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TEPS FOR REMOVING REAR ASHTRAY & CUP HOLDER, CENTER ARMREST, E-BRAKE CONSOLE, FRONT ASHTRAY, LOWER CENTER

CONSOLE AND GLOVE BOX The following outlines the procedure for removing the above items on a MKIV Jetta and Golf/GTI. The procedure was based on a 99.5 Jetta GLS VR6 with a manual transmission - it may be slightly different on later-models cars (those with no rear cup holder) and all models with automatic transmission. Please do these procedures at your own risk and be ready to make small adjustments while doing them. Also, please be observant while removing parts so that they go back together correctly. - To remove the rear ashtray and cupholder, follow steps 1 through 7. - To remove the center armrest, follow steps 8 through 10. - To remove the e-brake console, follow steps 1 through 17. - To remove the front ashtray, follow steps 18 through 24. - To remove the lower center console, follow steps 1 through 35. - To remove the glove box, follow steps 1 through 42. ____________________________________________________________________ STEPS: 1. Slide the driver's and front passenger's seats completely forward. 2. Open rear ashtray and remove red insert as shown in picture below.

3. Remove the two sides to the rear ashtray as shown in the picture below. Pry the top of the ashtray side off of the ashtray housing (1). Once this is done, pull upwards on the ashtray side (may have to pull hard) to remove it (2).

4. The picture below illustrates how the top and bottom of the ashtray sides are connected to the ashtray.

5. Remove the rear ashtray housing by carefully prying up the two tabs on each side with a screwdriver, as shown in the picture below. Be careful not to break the tabs while doing this - they are somewhat difficult to get off.

6. To remove the rear cup holder (if applicable), push down the two retaining tabs indicated by the arrows in the picture below.

7. Slide the rear cupholder out of the e-brake console as shown in the picture below.

8. Remove the driver's side of the armrest trim as shown in the picture below. First pull the top of the trim towards the driver's side (1) and then pull upwards at an angle to remove (2).

9. Be careful doing the above. The trim piece is held in by 6 tabs as shown in the picture below (arrows). I've removed this piece enough times that I've partially broken one of the tabs (red arrow). You can use a thin screwdriver protected by a thin rag to help ease the tabs out.

10. Remove the 13mm bolt in the picture below to remove the armrest. Once the bolt is out, you may need to wiggle the armrest back and forth to get it free - then move it up to remove.

11. Remove the two T20 Torx screws indicated by the arrows in the picture below.

12. Slide the driver's and front passenger's seats completely backward. Pry out the trim tab on both sides of the e-brake console indicated by the arrow in the picture below.

13. This is easily done with a screwdriver, as shown below.

14. Remove the T20 Torx screws behind the tabs, as shown below.

15. Pull up the emergency brake handle as high as it will go - the higher it is, the easier the next step will be. Remove the e-brake console by (1) raising the rear of the console relatively high (see picture below for approximate position) and then (2) sliding the front of the console out from under the lower center console (where the shifter is). When the front of the e-brake console is free, slide the console up and over the e-brake handle. This may take a few attempts - it's somewhat difficult to free the front of the e-brake console from under the lower center console.

17.I should have done some detailing before I took the pics. The picture below shows the position of the e-brake microswitch. 18.16. The image below shows the 4 tabs (yellow arrows) and two posts (red arrows) that make it difficult to release the front of the e-brake console from under the lower center console. (I apologize for the detritus . Slide open the front ashtray lid and remove the red insert seen in the picture below.) . It just clips onto the e-brake support and can be easily removed.

Be careful to only pry the tabs up slightly as they break very easily . Remove the small trim piece just below the A/C controls (or Climatronic if that's what you have) by pulling it towards the rear of the car.19. . Remove the T20 Torx screw at the bottom of the front ashtray indicated by the arrow in the picture below. Using two screwdrivers (only one is shown). 21. While this step is not absolutely necessary. 20. it makes the removal of the front ashtray significantly easier. They only need to come up enough to clear the metal bracket underneath that the ashtray attaches to. pull the two tabs indicated by the arrows in the picture below up simultaneously (1) and slide the ashtray toward the front of the car (into the center console) approximately 1/2" (2). as shown below.I managed to break the left one in the picture.

