Fascinating Culture, Food, Nightlife and Urban Adventure in Mexico’s Maximum City

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THE MEXICO CITY MINISTRY OF TOURISM (SecturDF) considers it a privilege to offer this special welcome to its lesbian, gay, bisexual, transsexual, transgender and intersexual visitors. We think “the DF” is soon to be one of your favorite places in the world. Its cultural, social, gastronomic and nightlife options are as diverse as you, ranging from grand historical spaces to fun bohemian watering holes; edgy galleries and endless museums; hotels for every budget, all manner of great restaurants, and incredible street life that fires the imagination. Put together it adds up to tremendous fun and sophisticated urban adventure. Mexico City and SecturDF’s commitment to the LGBTTI community—for citizens and visitors alike—goes beyond flying a rainbow flag in this or that place and advocating for tolerance. Instead, it is reflected in progressive actions designed to enhance equality for all members of sexually diverse communities, most notably exemplified by Mexico City’s landmark 2010 legalization of same-sex marriage, a first for any Latin American jurisdiction. Legal adoption by same-sex couples was enacted the same year. It is also reflected in this official guide to LGBT Mexico City. The first ever of its kind, it focuses especially on the neighborhoods and attractions that LGBT visitors most enjoy, and leads to art, architecture and history amid seven centuries of urban culture in the Centro Histórico; to the alternative charms of artsy enclaves like Condesa and Roma; to the high-end good life and sophisticated style that is Polanco; and not least of all, to the Zona Rosa, the cradle of Mexico’s LGBT rights movement, and of course, home to some of the best gay nightlife in the world. Along the way you’ll read about the city’s hidden gems and less well-known neighborhoods, too. Best of all, it is the people of Mexico City—smart, fun, friendly and hospitable—who complete the mosaic of city life and support its free, open spirit. Look for great insider tips in every section from some of the city’s most fascinating young personalities. They—alongside nearly ten million DF residents—join SecturDF in welcoming you to our spectacular urban celebration.
Mexico City Ministry of Tourism

MEXICO CITY GAY PRIDE PARADE

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the characters and the random encounters. The great conversations. the questions that only come up when this many souls get together in one place. smart cocktail lounges and cutting-edge restaurants. making friends and maybe even some flirt while you’re at it. the high and the low. Start with the history. and Mexico’s center of intellectual. Then add style. The capital of the Aztec Empire from 1325. campy contrasts. established and emerging. A highly subjective invitation to take your place in the DF’s dazzling urban pageant. color and street life. And best of all. artistic and cultural life in every period before and after independence. It’s also about the LGBT community’s open existence and contributions. and hundreds of creators. With all that in mind. Then there are the pleasures. the people-watching. Get ready for amazing architecture and a wild combination of the old and the new. whose genius takes perennial inspiration from the city’s dynamism. Michael Parker-Stainback AUTHOR AND EDITOR LGBT GUIDE TO MEXICO CITY 4 .MEXICO CITY: MAXIMUM CITY Where to begin when describing how much Mexico City appeals to LGBT travelers? It helps that we love urban life. museums that challenge the boundaries. nostalgia. Elegance and sophistication in hotels. we present the LGBT Guide to Mexico City. there’s the joy of city life. and fun. Because Mexico City is Maximum City—and even more incredible when experienced through the lens of queer creativity. We hope it whets the appetite for more exploration and adventure on this trip and on journeys yet to come. Mexico City has always thought big. Food in infinite varieties. Nightlife that only ends when you call it quits. with dozens of edgy galleries. impossibly delicious. grand and palatial. wit and style. that makes for pageantry. followed by three centuries as a viceregal Spanish city. Mexico City is at a high point when it comes to design and the arts.

P. Condesa. de C.. 4 — CONDESA/ROMA — P. © Travesías Editores. Queda prohibida la reproducción parcial o total de esta obra por cualquier medio —incluidos los electrónicos— sin permiso escrito por parte del titular de los derechos.V. Amatlán 33. S. Primera edición: 2012. col. México D. SPORTS & ADVENTURES — P. 06140.A.. 30 — OTHER NEIGHBORHOODS COYOACÁN SAN RAFAEL/SANTA MARÍA LA RIBERA IN THE FIELD: EXCURSIONS. 5 . C.CONTENTS CENTRO HISTÓRICO — P.F. 40 — LGBT GUIDE MEXICO CITY. 24 — ZONA ROSA — P. 14 — POLANCO — P.

Not least of all. is something that LGBT people truly appreciate: the city as a place of surprises and freedom. great new hotels and restaurants join old-schoolers that have been there forever. and the museum-going is tremendous. religious and cultural institutions. After some recent tough times. LGBT nightlife is booming downtown. the Centro Histórico. Its narrow streets are jammed with incredible architecture. it was home to all of Mexico’s most important government. the temple of high culture. the Centro is reasserting its central place in the urban fabric—and is an essential stop for every LGBT visitor. culture and just plain life—high.CENTRO HISTÓRICO THE TIME MACHINE FEW NEIGHBORHOODS ON EARTH CONTAIN AS MUCH HISTORY. The neighborhood’s intangible urbanity. From its legendary beginnings in the fourteenth century. next door to the dive-y corner bar. seemingly lost in time. a pageant of the grand and the humble. low and otherwise—as does Mexico City’s ancient downtown. 6 . architecture. until the last years of the nineteenth.

DE PERÚ PENSAD OR MEX ICANO 5 9 STA. DE GU 8 ATEMALA BALDERAS 6 4 1 AYUNTAM IENTO REP. VE RACRU Z 3 DONCELES JUSTO SIERRA 7 2 REP.REPÚBLICA DE PARAGU PEDRO MOREN O NICARAGUA REP. DE EL SALVADOR 10 IZAZAGA 1 Zócalo 2 Palacio de Bellas Artes 3 Plaza Tolsá 4 Hotel Downtown México 5 Salón Marrakech 6 Cantina Tío Pepe 7 Cantina La Ópera 8 San Ildefonso 9 Museo Franz Mayer 10 Museo de la Ciudad de México 7 CENTRO AY . DE UR UGUAY REP.

the seat of the Federal Government. the main Aztec temple. Plaza highlights include the Palacio de Minería (the classical pile right next door). worth a look-see for its architecture alone.e. . BUSTLING STREETS FOR DAYS AND RARELY SEE THE SAME THING TWICE. stroll down Madero Street—the people-watching is great as you pass several magnificent buildings and churches. Madero ends in front of a white-wedding cake of an auditorium: the Palacio de Bellas Artes. Between these two structures—like a ghost between church and state—lies the Templo Mayor. THAT SAID. just across the street from the post office. the city’s main post office.SIGHTS & STROLLS S S 1 2 FROM THE ZÓCALO AND THE PALACIO NACIONAL TO BELLAS ARTES AND PLAZA TOLSÁ YOU COULD EXPLORE THE CENTRO’S NARROW. the Zócalo. This was where the Aztecs founded the city when. (Sound familiar? Check out the Mexican flag). including amazing grillwork and a grand staircase that’s grand enough for even you. Today you explore its ruins and extensive museum. if possible. walk toward the rear of Bellas Artes and cross over to the Palacio Postal (at Tacuba Street). Start in Mexico City’s main square. And just look what happened. where yes. it is said.. Zócalo highlights include the Cathedral (don’t miss the immense baroque pipe organ and the splendid altarpiece) and to the right is the Palacio Nacional. they spotted an eagle alighting on a cactus. Its creamy art nouveau exterior contrasts with a fabulous dark-hued art deco interior. the Palacio Nacional now houses Diego Rivera murals and other artifacts from Mexican history. devouring a snake. the human sacrifices happened. An augur foretold a great city would rise where the eagle landed. i. and Mexico’s National Art Museum. 3 4 5 From the Zócalo. THE FOLLOWING ROUTE LETS YOU DO THE MUST-SEES IN A FEW HOURS. Check out what state-of-the-art communications looked like in 1903. they’ll lower its incredible Tiffany-glass fire curtain. 8 Outside. Begun by Cortés where Moctezuma’s imperial residence once stood. whose centerpiece is an equestrian statue of a tubby and none-too-bright looking King Charles IV of Spain. End your tour in Plaza Tolsá. see an event at the Palacio and with luck.

Impossibly palatial. Tacuba 28. Roldán 37.com. azulhistorico.mx.mx. 5521 8894. CASINO ESPAÑOL. a routinely packed must-see. Refined. República de Argentina 17 (on the roof of the Librería Porrúa bookstore). 5542 1951. Mon-Thurs 10 am-7 pm. Mon-Sat 9 am-11 pm. featuring traditional Mexican. Mon-Sun 8 am-6 pm.mx. Open daily 7 am-11 pm. cafedetacuba. Mexican classics and steaks with a hint of French bistro. Mon-Sun 10 am-8 pm. 5510 2394. Isabel la Católica 29. An essential experience. SANBORNS (CASA DE LOS AZULEJOS) Francisco I.com. CASA DE LAS SIRENAS. Sundays can include a habit-clad “nun” who hands out breakfast pastries. República de Guatemala 32. dig the waitress uniforms).com. 5704 7580. 5704 3345. 5518 4950. Isabel la Católica 30 (on the ground level of the Hotel Downtown México). Mon-Fri 8 am11 pm. The views—from the Cathedral to grand colonial palaces and the namesake Aztec temple—are ghostly. bajodelatintorera. the soaring lobby and the 1000-lb chandeliers. Open daily 8 am-11:30 pm. poetic and inspiring. The Azulejos location’s dining room occupies a fantastic colonial courtyard. Ideal for breakfast. lacasadelassirenas. the terrace offers marvelous views of the Cathedral. Excellent tortillas prepared by old gals that know what they’re doing. Roldán occupies a restored CAFÉ DE TACUBA townhouse on a street few visitors reach.com/ elmayor. 5512 7882. Sun 11 am-7 pm. bustling scene. A chic lunch spot with updated traditionals. A classic. Madero 4. Sat 9-12 am. Make the pilgrimage for refined Mexican iterations. Sun 9 am-6 pm. CAFÉ DE TACUBA. if only for the waitress uniforms. ROLDÁN 37. Sun 10 am-6 pm. PADRINOS. “THE CHIC/BARRIO COMBO IS PURE ROLDÁN 37 MEXICO CITY. “modern” Mexican fare served in a leafy colonial courtyard amid a chic.” 9 CENTRO . Once you’ve recovered from the grand staircase. immaculate and kitschy (like at Sanborns. the Xala outpost occupies a gorgeously restored eighteenth-century palace. sanborns.com.com. Sun 9 am-6 pm. slip upstairs for Spanish lunch with hard-coiffed señoras and downtown fat-cats whose dining companions look a little too young to be their wives. porrua. Fri-Sat 10 am-11 pm. A hidden gem. 5518 1463. mx. Isabel la Católica 30 (on the ground level of the Hotel Downtown México). EL MAYOR. like enchiladas and tamales. 5521 3295.com. the chic/barrio combo is pure Mexico City.FABULOUS CENTRO RESTAURANTS AZUL HISTÓRICO. sanborns. in the patio of an eighteenth-century palace. MonSat 11 am-11 pm. Open daily 7 am-1 am and SANBORNS (PALACIO CONDES DE XALA) Venustiano Carranza 73. Flavorful Mexican food in a lopsided old townhouse.

