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Math and Mr. Aled Owen.
The day when you pick up your puppy, you should do this (if possible)before 12 o clock in the the morning.This is necessary because of when you get home with your pup,it needs the whole day to feels itselves a bit comfortable to its new home. You have to understand that all and everything is strange to him,and he surely will miss his littermates and his mother.Take care that you don't get too many visitors on the first day wich want tot watch your new puppy.Give him a few days to get him feel comfortable,and if he feels well in the house,you can ask the people to come and visite him/her. The first time in the car: when you take your puppy home by car,place him on the backseat or on your lap.If the pup starts to cry(because of he does not like it to be in the car)don't start to comfort him or pet him.If you do,you will confirm his fear,and you will have a whining dog in future,or even a dog that gets carsick. The first you have to do when you get home with your puppy is go outside to the place were he has to go for his natures call.Wait untill he did something,and give him a reward and tell him he did great. After he was out you can go inside,and give something to drink in his new waterbowl.When your puppy had all this new experiences he will get sleepy.Bring him to the place were he has to sleep,and stay with him untill he sleeps.
If your puppy sleeps,don't touch him,and let him sleep.He needs his rest.If you do have children,keep them away from him.Ofcourse it is a very moving scene,but let him sleep. When the puppy wakes up,his housetraining will start.Lift him up,bring him outside to go potty.After he was out he probably will be hungry.See if he can find his new food and waterbowl.Give him some time to eat.10 to 15 minutes. Young pups are not clean so long.You have to housetrain them.After his sleep,when he ate,and when he played he mostly needs to go out.Bring him to the place were he is allowed to do his natures call,and wait untill he does something.Pet him,and tell him it is a good puppy when he did it on the place you wanted.If you watch your puppy's behaviour you exactly can see when he needs to do something.He will whine or turn around before he sits and does it.Bring him outside immediately and wait untill he is finisched.Be patient with him,and dont punisch him if a little accident happends.He has to learn a lot and he still is a baby.Don't allowe him to scratch on the door or that he starts to sream when he wants to go outside.This way he learns that if he screams YOU will run for him,even if he does not has to go out. It is also important that you teach your puppy to do its nature calls on another place as only in your garden.This is important because of if you only let him go in your garden,he never will do something on another place(Vacation,showarea etc)As you know a dog works with smells,and in his own garden he only has his own smell,and that feels safe for him.If he never was outside of the garden,he never will trust other smells,and never will do something outside of the garden.
The first night in his new home: Feed your puppy for the last time around 20.00 hours,ans give the last water around 22.00 hours.Before you go to bed,he has to go outside for the last time that day.Be sure that he did something,otherwise he needs to go outside in the middle of the night. If you go to bed you take your puppy with you to the bedroom.Give him a kennel were you put a blanket in,or a vetbed wich is comfortable.Put a hand next to him to let him know you are in his neighbourhood.He will stay calm,and will not start to howl,and fall asleep very fast.If he gets restless in the night mostly he needs to go outside to go potty.If he did something,hug him,and teel him he is a good dog,and bring him back to his sleepingplace.After a few nights he wil lsleep the whole night on,and when your puppy feels himselves at home,you can place him for the night on the place you planned for him in the future.If you use a kennel also during the day if he is tired,he learns that he has a trustfull place were he can go to sleep or rest. Feeding your puppy: Give your pup a place were nobody can disturb him when he eats.In the beginning you need to feed your puppy 4 times a day.This is because of a puppy's stomach is very small,and this way your puppy has the time to get all the nutritions out of the
food wich he needs.When he is 6 or 7 months old,you can feed him twice a day.This scedule is for his entire life. Give him 10 to 15 minutes time to eat.If he did not eat at all,don't worry.If he was hungry he would have eat.Sometimes puppy's wich just arrive in their new homes feel themselves alone,and need some time to get setteled.If he feels himselves well in his new home he soon starts te eat well. Dont give your pup other food if he does not eat!!!If you do,you will create a dog that has a low appetite,and knows that you will give him something else.This way he'teaches'you what he wants,and that is i think not what you want. Give the food allways on the same time,so the housetraining will get easyer. NEVER give your puppy the oppertunity to have his food during the whole day.You will create a picky puppy wich only eats when he wants.And this way he will take much longer time to get clean in the house,because of most of the timea pup has to go out after it ate. Watch his stool allways.If he does not eat so well for a few days,and the stool is thin,go immediately to the vet for a check.If the stool is watery or with blood you msut go the first day you see he has it!!!!!!!!Better onr time too much as too late. The pup needs his wormcure every 3 months(In his first twelve weeks more often,but the most of them are given by the breeder)in his first year of life.Than it will be enough to give the wormcure twice a year. In the beginning your puppy has to go outside after you fed him,but when he is older you have to teach him that he first has to go outside,and than feed him.This is because of if your dog will run a lot after it ate(Especially big sized dogs)they can get peoblems with their stomach.So dont let your dog run a lot after he ate.!!! Learning to stay alone at home: Our dog is from nature a social feeling creature(he lives in a group and needs that company)But,he needs to learn to stay alone.It is the best that you train him from the beginning.Dont
because of you have to give hime the confidence that you allways come back.and it starts to scream or bark.don't get mad at him.If he still is quiet you can tell him he did fine.because of when you go back.and tell that he did fine.Go upstairs.Try to get him quiet by give a small bounce on the door.and you take him a lot of independence.Give him from the .he does not learn to stay alone.your attention!!It also does not work when you get mad at him.It can be because of they are boring themselves.and that is exactly what he wants.You only can say something if you catch him in the act.you can build out the time you leave for a longer time.and that is what he has to learn.He does not understand that you are mad because of he did something wrong.and go for a short time out of the room he normally sleeps.If he is quiet for a moment(few minutes) you can go to him.But be sure he is quiet at the moment you go to him.Don's stay away for hours in the beginning.and he will win in asking attention from you. Put the teeth in all they can find: Why does a pupy bites in a lot of things???There are several reasons.give him the oppertunity to walk after you the whole day.DON"T go back.Start to bring him to "his"place(crate or basket)you gave him in the house.If he really understands that he is a good dog when he is qiuet during your absence. If your puppy has to stay alone.Dogs don't think the same way as we people do.or in another room.but he will relate it to your arrival at home.because of he than also gets your attention.or just to be anxious to find out etc.but one thing is for sure!!He does not do this to tease you.If he can follow you everywere .just ignore it(Also when he ate some very expensife fournitures.or your shoes)and clean it up.you do confirm his complaints.and negative attention IS also attention. If you come home.else he really does not understand what is going on.shoes.This way of training you can develope for a longer time.If you give him something to chew on will not automatically say that he does not chew on your fournitures.and your puppy destroyed something or did his nature calls in the house.Go back after a few minutes.etc.Sometimes they do it because of their teething(Between 12 weeks to 26 weeks).If something happened.and you can create a dog wich is shy when you come home.