22. making sure the two tabs on the edge of the ashtray clear the center console (1). Raise the rear edge of the ashtray upwards. Disconnect the power wire from the 12v outlet by pressing in the white tab (1) and pulling the harness connector out (2). 23. . as shown below. Once they're clear. as shown below. Disconnect the power wire for the 12v outlet from the ashtray by removing the wire retaining clip (red arrow) from the hole in the bottom of the ashtray (yellow arrow). as shown below. slide the ashtray towards the rear of the car and out of the center console (2). 24.

. 26. 27. Remove the T20 Torx screw from each side of the front of the lower center console in the footwell.25. as shown below. Slide the boot all the way up and out of the way and remove the foam piece that surrounds the shifter mechanism inside the lower center console. as shown below. Disconnect shifter boot from lower center console by pulling up on the rear edge of the boot support. as shown below.

so a flex-joint socket or something similar is needed to remove the nut. there is a good chance that there is a small metal bracket in the way. as shown below. 30. . attempt to slide the lower center console backward. I put a 10mm socket onto the nut and then used a socket driver which was not fully inserted into the socket and at an angle to remove the nut (see picture below). indicated by the yellow arrow in the image below. this bracket only interferes with the lower center console removal on early-model MKIV cars. If you are able to remove the lower center console without any difficulty. The lower center console sits directly above the nut. the bracket must be removed . Begin by removing the 10mm nut (right) which holds the bracket down. If you can't slide the lower center console backward easily. disconnecting it from the main (vertical) center console. goto step 34 (ignore steps 29 through 33 .they are not applicable to your model year).this is by far the most difficult step of the entire DIY. 29.28. From what I can gather. At this point. To remove the lower center console. 31.

you should be able to slide the lower center console backward (red arrow in picture below) and few inches and then up and over the shifter. 1. Once the bracket is out. raise the front of the bracket over the posts that the nuts were on and then slide the bracket backward and out from underneath the lower center console (yellow arrows in picture below). 34. . When both 10mm nuts are off.5" long which protrude from the front edge (red arrows in picture below points to driver's side finger). Do the same for the left bracket nut. This is difficult to do due to the limited amount of space under the console. The lower center console has two plastic fingers approx.32. which is shown below. 33.

Remove this screw if you plan on removing the glove box. 36. 38. open the glove box and pull the rear edge of the side dashboard panel out and then towards the rear of the car. These fingers insert into corresponding holes in the bottom of the main center console (yellow arrows). Remove the T25 Torx screw indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture below. The fingers (above) are normally bare plastic.35. Open the front passenger door. 37. but I needed one to hold the camera. This cured the problem. It's easier if you use two hands. The hidden/mystery 8th screw that holds the glove box in can also be seen in the above picture (indicated by the red arrow). as shown below.this caused a loud creaking when side pressure from my knee was applied to the lower center console while driving. . but I covered them with felt to prevent the fingers from rubbing in the holes . as shown below. I recommend that you do this if you have the lower center console removed.

push the wire back into the hole that the light occupies.39. as shown below. as shown below. Remove the three T20 Torx screws on the bottom of the glove box. Use a screwdriver to carefully pry out the rear of the light in the glove box(1) and then slide it towards the rear of the car to get it out (2). as shown below. Once disconnected. 40. 41. Disconnect the harness connector from the light by pulling the two tabs apart simultaneously. .

When reinstalling the rear cupholder. make sure to pry up the retaining tabs with a screwdriver. Remove the three T20 Torx screws on the top of the glove box. as shown below. make sure the front sides of the console slide into the brackets indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture below. . Pull the glove box out and disconnect the microswitch for the glove box light from near the driver's side hinge. The glove box can now be removed from the car. or the cupholder may slide back out. When reinstalling the lower center console. B..42.PART II . as shown below. REASSEMBLY TIPS A.. You'll see if/when you try it. this DIY is continued in another thread . NOTE: Due to length restrictions. It may take a few attempts to get both sides to catch.

