MONDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2009
HVX MODS; How To Do It To it
Long, long ago, in a garage far, far away, a gaggle of VW mechanics gathered around a 1700 engine, which Volkswagen had brought out to replace the 1600. We were anxious to tear one down and see how you could improve on perfection. Actually, we were a kind of cheering section, giving the usual hi-fives and 'We're Numba Won!' as the autopsy progressed. Right off the bat we got a winner when we pulled the valve covers to get at the rocker arms because the rocker-arm shafts were grooved for lubrication channels. That means a mod some of us had been running for nearly ten years had now been blessed with the Holy Crescent Wrench of acceptance in all factorybuilt VW engines (ie, this was in the early 1970's). Then came a minor scuffle over the thermostat; missing as they usually are on so many Volkswagen engines, with some of our band of experts admitting they'd
never even seen one. In the HVX MODS you need to cut eight rather accurate grooves in the existing rocker-arm shaft and things were heating up between the How-Toz who were automotive machinists with twenty years of grease under their fingernails and the Street People, which included the Shade Tree experts, arguing first, that the 1600 and earlier engines didn't need them because they'd run just fine until now, and the Do-ItRight Group which included some pretty good wrenches who had followed the HVX logic but were arguing how to cut the required groove. Those who were machinists were holding out for a shaped carbide cutting tool, whereas the Lo Buck Warriors with a teenie-weanie 7x10" lathe and a bench-top drill-press were insisting an angle-head grider with a 1/16" blade did the job just fine.
As usual, tasks ultimately descend to the abilities of the craftsman rather than the tools, with several examples of guys who built race-winning engines with a very modest inventory of tools. With jobs such as
this the task often breaks down on how to hold the work... or how to hold the tools. In the photos you can see the rocker-arm shaft held in the three-jaw chuck of the lathe whilst the angle-head grinder is attached to the cross-feed by humungous rubber bands. Which is pretty smart. The grinder's speed is marginally controllable through the use of a 15A motor speed controller. This gives the machinist the ability to find a cutting speed that produces a clean, even cut without having the grinder try to climb the bar. The rubber bands provides the necessary amount of flex between the lathe and the grinder as each is brought up to speed, at which point the cross-feed is used to feed the tool -- the 3" dia. carbide disk spinning as fast
as 18,000 rpm -- into the work, producing a groove of the required shape, depth and width. (Click on the picture). The builder, Mike Sample, has built a Double Eagle and has now turned his obvious talents to making himself an engine. Or rather, engines. Unsatisfied with the first, which I judged to be of about Porsche quality, he has turned his hand to a second which I'm guessing will be equal to something with entwined R's on the cowling. Here's a shot of Mike's 'dirty' work surface - a section of marble counter-top. Next comes the grooving of the rockers and confirmation of their ability to flow oil through the Ford/Subie type adjusters. These swivel-foot adjusters date from the early 1960's when they were introduced by Ford of Germany. Additional pictures and some early HVX drawings will show how the lubricating oil wends its way from the oil pump, up the push rods, through the rocker arms and out of the adjustable rockers where it pools in the tops of the valve-spring retainers, to be thrown off, carrying with it a considerable quantity of heat whilest at the same time, reducing the wear of the rocker-arm shims. Off-road racers and hot-rodders have been using these mods since the mid-1960's but it came as a considerable surprise to find that many builders of Flying Volkswagens appeared to have never heard of them. -R.S.Hoover PS -- Some folks didn't like the look of the pix, worried that abrasives were getting into the lathe's guts & gearing. Personally, I've found that showing people what you set-up REALLY looks like generates more mail, asking if I've cut holes in a quilt and installed it over the tools. Basic rule with abrasives is to catch them before they can get to surfaces that can be damaged by them. The usual method is to lay-out shop-towels, overlapping, giving each layer a spray of kerosene (then) or WD40 (now) . By the time you get done, the shop has vanished from your How-To pix, leaving you with pix that look like you've set-up atop your bed. While these pix may not display reality, they have the advantage of showing the newbie how the parts are mounted in the tool and what tool(s) you are using. Nowadays, with the ready availability of tempered aluminum and small lathes that are accurate and affordable, it's as though our shops have shrunk. Covering it up with shop towels gives an even worse impression, in my opinion. - rsh
but only for the left-hand head. a hole that size should have provided more than enough oil.. leading to high temps and failed valve-train components. VW cuts a square groove in the bearing saddle for the #2 cam bearing.. The inadequate amount of lubrication reaching the heads resulted in excessive friction. (And still does. Volkswagen was aware of the valve-train lubrication problems and added a drilled oil channel to the rocker arms and a larger main oil gallery on later engines but the basic problem was that not enough oil was reaching the heads. left-hand is the 4 & 3 bank. And it did. The Ford Motor Company had recently published a study of the effects of oil filtration systems on engine wear and the results were so impressive that by the time you could say ‘Jack Robinson’ we’d retro-fitted our bugs with oil filters. but only when that particular valve is actuated.
