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THIS IS A PART COPY OF THE BENSEN HEAD CONSTRUCTION MANUAL THE ONLY PARTS MISSING FROM THIS DOCUMENT ARE REFERENCES TO ITEMS AVAILABLE FROM THE BENSEN COMPANY AS THIS IS NO LONGER POSSIBLE.

Some sections of the drawing pack have omitted dimensions for hole locations, to assist the builder who might not have a full machine shop; or precision inspection tools. The construction steps are arranged in a manner of stacked parts; clamping and drill-through holes which will allow for greater accuracy on the finished assembly. All holes should be drilled 1/32”-1/16” undersized and reamed to finished size. Rectangular bar stock may not be flat ,square ,or may have some bow or twist, and may not be the precise dimension described. The surfaces that join or bear on each other may have to be filed or machined flat to match drawing dimensions (comment ) variation from sizes stated is ok by a small amount but basic geometry must not be altered ,tolerances and press fit dimensions must be kept to)

CONSTRUCTION STEPS Upper Fork Assembly -5 Fork Drill (2) ¼” holes in one piece only, Drill and ream (1) hole in each piece to 0.875” + - 0.005” Press in a 12-DU-08 Bushing into each hole. -8 Housing Square and parallel the (2) 3.750” sides of the block. Bore the 2.24404” + - 0.0003” hole ( make sure the hole is in the centre of the block . Face both sides of the block square to the bore.
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-6 Stop Carefully centre and drill the 1 ¾” hole Drill (4) ¼” holes as shown Mill or file (2) 8.5 degree bevels parallel with the faces of the block.Make sure the 3” dimension is flush or slightly undersize with the sides of -8 Housing. -9 Retainer Centre and drill the 1 ¾” hole. -4 -5 Top centre Bottom centre

Machine to dimensions shown: O.D. 1.1812 +/-0.0002”. Faces must be 90 degrees to 1.1812 Dia.and the 0.500” hole must be concentric with the diameter.

-22 Teeter Block Square and parallel the 1 ½” x 2” sides of the block. Drill (4) holes and ream. ( make sure the 0.750” +/- 0.003” location of the 0.500” hole and the 0.375” hole are located from the same side of the block . The placement of these holes determines the centering of the rotor rotating axis with the bearing centre. -3 Pivots Carefully machine and maintain a GOOD SURFACE FINISH on the 0.7497” +/0.0002” Dia. Make sure base and flat on shoulder are 90 degrees to O.D. The 0.375” hole must be centered with the O.D. as otherwise this would cyclic the offset blade pitch Drill the 0.375” hole Press 5206 Bearing into -8 Housing. Flush bearing race with face sides of block. Insert -4 Top Centre into bearing I.D.
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Install -3 pivot with washer into each 12-DU-08 Bushing on -5 Fork . Attach Forks to -22 Teeter block with 3/8” hardware. Tighten nut to 300 “ lbs. Insert ½” bolt through bearing and -4 Top Centre . Place -10 Bottom Centre over bolt, and on top of -4 Top Centre. ( this is used temporarily as a spacer) Locate Forks and -22 Teeter Block over ½” bolt, and on top of -10 Bottom Centre ( Spacer ). This assembly method will assure the centering of the Teeter Bolt with the Bearing Centre, and also determine the height of the Teeter Bolt from the Bearing face . Align the -5 Forks with the -8 Housing and clamp. Pick up the (2) drilled ¼” holes in -5 Fork and drill through the Fork and Housing assembly . Attach assembly with AN hardware and torque to 50 to 70 inch/lbs. Remove -22 Teeter Block from -5 Forks Centre -6 Stop on top of -8 Housing. Make sure bevelled edges are up. Centre -9 Retainer on bottom of 8 Housing and clamp assembly. Pick up and drill through the assembly, the (4) ¼” holes in -6 Stop. Attach assembly with AN hardware and torque.( Saw off bolt ends to leave two threads beyond lock nut. Remove the ½” Bolt and install -10 Bottom Centre used as spacer into 5206 Bearing I.D. This completes the Upper Fork assembly