Please disregard the discrepancies in continuity. If you follow the steps as written and only focus on the piece(s) of interest in the photos below. . you should have no problems completing all of the disassembly steps. do this procedure at your own risk. since the parts covered in PART II will be listed in the thread title. .e. Thanks to nimhrat for providing the photos associated with the removal of the OEM radio (I have an aftermarket headunit) and the flap on the new style front cupholder .To remove the brake light switch.ca for the image of the single-DIN support tray in step 54.To remove the radio and cubby hole (if applicable).To remove the driver's side trim.http://forums.I had to break the DIY up into two threads since the single-thread version far exceeded the 20000 character limit for a single post.they were taken from the following thread . please be observant while removing parts so that they go back together correctly. FRONT CUPHOLDER AND RADIO/HVAC TRIM CAGE The following outlines the procedure for removing the above items on a MKIV Jetta and Golf/GTI. Also. so items that should have already been removed may appear in some of the pictures. ____________________________________________________________________ . Please do these procedures at your own risk and be ready to make small adjustments while doing them. Here's a pic of everything put back together.vwvortex. follow steps 43 through 50. Some of the pictures in PART II of the DIY were taken without performing all of the steps in PART I (I had reassembled the items in PART I and did not want to disassemble them again).. BRAKE-LIGHT SWITCH. the above directions do work! Let me know if you have any questions.5 Jetta GLS VR6 with manual HVAC controls . This DIY (PART II) is a continuation of PART I .bc. It also helps make the DIY more searchable.com/zerothread?id=961773).If you are doing a trim swap and need to remove the radio/HVAC trim cage and swap the cupholder flap. The rest of the reinstallation should be the exact opposite of the above . RADIO/CUBBY HOLE. Also. Modified by VgRt6 at 8:37 PM 5-11-2004 II: STEPS FOR REMOVING DRIVER'S SIDE DASH TRIM. thanks to images@digitallattice.it may be slightly different on later-models cars and on those with CLIMATRONIC. . . I am not responsible for any mistakes in the procedure or those that you make while performing it. follow steps 51 and 52.follow steps 1 through 40 in reverse.C. follow steps 57 through 58. As always.To remove the front cupholder. follow steps 43 through 47. . complete PART I of this DIY and then follow steps 43 through 61. The procedure below was based on a 99. i.

as shown below (only one hand is shown since I needed the other one to take the picture). 45. 43.it is held on by 3 clips (yellow arrows) and 1 tab (red arrow). as outlined above. . Remove the driver's side dash trim by opening the fuse panel access door on the driver's side of the dashboard. as shown below. 44. The picture below shows why the fuse panel trim piece can be difficult to remove . perform the necessary steps from PART I. The switchblade key is useful for this step.STEPS: Before beginning PART II. Once the fuse panel access door is open pull off the trim piece which contains the door using both hands.

Remove the dash trim piece to the lower left of the steering wheel by removing the two T20 Torx screws at the bottom of the piece (indicated by the arrows in the picture below) and pulling the trim piece off of the dash. . Remove the two T20 Torx screws (indicated by the arrows in the picture below) and pull the trim piece off of the dash. 47. Remove the dash trim piece to the lower right of the steering wheel in the same manner.46.

. This step is not necessary for the further disassembly of the center console/radio/HVAC area. 50. Note that the edge of the panel closest to the front of the car is secured by two horizontal slots (white plastic). follow the directions I posted in the following DIY . DO NOT PRESS DOWN THE BRAKE PEDAL WHILE DOING THIS OR THE INTERNAL MECHANISM OF THE SWITCH (on the most recent versions) WILL BREAK!!! To install a new brake light switch (without destroying it as many people have). rotate the switch CCW (35-45° or 90°. remove the panel above the driver's side footwell by uncliping the front of the panel (pull the area indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture below toward the rear of the car) and then sliding the panel out from under the dash. To disconnect the brake light switch from it's harness connector. indicated the red arrows in the picture below. goto step 51 (ignore steps 49 and 50).Installing a new brake light switch (without destroying it!). This switch often malfunctions and need to be adjusted or replaced. The picture below shows the location of the brake light switch. push the two tabs (indicated by arrows in the picture below) toward each other and pull the harness connector off of the switch. which is indicated by the arrow.48. depending on which version you have) and slide it towards the rear of the car. If you want to access the brake light switch or anything else up under the dash. 49. To remove the switch from it's bracket. If you are not accessing the brake light switch or anything else up under the dash.

