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How to Increase Marijuana Yields

How to Increase Marijuana Yields

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Published by: Paul Davis on Aug 21, 2013
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Cannabis Potency

http://growinghelp.com/cannabis/thcpotency_guide.php

CANNABIS POTENCY VARIATIONS IN CANNABIS POTENCY The potency of a particular cannabis sample will vary because of many factors other then the variety. Many of these have to do with the natural development of the plants and their resin glands. Environmental factors do affect potency but there are large differences in any variety. These inherent factors must be explained before we can talk of factors outside the plant that affect relative potency. Strictly environmental effects are discussed in Chapter 19. Variations in Cannabis Potency Within Varieties of Cannabis There are noticeable differences in THC concentrations between plants of the same variety. Differences are large enough so that you can tall (by smoking) that certain plants are better. This is no news to homegrowers, who often find a particular plant to be outstanding. Five-fold differences in THC concentration have also shown up in research. However, when you consider a whole group of plants of the same variety, they're relatively similar in cannabinoid concentrations. Type II plants are the most variable, with individual plants much higher than other in certain canninbinoids. Variations by Plant Part The concentration of cannabinoids depends on the plant part, or more specifically, the concentration and development of resin glands to plant part. The female flower bracts have the highest concentration of resin glands and are usually the most potent plant parts. Seeds and roots have no resin glands. These shoe no more than traces of canninbinoids. Smoke seeds will give you a headache before you can get high. If you got high on seeds, then there were probably enough bracts adhering to the seeds to get you high On the right are the potencies, in descending order, of the various plant parts 1. Female flowering clusters. In practice you don't separate hundreds of tiny bracts to make a joint. The whole flowering mass (seeds removed), along with small accompanying leaves, forms the material. 2. Male flower clusters. These vary more in relative potency depending on the strain (see "Potency by Sex," below). Growing shoots. Before the plants flower, the vegetative shoots (tips) of the main stem and branches are the most potent plant parts. 3. Leaves (a) that accompany flowers (small); (b) along branches (medium);(c) along main stem (large). Generally, the smaller the leaf is, the more potent it can be. 4. Petioles (leaf stalks). Same order as leaves. 5. Stems. Same order as leaves. The smaller the stem (twig), the higher the possible concentration of cannabinoids. Stems over 1/16" in diameter contain only traces of cannabinoids and are not worth smoking. The small stems that bear the flowers can be quite potent. 6. Seeds and Roots. Contain only traces (less then .01 percent) and are not worth smoking or extracting. CANNABIS POTENCY

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5 Ways to Increase Yields When Growing Indoors | Grow Weed Easy

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5 Ways to Increase Yields When Growing Indoors
by Nebula Haze We all want bigger yields for less money, time and effort. Today I will cover 5 easy ways to increase your indoor marijuana yields at harvest time!
1.) Increase light intensity

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If your marijuana plant has no problems or illnesses, then the biggest factor affecting your yields is the light intensity provided. Light is like food for your plants. It's how your plants get energy to grow and produce buds. As a general rule of thumb... More Intense Light = Bigger Yields After you’ve germinated your seeds (or rooted your clones), one of the most important things to do right from the beginning is ensure that your plants are getting enough light. During the vegetative stage, marijuana plants which don't get enough light will tend to 'stretch' up toward the light with a lot of space between nodes or "branches."
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Example: The seedling to the left is stretching upwards because she’s not getting enough light. She’s trying to “reach” up towards what she thinks is the sun.
This stretching is not usually a good thing, because tall lanky plants are hard to give proper light coverage in the flowering stage.

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During the flowering stage, higher light intensity is what drives the production of buds. For the best results, you want all your buds directly exposed to intense

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light. Being in direct light seems to cause buds to swell up much more than when buds are hidden by leaves or far away from your lights. If you keep increasing the light intensity in your grow room, you will eventually reach a point where you actually max out on the light your plants can use. If you think of light like food for your plant, this is like putting so much food on the table that your plants just can't eat any more. When this happens, you can give your plants the ability to use even more of that light (and increase your bud yields even further) by increasing the CO2 levels in your grow room during the flowering stage. This is like if you could give your plants a way to stretch their bellies and eat even more food than would normally be possible. Just remember that it takes a lot of light for your marijuana plants to hit this light saturation point. so unless you've got a 1000W grow light (or multiple 600W grow lights), your plants are probably able to use all the light they're receiving. Yet if you are working with high-powered lights, you may want to look into supplementing CO2 to increase your yields even further.

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Learn more about CO2 and it's relationhip to light intensity and marijuana yields here: http://growweedeasy.com/co2-marijuana-yields Learn about grow light options, so you can pick the most intense light possible for your grow space: http://growweedeasy.com/growing-marijuana-what-type-of-lights Next you’ll learn how to manipulate your plant so that you can get more
light coverage to your bud sites, using the same grow lights you already have.
2.) Manipulate plant (bend, net, top, etc) so it gets more even coverage of light

Manipulating your plants is a basically free way to increase your yields, without needing to change anything else about your setup. You don’t need to buy expensive nutrients or get a new grow light for this to work for you. Manipulating the plant this way is often referred to as “LST” in the marijuana growing world, which is short for “Low Stress Training.” The idea with LST is to manually force your plant to grow flat and wide, as opposed to tall and thin. Here’s an example of a plant that has been LST’ed to grow very short and wide.

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Notice how the plant is very short when viewed from the side, but when viewed from above the plant has a lot of leaf surface area. All those leaves are like little solar panels, getting energy from your grow light.. This plant shape allows the whole plant to better use your existing grow lights, since a greater percentage of the plant is closer to the light source. Any LST attempts should almost always begin when the plant is very young, as this type of “table” shape is much harder to achieve once the plant has developed into a triangle shape with a tall main cola.

Learn more about LST here: http://growweedeasy.com/lst-low-stress-training
A variation of LST is when growers use a screen or net to actually force plants to grow flat. This technique is known as ScrOG (short for "Screen Of Green"). ScrOg is how you achieve something like this...

Notice how practically the whole plant is getting direct exposure from the lights. All that direct, intense light will be turned into energy by the plant, fueling bigger buds and overall yields. In order to use ScrOG, you will need to invest in a screen, and take time during the vegetative and beginning of the flowering stage to train your

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plant to grow along the screen.

Learn more about how to ScrOG here: http://growweedeasy.com/how-to-scrog-marijuana Check out this awesome example of ScrOG in action by ogkushog (view his whole grow in pictures): http://growweedeasy.com/sour-kush-scrog-pics-37-days-flower Next, learn how using less nutrients can actually result in bigger yields.
3.) Don’t overdo it with too many nutrients

Your plant needs nutrients, no doubt about it. But how much nutrients do you give them? People refer to nutrients as “food” for your plants. It intuitively seems like giving more “food” would result in bigger buds, but is that really the case? As we learned earlier, the real "food" for your plants is light. Light is what your plant turns into energy through photosynthesis, and this energy is what fuels vegetative and flowering growth. Then what do the nutrients do? They're like little helpers that give your plant what it needs to carry out the process of photosynthesis and growth. I like to think of nutrients like vitamins for humans. While humans need to get certain vitamins to survive, I want you to consider that people continue getting more and more benefits if you feed them multi-vitamins like candy. In fact, if you give people more vitamins than their body can use, they will actually get sick. Nutrients are important to healthy growth, but it's important to understand that going overboard can actually do more harm than good. While many growers are trying to raise nutrient levels as high as possible, I have gotten better results (yields) when I take the opposite approach. My plants seem to produce the best yields when I keep nutrient levels low; I try to give just enough nutrients to prevent nutrient deficiencies throughout the grow. That means I often use half or even less than the suggested amount of nutrients listed on the label. I only ever raise my nutrient levels when I notice that the lower leaves are starting to turn yellow and die (especially in the vegetative or early flowering stage, though it's normal to start losing leaves the last month before harvest). Otherwise I keep nutrient levels as low as I can. Slightly lowered nutrient levels seem to be especially important to bud production during the last 2-4 weeks before harvest time.

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It's natural for the lower leaves of this plant to start turning yellow as harvest time approaches It’s natural for the plant to start losing leaves as the plant puts all energy into making buds, and unfortunately many growers respond by ramping up nutrient levels late in the flowering stage. Yet if you keep nutrient levels low and allow the vegetative growth to die away during those last few weeks, the buds seem to swell up dramatically compared to a plant that is kept green all the way to harvest. Lowering overall nutrient levels and letting the leaves yellow and die as harvest approaches has seemed to improve my bud yields compared to when I use full levels of nutrients until harvest.

Speaking of harvesting...
4.) Wait until the right time to harvest

For most strains of marijuana, there is a 2-3 week window during which

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buds can be harvested. By allowing your buds to ripen fully, you will maximize your overall yields. I’ve seen buds gain up to 25% adiitional size (at least visually) in the last 2-3 weeks before harvest. If I'd harvested these buds early, I would have dramatically lowered my overall yields. Another benefit of waiting until the right time to harvest is you can choose to harvest your buds when they have the exact effects you’re looking for. Harvest earlier for a more buzzy high, and harvest later for a more relaxing experience

Learn how to tell when your buds are ready for harvest: http://growweedeasy.com/how-do-i-know-when-to-harvest-marijuana
And while your buds are fattening up during those last few weeks...
5.) Provide a source of sugar (blackstrap molasses works great) towards end of flowering stage

By supplementing with extra sugar towards the end of flowering, you help improve the flavor of your buds while also fattening buds up. This is especially effective for those growing organically, as this works synergistically with the beneficial microbes in your soil There are many commercial supplements that claim to fatten up buds and improve flavor, but most of these work by adding simple sugar. If you’re growing in soil and looking for a cheap yet effective alternative to those expensive supplements, you can add a little bit of regular blackstrap molasses (a teaspoon or two per gallon) to your water every time you water your plants during the second half of the flowering stage. Please Note: Note It is not recommended to use molasses in a recirculating hydroponic system as it can clog up your tubing.

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Start With A High-Yielding Strain!

While all the tips and tactics above will help increase your yields, the genetics of your plant also play a huge role. That's why growing a high-yielding strain can be one of the best ways to increase your final yields. Here are some proven high-yielding strains that also produce top-quality buds:

Wonder Woman

Forgiving skunk strain is extremely easy to grow, responds well to FIMing/topping/LST/ training methods. Fat buds produce an uplifting effect. She takes a little bit longer to finish flowering (2-3 months), but she makes up for it with huge yields. Order Wonder Woman today!

Aurora Indica

Another strain that is easy to grow and responds well to training and especially supercropping. Tends to like lower levels of nutrients compared to many other strains. Aurora Indica produces dense indica buds. Harvest around 9 weeks for a complete couchlock effect. Order Aurora Indica today!

