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For anyone who appreciates good food,
this has to be their new kitchen companion.
The best way to wrap brie
What the freckles on an apricot tell you
Which sustainable fsh to buy instead of cod
A good technique for cutting up pumpkin
The favour of ostrich meat
An authentic recipe for guacamole
What to do with a whelk
Use this defnitive visual reference to help you choose top-quality, in-season produce,
seek out unusual ingredients, learn the best preparation and cooking techniques,
and try out exciting new favour pairings.
Buy • Store • PrePare • Cook • PreServe • eat
2,500 world ingredients with classic recipes
THE COOK’s BOOK Of
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THE COOK’S BOOK OF
THE COOK’S BOOK OF
LONDON, NEW YORK, MELBOURNE,
MUNICH, AND DELHI
Photographers Gary Ombler, Roger Dixon,
Jon Whitaker, Lorenzo Vecchia, Gary Seagraves,
Petrina Tinslay, Nicki Downey, Will Heap,
Chris Villano, Deepak Aggarwal
Project Editor Norma MacMillan
Editors Helena Caldon, Fiona Corbridge,
Mary Scott, Belinda Wilkinson
Designer Miranda Harvey
Picture Researcher Jenny Faithful
FOR DORLING KINDERSLEY
Laura Nickoll, Scarlett O’Hara
Kathryn Wilding, Elly King, Caroline de Souza
Elma Aquino, Danaya Bunnag
Sarah Ruddick, Alastair Laing, Andrew Rof
Senior Jackets Creative
Dawn Henderson, Angela Wilkes
Managing Art Editors
Marianne Markham, Christine Keilty
Senior Production Controller
Creative Technical Support
First published in Great Britain in 2010
by Dorling Kindersley Limited
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL
Penguin Group (UK)
Copyright © 2010 Dorling Kindersley Limited
2 4 6 8 10 9 7 5 3 1
All rights reserved. No part of this publication
may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise
without the prior written permission of the
A CIP catalogue record for this book
is available from the British Library
ISBN 978 1 4053 5318 2
Colour reproduction by Colourscan, Singapore
Printed and bound by Toppan, China
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FISH & SEAFOOD 12
NUTS & SEEDS 314
DAIRY & EGGS 362
GRAINS, RICE, PASTA & NOODLES 478
OILS, VINEGARS & FLAVOURINGS 508
In the past twenty years, food lovers and cooks the world over have witnessed the
phenomenal growth of a vast global market. It is as if a seemingly constant and burgeoning
stream of produce is there for the asking – exotic fruit and heirloom vegetables, rare-breed
meat and poultry, remarkable fsh and seafood, artisan cheeses and cured meats, rare spices
and herbs, authentic sauces and favourings. The list goes on and more keeps coming –
sometimes making us feel like excited children in a sweetshop.
Since good cooking is about good ingredients, we need the knowledge necessary for
making informed choices. We need to be able to recognize quality – ingredients that are
the best of their kind, produced with care and pride. We need to know when food is in
prime condition, how to store it, ripen it, prepare it, cook it, or preserve it in the most
appropriate way. Regardless of where we live, if we are to make the most of this rich
global market, we need to be aware that everyday ingredients in one part of the world
may seem unusual or exotic in another. If we don’t recognize ingredients or know what to
do with them, we are likely to pass over items that could enrich our culinary repertoire.
The Cook’s Book of Ingredients provides the in-depth information you need to do all this
and more. It will fascinate and inform beginners and experienced cooks, professional
chefs, passionate foodies, and even the mildly curious whose interest has been kindled by
the sheer wealth of produce available.
Every page of this book reveals an ingredient that simply must be tried, or a new piece of
information about a familiar ingredient. Space is devoted to lesser-known regional items, with
foods such as beremeal and biltong given the same attention as chicken and cheese. For every
ingredient, there is a short introduction describing provenance and seasonality, together with
insider information on how to assess quality and freshness, and clear explanations of how best
to prepare and cook the ingredient. Following this are recommendations for favour pairings
with compatible ingredients that will open the mind of even the most accomplished cook.
The book includes over 200 classic recipes, distinctly regional but well known the world
over, chosen to showcase a particular ingredient and to help you explore its favours further.
These are classic recipes from around the world in which the ingredient is star.