To make matters worse. Which was fine for a stock 1200cc 36hp engine. But not for very long. All of the oil to the right-hand side of the engine gets there through that channel. In theory. which put you out of the race. but we’d already bored & stroked that puppy to nearly 1700cc and were running them at over 5000 rpm. seeing as the design dates back to Xavier Reimspiess’ original 1931 ‘boxer’ engine. especially the one on the right-hand side of the engine. And then. In effect.) To get oil to the right-hand head. the VW cam-followers act as a valve. (NOTE: VW orientation is always relative to the driver. the oil to the heads gets there via the cam-followers. Auditing the engine’s lubrication system we found that all of the oil for both heads came through a single 5mm drilling. shutting off the oil to the heads for approximately 92% of the time.) Its inadequacies became evident in the late 1950's when me and a few other fools started hot-rodding the things. if you haven’t modified the crankcase. But the main problem wasn't dirty oil but not enough oil. only at low rpm.The air-cooled Volkswagen engine doesn’t have a very good lubrication system. The right-hand head is the 1 & 2 cylinder bank. especially at high rpm. (Which isn’t surprising.
so we had to come up with a better oil-cooling scheme.. moving the oil cooler outside of the blower housing. To do that we tried opening up the oil channel in the cam-bearing web. which have a matching oil channel. too.. Which we did. but we were still seeing galling on the right-handrocker-arm shaft. Big. Heads ran much cooler. we could now provide the heads with approximately eight times as much oil as before.
.. on the right-hand case half we extended the oil gallery for the cam-followers to intersect with a new oil channel we drilled into the #3 cam bearing web. which meant the oil coming fromthe heads was hotter. BIG change.
To do that..To get an engine that could run flat-out for 24 hours we had to get more oil to the heads. What we needed was still more oil. Fitted with the Ford/Subie type swivel-foot adjusters. So we modified the cam-followers to allow oil to reach the heads 100% of the time instead of only when the valve was actuated. And lower head-temps. Majorimprovement. plus an occasional hair-pin fracture. we grooved the rocker-arm shafts to match the oil channels drilled into the rockers. That worked but we still weren’t getting eno
ugh juice. especially to the right-hand side of the engine. With that as a clue.
which act as spray-bars. (Most magazine 'technical' articles are nothing more than infomercials. Others would modify the lifters and say the same.All of which is pretty old news to anyone hanging out at the finish line. 100% oil flow through the lifters. such as an oil filter bracket or an oil cooler core. increased oil volume to the right-hand side of the crankcase. and the Ford/Subie-type swivel-foot adjusters. Bu
t a total blank to just about everyone else. were seen as just more of those ‘unimportant’ details professional engine-builders are always messing with. In fact.
