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Abrasive Pads for F'mshing
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The challenging part is you're worklawless Fit. Getting pieces to fit together perfectly is one of the ing with two different materials most satisfying parts of being a brass and wood. This means that typical woodworker. Like most woodworkers, woodworking techniques don't apply. For example, gluing brass to wood is it doesn't matter if the project is large or small. If the pieces fit together well, a problem. Whether you use yellow I'm happy. But getting a perfect fit is glue, white glue, or even epoxy, you easier said than done.
joints than cutting a bunch of slots. You also have to consider the spacing between each slot (the pin). To make box joints that fit together pe$ectly, the pins and slots need to "mesh" together like the teeth on a pair of gears. To make good box joints you need to cut the pins and slots with machine-like precision. And that's the idea hehind the Box Joint Jig shown on page 6. B o x JOINTJIG. Like many other box joint jigs, this one attaches to your miter gauge and can be used on either a table saw or router table. And like other jigs,it has a "key" to position the workpiece. But what makes this jig unique is the way the key is designed. ADJUSTMENT SYSTEM. The key is designed with a built& adjustment system that allows you to do two things. First, the size (width) of the key can be adjusted to fit slots from V4" a l l the way up to 13A6"(the width of a dado blade). This means you can cut different size box joints with only one jig. Second, you can change the spacing hetween the slots with the turn of a knob. This allows you to "dial-in" perfeet fitting box joints every time. SLIDING BEVEL GAUGE. Getting parts to fit together perfectly is also important when making the Sliding Bevel Gauge (see page 22).
Rivets allow you to do something screws can't -they can "draw" several pieces together from both sides and permanently lock them in place. Basically, it's just a matter of drilling a hole and using a piece of brass rod as a rivet. (For more on this, see page 24.) BAND S A W FENCE. Another project in this issue that uses metal is the Rand Saw Fence System (shown on page 16). Adding this system is an inexpensive and easy way to improve the accuracy and precision of your band saw. The heart of the system is the rails. The rails are made from aluminum angle. It's inexpensive and easy to work with. And it allowedme to solve a problem I've runinto when usingother band saw fences - "drift." (Drift is the tendency of a band saw blade to pull or lead one way or the other during the a t . ) ADJUSTABLE RAILS.The two-piece front rail is designed so you can change the angle of the fence. This way you can compensate for drift and end up with a perfectly straight, precise cut. FENCE ACCESSORIES. To make accurate stopped cuts (like the shoulders of a tenon), the fence is slotted for an adjustable stop block. This slot also allows you to attach a tall auxiliary fence. The extra support this provides makes
Router Jointer Box Joint Jig
All it takes to get a perfectly straight edge on a workpiece is a hand-held router and this shop-madejig.
Thisprecision-madejig produces tight-fitting box joints. The secret is a micro-adjustment system that lets you sneak up on the perfect fit.
Makind Box Joints Sharpening Brad Point Bits Band Saw Fence System
Professional look~ng box joints are easy to make with this ample step-by-step approach.
A file and a few basrc techniques are all you need to restore the edge on your brad point bits.
BOXJoint Jig -
Make perfectly strarght cuts on your band saw wrth thrs rock-solrd fence It features a bwlt-rn clamprng system, an adlustment for drrft, and two shop-made accessorres
Sliding Bevel Gauge
Band Saw Fence page 16
Brass and wood combine to produce a fine tool thatk both handsome and functronal Plus, some special technrques for worklng wlth brass and wood
ShI o Solutions ~
Seven Shop-Tested Tips: Dust Collector; Assembly Surface, Storing Waterstones,Auxiliary Fence Tip, Keyless Chuck Update, Drrll Bit Spacer, and a Biade Guard for Hand Saws.
Create a mirror-smooth finish on your projects by using abrasive pads rn between coats.
Hardware, project supplies, and mail order sources for the projects in this issue.
Sliding Bevel Gauge
GUIDERAUS. Then. see Fig. TOclamp short or narrowstock to the base. 1. These rails form a "track" to guide the carriage. see Fig. First. Onapower %'-THICK STOCK moves across the edge. one piece is used later tomake the carriage. Or you can dothe job with this simple jig and a router. 1. CUT-OFFB. There are two basic parts to this router jointer: a platform. they serve as temporary spacers to position the guide rails. and a sliding carriage. Second. Note: Save the cut-offs. This ensures that the 4 ShopNotes No. and two guide rails (B).apowerjointer. Since I do most of my work with %"-thick stoek. It's just a plywood base (A). Theimportant step in assembling the platform is to get the corred spacing between the . A l l that's left to complete the platform is to add the guida rails see F'ig. I made the guide rails the same thickness (3/4'3. 1. In my case. start by cutting two 1V4"-~de blanks to a (m. ASSEMBI~. rough length of 60". THE PIATFORM I started by building the platform. A JOINTER In some ways. 1. BASE. see Fig. 1. its 48' long. 8 . i e c ea clean. straight edge. slots are cut in from the front edge.rails. see photo.Thelengthofthe base(A) determines the maximum length of the workpiece that can be jointed. To make the rails. see F'ig. trim the rails to match the length of the base (48Ir). this C~eating a jigis similar to a power jointer stra@ht edge a revolving mtterhead produces a ~ k p . I used the cut-offs for two things. The thickness of these rails determines the nzaximum thickness of the workpiece.
What's unique is how joint which allows yon to sneak up on a perfect fit. quickly and easily it can be adjusted. a pair of plastic knobs of the pins and slots that make up a box joint. B. that's what you expect the pins and slots. e 6 ShopNotes No. two metal brackets form a "key" that positions the workpiece. After adjusting the box joint jig. The brackets form an almost endless amount of "tweaking.The adjustment system works by moving Unlike most box joint jigs I've used that require two metal brackets. see photo B. TO prevent the key from designed to adjust to the desired size and spacing "creeping"once it's adjusted."this jig can a "key" that automatically positions the workpiece he set up in a matter of minutes. it can be locked in place with two plastic knobs. By simply turning a knob. see photo C. Key. m~.A second knob changes the spacing of can make with it. The result is photo A. C. like fingers in a glove. T - * A.Box Joint Jig A unique micro-adjustment system lets you '%a1 innperfect fitting box joints o n your table saw or router table.creates a series of pins and slots that fit together tremely small increments. see locks it securely in place. 8 . This tightens (or loosens) the from a precision-made jig. A pair of knobs adjusts the jig to the desired size and spacing of the pins and slots. This system is LOCKING FEATURE. he thing that impresses me most about this set to cut slots that range in size from a width of box joint jig isn't the tight-fitting joints you 1/4" to 13!611. MICRO-ADJUSTMENTSYSTEM. The secret is a so each slot is cut a uniform distance apart. After all. Micro-Adjustment System. To cut identically spaced pins and slots. Locking Feature. This built-in system that lets yon adjust the jig in ex. the jig can be perfect fitting box joints.
