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Volume 1, Issue 1
Paper Model Magazine
Model Kit Reviews
• Detail Review of Dornier Do 26 • New Release of Papermodels
Passengers on Board of the TS Olmpia
From Joachim Frerichs In this article Joachim Frerichs shows how he brought life on board of the TS Olympia by designing and modeling Passenger for on board life.
Building of the interior of the Cap Arcona
by Dr. Ullrich Boehme In this interesting article Dr. Boehme describes how he modified the HMV design to be able to show the interior after the completion of the model by designing removable decks
Inside this issue: Oceanic from 3 Wilhelmhavener Modellbaubogen Realism and Esthetic in Papermodeling Lighthouse Alte Liebe Schreiber Verlag Proffessional Finish of Top Models Roundtrip around the Bismarck 6
Construction Card of Model Cardmodels Ship more with than a length 2.5 mof inmore length than 2.5 m
14 By Hans Dieter Brinkmeyer Have you ever wondered how large a cardmodel can be built? Mr. Brinkmeyer is making a scratch with a length of more than 2.5. That Have you build ever wondered how large a scratch build with a is a big ship. Construction challenges haveof tomore be addressed to make a feasible model. Read more on Page length than 2.5 m. That’s a this big ship. Construction
By Hans Dieter Brinkmeyer challenges have to be addressed to make it feasible to build such a model
Construction of 18 Cardmodels more than 2.5 m Interior of the Cap Arcona from HMV 23
Proffessional Finish of Top Ship Models
Hermann Boeck described interested methods of upgrading models to a top professional quality. Hermann Boeck build professional and competes international in scale modeling
German Version will be soon available at : Deutsche Version gibt es In Kuerze bei:
Building the Monte 27 Rossa from Passat Verlag Notre Dame from Instant Durable 36
The Transatlantic Paper Model Magazine
Table of Content
Editoral Oceanic - Wihelmshavener Verlag Realism and Esthetic in Papermodeling TS Olympia Lighthouse “Alte Liebe” Proffessional Finish of Top Ship Models Trip around the Bismarck Construction of Cardmodels of 2.5m or Construction of Interior Cap Arcona Building of the Monte Rossa Notre Dame from Instant Durable Detail Model Kit Review New Model Reviews Page 3 Page 3 - 5 Page 6 - 7 Page 8 - 12 Page 12 - 13 Page 14-16 Page 16-17 Page 18-22 Page 23-26 Page 27-35 Page 36-43 Page 44 Page 45-47
This is the first issue of or Paper Model Magazine. We have founded the magazine to give the Paper Modelers worldwide a printed publication about Paper Modeling and to provide a bridge from the new to the old world so to speak. Paper modeling is really originated from Europe and particular very popular in Germany and Poland. Of course this is a relative statement and it finds in validity in relation to Paper Modeling in North America. Here Paper Modeling is still in its infant stages and in order to promote it here we need support and exchange of knowledge with Europe. On the other hand the few Paper Modelers we have come up with particular ways of approaching the hobby, which can be very interesting for our European friends. Therefore we had the idea to makes this magazine available in German and English Language so we can establish a forum of exchange, thus the name Transatlantic Paper Model Magazine. Our aim is to provide an esthetic magazine , in depth product reviews, basic and advanced knowledge and keep you informed about what ‘s going on in Paper Modeling. The idea was born in 2004 and did get in contact with modelers particular in Germany to seek help or just the permission to publish their interesting articles. The magazine was to be published in 2004. Now we are already in the year 2005 and I finally be able to release the first edition. The delay was mostly caused by my new venture Lighthouse Model Art and the challenges arising out of developing and managing an internet store. In Germany we have the saying “what long takes is worthwhile” and I hope it really is. The most important aspect for the future of this magazine is your participation. This edition is still very much centered around ship models as this is my preference and I did not have any contribution in Planes or Tanks, etc. But in order to make this magazine for everybody we will have to truly have all aspects of models represented. I also very much looking forward to any suggestion, critique in regards to this magazine. This is my first try and it is certainly not perfect. I am mostly struggling with the translation of the mostly German sources. As English is not my mother tongue it is not always easy to find the specific terms in English and we do not have a proof reading team yet. We looking for help on all levels, articles, proofreading etc. We will welcome interested Editors and Writers. We encourage our readers to participate in this magazine to make it truly a forum of exchange internationally. therefore seeking Editors and Writers to make it possible that this magazine will be available frequently and we can cover all areas of the magazine. We welcome and critique and suggestion and we hope that that like our magazine Yours
Free Catalog Download at www.lighthousemodelart.com
Volume 1, Issue 1
Oceanic - Wilhelmshavener ModellbaubogenModellbaubogen Oceanic - Wilhelmshavener
In 1967 the Suez Channel was closed as a result of the Israel-Arabic conflict and a need arose for large ocean going tugs to assist big tankers around the cape of Good Hope. The Oceanic and Artic were built in Bremerhaven. Both ships have a wide operation radius, based on its bunkers, which carry enough material to last for 20000 nautical miles. The crew consists of 26 man. In 1990 the Oceanic was taken out of service as the demand for these ships was in decline. At the end of the nineties the Oceanic was taken back in service because the increased traffic in the German Bucht increased the risk of collisions and in such an event a strong salvage tug should be available stationed in reasonable distance. As result the Oceanic was stationed before Helgoland to be available for such emergencies.
Building the Model
I started with the spot gluing the base plate on the thick cardboard included in the kit. I laminate all bulkheads with 0.2 mm cardboard and cut off all gluing flaps. The added thickness provided enough stability so
In 1967 the Suez Channel was closed as a result of the Israel-Arabic conflict and a need arose for large ocean going tugs to assist big tankers around the cape of Good Hope. The Oceanic and Artic were built in Bremerhaven. Both ships have a wide operation radius, based on
The Transatlantic Paper Model Magazine
lems. Before attaching the hull the anchor pockets have to be made and glued from the back in the cutout. This is part 49 and the text instruction makes a note of it. If you just build by the diagram you can easily miss it. There is a problem also with the transversal bulkhead as it is in the way of part 49, which is an angle to the transversal bulkhead. I had to cut out a hole in the bulkhead to make room for the anchor pocket. The stripe leading two third around the middle of the hull has to be double with paper and it is very important to
there is no need for gluing flaps. It also gives a straighter line particular at the longitudinal bulkhead as the folding of gluing flaps alternately back and front have the tendency of wrapping. I tried to cut all bulkheads little shorter which I achieved by cutting not on but directly below the top line. All bulkheads are placed with the printed side to the stern according the instruction. Although it turns out that part 11 and 6 should be placed the opposite way. The slits have to be cut thicker to accommodate the thicker bulkhead. Next the deck 15 is attached, which I laminated with the same thickness. Part 18 a and 19 a should be placed before the part 17 complex, as it is otherwise very difficult to place it in. I did cut out all doors and doubled it with scrap paper of the kit. I also color the cut lines with an aquarelle pencils to eliminate the white look. All railings were cut off and replaced with a photo etch railing set from Saemann Aetztechnik. Part 16 was required 5 times, but was
only four times included in the kit. I had to scan the kit and reprint a copy to get my fifth part. Next were the two decks 21 and 22, which did not cause any prob-
color the cutting edges black, as they are highly visible. The assembly of the superstructure went relative easy and no problems were encountered. All
Nevertheless it is still challenging to create a clear and clean cut with a part like this as it very small. e. h and I provided problems because I did cut of the railing and replaced with photo etch parts. This reduced the stability of the parts and it was not easy to fit the railing around the base plate. The part had to be double and I applied a satin coat of Humbrol to increase the stability of the part before cutting. It did not take too long time to build this model and it a very interesting addition to a ship model collection. Part 51A as part of 51 had to be cut out as a railing from paper. The podest 39 d. Issue 1 Page 5 stairs and railings were replaced with a photo etch set. The parts of the smoke stag 38 i and j should be colored black on the white side on the back and the cutting edges.Volume 1. .