Some important tips: The best age to pick up a puppy is around eight weeks..If the pup pulls the tablecloth off.Be very friendly at that moment.That way a puppy feels as pretty he will repeat.You must not hit him.Ofcourse you have to find out wich way of training is the best for your puppy.In this age untill 12-13 weeks the puppy needs to go to do all the things he will do in future to get an open and self for sure character.you wil get a shy dog in future when he comes in new or for him unknown situations .following some tips when your puppy chews on things: 1.Throw a can were you did put some marbles in.beginning no chance to bite in things he isn't allowe to bite in.This means he starts with his socialisations phase.If you cvatch him in the act.so your puppy will have a reaction of fear.Another methode is when the object itselves is the punishment.he will feel himselves be hunted.if he stops. 2.reward him again.If you never take your puppy to another place as home.and learns that he is not allowed to do that. A few minutes a day is more than enough.or a bunch of keys next to the puppy when he chews in an object he is not allowed to chew on.the can will fall down.If he return to the same object you can tell him not to do that.The motivation to go back and try again will get lesser if you are being strictly with this way of training.tell him not to do that with a voice that he understands you are serious.It does not take that much time to get your puppy well socialized.If he looks at you.makes noise.because of every pup has its own character.You should NEVER lay a hand on him for punishment!!!!!!!!!! You have to imagine that it is easyer to teach a puppy something as tell him not to do it.Don't run after him to punish him.and that what he does not feel as pretty he wil lstop doing it.call him and give him a hug or treat because of he came to you.or he means he can run away for play with you.Its only to get his attention away from the object he chews in.When your puppy is pulling the tablecloth from your table:put a closed can with marbles on the table.
lying on the couch.because of he did understand you from the beginning.This is not good for future socialisation.He only will learn from you that if he is afraid you lift him up.You take him away his sight.This is not good for his young bones. As last tip i want to say that what the pup is NOT allowed to do when he is an adult dog.tell him from the beginning.you will create a better bond with him.as youtell him he has to be shy.He does not like that and sees it as a treatment.You better can go a few times 15 minutes.dig out the tulipbulbs. Do not allowe your puppy to bite in the lead:arms:jacket during the walks.Be serious and tell children also not to pet him over his head.and the puppy means it is a play when they do this.They do not think like people do.you must NOT learn him when he is a puppy.The best is to pet him under his chin.If he will get afraid for new things. "Train your dogs mind." .If you play with him.don't pet him with your hand over his head(read eyes).growl when he is eating or having a bone.as once a day one hour.If you don't want him to jump up to you.If children will do the same.(A dog sees our two hands as two mouthes) Don't give your puppy his toys during the whole day.so you will ge a dog in future what understands you.If you allways pet him over his head. not just it's body.You also have to imagine that a dog sees our hands as mouths.Learning new things take a lot of energy from your puppy.bite you. If you want to pet your dog.every time with another toy.And do not allowe him tobark to other dogs during his walks. You have to make the walks not too long in the beginning.NEVER lift him up to tell him not to be afraid.what can give corrections.This way there is no reason to bite in hands.he can start to bite in your hands.Be consistant from the beginning.your puppy will start to bite in their hands:the children lift up their hands.15 minutes is more than enough.He will be thankful for that.This way he does not need you for playing.and the conclusion is that he gets more and more shy.
they are sensitive to rough treatment and corrections. or it may become more anxious and wound up. or acting very engrossed in something else and paying no attention to you. trying to do everything in triple time. helping to turn them into excellent. These dogs are very sight-oriented.I thought it wood be nice to put some information on the www. Attention-training is important for Border Collies that will be shown in obedience competition. but you must also be fair in your corrections and training. which causes it to make even more mistakes. works best with soft dogs for obedience training. Training/Behavior hints for border collies Border Collies are often "soft" dogs. obedience and hear all the quistions they all have abouth dogs & border collies. and are easily distracted by anything moving around them. . It brings out the best in them.Dear people After 12 years given lessons to people in obedience and comp. with plenty of treats and/or play. possibly rolling onto its back in submission. You must be firm and consistent because these dogs will try to get away with as much as they can. Typical reactions from a Border Collie that has been stressed by rough or unfair treatment are that it may shut down. A dog that is closely watching his handler cannot pay attention to other things that are happening around him. happy workers that love their training sessions. Motivational-type training. that is.
facial expressions. the sound of a smoke alarm.tray it with your voice. This is why these dogs are so popular in movies and television.. Think abouth it. Domestic dogs also use this means of communication. If you can learn to interpret how your dog is feeling by observing its posture and expression and listening to it. playing dead. fireworks. They love to learn new things and can be taught many behaviors.. and rolling over.. Over the centuries wolves evolved an elaborate system of body language. such as sitting up. and all of these signals are easily understood by other dogs. even something as simple as hand-clapping). and vocalizations to communicate with each other. Border Collies can be very sound-sensitive. AGGRESSIVE . other dogs might just be extremely distracted by different noises.. & VOCALIZATIONS LANGUAGE..But in training you can use thise sensitive hearing. you'll be well on the way to successful communication with your pet and better equipped to solve any behavior problems that arise. They can be very undignified and clownish if they think it will get them attention or make people laugh.. Body talk HOW TO INTERPRET YOUR DOG'S BODY FACIAL EXPRESSIONS. Following are some major canine attitudes and their typical outward manifestations..Border Collies make wonderful trick dogs. This sensitivity manifests itself in a couple of ways: some dogs become very frightened at loud or unusual noises (i..e.. and they usually love to show off.
