.

SHAVING MADE EASY What the Man Who to Shaves Ought Know ILLUSTRATED PUBLISHED BY 20th CENTURY CORRESPONDENCE SCHOOL NEW YORK THE .

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IN HOPE THAT ITS CONTENTS WII. .L BE OF ASSISTANCE IN REMEDY- ING THEIR TROUBLES.THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED TO THOSE DIFFICULTIES IN MEN WHO HAVE SHAVING.

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seem to be man who if shaves himis In the in the first place the shaving his done privacy own room. thus avoidinsf the . The advantages. after a few unsuccessful attempts. There are few men not experience more or less dif- ficulty in shaving themselves. and many who. He has his towels. brush and which can be kept scrupulously clean and sanitarv. give it up in dispair and go to the barber shop. indeed. own razor. wholly with the self. soap. cup. THE who do object of this little book is to furnish clear and full information about the art of shaving.PREFACE. We believe most of these would much prefer to shave themselves if only they could do as well as a barber.

PREFACE.to pay. of men accustomed to shave themselves.'' After noth- cost of the outfit there ing. There are few things in life that are perform when one thoroughly knows how to do them. supply such information . The if art of shaving can be easily acquired will. as far as we are aware. with practice. as for the instruction We believe that any man some who little will carefully read and follow the instructions here given.. is the only one treating the subject at all completely. one only has the and the necessary practical inforThis book. constant danger of infection. either for services or "tips. endeavors to mation." Thus the in point of time. man who shaves himself a decided gainer. Shaving really difficult to is no exception. There is is no long wait for the the first call of "next. which. as well for the improvement of beginners. will. money and is health. soon be able to shave him- self easily 1 and even better than the barit er cnn do fin* him. .

II. The Right Shaving Way to Shave XV. XIII. Cup Soap Lather 45 48 5o 53 Instructions to Beginners 56 61 XIV.CONTENTS. XI. VIII. I. Brush X. Care of the Face After Irritation of the Skin — 74 Its Cause and Prevention 78 . VII. XII. XVI. VI. The Shaving The Razor Outfit 9 n 19 21 IIL IV. Care of the Razor V. The Safety Razor The Hone How to Use the Hone The Strop 23 29 37 41 How The The The The to Strop the Razor IX.

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.. or soap as from the lack of knowl- edge how to use them. THE SHAVING OUTFIT. sulted Probably as many failures have refrom the use of poor razors.Shaving What the Made Easy Man Who Shaves Ought to Know I. strops. First-class tools are necessary at the very outset. they will in- variably produce poor results. In order that the best possible results may be attained. No matter how skillfully one may handle inferior tools.

hazel. magnesia or astringent lotions. while not absolutely requisite. styptic wdiich. and a bottle of either bay nnn. . a cake of shaving soap. talcum pencils. good tools and skill go hand in hand.10 SPIAVING MADE in EASY. using flicni sliould The shaving one or outfit should consist of a first-class two good razors. antiseptic or etc. such as a be added a number of good hone. witch lotion. strop. comfort and luxury of the shave. will nevertheless add much to the convenience. to these mav others. a mirror. a cup. powder.. good face some other These constitute what or may and be considered the necessary articles. a brush.

hap- a poor razor is dear at . THE RAZOR.11. it Never purchase pens to be cheap a razor because . The most important ing outfit is article of the shav- of course the razor. selection your success or failure will self-shaving largely depend. and AN IDEAL Upon in its RAZOR.

A for years. and be razor.12 SII. Its power extends no further than and injurious. principal point to be considered in selecting a the quality of the is By "quality^' meant its its temper or degree of solidity. and substi- good one. will last and will be a source of contin- ual pleasure when used. good razor if rightly used. any l)ut You want the best. whereas a poor razor will do inferior work. By what means though. irritate the skin and make the face sore. even after a series a firm and fine edge.WINC price. This undoubtedly the first point to which the purchaser should give attention. not the cheapest. MADK EASY. If you have such a it the sooner you throw tute a aside better. and of years. the razor is The steel. to the discovery of defects the most striking The irregularities in a . can he judge of the temper of a razor without using it ? The unassisted eye is not sufficient. is conseq^ient capability of receiving. a continual source of trouble and annoyance.

There are two ways of judging of the temper sibly of a razor. that until they the may razor remain undistinguished is used. are usually so minute. it cannot possibly take good cutting edge. Such defects are a quickly detected by the use of a micro- . It will its edge by means of a mi- be readily admitted that the real is excellence of a razor tion to the firmness larity of its edge. I3 razor's edge. in direct propor- and unbroken regu- When a razor is too consequence of having been either to much heated in the process of hardening. which arise from improper tempering and lack of skill in working.SHAVING MADE EASY. They will nevertheless very sen- add to the friction the razor produces on the skin and particularly if it happens to be thin and tender. or not sufficiently cooled in in that of tempering. one of these fallible is practically in- — —the viz : examination of the blade and croscope. brittle. no matter how much skill may be employed in honing and stropping it.