. 1 E x 5Vz 1/4 Masanit8 - No.. 8 ShopNotes 7 .
TWO PARTS. the two parts are cut to final length. the workpiece spans any irregularities in the tableinsert that cancausethe depth of the slots to vary. see Fig. So why doesn't the fence alone solve the problem of ehipout? Because as the jig passes over the blade. see Fig. 1. the plate is held in place with a machine screw and knob (or wing nut). BLANK. see Fig. To provide plenty of support. It's a piece of V4" Masonite that fits in a shallow dado in the fence. you've removed the support. The plateprevents the wood fibers around the back of the slot from chipping out as the blade passes through the workpiece. the fence is 5&" tall (wide) and 18"long. The material rest consists of two parts. BACKJNG PLATE. see Fig. The fence (A) is just a piece of 34"-thick hardwood (maple) with the top corners mitered. the next step is t o add a replaceable backing plate.Both parts of the rest start out as a 3A"-thick blank. see Fig. It serves as a "shelf'to raise the end of a workpiece above the saw or router table. FENCE. This way.The box joint jig is designed with a tall fence that supports a workpiece when you stand it on end. The problem is once a large slot is cut. This two-part rest creates an opening that provides clearance for an adjustable 'key" that's added later. SECOND. la. a slot is cut in the fence as well as the workpiece. MATERIAL REST With the fence complete. the next step is to add a material rest. After cutting a rabbet on one edge to form the shelf. And it lets you slide the jig through the blade without cutting into the material rest. 1. This lets you cut slots on the e d of the workpiece by pushing the jig through the blade (or bit). c~osscvr PIECES TO LENGTH THIRD: TRIM FIXED MATERIAL REST 8 ShopNotes No. see Fig. After you've cut the fence to size. 8 . And a movable materlal rest (D) that slides from side to side. 1. AJeixed rest (C) is attached permanently to the jig. 2. That's where the backingplate (B) comes in. Then the fixed rest is trimmed to width and glued to the bottom of the fence.The movable rest is used later as aplatform for the adjustment system. To make it easy to replace when it gets chewed up. 1.
the L-brackets are attached to the ends of the blocks. the legs will extend in front of the fence and form the key that's used to position the workpieee. 3. see Fig. Basically.Now the brackets can he screwed to the ends of the blocks so the bottom 'legs" are flush with the front edge of the material rest (D). refer to Fig. FROM TRIMMED No. see Fig. 4. TO make the key adjustable. When the glue dries. A J J J U SS ~ m . 8 . To do this. Then the back block is glued to the movable material rest @) that was made earlier to create an Lshaped assembly.) The only unusual thing is the brackets need to be modified slightly to Gt the adjustment blocks. This requires trimming the ends and drilling an additional mounting hole in each bracket. (See page 51 for other sources .Adjustment System PLASTIC STAR NOTEIGLUEBACK AQJU6TMENT BLOCK FLUSH WITH BACK AND END OF After completing the material rest. work can begin on the adjustment system.see Fig. 3. KEY. see Fig. ATTACH BRACKETS. 5. 3a. slots are cut in theefront (E) and back ad@&rnmt blocks (F). Af- ter the adjustment system is assembled. this system consists of two adjustmeat blocks and a pair of Lshaped metal brackets. These brackets are just 4" mending plates that I picked up at the local hardware store. the next step is to add the adjustable key. The blocks and brackets work together to form a "key" that adjusts to thedesired size and spacing of the slots that make up the box joint.
TOensure the hole in the front block aligns with the slot. . and mark the hole at the end of the slot. ~ W-TMICK STOCK :: .Here again.. Theninstall a carriage bolt.one for the size of the key. TEMPLATE. 6 and 6a. But this time it passes through a hole in the f m e and the long slots in both blocks. . and knob as before.. 7a. . see Fig... . > : ~ ~ > 7 . . ~ r. . :Holding a long workpiece (like the boxjointjig)steadyw h e n ~ g h o l e s in end grain can be a challenge. . .. washer. . .: . I installed a special locking system. . ~ <. . . refer to Fig. with the work clamped to the A W i e a l &lEing jig holds lo -upright. place the assembly under the fence. pi. 7. 3a. I used the back block as a template. . I used a simple jig.see Fig. I used a Forstner bit to drill a counterbore. With the ends of the blocks flush. Then... . .~ . see Figs. . . a V4" brad point bit can be used to mark the center of the hole at the end of the slot. p. 8 . i.&rkPiiece . All that's left is to drill a counterbored shank hole in the fence. -~. . ~ . To locate this hole. see Fig. : ~ ? ~. SPACING LOCK. .. This system has two separate 'locks" . . The next step is to provide a way to lock in the FLUSH WITH END OF MATERIAL REST OND: MARK HOLE spacingbetween the key and the blade.. ~. loosen the table and swing NOTE: workm'eces securelw in &xe '*\ ~~. . so the upright extends over the edge.. To prevent this key from moving once it's adjusted..Locking System The two adjustment blocks allow yon to set the size and spacing of the key.. the adjustment blocks are held together with a carriage bolt and knob.. The bolt passes through a hole drilled in the front block (E) and through the short slot in the back block (F). It's just a couple of pieces of wood d together a t a right angle and a - I : . drill a shank hole for the carriage bolt. : . J'sMADE FROM :&. ~ No. After locatiig the centerpoint.. .$ 23...< . Then slide the blocks to the left as far as possible. Now the carriage bolt can be installed and a washer and knob (or wing nut) threaded on. 6 and 6a. SIZE LOCK TOlock in the size of the key.. . and one for the spacing between the key and the blade. .. ! <. 6.. ". DRILL HOLE. . " - . Then to recess the head of the bolt. see Figs..u&g&e & . see photo. So when Idrilled the holes forthe adjusting rods. a carriage bolt is used.
