This action might not be possible to undo. Are you sure you want to continue?
Your insider’s guide to exploring the Mother City
Choose from over 100 must-see attractions and customise your own itinerary
Fold-out maps included
Toast Coetzer Samantha Reinders
KEY TO CITY CENTRE MAP
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9.2 10 11.2 12 13 14 15.1 15.2 16 17 18.1 18.2 18.3 18.4 19 20 21 22 23 24.1 24.2 25 26 27.1 27.2 29 31.1
Table Mountain – Lower Cable Station V&A Waterfront – Shopping centre Long Street The Castle of Good Hope Sea Point Promenade Kayaking – Three Anchor Bay Shop for diamonds – Foreshore Two Oceans Aquarium Jazz – The Green Dolphin Sunset cruise Soccer – Green Point Stadium Yachting Afternoon tea at the Mount Nelson Hotel The Adderley Street Flower Market Harley’s Liquor and Wine Specialist Caroline’s Fine Wine Cellar The Bo-Kaap The Company Gardens Museum – Slave Lodge SA Holocaust Centre District Six Museum SA Museum Open-top bus tours depart from here The Noon Gun Long Street Baths The Labia Theatre Kloof Street Giovanni’s Deliworld Melissa’s Food Shop De Waterkant Clifton Sea Point – Venezia Gelateria Sea Point – Ocean View Drive Sea Point Pool Architecture – Cape Town City Hall
31.2 31.4 32.1 32.2 33 34 35 36 42.1 42.2 43.1 43.2 48.1 49 51 58 69.1 69.2 74 75 76 77 79 81.1 84 85 86 98.1 98.2
Architecture – Koopmans-De Wet House Architecture – The Blue Lodge Local food – Mariam’s Kitchen Local food – The Noon Gun Tea Room Best fish and chips – Lusitania Fisheries Greenmarket Square African restaurant – Mama Africa Oishii Fusion Sushi Bar The Intimate Theatre Theatre – Artscape Local music – Mercury Live Local music – Mabu Vinyl Hiking – Table Mountain Lion’s Head – Easy walk Signal Hill – View point Motor Classic Rentals Annual Kaapse Klopse festival – Rose Street Annual jazz festival – Cape Town International Convention Centre The Arabella Spa Zenzero – Yoga studio African art – Pan African Market Cape Town Station – Minibus taxi rank Internet café – Café Neo Best coffee in town – Anthony’s Golden Cup Bascule Whisky Bar Bar and boogie spot – LB’s Cocktail bar – Wakame Places of worship – Moravian Church Places of worship – Al-Azhar Mosque
103.1 Best bookshops – Clarke’s Bookshop 103.2 Best bookshops – The Book Lounge 104.2 Extreme sports – Paragliding off Lion’s Head 104.4 Extreme sports – Abseiling off Table Mountain
CITY CENTRE MAP
For Montgomery Cooper
First published in 2009 Sunbird Publishers (Pty) Ltd PO Box 6836 Roggebaai 8012 Cape Town, South Africa www.sunbirdpublishers.co.za Registration number: 1984/003543/07 Copyright published edition © Sunbird Publishers Copyright text © Toast Coetzer Copyright images © Samantha Reinders (unless otherwise indicated)
Cover design, typesetting and reproduction by MR Design Printed and bound by Star Standard Industries Pte Ltd (Singapore) All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the copyright owner(s). ISBN 978-1-919938-86-8 While every last effort has been made to check that the information in this guide is correct at the time of going to press, the publisher, author and their agents will not be held liable for any damages incurred through any inaccuracies.
Additional photography by Yunus Mohamed (p 136), David Harrison (p 138), Jon Minster (p 69) and Suzette Minster (p 211).
Toast Coetzer Samantha Reinders
CONTENTS Welcome to Cape Town! How this book works Itineraries 006 008 009 014 016 018 021 022 024 025 026 030 031 034 036 037 038 039 040 044 046 050 051 052 053 054 056 058 059 062 KEY 28 KEY 29 KEY 30 KEY 31 KEY 32 KEY 33 KEY 34 KEY 35 KEY 36 KEY 37 KEY 38 KEY 39 KEY 40 KEY 41 KEY 42 KEY 43 KEY 44 KEY 45 KEY 46 KEY 47 KEY 48 KEY 49 KEY 50 KEY 51 KEY 52 KEY 53 KEY 54 KEY 55 KEY 56 KEY 57 Camps Bay Sea Point Pool Diving Architecture Local food Best fish and chips Greenmarket Square African restaurants Sushi Cricket Rugby Fresh food and fruits Alternative markets Art galleries Theatre Local music Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden Blouberg beach walk Llandudno Township tour Hiking Table Mountain Walk up Lion’s Head Breakfast at Rhodes Memorial Signal Hill Sundowners at the Blue Peter Chapman’s Peak Robben Island Hout Bay Ratanga Junction Surfing 064 068 069 070 072 074 075 078 079 080 081 082 083 086 087 088 090 092 093 096 098 099 100 101 104 105 106 108 112 113 KEY 01 KEY 02 KEY 03 KEY 04 KEY 05 KEY 06 KEY 07 KEY 08 KEY 09 KEY 10 KEY 11 KEY 12 KEY 13 KEY 14 KEY 15 KEY 16 KEY 17 KEY 18 KEY 19 KEY 20 KEY 21 KEY 22 KEY 23 KEY 24 KEY 25 KEY 26 KEY 27 Table Mountain V&A Waterfront Long Street The Castle of Good Hope Sea Point Promenade Kayaking Shop for diamonds Two Oceans Aquarium Jazz Sunset cruise Soccer Yachting Afternoon tea at the Mount Nelson The Adderley Street Flower Market Party tips The Bo-Kaap The Company Gardens Museums of the city Cape Town by open-top bus The Noon Gun Long Street Baths The Labia Theatre Kloof Street Delis De Waterkant Clifton Sea Point .
Somerset West & Strand Scenic drive to Rooiels Butterfly World Cape Point Imhoff Farm Visit an ostrich farm Scratch Patch Places of worship Kalk Bay Theatre 169 170 171 172 176 177 178 182 184 185 186 188 189 190 191 192 194 198 200 202 203 204 205 208 209 210 214 215 218 220 KEY 100 Casinos KEY 101 The best braai spots KEY 102 Bain’s Kloof Pass KEY 103 The best bookshops KEY 104 Extreme sports KEY 105 Franschhoek KEY 106 West Coast National Park KEY 107 Yzerfontein KEY 108 West Coast Fossil Park KEY 109 Velddrif KEY 110 Paternoster KEY 111 See the Big Five KEY 112 Die Strandloper beach restaurant KEY 113 Hermanus whale watching KEY 114 Shark cage diving KEY 115 Cape Agulhas and the Overberg Restaurants Index .KEY 58 KEY 59 KEY 60 KEY 61 KEY 62 KEY 63 KEY 64 KEY 65 KEY 66 KEY 67 KEY 68 KEY 69 KEY 70 KEY 71 KEY 72 KEY 73 KEY 74 KEY 75 KEY 76 KEY 77 KEY 78 KEY 79 KEY 80 KEY 81 KEY 82 KEY 83 KEY 84 KEY 85 KEY 86 KEY 87 Cruise around in a classic African penguins at Boulders Voortrekker Road The World of Birds Kalk Bay Golf Horse riding at Noordhoek Fish Hoek Darling The Winelands Simon’s Town Annual events Paarl Stellenbosch Muizenberg Groot Constantia Spas Exercising in the city African art Take the minibus taxi Freshwater fishing Internet cafés Hang out at Mzoli’s The best coffee shops Observatory Spier Whisky bars Bars for everyone Cocktail bars Sea fishing 116 117 118 120 122 126 127 128 129 130 134 136 140 142 148 150 151 152 153 154 155 156 157 160 162 164 165 166 167 168 KEY 88 KEY 89 KEY 90 KEY 91 KEY 92 KEY 93 KEY 94 KEY 95 KEY 96 KEY 97 KEY 98 KEY 99 Kommetjie Birding Walk with baboons Gordon’s Bay.
with very few heavily built up areas or high-rises. blows frequently (more in some areas than others) and is welcomed as it rids the city of air pollution. except in the city centre. During winter. Summers are long and can last from October to May. Be very. a hat. sunglasses and good sunscreen are essential. but most locals will be able to communicate with you in English. For safety’s sake. because anything less just isn’t . very careful in the sun – severe sunburn can spoil your holiday within one hour. The average maximum summer temperature is 26 ºC. Cape Town is South Africa’s second largest city. Rainfall around the peninsula varies between 500 mm and 1 500 mm per year. the most conveniently situated ones being in the V&A Waterfront shopping complex. Informal car guards can be tipped to your discretion. but the hottest months generally are February and March. with an average minimum temperature of 7 ºC. Tipping in bars is usually limited to leaving your change on the counter for the barman to claim. a tip of a few silver coins would be appreciated. Tipping in sit-down restaurants is 10%. with the mountainous areas receiving more. The south-easterly wind. but they should be given at least a R2 coin. the best idea is to leave a cumulative tip for the staff who helped you during your stay. English. fondly known as the Cape Doctor. supermarkets or at fuel stations. Winters are characterised by enormous cold fronts that sweep over the peninsula one after the other. with a little more than three million inhabitants. The population is spread out over a large area. but it occasionally reaches a sweltering 40 ºC. If you want to leave a tip at the hotel or B & B. or more if the service was very good. Emergency numbers • Police Emergency 10111 (free to dial except from mobile phones) • Ambulance 10177 (free to dial except from mobile phones) • General Emergency 107 (free to dial except from mobile phones) • General Emergency 112 (free from mobile phones) • Netcare 082 911 • Groote Schuur Hospital 021 404 9111 • Somerset Hospital 021 402 6911 • City Park Hospital 021 480 6111 • Red Cross Children’s Hospital 021 658 5111 • Tygerberg Hospital 021 938 4911 • Mountain Rescue Service 021 948 9900 • Sea Rescue 021 449 3500 Money There are many bureaux de change in the city.006 FACT FILE Welcome to Cape Town! The city One of the most scenic cities in the world. Summers are dry with only very occasional thunderstorms which are often just electric storms with not much rain at all. You can leave it at reception and stipulate who should receive a share of the tip. In summer. If your fuel attendant was very efficient (there are no self-service fuel stations). It never gets too cold though. Climate The Cape Peninsula and its immediate interior has a Mediterranean climate. never carry all your cash with you. South African rand must be used for cash purchases. Automated Teller Machines (ATMs) are just about everywhere. carry only what you will need for the day. usually in shopping centres. A good spell of three clear days can be followed by rainy weather for the next five days. with wet winters and hot. Credit and debit card payments are accepted almost everywhere except informal businesses. it is always best to have a light raincoat packed into your day bag if you are going to be out and about. dry summers. The dominant wind during these months is a fierce north-westerly. Afrikaans and Xhosa are the main languages spoken in the city.
Safety You will no doubt have heard all about crime in South Africa before your arrival. Ask them if the area to which you are going is considered safe. Always tell someone at the establishment at which you are staying where you are heading and when you plan to be back. Useful numbers • Weather Bureau 082 162 • Cape Town Tourism Office 021 487 6800 and www. the best way to get around Cape Town. the peninsula and further afield is by car. and the newspaper headlines will confirm that crime is still a big problem in the country. Popular car rental companies include Tempest (021 935 8650). so care must be taken at all times. Excite (021 448 4444) and Marine Taxis (021 434 0434). Giving food to beggars and street children is generally considered better than giving them money. Nevermind! Tip: www. Howzit – is slang and means ‘Hello’ across the board. but more so at night. Cape Town is no different. com is an excellent resource for travellers.gopassport. the truth is that it actually largely blows out of the south. Thank you – Dankie (Afrikaans) and Enkosi (Xhosa). or even the southwest. Companies include Rikkis (0861 745 547). Hertz (021 935 3000) and Cape Car Hire (021 385 0445) – the numbers given are of offices at Cape Town International Airport.za • Cape Town International Airport 021 937 1200 • Passport and Visa Department of Home Affairs 021 934 0407 Speak easy: A few words in Xhosa or Afrikaans will go a long way towards making an instant friend.tourismcapetown. Metered taxis have to be called in advance to pick you up and it’s only in the busy areas of town (such as Long Street during the evening) that you can attempt to hail an empty cab from the side of the street. Keep your valuables in an inside pocket or somewhere secure. It is best to lock everything in the boot of the car.capetown.007 One of the most scenic cities in the world money anymore. Most of the city centre is perfectly safe throughout the day. Western Cape roads are relatively good and driving around by yourself is very feasible. CabXpress (021 486 1616). Never leave anything valuable lying around in clear sight in your vehicle.co. . Provided that you are comfortable with a manual gear lever (stick-shift) and driving on the left-hand side of the road. always walk in a small group. If possible. Avis (021 934 0330). Airlink Airport (021 910 1902). Getting around While the city centre can be explored on foot and metered taxis can be taken just about anywhere. Imperial (021 935 8600). Which way? While people always talk of the south-easterly wind.
or we group together keys of a similar nature which might interest a specific type of tourist. Whether you are a first-time or return visitor. In the caption of each key’s main photograph. These form ‘bunches of keys’ which can be sensibly enjoyed within a certain time frame. Or you can just follow your own nose. such as someone solely here to enjoy sport. we suggest places to eat and drink as we know that travelling is as much about living the good life as it is about being a modern-day explorer. page through the book. there are a great number of suggested day-trips to take you into the famed Cape winelands.008 THIS WAY How this book works Key to Cape Town is a guide that will help you unlock the secrets of this dynamic city. decide what looks interesting and set off to do your own thing. Some activities cost a lot of money. While the book concentrates on activities and attractions in the city centre (the city bowl). Some keys are very specific. to Hermanus for whale watching. suggesting an activity we regard as being very worthwhile of doing during your time in Cape Town and its surrounding areas. All the premier tourist destinations are covered as well as a number of unusual ones for those who like the routes less travelled. Other keys look at locations – in the city centre. page number key number map reference . Throughout. the outdoors or the arts. There are 115 ‘keys’ listed in this book. the Cape Peninsula and further afield – and what activities can be enjoyed there. The regional map at the back is there to give you an idea of the distances involved in reaching the outlying areas featured in this book. or up the West Coast in search of peace and quiet. On pp 9–13 we have listed different suggested itineraries. we trust that this guide will set you on a happy and wholesome path of discovery. The city centre map at the front of the book is more detailed and can be used as your walkabout map while you explore the city. You can use Key to Cape Town in more ways than one. each richly illustrated with photographs to give you an idea of what the location looks like or what the activity might entail. but a great number are totally free. a reference to the front or back map is made so you know where to find it in a flash. We have tried to strike a balance for people travelling on different budgets.
KEY 47 Township tour. or take the cable car. Soak up some history the next morning.009 ITINERARIES Suggested itineraries Plan your stay by using our simple guidelines 1 day You’re in town for 24 hours and it’s your first time here! KEY 01 Table Mountain by day. major landmark. Climb it if you can. . KEY 35 African restaurants. Walk where you haven’t walked before. Jive with the local hipsters. or take the cable car. KEY 10 Sunset cruise. KEY 03 Long Street by night. tick. Discover the world of the Cape Malays. KEY 48 Hiking Table Mountain. KEY 03 Long Street by night. 3 days It’s your first time here and you’ve got a couple of days to play with KEY 01 Table Mountain by day. KEY 106 West Coast National Park. Venture beyond the comfort zone. KEY 54 Robben Island. Climb it if you can. tick. 1 day You’re back in town and this time the conference ended early KEY 54 Robben Island. Dine on delicacies from the continent. KEY 113 Hermanus. KEY 02 V&A Waterfront. meet locals. dancing and comedy talent. Take a day trip to this beautiful park. See the city without any hassle. Discover local acting. With a glass of sparkling wine. KEY 05 Sea Point Promenade. KEY 34 Greenmarket Square. Go walk it off at the sea. Scenic drive. KEY 19 Open-top bus tour. 3 days A return visitor who wants to delve deeper this time around KEY 16 The Bo-Kaap. or take the cable car. Dine on delicacies from the continent. KEY 35 African restaurants. dance the night away. relaxing and inviting. Soak up some history the next morning. KEY 94 Cape Point. Scenic drive. KEY 18 Museums of the City. Lush and lively. Take in the atmosphere. KEY 54 Robben Island. Soak up some history. With a glass of sparkling wine. KEY 42 Theatre. Scenic drive en route. Dine out. 7 days Time for almost everything! KEY 01 Table Mountain by day. major landmark. KEY 03 Long Street by night. Climb it if you can. Pick your favourites. maybe even see whales. Shop for African art and meet the artists. Settle down for a meal afterwards. KEY 10 Sunset cruise. KEY 94 Cape Point. KEY 17 The Company Gardens.
KEY 18 Museums of the City. World’s greatest beach? KEY 28 Camps Bay. Drive to the southernmost point of Africa. West Coast National Park. you’ll be looking for ‘For Sale’ signs. Rest body and soul You’re on vacation and you’re not planning on checking email KEY 107 Yzerfontein. Kalk Bay. Take a day trip with stops on the way. Sniff out a Cape Town novel to snuggle up with. KEY 07 Shop for diamonds. A beautiful beach beyond belief. KEY 48 Hiking. True. the beaches and beyond. A fine sundowner spot. read a book. KEY 34 Greenmarket Square. Head to the hills. Jewellery the easy way.010 ITINERARIES KEY 23 KEY 47 KEY 62 KEY 53 KEY 82 KEY 106 Kloof Street. Everything under one roof. Cruise the short strip. Scenic drive par excellence. Discover local acting. More swim. Observatory. The world’s greatest movie theatre. Pick your favourites. More tan. KEY 110 Paternoster. dancing and comedy talent. Where to learn and where to go if you’re a pro. Endless beach. KEY 46 Llandudno. Find a quiet corner. . The party is about to commence. KEY 86 Cocktails. KEY 42 Theatre. or dine by night. Shop The suitcase is going to be over the weight-limit anyway KEY 76 African art. Get contemporary. KEY 115 Cape Agulhas. KEY 08 Two Oceans Aquarium. Where to relax in comfort and style. Township tour. KEY 52 Sunset at the Blue Peter. Talk rubbish. The underwater world revealed. KEY 41 Art galleries. Shop for African art and meet the artists. Rainy day or two The weather is foul and indoors is where it’s at KEY 22 The Labia. KEY 74 Spas. Venture beyond the comfort zone. Discover this delightful seaside town. Where to start and how to buy. Chapman’s Peak. Walk and shop by day. KEY 103 Bookshops. Hang with the locals. KEY 57 Surfing. then eat a hearty meal. KEY 29 Sea Point Pool. KEY 44 Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. Summer slam It’s summer and you’re in a hurry to get that tan KEY 26 Clifton. less swim. KEY 02 V&A Waterfront. pre-season tan.
KEY 114 Shark diving. KEY 12 Yachting. For art’s sake Evenings in the theatre. Shipwrecks and reefs around the Cape of Storms. If you’re already qualified. Peace and quiet. Paradise around the corner. . World of fun too. days in the galleries KEY 31 Architecture. On the beach. Petting zoo. craft shops and more. Get contemporary. fun folk. Set sail or learn the ropes first. KEY 95 Imhoff Farm. Out at sea. sunshine. Fear factor You’re an adrenaline junkie and you’re right out of patience KEY 104 Extreme sports. Someone has to: you! KEY 30 Diving. Beers. KEY 04 The Castle. KEY 89 Birding. KEY 38 Rugby.011 Game on! Anything with a ball will do KEY 11 Soccer. KEY 44 Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. Learn more about ancient fossils. Up close and stinky. KEY 64 Horseriding. Where to see the beautiful game. It’s a scrum! KEY 63 Golf. Rocking rides for the wild bunch. in the fynbos. KEY 93 Butterfly World. KEY 108 West Coast Fossil Park. Nature’s delight For the traveller who finds plants more interesting than people KEY 30 Diving. And they’ll walk with you. Keep them within these historic walls. Kids The children are restless KEY 56 Ratanga Junction. KEY 37 Cricket. KEY 08 Two Oceans Aquarium. Discover the mountain pathways. Where to learn and where to go if you’re a pro. Let the kids treasure-hunt for semi-precious stones. KEY 97 Scratch Patch. KEY 06 Kayaking. Swingtime. camels. everywhere. KEY 90 Walk with baboons. A fascinating glimpse into another world. From Art Deco to pretty ugly … KEY 41 Art galleries. KEY 48 Hiking Table Mountain. KEY 61 World of Birds. KEY 59 African penguins at Boulders Beach. or just want to learn. The ocean calls Enjoy the seas around the peninsula KEY 57 Surfing. There’s something here for everyone. A leisurely exploratory paddle.
KEY 75 Exercise. KEY 86 Cocktails. Rock. KEY 85 Any other bar. KEY 86 Cocktails. Don’t tell anyone. A town for flowers. You never know what they might lead to. For a little bit of classy contemplation. fine food and theatre. Why drive something boring? KEY 81 The best coffee shops. Even halfway up is the best. KEY 24 Delis. Get up close and stinky. KEY 58 Vintage cars. KEY 74 Spas. KEY 53 Chapman’s Peak. brightly painted cottages. KEY 100 Casinos. Kalk Bay Theatre. Because reaching for a book is exercise. With a view. at the beach. Yoga. really good. dancing and comedy talent. KEY 59 African penguins at Boulders Beach. KEY 51 Signal Hill. but not that active You like the outdoors. Party Did anyone say party? KEY 15 We tell you where Harley’s Liquors is. It’s good. KEY 49 Lion’s Head. in the city. Need we say more? KEY 52 Sunset at the Blue Peter. The End. KEY 92 Scenic drive to Rooiels. Where to relax in comfort. KEY 103 Bookshops. gyms and more. KEY 09 Jazz. The perfect view of Table Mountain. Easy to reach. You will know immediately if it’s for you. please! KEY 13 Afternoon tea at the Mount Nelson Hotel. Photography The best places for your photographic kicks KEY 16 The Bo-Kaap. A special evening of theatre and dining. Darling. The local grooves are here. Nice things to munch. Scenic drive par excellence along the Atlantic. Our guide to the finest ones in town. Cobbled streets.012 ITINERARIES KEY 42 KEY 66 KEY 99 Theatre. KEY 84 Whisky bar. great views over the city and mountain. Cool places to relax and mingle. KEY 25 De Waterkant. hip hop and whatnot. With a view across Table Bay. Active. . Discover local acting. All night and some of the day. Party central. but it beats Chapman’s! A life of leisure Sunset? Cocktail? Yes. at gentle speeds KEY 45 Blouberg beach walk. Music to your ears There is no band like a live band KEY 43 Local music.
KEY 105 Franschhoek. There are days when it’s caviar. Buy an old lamp or two … Five Classic Cape Keys Our choice KEY 20 Noon Gun. KEY 87 Sea fishing. Holler like a local. Lots of it. But not necessarily in that order. KEY 80 Mzoli’s. Surprise your hosts with a gift. with reason! Long stay Enough time to become a regular somewhere KEY 27 Sea Point Main Road. A town surrounded by wine farms. KEY 73 Groot Constantia. Plan around the year’s big parties. Quirky things to do You did what on your holiday? KEY 58 Cruise a classic. KEY 40 Alternative markets. meet people. And discover your inner sausage. drive and hike. drink beer. A rare treat of solitude and scenic splendour. Dine at moyo restaurant. KEY 32 Gatsby? Get a grip on local grub. The big daddy of wine farms. KEY 50 Breakfast at Rhodes Memorial. Dining For every taste there’s a table KEY 36 Sushi. dine. KEY 112 Strandloper. Where to eat and buy healthy.013 Wine The places to go. Find your favourite Korean restaurant. The raw and the beautiful. KEY 101 Braai. KEY 33 Fish and chips. Except you. the wines to choose KEY 67 The Winelands. Hire a vintage Beetle. It’s long and no tourists go there. Because it is nice. KEY 105 Franschhoek. KEY 71 Stellenbosch. Go catch your own crayfish in the Atlantic. A town famous for food. KEY 77 Minibus taxi ride. It’s twelve o’clock in the Republic! KEY 60 Voortrekker Road. The heart of the South African wine industry. Wine. Find a place to worship. KEY 70 Paarl. Eat seafood on the beach. Eat meat. KEY 98 Religion. . KEY 14 Flower sellers. KEY 69 Annual events. KEY 102 Bain’s Kloof Pass. Fine cuisine and fine wines. KEY 83 Spier. KEY 39 Fresh foodstuffs.
the guardian of the far-flung Cape. For others it is a natural treasure. a piece of architecture so superior that everything else looks like cardboard by comparison. The early pastoralist inhabitants. For yet others it is Above: Looking out over the Twelve Apostles and Camps Bay from the top of Table Mountain. It has impressed people through the ages. But more often than not. During your time spent in its shadow you will get to know its rhythms and moods which so often affect the rhythms and moods of the people who call Cape Town – the Mother City – home. Today it is many things to many different people. its iconic outline is known all over the world. Look closely and you’ll see this ‘tablecloth’ is never still. a solid talisman around which city life revolves. and the destroyer of the ships which tried to round it. called it Hoerikwaggo. as seen from near the Lower Station (see front map. key 1). the Khoi (or Khoekhoen). A 16th-century Portuguese poet called it Adamastor. Table Mountain appears hyperreal. There are baking midsummer days when the air doesn’t move and the city’s buildings. its highest point) rises virtually straight out of the ocean. For some it is a giant playground in which to hike. harbouring rare fynbos and animal life (South Africa’s rarest frogs are found here).014 TABLE MOUNTAIN SCENIC BEAUT Y KEY 01 Table Mountain Table Mountain is Cape Town’s unmovable emblem. . Like the Eiffel Tower and the pyramids of Egypt. streets and pavements just soak up the sun out of a cloudless sky. On days like this. the flat top of the mountain is covered by a seemingly frozen wave of cloud. climb and cycle. always moving. What makes the mountain so impressive is that its great height (1 087 metres at Maclear’s Beacon. Opposite: The cable car. the mountain of the sea.
Taking along a hat and sunscreen is always a good idea. but the closing time becomes earlier every month after that. South African citizens get a free ride on their birthday (bring ID along). with cars and tour buses lined up along the road at the Lower Station from early in the morning. such as discounted sunset trips. Detail: Operating hours during December and January are from 8 am to 9. reduced prices for hikers or free children’s tickets. The cableway can get very busy. there are shops. From May to September it runs between 8. as the trip lasts little longer than five minutes.015 ‘It is a natural treasure.30 am and 6 pm.30 pm. bistro and bathroom facilities. Check the website for updated offers before setting off. The first cableway to the top of the mountain was completed in 1929. and try to gauge what the weather will do. don’t be concerned that you’ll be trapped on one side of the car and unable to see the other side of the view – the cars rotate. Table Mountain Aerial Cableway on 021 424 8181 and www.’ simply something to look up at in the morning as they commute to work. a restaurant. Pack something warm as it might be colder at the top of the mountain than at the bottom. with the new cars now carrying 65 people instead of just 25.tablemountain.net . At the Upper Cableway Station. even in the late afternoon. harbouring rare fynbos and animal life. When in the cable car. There are also clearly laid-out pathways (most of which are wheelchair friendly) to take you to different viewpoints. Give yourself more than enough time and be prepared to queue during peak times – you cannot book in advance as trips are weather dependent. but the entire system was extensively upgraded in 1997. There are often special offers. It’s over all too quickly though. so you’ll see everything.
which is why people flock here at weekends. fishing trawlers offloading their catch. The Victoria and Alfred Basins provide mooring for visiting passenger liners. it lures tourists and locals alike with its array of shops. the Robben Island ferries (key 54). . Why do your shopping in another mall. leisure and dining options (see front map. At the heart of the Waterfront is its working harbour. this is the perfect place to do it as there are several bureaux de change. As it consists by and large of a shopping centre. Once you’re parked. but there is also the South Photos: The sprawling dockside V&A Waterfront offers endless retail. A major attraction is the Two Oceans Aquarium (key 8). and ships being repaired in the dry docks. hotels and other tourist facilities only sprang up at the end of the 1980s. These basins were constructed between 1860 and 1920. or meet your friends for a meal. With the recent addition of multistorey parking garages. Today. there is very little you can’t do or find at the Waterfront. restaurants and entertainment options. the fresh smell of the sea and ever-present cackle of Hartlaub’s gulls. the rest of the Waterfront can be comfortably and safely explored on foot. parking is no problem. If you want to exchange money and don’t want to head into the city to find the right facility. but the shopping centre.016 V&A WATERFRONT SHOPPIN G CENT R E KEY 02 V&A Waterfront The Victoria & Alfred Waterfront – or simply ‘the Waterfront’ – is South Africa’s most visited destination. when you can do it all next to the ocean? With Table Mountain as a backdrop. it is the perfect place for a family outing. key 2). catamarans and yachts which can take you out into the bay for sunset cruises (key 10).
The Paulaner Braühaus is a German microbrewery which serves filling Bavarian cuisine along with the house lager and Bavarian weissbier. Albert Luthuli and Desmond Tutu. where a slightly calmer section of the Waterfront awaits. Fact: In 2008 a penthouse apartment in one of the exclusive residential areas of the Waterfront sold for R100 million. But there will always be music somewhere. built in 1882.’ African Maritime Museum. Quay 4 Tavern is a popular place to enjoy fish or calamari and chips as it’s right next to the sea. The Amphitheatre hosts musical concerts – from popular local rock bands to classical music and choirs – on Saturday and Sunday afternoons.waterfront.za . thanks to the buskers who can be heard on a couple of corners. who have decided to make the Waterfront their home. live music and the chance to have your photo taken next to bronze statues of South Africa’s four Nobel Peace Prize laureates – Nelson Mandela. but this also means the gulls are present – they’ll head straight for your plate! Bikers like to converge (and show off with their bikes as they open the throttles on their way out) at Ferryman’s Tavern and Mitchell’s Waterfront Brewery. while other tastes are catered for at excellent restaurants like Balducci’s Restaurant & Sushi Bar and the Cape Town Fish Market. The Robben Island ferries also depart from the Clock Tower Precinct and right next to their berths one can often see a few Cape fur seals.co. While you can walk from the Waterfront to the city centre (it will take about 20 minutes at most). there is a large metered taxi stand across the road from the Two Oceans Aquarium. Info on www. Head out towards the old Clock Tower. The open-top city tour buses also depart from here (key 19). FW de Klerk.017 ‘There is very little you can’t do or find at the Waterfront.
purple. It’s also central to most tourist experiences of the city. Long Street is Cape Town’s shimmering. At Castle Street is the popular Gourmet Burger while ‘43 on Long’ sells unusual postcards beneath the Castle Street Backpackers which has a cute balcony from where you can streetwatch. A casual wander up and down the street can take an hour or a whole day – depending on how much shopping or eating you want to do! As the traffic runs in the direction of the mountain. bustling artery of the everyday and the extraordinary (see front map. backpackers. key 3). At the corner of Shortmarket Street is Shap’s Cameraland. well. It’s free and the giant pulpit which dates from 1824 is something to see. hotels and clubs are situated in or near Long Street. peace and quiet. one of the best camera stores in town. . not the most attractive buildings. Langham House Coffees is a stately coffee spot and the African Portrait Gallery next door sells fine paintings. Kauai for something healthier – in the block between the Waterkant and Strand Street intersections. but representative of architectural development in the city between the 1960s (when No 2 Long Street was finished) and the 1990s (Safmarine House). The first few blocks are modern-day high rises.018 LONG STREET WALK & SHOP & EAT & PA RT Y KEY 03 Long Street Long Street is a busy one-way street which. as many restaurants. The Purple Turtle is. Step into the South African Slave Church Museum for an unexpected breath of history. the lower section features a knot of popular franchises – Nando’s and KFC for chicken. from bottom to top. let’s start our walk at the bottom end. embodies a lot of what modern-day Cape Town is about. Skinz Leatherwear sells a full Photos: Whether day or night. Foodwise.
This block has some antique stores such as Galleria Fortuna. Rcaffé coffee shop is right next to the Dorp Street Mosque (aka Noor El Hamedia Mosque). just off Kloof Street. Tip: Other good camera shops are ORMS Profoto on 021 465 3573. just off Roeland Street and Photographic Repairs on 021 424 7880. Mr Pickwicks is famous for its Oreo-cookie milkshakes and is a good place to pick up flyers advertising parties in town. It is for sale at Clarke’s Bookshop. there’s the oddball clothing store Ska. while Revelas Fisheries is the fish-and-chips shop of choice. just grab a samoosa at Mountain View Takeaway next door.’ springbok skin suit and Tribal Trends is chic with the Pan African Market being where you really want to go for African curios (see key 76). If you don’t have time to sit down. the rooms of which were all decorated by different Cape Town creatives. Portobello Café is a haven for vegetarians and those who like their produce organic. A good guide: Walking Long Street – Cape Town by Desmond Martin is a good illustrated guide to the architecture of the whole street. Past Longmarket Street is Mali South. . Stones pool bar and Joburg Bar offer very different nights out. but it really does tolerate all tastes. The top end of Long Street is also the hipper end. Joy’s Collectables and Sterling Antiques which are perfect for finding a posh wedding present. followed by Masala Dosa for unusual Indian fusion food. Mungo & Jemima is a clothing boutique featuring local designers’ work and the African Women’s Trading Market is a stress-free shopping zone. there is Tommy’s Books and the African Music Store for the best local and continental artists (many of which are difficult to find in bigger chain stores). Crossing Dorp Street. Crossing Wale Street. but it really does tolerate all tastes. Nyoni’s Kraal is an African restaurant. which sells beautiful African dresses.019 ‘The top end of Long Street is also the hipper end. Sharing this old building (1903) is Daddy Long Legs. a boutique backpackers.