Nearly all now made "hollow-ground'^ or **con- cave" — a great improvement over the old stvle of thick blade. It consists of catching the point of the blade under the nail. The is edo-e of the hollow-ground razor thinner and therefore cuts better. scope in the hands of an experienced and attentive observer. Blade. The Concave The est. The other method of testing the temper. Almost anv desired make of razor mav . but clear is does not ring full and is an indication that the blade tempered unevenly. thinnest edge is always the sharp- A it blade ought therefore to be as thin as the strength of the metal comrazors posing are will permit. and to is much easier keep sharp.14 SHAVING MADE EASY. ring. If the blade gives a good it clear you may conclude that if it it is well tempered. will nevertheless be of assistance even to the most inexperienced. thumb off and then letting the nail slip quickly. while not infalUble.

unless the the blade it held very is quite likely to flat upon the face. in the size A comparatively narrow as the 4-8 is known the . bend and spring. ground razor. of course the thinnest. one. three-quarters.SHAVING MADE EASY. the blade is ground ex- tremely thin. As we believe the beginner selects too wide a blade. that the full concave blade not so good for shaving most beards as the three-quarIn a very deeply hollow ters concave. or The full concave blade is full concave. back to a line some disWhen such an tance from the edge. the blade is another point that should receive attention. is is Our im- pression that this a mistake. mO'St purchasers of a razor ciuite naturally conclude that the full concave blade is is the best. In view of the fact that the thinner the edge the sharper the instrument. and a cut will be the of result. Width The width a rule of the Blade. 1^ be had in either half. edge in — almost is as thin stiff as paper —comes contact with a beard.

.l6 SHAVING MADE EASY. Yd V5 SHOWING DIFFERENT WIDTHS OF BLADES.

THE ROUND POINTED BLADE. and in general is managed more easily. B B. yet a sharp point has probably occasioned more cuts than almost any . it as it does not spring on the face so readily as the wide blade. While this is seemingly a small matter. tration.S H A \' 1 NG M . THE SHARP POINTED BLADE. yet face follows the contours of the more closely. The point of the razor ought to l^e sliehtlv rounded as shown in the illus- A. Point of the Blade. \ 1) !•: \i ASN 17 bes*^ for most purposes.

If you have a razor with a it sharp point. you can round off. pose.Ih SHAVlXr. that would quickly . Other cause. scratch the hone and spoil Use water freely otherwise the blade will be- come heated and spoil its temper. on the edge of the hone. MADI-: KASV. for to if You should not use the top surface of the hone for this pur- you do you are quite Hkely it.

III. CARE OF THE RAZOR. Even this will not remove all the moisture. so the blade should be drawn across the strop a few times. removed by the cloth Then you may replace . or else left exposed to the air for a few moments until the little particles of moisture not have evaporated. Many a fine razor has been spoiled by care- The and neglect on the part of the life of a razor will depend on the care given it. Take good care lessness user. of your razor. Never put it has first been wiped thoroughly dry. using a piece of chamois entirely it away until skin for this purpose.

WlNG MADE EASY.20 Sll. by causing the metal to soften and crumble at that point. . the razor in its case with the expectation of finding it in good condition when you next use it. in the same when stropping it. In wiping the use a is ofif the blade paper. will soon end the usefulunless the ness of the razor. A tiny rust spot on this delicate line. In such always the lather liability of not getting a good edge. and by wdiy the razor has lost its keenness. turn the edge. Rusting must be prevented. edge is ground back past the a case there is rust spot. which seems to rust more quickly than any other part of the blade. direc- away from the edge. and then wonder Tissue paper point the best. Draw tion as the blade over the paper obliquely. especially upon the edge. never this glazed or coarse ^lany overlook drawing the blade straight across a glazed or hard finished paper.

the manufacturers invented of each claiming that theirs are superior razors have been and that they have produced a razor that is destined to all others at last to rev- olutionize shaving. One razors thing in is may be said if of safety general — that ^ a man uses one he this is less likely to cut himself. but all that can reasonably be said in their favor. Of safety recent years a great number of and placed on the market. if it were im-.IV. Of course. ordinary then the razor without cutting one's . ^ possible to shave with the self. THE SAFETY RAZOR.

however. and owing to the difficulty of stropping them. — if he does not already the know a — how will to handle almost razor properly. of them are now in been sold use. has a good keen smooth-cutting razor. Probably hundred thousand safety razors have in the United States within the past few years and it is extremely doubtful if ten per cent. run will no danger. it is almost. On the other hand. Such man seldom cut himself. . and therefore free from rust. that anyone who and will learn safety razor The truth is. would become a necessity. most of the safety razors are difficult to keep clean and dry. lathers the face thoroughly.22 SHAVING MADE EASY. a make the correct stroke with them. if not quite impossible to keep It is also difficult to them sharp.

