51-matrix-quality-manual-jan-2010.pdf | Seam (Sewing) | Quality (Business)

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QUALITY OPERATIONS MANUAL

“BY NATURE WE ARE RESTLESS, ALWAYS SEEKING IMPROVEMENTS, AND WILL REMAIN THIS WAY, IT’S PART OF OUR DNA”
Copyright 2010 © Matrix Sourcing. All Rights Reserved.

www.apparelco.com

TABLE OF CONTENTS
SR# 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 PREFACE COMPANY OVERVIEW QUALITY PROCESS FLOW CHART GARMENT ENGINEERING BULK FABRIC LOT APPROVAL PROCEDURE LAB TEST PROCEDURE INHOUSE PRE-PRODUCTION MEETING VENDOR PRE-PRODUCITON MEETING QUALITY ONLINE DATA (QUONDA) TYPES OF INSPECTION FINAL INSPECTION REQUIREMENTS FINAL INSPECTION PROCEDURE GARMENT INSPECTION METHOD GARMENT MEASUREMENT METHODS DEFECTS CLASSIFICATION PRODUCT SAFETY OVERVIEW SYSTEM AUDIT TRAINING (GENERIC) MATRIX CODE OF CONDUCT EMPLOYEES ETHICAL CODE ACKKNOWLEDGEMENT SUPPLIER MANUAL APPENDIX LIST (A THROUGH Z) CONTENTS PAGE # 2 3 5 6 11 12 13 16 20 21 25 26 35 52 81 103 106 107 108 110 111 112

Updated: January, 2010

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www.apparelco.com

PREFACE
Quality is an integral part of services that Matrix Sourcing provides to its valued customers. Although this manual describes Matrix’s quality requirements and expectations, Matrix also expects its partner suppliers to develop a positive culture of quality. This culture must begin with management commitment to prevention based & continuous improvement based quality systems including; x x x x Allocate appropriate resources to ensure quality systems are effective Encourage participation of all workers in improvement plans Ensure that processes are stable & capable Document systems, processes, procedures etc. as necessary to maintain effective operations

This manual offers step by step instructions to conduct inspection’s and thus serves the purpose of training team members. Many procedures included in this manual have been carefully adopted from our customers. Where necessary, some procedures have been standardized after carefully studying the standards and procedures supplied by our customers and any exceptions have been clearly marked. Although every possible effort has been employed to make this manual error free, if you find any errors, please feel free to contact the quality assurance department. This manual will be updated on continuous basis and latest update will always be available at Matrix portal database.

Updated: January, 2010.

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QUALITY CONTROL: The Quality Control teams at Matrix perform pre-shipment audits. Some of our vendors are now ISO 14001 certified.www. and is considered a leader in region. It caters to select clientele linking them with reliable suppliers. 2010 3 . Having done extensive work for the factories doing business with these buyers. The company has been in business for over 20 years. The QM (Quality Assurance + Quality Control) systems have been developed through years of successful business with the leading knitwear and woven brands of the US such as Nike. Matrix also invests it's time and resources in nurturing continuous improvement in process. Inspectors are regularly evaluated and certified to ensure transparency and homogeneity of the process. MTAR.com COMPANY OVERVIEW Matrix is a progressive and ethical buying office. but also extends into various interconnected facilities for vendors. This is why relationships developed by Matrix last a lifetime. All major vendors are compliant to WRAP and FLA standards. monitoring of learning curves and fit products to process capability. They are designed to build quality into the process and product. Our assurance programs help identify areas of improvement. and then ensures that the linkages and relationships are not only monitored to meet and exceed expectations. Matrix develops a strategy as unique as the client. Updated: January. Van Heusen. people and product. BTX etc. Apart from core services that are specific to orders placed. the people at Matrix have gained a lot of valuable experience.apparelco. Resources are intelligently allocated to reflect priorities. COMPLIANCE: Ethics are the fundamental business principle at Matrix Sourcing. We make every possible effort to ensure our business partners are ethically responsible down the chain. many already approved by these independent bodies. ethical business practices do not stop in-house. Assurance teams use many tools such as troubleshooting. All our vendors have to pass our stringent criteria of corporate and social responsibility. QUALITY ASSURANCE: Assurance and Control are equal functions in our quality management program. but also keep evolving to higher levels of performance over time. At Matrix. Adidas. We keep ourselves abreast with customs and security compliance standards of all importing countries and ensure that the supply chain is fully secure and compliant. and lead to training programs at the vendors end.

Our pre production team works with well articulated and well thought out timing and action calendars ensuring that each product is ready for production in the true sense before it gets handed over to production departments for manufacturing. the quality of production and pricing issues. Business development provides buyers with services that can foster bulk business.www. and Production Monitoring & Management. safely and on-time all across the globe.apparelco. On one hand this gives us worldwide reach. The logistics department at Matrix has a combination of global reach and local knowledge which gives our buyers a competitive edge. The extranet takes care of the data collection and dissemination needs of the organization and ensures a smooth workflow throughout the office. The basis for this is our comprehensive network: combining air and ground transport for optimal delivery performance. 4 . It serves as the initial phase in catering to new buyers. We manage shipments rapidly. We serve as a buffer to make sure that the buyer only walks away with the best possible image in his mind regarding leadtimes. 2010.Pre production / Approvals. quality of samples. sampling and information collection. a strong local presence and unique understanding of international markets and customers. From a broader perspective. It is equipped with the best hardware and software facilities specifically geared to the sourcing environment. Each production activity is monitored closely for adherence to the start and end dates specified in the initial timing and action calendars. and on the other. The department provides assistance on a micro level. CORE OPERATIONS: Our core operations are divided into two categories. TRAFFIC: In the logistics area.com IT & HRD: The IT department at Matrix takes care of all the needs of a global organization that needs to stay WELL INFORMED. Updated: January. This IT department also works in close relation with the Quality department so that realtime tracking of quality issues is possible through our in-house developed Quality Management System namely QUONDA. Effective management of the pre-production approvals process is critical to delivering great quality product on time. ‘acclimatizing’ them to the industry / Matrix’s way of working. globalization is creating even more complex supply chains. The information tracking module is built with a centralized database server that stores the entire company’s information in one efficient database server. after we get the ground work done in pricing and sampling. PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT AND MATERIALS: The product development section at Matrix is a window for new buyers in terms of pricing. something that is essential to the growth of any account. Timely approvals results in hassle free production without any stoppages.

com QUALITY PROCESS FLOW CHART Garment Engineering Approve Bulk Fabric Lots Conduct In-house PP Meeting Conduct Vendor PP Meeting UPDATE INSPECTION REPORT ON MATRIX PORTAL DATABASE Conduct Trial Run Inspection Conduct Operation Inline Inspection Conduct Offline Inline Inspection Take TOP Samples Conduct Finishing Inline Inspection Conduct Batch Audit Conduct Pre-final Inspection Conduct Final Inspection Take Shipment Samples Updated: January. 2010 5 .www.apparelco.

Garment engineering also confirms the garment shrinkage and wash look etc.com GARMENT ENGINEERING The garment engineering plays integral roll in overall garment manufacturing. We can verify all these aspects through garment engineering to avoid production losses.apparelco. To make garment before start bulk production to confirm following according to the requirement of customer. 6 . x x x x x x Fabrication Garment Aesthetics Garment Stitching Garment Accessories Garment wash and appearance testing Garment Specs The following are the steps of garment engineering PROTO SAMPLE I & II SALESMAN SAMPLE / DEVELOPMENT SAMPLE SIZE SET QRS / PPS PRODUCTION Updated: January. 2010. Before start of bulk production it is very essential to verify garment for measurements. aesthetic and garment manufacturability.www.

accessories etc. fabrication . x Pre-production meeting held in the presence of Matrix merchandising. After proto / fit approval. styling and garment measurement comply with given standards.e. vendor merchandising and production team. Vendor Merchandiser submits proto / fit sample to the Matrix Sourcing sampling department for proto / fit sample evaluation. construction details . SALES SAMPLE x Matrix Sourcing merchandiser will submit request to the vendor for sales samples along with style.www. 2010 7 .com PROTO / FIT SAMPLE EVALUATION x Matrix Sourcing Merchandiser forward sample request to vendor for proto / fit sample along with the required information i. proto sample will send to the buyer and after buyer approval sales man sample procedure will start. x All fabric. Style sheet . In case of rejection of proto / fit sample. embellishment and accessories are signed by the Matrix Sourcing merchandising before start of sales sample production. x Matrix Sourcing sampling department will conduct final audit after completion of sales sample production. x x x x Matrix Sourcing sampling executive verifies garment construction. vender will re-submit the entire sample for proto / fit sample approval. x The sales sample will be made in actual fabric and accessories.apparelco. x Matrix Sourcing sampling department conducts in line audits during sale sample production. Updated: January. fabrication and accessories details.

and ensure product conformance in production. In case of sample rejection factory resubmits sample to Matrix Sourcing for evaluation. construction.www. For any change in QRS / PP sample a new sample is sealed to avoid any mistakes. 8 . 2010. x x x QRS / PP sample is a physical sample that represents an acceptable product.com SIZE SET x After proto / fit approval. Matrix sampling verifies QRS / PP sample for fabrication. ROLE CLARIFICATION Sample Type Proto Sales Sample Development Sample Size set QRS / PP TOP Owner Factory + Matrix Merchandiser Factory + Matrix Merchandiser Factory + Matrix Merchandiser Factory + Matrix Merchandiser Factory + Matrix Merchandiser Factory + Matrix Merchandiser Responsible Sampling Sampling Sampling Sampling Sampling QC In loop QC QC QC QC QC Sampling Updated: January. The sample is kept in the production line. Matrix Sourcing merchandising forwards request to vendor for size set along with specs / grading. Matrix sampling also verifies proto / fit comments(if any) during size set evaluation. so that it is available for tailors and other production staff for quick review. The purpose of QRS / PP sample is to demonstrate manufacturing capability prior to start of production.apparelco. x x QRS / PP SAMPLE x After size set approval Matrix merchandiser will forward request to vendor for Preproduction samples / Qualified reference sample along with previous samples comments. After sample evaluation as per customer standards. measurement and accessories. Matrix sampling technition seal the QRS / PP sample for production reference. Matrix Sourcing sampling department verifies garment measurement and Construction according to the required standard and make its report.