Eyes Wide open. Possible wiggling. whining. Vocalization Excited short barking. Vocalization Whimpering. or slightly open in a "grin. Alert look. Vocalization Low whine or moaning-type bark. Fluffed up. CURIOUS/EAGER/EXCITED Perked-up. Wagging. teeth covered. Tail Partially lowered. Eyes Wide open. Growl. Body Normal stance. Mouth/teeth Mouth closed. Loud bark. Mouth/teeth Relaxed. Ears FRIENDLY Ears Perked-up. Tail Straight out from body. Mouth/teeth Lips open. possibly slightly open. Eyes Narrow or staring challengingly. Completely Dominant position. yapping. Body Tense. standing on tiptoe. Mouth/teeth Mouth open. close to head. or possible wiggling of whole rear end. Possible jaw snapping. Tail Up or out from body. Still. forward-pointing. Slightly lowered in a Submissive position.Ears Back. ANXIOUS Ears Partially back. Vocalization Snarl. drawn back to expose teeth bared in a snarl. Possible panting. Wagging. PLAYFUL & HAPPY . Body Normal posture. or pacing. Tail Up. or short." Body Tense. "smiling" mouth. high bark. Hackles on neck up. Upright. Eyes Slightly narrowed.
Circling around and running forward and back in an invitation to play. or relaxed. SUBORDINATE (SUBMISSIVE) Ears Down. Vocalization None. belly up. Excited panting. . teeth covered. BEGINNING STAGE Ears Perked-up. Turning to catch sounds. Body Normal. Tail Up. Lying on back.Ears Perked-up and forward. rear end up in the air. Mouth/teeth Mouth closed or slightly open with teeth covered. Vocalization None. Excited bouncing and jumping up and down. or front end lowered. forward-pointing. ALERT Perked-up. front paw raised. Possible emptying of anal scent glands. Body Lowered to ground. Mouth/teeth Lips pulled way back from teeth in a "grin". Ears CHASE. between legs. Tail Wagging vigorously Vocalization Excited barking. whites showing. Soft play-growling. Body Relaxed. Eyes Open normally or wide. worried whining. or low. Possibly standing on tiptoe. Possible yelping/whimpering in fear. Mouth/teeth Mouth relaxed and slightly open. Sparkly/merry-looking. Low whine or alarm bark. flattened against head. Possible urine leaking/dribbling. Nuzzling or licking other animal or person on face. Tail Down. Eyes Wide open. wiggling in a play-bow. Possibly wagging. Eyes Narrowed to slits or wide open. Slightly Dominant position.
Tail Rigid. Standing very tall in an aggressive or dominant stance. Shivering. Very alert. Mouth/teeth Slightly opened mouth. . Mouth/teeth Mouth closed or slightly open. Mouth/teeth Mouth slightly open. Tail Extended straight out from body. Eyes Wide open. Body Tense. Body Tense. Excited panting.Eyes Wide open. Held straight out from body. Up or straight out from body. Possible drooling. poised to run. Vocalization Low. Body Tense. GUARDING Ears Perked-up. BEGINNING STAGE Ears Back. Hackles up. Crouched low in a predatory position. Vocalization None. assertive growl or grunt. Hackles may be up. Legs bent. Eyes Wide open. Mouth/teeth Mouth slightly open. Rigid. Growl. Vocalization None. Possible yelp or whine. Sometimes fluffed. alert. Possibly rolled back with whites showing. Snapping or gnashing of teeth. staring. Tail Low or between legs. Low. Forward. Stiffened and fluffed. Eyes Wide open. Vocalization Loud alert bark. Snarl. teeth bared. DOMINANT Ears Up straight or forward. Tail FLIGHT. poised to run. Body Very tall posture.
say them twice and they mean something completely different. Eyes Wide open.PREDATORY Alert. Body Rigid. the command isn’t ‘sit’.. Held forward or backward to catch sounds. Ears To command your dog. Tail Straight and low. While the owner fumes about stubbornness and laziness. We are so conditioned to respond to humans that we forget that animals do not think of words as we do. Some dogs are even capable of understanding "three-peats" such as "sit-sit-sit" or "stay-stay-STAY!!!" One of the most common training errors is repeating commands. the dog’s comment would probably be. it might surprise you to know that dogs also recognize double words. "Look .. staring. If Spike does not "sit" at the first command. such as "sit-sit". Vocalization None (so the prey won't be alerted). focusing. Quietly sniffing the air. Low to ground. The primary reason for this confusion is that most people take language for granted. we automatically say the word again ("sit-sit"). Say them once and they have a particular meaning. While we humans are quite comfortable translating this type of "double talk". we inadvertently teach the dog to wait patiently until the second or third command before he is required to respond. ready to spring forward. Mouth/teeth Mouth closed. They know words as sounds that are connected to particular situations.but there are rules.. Over a series of repetitions. it’s ‘sit-sit!’ I’m just waiting for you to finish the sentence!" The ironic part of this exchange is that both participants are convinced the other is mistaken.. "down-down" and "come-come". boss. .
while scolding identifies those behaviors that should be avoided.Our mistake is that we assume that dogs speak "language" and that commands "cause" behaviors to happen. Just as scolding must be quick to be precise. such as turning "car" into "car-o". For instance.they will probably try to pronounce the word in an exaggerated manner and in sometimes add a foreign sounding ending to it. He knows he can ignore this sound because a single "no" has little or no consequence tied to it. If increased loudness fails. a series of "Good-boy-good-boy-gooddog" will capture both behaviors. While repeating commands tends to erode good behavior. still convinced that the first word was not heard. Repeating the words that identify good or bad behavior does not necessarily give them added emphasis but does slow them down. third "NO!" that he must pay attention to. or a dog. This makes it difficult for the dog to know which behavior "caused" the praise or scolding. Often this second command is spoken louder than the first. In this case. Instead of praising just the sit. long winded praise can be equally inefficient. they automatically say it again louder. the time to say "No!" is at the instant he starts to jump.praise and corrections. All thoughts of jumping and Alice are long forgotten. we automatically repeat the word on the assumption that the person did not hear us. If you are in the habit of saying "no-no-NO!" Floyd has already done the deed and escaped before you got to the end of your double talk. saying it twice or twenty times will make no difference. To test this reasoning. If a person. and much louder. Floyd heard the first "no" as he started to jump on Alice. does not know an association between the word and its meaning. . When the first word brings no response. Dogs listen for praise to tell them which behaviors bring treats and affection. It is the all important. watch the way tourists attempt to communicate with people who do not speak their language. By the time he hears the third "NO!" he is racing down the hallway and thinking of darting out the doggie door. there are two other types of repeated words that can seriously effect a dog’s learning potential . If Floyd decides to sit momentarily for Aunt Alice and then jumps on her. Both praise and scolding are dependent upon good timing to be effective. if floyd likes to jump on Aunt Alice. If we are talking to another human and receive no response to a simple request.