We all choose a particular category of scale modeling which is paper modeling. All not very realistic. Although paper models are created in a particular scale really like all models from an engineering standpoint. Let’s take some examples to illustrate this: One most of the ship builders know is the practice of doubling a door on normal paper thickness of the model sheet. all create limitations to the reality of a model. It certainly provides more tolerance for different approaches and even would tolerate things like off color etc. You will be surprised how wide this boards would be. Therefore I am wondering if the objective of Realism is really a worthwhile and achievable goal.. although there are other ones like plastic modeling or wood modeling etc. Doubling it brings it to 0. Nevertheless benchmark of any models is its measuring up to the original. This dimension can not be realistically be perceived by the human eye. Paper Models always include an artistic element. material etc. And we all well aware of the arguments whether a particular parts of a model was original on this position or was on this position only at a particular time with a particular color. Goal of Scale modeling is to create a model of an original into scale. If it would be possible to use such a thin paper and glue a door on the wall with this thickness. The designer at one point has to leave the technical field and starts illustrating and coloring. as long they are not an accident but the deliberate attempt to create another look at the original. which all claim to be more accurate to the original. Another good examples are the drawing of the wood board on the deck.. This is an aspect of paper modeling that is unique to it an can not be found in any other scale . which what would hap- Example 1: Deck coloring of the HMV Bismarck in construction Paper Modeling is a form of Scale modeling and does share therefore some commonalities with other branches of this hobby.2 mm. Going back to the example of the door: A door with a more realistic dimension of a thickness let’s say of 4 mm relates into a thickness in the model of 0. It become quite clear that the function of the model is not be precise in respect to measuring single dimension but to depict a visual images. wood or other material. I never liked their looks as much as paper models. Would I want to miss them. That is a thick door and as we can see entirely unrealistic. It allows more flexibility in the design by creating an certain image but not real object. So why to the choose paper modeling beside its practical reasons ? I think Realism is important but not the only goal. So should I not double it ? Even if I do not laminate the doors it will still mean a door with 50 mm thickness. Did you ever measure one calculate to its size in the original. Models are for me a esthetic image of the original and although I like as much details as possible it is for me not for the reason of being more precise to the original but for the esthetic that all this little parts and details create. which will look more realistic to us. But why doubling the door makes it still more realistic? When you look at a paper models you will look at lot of parts with dimension in the mm area or much lower up to the size of the paper thickness. I suggest the paradigm of a 3 D images as a better objective for the approach of Paper Model Design. but it creates an image. The reality of the original has to be seen always in the context of time.4 mm. Not everybody might agree with me on this standpoint. In a 1:250 scale it means that the thickness of this door now is 0. We all know that this is never perfect and scale. compared to an image that is more real. we would not perceive it as realistic as the door which double laminated to proportions clearly to scale. I have looked at lot of different models made from plastic.4 mm x 250 = 100 mm.016 mm. To calculate this into reality. Really totally unrealistic. Undeclared goal of any models it to create a models that as close as possible depict the real object. which is around 0.Page 6 The Transatlantic Paper Model Magazine Realism and Esthetic in Paper Modeling modeling branch. Any model is for me an image of the original and any image is not a true copy of the original but something that gives us a feeling about the object and as we can see on the different approaches the images will be very different. but this view has its merits. The models are more a realistic 3 D painting of the original as anything else.
This means that the design criteria will move from creating a realistic model to an realistic image of course in real 3 D. As soon as we perceive an image out of proportion we have crossed the line and we have failed to serve the ultimate goal. better and more esthetic models. Window an door frame thicknesses on the Example of the MS Wilhelmshaven .02 mm this around 10 % of the thickness of the paper of most kits. Nevertheless there is a fine line as long we achieve a more realistic image we are doing the right thing. On the other hand this provides us with more freedom to create. That is my part. We create models not for the purpose of measuring but for looking at it. What I was always missing was the three dimensional look of the window frame an the ledge. In real life you can see on the ship the three dimensional character of the window. The Page 7 useless discussion whether something is on the left or the right I leave to others. If you use it on too small parts it is counterproductive and instead of creating more realistic models we will only achieve the opposite. I have made it a habit to cut them out and clue transparent foil behind them to make them look more realistic. What conclusions we can draw from it ? First of all we have to understand that the scale concept is only valid up to certain dimension. As a modeler this will create a new freedom for me. I was estimating the frame thickness of the window in reality to around maximum 5 mm. It also should teach us more tolerance to designer who create models with color or other element that we might reject us not realistic.Volume 1. which would provide a more three dimensional look. But this should have conclusion for paper model designer who should rethink their strategy and approach to the design of models. Although it will be easier to make just everything to scale it might not do justice to the human vision. A models which shows the three dimensional character of the window will create a more realistic image to our eye although this realism is created by a part not made to scale. True to the paradigm of realism this would mean that I would create a window entirely out of scale. Let’s take as examples the windows on a ship. Issue 1 pen if the are drawn in the real size ? No definitely not. I did not pursue this further because my calculations revealed that the paper thickness for the window cut out should be 0. At first I was considering whether I should laminate the windows from behind to create a thicker cut out. But this holds only true on the first look. So in the future my main objective in building models will be to create realistic and esthetic images to the eyes. What we want from a scale models is a realistic and to scale visual representation of the model.
Halifax. The Olympia did have three pools and room for 1030 passenger after the modification. which could detail to turbine ship OLYMPIA as a card model. chairs as well a sun chairs in the scale of 1:250 with simple tools available to me. Einleitung This presentation is dealing with the history of the turbine ship OLYMPIA as well as the construction and application of figures on the top decks of the model available in the Moewe Verlag. The requirements were Pools and full air conditioning were already available on the ship.Page 8 Joachim Frerichs The Transatlantic Paper Model Magazine Passengers on board of the TS Olympia 1. As the era of Ocean liners came to and end in the sixties and planes took over the travelling to America. Neapel. During the building of several card models. which could make the model more realistic. 2. particular with passenger ships. Messina as well as the Pireus. The ship travelled on the Nordatlantik service New York. Many models look like they just came from the shipyard and are on test drive (see photo below) My goal was design and to build figures. In Hamburg her turbines were exchanged agains diesel motors and here characteristic smoke stag exchanged against a . I always missed figures. From 1955 she also serviced Boston. After the winter she would be used in the cruising business. the Olympia was modified from a partial to full cruise ship. 1981 the ship was sold to the Commodore Cruise line and modified again in 1983 as well as 1983.. Halifax. Lissabon. As a result of the Oil crisis the ship was layed dry 1974 at Pireus and later at Perama. After 1961 she also travelled to the harbours of Limassol and Haifa. Depending on the requirements the OLYMPIA could transport 50 to 196 passenger in the first class and 1160 to 1306 Passengers in the tourist class. Cherbourg and Southampton and Bremerhaven. Her machines could provide 25.000 Horse power and gave the ship a speed of 25 knots. Geschichte des Turbinenschiffes OLYMPIA The OLYMPIA was build in 1953 with the building number 636 on the Alexander Stephen and Sons Shipyard in Glasgow for For The Greek Line.
The spread arm on one figure I have designed on another figures as leaning on the body. Issue 1 The CARIBE 1 was deployed as cruise ship in the Carribean.75 m. so that shirts and shorts were developed. As I draw the individual body parts as one body. Now I did make a lot of men figures. Now I was only missing .Volume 1. I mirrored now the figure and constructed the hairs on the back side (Picture 9). More to the history of the ship find at www. Afterwards I draw the hair form on the front side of the figures (Picture 7). I was able to change the colors in the pelvis area. In the scale of 1:250 my figures would have a size of 7 mm which is approximately a length in real of 1. Design and building of figures and sitting arrangements For the design of figure and sitting arrangements I used my old Corel Draw 3.html Page 9 3. With the program comes the clipart for a human I draw in the sequence as below the face. I corrected the flow of the lines (Picture 8). Now the front of the figure was finished. I also could change the haircolors so that I could generate many different figures. the legs as well as the arms (Picture 1-6) .0 program. The imperfections of the drawings is in this size not noticeable anymore.maritimematters. Anschließend zeichnete ich die Haarform auf der Vorderseite der Figuren (Bild 7) . main body. The ship was later renamed as Regal Empress and does still service as cruise ship for the company.com/ regalempress1.
For the color I choose . bikini and hair color. I did copy a men figure. Here were chairs included with the interior of the bridge. I used the scale of the chairs and designed them also with my Corel Interior Bridge of the Mellum . The right side of the sun chairs has to be folded down after it has been cut out ( here we will place the legs of a folded figure) and the left side will be folded up (here we will place the back of a figure) Now I had to start on sitting tools. Same as with men figure I did change skin.Page 10 The Transatlantic Paper Model Magazine femine figures. 10 mm As template for the chairs I used the card model sheets of the universal ship MELLUM from the Hamburger Modellbaubogen Verlag (HMV) . I draw a bikini as well and now I had made out of a men a woman figure. For the design of the sun chairs I used the chairs from building kit of the liner Bremen. Draw drawing program. I mirrored the figure and made also longer hair in the back.brown. delete the hairs and designed a longer hair. I wanted to make normal chairs as well as sun chairs and install on the ship.how could it be different for wood chairs . The feminie figure did look still a little bit rough in the drawing scale but this all disappeared when brought to the scale of 1:250.
which is glued on the left side. I did design another side. Issue 1 Page 11 Now I had all required parts designed. It took me 25 hours to assemble all objects. chairs and sun chairs and begin to assembly the objects on its place. To fold up Fold down .Volume 1. New designed side 11 mm Original Size of the chair As the folded up side of the sun chair is white on the back. Both pictures show the result of my work. I made multiple copies of figures. 74 chairs and 141 sun chairs installed. When I finished I had 389 figures. This way the folded up side will have a brown wood structure on both sides.
