Basic Principles of Makeup - WORKBOOK

Hairstyling & Aesthetics – TXJ3E – Ms. Navas
Rev: May 2011

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Basic Principles of Makeup
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TXJ3E

Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources

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B2: SKIN CARE

Basic Principles of Makeup

TXJ3E

Table of Contents
The Psychology of Makeup ........................................................................................................................... 6 Activity: Face Shadowing ..................................................................................................................... 8 Eyes ........................................................................................................................................................... 9 Small eyes: ............................................................................................................................................ 9 Prominent eyes: .................................................................................................................................... 9 Round eyes:......................................................................................................................................... 10 Deep-set eyes:..................................................................................................................................... 10 Oriental eyes: ...................................................................................................................................... 10 Almond eyes: ...................................................................................................................................... 10 Close-set eyes: .................................................................................................................................... 10 Wide-set eyes:..................................................................................................................................... 10 Makeup Tools.............................................................................................................................................. 12 Makeup Tips - Advice and Articles .......................................................................................................... 15 Foundation ............................................................................................................................................. 15 Choosing foundation type................................................................................................................... 15 Types of Foundations .............................................................................................................................. 15 HOW TO APPLY FOUNDATION ................................................................................................................ 16 HOW TO BUY FOUNDATION ............................................................................................................... 16 Choose Best Makeup Concealer ............................................................................................................. 18 HOW TO APPLY CONCEALERS ................................................................................................................. 19 Powder Makeup - Tips on how to apply powder ................................................................................ 19 How to Apply Blush ................................................................................................................................. 19 Tips for applying blusher ..................................................................................................................... 20 Powder Blush ...................................................................................................................................... 20 Cream Blusher ..................................................................................................................................... 20
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources

Page 3

B2: SKIN CARE

Basic Principles of Makeup

TXJ3E

Colour Choice for Blusher ....................................................................................................................... 21 Mascara Application and applying makeup ................................................................................................ 21 Mascara................................................................................................................................................... 21 How to Apply Mascara ........................................................................................................................ 21 Tips for applying eye mascara............................................................................................................. 21 Selection of eyeliner shades ............................................................................................................... 22 How to remove eye mascara .................................................................................................................. 22 Eyeliner ....................................................................................................................................................... 23 Straight Eye Liner: .................................................................................................................................. 23 How to Apply Eye shadow, Easy steps for Applying Eyeshadows and Application Tips ............................. 24 How to Apply Eyeshadow ....................................................................................................................... 24 Applying Eyeshadow Tip submitted by Pav ........................................................................................ 24 Eye Shadow Kit and Colour Choice ..................................................................................................... 24 Powder and Cream Eyeshadows ......................................................................................................... 25 Stick Shadows and Liquid Eye Shadow ............................................................................................... 25 Lipstick Applying makeup tips - How to Apply Lipstick ............................................................................... 26 How to Apply Lipstick.............................................................................................................................. 26 Makeup kit essentials for applying lipstick properly .......................................................................... 27 Lipstick Tips ......................................................................................................................................... 27 Makeup Tips ................................................................................................................................................ 33 General Guidelines ...................................................................................................................................... 35 SPECIAL OCCASION MAKEUP .................................................................................................................. 35 CORRECTIVE MAKEUP ............................................................................................................................. 35 ANALYZING FEATURES AND FACE SHAPE ............................................................................................... 35 WARM AND COOL COLORS ..................................................................................................................... 35
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Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources

B2: SKIN CARE

................................................................................................................... 36 Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 5 B2: SKIN CARE .................................................................................................................................................. 36 COLOR FOR EYES .....................................................................................................................................................................Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E SELECTING MAKEUP COLOR ................................................. 36 COLOR SELECTION STEPS ............................................... 36 CHEEK AND LIP COLOR ........... 36 HAIR COLOR and EYE COLOR ..........................................................................

so highlight the lid. That said. today. Lips . This was not just your run of the mill. Business presentation Eyes .Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E The Psychology of Makeup The Psychology of Makeup Jake Surette Beauty may only be skin deep. everything that's on your face is affecting everyone around you. they probably just haven't updated their makeup routine in 20 (plus) years. should be worn. As your audience is listening to you. I was working for a major fashion house that has a cosmetic subside. focus. You want your presenter to know that you are taking everything in. Business audience Eyes . In reality. let us review the psychology of how makeup. I was genuinely shocked to see how many women were emulating Dynasty's "Alexis" alone. If you aren't a deep lip girl. Melanie-Griffith-in-Working Girl moment. focus. Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 6 B2: SKIN CARE . What's your kisser saying about you? Have you ever taken note of how people are reacting to your face when you are talking? Whether you are presenting in a business meeting or meeting your boyfriend's family. How do you judge that woman in power who has a dark brown lip liner and a really light lipstick? Whore slept her way up. but your face plays a huge role in the first impression you make.at the very least . These were women of power. Poor things. I had to do a makeup event for Women in Business within the business district of Toronto. perhaps. Think about it: How do you react when looking at someone's brow's that are shaped like sperm? Tacky.have them lined and either use a medium toned lip colour or medium toned lip gloss.Keep them soft.regardless of how large the group is . No. If you are doing a presentation . Case in point: Three years ago. they are crying their mascara off in their pillows at night.Focus. They probably have no idea why they're being judged so harshly and.Now is the time to focus on your eyes. make sure to .the focus must be on your lip. they will focus on your lip and get much more out of your presentation. intensify the crease and pile on the mascara.