BlackJack

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Medical-grade buds and big yields are two of the trademarks of this strain. A bit tougher to grow, she needs you to tend to her and does best when given nearly 3 months in flower. She will reward you for your patience with a sea of trichome-encrusted colas and buds that offer a depression-busting high. Order BlackJack today!

Raspberry Cough

Potent yet calming sativa high, spicy Thai flavor with hints of berry, and produces fat buds that stack on top of each other on thick colas. This strain smells less than many strains while growing, but the odor tends to increase after drying/curing while taking on fruity accests. If growing indoors, you will need to train this plant with LST to prevent her from growing too tall. Order Raspberry Cough today!

Super Skunk

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Slightly skunky smell that brings back the 80s, potent buds, and high yields. She prefers a lower amount of nutrients, especially in the last month of flower. You'll see increased yields by preventing nutrient burn and flushing with plain water for 2-3 weeks before harvest. As the leaves start yellowing and dying away, the buds will fatten up massively. Order Super Skunk Today!

Feeling Anxious?

Learn which strains are best for relieving anxiety, and learn what growing tactics you can take to increase the anxiety-busting effects of any buds you grow! Learn how to grow medical marijuana for anxiety right here: http://growweedeasy.com/best-strains-anxiety-medical-marijuana

FOR SERIOUS GROWERS ONLY You've told me you're looking for a complete guide to growing marijuana that covers everything, from beginner to ultra-advanced. And the techniques on this page are only a few of the many paths to getting seriously killer harvests. If you want to learn ALL the secrets... Learn from the best! Invest in the most advanced Grow Bible Available: Growing Elite Marijuana + 6 bonuses (including one-of-a-kind comprehensive strain guide) Total care explained step-by-step... indoors... outdoors... Monster cropping... advanced growth control... bud production secrets... and much, much more... Over 700 pages of pictures, tutorials and advanced insider tips! Get Instant Access to It All Right Here: GrowWeedEasy.com/growing-elite-

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marijuana

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I thought I already knew it all, but after I went through this grow bible, I discovered that there were still lots of easy ways I could increase my yields and grow even more potent buds! I find myself going back to it again and again for new ideas.
-Nebula

Wanna "steal" this article? Here at GrowWeedEasy.com, we are dedicated to getting this information into as many hands as possible. You are welcome to republish this entire article as long as you do not edit, remove or or otherwise change any part of it without permission, including this message at the end. Please don't hesitate to Contact GrowWeedEasy.com with any questions. Happy growing!

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CANNABIS PLANTS tips on growing good cannabis.

http://growinghelp.com/cannabis/marijuanaplants_guide.php

Tips on Growing Good Cannabis Plants Basic instructions to start growing you must have good seeds, some seedling soil, some small and large pots and depending on whether you're growing indoor or outdoor some lamps and all the toys around them. Soak the seeds in a cup of water overnight before beginning the process of growing. First you may want to have some good fertilized soil, preferably peat moss, and you may want to use a little bit of miracle grow, which can be purchased at a low price at any plant shop, pretty mucQuik grow tips. You must have either a 400 watt or 600 watt grow lamp. Soft white bulbs will NOT work. RATIO: 1 400 watt lamp = 1 squire meter of plants( +/- 25 plants). First up you will need a small space. A wooden closet of approximately 100*100*200cm would be good. This size can be varied depending on the number of plants but this is good for 25. Remember to make sure that your lights will fit inside the closet. The inside of this closet should be painted with flat white paint or coated with aluminum foil (or Mylar is you have it). This will increase reflectivity and will make your lights more effective. Now you need to put lights inside the cabinet. The optimum temperature is 27-30 C. It will probably be hotter than this so cut a small ventilation hole (10cm*10cm) in the top of the cabinet. Mount the lights vertically with one in each corner, as close to the top of the cabinet as possible. Mount the remaining light on the roof of the cabinet. Wire all the lights into one plug with enough cable to reach the socket. This could be dangerous so get someone who knows what they are doing to do it. Use an appropriate fuse or better still, buy a circuit breaker. Buy a timer. A standard and widely available 24hr timer will be fine. These are cheap. Get some potting soil from a garden center. Sandy or loose soils are good soils for growing. The exact soil is not all that important. With enough light and nutrients you should have no trouble getting good growth. If you can then monitor soil pH values. Switch the lights on and leave them on. Plant 10-15 seeds. Water the plants once a day and feed the plants twice a week with a standard miracle grow product in the water. Try to use a high nitrogen plant food during vegetative growth (at the start) and a low nitrogen plant food during flowering. When the plants get to the height you want them (about 60cm is good) set the timer for 12 hours of light and 12 of dark. Only water once every two days around the time when the lights come on. This will halt vertical growth and after a few weeks the plants will start to show either male or female characteristics. Males: pollen balls. Females: stems and branches. During the dark periods absolutely no light should be allowed in. Cut out the males before they release pollen. Reduce the number of plants down to the best 5 females. These females will now grow outwards. The whole thing takes 4 months. 4-6 weeks in vegetative growth stage, 2 weeks differentiation to split males and females and 8 weeks for the females to flower. Harvest when the large leaves begin to yellow and drop off. Cut the leaves off and let dry on a flat surface.

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CANNABIS PLANTS tips on growing good cannabis.

http://growinghelp.com/cannabis/marijuanaplants_guide.php

Trim the leaf near the buds and hang the buds to dry for about a week. A book with pictures and good detail is essential for serious growing. Growth space must be high enough to allow growth to about 60cm (2-3ft). This requires a space of about 100cm (4ft high). Twice this height should be converted into a two level growing space by inserting a shelf. There should be between 18inches and 2ft growing space per plant. All of the inside of the growing space should be coated with foil or painted with white paint to increase reflectivity and improve light efficiency. More space than the minimum is always best because good ventilation can greatly improve growth rates. Lighting Fluorescent tubes are named for the spectrum of light which they emit. Some spectrums are more efficient than others. Deluxe warm white, warm white and deluxe cool white are all conducive to good growth and should be widely available. All types of growing light should have a reflector box around them directing the light towards the plants. You should get the longest light that will fit into your space and the highest wattage you can find. Screw-in grow bulbs are tempting but highly inefficient. Plant Pot Size A cannabis of 6"*6"*6" should be perfect to support good growth. One of these per plant. Organic Soil Mixes There are many different types of soil mixes available and they are easy to obtain from garden centers. Two proven types are: -4 parts topsoil, 1 part peat moss, 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite. This is moist, contains medium/high amounts of nutrients and is best for hand watering systems. -1 part worm castings, 2 parts vermiculite, 1 part perlite. This is light-weight and high in nutrients. Fertilizer The main nutrients that a plant needs to grow are Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium. Most plant fertilizers contain these elements and a good, easily available, one is called Grow More. If you really want to then here are the some effective ratios of the three elements to be used through the two growth stages. Early growth stages: 7-9-5 or 5-10-5 or 4-5-3. For the flowering stages use 3-10-4 or 5-20-5 or 4-30-12. It is best to build up the amount of fertilizer you use to what is making the plants look healthily green as too much fertilizer can kill the plant. Soil pH Levels Any pH level between 6 and 7 is fine but you should aim for as close to 6.5 as possible. Temperature

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CANNABIS PLANTS tips on growing good cannabis.

http://growinghelp.com/cannabis/marijuanaplants_guide.php

Aim for 70 F. Anything higher than 75F will be too hot and will damage growth. Make sure the water for watering is luke-warm. CANNABIS LIFE CYCLE Cannabis plants may belong to any one of a number of varieties which follow somewhat different growth patterns. The following outline describes the more common form of growth. Differences between varieties can be thought of as variations on this standard theme. Cannabis is an annual plant. A single season completes a generation, leaving all hope for the future to the seeds. The normal life cycle follows the general pattern described below. Germination With winter past, the moisture and warmth of spring stir activity in the embryo. Water is absorbed and the embryo's tissues swell and grow, splitting the seed along its suture. The radical or embryonic root appears first. Once clear of the seed, the root directs growth downward in response to gravity. Meanwhile, the seed is being lifted upward by growing cells which form the seedling's stem. Now anchored by the roots, and receiving water and nutrients, the embryonic leaves (cotyledons) unfold. They are a pair of small, somewhat oval, simple leaves, now green with chlorophyll to absorb the life-giving light. Germination is complete. The embryo has been reborn and is now a seedling living on the food it produces through photosynthesis. The process of germination is usually completed in three to 10 days. Seedling The second pair of leaves begins the seedling stage. They are set opposite each other and usually have a single blade. They differ from the embryonic leaves by their larger size, spearhead shape, and serrated margins. With the next pair of leaves that appears, usually each leaf has three blades and is larger still. A basic pattern has been set. Each new set of leaves will be larger, with a higher number of blades per leaf until, depending on variety, they reach their maximum number, often nine or 11. The seedling stage is completed within four to six weeks. Vegetative Growth This is the period of maximum growth. The plant can grow no faster than the rate that its leaves can produce energy for new growth. Each day more leaf tissue is created, increasing the overall capacity for growth. With excellent growing conditions, Cannabis has been known to grow six inches a day, although the rate is more commonly one to two inches. The number of blades on each leaf begins to decline during the middle of the vegetative stage. Then the arrangement of the leaves on the stem (phyllotaxy) changes from the usual opposite to alternate. The internodes (stem space from one pair of leaves to the next, which had been increasing in length) begin to decrease, and the growth appears to be thicker. Branches which appeared in the axis of each set of leaves grow and shape the plant to its characteristic form. The vegetative stage is usually completed in the third to fifth months of growth. Preflowering This is a quiescent period of one to two weeks during which growth slows considerably. The plant is

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beginning a new program of growth as encoded in its genes. The old system is turned off and the new program beings with the appearance of the first flowers. Flowering Cannabis is dioecious: each plant produces either male or female flowers, and is considered either a male or female plant. Male plants usually start to flowers about one month before the female; however, there is sufficient overlap to ensure pollination. First the upper internodes elongate; in a few days the male flowers appear. The male flowers are quite small, about 1/4 inch, and are pale green, yellow, or red/purple. They develop in dense, drooping clusters (cymes) capable of releasing clouds of pollen dust. Once pollen falls, males lose vigour and soon die. The female flowers consists of two small (1/4 to 1/2 inch long), fuzzy white stigmas raised in a V sign and attached at the base to an ovule which is contained in a tiny green pod. The pod is formed from modified leaves (bracts and bracteoles) which envelop the developing seed. The female flowers develop tightly together to form dense clusters (racemes) or buds, cones, or colas (in this book, buds). The bloom continues until pollen reaches the flowers, fertilizing them and beginning the formation of seeds. Flowering usually lasts about one or two months, but may continue longer when the plants are not pollinated and there is no killing frost. Seed Set A fertilized female flower develops a single seed wrapped in the bracts. In thick clusters, they form the seed-filled buds that make up most fine imported cannabis. After pollination, mature, viable seeds take from 10 days to five weeks to develop. When seeds are desired, the plant is harvested when enough seeds have reached full color. For a fully-seeded plant this often takes place when the plant has stopped growth and is, in fact, dying. During flowering and seed set, various colors may appear. All the plant's energy goes to reproduction and the continuance of its kind. Minerals and nutrients flow from the leaves to the seeds, and the chlorophyll's that give the plant its green color disintegrate. The gold's, browns, and reds which appear are from accessory pigments that formerly had been masked by chlorophyll. About Plants Generally Plants use a fundamentally different "life strategy" from animals. Animals are more or less self-contained units that grow and develop to predetermined forms. They use movement and choice of behavior to deal with the changing environments. Plants are organized more as open systems - the simple physical characteristics of the environment, such as sunlight, water, and temperature, directly control their growth, form, and life cycles. Once the seed sprouts, the plant is rooted in place and time. Since growth is regulated by the environment, development is on accordance with the plant's immediate surroundings. When a balance is struck, the strategy is a success and life flourishes. Behavior of a plant is not a matter of choice; it is a fixed response. On a visible level the response more often than not is growth, either a new form of growth, or specialized growth. By directly responding, plant in effect "know," for example, when to sprout, flower, or drop leaves to prepare for winter. Everyone has seen how a plant turns toward light or can bend upward if it its stem is bent down. The plant turns by growing cells of different length on opposite sides of the stem. This effect turns or right the plant.