Such actually not the microscope reveals the fact unin reality instead of being straight and is broken. Unmagnified.V. whtn viewed under a powerful microscope. the edge composed of a great number much resembling the of minute points follow teeth of a saw. THE HONE. for the that. points or each other throughout the entire length of the and bv their extreme minuteness . case. presents an appearance very different from that seen by the unaided eye. teeth These blade. is the edge appears to be a continuous un- broken Hue. The edge of a razor.

4 SHAVING MADE EASY..]•: ()1~ THE RAZCJR AS IT APPEARS UNDER THE MICROSCOPE. known . but only by [he prnct'ss accomplished as honing. This cannot be is done by stropping. Now if the razor becomes dull. therefore. essary possible is —by — making the edge as thin as little to restore these teeth to their original condition. and unbroken regularity give the edge its exceeding keenness. these teeth will be less even and regular and their edges be will rounded and worn away. it To nec- sharpen the razor. 1:1 )(.

we would reader to beware of these "wonder-work- Such preparations may. It 2^ that has been asserted by some.or grinding in order. just as ing-strops. who wish strops as induce the pubhc to pur- chase their goods. it will at once become apparent that no strop can possibly take the place of a hone. certain to from makers of razor-strops. applied to a strop will. the strop alone without further is sufficient to keep This opinion has eminated honing.SHAVING MADE EASY. im- prove but that they will do more than deny. Thev with represent their having been treated "metahzed. improve the strop. As a rule. and sometimes do. when once and it the razor has been ground set." or otherwise some kind of advise the preparation that makes honing unnecessary." lather when it. of the hone The object of honing a razor is to make its edge as tliiii and flat as a proper attention to the degree of firmness re- . this. w^e When the special offices and of the strop are fully understood.

Before explaining the process of honing. This from the very nature of the strop. stropping a razor. There are two distinct classes of hones general use. The flattest and thinnest edge is always the sharpest. On the con- trary. so that should the reader wish to purchase one. the sooner will such an edge be produced. it losses its keenness. and the only way to impart such an edge to a razor is by means of the hone. will permit. he may do it intelligently. plished by the hard fine grit of the hone and wearing away the The ing strop cannot do this. it may be well to say a word about kinds of the different hones.. and this in proportion as the edge assumes rounded form. in — one known as the rock . which always ''gives*' or sags more or less during the process of stropping. and results the more the strop is permitted to sag. instead of givit a thin and fiat edge. always has a tendency to produce a rounded one. This is accomsteel.26 quired cutting SHAVING MADE EASY.

but few that are really suitable for sharpening razors. hone. the supply is limited and the price high. is one of this variety.SHAVING MADE EASY. cuts the hardest steel and the fine grit imparts a very smooth edge to a razor. est which is one of the sharp- It easily known. its 2J being cut from and the other manuA great number of hones are factured. The "Arkansas. Most of the razor hones used in the ." found near the famous cutting minerals Hot Springs. The natu- stones are usually composed princi- pally of silica. be of the very ral finest quality. to the difficulty of obtaining this and the great waste in cutting it. but owing stone. produced in different parts of the United States. A razor hone must THE HONE. on account of the natural rock.

\\'e difficult venture to assert. the oil hones from Belgium.there difficulty. that honing the is a razor it. in that they are free from scams and uneven spots and perfectly uniform in texture. is how- ever. Very few seem to think that they can hone there to own razors. very reasonable orite The last named are in price and quite a favare a among barbers. and the Swaty hones from Austria. They manuto the factured hone. it How is this impression became current. at least as easy as stropping In this case as in arises many others.2% SHAVING MADE EASY. . and in some respects the manufactured hones are superior natural stones. The most noted are the German water hones. ^lost is men have the idea that honing and should be undertaken only by expert cutlers or bara dit^cult operation bers. difficulty a from su'^posinq. say. United States are imported.

How to Use the H one .

HOW TO USE THE HONE. second to keep the particles of steel that are ground off the blade from enter- — ing the pores of the stone. and third — to known make . but are usually covered with either water. the The hone being only means of sharpening a dull razor. to keep their razors in perfect Hones or oil : are seldom used dry. which would soon fill up and result in what is as a glazed surface. its use becomes at once of the utmost importance to those who wish order. lather first — to prevent heating the blade which would quickly spoil its temper.

should be placed perfectly or other solid foundation. with its fine surface up. flat on a table (The rough the surface is intended merely as a support x\fter covering and not for use.1 SIIAVINC.) . them from remaining directly on the hone to impede its full and equal effect. Most barbers use lather advise the beginner to and we should do so. This will float the little particles of thus ground off the razor. With most hones you steel preventing may use either water. Before commencing tlie operation. but do not change from one to the other. lather or oil . It requies a longer time oil is to produce a keen edge when but the edge is somewhat used smoother. MADE EASY. whichever you begin with. 3 tlie surface of the hone as smooth as pos- sible. The hone. Directions for Honing. then put on a few drops of oil or else cover it with water or lather. wipe the hone clean. use that exclusively.

