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Gq Styleguy

Gq Styleguy

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Published by ProfDrPepper
Style Guide from GQ
Style Guide from GQ

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Published by: ProfDrPepper on Jun 15, 2013
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11/16/2015

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from cuffs to khakis, glenn o‘brien that concern you most

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t h e o l d m a n i s r ig h t . I contend they are an obvious choice over the black-and-blue look.1 Pants 2 No Tanks Underwear Brown Shoes Blues > > I work with rather conservative dressers. Please help.t h ro u g h . out-ofshape dude with one showing through. I h a ve t h e s a m e re a c t i o n : Pu t yo u r s h i r t o n . i t i s we a r i n g l ig h t e r b row n s h o e s w i t h a n a v y s u i t t h a t i s w ro n g . > > I find tank-style undershirts much more ••• T h e re a re m a ny o l d e r m e n w h o w i l l g o t o t h e g ra ve b e l i e v i n g t h a t we a r i n g b ro w n s h o e s w i t h a n a v y s u i t i s m o ra l l y w ro n g . I think he looks pretty studly. What’s your opinion? • • • I d i s l i k e u n d e rs h i r t s s h o w i n g t h ro u g h a s h i r t . a n d yo u s h o u l d b e b a n n e d f ro m t h e exe c u t i ve wa s h ro o m . T h e re i s n o t h i n g w ro n g w i t h we a r i n g b l a c k s h o e s w i t h a n a v y s u i t . yo u a re o k a y. Is this a faux pas? When I see an older. But when I see a younger guy with a good build dressed this way. b u i l t yo u n g g u y. I f yo u r b ro w n s h o e s a re o f a d a r k n e s s a p p ro a c h i n g b l a c k . I f t h e y a re t a n n i s h . An older coworker and I disagree on whether my brown shoes are appropriate with a navy suit. U n d e r we a r s h o u l d b e fe l t . n o t s e e n o r h e a rd . A c t u a l l y. o u t . s i r. comfortable than T-shirts. O n e o f t h e v i r t u e s o f h e a v i e r fa b r i c s l i k e ox fo rd c l o t h i s t h a t t h e y ’re n o t s e e . w h e t h e r I s e e t h e u n d e rs h i r t o f a n o l d e r. A c t u a l l y. But they are inevitably going to show through a white or pastel-colored broadcloth dress shirt. A s k a ny a d m i ra l . I think it looks nerdy. Yo u r s h o e s s h o u l d b e a t l e a s t a s d a r k a s yo u r s u i t . Kilts make for a great—if brave—choice at black-tie functions.o f . .s h a p e d u d e o r t h a t o f a s t u d l y.