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CANNABIS PLANTS tips on growing good cannabis.

http://growinghelp.com/cannabis/marijuanaplants_guide.php

The stimulus in the first case is light, in the second gravity, but essentially the plant responds by specialized growth. It is the same with almost all facets of a plant's live - growth is modified and controlled by the immediate environment. The influence of light, wind, rainfall, etc., interacts with the plant (its genetic make-up or genotype) to produce the individual plant (phenotype). The life cycle of Cannabis is usually complete in four to nine months. The actual time depends on variety, but it is regulated by local growing conditions, specifically the photoperiod (length of day vs. night). Cannabis is a long-night (or short-day) plant. When exposed to a period of two weeks of long nights - that is, 13 or more hours of continuous darkness each night - the plants respond by flowering. This has important implications, for it allows the grower to control the life cycle of the plant and adapt it to local growing conditions or unique situations. Since you can control flowering, you control maturation and, hence, the age of the plants at harvest. PHOTOPERIOD AND FLOWERING For the cannabis grower the most important plant/environment interaction to understand is the influence of the photoperiod. The photoperiod is the daily number of hours of day (light) vs. night (dark). In nature, long nights signal the plant that winter is coming and that it is time to flowers and produce seeds. As long as the day-length is long, the plants continue vegetative growth. If female flowers do appear, there will only be a few. These flowers will not form the characteristic large clusters or buds. If the days are too short, the plants flowers too soon, and remain small and underdeveloped. The plant "senses" the longer nights by a direct interaction with light. A flowering hormone is present during all stages of growth. This hormone is sensitive to light and is rendered inactive by even low levels of light. When the dark periods are long enough, the hormones increase to a critical level that triggers the reproductive cycle. Vegetative growth ends and flowering begins. The natural photoperiod changes with the passing of seasons. In the Northern Hemisphere, the length of daylight is longest on June 21. Day-length gradually decreases until it reaches its shortest duration on December 22. The duration of daylight then begins to increase until the cycle is completed the following June 21. Because the Earth is tilted on its axis to the sun, day-length also depends on position (or latitude) on Earth. As one moves closer to the equator, changes in the photoperiod are less drastic over the course of a year. At the equator (0 degrees altitude) day length lasts about 12.5 hours on June 21 and 11.5 hours on December 22. In Maine (about 45 degrees north), day-length varies between about 16 and nine hours. Near the Arctic Circle on June 21 there is no night. On December 22 the whole day is dark. The longer day-length toward the north prevents cannabis from flowering until later in the season. Over most of the northern half of the country, flowering is often so late that development cannot be completed before the onset of cold weather and heavy frosts. The actual length of day largely depends on local conditions, such as cloud cover, altitude, and terrain. On a flat Midwest plain, the effective length of day is about 30 minutes longer than sunrise to sunset. In practical terms, it is little help to calculate the photoperiod, but it is important to realize how it affects the plants and how you can use it to you advantage. Cannabis generally needs about two weeks of successive long nights before the first flowers appear. The photoperiod necessary for flowering will vary slight with (1) the variety, (2) the age of the plant, (3) its sex, and (4) growing conditions. 1. Cannabis varieties originating from more northerly climes (short growing seasons) react to as little as

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nine hours of night. Most of these are hemp and seed varieties that are acclimated to short growing seasons, such as the weedy hemp's of Minnesota or southern Canada. Varieties from more southerly latitudes need longer nights with 11 to 13 hours of darkness. Since most cannabis plants are acclimated to southerly latitudes, they need the longer nights to flower. To be on the safe side, if you give Cannabis plant dark periods of 13 or more hours, each night for two weeks, this should be enough to trigger flowering. 2. The older a plant (the more physiologically developed), the quicker it responds to long nights. Plants five or six months old sometimes form visible flowers after only four long nights. Young cannabis plants (a month or so of age) can take up to four weeks to respond to long nights of 16 hours. 3. Both male and female Cannabis are long-night plants. Both will flower when given about two weeks of long nights. The male plant, however, will often flower fully under very long days (18 hours) and short nights (six hours). Males often flowers at about the same time they would if they were growing in their original environment. For most cannabis plants this occurs during the third to fifth month. 4. Growing conditions affect flowering in many ways (see Chapter 12). Cool temperatures (about 50F) slow down the flowering response. Cool temperatures or generally poor growing conditions affect flowering indirectly. Flower development is slower, and more time is needed to reach full bloom. Under adverse conditions, female buds will not develop to full size. Applications of Photoperiod The photoperiod is used to manipulate the plants in two basic ways: 1. By giving long dark periods, you can force plants to flower. 2. By preventing long nights, using artificial light to interrupt the dark period, you can force the plants to continue vegetative growth. Outdoors Most cannabis plants cultivated in the United States begin to flower by late August to early October and the plants are harvested from October to November. For farmers in the South, parts of the Midwest, and West Coast, this presents no problem and no special techniques and instructions are needed for normal flowering. In much of the North and high-altitude areas, many varieties will not have time to complete flowering before fall frosts. To force the plants to flower earlier, give them longer night periods. If the plants are in containers, you can simply move them into a darkened area each evening. Plants growing in the ground can be covered with an opaque tarpaulin, black sheet plastic, or double or triple-layers black plastic trash bags. Take advantage of any natural shading because direct sunlight is difficult to screen completely. For instance, if the plants are naturally shaded in the morning hours, cover the plants each evening or night. The next morning you uncover the plants at about eight to nine o'clock. Continue the treatment each day until all the plants are showing flowers. This usually takes two weeks at most, is the plants are well developed (about four months old). For this reason, where the season starts late, it is best to start the plants indoors or in cold frames and transplant outdoors when the weather is mild. This in effect lengthens the local growing season and gives the plants another month or two to develop. By the end of August the plants are physiologically ready to flower; they sometimes do with no manipulation of the photoperiod. More often female plants show a few flowers, but the day-length prevents rapid

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development to large clusters. The plants seem in limbo - caught between vegetative growth and flowering. The natural day-length at this time of year will not be long enough to reverse the process, so you can discontinue the treatment when you see that the new growth is predominantly flowers. In areas where frosts are likely to occur by early October, long-night treatments may be the only way you can harvest good-sized flower clusters. These clusters, or buds, are the most potent plant parts and make up the desired harvest. Forcing the plants to flowers early also means development while the weather is warm and the sun is shining strongly. The flower buds will form much faster, larger and reach their peak potency. A good time to start the treatments is early to middle August. This allows the plants at least four weeks of flowering while the weather is mild. Another reason you may want to do this is to synchronize the life cycle of the plants with the indigenous vegetation. In the northeast and central states, the growing season ends quite early and much of the local vegetation dies back and changes color. Any cannabis plants stick out like green thumbs, and the crop may get ripped off or busted. Plants treated with long nights during late July will be ready to harvest in September. Outdoor growers should always plant several varieties, because some may naturally flower early, even in the northern-most parts of the country. These early-maturing varieties usually come from Mexican, Central Asian, and homegrown sources. By planting several varieties, many of you will be able to find or develop an early-maturing variety after a season or two. This, of course, is an important point, because it eliminates the need for long-night treatments. Preventing Flowers Manipulation of the photoperiod can also prevent the plants from flowering until a desired time. For example, in Hawaii the weather is mild enough to grow winter crops. The normal summer crop is harvested anytime from September to mid-November. The winter crop is generally planted from October to December. Because the winter days are so short, the plants flower almost immediately, usually within two month. The plants are harvested in their third or fourth month and yield about 1/4 the yield of summer plants. A large Hawaiian female can yield a pound of buds. Most of the plant's overall size is reached while it is vegetatively growing. By interrupting the night period with light, you can keep these plants vegetatively growing for another month, yielding plants of about twice the size. The amount of light needed to prevent flowering is quite small (about .03 foot candles95 - on a clear night the full moon is about .01 foot candles). However, each plant mist is illuminated fully, with the light shining over the whole plant. This might be accomplished with either electric light or a strong flashlight. The easiest way is to string incandescent bulbs, keeping them on a timer. The lights need be turned on for only a flash at any time during the night period, from about 9:00 PM to about 3:00 am. The interrupts the long night period to less then nine hours. Start these night treatments each night or two, until you want the plants to flower. Indoors Instructions Natural Light. The growing season lasts all year. The night period is much easier to control. Sometimes people grow plants in their windows for more than a year without any female flowers ever forming. This is because household lamps are turned on sometime at night, illuminating the plants. Under natural light exclusively,