2010 9 .www.com MATRIX DAILY SAMPLE LOG SHEET SAMPLE EVALUATION SPECS SHEET Updated: January.apparelco.

Garment engineering process should be executed by concerned stakeholders in a manner to achieve timeline for sample approval. product safety checklist. Sampling package normally includes unwashed garments. 2010.apparelco. proto / sample comments etc Updated: January.www. Always consult customer quality manual for sampling package requirements and timelines for approval because criteria of every customer is different.com SAMPLE COMMENT SHEET SAMPLING PACKAGE & TIMELINES REQUIREMENT Every buyer has different timeline for sample approvals. 10 . wash test reports. washed garments.

+a* Redd Depth: Go Light / Go Dark Tone: Go Red / Go Green / Go Blue / Go Yellow Chroma: Go Bright / Go Dull Updated: January. vendor dyes bulk fabric and sends two swatches for shade approval to Matrix.www. 2010 11 . Pre-production merchandiser / fabric development team gives original color standards or approved lab dips to Matrix QC.apparelco. Matrix QC signs both swatches and marks “OK” on swatch. If bulk lot is not a good match with approved lab dip or previously approved lots. Matrix QC marks “Reject” on both swatches and writes remarks for improvement.com BULK FABRIC LOT APPROVAL PROCEDURE Once lab dips are approved by the customer. If bulk lot is well matched with approved lab dip and previously approved lots. so that QC’s are well versed with buyer standards while inspecting or approving fabric shade. Vendor must resubmit all rejected lots to Matrix QC for approval. This should also include any other fabric materials being dyed with body fabric. HOW TO COMMENT ON SHADE? Use one or more of shade dimensions from below. One swatch is returned to vendor and second is kept in “Bulk Fabric Lots File” of respective style for future reference. Only use one from the slashed options at a time.

damage. skewness. Testing in garment form is a must.apparelco.g bursting strength. Factory may start cutting based on its internal pass test report. UV transmittance etc Colorfastness properties tests e. hydrostatic pressure test.g absorbency test. print durability etc x x Updated: January.com MATRIX SOURCING LAB TESTING PROCEDURE Before bulk production starts.g. shrinkage. Matrix QC randomly picks fabric for testing. Following are some test requirements from our customers. x Physical properties tests e.g water repellency. GSM. wicking test etc Garment durability and appearance retention tests Graphic and print durability tests x x x x x x Note: All tests are conducted based on customers testing requirements / methods therefore customer manual is always consulted prior to testing. fabric count. pilling resistance. pilling. perspiration. water. snagging. tensile test etc Water resistance properties e. flammability. colorfastness to laundering. abrasion resistance.www. tear test. dimensional stability. QC must evaluate the tested specimen by himself for following. waterproofness etc Moisture management properties e. pH. rain test. x Compare test report number with the number mentioned on tested specimen to ensure that the report is of tested specimen Compare tested specimen with its approved standard Check tested specimen for any color bleeding. 2010. cuttable width.g. Garment from bulk production (all colorways) is randomly selected and submitted for testing to customer approved third party lab. 12 . crocking etc Stretch and strength properties e. seam slippage.

com IN-HOUSE PRE-PRODUCTION MEETING Where: Conference Room / Quality Room When: After PP sample has been sealed by sampling department. size label. Zippers and other accessory approvals in all sizes & colors Embellishment approvals in all sizes & colors Packing Instructions Garment fold size. PARTICIPANTS: x x x x x x Sampling Executive Pre-production Merchandiser Production merchandiser Quality Control Manager Quality Controller Product Safety Analyst Sampling Briefing: Sampling executive gives comprehensive briefing about styling according to customer fit comments. care label. ID/Time and other label approval in all sizes & colors Sewing threads. Order spread sheet(s) Fabric. Production Merchandising Briefing: Production merchandiser hands over the following to Manager QC. Fusing. rib and other trim approvals in all colors Main label.www. He identifies vital concerns in the style and also mentions its technical aspects. PPS comments. Pollybag quality & size. x x x x x x x x Purchase order(s). 2010 13 . Pre-Production Merchandising Briefing: Pre-production merchandiser hands over the following to Manager QC.apparelco. Size set comments Approved Sealed sample Note: In-house PP meeting cannot be held in absence of any of the above. Buttons. Measurement Sheet BOM if available from customer Proto / Fit / Counter samples comments. x x x x Style Sheet. Carton quality & size approvals Packing accessories approvals Updated: January.

In line / Pre final / Final inspection reports Updated: January. Approved bulk fabric card 7. Packing instructions / Directive 5. Bill of materials (BOM) if available 2.apparelco. Quality Control File Contents: 1. Sample comments 6.com Note: The concerned production merchandiser should sign all approvals before handing over to QC. This date should be prior to start of production. The QC marks “NA” (not available) in case of anything not being used for the particular style. Lab testing requirements about particular order 10. Purchase order sheet / Spread sheet 3. Quality Controller Responsibility: Quality controller receives all approvals and records them on “In-house PP Meeting checklist”. QC also records expected date of receiving non-available approvals and follows up accordingly with production merchandiser. Approved embellishment card 8. Style sheet / Measurements sheet 4. Approved garment accessories 9.www. In case of non-availability of any of the above approvals. Approved packing accessories 9. production merchandiser must mention the date for handing over missing approvals. 2010. 14 .

2010 15 .com Updated: January.www.apparelco.

apparelco. Shrinkage.com VENDOR PRE-PRODUCTION MEETING Conducted by: Matrix Quality Controller Where: Vendor production facility When: After conducting Matrix In-house Pre-Production meeting. Vendor Sampling Manager 8. before vendor starts cutting. Shade & Cross staining. 16 . Matrix Merchandisers. Fabric GSM.www. Vendor Production Supervisors 10. Vendor Cutting Manager 7. PARTICIPANTS: 1. 2010. stripe matching. Grading of pocket. Vendor Quality Inspectors 6. Potential production problems according to fabric behavior i. pattern adjustment and fabric wale’s positioning etc. Vendor Merchandisers Matrix QC leads Vendor pre-production meeting and discusses potential concerns in production as below. measurements.e. 4. holes and contrast seeds in thermal fabric etc.e. inserts etc Updated: January. Matrix Quality Control Manager 2. panels. Vendor Production Manager 9. Matrix Quality Controller 3. Fabrication Issues: x x x All expected fabrication issues especially those highlighted by the customer during sampling process. Vendor Quality Control Manager 5. Cutting issues: x x All cutting related issues highlighted by the customer during sampling process i. pilling in fleece fabric. Vendor Rowing Inspectors 11.

x x x x Updated: January.A) to Matrix QC in vendor pre-production meeting. Difficult operations checklist is maintained and verified during production. 2010 17 . Factory specs men are advised to measure first batch after pressing to ensure that pressing instructions are properly followed. Matrix QC distributes pre production comments to all participants through e-mail. Pressing instructions are placed and clearly demonstrated. The vendor representative gives production time and action plan (T. pre final and final inspections.N.e. fold size. After conducting Vendor pre-production meeting. Construction & Stitching issues: x Sample comments regarding sewing issues and every operation of concerned style is discussed. carton size and printing etc. Difficult operations are highlighted and displayed for every style. Matrix QC emphasizes on vendor pre-production meeting points during sewing inline. heat transfer. embroidery. Emphasis is on critical operations. print. decorative patches etc are discussed. This includes garment shape.com Embellishment issues: x All potential issues in application of embellishment i. x x Finishing issues: x All expected finishing and packing issues specially those highlighted by the customer are discussed with vendor. flock. All out of routine operations are discussed with sampling master and finalized in vendor pre production meeting.apparelco.www.

Shrink Other Garment Particulars Body color Embellishment Zipper Snaps / Draw cord Panels Ribs Twill tape Updated: January. 18 .com VENDOR PRE – PRODUCTION REVIEW MEETING FORMAT Buyer Vendor Style # BOM Date Garment Description Accessories Description Main Label PO ID CNC Interfacing Elastic Width Hang tag UPC QRS Approval Date Specs Date Fabric Description & GSM Cary over from IM # Pre. 2010.apparelco.www.

com VENDOR PRE-PRODUCTION MEETING CHECK LIST Sr # 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 Contents Fabric in which trial run has been done? Size in which trial run has been done and number of pieces? What sorts of fabric previously were in these lines? What type of needle brand previously been used for that fabric? Specs Accuracy Which area needs adjustment? Who has checked and verified the specs? Do we need to adjust the paper pattern and which area? Does pattern check against the specs by sample room Machine needs adjustment if previously had different fabrication? What needle brand and number will be suitable for such fabric? Sewing thread Quality being used? Do we need to change any operation to have better Quality and production? What work aid do we require for this style. twill tape and accessories been inspected and tested? Remarks DIFFICULT OPERATION CHECK LIST Sr # Area Operation Remarks QUONDA Updated: January.apparelco. rib. 2010 19 .www. Does embellishment card and test report in production file? Does trial run being done with embellishment? Has Fabric.