Marvel is a tiny club where you will want to be seen with the clothing you bought at NY. Café Mojito has good cocktail specials and Khaya Nyama offers no-nonsense African food. Milk or Misfit after you’ve had a fantastic lamb burger at Royale across the road. Blue Mountain Backpackers is in the lovely Blue Lodge building. and that’s exactly what you need right now: cake. Parking is hard to find. Still Life is a small gift shop with really special pillows. The Detour Traveller’s Shop and the Travel Centre are convenient places from which to organise day trips.Lon. above Joburg) when the 80s specialists. Party: Want to dance the night away? Hit Deluxe (cnr Long and Longmarket) for your deep/ dirty/funky mix fix or LB’s (222 Long Street.020 LONG STREET WALK & SHOP & EAT & PA RT Y ‘If everywhere else in the city seems dead. and award-winning Jardine Restaurant (185 Bree Street) for dinner to die for. there is Cake on Long. Pop into the Cape Glass Studio hidden away in Vredenburg Lane. which ends at the Long Street Turkish Baths (see Key 21) and the St Martini German Lutheran Church. . Long Street will be moving. Upstairs from Royale is The Waiting Room. The Wedding DJs. By night. Nearing the top of Long Street. parties spill out onto the street and taxis hog the lanes.’ Just up the road: Long Street’s neighbours. Loop and Bree streets are not to be forgotten – try the fantastic organic food at Bird’s Boutique Café (127 Bree Street) or sumptuous fare at Frieda’s (15 Bree Street) for lunch. If everywhere else in the city seems dead. a street café where many a Saturday-night headache has been cured by a Sunday brunch. with more mellow live music. hold the fort. Long Street is a different animal. with an internet café below. and the Maharajah Indian restaurant is one of the best traditional Indian restaurants in town. Long Street will be moving. Fiction is a cool night club (if you know your glitch hop from your liquid drum and bass) above Lola’s. Long Street Café is one of the landmarks on the street. It always has been. At the Bloem Street corner.
There is a coffee shop on the premises as well as a company which organises oldfashioned carriage rides. a vast collection of period art and furniture. one for the gun powder and some where prisoners were kept (below sea level!). A stroll through the pentagon-shaped Castle is a good introduction to the history of the Cape and there are free guided tours (at 11 am. Back then it was on the seashore. key 4). The Castle is also a popular party venue. Detail: Castle information on 021 464 1260 and www. KEY 04 Above: The Castle is a popular class-outing for local and regional schools. Cape Carriage Co on 082 5755 669. . Be sure to check out the pitch black dungeons. The Castle also houses the oldest clock in the country. org. where the governor used to make his speeches and proclamations.za. the beach being where Strand Street is now. Dancing the night away is a great way of enjoying this special place in another way – it doesn’t have to remain a staid museum. The best time to go is in the morning so that you can witness the traditional ceremony during which the Castle guards hand over the keys to the commander. they built an earthwork fort situated where the present-day Grand Parade is. but it is spacious and offers many quiet nooks and crannies among its 10-metre-thick walls (see front map.iziko. noon and 2 pm) to help you make quick sense of it all. This happens at 10 am and again at noon in front of the Kat Balcony. A very small cannon is also fired off. As there were rumours of war between the Netherlands and Britain at the time. so keep an eye on the papers for forthcoming events. it makes a big bang! The William Fehr Collection. is housed in the same building as the Kat balcony. Don’t be fooled by its size. the go-ahead was given to build a proper fort – the Castle – which was finally completed in 1679.T H E CA ST L E H E R I TAG E 021 The Castle of Good Hope When the Dutch first settled at the Cape in 1652.
022 SEA POINT PROMENADE LEISURELY ST RO L L KEY 05 Sea Point Promenade For all its diversity. key 5). run. dogs populate the promenade in a proliferation of colours. South Africa does not have many places like the Sea Point Promenade. to pleasant parks for the kids and several kilometres of safe running space. The promenade stretches down the coast for only a few kilometres – roughly from Sea Point to Mouille Point – but the variety of people who flock here every day to picnic. playgrounds for the kids. It consists of a wide. with plenty of grass for a kick about or game of frisbee. . makes it the perfect place for people-watching. The best time to visit the promenade is in the early morning or late afternoon – it all depends whether you’re a dawn stroller or a sunset sitter. At Milton Beach there is a tidal pool with toilets and a large playground just beyond it. In a way. you can complete a brisk hour-and-a-half walk to the Green Point lighthouse (inset. safe walkway adjacent to the ocean. Besides people. left) and back. sizes and degrees of mobility as their owners bring them here for a scratch and run. where the different citizens of the so-called Rainbow Nation come together to enjoy the same recreation area in large numbers. Photos: From perches where waves crash at your feet. it is Cape Town’s very own Central Park. walk. Keep an eye out towards Beach Road to spot the restaurants. a four star hotel renowned for its Sunday brunches which are accompanied by a live jazz band. If you start at the Sea Point Pavilion Pool (key 29) and walk in the direction of the Waterfront. play and sit. clean public bathrooms and park benches fit for a sunny doze or some time with a good book. At 221 Beach Road you’ll find Winchester Mansions. the Sea Point Promenade is a people’s paradise (front map.
so head down a bit further to Gelato for interesting scoops of ice cream. but the bathing is good thanks to the kind slope into the water. . Wakame and Wafu on 021 433 2377. the promenade comes right back towards Beach Road – across the road is La Vie Café (205 Beach Road). Next up is a lively putt-putt course (it’s a couple thing. and cuddling and putting seem to go hand in hand). Café Bravo on 021 439 5260. so it’s perfect for a quiet dip – your fellow bather is bound to be a senior citizen who has come here every day for a decade or three. Wakame (sushi and seafood). from where you can take sea-kayaking trips (see key 6). La Vie Café on 021 439 2061.023 ‘In a way. followed by the Serendipity Maze. See if you can spot the wreck of the RMS Athens not far from the shore. cappuccinos and fresh fruit slices in season). it is Cape Town’s very own Central Park. A firm favourite is Café Bravo (121 Beach Road) for some of the best pizza in town. The red-and-white façade of the Green Point lighthouse (built in 1824) might inspire a sweet craving in your kids. Theo’s Grill (163 Beach Road) is known for its steaks. Theo’s Grill Butcher & Seafood on 021 439 3494.’ Rocklands Beach is small. a fine place for cocktails and pizza. The next notable cove is Three Anchor Bay. Café Neo on 021 433 0849. In the same block you will find Newport Market & Deli (great sandwiches. and Café Neo (129 Beach Road) is a Greek deli with various hot and cold dishes to suit Mediterranean palates. Geisha on 021 439 0533. This is a good place to turn around and head back to where you started. At Rocklands. It sank here in 1865 and all that is visible now is a metal turret. Wakame is one of the finest sundowner spots on the strip. Wafu (Chinese) and Geisha Wok and Noodle Bar (Asian fusion). The crowds never really come here. Detail: Winchester Mansions on 021 434 2351.
The trips last about two hours and are weather dependent.seakayak. While you can encounter whales anywhere along the coast between July and October. The rocks near Clifton also offer some good birding so.kayak. If you have more kayaking experience. Sea Kayak Simon’s Town on 082 501 8930 and www. you might learn a bit more about cormorants. kayakcapetown. Detail: Coastal Kayaks on 021 439 1134 and www.za. If you’re really lucky. or you can paddle to Boulders Beach (key 59) to see the African penguins. For West Coast and Langebaan lagoon trips. tackling the Atlantic Ocean for a scenic paddle in a kayak is not as far-fetched as it sounds.co. try Real Cape Adventures who do overnight trips. Coastal Kayaks can organise half-day trips. You can either just fiddle around in the harbour.co.co. Sea Kayak Simon’s Town offers a variety of tours along the False Bay coastline. such as paragliding and horse trails. they’ll take you all the way down to Cape Point itself (a six-hour trip).za . On the other side of the peninsula. Real Cape Adventures on 021 790 5611 and www.co. If you’re more energetic. Walker Bay Adventures offer sea-kayaking near Hermanus. you might see an albatross. in addition to the workout. The friendly people at Coastal Kayaks. amongst many other outdoor activities.za.za. Above: Coastal Kayaks offer easy trips to Clifton departing from Three Anchor Bay (front map.walkerbayadventures. so you won’t be made to battle a gale. key 6). but the real highlight is when a seal or pod of dolphins come over to have a closer look at your craft.024 KAYAKING ENJOY THE SEA KEY 06 Kayaking Even if you are a complete novice. Walker Bay Adventures on 082 739 0159 and www. Hermanus is most renowned for opportunities to spot these remarkable sea mammals (see key 113). based directly across the road at Three Anchor Bay (179 Beach Road) will guide you on a leisurely paddle from there to as far as Clifton beach and back. The views will of course be spectacular.
workshop tours and top designers include Jewel Africa on 021 424 5141 (170 Buitengracht Street). The Diamond Works on the foreshore offers a unique Sparkling Tour which starts off with a glass of sparkling wine and might just end with you digging out the credit card to buy some of the stunning diamond jewellery on offer. you can check email or help yourself to fresh coffee. make a sketch of what you think your dream ring should look like and have it made exactly to your specifications. key 7). you’ll learn about the cutting tools. You can sit down with the Diamond Works designers. Olive Green Cat on 021 424 1101 (51 Wale Street). 72 Waterkant Street) and Mark Solomon Jewellers on 021 434 1254 (373a Main Road. At a café corner in the shop. KEY 07 Photos: The Diamond Works offer a hands-on shopping experience (front map. Cape Town is at the forefront of selling these precious gemstones directly to the public. such as a tang and a scaife. and witness the in-store master goldsmith at work. There are also pictures of famous diamonds such as the Star of South Africa and the Cullinan. The diamonds for sale at Diamond Works are all from South Africa.za.co. During the short tour. Other options for jewellery shopping. Sea Point).SHOP FOR DIAMONDS 025 Shop for diamonds While the town of Kimberley in the Northern Cape is South Africa’s most famous diamond town. There is also gold. The Diamond Works will even pick you up at your accommodation on request. Detail: The Diamond Works on 021 425 1970 and www. . There are simple displays on the walls tracing the early history of diamonds in South Africa from the discovery of the first diamonds in 1867 near Hopetown in the Northern Cape to the heady days of the Kimberley rush.thediamondworks. Namibia or Botswana and come with a certificate to verify their authenticity and places of origin. platinum and tanzanite (a gemstone a thousand times rarer than diamonds) jewellery for sale. Philip Wulfsohn Jewellery on 021 421 2628 (B12 Cape Quarter.
breaking for lunch or shopping. sizes and colours (front map.30 am and 2. the glistening brown fronds of which are often visible Photos: The Two Oceans Aquarium offers a journey into an underwater world alive with surprising shapes. and the kelp forest’s inhabitants engage in a feeding frenzy at noon on Wednesdays and Sundays. the penguins are given their snacks at 11.30 pm daily. and then returning for another couple of hours. you will see washed-up pieces of kelp. so you can get good value for money by spending a couple of hours here. key 8). The Atlantic Ocean off the southern African west coast has rich fishing grounds thanks to the Benguela current. The best times of the day at the aquarium are the feeding times. At the predator exhibit this is at 3 pm daily. These are from the huge kelp forests. The Indian Ocean gallery displays fish found in the warm Agulhas current which brings water from the tropics southwards along the coast of Africa. Ticket prices are quite high.026 FOR KIDS TWO OCEANS AQUARIUM KEY 08 Two Oceans Aquarium Situated next to the harbour at the V&A Waterfront. Whichever Cape beaches you visit. which brings nutrients from the cold southern oceans. to anemones and urchins (which you can touch in a special touch pool) and microscopic organisms (for which there is thankfully a microscope so that you can see them!). . the Two Oceans Aquarium has emerged as one of Cape Town’s top attractions since its opening in 1995. blue cleaner wrasse and mimic blenny. ranging from fish such as snoek. damsels. angelfish. You will see surgeonfish. but they buy you a day pass. The Atlantic Ocean gallery consists of 32 exhibits housing creatures from the colder Atlantic.
But the Two Oceans Aquarium exposes this graceful. It is one of the world’s two aquariums with such an exhibit.co. especially. the play-centre downstairs hosts daily puppet shows and drawing classes. at the river meander. kids.sakidsonthego.com . The kelp forest consists of three giant species of kelp and is inhabited by local fish species such as galjoen (South Africa’s national fish).’ on the sea’s surface.027 ‘Kids. While there’s something for everyone here. For younger children. Usually. The predator exhibit. If you are a qualified open-water diver you can join the staff when they feed the fish in the kelp forest by special arrangement. Detail: Bookings (including aquarium dives) and information on 021 418 3823 and www. pilchards and maasbanker. relax here while someone else entertains your child for a while. For more kids’ activities visit www. white steenbras. you can watch Cape fur seals play the fool and upstairs. (Don’t break it!) Sitting in the little amphitheatre facing the tank is like watching a giant IMAX film screen: everything’s on a grand scale. swaying marine world to all its visitors. and are broken loose during storms or by normal wave action. ragged tooth sharks and giant manta rays are the superstars. so if you feel you’re being run off your feet. Through the window. will go crazy for the aquarium. where beautiful loggerhead turtles. is in a tank with a two million-litre capacity. only divers know how beautiful these kelp forests look underwater.aquarium. You can also dive in the predator tank if you really want to look a ragged-tooth shark in the eye.za. there are penguins (rockhoppers and African penguins) and other birds such as black oystercatchers. will go crazy for the aquarium. especially.
0028 KEY 08 Two Oceans Aquarium Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
0029 pull quote Details: .
But there was also the goema rhythm. which helped to spark the Cape Minstrel (Klopse) festivities. where experienced and new local players all have a go at it. These include the Marimba Restaurant (in the Cape Town International Convention Centre) and Asokã (Kloof Street). Don’t miss the Robbie Jansen Quartet. Try to catch local greats like composer Mark Fransman or young pianist Camillo Lombard. Andrew Ford Trio. key 9.greendolphin. 021 Lounge in Wetton (1 Wetwyn Road) is famous for its Monday night jam sessions. 021 Lounge on 021 762 2443. The Green Dolphin is often the first stop for many jazz tourists. Because of its convenient location in the V&A Waterfront. A New Orleans groove stuck after the visits of the American minstrels in the 19th century.030 JAZZ CLUBS ENTERTAINMENT KEY 09 Jazz It’s hard to say how jazz came to Cape Town. Pianist Abdullah Ibrahim is probably Cape Town’s greatest jazz export. and you’ll hear three live sets performed during the course of your dinner.1) and The Green Dolphin (front map. key 9. Natascha Roth Trio. Regular acts include Alvin Dyers. Today. Detail: Green Dolphin line-up at www. Several restaurants in town also have a live jazz act on some nights. Ivan Mazuze Quartet. he took Cape Town jazz to the world while living in exile in America during the apartheid years. which still bobs around in a lot of local jazz players’ fingers. the singer Sathima Bea Benjamin. . Together with his wife. Robbie is the Cape’s king of the alto sax.co. Asokã on 021 422 0909. It’s a bar and restaurant. see back map. unique to the Cape. Photos: 021 Lounge (top. Gavin Minter Quartet and Amanda Tiffin.2) offer top-class jazz. there are several clubs where live jazz can be enjoyed.za and bookings on 021 421 7471.
usually set off across Table Bay towards the Milnerton lighthouse and then turn back to catch the sunset from the shelter of Granger Bay. A morning. Detail: Maharani on 083 769 4450. Southern Cross and the 74-foot catamaran Sea Princess – go around Green Point and then as far as Clifton. key 10).theseahorse.co. mid-afternoon or sunset trip on this yacht will make you feel like a millionaire. But if you’d rather just take it easy.za.co.waterfrontboats. The Sea Horse is a floating restaurant and Tigger 2 Charters offer sunset cruises.tiggertoo. friendly service. Included in your ticket price is a glass of bubbly and there’s a cash bar for further refreshments. The trips last about one-and-a-half hours. trips to Hout Bay’s seal colony and even a braai cruise! KEY 10 Above: The Maharani’s friendly service will ensure that your sunset cruise is as pleasant and relaxing as it should be (front map. nothing beats a sunset cruise out of the V&A Waterfront. you can visit a colony of Cape fur seals (see key 55). The Waterfront Boat Company has both sailing-boats and motorised vessels. Waterfront Boat Co on 021 418 5806 and www. are perfect for taking along the kids as you explore the nooks and crannies of the harbour.S U N S E T C R U I S E O N TA B L E BAY 031 Sunset cruise There are many reasons to go out onto the ocean around the Cape Peninsula: at Hout Bay. such as the harbour seal cruise. Tigger 2 Charters on 021 790 5256 and www.co. from Simon’s Town you can set out in search of breaching great white sharks (key 68) or you can hit the Robben Island ferry for a historical journey (key 54).za . few can beat the crew of the Maharani. the Spirit of Victoria (a 58-foot gaff-rigged schooner) and Esperance.za. For professional. The Sea Horse on 021 419 3122 and www. The boats are active throughout the day (departing almost hourly) and some trips. The sailing-boats. enjoy the magnificent surroundings with friends and a glass of sparkling wine. The others – Condor.
0032 KEY 10 Sunset Cruise Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
0033 pull quote Details: .
The development of the stadium was opposed by many citizens of Green Point. The old Green Point stadium had seating for only 18 000 fans.1) to many an empty plot on the Cape Flats. they have never won the PSL (National League Photos: From Athlone Stadium (back map. become a taxpayer’s burden. who feared that the new development would change the character of the suburb and.2). after the World Cup. the latter is affiliated to the famous Dutch club of the same name. Across the country. The city has two teams in the Premier Soccer League. Ajax Cape Town came into being in 1999. The Cape Town city skyline has changed. and will also be used for rugby matches and music concerts after the World Cup.034 SOCCER SPORT KEY 1 1 Soccer The world’s favourite sport is also Cape Town’s favourite sport. there is plenty of other soccer to watch and in which to participate. The stadium is set to host eight matches during the competition. As hosts to the 2010 FIFA World Cup. soccer is hugely popular in Cape Town. after Seven Stars (where Blackburn Rovers’ Benni McCarthy started out) and Cape Town Spurs joined forces under the wing of Ajax Netherlands. The World Cup Stadium is in Green Point (front map. including a semi-final. with the site of the old Green Point stadium having undergone a radical overhaul. key 11. . The new stadium will be surrounded by a recreational park. Kaizer Chiefs might be based in Gauteng. but the new one has increased seating capacity to 70 000. Outside of World Cup fever. new stadiums have been built and existing ones upgraded. but you will find their fans (inset) everywhere. Santos and Ajax Cape Town. South Africa has been in a state of hyperactivity in anticipation of this enormous event. Their nickname is ‘The Urban Warriors’ and although they came achingly close to victory in 2007/2008. key 11. with over 100 000 registered players in the city.
a beautiful 30 000-capacity stadium in Lansdowne. They won the PSL championship in the 2001/2002 season. they temporarily share Athlone Stadium with Santos as their home ground. will come up to you and say something about the Amakhosi. as the Kaizer Chiefs are also known. Ajax Cape Town on 021 930 6001 and www. have one of the biggest support bases countrywide and you’re likely to encounter their fans at Athlone Stadium even during a Santos versus Ajax CT derby. Santos FC is nicknamed ‘The People’s Team’ and they play their home games at Athlone Stadium.co. so whichever bar you’re in will be screening matches ranging from local to European club games throughout the year.co. Local satellite broadcaster DStv has a host of sports channels.za . In solidarity.ajaxct. they have also had nationals from elsewhere in Africa in their squad in recent years.za. Buy one if you can – you’ll be surprised how many people. Both teams have very active youth programmes and women’s teams. and you’ll see minibus taxis proudly displaying Manchester United. from fuel attendants to shop owners.santosfc. Santos FC on 021 696 8193 and www. Many street vendors (especially around the Cape Town station) sell Kaizer Chiefs beanies or peak caps. While their offices are based in Parow. While most of their players are South African. Kaizer Chiefs. Green Point Common on www. though based in Gauteng. Detail: FIFA World Cup information on www. Santos was founded in 1982 in the Cape Flats suburb of Heideveld.fifa. English club soccer is closely followed here.co.035 ‘In solidarity.za.com.greenpointcommon. you should say: “Amakhosi for life!” And a new friend will be made. Arsenal and Liverpool stickers. you should say: ‘Amakhosi for life!’ And a new friend will be made through soccer.’ title).
co. A number of yachting clubs set around the peninsula will be happy to welcome you as a visitor. False Bay Yacht Club on 021 786 1703. which happens in March or April. Good Hope Sailing Academy on 021 424 4665. During summer. the Royal Cape Yacht Club (RCYC) is the peninsula’s premier club with more than 3 000 members. HBYC also organises the Hout Bay to Waterfront race. try the Good Hope Sailing Academy which is based at the RCYC. during which competitors overnight at the Waterfront. the clubs have races on Wednesday evenings (in addition to yearround weekend races) making it a good day to go to the RCYC to see if anyone needs a crew member. They organise the Governor’s Cup from Table Bay to St Helena Island every two years. which started after Sir Thomas Lipton donated a trophy in 1909. Detail: Royal Cape Yacht Club on 021 421 1354. the party in the bar is just about obligatory. On the other side of the peninsula. they moved clubhouse to their current location. If you’re a beginner looking for sailing lessons. A big event on the Cape yachting scene is the century-old Lipton Cup race. Lipton Cup on www.liptoncup. Hout Bay Yacht Club on 021 790 3110. Above: The Royal Cape Yacht Club (front map.036 YAC HTING ENJOY THE OCEAN KEY 12 Yachting If you know how deep a fathom is. key 12). The Hout Bay Yacht Club’s (HBYC) premier event is the three-day long Admiral’s Regatta. but when these were filled in during the land reclamation works of the 1940s and 1950s. the False Bay Yacht Club also offers moorings for visiting yachts. you might long for a bit of yachting action during your stay at the Cape.za . Their first moorings were roughly where the Cape Town International Convention Centre stands today. Afterwards. Zeekoevlei Yacht Club on 021 705 3373. Established in 1905. Gordon’s Bay Yacht Club on 021 856 3263.
either inside or outside depending on the weather. There is also a morning tea from 9. Twelve Apostles Hotel on 021 437 9000. are the giant columns of the Prince of Wales Gate (inaugurated during his royal visit in 1925). Served from 2. Unmissable when you drive along Allandale Road. chances are that you won’t ever quite see it. Unless you’re staying at the hotel. ‘The snacks on the buffet have something delectable for every tooth. It opened in 1899. whether sweet or savoury. when the South African War (also known as the Anglo-Boer War) broke out. but people flocked to this newly opened luxury hotel anyway to party their troubles away. .30 pm to 5. though. key 13). KEY 13 Photos: An afternoon feast is served at the Mount Nelson Hotel (front map.B E D E CA D E N T L AV I S H T E A S E S S I O N S 037 Afternoon tea at the Mount Nelson One would think that opening a hotel on the eve of war would be a bad idea.30 pm. quiches). afternoon tea is serious business. If you’re not staying over at the hotel. while the snacks on the buffet have something delectable for every tooth.30 pm. as it’s so neatly hidden away in a large block above the top end of the Company Gardens. make sure you attend the traditional afternoon tea. Undeniably colonial in nature. Other hotels that offer excellent tea sessions are the Twelve Apostles Hotel (view over the Atlantic) and the Table Bay Hotel (view over the harbour and Table Mountain). which is a ‘lighter’ affair on the food front. whether sweet (delicate fudge. but the Mount Nelson Hotel really had no choice in the matter. You can choose from any tea imaginable.’ Bookings: Mount Nelson Hotel on 021 483 1000. the Mount Nelson (or the ‘Nellie’ as some affectionately call it) has sustained its class and held its own in a time when many other luxury hotels have sprung up across the city. Table Bay Hotel on 021 406 5000.30 am to 12. beautiful cupcakes) or savoury (smoked salmon.
each competing heavily against the other. Tucked away in a small alley near the top of Adderley Street is the heart of the industry. the Adderley Street Flower Market (Trafalgar Place). white arum lilies. head to the flower market at about 7 pm on a Saturday. but with a secret code of conduct which allows them to take turns in trying to make a sale without ‘stealing’ another’s customer. roadside pull-overs and even at red traffic lights during rush hour. . but ‘for R100 you can have double’ or some similar deal. lysianthus. visit Giovanni’s (103 Main Road.038 SHOP CIT Y FLOWER MARKET KEY 14 The Adderley Street Flower Market The Cape’s floral treasure finds its way into many a suburban home thanks to the flower sellers who do business on street corners. irises. tulips. and several sellers’ grandmothers also once worked this spot. sunflowers. ranunculus. It has been based here since about 1860. pennygum. roses of all colours. key 14). ericas (a local heather). gladioli. Tip: For more ornate arrangements and longer-lasting flowers. just off De Waal Drive. when sellers try to get rid of the last of their stock. stargazer and St Joseph lilies. You’ll generally find that the bunch or bunches of flowers you’re after come to something like R60. or visit the sellers at Upper Orange Street and in Jutland Road. Hang out with the ladies for a while – they’re the heart and soul of this city. Flowers commonly available include proteas. Flowers make the perfect gift if you’ve been invited to dinner. Above: Gairoenisah Benjamin is one of the colourful characters who have been working at the Adderley Street Flower Market for years (front map. Pick up a bunch in the city bowl in front of Harley’s Liquor (cnr Buitengracht & Wale Streets). and spectacular strelitzias. Iceland poppies. also known as bird of paradise flowers. The sellers are a lively bunch. Green Point). For bargains.
KEY 15 Photos: Harley’s Liquor is on a busy corner (front map. If you would like to buy some good wines but don’t have time to head out to the winelands. They have a Woolworths food section. Vaughan Johnson’s Wine Shop (Dock Road) in the V&A Waterfront also has a vast selection. Detail: Harley’s Liquor on 021 424 1128. beers (including imported beers). a bakery and a fast-food outlet. Wine Concepts has branches in the Lifestyle Centre on Kloof Street (shop 15) as well as in Newlands (cnr Main Street and Kildare Road).2) is hidden away in the city. They are open until 7 pm on weekdays and 5 pm on Saturdays. It will save you. don’t despair. Caroline’s on 021 419 8984. whiskies and sparkling wines. Its prominent neon sign is hard to miss if you’re driving up Buitengracht Street (on the corner with Wale Street) towards the mountain. key 15. key 15. Though it has a wide range of wine. . front map. At Caroline’s Fine Wine Cellar (62 Strand Street – also in the V&A Waterfront) you can book a personalised tasting. Wine Concepts Kloof Street on 021 426 4401. it’s really quite a small liquor store compared to the big discount behemoths. which is unusual for a South African liquor store. But Harley’s packs a knockout punch to its competition: it’s not only open until relatively late at night (10 pm weekdays) but it’s also open on a Sunday. for there are a number of specialist wine stores in the city. trust us. One more party tip: if it’s the early hours of the morning and you’re heading home hungry and parked too far away from the legendary schwarma stall in Long Street. head for the Engen fuel station (cnr Annandale and Hatfield streets).PA R T Y T I M E C I T Y L I Q U O R A N D W I N E S H O P S 039 Party tips The be-all and end-all of liquor stores in Cape Town is Harley’s Liquor and Wine Specialist.1) and Caroline’s Fine Wine Cellar (inset. during which you’ll enjoy eight top wines from the region.
On the culinary front.040 THE BO-KA AP HERITAGE KEY 16 The Bo-Kaap The Cape Malay community has its origins in the height of the Dutch East India Company’s trading era. Local Khoi pastoralists were employed. key 16). but skilled artisans were also brought in from other trade settlements. In this way they influenced the language which was to become Afrikaans and were in fact the very first writers of the earliest Afrikaans scripts – written in Arabic script by Muslim leaders. colour and texture for photographers (front map. Many of the early community leaders were in fact exiled religious leaders. A number of Sufi leaders were forcibly moved to the Cape. who added to the local Dutch vocabulary. Cape Town was a mixed society and many white males had children with Khoi women. The Afrikaans language also has a lot for which to thank the Cape Malay people. In this way. Photos: The Bo-Kaap (also marked as Schotse Kloof on some city maps) is a visual feast of shape. As the colony expanded and more farms were laid out. frikkadel (meatballs) and blatjang (chutney) to South African cuisine. Macassar. The Dutch had trade settlements in Java. In the early days. . the Malay archipelago and Indonesia. as authorities knew that their loyal followers would come along. bredie (stew). and later with the new Malay slaves. more labour was needed. the Cape Malay community took shape. Malay culture brought bobotie (curried minced meat). and the new halfway stop at the Cape was an important refuelling point for their ships. Sheikh Yusuf of Macassar and his handful of followers settled on a piece of empty land on the other side of the Cape Flats – today this town carries his name.
even though its makeup was more cosmopolitan in the early 1800s. ask if you can have a look.’ The Bo-Kaap has always been home to Cape Malay people. Bo-Kaap Guided Tours on 082 423 6932. it was spared the destructive wrath of the Group Areas Act. Locals also eat there – the food is just too good to stay away. Noon Gun Tea Room and Restaurant on 021 424 0529. with the cobbled streets and brightly painted houses making it a feast for the photographer. Atlas Trading.041 ‘Unlike District Six. grains and rice. it was spared the destructive wrath of the Group Areas Act during apartheid. with minimum fuss. and is becoming so again now. Biesmiellah Restaurant (2 Wale Street) is an unassuming place. herbs. With bobotie or breyani as mains and koeksisters (sweet confectionary) or milk tart for dessert. nuts. Detail: Biesmiellah Restaurant on 021 423 0850. where the friendly Misbach family cook some of the best food you’ll find. Atlas Trading on 021 423 4361. so if they’re not too busy. For a Malay meal with a view. colourful neighbourhood. A walk around the area reveals a vibrant. Unlike District Six. lying between Buitengracht Street and the foot of Lion’s Head (aka the Lion’s Rump). . drive out to the edge of the city bowl to the Noon Gun Tea Room (just follow Longmarket Street up to its very end). you can’t go wrong. a famous Cape spice shop just one shop down from the Rose Corner Café. but has become a popular tourist stop thanks to its authentic Malay food. They have their own small herb garden in the back. It is a small area. On the corner of Wale and Rose streets is the Rose Corner Café where you can buy sweetmeats. curries and rotis. Specialities include denningvleis (lamb stew). is where many a chef or household cook comes to buy the best spices.
0042 KEY 16 Bo-Kaap Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
0043 pull quote .
The Garden was once worked by as many as 300 slaves. Each statue in the gardens tells a story. while walking around in the garden.044 THE C OMPANY GARDENS CIT Y PAR K KEY 17 The Company Gardens The main purpose of the early Dutch settlement at the Cape was to serve as a ‘refreshment station’. The Company Garden was laid out by Jan van Riebeeck’s head gardener. scurvy. It was the halfway mark for Dutch trade ships en route between Europe and the East. key 17). In 1889 Rhodes and Major Frank Johnson hatched their plan to annexe Mashonaland. Photos: Whether a leisurely stroll or staring down a squirrel is your thing. using water from the Varsrivier (Fresh River) which runs an invisible course under the concrete of the city these days. the Company Gardens offer respite for all (front map. it’s always safer to walk in a small group. so orange and lemon trees were planted. Cecil John Rhodes stands here. Today it serves as a great green lung for the centre of Cape Town and is open to the public from 7 am to 7 pm. although it’s not advisable to walk through the gardens at night. its shaded walkway busy during most of the day as a popular short-cut for locals from the city into the neighbourhood of Gardens. Hendrik Boom. Government Avenue bisects the gardens neatly. later to become Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe). . As with most of the city. and was three times larger than the lush park of the same name that visitors can now stroll through. finger aloft. pointing towards a new hinterland in the north. Many also come here during their lunch-hour to meet friends outside the confines of their offices. Vitamin C was vital in the fight against the seaman’s scourge.
from the ducks to the pigeons to the many squirrels which call the oak-lined Government Avenue home. nearly one kilometre later. running or picnicking. The cobbled pathway of Government Avenue comes to an end. is a tearoom with tables outside. The squirrels are American in origin. you can gain access to the South African Museum and Planetarium. the impressive building on your immediate right is St George’s Cathedral. the SA Jewish Museum and Cape Town Holocaust Centre (see key 18). There is tight security. They serve good scones and make a mean burger and the eatery is an excellent place to relax and plot your next foray into the city. Molteno Road and Upper Orange Street is De Waal Park. . It is home to the Gardens Tennis Club.045 ‘It serves as a great green lung for the centre of Cape Town. On your left. These are perfect for feeding just about anything that moves in the gardens. you will see the South African Parliament and then Tuynhuys. under the large trees. as you walk up the avenue. Or try this one: Wedged between Camp Street. Located roughly halfway up the gardens. directly opposite the front entrance of the Mount Nelson Hotel (key 13). Behind it is part of the South African National Library.’ Walking up Government Avenue from the bottom. bordering the perimeter wall against Queen Victoria Street. where Adderley and Wale streets meet. which is a good place to go walking. You can purchase small bags of peanuts here from informal traders. where it runs into busy Annandale Road. so you won’t be able to get much of a look-in. From the Company Gardens. the official office of the president of the country when he is in Cape Town. the National Gallery. designed by Sir Herbert Baker. brought here on order of Cecil John Rhodes.
key 18.co. The empty land left by the bulldozers can still be seen today. In addition to District Six.iziko. DISTRICT SIX MUSEUM The excellent District Six Museum (25a Buitenkant Street) exposes one of the biggest injustices of the apartheid era: the destruction of an entire neighbourhood and the forced removal of 60 000 people to the Cape Flats. District Six Museum on 021 466 7200 and www. such as Tramway Road (Sea Point) and Protea Village (near Kirstenbosch) are also commemorated. literally placing the visitor inside the milieu. Opposite: The street map of the razed District Six. not far from the museum. the building has seen several occupants over the past 300 years. a post office and eventually the SA Cultural History Museum (1960).za. other communities which were affected at the same time.org. and the role this halfway house played during a time when slavery was a big global business.046 CIT Y MUSEUMS HERITAGE KEY 18 Museums of the city SLAVE LODGE The Slave Lodge (cnr Adderley and Wale streets) is arguably the most significant museum in the Cape.1). a library. places the visitor literally inside the layout of this once vibrant city neighbourhood (front map. key 18.za . the old Cape Supreme Court. Its interactive installations explore slavery at the Cape. Detail: Slave Lodge on 021 460 8200 and www. it is estimated that up to 9 000 slaves lived in the building over the years. A prominent feature of the museum is the street map of the erased neighbourhood which has been painted on the floor. Housed in the original Slave Lodge (1679).3).districtsix. Above: The impressive front façade of the Slave Lodge (front map. Until its conversion into government offices. from being used as government offices (1810).
