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Collars

BY
VIGNESHWARAN.S
Square Collar
Partial Roll Collar
Full Roll Collar
CONVERTIBLE COLLARS
Shakespeare Collar
• The Roll or Shawl Collar (Fig. 168)

• 1 is the first button position.


• 2 is the front neck point.
• 3 is the usual stand height from 2 =
1 inch.
• Rule the crease line through from
1 to 3 and 4.
• 4 from 3 = the back neck width
plus ¼ inch.
• 5 is located where the crease line
from 1 to 4 intersects the gorge run
from 2 to the end of the lapel.
• 6 from 4 = ½ inch.
• Join 5 to 6 in a straight line for the
crease line of the collar.
• 7 squared back from 6 equals the
stand height plus ¼ inch = 1¼
inches.
• Square up from 6 to 8 the depth of
the fall required, 1¾ inches plus ¼
inch, i.e. 2 inches.
• 9 from 8 = ½ inch of spring. Shape
from 9 to 6 and 7.
• 10 is the lapel end.
• 11 from 10 = two seams or ½ inch.
• 12 from 5 = two seams or ½ inch.
Shape the stand edge from 11 to 12
and 7.
• Shape the fall edge from 11, 8 and 9.
• The dash lines from 1 to 13 and 10
indicate the shape of a smart roll lapel
as cut at the moment.
– The facing and top-collar combined are
cut to follow the shape of the lapel and
collar from 1 to 10 and 9, plus a
suitable allowance for making-up
purposes and turning out the facing.
• Cut the centre back seam of the facing
identical with the collar from 9 to 6 and
7.
• Shape from 7 to 14 identically with the
collar stand and continue the facing
run back from 14 to 15 on the breast
line down to 16, 17 and the bottom
edge to complete the shape of the
facing.