This colossal culinary encyclopaedia has been produced by a team of expert food writers,
chefs, and connoisseurs, backed by worldwide regional consultants. Photographers have travelled
the globe to far-fung food markets, from Barcelona’s Boqueria to San Francisco’s Ferry Plaza to
Tokyo’s Tsukiji in search of the very best ingredients to illustrate the book. Their work is shown
in 2,500-plus photographs of a complete spectrum of foods: fsh and shellfsh, meat, poultry,
and game, vegetables, herbs, spices, dairy and eggs, fruits, nuts and seeds, grains, rice, pasta, and
noodles, oils, vinegars, and favourings.
Had this book been produced twenty years ago, it would have been a slim volume with
fewer photographs. Missing would be some of the exotica that long-haul travel has
made commonplace, along with the melting pot of foods emerging from our increasingly
multicultural society. Fewer pages would be devoted to the wealth of fresh produce that
modern harvesting and refrigerated transport systems have made possible. The book
would also be lacking some of the in-depth knowledge and culinary expertise that the
internet makes so speedily accessible.
In the 80s and 90s, supermarkets ruled the roost; decades later they remain the essential
one-stop shop for many of us in the West. That said, our growing passion for food has been
matched by a signifcant rise in delicatessens, butchers, fshmongers, greengrocers, farm
shops and farmers’ markets. Their shelves are packed with produce, much of it in season
and locally grown, opening up yet more choices. Mail-order food companies are increasing,
too. We can order every imaginable ingredient, from exotic spices and heirloom beans
to foie gras and oven-ready squirrel, by e-mail or phone – though this rather misses the
sensory pleasure of looking, touching, and smelling to evaluate what is on ofer.
The time has never been better for the curious cook. Every day the larder grows, with foods
that were previously geographically or culturally isolated now being shared at tables around
the world. With this unprecedented abundance, we can return from our travels, inspired by
the food we have eaten, and create the same dishes at home – from an aromatic Thai curry or
spicy Mexican mole to Spanish paella or Hungarian goulash. Whether we live in Dallas or Dijon,
Adelaide or Alaska, we can also take the opportunity to look at our own traditional recipes
with fresh eyes, and perhaps give them a modern twist with a new ingredient.
Alongside this expansive global mindset is a deepening concern for the environment,
responsible animal husbandry, and a fair return for food producers. Worldwide
food scares of the last two decades have made many people think deeply about the
provenance of their food, particularly meat and poultry. Responsible cooks are becoming
increasingly aware of depleted fsh stocks and the importance of sustainable fshing. In the
Western world, those who are able are increasingly opting for locally produced food, in
a well-intentioned attempt to support farmers and artisan producers, and reduce food
miles. Growing-your-own and making-your-own are becoming key parts of the food
culture. School gardens and land set aside for community food production are on the rise
in urban areas from Cuba to Australia and in many parts of the US and Europe. The last
fve years have seen a renaissance in bread making, cheese making, pickling, and preserving
in countries where these traditional skills are not necessarily a feature of everyday life.
As this complex and exciting food culture unfolds, the home cook’s need for practical
information has never been greater. The Cook’s Book of Ingredients more than meets
this need. It takes you on a fascinating journey, opens your eyes to the vast global larder,
and provides you with all you need to know to choose the best ingredients. The book is
a superior resource that delivers on every level, enabling you to shop with authority and
cook with confdence.
AUTHORS AND EXPERTS
KIMIKO BARBER Consultant on Japanese ingredients. Kimiko was born in Kobe, Japan, and is the author of DK’s Sushi
and many other publications on Japanese cuisine. She regularly writes for the Weekend Financial Times on food and travel.
She has contributed to BBC Radio 4’s Food Programme, and has taught in various cookery schools.
JEFF COX Author of the Vegetable chapter. Jef has been writing about vegetable gardening for 40 years. He is a former
editor of Organic Gardening magazine and has written 18 books on food, wine, and gardening.
NICHOLA FLETCHER Author of the Meat chapter. Regarded as one of the world’s leading authorities on meat,
Nichola has written seven books on the subject. She gives workshops to cooks and chefs, and also leads tutored meat
tastings. Nichola is an award-winning food historian; she lives in Scotland.
OLIVIA GRECO Consultant on Italian ingredients. Olivia worked as a head chef in Tuscany, also researching all aspects
of Italian and other cuisines, and later taught at the Italian Cooking School in Tuscany. After years of travel, she is based in
London where she teaches and cooks for cooking schools and private clients.
TRINA HAHNEMANN Consultant on Scandinavian ingredients. A chef, writer, and food consultant, Trina has been
described by The Daily Telegraph as “Denmark’s answer to Nigella Lawson”.