A n d w h o a re H a rr y a n d t h e H e n d e rs o n s? But seriously. Ex p l a i n t h a t yo u d o n o t wish to appear fe m i n i n e . a s i t m ig h t re s t r i c t a c c e s s t o h i s Wa l t h e r P P K . n e ve r l i s t e n t o yo u r f r i e n d s .b re a s t e d d i n n e r j a c k e t . B u t m a t c h i n g s o c k s w i t h yo u r s h o e s i s n ’ t s u c h a s m o o t h m ove . s i n c e t h e y d i s a p p e a r a g a i n s t t h e s h i r t . I am considering it. A s fo r b ra c e s : T h e y s h o u l d n ’ t b e v i s i b l e . t h e s o c k s c o u l d re f l e c t t h e c o l o r o f yo u r t i e . o r yo u ’ l l l o o k a s i f yo u h a ve b o o t e e s o n . I f yo u l i k e .3 Accessories 4 Bondage Formalwear Sock it to Me >> There seems to be an ongoing debate about whether socks should match shoes or slacks. yo u m ig h t h a ve t h e m re f l e c t t h e c o l o r o f yo u r s h i r t o r swe a t e r. >> I have it on good authority that it is now de rigueur for men to accoutre their dinner jackets with only braces. o f c o u rs e . . Please advise. a s m a ny m e n d o ( i n c l u d i n g t h e h e f t y. 5 Grooming Eyebrow Know-how >> I’ve heard the newest thing for guys to do is pluck or wax their eyebrows. If you don’t want your colleagues to mistake your beard for scruff. eye b rows a re n o l a ug h i n g m a tt e r. I p re fe r w h i t e . u n l e s s they make you loo k l i ke yo u h ave t h e o l d S ov i e t p o l i t b u ro g ene. I t w i l l m a k e yo u r b e a u t i fu l . n a v y w i t h n a v y. t h e re ’s a l wa ys t h e wa i s t c o a t o p t i o n . yo u c a n m a t c h yo u r s o c k s w i t h yo u r t ro u s e rs . I f yo u ’re g o i n g s p o r t y. and no cummerbund. a n d h e o r s h e w i l l undoubtedly g o ex t ra e a sy o n yo u . i f yo u re a l l y h a t e c u m m e r b u n d s . but does that apply only to certain color combinations? I wear khakis and black shoes with tan socks. preferably black. a s yo u ’re d o i n g . I believe GQ has said socks should match slacks. I f yo u ’re we a r i n g a s u i t . since my eyebrows look like Harry and the Hendersons. B y t h e wa y. h e we re we a r i n g a d o u b l e . A t l e a s t I wo n ’ t b e m i s t a k e n fo r a p r i e s t . I f yo u ’re g o i n g fo r a ve r y fo r m a l l o o k . O r t h e y c o u l d b e a n o t h e r c o l o r a l t o g e t h e r. m e re l y n o r m a l . but I don’t want my brows to look feminine. w h o s e c u m m e r b u n d s t e n d t o r i d e t h e u p s l o p e ) . grow it out during vacation. me n . T h e y a d d a l i t t l e s p a r k w h e n I ’m we a r i n g my b l a c k s u i t a n d a b l a c k s h i r t . yo u s h o u l d we a r b l a c k s o c k s w i t h a b l a c k s u i t . My friends say the socks should be black to match the shoes. • • • J a m e s B o n d wo u l d n ’ t b e c a u g h t d e a d ( o r e ve n t o r t u re d ) i n e ve n i n g d re s s w i t h o u t a c u m m e r b u n d . A m o n g my fa vo r i t e s a re my n a v y s o c k s w i t h small white polka dots and some black socks with small re d D e v i l h e a d s o n t h e m . ex p e n s i ve s h o e s m o re i nv i s i b l e . u n l e s s . Find a repu t a b l e s a l o n a n d h ave t h e a e st h e t i c i a n o r groomer reduce yo u r eye b rows . My boss thinks otherwise and has bet me a martini that Pierce Brosnan wears a cummerbund in The World Is Not Enough. What do you suggest? ••• I thought the n ewe st t h i n g fo r g u ys t o d o wa s r i d e o n top of elevators. B u t s o c k s c a n a l s o g o t h e i r ow n wa y. w h i c h wo u l d s e e m u n l i k e l y. a s l o n g a s i t m a t c h e s t h e re s t o f yo u r l o o k i n t o n a l i t y a n d s u b t l e t y. Can you clear this up? ••• M y a d v i c e i s .

which often pokes out of the top of my shirt. a n d t r i m .t r i m m i n g s c i s s o rs . because I take pride in being the only twentysomething in L. .s u i t s e a s o n . B u y yo u rs e l f a g o o d p a i r o f h a i rc u t t i n g o r m u s t a c h e . J u s t b e c a re fu l a ro u n d t h e n i p p l e s .A. maybe not fire.) I don’t really want to wax it. who still proudly sports chest hair. I d o t h i s a t t h e b e g i n n i n g o f e ve r y b a t h i n g . ••• T h e o n l y wa y t o t r i m c h e s t h a i r a n d l e a ve yo u rs e l f a n a t u ra l i s t i c re m n a n t i s t o u s e s c i s s o rs . No matter what your frat brothers say. but I’m not sure about the best way to do this. Scissors? Razor? Fire? (Well. not your privates. wax is for candles. I would like to trim this hair.6 Do-It-Yourself Breast Reduction Grooming >> I have chest hair that ends where my neck hair begins. G ra b a fe w f i n g e rs o f fu r.