047 ‘The empty land left by the bulldozers can still be seen. Every conceivable art form. Planetarium on 021 481 3900 and www.za.za . including beadwork. with nearly 500 000 items stored away and not on public display. Besides contemporary and historically important local art. rocks and minerals to a giant whale skeleton. SOUTH AFRICAN MUSEUM & PLANETARIUM The South African Museum (25 Queen Victoria Street) houses both natural history and social history collections. furniture. the collection also includes international work. is housed in the same complex as the museum and gives a fascinating glimpse into the story of the universe via the stars above us. not far from the museum. birds and reptiles. Be sure to also see the Michaelis Collection housed in the Old Town House in Greenmarket Square. What is on display.’ SA NATIONAL GALLERY The South African National Gallery (Government Avenue. Collections have been 200 years in the making. ceramics. though. The museum has a very good shop if you’re looking for some unusual books. Detail: SA National Gallery on 021 467 4660 and www.iziko. with its distinctive dome. Michaelis Collection on 021 481 3933. painting and sculpture is represented. stamps and clothing.org.za. The social history collection includes toys. is impressive. video art. Gardens) houses one of the finest collections of art in South Africa.org.iziko.org. The Planetarium. SA Museum on 021 481 3800 and www. gifts and artefacts. It’s a great outing for kids and the perfect time to learn about the stars of the southern skies. ranging from fossils. weaponry.iziko.
irmastern. It is regarded as a centre for learning about human rights. It is home to a permanent collection of her own work and houses rotating exhibitions by other artists too.048 CIT Y MUSEUMS HERITAGE ‘Collections have been 200 years in the making. SA JEWISH MUSEUM & CAPE TOWN HOLOCAUST CENTRE The SA Jewish Museum is situated on the site of the Old Synagogue next to the Company Gardens (also accessed from Hatfield Street). a shop which sells South African Jewish artefacts and an extensive library. as her art was deemed too risqué for the conservative mainstream of the time. but she initially struggled to get recognition in South Africa. The Cape Town Holocaust Centre (88 Hatfield Street) is the only such centre in Africa and is next door to the museum.za. There is a reconstructed shtetl in the museum. key 18. Detail: SA Jewish Museum on 021 465 1546 and www.’ Above: This blue whale skeleton is a central display in the SA Museum (front map.4). most of who came from Eastern Europe between 1880 and 1930. for almost 40 years.co. Irma Stern Museum on 021 685 5686 and www. Cape Town Holocaust Centre on 021 462 5553 and www. key 18. The complex traces the history of the South African Jewish community. The Gardens Synagogue next door was opened in 1905 to accommodate larger numbers.2). IRMA STERN MUSEUM Tucked away near the historic Mostert’s Mill in Rosebank lies the Irma Stern Museum (Cecil Road).sajewishmuseum.co. which also has a kosher café. Irma Stern (1894–1966) was a renowned South African artist and held over 100 solo exhibitions. Opposite: Inside the South African Holocaust Centre (front map. She lived in this house.za.za .co. and provides some fascinating comparisons between the laws of Nazi Germany and apartheid South Africa. ctholocaust. The Firs.
and the museum offers jewellery making courses. with very little having changed there over the past 100 years and more. Based in the historic Martin Melck House (96 Strand Street). The Heart of Cape Town Museum is at the hospital and offers guided two-hour tours (on booking only) which will tell you more about the long night of the operation. There is both a shop and restaurant.za . as well as visiting exhibits from other continents.049 ‘There is a reconstructed shtetl in the museum.goldofafrica. it mostly contains gold ornaments from the gold-rich West African kingdoms.’ BO-KAAP MUSEUM The entire neighbourhood of the Bo-Kaap is really a living museum. and its inhabitants. Heart of Cape Town Museum on 021 404 1967 and www. with cutting-edge jewellery designs on display.heartofcapetown. The collection is updated all the time.com. Gold of Africa Museum on 021 405 1540 and www. The Bo-Kaap Museum (71 Wale Street) is a social history museum which attempts to explain the complexities of the neighbourhood. HEART OF CAPE TOWN MUSEUM The world’s first successful human-to-human heart transplant was performed in the city’s Groote Schuur Hospital in 1967 by Dr Christiaan Barnard. who subsequently achieved worldwide fame.co. GOLD OF AFRICA MUSEUM This museum celebrates exactly what its name suggests: gold as used through the ages in Africa. to the visitor. Detail: Bo-Kaap Museum on 021 481 3939.
Spanish. St George’s Cathedral. Once you’ve bought a ticket. the Red Route goes past the Clock Tower (part of the V&A Waterfront).30 am to 6 pm (with seasonal variations). Imizamo Yethu township. key 19).050 EASY TOUR BY OPEN-TOP BUS KEY 19 Cape Town by open-top bus City Sightseeing Cape Town does a simple thing very well. the Table Mountain Cableway station. the Castle. Presuming you start from outside the Two Oceans Aquarium at the V&A Waterfront. French. the District Six Museum. sunscreen and a warm item of clothing as weather conditions can vary considerably at different parts of the tour. There is running commentary in English (with abbreviated notes in Portuguese. Pack a hat. Their buses run two set routes past Cape Town’s major attractions. Above: Seen here driving under the Twelve Apostles towards Camps Bay.citysightseeing. The Blue Route follows the same course as far as the tourism office. down towards Camps Bay. Hout Bay harbour. The buses run from 9. .za. and then back to the Atlantic seaboard’s scenic drive along Victoria Road until you reach Camps Bay and then the Waterfront. German and Italian) by a qualified guide on the buses. the South African Jewish Museum. through Sea Point and back to the Waterfront. It’s a round trip. along Victoria Road to the President Hotel. but then heads southwards around Devil’s Peak to Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. so at the end. the Cape Town Tourism office in Burg Street. the Cape Town International Convention Centre. you can hop on or off at any stop. you just get off where you started (or anywhere you like). The distinctive red buses come past each stop frequently. across Constantia Nek to the World of Birds in Hout Bay.co. Detail: 021 511 6000 and www. the South African Museum. the Gold of Africa Museum. the City Sightseeing buses set out from outside the Two Oceans Aquarium (front map.
And remember to cover your ears! KEY 20 Above: Besides one almighty bang. . Stroll down the path to the Noon Gun Tea Room (021 424 0529) afterwards. Cannon? Situated above the Bo-Kaap on the slopes of Signal Hill. noon. This is one show you can’t be late for. The puff of smoke could also be seen better from there by the ships at anchor. later at 1 pm and. That just means that all is well and that the cannon fired successfully. the Waterfront and Green Point (front map. The British. when the backup charge also failed to fire. in 2005. key 20). Directions: To reach the Noon Gun. He actually only loads a charge into the cannons (both are loaded in case one misfires) as they are fired electronically from the South African Astronomical Observatory. two 18-pounder smooth-bore muzzle loaders have been announcing 12 pm since 1902. where the Misbach family prepares some of the city’s finest Malay food. follow the brown Noon Gun signs from Upper Leeuwen Street where it turns out of Buitengracht. For precision tuning of their clocks it was better to look for the puff of smoke rather than lose the extra few seconds it would take for the sound to carry. in the suburb of Observatory. where they were first used to announce the arrival of new ships in the harbour and later to indicate a certain time of day – at first they were fired at sunset.N O O N G U N H E R I TAG E 051 The Noon Gun Don’t be alarmed if you hear a loud boom sounding out across the city bowl at noon every day. Dudley Malgas has been firing the cannons for more than a decade and a half now and gives a short but interesting lecture on the cannons to assembled tourists before it’s fired. later moved the guns to their current position because they were making too much of a racket in town. the cannons have only been quiet once. the Noon Gun also offers a good view over the city. who took control of the Cape from the Dutch in 1806. eventually. so give yourself extra time to get there. The guns used to be down at the Castle. Since 1902.
Above: The spacious swimming pool section of the Long Street Baths is open to men and women throughout the week (front map. Men get Tuesday afternoons (after 1 pm). but are in general 8. key 21). Inside the building. it’s hard to remember that rush-hour traffic and a sidewalk full of people are only a few metres and walls away. . You can also simply come for a swim – there are several regulars who do laps. Detail: Long Street Turkish Baths on 021 423 9849. It’s unassuming from the outside. Opening and closing times vary slightly from day to day. It is run by the City Council and you can get a massage and a Turkish bath for under R100. This Victorian interpretation of the Turkish bath reached other Anglo countries like Canada. The Long Street Turkish Baths are situated at the very top end of Long Street. Australia and New Zealand long before the first one was opened in South Africa. The pool is open to everyone throughout the week. You can’t compare it to the facilities and services available at upmarket spas in town. but inside the space opens up to reveal a lovely heated pool and interesting mosaics on the walls. the Turkish bath was taken up by the English from 1860 onwards. Sunday mornings (until noon) and all day on Wednesdays and Fridays. There are changing rooms and a Turkish bath.052 LONG STREET BATHS SWIM & SAUNA KEY 21 Long Street Baths Though the concept is obviously Turkish in origin. The Turkish bath facility is open to women all day on Mondays. Thursdays and Saturdays and on Tuesday mornings (until 1 pm). but a few hours spent at the Baths can still be a relaxing escape from the hustle and bustle outside. The Long Street Baths were opened in 1908 and the Turkish Bath section in 1927. when hundreds of baths were opened in Britain.30 am to 7 pm.
labia. The cinema also hosts speciality film festivals along themes such as Horror. the Italian consul to South Africa during the first half of the 20th century. an extensive documentary film festival usually held during July. The people who man the shop. co. starting at 11. A small café lies at the entrance. but it’s the four old theatres on Orange Street which are the really charming ones. fine popcorn and a café full of movie fundis (front map. During the day. It is hosted at the NuMetro complex in the V&A Waterfront. pigeons wander into the foyer to snack on stray kernels of popcorn. old-fashioned theatres remain one of the best places to see art-house films in Cape Town. KEY 22 Above: The Labia Theatre on Orange Street has retro charm.za.30 am with the last film starting at 8. the theatre was opened in 1949 by Princess Ida Louise Labia.za for the line-up.30 pm. unlike what you might experience at a big cinema complex.co. the ticket counter and the theatre doors have been working here for a long time. Encounters Documentary Film Festival on www.za . The Out in Africa Gay & Lesbian Film Festival is hosted there during September. There are two new screens in the Lifestyle Centre on Kloof Street.co. the Labia’s intimate.T H E L A B I A R E T RO C I N E M A 053 The Labia Theatre There are many places to watch a movie in Cape Town and its surrounding suburbs but these cineplexes are found in typically soulless.encounters. key 22). A highlight of the Cape film year is Encounters. Call 021 424 5927 or see www. In contrast. Named after Prince Natale Labia. the popcorn stand. Detail: Labia on Orange at 68 Orange Street and Labia on Kloof in the Lifestyle Centre. Out in Africa Gay & Lesbian Film Festival on www. There are generally five screenings per day.oia. modern shopping malls. where coffee. a muffin or a glass of wine can be ordered. Russian films. and between them hold a good collective memory of the theatre. They are always up for a chat. Animal Rights and the Environment. popcorn.
But a walk up the street during daytime will reveal great shopping opportunities and it’s an ideal time to scout out a place at which to dine in the evening. Photos: Beetles and Vespa scooters add retro flair to Kloof Street (front map. . key 23). no matter how outlandish your request. situated in a Victorian-style villa. which is hard to find elsewhere in the city) and sushi. Lifestyle on Kloof is an upmarket shopping centre with a Woolworths. In the same area you will find a host of fashionable clothing. Foodwise you can choose between Caramello’s coffee shop and Kauai and for entertainment there is the Labia Theatre (see key 22). Hi-Five and ‘a store’ (yes. Kloof Street appears far more sedate. there is a chic eatery called Depasco Café Bakery and Tong Lok. Limnos Bakers. It culminates in and revolves around the Vida e Caffé. This trendy stretch is centred around City Varsity (a media and creative arts school) and the Long Kloof Studios of local TV-channel e-tv. toy. St Elmo’s pizza and Ocean Basket form a nice trio of choices as relaxed. Exclusive Books and PostNet (pricier but providing more peace of mind than the Post Office). The Opal Lounge. Scar Hair will cut your hair whichever way required. naga. for quick and affordable Chinese (including dim sum. Shopping tip: Check out the cute Woo-men dolls at ‘a store’ (021 422 2888). Biblioteq Bookshop.054 KLOOF STREET WALK & SHOP KEY 23 Kloof Street Lacking the charm of Long Street’s Edwardian and Victorian buildings by day and its happening clubs and bars by night. and bookshops such as Eddie Zoom. Starting at the bottom end (from the top of Long Street). budget-friendly family restaurants. that’s its name). is a new restaurant at this end of the street.
Café Paradiso is a place for hearty meals and hunkering down with some red wine. Shopping tip: Mielie handbags come in fantastic designs – they are for sale at Heartworks (98 Kloof Street). while Manna across the road is a popular fine food eatery which serves pitchers of tangy cocktails. Facing the Jan van Riebeeck High School are Toni’s (Mozambican and Portuguese). At the top end of the street there is Bacini’s (excellent Italian. with Asokã (delicious tapas) one door down.055 ‘A walk up the street will reveal great shopping opportunities. healthy snacks) and Shelley’s Gourmet Café and Melissa’s (two decadent delis). Zucca Lounge (Italian). some claim. liquor store and Mixa’s Schwarma. pharmacy. a fine coffee shop. Heartworks sell unique. The incline of the street now gets quite steep as you see Gainsbourg. . Buzz (fast. Fabulous (Moroccan dishes) and Liquorice & Lime which serves a recommended fruit salad that even includes Cape gooseberries.’ Situated at the bottom of a tatty block of flats is Arnold’s (famous for cheap breakfasts) and the new Café Sofia (meze and tapas). At Topolino Café next door you can buy everything from tennis balls to braai briquettes to onions and oranges. but let’s not start a fist-fight). Gardens Continental Butchery & Seafood Warehouse is small but has an excellent range of fresh meat and fish (and. video store. an excellent Vietnamese restaurant (also good sushi). The Palmhof shopping centre houses a Checkers supermarket. the best dried sausage in town. On the corner with Camp Street you can’t miss Saigon. Da Vinci (pizza and gourmet burgers) is underneath. homespun gifts and LIM is a minimalist sort of homeware store. especially their pizzas).
Delis are not cheap places at which to eat – if you wanted a quick sandwich you’d have popped in at the fuel station store anyway – but they’re fine places from which to watch the neighbourhood go by. The baristas know all the locals by name and loud. but our favourite is the Bantry Bay branch (19 Victoria Above: Giovanni’s Deliworld (front map. or eat in and enjoy their delicious coffees. and many delis are just small. friendly conversations are the order of the day. key 24. Like Melissa’s. and it’s not always exactly what you might expect. glorified coffee shops that sell a range of fine foods – and that’s good enough for us. key 24. No-one really talks about a delicatessen here. Agreement far and wide is that the best deli in town is Giovanni’s Deliworld in Green Point (103 Main Road). . Carlucci’s now also have a handful of stores around Cape Town and the surrounding suburbs.056 GOOD FOOD CIT Y DELIS KEY 24 Delis Nothing quite beats the decadent goodness of sitting down in a deli and eating something delicious while paging through the newspaper or concurring with friends over coffee. Melissa’s Food Shop offers a great view over Kloof Street (94 Kloof Street) and its shelves hold many an edible delight – perfect for a special gift. Here you can buy choice ingredients (such as cold meats) for the beach picnic you’ve got planned later in the afternoon. Their breakfast oats are of a consistency which hints at some great kitchen secret and is a healthy way to kickstart your day. Opposite: Melissa’s Food Shop (front map. Deli culture in Cape Town is still quite new.2). but who cares.1).
Carlucci’s on 021 439 6476. Others just meet here and look cool wearing sunglasses while the traffic streams past. It is one of the very few places at which to eat once you’ve left Sea Point and moved onto Victoria Road heading for Clifton or Camps Bay. Sage on 021 461 7868. In the heart of the city – or. Knead Bakery & Coffee Shop (McKenzie Street. Caveau Wine Bar & Deli on 021 422 1367. broad beans and a lemon and thyme dressing? Oxtail with roast parsnip? Yup. Melissa’s on 021 424 5540. Detail: Giovanni’s Deliworld on 021 434 6893. a couple of blocks away – lies Caveau Wine Bar & Deli (92 Bree Street). bockwurst. Wembley Square) focuses on baked goods – they make 21 different breads! Raith Gourmet (Gardens Centre) is the only authentic German deli in town and it focuses on meats. Come here for your fix of eisbein. Tucked away in residential Tamboerskloof is The Daily Deli (13 Brownlow Road). this popular spot serves fine meals and fine wines to go with them. where locals put their dogs’ leashes under the chair while they tuck into the sumptuous light meals on offer. Afterwards you can explore the steep streets of this attractive suburb to help your meal settle. . we thought so. The Daily Deli on 021 426 0250. an organic food shop which makes exotic shakes and is a popular lunch spot as they have an organic buffet feast starting at noon. sauerkraut and cheeses. Just down the road is Sage (117 Hatfield Street). at least. Knead Bakery & Coffee Shop on 021 462 4183.057 ‘Delis are fine places from which to watch the neighbourhood go by.’ Road). Raith Gourmet on 021 465 2729. Anyone with an appetite for honey-glazed quail with mushrooms and raspberries? Rare tuna with white asparagus. Many locals go for a walk or run along this road and then make Carlucci’s their rest stop. Its porch always heaving with customers over lunchtime.
co.za . key 25). Above: Drag artist Odidi lets loose at Friendly Society in De Waterkant (front map.capetownpride. The Bronx is famous for its topless barmen. often until daylight the next morning. The bar welcomes straights and gays alike in a celebratory atmosphere.058 DE WATERKANT PART Y TOWN KEY 25 De Waterkant Situated in a small area around Somerset Road. Café Manhattan on 021 421 6666. Dixon Street). The Bronx (22 Somerset Road) is probably the best-known gay club in Cape Town. creating a jovial atmosphere from early evening. The cheese platter is a must.bronx. bars and restaurants. There are several nightclubs. hosting everything from Monday-night karaoke to Friday’s Frisky Disco and beyond. containing an array of local nibbles. De Waterkant is the party capital of Cape Town. or settle down for the night inside The Nose Restaurant & Wine Bar (Cape Quarter. The Fiesta Tapas Café Bar is in the trendy Cape Quarter (72 Waterkant Street) and also hosts a salsa party on Friday nights. Detail: Friendly Society on 021 421 6969. Cubana Latino Café & Cigar Lounge (9 Somerset Road) is big and loud. The Nose Wine Bar on 021 425 2200. to the occasional drag show. Bronx Action Bar on 021 419 9216 and www. where the fine food and a vast collection of wines will not let you down. whose friendly demeanour and beautiful biceps are the inspiration for generous tipping.za. head for Café Manhattan’s delectable burgers (74 Waterkant Street). Cape Town is a self-proclaimed Pink City with a proud gay community. and De Waterkant’s clubs are a draw-card to gay tourists and locals alike.co. If you’re in the mood for a meal. It’s regarded as a gay bar but everyone is welcome. Fiesta Tapas Café Bar on 021 418 5121. Also see www. Friendly Society and Salsa Restaurant (125a Waterkant Street) hosts everything from salsa classes to dance parties. while a more personal venue with ‘regular’ charm is the Beulah Bar (cnr Somerset & Cobern Roads).
Cairn.com for a pad to your liking. Property: If you are indeed a Hollywood star. Real estate here.cliftononsea. There are actually five beaches. and Clifton can get just as busy as Camps Bay during the height of summer. There’s one big difference though: Clifton is just a little harder to get to. such as Apostle. there are no restaurants or shops at Clifton – it’s strictly a residential area. key 26). The parking area is about the size of a tennis court. but every now and then a Hollywood star hides out here. towards Sea Point. Unlike Camps Bay. look for the signs which indicate the steps that will take you down to the beach. renting a beach house here is not cheap. and Fourth Beach is the one closest to Camps Bay. even the small ‘shacks’ next to the beach. are worth many millions. browse www. As a result. then Clifton is the beach Capetonians would most like to hide from the crowds. Several sets of stairs connect the two roads.C L I F TO N B E AC H L I V I N G 059 Clifton If Camps Bay is Cape Town’s world famous beach. or even on Kloof Road. There are four beaches and the signs will also indicate how to find each one. for a small slice of sand between Second and Third is known as Clifton Two-and-a-half! Clifton Fourth is the biggest and most popular with the crowds and much more sheltered than Camps Bay. Once you are parked above Clifton. . Kasteel and Biskop steps. KEY 26 Above and next pages: Clifton’s beaches are far better than any brochure might hint at (front map. which is the other road that hugs the steep mountainside here. But their secret is now well and truly out. which means that you have to park along Victoria Road. First Beach is the one furthest to the north.
0060 KEY 26 Clifton Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
0061 pull quote .
Sea Point is a cosmopolitan suburb. key 27.062 SEA POINT COSMOPOLITAN SUBURB KEY 27 Sea Point It is amazing how the energy changes when you round the fat foot of Signal Hill (the whole extension is actually called the Lion’s Rump) and enter the suburb of Sea Point. Only a couple of blocks inland from Beach Road is Main Road. its proximity remains tangible. and the fact that it has been open for about three decades Above: Venezia Gelateria (front map. the first of its kind in Cape Town. Opposite: The suburb of Sea Point as seen from Ocean View Drive (front map. key 27. the harbour. Tom Yum Restaurant on 021 434 8139. But if you are driving along Sea Point’s Beach Road. RG Kabab Mahal on 021 434 0008. Unlike the city centre. This cosmopolitan nature is reflected in the plethora of dining choices you have down the length of Main Road. immediately. Maz Sushi Bar (127 Main Road). the suburb’s real artery. Though you can’t see the sea from here. Aris Souvlaki on 021 439 6683. with vehicles in constant doubt over whether there are one or two lanes.1). they have a fondness for taking the inside lane when you’re not looking. Mario’s Restaurant on 021 439 6644. but nowadays also for people from across the continent – Nigerians. Saul’s Saloon & Grill on 021 434 5404. known for its large Jewish population (the suburb has four synagogues). Posticino Ristorante on 021 439 4014.2). has very reasonable prices. Sea Point is in active engagement with the sea. In the city. There is a proliferation of Chinese. Main Road is a hazardous street to drive down. Detail: Maz Sushi Bar on 021 439 1806. And keep a sharp eye out for the taxis. Soju Bar on 021 434 3278. Congolese and Angolans. . The Cedar Restaurant on 021 433 2546. the brightness coming from the water and the salty smell brings the ocean into your car. Sea Point’s inhabitants maintain Venezia (94b Main Road) offers the best ice cream and sorbet in Cape Town. all congregate on its corners and in its eateries. Japanese and now even Korean restaurants as the population mix keeps evolving. highway and foreshore development hide the sea from the visitor.
and it’s open until 3 am. Soju Bar (359 Main Road) is a Korean restaurant with a relaxed atmosphere. Sea Point is in active engagement with the sea. Vegetarians will also be content with a wide array of tofu dishes.’ provides evidence in support of its scoops’ deliciousness. pastas and hearty mains. . mango and lemon sorbets are the finest fruity palette-cleansers that could be imagined. Two-tiered flavours such as rum ’n raisin and honey ’n hazelnut are among the most popular. which offers more flamboyant pizza toppings. each with their own dedicated clientele.063 ‘Unlike the city centre. But younger customers tend to flock to Posticino Ristorante (323 Main Road). and they swear by the fresh salads. Some of Mario’s Restaurant (89 Main Road) patrons have been eating there every week for three decades. Saul’s offers enormous steaks and burgers at good prices. complimented by the colourful marine life in its aquarium. Saul’s Saloon & Grill (152 Main Road) is a renowned late-night establishment and a favourite with homebound revellers who have danced their glucose levels to zero. but the litchi. The Cedar Restaurant (upstairs at 100 Main Road) serves good Lebanese food in a relaxed environment and RG Kabab Mahal (315 Main Road) is renowned as one of the best restaurants for North Indian cuisine. There are several Italian restaurants on the strip. Tom Yum Restaurant (72 Regent Road – the last section of Main Road is known as Regent Road) is a suave Asian restaurant and near the end of the strip is Aris Souvlaki (83a Regent Road). a Greek spot with superb lamb dishes.
Glen Beach lies off to the right. fantastic scenery and interesting people. Notice how we don’t mention swimming. Facing the ocean. because from here you can Photos: The Camps Bay tidal pool (above) and the adjacent beach and trendy drag filled with bars and eateries (opposite page) will keep you coming back for more (back map. Swimming here entails running into the icy water. maybe getting your head under the first wave and then sprinting back to the warmth of the sand. . safe tidal pool. (Some would say you work at home on that tan. When swimming.064 CAMPS BAY BEACH LIVIN G KEY 28 Camps Bay If someone is stuck in an office in Johannesburg and daydreaming of being on vacation in Cape Town. read. Sun-worshipping locals and tourists come here to show off their tans or to work very hard on them. with houses jostling for a view of the beautiful crescent-shaped bay. it’s not that bad. chances are that the daydream is set in Camps Bay. That’s where you’ll see the surfers when the waves are good. be careful not to dive in the shallows as there are often hidden sandbanks. lie. Well. head for Clifton Fourth (key 27) which is more sheltered. play beach bats or kick a ball. then come show it off here!) The suburb which lies up towards the lower slopes of the Twelve Apostles is a well-to-do one. To the left of the main beach you will find a calm. just beyond Fisherman’s Rock. for the water on this side of the peninsula is never warm. a colourful throng of people competing for space to sit. key 28). cocktail bars. but you get the picture. everything that shouts ‘living it up!’ is at arm’s length: the ocean. good restaurants. During December and January the main beach here is packed. And if the wind is howling. When you are down on the beach on a sunny day. The best places to eat and drink are on Victoria Road.
Primi Piatti on 021 438 2923. so too Baraza. If you want something with plusher seating. Summerville Restaurant on 021 438 3174. Sinnful on 021 438 3541. Sinnful is the ice-cream shop you’ll be looking for on a hot day – it’s also in the Promenade Centre. then head for Baraza (the name means ‘meeting place’ in Swahili) in the Promenade Centre – it’s also a fine spot for sundowners while you hatch plans for the night ahead. Dizzy Jazz Café (also in The Drive) has no pretensions. past Glen Beach. and the sea glistens beyond the white beach. It’s a bar which also serves food and there is usually a live jazz band. More or less behind the Promenade Centre (37 The Drive). cars and taxis with souped up sound-systems hump past. Detail: General info on www. Sandbar (31 Victoria Road) has more of a café atmosphere and serves Mediterranean-style light meals. La Med on 021 438 5600. Summerville (in the Promenade Centre) serves great cocktails. Blues on 021 438 2040. stand-up comedy and music shows throughout the year.com. It has great outdoor seating and DJs to entertain the sometimes large crowds who gather here in summertime to will the sun down with beer and banter.za . The theatre hosts plays.campsbaytourism. Paranga on 021 438 0404. Baraza on 021 438 1758.co. Dizzy Jazz Café on 021 438 2686. Once the sun has set and the view becomes less of a factor. as folk lounge under the palm trees. Theatre on the Bay is near the police station on Link Street and run by South African theatre legend Pieter Toerien. La Med is at the Glen Country Club just along Victoria Road.065 ‘Everything that shouts “living it up!” is at arm’s length.theatreonthebay. Codfather on 021 438 0782. Unlike most of the nightlife in Camps Bay. explore a little further.’ keep your finger on it. you’ll find The Codfather which has a good sushi bar and a huge selection of fresh fish and squid. Theatre on the Bay on 021 438 3301 and www.
0066 KEY 28 Camps Bay Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
The Cedar Café on 021 433 2546. Tom Yum Restaurant on 021 434 8139. Soju Bar on 021 434 3278.0067 pull quote Details: Maz Sushi Bar on 021 439 1806. Mario’s Restaurant on 021 439 6644. RG Kabab Mahal on 021 434 0008. Aris Souvlaki on 021 439 6683 . Posticino Ristorante on 021 439 4014. Saul’s Saloon & Grill on 021 434 5404.
Info about long-distance swimming on www. key 29). so winter can be a bit of an endurance test. During summer. Photos: The Sea Point Pavilion Pool (front map. During summertime.30 am to 5 pm. The swim to Robben Island is a feather in several swimmers’ caps here. Detail: Sea Point Pavilion on 021 434 3341.com . Camps Bay tidal pool and Gordon’s Bay beach. Turn around to face inland and Lion’s Head rises up above the high-rise apartments so characteristic of Sea Point. There is an Olympic-sized pool. Serious and recreational swimmers alike enjoy the facility. you can rent an umbrella or pool lounger. also known as the Sea Point Pavilion. It lies right on the ocean at the top end of Beach Road. Clovelly tidal pool. There is a large expanse of grass and. Its water is filtered seawater – unheated. the pool is open from 7 am to 7 pm and during winter from 8.capeswim. good places at which to swim are: Fish Hoek beach. two smaller splash pools for the kids to enjoy and a fully equipped springboard diving pool. These ‘skew’ trees are the work of the prevailing wind! In addition to other municipal pools in Cape Town (see sidebar). There is a large parking lot next door with some very funny-looking trees in it. if you didn’t bring your own. with families converging under a colourful collection of umbrellas to spread out their towels and settle down for the day.068 SEA POINT SWIMMIN G POOL KEY 29 Sea Point Pool You will struggle to find a public pool with a better setting than the Sea Point Pool. Newlands on 021 674 4197. with many of the Cape’s renowned long-distance swimmers using the pool to do their training. St James tidal pool. the pool is as popular a hangout as Clifton or Camps Bay. Other municipal pools: Observatory on 021 689 4578.
red romans. Scuba Diving Cape Town at www. During dives you can see West Coast rock lobsters. But not all divers are interested in wrecks. Detail: Pisces Divers on 021 782 7205 and www. There are a number of companies offering similar services. KEY 30 Above: Pisces Divers operate out of Glencairn (back map. nudibranches. so Pisces also have reef dives such as Tafelberg Reef near the Sentinel at Hout Bay. in the dangerous waters at Cape Point. a navy patrol boat scuttled in 1988. Unreal Dive on 021 553 0748 and www.scubadive.africadiver. an English East-Indiaman which sank in 1805. but they dive everywhere around the peninsula. an enormous Portuguese passenger liner.com. Africa Diver on 082 564 7211 and www. is to the wreck of the Lusitania.za.com.za .za. such as the SS Gelderland. key 30). Scuba Shack on 021 785 6742 and www. One of their most challenging dives. between Fish Hoek and Simon’s Town. There are several diving outfits which will take experienced scuba divers to some of these wrecks. but dive all around the Peninsula. and a dive where you can witness Cape fur seals and great white sharks around Seal Island in False Bay. tuberculate cuttlefish.co.unrealdive. They try to dive unusual wrecks.co. steenbras and sponges. Pisces Divers are based in Glencairn.co. colourful coral. If you have never dived before.scubashack. and the Brunswick. which we list in the sidebar. you can also sign up for a beginner’s course.E N J OY T H E O C E A N D I V I N G 069 Diving The Cape of Good Hope was also known to early seafarers as the Cape of Storms – with good reason! The violent storms which often batter these coasts have seen the demise of many ships and they still claim a vessel every now and then.piscesdivers. Seal Island is the only place in the world where great whites are known to breach the surface of the water in their efforts to catch seals.
like Martin Melck House (the Gold of Africa Museum). These three buildings are the best surviving examples of two-storey. key 31. Many Victorian buildings still adorn Long Street. now a unit of the National Library of South Africa. Another Edwardian-era highlight is the Centre for the Book (62 Queen Victoria Street). of which the Blue Lodge (206-208 Long Street) is probably the most spectacular. on 11 February 1990. Below: The façade of KoopmansDe Wet House (021 481 3935) was most probably designed by French architect Louis Thibault and Dutch sculptor Anton Anreith (front map. It was designed in 1900 and originally served as a boarding house. Koopmans-De Wet House was built late in the 18th century and has. key 31. Just hours after he was set free from prison. Martin Melck House (96 Strand Street) and Grosvenor House (Village Museum complex. Above: The Bellville City Hall was opened at the height of the apartheid era. been converted into a museum. Nelson Mandela made his first speech as a free man to thousands of euphoric citizens from the balcony of the City Hall. Stellenbosch – key 71). This Edwardian building was completed in 1905 and the town administration moved their offices here from the Town House at Greenmarket Square.070 CIT Y ARC HITECTURE HERITAGE KEY 31 Architecture GRAND OLD DUTCH TOWNHOUSES It’s hard to imagine that well-to-do townhouses once all looked like Koopmans-De Wet House (35 Strand Street). in 1956 (back map.2). the Cape Town City Hall was host to a most momentous occasion in South African history. The Cape Philharmonic Orchestra plays here and the building houses a library and some courts. THE ENGLISH HEART OF THE CITY Facing the Grand Parade on Darling Street.3). . flat-roofed patrician town houses.
practical spaces which can make even the most mundane convention or exhibition seem modern and relevant. designed by principal architects Revel Fox and Anya van der Merwe Miszewski. Detail: Cape Philharmonic Orchestra on 021 410 9809 and www. ‘Almost’ – because big events are still staged here from time to time. Mullers Optometrists (cnr Parliament & Longmarket streets) and Protea Assurance (cnr Longmarket Street and St George’s Mall).za .cpo.’ ART DECO One of the finest and most obvious examples of the Art Deco building style in Cape Town is the Old Mutual building (cnr Darling & Parliament streets).4). now known as Mutual Heights since its conversion to a residential space. It was for a long time the tallest building in Africa. Right next door is the old Post Office. key 31. but a fine example nonetheless. the Good Hope Centre (cnr Sir Lowry & Oswald Pirow) was once the foremost exhibition hall in Cape Town. has very quickly been taken up by Capetonians who enjoy its large. which is a far simpler. key 31. THE OLD AND THE NEW Designed by Italian Antonio Nervi and completed in 1977.071 ‘The City Hall was host to a most momentous occasion in South African history.1).org. Above: The Cape Town City Hall (front map. but the Cape Town International Convention Centre (CTICC) has now finally made it almost obsolete. Other Art Deco sites in the city centre include the old provincial administration offices (cnr Wale & Victoria streets). The CTICC (Coen Steytler Avenue). starker building without the ornate elements of Mutual Heights. Below: The Blue Lodge at 206– 208 Long Street (front map.