One solution is to cut out all grey area and get this way a railing from paper. Therefore you have to glue part 1 together by holding ring 1c in the middle. I scanned all the windows and printed them on transparent foil. Attach the you to push part “1c” from openings to the middle of the tube. The basic shape of this lighthouse is tube with three rings on top and bottom. The same I did with the door. Behind the window I glued the printed foil of windows by aligning the window frames with each other. My choice was something easy and fast to build and related to ships. which each containing in average 9 window glasses which are separated by a grill. you to place the rings “1c” into the middle. The same applies for the door part 7. The circles have to be laminated on at least 0. This obviously took some time. the recessed window will not allow and bottom.4 mm cardboard to provide enough stability. The first is to use part 1 as it is with printed windows or second cut out the whole windows and replace with the recessed windows Part 9.Page 12 The Transatlantic Paper Model Magazine Lighthouse “Alte Liebe” Cuxhaven Schreiber Verlag Building the Model After building only ship models I decided to try out some architecture. Each window frame is divided in two parts. architecture models are easier than ship models to built as they do not have as many parts and small details. After this I glued in the two rings on top stripe 2C on the outside. which had to be laminated as well. I did not like the printed railing 3. To make the windows more realistic I laminated the windows with same thickness of paper and did cut out all individual window glasses. In retrospect I would now try this . Next is the ring 2 and 2a. but it does make a better look. Next I formed part one to a tube. I choose the later with some modification. because if you glue part one together. In general. Before gluing part 1 to its final round shape. which are many. The general principle of building architecture paper models is the same as with ship building. There are two options for the windows. Therefore I decided for the lighthouse “Alte Liebe from Schreiber”.
This a nice starting model for architecture and I think it would be a great idea to scale it down to 1:250 scale and use it for a diorama with ship models. After finishing this part I did glue it on the main column. I finally succeeded achieved a sufficient gluing and the part did maintain its round shape. Therefore I had to form the rods and glue them to the styrene tubes and hold them for very long time into the shape and together which proved to be difficult and tiresome. The color helped to maintain more stability. I glued the ready lighthouse on a strong cardboard and got some grass and sand material used for railways. Issue 1 Page 13 solution. Parts 6 to 6f were very easy. which I printed dark green with my inkjet printer. but at the time of building the model I decide to replace it connected to the to them long enough so the parts do not snap back. Next the roof had to be formed. If you not wait long enough the railing will just snap back out of the form. The material did not allow forming into a round shape permanently and the material does not glue well. In Part 5 I replaced all window part with a foil. Again this achieves are more three dimensional look. Afterward I had to paint the railing black. with a railing which I built from styrene rods. which I painted black. glued together and n d d e r Ö l k r i s e w u r d e d . Nevertheless I will not do it this way again and I recommend cutting out the railing from the paper. This proved to be very difficult for two reasons. On top of the rounded foil I glued styrene rods. Unfortunately this it was happened several times. Just ensure the proper forming and gluing into the conical shape.Volume 1.
Therefore the challenge exist for me to get last out of paper modeling by maintaining it’s character. missing Takelage • • Unsuitable Photo Etch Parts Coloration and glue which damage the model Let‘s begin with the stability. Important for detailing is the harmony of the total concept. Because of decades of practise my models today are built for competition. Beside I build plastic models and with other materials according to plans. what are the weaknesses of paper modeling? • • • • Insufficient Stability Uneven and weak decks with missing or weak railings Uneven walls at the hull or superstructure Crooked Masts. . with which I. Here in this circle many good tips were introduced. Or asked differently. Sure enough the efforts required to seek perfection is substantial and does not have much to do with normal Paper modeling. as a member of the Nauticus. compete on national and international competitions of the World Association Naviga. I started after the war. My models can be described at least partially as paper laminated wood models.Page 14 The Transatlantic Paper Model Magazine Professional Finish of Top Ship Models By Hermann Böck Allow me to introduce myself. the umbrella organisation of German Ship Modeler. as the different techniques have to work together. I am working since 50 years in all areas of ship model building. naturally. An important point is also the longevity of a model built with such a big effort. In addition I want to show more ways to improve models illustrated with examples. They withstand many years even with high tempeature and moisture fluctuations. with paper models and I stayed with it since then.
Here I glue on the base plate. I use cold glue which I diluted slightly.Volume 1. I used the same kind of paper and glue them with water soluble glue. The often wrong coloring particular frequent at navy ships can be corrected this way as well. Issue 1 Page 15 How is such a Model built Above Water line Hull I start at the bottom with javelin wood. Below Water Line Hull This is a difficult subject. The bulkheads sitting on top have to be reduced by the same distance. Railings They are more and more used in Paper modeling. I find it difficult to achieve acceptable results. this parts have to be laminated as well. The outer gluing flaps of the parts are cut off. I prefer therefore to built the underwater hull from bulkheads out of wood and plating out of cardboard. The decks above are glued as well on 1 mm thick wood. Platforms are laminated with 0. My personal opinion is that they do not belong on a paper model. This also allows forming of the part in the wet stage. Even with the relatively clever designed construction of the parts by HMV. Gluing flaps of cut in parts are removed.4 mm javelin wood. With a very few exceptions. Most of the time you see the bulkheads. bumps or not harmonic shapes. it is not possible to achieve acceptable results because of the shape of the hull. Depending on the strength of the paper the outer skin of the hull. I only use it there an improvement through the substitution of paper can be achieved because the size does not provide . 1 to 2 mm thick. All this leads to a considerable stability and as a side effect provides a suitable base for good railing and masts.6 to 0. The same procedure will be used for larger parts of the superstructure.
The original had never the bright red. They really improve the look of the model. Because I have to color metal parts which I use in the construction. so parts can be find easily A Trip around the HMV Bismarck by Hermann Boeck . it is only a matter of practice and effort. • • • • • A print on thinner paper for specially fine parts To use realistic colors for the underwater hull of navy ships. I make them out of copper wire in the right thickness. Often the available photo etch parts are too thin (for example boast davits and cranes). particular folding lines Overlapping print on white areas. which dominates the entire impression. And naturally the ugly looking glue marks are not an issue with water soluble glues. the use of strong diluted glues for double laminated parts allows us to form wet part easily into shapes. they do not belong on a model 3 D diagrams as instructions For models with a lot of parts. This way additional parts as well as cutting edges have the same color. which in prepare in different consistencies and store in jars. Thanks to the stability of the base and the hull they are easy to install. It does not work for me. Colors You find frequent in instructions and publications the recommendation to use felt pens to color the cutting edges. This way the parts are developed exactly to the plans and in the right thickness. As a results you will not get white unprinted areas if the parts.Page 16 The Transatlantic Paper Model Magazine stability. Glue I admire modeler who use cellulose glues like UHU Alleskleber or Flinke Flasche. I use water soluble glues like Ponal Express. is not true if the glue is used properly. so for examples the color of the plank of the ship deck should extend beyond its border lines. This parts are not really as difficult as they look. Wish List for the Publisher of Paper Models • • Less thick line. Correct is a brown red No advertising prints (Wilhelmshavener Möwe). In any case the material thickness of the photo etch set parts has to in harmony with the paper parts. To the contrary. which will remain stabile without any tension. I always design and construct photo etch parts myself. The often heard argument that the water content leads to undesirable deformation. a part list with reference to the sheet number. which will be glues on top became smaller as the printed outline on the deck. The models will look accordingly. I will use the same enamel dull colors from Revell and Humbrol. Other Metal Parts This are for example path iron and smoke stag rings.