praise him and give a treat. turn your back and walk away from him. Soon he will perform the behavior instantly. Without a fast signal to identify good behavior. Now give the command "sit. Merely recognizing the problem is half the battle.Floyd’s owner has mistakenly reinforced the jump as well. Floyd will not wait for the second one. praise him and give him the treat. so that Floyd knows what you are offering. Reducing praise and scolding to a minimum is an even easier task. walk away and try it again. If Floyd simply stands like a zombie. Give him another 30 seconds. don't panic. the dog will soon be convinced that the entire sequence is appropriate. on the first command." and bite your lip after you say the word. Try to work as you always do. if not. If the dog sits within the time limit. get a package of doggie treats at the store. If you are fairly caught giving commands twice. After you say "good". The quickest way to tell if you suffer from a case of "double talk" is to have a friend listen as you train your dog. After several attempts at getting the dog to respond to only one command. wait a second before you start including the normal excited and affectionate praise. By waiting a second you are prepared to withhold the more powerful reinforcers if Floyd switches to an incorrect response. The tendency to repeat oneself is so deeply ingrained that most people are unaware that they do it. . First. Offer a small treat to your dog. Wait for 30 seconds to allow your dog to realize that you aren't going to say it twice. You friend may surprise you by distinctly hearing you repeat a command even though you could swear that you only said it once. If he does it. A very shocked Floyd is most likely to quickly follow you to get another chance for the treat. Start by developing the habit of saying the word "good" at the instant your dog performs a behavior correctly. Avoiding the problem of "double talk" takes some concentration and observation. Once he realizes that you aren't going to repeat yourself. you can give him less and less time to perform the behavior before his failure "causes" you to go away. Ask him to sit again.
What happens when the breeder walks in to the room and starts calling them? They all rush out to greet her (it's usually a her).In nature. They reach the park gates and he calls the pup. . Picture a litter of well reared pups. programmes with his fellow dogwalkers. The owner is busy comparing notes on the previous day's T. usually both. Pretty soon this pup learns that you don't dash up to humans any more because if you do they drag you over to something on the carpet you can't remember doing then unceremoniously dump you outside. falling over themselves to be the first to get attention.V. a dog rarely has a second chance to respond to the sound of a bear or the smell of a rabbit. a pup learns that the entrance of a human means food or play. To utilize you pet's best attributes. reacts angrily to the mess and decides to discipline the pup for his misbehaviour in the misguided belief that he is housetraining the wretched animal. Good breeders. So the pup comes when called because he knows something pleasant is going to happen. He is allowed to run free and finds exciting new friends to play with. A few weeks later the same pup is out in the park. if they know what you are going to call your pup may even have him dashing over at the sound of his name by the time you call to collect him. He will point to what he sees as the guilty expression on the pup's face. Recalls in particular (coming when called). But what about the pup who is left alone for hours and out of sheer boredom chews the furniture and probably relieves himself all over the carpet? The owner comes in. They certainly don't start out that way. What he is actually seeing is fear or apprehension. Your dog is descended from animals that must respond instantly to the slightest hint of danger or safety. avoid using double-talk for commands or reinforcers. It's really not necessary to say it twice twice. So why does this promising start frequently peter out? I think the answer is the owner's attitude. In the litter.
the owner to teach him that coming when called is something that is fun but not optional.K. After all. possibly even a tiny morsel of food if he has ignored a particular distraction on the way. A pup should never be placed in a situation where he learns to do anything you will later not want him to do. I usually call my pups with my other dogs around right from the start. He runs off the next time with the owner in hot pursuit. Pup thinks this is a wonderful game. That is several training opportunities which should not be wasted. But he might also decide not to bother if he gets a better offer. But he should be told off if he chews or soils the carpet shouldn't he? My view is that he should not. Built in distraction training is just too good an opportunity to waste. a dog will come automatically if he loves you won't he? He might. Small pups are usually fed several times a day at first. As soon as Fido has learned his name he is going to come running when there is food in the offing. O. In there the pup can do what he likes and is safe when I cannot give him my complete attention. At first he may be caught by a passer-by but soon he learns that humans are not to be trusted. Soon the pup learns that the owner calling him in the park means end of playtime. playing with him and frequently . I spend as much time as I can with my pup. I keep my pups in a large pen with plenty of toys until their teething days are over. is put back on his lead and they go home. It is up to you. this is the worst case scenario and there aren't too many people around these days who are stupid enough to teach their pup to fear them as in the example I have just quoted. In between he can be called for a game with his favourite toy. With a young pup this is very easy. He is growing now and his long legs give him plenty of speed so he easily outruns the owner. talking to him.At first the pup returns. But how many people actually take time to teach their pups how to come when called. You simply carry on where the breeder left off.
sometimes I call just for the sake of it. He is praised for the positive things and the negatives are avoided. Or you might acquire an older dog who has not been trained properly. For all practical purposes it is not necessary if a pup is well socialised except for competition training. I wait for him to start sniffing then silently duck behind a tree. Socialising with other dogs in a controlled environment is something else which helps to establish good recall habits. even the adults. frequently when we are out. Not all pups are well reared and socialised by the breeder. But that is in an ideal world. One or two repetitions of this is usually all it takes to train the young pup that it is in his best interests to pay attention to what the pack leader is doing. In such . The next step is to take the pup out on his own away from the house. I call my dogs. A good training club is worth its weight in gold. Pretty soon the young pup is going to wonder where I am and may start to panic. So he learns right from the start that coming to me when called is something that is always going to be worthwhile. This method is very successful in establishing a reliable recall for later on when the pup is more independent. Sometimes the lead goes on for the end of the walk. I have not mentioned teaching the recall on lead. sometimes for training. In these cases you will have to make use of the lead to teach a reliable recall. The key is to call the dog in a random fashion.rewarding him for coming when called or any other action I might want him to perform later on. I can then appear. I would never leave a young pup in a situation where he might be able to do something undesirable. For a start it is not fair on other people to inflict your unruly dog on them. It is no good letting your dog run free in public if he does not have a reliable recall. call him in a pleasant tone and reward him for coming. You might have to work hard to overcome a less than auspicious start. not just when he is going to be put back on the lead to be taken home.