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indoor plants flower at about the same time they would outdoors (sometime a bit sooner because it is warmer indoors or the plants may be shaded). When plants are well developed and you want them to flower, make sure that no household lamps or nearby street lamps are shining on them. During late fall and winter, the natural day-length is short enough for the plants to flower naturally, if you simply keep off any lights at night that are in the same room as the plants. If you must use light, use the lowest wattage possible, such as a six-watt bulb. (The hormone is also least sensitive to blue light.) Shield the light away from the plants. Or shield the plants from any household light with aluminum foil curtains. Once the flowers are forming clusters, you can discontinue the dark treatments, especially if it is more convenient. However, if it is too soon (when you see only a few random flowers), household lights can reverse the process. By using natural light, you can grow indoor crops all year. The winter light is weak and the days are short, so it is best to use artificial lights to supplement daylight, as well as to extend the photoperiod. The extra light will increase the growth rate of the plants and hence size and yield. You should allow winter crops to flower during late January or February, using the natural photoperiod to trigger flowering. If you wait until spring, the natural light period will be too long and may prevent flowering. Artificial Light Instructions Under artificial light the photoperiod is, of course, any length you wish. The most popular way to grow with artificial lights is the harvest system. Start the plants under long light periods of from 16 to 18 hours daily. After the plants have reached a good size, usually between three and six months, shorten the light cycle to about 12 hours to force flowering. To decide exactly when to force the plants to flower, let their growth be the determinant. If male plants are showing their flowers, then the females are physiologically ready to flower. Most of the plant's overall height is achieved during vegetative growth. Some varieties, of course, are smaller and grow more slowly than others. Wait until the plants are nearing the limits of the height of the garden or are at least five feet tall. This is large enough to support good flower development and return a good yield. If you turn down the light cycle when the plants are young and small, you'll harvest much less grass because the plants simply can't sustain a large number of flowers. Some leaf growers prefer a continuous growth system, emphasizing leaf growth and a continuous supply of grass. The light cycle is set for 18 to 24 hours a day. This prevents flowering and the plants continue their rapid vegetative growth. Growing shoots and leaves are harvested as used, and plants are removed whenever they lose their vigor and growth has noticeably slowed. New plants are started in their place. In this way, there will be plants at different growth stages, some of which will be in their rapid vegetative growth stage and will be quite potent. Male plants and some females eventually will form flowers, but the females will not form large clusters. People often use this system when the lights are permanently fixed. Small plants are raised up to the lights on tables or boxes. This garden never shuts down and yields a continuous supply of grass. Variations by Plant Part The concentration of cannabinoids depends on the plant part, or more specifically, the concentration and development of resin glands to plant part. The female flower bracts have the highest concentration of resin glands and are usually the most potent plant parts. Seeds and roots have no resin glands. These shoe no

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more than traces of cannabinoids. Smoke seeds will give you a headache before you can get high. If you got high on seeds, then there were probably enough bracts adhering to the seeds to get you high. Here are the potencies, in descending order, of the various plant parts: 1. Female flowering clusters. In practice you don't separate hundreds of tiny bracts to make a joint. The whole flowering mass (seeds removed), along with small accompanying leaves, forms the material. 2. Male flower clusters. These vary more in relative potency depending on the strain (see "Potency by Sex," below). 3. Growing shoots. Before the plants flower, the vegetative shoots (tips) of the main stem and branches are the most potent plant parts. 4. Leaves (a) that accompany flowers (small); (b) along branches (medium); (c) along main stem (large). Generally, the smaller the leaf is, the more potent it can be. 5. Petioles (leaf stalks). Same order as leaves. 6. Stems. Same order as leaves. The smaller the stem (twig), the higher the possible concentration of cannabinoids. Stems over 1/16" in diameter contain only traces of cannabinoids and are not worth smoking. The small stems that bear the flowers can be quite potent. 7. Seeds and Roots. Contain only traces (less then .01 percent) and are not worth smoking or extracting. This order is fairly consistent. The exceptions can be the small leaves that accompany male flowers, which are sometimes more potent than the flowers themselves. The growing shoots are sometimes more potent than the mature female flowers. Samples of pollen show varying amounts of cannabinoids. Resin glands are found inside the anthers, alongside the developing pollen grains, and form two rows on opposite sides of each anther. Pollen grains are smaller than the heads of large resin glands ({see Plate 7}), and range from 21 to 69 micrometers in diameter21. A small amount of resin contaminates the pollen when glands rupture, but most of the THC in pollen samples comes from gland heads that fall with pollen when the flowers are shaken to collect it. One study, using pollen for the sample, found concentrations of up to 0.96 percent THC, more then enough to get you high79. Cultivation: Indoors or Outdoors? The basic elements of the environment (light, water, air, and soil) provide plants with their fundamental needs. These environmental factors affect the growth rates of plants, as well as their life cycles. If one factor is deficient, growth rate and vigour will wan regardless of the other three. For instance, with low light, the growth will be limited no matter how fertile and moist the soil is. In the same sense, if soil minerals are scarce, the growth rate will be limited no matter how you increase the light. Indoors vs. Outdoors

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CANNABIS PLANTS tips on growing good cannabis.

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At this point the book divides into separate indoor and outdoor cultivation sections, and you may wonder whether it is better to grow the plant indoors or outdoors. Each alternative has advantages and disadvantages. It is usually better to grow the plants outdoors if possible, because the plants can grow much larger and faster than indoor. Indoor presents space and light limitations. It is possible to grow a 15-foot bush indoors, but this is unrealistic in most home. There simply isn't enough room or light for such a large plant. Outdoor gardens return a much higher yield for the effort and expense. most indoor gardeners buy soil and may have to buy electric lights. So there is an initial investment of anywhere from $10 on up. On the other hand, outdoor plants are more likely to be seen. Many gardens get ripped off, and busts are a constant threat. Indoor gardens are much less likely to be discovered. Gardening indoors allows the grower closer contact with the plants. The plants can be grown all year long; it is an easy matter to control their growth cycles and flowering. Probably the biggest attraction of indoor gardens is that they are beautiful to watch and easy to set up anywhere. One popular compromise is to construct a simple greenhouse. Use plastic to either enclose part of a porch or to cover a frame built against the house. The potency of the plants doesn't depend on whether they are grown indoors or outdoors. As long as you grow healthy plants that reach maturity and complete their life cycle, the grass can be as good as any you've ever smoked CANNABIS PLANTS - Tips on growing good cannabis plants.

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How To Increase Marijuana Yields With CO2 | Grow Weed Easy

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Marijuana Yields & CO2
How I Wasted $747.23 on Ineffective CO2 Methods For My Marijuana Garden
Our newsletter subscribers have recently been writing in with lots of questions about how to increase marijuana yields, and many of you have specifically been asking about how to use CO2 (carbon dioxide) to increase yields.

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I want you to know that I've personally wasted a lot of money on ineffective CO2 supplementation methods ($747.23 $747.23 to be exact) exact before I understood exactly how CO2 enrichment works. There are good ways to add CO2... and there are ineffective ways.
Some methods of adding CO2 work great for a small space, but terrible for a larger one, and
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vice versa.
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When I first got started with CO2, I managed to use pretty much all the ineffective ways for my grow space before I found out how to use CO2 the right way. Today I will share everything I wish I’d known about CO2 when I got started, so that you don’t end up wasting money chasing dreams. In this article, you’ll learn exactly how you can use CO2 for faster growth and increased marijuana yields.

What is CO2?
CO2 is short for "Carbon Dioxide," an odorless gas that’s in the air you’re breathing right now. While humans and mammals need oxygen to breathe all the time, plants “breathe” in CO2 (though marijuana and most plants only use CO2 during the day, they actually “breathe” out CO2 at night!).
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Plants need CO2 to grow, and in certain cases, you can inject extra CO2 into your grow room during the day to increase the speed of plant growth. When people are talking about how much CO2 is in the air, they generally measure in “PPM” or “parts per million.” The amount of CO2 is approximately 300-400 PPM in regular air (0.03-0.04% of the air is CO2).

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How can plants use more CO2 than what’s found naturally in the air?
A long time ago, there was a lot more CO2 in the air than there is now. Some scientists believe that this is why many plants can take advantage of more CO2 than what’s naturally found in the air.

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CO2 enrichment is only effective during the “day” period.
Like all plants, marijuana stops using CO2 during the night (dark period). CO2 is primarily used by the plant as part of photosynthesis (turning light into energy). Therefore, flooding your grow area with CO2 only provides benefits when the lights are on.

How does CO2 affect marijuana growth?
CO2 in Vegetative Stage
CO2 is most effective at increasing the speed of vegetative growth, so adding extra CO2 is one way to grow bigger plants in less time during marijuana’s vegetative stage of growth.

CO2 in Flowering Stage
Almost all growers seems to agree that you can get increased growth and even bud production by running CO2 during the first 2-3 weeks of flowering. After flowering is fully underway, many growers believe that CO2 isn’t as effective, and it’s true that CO2 has not been proven to directly improve bud production beyond the first few weeks of the flowering stage. However, a lot of growers feel from personal experience that running CO2 does increase bud production. Some growers recommend that you keep running CO2 all the way until 2 weeks before harvest.

Benefits of Adding Extra CO2
If you’ve maxed out the other limiting factors (especially light), CO2 can make your plants grow faster, produce bigger plants, and enhance your yields. Maintaining 1200-1500 PPM of CO2 in the grow area allows growers to keep temperatures much higher than normal It can be beneficial for security since you’re not venting out hot, potentially smelly air (you must seal off the grow area for CO2 supplementation to be effective)

Disadvantages of Adding Extra CO2 As far as light intensity is concerned, plants must be receiving about 7500-10000 lumens

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of light per sq foot for CO2 enrichment to be effective Adding extra CO2 won’t help if your plants are already suffering from nutrient deficiencies or other plant problems In order to keep CO2 near the plants, you must seal up grow area so it’s airtight, which can make it harder to manage temperature and humidity Can be expensive to inject enough CO2 into your grow area to be effective You must keep temperatures between 85°F (30°C) and 95°F (35°C) in order for CO2 enrichment to be effective Every time you check on your plants, you’ll be letting out all the CO2 CO2 is bad for you at high levels, so you need to take precautions to

How Can I Add More CO2 To My Grow Room?

There are 7 popular ways of adding CO2 to the air of your grow area... 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
CO2 Generator Compressed CO2 Dry ice Fermentation CO2 Bag Compost Breathing in Grow Area

It’s common for growers try to add CO2 to their grow area, without realizing that something else is limiting the growth of their plants.

Learn more about whether CO2 Enrichment Is Right For Your Garden...

Some Considerations When Deciding If CO2 Is Right For You...

You must maintain 1200-1500 PPM of CO2 in the air of your grow area for CO2 enrichment to be most effective.
Growers seem to agree that optimal CO2 is 1200-1500 PPM in your grow room. If there’s less CO2 than that (especially under 1000 PPM), you won’t get good results with CO2 supplementation. When the CO2 drops under 300 PPM, plant growth will slow down or even stop completely. If you have a very small grow space (like the inside of a cupboard), then you may be able to maintain 1200-1500 PPM of CO2 in the area with one of the cheaper methods of CO2 enrichment (dry ice, fermentation, CO2

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bags, or even breathing). If you’ve got a larger grow space (such as a closet, a grow tent, or a room) it will be hard to maintain enough CO2 in the air without investing in one of the more expensive options like a CO2 generator or compressed CO2. Scroll down to the “Check It Out” section below to learn exactly what you need.