. And still don’t. All of the fiddley bits that made the system work. intended to sell whatever product is being touted. The magazines were only interested in the mods when there was something tosell. But it’s interesting to note that Volkswagen included all of the modifications to the Type IV engine. But not one in a thousand incorporated all of the modifications. ) A key point here is that a high-output engine needs all of the modifications described above: 100% filtered oil. you can find them in every modern-day engine. Which is just another of those ‘unimportant’ details. such as drilling the new oil channels or grooving the rocker shafts. Some guys would modify the rockers and say they didn’t see any improvement. grooved rockers & rocker-arm shafts.
blogspot. especially to any experienced mechanic or automotive machinist because seeing oil galleries sealed with pipe plugs is a familiar sight to anyone who has worked on aircraft engines or big V8's.AV -. machining caused swarf to get into the oil galleries and it was impossible to clean them out unless you pulled the plugs. Not so with the shade-tree types. that a blast of compressed air is enough to clean everything up.com/2006/12/vw-pulling-plug. Why? According to Jack. So pulling the plugs becomes a standard part of building a high-performance engine based on VW after-market components. Which sounds perfectly logical. And about here it might be a good idea to go read.PULLING THE PLUG II
Back in the Day. And removing those plugs is a normal procedure in order to clean the oil galleries during overhaul. Lotsa folks still don’t pull the plugs. especially on a new crankcase. for whom pulling the plugs is another of those ‘unimportant’ details.. Their logic goes something like this: New crankcase has never had any oil in the galleries so there’s nothing for the swarf to cling to. your customers are happy and those mysteriousbearing failures become a thing of the past. http://bobhooversblog. send a VW crankcase to Jack Riddle’s shop (aka Riddle Machine Company or ‘RIMCO’) for an align-bore or other machine work and it would come back with the some of the gallery plugs pulled & threaded for pipe-plugs.html
. Your engines run sweet. which were included with the returned case..
sometimes with catastrophic results. Steve drills-out the offending plug whereas I pull it out . A long plug won’t cause a problem with the lifter galleries but even a partial blockage of oil to the reservoirs behind the #2 cam bearing shells guarantees the engine will have a short. After all. which was how the problem came to light.. http://www. In most cases the blockage wasn’t 100% and the #4 usually got enough oil for passenger-car service. one for the #4 bearing.. especially those who put the prop on the wrong end of the engine..Starting about 1997 professional engine-builders here in southern California be
gan seeing Brazilian crankcases in which the oil gallery for the #4 main bearing wasblocked by the factory-installed plug. two for the oil galleries feeding the lifters and one for the oil gallery going to the reservoir(s) behind #2 cam bearing shells.greatplainsas. my preference being 1/16-NPT pipe plugs.. I’ve never found a long plug anywhere except on the #4 gallery but other engine builders have said they’ve seen them installed at the other three locations. folks who routinely did not pull the plugs. But complaints were heard now & then from the dune-buggy set who came up with an Idiot-Fix: running a 7/32" drill down the oil gallery for #4. which back then was virtually everyone.com/service1.it was added when VW found the asymmetric load of the blower caused the pulley to oval-out the nose of the crankcase. the #4 main wasn’t a real main bearing . The VW engine uses four 5mm plugs.html Read both of the above articles and you’ll note significant differences in our methods. Sometimes it even worked :-) But it was a problem for flying Volkswagens.. unhappy life. since that single 5mm gallery is how oil gets to all
..along with three others of that size. Here’s what Steve Bennett has to say about the problem. Steve threads the bore to a
ccept a 1/8-NPT socket-head pipe-plug whereas I used whatever is available. Nor was it much of a problem to the dune-buggy crowd. Which wasn’t a problem because we routinely pulled the plugs.
Bob. to the heads.. I am following your instructionsand learning much.com
October 12. It appears to me that the idea has some merit.