Belisario Domínguez 72. Open daily 9 am-6 pm. Churros El Moro. Thurs-Sun 1 pm-10 pm. MonWed 1 pm-9 pm. Isabel la Católica 83. Bar Quiroga (Belisario Domínguez 13). vintage-1947 “dirty” jokes… Danubio. is the authentically tourist-tacky heart of mariachi music. mutemgaribaldi. Mon 12 pm-6 pm.com.mx.. underground pleasures are also great fun. Wed 11 am-7 pm. T equila. 5512 2593. downtown along Avenida Lázaro Cárdenas. Thurs-Sat 11 am-8 pm.e. THEY JUST DON’T GET STICKY ABOUT IT. Smart lunches and cocktails amid the Palacio de Bellas Artes’s art deco splendors. danubio. Fri-Sat 1 pm-3 am). Old—and we mean old—school seafood. Delicious Yucatán food in a down-home atmosphere. Traditional. carnitas. Mesones 171. they just don’t get sticky about it. restaurants and museums are all part of Mexico City. There’s also a brand-new Museo del Tequila y el Mezcal (Plaza Garibaldi [no number] 5529 1238. Hanging out in the plaza is fun (look for “cocktail bars” perched on rolling 10 carts). featuring classics like enchiladas. and carne asada—plus offkey live entertainment. Lázaro Cárdenas 42.com.” CHURROS EL MORO OTHER NOTEWORTHY CENTRO RESTAURANTS (IN BRIEF) Al-Andalus. República de Uruguay 3.“THE CRUSTY WAITRESSES LOVE YOU. Coox Hanal. 5512 0912. don’t get fall-down drunk or try to score something you know isn’t good for you. Finally.mx. 5709 3613. EZ listening organ. Mon-Sat 9 am-10:30 pm.com.mx).com. but its sub-rosa. Authentic Middle-Eastern fare served in an old townhouse. Open daily 24 hrs. The crusty waitresses love you. 5512 0896. Open daily 10:30 am-6:30 pm. between the Centro and Garibaldi. dangerous elixirs. Rub elbows with artsy types who’d better start suffering if they’re going to finish that symphony. Plaza Garibaldi. or go “classy” at Salón El Tenampa (Plaza Garibaldi 12. Sun-Mon.mx. Sun-Thurs 1 pm-2 am. Hostería de Santo Domingo. elmoro. a social center for the city’s Lebanese immigrants. but take reasonable precautions. 5526 6176. Sun 9-8 pm. that celebrates the delicious. .com. and Go (Colón 30 at the corner of Reforma) are popular at this writing. Churro “doughnuts” and the hot chocolate is to die for. . 5522 2528. Tues-Sun 11 am-6 pm. Café del Palacio. Have fun. i. Avenida Juárez 1 (in the lobby of the Palacio de Bellas Artes). Sundays feature mind-blowing entertainment: aging pop divas. 5526 5276. Trumpets and T ears FABULOUS DIVES IN AND AROUND PLAZA GARIBALDI Dazzling hotels. hosteriadesantodomingo. yet nostalgic fun. an oldschool joint with strolling mariachis. Said to be the city’s oldest restaurant. salontenampa. there are a series of gay places that ride the line between hip and abject: El 69 (Lázaro Cárdenas 15A).

In the middlebrow range. there is almost always an adaptation of the latest (or not so latest) Broadway musical hit. with a breathtaking—if not overwhelming—range of options..mx/cartelera. CENTRO 11 . only to become ensnared in prostitution. to folk music. María Candelaria (1944) stars Dolores del Río as a (fair-skinned?) indigenous flower vendor in the floating gardens of Xochimilco. crowd pleasing. After her father’s lurid suicide. She can’t seem to get a break (the piglet!) until a foreign artist makes her his model. gob. Yet Paco (Rodolfo Acosta). danzón or salsa. keeps coming around to abuse. intrigue and nightclub superstardom. live music choices are nearly infinite.mx or the Mexico City Tourism Ministry’s mexicocity. she sets out to avenge all who have wronged her. Visit timeoutmexico. Elena (the fierce Ninón Sevilla) decamps for the big city. Finally. mx has information on blockbuster shows plus the current theatrical offering. pop concerts and the world-famous Ballet Folklórico. On the high end there is what happens at the Palacio de Bellas Artes and other official venues: ballet and orchestra. Aventurera (1950). gob. “event calendar”) sections on websites like Bellas Artes’s bellasartes. Gorgeous photography by Mexican cinematographer Gabriel Figueroa.listal. Salón México (1949). opera and modern dance. punk and metal. Empowered.com/viewimage/182346h LA FARÁNDULA: THEATRE AND THE PERFORMING ARTS Mexico City is a mecca for the arts. ranging from old-style bolero torch songs. often on the cheap. which doesn’t require perfect Spanish—if any—to enjoy. Mercedes (Marga López) works as a “taxi dancer” in a tawdry dancehall. steal and generally screw things up. campy Mexico City-set pictures to get you started. the colorful. To send her sister to an exclusive boarding school. including cabaret. Will Mercedes sacrifice all to hide the truth from her sister? www. and even curious holdouts like rockabilly. and film studios such as Estudios Churubusco made Mexico City the cinema capital of the Spanish-speaking world. hot but bad news. and quite impressive traditional dance show.P A POSTER FROM MARÍA CANDELARIA (1944) Churubusco Camp Three Must-See Classics from the Golden Age of Mexican Cinema From the post-WW II period until the mid-1960s. We recommend three essential. yet association with the bohemian set leads to repercussions. The website carteleradeteatro. Check out the “cartelera” (i.mx for the latest listings and recommendations. Mexican movies enjoyed a golden age.e.

style queens love the art-nouveau and flocked velvet wallpaper. Mon-Thurs 12 pm10 pm.” LA PURÍSIMA 12 . 5521 9740. 5521 9136. BARS & CLUBS EL OASIS. Sat 12 pm-9:30 pm. sassy grrls thrill to a bullet hole that Pancho Villa left behind (ask a waiter to point it out). República de Cuba 2-E. everyone’s here for fervent jukebox dancing and major eye contact. when its rooftop bar fills with sexy. fun and flirt—amid madhouse.com. with a stiff shot of belle-époque (that’s taken “FRENETIC DANCING. Fri-Sat 5 pm-5 am. LA PERLA. OTHER CENTRO NIGHTLIFE OF INTEREST Bar La Ópera. A bohemian hideaway that kicked off the Cuba Street boom. Fri 12 pm-11 pm. Cantina Tío Pepe. The working man’s La Ópera (see above). drag shows and heartfelt karaoke.com. Arrive early (the place is tiny) or wait to get in. 5521 8375. then add edgy furnishings. cabaret-laperla. especially weekend nights. this kicky hotel is now a hotspot. Thurs-Sat 6 pm-3 am. 5704 1995. Independencia 26. Drag performers range from pop-divas and traditional señoritas to fierce 200-pounders and refugees from German expressionism.B N BUENAS NOCHES: FABULOUS HOTELS Hotel de Cortés. barlaopera. Big-sister to Marrakech. now everyone comes. bohemian crew for frenetic dancing. Thurs-Sat 2 pm-2:30 am. and there’s tequila and margaritas for all. but once Thursday hits. boutiquehotel decortes. MARRAKECH SALÓN. República de Cuba 2-G. Sun 1-6 pm. More a gilded-age saloon than mere cantina. República de Cuba 18. The upstairs lounge is good for a boozy tête-à-tête. FUN AND FLIRT— AMID MADHOUSE. well-scrubbed youths of all persuasions. 5518 2181. plus plenty of girls. CENTRO LGBT CANTINAS. Camp décor and a friendly vibe add to the charm. CATHOLIC-KITSCH APPOINTMENTS. Catholic-kitsch appointments. Mostly men. Sun-Thurs 4 pm-3 am. Rooms boast great colonial architecture. Cinco de Mayo 10. present for dancing. LA PURÍSIMA. República de Cuba 44.com Occupying a recently “boutiqued” eighteenth century monastery. Sun-Wed 2 pm-1:30 am. 5512 0929. Weeknights are tranquilo. 1997 7695. FriSat 8 pm-3 am. including clear glass look-atme showers that reward you for all that time in the gym. Centro Histórico Avenida Hidalgo 85 (just north of the Alameda Central). Thurs-Sat 7 pm-2 am. República de Cuba 21. More for fun than hook-ups. The grandmama cantina of the burgeoning Cuba Street scene. La Purísima gathers a cute. Said to have opened in 1946 (last remodel 1963?). The crowd spans from papa bears to twinks. typically packed with artsy young men (and women) who are easy on the eyes. Mon-Sat 1 pm-12 am. gogo boys. but you never know… EL VIENA. Everyone is family here.

for every body type. Cuauhtémoc at Colima. yet suitable for all audiences (especially when the crowd gets to singing its offkey torch songs). 5912 8010. Sundays 10 pm at Papi Fun Bar. A quiet. Tues-Wed 1:30-11 pm. Trapped in time—including the regulars—it ain’t swank or chic. who also works as a fashion producer. lounge-y and relaxed. The Hermanas Vampiro Show. 5518 1710. El Patio 77. downtownmexico. sdemis. among other programs. Colonia Doctores Flea Market. Colonia Roma. Polanco. Orizaba 101 L-F. but you cannot argue with the views. never the same twice. Colonia Doctores. SunMon 1:30-9 pm. 5511 8599. Amberes 18. Colonia San Rafael. 13 CENTRO . 5130 6830. highly-tanned crush hits later on. The Centro’s chicest new address. the vibe is great at cocktail hour.com. Sangre de Mi Sangre. Zona Rosa. EL OASIS Memo Martínez is a reporter and on-air personality. The smart person’s couture. Broadcast Journalist Carla Fernández. Fri-Sat 12 pm-3 am. Madero 1 (the 41st floor of the Torre Latinoamericana).a few hard knocks). in style so extraordinary it’s timeless. T TOP 5 5 Mexico City’s Coolest Reveal Their Favorite DF Pleasures MEMO MARTÍNEZ. The lounge atop the city’s most beloved skyscraper is more impressive than strictly fabulous. Saturdays. Isabel la Católica 30. carlafernandez. Moliere 58. lovely spot for a “dirty weekend” with your Prince Charming—or Marquis de Sade.com. Av. host of Glam Show (Channel 52) and Televisa’s Fashionet specials. 5592 8452. a highly-heeled. Icazbalceta 77. Legendary Mexican susperstars. a celebration of Mexican textiles unlike anyplace else. miralto.mx. Always fierce. elpatio77.com. All the greatest old junk you never knew you needed. hilarious and fun. Mon-Thurs 12 pm-12 am. Thurs-Sat 1:30 pm-2 am. Miralto. com. the urge to acquire seizes you like a fever.com. Hotel Downtown México Rooftop. Fantastic silver jewelry for women and men who can pull off a real statement.

Sat-Sun 10 am-7 pm. map. And don’t miss “El Generalito. this art museum is home to dazzling temporary exhibitions that skew to contemporary work from Mexico and around the world. silver. Avenida Juárez (in front of the Benito Juárez monument). sculpture. Tues-Sun 10 am-6 pm.THE CENTRO’S BEST MUSEUMS ANTIGUO COLEGIO DE SAN ILDEFONSO. 5702 2991. from colonial times to the early twentieth century. WedMon 10 am-6 pm. tapestries. pulpits. 5518 2266. neo-baroque. etc. Wed-Sun 10 am-5:30 pm. MUSEO DEL PALACIO DE BELLAS ARTES. 5130 3400. Isabel la Católica 26.org.gob. museodelestanquillo. MUSEO NACIONAL DE ARTE.org. 5282 1964.mx. alongside increasingly notable temporary exhibitions. Tues-Sun 10 am-5 pm. history and design to Mexican popular culture. memoriaytolerancia. Siqueiros and Diego Rivera (among others). munal. Late Mexican writer Carlos Monsiváis’s brilliant queer eye is the basis for a rotating schedule of exhibits on everything from cinema. etc. 5542 0671. franzmayer. it contrasts permanent exhibitions with edgier temporary art and photography shows. Arrayed around a series of tranquil cloisters.mx. etc. Don’t miss the building’s cornerstone: an Aztec deity “recycled” as a brick for a conquistador’s mansion.com. neo-wedon’t-know-what-else pile—must be 14 ANTIGUO COLEGIO DE SAN ILDEFONSO . ceramics. Tues-Fri 9 am-6 pm. Avenida Hidalgo 45. mounted from “treasures” Monsiváis culled on trips to the city’s flea markets. Focused on urban history and culture. Tues-Sun 10 am-5:30 pm. Pino Suárez 30. MUSEO DE LA CIUDAD DE MÉXICO. Tues-Sun 10 am-6 pm.” a seventeenth-century chapel featuring incredible hand-carved mahogany choir stalls. MUSEO MEMORIA Y TOLERANCIA. the Palacio de Bellas Artes includes a museum that often hosts international blockbuster shows alongside “brand name” murals by Orozco. Dazzling folk art housed in a great art deco building. Avenida Juárez (no number. sanildefonso. gob.. “harmless” bigotry. Revillagigedo 11. A gracious colonial-era hospital now houses a decorative arts collection bursting with fab 16th to 19thcentury furniture. Mexico’s national art museum features an almost exhausting collection of painting. Tues-Sun 10 am-5:30 pm. MUSEO DE ARTE POPULAR. Justo Sierra 16. MUSEO DEL ESTANQUILLO. MUSEO FRANZ MAYER. df. Wed 10 am-9 pm. Even the butchest will catalogue decorating ideas.com. This museum of memory and tolerance bears witness to the twentieth century’s most violent genocides and builds awareness of everyday. 5510 2201. In addition to its breathtaking concert MUSEO NACIONAL DE ARTE hall (see the stroll at the beginning of this chapter). Tues 10 am-8pm. org.mx. at the corner of Avenida Lázaro Cárdenas). 5130 5555. bellasartes. And the museum itself—a mind-blowing neorenaissance. Tacuba 8. 5521 3052. housewares.mx.mx.