Lower Gimbal Pivot Construction -12 Torque Tube Machine as per drawing. If the overhead Azimuth Stick is to be used drill a 1” hole, 2 ½” deep in end of Torque Tube, to accommodate the 1” tube of stick. The (2) ¼” drilled holes are laid out and drilled for the -18 Slotted Angle. Use the locating dimension shown on the -17 Crossarm (Note : If the joystick is to be used the front 3” of the torque tube can be cut off. The (2) ¼” holes for the -17 Cross Arm attachment are transferred from holes drilled in the Cross Arm. -13 Lateral Pivot Square and parallel the (2) 1” x 2 ½” sides of block . Lay out, drill and ream the 0.375” hole .
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-11 Long. Fork Locate, Drill and ream the 0.375” hole in both -11 blocks. Drill (2) ¼” holes in (1) piece only. Attach -11 Forks to -12 Torque Tube with AN hardware. Insert -13 Lateral Pivot block in position , flush with base and sides of -11 Forks and clamp. Pick up (2) ¼” pre-drilled holes in -11 Fork and drill through. Bolt assembly together with AN hardware and torque Loosen 3/8” Pivot Bolt ,and check for free pivot action ( 0.003” to 0.005” clearance ) if assembly is too tight, file or mill sides of -12 Torque Tube. If assembly is too loose file or mill sides of -13 Lateral Pivot Block.

-14 and -15 Lateral Forks Machine complete as per drawing Attach to -13 Lateral Pivot with AN hardware. Clamp torque Tube assembly in vice ,and level with a bubble protractor. Pivot Gimbal assembly fully forward, stopping on -14 Front Fork. Check angle of tilt with bubble protractor, placed on -13 Lateral Pivot Block. Correct tilt angle: 9 ½ to 10 degrees. File if necessary the 10 degree bevel of front fork to obtain the correct reading. Now pivot the Gimbal assembly fully rearward, stopping on the-15 Rear Lateral Fork. Check the angle of tilt with bubble protractor, The correct angle is 7 ½ to 8 degrees . File if necessary the 8 degree bevel on the -15 Rear Lateral Fork to obtain the correct reading. Gimbal Head Assembly Mount the Upper Fork Assembly onto the Torque Tube with ½” bolt . Torque up the castellated nut to 360 in-lbs. Don’t forget to COTTERPIN THE NUT ! Without the cotter-pin there is a danger the nut may unscrew in flight. Lubricate the Gimbal Pivot bolts and the mating faces with a light film of grease. Tighten castellated nuts as you would a wheel bearing. ( snug up the nut to expel excess grease, and then back off (1) castellation at a time until a free pivot is obtained.) COTTER-PIN BOTH PIVOT CASTELLATED NUTS. For Joystick use ,attach Cross-Arm and -18 Slotted bracket.
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For Overhead Azimuth Stick attach -18 bracket TO INSTALL OVERHEAD STICK : Clamp entire head assembly in a vice. Level Torque Tube both londitudally and laterally. Insert overhead stick in drilled 1” hole and align stick to be vertical to cross arm (this I think is a typing error but is includes as it is the original text ) and through drill Th (2) 3/16” attaching holes. Secure with 3/16” bolts and torque. Rotor Hub Assembly Centre the -22 Teeter Block on the Hub Bar, both span-wise and cross-wise, and clamp. Drill (2) 5/16” through holes. Secure with AN hardware. Torque 5/16” nuts to 140 in/lbs. Clamp head assembly in vice and level Torque Tube and -6 Stop plate. Attach Hub assembly with AN hardware . check flapping angle clearance of Hub. Tilt Hub fully rearwards in contact with bevel on -6 Stop Plate .Check angle of tilt. Correct angle is 8-1/2 TO 9 DEGREES. File bevel on -6 Stop Plate if necessary to correct tilt angle. Repeat procedure by tilting Hub fully forward, contacting bevel on -6 Stop Plate. Tilt angle should be the same. The Hub MUST pivot FREELY in the “DU” Bushing when the Teeter bolt nut is torqued to 300 in/lbs. Lateral clearance of -3 Pivots should be 0.003” to 0.010”. If excessive machine the seat end of -3 Pivots to correct lateral clearance .If clearance is to tight ,machine the shoulder faces of -3 Pivots. The “DU” Bushings are self-lubricating dry bushings, requiring no lubrication. They are made of globular bronze and teflon-lead coat material. Do not grease them to avoid the accumulation of grit. Every time the Hub is installed, the Teeter Bolt nut MUST be torqued to 300 in/lbs. and COTTERPINNED ! This then assures that the -3 Pivot bushing becomes an integral structure with the Teeter Block. This completes the rotor head ,the remainder has been abridged to cover mounting the assembly between the cheek plates and setting the spring pressure Mount head between cheek plates with a gap of about 0.170” between top of plates and bottom of -13 Lateral Pivot Block, adjust to give 51/2 to 6 degrees of travel either side. Tilt Torque Bar fully back and pre-load the trim spring to 30lbs tension using a spring balance.

