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A top can be worn with pants, skirts, etc. Tops come in different shapes, sizes, patterns and designs. But the basic method of stitching a top is the same. Alterations to the sleeves, neck, length, etc makes it look different. A kurti is a slightly longer top which more or less resembles a kameez and is usually worn with jeans pants, patiyalas, gatherings,etc. Construction 0 to 1 – Top length 0 to 2 – 1/6 chest +1" 2 to 3 – 1/4 chest + 1" or 1 ¼ " or 1 ½” 0 to 4 – half shoulder 4 to 5 – 1/2" 0 to 6 – 1/6 round neck + 1/2” 0 to 7 - Back Neck depth (standard = 3”) 6 to 8 - Front Neck depth (standard = 6”) 0 to 9 – Waist length 9 to 10- ¼ waist + 1” or 1 ¼” or 1 ½” 1 to 11- 2 to 3 measurement +2” or 3” 11 to 13- 1” Join 3 to 5 through a curve passing through‘d’ as shown. ‘a’ is the midpoint of 3 and ‘d’. Take ‘b’ ½” from ‘a’ and draw another curve from 3 to 5 through ‘b’ and‘d’. The inner curve through ‘b’ is the front arm hole, and the outer curve through ‘a’ is the back arm hole. Join 6 to 8 through a curve to get the front neck and 6 to 7 through a curve to get the back neck. Join 6 to 5 for the shoulder. Join 12 to 13 as shown. Method For stitching a top, first measure and note down the body measurements. Then take the cloth, open it in the reverse such that the two selvedges of the cloth are on top of each other. Then fold again such that the two ends are on top of each other.
shoulder and arm hole. double fold the ends and stitch it with the arm holes. . Most importantly the shoulder line of all the four pieces must be equal. First finish the neck. Hence take care while cutting it. Then cut the sleeves.Mark the measurements directly on the cloth using the construction given above (Or first make a paper draft). cut the cloth. Refer SLEEVES for its construction. Your top is now ready. Then join all the lines and curves. For this refer FINISHING THE NECK. Refer STITCHING THE SIDES for details. Then stitch the sides and if required leave a small opening at the two sides. Stitching has to be done on the marked lines and curves. Remember that the front and back necks and arm holes have to be cut separately because their curves are different. Then leaving 1” extra cloth along the sides and bottom of the dress and ½” extra cloth along the neck. Finally finish the ends by double folding the extra cloth and stitching.
HOW TO STITCH GATHERING PANTS / CHURIDHAR A Churidhar or gathering pant is often worn with Anarkali suits or short kurtis. This type of pant can be stitched at home by following the measurements and instructions given below. Then fold it as a triangle as shown below and mark the measurements. Measurements needed Length: (41”) Hip: (35”) Waist to knee length: (22”) Round knee: (14”) Round ankle: (9”) Approximate measurements are given in brackets just for reference. Use your body measurements for stitching the Churidhar. If 46” or 48” width cloth is available then 2 1/4 metres is sufficient. Method First open the cloth fully and fold in the reverse as shown. Material required 2 times length + 20 cms Generally 2 ½ metres of cloth is required for stitching normal size Churidhar. .
8”= 14”) 6 to 7 = half round knee + ½” = (7” + ½” = 7 ½”) 1 to 8 = half round ankle = (4 ½”) (Please note that the calculations given in brackets are just for reference.0 to 1 = length + 8” or 10” or 12” – waist band width (8”) = (41” + 10”.8”= 43”) 0 to 2 = 1/3 hip + 1 ½” – waist band width (8”) = (11 ¾” + 1 ½” – 8” = 5 ¼”) 2 to 3 = 1/3 hip +3”= (14 ¾”) 3 to 4 = 1” 4 to 5 = straight line 0 to 6 = waist to knee length – waist band width (8”) = (22”.) . Use your measurements to calculate the above.