which may be the biggest hotel rooms we’ve ever seen. Museo del Juguete Antiguo México. bellasartes. Worth working around the odd hours: colonial-era religious art that really goes for baroque. Museo Mural Diego Rivera. IS THAT MUSEO MEMORIA Y TOLERANCIA ‘OLD MONEY’ ENOUGH?” 15 CENTRO . An immense photo archive in a magnificent colonial townhouse. Olvera 15. Colonia Doctores. Sat-Sun 10 am-16 pm. Museo Nacional de la Estampa. Its mural centerpiece is a Diego Rivera masterwork that’s a who’s-who of Mexican history and society. museocalzado. museonacionaldelaestampa. Mon-Fri 9 am-6 pm. Tues-Sun 10 am-6 pm. com. Located south of the Centro. Tues-Sun 10 am-6 pm. downtownmexico. “. 5512 7862. for the diva in us all.com The brand new Hotel Downtown México is the centerpiece of a grand colonial palace said to have belonged to Moctezuma’s descendants (is that “old money” enough?). República de Guatemala 34. 2616 7057. 5512 0754. Guest rooms are minimalist to a monastic fault. high-end boutiques. with chic. high/low design appointments..gob. 5130 6830. etc. Museo del Calzado. Dr. Mon-Sat 10 am-6 pm. and also features two fashionable eateries. Saints and martyrs for days! B N BUENAS NOCHES: FABULOUS HOTELS Hotel Downtown México. Sat 12-2 pm only. Bolívar 27 (upstairs). The DF’s shoe museum. 5588 2100. museodeljuguete. splurge on a deluxe suite. this raffish antique toy collection is irresistible.A COLONIAL PALACE SAID TO HAVE BELONGED TO MOCTEZUMA’S DESCENDANTS. if you can.seen to be believed. 5521 8380. museomuraldiegorivera. OTHER NOTEWORTHY CENTRO MUSEUMS (IN BRIEF) Museo Archivo de la Fotografía. Centro Histórico Isabel la Católica 30.. Calle Colón at the corner of Balderas. Isabel la Católica 21. Avenida Hidalgo 39. Pinacoteca del Templo de la Profesa. 5521 2244. a swinging rooftop bar. org. Tues-Sun 10 am-6 pm. Miss Frida features prominently.mx. Mexican printmaking and graphic arts from the sixteenth century to the present day.mx.

CONDESA/ ROMA THE ACTION THE ADJACENT NEIGHBORHOODS KNOWN AS ROMA AND CONDESA encapsulate a lot of what people love most about Mexico City: the old/ new mix. 16 . so artists. All in all.. but Mexico City’s devastating 1985 earthquake wrought a terrible toll on the area. Funky and fabulous was only a matter of time.e. rents fell. walkable/bikeable neighborhoods. Hard to believe now. restaurants and galleries began to proliferate. chat in a smart café or meet up for a drink in its kicky. You feel it as you walk the area’s leafy streets and parks. good vibe) when it comes to life in general. Things started getting fixed up. and a boom—chic. bohemian boîtes. LGBT people moved in. a burgeoning art scene and an overall buena onda (i. free-spirited types and yes. flirty and irresistible—is in full swing. it’s hard to imagine a more thoroughly pleasant set-up for urban life. All but abandoned.

RÍO PÁN UCO L PA MA HAM BUR GO CI RC UI TO IN T A E L IA L D NC GE DE ÁN PEN DE IN ER IO R CA A A AN DI DOR ZA HAM JOSÉ VASCONCELOS BUR GO 5 6 PUEBL A 7 9 COLIM A 10 2 4 3 LEÓN JARDÍN RAMÓN LÓPEZ VELARDE 1 8 TLAXCA LA 1 Merotoro 2 Bistrot Máximo 3 Tom’s Leather Bar 4 Bar San Luis 5 Covadonga 6 Vértigo Galería 7 Sicario 8 Cine Tonalá 9 Hotel Brick 10 Hotel Condesa df 17 CENTRO RÍO TÍB ER HAV RE L VIL SE A .

restaurants. these two tidy gardens are the true heart of the Condesa. Parque México features pavilions. Avenida Álvaro Obregón (between Tonalá and Frontera Streets. and participate in the urban milieu. 18 . Calle Colima (between Tonalá and Frontera Streets. For many. yet increasingly home to quirky shops specializing in design. or even a traditional market where tasty basics like sandwiches and tacos are had on the cheap. clothing and accessories for local hipsters. Don’t miss the spectacular residential architecture as you perambulate. A buzzy Roma axis bookended by two lively. This elliptical street is one of the city’s most charming walks. quiet. all manner of loitering lovers. with its sculpture decorated median. great old apartments and soignée design boutiques. restaurants. artistes and wannabes. (Parque España: where Avenida Nuevo León meets Avenida Tamaulipas. Parque México: surrounded by Avenida México. or just general frolicking. fountains and pathways for taking a breather. Colonia Roma). Stick to neighborhood galleries if you’re looking to acquire.SIGHTS & STROLLS S S Avenida Ámsterdam. Avenida Michoacán/Avenida Nuevo León (Colonia Condesa). Colonia Roma). Venues range from old school holdovers. Parque España and Parque México. Colonia Condesa). be seen. now rediscovered. Here creative types. is home to some of the city’s most popular restaurants and bars. (One block from Parque México in any direction. weekends are especially delightful. The Roma’s main commercial drag. Colonia Condesa). adorable children and dogs of varying adorability. Both feature cafés. and the city’s flirtiest dog walking. lovely plazas. making out. Calle Orizaba (between Puebla and Querétaro Streets. home to interesting architecture. The Roma street par excellence. business execs and ladies who lunch crowd around sidewalk tables to see. Colonia Roma). to trendy spots that come and go.

WIDE-AWAKE AND RAVENOUS. Officially inspired by the New York deli. everything depends on what looked good that morning at local markets.mx.A VERY TASTY RESOURCE WHEN YOU STUMBLE OUT OF THE BARS. One of the city’s hottest tables. the kookier the mix…be on the lookout for bleary-eyed pop music stars. industrial way. the rewards are great: tapas. living up to the hype. elcalifa. EL CALIFA.. Zacatecas 126. Mon-Fri 1 pm-12 am. subdued and intimate. 5564 7799. it’s a resource—a very tasty resource— when you stumble out of the bars.com. mx. yes. Tabasco 109. Colonia Condesa.. TuesSun 1 pm-11 pm.mx. Daily 12 pm-5 am. Colonia Condesa. lacapital. 5514 3169. in a cozy bar-like space. CONTRAMAR.mx. Mon-Sat 1:30 pm-11 pm. Mon-Wed 1 pm-11 pm. Merotoro blends Mediterranean and Mexican using artisanal ingredients from heirloom farms. but more like New York Fashion Week. etc. Sun 1 pm-6 pm. especially nights. Sun 2 pm-5 pm. 5271 6285. Colonia Roma.FABULOUS CONDESA/ •ROMA RESTAURANTS ALEKZANDER. LA CAPITAL. BELMONDO. wide-awake and ravenous. Nuevo León 137. Thurs-Sat 1 pm-1 am. merotoro. Total tops beware: Broka has no set menu. Hype about exceedingly fresh. The people-watching is second only to the food’s rich. Colonia Roma. paninis. 5264 4291. MEROTORO. “. salads. 6273 2079. and entrees plus sophisticated cocktails and yummy desserts.com. Amsterdam 204.. maximobistrot. ROSETTA contemporary recipes prepared with impeccable local ingredients. Tonalá 133. Fri-Sat 1-8:30 pm. Colonia Condesa. 5256 5159. Colonia Roma. Refined in that rustic. Mon-Fri 2 pm-2 am. Wed-Sat 1 pm-1 am. contramar.” BELMONDO CONDESA/ROMA 19 . especially when the surrounding appointments—and denizens—evince such impeccable style. A hotspot that really delivers. Colonia Roma. yet delicate flavor. Sun-Thurs 1-6:30 pm. Durango 200. Sun 11 am-5 pm. for artisanal sandwiches. Álvaro Obregón 130.com.com. Contramar serves Mexican-style fish and shellfish. MÁXIMO BISTROT LOCAL. Altata 22. A tight menu focuses on tapas. alekzander.com. the beautiful people (including you) cram in. A traditional taco joint and not exactly chic. Mon-Wed 1 pm-12 am. plus warm service and a cute bungalow setting. Colonia Roma. Can there really be room for another vintagelightbulb-illumined dining room in the Roma? At Alekzander. The later it gets. A chic room that alludes to mid-century fabulous. BROKA. 4437 4285. salads and some entrées. 5264 3843. Sat 10 am-12 am. If you’re willing to roll with it.

Reckoned the city’s finest Italian. Visitors can get in on the twowheeled fun Sundays from 8 am to 2 pm. listens to music and just feels free. ROSETTA. delicately crafted and served with love in a chic. Maybe the best change of all is an increasing embrace of the bicycle. call ahead for required reservations. Colonia Apliación Daniel Garza. Updated Mexican classics plus tons of cocktails that skew fruity and girly. 20 kicked into high gear by the popular.. traffic and far too many private cars. even fashionable Ecobici shared-bike network. ALMOST DISCOLIKE. . their dogs.“NIGHTS ARE JAMMED AND FLIRTY. And did we mention how hot and eco-friendly some of these locals look astride their bikes? You’re sure to smile as everyone tools around. C B CASA LUIS BARRAGÁN The spare yet somehow baroque former residence of modernist Mexican architect Luis Barragán— a short taxi ride from Colonia Condesa—demonstrates why his work still fascinates and influences the world over. Sat 10 am-1 pm. in recent years the city has made great strides toward cleaner skies. antique-filled townhouse. Colonia Roma. Tours available in English. drawn from almost every class and condition. Nights are jammed and flirty. COMPLETE CONTROL: am. 5525 8975. when the roof is retracted and sunlight floods the dining room. Thurs-Sat 2 pm-2 Mexico City’s Bicycle Culture A REVOLUTION ON TWO WHEELS? Once notorious for its smog. but afternoons may be best of all. ROMITA COMEDOR serving up refined versions of Mexican comfort foods along with just the right amount of showmanship. ROMITA COMEDOR. don Luis put nothing—anywhere— by accident).” DIVINE LIGHT. TuesWed 2 pm-1 am. Wait for a table on the main floor. old folks. and some of the grooviest hotels have bikes you can borrow. romitacomedor. The service is almost humorously chop-chop. Mon-Sat 1 pm-11:30 pm. Perched atop a fin de siècle townhouse. Its blend of natural light. lovers of every stripe. almost disco-like. BUT AFTERNOONS COULD BE BEST. 5533 7804. and pedestrian-only streets. spiffier parks. improved public transportation. next to families. casaluisbarragan. which resident-subscribers use for short hops in central neighborhoods. Colima 166. visitors see Barragan’s furnishings. stark geometries and spatial progression is masterful. General Francisco Ramírez 12-14. 5515 4908. Soon enough you’re sailing through the city. Colonia Roma. Álvaro Obregón 49. Mon-Fri 10 am-5 pm. books and artworks as they were originally placed (and believe us. when the DF’s grand Paseo de la Reforma is closed to auto traffic. costumed oddities and of course.. the upstairs dining room is Siberia. Romita is pretty close to stunning. Bicycle lending stations (separate from Ecobici) line the avenue between Chapultepec Park and the Centro.org.com.

fast-talking crowds and lots of hotties. DIME. FASHION LOVERS. PIER 39. There’s great stuff almost everywhere you turn. Colonia Condesa. Colima 244 (upstairs). Colima 124.HIGH-DESIGN TEES— THAT LOOK GREAT ON YOUR SLIM. Casual.mx Still a fundamental Condesa reference and obligatory neighborhood stop. the collection exudes a subdued but insistent sex appeal. accessories and even retro bikes. LEMUR. but beautifully appointed.com. Jalapa 85 (at the corner of Colima). SICARIO. TWIGGY-LIKE FIGURE.com. particularly along Colima and Álvaro Obregón in the Roma. 5241 2600. but avant consumerism climaxes here in hipster heights. Colonia Roma. Álvaro Obregón 185. Rooms are tight. Original local designs in apparel for guys and girls. 5211 0592.” SICARIO CONDESA/ROMA 21 .CONSUMER SHOPPING CONDESA ROMA NOW THAT YOU’RE COMPLETELY TUNED IN TO MEXICO CITY’S EDGY DESIGN AND ARTS SCENE. Apparel—especially highdesign tees—that look great on your slim. Best of all may be the rooftop bar. Ámsterdam 258. dimetienda.. all of it cool: bags. Chic but hardly tame. 2454 6790. avant togs plus books. 5511 0396. Colonia Roma. Colonia Roma.mx. 5208 8290.ALT. apparel.com. HEADQUARTER. toys and design objects. nighttime brings fashionable. Colonia Condesa Veracruz 102. A little bit of everything.com. OCHÖ STORE. B N BUENAS NOCHES: FABULOUS HOTELS Hotel Condesa df. alongside kicky knickknacks and accessories. Álvaro Obregón 185. headquarterstore. tees. a striking lobby conjures up a louche. For men and women. Twiggy-like figure. 4622 9275. 5584 8549. On afternoons it’s like the deck of a luxury liner. MiamiBeach ’61 feel that makes everyone look like a star. 5511 1238. sailing through magnificent trees. Nuevo León 8. fashionlovers. male and female. Maybe it kicked off the whole Colima boom. even if you can’t quite place them. “. ochostore. with edgy looks and that very edgy (but harmless) guard dog. Forum for Mexico City’s most innovative and painfully chic fashionistas. grupohabita. Colonia Condesa. Colonia Roma. Colonia Roma. Check out our favorite alternative emporia.. you need the right souvenir to show off to bohemian friends back home.