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REQUIRED AIRCRAFT (AN) HARDWARE PART
Bolt Washer , Flat Nut , Castellated Pin, Cotter Bolt Washer ,Flat Lock nut Bolt Washer ,Flat Lock nut thin Bolt Washer , Flat Nut , Castellated Pin , Cotter Bolt Washer , Flat Lock nut thin Bolt Washer , Flat Lock nut thin Bolt Washer , Flat Lock nut thin Bolt Washer , Flat Nut , Castellated Pin, Cotter Bolt Washer , Flat Nut , Castellated Pin, Cotter

Qty
1 1 1 1 2 2 2 4 4 4 1 2 1 1 2 2 2 4 8 4 2 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1

(AN) No.
60-50 960-16 310-6 380-3-3 4-43A 960-416 364-428C 4-17A 960-416 364-428C 6-27 960-616 310-6 380-3-3 4-25A 960-416 364-428C 4-26A 960-416 364-428C 5-31A 960-516 364-524C 8-32 960-816 310-8 333380-3-4 6-41 960-616 310-6 380-3-3

Thread size ,Description
3/8-24 x 4-7/16 grip, Drilled 3/8 ID x 1/16 thick 3/8 x 24 3/32 x 3/4 Long 1/4 - 28 x 3-5/16 grip 1/4 ID x 1/16 thick 1/4 - 28 Flex-lock, all steel (SPS) 1/4-28 x 1-7/16 grip 1/4 ID x 1/16 thick 1/4 - 28 Flex-lock, all steel (SPS) 3/8 - 24 x 2-5/16 Grip, Drilled 3/8 ID x 1/16 thick 3/8 - 24 3/32 x 3/4 1/4 - 28 x 2-3/16 Grip 1/4 ID x 1/16 thick 1/4 - 28 Flex-lock, all steel (SPS) 1/4 - 28 x 2-5/16 Grip 1/4 ID x 1/16 thick 1/4 - 28 Flex-lock, all steel (SPS) 5/16-24 x 2-11/16 Grip 5/16 ID x 1/16 thick 5/16-24 Flex-lock, all steel (SPS) 1/2-20 x 2-9/16 Grip, Drilled 1/2 ID x 1/16 thick 1/2 x 20 3/32 x 1 long 3/8-24 x 3-9/16 Grip, Drilled 3/8 ID x 1/16 thick 3/8 - 24 3/32 x 3/4

Bolt Washer , Flat Nut , Castellated Pin, Cotter Bolt Washer , Flat Lock nut thin Bolt Washer , Flat Lock nut thin Bushing Washer Bearing Torque Values 3/16” Bolts 1/4” Bolts 1/2” bolt

1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 1

3-5 960-10 320-3 380-2-2 3-25A 960-10 364-1032C 4-26A special 364-428C

10-32 x 1/4 Grip 3/16 ID x 1/16 thick 10-32 1/16 x 1/2 long 10-32 x 2-1/4 Grip 3/16 ID x 1/16 thick 10-32 Flex-lock ,All steel (SPS) 1/4 - 28 x 2-5/16 Grip 1/4 ID x 3/4 OD x 1/16 1/4 - 28 Flex-lock, all steel (SPS) 12-DU-08 Bushing, “ Garlock” E12, Nylatron “GS” TC-10876 MRC 5206-SBKFF

20 - 25 inch/Lbs 50 - 70 inch/Lbs 350 inch/Lbs

PB PITCH BLOCKS (Pre -set pitch adjustable)