• • • S e ve ra l a rg u m e n t s ? H a ve yo u c o n s i d e re d a c a re e r i n law? Oh. if the button wasn’t meant to be used. w h a t a b o u t yo u r n i p p l e s ? S e e w h a t I m e a n ? T h e y ’re n o t fu n c t i o n a l . How can I wear this “must-have” without looking like I mustn’t? >> What’s up with the bottom button of a ••• Fi rs t o f a l l . d o n ’ t g o t h e m a t c h i n g . w h i c h h a s a c e r t a i n Ve g a s é l a n . I g u e s s i t ’s o l d fa s h i o n e d . I t ’s t a c k i e r t h a n a m a t c h i n g . I know the type: “If God had intended that hole to b e e m p t y. a n d I b e t yo u ’d b e l i e ve t h a t .t i e . it wouldn’t be there. h e wo u l d n ’ t h a ve p u t a b u t t o n t h e re . S o m e t i m e s a b u t t o n i s j u s t d e c o ra t i o n .Every man should own a quality raincoat. but as far as I’m concerned. M y g ra n d p a s a i d t h o s e we re p u t t h e re s o yo u c a n ’ t w i p e yo u r r u n ny n o s e o n yo u r j a c k e t s l e e ve . j u s t l i k e I d i d w h e n I wa s 6. S e c o n d — a n d I k n o w I ’m p e r h a p s i n t h e m i n o r i t y h e re — I n e ve r we a r a p i e c e o f fa b r i c i n my b re a s t p o c k e t i n t o w h i c h I wo u l d n o t b l o w my n o s e o r t h a t I wo u l d n o t h a n d t o a c r y i n g p e rs o n . . s i r. three-button suit? I have recently gotten in several arguments because I insist on buttoning my bottom button. but every time I attempt to wear one. ” B u t t h e n . 7 Accessories 8 Trust Me Suits Pocket L7 >> I read somewhere that pocket squares are where it’s at. T h a t d o e s n ’ t m e a n i t h a s t o b e b o r i n g .t i e c o m b o . w h i c h d o h a ve a c e r t a i n s q u a re sv i l l e n e s s t o t h e m .a n d . a n d o t h e r d e c o ra t i ve e l e m e n t s i n h a n k i e s . T h e y ’re l i k e t h e b u t t o n s o n yo u r s u i t s l e e ve s . Yo u c a n f i n d c o l o rs . p e rc h a n c e n e ve r t o s e e i t a g a i n . Where you wear it is up to you. b u t t h e u t i l i t y o f t h e c o t t o n o r l i n e n h a n k i e a p p e a l s t o m e . a n d I t h i n k t h e y ’re fa r c o o l e r t h a n s i l k s q u a re s . s t r i p e s . I end up looking like a bad combination of the Joker and Robert Goulet.s q u a re ro u t e . Maybe I missed this lesson.a n d .s h i r t .

