Escape to…

Florence
Italian I-Spy
It’s much easier than hunting for rhinos in a 4x4, says Alex inside. The best way to appreciate it is to
first take a stroll around the outside and
Johnson. And the ice-cream and pizza taste much nicer too. admire its white and green striped marbling
as well as its ornate Gothic façade. Then
head inside and climb the 460 steps up to the

W
hen you go on a
game safari, the aim
is usually to tick off
the big name ani-
mals: if you miss
one then you’ll be
disappointed. And it’s usually the same
approach when you’re visiting cities like
London, New York or Paris. Florence –
Firenze - is no different and while there is
much to be said for getting off the beaten
track and finding a few offbeat gems (see
over), the truth is that most visitors and
first-timers in particular will want to catch
the lions, tigers and elephants.
The good news is that Florence is not a
vast city, more like Madrid in terms of its
compactness than many other short haul
destinations. It’s easy to walk around most
of the attractions in the centre and while it’s
a lovely place to spend a week or so, it’s also
perfect for a long weekend break – 48 hours
spent wisely in Florence can be very enjoy-
able indeed.
In terms of big game, you really need to
bag the vast Duomo of Santa
Maria del Fiore which can
hold up to 20,000 people
top of the dome for truly spectacular views
of the city.
One of Florence’s tigers is certainly the
Uffizi Gallery where you can gorge yourself
on the best of Rennaissance art
(www.uffizi.firenze.it - there’s a particular-
ly useful virtual tour option on the site).
Although all the big hitters have works here –
Titian (Venus of Urbino), Raphael (Madonna
del Cardellino), Michelangelo (Adoration of
the Magi) – you should head for the room full
of Boticelli’s paintings. Everybody else will
be heading in the same direction too but that’s
because they all quite rightly want to see his

I The Florence skyline

The Travel & Leisure Magazine 29

 Offbeat gems
There are more museums in Florence
than you’ve had crispy pizzas and if you
have the time it’s worth checking out
some of the lesser known ones where
you won’t have to battle with crowds
but can still see some masterpieces. A
great first stop is the The Museums of
Florence web site
(www.museumsinflorence.com). For
example, arguably the city’s finest
frescos are in the Chapel of the Magi in
the recently renovated Medici-Riccardi
Palace at 3 Via Cavour (www.palazzo-
medici.it - site also available in English)
which also has excellent temporary
exhibitions.
Keen gardeners should head towards
Jon Rawlinson

the also recently – and sensitively -

restored Villa La Pietra and its eight
acres of garden, once the home of
noted writer Harold Acton and now run famous pieces Spring and The Birth of Venus, than a collection of sights, however mar-
as a study and conference centre by vellous. Where you stay is as much a part
historically important as well as beautiful. It’s
New York University. Its terraced ‘room’ not open on Mondays and it’s a good idea to of the experience as what you see and so
concept makes for a varied visit and book ahead if possible to avoid the often it’s a good idea to choose carefully. Film
there are some very attractive enormous queues. buffs may well want to head for the Degli
sculptures and temples along the way Orafi, made famous on the big screen in A
harking back to the English picturesque
gardens of the 18th century and further
‘...but still very Room with a View. Indeed, you can even
stay in the eponymous room (414)
back to the Renaissance, a period about
which Action was an expert. It’s just
much a must-see which was used for loctation shots
and which also has a balcony
outside the centre of Florence and
there are regular guided tours but check
are the Boboli (www.hoteldegliorafi.it).
A rather splendid option are
the eight Riva Lofts studios
the site (www.nyu.edu/lapietra) for
details as you do need to reserve. gardens which which offer full hotel serv-
If you have a little longer to spend ice as well as your own
here, very central British Institute of were first laid out kitchen and a huge but
Florence (www.britishinstitute.it) has cosy communal sitting room.
a range of short and long language or in the 16th cen- These are about 15 minutes out-
history of art courses which are also side the city, although they do
very sociable.They can also help with
sorting out budget accommodation
tury behind the have bicycles so you can whizz
in easily (www.rivalofts.com).
including homestays. And don’t forget
that you don’t have to spend your
Pitti Palace...’ More central, in fact very central
indeed to both the Uffizi and
holiday looking at what other people More of a giraffe maybe than a lion but the railway station, is the
have done.Why not pick up your paint still very much a must-see are the Boboli two-star Hotel Casci
brushes again and take a painting gardens which were first laid out in the 16th (www.hotelcasci.com)
holiday? Painting in Italy century behind the Pitti Palace which was which is in a 15th century
(www.paintinginitaly.com) are one of the home of the Medici rulers. It’s a lovely palace, has some original
several companies who provided place to walk through, has some attractive frescos on its ceilings
tutored courses based in and around sculpture and boasts a beautiful avenue of and was once owned
Florence which also feature excursions cypress trees which seems to go on for- by the composer
and history of art lectures by experts. ever. Again, like many attractions in Rossini. And if
Florence, it’s often shut on Mondays. you like your
But there’s far more to Florence I Michelangelo’s David Rober Scarth food, try the