Lips . A soft. Eyes .It's always great to do up your eyes a la classy porn star. You're .A casual weekend family gathering should have your makeup kept crisp and clean. All in all.hopefully .Again. lined eye with a pop of sheer colour on the lid and natural mascara is your best bet.Soft. A deep smoky eye or colourful eye is fun.Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E Lips .not talking out of turn in this presentation.Gloss them up. A light lip gloss or sheer lipstick is the key. Just be open to changing it up. you certainly don't want a focus on your mouth. keep them soft. This is a guideline. Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 7 B2: SKIN CARE . Lips . stay true to your personality when it comes to how you make yourself up. Pleasure Eyes .

.Activity: Face Shadowing Place the dark and light shadowing to give the illusion of the ideal face.

bring forth and “plump” Dark and matte shades…. Try lining the inside of the lower lid with a soft white pencil to really open them. Light and shine…. and then smudge.Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E Eyes Eyes are the focal point of the face. remember the principle of light and dark. intensity. Prominent eyes: Use a matte shadow on the lid and blend it into the crease. perhaps changing the eye shape altogether! Again. Apply a darker shade to the outer half of the lid. The trick is to draw the attention to the eyes. line the inner rim of the eye with a soft eye pencil. but there are many more. The lighter iris. not the make-up. Line the outer half of the eye with a soft eye pencil and smudge. Use light colors and iridescent shadows on the lid for an eye-opening effect. Curl the lashes before applying mascara to open eyes even more. Highlight with a frosted shadow under the brow for evening sparkle. drawing the line outward on both top and bottom. For a sultry look. so be sure that your techniques and colors are the most flattering to the eye shape and color. and blend so that the gradation looks natural. Highlight under the brow with a light or frosted shade.push back and “shrink” Small eyes: Lengthen them by applying a soft eye pencil to the outer third of the bottom lid extending outward. and black are excellent depending on the eye color. the lighter your touch should be when applying color. This means that eye make-up mistakes are very noticeable. plum. and texture to create illusions of depth and size. right over the first shade. Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 9 B2: SKIN CARE . Use a short stroke to join this line to the upper lash line. Grey. Use color. navy.

Choose colors that complement the iris and be sure brows are groomed so that shadow application is easier. consider the following: Close-set eyes: Keep all medium to dark colors on the outer half of the eye. Try a little shadow or eye pencil on the outer half of the bottom lid to balance the depth of the eyes. This will draw attention outward and the eyes will seem farther apart. Apply a darker shade above the crease to recess this area. Almond eyes: Unless the eyes are too close or too far apart. and a darker shade on the outer half. Use a lighter shade on the inner half. Lengthen the eyes even more by outlining the outer third of both top and bottom with a soft eye pencil. Oriental eyes: Divide the area beneath the brow in half vertically. Narrow the eyes by lining the inner rim with a soft eye pencil. Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 10 B2: SKIN CARE . Smudge for a softer effect. extending them to a soft point. and blend together. Apply a highlighter under brown and blend. Check the eyebrow section to see if the brows are properly shaped to maximize the space between the eyes. having the point meet beyond the outer corner of the eye. Wide-set eyes: Extend the shadows to the inner corner of the eye and blend inward toward the bridge of the nose to minimize the space. you don’t have to worry about corrective techniques. If the eyes are either close-set or wide-set. Deep-set eyes: Use light or frosted shades on the lid.Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E Round eyes: Elongate the eyes by concentrating the deepest shades of the outer portion of the lid.

TXJ3E EYEBROWS  The eyebrow is the frame for the eye. Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 11 B2: SKIN CARE . also.Basic Principles of Makeup Make sure the brows are shaped correctly. The ideal shape can be drawn in three lines.

Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E Makeup Tools 1 Eyelash Curlers 2 Angled brush .for lines and brows 3 Natural foundation sponge 4 Eyelash Comb .for under eyes 11 Eyeshadow brush .cream foundation 14 Lip brush .for even coverage 15 Hair clips 16 Foundation brush .on top eyelids 12 Sharp scissors 13 Latex sponge .to soften pencil liner 7 Brush blender .for liquid foundation Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 12 B2: SKIN CARE .for eyeliner 6 Foam blender .to soften eyeshadow 8 Blush/contour brush 9 Tweezers -for all unwanted hair! 10 Dust-away brush .to separate lashes 5 Liner brush .

rounded brush (dome shape). Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 13 B2: SKIN CARE . Slanted Brush: Look for a small.Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E This short list of the best makeup brushes meet the daily makeup application needs that most of us have. 1. Blusher Brush: Look for full. It can also be use to brush off excess powder. a bristle head that is firm but soft for the delicate eye area. Concealer Brush: Look for square head to tapered corners. ideal for loose powder. ideal for liquid or cream foundations. The best makeup brushes will last a long time when washed regularly with mild shampoo. This brush is designed for sweeping color across eye lids and blending. By using its edge. good weight. blemishes-tapered). Long handle. narrow. they are in size proportion to the facial zone and task performed. can also be used for compacts with pressed powder. Eyeshadow Brush: Look for square head. 5. flat brush head with soft but firm bristles. full. 4. large head with slight tapering (not as large as powder brush) designed for even distribution and natural looking definition across the cheeks and cheekbone. The best makeup brushes qualities also include soft but firm bristle hair. This brush is designed for application of fine lines such as close to your lash line. 3. angled. ideal for blending (under eye -square. flat. and loose beads. great for application precision. with maximum application efficiency and maximum results . and they have edges and shapes that reflect their function. 6. medium to large sized (just under 1/2 an inch width). with slight taper at corners. tapered flat head. Foundation Brush: Look for fairly large wide. 2. blending and softening color edges. It also is used for applying powder to brows. no loose hairs. it can be used for defining eyelid crease. Large Powder Brush: Look for large.