I wa s we a r i n g o n e o f my fa vo r i t e p a i rs o f f l a t . M a ny t ra d i t i o n a l . w i t h t h e exc e p t i o n o f e ve n i n g t ro u s e rs . I always have this bulge of shirt just above the belt. and I couldn’t decide. Do you wear pleats? Do you prefer pleats? Which style of pants do you find more aesthetically appealing? FYI. Yo u m a y s t i l l ex p e r i e n c e s o m e b l o u s i n g .f ro n t t ro u s e rs . and I have just realized I don’t know how to tuck in a shirt without looking like a fat slob. fluffy pleats are an epidemic in Philadelphia. M a y b e yo u s h o u l d t r y Eu ro p e a n s h i r t s . O r h a ve yo u r s h i r t a l t e re d w h e re yo u b u y i t . o r I v y Le a g u e . b e c a re fu l n o t t o d i s t u r b t h e s h i r t t a i l . I t h i n k t h e re a l p ro b l e m i s b a g g y p a n t s . ( C u f fs s h o u l d a l s o b e e m p t i e d a f t e r a ro u n d o f g o l f. T h e y we re t h e b ig c ra z e o f 1 8 9 3. Tr y t a p e re d . o r w h a t t h e B r i t s c a l l t u r n u p s ( n o t t u r n i p s ) . A s k t o s e e t h e i r p ro d u c t . W h e n yo u ’re c l o s i n g t h e m . T h e c o m m o n w i s d o m i s t h a t s h o r t m e n l o o k t a l l e r w i t h o u t c u f fs . w h i c h t e n d t o b e s l i m m e r c u t . 11 Pants • • • Pu t yo u r s h i r t o n f i rs t . o f c o u rs e . a s t h e y o f t e n c a t c h fa l l i n g l o o s e c h a n g e . w h o we re i m i t a t i n g a n ex t re m e l y fa s h i o n a b l e g e n t w h o t u r n e d h i s t ro u s e rs u p o n a ra i ny d a y . a n d b u s t e d o u t t h e b a c k s e a m . I f t h e y t e l l . a l m o s t i nv i s i b l e p l e a t s t h a t a re t h e re fo r p u re l y p ra c t i c a l re a s o n s . A n d a s k t h e m w h o t h e i r c l i e n t s a re . D i s c re e t p l e a t s o n t ro u s e rs w i t h p ro p e r l y s i z e d l e g s a re n o t o f fe n s i ve . my tailor asked me if I wanted them. Pleats Help >> My colleagues and I are debating the aesthetic attributes of pleats. S o m e l a b e l s a c t u a l l y o f fe r t wo s h i r t s t y l e s : fu l l a n d t a p e re d . M o s t m e n d o n ’ t re a l i z e t h i s . a n d t h e y ’re fu n c t i o n a l . A m e r i c a n s h i r t s a re c u t ve r y fu l l i n t h e t o rs o . l e t ’s b l a m e Pa t R i l e y.z o o t b a g s t h a t re fu s e t o d i s a p p e a r ? U n t i l we f i n d o u t . b u t a d e p a r t m e n t o r s p e c i a l t y s t o re w i l l u s u a l l y a l t e r m e n ’s s h i r t s fo r a n o m i n a l fe e . How would I know if the guy is a true gentlemen’s tailor or if he’s just full of hot air? >> When I wear button-down shirts with slacks. . b u t i t ’s s t r i c t l y a m a t t e r o f p e rs o n a l t a s t e .f ro n t p a n t s t h e o t h e r d a y. yo u k n ow t h e y a re i n d i s c re e t . I t h i n k c u f fs l o o k g o o d . 12 Cuff Luck Pants ••• I we a r b o t h p l e a t e d a n d f l a t . I am 30 years old and trim. ••• B y t h e i r wo r k s ye s h a l l k n o w t h e m . t h e n yo u r t ro u s e rs . Is there a certain style of trousers that looks better with cuffs? • • • C u f fs .9 Grooming 10 Nip Tuck Shirts Is That a Royal Warrant in Your Pocket or Are You Glad to See Me? >> I’ve been looking around for the best tailor for a bespoke suit. w h i c h a re a l ways wo r n w i t h o u t c u f fs . Help. b u t t h i s i s n o r m a l a n d u n a vo i d a b l e — u n l e s s yo u h a ve a we i rd K ra z y G l u e fe t i s h . f l a t f ro n t s a re fa s h i o n a b l e . a re a fa i r l y re c e n t d e ve l o p m e n t i n m e n ’s fa s h i o n . b u t I d o n ’ t t h i n k p l e a t s a re d e a d . M o s t o f my s u i t s h a ve ve r y s i m p l e .d o w n s h i r t s . To d a y. h o p p e d i n t o a c a b . W h o i s t o b l a m e fo r t h e n e o . M y w i fe e n c o u ra g e s m e t o s t i c k t o f l a t f ro n t s . o r ig i n a t i n g a m o n g t h e m o re fa s h i o n a b l e m e m b e rs o f t h e B r i t i s h H o u s e o f C o m m o n s . I d o n ’ t t h i n k a nyo n e re a l l y t h i n k s t h e y ’re a n a e s t h e t i c e n h a n c e m e n t . ) C u f fs a re o p t i o n a l a n d c o r re c t o n m e n ’s t ro u s e rs . >> Is it more stylish or less stylish to have cuffs on trousers? Recently. A n d t h a t ’s w hy we h a ve p l e a t s . a n d m o s t m e n ’s d e s ig n e r t ro u s e rs a re ve r y t r i m a n d ’ 6 0 s l o o k i n g . Yo u m e n t i o n e d b u t t o n . P l e a t s g i ve yo u a l i t t l e m o re ro o m .

a n d s o o n t h e l o o k wa s t h e ra g e i n wo m e n ’s fa s h i o n . . What really caught my attention. P i t t i s s p o r t i n g a re wa n t o n l y u n fa s t e n e d Fre n c h c u f fs . N ow i t i s s n e a k i n g ove r t o o u r s i d e . Ka t e M o s s a n d o t h e r g a m i n e s l o o k e d p a r t i c u l a r l y wa i f i s h i n u n d o n e Fre n c h c u f fs w i t h s h i r t t a i l o u t . N o t t o m e n t i o n t h e fa c t t h a t i t ’s m u c h h a rd e r t o f i n d yo u r h a n d s . Brad Pitt sports various long-sleeve shirts with the cuffs unbuttoned. was that Pitt’s shirts had cuffs that appeared to be at least twice the length of a standard shirt cuff. What was he wearing? ••• I b e l i e ve t h a t w h a t t h e s p i f f y M r. however. n o t o n l y b e c a u s e i t ’s h a rd t o c o nv i n c e p e o p l e yo u d i d i t b e fo re B ra d P i t t b u t a l s o b e c a u s e s o m e p e o p l e m ig h t t h i n k yo u fo rg o t yo u r c u f f l i n k s . Attempting to remove shoulder pads from a suit is a dicey endeavor. I a d v i s e c a u t i o n .13 The Missing Link Shirts >>In Ocean’s Eleven.