QUONDA analyst at Matrix continuously monitor inspection reports from all sources and takes immediate action in case of any problem. proximity & availability x x x Updated: January. x x QC’s upload defective pictures (every inspection) and carton pictures (final inspection) in QUONDA database at the end of the day or very next day. To achieve this objective Matrix Sourcing has developed a system of quality online data analysis named as “QUONDA”. 2010. After completion of each inspection QC’s make their reports. system generated SMS is sent to all QC’s about their audit schedule and audit codes. QUONDA provides optimal allocation of resources based on individual skills. reliable & real time data can be provided to line management. The reports & record of all these inspections is entered in QUONDA database on hourly basis.com (QUALITY ONLINE DATA ANALYSIS) Quality can be improved only if accurate. Matrix quality assurance department conducts different types of inspections at vendors premises. Time reduced between audit conducted & results being delivered to stakeholders to take corrective & preventive actions. x x QC’s perform their inspections in factories according to the given schedule. This system has ability to spot trends and resolve issues as they occur. 20 . take defectives pictures and send SMS of audit findings to system. The entered report appears in QUONDA database within few seconds and SMS alert is sent to all key personnel at factory and matrix about audit findings.www.apparelco. Audit code is generated for every audit to be conducted. The record of inspections entered in QUONDA is later used as a tool for conducting different types of quality analysis. QUONDA system operational procedure is as under. x QUONDA analyst plans audit schedule considering number of audits at different locations.

Updated: January. All inspection reports are prepared on formats designed by Matrix Sourcing and entered in Matrix database by Matrix QC. Final fabric inspection OFF LOOM FABRIC INSPECTION WHY: Off loom inspection is conducted on regular basis to ensure prevention of defect at grass root level and that given customer standards are being followed in production of fabric. Quality manual of every customer is consulted before starting inspection of any brand. FINAL FABRIC INSPECTION WHY: To quantify defect rate and to ensure that finishing requirements are met. 1. 2010 21 . Off loom fabric inspection 2. Fabric inspection is conducted at two different stages. Customer manual for quality standards. Four point inspection system is followed. Any issue regarding fabrication is brought to the knowledge of all concerned personnel. The sample size is 10 % of shipment quantity. Production status should be noted on the appropriate box on this format. FABRIC INSPECTION This inspection is performed in facilities offering fabric as final finished prouduct. The purpose of this inspection is to assure that fabric produced is as per customer requirements. WHEN: Once complete shipment is packed and shipping documentation are ready. test requirements and auditing procedures must be consulted.www. WHEN: During fabric production. discuss with all key personnel and enter report and defect images on portal database. HOW: About 100-150 yards or 10% of every lot is inspected.apparelco. HOW: This inspection is conducted following international fabric inspection methods.com TYPES OF INSPECTIONS Matrix quality department conducts different types of inspections in fabric and garment form. QC makes report of inspection.

apparelco.com GARMENT INSPECTION TYPES The below mentioned inspections are conducted in factories offering garment as finished product. HOW: About 20 garments in each size are stitched (washed if required) & finished. uneven cut panels. These garments are checked for measurements.e. CUT PANEL INSPECTION WHY: To assure that cut panels being forwarded to sewing lines are defect free and have no negative impact on apparel product integrity. 22 . OPERATIONAL INLINE INSPECTION WHY: To ensure no sewing mistakes are reflected in production garments. Updated: January. TRIAL RUN INSPECTION WHY: To streamline production line according to customer’s requirements and to make any necessary changes to pattern for achieving required measurements of garment. WHEN: Before induction of panels in sewing lines. Problems are identified and corrective action is suggested / demonstrated to vendor.www. WHEN: After vendor pre-production meeting & before start of bulk cutting. When bulk cutting starts. This inspection is the most critical one and can help a long way in achieving low defect rate goals. HOW: QC randomly picks sample of 20 cut panels from cutting bundles. Matrix QC keeps special focus on any issue until issue is permanently resolved. fabric defects on panels. QC inspects 5 to 10 garments from each machine. WHEN: As soon as sewing starts in production line HOW: Each sewing operation is checked stepwise by Matrix QC on all sewing machines. Any issues regarding pattern adjustment and cutting are brought to the knowledge of sampling and cutting department respectively. Any nonconformance in cut panels i. 2010. pattern adjustment etc is brought to the knowledge of cutting department.

This inspection is based upon customer’s Acceptance Quality Level (AQL) requirement. WHEN: Once garments have been pressed. This inspection will always be carried out whenever factory will induct new or carryover style in sewing lines. WHEN: When garment starts to come off the sewing line.www. WHEN: This inspection will be carried out at first off product. HOW: Garments are randomly selected and checked for quality and measurements. OFFLINE INLINE / OUT PUT INSPECTION WHY: To quantify the defect rate of production line and identify major problems. FINISHING INLINE INSPECTION WHY: To quantify defect rate and to ensure that all finishing requirements are met. This inspection is also based upon customer’s Acceptance Quality Level (AQL) requirement. WHEN: At least 100 pcs packed in each style.com FIRST 32 GARMENTS INSPECTION WHY: To verify whatever discussed during pre-production meeting and operational inlines stage has been followed or not. All passed cartons are kept in warehouse with passing date of batch marked on each carton. HOW: Garments are randomly selected and checked for quality and measurements. HOW: Sample of first off 32 garments is selected and sample is thoroughly checked for measurement and garment compliance. Reject batch is reaudited and “OK” batch is forwarded to packing section. HOW: Procedure of conducting interim audit is same as final audit. Updated: January. 2010 23 .apparelco. so that measures can be taken to control them. INTERIM AUDIT / BATCH AUDITS WHY: To ensure that every batch being passed by finishing inspectors is as per customer’s requirement.

pressed and packed as bulk. Updated: January. PRODUCTION SAMPLE REQUIREMENTS WHY: Main purpose of customer’s requirement of TOP. FINAL INSPECTION WHY: To check the outgoing quality of garments & measure the defect rate. This inspection is also based upon customer’s Acceptance Quality Level (AQL) requirement. WHEN: At least 80% of shipment is packed in cartons. HOW: Garments are randomly selected and checked for quality and measurements.com PRE-FINAL INSPECTION WHY: To check the quality of shipment expected to be presented for final inspection. as at final inspection stage time for correction may be limited. It is a chance to make any necessary correction.apparelco. HOW: Every customer has its own requirement for shipment samples. garments must be washed if required. 2010. Please note that some customers do not require TOP or inline samples. An Inspection certificate is issued to vendor upon completion of this inspection. Customers quality standards are strictly followed while inspection. HOW: Garments are randomly selected and checked for quality and measurements. This inspection is also based upon customer’s Acceptance Quality Level (AQL) requirement. Ad or Inline samples is to make sure that production quality is the same as pre-production samples and it incorporates all desired improvements. 24 . WHEN: Once complete shipment is packed and shipping documentation are ready.www. WHEN: After inline inspection.

com MATRIX SOURCING FINAL INSPECTION REQUIREMENTS x Vendor must inform Matrix 24 hours prior to presenting final audit. Note: If any of the above is missing. This request is made through e-mail. For late night and off day audits. x IMPORTANT x All third time failed audits are considered b-grades and matrix sourcing notifies to buyer.apparelco.www. QC is bound to not conduct Final audit. This applies to all inspection levels and factories must endorse this practice. x FINAL AUDIT PRE-REQUEST FORMAT (24 HOURS BEFORE INTIMATION) Vendor Name: Unit # GT / WO # STYLE # PO # COLOR DATE: QTY TIME REMARKS FINAL AUDIT PRE-REQUEST FORMAT (WEEKLY) Vendor Name: Unit # GT / WO # DATE STYLE # PO # FROM COLOR QTY TO TIME REMARKS Updated: January. 2010 25 . Vendor will also give weekly audit plan on prescribed format. vendor must inform Senior Management (COO) 48 hours prior to presenting final audit. Matrix auditing policy requires all QC’s / QA’s to takes pictures of the nonconformances found during their audits.

Environment clean. C. The work area should be well organized at all times.apparelco. C. The auditing procedure explained below is for all customers. dry and quiet. Defect stickers. B. Work space should be clean and clear.com FINAL INSPECTION PROCEDURE (GENERIC) Matrix Sourcing has developed its own procedures for conducting audits. B. Appropriate room temperature and light level should be maintained in inspection area. Box Knife. 26 . WORKSPACE REQUIREMENTS: A. Updated: January. Steel or reinforced fiberglass ¼” tape. A. 2010. AUDITING TOOLS: All auditing tools should be well organized and accessible.www. Any additional requirement by any customer is also fulfilled by adding that requirement in our generic procedure.

