduating. and if no lining X2— X6. made exactly on the same principle as a lady's dress. edge. — GIRLS SCHOOL shirt waist DRESS.

There is perhaps no department of WHOOPING COUGH DUNHAM'S SPECIFIC. more labor and is care and expense than usually figured on. all tucks in goods before cutting (Lesson Cut (Lesson Close 76). M'f 'rs. Page 84 . Cleveland. Make 54). novelty goods or any warm material must be worn. pared for Whooping Cough. flannel. but in the winter either underwear heavy enough to fully protect the child from the cold must be provided or woolen dresses of serge. and linens. 56). either 47).CHILDREN'S CLOTHES. O. Especially pre- sewing where an economical wife and mother can save to more advantage than in by doing the work herself the making of the children's clothes. Quickly cures Croup. repps. so we do not take up space in giving this instruction. ones daintily dressed and Lickes Drug Co. Colds. clean. 5 oz. or French seams (Lesson Make Make Make ruffles and attach (Lesson (Lesson 48). seams.00. poplins. Used in Cleveland Orphan Asylums 20 years.— CHILDREN'S DRESSES. Shortens and lightens the disease. Lesson 104. At Druggists.. collar 68). bot. $1. Hem Close (Lesson with dainty buttons and small button- holes (Lessons 29-30). Prevents bronchial diseases. Every mother desires to see her little this requires 12 oz. every instance possible should be of wash etc. In the latter instance the guimpe or sleeves it and yoke should always be of wash goods. 50 cts. percales. severe Coughs.. Physicians recommend it. piques. sleeves and put in (Lesson 69). The main goods such as point in planning children's garments in is to have them as plain and appropriate as possible. bot. ginghams. plain (Lesson 41). so that It is can be kept perfectly hardly economical to make boys clothing after they leave the "Buster Brown" period.

— CHILDREN'S WAISTS AND DRAWERS. is The cape joined at may be lined or unlined and the neck. S3). bottom of (Lesson Hem If . the of the collar.Lesson 105. drawers (Lesson 48). and sew on buttons (Lesson Fasten up back with washable buttons.— CHILD'S COAT. Sew line a bias band around waist 30). Put 64). A child's coat is made the after the same general instead principles as gown. Face waist armholes. except shoulders a of ruffles over the cape if desired may be made. band on drawers to (Lesson make buttonholes button on waist (Lesson 29). Cut out (Lesson Join 76). Lesson 106. is edging used overcast on neatly (Lesson 57). and make buttonholes or sew on loops of elastic cord. seam hidden by the facing 4483 Page 85 . French seams (Lesson neck. 47).

and if mother has the time to spare. Gather at knees. Make sleeves (Lesson 69). three pinning blankets. three dozen diapers. three sacks.BELLE VERNON MILK the Best Milk Lesson provide her 109. six bands. she usually prefers doing much of the work articles The Page 86 . infant's etc. CHAPTER VII. especially one expecting for the first time. tal- cum powder. so below we will give a list of absolutely nec- garments and articles together with an idea of about the number of each that the average expectant mother should have preessary Six dresses. little necessary to a child's wardrobe are very simple and easy to make. and a layout containing all necessary toilet articles. Put on collar (Lesson 68). for they are a comfortable. and how many of each article to make. three wrappers. pared: three (white). (Lesson 64). six night slips. INFANTS WARDROBE. one diaper cover. child and saves the mother much care and thought concerning his clothes. Make pocket (Lesson Make belt 73). To it ^3800 is the prospective mother. three petticoats petticoats (flannel). one kimona. — Every mother should with rompers. — ROMPERS. comb and safety pins. one veil. brush. one coat. one cap. Sew up straight seams (Lesson 41). six pair bootees. six bibs. six pair hose. usually a question as to just what they are to make. Cut (see Lesson 76). sensible garment for the little one to play in.