Now cut the cloth leaving 1” allowance along the sides and ends as shown. Then cut pieces with required allowances according to the shape of the missing piece and stitch such that 0253 shape is complete. join the two at the reverse along the 5 to 3 curves. Take the waist band and make small 1/8” cuts (or mark with a chalk) at a distance of 6” from the centre at b and b’. take the two legs and double fold and stitch at the ends. After cutting the two legs.After marking the measurements on the cloth. Refer stitching the waist band for more details. we have to cut the waist band. mark 4” from the ends. Once the waist band is ready. The pleats on the churidhar have to be stitched between b and b’. it has to be stitched to the legs. Next finish the waist band. . Similarly make a small cut at the centre of the back part of the waist band at a. The cloth below the marking ‘a’ has to be double folded and stitched (just as you stitch the side opening for a kurta or kameez). draw the 3 to 8 curve making sure that it passes slightly outside the 7 measurement. After the two legs are stitched. If an opening is needed at the ankle. Cut a single piece of cloth using the following measurements. From this point ‘a’ start stitching along the 8 to 3 curve. 0 to 1 = waist band width (8”) + 2” = 10” 0 to 2 = Full hip + 6” loose = (41”) 1 to 3 = Full hip + 6” loose = (41”) Now for the draw string cut a thin piece of cloth using the following measurements Length = Full hip + 6” loose + 9” or 10” = (50”) Breadth = 1 ½” After the cloth is cut and ready.
e. i. Start stitching the joint along the 5 to 3 curve and a and stitch for 1” distance. Now with the remaining cloth on the legs. one on either side. take even inward pleats and stitch it to the waist band. Then fold the cloth to form a single outward pleat of 1” and stitch. (There are only 2 pleats at the back. . Once the pleats are done. Your gathering pant or Churidhar is now ready. Now stop here and start stitching again from a till you reach b’(or b). finish the Churidhar by over locking the extra cloth on the reverse to prevent thread from coming out. Insert the draw string through the opening and stitch button or hooks at the ankle opening.First start by stitching the legs to the waist band from the back from a. Make sure that the joint in the centre of the waistband coincides with the joint along the 5 to 3 curve in front.) Continue stitching till you reach b (or b’).
Join 0 to 3 through a curve as shown passing through ‘a’. cut the cloth. Double fold the extra cloth along the 1 to 4 line and stitch. The inner curve through ‘c’ is for the front arm hole and the outer curve through ‘b’ is for the back arm hole. Then mark the measurements on the cloth as shown. Then leaving ½” allowance along 0 to 3 curve and 1” allowance along 3 to 4 and 1 to 4 lines.1/6 chest + 1” 1 to 4 . LONG SLEEVES . ‘b’ is the midpoint of ‘a’ and 3.sleeve length 0 to 2 .NORMAL SLEEVES Construction 0 to 1 . The sleeves are now ready. Take ‘c’ 1/2” from ‘b’ and draw another curve as shown.1/12 chest + ½” 2 to 3 .Half round arm +1/2” Method First fold twice the cloth such that you get 4 layers one on top of the other.
Measure till you reach the wrist. At this point measure round arm and note down the measurements. Using your measurements calculate the above and mark on the cloth. This is the sleeve length.Anarkali dresses and short kurtis usually have long sleeves. Similarly find the elbow length and round elbow. cutting and method of stitching long sleeves is given below. The construction. Construction 0 to 1 – sleeve length 0 to 2 – 1/12 chest +1/2” 2 to 3 – 1/6 chest + 1” or 2” 1 to 4 – half round arm 0 to a – elbow length a to b – half round elbow Method Take an inch tape and place 0 at the shoulder joint. The cloth has to be .
folded in the reverse as shown. Cut the cloth leaving 1” allowance at the sides and wrist and ½” allowance at the arm holes. HOW TO STITCH A KAMEEZ WITH COLLAR Collars.The construction and method of stitching a kameez/ top with collar is given below. Full Chinese collar is a basic collar covering the entire neck whereas half Chinese has half collar and half normal neck. Once the sleeves are cut. Chinese collar Construction (Common for both full and half Chinese collar) . especially the Chinese collars can be stitched on kameez and Kurtis. After the sleeves are cut. Attach the sleeves to the arm holes and start stitching the sides starting from the wrist end and ending at the side opening of the kameez. Kameez with collars are usually worn with Churidhars or gathering pants. The sleeves are now ready to be stitched to the Kameez or Top. double fold the extra cloth along the wrist end and stitch. draw an inner curve as shown in the front part of each sleeve and cut accordingly. Chinese collars are of two types full Chinese and half Chinese. Use the construction for the kameez and cut the cloth. They are small standing collars with front opening and are usually stitched with thick materials or a stiffener is stitched so that the collar stands stiff. Mark the measurements on the cloth and draw the curve from 3 to 4 passing through b. Stitch at the shoulders and finish the neck.