Volume 1. Issue 1 Page 17 .
which could be built easily. As more and more the thought developed to built the MS Dresden of the DSR (today the tradition ship Peace in Rostock) as model in 1:50 scale.5 mm) such a material would be soft and bendable. : 142. 500-1000 mm model. Build in 1956/57 Length: 157. the question arose how the longitudinal and transversal stability would perform and what measurements were necessary to provide enough stability. I imagine that cardboard in such thickness (1. in some instance even free.5 mm or more.00 m From: Hans-Dieter Brinkmeyer Am Spielberg 15 32602 Vlotho The Basic Premise: The wish to built a ship model from cardboard was developing with me for some years. which require a high longitude and the same applies for ship models.L. Stablity questions: As I did build so far all my models out of plywood.00 m Largest width: 20. If you build a whole ship’s body out of plywood. as cardboard is relatively cheap compared to wood.d. I decide to build it out of cardboard The basic thought was to try whether it is possible to build a 3140 mm long and 400 mm width ship out of cardboard ? The other consideration was whether it would be possible to build in some kind of mass production. Ships are long stretched constructions. you get a thickness of the outer hull of 3. First it was to become only a small appr.60 m Length z.5 m or more By Hans Dieter Brinkmeyer The example of the construction of the DSR-Freighter MS Dresden .Page 18 The Transatlantic Paper Model Magazine Construction of Card Models in a length of 2. In regards to the gluing . With cardboard the situation looks very different. Cardboard is relatively thin and soft compared to plywood and the layer do not block each other.
as compared to bow and stern. bow and stern. In my profession as developer and designer of furniture it was known to me that upholstery frames are partially covered with one side white 1. The wave of the cardboard should be directed to the top. is the surface quality here secondary. as for limited lengths the same kinds of bulkheads are required for both sides. On a plain and smooth surface we place the bottom plate of the corresponding section out of corrugated cardboard. As this component do not have to be painted. Here we mean diverse packaging materials out of cardboard. Issue 1 Page 19 forced plastic. It is very important to be very precise in drawing the position as otherwise the hull will become crooked. and can be easily shaped into round forms. At the material selection of the cardboard an accident helped me. It is also easy to treat this cardboard without preparation with artificial resin or acrylic color.5 mm cardboard material. The handling with scissor and cutter is also very good. After bulkheads. it was becoming quiet clear to me that the construction could only be successful if the same process as in the large ship construction would be applied. In order to handle the hull better during construction I decided to build in segments. Material Selection: I would like to state here that it is always possible to build the described card models from normal rest cardboards which is available in any household.Volume 1. which could be plated with cardboard. On the base plate the location and position of the inner keel is determined and drawn. longitudinal and transversal bulkheads. On top of the keel with will be placed as t-shape and glued on. After marking the position the keel made out of the corrugated cardboard will be glued on (check longitudinal direction of the wave). At this point I do not want to keep secret on disadvantage of this method: cardboard can be formed properly in one direction. With the construction of the bulkheads we start in the middle. keel. This construction area will be compensated by coating of the hull with plastic fiber rein- . But mistakes are part of the deal and we never stop learning. For the carrying and static important parts a one layered corrugated cardboard can be used. Decks and gallows frames. Here it is important to make sure that the wave of of the corrugated cardboard of the length stringer is directed in of the parts together. It is available in the format 1000 x 1500 mm. We will get therefore not a continuous rounding in the bottom area. it should be achieved that the ship’s hull should be as flexible as a real ship. what is very important for the hull bottom. The cardboard has a high tensile strength. This two material have the ideal conditions for the ships hull. The question arises whether it is not better to construct one connected bulkhead frame. which means floor. Here a lot of smoothing work could be eliminated. keel the length stringer will be glued between the bulkheads. The construction of the Ships Hull: If you take in consideration the points described in the stability questions.
Finally the deck stringer and the hatch openings made from corrugated cardboard will be installed. so that already at that time the hatches could be cut out of the cardboard. The cardboard will be calculated in such a way that in can be applied directly to the framework. The construction of the deck is very simple. which simplifies the assembly of the bulkheads and reduce the construction time. It is again important to remember the cardboard can be formed only in one direction. As the gluing with a hot glue gun can lead to problems (this are long glue areas which require often a re-alignment) I used normal white glue. very difficult or not possible at all. similar to the real ship building. A slight splay of the cardboard is achieved and its longitudinal strength is increased. which will give the ship from the start the required longitudinal and transversal stability. it is to be scored in the area of the hatches and bent back. All gluing is done with hot glue. Ship decks are one time bend in longitudinal and one time in transversal direction. This allows a quick construction of the bulkheads and the same time achieve a enormous stability of each glue point.5 mm cardboard. This way we get section by section until a construction time of one week the hull can be completed. Because of the protrusion of the deck itself it could be only build in single segment stretching other the whole width. It astonishes how the single parts connect with each other and which possibilities cardboard offers. The position of the hatches was already determined at the time of assembling of the bulkheads.Page 20 The Transatlantic Paper Model Magazine the longitudinal direction of the hull. The Deck Construction: The freighter of the typ IV were build in the fifties. because smoothing is here. it had soft. In order to achieve a better lateral strength. I have to admit that this material does not leave any wish open and is an excellent material for model building. As all ships of this time. It should be noted here that all stringer and keel parts are 20 mm wide. A good examples is the Cap San Diego in the Hamburg harbor. which gave the ships a fast optical pleasing form. and that the single plates are aligning clean to each other. In this construction phase the bulkheads will be plated with 1. On the type IV the deck is kept straight in transversal direction in the area of the hatches and falls slightly to both sides. rounded lines with the usual deck sprung. The connection with the outer hull (it is as in the original 5 mm higher than the deck) is butt . It is also very important. The assemble bulkhead frame resembles the one of a real ship With such a construction we achieve a very good and torsion free bulkhead framework. After the construction of the hull out of cardboard. In this way the single sections are build and later attached togehter. that the connecting single plates a glued from behind with a cardboard to connect them.
drilled and further processed. After the finalization of this construction section. large smooth. it is hardly noticeable. smoothed and sanded. As white glue is shrinking a little when it dries. not too thin or to thick. a transversal and most importantly longitudinal . Finally everything will be painted. which can be used very well in card modeling. For all static important parts (keel.Volume 1. the hull is completely closed and has a very good stability. For gluing I recommend hot glue with a glue gun. as it can be applied very fast and safe and on top of it make the hull water proof. • plastic with the coat of smooth glue tape I prefer the plastic fiber reinforced method. I hope that this report can contribute glued Finally in order to achieve a water proof transition (hull/deck) a small glue string is attached to the deck edge and smooth over with the finger. Issue 1 Page 21 cardboard. To make the hull floatable: To make a card model (large or small) floatable there a few possibilities: • With lot of varnishwith plastic fiber reinforced What has to be paid attention to in order to build a large model out of cardboard? For the outer skin use smooth. This method is not too difficult and can be easily managed.large format . Mind at least 1 mm strong. etc) always use corrugated cardboard. My hull is coated with a layer of plastic fiber reinforced plastic. Normal connection with corners for example I glue with “All purpose glue” which can be sourced from any supermarket. as they are very familiar with reinforcements. With construction of the bulkhead frames it is recommended to follow the real ship building.
Page 22 The Transatlantic Paper Model Magazine a little that cardboard will be used to build larger ship models. Hans-Dieter Brinkmeyer . which our wives (here a big thanks for their tolerance for our beautiful hobby) will appreciate. For further questions I will always available. can be prepared in living room or kitchen and does not make much dirt or dust. This material is nearly free (help the model building cash).
Volume 1. what I will build at what stage and what modifications has to be made. so that I can later. the colorful tables and wallpaper will disappear when the decks will be installed and which according to the model construction can not be removed anymore. The ship has three large saloon rooms and the bridge. so that you can view Salon and Restaurants. so they fit better into the socket. If you do not have a possibility to scan. when you can also photo Cap Arcona (1927) but did go only half way. I decided to make all saloons and the bridge visible and not only the skylights but also by taking out of the corresponding decks. This is a very good idea and does enhance the models. pianos. have a spare deck. and that I mean with half way. which run pointed at the bottom end. Ullrich Boehme The Hamburger Modellbau Verlag did go new ways with the construction of the Bremen (1929) and the not modify the model. The most important task was to study the model sheets and from the beginning to consider. All work and suffering would be in vain. First I have scanned with a high resolution the parts of deck 78 – that is the deck. The ships were are offered with the interior of the big saloons and the bridge. because the deck of the salon (part 58 to 58 c) is the fundament for all superstructures above. which closes the saloon from the top. In the following I will describe on the sample of the Cap Arcona how I modified the model. On the deck 59-58c are markings for the smoke stag. bars and restauthe interior accessible for the viewer at both models. After some consideration I can to be following basic construction. This mental considerations were particular in case of the Cap Arcona important. which all can be shown open. So another room developed into which another guide could be placed. The first question was if I want to show all rooms open or maybe only one and what impact does this have for certain building groups. Issue 1 Page 23 Interior Construction of the Cap Arcona HMV Dr. That’ why I have looked for ways to make . In this I have build in guiding cuboids. But. For the foremost part under the bridge I build an extension to the top of the wall 69c. then all saloons including hundreds of chairs and tables. if something goes wrong. if you do rants. It had to find a method to install the decks so that we are in a fixed position but on the other hand can be retracted.