8. see box on page 10.the largest routerhit Iuseisalh"straight bit. The idea is to position the jig so you can cut the largest possible slot without cutting into the material rest. This requires mounting your widest dado blade (or largest bit). To do this. check that the miteigauge is-square to the blade. This system lets you " h e tune" the key to the desired size andspacing of the slots. see Fig. 9a After d mg holes for the adjusting rods and two mounting screws. The 2%"-long adjusting rods are cut from a piece of threaded rod. To accept the rods. One rod threads into the end back block. MIIER 6AU6E The last step is to attach the jig to the miter gauge. I used a simple drilling jig. ShopNotes . In my case. ADJUSTING RODS. see Fig. threaded inserts are installed in the fence (A)and back block(F). the plate can be used as a template to mark the corresponding boles in the end of the jig.' I Micro-Adjustment 5y5-tn 0. Then ~osition the fixed rest against the blade and screw the gauge to the fence. The trick is holding the jig steady to drill the holes. 9. 8. Marking the holes is easy. Note: Since I don't like to remove that much material with arouter. The most unique feature box joint jig is the micro-adjustment system. see Fig. By turn adjusting rods YOU slide the blocks from side to side which positions the key. the micro-adjustment system can be assembled. The ~ e c r e t is a pair of adjusting rods. TO make this work. see Fig. DRILLING JIG. END PLATE DIMENSION5 holes are drilled. an adjustment assembly is attached to the front block (E). and the otheri fence. END PLATE. 10a. 10.see Fig. The stop on the inside of the plate is a washer and lock nut. see Fig. Once the 10-92 WASHER (a. I made the end plate (G) from a piece of V4"-thick r i l l hardwood. The actual adjusting pressure is created by a "stop" on each side of the plate. Another washer and a knurled knob that's tightened against a nut forms the outside stop. Before installing the hardware. see page 12. This assembly consists of a thin wood plate and several pieces of hardware. To complete the jig. this was a 13/16" dado blade.) ADJUSTMENTASSEMBLY. (For more on using the micro-adjustment system.
the key is adjusted to match the width of the slot To do this. . To produce a box joint with the ends of the pins flush with the side of the adjoining piece. Step 3: Adjust Spacing. jointjigshownonpage6 solves the Perfect spacing between the pins first problem . Step 2: Set Width of Key.cutting identiand slots. Then tighten the out side locking knob. Using a slot cut in a test piece. ~. Moving the key closer to the blade loosens the joint Moving it away tightens the fit.But to solve the second part of the problem (getting the ends of the pins flush with the sides) there are two things youll need to take into account: the le@h of the pins and Step 1: Raise Blade. (For the pins flush with the side of the more on adjusting the box joint adjoining piece. -1. refer to Steps 2 and 3 below. ~> -- = Bax Joints g - - .=i . tighten the inside knob. : 2. jig. 12 ..) FLUSH PINS. Basically. loosen the locking knobs and turn the back adjustment knob until the slot fits snugly ove key. raise the blade to match the thickness of the workpiece. - ShopNotes No. Then make a test joint arrd readjust if necessary. And getting the ends of cally spaced pins and slots.Note: This is the distance from the material rest to the top of the blade. After positioning the key the width of one slot from the blade. Now turn the front adjustment knob to set the spacing between the slots.. there are only two reUsing the micro-adjustable box quirements for making box joints. 8 .TECHNIQUE . see photo above.
The next step is to determine the length of the pins (depth of cut). 'thickness''afew test pieces to use when adjusting the jig. use the first piece as a set-up gauge. So start by checking that all the pieces are the same thickness. To form pins that match the slots on the adjoining piece. Step 6: Form Mating Pins. cut the first slot. MAKE JOINTS. refer to Step 1on page 12. While it doesn't "make or break" the box joint. Step 5: Cut Matching Slots. So after cuttingeach piece to length. Then. After cutfing thls slot. I like the look of a full pin (or slot) on the end of each piece. Step 4: Cut Slots on End. nwAz JOINTS. Just turn it around so the waste edge 1 s on the opposite side and the slotthat was cut first fits over the key. the extra width is trimmed to leave afullpin (or slot). see Steps 4 through 6 below. Then position the workpiece to cut each of the remaining slots by straddling the key with the slot that was cut last. This may require some readjusting of the jig to get a perfect fit. Note: The "waste" also comes in handy for keeping track of which edge to position against the key. I start with a board that's maw than what's needed. NOW it's just a matter of cutting matching slots on each workpiece.aRercompleting the slots. The goal is to slide the pins into the slots with a "friction"fit. Note: While you're at it. Once the piecen are cut to "working" size. cut the rest of the slots using the same procedure as before. But the end result is worth the effort. flip the workpiece so the waste edge is oriented to the same side. To do this. Ideally. APPEARANCE. it's a good idea to make a trial joint.the thickness of the workpieces. To cut matching slots on the op: posite end.thethielmess of the workpieces. set the first plece as~de and complete the box joint. 8 ShopNotes . I use a test piece as a set-up gauge and raise the blade to match the thickness of the piece. With the edge of the workplece against the key. Then. see Steps 4 through 6. with the work held firmly against the fence and the material rest. I No. This creates a pin on the end of the piece. the length of the pins match.