The cloth along 4’ to 4 is attached to the neck part of the top. Construction for kameez/ top 0 to 6 = 1/6 round neck = (2 ¼”) 0 to 7 = ½” (Back neck) 0 to 8 = 1/6 round neck + 1”= (3”) Approximate measurements are given in brackets so that you may have an idea. . 1 ½” 1 to 4 = collar width – ½” = 1” 1 to 5 = ½” Join 2 to 5. The same construction can be used for stitching both half and full Chinese collars. 7 ½”) 0 to 2 = 1” 2 to 3 = collar width = e.g.g. Full Chinese collar Full Chinese collars usually have a front opening. The other measurements are the same as for a normal kameez. 4 to 5 and 3 to 4 as shown Cut two pieces of cloth using the above measurements leaving 1/2” allowance on all sides except the fold. Place the two pieces on top of each other and stitch on the reverse along 4 to 5 and 4’ to 5’ and 5 to 5’ line and then turn to the correct side.0 to 1 = Half Round neck (e.
Refer how to stitch a top for more details. The opening can be finished by double folding the cloth or stitching facing pieces of cloth. Refer how to stitch a top for more details. Once the neck is ready. After cutting the top first begin by joining the front and back pieces at the shoulders and then stitch the collar part at . attach the sleeves and complete stitching the kameez in the same way as that of normal kameez. Using the measurements cut the top leaving the required allowances. you can double fold the extra cloth along the front opening of the top. Half Chinese collar Construction for kameez/top 0 to 6 = 1/6 Round neck 0 to 7 = ½” 6 to 8 = 6” or 7” (Front neck) The other measurements are the same as for a normal kameez. Hence if you are stitching a top with full front opening then leave 2 1/2" allowance along the 0 to 9 line for the front part of the top and using the measurements cut the top leaving the required allowances. For a fake front opening stitch the two front pieces together leaving 4" or 5" on top. After cutting the top first begin by joining the front and back pieces of the top at the shoulders and then stitch the collar part at the neck making sure that you fold the extra cloth of the collar and stitch such that the extra cloth along the neck of the top is sandwiched inside the collar. Make sure that the finishing is perfect. Once the neck part is stitched.Mostly full Chinese collars are stitched with tops with front opening. Finally stitch buttons or hooks and your kameez with collar is ready.
and continue to stitch over the two facing pieces also. Then remove the back piece and mark lines as shown and cut the piece. Then fold the facing pieces to the reverse side and stitch . Fold ½” along the sides of both the facing pieces and give a stitch. Similarly place the front piece of the top on another extra cloth and draw the outline. Now we have two facing pieces. This is done to prevent thread from coming out. ½” from the end of the neck. This is done to facilitate turning of the attached facing piece. Then place the front and back pieces of the top such that their correct sides are facing each other and stitch on the reverse side over the marked line on one side of the shoulder. FINISHING THE NECK For finishing the neck first place the neck of the back piece on an extra cloth and draw an outline. This piece is called a facing piece. Then finish the neck by stitching facing pieces.the neck making sure that you fold the extra cloth along 4 to 4’ and stitch such that the extra cloth along the neck of the top is sandwiched between the two layers of the collar. one for the front and another for the back. These two pieces will be used to finish the neck and will not be seen as they will be stitched in the reverse side of the dress. Do the same thing with the front piece. Remove the piece and mark lines as shown and cut the piece. Similarly stitch at the other end. Then make small cuts on the extra cloth. Stitching the pieces First place the reverse side of the facing piece on the correct side of the back piece and stitch on the line.
along the neck to set it in place. SIZE CHART 1 The following is the size chart commonly used for stitching the basic Indian dresses. . The neck area is now finished. SIZE CHART 2 This is the standard size chart commonly used for stitching children's dresses.
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