8. The Best Makeup Brushes Plus One Of The Most Essential Makeup Tools: The Eyelash Curler.Basic Principles of Makeup 7. and you will generally benefit from a price break when you buy in multiples.. separating eyelashes and removing and mascara clumps or debris. Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 14 B2: SKIN CARE .. Designed for blending lip liner and lipstick applications. TXJ3E Clean an old. Great for blending lipstick colors too ( I always seem to wear two shades to get the color I want. Brush Sets: This is a convenient way to go if you know the essential best makeup brushes... with warm soapy water.. Lip Brush: Look for a small..Why? It saves you a little leg work in tracking down brush styles. flat tapered edge brush. it can work wonders in presenting a wider eyed look to your eyes. is a "must have" makeup tool.).. an eyelash curler. Eyebrow/ Eyelash Brush: The easiest least expensive of the brushes. narrow. You can also set your eyebrows with hair spray or gel by applying the substance to the wand/ brush and combing through and shaping eyebrows (of course clean bristles afterwards). This brow brush is perfect for shaping the brows. soft bristle tooth brush or mascara wand well.

They are ideal for young or clear skins. so blend them well into your skin with a damp cosmetic sponge. Liquid Foundations . Makeup should be an extension of what makes you. They have a fairy heavy texture. Foundation is the cosmetic product that women pay the most attention to. not something that makes you into someone else. Types of Foundations Tinted Moisturizers . eyeliners and their correct application for perfect look.Advice and Articles Foundation Many women avoid wearing foundation because they are scared of an unnatural mask-like effect. However. The make-up includes number of things like you should know about make up tools like foundation. foundation is one of those products you wear every day.These are thick . Choosing foundation type The reason for applying foundation is to get a smooth and even finish to your skin. Even the most expensive make up in the world would not look particularly great if it is applied carelessly and using your fingertips.Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E Makeup is an art and applying makeup tips in a tricky way is another thing. eyeshadow. look for an oil-free liquid foundation to cover affected areas without aggravating them. rich and moisturizing. There are women who are not beautiful. Before the start of make-up you should choose well lighted area. The foundation market today is saturated with many types and brands of foundations. Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 15 B2: SKIN CARE .the first is to choose the perfect foundation shade and the second is to pick the right formulation for your skin. as they will soothe your skin while giving a little coverage. All make up tools and products you need should be besides you.These are a a cross between a moisturizer and a foundation. you can blend tinted moisturizers on with your fingertips. so making the right investment at the beginning will pay off. Liquid foundation is most commonly used because it is easy to apply. There are two keys to applying foundation . If you have oily skin. Unlike other foundations. compact foundations are excellent alternatives as they give an even finish. concealer. And remember. Makeup Tips . but since they know the art of carrying themselves. making them ideal for dry or mature skins. they are the center of attraction despite their ordinary looks. Professionally done makeup enhances the appeal and gives you an added dignity in society which helps you regain self-confidence.These suit all but the driest skins. Cream Foundations . which doesn't have to be set with powder.

These are all-in-one formulations. to minimize the impact of facial hair. If any doubt then buy one shade lighter than your facial skin tone. To apply. HOW TO BUY FOUNDATION Test foundation on the inside of the forearm-skin tone is closest to neck colour there. It takes about a minute for colour to dry and interact with the chemicals in your skin. it will disappear into the skin. You may dilute the foundation by adding some astringent. It looks more natural if applied like this. then chin. Makeup should blend with the skin colour of the neck.Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E Mousse Foundation . toner or even water to make it sheer enough to let your skin show through. Take out a small blob of foundation on the palm of your hand. Start by dotting on the forehead and blend well with a damp sponge on fingers before moving on. Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 16 B2: SKIN CARE . then dot onto your skin with a sponge. not the face.) If you have chosen the right colour. Don't make up your mind instantly.These are the original foundation. Now do it on your cheeks. HOW TO APPLY FOUNDATION Foundation is always applied downwards. (Even the most flattering uplift cosmetics hall tends to have colour-distorting fluorescent lighting. because it's protected from UV damage. dot foundation section by section on the face. They come in a compact. nose and upper neck. Then go to the nearest source of natural light. dating back to the early days of hollywood. As foundation dries up fast. The red pigments develop first so it will appear the pinkest at the beginning.Again these are quite moisturizing and ideal for drier skins. usually with their own sponge for application. dab a little onto the back of your hand. Compact Foundation . They are best confined for use on badly blemished skin. which already contain powder. Stick Foundation .

Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 17 B2: SKIN CARE .

virtually invisible and vitamin-enriched. A stick concealer provides direct on-the-spot application. Concealer comes in shades to match every skin tone. Choose a makeup concealer that is lightweight yet creamy. thereby greatly enhancing the appearance of the face. The best concealer will brighten and lighten dark areas. Use of Under-Eye Concealer: Concealer is applied to cover dark circles around the eyes. Choose Best Makeup Concealer Concealer come in shades to match every skin tone. can be used under foundation or on their own. fragrance-free and non-comedogenic. Quality concealer make skin flaw-free. They are matched to the skin tone and are applied before using the harmony foundation. erase spots and even out skin tones. Find a concealer that is water-resistant.Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E Concealer The next step in make-up is the application of concealer (smooth-skin essentials). A quality concealer is texture-free. Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 18 B2: SKIN CARE . See great results with the use of best concealers for acne scars and blemishes. Most concealer. including under eye concealer.

and creams. In applying concealers. Read useful advice from makeup professional on how to apply blusher. In other words. eye color and lipstick and then apply blusher as Blush should be your last makeup step. Decide the color of blush you want to apply on your cheeks. Your concealer should be one shade lighter than your foundation (and only in extreme cases should you use a concealer two shades lighter).Tips on how to apply powder It is used to set makeup and hold it in place. Learn here about uses of makeup powders. using the right makeup techniques is important. dark spots. Concealers can be used to cover blemishes. translucent powder to prevent creasing. 5. Always set your concealer with a sheer. 4. 2. heart. Concealers are of a denser composition than regular foundations and are generally available in sticks. Apply foundation. fresher and less tired. We show you how to apply blusher and highlight your best features. blending is the key. pots.How to Apply Blusher Blusher is a subtle ingredient of make-up and brings a blush and glow to face. long or square? Knowing this helps you determine where it's best to apply the blush. Determine your face shape: are you oval. 3. drowsy face to life faster than a quick sweep of blush.blush. freckles or under eye circles. round. As with any other application. How to Apply Blush First choose the color that resembles the natural glow of your cheeks after you exercise. Nothing brings a dull. Give your complexion a bloom of colour with this indispensable beauty aid . Apply concealer with a small fine tipped brush for an accurate application. Applying blush .Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E HOW TO APPLY CONCEALERS 1. Page 19 Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources B2: SKIN CARE . Using a concealer that is too light or too pink will give the appearance of `owl eyes'. Complete the application of foundation. veins. Also read advice on Face Powder. it will emphasize the dark area instead of concealing it. marks. tubes. and you look instantly prettier. choosing powders and tips on applying makeup powder. powder and all eye makeup before applying blush. "You put blush on. Powder Makeup . ruddy areas." says makeup guru Bobbi Brown.

tapping off any excess or put a dab of gel on your fingers. tap the handle on the back of your hand to remove the excess. Make sure to blend makeup into your jawline and hairline so it looks more natural. Look in the mirror and smile Sweep color in an arc following the line of your cheekbone up from the apple of your cheek to your hairline. To apply powder blusher. but before face powder. Make sure it doesn't look like a stripe. Blend a little blush down your cheek for a little more natural. blend well. adding more blusher to create just the look you want. It is better to waste a little than applying too much! Cream Blusher Cream blusher is applied with your fingertips. If you have taken too much onto your brush. less dramatic look. a powder brush will last longer always dip the brush quickly and flick your wrist to stroke the cheek lightly never apply blusher on the nose for corrective purposes never apply too much blusher otherwise your face will look as a mask dab a little shimmery blush on the highest point of your cheekbone nearest your eye to create a more distinct look Powder Blush This should be applied over the top of your foundation and face powder. after foundation. To apply. Build up the effect gradually. never mix blusher powder with other makeup creams a color that is close to or lighter than your lipstick will work best use apricot shades on pale skin and dusty roses on darker skin if your skin is oily. Also try using a brush instead of those square sponge things or your face will look to cakey. Using your fingertips. TXJ3E Tips for applying blusher For a sun-kissed sheen: dab a small bit of bronzer powder on your forehead. from the plump part up towards your cheekbone. Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 20 B2: SKIN CARE . Keep color light & blended.Basic Principles of Makeup Put the blush on your brush. dust over the compact with a large soft brush. chin & nose. dab a few dots over your cheeks.

using a gentle side to side technique. Finally brush with a clean dry brush. To make the eyes alluring. the use of the right eye makeup product using the correct technique is very important. If you have blond or red lashes then go for brown mascara. Mascara adds volume and length to the lashes and make your eyes appear brighter and more beautiful. then apply the second coat. Curl your lashes with an eyelash curler and apply all other eye makeup. Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 21 B2: SKIN CARE . Wait for a minute for them to dry. Professional tips on mascara application. use the tip of the mascara wand to brush your lower lashes. How to Apply Mascara Start by applying mascara to your upper lashes first. For eyepopping appeal to this focal point of the face. However. Applying Mascara is the final step in eye makeup.particularly if your lashes are fair. Two thin coats look more natural than one thick coat. Let the first coat dry completely. the basic idea is to use complementary colors. Before applying mascara curl the lashes to widen the eyes. Darker-lashed women can consider brown for a casual look. Brush them downwards to start with. Different formulas and application of mascara can enhance your lashes in different ways. as a general rule. for highlighting your b Mascara adds a flattering fringe to your eyes . Begin with the underside of your upper eye lashes and then moving the brush slowly upward toward the tips of your lashes. Tips for applying eye mascara Select a suitable color. Use a tiny zig-zag movement to prevent mascara from clogging on your lashes. it is best to opt for a shade that tones well with your skin colouring and co-ordinates with the rest of your skin colouring and makeup.Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E Colour Choice for Blusher There is always a kaleidoscope of blusher shades to choose from. Take care to keep your hand steady whilst you are applying the mascara and not to blink while the mascara is still wet. Prior to your mascara. Mascara Application and applying makeup Mascara Mascara should be applied before an eye shadow. Comb through your lashes with an eyelash comb to remove any excess the wand has left behind. Mascara is applied on the eye lashes to beautify them. and black or brown-black for more pronounced or dramatic lashes. to separate the lashes. and similarly apply a second coat. then brush your lashes upwards from underneath. Next. colors.