M y t a i l o r. I d o n ’ t h a ve b e l t l o o p s . I f yo u h a ve n o a l t e r n a t i ve .t i m e s o c k we a re r.b u t t o n . ” A s u p p re s s e d wa i s t i s w h a t i t s o u n d s l i k e : a B r i t i s h c u t w h e re t h e j a c k e t h u g s t h e b o d y a ro u n d t h e wa i s t . I a s k e d G Q ’ s fa s h i o n d i re c t o r. t e l l s m e t h a t t h e c l o s e r . not work boots and gardening gloves. i t ’s a c o o l .u p j o c k s o n E S P N t o Wa l l S t re e t t ra d e rs o n t h e s u b wa y. A g o o d t a i l o r c a n p ro b a b l y re p l a c e yo u r b e l t l o o p s w i t h s i d e t a b s fo r a n o m i n a l fe e . i t ’s g u i l t l e s s t o g o s o c k l e s s . I t ’ l l h o l d yo u r p a n t s u p . b u t w h e n that bell rings. J o h n Pe a rs e .b u t t o n h a s b e c o m e a l m o s t u n i ve rs a l . 16 Suits Pushing Your Buttons >> I told a salesman today that I was looking for a two-button suit. b a by. and he said. .fo r wa rd . S o m e g u ys . yo u c a n f l i n g ’e m i n t h e b a c k o f t h e A s t o n M a r t i n . re a l fa s h i o n h o u n d s s e e m h e a d e d b a c k t o t h e t wo . “Why do you want a two-button suit? You’re young!” Is twobutton an older or mostly professional look? Oh yeah. c o n t e m p o ra r y wa y t o d re s s . W h a t ’s u n s a n i t a r y ? Yo u r fe e t ? Yo u r s h o e s ? S o c k s h e l p a b s o r b m o i s t u re . b e c a u s e t h e t h re e . and my mother always said wearing khakis and loafers without socks was completely acceptable. We a t h e r p e r m i t t i n g . p a r t i c u l a r l y t h e h ig h . we a r a b e l t . ••• A s a n e a r l y fu l l . a re a l l o w i n g t h e i r h i p s o r b u t t t o s u p p o r t t h e t ro u .a n d t h re e . T h i s o n e ex p o s e d h i m s e l f a s a fa s h i o n v i c t i m o f t h e m o s t u n fo r t u n a t e s o r t . I ’m s t i l l w i t h yo u . B o t h t wo . f ro m t h e b u t t o n e d . i s p e rc e i ve d a s m o re fa s h i o n . S i n c e I h a ve n o t b e e n r u nway .c l o s i n g ve rs i o n . o r re m ove yo u r b e l t l o o p s a n d i n s t a l l b u t t o n s fo r s u s p e n d e rs . B u t i n fa c t . a t t e m p t i n g t o l e a d l a v i d a l ow . What are your thoughts? ••• I n e ve r we a r a b e l t w i t h a s u i t . M y t ro u s e rs a re h e l d u p by a d j u s t a b l e s i d e t a b s .s i d e re c e n t l y. M a d e l i n e We e k s .b u t t o n s u i t s a re c o m p l e t e l y a c c e p t a b l e fo r m e n o f a l l a g e s . I wo u l d a d v i s e we a r i n g s o c ks fo r c a s u a l b u s i n e s s d re s s . S o m e t i m e s t h e t h re e b u t t o n s u i t . t h a t V fo r m e d by t h e l a p e l s . T h e re ’s fa r t o o m u c h b u t t c ra c k o u t t h e re o n t h e s t re e t s .b u t t o n . w h i c h p rov i d e a re a s o n a b l e a m o u n t o f a d j u s t m e n t t o a l l ow fo r s e a s o n a l fe a s t i n g a n d fa s t i n g . I come from an affluent family. b u t s o d o e s p o w d e r. w h i c h fa l l s s t ra ig h t d o w n f ro m t h e a r m p i t t o t h e h e m . T h e n e r ve o f s o m e s a l e s m e n . a n d s h e c o n f i r m e d i t : “ I t g i ve s s u c h a n i c e l i n e . a s o p p o s e d t o t h e A m e r i c a n “ t ra d ” s a c k s u i t .f i t t i n g E n g l i s h s t y l e i s t h e re s u l t o f t h e m o t h e r c o u n t r y ’s l a c k o f c e n t ra l h e a t i n g . W h a t e ve r c a u s e d i t .14 Suits 15 Accessories Trouser in Suspense >> What’s this thing with guys not wearing belts with their suits these days? Is this a good look? Footloose >> I’ve been taunted for wearing my loafers without socks. w h i c h i s s l o p py a n d n o t ve r y g o o d e n g i n e e r i n g . a b o u t t h e re s u rg e n c e o f t h e t wo .r i s e l o c a . and what’s a “suppressed waist”? ••• Garden parties call for summery attire.