This includes. PO. additional reports if required. Style information: Specification sheet.www. approved trim cards.com PAPER WORK: Paper work should be located. Audit information: AQL chart. 2010 27 . size specification. Measurement manual.final pass report Packing list Deviation Chart QRS (Qualified reference sample) / Color wise QRS Product safety report and Metal detection (If applicable) Updated: January. Brand information: Quality manual. audit reports. embellishment artwork etc. PP sample. x x x x x Pre. BRAND QUALITY MANUAL ADDITIONAL REQUIREMENTS: Following additional requirements should be followed.apparelco. wash test reports.

2 Carton (Kgs) Weight Gross Weight Net Weight 5.0 Carton size (Inches) Country of Origin: Length: Pakistan 12 Height: 8 Sign (Packing Incharge) Updated: January.4 5. 4 5.4 Wid th: XL - 2XL - 1762 Average 5.2 5.6 5. 28 . 2010. 2 18 46 L 5.apparelco. Packing List Customer Style # Vendor Name Carton Number 1-18 19 20-34 35 36-57 58 59-73 74 NIke 190183 Style Textile Color Name Red Red Blue Blue Black Black Yello w Yello w Color Code 218 218 278 278 213 213 124 124 Date PO # Vendor ID # Quantity S 24 18 5-Jan-2010 450146666 STY Total Units 432 16 360 19 528 22 360 23 # of Cartons 18 1 15 1 22 1 15 1 M 24 19 24 23 L 24 22 - XL - 2XL - Total 74 42 S 90 M 5.www.com PACKING LIST VERIFICATION Packing list should be in the following or similar computerized format preferably on vendor’s letter head.

www. Color wise and in total as allowed by the customer.46% L 605 0 615 +10 +0.01% Total 3710 0 3764 +54 +0.com DEVIATION CHART Deviation chart should be in the following or similar computerized format preferably on vendor letter head.85% Order Quantity Pre-Shipped Packed Quantity Deviation (+/-) Deviation (+/-%) Color: NAVY Order Quantity Pre-Shipped Packed Quantity Deviation (+/-) Deviation (+/-%) Grand Total Order Quantity Pre-Shipped Packed Quantity Deviation (+/-) Deviation (+/-%) 1074 346 1074 380 0 +34 0% +0. Textiles Color: RED S 108 0 110 +2 +1.855 0 1.01% Total 1.02% L 1210 0 1230 +20 +0.1% Updated: January.apparelco.02% L 605 0 615 +10 +0. Deviation is always preferred to be on plus side. Deviation Chart Customer Style # PVH D1242332 Date PO # Vendor ID # M 432 0 430 -2 -0.882 +27 +0.85% S 108 0 110 +2 +1. 2010 29 .46% M 864 0 860 -4 -0. Make sure that the deviation is within acceptable percentage.02% XL 537 0 537 0 0% XL 537 0 537 0 0% XL 0 20-Jan-2005 E0231334-0003 8706 XXL 173 0 190 +17 +0.882 +27 +0.1% XXL 0 Total 1.855 0 1.S .46% M 432 0 430 -2 -0.1% XXL 173 0 190 +17 +0. size wise.01% Vendor Name D.85% S 216 0 220 +4 +1. If deviation is out of tolerance then inform Manager QC and Merchandiser.

The basic concept of using AQL is to give inspection teams the means of measuring faults within a consignment of merchandize without 100% inspection. 30 . Sample size is selected based on AQL chart. The sampling plans most frequently used by the military standard are based on the AQL system. Matrix Sourcing follows AQL given by our customers at all inspection stages. 2010.www.apparelco. AQL CHART Updated: January. that for the purpose of sampling inspection can be considered satisfactory acceptable.com USE OF SAMPLING PLAN (AQL) Acceptable Quality Level (AQL) is defined as the maximum number of defects per unit of product.

Total cartons = CTN / SKU * SKU. CARTON QUANTITY AND CARTON LABELS A. PO Material. PCS / SKU C. A. All shipping cartons must meet customer quality standards. UCC sticker placement. All carton labels are checked with the information provided on purchase order and ESI sheet. QC calculates sample size per store keeping unit with the help of following formula. E. Carton marking and carton stickers placement is checked. 1-19 20-31 32-49 CTN / SKU 2 3 4 D. SKU = No of sizes * No of colors. E. PCS/CTN = Sample size / total cartons. Carton dimensions are measured physically (L+W+H) and verified with the size provided in packing list. This includes PO #. PCS / SKU = Sample size / SKU. D. Updated: January. B. F. G. B. over packed or under packed. Total cartons are counted against packing list and carton numbers are compared.www. Diamond mark. QC prepares a table of SKU calculation and take sample size accordingly.apparelco. Cartons must not be damaged. 2010 31 . Cartons must be properly sealed with a security tape.com SKU CALCULATION PROCEDURE The SKU selection procedure is to determine number of cartons and garments in each size and color according to required AQL level. Physical condition of all shipping cartons is checked. C.

x Carton labels are compared with carton contents. Tissue Paper etc. Pins.com PACKING INSPECTION Once cartons are marked for sample. and polybag orientation etc. ventilation holes etc.www. Packing Assortment / Ratio.apparelco. correct color. 2010. x x x x x x x Updated: January. Hangtag & UPC is checked for correct IM#. 32 . Polybag size. Packing accessories are checked e.g. correct style. Whatever is mentioned on the carton should be inside carton. If required by the customer garments are passed through metal detector machine. Embellishment along with other packing accessories is checked while checking carton contents accuracy. QC checks following in the selected cartons. polybag print. Garment fold size. Clips. Hangtags.

Specification and placement of all items used on garment is checked. hang tags. All stitching details are checked with QRS and Style sheet. Matrix Sourcing has standardized its garment compliance inspection procedure which all QC’s are bound to follow. QC checks all colors used on garment body with color standards / fabric approvals. Color combinations of all items are checked with color specification sheet. x Garment folding. ploy bag printing etc is checked with approved standards. All labels. Three garments in each size are checked for measurements i.apparelco. stickers placements. sample and embellishment approvals. Polybag and other packing accessories are checked with PP sample and approved trim card. QC checks consistency of color.www. x x x x x x x x Updated: January. Color combination and embellishment size is checked with embellishment colored artwork. 2010 33 . UPC. If any measurement falls out of tolerance then all sample size is checked for that specific measurement. embellishment shade and stickers placement for all contents of carton. one garment is checked for complete measurements and two garments are checked for key measurements.com GARMENT COMPLIANCE INSPECTION PROCEDURE The purpose of checking garment compliance is to assure that all customer requirements and expectations are met.e. Garment compliance is checked in the following manner. If bill of materials is provided by the buyer then garment is compared thoroughly checked with BOM. garment orientation.

Concerned personnel at vendors have right to access their reports on portal but that access is limited up to vendor related reports only. Note: Inspection reports format are attached in appendix A. The main purpose of shipment sample is to assure product quality of concerned shipment to customer and In case of any complaint from customer. “OK” and defective garments are kept separate and findings are shared with all concerned personnel. Reports entered in portal database can be reviewed and analyzed by all concerned personnel at Matrix. QC give one copy to merchandiser. Updated: January. Defects pictures are taken and audit status is updated on Matrix portal database. one copy to factory representative and one copy is kept with him for record.www. B. All audit findings are recorded in Matrix inspection report form. 2010. As soon as the report is entered in database a system generated SMS about audit findings is sent to all concerned personnel. C & D. Normally it is preferred to have shipment samples available in all colors and sizes for a single style. Quantity of shipment samples taken varies from customer to customer. 34 . Matrix can verify with their reference shipment sample. QC takes decision about shipment based on AQL provided by customer.apparelco. The data on portal can be later used as a tool for different analysis.com INSPECTION & REPORTING PROCEDURE Garment inspection is conducted in clockwise manner. Matrix QC. This method is consistently used throughout inspection. production merchandiser and vendor representative signs inspection report. SHIPMENT SAMPLES Matrix QC picks shipment samples after each final inspection. Inspection report form contains three copies.

Garment inspection should be done in clockwise direction as shown below: 2. Pick up by shoulder points. Clockwise garment inspection is a systematic procedure of inspecting garments to ensure that the garment conforms to customer’s specifications.www. CLOCKWISE INSPECTION KNITTED TOP 1. Inspectors are bound to follow a ‘check list’ therefore it is highly unlikely that he/she might miss an irregularity. References to Right and Left are AS WORN. Check front & back appearance & presentation is correct.apparelco. 2010 35 . Updated: January.com GARMENT INSPECTION METHOD All types of garments are inspected using clockwise method.

36 . Examine inside shoulder seam Updated: January.www.com 3. 2010.apparelco. 4. Open & check any center front opening 5. Examine inside and outside of collar / neck. Lie flat on table. Examine styling details.

Updated: January. 7. Examine back neck.www. 8. examine back left armhole. Check for shading. Fold top forward at shoulders.com 6. Fold sleeve across front of garment. Examine left shoulder and armhole seam. 2010 37 .apparelco.

2010.com 9. Check C&C label. Examine left sleeve cuff inside & out. Updated: January. 11. 10. front & back. Examine left underarm seam & left side seam.www. 38 .apparelco. Examine bottom hem inside and out.

14. 2010 39 . Examine right sleeve cuff inside and out. Updated: January. check for shading.www. 13. Examine back right armhole.apparelco. Fold sleeve across front of garment.com 12. Examine right side seam & right underarm.