And not just a sleek. Above: A delicious koeksister (sweet confectionary) from the Noon Gun Tea Room in the BoKaap (front map. chips and cheese. It consists of an enormous 70-cm French loaf and comes stuffed with any of a variety of things: polony. If a hotdog was a humble Toyota Corolla. which comes with a small onion salad – delicious when mixed with the meat. Four people can easily share a single gatsby. and lettuce. key 32. of which there are two outlets in the city – 101 St George’s Mall and 33 Heerengracht on the foreshore. key 32. but not quite eat alone. tomatoes and cheese all in one! It’s the food of the people and you’ll see construction workers and office workers alike queuing up for them at eateries all over town during their lunch breaks.2). just that ‘it’s a Cape Town thing’. but be prepared for a bit of heartburn afterwards. double chips and cheese. Its selection of salomies (roti filled with curried meat) and curries is fantastic. a gatsby is a thing you can eat. . but an SUV-limo: large. fish and chips. Yes. Russian sausage. and even chips and steak. robust and totally over the top. communal meal. slim limo. chips and chips. So let’s take a good guess and say it’s called a gatsby because it’s a great (and a very big) thing. then a gatsby would be without doubt something like a limousine.1). Opposite: Sanaullah Usman displays one of Mariam’s Kitchen’s monstrous (and delicious) gatsbys (front map. onions. But Mariam’s is also outstanding for other. One of the best places in the city centre to buy a gatsby is Mariam’s Kitchen. less pummelling local fare. It’s supposed to be an economical. Try the chicken salomie.072 LOCAL FOOD DINE OUT KEY 32 Local food Even people who have been making gatsbys all their lives can’t quite say why it’s called a gatsby.
but not quite eat alone. Two other authentic Cape Malay restaurants are Biesmiellah’s and the Noon Gun Tea Room in the Bo-Kaap (see key 16). You can’t sit down here (except for on the kerb) and you order through a hatch.’ For a quick snack. which just boggles the mind. the bunny chow. spring rolls or delicious daltjies (a deep-fried chilli-bite). limited to a few scattered stalls which mostly operate during lunch hours on weekdays to serve the city centre’s workforce. other Cape Town street food is scarce.073 ‘A gatsby is a thing you can eat. These sell everything from boerewors (traditional sausage) rolls to falafels and hot dogs. The owners being from Durban.co. available from many cafés and small shops (see key 33). Rylands) is widely regarded to be the holy grail: the birthplace of the gatsby.mariamskitchen. . Sunrise Chip ’n Ranch on 021 689 3250. The Golden Dish on 021 633 7864. All Mariam’s food is strictly Halaal. Besides fish and chips. The Golden Dish (Gatesville Centre.za. Detail: Mariam’s Kitchen on 021 423 0772 and www. Lekker! The home of the gatsby is arguably out on the Cape flats. they also sell that city’s pride and joy. but as street as street food gets. At 94 Main Road in Mowbray is another takeaway institution. There is a legendary stall which is set up on the sidewalk towards the top of Long Street on busy party nights which makes the hungry punters queue for delicious schwarmas and boerewors rolls. There are gatsbys of every denomination. potato wadas. even a roti-gatsby. grab samoosas. Sunrise Chip ’n Ranch. which is half a loaf of bread stuffed with curry of your choice. Klipfontein Road. so things are spartan.
Lusitania Fisheries (47a Waterkant Street) is a good place to start. they might move on to the customer next to you. the Teixeiras. neatly wrapped in white paper. From around noon until 2 pm. key 33). takeaway fish and chips is a Cape Town staple. Generally. you’ll be handed a warm bundle. The items you’ll find most commonly on menus will be variations in portions of hake. A lunch hour spent here will tell you much more about Capetonians than a week spent tanning on Camps Bay beach ever will. Make sure that you know what you want by the time you get there. While you can buy fish and chips at the V&A Waterfront. The speed with which your parcel of fish and chips is assembled is amazing. Above: Another expertly assembled parcel of fish and chips leaves the assembly line at Lusitania Fisheries (front map. Head straight for the counter. Try to visit the outlet at the Cape Town station. if not entirely unique. where there will already be a polite scrum. Before you know it. . where they have a couple of tables inside. you will not go hungry. the outlets are now part of the cultural landscape in Cape Town. the place is packed. snoek or calamari and chips. for less then R30. you’ll have to head into the city centre to find some authentic places. you can’t go wrong with Texies.074 FISH AND C HIPS THE BEST KEY 33 Best fish and chips Like the gatsby (key 32). As a side order you can ask for a pickled onion – if they don’t sell pickled onions then you know you’re not at a ‘real’ fish-and-chips joint. South Africans like their fish deep-fried and their chips salty and with a good splash of vinegar. because if you um and aah for a moment too long. Despite being a franchise. Built up by a Portuguese immigrant family.
wooden bowls. farmers from the outlying farms and freed slaves brought in their produce. KEY 34 Photos: Greenmarket Square is a jumbled swathe of colour in the city centre where you might meet someone truly interesting. key 34). Detail: Greenmarket Square on www. is the Central Methodist Church. T-shirts sporting Madiba (Nelson Mandela) or Guevarra on the front.com . Greenmarket Square is a place both heavy with history and joyfully adamant about a Pan African future. Besides the Old Town House (1755). the Old Town House and the whole of Greenmarket Square were all purple that day. that Cape Town’s estimated 35 000 slaves were finally emancipated. A darker side of its history is that it was a place where slaves were once sold. but don’t expect to pick up anything dirt cheap. like the ‘Eggy Man’ on the next pages (front map.S H O P F O R A F R I CA N A RT 075 Greenmarket Square Situated right in the heart of the city. Pay what you’re prepared to pay is a good motto to go by. paintings of Table Mountain. the square is (almost) carless by day.greenmarketsquare. on 1 December 1834. As its name indicates. it was once a place where vegetables were sold. colourful artistic collages of townships. so it is a pedestrian-friendly area. Initially these came out of the Company Gardens – the main entrance of which was nearby. another significant building which borders the square. On sale will be leather bags. In 1989 an anti-apartheid protest held here was dispersed by police using a water gun. The church. You can generally bargain a little. handbags made from discarded vinyl records. Sit down on one of the benches and try to imagine what it looked like 300 years ago. beadwork and soapstone carvings. African dresses. With its cobbled surface underfoot. The water was dyed purple so that the police could apprehend all the ‘purple’ people afterwards. But it was also here. Later.
0076 KEY 34 Greenmarket Square Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
0077 pull quote .
Portia’s sticky chicken wings and Zanzibar bean stew. mango chicken kebabs. with happy tourists munching inside. with others following when it became obvious how big the demand was. it’s the food that keeps people coming back here. from the mystical décor (Coptic crosses) to the authentic way the food is presented. Above: Mama Africa on Long Street has a homely atmosphere (front map. It is a haven for vegetarians too. Addis in Cape (cnr Long and Church streets) specialises in Ethiopian food. Every night at least two coaches are parked outside. Marco’s African Place (15 Rose Lane) has live music on some nights and serves oxtail curry. kudu steak and Madagascar springbok in a green pepper sauce. pre-book a table on the open balcony top floor for fine city views. key 35). and as the restaurant focuses on cuisine originating from just one country. Besides the live marimba band. Try their biltong and feta salad. the quality and attention to detail is superb. At the Africa Café you can enjoy Xhosa imifino patties (delicious spinach and mealiemeal patties). Marco’s African Place on 021 423 5412. Whether you find the African-theme restaurants kitsch or the best thing ever.078 AFRICAN RESTAUR ANTS DINE OUT KEY 35 African restaurants Mama Africa (178 Long Street) was the first African-theme restaurant to open in the city. Nyoni’s Kraal (98 Long Street) serves local Malay recipes like breyani and bobotie and features ‘pap-and-meat towers’ and Mopani worms on their African menu. Addis in Cape on 021 424 5722. Tip: if it’s a warm night. . Mama Africa on 021 426 1017. Nyoni’s Kraal on 021 422 0529. This is usually a quieter spot. the food is the one thing that won’t disappoint. whose grooves spill out into vibrant Long Street on hot summer nights. Booking is essential: The Africa Café on 021 422 0221. Moroccan lamb pot roast and Mama’s malva pudding. You won’t miss the Africa Café (108 Shortmarket Street).
Chef Pon’s Sawaddee on 021 422 1633. Tank Restaurant & Sushi Bar on 021 419 0007. KEY 36 Above: Oishii Fusion Sushi Bar (next to Chef Pon’s Sawaddee) makes some tasty Thai-fusion sushi as well as traditional style sushi (front map. key 36). Wakame also serves cocktails and offers a great view. with no visible shop front except a small sign. De Waterkant Street). Kubo’s Little Japan on 082 855 0208. Willoughby & Co. which is part of the Chef Pon’s Sawaddee Thai restaurant in Rheede Street. who runs the kitchen himself when he is not in Japan. Minato on 021 423 4712.SUSHI DINE OUT 079 Sushi Not long ago. (V&A Waterfront) and Oishii Fusion Sushi Bar. It is an unassuming place. . Willoughby & Co. something few other sushi bars seem to have. the décor varies from massive kimonos to print advertisements featuring Mr Minato (he is a legendary character actor in local advertisements). Wakame in Mouille Point (cnr Beach Road & Surrey Place) is one of the most fashionable sushi joints. Detail: Wakame on 021 433 2377. Kubo’s Little Japan (48 Riebeeck Street) is one of the more authentic sushi places and also serves other Japanese food. Inside. It’s a small. there are now many sushi options from which to choose. Kubo’s is open for lunch and offers discounts for female customers on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Possibly because of demand from foreign tourists or maybe because the city’s population is becoming more cosmopolitan. where he has another restaurant. on 021 418 6116. Those who know about Minato Japanese Sushi (4 Buiten Street) speak of it in hushed voices. Other highly recommended places include Tank Restaurant & Sushi Bar (Cape Quarter. basement restaurant with a very relaxed atmosphere. Cape Town woke up to the culinary joy that is sushi. The design is clean – all cherry-wood counters and light streaming in from outside. for it is indeed not your average sushi spot.
the Cape Cobras. which is just as well.za. generally play a handful of games at Newlands during the season. Twenty20 matches generally last little longer than four hours while ‘one day’ games can run for about nine hours – a good day at the office. because unlike rugby or soccer. The provincial side of nearby Boland have their home at Paarl (key 70). The format of the game varies.co. key 37). the Proteas. Test matches can last up to five days. Above: The best games at Newlands stadium are day/ night affairs as the atmosphere suddenly seems extra charged once the stadium lights go on (back map. Booking for big games is essential: Book tickets at www.co. The Cape Cobras at www. are undoubtedly the Twenty20 and the slightly longer one day matches. Take sunscreen.wpcc. The grounds are home to the Western Province cricket team. where international matches are staged every now and then. The national team. This means that the sport is perfectly suited to the spectator who wants to catch a bit of sun. it’s not a sport that can be played in the rain. maybe drink a cold draught beer and do some people watching.za . Many of the vendors who walk around selling cold drinks. ice cream and biltong have been working cricket matches for many years and are great characters to engage in conversation.com.computicket. officially named Sahara Park Newlands. so you can even bring a thick book along for those long. but domestic games happen almost weekly during the summer. The most vibrant matches hosted at Newlands Cricket Ground.080 CRIC KET SPORT KEY 37 Cricket Cricket is largely a summer sport. Western Province Cricket Club on 021 657 2003 and at www. At Newlands stadium you can choose between comfortable plastic seats under cover or a very popular grass embankment section where it is still permissible to bring along your gas braai and make your own lunch or dinner.capecobras. a warm sweater for the evening and a pair of binoculars to get closer to the action. boring stretches of play.
the national and regional teams participate in matches throughout most of the year. But the fact remains that it is a near religion in many communities – Cape Town and most of the Western Cape fall within this category. New Zealand and Australia – the Cape Town franchise team is officially known as the Vodacom Stormers. What should you be shouting when the home team has the ball in hand? ‘Proooooooviiiince!’ of course.R U G BY S P O RT 081 Rugby To visitors.thestormers. key 38).com. in 1995 and in 2007. KEY 38 Above: Schoolboy games such as this derby day match between Rondebosch and Bishops are very competitive affairs. Once that’s done. the Currie Cup. a club championship between the top 14 teams from South Africa.wprugby. get hold of the expat club.com. have won the Rugby World Cup twice. Cape Buccaneers at www. Gateway to Newlands offer stadium tours on 021 686 2150 and www. The national rugby team. including touch rugby. South Africans’ obsession with rugby might be hard to understand. gets under way.computicket. All Province and Stormers games happen at the home of Cape Town rugby. where rugby has been played since 1890. but to see the provincial or national team play. the Vodacom Stormers at www. Western Province (or simply ‘Province’ to its fans) has a proud history in this tournament. Newlands hosts approximately two international rugby tests per year and tickets always go very quickly. Detail: Buy tickets from www.newlandstours. the Springboks. the Newlands Rugby Stadium. Cape Buccaneers.za . meet for drinks too. While rugby is traditionally a winter sport in South Africa. so be quick off the mark. you must head to Newlands rugby stadium (back map. Western Province at www. play regular games. If you are in town for a while and want to join a club.co.capebuccaneers. The first major competition of the year is the Super 14.com. go for jogs along the promenade and. They are based at Hamiltons Rugby Club in Sea Point.com. South Africa’s oldest provincial tournament. yes.
sushi. flowers.za. but you can buy fruit and vegetables. why not pick your own strawberries? At Polkadraai Farm near Stellenbosch you can do just that from September to December. If you are in town for an extended period of time. The vibe is laid-back – this is where you’ll see the hipsters from Long Street buy their weekly ration of biltong. . Klondyke Cherry Farm on 023 312 1521. oysters. the nearest supermarket should suffice for all your fruit and vegetable needs. Participants vary. Above: The Neighbourgoods Market (back map.082 FRESH FOOD MARKETS EAT HEALTH Y KEY 39 Fresh food and fruits The Neighbourgoods Market at the Old Biscuit Mill in Salt River (Albert Road. honey. clothing and even holistic pet food. If you are staying in self-catering accommodation and on a modest budget. Everything sold here is organic. For something unusual. The Neighbourgoods Market is open every Saturday morning. key 39).co. pesto. tofu. neighbourgoodsmarket. cheeses. They make deliveries to your house on Wednesdays or you can pick up your order at one of the many points across the peninsula. Detail: Neighbourgoods Market on 021 448 1438 and www. Polkadraai Strawberry Farm on 021 881 3303. handpicked. chocolates. eco-friendly. At Klondyke Cherry Farm near Ceres you can pick cherries in November and December. Look out for bigger chains such as Fruit & Veg City which offer the best prices. wines. coffee. The Ethical Co-op at 021 706 7734. register with the folk from the Ethical Co-op who offer a wide range of organic food at decent prices. beer. woodfired breads. near the Salt River Circle) has risen to prominence in recent years as consumers have become more aware of the origin of foodstuffs. caught this very morning and so forth – food that will make you feel good both in the head and in the stomach.
fresh samoosas. Other markets include Greenmarket Square (key 34) and the Muizenberg/Sunrise beach market in the parking lot at Sunrise Circle..’ . headphones. chilli sauce. With industrial warehouses across the road and a railway on the other side blocking your view of the sea. bird boxes.. Eric Lustbader novels. vetkoek and mince. headphones. art. fresh samoosas. ceramic dogs and ducks and cats. old coins . The Kirstenbosch craft market happens at the Stone Cottages across the road from the Botanical Gardens on the last Sunday of every month except in July and August. a pickaxe.. books.. vases. What else can you find here? Take your pick: CDs.S H O P A N D S N O O P A LT E R NAT I V E M A R K E TS 083 Alternative markets Cape Town has nothing on the labyrinthine food and general goods markets of the East. office chairs. office chairs. key 40). funeral flowers. old coins. It’s usually on the first two Saturdays of the month and you can find it at the corner of Campground and Sandown roads in Rondebosch. ‘. skipping ropes. chilli sauce. and fishing rods. golf clubs. but not as interesting as Milnerton. Give the Rondebosch craft market a turn for homemade gifts and great pancakes. sandpaper. but the persistent snooper will discover a meticulously curated world of knickknacks at the Milnerton market. HulaHoops. ceramic dogs and ducks and cats. vases. hunting knives. The market is set up on an otherwise barren piece of land sandwiched between Table Bay and the busy Marine Drive (the R27) in Paarden Island every Saturday and Sunday. golf clubs. sewing machines. cookie tins. KEY 40 Above and next pages: The Milnerton second-hand goods market (back map. hunting knives. TV remotes. lamps. angle grinders. sandpaper. it’s not the prettiest location. but an hour or two spent here might just result in you finding that very specific door-handle you’ve always needed. which is most active on a Sunday. dolls.
0084 KEY 40 Alternative Markets Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
0085 pull quote .
co. Curious. Peter Eastman and Julia Rose Clark. Curious. Detail: ‘what if the world’ on www. Other galleries in the city centre include Focus Contemporary (cnr Loop and Hans Strijdom streets). Focus Contemporary on www.whatiftheworld. In the city centre.za.artthrob. Roger Ballen and Dale Yudelman.co.za is a very good general resource. besides its main exhibition space. Nearby in Observatory. David Goldblatt. a section called CUBE. .michaelstevenson.focuscontemporary. They also publish art books and magazines such as Art South Africa. They’re at 208 Albert Road. key 41). such as Avant Car Guard. com. co.za. these publications are a good representation of the real deal if you don’t have the money to purchase an artwork. www. AVA on www. com.za. Karlien de Villiers. ITCH and Snapped. or AVA (35 Church Street). focused exhibitions.co.za. Erdmann on www. Pieter Hugo and Zanele Muholi. The ‘what if the world’ gallery has made a name for itself as a gallery which gives exposure to the best young artists. curiouswhetstoneandfrankley. but the smaller galleries really have the scope to expose new talent.ava. iArt on www. The Michael Stevenson (160 Sir Lowry Road) gallery is especially strong on photography and represents renowned names such as Guy Tillim. where emerging design talent is on show. iArt (71 Loop Street) and the Association for Visual Arts.erdmanncontemporary.co. Whetstone & Frankley (87a Station Road) hosts small.086 AR T GALLERIES CULTURE KEY 41 Art galleries Contemporary South African and African art is alive and well in Cape Town’s select galleries.iart. The South African National Gallery (key 18) serves as a collective artistic vault that curates the progression of local art.com.bell-roberts. Whetstone and Frankley on www. Above: ‘what if the world’ gallery (back map. The Bell-Roberts gallery (176 Sir Lowry Road) has.com. Erdmann Contemporary and the Photographers Gallery ZA are housed at the same address (63 Shortmarket Street). Michael Stevenson on www. Bell-Roberts on www. Woodstock. Look out for work by Lien Botha.
co. The Baxter Theatre (Main Road. 37 Orange Street).T H E AT R E E N T E RTA I N M E N T 087 Theatre The biggest theatre complex in the city is Artscape. Besides top-quality local productions.baxter. situated on the foreshore (DF Malan Street). children’s theatre. a 540-seat auditorium and a small venue for 140 people.za. which still bring their pupils here to watch the annual Shakespeare play. The Vodacom Funny Festival is hosted here during June and July. comedy. opened with a production of The Taming of the Shrew. KEY 42 Above: The Intimate Theatre (front map.co.co. Intimate Theatre on 021 480 7105. Baxter Theatre on 021 685 7880 and www. key 42.maynardville.2). Excellent independent or student theatre gets exposure at UCT’s Little and Intimate Theatres (Michaelis Art School complex. jazz and opera. In 1956. Below: Artscape (front map.za. Most theatre and other city entertainment can be booked via Computicket (www. It consists of an Opera House that seats almost 1 200 people.za. Maynardville became a popular theatre venue. Rondebosch) is part of the University of Cape Town (UCT) and has three venues to cater for everything from big stage shows to more intimate productions. This is usually put on during January and February. Maynardville.za and 011 340 8000). computicket. The dream project of two renowned actresses of the time. while Kalk Bay Theatre is so special we devote a whole page to it elsewhere (key 99). the Baxter often brings select international performing artists and shows to Cape Town too. . Detail: Artscape on 021 410 9800 and www. It opened in 1971 as the Nico Malan Theatre. the wonderful open-air theatre in Wynberg (cnr Wolfe & Piers streets). but became Artscape in 2001.co.artscape. Maynardville on www. Throughout the year. the theatre stages a variety of productions including ballet. especially among schools. key 42.1).
Opposite: Mabu Vinyl is the best place to pick up local music (front map. key 43. Fridays or Saturdays. depending on what you’re looking for and how far you’re prepared to drive. hip ’n ready.r. If it gets too sweaty inside. It’s the perfect place to have a meal. a drink and watch a band. the crowd that assembles for midnight wisdoms on the balcony outside is as entertaining as the band onstage. The Assembly (61 Harrington Street) is a relatively new venue with good facilities and an efficient online booking system. hip hop and hard rock Above: Them Tornadoes rock out at Mercury Live (front map. with big gigs usually scheduled for Wednesdays. The Shy Guevaras and Them Tornadoes. Look out for gigs by Bed on Bricks. Try see bluesman Dave Ferguson or Babu. hip hop revolutionary. you’ll discover a tiny but happening little venue. The Rudimentals. Sweat X and The Real Estate Agents. On Mondays. acoustic sessions on Tuesdays and then a variety of indie rock. Mercury Live (43 De Villiers Street) is the best place for rock music.1). themed parties on the other nights. one of the best drummers you’ll ever come across. . generally a dead night out in Cape Town. and grungy. Once you’ve made it safely up the narrow staircase at the Waiting Room (173 Long Street). and good. Fokofpolisiekar (or one of their spin-off bands aKING and Van Coke Kartel). Zula often has comedy on Monday nights. The Zula Sound Bar (196 Long Street) is somewhere between homely. Check out bands like unit. Below: Waddy Jones. key 43.2). whose pulsating rhythms are driven by Kesivan Naidoo. the Mercury Lounge (downstairs from Live) hosts lively student parties during term time.088 LOCAL MUSIC ENTERTAINMENT KEY 43 Local music Cape Town has a thriving band scene with gigs happening almost throughout the week. It hosts live bands on Mondays and Tuesdays. Taxi Violence.
theassembly. The Assembly on www. The latter two acts don’t exist anymore. Good Morning. Lugsteuring by Fokofpolisiekar (rock). They’ll also be able to tell you when and where the next good gig is going down.’ on other nights.za. co.zulabar. with a dam full of geese to the side. rockingthedaisies.za. about an hour’s drive from Cape Town. the festival organisers ensure that the beautiful environment is treated with respect during the weekend-long festival. on a wine farm. Rocking the Daisies on www.089 ‘Any party featuring hip hop DJ Ready D will be legendary. Another festival.com. Nomvula by Freshlyground (pop). Try to catch a night with the Fong Kong Bantu Sound System featuring the likes of Real Rozanno and Dubmasta China.za. but if you’re lucky you’ll track down some of their albums at Mabu Vinyl (2 Rheede Street). just a 20 minute drive from the city. . Any party featuring hip hop DJ Ready D will be legendary – he has been one of the top DJs in the world for years now and was instrumental in the early days of hip hop in South Africa through his work with Prophets of da City and Brasse Vannie Kaap. Detail: Mercury Live lineup on www. South Africa by maxnormal. Die Boer on 021 979 1911. Zula Sound Bar on www.co. hosted by the Green Dolphin (key 9). are free and an excellent way to round off the weekend. Up the Creek on www. Out in Durbanville.za Classic Cape Town albums: Dark Days Exit by Felix Laband (electronica).co. an annual music festival held near Darling. Built on solid green credentials. Mabu Vinyl on 021 423 7635.co. Die Boer and Durbanville Kunskafee frequently hosts live bands. Caught in the Loop by Goldfish (dance). Durbanville Kunskafee on 021 979 3131.upthecreek. Weekends often belong to DJs and other creators of the party. A good place to enjoy a wide range of Cape Town acts is at Rocking the Daisies. tv (hip hop). Up the Creek. which usually happens late in September. The Levi’s Vintage Sundays sessions. takes place near Swellendam. It’s a really good place to shop for South African music as the owner and assistants are very knowledgeable. especially Afrikaans artists. usually early in February.mercuryl.
mostly fynbos. The strelitzia (opposite page) and protea (below) are some of the many spectacular flowers to be seen. Prof. Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden was established in 1913. in which he planted rare. and Van Riebeeck’s Hedge which was planted in 1660 to demarcate the then limits of the fledgling colony. If you want to learn more about the garden from an expert. Table Mountain alone has more plant species than the whole of the United Kingdom. 36 hectares stand cultivated. Encephalartos woodii. figured out that they’re perfectly fine to eat as long as you roast them first. The main feature here is Colonel Bird’s bath. fed by natural springs. Once a year. key 44). which contributes the greatest number of species to the incredibly rich Cape floral kingdom. slow-growing cycads (a caged cycad in this area. The early Khoi inhabitants of the area. the seeds of which are poisonous to eat as they contain cyanide. was the Dell. . The Peninsula Garden contains over 2 500 plant species. built in 1810 by the deputy Colonial Secretary of the same name.090 KIRSTENBOSC H BOTANICAL G ARDEN KEY 44 Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden Previously a rundown farm with rampant pigs snacking on acorns. For example. usually in March. Photos: Local group Goldfish entertains the masses (above) during a summer concert in Kirstenbosch (back map. Today. Kirstenbosch holds a Garden Fair where you get the chance to purchase some of their excess plants at very good prices. The first part of the garden to be developed by the early director of Kirstenbosch. It gradually grew as new gardens were planted and more species introduced. The Cape is famous for its fynbos (literally ‘fine bush’). however. Harold Pearson. The hedge consists of a type of indigenous almond. is already extinct in the wild). free guided walks set off from the information centre at the main gate at 10 am Monday through to Saturday.
You might find yourself sitting behind a clump of proteas without getting to see the band. You don’t need to be mad about plants to enjoy Kirstenbosch.’ It’s the perfect opportunity to ask that burning ‘What’s this one called?’ question. The garden is busiest on weekends and public holidays. Tips: Always walk in a group when on smaller back paths. featuring popular local acts such as Freshlyground and Goldfish. In the Tea Room you can order your food as a takeaway and enjoy it in the garden as picnic fodder. Detail: Information on 021 799 8783 and www. when senior citizens get in free. peace and quiet. so you might want to book on those days to ensure a table at one of the restaurants. . as traffic backs up and the best vantage spots are taken early.sanbi. During summer (December to March). The other facility. A word of warning: come hours early. massive outdoor concerts. Silvertree Restaurant and Fynbos Deli. and Robin Auld. It offers great walking. and an escape from the city – a perfect place to have a picnic or relax with a book for a few hours.091 ‘Table Mountain alone has more plant species than the whole of the UK. are held on the lawns. There’s also a Biennale (art with plants) and regular talks and eco-art workshops for kids during holidays. Silvertree Restaurant and Fynbos Deli on 021 762 9585. Norwegian smoked salmon.org. is a bit fancier and the picnic hampers offered include root vegetable crisps. Kirstenbosch Tea Room on 021 797 4883. We are afraid that means you can’t climb the trees. Stick to the paths and don’t touch or remove any plant or animal. The winter concert series take place in the Silvertree Restaurant and features a jazz and singer-songwriter lineup. Look out for Jannie ‘Hanepoot’ van Tonder and his Biggish Band. but also on Tuesdays. and garlic-and-olive focaccia.
midweek or weekend. because they are generally out when the wind blows. And for a good beach walk. Blouberg is such a beach. there will be other people around. you will see Robben Island. Primi Blue (14 Beach Boulevard) and Doodles Bar & Restaurant (110 Beach Boulevard). . Detail: Good places to eat at on the strip include Café Blouberg (20 Stadler Road). Above: Table Mountain’s iconic ‘postcard view’ photo can be taken from Blouberg Beach (back map. Situated across Table Bay. it could be bad news. Most postcard images of Table Mountain are taken from here. they’re not the biggest of the Cape beaches. The Table also looks as flat as can be. mind and soul as a long stroll on the beach. key 45). Although. The Blouberg (Blue Moutain) itself. because you are far enough from the mountain and at just the right angle for Devil’s Peak. in which case it might be better to enjoy the view from the shelter of your car. It is comparable to the Sea Point Promenade (key 5) with senior citizens taking a leisurely stroll and runners sweating it out on the pavement. although the best idea is to park near the southern end of the beach where there is an information centre. You can park anywhere along Otto du Plessis Drive once you get to Blouberg. is just inland behind you and was the site of a battle which eventually lead to the Cape being passed – for a second and final time – from Dutch to English control in 1806.092 BLOUBERG BEACH WALK KEY 45 Blouberg beach walk Few things are as refreshing for body. Closer to you. the ice-cream van might be out and kite-surfers busy setting up for the day. While the beaches close to the city centre – Camps Bay and Clifton – usually get all the attention thanks to their scenic settings. you need a beach that goes on and on and on. Whether it is morning or late afternoon. the Table and Lion’s Head to stand out very clearly from one another. and off to the right. which gives the beach and suburb its name. when the kitesurfers are out.
But just stay for the sunset. The road drops down steeply. Surfing is. . Straight ahead. where there is very little parking. when the waves are good. Be sure not to block a driveway. that’s what Llandudno is for. above the town. Llandudno was given its name after a visitor realised it looked just like a town in Wales of the same name. and then turn around to face the mountain.co. that’s what Llandudno is for. Take the short path past the public bathrooms and you’re on the beach. framed by enormous granite boulders. Beyond them lies Sandy Bay. KEY 46 Above: Llandudno beach looking towards Little Lion’s Head (back map. key 46). is the back end of the Twelve Apostles. The water is cold. Next pages: Llandudno beach looking inland towards the back of the Twelve Apostles. just about the only ‘shop’ in Llandudno. To the right is Little Lion’s Head and the big mountain on the far right is Karbonkelberg (‘carbuncle mountain’).’ Detail: www. Cape Town’s famous nudist beach. angling tighter and tighter towards the beach. The granite boulders which form the border of the beach on the south side are called Sunset Rocks. after which you will descend towards Hout Bay. so swimming isn’t big.za for accommodation options. a stunning stretch of white a few hundred metres long. ‘Just stay for the sunset. take Victoria Road past Camps Bay towards Hout Bay.llandudno. Walk all the way to the ocean. The turn off to Llandudno appears on your right just as the road starts climbing towards the crest of Suikerbossie.L L A N D U D N O S E A S I D E TOW N 093 Llandudno The tiny and exclusive suburb of Llandudno is the custodian of one of the peninsula’s most beautiful beaches. round and graceful in shape. To get there. so you might have to park in one of the residential streets. The promontory on your far left is Logie Rock and chances are that there will be a knot of young people congregated at the Surf & Lifesaving Clubhouse. though. but coarse to the touch.