Posted by Bob Hoover at 1:02 PM
buglover34465 said.) any thaughts to the idea? Buglover34465@gmail. I have a question as the longer plug to the #4 bearing is supposed to be a flow balancer/ restricter to the # 4 bearing so most of the oil goes to the crank/cam bearings. 2008 at 10:28:00 PM PDT
. ( I am at the jugs assembly point now. I have pulled the plug and tapped it according to your and several others instructions.. This is according to a forem on the samba.eight of the lifters and through them. I have done the HVX oiling mods.
mostly from ads in car magazines. hang a propeller on one end. Here’s why:
. an airframe on the other and go flying. haul them up to my shop.CRANKCASE BASICS
I was dismayed to learn that some folks having no Volkswagen engine experience have been buying components. In at least one case a fellow thought he could buy a bunch of parts. expecting to simply bolt things together. It simply doesn’t work that way.AV -. wave a lot of money at me and drive off with an assembled engine.
in the standard ‘case kit’ (about $20) you get the oil control pistons. your new crankcase can’t be used to build an engine from scratch because it is not complete. Indeed.
You can buy all the miss ing bits either in kits or per-each but if you’re building a flyingVolkswagen you’ll be pissing away a lot of money because the parts in the kits are specific to automobiles. Which goes straight into the trash because it weighs three ounces and one made of aluminum weighs barely half an ounce. You’ll also get a mild steel cover-plate for the big hole in the lower right corner of the sump where the dip-stick attaches on the Type III vehicles. There is no sump-plate or oil screen. no head stays (ie.’ These were originally provided only to VW dealers. For example. What’s missing are the things that make the crankcase specific to the vehicle Type and the model year. studs) and no nuts & washers for the studs that are there. A head-stud kit consists of the sixteen stays (in three lengths) that secure the heads to the crankcase. oft times one of the studs or nuts won’t have any threads and you end up having to beat the bushes for a replacement. along with the required washers & nuts. You’re expected to remove all that stuff from the original engine. springs and slotted cap-screws. Unfortunately. As received. Bottom line is that it generally costs less to ignore the kit and buy the parts onsey-twosey. where they were used for the repair of an existing engine whose crankcase has cracked due to age-hardening or collision damage. the one with a cracked crankcase. since any effort to have the retailer replace the kit is like pissing into the wind.When you buy a new crankcase what you’re actually purchasing is a ‘universal REPLACEMENT crankcase. no studs for the oil pump nor fuel pump. Ditto for most of the studs since you’ll be using drilled-hea
d bolts which you’ll have to procure and drill yourself. But for a flying Volkswagen you need a cap-screw you can safety-wire and an oil pressure relief spring that pops-off at 45psi instead of 27. you’ll often receive a head-stay kit clearly marked as
Here again. which means the crankcase must be machined to accept bigger jugs and. a
crankshaft hav ofwelding .
ing a longer throw. (I usta have all my head-stays cadmium plated but when the tree-huggers forced the local plating shop out of business I went to two-part epoxy paint. Most recently I’ve been using powder coating. And you can toss the ‘exhaust nuts. If you don’t. Flying Volkswagens tend to be larger.. (The good stuff is bronze. Before you can use them on any properly built engine they need to be plated. good for at least a week’s exposure to the weather. in some cases. Even on the stock
. The nuts and washers may have a wash of zinc plating. not only with the nuts rust to the studs.’ They are copper plated steel. you’ll see galvanic corrosion between the washers and the crankcase that will eventually cause the fastener to loosen. But the biggest problem is that your new crankcase is for a stock ‘1600' engine.
Even when you receive the proper head-stud kit.) Finally. there are kits available but most are the shoddiest stuff imaginable and price is no guarantee of quality. Or they may not. the things are bare metal.) Before you can use any of this crap on an engine you must provide it with some form of corrosion protection. you will need nuts and washers and bolts to fasten the case studs and parting-line.and done well enough to withstand twenty years of exposure. Plus it needs a critical bit
In the stock crankcase the spigot bore for the #3 cylinder is sort of hanging out in space. painted or coated .being for a single-port engine that turns out to have the four short stays for a dual-port.
