AMERICAN EFIRD, INC.

8/25/2006

SEAMS DRAWINGS - INDEX
By Operations
Attach & Edgestitch (usually 301 stitch) Bag Seaming - 401 Bagging Welt Pockets on Trousers (usually 301) Binding (2 needle - clean finish - 301 or 401) Binding (2 needle - selvedge edge - 301 or 401) Binding (bottom coverstitch - 406 stitch) Binding (clean finish - usually 301) Binding (coverstitch - 602 or 605 ) Binding (Mock clean finish binding - 2 operations) Binding (Mock clean finish binding - 2 operations) Binding (selvedge edge binding - 301 or 401) Bolt-end seaming (501 - single thread overedge) Butt seam & tape - generally 301 lockstitch Centerplait (Cut-on centerplait - 401/ 301 stitch) Centerplait (Set-on - generally 401 stitch) Cord seam only - generally 301 or 401 stitch Coverseaming only (straddle stitch - 406 stitch) Crotch seam (Flatseaming with 607 stitch) Crotch seam (Flatlock seaming with 606 stitch) Crotch seam on Jeans - usually 301 stitch Darting (panel not cut - generally 301 stitch) Deco Stitching Elastic attaching - 3 or 4 needle 401 stitch Elastic attaching - 406 or 407 stitch - underwear Facing to front with Zipper Felling (Mock Felled Seam) Felling or felled seam (2 or 3 needle 401 stitch) Flatlock seaming (with 606 stitch) Flatseaming (with 607 stitch) French Seam General Seaming Hem Seaming (clean finish) Hem Seaming (raw edges) Hem Serging Hem with Elastic Hem with Elastic (2 needle) Hem with Elastic (2 needle) Hem with Piping Hemming - 2 Ndl. hemming on knits Hemming - blindhemming w overedge Hemming - blindstitch hemming (clean finish) Hemming - blindstitch hemming (serged or pinked) Hemming - Tunneled Elastic (2 needle) Hemming (clean finish) Hemming (selvedge edge) Join & Tape Front (flatseamer)

Seam
SSae SSd SSc BSe BSd BSb BSc BSa BSg BSj BSa FSf SSf EFv LSm LSq (b) SSh (b) FSa LSa LSas OSf OSa SSt LSa SSj SSw LSc FSa FSa SSae SSa SSp SSn EFe EFf EFg EFq LSn EFa Inv. EFc EFm EFl EFr EFb EFa LSz

Pg. #
5 6 6 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 5 6 2 4 4 6 5 4 4 5 5 6 4 5 6 4 5 5 5 5 6 5 3 3 3 3 4 2 2 2 2 3 2 2 4

By Operations
Joining Bib to Overall Joining Bib to Overall Joining plies Lap Seaming Lap Seaming - top edge turned under Lining Cuffs for Dress Shirts Making Belt Loops (for jeans, chinos) Making Spaghetti Making Strap or Belt (1 needle) Making Strap or Belt (1 needle) Making Strap or Belt (1 needle) Making Strap or Belt (1 needle) Making Strap or Belt (2 needle - 2 piece) Making Strap or Belt (2 needle - 2 piece) Making Straps, Belts (hidden stitch w interlining) Patch Pocket Setting - 301 stitch Pocket Set (hem & set front pocket - jeans) Pocket Set (patch pkt. - 2 operations) Runstitch & Topstitch - generally 301 stitch Seam & Cord Seam Seam & Topstitch Seam Seam with Piping Seam with Piping & Topstitch Seam with Piping & Topstitch Seaming & Coverseaming Seaming (1st part of 2 part operation) Seaming (General) Seaming then Taping Seam Seaming with Stay Tape Serging - generally with 503, 504 or 505 stitch Sleeve Set (2 operations) Stripes attaching - 2 needle - either 301 or 401 Taping Edge - generally 301 Taping only - 2nd part of 2 part operation Topstitch only - 2nd part of 2 part operation Waistbanding (1 piece - binding - jeans) Waistbanding (1 piece) Waistbanding (2 piece band) Waistbanding (2 piece w interlining) Waistbanding (with Elastic - 3 or 4 needle) Waistbanding (with Elastic - 406 / 407 stitch) Waistbanding (with "stitch-in-a-ditch" topstitching) Yoking (1 operation - w folder) Yoking (1 operation - wo folder) Yoking (2 operations) Mock Felled Seam
Page 1 of 6

Seam
LSar LSl SSv LSa LSb SSbc EFh EFu EFj EFp EFy EFz EFad EFn SSaz LSd SSl LSs SSe LSq LSq SSk SSaw SSav SSh SSa SSa SSag SSab EFd LSr SSat SSaa SSag (b) SSe (b) BSc LSk LSg LSj SSt LSa BSf mod LSe LSf SSq SSw

Pg. #
5 5 6 4 4 6 2 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 6 4 6 4 5 4 4 5 5 5 6 5 5 6 5 3 4 6 5 6 5 2 4 4 4 6 4 2 4 4 6 6

American & Efird, Inc. 2006. All International Rights Reserved.