The companionway 96 e-f is glued on to the folding deck. On this post I can move out the deck. I made a printout.5 mm wide cardboard stripe on the under removing it with the decks. After that the all sidewalls were modified. the middle transverse column has to be cut through. In the back area of the saloon are four deck beams. so that the photo etch windows can be inserted. I did make a deck copy with the scanner. The two side parts are glued on to the tennis court and can be removed as well. The bridge house does have a porch. window layer.Page 24 The Transatlantic Paper Model Magazine to be paid attention that the ventilator tubes are glued on in such a way that the part 102 can be removed with the tubes together. At the front part of the deck in the middle a special support for the mounting of stag mast of the Besan mast was required. In order to remove the tennis court without having to touch the cardboard at the side.5 mm from this line inside. Before applying the canvas on the left cam. It is very difficult to see from the instruction diagrams where exactly the parts have to be placed. I have placed guide wedges between the outer walls and folded on top to the back. The mountings No 244 and 245 are directly glued under the deck on to the wall. so that the deck could be put at its place again. did I bend the post rectangular and pushed through the cardboard from the bottom and glue at the bottom. the horizontal parts are only laminated with a 1. Cross to the saloon I attached again some pocket beams. You have to see . A little more difficult was the opening of the tennis place. The front corners of the tennis court are also laminated and prevent the corners from bending downwards. A triangular wedge was placed at backward edge of the aft smoke stage foundation. so that the walls have three layers: Outer wall. I did cut off cover of the porch from connecting deck and replaced with a very small silk stripe. This part was glued with the print upside down under the origi- nal deck and we had an impost. In order to prevent the up rolling of the outer edges of the deck. so that the upper edge of the pedestal received a stiffening. I have glued the gluing folds of the smoke stag pedestal 62.68 and 69 to the inside. it is directly connected with the wedge. On this wedge the deck is resting. The deck can be folded up. The tennis court was cut out not exactly on the markings but 2. where the wedge shaped fundament sits. The front ball net is built in three parts. The parts which go to the outer walls are three layer laminated. I have cut out the window and doors with a knife and made the windows out of plastic foil. The measure and the color were determined by part 61 and I have therefore constructed a few extra beams (the scanner did do a good job here). which prevent the deck from hanging through. It preferred to glue the parts stationary instead of copy the part. I thought that they are necessary in the front area as well. But we were missing the imposts for the side edges. inner wall. The cut out piece was double laminated to make it more stabile. My cutting line was the inner marking of the tennis place. In the middle. because you otherwise can not fold the deck. which I glued under the deck. The cloth acts as hinge. The same applies for winch and davits. They are designed in double thickness. The insertion cubes mentioned earlier did get larger gluing flaps folded to the back.
I had to make sure that there was not a large edge. As I wanted to be able to look into these decks also from the skylights and from the tennis deck. I had to cut out all openings before the final assembly. When everything was sitting right and glue was dry. Underneath came one of the beams described above. The folding edge is around a half a centimeter more inside so that the parts to be attached can be easier placed. I further on had to decide whether to build the deck 78/79 in once piece according the instruction or retractable as two parts. later scored from the back so that another guide was made. In this slit came the tabs. I glueing tabs have the tendency to flip open. I also made sure that the glue tabs or not direct at the deck. The solution with the tabs glued under did make it possible to have just a very fine edge. did I take the decks out and glued the guides in their final position. Should we make the superstructure on the deck 79 also retractable. The deck parts had to be aligned and glue only at points together with the guide wedges and cuboids so . In order to prevent edges of the joint from rolling up at the position where they are glued I have attached a rectangular insertion tab. I did not cut out the parts to be separated completely but did leave a part on the edge in the size of glue tab folded to the top. The bottom measurements of the deck openings for the part in question 99 the back half. Direct that later adjustments are still possible. retractable. This way the first two decks had the some stability. For practicality reason I decided to use the solution of dividing into two parts. But because the glue edge of the decks is visible.Page 25 The Transatlantic Paper Model Magazine that a pocket is made in which we again place some rectangular gluing fold. under which are nicely furnished restaurant was? I decide to build everything that could be made retractable. Now another decision was required. 102 and the tennis place were determined.
At the assembly of the ventilator part 102 it has of removing it with the decks. In the middle. The cut out piece was double laminated to make it more stabile.Volume 1. The companionway 96 e-f is glued on to the folding deck. The tennis court was cut out not exactly on the markings but 2. The bridge house does have a porch.5 mm from this line inside. On this post I can move out the deck. where the wedge shaped fundament sits. I did make a deck copy with the scanner. looking from the back. Issue 1 Page 26 did cut the Part 99. A triangular wedge was placed at backward edge of the aft smoke stage foundation. Cross to the saloon I attached again some pocket beams. it is directly connected with the wedge. The two side parts are glued on to the tennis court and can be removed as well. because you otherwise can not fold the deck. . Before applying the canvas on the left cam. did I bend the post rectangular and pushed through the cardboard from the bottom and glue at the bottom. You have to see where the foldable reeling of the companionway touches the post. In order to remove the tennis court without having to touch the cardboard at the side. at the begin of the rounding of the outer wall in half. On this wedge the deck is resting. I did cut off cover of the porch from connecting deck and replaced with a very small silk stripe. Natu- very firm to the side parts 103 and 104 beside connection with an insertion. The front corners of the tennis court are also laminated and prevent the corners from bending downwards. A little more difficult was the opening of the tennis place. I can place the model up- rally I did attach a beam to the decks and the two parts so that side cannot bend outward. With the part 102 did I build them side down and the parts do not move from its place. This part was glued with the print upside down under the original deck and we had an impost. The deck can be folded up. At the front part of the deck in the middle a special support for the mounting of stag mast of the Besan mast was required. The front ball net is built in three parts. The cloth acts as hinge. But we were missing the imposts for the side edges. My cutting line was the inner marking of the tennis place. so that the deck could be put at its place again. the middle transverse column has to be cut through. I made a printout.
Suitable for Passenger or Freight Service. After everything was dry start at the middle deck. stern and middle section first separate and connect them afterwards. The ships of the Monte class were designed for the transport of immigrants to South America. now we go on with the stern. It was particular at the stern and bow sufficient space added to allow tolerances for adjustments. So. glued together and fixed with small color pots. Also the idea with additional hull plate stripes is very good. After I would like to show the build of the passenger liner “Mote Rosa” of the Hamburg-Süd from the Passat Verlag. The very stable bulkhead construction (here I still have to praise the designer) allows the gluing without fear. Here it is better to use „Flinke Flasche“ and apply the glue from the backside of the part and distribute it with a tooth pick. but after the installment of the first two lon- the thirties from Frank Hartz gave the impulse to build the ship. then the back deck and then the front deck. Contrary to the instruction. I have leveled plain the base plate on a 8 mm glass plate with a help of a steel ruler and connected the parts. in this case was the bulkhead number printed beside the part itself. With a gross displacement of 14. At the beginning I was skeptical. The upper stern part – formed inside the hand with an old paint brush handle – was intentionally not glued on the lower bulkhead. Do not forget to color the cutting edges and do not use Wiccoll glue here – the fast drying of the glue and the degree of moisture does not allow enough time for corrections and does not prevent corrugation. (This was actually done by the some . This way I preserve me the possibility to adjust small deviations of the hull. it is first time possible to build freighter with open loading hatch. I had the kit was for quite some while in my drawer. they became soon very popular.Page 27 The Transatlantic Paper Model Magazine Monte Rossa Passat Verlag Wilfried Wieczorek publisher for the model Pekari).000 tons we were also used in the cruise business. After the study of the instruction. In particular the bulkhead construction – and here is precise work required – guarantees the fun building it. This help for fast finding. which requires to build bow. I have laminated the bulkheads to double thickness. but the book about the Hamburg harbor in The transversal bulkheads of the middle part I have aligned with a geo triangle. The model surprise with lots of details on 20 pages in the A4 format. They were the first ships. For this purpose I used Spray glue. Let dry always an hour longer than you think. It is an old habit of me to number each part by hand. gitudinal bulkheads the genial design showed itself: a contortion around the longitudinal bulkhead is not possible – and if the same design is used. which had only one class.