HOW TO HONE THE R.32 SHAVING MADE EASY.\ZOR. .

edge.SHAVING MADE EASY. so as to have firm hold of both the blade and the handle. an indica- . until the position it comes B. turn the edge up. C. as let it fall shown Fig. grasp the razor back of the. Now. A. and with a moderate degree of pressure. so that the razor rests on the back of the blade. finishing the stroke as in D. without lifting the blade from the stone. is Continue honino^ until the sufiiciently keen and free from and inequalities. Draw the blade from heel to point. 33 hone with lather. is If it sticks to the nail sliehtlv. blade nicks across the moistened thumb it nail. A. heel. place the razor flat upon it as shown in Fig. into shown in Fig. Slide it forward on its back from point to heel and let it fall into the position indicated Push the blade from heel to in Fig. With the thumb and fore finger. very lightly. slide from point to heel and into the first position. Turn the blade on in its back. point against the Fig. This may be known by drawing the edge. forward against the edge.

draw the edge with a steady hand across the moistened thumb dicated above. If the honing be carried too far. is as well as the edge. nail in the manner inThe blade should then be drawn once or twice across all the hone parts of as before. The following specially observed. directions should be First — The back blade should be held per- fectly Hat on the hone. the operation in general performed. so that the back. To do this. and the won- drous dit^culty of honing the razor vanishes.34 tion little SHAVING MADE EASY. is With this done. If the raised from the stone so . that the teeth honing has developed the which constitute the perfect is razor edge. touches the stone. Special Directions. in order to unite the edge and cause a perfect equality of keenness from one end of the blade to the other. and this must be removed. and that the razor now a ready for stropping. "wire edge" will be produced.

SHAVING MADE EASY. required The time hone a razor . principle. little With to a good hone. while the razor teeth incline away from the point and This is correct in toward the heel. the heel should be about one and a half inches in advance of the point. and care should be taken to maintain the same angle when the stroke is reversed and This throughout the entire operation. for the saw in use is pushed away from the handle toward the point. while the razor is usually drawn away from the point toward the heel. pressure will be required. the bevel will be short and the edge blunt. sets the teeth at the is. 35 that only the edge touches. but there is this difference: saw teeth incline away from the handle and toward the point. Second In drawing the blade across the hone diagonally against the edge. that toward the heel. — proper angle. We have likened the edge of a razor to that slightly inclined of a saw. Third verv — Press with equal force on all parts of the edge.

depends nirch on the condition of the razor and the hardness of the steel composingit. the operation will require more time and tention.WIXG MADF. however. When. be better to send the razor to a cutler to be ground.36 SII. If the razor is well cared for and proit perly stropped. When the edge is in the usual nicks free from and has merely hecome thick in consequence of the injudicious use of condition — that is when it is the razor strop — it will need very strokes in little honing : eight or ten each direction will be quite sufficient. EASY. will When will not it required you become aware of from the it. the edge has nicks : though so atit small as to be scarcely perceptible. in is it. fact that stropping- sharpen . will Should the nicks be large. will not require very frequent honing. probably six to not oftener than once from eight weeks.

the process of sharpening is the razor still incomplete. . But when for is done.VII. taking ofif the rough little teeth which have been setting them all in perfect and developed. face. the left edge. rorgh and stropping. and that of stropping not to The object make the blade thinner. The object of honing the razor. on the Anis is other process necessary. but to surface of the smooth the edge. THE STROP. as has been explained. when taken from unfit to put is the hone. is to abraid and wear away the edge of the blade so that it becomes this is as thin as possible.

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SHAVING MADE EASY.
This gives the razor
its

alignment.

ex-

ceeding keenness.

Yen
It
little

should

have a
is

first-class

strop.

matters
if

how good yonr

razor

may
it

be

your strop
if

a poor one, for

is

absolutely impossible to keep a razor

in

good condition
or
ro-.-gh

quality
a

razor
lie

fault

the strop is of poor and haggled. Many has been blamed when the entirely with the strop and
of using
it.

the

manner
surface

So
as

called sharp-

ening preparations, sometimes applied to
the

of

strops,

a

substiti'te
]\Iost

for the hone, should be avoided.

of
is

likelv to

them contain acid or emery, which gradually spoil th.e temper of
are

the razor.

There

many

kinds

of

strops

manufact^-red and placed on the market,

common

some good and some bad. The most swing strop, made of is the
one side and

leather or hor.^e hide on

canvas or hose on the other.

Some

of

the cheaper grades have a very coarse

amz'as, and unless vou wish to ruin vonr

SHAVING MADE EASY.
razor,
strop.