You are not being unfair to your dog if you do not allow him his freedom unless he has earned the right to it. He cannot run away if he is restrained so you can tell him he is a bad dog and quietly reel him in. Training tips This method of housetraining is focused on preventing “accidents” instead of waiting for accidents to happen. or worse. But the minute he starts to move in your direction he must be rewarded for the effort.cases I believe that a dog should be exercised on a long line or flexi-lead until he learns to return ten times out of ten and for some time after that. It would be extremely unkind of you to allow him the freedom to run off and be killed under a car. If you are the pack leader in your household and you have a good bond with your dog. The goal is to make it easy for the puppy to do the right thing in the first place. You will end up with a dog with a reliable recall who is a pleasure to own. Eventually if you are patient the penny will drop. YOU play the most important part in the success or failure of this method you must be patient. rewarding thing he can do. Training in this way is faster and more effective than punishing the dog for mistakes. . Always be fair and never tell him off for something when he does come back. Just remember to cultivate a welcoming tone and make it worth your dog's while to come back to you. He will learn that coming to you is the must fun. cause the death of someone else because of something you could have prevented. however tempting it might be. you should not have too many problems with the recall.
Dogs have to go poddy when. Spending extra time and effort now will pay off in a big way. Just like a small child. This method also requires the use of a dog crate or at least. Dogs & puppies like to be clean and to sleep in a clean area.before they go to sleep . within 1/2 hour after eating . All dogs do best when kept to a routine schedule. you can use this method to start fresh just as you would with a puppy. they wake up in the morning or after a nap. confined area for the pup to stay in when he can't be supervised.determined and reliable for it to work. here are some essential housetraining facts: Adult dogs can be housebroken in the same way as puppies. secure and out of trouble. If you already own an adult dog with housetraining problems. A crate isn't cruel! It's your dog's own private room where he can rest and stay safe. your puppy needs to be protected from hurting himself and destroying your furniture. . A crate will make the job so much easier! The first few weeks of owning a puppy are some of the hardest and most important. Don't blame the puppy if you're lazy! Before you start.. Puppies have limited bladder control.. If a dog and especially a puppy is not allowed to relieve itself at those times. a small.
The sniffing is instinct — he's looking for a place that's already been used. If you're observant. They usually don't know they're going to “go” until the moment they do! It's not realistic to expect them to tell you ahead of time. Just assume that he does and put him outside.) Using a dog crate will be more effective. If he can't find one. the puppy will have room to use one end as a bathroom. have limited bladder control and reflexes. just pick up the schedule at an appropriate place. he'll start one! By preventing accidents in the house. you'll teach him that the only appropriate bathroom is the one outside! Ideally. under three months of age. Set up a dog crate or small.it will most likely have an accident. you're reading this before you've brought your new puppy home. Don't wait for the dog to “tell” you that it has to go out. confined area (the smaller the better. you'll see that a puppy who's looking for a place to go poddy will suddenly circle about while sniffing the floor. The size of the crate is important — if it's too large. Housetraining baby puppies Baby puppies. . If you already have your puppy.
stern voice. Put the crate where he isn't shut away from the family. The crate is intended to be his sleeping and feeding place and is where he should be when you can't keep a close eye on him. Eventually he'll settle down and sleep which is what crates are for! If you give a tempting treat every time you put the dog in his crate. If you give him the run of the house at this age. If he gets really obnoxious.If you've bought a crate for him to “grow into. Don't give in to his complaining or tantrums! If you're sure he isn't hungry or has to go poddy. he'll soon look forward to going in. If he must be left alone while you're at work. a baby gate across the doorway is preferable to closing the door and isolating your puppy.” you can also get dividers to reduce the inner space while he's small. reach inside the crate. then a larger crate is okay. If you're using a confined area instead. give him a little shake by the scruff of his neck and say NO in a deep. Also in the crate should be a water dish (you can get one that attaches to the side of the crate and is harder to spill). Your puppy might not like the crate at first. ignore his yowling. Put a stack of newspapers at one end for him to use when you can't be home to let him out. you can expect accidents! . sleeping pad and toys.
you can play with him for an hour. Don't wait for him to tell you that he has to go! Feed the puppy his supper in his crate. others may take half an hour.Dogs instinctively keep their sleeping areas clean. walk around the yard encouraging him to follow you. Once he's developed better control. so to speak! . he won't dirty his crate if he can help it. he won't need the newspapers unless you're going to be gone all day. Plan on taking the puppy outside every two hours (at least) while he's awake. Walking tends to get things moving. Wait for him to have a bowel movement before bringing him back in. Puppy's first night home Get off on the right foot at the beginning! Carry the puppy from your car to the yard. Don't let him out for half an hour and when you do. If he's being slow. If you've allowed him to go poddy when he needs to. When he does. carry him outside to poddy before you do anything else. Set him on the grass and let him stay there until he poddies. Change the papers several times a day if they've been soiled. Some pups get their jobs done quickly. tell him how wonderful he is! After bringing the pup inside.
Daytime schedule Establish a regular schedule of poddy trips and feedings. Carry him outside to poddy. . he'll probably have an accident before he gets there. If you let him walk to the door. Part of this training method is psychological you want the puppy to feel grass under his feet when he goes to the bathroom. First thing in the morning before you have your coffee carry the puppy outside. If you play with him. If he cries during the night.Always take the puppy outside first thing when you let him out of the crate and always CARRY the puppy to the door!! This is important. he probably has to go out. He can then come in and play for an hour. Puppies seem to have a reflex peeing action that takes affect the moment they step out of the crate onto your carpeting. take the pup outside before bedtime. he might decide he doesn't want to go back to sleep! Puppies usually sleep through the night within a few days. then put him back in the crate with a minimum of cuddling. not your carpeting! After another short play period. then tuck him into his crate for the night. This helps you to control the times he has to go out and prevent accidents in the house.