Sew on lace or fine embroidery edging (Lesson 57). the edges turned in and finished with an edging of lace or feather stitched. be more vitally important that the organs of maternity of the mother be in a perfect state of health and strength to undergo this trying ordeal? The expectant mother should begin to take ZOAas soon as pregnancy is known from time to time as needed according to directions. embroidered or neatly bound with pink or blue ribbon. of Birdseye linen or Canton flannel. the Mother's Health Should Be the First Consideration. Make and attach collar (Lesson 68).— MAKING THE INFANT'S OUTFIT. The little flannel jackets are made in one piece and the edges should be The night gown. both flannel and the dainty white ones are made under same instructions as Lesson 105. and a rapid recovery of natural health and strength afterward. Bibs should be of double thickness. or if lace or embroidery edging is not used you may feather stitch around the edge of the collar and down the front on either side of the buttonholes and many prefer to feather stitch the hem (see Lesson 18). quick and easy delivery at birth. cut square. A rubber diaper should be made for protection on occasions § when you are traveling or taking your child away from home.Lesson 110. This treatment is a positive aid in maintaining a good condition of health during confinement. but it should not be worn at all times as the ordinary waterproof diapers are not porous enough to let the air properly to the child's body. Make and put in sleeves (Lesson 69). Sew on buttons (Lesson 30). Diapers should be made of good cotton diaper cloth. CAN anything than PHORA Read the Special Offer as Given on Page 97 Ex pectant mothers can not afford to be without Woman's Friend Page 87 . Make buttonholes (Lesson 29). and made as daintily as possible. and should take regularly during the last month of confinement and for one or two months after birth. Sew up seams (Lessons 41 and 47). Kimona (see Lesson 86). Hem bottom of skirt (Lesson 48). follow instructions for making child's PRINCESS SLIP. Cut (Lesson 76). Hem back the fronts (Lesson 48). (see Lesson 106). The petticoat. gown (Lesson 104). The coat. and neatly hem by hand.— The dress is made the same as instructed (Lesson 104) child's dress except very much longer. While Preparing for the Coming of the Little One.

You can do considerable for careful consideration mShT- ^!S>wb CLOTHES kept beautifully clean and in "crisp CUMMER'S Perfect (JAflVAS freshness" by every J^RESSING dainty housewife WITH CUMMER'S ffltCUMMEflPHODUCTSCO CltVEtAIO. CUMMER'S SHOE DRESSINGS The Proper Dressing For EVERY Shoe Ask Your Shoeman Page 88 . M i(.CLEANING. for a process or chemical that removes the spot from one material will set the stain in or ruin another material.0»«> ENERGINE I 'SHOE OMOINATION DRESSING" GOOD AT ALL C STORES wuwmu moms cs i ei«n.«m. The cleaning of clothes and accessories of the dress is often a problem. must always be given to the nature of the spot and the material.

kid gloves. Cocoa Stains. Brass Stains. leathers. If on thin goods pour out a little alcohol in a bowl and rub out the stain. Fruit Stains: Follow directions as for removing coffee stains. and then rinse in ammonia water. soak the stain in salts of lemon. If the article is such that it can be boiled. If the spot is still moist cover with sugar. or if the ink — — — — Page 89 . which will clean woolen goods. feathers and almost anything cleanable. furs. rubbing until the stain disappears. Then follow directions as for removing blood stains. if the stain is on a washable article. and rinse thoroughly in clear tepid water.THE UNIVERSAL DRY CLEANSING // it isn't CO. Soak in cold water. there are many garments your articles in good fresh condition. or if on heavier goods. Rub pure lard on stain and leave for a few hours. then wash in sweet milk and rinse in clear tepid water. stain and not the rubbing. and it should always be kept on hand to keep However. in which has been added a mixture of equal parts of "Elwako". General Offices and Laboratories \2\$ tO 1230 East 71st St. Grass Stains: Must be removed with alcohol. Coffee Stains:— Do not soak or put into soap suds until boiling water has been poured through the cloth until the stain is removed. or if on white goods. Ink Spots: There are many ways of removing ink spots. it should then be put in very hot water. We give you in these pages the addresses of first class establishments. and care should be taken to select a reliable place. "Universal Dry Cleansing" It isn't the best. if the goods can be boiled. Nevertheless you will need a few suggestions for removing the spots and clothes and which you may desire to stains that are so apt to get on your try to remove yourself. so the main point is to alcohol that removes the have your cloth well saturated with the alcohol. salt or flour until you have absorbed all the ink possible. that must be otherwise your article may be returned to you ruined. dry cleaned. and good laundry soap. then wash in tepid soap suds and proceed as for blood stains. then rinse and wash carefully in tepid soap suds. Boil from 20 to 30 minutes. Blood Stains: Soak the stains in cold water over night. felts. where you can depend upon your work being properly done. woolen. silks. and Delivery Service. silk or cotton can most effectively be removed with Cummer's Energine full instructions for its use are found on the bottle. then pour boiling water through the of perfectly — — — spot until the stain has entirely disappeared. Auto Call Call Us Up —Phones. laces. Down Town Store 532 Euclid Avenue your own cleaning at home by using Cummer's Energine. Grease Spots on any fabric. then wash in tepid soap suds and proceed as lor removing blood stains. dip It is the a cotton cloth into the alcohol.