39

you should never put it on such a In our opinion a good leather or horse hide strop is the best, and meets
if

every requirement; but
strop
is

a combination
side

used,

the

hnen or hose
quahty.

shorld be of the

finest

The
Its

strop

should should

be

not

less

than

twenty inches long and two inches wide.
surface

be

very

soft

and

tell smooth not glazed and you whether it is so, by rubbing the hand over

can

it.

Do

not fold the strop

when

putting

away, for if you do you are likely to crack or roughen the surface, and this
it

will
it

injure the edge of the blade

when

is

drawn across

it.

Care of the Strop.
After the
strop

has
it

been

put

to

a

great deal of use,

will

sometimes be

found that
razor
slip

it

will not "take hold"
it

on the

— that
it

is

will allow the blade to
little

over

with

or no resistance

and thus
cutting

fail to

impart a keen, smooth-

edge.

The reason

is

that

the

40
Strop has

SHAVING MADE EASY.
become dry and porous. Do not
;

attempt to remedy the matter by applying oil or razor paste these will only

make matters worse.
on a hook, and with the
as
tightly

Hang
left

the

strop

as

thick lather to

hand stretch possible. Apply a good the surface and rub it in
of
the

with the palm

hand.

Barbers

sometimes
rrb
tlie

nail the strop to a

board and
bottle;

lather in with a

smooth

but the hand will do quite as well, and
indeed,

we

think
is
;

it

preferable.

What

the

strop requires

with the lather

have the pores filled so put on and work in
to

coat after coat, until the leather will take

up no more. Thai leave the strop
This
simple

to dry.

treatment

will

completely

change the action of the strop, and the next time you use it, you will be surprised and delighted to note its improved effect on the razor. It will have that "cling" and ^'resistance'' which barbers so much desire in a strop, and which, indeed,
is

quite essential to

its

efficiency.

feet the hook.VIII. the . The strop to should be loosely pulled tight — otherwise honing. so that perfect control is had with the right hand. HOW TO STROP THE RAZOR. so that the handle is with the blade. —not allowed hang the edge of the razor will become rounded and require frequent Open in line the razor. Grasp it firmly first two fingers and thumb holding the razor just back of the heel. the ing left Put the ring of the strop over and hold the handle firmly in hand as shown in the accompany- illustration. window from the five Place a hook in a door or a casing about four or floor.

both the MADl-: KASV.42 of SH. TTDW TO STROP TTTF. With it the razor held in this manner is an easy matter to turn the razor back and forth from one side to the other. . blade and handle. RAZOR.WIXC.

ing. as shown with the edge away from you. instead of on the edge. Then. rotate the razor on as in its back till the nnstroped side of the blade comes in contact with the strop. in stropping. E. from By observing its this.SHAVING MADE EASV 43 Lay the blade flat on the furth?r end in Fig. at the same strop. push the razor away from it yon. tJic the back. reaches the further end of Again rotate. the In hon- edge is in advance . you strop. and perfectly flat on the is You will observe that the stroke exactly opposite to that used in honing. and always turning the blade on back. During the operation hack of the razor should never he taken the strop. F. until the strop. will avoid cutting the Beginners should not attempt to make . Draw the blade toward yon. shown in Fig. with the heel advance. always keeping the heel of the razor in advance of the point. Always hold the blade angle. and continue is the stropping until the razor sharp. of the strop. When at the end of the strop.

and until even. no amount of stropping will put a keen edge on shave. Let the stroke be slow speed gradually a quick stroke.44 SHAVING MADE EASY. is If the razor in good condition and suffi- not in need of honing. developing a complete mastery of the is move- ment acquired. it. It will us- ually be necessary to strop the razor each time you and with stiff beards more than once may be requires! . the razor should re- quire honing. each direction will be however. in If. fifteen or twenty strokes citnt.

It shold be remembered that is the vital part of a brush in the sdfing. THE BRUSH. The cheap in ones are usually the most expensive the end. factory. Purchase a good brush. and particular attention should therefore . and nearly always prove unsatls- SECTIONAL VIEW OF THE BRUSH SHOWING INTERNAL CONSTRUCTION.IX.

We whereupon tlie bristles fall recommend a brush made of badger hair and set in hard rubber. which soon cracks and becomes unadhesive out. A brush so con- bristles or vulcanized THE BRUSH. and hard rubber ferule. rosin or cement. not leave the lather to dry in the but after shaving rinse it out thoroughly and dry the brush with a . structed. and with proper care will last for years. Do brush. it. bone or ivory handle. be paid to that part of are Cheap brushes commonly .4fi SHAVING MADE EASY. with wood. will not shed the bristles or crack open. set with gUie.

. Once a week they should be washed with hot water. before putting away.SHAVING MADE EASY. briTsh 4/ The cup and should be kept clean and away from dust. towel.