it is preferable to restrict dark eyeliner colors to the crease of the eye and highlight the brow bone with a light shade. eyeliners in brown and rose tones contrast the blue of the eyes. and chocolate. Repeat this till all the mascara is gone. A mocha shade is a subtle. as they tend to make eyes appear smaller. Roll a cotton bud dipped in a cosmetic cleanser over the lashes. Thus. All eye shadows need to complement the eye and hair-color of the person and a bit of powder dusted on the eyelid prepares the eyeliner to set well and intensify the eyes. except those with small eyes would do well to avoid these. taking the mascara down onto the tissue. Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 22 B2: SKIN CARE . good for all eye colors. making them appear more vibrant. While removing the mascara from eyes always avoid the colour from going onto the delicate area below the bottom lashes and close your eyes. How to remove eye mascara Mascara must be removed very carefully to avoid damaging the delicate skin around the eyes. Neutral shades in eyeliners are charcoal. everyday look for all eye colors but especially brown eyes.Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E Selection of eyeliner shades For women with blue eyes. brighten up with violet shades that give a dramatic look for evenings or stage makeup and look great in photographs. Green eyes. which also give a smoldering look when green and gold eyeliners are used. on the other hand. black.

Straight Eye Liner: This eyeliner is a subtle look that follows the curve of the upper lash line. the fewer strokes the better. When used correctly you can define. The line must be as smooth and fluid as possible. opening up small eyes and many other illusions can be created with the correct use of eyeliner. Eyeliner can be subtle. enhance. soft. as it is great for a daytime look.Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E Eyeliner Eyeliner is probably one of makeup artist’s most valuable tools. Eyeliner can also be used for corrective purposes such as making wide-set eyes appear closer. skillful application of dramatic eyeliner. and should not have any jagged lines or bumps. consistent strokes. This is probably the most commonly used eye liner application. with most applications being done in only two strokes. dramatic or glamorous. It is best to keep the number of strokes to a minimum. The eyeliner is as close to the lash line as possible and should look as though it is "hugging" the lashes. This (as well as most other applications) is best done with fluid. Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 23 B2: SKIN CARE . A makeup artist can turn a daytime look into an evening look with a quick. brighten and open up the eye.

Easy steps for Applying Eyeshadows and Application Tips Eyeshadows are certainly eye catching on the entire face. Light base Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 24 B2: SKIN CARE . Treat yourself with tips on how to apply eyeshadow. Apply the medium shade on the upper eyelid only. The first rule when applying eye shadow is to blend it well so there are no harsh edges.and powders but most women just want to know what is right for them. Smudge it lightly to give your eyes a subtle. and for blue eyes use a blue eyeshadow in a lighter shade than your eye colour. eye liners. 2. How to Apply Eyeshadow 1. 4. glamorous look. apply a little shadow beneath the eyes. Eye Shadow Kit and Colour Choice Your eye shadow kit may contain 3 shadowsa very light shade (vanilla. Follow below given steps on how to apply eye shadow. How to Apply Eye shadow. And the darkest shade on the crease of the eyelid that is the place almost in the middle of the total eye area-above the lashes and beneath the brows. For those wishing to make their eyes the focal point of attention. silver grey etc) which is the high lighter and which gives a light shimmer on the brow bone and highlights it. The box has two more shades of the same color. Always choose neutral colours for eyeshadow to subtly enhance your looks. It is like fun to experiment with eye shadows. eyeliners in the right style can do the trick. along the lower lash line. or play with kaleidoscope of different shades to contrast with and dramatize your colouring. 3. Use a lighter shade under the browbone to highlight the eyes. Blend both the colors well. With the tip of a fine brush. beige. Applying Eyeshadow Tip submitted by Pav Purple eyeshadows tend to look stunning on brown eyes as does green on hazel eyes. pencils. Put the very light shade (high lighter) on the space beneath the brows up to the crease of the eye lid. very pale pink. choosing best colors and make your eyes look fantastic. eyebrow gels. eye shadows.Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E Eye Shadows Great care is needed when applying eyeshadow. paints. gold on green eyes.