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15. Examine right armhole seam and shoulder seam.

16. Turn garment over. Examine styling details & any unchecked seams on back.

17. A-Grade & B/C-Grade should be kept separate.

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CLOCKWISE INSPECTION BOTTOM / PANT
1. Pick up by waist. Check front and back appearance & presentation are correct.

2. Lie flat on table. Examine styling details, logo’s etc.

3. Examine front rise seam.

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4. Check front outside waistband. If elasticized stretch out to full extent.

5. Turn waistband back. Examine styling details, labels, drawcords etc.

6. Turn waistband inside out.

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com 7. Examine left outseam. Fold waistband over. 9. Updated: January.apparelco. Fold front rise towards auditor. Examine styling details. Examine back waist. If elasticized stretch out to full extent.www. 8. Examine left leg opening. including side pocket. outseam to inseam. 2010 43 . Check for shading.

11. 2010. Turn pant over. Examine back rise and front rise. 12. Updated: January. Fold front leg out. 44 .com 10. Examine right out seam. Return leg to original position. Examine total inseam.www.apparelco. 13. back rise to auditor.

Examine right leg opening. Examine styling details.www. Examine other unchecked seams. If elasticized stretch out to full extent.com 14. 15. Updated: January. A-Grade & B/C-Grade should be kept separate.apparelco. Turn over garment. 16. 2010 45 .

Pick up by shoulder points. Lie flat on table. 2010. Examine styling details – facings. 2. labels. Check front and back appearance & presentation is correct. 3. Updated: January. 1. 46 . Examine styling details. pockets etc.com CLOCKWISE INSPECTION JACKETS Clockwise inspection of jackets is conducted in the following manner. Check appearance and presentation.apparelco.www. Open & check center front opening.

Starting with left shoulder seam examine all liner seams in a clockwise direction.com 4. Examine inside collar. stretch out to full extent. Examine outside collar. Examine bottom hem inside & out. Updated: January. front & back. 2010 47 . 5.www. If elasticized. 6.apparelco.

Fold sleeve across front of garment. Check for shading. 2010.com 7. 48 . 9. Examine left shoulder seam & armhole seam.apparelco. 8.www. Examine inside and outside of hood. Updated: January. Examine back neck. examine back left armhole. Fold forward at shoulders.

Examine left cuff inside & out. 12. Examine right side seam & underarm seam. Updated: January. Examine left side seam & underarm seam. 2010 49 .com 10.www. 11.apparelco.

50 .com 13. 15. Fold sleeve across front of garment. Updated: January. 2010.apparelco. check for shading. 14. Examine right sleeve cuff inside and out. Examine back right armhole.www. Examine right armhole seam and shoulder seam.

www. Examine styling details & any unchecked seams. Updated: January. Turn jacket over. 2010 51 . A-Grade & B/C-Grade should be kept separate.com 16.apparelco. 17.

Knitted Top CHEST (1 INCH BELOW ARMHOLE) Measure 1” inch below armhole. straight across from edge to edge. 2010. How to Measure? The measurement methods of different areas on different garment types are shown below.com GARMENT MEASUREMENT Size specifications provided by the customer. It is vital to ensure that all garments conform to these specifications.www. straight across from edge to edge. are critical and must be followed.apparelco. Updated: January. Please note that the measurement method may vary from buyer to buyer therefore buyer measurement manual must be consulted for measurement compliance check. CHEST (ARMPIT TO ARMPIT) Measure armpit to armpit. 52 .

www. ACROSS FRONT At specified point below high point shoulder.apparelco. measure straight across armhole seam to armhole seam. measure straight across armhole seam to armhole seam. measure straight across from edge to edge. ACROSS BACK At specified point below high point shoulder. Updated: January.com HIGH CHEST (AS SPECIFIED FROM HPS) Measure specified point from hps. 2010 53 .

measure from side to side at the middle of the hem / trim. in relaxed position. BOTTOM HEM (RELAXED) With garment lying flat.www.com BOTTOM HEM Continuous Hem: Measure at bottom across from edge to edge. BOTTOM HEM (STRETCHED) Measure from side to side at the middle of the rib with the hem / trim fully extended. 54 .apparelco. Updated: January. 2010. Vented Hem: Measure just above the vent opening across from edge to edge.

2010 55 . connecting high point of shoulder seam to highest point of armhole seam.com BOTTOM HEM / TRIM HEIGHT Self Hem: Measure from bottom edge of hem to top flat lock stitch line. ACROSS SHOULDER Measure from left shoulder point (top most point of sleeve/body overlock seam) to right shoulder point straight across. Trim Hem: Measure from bottom edge of trim to over lock join seam of trim. Updated: January.apparelco.www. SHOULDER SLOPE (FROM ARMHOLE ) Measure from imaginary line.

(If garment has a rib bottom. include rib in front length measurement. 56 .www.) Front Length (From CF) Measure from highest point of neck to bottom edge of front body.apparelco. include rib in front length measurement. measure imaginary line down to shoulder.) Updated: January. (If garment has a rib bottom. 2010.com SHOULDER SLOPE (AS SPECIFIED) Measure specified point away from HPS towards armhole. FRONT LENGTH (FROM HPS) Measure from HPS (high point shoulder) to bottom edge of front body.

If garment has a rib bottom. SIDE SEAM LENGTH Measure from armpit to bottom edge of hem / trim.com BACK LENGTH (FROM HPS) Measure from high point shoulder to bottom edge of front. If garment has a rib bottom. include rib in front length measurement. BACK LENGTH (FROM CF) Measure from highest point of neck to bottom edge of front.apparelco.www. Updated: January. 2010 57 . include rib in front length measurement.

apparelco. Updated: January.com SIDE VENT LENGTH (FRONT) Measure from bottom edge of vent to opening Side Vent Length (Back) Measure from bottom edge of vent to opening. 2010.www. 58 . Sleeve length (From Center Back) Measure straight from center back to edge of sleeve / cuff / rib.

SLEEVE CAP Measure straight from center cap to farthest end of cuff or hem with garment laid flat and at a natural angle. measure straight from sleeve attach seam to bottom of sleeve.www. 2010 59 .com SLEEVE LENGTH (THREE POINT METHOD) Measure straight from center back neck seam to sleeve attach seam. UNDER ARM LENGTH Measure from armpit to sleeve/cuff/rib edge. pivot. Updated: January.apparelco.

apparelco. MUSCLE / BICEPS (FROM ARMPIT) Measure at armpit straight across at right angle to sleeve fold.www. Updated: January. 60 . 2010. 1” below armpit.com MUSCLE / BICEPS (1 INCH BELOW ARMHOLE) Measure straight across at right angle to sleeve fold. then measure straight across at a right angle to sleeve fold. ELBOW (AS SPECIFIED) Mark specified point up from cuff edge.

Updated: January.apparelco.www.com ELBOW (CENTERED) Fold cuff edge to high point of armhole. measure straight across folded line. 2010 61 . FOREARM Mark specified point up from cuff edge. then measure straight across at a right angle to sleeve fold. CUFF HEM / TRIM HEIGHT Measure from bottom edge of sleeve to farthest top stitch line of hem.

62 . 2010. Updated: January.apparelco.www. ARM HOLE (STRAIGHT) Measure from high point of armhole seam to lowest point of armhole seam straight. ARMHOLE (CURVED) Measure from high point of armhole seam to lowest point of armhole seam along the seam.com CUFF OPENING Measure cuff opening at center.

com RAGLAN DEPTH Measure from HPS to imaginary line at under arm seam. Updated: January. Measure along seam line. 2010 63 .www. NECK OPENING (RELAXED) Measured on the half. Fold neck line along center front and center back keeping neck seams even.apparelco. NECK WIDTH (SEAM TO SEAM) Measure from overlock seam to overlock seam at high points of shoulder.

64 .www. Updated: January.com NECK OPENING (STRETCH) Extend neck to maximum stretch and measure neck width point to point. 2010.apparelco.

apparelco. Updated: January. NECK HEM / TRIM HEIGHT Measure from edge of neck trim to its joining seam. NECK CIRCUMFERENCE Measure from center of collar band button to outer corner of buttonhole along the neck over lock seam.com TOP EDGE COLLAR LENGTH Measure collar length at outer edge from left collar point to right collar point. 2010 65 .www.

66 . COLLAR BAND HEIGHT At center back. measure height of collar band seam to seam.www.com COLLAR HEIGHT (FROM CENTER BACK) Measure height from out side edge of collar to the neck over lock join seam at center back. COLLAR POINT LENGTH Measure from collar point to collar join seam. 2010.apparelco. Updated: January.

Trim: Measure from trim/body join seam. FRONT NECK DROP Binding / Hem: Measure from edge Collar: Measure from collar/body join seam. Measure space at center front neck. Measure distance between the two collar points.www.com COLLAR SPREAD Fasten CF Collar band button. Fold collar naturally.apparelco. TIE SPACE Fasten CF Collar band button. Fold collar naturally. 2010 67 . Updated: January.

Binding / Hem: Measure from edge Collar: Measure from collar/body join seam. 68 . Trim: Measure from trim / body join seam.com BACK NECK DROP Measure from imaginary line (Right HPS to Left HPS) to over lock seam of neck at CB.apparelco. PLACKET WIDTH Measure from edge to edge of placket. Updated: January. 2010.www.

com PLACKET LENGTH Measure from top of placket to the bottom stitching line of placket box. Updated: January.www. 2010 69 .apparelco. PLACKET BOX HEIGHT HOOD HEIGHT / OPENING Measure straight from neck seam to top edge of hood opening. *Do not include the placket box if specially instructed.