0094 KEY 46 Blouberg beach walk Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
0095 pull quote .
key 47.1). It provides a safe way to explore some of Cape Town’s poorest neighbourhoods in order to experience a way of life you’d never have imagined from behind the comfort of your hotel cup of filter coffee.2). southern suburbs such as Plumstead. the townships of Khayelitsha. But the city centre is staffed by people who live all over the greater metropole – northern suburbs like Durbanville and Bellville.3). many have wanted to experience life outside of the glamorous bubble of beaches and cocktails. the neighbourhoods of the Cape Flats such as Athlone and Mitchells Plain. it can still feel like you’re gawking at the poor. The problem is that many of these tours can be uncomfortably voyeuristic. trapped by their circumstances. key 47. No matter how good the intentions of the operators are. Since foreign tourists started flocking here in great numbers after 1994. Andulela Experience tours are always lead by a guide who has lived in one of the communities you will visit. key 47. This is where township tourism comes in. or the benefits the influx of foreign tourists might bring to a part of the community you visit.096 TOWNSHIP TOURISM EXPERIEN CE KEY 47 Township tour Most of this book concentrates on a small part of Cape Town. Guguletu and Langa. from the safety of your air-conditioned coach. The ins and outs of township life will be explained. . from how to buy beer in an informal shebeen (bar) to how to behave around a sangoma Above: The party livens up in a shebeen in Imizamo Yethu (back map. Opposite: Vicky Ntozini walks with a guest near her B & B in Khayelitsha (back map. Several township tour operators offer fully integrated approaches and specially designed trips to overcome these problems. Below: Sampling the local brew in Langa (back map.
such as a visit to Robben Island.co. meet some locals and walk around to see the disparity that exists. Andulela Experience on 021 790 2592 and www. It is named after the respected chief Langalibalele.com Facts: Street names in Guguletu all start with the abbreviation NY. you might think that a township simply consists of shacks. privately built homes bordered by lean-to shacks made of corrugated metal sheets. Imizamo Yethu. If you were merely to drive past the townships from the airport to your hotel.tourcapers. Vicky’s B & B is on many tours’ itinerary. is also a very popular destination. Hout Bay’s township. Detail: Cape Capers on 021 448 3117 and www. Madosini (Manquina) is one of Nelson Mandela’s favourite musicians. which is generally one of the more relaxed ways to engage with people from across the cultural chasm. an African cooking tour and one investigating the roots of Cape Town’s rich jazz heritage. as is a visit to Golden Flowers’ workshop. A tour lead by Cape Capers tours starts off in Langa. It stands for Native Yard. . Half-day township tours can often be done in conjunction with another relevant activity. Their speciality tours cater to tourists with specific interests – they have a gospel tour. This tour takes people to visit the cultural centre. Langa is home to one of South Africa’s greatest living folk singers. which takes you right into the living room of local legends like Mac McKenzie. But houses built in a township can vary from government housing to big. where discarded cold drink tins are put to good use by turning them into tin flowers. who was confined to a farm here after being released from imprisonment on Robben Island.za. Take a night-time shebeen tour. the oldest township in Cape Town.’ (traditional doctor). In Khayelitsha (South Africa’s second largest township after Soweto).andulela. Madosini.097 ‘The ins and outs of township life will be explained.
but the well laid-out path will ensure that you don’t get lost.za. There is a fully catered and portered three-day hike package during which you experience city history. Capetonians are privileged.za for more climbing options. They are not only painstakingly accurate. enjoy the sunset from the mountaintop and then take the cable car back down. is the best option. Below: Cecelia Forest (back map.hikecapetown. Above: Table Mountain has many trails of varying difficulty (front map. If you want more than just a quick day-hike. then the main route up Platteklip Gorge. This route gets steep. . with Table Mountain and the rest of the peninsula’s mountain ranges providing hiking just about everywhere. and you are really spoilt for choice.1). A good idea is to walk up via Platteklip Gorge. key 48. the big cleft you can see in the mountain to the left of the cable car station. Essential extra reading is Mike Lundy’s regularly updated Best Walks in the Cape Peninsula. the Table Mountain National Park now offers multiple-day hikes.098 TABLE MOUNTAIN HIKIN G KEY 48 Hiking Table Mountain There cannot be many other cities in the world with such a giant hiking paradise situated right in their backyard. These Hoerikwaggo Trails vary in length and level of luxury. a visit to Robben Island.2). There are also no Western Cape maps better than those of Peter Slingsby. and the Cederberg near Clanwilliam.co. a cable-car trip up Table Mountain and a hike across the top and down into Kirstenbosch gardens. If you have never climbed Table Mountain and you have limited time.climbing. Hoerikwaggo Trails on 021 465 8515. but also loaded with extra information which will bring the landmarks around you to life. key 48. Visit www.co. Detail: www. Slingsby’s Table Mountain Map is available at book shops and Cape Union Mart outlets. Add to that the proximity of the various Cape fold mountains beyond Paarl and Franschhoek.
which is on Signal Hill Road. Bantry Bay and Sea Point come into view. This sounds hazardous. but anyone of reasonable fitness can do it. a tree unique to the peninsula mountains. The silver-leafed trees on the slope are indeed Silver Trees. the road splits in two. There is very little climbing involved and if you don’t want to scramble over a single rock. Yes. The benches run out soon after this. this is a hike with benches along the way! Drive or take a taxi up to the Lion’s Head parking lot. nestled along the sparkling blue coastline. The path sets out here. because here you can look down all sides of the mountain. If the weather changes for the worse. It’s one of the best communal nature experiences you can have in the Cape. KEY 49 Above: Walking even just part of the trail up Lion’s Head will make you feel a whole lot better about life (front map. Head around the northern slope of the mountain and the suburbs of Clifton. key 49). the view is spectacular in every direction – it’s actually a better viewing point than Table Mountain itself. at a very gentle angle. Hundreds of people climb Lion’s Head every month to see the full moon rising. As you round the first bend. turn back immediately. while Table Mountain restricts you to two sides at best. then you must hike up Lion’s Head. The longer route is easier and runs up an easy to navigate ridge. As you reach the bottom of the cliff. The short cut goes up the cliff face with the aid of metal rungs and ladders. Never head out when it is misty. you can always turn around and relax on a nearby bench. It might seem intimidating from where you’re standing now. it’s the Table Mountain National Park’s emergency number. . Save 0861 106 417 in your mobile phone. but it is not very high and is easy and safe to use. be sure to pack a warm top and a torch for the trip down. as the road turns back towards the city bowl side of the mountain. Tips: Never walk alone and always tell someone else where you’re heading. If you’re doing the full moon hike. Camps Bay will be below you. but there are still plenty of large rocks to rest on. From the top.L I O N ’ S H E A D E A SY WA L K 099 Walk up Lion’s Head If you only have time for one hike.
book a table inside so you can be cosy near the fireplace.100 RHODES MEMORIAL BREAKFAST WI T H A V I E W KEY 50 Breakfast at Rhodes Memorial Few locals will know where the Cape Town farm of Welgelegen is. sit outside. one for each year of Rhodes’s life. If you’re there midmorning. The restaurant has excellent food and is very popular over weekends. but ask where Rhodes Memorial (or just Rhodes Mem) is and most will be able to point it out. you don’t look at Table Mountain. Today it is part of Table Mountain National Park. is a pleasant enough place to sit and read a book. and in winter. Bookings: 021 689 9151. Above: The view over Cape Town from the top of Rhodes Memorial (back map. In the distance are the Stellenbosch and Hottentots Holland Mountains. one feels) was built in 1912 after a design by Sirs Herbert Baker and Francis Macey. It is just far enough out of the city bowl to offer a refreshingly different vista. Observatory and Athlone. . You can see it from the suburbs of Mowbray. Rosebank. Rondebosch. The over-the-top memorial (just a few too many bronze lions. have scones and tea and let the kids explore the memorial and surrounding parklands. In summer. Cecil John Rhodes bought the farm of Welgelegen in 1891 and left it to the citizens of South Africa when he died just over a decade later. Pinelands. but down onto the suburbs of Cape Town. or smooch one’s lover – many UCT students hang out here – the real attraction is the Rhodes Memorial Restaurant. While the 49 memorial steps. key 50). just above the University of Cape Town in amongst a clump of large pine trees on the back slopes of Devil’s Peak. Here. You’ll see the N2 highway making its way past the two disused cooling towers towards the airport and beyond.
another on top of Lion’s Head and another on Signal Hill itself. Once better safety measures had been installed. key 51).S I G NA L H I L L V I E W P O I N T 101 Signal Hill The Dutch had three lookout posts in the 17th and 18th centuries: one at the top of Kloof Nek. farmers could be alerted when there was a new ship in the harbour – the flags would even tell them which nationality it was – and they would pack their wagons with produce to sell to the crews. But because the view is also beautiful at night. You can now access the site until 1 am and there is 24-hour security.5 million visitors every year. From there they were passed on in similar fashion via Tygerberg all the way to the farms out at Paarl. Sunsets from Signal Hill are special occasions. so it’s often full and you might have to head back down the road to find a place to pull over. ‘It’s one of the places Cape Town locals are fiercely proud of – everyone feels as if they own a part of it. From the city bowl it’s a five minute drive by car to reach the parking lot. toilets and security (front map. using gunshots and flags. KEY 51 Above and next pages: Signal Hill has a small parking lot. From Signal Hill. there have been safety issues at Signal Hill. and for a while the access path was closed at 9 pm. It’s not a very big parking lot. In the past. picnic tables. they sent out messages that could be seen or heard at Salt River. Signal Hill is one of the most popular places from which to view the city – it is estimated to have 1.’ . Today. Many people come here to picnic because it is so accessible. Signall Hill was re-opened for late-night drives. This way. when Cape Town’s lights create a spectacle. It’s one of the places Cape Town locals are fiercely proud of – everyone feels as if they own a part of it. there was pressure to open it again.
0102 KEY 51 Signal Hill Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
0103 pull quote .
Bloubergstrand.104 SUNSET THE BEST PL ACES KEY 52 Sundowners at the Blue Peter There are many fine places to have a sundowner around the peninsula. spilling out onto a large grass embankment. clear all the way to the horizon – you might be lucky enough to witness the fabled green flash. but it sure has enough of a view. . Chances are you’ll discover a few of your own favourite sundowner spots while you’re here. so you run no risk of being arrested for drinking in public. Detail: The Blue Peter Hotel is in Popham Street. we’ve seen it … Above: The lawn outside the Blue Peter (back map. Keep an eye on the sun as it sinks. 021 554 1956. views of Table Mountain are picture-perfect and even Robben Island seems close to shore on a clear day. During peak holiday times. The bistro and bar area is on the lower deck. From here. the Leopard Room Bar’s balcony at the Twelve Apostles Hotel is the place you want to be. Children roll around on the soft grass. The Blue Peter is a hotel. If you’d like to sit with a cocktail in hand. You just need somewhere with a fine view out west – maybe your hotel balcony. but you can enjoy its location without having to spend the night. A bench next to Camps Bay Drive is perfect. but you can’t really go wrong with the Blue Peter at Blouberg. hundreds of people converge on this patch of lawn to enjoy the sunset with a drink in hand and something to munch on. and easy to get to. but it will be quieter. groups of friends laugh and chat and the whole atmosphere builds up to a festive crescendo as the sun makes its leisurely way to the horizon. A simple stroll along the Sea Point Promenade might lack elevation. During the right atmospheric and weather conditions – you need clean air. key 52) is part of the establishment. Noordhoek Beach between Noordhoek and Kommetjie is far to drive for a sunset. Does it really exist? Yes.
The few places at which you can stop are also on the sea’s side and too dangerous to access if you’re coming from the other direction. There are 114 curves along its nine-kilometre length and several viewpoints and places to picnic. It is best to drive it from south to north as you will then be driving on the side closest to the ocean. There had been fatal accidents before.chapmanspeakdrive. KEY 53 Above: Chapman’s Peak Drive (back map.co. but after a rock fall in 1999 killed a motorist. De Waal Drive.CHAPMAN’S PEAK SCENIC DRIVE 105 Chapman’s Peak Chapman’s Peak Drive is without doubt the most famous of the peninsula’s scenic drives. Dial 021 791 8222 or visit www.za to see if the drive is open. key 53) is carved into the rock-face. It’s getting on in years. too – it was constructed between 1915 and 1922. In peak season. With the cliff rising up on the one side. carved out of the side of the mountain in the softer shale between the granite below and the sandstone higher up. With the road faced with permanent closure. which cuts across the lower slopes of Devil’s Peak between the city bowl and Mowbray. the road was closed in January 2000. has his name honoured in another great road. Detail: Chapman’s Peak is closed during heavy rainfall. including ‘roofs’ over parts of the road and extensive rock traps and stabilisation set up to avoid any future mishaps. more than 5 000 vehicles travel along this stretch of road per day. the first administrator of the Cape Province named Frederick de Waal. It’s an amazing feat of road engineering. The road was reopened in December 2003 and became a toll road (although cyclists don’t have to cough up) to help pay for the reconstruction. Chapman’s Peak is always at risk of rock falls. The man behind it. of which there are several. . concerned residents and tourism stakeholders rallied to find funding and massive reconstruction followed.
then a journey to Robben Island is compulsory. it was not. When Mandela was finally released from prison in 1990. Walter Sisulu and Jacob Zuma. when it was a high security prison. also known as Harry. He was then transferred to the notorious Pollsmoor Prison near Constantia. from Robben Island. The most famous of its past prisoners is Nelson Mandela. It is both symbolic of the resolve of those who fought against apartheid and of the spirit of forgiveness which characterised the early years of the fledgling South African democracy. leaving only ordinary prisoners behind). but other prominent figures include Govan Mbeki. One of the earliest people imprisoned here for political reasons was Autshumao. and later more famously the apartheid government. more than 3 000 male prisoners passed through its gates (there were never any women held here). Today. Between 1961 and 1991. The last prisoners left the island in 1996 and it became a museum the following year. this UNESCO World Heritage Site occupies a special place in the minds of South Africans. however. After 18 years. leader of a group of Khoi who lived next to the sea when Jan van Riebeeck first settled at the Cape. the entrance to the prison (inset below) and a stark inner court of the prison on Robben Island (back map. . He was incarcarated in 1658 and over the following centuries others would follow.106 ROBBEN ISL AND HERITAGE KEY 54 Robben Island If you are a curious traveller who wants to learn more about the people of the country you’re visiting. people considered threats to the Dutch and English colonial occupiers. Photos: The interior of Nelson Mandela’s cell (above). key 54). he left the island prison in 1982 (around this time most of the political prisoners were moved off the island.
from where he walked free in 1990. It suffers under enough feet as it is: there are penguins. He died here in exile in 1754. Detail: Ferries (inset below) depart at 9 am. on the eastern side of the island. otherwise the whole trip might be spoiled. You are advised to book in advance. Pack a warm item of windproof clothing for the ferry ride across the bay and. and 3 pm. Bookings on 021 413 4200 and more info on www. 11 am. take preventative tablets. if you get seasick. you will be escorted by a local guide. All the guides are ex-prisoners and thus have an intimate knowledge of the prison and surrounds. the Prince of Madura. especially during peak season. 1 pm. The kramat is a holy site for the Muslims and it commemorates Sayed Adurohman Moturu. inclusive of travel time and time spent on the island. the fortifications built on the island during World War II and the Moturu Kramat.za . you cannot get out at any point on the circular bus-drive. Other places of interest include the lighthouse constructed in 1863.’ Eventually he was moved to Victor Verster Prison (Paarl). This is to minimise the impact on the delicate environment. the limestone quarry where they worked and then you will explore the rest of the island on a 45-minute bus drive. rabbits and buck all over the island.robben-island.org. Trips to the island depart by modern ferry from near the Clock Tower at the V&A Waterfront and last about three and a half hours. You will visit the high-security prison where Mandela and other struggle heroes were locked up.107 ‘The most famous of its past prisoners is Nelson Mandela. Unfortunately. Once you have arrived at the small harbour at Murray’s Bay. as enormous numbers of people visit the island.
key 55) offer rustic seaside scenes (above). a bronze statue given to the town by its sculptor. which lies just behind the Sentinel as seen from the Leopard. Coming from Constantia Nek. opposite page). Princess will take you straight to the harbour. The Leopard is between the road and the sea at the first bend near Chapman’s Peak Hotel. follow Main Road until you see Princess Street on your right. when the local Round Table decided to auction off ‘cabinet’ positions as a fundraiser. From this viewpoint. the bay lies in front of you with the Sentinel rising up behind the harbour. simply drive straight through the main business area via Victoria Avenue and then turn right when the road meets the sea. The postcard image of Hout Bay is often taken from the Leopard.108 HOUT BAY SEASIDE TOWN KEY 55 Hout Bay Although part of the Cape Peninsula. the self-appointed Consulate-General is André Jacobs (seen holding a ‘passport’ at inset left). aka Seal Island. . Besides the World of Birds (key 61). Mariner’s Wharf. it soon becomes Chapman’s Peak Drive. the focal point of the town is the harbour complex. Today. A couple of boats run trips out of the harbour to Duiker Island. Hout Bay has always done its own thing. The whole concept proved to be a marketing gimmick that worked its magic via bumper stickers and even a fake ‘passport’. Photos: Hout Bay (back map. The idea of proclaiming the area as the Republic of Hout Bay came about in 1987. If you are coming from the Camps Bay side. Duiker Island is home to 5 000 Cape fur seals and the trip is a popular weekend activity – though boats do run throughout the week. Ivan Mitford-Barberton. above right) and family outings like a a boat trip to Seal Island (inset. If you follow Main Road all the way through town towards the south. top-notch sit down restaurants as well as quality fish and chips take-aways (such as Fish on the Rocks.
You can sit and eat at their wooden tables outside or carry your little parcel of salty delight over to the rocks.’ Hout Bay is a fishing town and most of the peninsula’s crayfishing fleet is based here. now lovingly restored. If you continue past the entrance to Mariner’s Wharf. but the part in the back is from a century earlier. From picking the grapes to making and bottling the wine. find the small Ambeloui Wine Cellar (4075 Valley Road) which makes Cap Classique sparkling wine and nothing else. where a few old cannons lie. Kitima (140 Main Road). Chapman’s Peak Hotel on 021 790 1036. Another nearby joint. Try the Seafood Bistro or the Wharfside Grill. following Harbour Road to its very end. being the only H-plan layout house of its period left. This means that the fish in the restaurants at Mariner’s Wharf is as fresh as it gets or you can buy straight off the boat and cook the fish at home. Detail: Hout Bay Museum on 021 790 3270. The Hout Bay Seafood Festival & Snoek Derby is one of the town’s big calendar events. is home to a Thai restaurant. If you are a fan of sparkling wine. Not quite in the mood for fish and chips? The old Kronendal house. A highlight of this event (in August) is the derby during which fishermen set out into the bay to see who can catch the biggest snoek on the day. This is quite a landmark on the fish-and-chips scene (also see key 33) and is a good excuse for many Capetonians to visit Hout Bay. Snoekies. The final product is highly sought after as the quantities are always limited. is as renowned. Kitima on 021 790 8004. you’ll reach Fish on the Rocks.109 ‘Most of the peninsula’s crayfishing fleet is based here. . The front façade dates from 1800. Ambeloui Wine Cellar on 082 441 6039. Kronendal is one of the Cape’s architectural treasures. everything is done on the farm.
0110 KEY 55 Hout Bay Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
0111 pull quote .
co. at the end of it all. ten days around Easter. Above: Everyone having a good time at Ratanga Junction? Seems like it! (back map. And that’s why someone had the bright idea of building Ratanga Junction. you will not be at ‘the frontiers of oblivion’. hitch a ride on the Temperance Flyer train between Diamond Devil and Monkey Falls or bump to their heart’s content on the Rats and Cats Bumper Cars. Visible from the N1 highway next to the enormous Canal Walk shopping centre. This suspended looping coaster races around a 779-metre track at almost 100 km/h while your feet dangle free. but still next to the Canal Walk shopping centre. on Crocodile Gorge you race along a man-made river. roughly.112 FOR KIDS RIDES AND ROLLERCOASTE R S KEY 56 Ratanga Junction There will be the calm kids who get their kicks at the Scratch Patch (see key 97) and then there will be those who need to be strapped in and hurtling along the track of a rollercoaster in order to really be having the time of their lives. Be sure to tie your laces properly. key 56) Detail: The rides are only open during Western Cape school holidays. this theme park has rides ranging from family-oriented to adrenaline-heavy stuff. late June to mid-July and another ten days towards the end of September. Small children can hop onto a convoy of trucks through Elephant Rock. The Bushwhacker is a gentle rollercoaster. from December to mid-January. and the whole family can try out their Dirty Harry credentials with harmless paint-gun target shooting. but what will truly get your adrenaline going is the ride Ratanga Junction is famous for: the Cobra. which change every now and then but are. The Simulator promises to take you to ‘the frontiers of oblivion’.ratanga.za . 0861 200 300 and www. otherwise it’s cheers to those new Nikes! Sadly. which will make you wonder how secure that burger in your stomach is.
Gary’s Surf School on 021 788 9839 and www. The Gat (Llandudno).za. you’ve got to know what you’re doing with many of the Cape’s waves. around the corner from Hout Bay. Boneyards. Detail: www. is the Cape’s most famous spot. but is only for big-wave surfers because the waves can be anything between 5 and 20 metres! KEY 57 Photos: Early morning surfers at Muizenberg (above) and loyal followers of the waves outside The Big Blue surf shop (next pages) in Muizenberg (back map. As you can judge by the names.com.kahunasurf.garysurf. standing up being the first big moment. key 57). with many of the best waves such as Long Beach. Outer Kom and The Boiler to be found there.S U R F I N G E N J OY T H E O C E A N 113 Surfing From humble beginnings. Sport & Surf in Long Street on 021 426 4550. Dunes (far along Noordhoek beach) and Crayfish Factory (between Kommetjie and Scarborough).co. Experienced surfers have many spots to choose from around the peninsula. situated off the Sentinel. If you sign up for a surfing lesson with Gary Kleynhans in Muizenberg. Dungeons. Kommetjie is a surfer’s haven. The best waves are closely guarded secrets. but here are some with a good reputation when the weather and conditions are right: Glen Beach (Camps Bay). perfect for intermediate surfers. which is a rolling left. making it the oldest one in the country. .wavescape. Kahuna Surfing Academy on 021 783 4965 and www. Gary’s Surf School has been around since 1989. and then graduate to short-boards as their skills and confidence levels grow. surfing has become a favourite pastime of thousands of South Africans who live by the coast – and those exiled Joburgers who risk getting their boards bashed by luggage handlers whenever they fly down for a holiday.co. you’ll see other novices just like you – it’s not intimidating at all.za is a good site for all South African surfing. Beginners of all ages start out on longboards to learn the basics. Lifestyle Surf Shop in Muizenberg on 021 788 8218. The consistent waves at Muizenberg make it the perfect place to learn.
0114 KEY 57 Surfing Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
0115 pull quote .
but if you are Elton John you will not want to be seen in anything but a 1958 Rolls Royce Silvercloud II. Best Beetle on 021 981 4113 and www. Detail: Motor Classic Rentals on 021 461 7368 and www.za.bestbeetle. so if you’re one of them you’ll be looking for something with a little more character.co. They do day-trips around the peninsula and the winelands.sidecars.co. Between Best Beetle and Fun Car you will definitely find a ‘Volksie’ to suit your tastes.116 CRUISE IN ST YLE KEY 58 Cruise around in a classic Yes.za . Motor Classic also organises three six-day rallies every year. They also have motorbikes and off-road vehicles. It is not cheap: in fact.motorclassic. it’s very expensive. Cape Sidecar Adventures offer tours in vintage World War II 750cc sidecar motorbikes.3 Roadster like this from Motor Classic Rentals. If you are a true enthusiast of all things classic and vintage. you can hire a Nissan Tiida at the airport and cruise out to Hermanus or up the West Coast in perfect peace of mind. with maybe one or two longer trips along the way. Above: You can hire a 1970 Jaguar E Type 4. coolest cars to rent during your stay here. Fun Car on 073 442 4273 and www. you can always just chill in the sidecar and let someone else drive for you. They’re ideal if you’re only going to potter around the peninsula. But people who love cars from another era will tell you that peace of mind is boring. Motor Classic Rentals have everything from an ancient 1916 Crossley 8 J Tourer to a modern classic like the zippy Jaguar XK8 on their books.co. VW Beetles are everywhere in Cape Town and they’re some of the cheapest. Cape Sidecar Adventures on 021 434 9855 and www.za.funcar. don’t miss the two-day long Classic Car and Bike Show during the last weekend of January in Diep River. key 58).za.co. If you don’t have a motorbike licence. which take you through some of the Cape’s most scenic areas and along its famous roads such as Chapman’s Peak Drive. and longer trips up the West Coast and into the Overberg. which are based at 1 Waterloo Road in the City Bowl (front map.
KEY 59 Above: An African penguin at Boulders Beach (back map. Bird Island in Algoa Bay. so please don’t make any attempt to touch them. and their new choice of home was all the more surprising considering that Simon’s Town was already extensively developed by that time. African penguins are only found off the South African and Namibian coastlines.6 kg and their diet includes sardines. Detail: www. It was however a gift from above for the tourism industry in the area. Adult birds can weigh up to 3.za . In 1985 two breeding pairs suddenly decided to make Boulders Beach outside Simon’s Town their home. before hunting and egg collecting decimated their numbers. pilchards and squid.co. key 59). More birds soon joined them. Support the South African Foundation for the Conservation of Coastal Birds (SANCCOB) at www. access to the penguins is controlled and you can view them from a raised walkway. granite boulder-strewn beach. On Dassen Island.org. north of Robben Island off the West Coast. is the easternmost colony. Their breeding colonies are usually on the small islands off the coasts of these two countries.5 million birds that once called the island home. Today there are about 3 000 birds on the beach.sanccob. keep in mind that they can draw blood with an almighty peck. Boulders Beach is now part of the Table Mountain National Park. This is nothing compared to the estimated 1. at Port Elizabeth. they are mostly threatened by oil pollution and diminishing food resources. one of only three mainland based colonies – the other two being near Hermanus and at Betty’s Bay. 48 000 African penguins congregate. Today.za and 021 786 2329. making their nests in the vegetation next to the stunning.sanparks.A F R I CA N P E N G U I N S B O U L D E R S B E AC H 117 African penguins at Boulders Until recently known as Jackass penguins (because of the braying sounds they make). There is no record of African penguins breeding here previously. However cute they look.
branch off to the left – this is the start of Voortrekker Road. where there isn’t much to see apart from an enormous cemetery. To reach it.118 VOOR TREKKER ROAD THE EVERYDAY KEY 60 Voortrekker Road We are pretty sure there are no other tour guides advising you to cruise down Voortrekker Road. who explored the South African interior. Vasco. but we can’t think of a strip which better showcases Cape Town at its most everyday. Something few locals will be able to tell you is that Parow was named after a German sea captain whose ship was wrecked in Table Bay in 1865 and who subsequently settled here. Cross over the railway tracks and the Liesbeek River and you’ll have entered the industrial suburbs of Ndabeni and Maitland. Even fewer will know that Elsies River derives its name from a farmer. you can see Voortrekker Road clearly as the big. At the Salt River circle. key 60) offers a glimpse of the less-travelled working class side of Cape Town. while the rest of Voortrekker Road (back map. ‘Voortrekkers’ was the Afrikaans name given to the early pioneers. which becomes Newmarket Street and then Albert Road. long before the frantic N1 highway was constructed. as it’s really long and not all that safe throughout its length. Photos: Grills fit for every braai imaginable are for sale at the Braaivleis Sentrum (above). The residential suburbs of Goodwood. The best way to explore Voortrekker Road is by car. drive out from the city centre via Strand Street. . who farmed here in the 1690s. Standing at the lower cable car station under Table Mountain. or trekkers. straight road to the right of the N1. Elsie van Suurwaarde. Ruyterwacht and Parow are strictly working class no-nonsense areas. This road used to be the main route out of the city to the north.
Our favourite spot for a meal on Voortrekker Road is the humble Estelle’s Bistro (156 Voortrekker Road). Detail: Braaivleis Sentrum on 021 948 0458. Voortrekker Road is a good place to hunt for a bargain. liquor stores and car dealerships. See www. modern behemoth which will be the envy of your neighbour. The cheapest item on the menu is called ‘The Poor Man’s Friend’ and consists of a slice of toast with jam – who can fault such an establishment? Voortrekker Road ceases to be (in name only – you can continue onwards to Kuils River and eventually Stellenbosch) not far past the Braaivleis Sentrum. You can buy a regular grill for a day’s picnicking (see key 101 for great braai spots) or an expensive. Bellville. Entertainment: If you’re a wrestling fan. the Braaivleis Sentrum. Proprietor John Brown opened the business in 1976. calamari. even if that neighbour happens to be George Foreman.awfwrestle.119 ‘We can’t think of a strip which better showcases Cape Town at its most everyday. Estelle’s Bistro on 021 592 7517. if you’re planning to stay for several months and want to buy a cheap second-hand car.’ Parow and the next suburb. offer a wide array of shops and businesses – not one of them is quaint or hip. signage shops. Here. mother-and-daughter team Estelle and Joh-Nelle Maria make delicious soccer-themed breakfasts (choose between Arsenal and Kaizer Chiefs). It specialises in every conceivable gadget you could ever need in order to braai your perfect cut of meat. so you can either turn around and drive back along the same route to the city or take one of the escape routes to the N1 for a speedier return. It’s all wholesale butcheries. the Africa Wrestling Alliance (AWA) hosts events at the Parow Civic Centre (also known as the House of Pain) every now and then. In fact. gatsbys stuffed with viennas or Russians.com . is situated at 227 Voortrekker Road. The city’s oldest braai (barbeque) accessory store. and chicken tikka. masala steak.
raccoons and more. reptiles.30 am and 4. you might feel that there’s nothing but feathered. birds of prey and the cormorants happen between 11. key 61) belongs to the finely feathered of the domestic. penguins. The cheeky primates – originally from South America – have a penchant for anything which they can pilfer from your person or pockets. Sure. lovebirds and conures in your ears. porcupines. with the initial racket of parakeets. Here you can touch and hold members of the playful troop of resident squirrel monkeys. Try to be there by 11 am though. While the entire World of Birds is the perfect place for kids. but there are also monkeys. . and multicoloured mayhem in store for you. such as the brightly coloured Photos: The squirrel monkeys (above) run the show in the Monkey Jungle. exotic and indigenous kind.15 pm. hanging around with the squirrel monkeys is an experience they will never forget. small buck. jewellery and hairclips before you enter the enclosure. A visit to the Monkey Jungle is essential.120 WORLD OF BIRDS HOUT BAY KEY 61 The World of Birds The World of Birds is about much more than just birds. otherwise the sheer diversity of its inhabitants will be missed. In total. The Monkey Jungle is only open between 11. so make sure you secure all your small change. but the rest of the World of Birds (back map.30 pm. There’s no need to be there first thing in the morning.30 am and 1 pm and again from 2 pm to 3. A visit to the World of Birds cannot be rushed. Much of the World of Birds is immediately impressive. so it’s a great excursion for a lazy day. There is always a World of Birds volunteer present to ensure that everything remains under control. because feeding times for some of the top attractions such as pelicans. over 3 000 individuals and upwards of 400 different species are housed here.
’ parakeets. Walter Mangold and his team have cared for about 200 injured or distressed birds for every month of the park’s existence.121 ‘Over 3 000 individuals and upwards of 400 different species are housed here. The World of Birds is the largest bird park in Africa and provides an invaluable service in the protection and breeding of certain endangered species. the pet trade and unfortunate road accidents. though.org. especially if you’re an amateur photographer. the more memorable your day will become. such as the bald ibis. but also a haven for species trapped in the crossfire of human encroachment. The World of Birds is on the left some distance down Valley Road. Reliant entirely on donations for its continued existence. One of our favourite sights is the diminutive hedgehog tenrec.worldofbirds. The institution also cares for injured and sick animals and birds. a native from Madagascar and cuter than you can possibly imagine with its delicate features. the luminous pink presence of the scarlet ibises and the stately strut of the large blue cranes. . World of Birds founder. and provides them with a home if they cannot be reintroduced back into the wild. Detail: Open every day of the year from 9 am to 5 pm. crowned cranes and saddle-billed storks. 021 790 2730 and www.za Directions: Follow signs from Main Road or Victoria Road in Hout Bay. which is difficult to see elsewhere in South Africa. The more patient you are. Fans of the popular TV show Meerkat Manor will be overjoyed to hear that there are also some meerkats that can be ogled from close by as they dig around or simply sit and sun their satisfied bellies (they are a tad bulkier than their wild cousins). There is a small cafeteria on the premises (but you are welcome to bring your own picnic basket) and a shop that sells T-shirts and other gifts. the World of Birds is not only a brilliant day of entertainment for the casual tourist.
122 KALK BAY SEASIDE TOWN KEY 62 Kalk Bay Kalk Bay is arguably the top tourist destination on the eastern side of the peninsula for the sheer variety of dining and shopping options available within a very short. the railway had reached the area and the population mix changed again as some people started living out here and commuting to work in the city centre of Cape Town. In the same genre of stall-the-morning is the Lino Café (Colyn Road). galleries. The general concensus usually is that staying put might in fact be the best idea of all. key 62). boutiques and book shops (see key 103). At the harbour. You can still take the train here – the station lies next to the sea – and while fishing is no longer the be-all and end-all of the village. It’s a hangout for many locals who plan the next move from here. The Olympia Café & Deli (134 Main Road) is renowned both for its food and coffee. it still plays a strong role. . Kalky’s is another highlight. antique shops. which also has art exhibitions and sells interesting knitwear in addition to ace espresso and juices. Despite its unglamorous name. The town has a colourful history. then it was home to a crew of shipwrecked Filipinos whose descendants still live here and who started the town’s fishing industry. The takeaway fish menu is huge and Photos: You can take the train from Cape Town station all the way to Kalk Bay (back map. which refers to the lime (‘kalk’ in Afrikaans) once produced here by burning sea shells in kilns. the place is just so quaint that you can’t help but fall in love with it. The Main Road is cluttered with eateries. walkable distance. It once was an important whaling centre. so park the car and take a stroll. opposite page) and eateries. By 1883. where you can spend the day exploring the harbour and the several antique shops (such as The Railway House Furniture Shop.
artvark. yellowtail.’ includes snoek. Harbour House Restaurant on 021 788 4133. copper or silver – they make excellent. and then skilled hands gut and ‘vlek’ the fish. Polana on 021 788 7162. The Brass Bell is a long-time favourite (Main Road). Olympia Café & Deli on 021 788 6396. so be prepared to queue on weekends and public holidays. The Brass Bell on 021 788 5455. You can have your linefish grilled or pickled and you can buy red roman or snoek heads. there’s Harbour House Restaurant (in the harbour). and calamari. Many artists and musicians call the town home. unique gifts. Detail: www. Chances are there will be a seal or two in the bay and people also fish from the harbour wall. hang around until a catch comes in to see how the activity suddenly heightens. Kalk Bay is still a working harbour and the ideal place to purchase fresh fish. Cape salmon.org.123 ‘The place is just so quaint that you can’t help but fall in love with it.com. Even if you’re not buying. Artvark (48 Main Road) sells unusual cutlery made of brass. creating the most incredibly delicate jewellery in the shape of natural seeds.nicbladen. grilled crayfish. so walk over for a chat and make a polite enquiry as to how the biting is going. Across the road in the Kalk Bay Sculpture Studio (11 Windsor Street) Nic Bladen works with silver and bronze. Pop in at Katherine Glenday’s The Forge porcelain studio at 12 Windsor Street. For something a little more formal. com. Nic Bladen on www.katherineglenday. pods and flowers. Katherine Glenday on www. often with the help of some colourful language. and Polana Restaurant (also in the harbour) specialises in Portuguese food.org . Cape to Cuba on 021 788 1566. It’s a famous fish-and-chips place (also see key 33). kob. Fish are offloaded.kalkbay. if you’re missing Havana there’s Cape to Cuba (Main Road). Artvark on www.
0124 KEY 62 Kalk Bay Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
0125 pull quote .
126 GOLF SPORT KEY 63 Golf Within nine days of arriving at the Cape to head up the British forces. Detail: Mowbray Golf Club on 021 685 3018. This nine-hole links course overlooks Windmill Beach and the tiny cove of Froggy Pond and during whale season it’s entirely possible to be distracted by a breaching southern right whale just as you line up your putt. Gatvol (fed up) players who lived in the area then formed the Mowbray Golf Club in 1910. Royal Cape Golf Club on 021 761 6551. Westlake Golf Club on 021 788 2020. Lt General Henry Torrens had his mind on fun and games and set up a meeting towards establishing what would eventually become the Royal Cape Golf Club (1885). Above: An early-morning round at the Milnerton Golf Club (see back map. Today. the most scenic place to swing a club must be the small Simon’s Town course. Milnerton Golf Club on 021 552 1047. is the Atlantic Beach Golf Club. Simon’s Town Country Club on 021 786 1233. just ten minutes from the city centre along the R27 which curves around Table Bay. which is rated as one of the best in the country. your first tee should be at the Milnerton Golf Club. If you want to play a round of golf with Table Mountain as backdrop. Atlantic Beach Golf Club on 021 553 2223. key 63). The course was first laid out at the Wynberg Military Camp (1886). Clovelly Golf Club on 021 784 2100. Further along the same road. play continued at the common for a few years. then the Rondebosch Common (1891) and eventually Ottery (1906) where the illustrious RCGC is still based today. beyond the suburbs of Blouberg and Table View. Prime golf courses a little further afield are the Stellenbosch Golf Club and Arabella at Kleinmond between Betty’s Bay and Hermanus. Rondebosch Golf Club on 021 689 4176. the fourth doubled up as municipal tip and people had free reign to graze their cattle and ride their horses on the course. even though the first hole played host to rugby games on Saturdays. . Despite the club’s move.
co. en route to its new owners in New Zealand. these take place on weekdays. which serves great burgers. Both Sleepy Hollow and the Dunes. In addition to the fresh air. If you are staying for a long period of time and want to take riding lessons. A number of residents own horses and there are also riding schools in the area.co. Check out the worm farm where the food waste from the restaurants gets turned into compost by the worms – nifty! KEY 64 Above: Riding on the beach at Noordhoek (back map. The town got its name in 1743 as it was the northern corner (Noordhoek) of a larger farm called Slangkop. the wreck of the Kakapo is a highlight on the trips.co.za. some of that agrarian charm remains. Noordhoek has become the peninsula’s postcard setting for horse riding on the beach. The Dunes on 021 789 1723 and www. based close to the beach.H O R S E R I D I N G AT N O O R D H O E K 127 Horse riding at Noordhoek Through design or default. sleepyhollowhorseriding. grew crops to sell to the ships which had started to drop anchor in Simon’s Town. breakfasts and chocolate brownies.noordhoekvillage. offer rides that start out from the Noordhoek beach side and head out towards the south. The Foodbarn and Café Roux. The Dunes has 40 resident thoroughbred racehorses in its stables. Farmers here. like those further down the peninsula at Imhoff ’s Gift (see key 95).horserides. with the crew literally just walking ashore – it was a brand-new ship too. key 64) with Kommetjie in the distant background. Sleepy Hollow also offers pony rides that are ideal for kids under the age of 12 who don’t have riding experience. Detail: Sleepy Hollow on 021 789 2341 and www. The Kakapo ran aground here in 1900. These regularly compete in local races. Noordhoek Farm Village is in the centre of town and has craft shops and three restaurants: Nag’s Head.za. Thanks to the horses.za . Noordhoek Farm Village on www. horseback birding and the opportunity to see dolphins in the breakers.