POINT. To do this. it's easy to sharpen once you know how it works.perimeter of the hole. As the hole is drilled. the next step is to sharpen the lifters (cutting edges). (For more information on selecting a file. In fact. spiral flutes in the bit pull up and out thin wood shavings. SHARPEN LIFTERS. The basic idea is the two knife-edged "spurs. There's really nothing mysterious about sharpening a brad point bit. some brad point bits also have an auger. two cutting edges or "lifters" take over. and a twist bit. see box on page 15. It's like a hybrid of a spade bit. This prevents the bit &om "wandering" off the centerpoint as you start the hole. accurate holes in wood. Basically. they work best when properly sharpened. there's a sharp. I use a simple clamping jig. The .same as a twist bit. LIFTERS. This is just a scrap block of wood (I used a2x4) with a shallow V-groove. nique'ue. All it takes is a few strokes from a file. SPURS. tapered point for centering the bit on the workpiece." To pro. 8 .A file and a two-steptecha'' it takes to shaven a byad point bit. Like a spadebit. you canrestore a sharp edge in less time than it takes to drill a hole with a dull bit. ing chisels that shear off and lift FLUTES. see margin tip on page 15. In addition to the lift. Wlth the bit extending about 1"above the block.eject the chips from the hole like ers. these spurs flutes are ground at a steeper anscore the wood fibers around the gle so they eject the chips faster. rad point bits are designed specifically to cut clean. see box below. Although the '%usinessn end of a brad point bit may look a little complicated. After the point enters the wood. B Brad Point Bits the lifters act like a pair of revolv. a brad point bit combines the best features of three different drill bits.4 ShopNotes No. Like any other cutting tool. Only the duce a cleaner hole. COMBINATION BIT.) CLAMF'ING JIG. a Forstner bit. Like the cutting edges on a Forstner bit. The first step is to provide a way to hold the bit securely in place while you're sharpening it.
A light touch here keeps from damaging the lifters that spursoryou'll reduce the cutting diameter of the bit. mttjng edges with a fl& mill Ble.TO determine the correct filing angle. a safe"^ h t l e t you ffle eitherthe spururtheeuttingedge without damaging the ad&mnt surf~ce. you may be tempted to sharpen the point. Once you've "found" the angle. tion is a diamond needle file. Now take one or two strokes until the surface is shiny and flat. tilt the file so the face is against the inside of the spur. of d i i n k fies in the way. The trick is to file the flat without nicking the brad point or the spur. see Fig. Then find the angle again and repeat the filing process until the surface is shiny and flat. I usually keep track of the number of strokes I make on each lifter. This ensures that an equal amount of material is removed off each edge and that both lifters end up doing the same amount of work. The diimon abrasive on the file does an e m g e job of slmqming the hard steel . FILING ANGLE. If you have a brad point bit withspurs. To keep from rounding over the lifter. Since this Selecting a File bet. sharp line along the edge. A this t point. SPURS. see tos above and a & leR. The important thing is not to get carried away. Not reshape the hit. thenext step is to "dress" the inside of the REST FlLE ON ANGLED T L A P T FACE OF FlLE GAINST SPUR FILE INSIDE EDGE OF S P U R A scrap block of wood with a shallow V-groove holds the bit securely in place when sharpening. for s p u d bits.see speed steel. just rest the face of the file on the flat. The idea is to hone the cutting edge. --- - wkenmmdhE~itali4 ekdy suited to spurred b i t s is an auger dentallynickhg the spur or pint. But teeth on each face while the opposite s e w brad pint bits are Ele just gets end hss teeth only on the edges. The only dnrwback is an auger gle istoo b i g t o s b q x n smdterdiameter I)UOnT) m E D L $ FILE. push the file across the flat in a continuous motion. As a ~ s u l t .% . raise the file off the bit at the end of each stroke. 1. This requires filing the angled "flat" on the end of the bit.a II I ~ 1 I * secret is to create a clean. But it's easy to remove more from one side than the other. ~ 0 m . FlLE SPUR WITH LIGHT STROKES time.
Fence Clamp: Built into this fence is 8.There's a slot cut in the end of the piece of wood to the table of yourhand saw as fence to accept two optional accessories. see photo.The fence supports the workpiece and easily adjust the angle of the fence to get a straight determines the width (or thickness) of the cut. H @ A. ow many times have you clamped a scrap ACCESSORIES.Band Saw' Fence System This unique fence system features a built-in clamping system. (For more on adjusting the fence. and a set of metal rails.) I decided to build my own. One accesa fence? Then spent the next hour fiddling around sory is a simple block that acts as an adjustable stop with it just to get a straight cut. To cut. Fence Accessories: An adjustable a two-piece ckmp that pinches the stop block is one of two acckssories front railand locks the fence in position. The fence RAILS. that fit into a slot in the end of the fence. make sure it stays in place after it's beenpositioned. Adhtable RaH: The two-oiece front rail isSdesignedso you can'adjust the angle of the fence to get a straight cut. and a pair of handy fence accessories. see page 21. whenever it isn't being used. see photo C. see page 2 1. see photo B. The two-piece front rail allows you to quickly and FENCE.) there's a simple. But auxiliary fence that provides added support when this is an expensive option for most band saws. see In addition to being adjustable. The other is a tall The solution is simple -add a fence system. but effective fence clamp. C. So resawing. the fence is rock designed sa that you can easily lift off the fence solid -there's no side to side play whatsoever. a 16 ShopNotes No. (For more on this. 8 . adjustable rails.The fence fits into a set of aluminum angle system is made up of two main parts: a wood fence rails: a two-piece kont rail and a single back rail. for repeat cuts. the rails are also photo A. Once it's clamped in place.
CROSS SECTION .
7he Fence The "dyshaped b arm of the fence allows you to slide it all the way to the left to achieve a maximum cut. After the lip is cut. 3a.*~*a%&L2'm ~. a rabbet is cut on the edge of the blank. start by gluing up two pieces of .. see Fig. It forms block.. AUP. to prevent the pinch block (B) from twisting when it's screwed to the arm later. 3..:.) To determine the length of these blanks. see Fig.It consists The next step is to make the of three parts: an arm. and narTOW at the end to clear the throat of the band saw.= ShopNotes No.see Fig. To make the pinch block (B). Next. I cut a !4"-deep rabbet in the front of the arm to "lock" it in place.nowis the time to cut a slot in the arm. 1. 1and 2. see Figs. they're 179A"long. a pinch pineh block that fits in the rabbet you just cut. the rear "jaw" of the clamp that PINCH BLOCK rn holds the arm in place on t h e f i n t rail..)Aftertheglue dries. refer to Fig. measure the length (depth) of your band saw table and add 5". 2. i I started work by making the arm. cut the arm to shape and sand the edges smooth.If you're planning on adding the fence accessories shownonpage21.. see Fig.* -. to create a "lip" so the pinch block can ride on the front rail. Then rip this blank to match the width of the rabbet (I%"). 3 ? ACGESSORIE6 GLUE UP TWO LAYER6 OF %"-THICK STOCK 18 I. The heart ofthe band saw system is the fence. see Fig. trim the pinch block to match the width of the arm (5")and screw it in place. and a pressure block. la. see Fig.A~SO. il).. 3a. The a m (A) is made by gluing up two 5"-wide blanks of 3A"tbick stock. s m . . I&WBET. 2. 2. see Fig.A"-thick stock to make a long blank (about 8"). It's shaped like the letter "d"-wide at the front to provide alarge clampingsurface. (In my case. 8 . 3. see photo abave. see Fig... (I used maple.