b u t t h i s s h i r t i s fo r s h i r t s l e e ve we a r a ny wa y. and unfortunately Levi’s 501s don’t fit me so well. T h e b u t t o n .17 Shirts 18 Pants Arms and the Man >> I work at a law firm. t u xe d o s . an essential piece that should be in every closet? Well. w h a t w i t h H e l m u t La n g d i s a p p e a r i n g f ro m t h e s c e n e . I f i n d t h a t c l a s s i c s h o r t .ro o m g u ys a t C a p e C a n a ve ra l s p o r t e d t h e m . but they don’t seem to go with slacks. w h e n a l l t h e c o n t ro l .s l e e ve s e e rs u c k e r b u t t o n . possibly with a tie change. ••• O n e o f t h e b e s t t re n d s i n re c e n t ye a rs i s t h e re t u r n o f t h e c l a s s i c s h o r t . I just want basic straight-leg jeans.d o w n s . What can I do to keep cool and look good when it’s hot? Denim Distress >> What do you do for jeans? I’ve been trying to buy some lately. • • • I t ’s g e t t i n g t o u g h e r n o w. a n d l o . What do you think? ••• A c l a s s i c b l u e b l a z e r w i l l g e t yo u a l o n g wa y w h e n yo u ’re u n d e r 2 1 o r l i ve i n t h e s u b u r b s .s l e e ve s h i r t . t h e re t h e y we re a t t h e t i m e l e s s p re p s t e r e m p o r i u m J. u n d e s ig n e r fa s h i o n . S o yo u a re b o t h r ig h t . a n d s e m i fo r m a l i s t a k e n t o m e a n d a r k s u i t a n d ( h o p e fu l l y ) t i e . I f i n d t h e m c o o l i n t h e i r n a t u ra l l y wo r n . a super-low waist. p e r h a p s b e c a u s e t h e y p rov i d e d n o o u t l e t fo r c u f f l i n k s . b u t I t h i n k i t ’s q u i t e a c c e p t a b l e i n a s u m m e r c a s u a l wo r k e nv i ro n m e n t a n d fa r b e t t e r t h a n a p o l o s h i r t . e ve n i n w h i t e — a s h i r t I h a ve l ove d e ve r s i n c e t h e e a r l y d a ys o f N A S A . She said that black-tie events are semiformal and white-tie events are formal. i n a s e n s e . fo r m a l i s g e n e ra l l y t a k e n t o m e a n t u x . t h e y we re p ra c t i c a l l y ex t i n c t . e ve n i f yo u h a ve a s l i m p hys i q u e a n d n o t t h e u s u a l p l u m b e r ’s b u t t . b l u e j e a n s we re i nve n t e d fo r wo r k e rs . ) H a p p i l y. but every pair I see seems to have grommets on the crotch. m o re s o t h a n i t s fu l l . w h i c h c a n g o f ro m a we d d i n g t o a t r i a l t o a c o n fe re n c e t o a fu n e ra l t o a h o t date. I could see how white-tie events are more formal than black-tie events.s l e e ve c o u n t e r p a r t . A n d l e t u s n o t fo rg e t t h e j e a n s t h a t t h e re a l c o w b oys we a r : W ra n g l e rs . Could you clear this up? Sine Qua Non >> You know how women have the little black dress. I n t h e ’ 9 0 s . a n d s e m i fo r m a l d i d i n d e e d re fe r t o d i n n e r c l o t h e s . and during the colder months I wear flat-front slacks (never khakis) and button-down shirts. P re s s .d ow n ve rs i o n i s b e s t fo r b u s i n e s s . but I disagreed that black-tie events are semiformal.d o w n i s o n t h e c a s u a l s i d e o f b u s i n e s s c a s u a l . d e s ig n e r j e a n s m e a n j e a n s t h a t s h o w yo u r a s s c ra c k . I c a n ’ t i m a g i n e w hy. weird back pockets. a n d s e n s i b l e p r i c e . • • • I n o u r g l o r i o u s l y d re s s e d p a s t .we ig h t g ra y s u i t . a l a s a n d t o t a l l y a l a c k . and flared legs. what is the men’s essential? I say a classic blue blazer. In warm weather. B u t re m e m b e r. s o w hy n o t g e t wo r k i n g m a n ’s j e a n s ? I we a r C a r h a r t t j e a n s a n d d ig t h e u n a d o r n e d u t i l i t y. b u t fo r ye a rs i t wa s ve r y h a rd t o f i n d g o o d o n e s . t h e l i ve s o f m a ny m e n i n c l u d e d a va r i e t y o f e ve n t s t o w h i c h b l a c k t i e a n d w h i t e t i e we re wo r n . a n d o t h e r fo r m s o f b l a c k t i e . . I n c re a s i n g l y. I tend to wear polo shirts. a l t h o u g h yo u r f i a n c é e i s c o r re c t i n t h e b e s t o f a l l p o s s i b l e wo r l d s . T h e s h o r t . t h e s p re a d c o l l a r s t y l e s h ow s t o o m u c h m a n l y d é c o l l e t a g e . fo r m a l d i d i n d e e d re fe r t o w h i t e t i e a n d t a i l s . M y o n l y p rov i s o i s t h a t s h o r t s l e e ve s d o n ’ t wo r k u n d e r a s u i t c o a t o r s p o r t j a c k e t . 20 Formalwear 19 Wardrobe Formalities >> My fiancée and I were discussing our wedding and got into a dispute.s l e e ve s h i r t s a re n ow w i d e l y a va i l a b l e . I c o m p l a i n e d o f n o t b e i n g a b l e t o f i n d my o l d fa vo r i t e s h o r t . ( O r m a y b e e ve r yo n e wa s h i d i n g n e e d l e m a r k s . T h e re a l e s s e n t i a l i s a m e d i u m . T h e y r i s e h ig h e n o u g h t h a t yo u wo n ’ t l o s e ’e m i f t h ro w n by a b u l l . T h ro u g h m o s t o f t h e p a s t c e n t u r y. N o w. g o o d q u a l i t y. R e c e n t l y.s l e e ve b u t t o n . R a l p h N a d e r m a y n o t a g re e .