These drawings are not offered as plans for pitch blocks or intended as such, they are only to show an idea we have had to attach the rotors onto a boomtrainer with the minimum of hassle and get consistent pitch. The reason for this is that due to space restrictions the blades will have to be unshipped each time it is used, and rigging the blades each time intrudes into training time. Conventional blocks use the same 4 bolt layout with the blade bar rotating around a centre pin and the horizontal bolts tightened up when the blades are pitched correctly, Our idea of having a small clearance slot on the hub bar blocks and the blade bar projecting into this slot with jacking screws top and bottom is to be able to set the pitch of the rotors to optimum position then lock everything up. On removal of the blades, undoing either the upper or lower jacking screw but leaving its opposite untouched the main bolts can be withdrawn. Refitting the blades should then be a case of locating the blade on its pivot pin and between the 2 jacking screws, lightly nipping up the bolts and tightening the loosened jacking bolt and finally tightening the main bolts. This is the plan ,will it work in practice, and will it be consistent ? If not there is still sufficient material to machine back to convert to normal pitch blocks and use on the boomtrainer. The clearance holes for the horizontal bolts has been left open because we don't yet know how much angle is going to be needed on the blades, ( it will be a case of opening them up gradually to get the smallest clearance possible) The pocket milled in the hub bar blocks is 5/16" wide and we are guessing that 0.090" will be deep enough to allow the required rotation of the blade bar.

Note: These drawings are not offered as plans ,the information contained is just a record of our ideas.