30 The Travel & Leisure Magazine

 I The River Arno flowing through Florence

Teri’s
Top
Tips
If you think all Odeons are the same,
think again. Florence has a truly lovely
old-fashioned cinema in the Odeon
which, if it’s rainy or you just feel like a
rest (or you simply fancy a trip to the
flicks) is a lovely holiday experience in
itself. Right in the centre of the city at
Piazza Strozzi 2 (www.cinehall.it), the
Odeon has a fabulous domed ceiling
and a gorgous interior more opera
house than fleapit. It shows both Italian
and foreign language films but have a
look at the schedules in advance if you
want something dubbed/subtitled.

very friendly Le Stanze di Santa Croce

(www.viapinzochere6.it) which also offers
cookery lessons with guided shopping expe-
ditions through the local markets.
Indeed, Florence is a wonderful place to
eat and drink in general or simply hang out
in a café to do some serious people-watch-
Ami Shah

ing. If you’d rather have a whizz around a I The Boboli Gardens

market all by yourself, then head for the

The Travel & Leisure Magazine 31

 Outside Florence
While Florence has plenty to keep you
busy, it’s also a great base for day trip
exploring. Rightly one of the most popular
destinations is Fiesole, with its Roman
amphitheatre, 11th century duomo and
really lovely views from its hillside
position. It’s easy to get to by bus number
7 and is just 25 minutes away - you can
fairly easily walk back down the hill at the
end of the day. Although it’s hotter during
the summer, it’s also a good time to soak
up its cultural atmosphere as it puts on
several months of theatre, opera, film and

Colin Rose
ballet spectaculars as part of its annual
I Fiesole rooftops Estate Fiesolana celebrations.