If you have a single-DIN radio and a cubby hole. If you have a stock VW radio.the directions for this depend on what type of radio you have. remove both units as described above and continue on with step 53. speaker and antenna connections behind the radio. insert the radio removal keys into the vertical slots at the edge of the radio face (indicated by the arrows in the picture below).51. remove the headunit per the manufacturer's instructions and also remove the DIN cage that the headunit slides into. 53.I can't remember) and then pull the tray out to disconnect the tab at the rear. If you have separate single-DIN radio and CD units. 54.and then continue on with step 53. The DIN support tray is secured with a clip on either side (yellow arrows in picture below) and a tab at the rear (red arrow in picture below). Remove the support tray between the two single-DIN slots. 52. Next pull the cubby hole unit toward the rear of the car to remove it .it's secured by a single tab at the back (edge closest to front of car) . press the keys in all the way while at the same time pulling back on the radio to slide it out of it's DIN slot. disconnect the power. Undo the clip on both sides of the tray (may need to use a screwdriver or other tool . If you have a double-DIN radio. remove the radio as described above. If you have an aftermarket head unit. The next step is the removal of the radio . . remove the double-DIN unit as described above and goto step 55. shown in the picture below. Once it's out.

move one clip to the side and then pull that side of the cupholder unit out a little to keep the clip from springing back. The cupholder unit is secured to the cage surrounding the cupholder/radio/HVAC controls by two tabs. 56. push on the flap to release the cupholder. . as shown below. This is actually much easier then it sounds . Remove the trim from around the HVAC controls using a screwdriver or other suitable tool. Open the front cupholder flap while keeping the actual cupholder tucked away in it's slot. indicated by the arrows in the picture below. To do this. as shown below. as indicated by the arrows in the picture below.55. 57. Remove the four T20 Torx screws at the corners of the HVAC controls. Move the tabs toward each other simultaneously using a screw driver and then slide the cupholder unit out. Carefully move the clip on the other side and then pull the unit out. push the cuphloder back in but don't fold the flap down.

There are two screws on each side of the cage. 59. remove the flap by pushing out the hinge pins on the flap. If you need to swap the cupholder flap. remove the four T20 Torx screws that attach the radio/HVAC trim cage to the dashboard. The picture below shows one of the clips that secures the cupholder in place. The screws on the driver's side are shown in the picture below . follow the procedure corresponding to the type of cupholder that you have. 60.58.the screws on the passenger's side are in the identical spots. You should now be able to remove the trim cage from the dashboard. Finally. If you have the older-style cupholder (the one with out the spring-loaded arms). . indicated by the arrows in the picture below.

remove the flap by using a screwdriver to pop off the metal tabs that secure it to the main cupholder unit. The rest of the reinstallation should be the exact opposite of the above . . If you remove the panel about the driver's side footwell. If you have the newer-style cupholder (the one with the spring-loaded arms. one of which is shown in the picture below. REASSEMBLY TIPS D.follow steps 43 through 61 in reverse. remember to correctly slide the rear of the panel into the two white plastic retaining slots.61. as shown below. E.

Although a screwdriver is shown in the picture.it will be slightly different on models with manual windows. follow steps 1 through 14. such as a putty or spackling knife . thin tool into the crack between the inner and outer pieces at one end and carefully spread them apart.STEPS FOR REMOVING REAR DOOR PANELS.it has always been easier for me to get the handles off with one of these. follow steps 1 through 16. as shown below. Once one end of the outer handle piece is pried off slightly. Be careful not to harm the soft-touch coating on the handle pieces . Lower the rear window all the way and open the rear door.To remove the rear door unlock handle. I actually prefer a tool with a wider blade.you may want to protect the tool with a thin rag. move to the other end and pry that out slightly.To remove the rear door panel. follow steps 1 through 14 and then steps 17 through 24. insert a screwdriver or other strong. Once it is this far out. 3. . . Begin by prying off the outer handle piece. please be observant while removing parts so that they go back together correctly. . Please do these procedures at your own risk and be ready to make small adjustments while doing them. Go back and forth between ends until the handle has been pried out approx. ____________________________________________________________________ REAR DOOR PANEL 1. 1/8". you should be able to pull it off the rest of the way with your hands. To do this.5 Jetta GLS VR6 with power windows . DOOR UNLOCK HANDLE ASSEMBLY AND TRIANGULAR INSERT ON QUARTER WINDOW DIVIDER The following outlines the procedure for removing the above items on a MKIV Jetta (some steps may also apply to a MKIV Golf/GTI as well). Also.To remove the triangular insert on the quarter window divider. The procedure was based on a 99. as shown below. 2. .