70 . HOOD WIDTH Measure straight across hood from edge of opening to center back edge. SWEAT PATCH WIDTH Measure from outer stitch line to outer stitch line straight across at highest point.com HOOD LENGTH Measure from back neck seam to front edge along seam. 2010.apparelco. Updated: January.www.

POCKET HEIGHT At Side: Measure at side of pocket from top edge to bottom edge At Center: Measure at center of pocket from top edge to bottom edge.com SWEAT PATCH HEIGHT Measure from neck join seam down to outer stitch line of sweat patch. POCKET WIDTH Measure across top edge of pocket from edge to edge. Updated: January.www. 2010 71 .apparelco.

Updated: January. 2010. POCKET PLACEMENT (FROM CF) Measure from CF across to closer side edge of pocket.com POCKET OPENING PLACEMENT (FROM HPS) Measure from HPS down to top edge of pocket.apparelco. 72 .www.

2010 73 . Updated: January.www. POCKET ZIPPER LENGTH KNITTED BOTTOMS Waist (Relaxed) Measure from side to side along the middle of the waistband without applying pressure.com FRONT ZIPPER LENGTH Measure from top teeth of zipper to the bottom edge of zipper.apparelco.

apparelco. SEAT FROM CROTCH Measure specified distance from crotch.www. 74 . Measure from side to side along the middle of the waistband. 2010.com WAIST (STRETCHED) Extend waistband just enough to remove all gathering. WAISTBAND HEIGHT Measured from the waistband joining seam to the top of waistband. measure straight from side seam to side seam . Updated: January.

www. BACK RISE Measured from below waist band to crotch along the natural counter of back seam. * Measure from top of waist band if specified. Measure straight from left SS marked point to CF marked point to right SS marked point. *Measure from top of waist band if buyer required. Updated: January. FRONT RISE Measured from below waistband to crotch along the natural counter of front seam. 2010 75 .apparelco. Mark distance from top of waistband at CF and both side seams.com SEAT (FROM WAIST BAND) / HIGH HIP Measured specified distance down from top of waistband or up from crotch point as specified.

KNEE (AT SPECIFIED) Measure specified point from crotch towards bottom.apparelco.com THIGH Measured 1” below crotch from inseam joining seam across to the out side of leg parallel to bottom edge of leg opening. Updated: January. Measure the fold line parallel to bottom. 76 .www. Measure the marked line parallel to bottom. 2010. KNEE (AT ½) Fold the leg so that bottom is touching crotch.

Measure from side to side straight across the elastic. Updated: January. ELASTIC LEG OPENING (STRETCHED) Stretch just enough to remove all gathering. ELASTIC LEG OPENING (RELAXED) Measure from side to side straight across the bottom edge without applying pressure.www.com BOTTOM OPENING With the garment lying flat. measure straight across from side to side at the leg opening edge. 2010 77 .apparelco.

OUT SEAM Measure along side seam from below the waistband to the bottom of leg. *Include waistband if specified. BOTTOM HEM TRIM HEIGHT Measure from the bottom edge of the trim to the top edge of the trim.apparelco.com INSEAM Measure from crotch to bottom edge of hem. 2010. 78 . Updated: January.www.

2010 79 . POCKET OPENING Measure pocket opening seam to seam.apparelco.com FRONT POCKET PLACEMENT (FROM WAIST BAND) Measure straight from top of waistband down to top of pocket opening. Updated: January. POCKET BAG WIDTH Take widest point of pocket bag and measure across from stitch line to stitch line.www.

www. FLY LENGTH Measured straight from top of waistband to bottom of fly Updated: January. ZIPPER LENGTH Measure from outside edge of zipper stopper to outside edge of zipper slider. 80 . 2010.apparelco.com FRONT POCKET BAG LENGTH Measure pocket bag length from stitch line to stitch line.

Purpose of establishing guidelines is to standardize defects recording on inspection reports. SLUB KNOT SNAG 107 – MISPICK / DOUBLE PICKS OR ENDS This category is used when inspecting woven fabric. All snags should be considered defective.com DEFECTS CLASSIFICATION (GENERIC) Matrix Sourcing has established its own defects classification guidelines. so that everyone at Matrix Sourcing is aware about the nature of defect by looking at inspection reports. or where two yarn ends are tied together. 2010 81 .apparelco.www. Updated: January. SNAG: A pulled thread in the fabric. 106 – SLUB / KNOT / SNAG SLUB / KNOT: Thick uneven spot(s) in the fabric caused by lint or small lengths of yarn adhering to it. General classification guidelines are as under. FABRIC DEFECTS This category should be used for defects found within the fabrics used to make a garment. All QC’s are bound to follow these guidelines while inspecting garments and making reports. Furthermore process of data generation and its analysis is expedited.

2010. Finishing streaks. texture. Updated: January. feel etc.apparelco.com 108 – COLOR CONTAMINATION • • A transfer of color from one fabric to another. That is different from the approved fabric or with discrepancies between garment.www. Shading that can be seen during visual inspection should be viewed with light box. 109 . If shading is visible under CWF lighting or daylight. product should be considered defective. All bleeding and color migration should be considered defective. 82 .SHADING • • • • Noticeable color difference between the same color. Panel-Panel. 112 – FABRIC PERFORMANCE This includes appearance. GMT-GMT Noticeable color difference between the same color.

Contamination greater than ¼” (0.apparelco.www. All fabric runs should be considered defective.6cm) in non critical area should be considered defective. All fabric holes should be considered defective 114 – FABRIC RUN • A break in the yarn of a fabric that causes the stitch to run along the needle line or a void caused by a missing warp yarn. • Updated: January.3cm) or greater in a critical area of a garment.com 113 – FABRIC HOLE • • Includes holes in the fabric and needle holes. • 115 – YARN CONTAMINATION • • Foreign fibers or soil knitted into the fabric. Contamination which is a 1/8” (0. which can be easily seen should be considered defective. 2010 83 .

2010.www. 199 – MISCELLANEOUS FABRIC DEFECTS • This code includes all other fabric defects that are not captured by the previous fabric codes.com 111 – YELLOWING OF FABRIC • • This is a phenomenon which causes light colored fabric to yellow over time.apparelco. 84 . Updated: January. All yellowing should be considered defective.

203 – OPEN / DELAMINATED SEAM • • • A seam which appears to be open is called open seam.com CONSTRUCTION & STITCHING DEFECTS This category should be used for defects made by operations performed on a garment that brings together different materials. Frayed seam is seam with yarn ends. A seam that starts to delaminate from edges is called delaminated seam.www. 202 – RAW EDGE / FRAYED SEAM • • • Raw edge is slipping or raveling edges.apparelco. Updated: January. 201 – BROKEN / DROP / SKIP STITCH • Broken / drop / skip stitch is damaged or irregularities along the stitch line. 2010 85 . Any frayed seam that affects the appearance and function of the garment should be considered defective. All open and delaminated seams should be considered as defective.

or loose. Any puckering that affects appearance and function of the garment should be considered defective.www. 2010.com 204 – OVERRUN STITCH • Overrun stitch is any stitching on a seam or hem that has overrun into the garment. Updated: January. or into an area that is not supposed to be stitched. 86 . not straight. • 206 – UNEVEN / WAVY STITCHING • • Stitching that is wavy. 208 – PUCKERING / PLEATING • • Undesirable uneven surface or gathering of fabric on a garment.apparelco. Any overrun stitch that affect the appearance or function of the garment should be considered defective. When the stitching affects the garment appearance or function it should be considered defective.

2010 87 . high/low pocket or shoulder.com 211 – TWISTED / ROPING / UNEVEN HEM • Twisted / Roping describes hem or seam that does not lie flat and has a twisted appearance. incorrect placement etc.www. garment has “crew” neck. • • • • Roping Twisted Uneven hem 216 – CONSTRUCTION NOT AS SPECIFIED • When the construction of a garment differs from given specifications i. • Updated: January. Any deviation from construction specification should be considered defective.apparelco. the garment should be considered defective.e specification request “v” neck. Any unevenness that affects the garments appearance may be a reason for considering garment defective. Any twisted / roping that affects appearance and function of the garment should be considered defective. Uneven hem refers to wide and narrow or uneven hem. When viewing a garment keep its shoulders even or pant leg flat. If the hem is exposed from opposite side of the garment around the bottom hem or leg opening. incorrect color combination.