Here again something fundamental: Before the hull sides are attached the steamer will remain loaded with small color pots on the glas plate.Volume 1. Now I know where I have to apply . Even after the gluing of the bigger deck parts. Here a solvent based glue is recommended and apply the glue with a tooth pick on the whole surface. Particular enough supplemental material has been provided for stern and bow area. In respect to the hull walls (Auguste Victoria. Ships would be always started amidships with a thin stripes and then I applied the remaining parts towards the stern and bow. I started the „Hilfsdeck“ and than the back- front and back deck had to be installed. HMV has always on the left and right some addi- tional material in the part. The solid bulkhead construction ( I have to make a compliment to the designer) enables the assembly of the sides of the hull without worries. Since the arrival of the HMV models (Peter Brandt) and the construction diagrams prepared in AutoCAD this becomes not so simple anymore. A lot of colleagues have the problem how to get so much glue onto the cross bulkhead. did I try to attach ballast in form of a curtain lead ribbon to balance it out. Many ships have only one longitudinal bulkhead.) I have always started from the front and worked my way to the middle – with lots of drying time and in small steps. Issue 1 tion of a part. Depending on size and dimension of the model. The good old Wilhelmshavener I always build “blind“ according to the instructions. it worked fine and the ship becomes some weight and sits more stabile on the table. to interpret the assembly as well as the exact posi- etc. To determine the amount of lead ribbon please use your sense of proportion. a few paper modelers will have already noted that the model has the habit to lift up the stern and bow. This requires a different process – like the cutting off of the I have to glue so much hull walls. Emden. so that nothing can happen At the Monte Rosa I will use photo etch parts. Before the gluing of the side plates place it on to the bulkheads and mark the position on the visible back with a soft pencil. Also the idea with additional hull plating stripes is excellent. Maybe a small tip. But please do not forget the coloring of the cutting edges and do not use Wiccoll glue as the fast drying time and its humidity does allow you to adjust the position of the part and also might wave the material. Page 28 printed railing – or to add parts which later are difficult to access. as it is very small and everything was well dried.
I did have that luck. I nearly missed the big stairs. The models is desiged for a more simple and a detailed built. Now to the reserve anchor.. The planks of the promenade deck did fit without any problems.. double gluing I do only with Flinke Flasche. do not use too much color because otherwise the parts will stick to the background and it will difficult to remove them without damage. The doubled front and side walls which enclose the promenade deck from outside including the L- shaped bulkheads did need a day drying time – weigthed with maritme literature of course. The site walls were attached to position of the reserve anchor. I forgot to retoush the here was enough „meat“ – but please always check dry before glueing. which are applied to bulkheads. if enough meat is available and when starting at the stern and aft. I did have the luck to find a pincher which I could use as folding edge. did I naturally away the printed railing which I did cut of from the parts and throw it in the garbage. place the deck opposite site up on to the bulkheads and mark. Carefully cutting with ruler and cutter – there is always the danger of to cut through a longitudinal stripe. – and after the assembly – everthing did fit nicely – it looks like this .Page 29 The Transatlantic Paper Model Magazine more glue. The big anchor capstan: Deflector rolls mounted on to the back deck. Now. As this is my first model I build with Photo Etch kit. Also the deck und glued on. stern and aft first. than the middle part in order to check. but how do I bend everything that it does look like a stair. I do it the same with the decks. everthing else with sharpened tooth pick and Wiccol. looked at it friendly. With a very sharp tweezer the . which is applied as thick drop on a cardboard sheet. for the detail fanatician the kits does not create any limitations. Dumm enought. The sidewalls with the large panorama window will be glued against the double laminated bulkheads of the middle part. To the Side plates. so I modified it with grey color I laminated the deck to double thickness contraer to the instruction – unfortenatly is the position not indicated – therefore I placed it on the site plates – and it fit. A little tip here on the side. That always happens if you do not fully concentrate. I did attach the photo etch railing a day before on cardboard. You can see that on the printed on capstan motor for the derricks. and as mentioned before. As the reserve anchor is also included as a three-dimensional part and I have it already ready. The anchor capstan looked to black for me. Leave a little protrusion so that the photo etch railings have fixpoint and find some stability when glued. cleaned with Acetone or gasoline and defatted and afterwards spray painted with satin white color. search for the two parts of the stairs – stairs plus middle railing – found it. it does not look good to attach it to its shadow. In my euphoria about the good fit and the model fun.
Volume 1. . Until now I did know two different ways of attaching the walls of the superstructure – glue flaps on the bottom and the top of the part. The boats deck did find wonderfully to the L-bulkheads – I tried the part dry – and then glued on so I could proceed with the superstructure. By double laminating all bulkheads and decks a good firmness and longitudinal stability can be achieved. I did notice that the stability is much higher as with the traditional method particular if transversal bulkheads are used. The cardboard I used hat the same thickness as on the destroyer “USS Leutze” from Modelik. which I cut out like a bed. It did go easier than I thought and the result did make the appetite for more. After the long parts of the ship are dried. so that I could eliminate the folding lines. which had to be scored and then folded or insertion flaps system. as the superstructure has a lot of flat sides und the walls are all glued separate. Issue 1 Page 30 stairs can be bend to the required angle. The technique used on this model of separate glue strips is really good. The side wall to be glued to the stripe can be butt glued to it and the material can be adjusted if necessary. This way I do have adjust the hull all the time and I can check the assembly of the following ventilators and other divers parts from different perspectives and the hull is not sliding on the desk. The stripes will be positioned on the deck indepently from the wall and then glued on. the ship was allowed to leave the glas plate and took its place on bed of foam material.
did I install the first small parts as the sklylights. which can arise when the smoke stag is connected from both sides with spin yarn to the deck. Ventilator and the two ventilator engines. The tiresome work of similar items for all the different decks is limited .. wattle and coated) in the thickness of 0.. The smoke stag did I only attach to the deck after all ventilators had been completed. he did ask me a couple of weeks ago to make some picture as he wanted to build the model also himself.. made out of Evergreen Round material. Do not do this.1 mm. First shortened and then with the application of Wicoll applied. Drilled hole into the deck. A hair clip did provide the necessary pull – and let it dry. I have now completed the Signal deck with all small parts. after the smoke stag is glued to the deck and well dried. This eliminates some stress.After the bridge and the bridge cams were completed. This material has a very good . Now the base is glued on – take a deep breath – because now we have to separate the ladder out of the photo . In the instruction it says that the hull is to be glued around the bulkhead.Page 31 The Transatlantic Paper Model Magazine etch set – this went well. The note regarding the boatswain was really for my hobby colleague Michel. For the rigging I use NC-silk out of medical area (silk threads.the sequence of the instruction is interrupted – and work deck by deck. Now let’s build the first smoke stag In the background you can see the bulkheads for the second smoke stag. The smoke stag pipe – purist may excuse me. The railing parts are rounded with a wood rod and also glued on. with a slight bend needle – going out of the windows – Glue drops on the deck. Glue the part together as a tube first and then push it over the bulkheads. I apply glue into the holes which I have drilled with a needle before and the rigging attached with a drop of glue. which had colored brass before and assembled according to the photos I had. Finally apply glue to the edges.
After I have made my experience with .Volume 1. not at the time of modeling. As an example here the photo of the main mast of the Auguste Victoria. In my euphoria I did separate the reling parts from the cardboard. And you see all went fine. has to be colored and be sorted according the deck positions. which I had on the table with all the railing. Unthankful are nevertheless close up shoots … they show all tolerance. but the numbers on the paper parts are not corresponding with the photo etch parts. Issue 1 Page 32 stability. Separated from the platine.75 mm The first smoke stag was now erected – well frapped and secured on the deck – the first visitors already invited – and some did complain that the smoke stag rigging is going through their windows. Nevertheless. Photos are static but do reveal every mistake – the eye viewing a model supplements – that a experience modeler told me once. A nice diagram instruction of the Passat Verlag is included. is easy to contrive and does not rove out and is absolute lint free. but at viewing a model develops as if you were yourself 70 years ago on the ship. The hole for contriving of the stag of the four wants is in diameter 0. compared and in trusting my intuitions assembled. Luckily the remaining parts were to be find in the vicinity of my shipyard. Now the photo etch kit. It is not cheap but the result justifies in my opinion the price.