6. The picture below illustrates how the outer handle piece is connected to the inner handle piece by two posts (yellow arrows) and 3 clips (red arrows). . Remove the two T20 Torx screws at the bottom of the door. only remove the two large screws indicated by the yellow arrows. 5. The handle piece is attached to the door panel with three medium Phillips screws (red arrows) and the door panel is secured to the door with 2 large Phillips screws (yellow arrows). If you want to remove the inner handle piece from the door panel.4. If you are just taking the door panel off. Now you know why it is so hard to get off. remove all five screws. The picture below shows the inner handle piece still attached to the door panel.

Starting at the bottom of the door. two near the front edge of the panel and three near the rear edge of the panel.7. as shown below. There are five snaps securing the panel to the door. The door panel should not be off yet). The approximate location of the two lowermost snaps on the rear edge are indicated by the red spots. the door panel should still be attached to the top of the door near the bottom of the window. 9. pull the door panel up and out of the window seal. (This picture is for reference only and was taken later in the DIY. The picture below of the inside of the door panel shows the location of the five snaps. After unsnapping the five snaps. . pull the door panel away from the door. Starting with the top. rear corner. 8. as shown below.

remove the cable from the groove in the unlock handle assembly and then detach the hook from the unlock handle. The door panel should now be disconnected from the door except for the electrical and door lock cable connections in between the panel and the door. . You can rest the door panel back into the window seal if you want to take a break or reach for a tool. This is by far the most difficult step of the DIY. I find it easiest to do if you stand on the inside of the door with the door panel in front of you and stick your head through the open window to get a better view. 11. you need to pull out on front edge of the cable retaining clip (red area in picture below) and then slide the clip toward the rear of the car (away from the unlock handle assembly). as shown below. Once the clip is unhooked.10. To remove the lock cable. Do the same with the top. 12. Next you need to disconnect the door lock cable from the door unlock handle. as shown below. front corner of the door panel.

16.13. 14. The picture below is a side view of the cable retaining clip to help illustrate how to detach it. slide the assembly toward the front of the car to remove (2). DOOR UNLOCK HANDLE ASSEMBLY 15. The door unlock handle assembly is secured to the inside of the door panel with four clips (yellow arrows) and 1 small Phillips screw (red arrow). To remove the assembly. You should now be able to remove the door panel from the car. unclip the electrical connections for the window switch and the speakers. as shown below. After the lock cable is disconnected from the unlock handle. remove the screw. undo the four clips and push out on the front edge of the assembly (by the tweeter). Once the front edge of the handle assembly is pushed out (1). You need to pull outwards on the front of the clip (1) to clear the tabs and then slide it to the rear (2). .

The driver's side insert is part# 1J4-839-415-A-03C and the passenger's side insert is part# 1J4-839-416A-03C. The cheapest I could find them for was $7. 18. as indicated below.com. They are also very cheap.46 each at http://www. . as shown in the pictures below. It is very easy to replace these pieces once the door panels are off. To remove the inserts.1stvwparts. The triangular inserts on the rear quarter window divider commonly rust.TRIANGULAR INSERT ON QUARTER WINDOW DIVIDER 17. begin by removing the rubber grommet on the door just below the insert and then removing the 10mm bolt behind it.

you should see a white tab. Leave it attached at the top of the window and also to the bottom of the triangular insert. 20. as shown below. Pull the rubber window seal away from the insert. . as indicated in the picture below. This tab holds the insert in place. Pull out the seal from nearly top to bottom. but don't remove the seal completely.19. as shown below. 19. This will help insure that it goes back in correctly. On the inside of the triangular insert.

The picture below shows the entire insert still attached to the rubber window seal. The tab on the new insert should click into place if installed into the door correctly. Make sure to attach the seal to the new insert in the same position so that the seal reinstalls into the quarter panel window divider correctly. Installation of the new insert is the reverse of the above. 22. 23. 24. Take note of the position of the bottom of the rubber seal (yellow arrow) relative to that of the bottom of the insert (red arrow).21. pull the tab outward and simultaneously slide the insert up and out of the door. . Using a screwdriver. as shown below. as shown below.