com. yet it’s more about the hustle than the hook-up. Tom’s is wide-open. iPods and other amusing details. but late nights—particularly Thursdays— Covadonga is catnip for the city’s literary and media types. When did fluorescent light get hip? It looks like a VFW hall. Service evinces a harmless cosa nostra feel. Puebla 121. Álvaro Obregón 64. A subdued tower features rooms with a cool-luxe feel. Colonia Roma. Big nights feature several dance floors whose djs push the disco envelope. CONDESA/ ROMA LGBT CANTINAS BARS & CLUBS KEN.com. serving up live salsa bands. Insurgentes 357. between Colonia Roma and the Centro. grooves and go-go boys galore. TOM’S LEATHER BAR. Tues-Sun 9 pm3:30 am. hotelbrick. your blond hair will go over big at the bar. 5525 1100. mostly male crew of flirty dance fanatics. taxi dancers and loungelizards who still know how to move. bohemianish. Colonia Roma. indeed. Common areas occupy an early twentiethcentury mansion—once a bordello—now beautifully restored (we love the tile floor) in chic antiques and contemporary pieces.B N BUENAS NOCHES: FABULOUS HOTELS Hotel Brick. Bar San Luis comes from the old school. living. favored by a youngish. Leather? Mostly found on patrons’ feet. Félix. set in a Castle von Dracula meets Prince Valiant setting.com.com. Thurs only 10 pm6am. who share space with domino-slamming old-timers. Going shirtless is practically required. The hotel terrace is marvelous at breakfast or cocktail time. edgy fashions and other bohemian follies. Men only. with blue movies. Tues 12 pm-10 “CHATTY PATRONS FILL SMALL TABLES. banquetescovadonga. restaurants and. The crowd skews late-twenties up and the cruising is relentless. But beyond that. immodest “interactive” strippers and a raunchy backroom (watch your valuables). The Brick galvanized Roma as a zone of fashionable stores. Daily 10 pm-3 am. 4612 1755. Colonia Roma Orizaba 95. Colonia Roma. swank/dive combo. DISPORT THEMSELVES ON THRIFTSTORE SOFAS OR SPILL OUT LILIT TO THE STREET. toms-mexico. Mon-Sun 1 pm-2 am. Mon-Sat 8 pm-3 am. OTHER ROMA/CONDESA NIGHTLIFE OF INTEREST Bar San Luis. recently moved to a new location in the heart of the Roma. Havana before the Revolution in a classically DF. LIVING. Be ready for tablehopping. mx. outfitted with Kiehl’s. Named for Barbie’s ex. San Luis Potosí 26.mx. One of the city’s largest dance palaces. Covadonga. Colonia Roma. 5533 2922. 5512 7281. Bucareli 144. An ultra-popular Thursday club. Álvaro Obregón 291. with lights. neighbors. Colonia Condesa. 5564 0728. intense conversation. twinks cluster on a pop-music patio. 5264 0318.” 22 .

: The bartenders pour ’em tall. Tania Solomonoff is an artist whose wide-ranging. monolithic. Lavista 189. Centro. 1 pm-1 am.blogspot. Saturday afternoons. A sexy sliver of a bar packed nightly with a mixed crew of convivials. Orizaba 125-E. It’s truly extraordinary! Plaza Morelos. Colonia Roma. Cozy and packed with vintage style. Thurs-Sat 12 pm-1 am. Shall we call it “cantina chic”? La Bonita might be the place you try pulque. Emilio Donde at Enrico Martínez. Mérida 186. Old folks dancing. behind a dumpy barrio façade. Centro.org. installation. mnroyclub. Fridays 8:30 pm. Silent. Lilit serves up carefully crafted cocktails while attractive. Diego Rivera’s fortress like studio. 5264 2669. FELIX 23 CONDESA/ROMA CENTRO . Tamaulipas 104. T TOP 5 5 Mexico City’s Coolest Reveal Their Favorite DF Pleasures TANIA SOLOMONOFF. N. chatty patrons fill small tables.com.B. 5617 4310. The crowd is über easy on the eyes and the glam is palpable. Lucha Libre at Arena México. La Bonita. disport themselves on thrift-store sofas or spill out into the street. Wed 12 pm-12 am. otherworldly sculpture garden.mx. Well-heeled. Sun 1-6pm.mx. Café La Habana. one block from Calle Bucareli. Café La Habana. WedSun 11 am-5:30 pm. Calle Museo 150. Tues 1-11 pm. Prepare for time on line and other velvet-rope-related gate-keeping. Great toward dusk after a sunny day. I love the lights and the fans in their favorite wrestlers’ costumes…the euphoria is real and intense. Near the Centro Cultural UNAM on the National University Campus.com. Morelos 62 (at Bucareli). museoanahuacalli. 5546 0255. lilit. Arena México. Every Saturday at 12. primal. seniors dress up to dance the tango-like danzón in a public park. Wed-Sat. Lilit. well-funded revelers shake their tail-feathers till all hours. Cuban coffee from the old school. Tues-Sun 6 pm-2 am. N. Sun 8 am-11 pm. intense. Follow her at taniasolomonoff. 11 pm-6 am. Plaza Morelos. Colonia Doctores. thoughtful work encompasses drawing. Colonia Condesa. A trippy. Roy. poetry and other media. cmll. M. an ancient libation in every flavor from strawberry and pineapple to oats (full-disclosure: even some Mexicans detest it). Sun 12 pm-7 pm. Espacio Escultórico.mx. Wed-Sat.pm. Artist Museo Anahuacalli. Colonia San Pablo Tepetlapa (near Coyoacán). Mon-Sat 7 am-1 am. I love watching the waitstaff as they hustle in and out of the kitchen. 5211 7098. Dr. Colonia Roma. photography.

cinetonala. bold. An influential contemporary space. Izcabaleta 77. immaculately run. Colonia Roma Sur. Zacatecas 173. houseofgaga. 5256 2494. 5277 5418. Colonia Condesa. Colonia Roma. Don’t worry—they do hot water. In any case. El Patio 77. ARRÓNIZ ARTE CONTEMPORÁNEO. Still other artists take up eyewinking “realism” to concoct pure fantasy. EDS GALERÍA. Durango 204. photography and installation. casacomtesse. and perfectly placed in the heart of Condesa. A film forum featuring everything from contemporary Mexican to classics and cult favorites. Benjamin Franklin 197. A forum CINE TONALÁ 24 .com. Other work advances the conceptual to create humorous minimalism in contrast to the city’s chaos. our favorite Roma/Condesa galleries. GALERÍA DESIRÉ SAINT PHALLE.B N BUENAS NOCHES: FABULOUS HOTELS GAY FRIENDLY B&BS Mexico City’s B&Bs—though few in number—offer a more intimate option that many LGBT travelers especially enjoy. com. 5256 2316. Specialties include conceptual art.com. A newcomer that promotes both established and emerging artists. Some work presents revisionist iterations of traditional muralism and twentieth-century graphic design. passionate expressions—abstract and figurative. 5264 4101. 5525 1435. with in-home settings (typically a grand old mansion) and hosts more akin to fun new friends than hotel staff. Nightly wine tasting means great conversation with fellow travelers. 6305 0364. ANONYMOUS GALLERY.com. elpatio77. Warm and friendly. and in a gracious 30’s-era house. com. Great antiques and clean lines—plus the staff couldn’t be nicer. call ahead for best results.com. 5207 2369. Reduce your footprint at the DF’s “Eco-B&B.” nestled in an edgy up-and-coming area. theredtreehouse. Colonia Condesa. 5584 3829. Refined. Provocation is a prerequisite. a lot of it on view in Roma/Condesa galleries. Note: Gallery hours can be capricious. 5511 7965. is one of the city’s most extraordinary currentday superlatives. The Red Tree House.com. Cuernavaca 142.com. home to work by Mexico’s most promising creators. edsgaleria. Culiacán 6. Colonia San Rafael. Here are some favorites. arroniz-arte. Casa Comtesse. Colonia Condesa. 5592 8452. ARS GRATIA ARTIS: THE CONDESA/ROMA GALLERY SCENE TALENT AND IMAGINATION ON THE PART OF DF ARTISTS. often focused on Mexico’s urban artists. anonymousgallery. condesahaus. Atlixco 32. edgy and beautiful—are never hard to find. Colima 25A. Colonia Condesa. especially in these. yet now something entirely new. An outpost of the famed New York dealer. desiresaintphalle. Colonia Roma. Colonia Roma. CINE TONALÁ.com. GAGA ARTE CONTEMPORÁNEO. Condesa Haus. Colonia Roma.com. just like the owners. Tonalá 261. Plaza Río de Janeiro 53.

ephemera. Colima 143. with some exceptions. 5525 4500. northwest of the Centro Histórico. 5207 9858. Everything from furniture and housewares to artworks. galeriaomr. Colonia Roma. books. Roma.. Álvaro Obregón 49. GURÚ. 5533 7140. Centro. MonSat 10 am-7pm. TRAEGER & PINTO. jewelry and silver candelabras that would make Liberace blush. Sun 10 am6pm.com. from cheap magnets for the girls in the office to guayabera shirts. music. along the Paseo de la Refoma between Comonfort and Jaime Nunó Streets. the beautiful. Colonia Roma. eyeglasses and artifacts from the high-design 1968 Mexico City Olympiad. the nostalgic or the kitschy. VÉRTIGO GALERÍA. Balderas at Emilio Donde. toys. tiki. plus an emphasis on young and emerging artists. Colonia Roma. Sundays. GARASH GALERÍA for young and emerging artists and the launch-pad for a number of recent sensations. Plaza Río de Janeiro 52. Saturdays and Sundays. surrealism.com. low-brow. 5511 1179. Colonia Roma. is the focus. approximately 10 am to 5 pm. vintage radios and phonographs. heavy on installation. there’s also ephemera. garashgaleria. photography and collage. Mercado la Ciudadela. Mexico City’s flea markets do not disappoint. Tianguis de Cuauhtémoc. and a regular player at international art fairs. eyeglasses. Every possible souvenir. furs (!) plus hats. GARASH GALERÍA. traegerpinto. a major force behind the DF’s current street level (and above) design boom. Originally focused on books and toys. Home to some of the city’s finest graphic design. urban art with design sense and humor. The very latest in contemporary trends. retro. movie memorabilia. Contemporary Mexican painting. GALERÍA OMR. vertigogaleria. Contemporary pop art. Ignacio Chávez Plaza on Cuauhtémoc Avenue just east of Colonia Roma. gurugalleryshop..com. 5207 3590. approximately 10 am-4 pm. LA LAGUNILLA CONDESA/ROMA CENTRO 25 . Colima 179. La Lagunilla.com.Old Mexico: The City’s Flea Markets For the queer eye that seeks the unique. One of the Roma’s most prestigious.com. in and around Dr. Not to be missed. Colima 23.

in glam surroundings that bring out the superstar in us all. the neighborhood enjoys a dense urban fabric. so a splurge (or two) is essential DF. As with any five-star bubble. 26 . Polanco is home to a great many of Mexico City’s very finest restaurants. there are excesses and follies. PLAYGROUND AND STAGE SET FOR SOME OF MEXICO CITY’S WEALTHIEST—and an impressive urban tableau. SHOPPING CENTER. is a showcase for much of the city’s most creative design. At the same time. well-turned-out neighbors (plus pampered pooches) that you’ve got to check out.POLANCO GLAM POLANCO IS HOME BASE. Polanco’s chefs often make great food sublime. and is chock-a-block with comely. art and décor. even if you don’t spend a peso. Not least of all. fashion.

PRESIDE NTE MASARY K 3 5 9 4 6 8 10 AV. C HIVAT SIERR A MAD RE ITO BOSQUE DE CHAPULTEPEC 1 Museo Soumaya 2 Pujol 3 Biko 4 Dulce Patria/Hotel Las Alcobas 5 Patricia Conde Galería 6 Revés 7 Ka 8 Carla Fernández 9 Common People 10 Hotel Habita 27 CENTRO 2 . UR SE BINA LÍS EOS DE LO SA LP ES CAM POS ELÍS EOS RUB ÉN DAR ÍO CALZ. PRESIDENTE MASARYK 7 CAM PO LUIS G.1 JUAN VÁZQUEZ DE MELLA MOLIÈRE ALFREDO DE MUSSET SOLÓN AV.