X. If possible. and in fact. The shaving cup should be of earthen ware or china. but this arrangement is unnecessary. and large enough to accommodate the ordinary round cake of shaving soap. THE CUP. Some cups are made with two compartments. fill the cake of soap should entirely the bottom of the crp so that left no space the sides . not so convenient as the ordinary cup. for it leaves too little room for making the lather. is between the soap and otherwise water will get in and keep the bottom of the cake con- . one for soap and the other for water.

This will be found the most convenient If at way of using the soap. take the until it warm it becomes in the somewhat soft.SHAVING MADE EASY. tinually soaked. Great care should be taken to keep the cup scrupulously clean. then put back cup. If it 49 is found that the it cake does not quite soap out and fill the space. it should be pressed back as at first. to While we think the better way put make the lather in the cup and on with the brush. it quite fills the intervening any time the soap should cleave away from the sides of the cup. in order to remove any lather that may have been left unused. Some this is is it use the sticks of shaving soap face. and with the hand press down the sides all around. . Keep the cup away from dust. and make the lather on the permissable. rinsing it out thoroughly each time after shaving. thus flattening out the cake until space.

under any circum- The is latter is not intended for shaving. and likely to pro- duce irritations of the sore. shaving soap. but unless the beard be anything but a pleasure. THE Next In its SOAP. a toilet soap. The razor may be ever so properly good. shaving will Use only a regular recognized standard make of stances. most important to the razor. the article of the shaving outfit is tlie soap.XI. skin and leave the face rough and A wrong idea prevails regarding the . not. is lathered with a good soap. proper use Hes the real secret of easy shaving.

as is well surface to the razor. but to produce exactly the opposite — namely. A composed of a hard fibrous substance. or will either slip else partly . and difficult if the becomes even more be beard made still softer by the application of hot water. Now in known. growing from a bulb or root. tion it which condi- is This is supposed to be moist easily cut. renders the hair soft and pliable. ficult to it is very difit cut the hair with a razor. which secretes an oily matter. The soap is used. effect not to soften the beard. a mistake. Many is do this. so that they will present a and resisting hair. and it is no soft wonder they find shaving difficult. and the razor over them entirely. When this done. tc make the hair stiff and firm brittle. use of the soap.1 SHAVING MADE EASY. and by permeating all parts. is a tube this natural oily condition. This oil works its way up through the hair. the hairs become cut and limp. is 5 The popular impression is that the soap used for the purpose in of softening the beard.

the lather. potash or soda. into them. oil of the and removing it. lengthwise. of course. and making the process of shaving most painful. the face should be well dried with a towel.52 SHAVING MADE EASY. and renders the hairs hard stiff and brittle in which condition they may be easily and readily cut. which might dull the razor but before applying neutralizing — . applied to the beard in unites with the it which the form of hair. the face should. be washed previous to shaving in order to remove any dirt or grit from the beard. For the sake of cleanliness. . lather. Now when soap has the opposite effect.. bend them back and sHce them all the while pulling and straining them at the roots. It con- tains either alkali.

cient water to make the lather will adhere to the cup. good thick lather appears. soap and brush. Usually al- lowing it to stand for a few seconds. you . deal depends right. Now a with the brush. see that the soap placed in the cup according to previous Fill the directions. The is more the brush rubbed over the soap the thicker the lather becomes. cup with water. THE LATHER. A great just will If it upon having the lather is thin and watery. suffi- then pour the water out.XII. To make is the lather. using com- bined until a stirring and churning motion. mix thoroughly.

Next to having the razor is it in perfect condition. Put the lather on with the brush. have poor success The more the creamy of the it is. but it found thin and without lasting qualities. the lather other. so that by the time one side of the face has been shaved. in shaving. this the most imis portant thing to do. Some of the poorer qualities of soap will be produce lather very quickly. is all A good soap will gone from the produce a thick creamy lather that will last throughout the entire process of shaving.54 SHAVING MADE EASY. for to impossible is shave easily unless the face well lathered and the lather thoroughly work- ed into the beard. in order to spread . the better will be the effect in alkali stiffening beard. Go over the face once more with the brush. Then with the fingers rub it thoroughly into the beard until the lather has had sufficient time to stiffen the hairs. sometimes half filling the cup. Applying the Lather. covering every part of the face that you intend to shave.

wet the brush slightly and apply If you prepare your face fresh lather. 55 the lather evenly. before the lather has time to dry. in accordance with these instructions. . Should it dry while you are shaving.SHAVING MADE EASY. and then begin shaving at once. a keen razor will slip over the face so easily that shaving will become a real pleasure.

you are a young man.XIII. it Do not entertain the idea is a difficult matter for one to shave himself — for there is nothing difficult about it when you know how. You may have previously tried and failed. but if you will now follow the instructions contained in this book. just beginit is important that you right. INSTRUCTIONS TO BEGINNERS. If ning to shave. It is quite as commence learn easy to the right way as the wrong that way. there is no reason why shaving may out further not be performed with- difficulties. .