(Puppies are notorious for finding out of the way corners to have accidents in keep him in an area where you can watch him). nap. Then carry him back outside for poddy. For the first month or so.Feed breakfast in the crate and don't let him out again for a half hour. use baby gates or close doors to keep him out of rooms he shouldn't go in. If you give him too much freedom too soon. meal in crate. Now he can have another inside playtime for an hour or so. The playtimes can be lengthened as the puppy gets older and is more reliable. take him outside again then tuck him into his crate for a nap. he'll probably make a mistake. you'll be feeding three or four meals per day. playtime. meal. Don't give him free run of the house. poddy. Repeat the same procedure throughout the day: poddy outside first thing in the morning. poddy. Eventually the puppy will be letting you know when he needs to go out but remember if you ignore his request or don't move quickly he'll have an accident! I know this sounds like a lot of work and it is! The results of all this runnin' in and out will pay off in a wellhousebroken puppy and clean carpets. poddy. poddy. Puppies usually have a bowel movement after each meal so give him time to accomplish it. After playtime. one hour playtime. . etc. playtime.
you're teaching it that it's not acceptable to use the house.Keep in mind that some breeds are easier to housetrain than others and how the puppy was raised before it came to you has an affect. By only allowing the pup to relieve itself outside. Get the puppy outside often enough and don't leave papers out “just in case. Pet store puppies who were allowed to use wire-bottom crates have less inclination to keep their crates clean. Also. it will just take a little longer. Using newspapers will override this training. it's a necessity. However. . too.you can train them. keep to the regular housetraining schedule when you're at home. A word about paper-training: It seems harmless to leave papers about “just in case” and for us who work all day.” Keep your dog's yard picked up and free of old stools. Puppies that were raised in garages or other large areas where they could “go” wherever will also be a little more difficult. Don't give up though . be aware that many puppies get the notion that going poddy NEAR the papers is as good as going ON them! If you must use newspapers when you're gone. paper-training your pup will make the overall job of housetraining that much harder and take longer.
You can either walk them longer or keep them confined until they really gotta go. Start from the beginning just like a puppy. get them outside every three-to-four hours in between those times. don't give them the run of the . would you? Picking up stools helps you keep tabs on your dog's health as well. Housetraining older dogs You can use a modified puppy schedule to train an unhousetrained dog or one that's having housetraining problems. stress or digestive upset. Until they're reliable. If you could only move about in a small area. keeping the area clean is even more critical. Just like a puppy. after meals and last thing at night. you wouldn't want to lie next to the toilet. Loose. Adopted older dogs that have always had freedom may be unwilling to have a bowel movement when on a leash. If left to become filthy. Stools should be firm and fairly dry. use a crate and put them on a schedule. health problems. sloppy stools can be an indication of worms. they'll refuse to use it and do their business in the house instead! If your dog has to be tied up when he's outside.Many dogs choose an area to use as a bathroom. An older dog can be expected to control itself for longer periods provided you take it outside at critical times first thing in the morning.
use the same precaution you would for a child. This is particularly important in a swimming pool or in a lake with an uneven bottom. Safe Water Fun Safety precautions will let your dog enjoy the water with you. Then guide it to where it can always exit the water safely. . On the water. so teaching them how to behave in it is a must. Many dogs are sensibly wary about entering water because they have no idea how to swim. Teach a dog to swim by supporting it beneath its chest until it gets to where its feet reach the bottom. Introduce a dog of any age to water play carefully. A dog must be taught where it can get out. whether it be in a pool. remove its collar to prevent underwater entanglement.house and keep them in a crate or small area if you can't supervise them. You can give them more freedom as they become more reliable. When your dog is in the water. Most dogs like playing in water. One of the best things about summer is cooling off in the water. These reckless characters can drown just as easily as the overly cautious ones. The ones that need even more vigilant care are the daredevil dogs that show no fear at all. a lake or at the seashore. too.
A squirming. In approaching a dog being walked on leash by an adult. Relaxed ears and tail and a smile (easier to see on smooth-coated dogs than on hairy ones) are good indications of a friendly pooch. frantic canine passenger is no fun in a boat. The way children greet strange dogs is not just a matter of manners. For this they must have adult supervision. Dog Meeting Kids Kids should follow certain rules around strange dogs. it's a matter of safety. indicated by a lowering of all body posture. Standing up over a dog is poor canine manners. Steer clear of dogs off leash. safe ways to say hello. Let the dog become accustomed to wearing the jacket before you set sail.and put a life jacket on any dog you plan to take aboard a boat. Read the dog's body language. Some dogs react to young children with submissiveness. . Whether you're traveling by land or by sea. ask first if your child may say hello. take food anda supply of drinking water for the dog. so crouch down next to the dog and child. Toddlers and small children who have not been raised around dogs need to be taught proper.
destructive and makes a general nuisance out of itself to attract attention. sure." put your hand over the child's for the first gentle pat or two. Speak quietly and calmly so the child doesn't react with screams or squeals (which any dog would consider very poor manners). Ask the dog's name and whether your child may pet the dog.Put your own hand out. palm up. it becomes ill-behaved and antisocial. and both use their mouths to explore their environments. but that's the owner's prerogative). Some dogs that are perfectly friendly don't like to be touched by strangers (a behavioral disorder that could possibly be corrected. for the dog to sniff. Boffo loves kids. Dogs need to learn how to behave around people. Even if the answer is "Yes. Then put the child's hand in yours and again let the dog sniff. It becomes bored. Dogs and Biting Parents must supervise interactions between children and dogs. Either integrate your dog into the family or give it to a family that will. If isolated long enough. Isolating a dog in the back yard is a great way to drive it crazy. The Family Pet Incorporating the dog into the family is necessary for good behavior. . Puppies are like babies: both need love and attention. Children.