Here’s to the ladies who lunch—in their fur-clad. 5283 3054. DULCE PATRIA. CENTRAL BRASSERIE. a cool. biko. Rise above the frenetic dolce vita along Emilio Castelar to Bar Tomate. Sun 1:30 pm-5:30 pm. Is Quintonil looking to give “FRILLY TABLEWARE THAT CONNECTS YOU WITH YOUR LE MAT INNER GRANDMOTHER. Routinely rated one of the top restaurants on the planet. and the Mexican food they throw down is pura tradición—rich. lemat. haciendadelosmorales. Mon-Sat 1:30-5 pm and 8-11 pm. They love it at Dulce Patria. aupieddecochon. loft-like space that’s home to salty tapas and every possible iteration of the eponymous red fruit. 5280 2680. grupotragaluz. ENO. Open daily 1:30 pm-12:30 am. dearly coiffed glory. Stylish Le Mat highlights French-inspired cuisine with no fear of cream. Sun 1 pm-7 pm. salads. Tues-Sat 8 pm12 am.” with artisanal sandwiches plus soups.com. 5545 4111. Chef Enrique Olvera never stops searching for the perfect balance of ingredients. Vázquez de Mella 525. Francisco Petrarca 258.com. but we’ve never been disappointed. 5545 5628. HACIENDA DE LOS MORALES. pujol. Masaryk 407. Pricey yes. Sun-Mon 8 am-5 pm. El Bajío is fun and gaily-colored. delicate presentation and all kinds of Mexican flavors. Sun 1:30 pm-6 pm. MonSat 8:30 am-11 pm.mx.mx. Francisco Petrarca 254. MonWed 1:30 pm-12 am. More ostentatious than chic. Open 24/7.” 28 . Everyone looks great against Biko’s creamy contemporary lines.com.com. Masaryk 123.FABULOUS POLANCO RESTAURANTS AU PIED DE COCHON.con. com. A rich antidote to the icy. Emilio Castelar 229. misbehaving celebrities. dulcepatriamexico. 5531 8535. cheese or butter (from which fellow diners seem to suffer no weight gain). intense.mx. Get your French bistro on. 5280 6099. Thurs-Sun 1:30 pm-1:30 am.com. eno. Campos Elíseos 218 (in the Hotel Presidente). Sun 9 am-5 pm. fun-loving chefs double-track traditional Basque (isn’t it time you tried it?) plus the latest flavors and techniques. centralbrasserie. Mon-Fri 7 am-10 pm. but where else can you get a tasty coq au vin or steak frites at 4 in the morning? The wee hours are best for spotting sloshy. delicious and delightfully comforting. fruit ades.mx. com. PUJOL. Mon-Sat 1:30-11:30 pm. 5327 7756.com. desserts and other “simple” delights. Emilio Castelar 149. Mon-Sat 1:30 pm-5 pm and 7 pm-11 pm. EL BAJÍO. QUINTONIL. flavorless tomato currently found north of the border. where nouvelle Mexican is presented in colors and forms you might sooner expect at an art gallery. Pujol’s celebrity chef posits his Eno outpost as a refined “corner store. eating is believing. 5281 1962. quintonil. Remember lunch with mother at the Country Club? Relive the moment at this splendid hacienda awash in conquistador chic. Alejandro Dumas 7. Newton 55.com. BIKO. 5282 2064. carnitaselbajio. Mon-Sat 1-5 pm and 7 pm-11 pm. And the welcome couldn’t be warmer. The results are extraordinary.mx. BAR TOMATE. 3300 3999. Mon-Sat 1 pm-12 am. In the kitchen. 5281 8245.com. Anatole France 100. Sun 9 am-10 pm.mx. Who cares if you and your date are the youngest ones in the place? LE MAT. in a gorgeous room that’s cozy and sexy at once. Frilly tableware connects you with your inner grandmother.

5280 6070.” a garden of chic. SIR WINSTON CHURCHILL’S. Insurgentes Sur. Temístocles 61.mx. a total nostalgia trip.com. curries and entrees. Camacho 67. The national university’s 1950s-era campus. 5281 8112. The celebrity chef’s market and “deli. 5538 1651. The Ciudad Universitaria. with mid-century architecture at its boldest and most stylish. A spectacular modernist “honeycomb” creates the far-out setting that is Tori-Tori. feel the glam at macariojimenez. Sun 1-7 p.Pujol a run for its money? Imaginative Mexican that delights as it dances across the palate. winstonchurchills. color and tradition. Mon-Sat 1-11 pm.” T TOP 5 5 Mexico City’s Coolest Reveal Their Favorite DF Pleasures MACARIO JIMÉNEZ. Fashion Designer BAR TOMATE Delirio de Mónica Patiño.mx. Colonia Algarín (near Metro Lázaro Cárdenas). TORI TORI.com. Macario Jiménez is known for women’s clothes that emphasize flowing lines. Colonia Roma. “THE WEE HOURS ARE BEST FOR SPOTTING SLOSHY. El Palacio Postal is like no other building in the world—a grand golden cage—and a Mexico City must-see.com. Centro. Mon-Sat 1 pm-1 am. yet earthly delights. Juan Hernández y Dávalos 40. but delicious—better than what you last ate in London. Tacuba 28. POLANCO CENTRO 29 . Absurd yes. Prime rib and Yorkshire pudding amid the campy pomp of an Olde English manse. 5518 4950. great for soothing hangovers. toritori. Near the 2600 block of Av. Old Mexico in food. Tacuba 1. herby variation of the pork and hominy stew. Main post office. Centro. Manuel A. And we love the casual tables on the patio. one of the city’s very best for sushi plus the full slate of Japanese noodles. 5584 0870. delirio. Restaurante Los Tolucos. His namesake Polanco atelier opened in 1994. sensuality and rich. The fabulous downtown post office. Monterrey 116. The city’s best pozole verde—a rich. cafedetacuba.com. MISBEHAVING CELEBRITIES. Café de Tacuba. understated glamour.

mx. Lafontaine 73. KURIMANZUTTO. By architect Ricardo Legorreta. A winning mix of emerging talent alongside “name-brand” creators. Polanco.com. Gob. Las Alcobas. LUIS ADELANTADO MÉXICO. Its galleries are a big part of the contemporary Latin American art boom that has so many global collectors in a frenzy. Polanco. Rafael Rebollar 94. No buyer’s regret here. ART QUEENS. An outpost of the famed Spanish gallery.com. warm. luisadelantadomexico. Mexico’s sole gallery focused on photography.com. com. lasalcobas.com. ocean-like fountain at the porte-cochère as well as the Rufino Tamayo mural in the restaurant. 5280 1710. oodles of Rodins. Here you may find anything—except boring. Ampliación Daniel Garza. 5256 2408. 5280 5183.B N BOOM CONTEMPORÁNEO: THE POLANCO ART SCENE GALLERY GIRLS. Labor adds an edgier. And while bargains are hard to find. GALERÍA LÓPEZ QUIROGA. in this chic.com. Colonia Ampliación Granada (aka Polanco Nuevo). creamy retreat enlivened by bold furnishings and beautiful burnished woods. PATRICIA CONDE GALERÍA. Presidente Masaryk 201. 5290 6345. 3300 3900. General Francisco Ramírez 5. Horacio 1549. call ahead for best results. Now considered one of the most influential galleries in Latin America. Dig the fascinating. now subject to re-appreciation. Hot pink and taxicab yellow are your new favorite colors. MUSEO SOUMAYA. BUENAS NOCHES: HAUTE HOTELS THREE POLANCO SUPERSTARS Camino Real. built for the 1968 Mexico City Olympiad.com. 6304 8755. Mexico’s first design hotel and an early manifestation of what led to the city’s current design renaissance. others defend a democratic gift (entry is free) to those who normally cannot afford museums. kurimanzutto. plus not-uninteresting “second-tier” stuff) makes it a glorified attic. Gallery hours can be capricious. Habita. 5545 6645. Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra 303. And the Soumaya’s spaceage structure (an armored blender?) is worth the “price of admission” alone. but there is whimsy and sexy where you least expect it. Mariano Escobedo 700. often conceptual perspective to the Polanco mix. the work is edgy. particularly photographers.mx. The world’s richest man. caminoreal. the Camino Real reflects an exuberant design moment in Mexico. then drop. 5282 3100. original and beautiful.org. labor. And that scene on the roof just won’t quit.com. AND AESTHETES of every stripe discover another pole of the DF art scene in Polanco. Minimalist rooms posit a marvelous zen. San Miguel Chapultepec. GALERÍA ENRIQUE GUERRERO. A transplant from Colonia Roma. the work is routinely brilliant and always merits a look-see. lopezquiroga. some sketchy late Dalí. Mexican communications magnate Carlos Slim. Presidente Masasryk 390. the emphasis is edgy and conceptual. Shop. Laguna de Términos 260. Colonia Anáhuac. Aristóteles 169. displays his extensive art collection at the Museo Soumaya.com. Polanco. 5263 8888. patriciacondegaleria. soumaya. Stellar works by twentieth-century masters. LUIS ADELANTADO MÉXICO 30 . Some say its eclecticism (antique furniture. hotelhabita. the work shown is never less than beautiful. galeriaenriqueguerrero. 5616 3731. LABOR.

displayed with an inspiring appreciation of the rococo. refulgent silver. Mon-Fri 9 am-7 pm. enter at the rear of the restaurant). No one enters.” CARLA FERNÁNDEZ. Kepler 5. 2614 6031. com. commonpeole.com.net. Contemporary accessories and jewelry in cool. And when you’re ready to act locally. 5282 2720. TANE. COMMON PEOPLE. Avenida Presidente Masaryk.. Couture designs— including menswear—are mad.SILVER. Fernández’s striking clothes assert woman as both goddess and warrior. EDGY. Twentiethcentury furnishings and objêts d’art personally curated by sexy antiquarian Emmanuel Picault. 5282 6200. So if you’re the type who can’t go a week without Saks. 5281 0800. Silk accessories in a fusion of Mexican motifs and Hermes-like luxe. OF INTEREST Jules Basement. talk to concierges to get in. Fri only 10:30 till close. Wow ’em at your next event with TB’s silver jewelry and tableware in the traditional vein. futuristic and totally badass. Colonia Anzures.com. in a topsy-turvy setting that out-gilds even them. PINEDA COVALÍN. Laguna de Tamiahua 99 esq. Moliere 58A. Mon-Sat 10 am-7 pm. Sat 11 am-5 pm.com. Campos Elíseos 215 at Galileo (with branches throughout the city). who’s not on the list. Pop music is the dance fuel. 5281 6775.com. Mon-Sat 9 am to 8 pm. luxe and louche. Julio Verne 93 (basement.mx. Miami-style madness and house grooves Friday nights.com. tane. Pop music and disco divas in English—in case you’re feeling homesick. Tues-Sat 11 am-9 pm. A mansion-ful of the best. plus nearby malls like Plaza Antara. Sun 11 am-8 pm.com. Lago de Texcoco. 5280 1278.. julesbasement. 4612 1755. ballesteros. and at the very top. Masaryk 336. there’s flawless décor. Colonia Polanco. Ferragamo or Gucci. celeste. Avenida Paseo de las Palmas 215. Polanco’s main drag. Polanco.. Once inside. envytheclub. Revés. FUTURISTIC.mx. 04455 1378 0992. carlafernandez. 5912 8010. Perhaps the most exclusive LGBT joint in town. “. Virgilio 25. Plaza Moliere and Plaza Carso have got you covered. Colonia Anáhuac. check out the following hometown boutiques for luxury that acts globally. Ask about the dirty stuff. chicbyaccident. designer stuff available. Polanco. trista. 5545 4109. com. Envy. 5250 3623 (by appointment only). well-dressed Polanco boys and girls to dance weekends at high-end neighborhood clubs. MonSat 11 am-7:30 pm.MAD.. 31 POLANCO CENTRO .com. Ka. the hauteur is really shyness—so make your move and let the disco ball weave its magic spell. CELESTE HOUSE POLANCO BARS & CLUBS LGBT Ask all those fit. Guilt. Through the looking glass with the city’s jeunesse dorée. libations and patrons. edgy. they say. Lomas de Chapultepec (just northwest of the Polanco district). Sat only 10 pm-4am. mx. tank tops and baseball caps) and take money. The vibe is lounge. Dress up (skip the shorts. CHIC BY ACCIDENT. Emilio Castelar 149. a gorgeous spa. AND TOTALLY BADASS. TRISTA. Anatole France 120. LV. Mon-Fri 11 am-8 pm. a psychedelic tearoom/bar that wows. TALLER BALLESTEROS. Lights and sound are spectacular and the crowd is hot. most glittering quarter. Books. Sat 11 am-6 pm. pinedacovalin. Fri only 11 pm-6 am. always perfumed and packed. Masaryk 126. Mon-Fri 11 am-8 pm. CELESTE HOUSE. Tues-Sat 8 pm-2 am. Masaryk 430.SILKEN SPECTACULAR: SHOPPING POLANCO YOUR MONEY IS JUST AS GOOD AS ANYONE ELSE’S IN MEXICO CITY’S flashiest. plus one of the city’s comeliest crowds. music and furnishings. WedSat 5 pm-2 am. Colonia Polanco.

in a handful of bars and at a scrappy pride parade that began with fewer than 100 participants. and a pride party that some say is the city’s most widely attended public event.TH IER S ZONA ROSA (INCLUDING CHAPULTEPEC PARK) DARWIN THE GOE ON MILT CA DES STARTING IN THE 1980S. romance. Thirty years later the neighborhood shows how far we’ve come. MEXICO’S GAY COMMUNITY BEGAN TO TAKE shape in the Zona Rosa. 32 JOSÉ VASCONCELOS CARNIVAL QUEEN CI RC UI TO IN TE RI OR SHA KES PEA RE LEIB NITZ S RTE . great gay-friendly hotels. remember the old queen took her knocks so you and millions of LGBT Mexicans could dance. So if she looks a little ragged around the edges. with innumerable nightspots. love—even marry—this Saturday night.