so you have to dress the edges smooth by hand. extend the existing oil gallery and connect it to the #3 cam bearing saddle. Since decking the case moves the heads closer to the centerline of the engine.) If you’re installing anything in the distributor hole other than a plug you must also do the grub screw mod. If you’re going to install the oil temp sensor in the location used by Volkswagen you need to pull the 3/4" plug to the lower-right of the oil pump and thread it to accept a 1/2"-NPT x 1/8-NPT adapter. using a flapper wheel. Indeed. a ‘cracked #3' is one of the most common reasons for the existence of Universal Replacement Crankcases. Because of the normal variation in the size of after-market parts. files and #600 grit sand paper. Some engine-builders also thread the oil gallery leading from the oil
. Not only must you open up the spigot-bores to accept the larger barrels. If you’re running a full-flow oil filtration system (and you should) you tap the main oil gallery to accept a 3/8-NPT to AN8 (flare) adapter. It’s no longer a question of IF #3 will crack but simply ‘when. Machine the case to accept bigger jugs and you’ve made the situation worse by an order of magnitude.
Opening up the interior of the crankcase to accept a bigger crankshaft is called clearancingand while most shops use a humongous cutter to do the job at one go it leaves a lot of feather edges that are guaranteed to precipitate cracks. you must deck the case to provide a uniform sealing surface for the bigger barrels.’ To deal with that you preheat the new crankcase case and weld in a reenforcing plate using TIG.
meaning you’ll need to devote a couple of pre-assemblies to ea those procedures.engines this area is prone to cracking. This is when you also open up the oil channel behind the #2 & #3 cam bearings (which is how all of the oil gets to that side of the engine. resetting both the CR and geometry is best done by inspection.
A 94mm barrel will hit the threaded steel inserts that are standard on all new crankcases. The oil temp sensor then threads into the adapter. If you’re doing the HVX mods you need to pull the plug from the oil gallery on the right-hand side of the crankcase. it upsets both your valve-train geometry and your compression ratio.
. So hold your horses. they’ll sell you eight 1/8-NPT’s and shug. It’s up to you as the Mechanic in Charge of your engine to decide if you want to follow suit. And finally.pump to accept a 1/4-NPT pipe-plug. As with the ‘case kit’ You can buy a ‘plug kit’ but they don’t include the four 1/16-NPT’s you’ll need for the 5mm plugs. once all the machining is done and the case is cleaned and sealed up. push-rods and push-rod tubes also require a significant amount of preparation before they’re ready to be used.. it depends on where you’re located and how much of the work you can do yourself but at a guess. And having done all that. If you’re tooled-up to do the drilling & tapping you can cut the cost by as much as $200.) -------------------------------------------------So what’s all that going to cost you? Dollar wise. pistons & cylinders.. Here in southern California there are several good shops that do nothing but highperformance VW engines. In future posts I’ll show you how I do it . you can’t just blow it out with compressed air.Now you can scrub the bores and visually inspect them. If you’re going to run an external oil cooler you thread the oil cooler ports to accept pipe plugs. You are not building a dune-buggy engine. you can check for contamination by using a mirror down the bore of the valve) . if it’s a magnesium case you paint it.. You’re building an aircraft powerplant meant to deliver at least twenty years of reliable service. camshaft. 1/8. If you can’t get flat-black use gloss-black cut with a little naphtha. To clean them out you must pull all of the soft aluminum plugs (except the two small ones associated with the oil pressure valve. There are a couple of blind corners in the oil galleries that act as swarf-traps. that’s what they use in dune buggies. expect to pay between $150 and $400 over and above the cost of the crankcase. crankshaft. Use regular flat-black Rustoleum. it’s going to corrode. No. it’s time to clean the crankcase. And that’s just for the crankcase. The cylinder heads. Instead.and why. 1/4 and 3/8. (If it’s an aluminum case you apply Tech-Line Coatings ‘TLTD’ thermal dispersant then bake the thing in an oven not used for food preparation. After pulling the plugs you tap the oil galleries to accept socket-head aluminum pipe plugs of the appropriate size: 1/16. In other parts of the country I know of guys who have paid twice as much and gotten less for their money. Because if you don’t.