near the middle. In this position. ar. It will be observed that the handle is The first thrown well back past the heel.SHAVING MADE EASY. with the finger over the crook at the end. three fingers rest on the back little of the blade.. with the handle acting as . The accompanying- illustrji' .n shows the position in which the razor should be held. 57 THE RIGHT WAY TO HOLD THE RAZOR.d the thumb on the side of the blade.

as for the neck. is position here indicated. with different person^s. . Some find a long slow stroke it while others make short and quick. from long continued use has formed the habit of holding the razor in a different way. Each man must suit the stroke to his own convenience. there ation in the considerable vari- manner of using the razor. This position can be maintained throughout most of the process of shaving. under the jaw. although it may be while instance mcessary to dhange it slightly shaving certain parts. endeavor to have the razor at all times under perfect control. largely to individual is temperament. best.58 SHAVING MADE EASY. the razor will be under perfect control. and there will be little dan- ger of cutting oneself. any change will prove difficult and may not be advisa able. But whatever the position. but if man. a balance. The Owing no doubt Stroke. the one The we to- should certainly advise the beginner adopt.

In gen- eral shave in the direction of the growth of the beard. gradually increasing trol as of the razor. Hold the razor quite flat pull upon the directly it face.SHAVING MADE EASY. but hold to the direction of obliquely movement. 59 everybody. so that when you look into it the light will fall directly up- . you gain better conSpeed will develop naturally with practice. But certain principles are applicable to In the first place you should it begin with a slow even stroke. The mirror should hang between two windows if possible. and if the beard is heavy and wiry the edge of hairs the blade hairs is quite liable to catch in the and be deflected inward and cut the face. Position of the Mirror. Do not the razor down against the beard. like this : ^^^y^^^y Shaving against the growth pulls the and thus irritates the skin.

the shirt.6o SHAVING MADE EASY. To prevent soiling. . it pinning at the side. on both sides of your face. place a towel around the neck an easy. Remove in the collar. You will then be able to get a good reflection of either side. comfortable manner.

The R^ght Way to Shave .XIV.

.TO SHAVE THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE FACE.

thus making a smooth shaving surface. hand rest still further over the fingers in the middle of the cheek and again pull the skin up- ward. Now until continue to shave down- ward face the entire right side of the is shaved clean. Reach over the head with the left hand and with the fingers draw the skin upward. Shave downward until about half of the right cheek then slide the until left is shaved.TO SHAVE THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE FACE. as far as the mid- dle of the chin and well under the jaw. . The ilhistration shows the proper position.

TO SHAVE THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE FACE UNDER THE JAW. .

SHAVING MADE EASY. You should never shave against the growth when going over if it the face the first time. can be avoided. skin tight if under the jaw. . Hold side the head the over toward the slightly left with chin elevated. the beard grows in if not reverse the stroke. Keep the skin as for a better tightly drawn as possible. thus presented to theless liability of cut- and there is ting yourself. is shaving surface razor. draw Shave that downward direction . 65 TO SHAVE THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE FACE UNDER THE JAW. With the the fingers of the left hand.

TO SHAVE THE LEB^T SIDE OF THE FACE. .

In shaving the lower part of the cheek and chin. follow downward with the left hand.SHAVING MADE EASY. right With the razor in hand. 67 TO SHAVE THE LEFT SIDE OF THE FACE. toe pointing upward. . keeping the skin tightly drawn. Place the fingers of the left hand in front of and just above the ear and press upward the so as to draw the skin smooth on the upper left cheek. and shave downward. reach across the face as shown above.

TO SHAVE THE LEFT SIDE OF THE FACE UNDER THE JAW. .

raise the chin. to tighten skin. and unless treated gently will soon become irritated and sore. For many. 69 TO SHAVE THE LEFT SIDE OF THE FACE UNDER THE JAW. this is the most difficult is part of the face to shave as the skin very tender. Owing to the strong muscle in lip.SHAVING MADE EASY. as head toand draw the skin as with the as left possible hand. reverse the stroke. the the left you will hardly need to use the "hand for this purpose. . Shave downward "happens. To shave the upper lip. draw the down as much as possible. in unless. of lip course. the beard direction. incline the ward tight the right. sometimes grows in the opposite which case you will. To shave easily.

.TO SHAVE UNDER THE CHIN.

. should always endeavor to keep the skin drawn as smooth as possible. the head backward and elevate Hold the razor in the right hand. and with the fingers of the left You hand draw the skin downward.1 SHAVING MADE EASY. 7 TO SHAVE UNDER THE CHIN. Throw the chin. for by so doing vou will greatly lessen the shave liability of cutting yourself and will be able to much more easilv.