Sant’ Ambrogio food market which has a

YOUR Florence Facts great selection of fresh fruit, bread and
cheeses (and much, much more) daily every
At the risk of getting too poetic, the city shines with colour in the sum- morning. For a light snack, a glass of reviv-
mer but if you can hang on until the late autumn or winter, you won’t ing wine and a short rest as you wander
have to share the city with quite so many other perspiring visitors, the around, try one of the great value mini wine
queues will be considerably shorter for the major attractions and the bars which dot the city such as I Fratellini at
overall feel of the city is a bit less hectic. Like many cities in Germany, 38r Via dei Cimatori: a particular favourite is
Florence has a lovely Christmas market during December. the cinghiale piccante con caprino (spicy
 If you’re flying to Florence, you’ll find that many airlines actually go to wild boar sausage with goat cheese). And for
nearby Pisa from where you can catch a cheap and fast direct train something a little more substantial, Cibreino
easily to Florence. Meridiana (www.meridiana.it) though flies from at 122 Via dei Macci offers marvellous local
Gatwick to Florence’s titchy Vespucci airport, a couple of miles from delicacies on unpretentious wooden tables (if
the city centre with regular shuttle buses into town. Other operators you want to really splash out, its sister restau-
flying to Pisa include British Airways (www.ba.com) from Manchester rant Cibrèo is close by serving largely the
and Gatwick and Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) from Stansted. If you same things at higher prices).
are thinking of going by train, have a look at The Man in Seat Sixty- If you’re travelling to Florence, you’ll
One (www.seat61.com/) who has also just brought out a book of obviously want to spend as long as possible
the site which is also very helpful. there but on the basis that travelling hopeful-
 When in Florence, do as Florentines do, especially when it comes to ly is just as good as arriving (to slightly mis-
shopping. Fill your boots – and bags – at big name stores such as quote Robert Louis Stevenson) and you’re
Prada and Armani which populate the Via Tornabuoni. For something a not pushed for time, consider taking the
little different but still very Italian, take a wander around the Santa train. It’s an easy route – Eurostar
Croce area where there are many intriguing independent shops. (www.eurostar.com) from London to
 For more information about the city go to www.firenzeturismo.it Paris, 30 minute taxi trip across the city, then
overnight on the Palatino sleeper to Florence
WHERE TO STAY (www.uffizi.firenze.it) (www.artesia.eu), with a short connecting
Degli Orafi, hotel The Museums of Florence web site train to Florence’s main station. Naturally
(www.hoteldegliorafi.it) (www.museumsinflorence.com) there’s a good value dining car on board the
Riva Lofts studios Medici-Riccardi Palace at 3 Via sleeper. And what could be nicer than leav-
(www.rivalofts.com) Cavour (www.palazzo-medici.it) ing rainy London one day and waking up in
Hotel Casci Villa La Pietra the lovely Firenze the next morning?
(www.hotelcasci.com) (www.nyu.edu/lapietra)
Le Stanze di Santa Croce British Institute of Florence Alex Johnson first visited Florence as an
(www.viapinzochere6.it) (www.britishinstitute.it) unemployed student, next during his
honeymoon and most recently to help
Painting in Italy compile the AA Key Guide to Italy.Vivoli in
WHAT TO SEE (www.paintinginitaly.com) Santa Croce is still his favourite ice cream
The Uffizi Gallery Odeon cinema (www.cinehall.it) shop.
TL

32 The Travel & Leisure Magazine

Coming Next YOUR subscription page
Subscribe to the
The Travel & Leisure
Magazine and claim
your FREE Travel
Guide or Craft Book
Don’t Miss Out on our Winter Issue Of FREE Books For the first 20 New Subscribers…

AND The Travel & Leisure Magazine delivered to your door

ABSOLUTELY FREE – the first 20 new subscribers will also
receive a highly desirable Travel/Craft book (worth at least £10)
PLUS – The Chance to WIN Fabulous Holidays
W 20 SU
IN 0 E
TE 8
IS

PLUS – Great Reader Giveaways and Special Offers

R

How To Order
COMING IN THE NEXT ISSUE Simply call our Credit Card Order Line 020 8554 4456
(9am–5pm Monday to Friday) and quote reference T&L0908
GETTING TO KNOW - MEXICO OR complete the coupon below and send it, with your payment, to:
HASTA LA VISTA & ALL THAT
Travel & Leisure Magazines Ltd. First Floor, 114 Cranbrook Road, Ilford,
Essex IGI 4LZ - Your subscription will start with the December 2008 issue.
A WEALTH OF
WINTER HEALTH
THE TRAVEL & LEISURE MAGAZINE
ON YOUR DOORSTEP - SPECIAL SUBSCRIPTION OFFER -
DEVON 4 issues for just £5 Save £3
Those Cream Teas Await You
I I would like a subscription
PLUS MY DETAILS
FAB FOOD Mr/Mrs/Miss/Other Initial Surname
& Address
BEST BAKES
ADVENTURE Postcode Telephone (optional)
TRAVEL - INDIA E-mail Date of birth (optional)
Land of Ghats & Gurus Please ensure you have completed the details as payee on the form above
I wish to pay by (please tick) Reference T&L0908
ESCAPE TO - NEW YORK I Cheque/Postal Order for £ Cheques payable to:
Tune In To Time Square; Travel & Leisure Magazine Ltd. Please print your name and address on
the back of your cheque.
THIS SEASON’S GARDEN I Please charge £ to my credit/charge card (please tick below)
All about the Christmas folklore in your garden
Visa I MasterCard I Delta I Switch I
GOLF Card number
focus on Wales, Celtic Manor, host of the Ryder Cup

Expiry date Valid from

Plus Issue number (Switch only) Security code

(Last 3 digits on signature panel)
All our great special offers, competitions
Signature
and giveaways just for you Date

Out December ’08 Please tick here if you do not wish to receive promotional offers from other companies I