RÍO BAL CORREGID ORA MA RÍO NAZ AS RS RÍO RÍO TÍB PÁN UCO R LO APA ÍO P N APA L PA MA HAM BUR GO OR LA DE CIA EL DEN G ÁN PEN DE IN 2 6 HAM BUR GO 1 5 A A AN DI DOR ZA CA 8 10 7 3 9 4 HAM GO BUR L RE OND S PUEBL A 1 Bellinghausen 2 Lipstick 3 El Nuevo Vaquero 4 La Lanterna 5 Botas Bar 6 Gayta/Pussy 7 Nicho Bears & Bar 8 Hotel Geneve 9 La Fonda del Refugio 10 El Almacén 33 CENTRO E AVR EL H RIS TIG RÍO O UBI DAN RÍO N RHI RÍO G RÍO A UAD IVIR LQU G RÍO PO RÍO A NAV RÍO A RÍO S RÍO ENA A IAN UAD MA AS ZON HE OET RÍO ISIP MIS I IL SEV ER DUB LÍN LA .

com. themed “international” restaurants. Daily 1 pm-7 pm.com.mx. Today much of the glitter has faded. elegant “international. fondaelrefugio. Someone at the next table always mentions being there forty years ago. Checkered tablecloth Italian. Sun 1:305:30 pm. Paseo de la Reforma 316.mx. the Zona Rosa was one of the most glamorous neighborhoods in all Latin America. Río Nilo 42. A smart French bistro. Traditional service at a spiffy chophouse. in a beautiful mansion and garden. Second Section of Chapultepec Park. Mon-Thurs 1 pm-6 pm.” LA FONDA DEL REFUGIO. Ignore the attempts at modernization and insist on a table in the untouched front room. Mon-Sat 1:30-11:30 pm..FABULOUS ZONA ROSA RESTAURANTS BELLINGHAUSEN. chaletsuizo. BISTROT MOSAICO. soon to disappear. Scurrying waiters ultimately become live entertainment. Sun 12 pm-10 pm. Thurs-Fri 10 am-12 am. Liverpool 166.STILL A CLASSIC. ELAGO. including real-live waiters from Gay Paree. 5207 9969. Praga 14. Mon-Sat 12 pm11 pm.com. Mon-Thurs 7:30 am-11 pm. Colonia Cuauhtémoc. practically forgotten. Snag a table on the bamboo pavilion by the koi and rubber starfish lagoon. with power personalities. BISTRO ARLEQUÍN. 5525 8128. A veteran from the Zona Rosa’s glory days (one of Liz Taylor and Richard Burton’s favorite places they say). Londres 95. but for many. A casual boîte. Mon-Sat 1-10:30 pm. Sun 1 pm-6 pm. mx. .. carved wood and other Swiss Missy appointments. elago. not always easy to find in the DF.” not unlike CASA BELL a 60s-era world’s fair pavilion. mx. Fri-Sat 1 pm-11 pm. Live lounge music careens from “Moon River” and “Flashdance” to theme from “Star Wars. “Exotic” Chinese from the Fu Manchu/Honolulu school. bellinghausen. right on gorgeous Reforma Boulevard. “. Daily 1-11 pm. Sun 10 am-4:30 pm. Mon-Wed 10 am-11 pm. 5207 4978. LA LANTERNA Jet Set Mexicano GHOSTS OF THE ZONA ROSA CHALET SUIZO Niza 37. yet still a classic for yummy high-end Mexican. 5515 9585. with steaks and chops from the old school. Dating from the Revolution. Sat 10 am-11 pm. LUAÚ Niza 38. 5207 5616. Good wines at decent prices.com. luau. A soaring. with wine labels as wallpaper and a “Bankamericard Welcome” sticker on the door. Casual but oh-so civilized. Daily 1 pm-7 pm. Lago Mayor (no number). 34 During the 1950s and 60s. the DF’s most authentic French. LA LANTERNA Paseo de la Reforma 458. Fri-Sat 7:30 am-11:45 pm. 5208 4290. filled with stained glass.ONE OF LIZ TAYLOR AND RICHARD BURTON’S FAVORITE PLACES. 5511 4471. bistrotmosaico. jammed with high-end nightclubs and swanky.” CASA BELL.com.com.mx. 5525 7474. but hardcore nostalgiacs should make the pilgrimage to these campy holdouts. 5514 0450.

CABARETITO. Thurs-Sun 9 pm-4 am. always crowded. LA BOTICA DANCE. Londres 77. no published telephone. How many young’uns can you pack into a disco ball? 42 is determined to push the envelope. Amberes 18. with gogo femmes and a hot sisterly vibe. with strippers weekends and bawdy burlesque on Thursdays. Fry 5 pm-3 am. 5207 9424. latterly favored by girls as well as boys. EL ALMACÉN Bare bones. Niza 47. “START LATE AND GO LATE. BOTAS BAR. Wed-Thurs.com. low and otherwise. 04455 1298 8011. suite 20. 5511 1384. Wed 6 pm-12 am. LA BOTICA. perennially popular. dance.. 5208 0352. including some naughty dark areas (libidinous boys should watch their valuables). twink central for dance and flirt.mx. Daily 8 pm-3 am. with something doing every night of the week plus rainbow-colored madness on weekends. now pushing forty years in business. Heavy on cruising. no published phone. Emphasis on come-hither go-go boys downstairs.ZONA ROSA LGBT BARS & CLUBS HERE IT IS: MEXICO’S LARGEST CONCENTRATION OF LGBT NIGHTLIFE. with infectious cumbia. Fri-Sun 6 pm-3:30 pm. Gayta for boogie boys. Pussy favors the Sapphic sisters. Daily 12 pm-2 am. 04455 1593 8690. no published phone. laid-back vibe. be ready to dance. Sat 4 pm-2:30 am. Fun honky-tonk for boys and girls. Thurs and Sat 6 pm-3 am. Sun 6 pm-12 am. GAYTA/PUSSY. upstairs is officially lesbian. high. Sun 10 pm-3 am. Fri-Sat 10 pm-5 am. Fri 3 pm-2:30 am. Thurs 6 pm-1:30 am. Florencia 67. Mon-Thurs 6 pm-2 am. 5525 0439. One of the very first gay spots in Latin America. 42 BAR. Thurs-Sat 6 pm-3 am. EL NUEVO VAQUERO. plus dance and drag. dance.” 35 ZONA ROSA . Amberes 1. the dancing goes from Latin to pop to ballads. Londres 132. LA SUITE CLUB. with a mixed boy/girl ratio and a friendly. Humble but heartfelt. labotica. BE READY TO DANCE. Disco with a surprising amount of hook-up. Heaven for those prowling the urban cowboy. CRONOZ. Start late and go late. Florencia 37. More about energy than elegance. norteña and salsa dancing. Vintage-look cantina and major flirt zone. DANCE. Mon-Sat 6 pm-2 am. EL ALMACÉN. Tues 6-11 pm. Amberes 21. Amberes 4.

do not miss the broad boulevard the forms the neighborhood’s northern border: Paseo de la Reforma. Thurs-Sat 3 pm-3 am. NICHO’S. The DF’s bear bar.com. ultra-friendly. trees and monuments. Wed-Sat 10 pm-5 am. wix. and even her Majesty’s marble water closet. PAPI FUN BAR. no published phone. lounge areas and a pop-music patio. the European-born Emperor and Empress who ruled Mexico from 1863-1867. 5208 1947. TOUCH. Handsome. Amberes 11. Going for a slightly higher tone (i. latin grooves and techno. Amberes 24. The high-end choice on Amberes with dancing. Peoplewatching peaks at lunchtime or on bike-only Sundays. Newcomer club in an elegant townhouse. no published telephone. popularly called El Ángel. Climb up to Chapultepec Castle. all more cuddly than ferocious. OTHER NOTEWORTHY CHAPULTEPEC SITES (IN BRIEF) Museo de Arte Moderno. Thurs-Sat. cover) on multiple levels that range from cabaret to thunka-thunka disco. refulgent china. Fry-Sat 6 pm-3 am. mad crowded—and that’s why they love it. Londres 182.gob. flirty. plus they certainly got the dance right. Thurs-Sat 3 pm-3 am. with rotating entertainment that ranges from live rock to karaoke. Thurs-Sat 7 pm-3 am. well-heeled crowd of all ages. 36 FIT FOR AN EMPRESS PASEO DE LA REFORMA AND CHAPULTEPEC PARK As you explore the Zona Rosa. Sun-Wed 3 pm-2 am. Amberes 1. MACHO DANCE BAR.com..LE CIRQUE NUIT BAR. an expansive. castillodechapultepec.com. antiques.mx. bearmex. West of the Zona Rosa lies Chapultepec Park. Here they start early and go late. particularly the Monumento a la Independencia.e. 5208 3755. LIPSTICK. Thursdays is ladies-who-do -ladies night. is the unofficial symbol of the city. Museo Nacional de Historia. More twink than macho. Flashy and loungy. Amberes 12. 5514 4920. The pile is awash in queenly delights like gilt carriages. 10 pm-till closing. Liverpool 100. fun. Sun-Wed 3 pm-2 am. Gandhi at Reforma (no number) inside CHAPULTEPEC CASTLE . MonThurs 6 pm-12 pm. no published telephone. Originally built in honor of Mexico’s Empress Carlota (see below). 5511 9973. no published phone. machodancebar. Tues-Sun 9 am-5 pm. Thurs-Sun 8 pm-2 am. and well-tended garden that combines monuments and museums with a marvelous human element. lively. papifunbar. it is now lined with imposing skyscrapers. Only illumined by video screens.com.inah. with rotating djs and parties. Amberes 14. Lately Thursdays have been about drag and transgender. Fri-Sat 7 pm-2:30 am. Amberes 18. bear-cubs and otters. with the full range of ursines. Electric and compact. the DF’s answer to the Champs-Elysees. dark and sweaty. a beaux-arts column whose crowning figure. crystal. LOLLIPOP.. but flirty and packed close. SEVEN. Think Cher’s joint in Burlesque. preserved in all but name as a shrine to Maximilian and Carlota. filled with freshly-minted eye-candy. lecirquemx.

5525 9066.mx. Colonia Condesa. Estrasburgo 31 at Amberes. mna. Watch out for Zorba-style flying plates! Alfonso Reyes 96. 5286 1384.” the Hermanas Vampiro perform Sunday nights at Papi Fun Bar in the Zona Rosa.com. the cinema and music. agapimu. Drag Superstars Agapi Mu. Mexico’s pop culture museum is an orgy for the senses that combines ideas. Rainbowland. A fabulous Mediterranean joint. so there’s a bodacious 365/24/7 flower stand in the heart of the Roma.org. museotamayo.CHAPULTEPEC PARK Chapultepec Park. Museo del Estanquillo. Colonia Roma. org.gob.com. literature.mx. 5553 6332. TuesSun 10 am-6 pm. The Vatican Museum of Mexico’s pre-Colombian civilizations. At the corner of Insurgentes and Medellín Streets. In a hurry? Jump to Maya and Aztec galleries for greatest hits—but in fact it’s all fascinating. Billed as “Latin America’s Most Important Drag Act. 5521 3052. Come out in a blaze of rainbow colors. Love and grand gestures do not follow a regular schedule. T TOP 5 5 Mexico City’s Coolest Reveal Their Favorite DF Pleasures HERMANAS VAMPIRO. Gandhi at Reforma (no number) inside Chapultepec Park. Museo Nacional de Antropología. Isabel la Católica 26. Follow their ever-changing moods at facebook. Urban adventure for treasure hunters. All-Night Flower Stand. The permanent collection is home to contemporary “names” like Rothko and Miró. The median strip on Álvaro Obregón Street in the Roma.inah. The Flea Market on Álvaro Obregón. 37 ZONA ROSA CENTRO . 5286 6519.com/LasHermanasVampiro. Gandhi at Reforma (no number) inside Chapultepec Park. Museo Tamayo Arte Contemporáneo. Saturdays approximately 10 am to 5 pm. museodelestanquillo. Tues-Sun 9 am-7pm. at the boutique with everything from souvenirs to sexy surprises. A sensual mid-century space houses classics you know—Rivera and Siqueiros—plus artworks you should know. 5553 6233. Tues-Sun 10 am-5:30 pm. mam. The 1966 museum structure still impresses.mx.com. Zona Rosa. temporary shows are among Latin America’s finest. rainbowland.