88 . Defects that are not covered by previous construction codes.com 299 – MISCELLANEOUS CONSTRUCTION DEFECT • • Defects that are not captured by previous construction codes.www. 2010. that appear appearance and performance of the garment should be considered defective. Updated: January.apparelco.

zipper puller. etc. but may still function below the expected level are called broken trims. Trim components that are not properly secured to garment. i. incorrect color. faulty zippers. 301 – TRIM BROKEN / INOPERABLE / INSECURE • Trim components that have been damaged. missing trim item etc Any deviation from specification that was not approved by the appropriate stakeholders prior to production should be considered defective.e. incorrect size. All broken / inoperable / insecure trim items should be considered defective. pullers.apparelco. • • • 305 – TRIM NOT AS SPECIFIED • When a trim item differs from specifications i. damaged drawcord etc.com TRIMS DEFECTS This category should be used for defects in assemblies / sub-components that are not fabric materials that may or may not serve a mechanical function or operation in a garment. i.www. broken snap. Trim components that do not function properly are called inoperable trims. 2010 89 .e. • Updated: January.e. snaps.

com 306 – TRIM BLEEDING / COLOR MIGRATION • • Transferring of trim color onto another component or onto the fabric of the garment. • Updated: January.apparelco. 90 . Defects that are not covered by previous codes that would affect the performance or appearance of the garment should be considered defective. 390 – MISCELLANEOUS TRIM DEFECTS • Other defects pertaining to a trim item that are not captured by previous codes but affects the trim. 2010.www. All trim bleeding and color migration should be considered defective.

embroidery etc. 401 – UNRAVELLING EMBELLISHMENT • • Embroidery that has started to unravel i. Unraveling threads in the embroidery should be considered defective.apparelco.e. All heat transfers / appliques / patches where the embellishment has begun to peel from the garment or delaminate from itself should be considered defective. When layers of a patch or heat transfer separates from itself it is called delamination. thread hanging from embroidery. that is of a decorative nature. • • Updated: January.www. graphic. 2010 91 .com EMBELLISHMENTS DEFECTS • This category should be used for defects related to application of an image. 402 – PEELING / DELAMINATION • Peeling is patches or heat transfers where the embellishment has begun to peel from the garment or the layer.

or too much ink where the ink builds up is too heavy often resulting in a blurry print or varying color intensity within a heat transfer.com 403 – POOR COVERAGE / REGISTERATION / CRACKING x Poor coverage is prints with light ink coverage resulting in the fabric color bleeding through the print.apparelco. • Updated: January. • Poor registration is poorly aligned image where details appear out of place.www. All excess tear away backing (used for embroideries and other applications) not removed from garments should be considered defective. • Cracking is link that is cracked or cracks when garment is stretched. 92 . 410 – IMPROPER BACKING REMOVAL • Excess backing used in the embroidery and other applications that are not properly removed prior to packing. 2010.

Any embellishment that differs from specifications but not approved by appropriate stakeholders prior to production should be considered defective.www. Approved standard may be needed.e.com 412 – HOOP / PLATE / SCREEN MARK • • • • Hoop marks appear as light ring around embroidery.apparelco. Screen marks appear as two lines in the fabric along the edge of the print. 2010 93 . wrong placement etc. 415 – EMBELLISHMENT NOT AS SPECIFIED • When an embellishment differs from the specifications i. missing embellishment. incorrect color. • Updated: January. • 416 – EMB BLEEDING / COLOR MIGRARTION • The transfer of dye from embellishment onto fabric of garment or other colors within embellishment. It should be compared with the approved standard if available. Hoop / plate / screen marks effecting the overall appearance of the garment could be considered defective. Plate marks appear as a light area around heat transfers. incorrect size. All embellishment bleeding or color migration onto the garment or other colors within embellishment should be considered defective.

94 .www. Any defect pertaining to embellishments that are not covered by previous codes. • Updated: January. that affects appearance of the garment should be considered defective.apparelco.com 499 – MISCELLANEOUS EMBELLISHMENT DEFECT • Embellishment defects that are not covered by the previous codes but affects embellishment of a garment. 2010.

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LABELING DEFECTS
This category should be used when defects are related to labels that are functional and not decorative in nature e.g. care and content label, PO ID, Corporate loop label etc.

501- MISSING / INCORRECT / INCOMPLETE LABEL
• • • • Missing label is when a label in not applied. Incorrect label is when label doesn’t match approved standard. Incomplete label is when a part of label is missing. Missing / incorrect / incomplete labels are considered as defective.

502 – PEELING / CRACKING
• • • • Peeling is when a label peeling away from a garment. Cracking label is label / heat transfer that cracks on stretching. All labels must be securely attached. Any peeling should be considered defective. Any cracking should be considered defective. Heat transfers can be tested for cracking using Nike’s heat transfer stretch standards.

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503 – COLOR BLEEDING / MIGRATION / SHADING
• Labels with visual appearance of color bleeding, color migration or shading onto garment or itself. Any bleeding / color migration or shading of heat transfer / label should be considered defective.

590 – MISCELLANEOUS LABELING DEFECT
• • Any labeling issue not captured by the previous labeling defect codes. Any labeling defect that affects the appearance, function and salability of the garment should be considered defective.

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CLEANLINESS / APPEARANCE
• This category is used when any foreign contaminant or substance is found on a garment or in its packaging.

601 - SOIL
• Soiling is a generic term used to describe any type of stain caused by dirt, dust, soil, oil, grease marks, ink smears etc. Any soil that affects appearance of a garment shall be considered defective.

603 – UNATTACHED / UNTRIMMED THREAD
• Threads that have been trimmed but not removed from garments are called unattached threads. Threads that were not trimmed from garments are called untrimmed threads.

604 – FOREIGN OBJECTS / INSPECTION STICKERS
• Any foreign object left on the garment that should have been removed prior to packaging i.e. stickers, melted plastic, sand, stone, etc. All foreign objects that is found on garment should be considered defective. If the sticker is small and in an inconspicuous place and doesn’t cause any stain or damage to the garment when removed, it will not be considered as defective.

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98 . color change.www. 2010. schorching etc.apparelco. Pressing / heat defects that affects appearance and salability of garment should be considered defective. Any defect that affects appearance and cleanliness of the garment should be considered defective.com 605 – PRESSING / HEAT DEFECTS • • Affects from pressing / heat such as shine. • Updated: January. 690 – MISCELLANEOUS CLEANLINESS DEFECTS • Other cleanliness / appearance defects that are not captured by previous cleanliness defect codes.

apparelco. 2010 99 .e. 703 – PRODUCT IN CARTON INCORRECT • Mixed sizes in same carton. incorrect carton count. • 704 – POLYBAG NOT AS SPECIFIED • Incorrect polybag size. Polybags that are not to specification should be considered defective and repackaged. pack quantities or methods of packaging.com PACKAGING DEFECTS • This category should be used when discrepancies are found in carton labeling information. missing / incorrect recycle info. ventilation holes. incorrect material etc. incorrect style / size / color etc.www. • Polybag too small Polybag too big Polybag misprinted Updated: January. mixed sizes within same garment i. warmup’s. Any mis-packed cartons should be considered defective and replaced.

100 . Updated: January. 2010. Any defect that affect accuracy of packaging should be considered defective. 799 – MISCELLANEOUS PACKAGING • • Includes other packaging defects that are not captured by previous packaging codes.www. hangtags. price tickets.apparelco. hangtags bleeding etc.com 706 – STICKERS / HANGTAGS / CARTON LABELS • Missing / incorrect carton labels. UPC labels.

moustaches etc of garment. 2010 101 . Updated: January.apparelco. 903 – SAND BLAST(uneven / missing / incorrect) x Includes all defects related with sand blast of a product.com WASHING DEFECTS (WOVENS) This category should be used when discripancies are found in washing of garment.www. 902 – GRINDING / RIPPING(uneven / missing / incorrect) x Includes defects related with grinding and ripping of a product. spray effect. 901 – BRUSHING / SPRAY EFFECT / MOUSTACHES x Includes non-conformances related to brushing.

Any defect that affect accuracy of washing should be considered defective. Updated: January.com 904 – IMPROPER SELVAGE All defects related to selvage are included in this category. 905 – WASHING NOT AS SPECIFIED This category should be used when washing of a product is not upto standards. 999 – MISCELLANEOUS WASHING DEFECTS • • Includes other washing defects that are not captured by previous wash defect codes. 2010. Any deviation from wash specification should be considered defective.www.apparelco. 102 .

Updated: January. Matrix has worked with its vendors to develop metal detection procedures as per customer’s requirements. functional cords and decorative cords are considered as an important element of product safety. Some customers prefer not to use drawstrings on infants and toddler product or may have exposed drawcord length requirements for different product categories. To manufacture garment and implement product safety measures customer product safety protocol is followed. The MD equipment must be calibrated before use and is also calibrated by third party after a specific time period given by customer. Monthly PS audits are conducted at vendor premises to check compliance with procedures. 2010 103 . Normally customers require conveyer detector and hand held metal detector as MD equipment. Special attention is given to Kids category because any small part.com PRODUCT SAFETY OVERVIEW Product safety is basic requirement for some customers of Matrix. METAL DETECTION Some customers and destinations (Japan) have requirement of passing products or items through metal detector machines. Metal detection reports are maintained as per procedures outlined by customers. Draw card. snaps etc may affect the child during use and it may cause minor / serious injury or it may cause death.apparelco. Matrix PS analyst ensures that following basic product safety elements are met as per buyers requirement. Matrix Sourcing and vendor works together to make sure product safety requirements are met. x x x x x x x x Drawcord Metal Detection Metal contamination prevention Sharp points Small parts Torque and tension Flammability Neck stretch DRAWCORD Drawstrings. Matrix PS analyst is involved in development process and he must assure that cords are exactly used and applied as per customer safety protocol.www. PS analyst ensures that the MD premises are designed and maintained as per customer standards.