Or you may soak the stain in salts of lemon. or to a pint of water add one-fourth pound of sal soda. removed or the colors clear. Bell Phone 2192 / [J Cleaners for Particular People Edd y r ^*^/S-r T s**n f^k C-5 Cuy.Zoa-Phora Balm No Family Supply is Complete Without Known Ointment---within easy reach at this Well Diseases. Burns. then wash in gasoline or benzine. Machine will wash. Blisters. Chafes and Croup. and then rinse in clear cold water. Rust Stains may be removed by soaking chloric acid a diluted solution of hydro- and rinsing in clear cold water. and one ounce of chloride of lime. Piles. Rough Skin. Iodine Stains can best be removed with chloroform. or turpentine and ammonia. Insect Bites. Scorch Marks can be effectively removed only by sunshine. Boils. but as this is a very dangerous drug to work with it is usually better to send your garment to a cleaner. Spots: — Rub out in kerosene and wash in tepid soap suds and rinse in clear tepid water. Perspiration until the stain is — Stains: Sponge with a weak solution of hydrochloric acid. or oxalic acid until the ink has been removed. Eruptions. Phone Crest234 - W ump ^^ Z/^» ^§S3S3Rgg0r Page 90 Prompt Service We Call For and Deliver 13256 Euclid Avenue and 13430 Euclid Avenue . or rub out the spots in equal parts of turpentine and alcohol. soak the stain in this solution for half an hour. — Mildew: Soak in buttermilk spread on grass in sun. For Chapped or Cracked Hands. times Common Skin all i D rice Zjc rer oox Off D D • ALL FIRST CLASS DRUGGISTS will supply you has dried wash out the ink stains in the milk and rinse as above directed. rinse in clear tepid water. Catarrh and Colds in the Head. — and Paint Spots: Rub with vaseline until paint is softened. Tea Stains: Vaseline — Follow directions for removing coffee stains. Bruises. than to attempt to do the work yourself. if the material not rub wet borax over the spot and rinse in clear cold water. Oil: for 24 hours. all Children's Sore Throat. then wash gently in tepid soap in — suds and rinse in clear tepid water. if Wash with cold water and a pure white soap. Cold on the Lungs. then wash in benzine or gasoline. Scalds.

fabric. and see the result. Many old or shabby garments can be dyed and renovated and made over and months of service gotten from them. They are easy and simple to use. 90th Street Cleveland. Dyeing Fine Lingerie and Lace Curtains Specialties and Feather Work 2420 Cedar Ave. if cotton or silk. When dying. In taking goods from the dye bath. If. The best plan is to try a small piece of goods fabric first.North 776 Cent. piece of material in with the larger pieces. and dyed a deeper shade. same shade. two or three 91 . Princt 2906-L . the probable result. the goods may be put back in the same dye bath. and do not stain the hands. it becomes discolored. so that in case the desired shade is not obtained. Unlike the old-time easier to handle than the old-fashioned dry powder whether it be of animal or dyes. for instance. table covers and various other articles may be dyed and brightened up. changing the water when times. where without dyeing they would be useless. so that it may be taken out from time to time. appear as good as new and that at but a few cents of expense. and are much cleaner and dyes. before putting in the article to be dyed. you can use the same dye for any vegetable nature. it is always best to discharge or remove as much of the old color as possible. but keep them moving by stirring occasionally with a wooden stick. they should all be otherwise a variety of shades would be the In discharging or removing old colors from material that has been previously dyed. to put a small time and additional expense. thus saving It is advisable. do not crowd the goods. This can be accomplished by boiling the goods. Page if necessary. Peacock Dyes are put up in collapsible tubes. Ohio DYEING. as it is The color of the impossible to dye a dark colored fabric a lighter color. like many other dyes. rugs. ALL WORK GUARANTEED Fannie Hamlet. you have a yellow dress and use a blue dye. Do not expect to dye a dark piece of goods a light shade. when dyeing. so that it takes day to wear off. 7420-R Doan 337-L Res. Boil from one-half to three-quarters of an hour in a bath containing soap. without removing the article itself. instances a few precautions in dyeing you must always follow. in fact making them in many cases. Snow Flake Hand Laundry The Cedar Cleaning Works Cleaning. the result will be a green. Prop. 2336 E. Old and worn curtains. to see if the desired shade is obtained. There are in all which you are about to dye has nearly as much effect on the result as the dye you use. do not throw away the solution until goods are dry. Phone. When several pieces are to be dyed put in the dye bath at the same time.