The Bayside restaurant complex on the beach has three dining options: the Galley Restaurant. Back then. The prudent (some sailors surely called him something else behind his back) Lord Charles Somerset ordained that no establishment in Fish Hoek was to sell alcohol so that sailors on leave would not get too drunk! Thankfully you can now buy alcohol in the bars and restaurants. Fish Hoek does not feel as much like a fishing village as its neighbour.fishhoek. Fish Hoek Beach Sailing Club on 021 782 3205. and Drifters. The main road has all the necessary shops. Fish Hoek is a ‘dry town’. The Fish Hoek Beach Sailing club is the largest beachcat sailing club in the country (also see key 12). Kalk Bay (see key 62) – it lacks the quaintness. Detail: www. During the Cretaceous period. the Beachcomber Bistro. Masiphumelele and Ocean View.128 FISH HOEK SEASIDE TOWN KEY 65 Fish Hoek Despite its name. Simon’s Town was the major British naval port at the Cape and Fish Hoek lay on the main road between the port and Cape Town. sheltered bathing. except for one notable exception: there are no liquor stores. . Thanks to a bizarre legal relic dating from almost 200 years ago. so the situation is no longer quite as desperate. key 65) offers calm. The back of the town extends into a low-lying area that extends across the peninsula past Sun Valley to Long Beach. a takeaway joint with a vast menu. Fish Hoek’s real highlight is its beautiful beach: the bay is sheltered and very pleasant to swim in.com. Noordhoek. the sea used to cover this piece of land and the southern tip of the peninsula was an island. Bayside complex on 021 782 3354. Above: Fish Hoek (back map.
Notable wine farms include Tukulu. The diversity is due to the fact that different veld types such as Strandveld.co. In fact. www. Rietveld and Sandveld overlap and mix here. a character which created him as much as he created her. KEY 66 Above: Pieter-Dirk Uys on stage in Darling (back map. Today you can book seats for a show preceded by a traditional meal (such as bobotie) in the intimate theatre decorated with some fantastic Afrikaner-kitsch. Since 1917 there has been an annual Wildflower Show in town – this usually happens in September.co. Renosterveld. Detail: Evita se Perron at www.darlingwildflowers.za and 022 492 3930 (bookings). key 66) as Evita Bezuidenhout. actor and writer Pieter-Dirk Uys opened the Evita se Perron theatre – a nod to both Argentina’s Evita Peron and the fact that the theatre is housed in an old station building (‘perron’ is Afrikaans for ‘station platform’).co.za . it may be no surprise that another of the town’s big attractions is its wildflowers. In addition to Evita se Perron. www. The shows vary from new works in progress to re-runs of classic shows and characters. Duckitt Nurseries. an enormous orchid farm just outside town. Dressed up as Evita. With a name as cute as Darling (although it was boringly named after a military man and not a lover’s term of endearment). the town also boasts several other restaurants. Darling Cellars.darlingtourism.za. Groote Post and Cloof. this meant it was ‘discovered’ quite late. In 1995. Uys tested the boundaries when it came to poking fun at the 1980s apartheid government. Ormonde Vineyards. it took one of South Africa’s most famous performers to really put it on the map.evita.DA R L I N G DAY T R I P 129 Darling Darling lies off the main thoroughfares which snake up the West Coast (the R27 and the N7). is open on the first Saturday of the month from November to May. Darling has also been developing a name for itself as a small but dynamic wineproducing area. antique and gift shops.
took possession of the precious cargo and gave it to his head gardener. dating from pre-colonial times to the present-day. does a great job at representing the history of the land and the people. when the uninitiated talk about ‘the winelands’. it’s somewhere vaguely around Stellenbosch (key 71).130 THE WINEL ANDS EXPERIEN CE KEY 67 The Winelands The Cape is synonymous with South African wine. . Gautengers who come to visit the city for work or holiday will almost certainly be expected to disembark with a couple of carry-on wine boxes upon their return to Johannesburg. Grapes are also grown along the Orange and Vaal Rivers in the Northern Cape. Museum van de Caab. and later the small group of French Huguenots. business. Vine cuttings first came to the Cape in 1656. the origins of which are inextricably linked to the early occupation by Dutch settlers. A small museum at Solms Delta wine farm. key 67). but wine is produced all over the Western Cape. Paarl (key 70) and Franschhoek (key 105). Hendrik Boom. now global. whose pioneering farms are at the very heart of this vibrant. Jan van Riebeeck. but these regions Photos: Harvesting under way at Delheim (above) and autumn comes to a Kanonkop vineyard (opposite page) in the Cape Winelands (back map. In general. The Cape is the home of the South African wine industry. through the experience and eyes of the workers of Solms Delta. and it was no different when it came to the establishment of more commercial farms as the little colony grew. as these are the closest ports of call. when the commander of the Dutch East India Company’s newly established refreshment station. Labour for the refreshment station became increasingly dependent on a steady stream of slaves from the Dutch East Indies.
com. Don’t always head straight for the big. Robertson. It’s a relatively young vineyard though. all offering something slightly different. on a farm established in 1699. Take a chance on a newly established one. Worcester.muratie.za. kanonkop. Sperling was one of Detail: Museum van de Caab on 021 874 3937 and www. Tulbagh. and the farm’s produce has gradually become one of the region’s most sought-after wines. Olifants River. Tokara on 021 808 5900 and www. The fact is. cabriere. but the beauty of the winelands is that it will never cease to surprise you. Swellendam. So-called ‘wine routes’ are in general marketing creations. As the oldest region. Wellington.co.’ are mostly table grape producing areas. the Overberg. you can take any of the main or secondary roads around these towns and you’ll find a wine farm or five. Simonsig on 021 888 4900 and www. the Swartland. with a few exceptions. you will see the characteristic road signs.co. Deli) he handed it over to now legendary winemaker Spatz Sperling.za.co. Piketberg and the Little Karoo.za. After changing the farm’s name to Delheim (in honour of his wife. Kanonkop on 021 884 4656 and www.co.za.tokara. In addition to those mentioned above. vinehopper. because there are so many.za.co. famous wine estates. and wherever you drive around in the above regions. we’ll look at Constantia separately (key 73). The trick is to know which ones are the best. Vine Hopper on 021 882 8112 and www. You might be pleasantly surprised! Delheim lies on the slopes of Simonsberg outside Stellenbosch. Cabrière on 021 876 2630 and www. Delheim on 021 888 4600 and www. as Hans Otto Hoheisen only planted vines here in 1940. We mention some of our favourites here. co.delheim.co.za . and this is no easy task.simonsig. other Cape wine districts include Durbanville. Muratie on 021 865 2330 and www.solmsdelta.131 ‘The beauty of the winelands is that it will never cease to surprise you. or one in an unfashionable area.za.
It boasts an excellent restaurant. Pinotage. incidentally. In fact. Simonsig has in recent years won awards for its Chenin Blanc and Pinotage. Tokara is a wine and olive farm (although it also produces potstill brandy) on the Helshoogte Pass between Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. which today attracts nearly half a million visitors annually .132 THE WINEL ANDS EXPERIEN CE ‘The Stellenbosch Wine Route attracts nearly half a million visitors annually. it’s probably better known today simply as a tourist destination. off the R44 at the foot of Simonsberg mountain. and Spier has become known as much more than just a wine farm. cobwebs in the cellar are part of the charm. a one-stop shop where you can send the kids off to feed the ducks while you do some fine dining (see key 83) or enjoy great music and theatre during the Summer Arts season. three men instrumental in the establishment of the Stellenbosch Wine Route in 1971. Cabrière lies over the pass in the Franschhoek valley and is the home of Pierre Jourdan and Haute Cabrière wines. was the first locally developed grape to achieve commercial success. Kanonkop is known for its excellent Pinotage and Cabernet Sauvignon. Muratie wine estate has a 300-year-old legacy and has recently won awards for its Shiraz. Frans Malan of Simonsig and Neil Joubert of Spier were the other two men with a plan back in 1971. It was bred by Professor Abraham Perold in 1925 by crossing Pinot Noir and Cinsaut. hence it could be harvested earlier. It proved its value by being an earlier-ripening variety. like Delheim. Cabrière also makes good Pinot Noir and .’ Photos: At Muratie (above and opposite page). It is situated. Kanonkop is also near Stellenbosch and carries the name of a small hill from which a cannon used to be fired to alert local farmers to the arrival of new ships in Table Bay.
There are also many tour companies that offer winetasting tours – simply enquire at your hotel as to which ones come recommended.za.winelands. Klipdrift. In fact.za. Mont Destin pinotage bath enquiries on 021 875 5870. you can take a pinotage bath in the vineyard at Mont Destin with your partner – apparently it’s very good for your skin (and no. Backsberg Estate on 021 875 5141 and www.com.za are both decent jump sites for general information. South Africa also produces some of the world’s finest brandy. please don’t drive back home.co. Some farms sell picnic baskets which you can enjoy in their lovely grounds if you don’t want a sit-down meal – Boschendal is especially pretty.wineroute. tourismcapewinelands.co. Remember that most of the wine farms have restaurants.vanryn.za and www. there is also a brandy route in Stellenbosch. is distilled in Robertson and the distillery can be visited. Klipdrift on 021 809 7000 and www. For expert opinions on local wines.co. rather get someone else to take you. . Remember: if you’re going to be tasting wine all day long. Jourdan was a Huguenot family who settled on the farm in 1694.133 ‘Some farms sell picnic baskets which you can enjoy in their lovely grounds.co. among others. The country’s most popular brandy. www. A company that specialises in this is Vine Hopper. which operates a shuttle bus – you can hop on and off at different wine farms.platteronline.klipdrift. Detail: Van Ryn’s Brandy on 021 881 3875 and www.za. you don’t have to pay corkage).backsberg.’ sparkling wines. This is just a small sample of some excellent wine farms. John Platter South African Wine Guide on www. Backsberg Estate and the Oude Molen Brandy Museum. cellar tours and tastings. If drinking wine is not enough for you. which takes you to Van Ryn’s Distillery & Brandy Cellar. try the John Platter South African Wine Guide. which is updated annually and lists more than 5 000 wines. Stellenbosch wine routes on www.co.co.za. a service of the Adventure Shop (see key 71).
Today Simon’s Town is home to the South African Navy. 300 ships visited the dry dock for repairs. there are guided tours. It is situated in the Dockyard. It is housed in ‘The Residency’. R. the main road that runs through Simon’s Town. which can be accessed from St George Street. Able Seaman Just Nuisance.N. You can take the train all the way out here from Cape Town station. The Navy Festival happens in March and the three-day event is attended by as many as 100 000 people as the navy opens up controlled public access to their ships for a limited time. During the festival. After Jock of the Bushveld. During World War II. Possibly the best thing about Simon’s Town’s tourism industry is that a large part of it is built around a dog. key 68) is a bustling seaside town where the statue of Just Nuisance (opposite page) is a major attraction.. . a choir performance and a night shoot. built in 1777 to serve as a winter home to the Dutch governor. The Simon’s Town Museum (Court Road) contains some very good exhibits which help to bring the village’s past to life. but during that time he became the friend of just about Photos: Simon’s Town (back map. but this is where the line terminates. and lived for just seven years (1937–1944). whose ships and submarines can be seen in the harbour. must be the country’s most famous hound. The SA Naval Museum displays everything from ship and submarine models to sea mines (nasty-looking things) to uniforms. He was a Great Dane.134 SIMON’S TOWN SEASIDE TOWN KEY 68 Simon’s Town Simon’s Town is the biggest and also the last of the towns on the eastern side of the peninsula before nature resumes its dominance towards Cape Point. Simon’s Town became a navy town when the British reclaimed the Cape in 1806 and based their South Atlantic Squadron here.
’ every sailor in Simon’s Town.simonstown.com . Just Nuisance’s statue is on Jubilee Square (next to St George Street) and is a popular place to pose for a photograph. Chris and Monique Fallows. Walk to the edge of the road and look down. which is part coffee shop. SA Naval Museum on 021 787 4686. If you really want to get into it. A good place for a meal is The Meeting Place (98 St George Street). The couple behind Apex Predators. go on a shark breaching tour to Seal Island. The Meeting Place on 021 7861986. must be the country’s most famous hound. To see a unique natural event. the only place in the world where great white sharks are known to breach the surface of the water (they can literally ‘leap’ completely clear) in their efforts to catch the seals.apexpredators. Simon’s Town Museum on 021 786 3046. You’ll see a tiny habitation called Smitswinkel Bay below. At that point. are renowned nature photographers and have facilitated many documentaries shot at Seal Island about the unusual hunting behaviour of the sharks there. part deli and part restaurant. April through to September are the best months for ‘airborne’ shark viewing.135 ‘Able Seaman Just Nuisance.. He jumped trains and travelled to town with them and was eventually officially enlisted into the navy. They offer delicious buffet lunches over weekends. Detail: For more information see www. Looking for a ‘secret’ beach? Follow the coastal road south towards Cape Point until it suddenly swerves inland. R. Apex Predators on 082 364 2738 and www. park in the small parking lot on your right. during which you will learn everything you ever wanted to know about sharks. Find the footpath down and the beach is yours.com. they organise trips that last as long as ten days.N.
. On average. Kaapse Klopse events take place throughout January – a lot of it is concentrated in the city. In 1848.136 ANNUAL EVENTS ENTERTAINMENT KEY 69 Annual events Cape Town plays host to a plethora of annual events. especially in the Bo-Kaap and Rose Street. This musical tradition is still strong within the Klopse. They painted their mostly darker faces white and mocked their former masters in a playful manner through witty songs. the city grooves to the often shambolic but always infectious tunes and revelry of the Kaapse Klopse or the Cape Minstrels. some American minstrels visited the Cape. key 69.1) in the Bo-Kaap. Most of this community’s ancestors came to the Cape as slaves in the 17th and 18th centuries and the concept of the Cape minstrel carnival has its roots in the emancipation of these slaves in 1838. Here’s a quick round-up of some of the more prominent ones. The Klopse are organised into troupes (called clubs) from all over the peninsula and are almost exclusively made up of residents from the coloured community. but this role reversal struck a chord with the now ex-slaves. They were white and blackened their faces. while others have been happening for many years and are steeped in rich tradition. The Cape Argus Cycle Tour (opposite) sets off at dawn from Hertzog Boulevard in the city centre. Photos: Some of the major Kaapse Klopse (above) revelry happens in Rose Street (front map. 75% of the people who start the race manage to finish it. KAAPSE KLOPSE Starting on New Year’s Day. but some of the talent contests happen at the Athlone Stadium. Some come and go. with even the smallest boy often holding some kind of instrument.
mountain bike race and the Giro del Capo. Hout Bay and Sea Point back to the city.jbmet. There is a Tricycle Tour (toddlers under six years). Cape Argus Cycle Tour on www. Every year has a dress-up theme. Junior Cycle Tour (6–12 years). a five-day professional race. Detail: J&B Met on www. The race starts in the Cape Town city centre. Even if you have no interest in horse racing. around 40 000 people tackle the 109-kilometre route. with 525 entrants. fashions is part of the tradition. Chapman’s Peak Drive. around 40 000 people tackle the 109-kilometre route. More than 50 000 people congregate at Kenilworth Race Course for a day of sports and partying. as dressing up in fine. ‘The Argus’ is the world’s largest individually timed cycle race and has expanded to include other races during the preceding week. CAPE ARGUS CYCLE TOUR ‘The Argus’ was first held in 1978.137 ‘Nowadays.cycletour. heads south to Muizenberg and Simon’s Town. and occasionally zany. where the first race was held in 1883. first held horse races on the Green Point Common. who ruled the Cape after the Dutch. turns across the peninsula at Smitswinkel Bay and then heads up the western flank via Ocean View. ‘the Met’ is the premier horse racing event on the Cape calendar. The Argus is usually held on the second Sunday of March.za.’ J&B MET Usually run at the end of January.co. Nowadays.za . The English.co. which traverses the entire peninsula. it’s an event to see and at which to be seen. but the officers later moved their antics to Kenilworth.
MOTHER CITY QUEER PROJECT Without a doubt the biggest and most fabulous party of the year. and local hip hop group Skwatta Kamp have also graced the stages. Over the two days of the festival. with a Master of Ceremonies commenting on your group’s costumes and spotlights concentrating all the attention on you for a second – it’s make or break time! . MCQP is usually staged in December. Camera. everyone is welcome – the only rule is that you must dress up according to the theme. the Castle and Ratanga Junction have all been used as venues in the past. A creative team plans the event and a new theme is set every year. Action! and Farm Fresh. and soul acts like Roberta Flack. Local guitar virtuoso Jimmy Dludlu (opposite page) is a regular at the Cape Town International Jazz Festival. key 69. more than 40 local and international acts perform on five stages. Past themes have included Circus. the Cape Town International Jazz Festival is held annually at the Cape Town International Convention Centre (CTICC) on the foreshore. While it is a gay event. Lights. The line-up is not strictly jazz.138 ANNUAL EVENTS ENTERTAINMENT ‘Without a doubt the biggest and most fabulous party of the year …’ Photos: The Mother City Queer Project (above) is the most fun you’ll have all year with your clothes (or some of them) on. world music stars like Cesario Evora. Decorations are lavish and there are numerous dance floors catering for all music tastes. The festival is usually at the end of March or early in April. Everyone makes a grand entrance at MCQP. when the city is chock-a-block.2). CAPE TOWN INTERNATIONAL JAZZ FESTIVAL Now running for more than a decade. from dance to retro-80s. A local high school. hosted at the Cape Town International Convention Centre (front map.
cape-epic.za. book for the Table of Unity on 021 797 4500. more than 40 local and international acts perform. Cape Epic on www. communal feast right under Table Mountain. It ends near Cape Town after starting about 800 km to the east.mcqp. having followed a rugged route over mountain passes.cticc. wines and hospitality. private farm land and through forestry areas. when top city restaurants prepare flagship meals that can be sampled at low prices. and similar Tables of Unity are staged on the same day in Gauteng and Durban.co.co.org. with famous chefs preparing the five-star meal.za. which can seat 600 people.za.co. Detail: Cape Town International Jazz Festival on www.’ THE SA GOURMET FESTIVAL Sounds tasty.capetownmagazine.139 ‘Over the two days of the festival. up-to-date events calendar. but there is also Restaurant Week. . It takes place during the last week of March and the first week of April. com.capetownjazzfest. Mother City Queer Project on www. entertainment events and conferences throughout the year. for this two-week-long festival celebrates all that is good about South African food.1 km and the other event a full marathon at 56 km. com has a good. is also set up for a huge.com. The Cape Epic mountain bike race is a newer but hugely popular extreme event. which follows a route around the peninsula – one event is a half marathon with a distance of 21. Cape Town International Convention Centre schedule on www. This is a charity event. It usually takes place in April. Good Food & Wine Show on www. There is also a City Coffee Route which explores the finest places at which to have your caffeine fix. www.twooceansmarathon. Other big city sporting events include the Two Oceans Marathon. It is run on Easter Saturday. doesn’t it? And it is. A Table of Unity. Two Oceans Marathon on www.gourmetsa. OTHER BIG EVENTS The Cape Town International Convention Centre hosts a variety of expos. The highlight of the event is the Good Food & Wine Show.za.
erected in 1975 to celebrate the centenary of the movement to establish Afrikaans as a recognised language. La Concorde. Paarl is South Africa’s third oldest town. built in 1787. It has fantastic old Cape antiques as well as a comprehensive history of the area right up to the present day. Paarl makes for a great day trip out of Cape Photos: The Paarl Museum (above) is at 303 Main Street and the Taalmonument (opposite page) just outside Paarl (back map. rounded granite rocks directly to the west of town. key 70). Visible on Paarl Rock as you approach the town via the N1. The town still glistens today and a cruise down the 11 kilometres of Hoofstraat (Main Street) reveals a well-to-do lifestyle of fine restaurants. which is the Afrikaans abbreviation for the Co-operative Wine Growers’ Association. There is also an Afrikaans language museum (11 Pastorie Avenue) situated in the house where the ‘fathers’ of the language had their first meeting.140 PA ARL DAY TRIP KEY 70 Paarl After Cape Town and Stellenbosch. One of those early farms. The town derives its name from the massive. . which were witnessed by an early explorer as they glistened like pearls after a rainstorm (‘paarl’ being Dutch for ‘pearl’). Like Franschhoek and Stellenbosch. clothing stores and fine homes. coffee shops. is the Afrikaans Language Monument (Taalmonument). The Paarl Museum is housed in the Ou Pastorie (Old Parsonage). having been settled by farmers in 1687 and turned into a town in 1720 when its first church was built and the main road laid out. still lies next to the modern main road as the head offices of KWV.
pack your suit and tie and try Bosman’s at the Grande Roche Hotel (Plantasie Street) or if it’s pasta that you crave. Laborie in town. Nederburg at the eastern end of town. To build up an appetite.141 ‘Don’t be surprised if a farming tractor comes past. head for Terra Mare (90a Main Street). They range from a couple of kilometres to ten kilometres in length. La Romantica (166 Main Road) is part of a small chain of restaurants but can be banked on for quality food and a very homely atmosphere. Kikka (217 Main Street) is a favourite for its clever mixture as a flower and coffee shop and the Lecca il Gelato Italian ice-cream shop is right next door. trout and bass fishing opportunities and the Millwater Wild Flower Garden which has a fine collection of pincushion and protea species. Paarl is in the heart of the Winelands. head into the hills by taking any number of trails in the Paarl Mountain Nature Reserve.com . If you want to go fancy. Why not attempt a slow. where there is a Venetian glass-blowing studio and the excellent De Leuwen Jagt restaurant. the spectacularly situated Rhebokskloof north of the mountain and finish your day at Seidelberg. There are also mountain biking trails. then move to Zandwijk (home to the kosher Kleine Draken Wines). Don’t be surprised if a farming tractor comes past – some of the old vineyards such as Laborie are right in town. anti-clockwise circumnavigation of Paarl Mountain? Start at Fairview. with fine wine estates too numerous to mention. Detail: Paarl Tourism (216 Main Road) on 021 872 0860 and www. because it is packed with great eateries where you can brunch or lunch and soak up the atmosphere as the locals go about their business.’ Town.paarlonline.
but could be a world away. Named after an early Governor at the Cape. Van der Stel loved the place and it’s thanks to him that the town sports magnificent oak-lined streets such as Dorp Street. key 71) and offers everything from bustling shopping areas to quieter sidewalks where you can enjoy something to eat. Stellenbosch University (opposite) has about 23 000 students and was established in 1866. Suddenly. complete with guides dressed in period clothing. because Stellenbosch is relatively safe and many of the main attractions are concentrated in a small area. where the old town layout and narrow streets simply cannot cope with the large number of vehicles. which gives it the nickname of the Eikestad (City of Oaks). replaced by vineyards and a town moving at a leisurely place. Simon van der Stel. The Village Museum (18 Ryneveld Street) is an immaculately maintained museum. . Primarily known as a centre of the winelands and as a student town.142 STELLENBOSC H DAY TRIP KEY 71 Stellenbosch Stellenbosch is less than 45 minutes from the heart of Cape Town. it has embraced tourism to such an extent that you are now spoilt for choice as to which coffee shop or restaurant you should dine at. the presence of city and sea is gone. the only thing worse than rush-hour traffic in Cape Town is rush-hour traffic in Stellenbosch. The group of restored buildings depict distinct old Cape building styles prevalent between 1690 and 1870 (also see key 31. In fact. Architecture). One way to avoid the traffic is to park your car and set out on foot. It’s by no means a small town though – it has become a sought-after address and many people live here but work in Cape Town itself. Photos: Bird Street (above) is the main road in Stellenbosch (back map. the area was first settled in 1680.
If all you really Detail: Stellenbosch Tourism (36 Market Street) on 021 883 3584 and www. including ones by artists such as Robert Hodgins.museums. University Museum on 021 808 3691. Many local artists have galleries in town and the Stellenbosch Art Gallery (34 Ryneveld Street) is a good place to pop in for an overview of works. Other Stellenbosch museums include the VOC Kruithuis (the Dutch East India Company’s gun powder magazine) which dates from a time when the town square. is the Toy and Miniature Museum (116 Dorp Street). Sasol Art Museum on 021 808 3691. Oom Samie se Winkel (84 Dorp Street) is a quaint old shop restored to resemble the trading stores of old. but thankfully Stellenbosch never saw any serious armed conflict. to cars and doll houses are displayed. The University Museum (52 Ryneveld Street) isn’t the most fascinating. the Blue Train. Oom Samie se Winkel on 021 887 0797. the Braak.stellenboschartgallery.co. Piet Grobler and Hardy Botha.za .za. Stellenbosch Museum on 021 887 2948 and www.org. was used for military exercises. but don’t miss the Sasol Art Museum in the same building. The Kruithuis was completed in 1777. Right next door is a branch of the popular Melissa’s deli (there is another in Cape Town’s Kloof Street – see key 23).co. This is of course wine country.za/stellmus. It sells everything from curios to baskets to brooms and preserves.143 ‘You are now spoilt for choice as to which coffee shop or restaurant you should dine at. Stellenbosch Art Gallery on 021 887 8343 and www. The Erfurthuis houses the museum offices and a reference library.stellenboschtourism. with the products of 106 cellars registered as Stellenbosch wines of origin – but we spoke more about that in key 67.’ Something the kids might like. where miniature models of everything from South Africa’s famous luxury train. where contemporary and retrospective work is exhibited.
From here. Wijnhuis on 021 887 5844. on the R44 towards Klapmuts) is a one-stop hiking and biking outfit where you can hire bikes and buy permits for several trails. It is also very popular to hike to the top of Klapmutskop to watch the full moon rise. L’Olive on 021 887 8985. If you are staying for the night – and many visitors prefer to base themselves here rather than in Cape Town – there are many places in which to seek out entertainment. in the Klapmutskop conservancy near the farm. The Dorp Street Theatre (59 Dorp Street) is an intimate venue which offers an excellent night out of music and fine food. then the mountains to the east of town are where you need to go. pubs and coffee shops. the Vintner’s route (three kilometres) and the Devon Valley route (nine kilometres).’ Photos: Andringa (above) and Dorp (opposite page) are two of the beautiful oak-lined streets in Stellenbosch. Both offer several good restaurants. Eat out: De Volkskombuis on 021 887 2121. Dirtopia (based at Delvera farm. De Akker (90 Dorp Street) is one of the oldest pubs in town and upstairs (which is called The Hidden Cellar) regularly hosts rock bands. several hiking trails fan out and there is also trout fishing (key 78).144 STELLENBOSC H DAY TRIP ‘… where the Jonkershoek and Stellenbosch mountains rise like a seemingly impenetrable wall. out to Jonkershoek or through the nearby vineyards. The Blue Orange on 021 887 2052. See if you can catch local legend Valiant Swart with his folk-rocking tunes of love . Golden Wheat on 021 883 2410. Sugarbird Manor (Devon Valley Road) serves as starting point for three hikes: the Mountain route (about 15 kilometres). Follow the road out to Jonkershoek. At the Adventure Shop (36 Market Street) you can hire a mountain bike and cycle through the town. which ends at a nature reserve where the Jonkershoek and Stellenbosch mountains rise like a seemingly impenetrable wall. want to do is get out into the plentiful fresh air. including a vineyard hike.
for Mediterranean style try Wijnhuis (corner of Church and Andringa streets) and for modern. sit down at the amicable L’Olive (Oude Hoek. There are places aplenty at which to dine in Stellenbosch. The Blue Orange (77 Dorp Street) is just the place for an enormous brunch after a heavy night on the town – don dark glasses and brave the front porch or settle down in the small back garden with the Sunday paper.sugarbirdmanor.za. . such as Malay food.’ lost and good times found. book a few extra days and immerse yourself properly in the wonders of the area. Andringa Street) which is run by the principal of the Institute for Culinary Arts. Die Mystic Boer (live bands plus good DJs) and Bohemia (talk the night away) are closer to the university and are popular party spots.co. Dirtopia on 021 884 4752 and www. The glasses of red wine there seem to refill themselves! Oude Libertas Amphitheatre is more upmarket and hosts classical music.dirtopia. Dorp Street Theatre on 021 8866 107 and www. If you feel like sushi. while the Klein Libertas Theatre is a relaxed venue for music.co. Endler Hall (Conservatory of Music) at the university also hosts classical music performances.co. you can’t go wrong with De Volkskombuis (Aan de Wagen Road). A brief visit to Stellenbosch will only reveal that you’re but skimming the surface of what can be seen and done. poetry readings and non-mainstream theatre. Detail: Adventure Shop on 021 882 8112.za Live music and theatre: De Akker on 021 883 3512. Sugarbird Manor on 021 865 2313 and www. For entertainment options at Spier. see key 83.145 ‘You can hire a mountain bike and cycle through the town. For traditional local fare. Jonkershoek Nature Reserve on 021 866 1560. Klein Libertas Theatre on 021 883 8164. Oude Libertas Amphitheatre on 021 809 7473. Endler Hall on 021 808 2334.za. film festivals and more.dorpstraat. tasty and healthy. The HB Thom Theatre at the university frequently has good student or professional plays on. Next time you come. try Golden Wheat (15 Ryneveld Street). HB Thom Theatre on 021 808 3216.
0146 KEY 72 Stellenbosch Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
0147 pull quote .
the Cape Flats to one side. for this is the image which has become its brand. Completed in 1920. There are benches on which to sit and you can while away an entire afternoon here. The result is that. and the eastern side of the peninsula on the other. Muizenberg has not been as fashionable a place as nearby Kalk Bay or St James in Photos: Muizenberg’s (back map. and the Hottentots Holland mountains which come to an end at Cape Hangklip. The mountain in the background (opposite page) is also known as Muizenberg. you can see Strand and Gordon’s Bay. you can even try whale-spotting during season. In the distance. One way to escape this is to take Boyes Drive. You might find a peculiar sight up here if you know what to look for. key 72) most iconic scene is this one (above) of the multicoloured beach huts used as changing rooms on the main beach. If a shark is spotted near the surfers or bathers. with the R310 bringing traffic from the Cape Flats and Main Road (the M4) from Cape Town’s southern suburbs. squeezed into a corner where the Cape Flats meet the Muizenberg mountain. a beautiful scenic drive which runs along the slopes of Muizenberg. over weekends and peak holidays. The consistent waves here make it the perfect place to learn to surf. a signal is given and the alarm is raised. it offers stunning views over the town below. the drive through Muizenberg to Kalk Bay and beyond can slow to a crawl. But there’s a real town behind the beach huts. just above the houses. watching the breakers down below in False Bay. Armed with binoculars. . dotted with numerous surfers. across the bay. Roads also converge here.148 MUIZE NBERG SEASIDE TOWN KEY 72 Muizenberg You would be forgiven for thinking that Muizenberg consists of a row of colourful beach huts and nothing else. A shark-spotter is stationed up here with a pair of binoculars to keep an eye on the surfing area below. The scenic Boyes Drive runs across its slopes.
. Cecil John Rhodes also spent his last years here and died at Rhodes Cottage in 1902. the area opened up for development when the railway was completed in 1822. The Olive Station (165 Main Road) is one of the best places to dine on light meals and. The Masque Theatre on Main Road has regular shows and The Empire Café (11 York Road) is a great little coffee shop with very friendly service near Surfer’s Corner. watching the breakers down below. but it has become more popular in recent times. It has an upstairs section where you could dig your elbows into a table with a heavy book in front of your eyes and let a few hours slide by without much trouble. Renowned as one of the best surfing spots in the peninsula (see key 57). The land adjacent to the new road became sought after and.149 ‘You can while away an afternoon here. Empire Café on 021 788 1250. a view over the beach and live music.sharkspotters. there has recently been development on its beachfront with rejuvenation projects to come. Shark Spotters on www. Detail: www. check out Fogey’s Railway House Restaurant (Main Road). yes. thanks to gold magnates like Abe Bailey and Gardner Williams (who made their fortune on the Witwatersrand gold reefs in the late 19th century) who built homes here. situated above the old red-bricked Edwardian railway station.za. Historically. Masque Theatre bookings on 021 788 6999. Fogey’s offers wireless Internet which you are welcome to use as long as you order something to eat and bring your own laptop. it became known as Millionaire’s Mile. For good food. Fogey’s Railway House Restaurant on 021 788 3252.’ the past.muizenberg. but only really took off when the road between Muizenberg and Kalk Bay was fixed up and widened in 1904. The Olive Station on 021 788 3264.info.org. the deli section sells olives to die for.
at low prices. the wine on his table came from Constantia.za ‘When Napoleon was incarcerated on St Helena Island. At Simon’s Restaurant. a few hours spent at Groot Constantia is a good quick-fix alternative. but the state. Groot Constantia is the oldest of South Africa’s wine farms. you can either sit at a table or. When Napoleon was incarcerated on St Helena Island. both Dutch and British colonial administrations were so fond of it. Jonkershuis Restaurant offers food with a Cape Malay influence and there is also a deli section where you can enjoy fine coffee. outside on a picnic blanket under the giant oaks. it has long been one of the foremost producers of wine. A fire all but destroyed the house in 1925.co. Established in 1685 by Governor Simon van der Stel. this Cape Dutch treasure welcomes visitors who want to taste and purchase wine. if you want to enjoy the beautiful surrounds. Hendrik Cloete. In fact. who owned it by then. Today.grootconstantia.’ . Detail: Groot Constantia (back map. The original buildings were reworked between 1789 and 1792 by the then owner. a set number of bottles to them every year. had it faithfully restored to its former glory. key 73) on 021 794 5128 and www.150 GROOT C ONSTANTIA WINE FARM KEY 73 Groot Constantia If you don’t have time for a more extensive cruise through the winelands around Stellenbosch and Paarl. that the owners of the farm were obliged by law to provide. for personal use and as gifts for visiting dignitaries. see the art in the Rossouw Modern Gallery and enjoy a good meal in one of the two restaurants. the wine on his table came from Constantia. He got in the best: French architect Louis Thibault and sculptor Anton Anreith worked their magic on the new cellars.