Updated: January. sewing. scissors. machine parts etc. nails.com METAL CONTAMINATION PREVENTION Metal contamination prevention is a system of control for preventing any metal contamination in a product.apparelco. Record of metallic tools and needles should be maintained as per customer requirement. SHARP POINTS Sharp points on product may result in injury or discomfort to user. hand sewing and tag gun needles should be controlled. Follow needle replacement procedure set by buyer. PS Analyst closely monitors MCP process at factory and conduct monthly system audit to assure that all MCP requirements are met. Matrix PS analyst identifies small parts during garment engineering process and ensures testing and elimination of sharp points as per customer product safety protocol. SMALL PARTS Any small part that can detach from garment contains risk of choking or suffocation if swallowed by a child. x x x x Embroidery. clippers. Control metallic tools and components e. Suppliers may have additional procedures and controls to accompany the requirements of this procedure.www.g. 2010. 104 . All broken needle fragments should be located. Matrix PS analyst is responsible to identify and test small parts as per customer product safety protocol. Sharp points are not acceptable by some customers and must be eliminated. Some important requirements are as under. This procedure applies to all areas of production environment including sample rooms.

FLAMMABILITY Some customers require flammability testing on garments intended to be used as children’s sleepwear. The criteria followed for flammability testing is as per customer safety protocol. Negative neck stretch on kids garment may also cause suffocation to child. PRODUCT SAFETY AUDITS Matrix PS analyst conducts evaluation audits in factories where product safety procedures have been implemented. PS analyst identifies components to be tested during product development / engineering process. inspection equipment and method may vary from customer to customer therefore it is always recommended to consult customer safety protocol for neck stretch procedures. Corrective action review audit is also conducted on completion of timeline. Any non conformance observed during audit is recorded and factory is asked to provide time bounded corrective action plan for that non conformance.com TORQUE AND TENSION Some customers have established requirements for Torque (twist) and Tension (pull) testing to ensure that components sustain desired force (twist or pull) during its use. Updated: January. 2010 105 . Matrix PS analyst identifies styles to be tested during development process and ensures that flammability requirements set by customer are properly followed and implemented. Minimum neck stretch on negative side may not fit naturally on human body and thus becomes difficult to wear. Minimum neck stretch standards.www. Customer’s safety protocol must be consulted for test criteria and equipment.apparelco. All product safety audits are conducted as per customer desire. This evaluation is conducted once every month as per customer requirement. Additionally customer may conduct its own evaluation audit once every six months to ensure factory compliance with their procedures. NECK STRETCH Minimum neck stretch is basic requirement for most of the customers.

apparelco. SOP’s for production operations displayed in all concerned departments and followed. Handling and isolation of WIP (work in process) / inventory control. Note: System audit format is attached in appendix E. critical operation display in front of sewing operators.com SYSTEM AUDIT Matrix quality assurance department conducts system audit in all areas of production. Problematic machines flagged and tools controlled. Quality standards and expectations for all key areas and operations displayed in concerned department e. Needle replacement policy and product safety procedures. Factory must mention timeline and name of responsible person on corrective action plan. Correct use of inspection methods in all areas of production. Department targets and key reports displayed and shared down the level. 106 . work area temperature etc.www. lighting standards. Matrix also asks for corrective action plan for all non-conformances observed during system audit. x x x x x x x x x System audits are conducted on regular basis and audit findings are discussed with all concerned personnel. Some key areas monitored during system audit are: x Workspace conditions in all production areas e. The purpose of system audit is to assure that the quality systems in all production areas are not violated. 2010. Availability of reference samples in all production areas.g Embellishment standards display. Maintainance of machines and preventive maintainance time.g cleanliness of workstations. Updated: January. etc.

Matrix has always desired improvements in the skills of employees therefore conducting training sessions is a norm at Matrix..apparelco. so that effectiveness of these training sessions is assured and can be later used as a tool to evaluate employees. Note: Training calendar is attached in appendix F. Case study analysis. Updated: January. Report making and entries on portal database. x x x x x x x x x Quality Introduction. A training calendar is distributed to all concerned staff before starting these sessions. Training sessions are followed by a series of written and practical evaluation tests. The objective of training sessions is to keep everyone well versed with current quality practices and expectations. The key topics of training are mentioned below.com TRAINING (GENERIC) Training plays a vital role in improving knowledge and skills of any human being.www. Defects Identification and classification. Final audit procedures. These training sessions are designed considering employee needs. Customer specific training etc. Garment Measurement procedures. 2010 107 . Job description. Training sessions conducted by Matrix are not only limited to its employees but also to vendor concerned personnel. current industry requirements and customer expectations. Clockwise garment Inspection.

Minimizing our impact on the environment. benefits. CHILD LABOR The contractor / vendor does not employ any person below the age of 18 or age defined by labor law. honesty and mutual respect.apparelco. bonded or otherwise. 2010. age or sexual orient ation.prison. teamwork. Updated: January. we are driven to do not only what is required by law. Contractors must train employees on their rights and obligations as defined by this Code and applicable local laws. and dedicated to equal opportunity for each individual. 2. Decisions on hiring. 4. There shall be no discrimination based on race. Management practices that respect the rights of all employees. While these principles establish the spirit of our partnerships. creed. The core standards are set forth below. Matrix Sourcing partners with contractors / vendors who share our commitment to best practices and continuous improvement in: 1 .com MATRIX CODE OF CONDUCT Matrix Sourcing is determined to build business with all partners based on. 3. 108 . gender. At every step of our business process. Contractors must recognize the dignity of each employee. advancement. religious or political beliefs. including the right to free association and collective bargaining. salary. Promoting the health and well-being of all employees. and the right to a work place free of harassment. marital or maternity status.www. At the core of the Matrix Sourcing corporate ethic is the belief that we are a company comprised of many different kinds of people. We expect our business partners to do the same. Wherever Matrix operates around the globe we are guided by this Code of Conduct and we bind our contractors / vendors to these principles. termination or retirement must be based solely on the employee's ability to do the job. FORCED LABOR The contractor / vendor does not use forced labor in any form -. Providing a safe and healthy work place. We expect all of our business partners to operate on the same principles. trust. we also bind our partners to specific standards of conduct. but what is expected of a leader. indentured. appreciating individual diversity. abuse or corporal punishment.

agrees to make these documents available for Matrix and agrees to submit to inspections with or without prior notice.apparelco. whichever is higher. provides each employee a clear. BENEFITS The contractor provides each employee all legally mandated benefits.com COMPENSATION The contractor provides each employee at least the minimum wage. and on a regularly scheduled basis provides one day off in seven. written accounting for every pay period. SAFETY AND HEALTH (ES&H) The contractor has written environmental. and does not deduct from employee pay for disciplinary infractions. and implements a system to minimize negative impacts on the environment. reduce work-related injury and illness..www.. 2010 109 . DOCUMENTATION AND INSPECTION The contractor / vendor maintains on file all documentation needed to demonstrate compliance with this Code of Conduct and required laws. or the prevailing industry wage. HOURS OF WORK/OVERTIME The contractor complies with legally mandated work hours. and promote the general health of employees. ENVIRONMENT. Nike Code of Conduct Updated: January. and complies with local overtime limits. informs each employee at the time of hiring if mandatory overtime is a condition of employment. uses overtime only when each employee is fully compensated according to local law. safety and health policies and standards.

Meals from vendor are not to be eaten unless under special circumstances.apparelco. 2010. supervisors and other personnel are to be treated with respect and never to be abused. avail your lunch break. Samples are not to be taken for personal use from vendor without payment. for example late night inspections. 110 . Matrix employees must abide by the following ethical rules: x x x x x x Vendor workers. In normal circumstances.com EMPLOYEES ETHICAL CODE As part of a business based on trust. Gifts/special favors are never to be accepted. Decisions are made professionally & purely on merit. Updated: January. integrity and values.www. Any unjustified influence is reported to QC Manager.

sign and date this page and return it to Matrix representative.com ACKNOWLEDGEMENT AND CONTINUING PRODUCT GUARANTY The modules. 2010 111 .www. processing. have been established by Matrix to communicate Matrix quality standards and expectations to all vendors and employees. By returning this acknowledgement. or materials used in production of the productwill occur without prior written approval from Matrix. you declare that you have received the manual and that you understand Matrix standards and expectations regarding manufacturing consistent high quality product. The signed acknowledgement is also your commitement and guaranty that once Matrix approves the product for production / shipping. which make up the Matrix Quality Manual.apparelco. no change in design. manufacturing location. After receiving this manual. _______________________________ DATE _________________________ Supplier Name _________________________ Supplier Address ______________________________ Signature supplier designated official _________________________ Signature Matrix representative This Matrix Quality Manual is the confidential property of Matrix Sourcing and is not to be copied or reproduced without written consent of Matrix Sourcing. Updated: January. This guranty is continuing guranty that applies to all products and shipments shipped on behalf of Matrix by this company or any of its subsidiaries or other associated companies.

112 .xls Updated: January.com MANUAL APPENDIX LIST (A THROUGH F) Appendix A: INSPECTION REPORT (KNITS) Inspection Report (Knit Report).www. 2010.xls Appendix B: INSPECTION REPORT (WOVENS) Woven Report.xls Appendix F: MATRIX TRAINING CALENDAR training calender matrix.xls Appendix C: INSPECTION REPORT (SWEATERS) Inspection Report Sweaters.JPG Appendix E: MATRIX SYSTEM AUDIT FORM System Audit form.xls Appendix D: CARGO RELEASE FORM cargo release.apparelco.

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