Usually specify the Binding finished sewn with a 602 or 605 width. 2006. (Ex.01 For setting waistbands to jeans. EFl Blindstitch Hem 1) Specify Width Hem 6. etc.5/8" Binding. EFh Belt Loops Making Belt Loops for 1) Specify needle Spacing & 2) Width Jeans and Casual of Belt Loop. Etc.02. Cut-on Centerplait. piping 1) Specify the width of the edges of outerwear. Bedspreads. 1) Specify width of hem. 2) specify the Usually sewn with a 406 Binding finished width. fly on knit briefs. etc. etc.01. Slacks.01 Setting collarettes & 1) Specify the needle spacing if Sleeve Binding on 602 or 605 stitch is used.02 BSe 3.) 3) Requires a binding folder. BSc 3. 406 stitch. 3) Requires centerplait folder. etc. Generally sewn with a 406 stitch. Page 2 of 6 . Hemming Dresses.01 Hemming Selvedge Edge Shirt Front 1) Specify width of hem. spacing and 3/8" width belt loops) 3) Usually sewn with Requires belt loop folder. 1/4" needle Pants.05. Bedspreads. binding legs and 406 stitch is used (Ex: 1/8". Hem 6. Coats.05. etc. Generally sewn with 2 rows of 401 stitch. 2) Generally a hemming etc. 2 Ndl. Seaming with selvedge and 2) Width binding. INC. 3) Requires a binding folder.14.03. Example: 1/2" Binding. Coats. American & Efird. 1" needle spacing & 1 1/2" centerplait. Undershirts. BSa 3. 1" Tee Shirts. Jeans. BSj Sewn in two operations 3.05 1) Specify the needle spacing.01 1) Specify the Binding finished width.) 3) Requires a binding folder. 3/16"). with selvedge edge binding Requirements Seam Drawing 751a Number ISO 4916 Number Common Application Requirements BSa 3. (Example: 3/8" needle on Outerwear spacing and 1/4" Binding. Usually sewn with a guide is required. Generally sewn with 103 blindstitch.03. Inc. Can be sewn with a 401 chainstitch or 301 lockstitch 1) Specify needle spacing. (See also LSm . Example: edge binding on 3/8" needle spacing and 1/4" Outerwear Binding. Slacks.01 Setting collarettes on T 1) Specify the needle spacing if Shirts.seton centerplait) EFb Clean Finish Hem 6. Example: 1/2" Can be sewn with a 301 Binding. Shorts. (Example: 1.01 BSc Waistbanding on Jeans 3. (Ex. etc. 1" hem with 1/4" needle spacing). (Ex.01 Hemming bottoms of 1) Specify width Hem.01. EFm Blindstitch Hem 1) Specify Width Hem EFc Blindhemming 6. 2) Undershirts.AMERICAN EFIRD. Generally sewn with 103 blindstitch EFa EFa Inv.01.05. All International Rights Reserved.06. 8/25/2006 Seam Drawing 751a Number ISO 4916 Number Common Application Binding Carpets. BSd 3. 2) Generally a hemming folder is required or a hemming PF.05. Topstitch hidden in seam line BSf mod "Stitch in a Ditch" Topstitching 1) May require special PF with Guide Waistband with stitch so stitch is totally hidden line on top of previous seam line.3/8" and 1. (Ex. 2) Requires a binding lockstitch or 401 folder. bottom coverstitch For setting sleeve facings to shirts. binding. Polo Shirts. and 2) Seaming and binding Width binding. 1) Specify width of hem. hem). EFv Centerplaiting 1) Specity needle spacing. Hemming Dresses. and 2) Specify the width of the binding.01 Mock Clean Finish Binding 1) Specify width of Binding BSb 3.07 Hemming Tee Shirts.01 Hemming Shirts. etc.02. Chainstitch 1) Specify the needle spacing. and 2) Width centerplait. coverstitch BSg Sewn in 2 Operations 3. Shorts.06 Mock Clean Finish Binding 1) Specify the width of the binding. and 2) Needle Spacing. 503 Stitch.