. please be observant while removing parts so that they go back together correctly. DOOR UNLOCK HANDLE ASSEMBLY AND SIDEVIEW MIRROR ASSEMBLY The following outlines the procedure for removing the above items on a MKIV Jetta (some steps may also apply to a MKIV Golf/GTI as well). thin tool into the crack between the inner and outer pieces.you may want to protect the tool with a thin rag. The procedure was based on a 99.it will be slightly different on models with manual windows and mirrors.To remove the sideview mirror assembly. Although a screwdriver is shown in the picture. . follow the appropriate steps for the given door panel (above) and then follow steps 26 through 29. . Lower the front driver's window all the way and open the front driver's door.To remove the front passenger's door panel. and carefully spread them apart. Begin by prying out the inner handle piece. indicated by the arrow in the picture below. as shown below. Insert a screwdriver or other strong. Please do these procedures at your own risk and be ready to make small adjustments while doing them. Be careful not to harm the soft-touch coating on the handle pieces . Also.it has always been easier for me to get the handles off with one of these.To remove the front driver's door panel. I actually prefer a tool with a wider blade. such as a putty or spackling knife .5 Jetta GLS VR6 with power windows and mirrors .To remove the front door unlock handle. . follow steps 1 through 8 and 14 through 23. ____________________________________________________________________ FRONT DRIVER'S DOOR PANEL 1. follow the appropriate steps for the given door panel (above) and then follow steps 24 and 25. follow steps 9 through 23. . 2. 3.STEPS FOR REMOVING FRONT DOOR PANEL.

pull the rear of the handle upwards to unclip it. Disconnect the electrical harness connector for the main window and door controls in the main handle piece. Once the inner handle piece has been pried out approx. To take the main handle piece off of the driver's door panel. Do the same at the front edge of the handle. as shown below. as shown below. as shown below. 6. 5. .4. 1/8". you should be able to pull it out the rest of the way with your hands.

If your main door and window controls unit is not working properly (like mine). Remove the three large Phillips screws indicated by the yellow arrows in the photo below. ignore this step. you can replace it by removing the three medium Phillips screws (yellow arrow in picture below) that attach it to the main handle piece. If your unit is working properly and/or you do not want to replace it. 8.7. .

as shown below.view the pictures in a mirror if it bothers you . you should be able to pull it off the rest of the way with your hands. . (NOTE: The next four pictures are actually of the rear driver's side door panel and handle. To do this. thin tool into the crack between the inner and outer pieces at one end and carefully spread them apart. insert a screwdriver or other strong. move to the other end and pry that out slightly. 10. as shown below. The front passenger's handle is identical to those of the rear doors and I already had the pics for the rear door version of this DIY.) 11. so I used them instead of taking new ones .J/K. Begin by prying off the outer handle piece. Lower the front passenger's window all the way and open the front passenger's door.FRONT PASSENGER'S DOOR PANEL 9. 1/8". Once one end of the outer handle piece is pried out slightly. Once it is this far out. Go back and forth between ends until the handle has been pried out approx.

Remove the three T20 Torx screws at the bottom of the door. BOTH DOOR PANELS 14. If you are just taking the door panel off. The handle piece is attached to the door panel with three medium Phillips screws (red arrows) and the door panel is secured to the door with 2 large Phillips screws (yellow arrows). The picture below illustrates how the outer handle piece is connected to the inner handle piece by two posts (yellow arrows) and 3 clips (red arrows). Now you know why it is so hard to get off. remove all five screws. The picture below shows the inner handle piece still attached to the door panel. 13. If you want to remove the inner handle piece from the door panel. . only remove the two large screws indicated by the yellow arrows.12.

The picture below of the inside of the door panel shows the location of the six snaps. There are six snaps securing the panel to the door. three near the front edge of the panel and three near the rear edge of the panel. 16. the door panel should still be attached to the top of the door near the bottom of the window. This screw secures the door panel to the speaker grille. pull the door panel away from the door. indicated by the arrow in the picture below. Starting at the bottom of the door.15. Remove the small Phillips screw on the top front edge of the door panel. . 17. (This picture is for reference only and was taken later in the DIY. After unsnapping the six snaps. as shown below. The door panel should not be off yet). The approximate location of the two lowermost snaps on the rear edge are indicated by the red spots.