see Fig. la. PRESSURE it pinches the guide rail and locks BLOCK the fence in place. refer to Fig. 6. la. 4. refer to Fig. I once again started with an extra-long blank. To complete the fence. After the groove is cut. the matching holes. SUPPORT . Cut this blank to match the combined height of the pinch see Fig.Then. see Fig.The tricky part is ASSEMEW. see Fig. To do this. I USE SHANK PACER END OF SPACER I 5 COUNTERSUNK FOR SCREW DRILLING HOLES SEE FIG. SHALLOW GROOVE. No. screwthepressureblockto sure block as a template to drill thearm and threadon the T-knob (or wing nut). Afcer the holes are getting the screw and bolt holes drilled. CLAMP. (For sources of hardware. block and arm (23AU). 4. a shallow groove is cut in one face of the pressure block. trim the block to match the width of the arm (K"). CARPET T/ PRE55URE B 1 .zF2. 8 ShopNotes 19 . refer to Fig. 1. see Fig. I drilled bled. Then I used the pres. 5. screw a round nylon spacer to the narrow end of the ann. see page 313 The bolt passes through the pressure block and pinch block. T o solve this problem. riage bolt into the pinch block. 1s. and chamfer $he outside corners. When the T-knob is tightened on the end of thebolt. the fence can be assemto align in both pieces. This spacer will ride on the back rail and support the fence when the a m doesn't rest directly on the saw table. To help concentrate clamping pressure on the front rail. 1 Since it's a short piece. The pressure block is attached to thk arm with two woodscrews. see Fig.a PRESSURE BLOCK El- All that's left is to add the v e s sure block (C).r$ WUUVSCREW GROOVE CHAMFER COFNERS NYLONSPACER. TEMPLATE. Clamping pressure is exerted by a carriage bolt and a T-knob (or a wing nut). drive the carholes in the pressure blockfirst. 4. 4.
CHANIFER CORNERS. see Fig. 7. AU you need to do is drill two oversized mounting holes and bolt it to the band saw table. 7. see Fig. 8. To mount the front rail. B A C RAIL. It bolts to the rear of the table to support the narrow end of the fence.see Fig. the only thing left is to add the back mil (F). I used a hacksaw to cut the rails from a single six foot length of angle (each piece is almost 24"long). MOUNT RAIL. three rail pieces are made kom 1%" x 1%"aluminurnangle(available at most hardware stores). The front rail consists of two pieces. 7. you'll need to drill them. 7. The pivot point is centered on the length of the rails. ALLMINUMANGLE. see Fig. And an adjustable rail (E) that pivots so you can adjust your fence to get a straight cut. workean begin on the rails: a two-piece front rail and a back rail. Next. see Fig. 7b. I drilled a series of holes and filed the slot smooth." With the fence complete. 7. * ' CLAMP TEMPLATE BETWEEN RAILS BEFORE DRILLING HOLES 20 ShopNotes No.) Theimportant thing is that you locate the rail soit's W below the top of the table. This ensures it won't interfere with the bar of your miter gauge. 7 and 7a. The solution is to clamp a spacer block between the rails. MARE S m . ~ Once the kont rail is bolted in place. see Fig. see Fig. SPACERBLOCg The tricky part is drilling the holes in both rail pieces so they align. A mounting rail (D)which attaches to the table of your band saw. (Note: If your band saw doesn't have these holes. A slot on one end allows you to adjust the rail and 'lock" it in position.An adjustable twopiece front rail and a single back rail provide support for fhe fence and allow you to compensate for "drift. 7. 8b. FRONT RAIL. 8 . These bolts thread into the pre-drilled holes in yourtable top. see Figs. to create the slot in the adjustable rail (E). file off the sharpexposed corners on the rail pieces. two oversized holes are drilled in the mounting rail (Dl for bolts. Then lay out and drill the holes. see Fig. see Fig. Fblly.
e CUTTWO IDENTICAL Jh"-THICK BLANKS RABBETS ARE CUT TO MATCH THICKNE55 OF B R A 5 5 22 ShopNotes No. or see page 31. And the bevel gauge shown here is the perfect opportunity to combine these materials to make your own fine tool. first cut two 3h"-thickblanks to match the width of your brass strips (1") and 53A"in length.E % L SlidingBevel Gauge How do you get a flawless fit between h s s and wood? All it takes is a swapwood jig and some simple techniques. To make the handle (A). 8 . Since brass can stain light colored woods when it's filed or sanded. Two traditional materials for making hand tools. I used walnut. AU you need are two small pieces of wood and a 1"-widebrass strip. (Brass is available at most hobby stores. see the boxes on following pages. see Fig. 1. see Drawing at left. B BOTTOM TRIM PLATE rass and wood. To get a fit like this requires some special techniques.) TmHllllME I started work on the bevel gauge by mak'mg the wood handle.) The challengingpart is getting an almost flawless fit between the brass and wood. (For more on this. But any dark hardwood will do.