Page 3 of 6 .) 3) Requires hemming folder & elastic guide. sheer curtains.17. 1/4" needle spacing and 1/2" width hem.05 Hem and Insert Elastic to Infants Panties. 8/25/2006 Seam Drawing 751a Number ISO 4916 Number Common Application Requirements Seam Drawing 751a Number ISO 4916 Number Common Application Making straps. INC.07.26. (Ex. 1/4" needle spacing and 1/2" width hem. 1) Specify with of strap. 1) Specify the needle spacing.01 Making straps or belts with clean finish with interlining. 1) Specify width Bite. All International Rights Reserved. EFad 8. 1) Specify with of strap.AMERICAN EFIRD.04 Making straps or belts with clean finish. American & Efird.24. 1) Specify needle spacing.03 Making straps or belts with clean finish.03.03 Hem and Insert Elastic to Infants Panties. Flys. etc. EFf Hem & insert 7.01 1) Specify with of strap. 1) Specify the needle spacing. etc. 1) Specify with of strap. (Ex.26. EFj 8.24. EFq 7. and 2) Specify the width of hem.01 Serging Pants Panels. and 2) Specify with of strap.05. etc. is required. 1) Specify the needle spacing. (Ex. Requirements EFd Serging 6.01 Making straps or belts with clean finish. and 2) Specify the width of hem. 1) Specify with of strap.19. 1/4" needle spacing and 1/2" width hem. 3/32") 2) A hemming P. etc.F.) 3) Requires hemming folder & elastic guide. 2006. EFy 8.06. EFp 8.03. EFr Tunnelled Elastic 7.01 Making straps or belts with clean finish. 3/16") EFu Making Spaghetti 8.01 Making straps or belts with clean finish. The stitch is hidden and not visible. (Ex. and 2) Specify the width of hem. Facings. EFz 8. (Ex. EFg 7.01. 1) Specify width Bite. EFe Serge & Hem Serging edges of napkins. 1) Specify with of strap.) 3) Requires hemming folder & elastic guide.02 Hem and Insert Elastic to Infants Panties.05 Hem and Insert Elastic to Infants Panties. etc. etc. Inc. 1) Specify the width of hem EFn 8.

etc.01 Seaming yokes to back on Shirts or Blouses in one operation.01. 3) and needle spacing.specify the seam width . 1 1/2") 3) Requires a Folder with Top Strip Folder with LSf Yoking 1) Specify margin from stitch line to edge (example: 1/16" or 3/32") LSm Set-On Center Plait 7. All International Rights Reserved.14. 2) Specify Needle Spacing.AMERICAN EFIRD.01 Facing front pockets on jeans 1) Facing should be serged prior to being set. Generally spacing w 3/8" seam width). LSk 7. LSq Seam & Cord Seam 2. 3) A folder consisting of an upper strip folder and lower strip folder is required. 3) A folder consisting Waistband to Chinos of an upper strip folder with guide for interlining.highly skilled pockets on Suit Coats. 2) with a two or three A felling folder with correct needle 401 Chainstitch capacity is required. etc.(Ex. 2) 2nd Operation . Jackets. (Ex. Page 4 of 6 . Example: 1/8" header. INC.01 For setting patch pockets. 1) 1st Operation .06 1) Specify needle spacing & Seaming Jeans.57.03 Waistbanding on 1) Specify needle spacing and 2) Tape Pajamas.generally sewn with a coverstitch 605 or 607 Requirements LSa Lap Seaming 2. 2) 2nd Operation . LSd Patch Pocket Setting 5.32. American & Efird.02. Shirts. pocket facings. flaps.76. (Ex: 1/4 needle Jackets. seam width. 1/4") LSn Not Common LSbj 5.specify topstitch margin. 2) Specify margin Overcoats and Jackets (example: 1/16" or 3/32"). 2) A pressure foot with a yielding section is used to maintain a uniform margin from the stitch to the edge. Making Rod width. generally sewn with a 2) Specify Needle Spacing..01.02 1) Generally done on a 607 Joining & Taping Fronts Flatseaming machine with or of Knit Briefs & Thermal with the upper spreader thread. 1"). Attaching knitted cuffs .B. LSs Patch Pocket Setting 2.30.02.01 1) A seaming guide or trimmer Attaching knitted cuffs is used to keep the edges even.3) A folder combining a turn Pkt. 1) Specify Needle Spacing (Ex.specify seam width. 1) Specify margin (example: 1/16" or 3/32").01 1) Specify the needle spacing.. operation. Inc. 2. (Ex.05. required. LSj Two piece Waistband 7. LSe Yoking 1.02 Setting Sleeves on Dress Shirts or Blouses 1) 1st Operation . and lower strip folder is or Work Pants required.03 Sideseam on jeans. 2) Attaching a width of W. 8/25/2006 Seam Drawing 751a Number ISO 4916 Number Common Application Requirements Seam Drawing 751a Number ISO 4916 Number Common Application Setting Elastic to panties or briefs 406 or 407 stitch.01 Attaching Set-On Centerplaits to Shirts and Blouses Lsas Crotch Seaming on Jeans & Chinos 1) Specify needle spacing .01 1) A seaming guide or trimmer is used to keep the edges even. etc. Chinos. 2) A folder consisting of upper and lower scrolls are required.B.a folder may be required.01 Attaching a Waistband to Chinos or Work Pants 1) Specify the needle spacing.01 Not as common as LSq where the piece is attached and then corded or topstitched.04. etc. 2006.generally with a 301 Lockstitch LSg Two piece Waistband 7. 2) Requires an upper Taping Underwear Folder.22. 1) Specify the dimension from stitching to edge of top ply.62. LSr Sleeve Set 2. LSz Joining & Taping 2.1/4" ndl spacing) LSb 2..on Curtains & down folder and strip folder is Shower Curtains. 2) Specify width of Centerplait (Ex.605 or 607 1/4" ndl spacing) LSa Attaching Elastic 2.coverstitch .02 For setting large patch 1) 1st Operation . 1) Specify margin (example: 1/16" or 3/32").06. Not as common as SSq. 2) width of W. Seaming yokes to back on Shirts or Blouses in one operation.31.specify number of needles (1. LSc Felled Seam 2.