gels. Cream Shadows: These are oil based and come in little pots or compacts. not than clothes. Usually Liquid eyeshadow come in a slim bottle with a sponge applicator. cream or beige look good on small eyes. this can be skipped as creams will clump and clog with the dry powder. Look for the cream-to-powder ones that smooth on as a liquid and blend to a velvety powder finish. sticks. Eye shadows need to coordinate with eyes and hair. These are available in pearly and matt textures. bronzed pinks and silver toned peaches look good on women with green or black eyes. lavenders are best for blue-eyed. eye color and hair color is what makeup experts recommend and neutral looks good on everyone. because they are the easiest to apply and control. You can build up their density from barely there to dramatic. These come in pressed cakes of powder either with a small brush or a sponge applicator. Browns. you can get a deeper effect and increase the staying qualities of the colour. but if you apply them with a wet brush. crayons and creams. spread over the entire lid with a touch of dark shadow in the outer corners. The first step towards applying any eye makeup is to pat some powder onto the eyelids to matte them and keep the powder eye shadow from creasing. Ensure they have a creamy texture before you buy them. Smoky grays.Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E shadows in pale pink. Pressed powders are still the most popular form of shadows. Powder and Cream Eyeshadows Powder Eyeshadow: This is the most popular type. these accent the eyes. Apply using a damp brush or sponge if you want a deep colour for an evening look. there is a choice of forms of the eye shadows. You can choose from pressed powders. They are applied either with a brush or your fingertips. blonde haired women as well as light brown eyed-ladies. Picking Your Eye shadow Colors Eye shadow colors matched with skin tone. The effect is not long lasting. Eyeshadows Makeup Tip Suggested by Visitors Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 25 B2: SKIN CARE . so they would not drag at your skin. you smooth these onto your eyelids from the stick. Stick Shadows and Liquid Eye Shadow Wax based. pencils. Apart from colour. They are a good choice for dry skins that need extra moisturizing. If using cream eye shadow. yellow.

Prime your lips by smoothing them with foundation. Start by defining the cupid's bow on the upper lip. It will also give an attractive. ensuring you reach into every tiny crevice on the surface. there are shades of virtually every color when it comes to coloring your lips. So it does not drag you skin. Reapply to help a longer lasting finish. By Edward Lipstick Applying makeup tips . You will look sophisticated. the lipstick is used more to subjugate your skin tone. Rest your elbow on a firm surface and carefully dwar an outline using a lip pencil. Put on a dark brown mascara. Like the colors of rainbow. With a lighter complexion. Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 26 B2: SKIN CARE . it may help to warm it slightly in your palm. Go for bright colors and avoid light pinks.Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E Try applying an eyeshadow that matches your skin tone. then smudge. It seriously makes you look like da devil. Apply to the lid all the way up to the eyebrow. Or the American flag which is worse. Use a lipbrush to fill in the outline with lipstick. in sync with the occasion. to help you rLipstick stay put for longer. but very natural. You will help your lipstick last longer if you blot over the surface with a tissue. To apply lipstick properly.How to Apply Lipstick Lipstick has been around for about 5000 years! It is the earliest and quickest way to give your face a focus and create an instant splash of colour. semi-matte finish to your lips. using a makeup sponge so you reach every tiny crevice on the surface. it is important to have the right tools handy for the best application of lip makeup and get the setting right. Open your mouth to brush the colour into the corners of your lips. Finish by completing the edges of the outline to the upper lip. NEVER wear red eyeshadow if you are a blue-eyed blonde. Lighter shades make a fair complexion seems paler and dull. How to Apply Lipstick Ensure your lips are soft and supple by smoothing over moisturizer before you start applying Lipstick. The first step is to choose the best shade of lipstick according to the skin tone. Dust over the top of the foundation with a light dusting of your usual face powder. Then apply a walnut colored eyeliner on the top lid.

When applying lip gloss. defined shape to the lip line. the lips must be stretched and the liner repeated lightly again. If the lip pencil is chilled in the fridge for a few minutes before application. They are available in pencil form and should be matched with the shade of lipstick used. blotted with a tissue and lip color re-applied with a lip brush for a no-budge. apply lip balm or chapstick first. A lip liner defines the lips and prevents lip color from bleeding. Making the mouth round as an 'o' prevents lip color from spreading onto the teeth. nosmudge. Applying a touch of foundation/lip base onto the lips helps lipstick stay on longer and a neutral or lipstick matched liner used to outline the lips after this. Lipstick Tips Go over your lipstick with an ice cube for lasting results. lip liner and gloss. The lip liner must be started from the center of the upper lip.Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E Makeup kit essentials for applying lipstick properly The essential items for applying lipstick properly is having the right shade of lipstick handy with a lip brush. luscious lip wear. Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 27 B2: SKIN CARE . deliberate strokes and lipstick that has a formulation for transfer-resistant color stays for a longer time. Lip conditioners used in lipsticks give it longer staying powder and are ideal for party wear or all daywear too. lip base/balm. depending on individual taste. drawn into a line towards each corner and follow the edge of the natural lip line. it glides on smoothly and the outlining of the lips is easier. Liners and gloss are best avoided for a lip that is too full. or lipstick. but just a hint of lacquer brings a glow to the face. giving it durability. Gentle brushing around the lips with a soft toothbrush helps to exfoliate dead cells around the mouth area and give a clear. while keeping the lips moist and nourished for hours. The color can be filled over the lips with a lip brush in slow. After the first application is over.

Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E To make lips pink take lip balm and brush with softly to your lips. Lipstick Lipstick is the final stage of your makeup application. Apply these tips to make your lips kissable! Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 28 B2: SKIN CARE .

Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 29 B2: SKIN CARE .

Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 30 B2: SKIN CARE .Basic Principles of Makeup Activity: Corrective Lip Treatment TXJ3E Use colored pencils on the diagrams to illustrate how lipstick can be applied to create the illusion of more balanced and proportioned lips.

to sport this bold look. which is wearable anywhere. Here. and Veronica Lake. and odds are you'll see more than one model or celebrity sporting a sumptuous red pout (and the attitude to match). and lace. Here's how. first choose a lip liner that either matches the desired lipstick or is a shade darker than your natural lip colour. almost anything goes as far as texture. Think of current 'It' girls such as Christina Aguilera. The red lip is an ubiquitous trend that typically carries through each season. as it can look too garish with an already stand-out mouth. with the exception of a high-gloss finish. Apply lip colour with a lip brush. We're surrounded by rusty hues of orange.Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E How to Apply Red Lipstick: A Personalized Guide to Wearing the Red Lip Color Trend Latoya Perkins The key to looking chic and sexy wearing red lipstick is choosing the right product and shade. As a rule. Dita Von Teese. for many of us the red lip can be the most daring and daunting look to pull off. draping us in luxurious fabrics such as velvet. brown and red. If full-on colour makes you nervous. yet fall is undoubtedly when this lip look is most fitting. apply lipstick with your finger. wool. and Scarlett Johannsen . but depending on the application and texture of the product. This season. and applying it properly. Unfortunately. the wearer must be comfortable being the centre of attention. patting it on the center of the lip and working outward to create a stained look. sweeping on just enough to lay Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 31 B2: SKIN CARE . After tracing the lip line. Application Another important consideration is the application. Texture Many women avoid trying a red lip because they feel it can look too brash. lips can be as subtle or as intense as you're comfortable with. Painting on a sexy red lip is the ultimate finish to this season's opulence. a blue-based red is flattering on most complexions and will make your eyes sparkle. For more intensity. yellow. suede. and our wardrobes reflect the richness of the season. Vivien Leigh.many who take their cue from old Hollywood glamour Queens such as Rita Hayworth. and skin more luminous-looking. smudge the line slightly with a Qtip or your fingertip to make it less rigid. teeth look whiter. The common denominator between these ladies is self-confidence . Open up any fashion magazine this fall. we'll outline how to sport a notice-me pucker with style and ease.

Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E a foundation of colour. Cover Girl Continuous Colour Lipstick in Really Red. although on very dark skin a cool blue fuchsia-red can look beautiful. for a more glamorous look. and when is it most appropriate? As with any makeup look.whatever you're most comfortable with is what will look best. Blot lips with a tissue and apply a second coat. Finish the look with a dab of pearlized highlighter in either the centre of the bottom lip. Ultimately. choose a moist. This gives lips dimension and makes lip colour last. the choice is up to you . golden-. For day or for a more casual look. because you'll wear it with confidence. balance is key. creamy formula and try not to apply it too precisely. For medium skintones. At night or for more formal affairs. As far as appropriateness goes. In particular. painting colour on carefully.as a rule. If skin is ruddy. try wearing soft retro curls or waves reminiscent of Marilyn Munroe. reds with a blue undertone look great on fair skin or that which has a cooler undertone. Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 32 B2: SKIN CARE . a blue-based red is flattering on most complexions and will make your eyes sparkle. or Chanel Lover Rouge Allure Luminous Satin Lip Colour. The following are some handy shade suggestions: For fair skin. and skin more luminous-looking. or just above the bow of the upper lip. Tone Wearing the right shade for your skintone is crucial in choosing a red lip colour . Olive or dark skin tones look beautiful in shades like Lancôme Rouge Absolut Crème in Merlot (my personal favorite) or Maybelline Moisture Extreme Lipstick in Crushed Cranberry. For added drama. teeth look whiter. or brown-based reds work best. which can look too extreme during the day. orange-. At this point you may be thinking: What do I do with the rest of my makeup? How should I wear my hair? When should I wear red lipstick. aim for a lip colour that has violet or fuchsia in it. Keep the lip the focus of the face by wearing only a sheer wash of champagne-coloured shadow on lids and a soft application of rosy blush to the apples of cheeks. For olive or darker skin. and apply carefully all over lips. brush on several coats of mascara to lashes. Hair pulled loosely back into a chignon or bun at the nape of the neck looks polished. Clinique Long Last Soft Shine Lipstick in Red Red Red. which will up the intensity. or Estee Lauder Pure Colour Long Lasting Lipstick in Red Attitude both look great. which accentuates the mouth. the red lip has been around so long it's almost a neutral. try a lipstick with a matte consistency.

it will work wonders on oily skin which is prone to acne and pimples. Makeup Tip 11) Apply cream blusher in light downward movements to prevent it from creasing in specks of colour from catching in the fine hairs on your face. Makeup Tip 6) If you look tired then blend a little concealer just away from the outer corner of your eye . Or make the appear small by wearing dark and more muted colours. Makeup Tip 12) If mascara tends to clog on your lower lashes then try using a small thin brush to paint colour on to individual lashes. glamorous color which immediately brightens your face. Makeup Tip 9) The colour of powder eyeshadow can be made to look more intense by dipping your eyeshadow brush in water first. Makeup Tip 5) Mascara your lashes before applying false ones to help them stick properly. simply use an ordinary face powder a couple of shades darker than your usual one to slim down the cheeks.Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E Makeup Tips Makeup Tip 1) Sweep a little loose powder under your eyes when applying dark shades of eye shadow to catch any falling specks and prevent them from staining your skin.its is happy. Makeup Tip 13) Make sure you give moisturizer Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 33 B2: SKIN CARE . Makeup Tip 4) Add a drop of witch hazel available in all good pharmacies to turn ordinary foundation into a medicated one. Makeup Tip 7) If you have not got time for a full make-up. Makeup Tip 2) Make your lips look larger by wearing a bright. but want to look great. Makeup Tip 8) Never apply makeup before blow drying your hair .it makes you look as though you had a good night's sleep. light lipstick. Makeup Tip 10) Keep eye lashes smooth and supple by brushing them with petroleum jelly before going to bed at night.the heat from the dryer can make you perspire and cause your makeup to smudge. paint on a bright red lipstick . Makeup Tip 3) If you do not have a specialized contouring product for cheeks.