TO SHAVE UPWARD AGAINST THE GROWTH OF THE BEARD. .

shave lightly over the face the second time. If you desire a really clean shave. Lather the face as before. instead of downward. and cause the hairs to grow inward.SHAVING MADE EASY. you must go over the face the second time. they shave upward against the growth of the beard. in the same direction as at first. Strop the razor a few times before beginning. This gives an if exceedingly close shave and is the beard and heavy and the skin thin and it may make the face sore. under the Perhaps the best way will be to skin. 73 SHAVING OVER THE SECOND TIME. though it is unnecessary to rub the lather in with the fingers. In shaving over the face the second some reverse the stroke. . stiff tender. Each man should decide this point ac- cording to his own experience. ing the first time over. That is. as durtime. Simply put it on with the brush.

. they have nothing further to do. bay rum or some other good face lotion. dervalue the importance of a treatment of the face. ]\Iost men who shave themselves seem to think that when they have removed They unproper the beard.x\ CARE OF THE FACE AFTER SHAVING. is This probably about all that the average man will usuallv find time to do. evenly applied. then to apply either witch hazel. to remove the lather by a thorough washing. A quick and easy way is of caring for the face after shaving. and to follow this with a small quantity of talcum powder. This is a great mistake.

75 In order. however. as hot as can be borne. little more elabo- occasionally the be We recommend following: it Wash the face thoroughly to free from heat the lather. With many per- sons the flow of blood to the face and scalp very sluggish. a rate treatment should given. because of enfeebled or slow heart action and in conis . sequence. and set up a healthful action of the skin. which gives the skin renewed vigor and health. thus producing a tonic eflfect. open the pores. to keep the skin in a healthful condition. and then apply a steaming hot towel. The and moisture draw the blood to the face. There is no other treatment so beneficial to the skin. . Massage stimuto lates the circulation. and finally give the face a thorough massage. just capillaries from the inner centers filling the many minute underneath the skin. Next apply witch hazel. and brings the blood the surface. the many small arteries and ca- pillaries become clogged.SHAVING MADE EASY.

Fourth Holding the razor improphollow .y6 SHAVING MADE EASY. shave with a —Attemptingsharp pointed razor. yourself. If this does not stop the . — erly. \\^HAT TO DO FOR A CUT. the bleeding. The to principal causes are six in number: dull razor. it will be well to know how to treat the wound. Second — losing Third — Shaving. Covering the fingers with a towel. simply press the cut together. it is usually due to certain causes that easily are avoidable. If a man cuts himself while shaving. Fifth Shaving upward growth of the beard. you will avoid these mistakes and ex- ercise proper care. you will seldom cut But when you do.may sometimes be checked by using pressure. — against the Sixth If — Shaving in too great a hurry.with a razor that First a is too ground so that the edge springs and bends on the face. If it be slight.

flow.SHAVING MADE EASY. use an astringent. alum may be used. cils. 77 The styptis pen- made especially for this purpose. . for such accidents sometimes happen to the best barbers. In any event do not be discouraged. and may be obtained at any store ^^mx y-<^^ W . are the best.ia^' s^x. where barbers' supplies are kept. In case you should not have the pencils.PENC^ ' -v ^ wigMBijSg.

which we hope greatly benefit. trouble. the hairs will yield readily to the blade and no irritation will be produced. we wish to offer will some suggestions. it passes wise. IRRITATION OF THE SKIN— ITS CAUSE AND PREVENTION. if not entirely prevent the The most common cause is of irritation If the razor undoubtedly a dull razor. slices other length- and pulls and strains at the roots . Sonic shaving. over some. is instead of cutting the hairs easily. But if the blade is dull. men almost always experience burning and irritation of the skin after To such.XVI. keen and sharp.

If the edge of the collar is worn and rough. Another cause that may be mentioned. it is sure to make is it sore. use only the best. to see that the razor always keen and sharp. order to get a is clean shave. Too close shaving a frequent cause. of all.SHAVING MADE EASY. Thus the tender parts of the skin are kept in a state of The remedy is is of course. and comes in contact with the tender is skin. . face lotions. Some of the cheap toilet waters are and contain ingredients which undoubtedly produce a bad effect on the skin. we should advise the use of pure distilled witch hazel. In using bay rum or other adulterated. and those who are troubled in this way will do well to shave over the face but once. chafing of the neck by the collar. continual irritation. and the result tion that perhaps continues until an irritayou are ready to shave again. If much trouble is experienced. 79 This necessitates scraping the face in over and over again.

the lather has been worked into the pores of the skin. at which may be obtained This is any drug store. which render tically them pracshaving. Sometimes the trouble is due to an excess of alkali or potash in the soap. The best shaving soaps are especially prepared and have antiseptic and demulcent properties. soothing to the face and allays the burning. or impurity of the blood. of course. and only by means of a thorough washing can it all be removed. are especially liable. for during the process. non-irritating. even these may prevent most of the trouble. more subject to irritaThose who have a thin and tender skin and a heavy and stiff beard. resulting from Irritations constitu- tional disease. . but with care.8o SHAVING MADE EASY. should. be treated by a physician. all After take care to remove the soap from the face. Some men are tion of the skin than others.

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