You must maintain very high temperatures, between 85°F (30°C) and 95°F (35°C).
When you’re adding CO2, you will get the best results at higher temperatures.
Normally you want your garden to be a comfortable room temperature, but when adding CO2, you want to keep temps above 85°F (30°C). (30°C) Many growers recommend you keep temps as high as 95°F (35°C). (35°C) If the temperature is lower than 85°F (30°C), you won’t see much benefit from adding CO2. However, since you must seal your grow room to keep all the CO2 from escaping, it'll likely be easy to keep temps that high when you're running your grow lights. Which brings me to the next point...

You must seal your grow room to keep all the extra CO2 inside.
If you don’t enrich the area with CO2 and have bad ventilation in your grow area, all the CO2 will very quickly get used up by the plants and plants will stop growing and eventually die. Yet if you add extra CO2, it’s like adding more “fresh air” that your plants can use, only at higher levels than what is naturally found in the air. So, if you want to add extra CO2 at levels above what’s found in the air, you need to seal up your grow area. If you can’t seal your grow area so it’s airtight, then any CO2 you are adding will leak out and CO2 will return to normal levels. For the best results, you want the entire grow area to be sealed so the CO2 stays near your plants. Luckily, with CO2 you must keep the temperature much hotter than normal, which helps you deal with the heat from lights in a sealed area without ventilation. However, if your sealed grow area still gets too hot from your lights, one option is to seal your hood and hook it up to the exhaust. In other words, after you’ve sealed your light, you can set up an intake and exhaust fan to blow air cool over the lights and have an exhaust fan vent out the hot air without also venting out all your CO2. Another option is to invest in an air conditioner.

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CO2 should “fall” onto plants.
CO2 is heavier than air and will sink to the bottom of your grow area, so you you want your CO2 to float down onto your plants. That means any CO2 enrichment method should be located above your plants You’ll get the best results when you make sure CO2 is evenly dispersed over your plants. A small fan on the floor pointed upwards can help keep the CO2 circulating through the room and floating over your plants.

Avoid breathing the CO2
CO2 is bad for humans at the levels you want to achieve for your plants. Therefore it’s important to plan your setup so you can avoid breathing in the air from your grow room for any length of time.
You can save money by turning off CO2 enrichment at night.
Because plants actually stop breathing in CO2 and start giving off CO2 at night, you should make sure that your CO2 enrichment system is turned off when the lights go out! In fact, you can save money by having your CO2 enrichment turn on a half hour after your lights do, and turn off a half hour before your lights turn off. In other words, have your CO2 off for about an hour longer than your dark period. This will save you an hour’s worth of CO2 injection each day and in tests has proven this will not affect the CO2 effectiveness.

You must have already maxed out on your grow lights (light intensity) for CO2 enrichment to be effective.
Adding CO2 won’t help anything unless you’ve already maxed out other limiting factors, such as light intensity. Without big powerful lights, like an 1000W HID or a few 600W HIDs, most growers aren’t able to max out the light intensity marijuana can naturally use at regular CO2 levels. A good rule of thumb is you should have at least 7500-10000 lumens per sq foot in your grow area to get the full benefits of enriching with CO2.

You need to have maxed out on almost all other growing factors and eliminate major growing problems in order to see the biggest benefit from adding CO 2.
I’d like to point out that there are many cheap/free ways to increase your marijuana yields, and many of these are going to be more effective in increasing your yields than adding CO2. Before you consider CO2, you must have eliminated plant problems from your grow. I’d say that the number one way to increase your yields is to

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prevent plant problems. If you’re suffering from plant problems like [too much nitrogen] or [nutrient deficiencies], you should start here when considering how to increase yields, since these will negatively affect your yields much more than any benefit you get from CO2. If you’ve already mastered the basics of growing and have healthy plants in your garden, then [training your plants properly in the vegetative stage] and choosing the [most intense grow lights you can afford] are the next steps you should take to majorly improve your yields. Mastering these factors will often be more effective for increasing your yields than adding CO2. Your plants can only grow as much as allowed by the lowest limiting factor, and usually that factor is something else besides CO2. It’s common for growers try to add CO2 to their grow area, without realizing that something else is limiting the growth of their plants. Yet if you have already perfected the other factors of your grow, then adding the right amount of CO2 has been shown to increase overall vegetative growth by up to 20%. If you’ve maxed out your limiting factors and sealed your grow room, than adding CO2 could be the final piece to take your grow to the next level, providing you with quicker harvests, bigger plants and enhanced yields.
Still Considering CO2?

If you’re considering CO2, ask yourself...
Have I maxed out on the amount of light my plants are able to use? (at least 7500-10000 lumens per sq foot, usually only possible with a 600W or 1000W HID light, or a few 400W HID lights close together) Have I already eliminated all problems from my grow such as nutrient problems, bugs, etc? Have I already mastered (easy and free) [growth control methods] to increase my yields? Am I willing to seal up my grow area so it’s airtight? Can I maintain temperatures between 85°F (30°C) and 95°F (35°C) in my grow area? Can I keep humidity below 70% in vegetative and 60% in flowering in my sealed room while running CO2? (Remember, if you use a CO2 generator, it will increase the humidity of the air dramatically so you may need to get a dehumidifier)

If your answer is “Yes” to all those questions, than CO2 enrichment may be right for you and your garden.

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Supplementing CO2 is a great choice for those who have maxed out their other options and are willing to spend the money to do CO2 right. For these growers, supplementing with CO2 can increase the number of crops grown per year and allow them to grow bigger plants. If you’ve got a big grow operation, the bigger yields you get each year will pay for the CO2 investment many times over in the long run.

Unless you’ve got a very tiny grow area, the most effective CO2 enrichment method is to either invest in a CO2 generator or to buy tanked or bottled CO2, and then combine your enrichment method with a CO2 regulator. But you don’t need to figure this all out on your own! Scroll down to our “Check It Out” section to be guided through the process of buying the right CO2 method for your grow. Now you don’t have to waste $747.23 on ineffective CO2 methods like I did. You are armed with the information to pick the right CO2 enrichment method for your space.
And now, learn about the different ways to supplement CO2... 1. CO2 Generator (burns propane, ethyl alcohol or natural gas)

Pros:
Many of these can be hooked up to a monitor for no-worries, automatic CO2 enrichment Generates CO2 by burning propane, denatured alcohol, or natural gas The smell from combustion can help cover up odors

Cons:
Increases humidity a sealed grow room Can produce a bit of heat Output can be hard to regulate and very unsafe when using the cheaper methods of CO2 generation (like burning denatured alcohol in a small stove) Because this method uses and open flame and combustion to produce CO2 in a sealed area, there are many safety and fire concerns with this method unless you buy a CO2 generator that has safety features to help prevent a fire In order to burn enough fuel to reach the proper CO2 levels, you sometimes run into adverse side effects, such as producing an unhealthy amount of dangerous carbon monoxide. It’s dangerous to store your bottled fuels indoors (some people are able to use their

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municipal natural gas, and don’t need to store fuel, which makes this point moot for them).

2. Compressed CO2 (bottled CO2 or CO2 tanks)

Pros:
Simple, effective way to get started Ability to have fine control over PPM in room using a regulator or controller Can be automated with a controller, so relatively automatic once everything is set up

Cons:
The equipment you need to get started is expensive, this is one of the most expensive ways to get started with enriching CO2 You must lug tanks of CO2 to and from your grow area, which is a possible security concern depending on your grow area and where you get your CO2 Tanks can explode if there’s a fire You can enrich the air with CO2 beyond what’s safe for plants or people, so you must use great care to keep the PPM in the right range, and to avoid breathing air in your sealed grow area. In some places, you may need a permit or license to get tanked or bottled CO2

Note: It’s usually cheaper to get tanked CO2 from a welding supply store as opposed to a hydroponics store

3. Dry ice

Pros:
Very small cost to get started, since dry ice is relatively cheap and easy to obtain The biggest safety hazard is burning your skin from touching the dry ice without protection Does not raise temperature of grow room, in fact will slightly cool grow room

Cons:
Can be a huge pain and expense in the long run since dry ice doesn’t last long Must manually keep adding dry ice at least once/day, which can be tough considering you need to keep an airtight seal in your grow room

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Can be very tough to regulate the CO2 levels in the air Dry ice must be used almost immediately, so you’ll be constantly going back for me

4. Fermentation

Pros:
Cheap and easy to get started Safe (no dangerous components)

Cons:
Can be hard to produce enough CO2 to be effective You can’t easily regulate the CO2 PPM levels Can cause an unpleasant odor during the fermentation process Impossible to automate, you will need to manually check CO2 levels, and take steps on a regular basisto keep the fermentation process going

5. CO2 Bags

Pros:
Very Cheap Uses mycelial mass (fungi) growing on organic matter to produce CO2, so this method is all-natural and doesn’t have dangerous components Can be effective for a very small grow space

Cons:
Hard to produce enough CO2 to be effective, some growers need to hang 3-4 or more bags over their plants in order to achieve the right PPM in their grow area, Some growers have trouble getting the fungus to grow properly (although you’re not supposed to need to do anything for these bags to work) Tough to regulate the CO2 PPM in your grow area and keep CO2 at optimal levels

6. Compost

Pros:
Can be cheap to get started if you do it yourself

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Cons:
Often smelly and unsanitary With home-made compost, it's difficult to produce enough CO2 to acheive 1200-1500 PPM The pre-made systems like CO2 Boost are expensive and still don't produce enough CO2

6. Breathing in Grow Room

Pros:
Free since humans breathe in oxygen and breath out CO2 No equipment needed

Cons:
Must spend a significant amount of time in the sealed grow area Hard to exit the grow area without letting out all the CO2 It’s not healthy or safe for a human to spend time in an area with CO2 levels that are high enough to enrich plants

Check it Out!
How To Get Started With a CO2 Generator or Compressed CO2

“The yeast or whatever they are methods are pretty pointless. I run at 1500 ppm. I've run co2 for years. I've noticed larger yields, more heat tolerant plants, and sooner harvest times. I burn propane but I've used tanks for years prior. Highly recommend it.” - Aquanaut38 So you’re ready to add CO2 to your grow room? Option 1: Tanks or Bottles of Compressed CO2 Compressed CO2 usually comes in metal containers that are under high pressure. It’s often cheaper to buy compressed CO2 from a welding supply store as opposed to a gardening or hydroponic store. The most expensive part about adding CO2 to your grow room with compressed CO2 is the initial investment in parts. After that it's pretty

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cheap to refill your CO2 tanks. You need a tank, valve, timer and ppm meter. While it is expensive to get everything up front, a single tank of compressed CO2 could last several grows by itself, and refills are cheap when you find the right place. If all you have is a compressed CO2 with a regulator and timer (no automatic CO2 PPM monitoring system), you'll want to inject the room with CO2 for small periods of time while the lights are on. You may have to measure the PPM of CO2 over time and keep adjusting how much CO2 is released until you figure out how to maintain a CO2 PPM between 1200-1500 PPM The nice CO2 tanks can be hooked up to a meter (a
CO2 PPM monitor) that

measures how much CO2 is in the air and adjusts your CO2 output as needed. For plant growth, you want your CO2 to be between 1200-1500 PPM. The meter is attached to your CO2 tank, and it will start injecting more CO2 into the air above your plants when CO2 levels drop below the optimum. This effectively automates the whole system.