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THE ROTOR BLADE (B-7) To build the rotor, you must first build yourself the BLADE WORK-BENCH. First, buy and assemble in one room all materials mentioned in the List of Materials. Take the 2"x8" board and nail it onto a 2"x10" to form a 'T', as shown in the Sketch 1. Use 5" nails, spacing them 12" apart. Make 2"x4" legs and braceboards and nail them onto the 2x10 two feet from each end. If your floor is not exactly level, put shims under the legs so the Bench does not rock. Put the level on top of the Work-Bench and make sure that its upper surface is: (1) level in all directions, (2) does not bow in either direction and (3) has no twist. Plane or sand the surface until it is as flat as a good carpenter's level can measure. Spread the wax paper on top of the Bench and tack it with thumb tacks on the front side. Cut two strips of pine 2"x2"x10' to be used as pressure-pads for gluing operation. Have a roll of wax paper, small nails and brads, Weldwood glue, your shop tools, a minimum of 16 six-inch "C" clamps and a putty knife on hand. You are now ready to go to work. All components are machined or cut to size before gluing begins. First, prepare the steel spars according to the Drawing: bend 3" of its butt end up 4 degrees; drill and countersink the holes for wood screws. Note the 3/16" locating hole for the Nose Weight. Do not drill six 1/4" holes, nor two 3/8" holes at the root; they are drilled on assembly later. Be sure to prime-coat the steel spars to prevent future corrosion. The upper retention straps may be prepared at the same time, priming and bending their ends 4 degrees up. Cut the leading edge strip 3/4"xl"x10', plane and mark the side to be glued. Cut the wood spar to size; note the taper of 7 degrees chord-wise and 2 1/2" to 1" taper spanwise. To make sure that it is absolutely square, saw it to a "chalk line" and plane true. Make it oversize in length. Cut root and tip filler-blocks on a 7 degree taper, make oversize in width and length, to be fitted later. Do not cut 4 1/2" bevel at the root yet, leaving the end square. Leave the lower and upper skin covers also overlength. If your lumber yard cannot supply you with 1/8" plywood in 10 ft lengths, you may join several shorter lengths together using the "scarf Joint" shown in the Sketch 2, or order a set of 10 ft skins from the Bensen factory. Cut the front edge of the upper cover to a "Chalk line" and plane straight. Its rear edge is cut on a 7 degree bevel and planed to a feather edge. The lower cover is cut rectangular for the time being, 1/4" oversize in width. The taper and reflex bevel will be cut later. Now all parts are assembled and fitted together in the following manner: Place the leading edge strip on top of the wax paper flush with the front edge of the bench. Align its rear edge marked for gluing to a chalk-line on the bench to assure straightness, and tack it in place with a few nails to the bench. Now place the Wood Spar in position butted against the leading edge strip. Slide the Root Filler Block into position under it and scribe a line on the Filler Block along the rear edge of the spar. Remove it and saw on line. Place the Block back in place, plane the top if necessary to flush with wood spar. Use the same procedure with the Tip Filler.
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Now lay the top cover in position; check all points for close fit. If satisfactory, remove it, the wood spar and the filler blocks. The blade is now ready for gluing. In first gluing operation, spread a thin coat of glue full length of the wood spar on rear 1/2 inch of bottom, and a thin coat of glue on the joining surface of the lower cover. Push the spar in place against the Leading Edge, and anchor with several small brads through the Spar into the Lower Cover. Root and Tip Filler Blocks are next. Put a thin coat of glue on their bottom and on the lower cover where they join; use a few small brads to anchor. The Top Cover is next. Spread a thin coat of glue where the cover joins the Wood Spar; on full length of the 1" scarf joint; on the area of filler block contact; on top of spar; both filler blocks; and the Lower Cover where it forms a scarf joint with the Upper Cover. Lay the Top Cover in place freely; do not force it into position as it may cause the blade to twist later. When properly located, anchor with a few small brads or wire nails. Now apply the Pressure Strips with 'C' clamps. First lay a length of wax paper on top of the blade, then lay one 2"x2"xl0' strip over the wood spar just rear of the leading edge; clamp with 8 or more 'C' clamps evenly tightened. Lay the other 2"x2"xl0' strip so its rear edge is flush with the rear edge of the Top Cover. Clamp evenly as the front strip. Wipe off all excess glue that squeezes out at seams. Now remove the Leading Edge. Again clean off thoroughly all excess glue from the strip and the front face of the wood spar. Let the blade set for at least 10 hours or more with room temperature over 70 degrees and humidity of 50 percent or less. The Leading Edge is then glued in place to the Wood Spar. Pressure on the leading edge strap is applied either by nailing through the strip into the wood spar, or by using 2" long wood screws spaced 12" apart. Lead holes must be drilled for either. After the glue has dried, nails or screws are removed, holes drilled oversize to accomodate 3/16" hard-wood dowels 2" long, which are inserted 12" apart and glued in place. The blade may now be removed from the bench. All that remains now is to glue the Upper Retention Filler Pad. It may be held in place until the glue dries with two clamps with wood strips for pressure pads. Let the blade season for several days in warm dry air to remove all glue moisture. Metal spars can then be screwed in place. Be sure to drill lead holes for the wood screws about ?" deep. Diameter of the lead holes should be about half of the screw diameter. A rubber-type adhesive may be used under the spar to assure a better bond with the wood, but not absolutely necessary. Root and tip ends are now cut and sanded to shape. Excess piec es sawed off at the ends are used as glue