Sanctuary at Twelve Apostles on 021 437 9000. pop in to the Long Street Turkish Baths (see key 21) or visit the very professional Cape Medi-Spa (99 Kloof Street). The Spa Steenberg on 021 713 2222. . (The African hot stone massage is a regional speciality and is available at several local spas. Mangwanani Private African Day Spa offers a uniquely African experience. For a longer trip out of town. For something cheaper. Indian head. This is a room where you (and your partner if you choose) rub yourself with mud.) A special feature of this calm. It is situated among the vineyards on Zevenwacht wine farm near Kuils River. There are hot and cold plunge pools. Constantia Uitsig on 021 794 6500. relaxing environment is the view over the harbour and Signal Hill. the mud is removed for a gentle exfoliation and rejuvenation of the skin. The Constantia valley is a ‘wellness’ haven and has several spas amongst which Constantia Uitsig. Detail: Arabella Spa (Cape Town) on 021 701 1202. The Stillness Manor and Spa on 021 713 8800. the Spa Steenberg and the Stillness Manor and Spa are highly recommended. They also offer grapeseed and rooibos extract treatments as well as a Pinotage bath. Arabella Spa (Kleinmond) on 028 284 0000. key 74) has an infinity pool and a 24-hour gym. Swedish. and some of these are regarded as the best around. disappear for a weekend to the humble Warmwaterberg Spa in the Klein Karoo. Cape Medi-Spa on 021 422 5140. deep tissue. Situated on the 19th floor of the Westin Grand Cape Town Arabella Quays is the Arabella Spa. Warmwaterberg Spa on 028 572 1609. Mangwanani on 0860 55 00 55. KEY 74 Above: The Arabella Spa (front map. foot.S PA S R E L A X 151 Spas Most of the top hotels in the city have in-house spas. It also has the only Rasul Chamber in town. a sauna and hydrotherapy bath. and African hot stone massages. Massage techniques available include shiatsu. The Sanctuary Spa at the Twelve Apostles Hotel is set into the slope of the mountain in an underground grotto. Once steam has been piped into the room and has moistened the mud.
key 75) is based in a studio with high ceilings which contribute to the good energy of the location. For those who need their fix in a gym – pounding the treadmill or doing weight reps – there are several choices. Zenzero (127 Bree Steet) is conveniently located for anyone staying in the city bowl. for some muaythai training at their Dragon Power gym (cnr De Villiers and Stirling streets) No. Gardens Virgin Active on 021 462 6239. yoga. A simple walk or jog along the Sea Point Promenade (key 5) is one of the best ways to get rid of stiff limbs after a long flight or bus trip. water aerobics. Virgin Active is a big chain of gyms and they have a couple of branches in the city. you don’t have to fight! Above: Zenzero (front map.dragonpower. Yoga Zone on 021 421 8136. one in the city centre (21 Lower Long Street) and another in Green Point. free weights.zenzero. not to mention a steep hike up Platteklip Gorge to conquer Table Mountain. The Point Virgin Active on 021 434 0750. They have Pilates sessions and offer various yoga styles such as hatha yoga. Cape Town Virgin Active on 021 421 5857. Dragon Power on 021 461 8088 and www. spinning.152 YOGA & GYM GETTIN G EXERCISE KEY 75 Exercising in the city Getting exercise in Cape Town is a pleasure. power yoga and ashtanga yoga. a pool and a sauna. Yoga has become increasingly popular in the city amongst those in search of a lowimpact workout. which is simply known as ‘The Point’ (Bill Peters Drive).za. pilates. There are special pregnancy classes and exclusive lymphasising classes which will help you to detoxify your body by jumping on a trampoline. Also in the inner city is Yoga Zone (58 Strand Street. kata boxing. the Chong brothers. For a workout with a difference.co. join local celebs.co. They offer squash. Detail: Zenzero on 083 462 8626 and www. There is a Gardens branch at Wembley Square (McKenzie Road).za . power hatha sessions and Iyengar yoga. Picbel Parkade) which offers bikram yoga.
you will find a relaxed. have a massive array of traditional and modern-day crafts. The Pan African Market is an ideal shopping experience. holistic healer and tailor on the premises. visit the outdoor sculpture park where the M65 joins the M66 (Red Hill Road) en route to Cape Point via Scarborough. which it remained for most of the previous century. If you want to buy a half-ton stone hippo. the African Women’s Trading Market (112 Long Street) and the Pan African Market (76 Long Street) also hold plenty of items. Detail: Pan African Market on 021 426 4478. such as scenic picnic spots along the coastal drives. you’ll see an inscription that reads: ‘In memory of Minnie & Maria Bam. Two convenient shopping areas. Carefully selected traders and artisans from more than a dozen different African countries have occupied this beautiful four-storey building since 1997. Up on the third-storey balcony. There is also a hairdresser. In nearby Long Street. You hardly have to go looking for traditional crafts. situated at the V&A Waterfront. non-pushy atmosphere where you can really engage with the artists and learn more about the works that you buy. Greenmarket Square (key 34) has a high concentration of both modern and traditional artwork. the sellers are often already set up where they know the tourists will visit. key 76).S H O P F O R A F R I CA N A RT 153 African art Artisans from all over Africa call Cape Town home. you will find plenty of items to choose from. In the city centre. . Founded 1886. the Blue and the Red sheds. rebuilt 1903. At the Pan African Market. KEY 76 Above: At the Pan African Market (front map. The latter is especially famous for its selection of masks.’ They were twins who died of enteric fever after returning to Germany – their father then donated their home to be converted into a YWCA.
so you’ll have no problem getting from the one end to the other. . with Afro-pop favourites Freshlyground having a song called ‘Mowbray Kaap’ on their first album. minibus taxis carry millions of people to and from work every day.154 GETTING AROUND IN A MINIBUS TA X I KEY 77 Take the minibus taxi All over South Africa. To hail a minibus taxi you just have to look vaguely like you need a ride – in other words. but if you are going to stay for a while and travel a regular route frequently. just get into the taxi if it’s heading in the right direction. carting 200 000 people to work and back every day. It’s only really viable if you’re staying close to one of their bus stops. They are not often used by tourists. The title refers to what the guardjie screams out of the window at potential passengers to tell them of the taxi’s destination and route. The biggest taxi rank in the city is situated on top of the Cape Town train station (front map. find a seat as soon as possible and then pass the amount to the guardjie (the door guard). You pay the fare as you get onto the bus. you can sometimes ask them to veer off their route to drop you closer to your destination. tell them where you’d like to go and the driver will drop you off at the closest point that it suits him or her. The minibus taxi is even honoured in local music. key 77). Above: Main Road in Sea Point is a major minibus taxi route. it will be your most economic option. Ask how much the ride will be as you get in. you just need to be walking. A taxi with room to spare will slow down and shout out its destination (‘Sea Point!’) to see if you express any interest in the offer. Otherwise. As they don’t run between set bus stops. Have small change ready as handing over a big note to pay a fare of a few rands might cause delays if you want change. The ubiquitous Golden Arrow buses run along more rigid routes and schedules.
There is good large.co. Wynberg) on 021 762 8007. If you’re having no luck with the fishing. Elandspad River in the Dutoitskloof Mountains and the Molenaars River (next to the N1 once through the Huguenot Tunnel). hook a right to Wuppertal.za. . Holsloot upstream from Rawsonville. Popular rivers include Witte River near Bain’s Kloof (key 102). Jonkershoek on 021 886 1011. key 78) are stocked with rainbow trout. which hosts the Bass Classic competition in October. large-mouth bass and kurpers. Cape Piscatorial Society on 021 424 7725 and at www. Theewaterskloof Dam on 028 840 2091. The farm is beautifully situated and easy to get to. Detail: Eikendal Vineyards fly-fishing on 021 855 2646. The society manages a lot of the streams and still waters on behalf of Cape Nature. Some of the first trout to be released into South African waters were bred in 1893 at Jonkershoek near Stellenbosch. On the other side of the pass.piscator. These old hatcheries and ponds have been repaired in recent years to turn Jonkershoek into a very accessible fly-fishing venue. There is a fully stocked fly-fishing shop on the premises and they offer beginner courses for those who fear the way of the fly. so you can organise permits and book a beat directly with them. an old Moravian mission station. you can always just sign up for a bit of winetasting to save the weekend. be sure to detour up the Pakhuis Pass which traverses the Cederberg mountains here. Freshwater fishing licenses can be purchased at any Post Office branch. Upstream Flyfishing shop (45 Lester Road. so you don’t have to rough it at all. Clanwilliam Dam on 027 482 8012. KEY 78 Above: The two dams at Eikendal Vineyards (back map.F I S H I N G F R E S H WAT E R 155 Freshwater fishing One of the most accessible places to fly-fish is Eikendal Vineyards outside Stellenbosch. If you drive up to Clanwilliam.and small-mouth black bass fishing at Theewaterskloof Dam and Clanwilliam Dam. The Cape Piscatorial Society should be your first stop if you want to go fly-fishing in the beautiful mountain streams of the Cape.
biltong kiosk. coffee and beer. . key 79) is a Greek-themed eatery and coffee shop. Café Erte in Sea Point (256a Main Road) is a cybercafé where you can also go clubbing. pharmacy. Geek (39 Kloof Street) is neat and comfy and just down the road from Vida e Caffé. They are open from 6 am to 5 pm during the week and 9 am to 1 pm on Saturdays. Above: Café Neo (front map. Looking out over the Green Point lighthouse in Mouille Point. It’s open every day of the year from 9 am to 11 pm. there are several good places to check for email from your mom. Café Neo (129 Beach Road) is an excellent place to knuckle down with your laptop for a morning of leisurely web surfing. with the latest electronica. backpackers and B & Bs have facilities for their guests. And you can buy cocktails and get something to eat while you’re at it. scanning and CD-burning facilities. hairdresser. Café Erte is open from 10 am to 4 am daily. banks. It’s open from 7 am to 7 pm all week. there are internet cafés all over Cape Town. travel agent. health shop. Gardens Online is in the Gardens Centre. Several other coffee shops in the city have a similar arrangement. clothing stores. trance and whatnot pumping while you change your Facebook profile picture. but you can surf free as long as you order something and have your own laptop. The Centre is a good one-stop in which to do all your shopping – it has a supermarket. the prominent high-rise on Mill Street. outdoor gear shop. but if you’re busy exploring on foot.Café is in the same building as the Cape Town Tourism Office (cnr Burg & Castle streets) and serves food. There are also printing. restaurants. It is open from 9 am to 11 pm on weekdays and until 10 pm on weekends. Most hotels. but enquire before you sit down. The Info.156 INTERNET CAFÉS EMAIL HOME KEY 79 Internet cafés Though not nearly as prevalent as they are in most of the world’s big cities. German deli and safe parking.
darkieclothing. kwaito and house music when the party hits its stride. including local celebrities like clothing designer Darkie. Mzoli’s does not sell liquor. where tourists and white Capetonians who might never have set foot in Guguletu before can hang out with people with whom they might otherwise never socialise.co. but he probably had no idea just how popular his business would become. but you can buy liquor from container stores nearby. follow the M10 until you reach Klipfontein Road. Mzoli’s is based in the township of Guguletu. So what is Mzoli’s? It’s a place where you can eat meat and drink beer. posing for photographs (there are official photographers on site) and so forth – it’s like meeting the pope of meat! KEY 80 How to get there: Head out of the city on the N2 towards the airport. on their home turf. Order a plastic tray full of meat for your friends and enjoy it in the outside area (see following pages) where there are a limited number of tables and chairs. Cars throng around the place. It gets especially busy at weekends. even big names like DJ Fresh. turn left. Turn into street NY11 and park where you can (back map. drive through the traffic lights and Mzoli’s will be on your left past the shopping centre. pick your boerewors or lamb chops. making parking a nightmare and the division between crowd. See www. restaurant and residential area becomes blurred pretty quickly. pump the latest dance.TOW N S H I P V I B E M Z O L I ’ S 157 Hang out at Mzoli’s In 2003. when it can get uncomfortably full as thousands converge on the spot. . take the M10 offramp (Guguletu). started by Themba Mngomezulu. DJs. Mzoli Ngcawuzele (seen above greeting some patrons) dreamt of big things. Once at Mzoli’s. peaking on Sundays. go into the butchery. Who’s Darkie? It’s actually the name of a hip clothing label. shaking hands with people at all the tables. key 80). Mzoli himself is often on the premises. but the clientele comes from all over – tourists and locals alike stream here.za for some of his fine threads. pay and then wait for the meat to be braaied in the back.
0158 KEY 81 Mzoli’s Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
0159 pull quote .
Pick up a copy of their in-house magazine. Vida e Caffé. the world is just a little zippier. Lazari (cnr Upper Maynard and Vredehoek avenues) has large windows which look out onto a corner of the residential neighbourhood of Vredehoek. as all coffee addicts know. Obrigado. Try the specialities: the Golden Cup House Blend or Out of Africa – they’re the business! Another legendary place is Origin Coffee Roasting in De Waterkant (28 Hudson Street).2) in Kalk Bay. so you’ll probably leave with X-ray vision. It can fix a late night’s partying the morning after or spark up flagging conversation with your fellow travellers at the end of a long day. Guatemala) and African (Cameroon. With caffeine in your bloodstream. espressos and filter coffee available. key 81. in business for almost 50 years.Anthony’s Golden Cup (front map. with specially blended mixes for plungers.160 C OFFE E SHOPS THE BEST IN THE CIT Y KEY 81 The best coffee shops A good coffee at the right time can make or break a day. The prominent city ones are in Sea Point Main Road. The city’s most happening coffee chain. Kenya) plantations. whose baristas are multiple national champs. It’s a bit out of the Above and inset: Just tell Anthony Swartz what kind of taste you’re after and he’ll make you the perfect cup . Opposite: Another happy sip about to be taken at Olympia Café (back map. . has 17 outlets around the city and its suburbs. Kloof Street and the V&A Waterfront. which usually has good articles about whatever’s blipping loudly on the local cultural radar. There is often relaxed live music in the Courtyard Café. They don’t mess about – all their drinks are double shots. key 81. this is where to come.1). If you want to purchase ground coffee to use at home. Anthony Swartz’s coffee is never more than three days old and comes from South American (Colombia. Our favourite haunt is Anthony’s Golden Cup (59 Loop Street).
snuggle-with-your-lover place. There’s also a deli section that you might want to investigate if you’re heading out for a picnic afterwards. . Search out Derry Street (Vredehoek). great confectionary and baked goods – try the muffins. Families converge here en masse over weekends so that the kids can hit the adjacent playground. the best place to increase your inner peace is the Sophea Gallery & Tibetan Teahouse in Simon’s Town (2 Harrington Road).za.161 ‘All their drinks are double shots – so you’ll probably leave with X-ray vision.za.originroasting. it’s a converted house with cool pop arty décor. Tea is often other people’s coffee. dining and jolling options. Nothing like an American diner.co. Another good daytime perch is Deer Park Café (2 Deer Park Drive).co. candlelit tables. which is safely fenced in so that the children don’t run out into the traffic. and in this case. Olympia Café (134 Main Road) in Kalk Bay serves fantastic cappuccinos and the legendary bakery ensures fresh ciabatta. Anthony’s Golden Cup on 021 426 1268 and www. decent meals and lots of parking in the square which it overlooks. Miss K in Green Point (65 Main Road) does good breakfasts and cupcakes of all shapes and sizes to complement your cup – and we can’t put the word ‘cake’ in a sentence without telling you that Charly’s Bakery (20 Roeland Street) makes the tastiest and most beautiful ones into which we have ever sunk our teeth. Origin Coffee Roasting on 021 421 1000 and www. Detail: Vida e Caffé branches on www. Roodebloem Road (Woodstock) and Klipfontein Road (Mowbray) for alternative coffee.co.za More cool areas: We have criminally neglected some cool neighbourhoods and streets in this guide. search out the tiny Roxy’s Diner in Dunkley Square (follow the signs to the square off Hatfield Street). A cosy. croissants and sweet delights every morning. For a late night cuppa. Frangipani’s is in Woodstock (76 Roodebloem). further up in the same neighbourhood. It’s a breakfast and lunch spot as it’s not open in the evenings.goldencup. It offers a large selection of chai teas.caffe.’ way and great if you don’t feel like hassling for parking in one of the busier city streets.
small Victorian houses and large student population due to its proximity to the University of Cape Town. has a neon sign that’s hard to miss. . Lower Main Road runs at an angle from Albert Road until it joins Main Road near St Peter’s Square. The part of Observatory between Main Road and the mountain is mostly taken up by Groote Schuur Hospital. drink and entertainment. Known simply as ‘Obs’. with its narrow streets. pharmacy and post office. Most of the eating and drinking establishments are concentrated between the couple of blocks between Station Road and Bowden Road.162 OBSERVATORY BOHEMIAN SUBURB KEY 82 Observatory Observatory. a newsagent. which you’ll need to keep in mind when you leave for home a few drinks stronger. key 82) staple. the UCT Medical School and St Peter’s Square. that seems to mean that it lacks the hip throngs of Long Street. the booze is cheap and there’s a balcony to relax on if the pool game becomes too heated. so you’re bound to get an open table. Stones pool-bar. Obz Café (inset) is another Observatory (back map. although new places have been opening further down as the area slowly wakens to its potential. Follow a very steep staircase. supports an interesting nightlife along Lower Main Road and has a fair number of homeless people who might come knock on your door when it’s cold. In practice. the area has quite a multinational make-up. with many people from other African countries calling it home. The décor consists of framed liquor advertisements. Photos: Musicians Gil Starkim and Ze Maria (above) settle down for a meal before their gig at Café Ganesh. offering good food. Stones pool-bar (opposite page) has 19 tables. surrounded by pool tables. has a reputation for being a bohemian suburb. which is part of a franchise that you’ll see countrywide. up to a high-ceilinged hall with a circular bar counter in the centre. a shopping centre with a large Pick n Pay.
Café Ganesh is in Trill Road just off Lower Main Road and is one of the hood’s most legendary establishments. For dessert: lemon meringue tart. It was constructed by the British in 1821 in a time before electricity and hence a lot less light pollution! The Noon Gun (see key 20) is set off with an electronic time signal from here. Obz Books is open till late and perfect for a scrounge-around if you’ve run out of holiday reading. with Obz Café next to it. Chinese and Japanese food. The décor is spoton modern-day South Africana. Take advantage of the ‘eat all you can’ special on a Saturday night. It serves great African food without making a touristy fuss about it. Every pub spills out into the street with beer gardens. you will see a turnoff to the South African Astronomical Observatory. . of which there are precious few in Cape Town. If you continue over the traffic lights at Liesbeek Parkway. which serves good Korean. stall holders come to sell their food and wares and at one end there’s a stage where local bands perform. plays (Wednesdays to Saturdays) and stand-up comedy. beans and mutton. We also recommend the falafel as a vegetarian option and the crayfish samoosas.’ Across the road is Panchos. Try the umnqusho stew of samp.163 ‘Observatory has a reputation for being a bohemian suburb. Crossing the railway via Station Road towards Liesbeek Parkway. which gives the suburb its name. just because you don’t get them anywhere else. a decent Mexican restaurant. Further up Lower Main is Sushi Zone. the Hartleyvale sports fields (you will see the lights from afar) and the Observatory municipal pool lie to your right. Detail: The Obs Festival is a weekend-long street festival early in December during which the hub of Lower Main Road is closed to traffic. Obz Café serves good meals throughout the day and at night part of it is converted into a theatre that hosts live music (Tuesdays and Sundays).
There is also a raptor rehabilitation centre. You can take short walks and horse rides along the Eerste River which runs through the property. moyo on 021 809 1133. Jonkershuis Restaurant on 021 809 1159. Eagle Encounters. Detail: General information on 021 809 1100 and www. Tunisian vegetable stew. The workers’ children have a modern school on site and all development has been done with the environment in mind. The man behind the rise of Spier was Dick Enthoven. The Africa Centre has brought excellent. Spier is one of the nicest ones in which to be stuck! Photos: The moyo restaurant at Spier (back map. sustainable wine farming. they will come’. One of the best things about Spier is how it has taken the lead in creating a new culture of responsible. who bought the farm in 1993 and turned it into the premier destination it has since become. As tourist traps go. where injured birds are nursed back to health. gemsbok and ostrich fillet. poetry gatherings and plays – a treat in summer if the weather plays along. and springbok shank potjie from South Africa. Mombasa-style chicken. set under an enormous 300-year old oak tree (you can even sit in the tree) and covered with Bedouin-style tents.co. The menu is vast: tabouleh salad from North Africa. Probably the most popular restaurant at Spier is moyo.za. Cheetah Outreach has a facility on the Spier premises where you can see these beautiful creatures up close and help to protect their status in the wild at the same time. key 83) offers activities such as traditional face painting (below). .spier.164 SPIER WINE & DINE KEY 83 Spier Spier is a living example of ‘if you build it. contemporary African art to Spier and the amphitheatre plays host to wonderful outdoor concerts.
There are the bars where. is where you would like to spend the evening if you know the difference between a whiskey and a whisky. so the best thing is to linger and wait for when the DJs come on. Daddy Cool Bar at the Grand Daddy Hotel on 021 424 7247. situated at the Cape Grace Hotel in the V&A Waterfront. you might as well join their Whisky Club. ‘You’ll be having fun like your surname’s Hilton and your dog wears diamonds. the USA and Canada. a beer-drinking. If you’re going to return to Cape Town every few months. Soma Dennis. For those new to the drink. These sessions take place at 6 pm. On offer here are 460 whiskies originating from premier producing countries such as Scotland.’ Detail: Bascule Whisky Bar and Wine Cellar at Cape Grace Hotel on 021 410 7100. The big parties usually happen on Fridays and Saturdays. there are introductory tastings while the pros can join the in-house whisky sommelier. on a connoisseur’s journey. pair of designer pants and patent leather shoes to match. dirty-T-shirt-and-torn-denim-wearing student would give you a second glance and wonder if you’re in the right place. The Bascule Whisky Bar and Wine Cellar. if you were to walk in wearing a smart shirt. Then you’ll be having fun like your surname’s Hilton and your dog wears diamonds. And then there are the bars where the opposite is true. That way. There is so much hipness here you won’t know what to do with it. which will keep your favourite bottles locked up in a private cabinet. Ireland. key 84).W H I S K Y BA R R E L A X I N ST Y L E 165 Whisky bars Bar crowds are often strictly divided. the barman will definitely remember which one’s your ‘usual’! The Daddy Cool Bar at the Grand Daddy Hotel (38 Long Street) is a modern set up in a Georgian building. KEY 84 Above: The Bascule Whisky Bar and Wine Cellar (front map. .
If the right barman makes it. weary travellers just back from an overland trip up Africa.166 NIGHT LIFE BARS AND PUBS KEY 85 Bars for everyone One of the most accessible everyday bars in town is Rafiki’s. Old bars with real character are the Kimberley Hotel (cnr of Roeland and Buitenkant streets). Another very relaxed bar with a good vibe (in other words. where no one cares what you’re wearing) is The Shack. students. Da Gama Portuguese Tavern (3 Alfred Street) and the Perseverance Tavern (83 Buitenkant Street). situated above Joburg Bar in Long Street. There are some pool tables and if you’re nice to the barman he might honour your music request if it’s stored on the computer. key 85). The crowd is a mixture of young people who work in the city and live in the surrounding neighbourhoods. Photos: The Wedding DJs (above) are unashamed 80s specialists and have regular parties at LB’s (front map. which is the oldest pub in town and has been open for raucousness since 1808. the place opens up onto several levels. situated next to the live music venue Mercury Live (43 De Villiers Street). The balcony tables are the best perches if you want to hold down a conversation as it gets noisy inside – and that loud rapper is sometimes one of the barmen! During sporting tournaments. the big screens here make it a lively place to watch the game. Once you’ve wound your way up the dark wooden staircase. their frozen margaritas are excellent. . It has an outside area and several rooms with different bars and tunes on two floors. situated at a busy intersection at the bottom of Kloof Nek Road. The Fireman’s Arms (cnr Buitengracht and Mechau streets). musicians and other interesting folk. Between 11 am and 3 pm they have a good menu with mussel and prawn specials so big that you won’t be able to finish.
The bar is not called The Martini for nothing – it has 152 martinis from which to choose! Never to be outdone. Some nights you get a good one. but one is often left disappointed. The Radisson SAS Hotel Waterfront. head straight for Café Mojito (265 Long Street) and the Ché Bar (227 Long Street) where you shouldn’t be shy to ask for the chocolate mint martini. Another place that makes a surprising chocolate martini is the Foresters Arms. Their menu includes a special Mouille Point Iced Tea. key 86) has a great view. Close competition can be found at Andiamo (Cape Quarter. Buena Vista Social Café in Green Point (81 Main Road) makes good margaritas and for a good mojito. drive out to Cellars-Hohenhort in Constantia (93 Brommersvlei Road) for their champagne cocktails. the Wakame Sapphire and a Frozen Strawberry Margarita. looking west over Mouille Point. and Wakame (cnr Beach Road and Surrey Place) in Mouille Point. If you’re looking for a cocktail with a difference. has been pulling the cocktail crowd for years now. Victoria Road) makes a great watermelon martini and Beluga in Green Point (Prestwich Street) has sushi specials and good cocktails to boot. generally known just as ‘Forries’ (52 Newlands Avenue). Ignite (Promenade. This is thanks both to the great location and the excellent cocktail menu at Tobago’s Bar & Terrace – you won’t easily find a better Cosmopolitan.C O C K TA I L BA R S H A N G I N G O U T 167 Cocktail bars Many places offer cocktails in Cape Town. The Twelve Apostles Hotel serves a Fynbos Martini … KEY 86 Above: Wakame (front map. but the next time it’s another barman making your drink and suddenly the recipe seems to have been lost. At Camps Bay. situated at a private marina in Granger Bay just next to the V&A Waterfront. De Waterkant). .
twooceanssportfishing. The yellowfin tuna caught here can weigh up to 80 kg. boats have to travel for about three hours. Pulling up the nets later is where the real fun – and exercise – begins. kabeljou. shark (on a catch and release basis) or even marlin. Hooked on Africa will combine experiences for you. skate and elf. which means there might be crayfish for lunch on board. Hooked on Africa on 021 790 5332 and www. To get to these tuna-rich waters. Quotas and size restrictions are strictly observed. Offshore fly-fishing is also offered. David Christie from Two Oceans Sport Fishing is the pro when it comes to this – his record is a 76-kg yellowfin tuna caught on fly tackle! Christie is a qualified marine biologist and his trips are also geared towards viewing pelagic birds. white steenbras. Above: Crayfish trips with Cape Sea Safaris depart from Hout Bay harbour (back map. Two Oceans Sport Fishing on 082 460 8280 at www. but if you’re looking for something the whole family can easily participate in. put a weight in and throw the net overboard.168 FISHING THE SEA KEY 87 Sea fishing The coastline and adjoining oceans around Cape Town offer something for every saltwater fishing enthusiast. You will head out from Hout Bay harbour with a registered skipper and experienced crayfishermen or crayfisherwomen will show you how it works: simply ‘bait’ a net with something like pilchard heads. while the longfin are generally around 20 kg.hookedonafrica.za. If you want to head straight for the big guys in the deep sea such as longfin and yellowfin tuna.com . Cape Sea Safaris also offers inshore fishing and spear fishing.capeseasafaris. Detail: Cape Sea Safaris on www. key 87). then Cape Sea Safaris can help you out. The varied coastline also offers many shore-based fishing opportunities. Species you can look out for include galjoen.com. so it is a full day trip. offering crayfishing and other fishing on the same day. Cape snoek. sign up for crayfishing. dorado.co.
the Kom was made into a giant fish trap by the inhabitants of this stretch of coastline. various waders and four types of cormorant – the crowned. with only a handful of shops and restaurants. Slangkop lighthouse on 021 783 1717. KEY 88 Above: The small town of Kommetjie (back map.KO M M E T J I E S E A S I D E TOW N 169 Kommetjie Kommetjie is a small coastal town situated on the western side of the peninsula. locals set out from the slipway in all manner of craft to try their luck with crayfish traps out at sea. you might be invited to join one of them. terns. . The stretch of rocky shoreline between the slipway and the Slangkop lighthouse is regarded as one of the best places for land-based seabird viewing. Cape. Detail: Cape Fisher Tours on 083 403 9881. white-breasted and bank cormorant. Join them on a walking tour and then enjoy some of Cheryl’s traditional recipes at their home restaurant. with the Slangkop Lighthouse prominent. Cheryl and Melshaw Wyngaard (Cape Fisher Tours) offer tourists the unique opportunity to meet people who make a living from the ocean. During crayfish season. During the Stone Age. The slender white Slangkop lighthouse (at the end of Lighthouse Road) has been a landmark in the town since it became operational in 1919. Ocean View is a fishing community just outside Kommetjie. but sheltered natural harbour in front of the slipway. Often skippers have extra permits and are short of a few hands. The Kom. Be on the lookout for black oystercatchers. It was originally part of a farm called Imhoff ’s Gift (see key 95) and was proclaimed a town in 1903. At 33 metres. is the small. It is mostly a quiet residential town. key 88) as seen from the sea. it is the tallest cast-iron lighthouse in the country. which means ‘bowl’ and hence gives the town its name Kommetjie (little bowl). so if you hang around and speak to the right people.
eyeliner and colourful legs. key 89) you might even encounter great white pelicans right in the road.za. Around the fountain in Adderley Street.170 BIRDING NATURE KEY 89 Birding Like all South African cities. Even though fynbos does not support a large variety of birds.birdwatch. Paarl. on patrol between the Table and Lion’s Head. The African penguin colony at Boulders (key 59) offers unrivalled land-based viewing of the bird. you stand a very good chance of encountering some of the endemic species – such as the Cape sugarbird and the orange-breasted sunbird – if you venture into the mountains. BirdWatch Cape are agents who can set up your trip.co. and the Hottentots Holland mountains for endemics like Victorin’s warbler and Cape siskin. For the serious birdwatcher. About 50 kilometres offshore lies the continental shelf and here you can see birds such as albatross (black-browed. shy and yellow-nosed). There are half-day trips to the Cape Flats wetlands such as Rondevlei. . subantarctic skua and sooty shearwater. www.co. Albatrosses are more commonly seen during winter. petrel (giant and white-chinned). Hartlaub’s gulls and feral pigeons flock in large numbers. Detail: BirdWatch Cape on 072 635 1501 and www. If you know what to look for.za is an excellent resource for keen birdwatchers. Cape Town is filled with birds. A shorebird highlight is the African black oystercatcher. Above: In Velddrif (back map. Their pelagic birding trips usually depart on Saturdays from Simon’s Town harbour. BirdWatch Cape also organise full-day trips as far as the West Coast National Park. The Company Gardens have ducks and De Waal Park hosts hadedas. you can sometimes even see the resident pair of Verreaux’s eagles (black eagles) gliding very high above the city bowl. with its bright orange beak. head out onto the ocean in search of pelagic birds. where you might see the bar-throated apalis in the mountain fynbos.sabirding. For a real birding spectacle.
Whenever they are around and you are in your car. The Tokai troop is led by a baboon named John Travolta. a walk with Baboon Matters is a must. such as is common in the Cape Point Nature Reserve. Baboon Matters is part of a management plan to try to limit clashes between humans and baboons. or simply the contents of a handbag.BA B O O N WA L K S NAT U R E 171 Walk with baboons Though they’re not as glamorous as chimpanzees or gorillas.org. Four of the eight main troops on the peninsula are watched daily by Baboon Monitors so that citizens can be warned when the troops are approaching residential areas. Established in part to gather funds for the protection of the peninsula’s last troops and to educate people about baboons. key 90) and leads guided tours to two of the peninsula’s resident baboon troops. the Chacma baboon troops that live on the Cape peninsula have in recent decades been cut off from the rest of the continent. or a well-stocked family kitchen. They share their habitat with humans and over the years they have become savvy to the delights held by a suburban dustbin. thanks to large-scale development and human settlement on the Cape Flats. nothing beats observing a troop of baboons in their natural environment. led by the alpha males Harry and Peter respectively.za ‘Nothing beats observing a troop of baboons in their natural environment. If you want to see these animals at close quarters in a responsible way.baboonmatters. the Da Gama and Kommetjie troops.’ . While plentiful across large parts of Africa. They can be dangerous and should not be approached. keep the windows closed. Baboon Matters walks with just two of these troops. KEY 90 Above: Baboon Matters is based in Glencairn (back map. Detail: 021 782 2015 and www. Suffice to say that you should never feed the baboons.