JULIET HARBUTT Author of the Cheese chapter. Juliet regularly judges cheese competitions around the world as well
as promoting artisan cheese through writing, training, and consultancy. She created the British Cheese Awards in 1994 and the
Great British Cheese Festival in 2000, and wrote The World Cheese Book, published by DK in 2009.
ANISSA HELOU Consultant on Middle Eastern and North African ingredients. Anissa is a food writer, journalist and
broadcaster, whose books include Lebanese Cuisine and Mediterranean Street Food. She has her own cooking school in London.
CLARISSA HYMAN Author of the Fruit chapter. Clarissa is an award-winning food and travel writer, twice recipient of
the prestigious Glenfddich Food Writer of the Year Award. She contributes to a wide range of newspapers and magazines
and has written three books on food, travel, culture, and cooking: The Spanish Kitchen, The Jewish Kitchen, and Cucina Siciliana.
C.J. JACKSON Author of the Fish chapter. C.J. is Director of the Billingsgate Seafood Training School, a charity situated above
the famous London fsh market. She runs the school and both teaches and demonstrates on some courses. She writes for the BBC’s
Good Food magazine and is author of The Billingsgate Market Cookbook and co-author of Leith’s Fish Bible.
CORNELIA KLAEGER Consultant on German ingredients. A home economist, ingredients expert, and food writer, Cornelia
also translates from English, adapts, and produces cookery books for international publishers. Cornelia lives in Munich, Germany.
SOFIA LARRINUA-CRAXTON Consultant on South American ingredients. Sofa is Mexican by birth and lives in
London, working as a cookery teacher, consultant, writer, and broadcaster specializing in Mexican cuisine and world street
food. She is the author of The Mexican Mama’s Kitchen and The Tomato Book (DK).
JENNY LINFORD Author of the Dairy & Eggs and Nuts & Seeds chapters. Jenny is a food writer and member of The
Guild of Food Writers, as well as the author of 15 books including Food Lovers’ London and DK’s Great British Cheeses. She
founded Gastro-Soho Tours in 1994, ofering personal guided tours of London’s food shops.
CHRISTINE MCFADDEN Consultant on the Vegetables and Fruits chapters. A food writer with an extensive
knowledge of global cuisines and ingredients, Christine has written 16 books, including Pepper, The Farm Shop Cookbook,
and Cool Green Leaves and Red Hot Peppers, all three shortlisted for international food media awards.
MARIE-PIERRE MOINE Consultant on French ingredients. Marie-Pierre was brought up in Paris, and lives and works in
London. She is the author of DK’s Provence Cookery School and The Cook’s Herb Garden, and of many books on French cooking
and food. She writes a monthly food column for House & Garden magazine.
JENNI MUIR Author of the Grains, Rice, Pasta, & Noodles chapter. Jenni learned to make soba noodles with a soba
noodle master in Tokyo. She is the editor of Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide, and works with chefs and other food experts to
produce cookbooks and cookery websites, as well as contributing on a freelance basis to newspapers and magazines.
LYNNE MULLINS Consultant on Southeast Asian and Australian ingredients. Lynne is an award-winning food writer who
has travelled extensively to master her culinary skills. She is the author of seven cookbooks, writes a weekly food column in
The Sydney Morning Herald and the Newcastle Herald, and also appears regularly on Australian radio and television.
JILL NORMAN Author of the Herbs & Spices chapters. An award-winning author and food and wine publisher, Jill is one of
the most infuential food writers of recent times. She is the author of DK’s Herb & Spice, The Classic Herb Cookbook, The Complete
Book of Spices, and The New Penguin Cookery Book; her work is published in many languages throughout the world.
HELEN YUET LING PANG Consultant on Chinese ingredients. Helen is the author of food and travel blog World
Foodie Guide, shortlisted for the Guild of Food Writers 2009 New Media Award. She is enthusiastic about all cuisines,
particularly Chinese, and enjoys travelling to eat and photograph food.
JUDY RIDGWAY Author of the Oils, Vinegars, & Flavourings chapter. Judy is an olive oil expert, consultant, author, and
broadcaster specializing in all aspects of taste and favour. She has written four books on olive oil, including Best Olive Oil Buys
Round the World, and more than 60 books on food and wine.
MARIA JOSE SEVILLA Consultant on Spanish ingredients. Maria is a food writer, broadcaster, and the Chief Executive
of Foods and Wines from Spain at the Spanish Embassy in London.
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