Skews older but there’s a little something for every taste. but it really hits a high gear in DF. maninfest. Zona Rosa. starwoodhotels. Andrés Bello 29. Colonia Cuauhtémoc. 38 .com and gmusicfest.mx. with gaily-colored style on raucous Amberes Street. The White Party. Full bar nightly. holidayinn. Londres 42. daily 6 am-8:30 pm. Mariano Escobedo 716. W Mexico City. Polanco. From there you rely on non-verbal communication. Hotel JW Marriott.com. Promise you’ll visit other streets. immaculately clean. Hotel del Principado. Below are some of the city’s hottest spots when you’re feeling extra friendly. 9138 1800.com. campy grandeur and not crazy expensive. 5141 6020. and hands down. López 120. Honeymoon in Polanco? Grand and perfectly run. Moderate prices and prime Zona Rosa location just add to the plusses. BAT H H O US ES & C I RCU I T PA RT I ES With a discreet wink we’ll cop to what everyone knows: its always fun to flirt and play when you travel. com.com. All cities are sexy. a smile and an “Hola!” are usually all it takes to get the ball rolling. High-modern style. especially afternoons. 5080 0800. espanol. com.com. sodome. com.marriott. BUENAS NOCHES: THE DF’S LGBT-FRIENDLIEST HOTELS The legalization of same-sex marriage in Mexico City—along with its increasing popularity as an LGBT destination—means a lot of hotels. Zona Rosa. Inelegant. mejutoproducciones. Hotel Geneve. Even if your Spanish is muy malo. 5080 4500. 5999 0000. Ultra-kicky boutique. hoteldelprincipado. Zona Rosa. Londres 130. held every November to support local HIV/AIDS charities. are rolling out the rainbow carpet. Red Hot Party. Centro. Londres 15. 5250 6653. Sun 5-11 pm. CIRCUIT PARTIES The emphasis is on dance. Holiday Inn Mexico Zona Rosa. but clean and very active bathhouse. and very ready to host your wedding. Over the top. Baños San Juan. is a yearly highlight. vdmas. Zona Rosa. Tues-Wed 4 pm-12 am. Fri 4pm until Sun 11 pm. Immaculately clean with ultra-friendly service. Not unlike the Hilton in Houston or Altanta— but isn’t that the point? Great. just the way we like it. Sodomé. 04455 4833 9278. hotelgeneve. right? HOTEL VALENTINA Hilton Mexico City Reforma. living. In the heart of the Zona Rosa with a Sanborns in the lobby. vagabundos. no-surprises professionalism.B N PICANTE: SAU N AS.com. Cozy and well-run. mx. Wed. but naughty surprises seem always to arise.com. 5130 5300. Fri-Sat 10pm-6am. Campos Elíseos 252.com to stay abreast of the ever-morphing scene. the JW Marriott positions itself as one of the city’s number-one spots for same-sex marriage.com.mx. Centro. Avenida Juárez 70. The whole Zona Rosa scene is right outside your door. Hotel Valentina (by Room Mate Hotels). Luxurious. com. Check websites like karmabeat. DJs and strippers weekends. room-matehotels. Thurs 4 pm-4am.mx.mx. 5533 2944. plus drama and a hint of sex. Popular underwear party for everyone from twinks to daddies. LGBT heaven. Río Pánuco 120-A. 5521 3376.com. with the right location. Amberes 27. Polanco. Polanco. old and new. hilton. too. the very hottest men. Mon.

lgbt travelers will appreciate Mexico City’s notably progressive attitude when it comes to sexual diversity. Informally. and as of 2010. but in the meantime Mexico City’s example might well serve other cities worldwide that seek to enhance equality for their lgbt citizens. In recent years this street-level attitude has played out in a series of city-wide legal reforms that are a source of pride to many citizens. The government also maintains support centers for the LGBT community such as its Centro Comunitario de Atención a la Diversidad Sexual (Sexual Diversity Community Service Center) Génova 30-H. few cities worldwide could better represent the “live-and-let-live” attitude that is a (rarely remarked upon) feature of Mexican culture in general. even outside the Zona Rosa. HIV testing.comunitario. and even helps process same-sex marriage licenses. Other progressive reforms have included allowing transgender people to legally change their sex on birth certificates and other legal records. CHATTY AND CONVIVIAL NATURE OF THE MEXICANS PRACTICALLY COMPELS THEM TO ENJOY PEOPLE AS PEOPLE. nothing more or less. Most notably.com/centro. gestures of affection and hand-holding that attract virtually no attention from passers-by.KEEPING IT LEGAL: MEXICO CITY’S PROGRESSIVE STANCE ON LGBT RIGHTS IN ADDITION TO ALL THE FUN AND CULTURE. further enhanced by the open-mindedness that city life supports. safety and justice.” FIRST SAME-SEX MARRIAGES. same-sex couples can legally adopt children. chatty and convivial nature of the Mexicans practically compels them to enjoy people as people. CITY HALL (2010) ZONA ROSA 39 . which focuses on guaranteeing community access to healthcare. straight or otherwise. As you make your way through the city you’ll see open expressions of sexual diversity. NOTHING MORE OR LESS. serves as a referral to other public services and support. gay. in 2010 the DF (which acts like a state in Mexican politics) became the first jurisdiction in Latin America to legalize same-sex marriage. 5533 6008. facebook. The generally warm. human rights. “THE WARM. Discrimination based on sexual identity is illegal in any guise. Zona Rosa.lgbt/info. Naturally there is more work to do and activists push for even greater advances. There’s a feeling that we’re all in this together and a surprising lack of recourse to labels.

OTHER NOTEWORTHY NEIGHBORHOODS & EXCURSIONS YOU COULD SPEND WEEKS EXPLORING ALL THAT THE DF’S MOST VISITED NEIGHBORHOODS have to offer—and it would be a mere beginning. GETTY IMAGES great neighborhoods—well known and otherwise—and to in-the-field adventures like no others 40 . But if you’ve got the time. then take it further. to on the planet.

Eastern edge of the Zócalo. (see “Mexico City for Fridamaniacs.com. Lola Álvarez Bravo. Colonia Centro. artist Frida Kahlo herself might not understand how her work. bellasartes. 5550 1518. 5554 0687. Tue-Sun 10 am-6 pm. Calle República de Argentina 28. Museo Mural Diego Rivera. No direct Frida connection. Did Frida carry out her notorious affair with the exiled Bolshevik there? If only the walls could talk. Londres 247. Palacio Nacional. museofridakahlo. Avenida México 5843.mx. Colonia Centro. Tue 11 am-6 pm. museomuraldiegorivera. Museum housing a Rivera mural depicting a promenade with Mexican heroes. Frida’s birthplace and the house she shared with Diego.mx. Mexico’s ministry of public education houses another extensive collection of Rivera murals. even eclipsing her husband Diego Rivera’s career and reputation. Can you guess who gets a prominent spot in the tableau? OTHER NEIGHBORHOODS 41 . an oasis of small town and genteel tradition. Colonia San Ángel Inn. 5512 0754.” right.org. Thurs-Sun 10 am-6 pm. mx. Río Churubusco 410. Tue-Sun 10am-6 pm. Secretaría de Educación Pública. mx. Some say bohemianism has latterly morphed into a smoky hippie hangover. The neighborhood’s reputation as an intellectual center was solidified when Mexico’s National University moved to its present campus. Tue-Sun 10 am-5 pm. COYOACÁN STROLLS Calle Allende stretches north from Plaza Hidalgo to Londres Street and the Casa Frida Kahlo. Coyoacán was once a suburb of the city.gob. lovely Plaza Santa Catarina (where there are two or three cute places for a drink or coffee). museodoloresolmedo. villains and celebrities. GETTY IMAGES Museo Frida Kahlo (Casa Azul). The permanent collection holds several Riveras and Kahlos.COYOACÁN GENTEEL BOHEMIA ABOUT TEN KILOMETERS FROM THE CENTRO. sep. south of the area. Tue-Sun 10 am-6 pm. Colonia La Noria. David Alfaro Siqueiros. Along the way you’ll see some Mexico City for Fridamaniacs (and fans of that guy she was married to) Nearly sixty years after her death. estudiodiegorivera. An impressive compound comprised of two connected residences—one for Diego and one for Frida. Its reputation as a the city’s Bohemia surged in from the 1920s to the 40s. etc. 5554 5999. Calle Francisco Sosa. Colonia Del Carmen Coyoacán. pocket parks and a marvelous open market (where great eating—especially seafood—is had on the cheap). intellectuals and creators such as Leon Trotsky. clustered around its own plaza and business district. 5555 1221. largely around international artist/ celebrities Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo and their claque of exiles.mx. Get your Frida (and Diego) on at the following city-wide pilgrimage sites. palacionacional. but the fact remains that Coyoacán is still one of the city’s most beautiful and walkable districts. Colonia Coyoacán. Fans will not be happy to know that “Lola” considered Frida less than brilliant as an artist. Walk this cobblestone street from the Jardín Centenario to quiet. Colonia Centro.gob. Museo Estudio Diego Rivera. Tina Modotti. life and image continue to fascinate. Diego Rivera 2 at Altavista. En route you pass cafés. in one of the secondfloor murals. bellasartes. Juan O’Gorman. Museo León Trotsky. the former largely being portraits of the formidable Señora Olmedo herself.org.mx. Museo Dolores Olmedo Patiño. including one in which a revolutionary Frida hands out rifles to the people. but some have spotted a resemblance to her in Diego’s depiction of Cortés’s notorious mistress.gob. Colón at Balderas. for the full immersion). la Malinche.

. these days. Mon-Tue 1 pm-1 am. but cute spot for traditional Mexican food. The traditional neighborhood fave. 5622 6972. COCKTAIL HOUR: La Bipolar. jewelry and clothing by talented local artisans. don’t miss the Museo Universitario de Arte Contemporáneo (Insurgentes Sur 3000. Consider visiting on Saturday. LA BIPOLAR 42 . Cuauhtémoc 134 at Allende. with on-site roasting (whose aroma you can’t resist). pottery. and promenading locals. with gamboling cobblestone streets. Malitzín 155. when San Jacinto hosts the Bazar Sábado market.mx. ART AND LANDSCAPE. its utopian architectural vision—a masterful combination of space. Wed-Sun 10 am-6 pm). another colonial-style charmer.com. featuring murals by Siqueiros. And since you’ve made it this far south. Daily 7:30 am-10 pm. OTHER NOTEWORTHY SITES NEAR COYOACÁN Ciudad Universitaria When Mexico’s Autonomous National University—founded in 1910 and Latin America’s largest—left the Centro in the early 1950s. is superb. plus craft vendors redolent of herbs.THE SYMBOL A A OF MEXICO’S POST-WAR PROSPERITY AND AMBITIONS. ice cream parlors. a taxi ride) away. 5484 8230. higher-end retail and restaurants. LUNCH: El Morral. gazebos. muac.unam. The university’s tall Rectoría. Hidalgo and Francisco Sosa meet—is the charming heart of the district..“. seek a rooftop table on sunny afternoons. featuring leather. traditional architecture and.. along with higher-ticket items like paintings and sculpture. the Ciudad Universitaria (CU) campus was created as a symbol of Mexico’s post-war prosperity and intellectual ambitions. legal and otherwise. Sun 1 pm-10 pm. cafeeljarocho. Allende 2. you’ll find the south campus’s Espacio Escultórico sculpture garden. and the Central Library’s Juan O’Gorman mosaics are a true masterpiece. A few kilometers (i. with fountains. Fri-Sat 6 am-2 am. Ciudad Universitaria: approximately the 2600 block of Avenida Insurgentes Sur. of the city’s toniest—and costliest— residential real estate. Coyoacán’s two manicured central plazas—where streets like Allende. Heavenly hand-thrown tortillas. Jardín Centenario/Plaza Hidalgo. before reaching the Periférico Ring Road. San Ángel & Plaza San Jacinto Not far from Coyoacán lies the neighborhood known as San Ángel. a stunning.A MASTERFUL COMBINATION OF SPACE. color.” CIUDAD UNIVERSITARIA AN AFTERNOON IN COYOACÁN… COFFEE BREAK: Café El Jarocho. 5658 5029. whose trippy lava-scape and high modernist pieces are like something from outer space. An unassuming.. Its parish church dates from 1564 and is well worth a looksee (especially the enclosed garden). 5554 0298. COLOR. Stylish neo-cantina that fills with hipsters as the day journeys into night.. SunThurs 6 am-1 am. ambitious new art museum. Thurs-Sat 1 pm-2:30 am. quite worth your attentive contemplation. 60 years hence.e. art and landscape—cannot fail to impress.