gently pinch your cheeks. apply both cream and powder blusher. try this tips . set with translucent powder then dust with a little powder blush. If you are near-sighted. purse your lips and pull it out. put your finger in the mouth. hold it next to a lighter bulb for a few seconds before applying. Apply the cream formulation first.it will look wonderfully natural! Makeup Tip 17) To prevent lipstick from getting on your teeth. Makeup Tip 16) If you are unsure where to apply blusher. apply blusher in the same area . go for brighter eyeshadows and lots of mascara to ensure they do not disappear. Makeup Tip 20) For long lasting blush on sunny days or hot nights. Makeup Tip 14) If your eye liner is too hard and drags your skin.after putting it on.Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E time to sink in before you start applying your makeup as it will help your makeup go on more easily. Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 34 B2: SKIN CARE . So. If you like the effect. Makeup Tip 15) Lip gloss can look sophisticated if you just apply a dot in the center of your lower lip. Makeup Tip 18) Women who wear glasses need to take special advice on makeup. your glasses will make your eyes look smaller. Makeup Tip 19) A little foundation lightly rubbed through your eyebrows and brushed through with an old toothbrush will instantly lighten them.

WARM AND COOL COLORS  Warm colors range from yellow and gold through oranges. most reds. Apply liner color to the lips. and balanced with the proper hairstyle. redoranges. lighter. Apply gloss to the center of the lips with a lip brush or applicator.  Cool colors are dominated by the blues. The goal is to enhance the client’s individuality. Choose dramatic smoky eyes. A basic rule is that highlighting emphasizes a feature. and some yellow-greens. fill in with pencil and blot. greens. ANALYZING FEATURES AND FACE SHAPE   The basic rule of makeup application is to emphasize the client’s attractive features while minimizing features that are less appealing. Add darker. Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 35 B2: SKIN CARE .Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E General Guidelines SPECIAL OCCASION MAKEUP      Choose striking contour eyes. CORRECTIVE MAKEUP   Facial features can be accented with proper highlighting. violets. or shimmery color to the cheeks. not to “remake” her image according to some ideal standard. and blue-reds. whereas shadowing minimizes it. subdued with correct shadowing or shading.

blues. and purples. HAIR COLOR and EYE COLOR Hair color needs to be taken into account when determining eye makeup color. medium. coppers. cool. Light or dark tones will provide more contrast and appear bolder. or neutral. etc. medium.  Medium skin color—Medium tones will create more of a understated look. or dark.  Decide if the skin is light. or neutral.  Dark skin color—Dark colors will be subtle. COLOR FOR EYES  Neutrals are always the safest choice  Complementary colors are determined thus:  Blue eyes—Orange: Choices include gold.Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E SELECTING MAKEUP COLOR  Consider skin. eye. cool. red-violet.  Green eyes—Red: Choices include brown-based reds. warm orange-browns like peach and copper. Determine eye color: blue.  Light skin color—Use light colors for a natural look and dark colors for a dramatic look. brown. COLOR SELECTION STEPS • • • • • • • • Determine skin level: light. rusts. Apply makeup. and violet. pinks. red-orange. Choose eye makeup colors based on complementary colors. Coordinate cheek and lip colors within same color family: warm. and hair color. red-browns like mauve and plum. CHEEK AND LIP COLOR Coordinate in the same color family as the eye makeup. Determine complementary colors. Determine skin undertone: warm. or dark. green. mauve. and neutrals like taupe or camel. Determine hair color: warm or cool. and silvers. grays. plums. medium or light will be striking and vivid.  Brown eyes—neutral and can wear any contrasting colors such as greens. Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 36 B2: SKIN CARE .

 Keep workstation sanitary.  Protect client from direct skin or hair contact with chair. neat.  Use clean spatula to remove creams from jars.  Use a shaker-type container for loose powder.Basic Principles of Makeup SAFETY PRECAUTIONS  Wash your hands before and after every application.  Properly drape client.  Discard all disposable items.  Keep your fingernails smooth. and well organized. TXJ3E Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 37 B2: SKIN CARE .  Use antiseptic on tweezed areas of the eyebrow to avoid infection.  Never apply lip color directly from container to the client’s lips.  Pour all lotions from bottle containers.  Use only sanitized brushes and implements.

Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 38 B2: SKIN CARE .

Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 39 B2: SKIN CARE .

Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 40 B2: SKIN CARE .

Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3E Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 41 B2: SKIN CARE .

Basic Principles of Makeup Activity: TXJ3E Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 42 B2: SKIN CARE .

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