especially the ones from G. back and glue them. It is very install after the cuts are made. In respect to the alignment of the ventilators – see back edge of the smoke stag … Here tip in regards to the small traps – the designer did know exactly where to place the bulkhead so that the flue pipe can be placed on the right position. After the big parts are assembled (smoke stags). – the life boats had to be assembled. After the Titanic catastrophe sufficient life saving equipment was installed on board.Page 33 The Transatlantic Paper Model Magazine photo etch parts and their effect on a model – that’s really fun – every day life returned. In case . The instruction requires 14 triangular cuts per boat. The photo show the cleats already installed for the boats On this photo one can see the doubled parts for the further assembly of hte cleats and davits. Then form round and glue together. podest and steam piple as well as the mounting for the antenna from photo etch. fast added the two ventilators before the smoke stag – hier helped me a tip I got – To moisten the parts before rounding them und then form with a round wood. For test purpose I have cut out as well the persening and I had to learn . The smoke was again assembled in the usual manner – steps. As fine the model is detailed.. Was hardly possible to bend them of the large ventilators this does not play are role as they are all superimpose turnable – depending on the wind direction they are rotated by hand. For some the parts located close buy helped me to find the direction. Neubert. railing positioned – the comfort level to work with photo etch parts has increased. That I did do for one boat.. all fits – the biggest problem is still the written instruction. Let it dry – man they were rounded. Who like to build a lot of similar parts will have fun here. As can be seen on the photo for some the consecutive numbers for the parts of the ventilators are missing. Even for the assembly of the most complicated arrangements – most light blue printed and three dimensional drawings – I still admire them. For your information one boat has a length of 41 mm. With the old Wilhelmshavener . You could build them blindly because of the instruction which is clear to the point. Now I had to get to the boats. For example the two yellow lines: for all ventilator motors the direction of the assembly is noted – for the big suction ventilators on the lower bridge deck it can be found through the write on print – for the symetrical ones it is left to the builder to choose. Very good recognizable the good stability of the wire I used for rigging. In case of the Monte Rossa this meant 28 boats positioned in double rows.
nachdem ich nun das Bootsdeck wHauptdeck durchreichten. stern and bow with cutter and ruler – even if it is only 3 mm. and at this points also some tips . The plastic eraser works better than the finger (Photo 2) After the folding the form can be installed. Now I did understand the discrete note that the triangular flaps are to be separated from the persening and separate to glue. After the completion of the boat deck I had to decide where do I continue.Volume 1. The persening which was cut out without flaps has to be scored has to be first glued on one side of the boat and when it is dried on the other. There must be a simpler way. Issue 1 Page 34 recognized. I tried to avoid complication when they stairs are first that the triangular flaps in the back and front are not identical after the glueing together with the triangular cut of the boat itself. So let‘s take the photo etch parts. This way we avoid problem later when we butt glue. The older eraser has to be cleaned and we need a round log. 29 x 14 triangluar flaps of 1.5 x 3 mm to be painted grey from both sides? May be it still will work. But first I had to install two ventilators which are going from the panorama to the main deck. Cut out the boats. And now as done for years – to build the life saving boats. The part which was scored in the longitudinal direc- tion will be rounded by placing it on the rubber and move it with the round log. Now butt glue it and form with the finger. I scanned in the boats. The flaps made out of grey cardboard and a thickness of 3 mm cut out by eye. printed out on cardboard – trial assembly without cut outs – Persening scanned in. colored removed and in grey mod printed on grey cardboard. I decided to work on the stern with the galery of stairs.
you need two tools: a tweezer and a pincer. which are in my opninion the most delicate parts. The cutting generates forces onto the delicate parts which could cause bending. That‘s why I placed a plastic stripe on the cut of the part to be cut out and press the part out with a knife.Page 35 The Transatlantic Paper Model Magazine about how to work with the. For the stairs. paralell edges. I did make the expiernence . I hope the picture illustrate how I did it. Such a pincer is very good to bend a straight edge and fold. Important is to always use the stronger parts as lever. . A pincer which has precise. After all this filligrane parts are on board everything else is almost going by itself. You can really not call this cutting. particular how to shape the stairs. that photoetch parts are very difficult to handle freehand.
the kit comes in a nice A4 booklet format.see Picture 2 came from four or five different pages. This may look a problem but. but it would be a little easier if the pages were one after the other. You have to find out yourself how to move ahead. it is not. It is no surprise too see that it is also one of the first (Nº4) kits from L’Instant Durable – Collection Architecture Modélisme. Anyone asking if I forgot the diagrams? Well. plus the base. a brief history of the site. This is very helpful because the parts are not arranged in the order of assembly. The kit was first published in 1987. as it is the case with more recent kits from this stable.Volume 1. Issue 1 Page 36 Ricardo Leite Notre Dame Instant Durable Notre-Dame de Paris is. for sure. It includes. too. some general tips for assembly and some hints about the assembly order that I consciously choose to overlook…The kit contains exactly 300 parts. spread over 26 A4 pages. Picture 1: The Kit It looks big and it is big! Over one and a half square meters of paper to cut. This is hardly surprising. half of which is taken by black (or rather brown) and white pictures of a completed model. and the name tells what they are. however. as three of them are huge. I think it is one of the prettiest. Picture 2—Parts for the Tower . interestingly enough. The parts are clearly marked and. I didn’t because there are no diagrams. dated 1992. I decided to start with the bulk of the two towers and the small number of parts involved . The one I built is a reprint. fold and glue. You can see almost all that in Picture 1. some small sketches to show how fold and glue certain parts. Personally. and also a number. in several languages. one of the world’s most famous cathedrals. This one is printed in a A2 sized sheet of paper. quite frankly. groups of parts have a name. As usual with L’Instant Durable. There are.
The paper is semi-gloss with the correct thickness.see Picture 5 – and they look quite well. as well as the assembly with the front doors.Page 37 The Transatlantic Paper Model Magazine The bigger wall parts are already in place .Decorating the Towers . Note the Picture 6 . In Picture 6 the buttresses are already there. I find it very friendly to my trusty UHU all purpose glue. Picture 3 — Card bits to shape Paper Time to start decorating the towers. Picture 4 . Apparently hand painted and very pretty.Ready to glue The graphic and print quality can already be seen in Picture 2. In Picture 3 you see the towers in place and work in progress in the middle of the cathedral.
Well. as the upper part didn’t fit well. It is visible. Issue 1 Page 38 I had a serious problem with the main door. cut the tabs of the faulty part. trim them and glue over the new ones. The solution was to make new (unpainted) parts.Volume 1. almost. The difference in curvature is not too big and trimming proved adequate. glue them.Front Doors Picture 8 . You’ll find it latter on. of course. if you look carefully at Picture 6. It tended to bulge the 3 door assembly. Picture 7 . cut it in two. The left and right parts were just fine. I found the same kind of problem in the corresponding parts for the main left and right walls and applied the same solution.Roof and watches .
The error is too big to just trim the parts.Staircase towers . Anyway. again. to the right of the door. can be seen in Picture 9. it can be solved in a satisfactory way. In Picture 11. they make up a lot of parts – see Picture 10. about the upper parts for the main left and right doors. There is no Gothic cathedral without flying buttresses and. In Picture 12 you can see the forward buttresses assembled. a bit to the left: they are much too small and I had Picture 9 . My apologies for the appalling quality of Picture 11 (it was taken at night) but I could not left this one out. This is a strange error. The same method was used for the other side of the door. as well as for the door on the other side.Buttresses and flying buttresses tor? Well. and glue them one by one. and the smaller rear ones pre-processed and ready to glue. left and right of the towers. because the surfaces are simple conical ones. as could be expected. and you can check the curvature of the kit parts is quite simply wrong. Note. taking advantage of the way they are painted. The unpainted parts I made are in place. as I did with the front door. 4 bits are in place and 3 more are waiting. It sows both the problem and the solution I mentioned before. the use of card bits to get everything into its proper shape before gluing.Page 39 The Transatlantic Paper Model Magazine The staircases. I choose to cut them into small bits. If you intend to build this model don’t glue the 2x3 V shaped flying buttresses that appear in the bottom of Picture 12. maybe. Gremlins on the calculaPicture 10 .
I used the given. in Picture 13. of course.Volume 1. The method is to draw one of each (they are only two) and copy them three times. The white parts were drawn by me. but not before a lot of work… Look at Picture 14 to see what I mean. Issue 1 Page 40 Most of the parts of Picture 12 are in place.Part for the small rear buttresses .Side Door Picture 12 . The gaps remaining are to be filled by the faulty parts. parts to cover the white ones and hand painted Picture 11 . In the middle of the picture you can check that the kit parts are not as big as they should be. painted.
The big rear butAfter gluing them. Another. to ensure that the last octagonal part (larger then the other two). I made some card parts. A significant task is to cut out the windows in the spike: 32 little bits of paper to remove. pretty annoying but not too serious. The result is quite acceptable – see Picture 15. To justify the work. is for the top of the lower part of the spike. one. with the same size.Small rear buttresses This was the last problem I had with this kit. in order to be painted on both sides. tresses did fit very well.Page 41 The Transatlantic Paper Model Magazine the remaining bits with soft pencils. I choose to cut them partially before folding and gluing. They are all too obvious in Picture 17. another one taken at night. Only after. somewhat to my surprise – see the parts for them in Picture 16. solid. Also in Picture 17 are the parts for the statues. Again. This is a very spectacular piece of Architecture! In the kit it . the only task left is the spike. the remaining white bits were removed. and also to put everything into its correct shape. but it is only a simple. I advise you to cut the main part in two. is horizontal. They have two faces. The inside painting is also not part of the kit. for the inside. contains only five parts. Picture 14 . four of them for the surrounding statues. One of the octagonal bits is for the base of the upper part of the spike.Some corrections Picture 13 . The 8 rectangular bits were glued inside. as it makes the assembly both easier and more precise. that serves as the floor of the lower windows.
