Making Arrows Selecting shafts

I use northern pine exclusively now for my everyday arrows (I use ash and poplar for some specialist shafts). The sudden tree death disease is raging through the northern states and badly affecting the POC. There is a stockpile and I dont think the disease affects the quality of the wood as long as it is harvested soon after dying. There is a complete embargo on cutting live trees. Everything I say here goes for all wooden shafts. The shafts should be roughly straight. Gentle distortions can usually be removed with a little heat and flexing but avoid kinks.

Spine and diameter

Spine is the flexibility of the shaft. The faster the bow the stiffer the shaft you will need. For straight bows (AFB/LT) you will need arrows a little less stiff than the spine ratings so for a 40lb longbow you will need 30-35lb spine arrows. Recurved bows tend to be faster and the arrow spine will be closer to bow weight. It is worth bearing in mind that the spine is static spine. It doesnt take into account: Pile weight heavy piles will make the arrows behave as though they have a lighter spine. Fletching drag large or angled fletchings will make the arrows behave as though they have a heavier spine. Arrow length - the spine is measured over a 26 length longer arrows behave as thought they have a lighter spine. To some extent the diameter will be dictated by the spine. Heavier spines are only available in larger diameters. Where there is an overlap it is a matter of personal preference but the following might be factors: Thinner arrows are less affected by crosswinds Thicker arrows make a bigger hole and youll get marginally more line cutters

Weight
The arrows should have enough weight to absorb the energy of the bow, too light ant there will be some energy not transferred leading to hand shock and noise. Too heavy and they will slow the limbs.

Grain
The grain in the wood represents the tree rings. There are three views that you need to bear in mind.

1. The long grain edge should run along the shaft without twisting because with changes in humidity the shaft will tend to warp. 2. The ring grain may show v-shaped contours. If these are obvious and consistent they should point towards the nock end so that if the grain lifts will not tend to catch your bow hand. 3. the end grain will dictates the orientation of the nock. The slot of the nock will run at right angles to the end grain. If you run the nock parallel it will tend to split along the grain.

Cutting the nocks

Self nocks have to be about deep and should just grip the string. They should be cut across the endgrain with a saw. It is important to cut them in the centre and a simple jig can help. It is possible to use a bandsaw with a jig to centre the shaft on the blade. The saw cut can be opened out first of all with a fine diamond file or nail file and then with an emery board or some sandpaper folded over a few times.

A nock cutting jig

This is a simple jig that will hold the arrow and guide the saw to get a straight and central cut. The arrow guide is roughly v-shaped so it will centre itself on arrows of different diameter arrows. The taper at the back end allows the arrow to be inserted.

The whole thing is held together with elastic bands. The arrow is inserted just lower than the end of the block so that there is a part of the guide slot to put the saw in.. Normally Id lightly grip the jig in a vice but on the right you an see how the saw is guided across the arrow. Im using a very nice Japanese saw here but a hacksaw or any fine toothed saw will work.

A bandsaw guide
This is the guide I use on the bandsaw. The keel fits snugly into the slot in the table. Fine adjustments are made using the plastic blade guides.

Reinforcing the Nocks

Unreinforced nocks will break The arrow will flirt unpredictably and the effect of dry loosing will do the bow no good. The simplest reinforcement is a few turns of thread held in place with a coat of varnish or glue. I use linen thread and whip it on with a lost loop. This is much easier to show in picture than to describe in words:

From top left: 1. This is the loop that is going to be used to pull the loose end through. 2. Start with the end of the thread going towards the end of the arrow. 3. Bind over the end of the thread and the loop. 4. Keep binding keeping it neat and tight 5. Cut the thread and thread the end through the loop 6. Pull the loop through bringing the end of the thread with it (not pictured because I didnt have a spare hand) 7. Pull tight and cut the loose ends close with a sharp knife.

And this is what it looks like when it has been varnished (in this case with button polish