The rabbets on the bottom end of each blank are 3A" long. . extend the strip past the this simple jig. I clamped it to a simple jig. Then a trim plate is marked fore you can cut the plates to out and cut to rough length. -. the next step is to fit the to. the shoulder of the rabbet. Then strip is flattened. AU the brass parts Cutting the pieces individually (includingthe trim plates) are cut from a single 12"long brass strip. I attached an auxiliary fence to the table saw. Then. see Drawing. Later. the brass strip needs to be the rough-sawn edge of the strip flattened. and the next one end of the strip is squared and cut to rough length. The only differenceistheir length (height). Then slide the entiye strip 'back and forth until it's flat. For a brass strip to fit tight in a rabbet.* RABBETS. see Fig. it has tube flat and square: The problem is they aren't manu€acturedthis ms see Detd. After these blanks are cut to size. see Fig.I use a simple jig. The depth of the rabbets is the same thickness as the brass strip (M6"). Instant glue isn't strong enough to hold the brass strip in place permanently. FLATI'EN FACE. 8 ShopNotes -- 23 . see Fig.slat&endsqw~a$iephotoi s w a r e d Wba sm&. to support the workpiece. see box below. FITTING THE PLATE. I FIRST: FLATTEN ONE I SECOND: FILE ONE END SQUARE FILE STRIP FLAT No. glue a piece of 120 grit silicon carbide sandpaper in the rabbet. to square Fitting brass to wood is easy with an end. Then. like this ensures that each trim The unusual thing is they're plate will fit tight against the not all cut at once. Then. Fust the brass end of the jig and clamp it.o (B) and NOTE: SQUARE ENDS AFTER EACH CUT bottom (C) trim plates in the rabbets. ' b flatten the brass. it will be filed flush with the end of the handle. It's jusl. 1. GLUE TRIM PLATE. shallow rabbets are cut on the ends to accept brass trim plates. see Fig. But the rabbets on top long. 3. But bebrass strip is first squared at one end.wift @!e. " I N S T A N T GLUE NOE: ALL BRASS PIECES ARE CUT FROM ONE12"-LONG STRIP TRIM PLATES Once the rabbets are cut. Then length. Later. is squared up again. I a 3. S Q U EDGE. are 1" To cut these rabbets. To solve this. ~ Next. one end using the end ofthe jig as aguide. a block of wood with a shallow d i & &ca%h it for the brass strip. I use "instant" glue to temporarily hold it in the rabbet. U e r the plate is cut to rough length. Instead. see box below. plate is cut. . it will be attached permanently with screws or rivets. 2.
To make sure the holes in both handle blanks align. (Note: Forstner bit to drill a counter. t i ~ m The . is to turn it by hand. see margin tip at left. 4a. f i a t step is to drill countersunk holes the same diameter as your hrass rod. . 4. carpet tape them together and then drill a "pocket" for the nut. 8 . it's threaded into a brass SPACm NOWYOU can begin acts as a stop for the mitered end nut. 7 - ShopNotes No. and Fig. . Since I didn't want the slots of the screw heads to show. This hole is for a brass machine screw (added later) that will help hold the blade in place... Then I filed the heads off flush with the brass strip. 4.* . see Fig. added later.eSy fill Me "draw" the handle pieces tight& countersinks. clearance for the blade that's To lock the machine screw in Then I epoxied the nut in place.. The spacer provides the blanks and remove the tape.. see photo at I& . The handle blanks are sepaV4"dia. The idea is to "mushroom" the Rivets made from brass rod ends so they com&t.of the blade. 6. 5a. 5.rated at the bottom by a spacer.) one of the blanks. To create a work on the other end of the han. hole. The next step is to drill a hole through the top trim plates and handle blanks. to lock the plates in w e . BRASS SCREW. . 24 . all the trim plates glued in place. see Fig. I countersunk the holes slightly so the slots are just above the brass strip. TOPPLATES.A simple way to keep a countersink bit from chattering. the next step is to attach the two 1"-longtop p l a t e s p e m nently to the handle blanks. 4. 4a. see Fig. I used a dle. Once the hole is drilled.. Each top trim plate (B) is screwed to a handle blank with two #2 x 1A" solid brass woodserews. : . e r m E t L . peen the rivets. see Fig. . AND PEEN TO FILL COUNTERSIh'"C F%EN RIVETS NOW. And the mitered end place. . see Fig. separate bored hole in the inside face of see Fig. see Fig.
btbp@*eb&> ShopNotes No. The solution is simple. see Fig. lock the pieces tightly together.v7cler gw&hW h W t.is . insert a thin spacer between the handle blanks.m&&ums. GLUE UP HANDLE. Then measure over 34'' and cut a 46" miter.6a. the bottom trim plates are filed flush with the bottom of the handle.mower.. Once both faces of the spacer were flat.To make the spaear (D). 6. b a + & W dit.tRrs w e wap %to ~ w b k W t % @ S a%.. you'll need to flatten both faces of the brass strip (you've already flattened one side). start by squaring up the end of the remaining length of brass strip.&iI. Now the bottom of the handle can be joined togetherpmnently. The ends of the rivets are "peened" over to ROUND OVERTOP END OF HANDLE DRILL COUNTERSUIUA HOLES A N D ADD RIVET5 To al~gn the top the handle. both ends of the handle can be shaped.a . - easy. a round-over is sanded on the top of the handle. I rivet the pieces together. insert a mach~ne screw as a simple indexing pin. m a drumsander in a W r w p 3qeB~mshg. see Fig. but $&kw8&i~. a t 2 2 .The Q~&W .d. A bb&disa m& ?.=@$- ~ &&l. . You can ~ ~ ~ ~ a s n o o & ~ @~W&~o&e&tf. You US^ % &$&* b shape bms. . RIVET HANDLE. Note: To prevent the "open" end from king. I glued it between the blanks and used a simple trick for alignment.&&@ @me. see Fig. After the spacer is cut to size.. What you have here is basically a "sandwich" of bmss and wood. F i s t . It takm %k& .%a& @. Now that the bottom of the handle is riveted together..w & Shaping the ends of the hand/@& w'f &sne&. To ensure the spacer will glue up tight between the handle blanks. %era.Be lrai. .brass rod (available at most hobby stores). it&. Finally. you'll need a different technique. 8 25 .Ehp sk@C TG. 4 &e kms.$mrnf# fi/e(as shown]. % B m t it remove stock too q&&y &@ damage your work. SHAPE HANDLE. &ie @ I O ~ muksW B .. 6b and the box below. nammmm I p a to. 6a and box on page 24. The rivets arejust short pieces of a"-dia. Since screws won't "draw" all the pieces together. see margin tip.up3. file the mitered edge smooth.&.