Volume 1. Make sure you have free Picture 17 .Parts for the Spike .Part for the big. upper rear buttresses Let me conclude this review with some detail pictures and some others of the whole model. Issue 1 Page 42 Picture 16 .
Page 43 The Transatlantic Paper Model Magazine .
This models is different. The models comes in German and English language. .H. 12 pages of 3 D diagrams make it much easier to build such a complex model. What I like most is the clarity of the instructions. Reimers under Reimers Modellbaubogen. although the instructions make it mauch easier to build this model. The scale is 1:50 and the kits has 565 parts. cradle with movable wheels and extra color fields. Particular planes models come usually with minimal instructions and it is up to the builder to guess where each part belongs. This is an exceptional model. movable control surfaces. The print and paper quality is excellent. The model includes a detailed cockpit. The kit comes as a booklet in the format of 300 mm x 210 mm. Backcover Inside the cover page . The models will provide some building time and it requires some expierence to build this model. The Dornier Do 26 was a longrange mail flying boat for transatlantic flights and was the most beautiful flying boat developed by Dornier.Page 44 The Transatlantic Paper Model Magazine Detail Kit Review Dornier DO 26 V1 “White –tailed eagle” Four Engined Transocean Flying Boat The model is published by the designer K. The length of the model is 500 mm. Reimers is specializing in rare models. rotating propeller. I really recommend this model if you are looking for an unusual and very nice designed model. Sample of the instructions Sample page from the kit The kit contains 16 pages of parts and 12 pages of diagram instructions.
Some diagrams are included and an experienced modeler will find his way through. The instructions are in Polish only and some diagrams are included.Volume 1. This is one of the most detailed submarine models I know. Edifice Aldred and the New York life insurance building. This model of the Place d’Armes in Montreal comes in . The printing quality is good. The underwater hull is water blue and the rest of the hull grey. the Duluth building and the great Scottish Life insurance building to name a few. The model is not too difficult to build and it is a nice arrangement of the historical building of the Place d’Armes.Supermarine Spitfire VB two parts. The model does not have too many details. Issue 1 Page 45 New Kits released Halinski . The details are: The Supermarine Spitfire from Halinski is again a plane model in highest quality. The instructions are unfortunately only in Polish. The size of the completed arrangement is 50 cm x 55 cm x 35 cm. Rocket of the submarine can be build as well. The second part contains the old Sulpician seminary. The first part contains the Basilique Notre. World War. This model certainly requires experience to build and with some 676 parts this is a real nice submarine Orlik — Sopwith Triplane The new release of Orlik is British Fighter from the I.The kit is in English and French language and includes detailed is very detailed and offer therefore good value for the money. The model include the interior of the Basilique Notre. I like particularly the wood coloring. The photographic building instruction are very helpful. The model is very detailed and includes the Cockpit Interior. The printing quality is good. The colors and details of this model are very nice. • • • • • Scale: 1:25 Parts: 1213 Sheets: 7 Size : 323 mm Difficulty: difficult Adore Submarine Class Typhoon • • • • • Scale: 1:300 Parts: around 100 Sheets: 10 Size : 550 mm Difficulty: medium Adore has published the Soviet Nuclear Submarine Red September. The instruction consist of a number of photos and general building instructions. the bank of Montreal. The kit includes the cockpit interior. The coloring is excellent and aged. This Orlik models Collection Arc is new Canadian Publisher in our program. • Scale: 1:33 • Parts: 512 • Sheets: 5 • Size : 340 mm • Difficulty: medium Collection Arc— Place D’Armes architectural and historic information.
This is a full hull model. English and German.Greek Bireme Scale: 1:200 Parts: 676 Sheets: 12 Format: 42 cm x 30 cm Size : 858 mm Difficulty: difficult Schreiber Verlag — Berliner Dom The main tank Challenger-2 is one of the most advanced tanks of the third generation on Nato. . The GPM models include now also an English instruction and diagrams to help the expierence builder to make this model. The printing quality and the detail level are very good. also know as A-I Type. She was an Admirality Type G-class destroyer. Because of dilapidation Friedrich the Great pulled down the cathedral in 18th century and new Baroque building build where it now stands on the Spree island. Instructions are in Polish. • Scale: 1:100 • Parts: 239 • Sheets: 3 • Format: 21 cm x 30 cm • Size : 858 mm • Difficulty: medium • • • • • • Scale: 1:25 Parts: 2025 Sheets: 13 Format: 42 cm x 30 cm Size : 450 mm Difficulty: difficult GPM — HMS Glowworn • • • • • Scale: 1:300 Parts: 271 Sheets: 10 Size : 330 mm Difficulty: difficult GPM — Challenger—2 The Glowworm keel was laid down by Thornycroft in 1934. Coloring and print quality are excellent. The model requires some experience but is not too difficult to build. This models is just released to the 100 year Jubilee of the Building. This model has a really lovely coloration and excellent print quality. My son is trying to build one right now and we will see how it goes. The model requires a more experienced model builder. The expression Bireme comes from Latin and means that the oars are arranged in two rows above each other on both sides. The Berlin Dom (Berlin Cathedral). The model is highly detailed. This model is the version used by the 2nd Royal tank regiment Iraq 2003. The instructions are in English and German. The model kit has an excellent coloring and particular the wood coloring scheme is very beautiful. The history of this church really begins in the 15th century when Pope Paul II raised a chapel in the castle to a cathedral church. The oldest Bireme so far discovered originates from the 7th century BC. Glowworm sank and went down in history after her heroic fight and ramming the heavy cruiser Admiral Hipper. The present cathedral had been build in the years 1894 to 1905 on orders by Emperor Wilhelm II.Page 46 The Transatlantic Paper Model Magazine • • • • • • Schreiber Verlag . It fought its first battles in 1995 in former Yugoslavia during operational service. The kit includes sufficient cardboard for any required lamination. This model is certainly not suitable for a beginner. A Bireme is a warship from the antiquity and is considered to be one of the first longboats used for journeys on sea. Another model of the new series of antique ships from the Schreiber Verlag from Germany.
Experience is definitely required. You have to build based on Diagrams.Tre Kronor The large cruiser Derfflinger was taken into service in 1914. The printing quality is good. The illustrations have much improved with JSC . The model comes with the two platform to build the models on. Based on previous experience it could be a year until it will become available. The ship was sank in 1919 by the Germans itself to prevent it to come into the hand of the victory allies of WWI. The model can be build with a photo etch kit. German and Polish Instructions. Particular in the area of civil cars and trucks we do not see too many models and the ones coming out are often more simplistic. here is one. If you up for an challenge.M.Schleswig Holstein • • • • • • Scale: 1:250 Parts: 3516 Sheets: 34 Format: 21 cm x 30 cm Size : 850 mm Difficulty: very difficult The coastal batteries Schleswig Holstein and Lindemann were the heaviest bat- good quality and not to difficult to build.185 HMV — S. Not in this case this models is really detailed and nice designed. The model can be build as water line of full hull model JSC . This is a high detailed model and requires a lot of experience. The print quality is excellent and the 3 Diagrams are very nice to look at . which is unfortunately at this time not available yet. The model includes the interior as well as the crane is moveable. • Scale: 1:25 • Parts: 784 • Sheets: 7 • Format: 42 cm x 30 cm • Size : 376 mm • Difficulty: difficult JSC .S Derfflinger • • • • • Scale: 1:400 Sheets: 14 Format: 21 cm x 30 cm Size : 400 mm Difficulty: medium JSC has released two Swedish cruiser in This crane truck model is worth mentioning. I hope it will not hide to many location of the parts which have to be guessed at the time of building. • • • • • Scale: 1:200 Sheets: 6 Format: 21 cm x 30 cm Size : 500 mm Difficulty: difficult Modelik — Star 12. The models come with English. The kit includes a crane and a train. The print quality is good.Volume 1. Issue 1 Page 47 teries of the Atlantic Wall. The ship took part in the battle of Skagerrak.
com .Lighthouse Model Art Tel: 905 883 1044 Fax: 905 883 1045 Emai: info@lighthousemodelart.
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