Bottled CO2 can be purchased online, at most hydroponic or at welding stores. These come with a regulator/flow meter which you will need to adjust in order to output the correct amount of CO2. To use this method of enriching CO2, you will need the following equipment: 1. Compressed CO2 2. Pressure regulator, Flow Meter and Solenoid valve 3. Either a CO2 PPM monitor / controller or a regulator with timer 4. Any Connecting tubing, fittings and adapters Watch a Youtube video showing the right way to use compressed CO2:
Option 2: CO2 Generator

A CO2 generator burns propane, natural gas or occasionally
alcohol. This creates a chemical reaction that produces CO2 + water vapor.

denatured

The cheaper methods of producing CO2 this way (such as a bunsen burner) use an open flame, which is a terrible fire hazard, especially considering you are keeping temperatures above 85°F (30°C) when flooding your grow area with extra CO2.

Because of the hot temperature and the electrical equipment and water that are already in your grow area, I highly recommend against adding a cheap CO2 burner into your grow room and risking a fire. However, more advanced CO2 generators have been specifically built for gardening applications, and these are a much better choice for a gardener as they’re built with many safety features. They may be water cooled, have an automatic shut-off feature, include a valve to handle municipal gas, an overheating sensor, a tipping sensor, and more.

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Please note: As you’re burning propane or natural gas to get CO2, this chemical reaction also adds water vapor into the air and increases your humidity. The increase in humidity is even greater when you generate a lot of CO2 or have a very small grow area. This extra humidity can become problematic in some cases, especially since you must seal your grow area to keep the CO2 inside. If you’re not carefully monitoring the humidity, you may put your plants at increased risk for mold (remember, humidity should always be below 70% in vegetative, and below 60% in flowering). A strong dehumidifier may be what you’re looking for in this scenario.
To use this method of enriching CO2, you will need the following equipment: 1. CO2 Generator 2. Controller to regulate CO2 PPM in room and turn off CO2 injection at night 3. (Possibly) Dehumidifier
4. (Possibly) Air conditioner

Keep in mind: How will you find propane or natural gas on a regular basis? Some homes get municipal natural gas, and this can sometimes be hooked up directly to a CO2 generator

(Optional) Complete Climate Controller Some CO2 controllers can be integrated with a complete climate controller (often sold for people growing with hydroponics). A climate controller can will monitor and adjust your fans, CO2 injection and other factors so you automatically maintain the right temperature, air movement, humidity and CO2. If you’re not going to get a CO2 controller and need to use a timer... If you’re not going to use a controller (which is what you want to do if you can afford it,) you will need to calculate how much CO2 to add to your grow area and use a timer to control how much CO2 gets added.
To calculate the amount of CO2 needed to enrich the air of a room to 1200-1500 ppm of CO2, this is what you do:

1.

Calculate the volume of the growing area by multiplying width x length x height.

Example: If you had a closet that was 5 ft x 4 ft, and the ceiling is 8 feet high, you would
multiple 5 x 4 x 8 = 160 cubic feet of space in your grow area.

2.

Determine the CO2 needed to enrich room to 1200 or 1500 ppm by multiplying the volume of space by 0.0012 or 0.0015 respectively.

Example: So to get 1200 PPM of CO2 in my 160 cubic feet closet, I’d multiple 160 x .0012 =
0.768 Thus, 0.192 cubic feet (or you can round up to 0.2 cu ft) of CO2 will be needed to

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bring the CO2 in this room up to 1200 ppm. When you’re buying tanks, 1 lb of CO2 is equivalent to ~8.5 cu ft.

3.

If you have a sealed room, then you will need to keep adding CO2 based on how much your plants are using. If the room is not sealed, you will need to replace CO2 at a rate equal to the amount plants use plus what’s being vented out. It’s recommended that you regularly test and monitor that CO2 levels are staying where you want them to be.

Because this is tough for most growers to calculate accurately, it’s highly recommended you get a controller that measures and regulates the amount of CO2, and adjust the CO2 injection based on the current readings.

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FIM Your Way to Multiple Colas! | Grow Weed Easy

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FIM Your Way to Multiple Colas!
by Sirius Fourside
FIMing: The act of pinching or cutting a young cannabis plant in such a

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way as to force it to grow 4 main colas instead of one. FIM is used as a word itself, but is actually an acronym for “F**k, I missed!”
So what exactly is FIMing?

FIMing is an easy way for growers to dramatically increase their yields while also making the plant more manageable for limited spaces. I know that sounds too good to be true, but it’s definitely the case! The problem with the natural growth pattern of the cannabis plant is that it tends to be shaped like a Christmas tree. This is inefficient, and not very good for indoor growing since the main cola will typically receive much more light than the rest of the plant. When you FIM your marijuana plant, it grows 4 main colas instead of one (this is where the extra yields come from). Next, the grower would typically tie those 4 colas down a bit to help force the plant into having a flat canopy. This allows you to lower your lights and makes it so most of the plant is receiving a higher overall amount of light. Whenever you see a picture of a marijuana plant with multiple large buds that are at a similar height, the grower almost certainly used FIMing or another technique called ‘Topping’ to achieve this. At this point, choosing whether to FIM or not might seem like a no-brainer, and I agree that it’s a technique that most growers should employ. However, nothing is absolute, and there could be a few scenarios where FIMing isn’t for you: If you’re doing a tiny microgrow, such as in a computer case Was this page helpful?: * Yes No Comments or Suggestions:
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In tiny stealth microgrows, there isn’t always room for an effective FIM.
If you’re doing '12/12 from seed'

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Your plant will get close to skipping the vegetative stage, and that’s the only time to FIM.
Auto-flowering strains

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It's generally a bad idea to top OR FIM auto-flowering marijuana plants, as they don't have enough time to recover before they start flowering, similar to plants grown 12/12 from seed
You don’t like having lots of weed at your disposal

I know that sounds like a joke (it was, a bit), but some places have limits to the amount of weed you can possess, and FIMing could actually get you in more trouble in some cases because of all the extra buds you will produce.
FIMing vs. Topping

First, what is ‘Topping’? Topping is a technique similar to FIMing, wherein you cut a young cannabis plant to create extra colas. However, unlike FIMing, the Topping technique produces 2 colas instead of 4. If you would like to learn how to Top your plant, check out our Topping tutorial on GrowWeedEasy.com. This article is about FIMing, and does not go in depth about Topping. FIMing can be a superior choice in many cases. Why FIM instead of Top? FIMing is less traumatic to the plant

When you FIM your cannabis, you only need to pinch the newest growth, which doesn't really stress your plant much. With Topping, totally removing the newest growth is necessary, which is a stressful event for young marijuana plants.
FIMing barely slows down plant growth; Topping slows down plant growth considerably for a short period.

When you FIM your plant, you will see recovery move at a much higher speed than with Topping. When I FIM one of my plants at the beginning of the day, I can usually already see it adjusting by bedtime.
FIMing creates 4 main colas at once, while Topping only creates 2.

Double the main colas…no explanation needed!
It’s easy to FIM a plant more than once!

I wouldn’t necessarily advise this

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tactic for growers who are new to FIMing, but definitely keep this in mind! You can FIM your cannabis plant more than once, and with some Low Stress Training, Training you get plants with dozens of colas like the one to the right.
Nebula says - In my experience, FIMing causes my plants to grow
bushier than topping, even when I do it to the same strain. I will choose to top marijuana plants when I’m trying to achieve a specific shape that requires a complete split of the cola, like main-lining.

Sirius says - Although this last point is anecdotal evidence,
I have to say that I’ve experienced the same thing. FIMing causes plants to dramatically "bush out" more than topping.
How to FIM Your Marijuana Plants

There are three important factors we need to pay attention to when FIMing your plants for the first time: 1. Pinch vs. Cut – What method do we use to remove/damage the new growth and force new colas? 2. Amount – How much do I pinch/cut? 3. Timing – At what point in the plants development do we FIM?
Pinch vs. Cut

When you’re FIMing your plant, you have the option of either cutting off a piece of the new growth or pinching it. Both have the potential to work equally well at forcing the plant to create new colas. However, I strongly recommend pinching your plant instead of cutting it since pinching leaves more room for error. Another benefit of pinching is that it leaves the damaged foliage on the plant. This way, your girls at least have a chance to continue using those leaves if they can, whereas with cutting they don’t have the option. Here’s a case: In my last grow, I saw a few weird looking leaves that appeared to be chewed-up. Upon further examination, and judging by where I found them, I determined that they were actually pinched leaves! The plant kept those leaves, and used them to make energy all the way til harvest!
Amount

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When FIMing your plants, the amount you’ll want to pinch is actually quite small. You’re basically pinching the tips of the leaves of the newest growth on the main cola that hasn’t ‘stretched-out’ yet. See the picture further down for a good example.
Timing

The first pinch or cut in a FIM should happen when your plant has 3-5 nodes (or sets of leaves) in total. Once that initial FIM has been completed and the plant has recovered, a grower can use his/her discretion to determine when to FIM again as it’s mostly based on plant health and desired shape. Just remember to make sure your plant looks healthy and recovered before FIMing again!

Techniques to Get the Most Out of FIMing

Now that you know the basics of FIMing, take a look at some of these other growing techniques. I use these same techniques (in combination with FIMing) to maximize the amount of weed I get per harvest while keeping the total amount of work low. There are MANY other techniques you can use in combination with FIMing to increase your yields, but in my opinion, these two in particular (with FIM) offer the highest return on investment.
Low Stress Training – Train your plants to grow as a flat surface;

easily double your harvest.
Defoliation – Advanced, but well worth it. More buds exposed to light

means more, bigger buds!

Strains That Are Especially Good For FIMing

FIMing is such a versatile technique, that pretty much any marijuana strain is a perfect candidate for it! However, some strains are experts at recovering and getting HUGE

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RETURNS on growth control techniques! These are a few strains I’ve grown personally that each gave me at least 6 ounces or dried & cured, super sticky bud per plant.
Aurora Indica

Sirius: This plant effortlessly bends, breaks, recovers, and flourishes. That plus a naturally high yield, pungent diesel smell, and high potency make this a Aurora a must have. Seriously, try growing it!
PPP (Pure Power Plant)

Sirius: Funky smell, crazy potency, and super resilience are all attributes of the Pure Power Plant. I’ve once cut off the top 4 nodes of this strain in a panic(it got too big, too fast). This plant totally healed its stem in 2 days and never stopped growing the whole time.
Wonder Woman

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Sirius: Wonder Woman has recently become one of my favorite strains. You can FIM it in the morning and watch it recover before the day ends. That combined with crazy fast growth patterns, the highest yields on this list, and a nose-wrinkling diesel smell make this strains name remarkably accurate.