see Fig. 8 and margin tip at left. the last step is to countersink the hole in the handle to accept the brass machine screw.&ter the hrdes me drilled. A rouncF. For the blade to fit in the slot of the handle. After shaping and filing the handle. see Fig. I. When it's smooth. l insert the bit in a drill press and turn the chuck by hand. add the blade.usetwDfiles to. Finally. file tc zwmove as driling a sevies of non-over. the slot straight.smooth. and wing nut. see Fig.To countersink a large hole. 7. I use a simple process. FITBLADE. screw. (The technique I used is shownin the box below. then Fig. A brass machine screw will pass through this slot and lock the blade in place.. Since the end of this strip is already mitered (from cutting the spacer earlier).the "weV between thehoh. 26 ShopNotes No. the next step is to make the blade (E) &om the remaining brass strip. sLO~.all you have to do is file the miter smooth and round over the other end. ROUND OVER END TO MATCH HANDLE FILE MITERED END OF BLADE SMOOTH I NmE USE REMAINING BRASS STRIP TO MAKE BLADE CUT Va"-WIDE 5 L O l NO=: V4"x 1" BRA55 MACHINE SCREW COUNTERSINK HOLE 50 .sqe lapang hofes (as shown). see Pig. COUNTERSIN& With the blade complete. 7. And a flat mill Be ko B e f#mgthe slot . see box on page 27. FIUW. see Fig. 8 .After fitting the blade. 7. you'll need to flatten both faces (just like you did for the spacer). I.) The slot allows the blade to slide and pivot to any angle.eleanout.SCREW IS FLUSH WITH BRASS COUNTEKSlNK ON NUT SIDE INSERT BLADE AND ADD HARDWARE theb&mieat&anMtkbrass. to get a satin finish on the brass and wood. Cultingastot in brassis assimple the skok. a slot is cut in one end. 2. FINISH.
the % W~XOQ can b-awkrthe page . F W Finally. hold the bevel gauge in one hand and the workpiece in the other. SET ANGLE. 8 p~~ ShopNotes - 27 . Once you've set the angle ofthe gauge. A solution is to setthe project on apaper towel or cloth ~ o t Use c a kesh piece when you turn the projeet over so fiiings won't scratch the brass. see photo. see Fig. H Finishing brass to a soft luster is easy. 3. ~ to seal the wood and brass. ~ S ~ R A N G L E After . I sand with progressrvety finer grtts of sandpaper. Then adjust the blade to match the w~rkpiece. see Drawing.Using a Bevel Gauge a LAYING OUT AN ANGLE A sliding bevel gauge is frequently used to lay out an angle directly on a workpiece (such as a bevel or taper). Then bufi-with 0000 steel WOOL ~~TAL-GS. 2. TO set the gauge. see Fig. The only probl e m with sanding brass is it creates tiny metal filings that can scratch the project. APROTRACTOR.Just loosen the wing nut. see Fig. and lock it in place. I start with 120 cnit. It's just a matter of sanding with silicon carbide sandpa- i 1 ? To get a satin smooth finish on bath brass and wood. PAPER TOWELS. No.400 . position it on your workpiece and lay out the angle. set the blade to the desired angle. and go to 240.Qd&bfreU**-eJ &WF &a$k*&*mm"a. I per. 1. A quick and easy way to do this is to use a protractor.and 600. TO SET BEVEL A DUPLIGATMG AN ANGLE A bevel gauge is also handy when you need to cut a workpiece to match another. I wipe on a couple coats of tung oil. Then buff wih steel woo!.
the stones dry out. Many lumberyards and home centers offer slightly damaged solid-core doors in their scratch and dent department. But the floor in my shop is uneven and can throw the project out of square. And a top and bottom made of V4"-thickMasonite. b u t it's not as sturdy and wont stand up well under heavy loads. see Drawing. In addition.Shop Solutions I I have an older belt sander that " doesn't have a dust bag attachment. I use the shop floor when assembling larger projects. ShopNotes . I store my wet waterstones after eachuse inplastic'2ip-LocK'bags. So to speed up the time it takes to saturate a waterstone. that are II /LEAVE TOP L 2 Y z " d f~ A W OPENING I I 2 " 2 ~ II k spaced s/kMapart. But between use. the door protects my projects from getting scratched and nicked by the concrete floor. Jon daFlon Laberty. I lay a solid-coredoor on the floor. Missouri 28 -- No. To create the vacuum slot.s. see photo. This also allows the dust collector to serve as a stop to keep the workpiece in place while I'm run- ning the sander over it. The door provides a large. I made one of the top pieces oversized so it can be clamped to the end of my bench. To create a flat assembly area. Iowa Quick lips I Like many woodworkers. 8 1 . (I purchased a door locally for $10. the top is madein two pieces. Since the water can't evaporate. Before you glue the parts ofthe collector together. VACUUM SLOT. cut a hole in one of the ends to fit the nozzle on your vacuum hose. Harry Svee Ames.) Zack Stilwell Hudsolz.A narrow slot in the top of the collector allows the vacuum to pull dust out of the $ 1 : The slot creates a thin wall of suction that draws down the dust into the collector as it comes flying out of the back of the sander. Wisconsin Editor's Note: A Hollou-core door may cost less and be lighw.The dust collector is basically a box with 3A"thick sides and erui. see photo above. Waterstones need to be saturated in water to work properly. To help reduce the amount of dust in the shop. flat surface and when not in use I just lean it up against a wall. I built a"minin dust collector that clamps to my workbench and connects to my shop vacuum. it only takes a few second* to ready a stone for the next use. CONSTRUCTION.
1 the holes in the auxiliary fence. The problem is measuring between a r o d drill bit and aflat fence.) Moines. seeDrawing. and clamp the fence in place. New Y O T k . Locating a hole or a slot an exact distance away from the edge Drill Bit 5aacer I of a workpiece can be tricky. To avoid this.hem.Attn: Shop Somost office supply stores. I use a drill bit as a spacer.IA 50312. To solve this problem.~ 5aw G u a r d saws. I use plastic binders from t. Then place the spacer between the fence and the bit. I re- Bq Ember.to: ShpNote&. Montana 0.Just select a spacer that's the same diameter as the distance you're positioning the fence. Minnesota FROM EDGE OF -. Dennis Delvin New Brighton. 'the pulilished length. Send an ex$- P o r t Washington.