Depending on the training and temperament of the dog. It relaxes. But the reaction of human babies is just the opposite. faced with the dominant body language of an older dog. seeking submission. the infant struggles and screams. A puppy. The dog reacts instinctively. therefore. . it is a form of body language. boils down to a basic difference in behavior. That animal action/reaction is a prime example of why young children are sometimes bitten by the family dog. A nursing puppy that bites its mother elicits a quick response. so the dog instinctively hardens its grip. urinates or rolls over on its back--all submissive gestures that the older dog acknowledges. The mother takes the pup's head in her mouth and holds firmly until the pup relaxes in submission. Canine biting serves other purposes as well. For instance. responding to pack-driven dominance and submission to establish and maintain a pecking order within the group. small children in the family may be treated as littermates (equals) or seen at the bottom of the totem pole. The biting problem.Puppies grip with their teeth because they don't have hands. drops to the ground. submits. If a dog puts its mouth on an infant's arm or leg. Dogs kept as companion animals transfer their instinctual view of the pack to the family.
"Hyperactive" Puppy Puppies are naturally active and they need attention. Many dogs are put up for adoption because the original owner feels the dog is "hyperactive. It's just a normal puppy's need for physical and mental activity.. The reason for giving up on the dog (and blaming the failure on "hyperactivity") is because no one fully explained that a puppy can't be left alone for 10 hours and then be expected to snooze all evening on the sofa.'' In reality.Dogs that have had little contact with children invariably put them at the bottom of the pack... The Basic Sit and more. This misunderstanding of a dog's life has led to an increase in cats as pets because they better fit this lifestyle... these dogs are the ones originally purchased to be companion animals to people who work long hours and lead otherwise solitary lives. There's nothing hyper about the pup's exuberant greeting behavior.! . Parents must be aware of this to retain their positions as dominant pack members and to ensure that child and dog behave appropriately with each other.
give the command. The dog should follow the food with his nose. the sit was taught with a pop up on the lead and a push down on the dog's rump. To teach a sit. place him near a wall so he will back into the wall. They are anticipating a reward for doing something correctly. The position of your hand in relation to the dog's nose is very important. do this slowly. . you are holding it too high. mostly involving food. today's trainers use inducive methods. The food you use should be tastier than the stuff the dog gets for free.In the old days. Slowly make an arc with your food hand from the dog's nose toward the tail. Remember. I've found that food vastly improves the attitude of most dogs. Lower the food and try again. I use a piece of food (raisin size) to lure the dog into a sit. rather than watching out for a correction for doing something wrong. As he starts to sit. If he isn't following the food. If the dog scoots backward away from your arc. Hold the food an inch or less above the dog's nose. More and more.
when the dog is starting to do the exercise correctly. Later on. For more information on this. click. Then. Click. First teach the dog about the c. As your dog is learning.a special word you don't normally use in conversation."sit. You can work on the "stay" part later. feed every time you get a correct response. I found this helpful in pinpointing for the dog the exact moment he is doing something right. feed. click and feed.r. you'll switch to a variable schedule of reinforcement to maint ain correct behavior. . read "Don't Shoot the Dog" by Karen Pryor. feed. The Sit To get your dog to sit up on its hind legs. or a plastic or metal clicker. Raise the criteria as the dog improves. only bring your hand up higher. feed. place your dog with his rear against a corner in your home.) Your dog should know the sit command before you teach this variation. You also can use a conditioned reinforcer -. (The corner walls will help support him as he learns to use his back muscles to sit up. ("Yes!") a tongue cluck." When his rear hits the ground. Start with the food arc you used to teach the sit.
You also can play with your dog back words . Problems with the Obedience Sit You obedience types may en joy the following lists four components of a good sit during heeling: the dog is paying attention the dog is in heel position the dog knows the cue to halt and sit If your dog is forging the halts.When you play with him you put the toy to the ground . Most catch on quickly though. Continue to use the corner until your dog gains expertise. Some dogs find this very difficult and some are unable to do it at all. You can raise the criteria for this exercise as your dog ga ins experience.Than go with your hand down between his legs in a straight line to the ground.hold stil. I do not teach this exercise to puppies. You say down at the moment he is down.when he is down. You can put your dog in to the down position in several way's. Fast Down.stop play. and I don't let any dog do very many repetitions at one time.And gif him his food. probably one (or more) of these four things is missing.And then a little bit forward with your hand. Reward efforts to bring front feet off the floor.You may want to support the dog's chest with one hand.Put the tibbet against his chest . You can help the dog with a little tibbet food from the sit in to the down position. .you can play further.
steps up and back. So the more time you devote to te aching heel position. So how do you start? With a puppy it is easy. After all she (they usually are) can't call out several names at once. side steps in both directions. Have you noticed how all the pups in a healthy well reared litter dash to the breeder when she . But watch about the rules of competision! Fixing Problems As we all know. left and right turns. The first thing you need to do before you can start any form of dog training is get your dogs attention. Teach the dog he can come to heel position from anywhere. It's just important to have one.To prevent forging at the halts. And even experienced dogs need to have heel position pointed out to them again and again. It's a difficult concept for the dog to grasp. This might sound simple but it is the most difficult thing to achieve. you must cue the dog that you are halting. Some exercises that will improve the dog's obedience sits are left and right pivots. This can be an upper body cue or a break step. It will come in handy in the ring. You may think you are the world's most interesting person but the chances are that your pride and joy may be more interested in what he can sniff with his nose rather than your words of wisdom. it is amazing how long it takes to teach dogs correct heel position. In the litter the breeder will have made some noise to attract the pups attention to the food dish. the less remedial work you'll have to do later.
never when you want to tell him off. is a great motivator for many greedy pups. Wait until he is looking for something to do then call him. Try not to sound angry when you are delighted with him. Have a special toy that the pup likes and keep it only for training sessions. The actual words you use will mean nothing . Small puppies cannot pay attention to anything for very long so be prepared to accept just a few seconds at first. Toys are good. carefully used. Now you have the start of his attention training. Don't make the mistake of calling him when he is busy sniffing some interesting smell he has found in the garden. Produce the toy and ask him to watch. It isn't. When you carry your pup home he will be a bit overawed at first but use a familiar key word followed by his new name and he will soon start to respond. Use his name when you call him for his dinner. But learn how he reacts and don't try to make him pay attention for a second longer than his limit. He can have his own playpen for the times when you can't be with him so you don't have to keep telling him off for chewing the carpet etc.appears. Spend as much time as you can playing with the pup. Err on the side of caution.but the tone is all important. But make him earn his titbits. Learn to cultivate this. food or no food. Later on when you are training him to walk properly on the lead you can use his name to get his attention but keeping it is a different matter. If he gives you his full attention for a second . Food. It must have a meaning for the dog or it is wasted. But how do you keep his attention? The human voice is a very underrrated underused tool. You will soon have his complete attention. As he grows older he will be able to concentrate for longer and longer periods. Some people think that it is good enough just to throw food at a dog. His name must be used only when you want his attention -for the rest of his life.