dresses.03 Joining the Bib to Pants 1) Needle Spacing and 2) Strip of Bib Overall in 1 width are required.19. Saddle Stitching 1) Specify Design Pattern with dimensions of stitch location SSa General Seaming 1.19 For seaming and 1) Specify Seam Margin. INC.05. SSaa Attaching Tape to Edge Attaching a Zipper tape 1) Specify width of tape. 1) Seam Margin must be specified to maintain fit.18/ 1. & Topstitch For seaming and piping edges of cushions. 3/8" wide and 3" long) OSa Decorative Stitching 5. 2006. and 2) Topstitch Heading / Margin SSae French Seaming 1.01 LSar Joining the Bib to Pants 1) Needle Spacing and 2) Strip of Bib Overall in 1 width are required.01 For seaming fabrics that may be susceptable to Seam Slippage 1) A hemming folder or guide is generally used.28. (Ex. 2) A seaming guide is used to keep the edges even. Requirements LSl 2. & Topstitch 1. Blouses. and 2) to Fly Facing.02 Seam. between 1st & 2nd process. 3. etc.03 SSn Hem Seam 1.01. Generally sewn with a 607 stitch. 3) There is a turning process between 1st & 2nd process. Exercisewear.11 For attaching a Zipper Tape between the Shell and Facing. FSf Bolt End Seaming Bolt-End Seaming with a 501 Stitch OSf Sewing Darts 6. and 3) a Folder pillow. Fold. SSj 1. 1) Seam Margin must be specified to maintain fit. 2) Specify Seam Margin SSk Seam with Piping 1. Fold. operation.02 For making collars & 1) Seam Margin must be Cuffs on Shirts.06. Attaching Specify seam margin Stay Tape to Armhole SSax Seam. maintain fit. 2) A seaming guide facings on Jackets. is used to keep the edges even. etc. 2) A seaming guide or trimmer is used to keep the edges even. SSe Runstitch & Topstitch 1. 3) There is a turning process setting fly on Chinos. attaching yokes to backs on casual shirts.01 Dart panel on Slacks. 2) May in seam require a Foot with grooved bottom if cord is used in piping. operation. 8/25/2006 Seam Drawing 751a Number ISO 4916 Number Common Application Requirements Seam Drawing 751a Number ISO 4916 Number Common Application Flatseaming Underwear.01. etc. Inc.06.12 1) Seam Margin must be specified to For seam apparel. SSaw 2. Fleese. American & Efird.20. Chinos. A zipper Foot may be required. 2) Hem width should be specified. 2) Topstitch piping edges of Heading / Margin. Page 5 of 6 . is used to keep the edges even. etc. SSab Seaming & Taping Joining Shoulders with Stay Tape. FSa Flatseaming 4. 1) Specify width of Dart and length.01 Most common seam construction for both wovens & knits. Pajama Tops. may be used to make the piping w/or wo cord etc. 2) A seaming guide bagging front pockets. Attaching Facing to Jacket Front with Stay Tape 1) Specify width of Stay Tape.AMERICAN EFIRD. operations. Dresses. pillows. 1) Seam Margin must be specified on both 1st & 2nd For edgestitching front operations. All International Rights Reserved. 2) A seaming guide is furniture with piping used to keep the edges even. Example: 3/8" Hem.01 Decorative Stitch Back Pockets on Jeans. 1) Specify Seam Margin. specified on both 1st & 2nd attaching front pockets.