Tags Advanced FIM Grow methods to increase yields Marijuana Growth Control Methods Yields Plant Height

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Super Cropping Marijuana: Simple Secret to Bigger Yields | Grow...

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Super Cropping Marijuana: Simple Secret to Bigger Yields
Skip intro and jump straight to tutorial on how to super crop marijuana instructions. What You Need to Super Crop Marijuana: Your fingers Duct tape The knowledge of what to do (jump to super crop tutorial) Cannabis is the only known plant that naturally creates THC (which, along with CBD and other cannabinoids, cannabinoids make these plants of particular interest to humans). THC is the principal 'thing' in the cannabis plant that causes the plant's well-loved psychoactive effects. THC is produced mostly in the flowers of the female cannabis plants. But cannabinoid-like substances are abundant in almost all plants and animals, including humans. In fact, humans and mammals naturally have a ton of receptors for cannabinoids throughout our brain and bodies. If you've ever slept, eaten, forgotten, or relaxed, then you've used your Endocannabinoid system (yay for being a mammal!) and natural cannabinoids.

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Ok, yet why does the cannabis plant produce THC, which causes major psychotropic effects? Was this page helpful?: * Yes No Comments or In the wild, deer and many other creatures might eat marijuana flowers, which would prevent the plants from making seeds and reproducing. Yet, as far as we can tell, most animals won't strip a whole marijuana Suggestions:

Did you know that THC is produced by the marijuana plant for protection? protection
Obviously it's not doing a great job protecting the plants from humans! :) (Or maybe it is good for them since we keep cultivating these plants...)

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plant of ALL her buds. Either they think cannabinoids taste terrible, or maybe they hate the effects. Therefore we believe the plants use THC as a way to deter predators.

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Maybe the animals just forget what they're doing and wander off...
Because these plants use THC to protect against predators, when marijuana plants are stressed, they'll put their bud and cannabinoid production into overdrive as a last ditch effort to protect themselves. Why is that all important? For a marijuana plant, creating the prized cannabinoid-laden buds (which are used to make seeds) is their life's work. As a marijuana farmer, it's your job to understand what causes marijuana plants to produce the biggest, most potent buds possible. So I'm going to let you in on a big secret to getting the biggest, best buds when growing marijuana... While marijuana growers want to make sure that these plants survive until harvest, keeping them as absolutely healthy as possible in a 100% perfect environment won't get you the best results. Instead, the best buds are produced when you learn how to stress the plants in just the right way to increase bud and cannabinoid production. Which brings me to super cropping, one of the easiest, most effective ways to stress your marijuana plant for better harvests. This remarkably simple technique will dramatically increase your yields, and all it takes is your fingers, fingers duct tape, tape and the knowledge of what to do. It's based on the idea we just discussed of stressing the plant so she goes crazy with bud production. What is Super Cropping? Super cropping is the name for a High-Stress Training (HST) technique when you stress the plant by slightly hurting it in a planned way. As a result, the plant will grow bushier, with more buds, and higher THC levels. This is the plant's natural response to protect herself in the wild, in case things go wrong.

How to Super Crop Marijuana
STEP ONE: Choose the branches you would like to super-crop.

Super-cropping is best done during the vegetative stage, once the plant has grown a few healthy branches and is growing vigorously, but before she is full into the flowering stage.
For super-cropping, you want to choose parts of the plant that are old, but still bendy. The parts you use this technique on should still be green,

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and not wood-like the bottom of the main stalk. When there are multiple colas, you should super-crop the same location on multiple colas. When there's only one main cola, you supercrop the bendy, greener growth towards the top. STEP TWO: Grab the branch and squeeze with firm pressure between your thumb and forefinger. Maintain this pressure as you slowly bend the branch back and forth until you hear a or feel a slight snap. When possible, try to bend the marijuana plant in the direction that you would like for her to grow. The idea is to damage the inner tissue of the plant as much as you can without causing much damage to the outside 'skin.' Some growers just grab each branch and snap them quickly, but doing this makes it more likely you'll snap the outside tissue and need tape With that being said, these plants are surprisingly resilient. If you don't bend the super-crop site hard enough, she will just bounce back to where she was in a few hours. You know you've succeeded when the plant now appears somewhat 'broken' and now rests at a 90 degree angle where you bent her, and the branch stays down.

This illustration shows a perfect example of a super crop, one that doesn't even need tape. Use tape if you go a little overboard. If you bend her the perfect amount, her outside tissue will be mostly intact, but the branch will not be able to stand itself up, which is the best case scenario. But even if you super crop too much or too gently, this process will cause her to grow a whole bunch of new colas, and leaves, because she doesn't want to put all her effort into one branch that has probably just been attacked by animals. STEP THREE: In the best case scenario, you don't even need tape, because the outside of the plant is still whole.

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If you've gone a bit overboard, you may need to use duct tape (or another strong tape) to reinforce the plant so she can heal properly, especially if you can see a open slit or crack on the outside of the stem. Regardless, the place that you originally bent will grow a big 'knot' almost like a permanent band-aid, which can transport more water, nutrients, and other good stuff compared to before. STEP FOUR: Wait about one week before removing any tape. It's normal for the tissues to have discoloration at the healing sites. If the site is still grey and appears totally wounded, just put the tape back on until she has grown her protective 'knuckle'. Until then, she'll be able to transport nutrients and maintain all normal processes as long as she has the tape to reinforce her. If plant tries to straighten any branches, just tie them down. They'll easily give in to your will after being super cropped. FINAL RESULT: More buds, more branches, and a shorter, more controlled and bushy plant. Perfect for closet, stealth grows.

click for closeups
Unlike topping or extensively plucking leaves, super cropping does not dramatically slow down the growth of the plant (though you should expect to giver her a little time to recover), while giving you many of the same benefits of these other High Stress Training techniques. Try super cropping today!

White Widow is a perfect strain for super cropping

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FOR SERIOUS GROWERS ONLY You've told me you're looking for a complete guide to growing marijuana that covers everything, from beginner to ultra-advanced. And super cropping is just one technique to getting seriously killer harvests. If you want to learn ALL the secrets... Learn from the best! Invest in the most advanced Grow Bible Available: Growing Elite Marijuana + 6 bonuses (including one-of-a-kind comprehensive strain guide) Total care explained step-by-step... indoors... outdoors... Monster cropping... advanced growth control... bud production secrets... and much, much more... Over 700 pages of pictures, tutorials and advanced insider tips! Get Instant Access to It All Right Here: GrowWeedEasy.com/growing-elitemarijuana

I thought I already knew it all, but after I went through this grow bible, I discovered that there were still lots of easy ways I could increase my yields and grow even more potent buds! I find myself going back to it again and again for new ideas.
-Nebula

About Nebula Haze In response to the need for more tutorials aimed at new growers, Nebula co-founded GrowWeedEasy.com in 2010 with fellow grower Sirius Fourside. Since then, Nebula has published dozens of growing articles in print and online, and continues to dedicate herself to serving the medical marijuana growing community. "My mission is to show other medical marijuana patients how easy it can be to grow weed out of your closet."

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of it without permission. Please don't hesitate to Contact GrowWeedEasy.com with any questions. Happy growing!

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(Experienced Growers Only) Controversial Defoliation Increases Marijuana Yields
by Keef Treez "The Defoliator"

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Defoliation is an extreme marijuana growth technique. It's not to be done lightly. In fact, the topic of defoliation is one of the most controversial subjects in the marijuana growing field. People on both sides defend their position vehemently. I'm on the side that believe there is absolutely nothing stressful about defoliation or bending branches. Honestly, there is no way to achieve nearly a pound of buds from a 2-3 foot tall plant indoors, except using defoliation. Opponents often have arguments like, "PLANTS NEED THOSE LEAVES! If they didn't, they wouldn't be there." Or my all-time favorite, "I have a friend who used to grow, and he insists that will hurt the plant." Yet the saddest part of all is how so few people are willing to look at the evidence. In some ways, I almost would prefer the rest of the growing world keep up their ill-advised lollipopping, removing growing tips, and other low-yield techniques. The defoliation technique has been loudly condemned by "experienced" growers for decades. Nevertheless, I am determined to educate other growers about defoliating and let them see the results for themselves. So let me start by giving you some picture proof that defoliation works (make sure you scroll down to see all of them!). You see, I've been defoliating intensively for 30 years. I am now training plants to be 32" tall and 32" round and yielding 250-400 grams under 400 watt lamp.
Nebula Haze from GrowWeedEasy.com: Yes, that's right, he said 8-14 OUNCES
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8/12/2013 11:43 PM

(Experienced Growers Only) Controversial Defoliation Increases Ma...

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buds of marijuana harvested off each short, easy-to-manage 32" tall plant, using just a regular 400 watt HID grow light.

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Here are two of my beauties (the one on the right needs a good plucking)

How-To Tutorial: The Controversial Technique of Defoliation
Despite all the evidence (I've posted hundreds of pictures and shown dozens of growers in person), there is still somehow so much skepticism about defoliation techniques. Growers, especially new growers, often just say variations of, "It's common sense, how could removing any part of the plant cause you to get higher yields?" I recently attended an advanced seminar with a prominent fellow grower and got roundly booed when attempting to describe the defoliation technique, even with pictures showing dramatic benefits. Unlike many other growers, I believe what's most important is studying how the plant actually grows, grows instead of assuming she grows how we think she should grow. Real experimentation and unbiased observers are the only way growers are going to learn how to get the best yields for the amount of time, money, and effort. And it's true that some types of defoliation are brutal to the plants (such as when misguided growers removing all the leaves off extremely young marijuana plants), but other types of defoliation are actually hugely beneficial to increasing yields (I'll be showing you exactly what do do shortly). And defoliation is beneficial for more than just marijuana, it also has been

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8/12/2013 11:43 PM

(Experienced Growers Only) Controversial Defoliation Increases Ma...

http://www.growweedeasy.com/marijuana-defoliation-tutorial

proven to increase yields for certain other types of crops. For example, it's well-known that cowpeas experience significant increases in yields when up to 50% of their leaves are defoliated during their flowering stage... (source)

This marijuana girl is 32" tall (the dimensions of this girl are 32"x32"x32" to be exact). She was intensely defoliated throughout her life.