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test-samples. Break them at glue joints: all joints should pull wood. If they part at glue surfaces, the blade may be unsound mechanically and should be either rebuilt or discarded. Use the leading edge as your guide to saw the blade to proper width. Then bank on the bottom of blade and saw the 7 degree reflex bevel on the trailing edge. Now shape the leading edge by planing and sanding or by multiple-step saw cuts, or both, Make an Airfoil Template form the Drawing to constantly check the airfoil contour. Remember, round leading edges, sharp trailing edges and smooth surfaces are essential to good aero dynamic performance. Fill large depressions, cracks and openings around the spar with plastic wood; or a mixture of plastic v/ ood and primer-surfacer. Use a sanding block rather than free hand for all contour sanding. Blades should then be sealed with a thinned mixture of good quality of wood sealer. Clamp the Upper Retention strip in place. 3e sure the distance between the spar and the strap is exactly 3/4" and they are parallel. This is quite important, bacause the Hub Plate is also 3/4" thick aluminum piece, and the steel straps must go from wood to aluminum without wedging or pinching. Drill six 1/3" holes in one setting and bolt together as shown on the print. You are now ready to install the Nose Weight and the Trim Tab. The Nose Weight consists of a 5" wide, 0.062" thick steel strip bent in U-shape, filled with plumber's solder and attached to the leading edge of the blade 24" from the tip. Use the Drawing as your template of the shape of the steel strip. Weld or braze the end plates on the sides of the U and the retention posts to hold the solder firmly in place. After they are filled with solder, the weights should weigh exactly 29 oz apiece. Use the 9th hole from the tip in the steel spar to locate your first outboard hole in the Nose Weight. The other two holes will straddle the No. 10 hole. Drill through with No. 11 (or 3/16") drill and use #10-32 (or 3/16") bolts to clamp the weight on the blade, Thin self-locking nuts, or shear nuts with lock-washers should be used and later may be covered with balsa streamlined caps. But you can fly also with the bolts unfaired. The Trim Tabs are made of 0.020" to 0.030" thick aluminum sheet cut 2"x6" and located 6" from the tip of the blade. One inch of its width overhangs the trailing edge of the blade and is bent up 10 degrees. To assure a better bond, glue it on with a rubber-type adhesive and secure it with three flush rivets. Finally, sand down the blade thoroughly, leaving no ridges, nor depressions, especially on the upper surface, round off the tip as shown, and cover the blade with the primer-surfacer. When completely dry, sand down with block and fine sandpaper and cover again with the primer-surfacer. After another thorough sanding, paint it with two coats of hard-gloss exterior synthetic enamel. For a still more durable finish, you may cover the leading and trailing edges of your blades with aircraft fabric, or Fiberglas. That type of finish will last several years. However, if you never used aircraft dope, or polyesters, before, you will be better off to stick to the simpler procedure.
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Your rotor blade is now ready for assembly. If it was correctly built, it will weigh 14 pounds fully assembled and its center of gravity will be at the station 57. Notice that the inboard ends of the steel straps are not drilled yet. They will be drilled "on assembly" later, when attached onto the Rotor Hub. If you made any mistakes on one blade, which might affect its weight distribution, or stiffness, you must repeat them on the second blade, or else start anew. It is very important that the two blades are exactly alike, as you will see from the instructions on "Rotor Tracking". The better work you do when building the blades, the fewer problems you will have when you start flying. One last word of caution. Take good care of your rotor blades, because they are what keeps you in the air when you fly. Keep them out of the rain, snow and sandstorms. When storing them for a long time, leave them lying flat on the work-bench in a dry cool place. Watch for signs of rusting or severe warping, which usually come with excessive humidity. Remember, rotor blades are your wings. Protect them as you do your arms and legs. If you do, they will give you many years of efficient and trouble-free service. LIST OF CONSTRUCTION MATERIALS 1 Qt. Primer-Surfacer 1 Lb. Weldwood Glue 1 Roll of Wax Paper 1 Pt. of Zinc Chromate Primer, Red Lead Primer of Alum. Paint 1 Pt, of good Wood Sealer 1/4 Lb. of Plastic Wood 1 Small Box of Thumb Tacks 3 Lbs Plumber's Solder Sticks 1 Qt. Good Exterior Enamel 1 Box of Wire Nails 1 Box of brads List of materials for one set, complete ? ?? ???????? ??. ??????????? ????????? ?????? ????????? 7-103-001 2 Main Spars, 1018 Steel* 1/8"x2"x118" 7-103-002 2 Upper Retention Straps, 1018 1/8"x2"x13" 7-103-003 2 Wood spars, Plywood, 5-ply 1/2"x21/2"10' 7-103-004 2 Leading Edges, White Pine 3/4"x11/4"x10' 7-103-005 2 Upper Skin Covers, 3 -ply Plywood 1/8"x5 3/8"x10' 7-103-006 2 Lower Skin Covers, 3-ply Plywood 1/8 x6"/10' 7-103-007 2 Upper Filler Pads, 5-ply Plywood 1/2"x3"x13" 7-103-008 2 Root Filler Blocks, 3-ply Plywood 3/8"x3"x20"
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7-103-009 2 Tip Filler Blocks, 3-ply Plywood 3/8"x3"x6" 7-103-013 2 Aluminum Trim Tabs .030"x2"x6" 7-103-01416 2 Nose Weights, 1018 Steel gage 5"x9" 7-103-015 116 Screws, Flat-Head #6x1/2" AN 4-14 12 Bolts for Blade Root 1/4"x1 1/16" grip AN 960-416 12 Washers" 1/4" AN 363-428 12 Stop Nuts " 1/4"-28 AN 23-19 6 Clevis Bolts for Nose Weights 3/16"x7/8" grip AN 364-1032 6 Stop Nuts, Thin #10-32 AN 6-15 4 Bolts, Blade-to-Hub 3/8"x1 1/16" grip AN 310-6 4 Nuts, castellated " 3/8"-24 AN 960-616 8 Washers " 3/8" 4 Cotter Pins " 1/16"x1" AN 456-A4-4 6 Rivets, Aluminum, soft 1/8"x 1/4"