The door panel should now be disconnected from the door except for the electrical and door lock cable connections in between the panel and the door. 19. Next you need to disconnect the door lock cable from the door unlock handle. 20. I find it easiest to do if you stand on the inside of the door with the door panel in front of you and stick your head through the open window to get a better view. front corner of the door panel. This is by far the most difficult step of the DIY. Do the same with the top. as shown below. Starting with the top. You can rest the door panel back into the window seal if you want to take a break or reach for a tool. rear corner. as shown below. To remove the lock cable. . pull the door panel up and out of the window seal. you need to pull out on front edge of the cable retaining clip (red area in picture below) and then slide the clip toward the rear of the car (away from the unlock handle assembly).18.

The picture below is a side view of the cable retaining clip to help illustrate how to detach it. door light. and were used for the reasons given in Step 10. You need to pull outwards on the front of the clip (1) to clear the tabs and then slide it to the rear (2). The door unlock handle assembly on the front doors is attached to the door panel in the same way as the rear doors. 23. 22. You should now be able to remove the door panel from the car. as shown below.) . door light and speakers). remove the cable from the groove in the unlock handle assembly and then detach the hook from the unlock handle. alarm LED. After the lock cable is disconnected from the unlock handle.21. remove the screw. unclip the electrical connections for the front driver's door (mirror switch. trunk release. (NOTE: The next two pictures are actually of the rear driver's side door panel and handle assembly. gas door release and the speakers) or the front passenger's door (door locks. undo the four clips and push out on the front edge of the assembly (by the mirror switch on driver's door and door lock switch on passenger's door). DOOR UNLOCK HANDLE ASSEMBLY 24. The door unlock handle assembly is secured to the inside of the door panel with four clips (yellow arrows) and 1 small Phillips screw (red arrow). as shown below. To remove the assembly. Once the clip is unhooked.

Once the front edge of the handle assembly is pushed out (1). . Pull the speaker grille off of the door. Remove the small Phillips screw that attaches the tweeter speaker grille to the door. The inside of the grille is also attached to the door by three tabs which are indicated by the arrows in the picture below. 27.25. as indicated by the arrow in the picture below. slide the assembly toward the front of the car to remove (2). SIDEVIEW MIRROR ASSEMBLY 26.

Remove this screw and pull the mirror assembly off of the door .28. 29. shown below.be careful not to harm the wires for the mirror glass heater element and the mirror motor. . The sideview mirror assembly is attached to the door with a single T45 Torx screw (thanks bluetoyota for the size). Pull the foam speaker insert. off of the door.

remove the two rubber plugs (one shown in picture below) with a screwdriver and raise the window until you can see the clips at the bottom of the window glass through the holes (this will require you to temporarily reconnect the main driver's window and door lock controls).EXTRAS Once the door panels are off. To remove the driver's door alarm LED. To remove the door light. . you can also do the following:30. push in on the two tabs indicated by the arrows in the picture below and slide the light out of the door panel. press in on the tabs indicated by the arrows in the picture below and slide the LED unit out of the top of the door panel. 31. To view your window regulator clips. 32.

Mind you this was my first time doing this and was also taking lots of pictures as I know DIYs are much easier to follow with pictures! NOTE (1 of 2): The slider on the leather seats had studs with a 13mm nut.DIFFICULTLY: Not very difficult at all. Leather 2001 New Beetle GLS sliding bracket: (Note: the different connector and clip is circled here) Cloth 2001 New Beetle GLS sliding bracket: (Note: the circled areas are where the bracket was bolted onto the underbelly of the seat with 2 Philips head screws. TOOLS: REQUIRED: 10 MM socket. TIME: Took me 2 hours from start to finish. If you have any questions. large flathead screwdriver. The cloth seats needed to have a bolt threaded. 8 MM allen wrench. RECOMMENDED: solder. Philips head screw driver. depending on your application. I believe you can do this fairly easily. . PLEASE make sure you read through this entire DIY before attempting. soldering iron/gun. small flathead screwdriver. feel free to send me a PM and I’d be happy to help out. save yourself the headache and make sure to run down to your local hardware store and purchase 4 nuts or bolts. so if this is the case for you. electrical tape (Note: These are only recommended if you have to swap airbag connectors). 13 MM socket. If you can change your car’s oil. ratchet. mallet or hammer.

Even though both sets of seats are from a 2001 GLS New Beetle. Leather 2001 New Beetle GLS driver side airbag connections: Cloth 2001 New Beetle GLS driver side airbag connections: . Note: This was only an issue on the driver side. Be prepared to cut and solder or crimp the original connection to the new seats. the connections were different.NOTE (2 of 2): The airbag connector was different from the leather and cloth seats.