you’re looking at more than fifty years of continuous development and production. When it was introduced the Volkswagen engine violated many Conventional Wisdoms associated with automobile engine design. For example. which no one had back then. Way too expensive.. VW cams and lifters were cast iron and no one had come up with an accurate hardening process that was economical enough to be used for mass produced cast iron parts. Never work.Cam Hard = Chunkie Attacks
Failure to properly prep the cam is one of the most common methods of trashing an engine. Except an outfit called Krupp. unless you came up with some way to precisely control the hardness of your cams and lifters. each lobe of the cam actuates two cam followers. Not a lot of secrets in a stocker.. (Originally posted in 2003 after being rejected by the usual magazines :-) -----------------------------------------------------------------------------Stock VW engine. Conventional Wisdom insisted the four lobes on a VW wiggle stick would wear twice as fast as the eight lobes on all other four-banger cams. not for mass production. Oh.
. there was that new gaseous nitriding process but that only worked with steel. Ditto for that magnesium alloy crankcase. Which wasn’t always the case.
It’s no more difficult than. say.. To give you some idea what I’m talking about go see CAMHARD02. duplicating a process that has been in common use now for more than sixty years. --------------------One of the tricky bits on a VW cam is getting the hardness just right. steel or cast iron but one of the handiest heats the metal in an atmosphere of nitrogen gas. Today you simply look it up on a chart and set the dials to produce whatever hardness and depth is required. A brittle corner on a cam can be fatal to an engine. When hardening a part the corners are exposed to the heat & gas on two sides and tend to become harder than other areas of the part. Pretty good little engines. thanks to Krupp and Adolph Fry.. (You can get new replacement engines from the VW plant in Puebla.. Talk about the perfect abrasive! Microscopic fragments of diamond-hard material being chipped off and distributed around the inside of an engine. unless you can come up with a synthetic rubber that’s actually better than the real thing. Not a big problem nowadays. Same story for those crazy molded rubber parts in the torsion-bar suspension system. The corners approach the hardness of a diamond (seriously! Nitriding can produce a Mohs hardness of better than 9. they saw them as challenges and came up with an engine that remains in production today. Maybe some of that Buna stuff would work. how long it stays in the oven. (Yeah. (nowadays we call it Neoprene). Mexico.) Where the hell are there cornerson a cam!
. Professor Porsche and his gang of engineers didn’t see such things as limitations.. Hardening a cam is a bit tricker than most other hardening chores because
cams have lots of corners. Like that Dowmettal company. Corners on a cam? (Someone said. Just won’t work.) And if you liked the torsion bar suspension system on the original People’s Car you’ll find it still going strong under our main battle tank. [Diamond is a 10]). Nowadays there are lots of ways to harden the surface of iron.. the concentration of nitrogen inside the oven. programming your VCR.. But there it is :-)
For those of you not familiar with surface hardening. take a look at CAMHARD01. I know. how the part is cooled and so forth. The depth of the hardened surface can be controlled by the temperature to which the metal is raised.Unless you can come up with a better method of extracting magnesium from sea water. You can bet your bean-bag it caused the VW engineers more than few headaches before they figured it out.
Nitride a chilledcast surface. And if the tip is harder than the heel. But I don’t have to tell you that because you can see it for yourself. one shot is all is takes.