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file:///G|/aaaaaa/Aviation/Aviation/Bensen%20B19-20%20Gyrocopter/Be...yrocopter%20Misc.%20Info/Gyrocopter%20Pre-flight%20Check%20List.txt

Here's what I use. You will have to modify it for your particular gyro.

PREFLIGHT CHECKLIST – SNOBIRD A10GYR MAIN ROTOR BLADES, HUB BAR - condition, leading and trailing edges, cleanliness, safety pins, bolts. TOWERS - bolts, thimbles, check for play in bearings. MAIN BOLTS - Jesus bolt, fore and aft bolt, lateral bolt, and bearings. TORQUE TUBE - condition, movement, bolts. PREROTATOR GEARS - condition, lubed, ring gear, clean excess grease UPPER CONTROL SYSTEM - condition, play, bolts, linkages, control rods, silicon bearings. BEACON - condition. LOWER CONTROL SYSTEM - condition, play, chafing, bolts, safety pins, cotter pins, cyclic movement, control stops. INSTRUMENT POD - condition, trim string, beacon operational. FRONT PEDALS, NOSE WHEEL condition, full pedal movement, bolts THROTTLE – freedom of movement LEFT REAR PEDAL - condition, movement, bolts. FUEL - tank valve on, check quantity, sight gage, contamination, cap is tight. LEFT MAIN TIRE, STRUTS AND BRAKES – shock mounts for condition, brake line, disc and puck, bolts, tire inflation. LEFT ENGINE – mounts, air filters, wires, hoses for leaks, wearing, muffler, spark plug leads, general condition. PREROTATOR - condition, play, engagement system. GEAR BOX - vent is unobstructed. PROPELLER - condition, check blades for damage Turns freely. RUDDER - cables, bolts, cracks, movement, rear wheel. RIGHT ENGINE - mounts, air filters, wires, hoses for leaks, wearing, muffler, spark plug leads, general condition. RIGHT MAIN TIRE, STRUTS AND BRAKES - shock mounts for condition, brake line, disc and puck, bolts, tire inflation. RIGHT REAR PEDAL - condition, movement, bolts. SEATS AND SEAT BELTS – condition and security HOBBS METER - record time. REMOVE ALL LOOSE OBJECTS FROM POCKETS!

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file:///G|/aaaaaa/Aviation/Aviation/Bensen%20B19-20%20Gyrocopter/Be...yrocopter%20Misc.%20Info/Gyrocopter%20Pre-flight%20Check%20List.txt

BEFORE STARTUP Face gyro in desired direction Seat belts Helmet and cords secure Flight controls for freedom of movement Radio plugged in, Intercom on and adjusted Altimeter set

START UP Check trim string for wind direction Fuel selector to rear tank Fuel pump/master on Full throttle 1 - 2 times if cold to prime Open throttle 1 inch “CLEAR'' Set brakes Start engine Set throttle for smooth engine running Idle minimum 1800 RPM Warm up engine for 5 minutes max 2800 RPM Beacon on TAXI Check Nose wheel and Brake operation Brakes for speed control Forward cyclic to engage rotor brake. ENGINE RUNUP Face into wind – hold brakes Engine rpm 3000 rpm Check rpm drop on both ignition systems Check Radio, Intercom, and flight instruments PREROTATION, TAKEOFF Set brakes Check area for safe spin-up Check trim string for wind direction Minimum RPM 2000 Forward cyclic Engage prerotator Allow blades to spin up to 75 RPM Release prerotator and brakes
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file:///G|/aaaaaa/Aviation/Aviation/Bensen%20B19-20%20Gyrocopter/Be...yrocopter%20Misc.%20Info/Gyrocopter%20Pre-flight%20Check%20List.txt

Cyclic full aft to load rotordisk Increase engine power smoothly as rotor RPM increases While taxiing, apply cyclic into the wind. SHUTDOWN Neutralize rotor disk. Engage rotor brake if needed Idle throttle all the way back Apply full brakes Beacon, off Fuel pump/master, off Ignition switch, off Radio and intercom off Secure rotor blades __________________

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