(Note: Make sure the seat is all the way up so that it’s easier to remove the covers and not snap them! We are removing these so the seats can fall out of their sliding bracket!) . Remember how I mentioned this at the very beginning? Remember how you are prepared for this step already? Remember how this will help save you a ton of headaches later?) Remove both nuts (or bolts). Using a small flathead screw driver. STEP 7: Slide the seat to the very forward position and pull the side latch as if you were letting people into the back.STEP 6: Let’s start with the driver side seat. There are two 13 MM nuts (or bolts depending on your application. Push the seat to the farthest rear setting. remove the two plastic circular covers at the base where the seats slide on their bracket. Remove both Philips head screws and remove the plastic pieces.

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It should fall right out of the bracket. Now. There are 3 connectors/clips under here. (Note: Be very careful as you remove the seat as to not scratch any interior pieces!) . Tip the entire seat back and take a look underneath. you need to lift up a small tab. To unclip the plastic harness holder clip. remove the seat by tipping it sideways. Unclip the airbag connections by pressing in a small tab.STEP 8: Lock the seat back down and slide it all the way back. Two connectors for the airbag and one white plastic clip that holds the harness in place so it doesn’t get tangled while you are sliding your seat back and forth.

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.STEP 9: The passenger side is exactly the same as the driver side. except there are only 2 connectors: One airbag connector and one plastic clip that holds the harness in place.

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ABS (30A). Instrument cluster. diesel engine (15A). S180. 21. Cigarette lighter (15A). Generator (GEN) (120 Amp. left (10A). diesel engine. Climatronic. windshield wiper motor (20A). Injectors: gasoline engine (10A). Relays panel interior (110A). 37. right (10A). Glow plugs (coolant) (50A). 15. S163. Fuel pump (FP) (15A).5A). Headlight high beam. motor to unlock rear lid (15A). 16. 11. A/C clutch. Data Link Connector (DLC) power supply (7. Engine control module (ECM): gasoline engine (10A). 44. 2. 13. S164. remote/fuel tank door. S178. 26. Engine control elements (10A). 19. 5. 17. 29. 42. A/C (25A). 33. right (15A).) (150A). Fuse arangements in fuse bracket/battery: S162. Anti-lock brake system (ABS) (5A). 14. transmission control module (TCM) (5A). luggage compartment light. 38. Headlight low beam. shift lock solenoid (5A). central locking system (10A). 20. Parking lights right. . Back-up lights. 25. speedometer vehicle speed sensor (VSS) (10A). Headlight high beam. ABS (hydraulic pump) (30A). left (15A). S177. control unit in steering wheel (7. Comfort system. 41. Generator (GEN) (90 Amp. Fuel pump (FP) relay/glow plug relay (50A). memory seat control module (10A). 10. Terminal (86S) on radio. Parking lights left. 36. 3. 6. 32. Brake tail lights (10A). 27. Power sunroof control module (20A). Fresh air blower. Model Year 2000 > (5A). side marker right (5A). Instrument cluster. S179. 4. 40. Rear window defogger (25A). Transmission control module (TCM) (20A). 8. S176. Open.MKIV FUSE LIST 1. Radio (25A). Fog lights (15A). 7. 43.5A). Headlight washer system (20A). 34. diesel engine (10A). Emergency flashers (15A). control module for multi-function steering wheel. Turn signal lights (10A). 39. 22. 35. A/C. Washer nozzle heaters. automatic day/night interior mirror. Coolant fan control (FC) control module/coolant fan (40A). cruise control. Central locking system (5A). 28. Dual tone horn (20A). heated seat control modules. License plate light (5A). glove compartment light. Climatronic. Instrument cluster (10A). 24. Fog light relay. Interior lights. 30. Open 9. Headlight low beam. 12.) (110A). Windshield and rear window washer pump. after-run coolant pump (10A). Heated seats (15A). Coolant fan (30A). Engine control module (ECM) gasoline engine (15A). 23. 31. 12 V power outlet (in luggage compartment) (30A). Engine control elements (10A). instrument panel light dimmer switch (5A). Central locking system (with power windows). side marker left (5A). Motor for rear windshield wiper (15A). 18.