Figure 4 sh ows the pointy end of the lobe on an after-market cam. It also shows all those un-dressed edges. So we don’t let that happen. But you can clearly see the chamfering and. See the lower lobe in Figure 6? You can see that the chamfer is a bit smaller
. you can bet your bippie that the edges of the lobe’s nose are even harder still. Take another look at CAMHARD02. there it is again. (Look closely. the tip of the cam’s lobe has to be harder than its slopes or heel if you want the thing to wear at a slow rate. And with stuff approaching the hardness of a diamond.) The blank comes out of the mold with a chilled hardness that is nearly as good as nitriding (although not nearly so deep). That’s a picture of a typical after-market cam.See Figure 3. the drawing showing how the hardness penetrates the metal. the VW logo cast into the metal. something I pulled out from under the bench. by how much and the method most suitable for doing so. you end up with hardness well past 9 on the Mohs Scale and a virtual 100% guarantee of chipping those edges unless you do something about it. The tip of the lobs concentrates the heat during the hardening process in much the same fashion as does a corner. Look at Figure 6. Figure 5 is a stock VW cam. (Notice that the end of the stock cam is not as sharp. Even with a full-flow oil filter such debris still gets one shot at your oil pump. see the moldlines on the cam? (Remember. cams are just high-density cast iron. For comparison. You simply can’t allow fragments from those edges to get inside your engine. In fact. if you look real close. See that tiny notch near the nose?) Even. And neither did Volkswagen. worse. Those edges are so brittle that casual handling can cause them to chip like glass. That’s a used VW cam. See those nicely chamfered edges in Figure 5? That’s a stock Volkswagen cam. fresh back from nitriding. See all those nice sharpedges? That is where the metal turns a corner.) Note that all of the edges on the stock cam are nicely chamfered. This is normal for after-market parts. It is up to the person assembling the engine to determine which edges need to be chamfered.
there’s a picture of a lightly chamfered after-market cam lurking in Figure 7. -------------------Cams are made from cast iron because it is easy to grind to the required curves. The idea here is to keep abrasive debris out of your engine. After the lobes are ground.. it will chip like a piece of glass. Normally.than on the heel of the upper lobe. Standard automotive engineering practice is to ensure such debris is never allowed inside an engine. The result is a cam with lobes just hard enough so that the rate of wear for one cam-lobe is compatible with that of the distributed wear across the face of twocam-followers (i.at one time. In fact. the surface of a Volkswagen cam is hardened to a precise degree. you chamfer an after-market cam when you grind the notches that allow it
to work with a stroker crank. I suggest you cover the lobes and journals with masking tape before doing any grinding. as in trashing the cam.) No stroker? Then you can chamfer it any time you wish. The chamfer doesn’t have to be very big if all you want to do is get rid of the chunkies. Once the metal has
. But only if you let it. This results in uniform rate of wear allowing reliable long-term performance.) Just be sure to clean that sucker to within an inch of its life after doing any grinding on the thing. usually in a ‘dirty’ area of your shop. (Wider would be better. Grind on the cam (or anything else) then use the part without a perfect clean-up simply doesn’t make sense. Sure enough. I just whizzed this one up for the photo-op :-) If you’ve never clearanced a cam nor chamfered one. (It’s called dressing the edges and is a standard pre-assembly procedure with any after-market part. It’s not an operating theater but the assembly area should be cleaner than the average kitchen. When hardened debris passes through the oil pump. The process of surface hardening concentrates the harness along edges and thinner sections. By the time you have achieved the desired hardness in the middle of the piece any sharp edges will have been hardened to the point of brittleness. harden it to the point of brittleness. a chamfer of only thirty-thou or so is enough to make the edges of an after-market cam safe for society.e. you do all your grinding . That is. one slip of the grinder can screw the pooch in a major way. Cast iron has a granular structure.and clean-up . it will create a scratch or score. (Engines are always assembled in a clean area. the lifters rotate to distribute the wear).
Because when you build an engine. stoned or even polished. it will not heal. Or so I thought :-) Are you using an after-market cam? Did you clean it up and chamfer the edges? Gap your rings? Stone the edges? Balance everything? That’s your job. you’re the Mechanic in Charge. the more wear that will accumulate. The need for such attention to detail is understood by every competent mechanic.been scored. Throughout the engine. ------------------------There are no secrets in a VW engine. When building an engine. attending to all those ‘unimportant’ details the phony experts brush aside. rounded. ANY EDGE. you know. The more times such debris is allowed to pass through the pump. any edge capable of spawning debris is chamfered.
. The proof of that need and the practices required is clearly evident by simply examining a professionally built engine. as the case may be.