And it's true that the real beauty of defoliation is difficult to translate in pictures and verbally. But I will do my best to give you everything you need to start producing your own huge yields with marijuana defoliation. But First, Let Me Show You About Increased Bud Production With Defoliation During the Flowering Stage Before plucking

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8/12/2013 11:43 PM

(Experienced Growers Only) Controversial Defoliation Increases Ma...

http://www.growweedeasy.com/marijuana-defoliation-tutorial

Immediately After Plucking

Just 4 days later, later look at the incredible bud growth

Only 4 Days After That (after another defoliation session)

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(Experienced Growers Only) Controversial Defoliation Increases Ma...

http://www.growweedeasy.com/marijuana-defoliation-tutorial

Are you beginning to see the power of defoliation?
How Early Do You Start Defoliating?

I first started defoliating in desperation after many years of SOG, which I feel has proven to be too much work for inconsistent yields. After much experimentation, I've found my yields have been more consistent when training a single plant to use this space instead of 4 or 9 or 25 SOG clones. Never mind the fact that in many states, patients are limited to just a handful of plants, removing SoG as a viable option. Most growers who are curious about this do not want to perform defoliation on small plants. They consider the practice in veg to be too radical. And I 100% agree that totally stripping your seedlings of all leaves will be devastating to their growth. And the honest truth is that defoliation isn't for everyone. Beginners are often already dealing with the drawbacks to their choice of method or media, and defoliation can be disastrous to any but the healthiest of plants. Because of this, I sometimes hesitate to throw defoliation into the mix of challenges for beginning growers and I strongly advise any growers to experiment with defoliation (or with any extreme growth control method) in the vegetative stage only where there is nothing at stake. stake That being said, I believe the only reason you should allow a marijuana plant to leaf out completely is in an outdoor situation where you want as large a plant as possible. In that case you can save deleafing for mid to late summer after full-stretch and branching. The way I practice this method (growing indoors) leaves never get a chance to age. No leaves are allowed more than about two weeks

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8/12/2013 11:43 PM

(Experienced Growers Only) Controversial Defoliation Increases Ma...

http://www.growweedeasy.com/marijuana-defoliation-tutorial

existence. I start at the top in order to remove the shading. Removing lower leaf contributes nothing to the strategy of exposing usually shaded out mid and lower growth to premium light. I still remove older shabby leaves to keep it all tidy. And this is where defoliation gets controversial. Many growers feel that controlling their plant in any way during the vegetative stage will significantly reduce yields. And I understand how it can seem that way, especially to new growers, before you've gone through the entire life cycle of the marijuana plant a few times. Experiments show, again and again, that large plants with intensively prepared structure during extended Veg cycle yield far more than untrained, smaller, force-flowered inpiduals.
Nebula Haze from GrowWeedEasy.com: I've also found this to be the case.
Small marijuana plants that are forced to flower when extremely young are can be fun as an experiment, but produce pitiful yields. Investing more time in the vegetative stage to gain girth, while controlling the shape and growth of the plant, has dramatically increased yields for me.

The truth is, that with marijuana, the real 'secret sauce' to getting enormous yields is when you've perfectly prepared your plants for the flowering stage. As any grower knows, once you're deep into flowering, there isn't a whole lot you can do about huge, out-of-control plants except hold on, pray for the best, and do better next time. I DO NOT lollipop and advice strongly against it. I use defoliation to skillfully and artfully prepare plants during the vegetative stage, so that lollipopping becomes completely unnecessary. I am on a mission to refocus growing technique to never remove ANY productive growth. I believe only leaves should be removed. Ultimately, the defoliation technique is a huge tool in the grower's toolbox that allows you to dominate the Vegetative stage. Then it can be used in the Flowering stage to maximize yields.
Defoliation is the Big Secret to High-Yield, Compact Marijuana Plants

My style involves intensive defoliation along with the twist and train method (a version of supercropping) using a basic net for support. I only top once, if at all, at the 5th or 6th node(approximately) depending on the height and structure of a given clone. I also deleaf them at this time. The only plants that get more topping than that are because they had clones taken from them. I don't usually keep dedicated mothers, instead, I just clone the clones and cycle everything through. Here is a close-up of a veg clone getting it's second stripping.

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8/12/2013 11:43 PM

(Experienced Growers Only) Controversial Defoliation Increases Ma...

http://www.growweedeasy.com/marijuana-defoliation-tutorial

Before

After

To get the best results, you should start defoliation in the vegetative stage. Leaf removal in bud is beneficial after stretch but most important to yields is management and the creation of a more compact plant with more budding sites in a given size. Stripping and bending takes practice but you must do it to get practice. By starting in veg you risk no bud. Veg plants are replaceable so experiment and be ready to devote a little more time to prepare them. I'd describe my stripping as "aggressive." Once your plant is trained to deal with defoliation, it's hard to go wrong. Plus, after years of experience, I've become very familiar with how these plants grow and always know what my outcome will be. But defoliation doesn't end in the vegetative stage. I also continue to pull

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8/12/2013 11:43 PM

(Experienced Growers Only) Controversial Defoliation Increases Ma...

http://www.growweedeasy.com/marijuana-defoliation-tutorial

the fan leaves off of my flowering plants to expose the buds. As far as when and how often, I don't get too scientific about it. Usually if things look leafy, meaning that you see more leaf than budsites when viewing the crop, it may be time for another deleafing. It usually takes a week to 10 days for a plant to releaf to the point that there are 2-4 new leaves that have flattened and greened enough to deleaf again. This repeated releafing process allows that lower growth to benefit from the maturing of the immediate leaf mass. Leaf removal stimulates lower and mid bud growth by exposing those normally shaded out areas to premium light. Of course those new to the technique should start slow, but if you start too slow you won't remove enough leaf to see the best result. You basically want to prevent any 'shade' from happening. Here's an example of how I deleaf a girl who is 2 weeks into 12-12 (flowering) Before

After

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8/12/2013 11:43 PM

(Experienced Growers Only) Controversial Defoliation Increases Ma...

http://www.growweedeasy.com/marijuana-defoliation-tutorial

Notice how, you can now see light all the way through the plant. This is a good thing for light, as opposed to seeing nothing but leaves in the before pic. Wait, did you say you wanted to see what kind of buds I get at the BOTTOM of the plant?

You get extensive bottom growth on defoliated plants

This is on the morning of harvest. While some are obsessed with top growth I like well developed bottoms. Tops are a given. If bottoms are this well developed the tops are certainly getting their share of light. Some guys like tops, some like bottoms. I like my girls to be equally well developed.
Ready to Get Started?

You can start easy and try to save leaves but what happens when you see the results like all the mid growth exploding with the new exposure. It

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8/12/2013 11:43 PM

(Experienced Growers Only) Controversial Defoliation Increases Ma...

http://www.growweedeasy.com/marijuana-defoliation-tutorial

would serve logic that if you remove a little and there is good results than remove more and on and on until you get comfortable with stripping down these girls. I recommend you start deleafing as soon as your plants start looking 'bushy' at all. Start with removing the fans from all the branches and watch the results. Then remove progressively more. Don't remove any branches or sites if you want to commit to this method. The idea is shade removal, NOT budsite removal. Allow them to releaf for a week or so and remove again when they look leafy.

This girl is 32"sq. and under 30" tall. She was thoroughly plucked continuously through her 11 week flowering cycle as well as during veg. No shortage of branches or buds, all of them chunky and exposed. I ended up harvesting 12 ounces off her. Marijuana plants do not get like this on their own. Stripping in veg and throughout bud is the only way to get results like this.

Answer to the 3 Most Common Questions About Marijuana Defoliation

1.) Which Fan Leaves Can Be Plucked? All of them. That was the short answer. I remove everything that is easily pinched off with the thumbnail and forefinger. I keep a little bit of a cutting tool for a thumbnail specifically for that purpose. I don't try to get in super close to the buds once they get sticky unless it

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8/12/2013 11:43 PM

(Experienced Growers Only) Controversial Defoliation Increases Ma...

http://www.growweedeasy.com/marijuana-defoliation-tutorial

is just intolerably crowded. Any leaf that is attached by enough of a peristem to be plucked easily is fair game. Bud leaves are attached deeper in the bud cluster and are difficult to remove by hand. I do not yank or pull down on the leaf. I snip it off with the thumbnail. Don't sweat the stubs that are left, they dry out and fall off. Best not to try to cut so close to the plant, especially in mold prone climates. 2.) Can Defoliation Be Used with Any Growing Medium? Yes. Medium is not a factor. Go with what you like. Defoliation works great for marijuana grown in soil, coco coir, perlite, vermiculite, DWC, bubbleponics, and any other growing medium that marijuana grows in. 3.) I've Never Defoliated and Now I'm Several Weeks into Flowering with Tall, BUSHY Out-of-Control Plants... Can I Still Start Defoliating? If you've never defoliated before, go conservative to start, even if your plants look healthy. Do it moderately at first and a little more daily. Pluck fan leaves to prevent branches from growing taller. During the flowering stage, you'll be able to see the increase in bud production.

So there you have it, a basic introduction to defoliation for huge yields. It's about time defoliation went mainstream!

About the Author:

Keef Treez "The Defoliator" has run several threads on ICMag.com, Overgrow, and CannabisWorld which continue to be very popular and controversial even years after they were created, receiving millions of hits. He is located in a beautiful high country area where he legally provides as a caregiver. View his thread about defoliation on ICMag.com: http://www.icmag.com /ic/showthread.php?t=174163

FOR SERIOUS GROWERS ONLY You've told me you're looking for a complete guide to growing marijuana that covers everything, from beginner to ultra-advanced. And defoliation is just one technique to getting seriously killer harvests. If you

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want to learn ALL the secrets... Learn from the best! Invest in the most advanced Grow Bible Available: Growing Elite Marijuana + 6 bonuses (including one-of-a-kind comprehensive strain guide) Total care explained step-by-step... indoors... outdoors... Monster cropping... advanced growth control... bud production secrets... and much, much more... Over 700 pages of pictures, tutorials and advanced insider tips! Get Instant Access to It All Right Here: GrowWeedEasy.com/growing-elitemarijuana

I thought I already knew it all, but after I went through this grow bible, I discovered that there were still lots of easy ways I could increase my yields and grow even more potent buds! I find myself going back to it again and again for new ideas.
-Nebula

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Here at GrowWeedEasy.com, we are dedicated to getting this information into as many hands as possible. You are welcome to republish this entire article as long as you do not edit, remove or or otherwise change any part of it without permission, including this note at the bottom. Learn the Basics to Growing Marijuana here: http://growweedeasy.com /the-basics-of-growing-marijuana View this marijuana defoliation tutorial in its entirety: http://growweedeasy.com/marijuana-defoliation-tutorial Please don't hesitate to Contact GrowWeedEasy.com with any questions. Happy growing!

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