b u t m a ny d o n o t . c h e c k o u t o l d Le t t e r m a n s h ow s . d a r k s u i t j a c k e t w i t h a p a i r o f j e a n s . hoping a higher volume of hair will hide the spots of scalp. s u c h a s c o rd u roys o r t we e d s . a re b e t t e r c a n d i d a t e s fo r m o o n l ig h t i n g a s s e p a ra t e s t h a n p i n s t r i p e d o n e s a re . • • • T h e re a l d i f fe re n c e i s t h a t a s u i t j a c k e t c o m e s with a pair of matching pants.21 Grooming 22 Suits Damage-Control Hairstyles >> When losing his hair. Three-season suits are great. s t y l i s h a c t o rs a n d fa s h i o n d e s ig n e rs fa vo r we a r i n g a s l i m . t h e s h o r t e r t h e h a i r. D a ve t r i e d t o we a r g l e n p l a i d s u i t j a c k e t s w i t h o d d t ro u s e rs fo r a l o n g t i m e b e fo re k i c k i n g t h e h a b i t . but not in the dead of winter. T h e g o o d t h i n g a b o u t l o o k i n g l i k e a t h u g i s t h a t c o n fu s e d h o m o p h o b e s w i l l h e s i t a t e t o re m a r k o n yo u r a p p e a ra n c e . risking looking either gay or like a thug? Separate Anxiety >> What is the difference between a blazer (or sport coat) and a suit jacket? Can you ever wear a suit jacket in place of a blazer? ••• A s a r u l e . Lo t s o f yo u n g . or (c) crop it short. should a man (a) keep it longish. M o re c a s u a l s u i t j a c k e t s . . Some suit jackets lend t h e m s e l ve s t o i n d e p e n d e n t we a r. fe a r i n g yo u w i l l i m p o s e s t re e t j u s t i c e o n t h e i r s o r r y t u s h i e s . t h e l e s s o b v i o u s t h e h a i r l o s s . I h a ve wo r n my h a i r c ro p p e d s h o r t fo r ye a rs . Invest in one made from heavyweight wool or worsted flannel. I o f t e n we a r a n a v y b l u e s u i t j a c k e t a s a b l a z e r. I h a ve n o t i c e d t h a t a l l o f my b a l d i n g f r i e n d s w h o h a ve a d o p t e d my s t y l e l o o k yo u n g e r a n d l e s s n o t i c e a b l y b a l d i n g . Fo r c o r ro b o ra t i n g e v i d e n c e . (b) keep it tidy and ignore the people who glance at his growing forehead. a n d a l t h o u g h I h a ve n ’ t l o s t a ny h a i r.