Mixed Goods. Wools. color from wool. as of old color is it tends to The removal very important in dyeing articles out the that have been previously dyed. Feathers. may be dyed. making them appear as good as new.When removing soften the wool. Apple Green . Tablecovers. FULL DIRECTIONS ON EACH TUBE. Rugs. Curtains. no soap should be used. Linens. making them much easier and cleaner to handle than the old fashioned powder dyes. etc. Peacock Dyes are put up in collapsible tubes. Silks. Raffia.. as the newly dyed material the bright and uniform. worn and shabby Clothes. old color come discharging when will not PEACOCK DYES For Home Dyeing THE ONE DYE FOR ALL FABRICS For dyeing Cotton. By the use of Peacock Dyes in the household a great many old. Basketry. owing to article is put into the bath of some of new color. Chipped Straw. etc.

Cleveland. Cents in stamps and we will mail you. and that it makes white clothes WHITE. 1120 Prospect Ave. or those ot a dainty. 0. It is invaluable ELWAKO ELWAKO IN It is YOUR LAUNDRY WORK sold by most Grocers. with full directions for using. One 25 cent can will clean any common sized rug or carpet without rinsing or removing from the floor. is not a Soap nor a Soap Powder. It is a scientific Washing Compound to be used in connection with any good Laundry Soap in accordance with directions printed on each package. which does wonderful work.. Bedding. yet there are always numberless small things. send us Ten package from your Grocer. and restores all the original brilliancy of color without injury. Page 93 . not gray or yellow. We also manufacture CARPET CLEANER. ELWAKO Elwako Manufacturing Co.. get a If he does not keep it. that articles washed with last twice as long as when rubbed. Ask your grocer for it also. sufficient for four family washings. or perhaps some pieces which one prizes very highly and one desires to have done at home. S. It contains no Lye or Acid. and will not injure any fabric. E.LAUNDERING. learned by practical experience that it saves the hard labor of rubbing and dispenses with the washboard. postpaid. Curtains or personal apparel. You must be most careful in this SETTLES THE WASH-DAY QUESTION NO LYE NO ACID WILL MAKE YOUR CLOTHES CLEAN*WHITE WITHOUT RUBBING SOLD BY GROCERS YOU SHOULD USE ELWAKO Because thousands of other women have in your weekly washing. whether they be Table Linen. If you are not now using it. delicate texture or color. a package of regular size. In this present day of good laundries the hardest and most laborious part of the work can be sent away.

least being sure that the corners are well fastened. You should first see that remove the dirt and stains and germs without the unnecessary labor of rubbing. blended. Fifth.— -Starch and hang on so the articles will not Sixth. as they will turn your clothes yellow and fade and cause the colors to run. in perfect with great care. being sure that nothing with if a color in it is put with the all-white clothes. time and wear on your clothing. blow about and tear or become stretched out of shape. — Shave in soap together one small cake of Elwako and one bar of any good laundry three pints of water and boil and stir until they are thoroughly Third. but over night better. and it will make your clothes clean and whte with a Further. one which will First. North 975 Central 3280-W Prospect Avenue and East 14th Street A Particular Laundry for Particular People Cleveland Ohio Page 94 . Seventh. . We suggest the use of "Elwako. that you get on bargain counters. and soak white pieces in cold water over night. for a badly laundered article is worthless to a particular or refined woman. sort the and wash the finer first. the boiler with the clothes. water and roll —When —Iron dry. be careful to get good saving of labor. — Sort over your clothes. are worse than worthless. sprinkle with tepid is tightly and leave for at one hour. for you can wear your articles out more by rubbing them over a rough washboard than you would wear them out in a week of almost constant service. line. taking precautions to always keep the garment it form or you may render unsightly by ironing out of shape. you have a good laundry soap many of the cheaper soaps. and coarser from the finer you have a large number of pieces.work. Then always use a good laundry aid. acid or substance of any' kind which will injure the most delicate fabric. Second. where they can get the full benefit of the air and sun. — Put fill one-half of this mixture into a washboiler containing very hot water and Fourth. wrung out of the cold water.'' as it positively contains no lye. —Boil two tubs of tepid from 20 to 30 minutes and wrinse thoroughly through one or water and then through bluing water. bluing and good starch and if possible have your clothes hanged out of doors.