Only when you have that can any serious training begin. the signal exercise requires a confident dog. Like most of the exercises in utility. Don't ever be so predictable that your pup knows exactly what you are going to do next. Dogs who are worried about the signals often show that by lagging and dragging around the ring. If not you are wasting your time. you are likely to undermine your dog's confidence. Advanced Obedience / The Signal Exercise a Confident dog. If you move too quickly. They know what's coming and they don't like it. done that myself) is to increase distance too quickly. Try for another second the next time and gradually build up. The handler goes too far away and the dog becomes confused. let him learn that his time with you is the best thing that could happen to him and he will start to give you his complete attention. Watch his eyeballs. After all. Play with him as much as you can. Prevent this by helping your dog achieve a solid understanding of signals. If his eyes are on you he is concentrating. That will just teach him to keep only half of his mind on you. break off and play.am I using the same signal I have used every other time? * have I increased the distance (even moving a few inches makes a difference)? . it is your responsibility to help the dog learn the exercise well so that he is solid and confident. The biggest mistake most people make (been there.or two. examine the following: * is my signal consistent . This will take its toll in bad heeling before the signals begin. Anytime it appears that your dog is slow to respond to your signal.
or hand with palm toward the dog.right arm held straight from the shoulder at right angles to the body (in front). move closer. as long as it is one continuous motion. The arm should not extend to the side. Whatever you choose. Some trainers alternate hands for signals. then a come. If the dog looks away and doesn't look back quickly. . moved across in front of the dog's muzzle toward the trainer. Sit . sit from a down. the palm then pulled straight to the chest. Let the dog look away and when he looks back (wait him out) make a big deal out of it and jackpot.* is the background confusing my dog? * can my dog see the signals .left hand. please remember that one continuous motion is required. The latter is called a windmill down signal. palm facing the dog. as if lifting the dog from a down into a sit. Reward the dog so that he looks on distractions as an opportunity to earn a big reward instead of fearing them as an occasion to be corrected. Then a down from a stand.is there a vision problem? Consider jackpotting (several pieces of yummy treats at one time) for good attention. Finish . dropped straight down in front of his nose Come . Consider backchaining.the arm is brought palm up from a natural position at the side to a position outstretched in front. then a come.a circling motion of the left or right hand which indicates heel position and duplicates on a small scale the path followed by the dog on a return to heel. You may use any signal you devise. Down . or by bringing the arm straight up over the head and then returning it to hang by the side. Some carry two shirts to shows and wear the one that contrasts most with the background wall.may be given either with the arm raised overhead and dropped. Standard Signals Heel . Start with the dog in a sitting position and then do a come signal. I angle my hand out slightly so the dog can see it separate from my body. arced forward beyond the dog's nose Stay . palm forward. When that is secure teach a sit from a down. because it can cause confusion with directed jumping.left or right hand.
He loves retreiving and is really enthusiastic to fetch just anything.Most of the things that you've probably tried without success.5 month old who had the same problem to. I'd manage to get it away from her very easily.Try with a thicker cross bar and thinner ends with good ground clearance or try weighting one end so that he has to keep a good hold to avoid dropping it.The dumbbell drops.c. I tried with a b. but being such a large dog. Try leaving some small titbits by the door so that when some one calls and they go inside yoy throw the titbits on the floor.Afterwards. A 12 month old border collie bitch who is having problems getting her to pick up the dumbbell properly. She soon discovered that if she was holding it in the middle. puppy . she could hold onto it quite well. It could be your dumbell has insufficient clearance from the ground for you’r border collie to pick it up in the middle easily and he does not like banging his chin on the ground. but if she was holding it by the end. Hopefully the dog being a labrador will be too keen to clean up the floor than jump . it wasn't a problem to teach the present and get her to give to me nicely. She made up her own mind very quickly that it was in her interest to hold it in the middle. tried several different shapes of dumbbells but he always picks it up on its side. this cannot happen. especially with small children. so I decided to play with her and the dumbell and play tuggy games with it. She do 'holds' with him several times a day but as soon as she throw the dumbbell he picks it up on the side which is leading to drops. She is only being friendly. Jumping up They have a five month old border collie who has a bad habit of jumping up at people.
tell them to completely ignore him when he jumps up. She is doing very all in all exercises except for the search and bring of the dumbell. This is also applicable for visitors. Get them to fold their arms and look up into the air. When you have a solid retrieve with a toy. then you can put the two together. You teach the present seperately. Good luck Does your dog bring anything back to you? She have a dog with 3 years old. then swap it for something ie a tit bit. When he is good at it you make him sit before you give him any attention. Sometimes you can run away backwards enticing him to bring toy to you all in a great GAME. that he is not giving something up but gets rewarded for it. You obviously dont do this violently just so that he knocks himself. This apparently is a real snub to them. you can introduce a dubbell. She’s trying to do the pre-beginners in obedience this year. You can do this by enticing him to hold the toy.up. This can be done with yourself when you come through the door. so dog is always being rewarded for returning and giving up the toy. Then throw the toy just a little way. He must believe its all good fun. Do not give in to his attention seeking until you are ready to do so and only when he is sitting. You can also try raising you knee as he jumps and when he lands he hits his chest on your knee. again little by little. When she frow the dumbbell she go for it but she dont pick it up and bring to me.Also you can try doing a sodid sit stay. entice him to bring it (don't expect a present at the beginning) take it with great joy and give something in return. When you have a solid retrieve and when you have a seperate solid present without any article. it should be enjoyable. a tit but or throw another toy. Don't make it all formal. If you try to correct the present when the dog . Tip The best way is to get your dog used to bringing toys back to you first.
.isn't solid on the retrieve he will think you are correcting him for bringing the item back to you. Get that bit right first and always as a fun thing to do.
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