01 Not Common SSc Page 6 of 6 1. etc.01 Attaching Lining to Cuffs for Shirts & Blouses 1) Specify the Width Hem. SSl 1.01 1) Specify finished width. SSaz 8. and 2) Specify seam margin. Gym Shorts 1) Specify Width of Elastic. Dresses.04.: 3/4" Tape with 1/2" needle spacing) Manual method for making a felled seam.01 Hemming and attaching zipper tape. 1/16 or 3/32 inch). Dresses. (Ex.04 1) A swing out marging guide is For attaching Yokes to required along with a Yielding Back or Shoulder Presser Foot. 1/4") SSd 1. SSf Butt Seam & Tape 4.06.06 For Side Seaming Shirts.04.Specify Needle Spacing.08 For setting front pockets on Jeans SSv 5. 1) Lay ply 1 on top For Side Seaming Shirts. (Ex. machine. 2) This Making Straps. SSh Seaming & Coverseaming 4.07 Not common. Similar to guide should be used (example: LSe but done in 2 steps.02 Seaming. of ply two with edges uneven. SSs 7. Fold & Cord 2. 1) Hem ply 1 around ply 2 . 3. Blouses. All International Rights Reserved.03.02 For Butt seaming & Taping heel seams on Shoes.01 Not common. 2) Fold and Toptitch .21. seam is made on a special "spaghetti" etc.01 For attaching stripes to Shirt Fronts. etc. if necessary. etc. Blouses. American & Efird.AMERICAN EFIRD. Belts. Inc. 2) The correct PF Joining on Shirts. SSp Hem Seam 1. 2) Hem width should be specified. . etc.01 For coverseaming knit 1) Suggest using a 504 for 1st tops. etc.06.10. Shorts.08. appearance SSt Attaching Elastic 7. 1) Specify width of tape. 1) Seam margin must be specified on 1st Operation.04 Not common SSw Mock Felled Seam 2. 2) Specify Hem width and 3) Heading /Topstitch Margin 1) A heming folder is used to hem the bottom ply uniformly. or 4 rows of 401 chainstitch are used to make this seam . 8/25/2006 Seam Drawing 751a Number ISO 4916 Number Common Application Requirements Seam Drawing 751a Number ISO 4916 Number Common Application For seaming fabrics that may be susceptable to Seam Slippage Requirements SSq Seam. 3) If more than one needle. with the preferred margin Blouses.09. SSbc Lining Cuffs 1.42. 2006. undergarments to operation and 406 with 1/4" reenforce the seam and needle spacing for 2nd give it a decorative operation. INC. 2) Seaming guide on Coverseaming machine.09 For seaming knitted or woven elastic to Boxers.01 1) A hemming folder is generally required. specify needle spacing (ex. etc.: 1 1/4" Elastic with 4 rows 1/4" needle spacing) SSag 4. SSw (b) Mock Felled Seam Manual method for making a felled seam. 3) A taping folder is required fold and guide the tape on to the seam. then Taping Seam 1) The finished width of the Tape and 2) needle spacing on For taping the shoulder the taping operation is and neck of Tee Shirts generally required. Example: 3/8" hem. 2) Needle spacing and Tape width specified on 2nd operation. 2) Hem width should be specified.11. 5. 1) Specify Tape Finshed Width and 2) Needle Spacing.Specify Hem width and 2) Topstitch seam Heading /Topstitch Margin SSb 1. SSat Setting Stripes Shirts. 2) Usually 2.Heading /Topstitch Margin 1) Manual method for making a felled seam. SSe is more common.

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