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Wine & Spirits, June 2013

Reviewed in Years Best Southern Italy: TENUTA DI FESSINA Il Musmeci Etna Rosso 2008 94 points Named for the Musmeci family, who farmed the Contrada Rovittelo Vineyard, sustaining vines that date back to 1920, this is a selection from the oldest vines at that site, 2,200 feet above sea level. Impressive for the precision of its tannins, the mouthwatering sea-air freshness of its acidity, this is a concentrated, potent wine that emphasizes elegance. The tarry scent unpacks into earthy detail, lasting on a cool zesty harmony.

TENUTA DI FESSINA Erse Etna Rosso 2009 92 points This blend nerello mascalese (80 percent) and nerello cappuccio from a vineyard planted in 1920. Its fermented and aged in stainless steel, though the tannins are powerful enough to create the richness oak aging might bring to the wine. The deep raspberry flavors feel supple, their juiciness held tight by mouthwatering acidity. A refined expression of Etna, approachable now if decanted.

TENUTA DI FESSINA A Puddara Etna Bianco 2010 92 points Founded in 2007, this estate is a partnership between two winemakers, Silvia Maestrelli and Federico Curtaz. Their carricante grows at a vineyard planted in 1970, those mature bush vines producing a bright, spicy white with clean flavors of nectarine. Its crisp and lithe, the texture enriched with the light feel of fresh cream.