. Tr y t h i n . One can find out about t h e m f ro m s e ve ra l We b s i t e s : N ys a l e . S e e t h e i r We b s i t e s . o r La z a r m e d i a . I ’m u n d e r s i x fe e t . because it is so long that it makes my legs look short.t h e .s t r i p e s i s a p rove n c o o l l o o k .23 Wardrobe 24 Suits Cheap Chic have little cash with which to run to New York and hit the fashion stores. o r yo u c a n wa l k i n t o a d e s ig n e r ’s s t o re a n d d e m a n d a h u g e d i s c o u n t . i f i t wo r k s fo r yo u r b o d y. but I ••• T h e re ’s a l wa ys e B a y. and everyone told me it was wrong to mix a striped shirt with a striped suit. I have very long arms and was wondering if I could have the jacket shortened (half an inch to an inch).s t r i p e s h i r t s w i t h yo u r c h a l k . c o m .c o n s c i o u s m e n a n d wo m e n i s t h a t t h e y a b s o l u t e l y h a t e p a y i n g fu l l p r i c e . b u t a t r i p t o N e w Yo r k m ig h t a c t u a l l y b e wo r t h i t i f yo u h a ve s o m e b u d g e t . N y m e t ro . Is there any way for the average college student to look GQ without paying the high price? Reach for the Thigh > > I read that a jacket’s hem should just reach your cupped palm. a t l e a s t u n t i l yo u h a ve a fe e l fo r t h e l o o k . h o we ve r. getting “huge” doesn’t do much for a suit’s fit. yo u h a ve t o b e c o m e a r i c h c e l e b r i t y. S o m e fe l l o w s l i k e t h e i r j a c k e t s s h o r t e r. a n d yo u should look quite smart. c o m . ) T h e o t h e r s e c re t o f t h e h i p c h e a p s k a t e i s t h e s a m p l e s a l e . ( Lo e h m a n n ’s a n d t h e B o s t o n . S t o re s l i k e C e n t u r y 2 1. A l m o s t e ve r y d e s ig n e r h a s re g u l a r s a m p l e sales to get rid of seasonal goods. Lo e h m a n n ’s a n d Fi l e n e ’s B a s e m e n t o f fe r l a rg e d i s c o u n t s o n s o m e ve r y d e s i ra b l e m e rc h a n d i s e . b u t I t a k e a 4 2 l o n g i n s o m e o f f .o n . re g u l a r. 25 Suits Stripes Yipes >> I have a brand-new charcoal gray chalkstripe suit. I ’m o n e o f t h e m . S h o r t e n i n g a j a c k e t i s m a j o r s u rg e r y. I f yo u re a l l y wa n t t o d re s s we l l fo r a l m o s t n o t h i n g . > > I love the clothes featured in GQ. or yo u ’ l l l o o k l i k e a C u b i s t . S h o r t . T h a t ’s o k a y t o o . I ’d c o n s i d e r t r y i n g a s h o r t s i z e . w h i c h h a s t u r n e d i n t o t h e v i r t u a l d e s ig n e r t h r i f t s h o p . and I asked some friends what shirt to wear with it. e ve n i f yo u ’re o f a ve ra g e h e ig h t o r e ve n t a l l .b a s e d Fi l e n e ’s a l s o h a ve l o c a t i o n s o u t s i d e N e w Yo r k . Is this right? ••• N a h ! S t r i p e s . T h e n yo u c a n d e m a n d t o k e e p t h e c l o t h e s t h e s t y l i s t s s u p p l y a t m a g a z i n e s h o o t s . But don’t put on a striped tie. There’s a reason male models are skinny. n o t h e ig h t . B u t i s i t wo r t h i t ? • • • S o m e fe l l o w s g o by t h e m e a s u re o f t h e j a c k e t ’s re a c h i n g t h e f i n g e r t i p s o f t h e c u p p e d h a n d . I pulled out a striped shirt.s t r i p e s u i t . a n d ex t ra l o n g a re a b o u t p ro p o r t i o n .ra c k l i n e s b e c a u s e I h a ve a l o n g b o d y a n d s h o r t l e g s . Yo u m ig h t wa n t t o a vo i d we a r i n g s t r i p e s o f m a t c h i n g a m p l i t u d e . l o n g . Alas. T h e o p e n s e c re t o f m a ny o f N e w Yo r k ’s m o s t fa s h i o n . c o m .

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