R i t e . That's because several different To find out more about how the WATERBASED FINISHES.Abrasive m Pads ne of the secrets to getting what gives the pad the flexibility of accidentally leaving behind a "sliver" that can rust when the asmooth f i s h on aproject to conform to imeguh shapes. One companies manufacture them inpads work. 0 - - 30 ShopNotes No. As you rub the pad across the ing pad. That's C o ~ o ~ c o D EIn n . Thk web is steel wool. is to "sandninbetween coats. each that are bonded into a "web" of the web are synthetic. H e said that the pads new waterbased finishes. I s c u f f . So it's like having a new pad pads. But recently I came across a hardware store. you're likely to see a varibehind like steel wool. While the color of the pad may vary. vou don't run the risk oads accordine to the erit. They're Abrasive pads don't clog u p like also available in several new product and decided to give it a try -abrasive sandpaper or leave tinu '$JiveysV tool catalogs. Bear-Tex or S d . And they with each stroke. the curved parts of the project. abrasive pads aren't For years I used sandpaper or workpiece.The web finish is applied. So unlike manufacturer "color codes" the interlockim fibers. To ensure you're getting the grit you want. This RESISTS CLOGGING.Regardless of with dried finish like where yon buy abrasive sandpaper or leave tiny "slivers" cles. I was impressed. And the finer grits work well in between coats of finish or as a "polishing"pad. addition to consist of small abrasive particles because the fibers that make up the difference in brands. der Sources on page 31. The coarse grits can be used for heavy-duty stripping jobs. I gave Mike Virgintino other advantage of the pads is cluding the 3 M Company. see Mail Orpads. they look caused by anything from dust in from loading up with dried finish. The result is a ety of brand names like Scotehwere flexible enough to mold to u n i f m surface that accepts the Brite. GRITS.pads I bought were hanging next to the sandpaper at the smooth out the finish. -bekind like steel wool. and Gerson. there's usually a steelwool equivalent in the product information. Norfrom the 3M Company a call. one thing you can be sure of is the pads range in grits from very coarse to extra fine. The problem is the coding isn't consistent from one company to the next. m s . For most finishing jobs. 8 . they're especially suitable to the ton. suspiciously like a kitchen scourthe air to bubbles in the Msh. eliminates any "nibs" that can be design also prevents the pads S O ~ C E SAlthough . next coat of finish evenly. see photo at left. the dried finish with a #O pad and then work up to a #00 pad before applying the next coat. The pads didn't clog up BRANDS. the fibers wear away found in the grocery store. The steel wool in between coats to and expose fresh abrasive parti.
and a spacer).. or Discover Gad readv. ha. We've also included the alumimake the Box Joint Jig. As far as we know... This system (shown on page 6) attaches to consists of two basic parts: a set your miter gauge and makes it of metal rails..) miter gauge slot.....Sources ShcpNotes Project Supplies is of...95 SLIDING BEVEL 6AUGE All you ueed to make the Sliding Bevel Gauge featured on page 22 is a small amount of wood and a few brass parts. The fence locks securely to the But what sets this jig apart front rail and can be fitted with a from other box joint jigs is how couple of handy accessories.95 ..... Constantine'e 8W-22?-€987 I WOatd 80&2414748 W225-1158 Augm B i t Ftle. Befort? miling... and a wood fence.Augm Bit P a . We used several pieces support when resawing. cludes all the hardware needed to washers. The 1"x 12" brass strip and the brass rod are available at most hobby stores. DiaAlnadee Pads. 56808-200 Band Saw Fence Hardware Kit . I KEYLESS CHUCK UPDATE In Shop Solutions(on page 29) we mentioned a keyless chuck(for a drill press) sold by Grizzly Imports. $17. in this issue. 56808-100 Box Joint Jig We've also put together alist of Hardware Kit ...&*4. P l ~ a s eall e each companyfor a catalog orfor orddryr in&mation. Hadware @Wandsh4. However if you can't find these parts locally.. S6808-300 Sliding Bevel Gauge Hardware Kit ...ueed to supply is the hardwood fering some of the hardware and and a small piece of 1/4"-thickMasupplies needed for the projects sonite. Augw maMINsedle Fdes Bit File.. easy to cut perfect-fitting box The special rail design allows joints on the table saw. bolts. 1 Similar hadware and supplies m a g be found in the followiryr catalogs...) All you need to supply is the wood to make the fence. 806221-2942 SCiM214S4a 519-255-8979 &thethemaibrder~oz%hot Auger BU F Z ~ ~ h z v pods e Am&e Pads.... see Mail Order Sources.$24. You'll receive three 24"long make the adjustable key.. & w ~ 7MndNeadle ~ a WBS ~ ~ 80M416537 ihdLh Chuck S 8 ~ HighlandJimdware m. $4. it's the only source for this type of chuck. ShqNotes Project Supplies is includes all the hardware to build offering a hardware kit that in..the fence (screws. We've even included the plastic star num angle needed to make the knobs and the metal plates to rails. All you pieces (two pieces for the adjustable front rail. ShopNotes Project Supplies is micro-adjustable system that lets you "dial in" perfect-fitting offering a hardware kit for the Band Saw Fence System.. The kit box joints. Leichtong The Woodsmlth Garrett Wade an& salesW.MasterOard.. knobs. one piece for the hack rail.95 other mail order sources that BAND SAW FENCE have the same or similar hardware and supplies.... and the correct size mounting bolts for attaching the rails to the band saw tahle. The . One sure way to improve the performance of your band saw is to BOX JOINT 516 add the Band Saw Fence System The shop-built Box Joint Jig shown on page 16..... Had. The brass screws and nuts can usually be found at a local hardware store.. One easily and accurately it can he is a tall auxiliary fence for added adjusted... nuts. @rift is the tenthe ShopNotes Router Table or dency for a band saw blade to pull any other router tahle that has a to one side when making a cut. of hardware to create a unique other is an adjustable stop block. ShopNotes Project Sup-plies is offering a kit that includes all the brass parts (not the wood) to make the Bevel Gauge. Note: The you to adjust the fence to comBox Joint Jig can also he used on pensate for drift. have your Ka-m-wm E P & W TheWbalworlrers' S t o r e 612-428-2199 H ~ ~ K n o B s ShopNotes ...
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