Kumbia Queers Los Chuchos.com. or help finding LGBT-friendly hotels. 5511 5475. Passion Fruit Lesbian Travel 04455 5183 7837.com. Here are three of the best: Aaquetzalli Gay Travel. resorts and guesthouses throughout Mexico. Monterrey 80.com. Fri-Sun 3 pm-3 am.ar 43 OTHER NEIGHBORHOODS CENTRO . Nuevo León 160 (upstairs). 5255 5929.com.mx. passionfruitlesbiantravel. T TOP 5 5 Mexico City’s Coolest Reveal Their Favorite DF Pleasures ALI GUA GUA. on-bar dancing. Col. Ladies get a discount on Mondays and Thursdays and the lesbians come out in droves! Watch for neighborhood celebrities. Marrakech. El Bósforo. aaquetzalli. Centro. Never in the LGBT guides because it cannot be defined. Roma. Hetero-friendly speakeasy? Whatever it is. A deep dive off Plaza Garibaldi with an excellent jukebox. Wed-Thurs 3-10 pm. Colonia Condesa. I love the sweat. Centro.” those skinny. goths and darks. the smell. Musuko. Wear nothing white. Follow Ali Gua Gua and the Kumbia Queers at kumbiaqueers. The downtown haunt of my favorite chacales— “jackals. Trannie versions of stars like Paquita la del Barrio and Ana Gabriel are in the house.org. theunder. Luis Moya 31.IN YOUR CORNER: LGBTFOCUSED TRAVEL AGENCIES PLANNING YOUR MEXICO TRIP with an LGBT-focused travel agency can provide great benefits like access to special themed tours and events. and the Coyote Ugly-style. dancing to music by depressive English bands. República de Cuba 18. República de Honduras 6. sexy bad-boys that cluster by the bar. Lead Singer. Babylon Tours Travel Boutique 5705 1900. El Under. Vampire seduction in what is practically a backroom for punks. Centro. the music is sensual and I never get out without kissing someone. 5553 14 43.mx. babylontours. recommendations tailored to your particular interests.

SANTA MARÍA LA RIBERA 44 .SAN RAFAEL & SANTA MARÍA LA RIBERA THE EMERGING ARTISTS KIOSKO MORISCO.

MUSEO UNIVERSITARIO EL CHOPO OTHER NEIGHBORHOODS 45 . Sabino 215. crazy-friendly atmosphere. Sat-Sun 7 am-6 pm. with great art-deco appointments. chopo. originally owned by the Braniff family (of later airline fame). Enrique González Martínez 10. Sabino 166. 5541 0405. Mon-Sat 11-12 am. At Santa María la Ribera and Díaz Mirón Streets. Sullivan 43. San Rafael. San Rafael. Don’t show up too late: when the BBQ is gone. Mon-Sat 8 am-8 pm. Its centerpiece is the Kiosko Morisco— “the Moorish Gazebo”—a filigreed relic from a late-nineteenth century world’s fair. Mon-Sat 9 am-11 pm. COCKTAIL HOUR: Salón París. nearly as spectacular in complete ruin as it was in its shiny heyday. Museo Experimental El Eco. Neighborhood classic for pozole. Following the familiar pattern. Succulent barbecued mutton—some say the best in the city—amid a down-home. bohos and queers see the great old architecture. the hearty pork and hominy stew. From the old school.mx. Antonio Caso 72 at Sadi Carnot. 5547 3710. through Roma/Condesa. 5546 5484.mx. Braniff Mansion. The neighborhood’s quaint plaza has undergone a facelift and is more inviting than ever. the walkability and the cheapo rents. Torres Bodet 152. Its extravagant horizontality and marvelous stone façade offer an idea of San Rafael’s quondam grandeur. Designed by German émigré Matias Goeritz in 1953. Serapio Rendón 9. com. Santa María la Rivera. then start moving in.unam. too. Dr. LUNCH: La Casa de Toño. The food is quite delicious. Stark. Sadi Carnot 57. As the city grew. Tues-Sun 10 am-7 pm. Old-time cantinas and a gloriously dusty museum of natural history border the Alameda. A A AN AFTERNOON IN SAN RAFAEL/SANTA MARÍA LA RIBERA COFFEE BREAK: Café Gran Premio. Oh the humanity! What fun it must have been to see classic Hollywood—or Churubusco—pictures in this movie palace. Santa María la Rivera. Casual. genteel families moved west. San Rafael. El Chopo’s goth-industrial structure was brought from Germany and reassembled in Mexico from 1903 to 1905. was—and is—one of the city’s most imposing mansions. A trapped-in-time café that not even the hipsters have discovered—so get there fast. Another salvage job from a world’s fair. WEEKEND LUNCH: La Oveja Negra. to Polanco and points beyond (a trend that continues to this day). 5386 1125. 5535 0934. This impressive neo-classical pile.THESE CLOSE-IN. Museo Universitario El Chopo. with a long way to go. But that doesn’t mean you can’t scout for hidden gems and get in on the fun before the hordes arrive. NOTEWORTHY SAN RAFAEL/ SANTA MARÍA LA RIBERA SITES The Alameda. San Rafael. she’s gone. The “gentrification” is in its embryonic phase. restaurantesovejanegra. Cine Ópera. eleco. Tues-Sun 11 am-6 pm. Santa María la Ribera. unam. Sun 11 am-7 pm. expect crowds. Today it is home to ultra edgy arts exhibitions and is an anchor for neighborhood revitalization. 5535 5186. Santa María la Ribera. San Rafael and Santa María declined. and are just now beginning to show new signs of life. almost unnerving lines create an exhibition space that often outshines the art. ADJACENT NEIGHBORHOODS DATE FROM THE END OF THE NINETEENTH to early twentieth centuries. sharing space with an ever-increasing array of hipster-hopefuls.mx. El Eco is a provocative modernist architectural jewel. Sun 9 am-10 pm. in a great old townhouse setting. dating from the 1890s. artists.

mx for details. 46 . See turibus.com. monuments and other intriguing sights take on a whole new air from twenty feet up—and even cynics can’t resist. and the fabulous fifties modernism of the National University. But that’s no reason to skip a tour aboard the Turibus. Go to the upper deck—palaces. we get you’re not a waddling. the “Ruta Sur” excursion hits Frida Kahlo’s Coyoacán. colonial San Ángel. fannypacked tourist. The downtown route explores sites and neighborhoods between the Centro and Chapultepec Park.TURIBUS: JUST DO IT Yes.

Plus the boys look awfully cute as they romp about in those shorts.com. Puerta 4.com. any taxi driver will be able to take you there. Detox. Matches 8:30 pm Fridays.mx. Yep. Colonia Centro. Located in the extreme south of the city. too. guilty pleasure if ever there were one. the Rancho del Charro puts on intermittent shows throughout the year. condesasportsworld. com. music and spectacle. consider a day pass at the following gyms/yoga studios. Sports World Condesa Sonora 180. Mon-Thurs 6 am-11 pm.com. Colonia Condesa. downtown’s Coliseo auditorium attracts a scrappier.com. The DF’s outdoor/ sporting activities appeal to different people for different reasons—and are yet another way to celebrate Mexico City’s infinite variety. GYM FOR GYM BUNNIES AND MUSCLE MARYS Late nights. among the city’s nicest and most up-to date. modern. but thoroughly fun. Bosques de las Lomas. CHARRERÍA EQUESTRIAN EVENTS Mexican rodeo with fantastic pageantry and derring-do.IN THE FIELD EXCURSIONS SPORTS & ADVENTURES LET’S NOT FALL INTO GENDER STEREOTYPES. 5526 1687. And the trainers— male and female—are pretty dishy.mx. an entirely harmless though creepy “island of misfit toys. Estadio Olímpico: Insurgentes Sur across from the main UNAM campus. gets regulars and an increasing crop of local slummers. Mexico’s masked and melodramatic wrestling matches are a low. start up again in January and continue through May at three local stadiums. friendly and immaculately maintained. 5487 3100. Colonia Santa Úrsuka Coapa. Matches Tues 8:30 pm and Sun 5 pm. a sort of butch camp exercise if you will. 5277 8706. Bikram Yoga México Seneca 35. featuring talented equestrians and equestriennes. Arena México: Dr. La Vista at Dr. Arena Coliseo: República de Perú 77 near República de Chile. 5563 3961. Bosque de Chapultepec Third Section. Mon Fri 6 am-11 pm. at 4:30 pm.) OTHER NEIGHBORHOODS 47 . Sat 8 am-4pm. too many enchiladas. mex. com. In the third section of Chapultepec Park. 5564 5888.com for the current schedule and other details. Lucio.com. hardcandyfitness. but perfectly harmless crowd. And the outfits! The Arena México. The premiere workout in Hipster Heights. Augusto Rodín 241. Estadio Azteca: Calzada de Tlalpan 3465. lamexico. so don’t expect to remain seated—and watch for flying beers if the home team doesn’t win. (Note only the Condesa location offers day passes. shirt-free. Sun 9 am-2 pm. Xochimilco is a wonderfully garish pleasure garden that must not be missed.The gym to the telenovela stars. food. 5245 7550. Qi Ámsterdam 317. You’ll be glad you went even if you never go again. just west of Insurgentes Sur. Sat. And yet you’ve got to look good. a relaxing idyll. Colonia Condesa. Did we mention the handsome. so you’re ready to retox: the city’s bestregarded yoga studios. SOCCER. near the Roma. arenacoliseo. Tickets available through Ticketmaster. 5520 0246. drink and live music can be floated right to your boat. on the dance floor. A real Mexican passion. arrayed in those haughty yet sexy black “mariachi” suits. Madonna’s place…probably the toniest sweatshop in town. steely matadors? Alternating Saturdays and Sundays. 5378 4897. Sun and holidays 7 am to 5 pm. call or see website for class schedule. 4-hour-plus excursions take you to the area’s “rural” canals (request the “parte rural”). Hard Candy Bosque de Duraznos 47. Several shoving-off points (called embarcaderos) offer by-the-hour gondola rentals. Visit nacionaldecharros. LUCHA LIBRE. 5588 0508. BULLFIGHTING. thrill seekers should ask to visit Isla de las Muñecas (doll island). danger. Colonia Doctores. centroqi. While there.mx. Not for your vegan friends (the blood and death are real) yet there’s nothing to compare with its drama.” The Floating Gardens of Xochimilco. So if your hotel has no workout room. Matches played from August to December. from November to February at the Plaza de Toros México. arenamexico. Polanco. Estadio Azul: Indiana 225. too much tequila. Rancho del Charro: Constituyentes 500. Colonia Ciudad de los Deportes. XOCHIMILCO. asociacionnacionaldecharros. Colonia Ciudad de los Deportes.

.editorialmapas. C. Aníbal Barco. Observatorio. Travesías Editores. S. México D. S. Atonatiuh Bracho.F. en los talleres de COMISA. de C. La edición constó de 2. Condesa. General Victoriano Zepeda 22. Special thanks to Annuska Angulo.com Original Texts. de C. 06140.. Amatlán 33... col. Adaptations and Edition Michael Parker-Stainback Photo Editor María Dolores Rivera Design Juan Carlos Guzmán / Rigo de la Rocha Retouching Armando Ortega Production Oswaldo Rodríguez Photos By SecturDF. V. Hugo Flores. Adrián Duchateau.CEO Antonio García Chairman Javier Arredondo Editorial Director Guillermo Osorno Public Relations Director Luz Arredondo Director of Finance Juan Martín Osorio Art Director Rigoberto de la Rocha Copy Director Claudia Priani Saisó www. A. Camilo Christen. C.. Felipe Luna. México D. Gris Maldonado and Miriam Jiménez. Getty Images. Héctor Jiménez.500 ejemplares.P. Edición a cargo de EDITORIAL MAPAS. Esta guía se terminó de imprimir en la ciudad de México en el mes de noviembre de 2012. Arturo Limón. 5516 8586. Diego Berruecos. Proceso Foto and Rigo de la Rocha.V.F. col. 11860.A.P.

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