and Grandmother find it the best woman's especially the sexual organism. — on the market. inferior preparations Zoa-Phora is not an ordinary ignorant layman. Maiden. No opiates or narcotics to suddenly deaden your pain and in time ruin your nervous system. Present this coupon to your nearest druggist. that you have found a treatment perfected to the limit of modern medical discovery. It is indeed (Woman's Friend). 1. narcotics. and you will then know to your own satisfaction and benefit just what Zoa-Phora really is. or any dangerous or 5. Page 95 . Zoa-Phora begins at the seat of your trouble and builds up every part of your body. Zoa-Phora 3. Zoa-Phora contains no alcohol positively not one drop is used. Zoa-Phora is one of the oldest reliable preparations on It has. If you want to be cured. one of the greatest Specialists of his age in the treatment of the diseases of women. — of diseases of the market for the treatment 50 years. for nearly women. It does not make "drug fiends. Zoa-Phora is a vegetable compound. No alcohol in it to Zoa-Phora is excite the nervous system and make you feel fine for a few hours and then leave you weak and exhausted. When you know what Zoa-Phora really is you will be convinced if you are suffering with any form of disease peculiar to women. rational. asked hundreds of times daily honest Before using a treatment a sensible woman wants to know what she is using she is perfectly justified in demanding an honest and straightforward answer. Zoa-Phora contains only the best and purest Positively the best ingredients preparation. 8. patent medicine— not some dope handed down by an the prescription of Dr. Mother. tonic to carry them safely through the various changes of womanhood. Does not this prove that Zoa-Phora is beyond question all that it is claimed to be? Write today and we will send you a copy of its formula." as do some of the cheap. relieved and cured the very worst forms of Female Trouble and ailments peculiar to women. 6. therefore. a satisfactory. harmful drugs. The following indisputable evidence will convince the most skeptical of the merits and value of Zoa-Phora. known to of drugs. write us.— WHAT Is IS ZOA-PHORA? is Zoa-Phora" THIS question "What women seeking asked by intelligent reply. Pengelly. plain. just what Zoa-Phora is compounded of. Our remedies are used by the thinking class of women throughout the United States and we are giving you a few reasons why you are safe in choosing Zoa-Phora in preference to all other remedies and why you are guaranteed satisfaction. composition. but Zoa-Phora is 2. and given entire satisfaction. It is manufactured only of the best and most valuable roots and herbs known to science. If compounded your druggist has no free box for you have him With the purchase of one Dollar-size bottle of Zoa-Phora the bearer is entitled to a full ten days' special treatment of the Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Cones which the Zoa-Phora Company are supplying the drug trade free of charge for this purpose. No expense is spared in modern medical science are used in its its Zoa-Phora is not a secret formula. give Zoa-Phora a chance to do its good work. We to cure. opiates. are not afraid to publish to every woman and to every physician and to the whole world. 7. does not make drunkards or a craving for stimulants. Zoa-Phora is Nature's own restorative and cure. Wife. In addition to the splendid tonic effects of Zoa-Phora many women need a good local treatment and in order to encourage the use of our Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones in all cases when needed we are making the following offer of a full Ten Days' Treatment of our Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones (further information on page 79 of this book). 4. Zoa-Phora does not contain minerals.

15621 Detroit Avenue Ludwig Pharmacy. FULLY WARwill be sent you by return mail. The Zoa-Phora Remedies 1803 Co. 16924 Detroit Avenue Dole. and will wear a life time.00 Cold Remedy La Grippe Remedy .DEC 19 1912 One Set of Silver Teaspoons Free To Users of Zoa-Phora Send us the front of the carton or box from any one of the packages in each of three divisions below arranged and the full set of RANTED TEASPOONS \L SIX TRIPLE PLATED. which means one Zoa-Phora (Woman's Friend) wrapper and your choice of any one of the remedies in Number Two and one from Number Three..50 . Standard Drug Stores Purity Drug Co.. full line And in Lakewood and Detroit Avenue the of Zoa-Phora supplies can be procured from Lindsley Drug Co. 11600 Detroit Avenue Alford Crocker.25 Digestive Tablets Stomach and Liver Pills Anti-Constipation Pills - . OHIO ..50 Remedy - Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones Number Balm ----3 - .50 - - . 18503 Detroit Avenue Go today to your nearest druggist and procure the remedies you need and send the faces from the packages direct to These beautiful teaspoons axe of the favorite Narcissus pattern.25 . Adams Street Page 96 TOLEDO. best triple plated. fully warranted. 1 - Number Number Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Zoa-Phora Pile Zoa-Phora (Woman's Friend) 2 - $1.50 . Marshall Drug Stores The May Co. You can procure Zoa-Phora from every including the first class druggist in Cleveland.25 . 4706 Detroit Avenue Wilson Drug Co. etc.25 - Not One Cent to Pay for the Teaspoons Now or Later Send us the three wrappers or cartons as indicated above.

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