It houses 23 different species. This is in part because the N2 runs through their worst parts – it’s all shopping centres. the pace of life is slower out here. polo and regular art evenings. one could say (the towns are also popular amongst retirees). Photos: Gordon’s Bay (back map. Lunch at the Oak Tree Restaurant and snoop around in the art gallery. cheese shop or coffee shop. Gordon’s Bay. in permanent recline. Despite this. the stunning coastal road to Rooiels. There is a good primate park. Monkey Town. When you reach the R44 off-ramp off the N2. Strand (or. Somerset West & Strand If you’re heading out on the N2. don’t forget that there are a few worthy destinations lying at the foot of the pass. you can either turn left to Somerset West or right to Strand. there is a sign). You can easily turn a visit to Lourensford into a day trip. as it’s often called. ‘the Strand’) and Somerset West are a pretty trio of towns which don’t get the dues they deserve. It is privately owned and the more than 200 animals are looked after very well. lemurs and Hamadryas baboons. key 92). . It can be reached via Clarence Drive (back map. The estate is also a popular venue for events such as the Cape Town Flower & Garden Show. Kogel Bay (next double spread) is a popular surfing spot and also has a camping area. past the airport and aiming for the mountains where Sir Lowry’s Pass will take you to the Overberg and beyond. SOMERSET WEST & ST R A N D DAY T R I P KEY 91 Gordon’s Bay. Following Lourensford Road through Somerset West will bring you to the beautiful Lourensford Estate. cycle races. building supplies. between Somerset West and Gordon’s Bay (turn left off the N2.172 GORDON’S BAY. key 91) has gentle bathing conditions and is just a 40 minute drive from Cape Town. spread around the base of the Helderberg mountain. car dealerships and one annoying traffic light after the other. including chimpanzees. Somerset West is a beautiful residential town which lies inland.
an old house filled with so many books that you can hardly see the walls! A good place to eat is Harbour Lights. Detail: Lourensford Estate on 021 847 2200 and www. meaning it’s a very safe beach at which to swim – it’s clean and run on good environmental principles. . drive along Clarence Drive to Rooiels (key 92). Monkey Town on 021 858 1060 and www. Gordon’s Bay has a beautiful little harbour and the pride and joy of the area is Bikini Beach. This beach has been awarded Blue Flag status. Today it is a popular holiday town.za. The town itself was named after Captain Robert Gordon who. thanks to the safe swimming beach at Melkbaai. in permanent recline.monkeys. under the steep slopes of the Hottentots Holland range.gordonsbaytourism. If you have time. but it proved such a dynamic place that it became its own municipality by 1896. Gordon’s Bay info on www.’ Strand was supposed to be a suburb of Somerset West (its original name was Somerset Strand). one could say.com. What appears to be an abbreviation of the town’s name can be seen on one of the slopes.com. situated in the Old Harbour and there are a couple of places where you can buy an ice-cream cone. There is also a tidal pool and a heated. despite his English name.somersetwest.co. Somerset West and Strand information on www. because the navy training college situated here used to be named after the general. Harbour Lights on 021 856 1830. Gordon’s Bay lies flush in the corner of False Bay.com. worked for the Dutch East India Company.173 ‘The pace of life is slower out here. Make sure you go into the Bikini Beach Bookshop.lourensford. indoor Olympic-sized swimming pool which is often used for big school meets and provincial competitions. but it originally stood for General Botha.
0174 KEY 93 Rooiels Drive Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
0175 pull quote .
Detail: Rooiels literally means ‘red alder’. The slopes are steep and once in a while a rock does roll down here. lingering look at the peninsula across the bay before continuing on to Betty’s Bay or Hermanus. Just out of sight over the top of the mountains lies the Steenbras Dam. Above: Clarence Drive (back map. Unlike Chapman’s Peak. key 92) has gentle curves. There is a little campsite here which traditionally gets flooded by picnickers on New Year’s Day. one of Cape Town’s water suppliers. whose vision helped to make it a reality. Rooiels lies at a pretty river mouth. It is officially called Clarence Drive after Jack Clarence. this is not a toll road and there are no precarious cliffs looming above you. This not so secret stretch of tar is the R44 between Gordon’s Bay and the small seaside hamlet of Rooiels. but most just talk of ‘the Rooiels Drive’. but also a few sharp ones which have to be negotiated with care. Stay over: Kogelbaai Campsite 021 856 1286. From here the road is less scenic because you won’t see the ocean anymore. because these items used to be carved from its wood. which lies on the right if you’re heading southwards.176 ROOIEL S SCENIC DRIVE KEY 92 Scenic drive to Rooiels Chapman’s Peak might be the Cape’s most famous scenic drive. . The wall of mountain on your left is part of the Hottentots Holland range. The beach isn’t good for swimming. The tree is known as the butterspoon or butterknife tree. the road will have already climbed to a height of a hundred metres or so above the sea (False Bay). but the drive is generally very safe. but turn in at Pringle Bay for a final. has better places at which to stop and is. but it is a popular surfing spot. more scenic. Once over the bridge. you can either turn right into Rooiels or follow the road as it swings inland. but there’s a drive that is longer (18 km). Eventually a bay – Kogel Bay – will open up before you as the road drops down almost to sea level. arguably. As you leave Gordon’s Bay.
Malaysia and the Philippines – up to 800 pupae are flown in weekly to keep the greenhouse awash with colour and variety.za . there’s also an aviary. but have gone to only if they live in the area or have kids. because young children really are enchanted by the spectacle offered in the 1 000 square metres of greenhouse at Butterfly World. on your left before you reach Klapmuts.butterflyworld. there are plenty of other creatures to enjoy. The Martin Filmer Spider Room has a wide range of creepies – spiders and scorpions – safely behind the glass of terraria if this happens to be a phobia of yours. In the lush garden. In fact. key 93) is open every day except Christmas. it is just 300 metres to the south. It gets very hot in the greenhouse. But it’s not just kids’ stuff! If you’re an ardent photographer. from 9 am to 5 pm. take the N1 towards Paarl. The sanctuary’s tropical butterflies are from countries like Costa Rica. The iguanas also love the sun. but on chilly days when they are not flitting about. 021 875 5628 and www. To get there. then Exit 47 to Klapmuts.co. and they’re fascinating to observe whether they’re sitting dead still or not (they’re a stinky lot too). this is the perfect opportunity to take macro close-ups of butterflies which are often hard to photograph in the wild. a meerkat enclosure and all manner of farm animals such as chickens and goats strutting around like they own the place. KEY 93 Detail: Butterfly World (back map. They are not very skittish in the greenhouse as they have no predators here. The butterflies are more active when it’s sunny. so make sure you take a bottle of water in with you. those with kids will tell you it’s somewhere they return to often. Once on the R44.F O R K I D S B U T T E R F LY WO R L D 177 Butterfly World This is one of those Cape attractions that most locals know exist. China.
when Portuguese explorer Bartholomew Dias and his crew were flung around it during a violent storm. Hout Bay and the Atlantic seaboard in time to stop at the Twelve Apostles Hotel for a sundowner. hundreds of kilometres further east. After minding its own business for millennia. Cape Point is the southernmost section of the Table Mountain National Park and the second-most visited attraction in Cape Town after the V&A Waterfront. But don’t get caught up in your scenic drive. which they then named the Cape of Good Hope. giving you the chance to take in the scenic drive of Chapman’s Peak (see key 53). for Cape Point is not a quick in-and-out destination. Fish Hoek and Simon’s Town – and up the western side later in the afternoon upon your return. . They turned north and only saw land again near Mossel Bay. then the second day would be well spent on a trip down to Cape Point. They never saw Cape Point at the time as the storm took them far to the south. key 94). Photos: You can either walk up to the main view point or take a funicular at Cape Point (back map. and you will see places where you might want to return later on during your stay. the Cape of Good Hope entered into European seafaring history late in January 1488. If your first day was spent on Robben Island or taking the cable car up Table Mountain. This drive will give you a great idea of the lay of the land. Because his crew became mutinous. Dias turned back to Europe and finally saw the great cape. Ideally you would drive down the eastern side of the peninsula on your way there – via Muizenberg. The Cape of Good Hope (inset) is near Cape Point.178 CAPE POINT SCENERY KEY 94 Cape Point A visit to Cape Point is compulsory if your stay in Cape Town is anything longer than one day.
The old lighthouse at the viewpoint is scarred with graffiti which actually makes for some interesting reading and gives you an idea of the multitude of tourists who have stood at that very point.’ The first part of a visit to modern-day Cape Point involves a leisurely drive along a narrow tar road through stunning fynbos. the Cape of Good Hope is the promontory that sticks into the ocean to your right as you face Cape Point from the lookout point. there are gift shops.capepoint. including free entry and free funicular rides. The lighthouse down below is the most powerful on the South African coastline and can be seen from 63 kilometres away. Funicular tickets are quite expensive. What ocean are you looking at? Well. the Atlantic Ocean. or don’t want to. . Detail: 021 780 9010 and www. the Flying Dutchman funicular. But the view is what you came for. bontebok and eland can be seen. Be sure to keep to the speed limit. so rather tackle the steps if you can. which flows northwards up the west coast of southern Africa.co. At the car park at Cape Point.za For the record: Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope are almost the same place. there are often specials for children. will carry you up at a slow but steady pace. Cape Point is where the lighthouse is. During winter holidays. although no swim in False Bay will ever quite be warm. climb the steps up to the viewpoint. You’ll easily hear five different languages being spoken while you’re up there. Game such as baboon. named after a famous Cape ghost ship. If you cannot.179 ‘You’ll easily hear five different languages being spoken while you’re up there. but between here and Cape Agulhas the cold water of the Benguela current. which is what made its discovery back in 1488 so important. but not quite. starts meeting the last warmish dregs of the Agulhas current from the Indian Ocean. and down below lies that theoretical meetingpoint of East and West. as animals can appear out of nowhere. a snack shop and the Two Oceans Restaurant.
0180 KEY 95 Cape Point Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
0181 pull quote .
Imhoff Farm! There will be trouble if you drive past Imhoff Farm with a car full of kids. of which there are many. especially if they find out later what delights they have missed out on. key 95) is open seven days a week from 9 am to 5 pm. Imhoff ’s Gift was large: it included the land where the seaside town of Kommetjie and the fishing community of Ocean View stand today. Ocean View is a classic example. Imhoff ’s Farm is for all. as Imhoff is one of the closest places to the city where one can feel as if you’re nowhere near it. Glencairn and Simon’s Town. The farm lies on a piece of land called Imhoff ’s Gift. Zwaansweide. just before Kommetjie as you approach it from the Fish Hoek side. It is one of the best destinations for young children on the peninsula. with its laidback atmosphere and several contained activities in which to participate within its grounds.182 FOR KIDS IMHOFF FARM KEY 95 Imhoff Farm Ah. . The name holds some interesting history: the land was granted to a farmer called Christina Rousseau in 1743 by Commissioner Extraordinaire Baron van Imhoff as reward for her service to the Dutch East India Company. she had been supplying produce to ships at anchor in Simon’s Town. of a neighbourhood created by apartheid laws. From her other farm. There is a snake and reptile rehabilitation centre where exotic species such as iguanas Photos: Imhoff Farm (back map. The land was expropriated in 1967 under the infamous Group Areas Act to facilitate the removal of coloured people from the nearby towns of Noordhoek. Over weekends it gets very busy and most of the visitors will be locals. Thankfully.
hug a bunny.co.za and www. Detail: Info on 021 783 4545 and www. horse rides on 082 774 1191. Precious Cargo has hand-painted T-shirts and wooden signs and Dried & Fired is a ceramic art gallery combined with a dried fruit shop. tickle a chicken.co.naturefarm.183 ‘At the petting farm you can feed the sheep. of course. horse rides to the beach and even camel rides on three gentlemen called Izak. . Wodens Hold Bookshop specialises in books on mythology and folklore. Two other good places to snoop around for unique gifts are Faith (organic handmade clothing) and Madam Jambon (décor pieces and jewellery). Imhoff Farm can be a destination on its own – you can easily while away a whole day here – but many use it as halfway stop to or from Cape Point. It is also within easy striking distance of other seaside towns such as Scarborough. the nearby surfing capital of Kommetjie. They also offer face painting. The Blue Water Café is a fine place to eat (try their wood-fired pizzas). If you want to buy a lasting gift for your hosts. Ligman and Barak. and Body Stress Release will massage the last bit of tension from your shoulders. Fish Hoek. tickle a chicken and get up close and personal with the cutest little piglets. Magic Bakes is a great little bakery and Imhoff Cheese sells organically produced cheeses.imhofffarm. At the petting farm you can feed the sheep. camel rides on 021 789 1711. but everything is affordable. Little Piece of Africa stocks African sulptures. for fresh produce see key 39).’ and Gila monsters are kept. The Imhoff Farmer’s Market takes place on the first Saturday morning of every month (for other markets see key 40. hug a bunny. The arts and crafts on sale vary widely. Noordhoek and. The Farmyard on 021 783 3412.za... pop into the nursery and buy an indigenous shrub or tree.
Cape Point Ostrich Farm on 021 780 9294 and www.co. South Africa’s prime ostrich farms are in the Little Karoo around the town of Oudtshoorn.co. . But visitors to Cape Town can see these beautiful birds just 30 minutes from the city centre at the West Coast Ostrich Farm. Above: One of the almost 220 ostriches on the West Coast Ostrich Farm (back map. Finally. You can see how eggs are painted and how ostrich leather is made into fashionable handbags. which depicts different aspects of the birds and ostrich farming. wallets and belts.za.capepointostrichfarm. key 96). There are guided tours every half an hour which take you through the compact but very representative visitors’ section. but you will be amazed at how strong the eggs are. A variety of ostriches (black-neck. shoes. At the height of the ostrich feather boom in the 1800s.za Fact: An ostrich egg is equal to about two dozen normal chicken eggs. First you will be taken through the very well laid-out display room. you can get a picture taken of yourself on top of an ostrich with Table Mountain in the background. There is another farm on the southern peninsula. ostrich feathers were the fourth largest export after gold. the Cape Point Ostrich Farm. diamonds and wool. Then you will get the chance to stand on an ostrich egg – which sounds like courting disaster.ostrichranch. but it’s really safe to do and steps are brought right up to the bird which makes mounting and dismounting easy enough. There is also ostrich on the menu in the restaurant if you have been wondering all along whether they taste like chicken or not. Detail: West Coast Ostrich Farm on 021 972 1955 and www. white and dwarf ) as well as rheas and emus are present in the camps.184 OSTRIC H FARM DAY TRIP KEY 96 Visit an ostrich farm Traditionally. enabling you to compare the sizes of the different birds. To your friends back home it will look as if you were ‘riding’ an ostrich.
with thousands of children coming here every year to forage for their favourite gemstones on this modern-day midden of joy. jasper.co. amethyst and rose quartz. The gem ‘factory’. Brazil and Madagascar. The gemstones are polished smooth through a process known as tumble-polishing. ‘It’s a multicoloured mixed bag of stones. Look out for southern African ‘specials’ like tiger’s eye. ornaments and carvings made from many of the stones are on sale. or a larger container at a higher price. the Mineral World Scratch Patch is a Cape Town institution. sand and iron filings may be added to aid the process and it can sometimes take weeks before a stone is beautifully smooth. covering the floor like a fantasy beach.scratchpatch. Topstones. which basically means that the stones are put in a large tumbler and are slowly polished smooth by bumping and grinding against one another. To scratch in the Scratch Patch. so you are buying straight from the wholesale dealer. It’s a multicoloured mixed bag of stones. key 97) is a paradise for children. Alaska. you need to purchase a small plastic bag. You have carte blanche on the gemstone dancefloor until your bag is full. Look carefully.za . Materials like sawdust. covering the floor like a fantasy beach. Topstones polishes more than 150 varieties of stone from across the globe – Siberia. which ensures very good prices.F O R K I D S S C R ATC H PATC H 185 Scratch Patch Established in Simon’s Town in 1970. You can pick up any stones you like! Jewellery. KEY 97 Above: Scratch Patch (back map. is based at the Simon’s Town branch of Scratch Patch (there is another at the V&A Waterfront). which has a beautiful honeygolden shimmer. you may even find blue lace agate.’ Detail: Mineral World Scratch Patch on 021 786 2020 and www.
but in 1820 it was converted to a double-storey mosque. The first Imam here was Abdullah Kadi Abdus Salaam. staged its first protest action for access to HIV medicines on the pavement in front of the building. . making it the second oldest in the city. South Africa’s most important civil society group. Archbishop Desmond Tutu delivered several famous sermons here. The window sills on ground level are particularly low down – this is due to the slow but sure ‘rise’ of Long Street over the past two centuries. better known as Tuan Guru. key 98. Opposite: A view over the city from near the Moravian Church (front map. Established in 1798. who was a teacher of Shafi (Shafee). key 98. It played an important role in the anti-apartheid struggle and took the side of the oppressed against the apartheid government. Above: The Al-Azhar Mosque (front map.1) in Zonnebloem. Because Shafi was taught here. Protestors often sought refuge from riot police in the church when protests outside had turned violent. 90% of the Bo-Kaap’s Muslims today are Shafi. one of Sunni Islam’s four schools of religious law. ST GEORGE’S CATHEDRAL St George’s Cathedral (Wale Street) is perhaps the best-known church in Cape Town. The small Palm Tree Mosque in Long Street (185 Long Street) used to be a singlestorey dwelling. the mosque is still in use today. and the Treatment Action Campaign (TAC).2) is situated just off Keizersgracht Street in Zonnebloem (the new name for the old District Six).186 RELIGION PL ACES OF WORSHIP KEY 98 Places of worship MOSQUES OF THE CITY The oldest mosque in the city is the Auwal Mosque (34 Dorp Street) in the Bo-Kaap.
org. Hyman Liberman. The synagogue’s vast interior and beautiful dome and arches attract worshippers from across the city.stgeorgescathedral. the Gitlin Library. and Friday night services are frequently attended by up to 700 people. THE GARDENS SYNAGOGUE Situated in the grounds of the South African Jewish Museum (key 18). The building has been enlarged a couple of times since. replacing the old one dating from 1863. and was completed in 1704.com for services.co. It is part of a complex which includes the South African Jewish Museum (see key 18).bokaap. Its highlight is the pulpit carved by Anton Anreith. and Dutch wood carver.gardensshul. the Gardens Shul was built in 1905. who was involved in many of the big building projects at the Cape at the time.grootekerk. St George’s Cathedral on 021 689 5235 (for bell-ringing) and www. In 1905.org .’ GROOTE KERK This housed the first Dutch Reformed (Nederduits Gereformeerde) congregation in South Africa. Groote Kerk on www.za. who was also the president of the congregation. Cape Town had its first Jewish mayor. The church has a lively Congregation Centre in Kloof Street (55 Kloof Street) where there is a gift and coffee shop. It is also the oldest church building in the country. Jan Jacob Greeff. Gardens Shul on 021 465 1405 and www. the Holocaust Centre and a café. Building at the current site of the Groote Kerk (Spin Street) began in 1678. Detail: Information on city mosques on www.za. The shul regularly plays host to religious talks and musical concerts.187 ‘Archbishop Desmond Tutu delivered several famous sermons here.
an evening spent at the Kalk Bay Theatre (52 Main Road. so it’s a good idea to be there by 7 pm to enjoy a leisurely meal. comfortable seats. key 99). The food is outstanding and there are usually two set menus. with good vegetarian options. the theatre is in the old Dutch Reformed Church. then go downstairs for quality theatre.kbt. Above: At Kalk Bay Theatre (back map. an improvisational experience where the audience helps to shape the action by telling the actors what to do with hilarious consequences. Kalk Bay) is one of the best nights out in Cape Town. you look down into the box-like theatre. Detail: Bookings are essential. dial 073 220 5430. shows begin late enough in order for you to depart the city bowl after rush-hour traffic and arrive on time for the dinner before the show. It is about a 40-minute drive to Kalk Bay from the city centre. While it is quite a drive to get there if you’re staying in Cape Town. Situated in the Main Road of Kalk Bay.co. On Tuesday nights. Other shows run from Wednesdays to Saturdays (sometimes Sundays). stand-up comedy and music. Shows usually begin at 8. The shows put on at Kalk Bay Theatre vary from strong independent theatre (look for work by Rob van Vuuren. the theatre also hosts the legendary Theatresports. built in 1876. line-up on www.188 KALK BAY THEATRE SPECIAL NIGHT O U T KEY 99 Kalk Bay Theatre For those in search of something different.za . which is an intimate 78-seater with large. Tim Redpath or the From the Hip: Khulumakahle collective). The building has been cleverly converted to accommodate the restaurant on the top floor and the theatre on the bottom floor. dessert and coffee is served upstairs in the restaurant again. and runs vary from a week to a month or even longer. you first enjoy a delicious meal.30 pm. After the show. From the restaurant.
If you’ve lost a whack at the tables. Cape Town has a church: GrandWest Casino. as well as a tenpin bowling alley. poker or roulette. why not combine it with a scenic drive through the Overberg to the small town of Caledon. KEY 100 Detail: GrandWest Casino (above) is at 1 Vanguard Drive (back map. with the Counting Crows. Spa & Casino is situated. . Joe Jackson and Chris Rock being some of the more recent performers. Over 2 500 slot machines. whether a humble 5c coin or a ‘buffalo’ (a R100 note). are waiting to accept your money. hoping there will be more penguins around the corner. The Golden Valley Casino on 023 348 7200. local and international. Spa & Casino on 028 214 5100.E N T E R TA I N M E N T CA S I N O S 189 Casinos Either your eyes will light up when you see this page or you will page right on. from the Hollywood Slots to King Kong. The Caledon Hotel. The Golden Valley Casino at Worcester is about the same distance. Tyger Valley centre in Bellville on 021 914 8217. If you would rather have your casino experience far away from the rush of the city. When you start getting tennis-elbow you can rush over to one of the 68 gaming tables to play any variety of blackjack. If you’re not into gambling. There are also movie theatres and a variety of restaurants. where the Caledon Hotel. N1 City in Goodwood on 021 595 2100. the Grand Arena is one of the premier venues for big touring acts. you can always head for the Spa & Wellness Centre for a bit of TLC and soft crying into a towel. Caledon is about one-and-a-half hours out of Cape Town on the N2. but on the N1 via the Huguenot Tunnel. But for those who are converts. More tenpin bowling: Great Escape in Canal Walk shopping centre on 021 551 4830. Stadium on Main in Claremont on 021 671 1893. There is plenty for families to do. key 100) and 021 505 7777. The only ice-skating rink in the Cape is situated here.
Silvermine can be reached by following Ou Kaapse Weg (M64) from the Cape Town side towards Kommetjie. Oudekraal is right on the sea. fish (especially snoek wrapped in foil). Follow Upper Buitenkant towards the mountain. then Highlands Avenue and then Deer Park Drive to its very end. Newlands Forest and the Tokai plantation. sosaties (kebabs) and boerewors (traditional sausage) are the meats of choice. In the city bowl.org. sweet potatoes and butternut work best. A sign will indicate a right turn at the top of the pass. it comes down to making a fire. Most supermarkets stock everything you need: a grill (see key 60 for the mother of all braai stores). Van Riebeeck Park is a good place in which to braai. but chicken.sanparks. key 101) is situated off Victoria Road between Camps Bay and Llandudno. Detail: Table Mountain National Park on www. Try Silvermine and Oudekraal. although it is obviously restricted in most areas because of the fire hazard. potatoes. At its most basic. Lamb chops. and beef steaks are also popular. wood (charcoal briquettes are also popular) and meat and vegetables. Vegetables are usually wrapped in foil and put directly onto the coals – onions. waiting for the coals to be ready and then cooking some meat over the coals using a grill.190 BR A AI THE BEST PL ACES KEY 101 The best braai spots The braai (barbecue) is a bit of a national obsession. Above: Oudekraal (back map. There are a few scenic places within the Table Mountain National Park where braaiing is permitted.za . Remember to ensure that your fire is extinguished when you leave. with everyone believing that only they know how to do it properly. with the best possible sunset perches and a tiny sheltered beach. Other sites in the park include Buffels Bay (near Cape Point).
Bain’s Kloof Pass is named after one of South Africa’s most famous pass builders. The small settlement at the top of the pass has an antique store with great secondhand books. Past the settlement. but with a good road map it shouldn’t be a problem. for there’s another great pass to traverse – Michell’s Pass. those in search of a different experience. so hiking permits are needed if you want to venture to the river or onto the trails. keep going towards Ceres. Limietberg Nature Reserve. There are braai and camping sites at Tweede Tol (Second Toll) and if you overshoot it. Aim for the town of Wellington by whichever means and from there take the R303 towards Ceres. who built this pass with the help of a team of convicts in 1853. a towel.org. While the mountains here harbour some of the remaining Cape leopards. towards Ceres. the 16-kilometre-long pass just gets prettier. a book and a friend and head down to the clear waters of the Witte River for a day of blissed-out relaxation – chances are the only sounds you’ll hear above the burble of the stream will be the odd agitated bark of a moody baboon somewhere in the cliffs above. so you can picnic in peace.bainskloof. key 102).BA I N ’ S K LO O F PA S S DAY T R I P 191 Bain’s Kloof Pass Bain’s Kloof is the destination for discerning travellers. Cape Nature at www.capenature. The surrounding mountains and fynbos are part of a Cape Nature conservation area. Detail: To rent a house in the village call 021 873 5620.za and 021 864 1159. Linda’s Kitchen. Andrew Geddes Bain.co. It’s a potentially confusing hour-and-a-half drive to the top of Bain’s Kloof.za and 021 426 0723 (information) or 021 659 3500 (hiking permits). your chances of encountering them are virtually zero. There is accommodation at Corner Lodge (backpacker style and double rooms) and there is a restaurant. KEY 102 Above: The Witte River at Bain’s Kloof Pass (back map. . Pack a picnic basket. Corner Lodge at www.
. They also have a comprehensive online catalogue. where very rare books are kept. key 103. In Observatory. a vibrant periodical about current African issues. Cape Town has everything from big chain stores to small specialist shops stocking collectables. Also in Long Street are Tommy’s Books (130 Long Street). try Margie Orford’s Like Clockwork. CAFDA (18 Regent Street) is a charity book shop of the Cape Flats Development Association in Sea Point where you can practically disappear for a whole day. look for back copies of Chimurenga. Mike Nicol’s Payback and Deon Meyer’s Devil’s Peak. Ask permission to enter the Africana room. National Geographics and children’s books.2) has helped to put the previously neglected Roeland Street area back on the map. Above: Clarke’s Bookshop (front map key 103. Downstairs. which captures the artistic heart and transmutating soul of the suburb and the city around it in the mid 1990s.1) specialises in art books which are difficult to find elsewhere. Opposite: The Book Lounge (front map. there is Obz Books (76 Lower Main Road) and here you might find a copy of Ashraf Jamal’s seminal novel Love Themes for the Wilderness. The Book Lounge (cnr Roeland and Buitenkant streets) is a vibrant shop that stocks choice international titles. For crime novels set in Cape Town. travel books and more. It’s a treasure trove of old novels. Clarke’s Bookshop (211 Long Street) has been around since 1956 and scratching around this quaint old two-storey shop is an adventure which could easily take up a whole morning. On Saturday mornings the kids can enjoy a children’s story hour in the basement area. The Book Lounge has managed to create a strong reading community around it within a very short time. Serendipity (198 Long Street) and Select Books (223 Long Street). Buckingham Palace – District Six.192 BOOKSHOPS HANDPICKED KEY 103 The best bookshops For those who love books.
za .za.co. Also check out Patricia Schonstein’s Skyline.’ written by an author born in this iconic neighbourhood.book. races through Cape Town’s hipster scene at an apocalyptic pace. Finuala Dowling.co. launches and signings. both Exclusive Books and Wordsworth have branches in the major and smaller shopping centres – both have flagship stores in the V&A Waterfront (with coffee shops in which to relax and start that first chapter). Quagga Books (84–96 Main Road. Moxyland. is another author to look out for if you are interested in the nuances of the city. A is for Apple on 021 447 6809. As far as the bigger chains go.kalkbaybooks.za. Mike Nicol.za. Just down the road is Kalk Bay Books (124 Main Road) which hosts regular talks by acclaimed local writers such as Damon Galgut. and features top Afrikaans authors like Tom Dreyer. set in the heart of the city. In Stellenbosch. Clarke’s Bookshop on 021 423 5739 and www. Kalk Bay) specialises in rare and collectors’ editions. The Boekhuis also hosts regular debates.readersden.za. Quagga on 021 788 2752 and www. Tom Eaton and singer-songwriter-poet Robin Auld. Main Road.quaggabooks. The Readers Den Comic Shop (Stadium on Main. Michiel Heyns. Richard Rive.proteaboekhuis. The best kids’ book store in town is A is for Apple (16b Kloof Nek Road). Detail: The Book Lounge on 021 462 2425. Claremont) stocks international and local comics and graphic novels – ask for local artist Joe Daly’s Scrublands or the Bitterkomix and Stripshow collections. Etienne van Heerden and Koos Kombuis.clarkesbooks.co. CAFDA on 021 434 6149.co.193 ‘The Book Lounge has managed to create a strong reading community around it.za.co. A recent book by Lauren Beukes. Protea Boekhuis (Andringa Street) is as comprehensive as it gets.co. Protea Boekhuis on 021 882 9100 and www. Readers Den on 021 671 9551 and www. Kalk Bay Books on 021 788 2266 and www. A good resource for information on launches and readings: www. where the kids can let themselves go and draw on the tables while the parents sip coffee on the side and recuperate.
and kloofing (aka canyoning) involves traversing a kloof from top to bottom. kitesurfing. jumping over rocks. If you don’t want to go on the organised tours. while the mountain biking is split into three cycling tours: Cape Point and the Winelands (a full day. very mellow pedalling). or hurtled down a mountain path on a wing.1) on the West Coast. or skidded across the ocean at 80 km/h courtesy of a powerful kite. key 104. clambering a bit here and there. guided hikes and kloofing.194 EXTREME SPORTS KEY 104 Extreme sports If a holiday is just not a holiday if you haven’t jumped from a plane. What’s kloofing? Well. professional manner. which offer pick-ups in the city bowl. abseiling. Downhill Adventures can also help to facilitate tandem skydiving.2) with Camps Bay far below. then you can just hire a bike and set off on your own. paragliding. Table Mountain descent (dirt tracks. The Cape Peninsula plays host to an array of adventure sports. but they drop you off at the top!) and Tokai forest (a high level of fitness required). jumping into pools and so forth. Above: Sandboarding at Atlantis (back map. then you have no need to worry. a ‘kloof ’ is a small river gorge or ravine. The Downhill Adventures surfing school is designed to teach even those with two left feet how to stand on a surfboard by the end of the day. with operators big and small waiting to assist you in a safe. key 104. a prayer and a set of good bike shocks. . The sandboarding happens on the white dunes near Atlantis up the West Coast and sometimes near Betty’s Bay. quad biking. mountain biking and surfing for anyone from beginners to those with more experience. Opposite: A paraglider hangs high after taking off from Lion’s Head (front map. swimming when required. One of the most prominent city outfits is Downhill Adventures who offer sandboarding.
which is a 35-kilometre race around the entire mountain. feet first. check out the website www. CW Detail: Downhill Adventures on 021 422 0388 and www. Cape Xtreme on 021 788 5814 and www. If you like running off-road. but the craziest of them all is the Crazy Store Table Mountain Challenge.195 ‘If a holiday is just not a holiday if you haven’t jumped from a plane .skydivecapetown. with the city a thousand metres below you.paraglide. The Three Peak Challenge is a unique event with an interesting history. so you’ll know if this is for you.downhilladventures.za . In 1897.. There are a variety of trail races all over South Africa.com.’ The most legendary place in which to go kloofing is Suicide Gorge. for example. Cape Xtreme offers even more variety. This race usually takes place in September. where there are jumps ranging between three and 15 metres. a ride in a real single-seater racing car at Killarney race track! Both Cape Xtreme and Downhill Adventures offer longer adventure trips (up to 13 days) down the Garden Route (which includes the world’s highest commercial bungee jump – a mad 216 metres). Crazy Store Table Mountain Challenge on 021 424 4760. Be advised not to go kloofing alone or unguided – go with people who know the kloof and who will know where it’s safe to jump into pools and where not.co. Abseil Africa specialises in all things mountainous.co.trailrunning. From the top of Table Mountain. Port Elizabeth and Durban (SA’s surf capital).za to see where others enjoy taking on the wild. popular with several operators.com.za. Cape Town Tandem Paragliding on 076 892 2283 and www..abseilafrica. Kloofing Suicide Gorge is the very opposite of spending a day in a coffee shop. Skydive Cape Town on 082 800 6290 and www.co. with jumps of up to 22 metres) to hiking to the summit of Table Mountain at Maclear’s Beacon. there is a 112-metre abseiling descent. from abseiling to kloofing (try Kamikaze Gorge.za.co.cape-xtreme. Three Peak Challenge on 021 790 0298. Abseil Africa on 021 424 4760 and www.
Sir Lowry’s Pass and Hermanus. and for sea kayaking see key 6. His paragliders generally launch from Lion’s Head. also starting from 108 Long Street.3) is a very popular mountain biking spot. depending on conditions. The view from up high in the Cessna is fantastic: the peninsula. Yes. a prayer and a set of good bike shocks …’ Above: Tokai Forest (back map. local hiker Don Hartley organised an event to celebrate Schneeberger’s climb. After climbing each peak. For shark cage diving see key 114. so maybe you’re not Robbie Williams and won’t be able to afford a helicopter . Opposite: Abseiling off Table Mountain (front map.196 EXTREME SPORTS ‘… down a mountain path on a wing. It’s probably also the best view you’ll get of the Koeberg nuclear power station. Flights last between ten and 30 minutes. Robben Island and the West Coast all laid out like the most brilliant map you could ever wish to own.4) with Sea Point and Robben Island visible in the background. A century later. Skydive Cape Town caters for novices as well as pros and you can jump tandem with an instructor. but also from Signal Hill. Skydive Cape Town offers jumps from just north of Melkbosstrand. he returned to the hotel for a break and some refreshment before setting off on his next climb. Cape Town Tandem Paragliding is the best for paragliding. key 104. Schneeberger set off from 108 Long Street (then home to Johannesburg Hotel) and climbed Devil’s Peak. retracing his routes. about 40 minutes from Cape Town. They operate any day the weather is good. Table Mountain and Lion’s Head in succession. key 104. Owner Manu Wegmershaus has all the experience in the world to ensure that your trip is something you will never forget. The Three Peak Challenge usually takes place in November.
NAC Makana Aviation offers four routes. such as the world’s only flying English Electric Lightnings and BAe Buccanneers. take a preventative tablet well in advance – your fellow passengers will appreciate it! CivAir flies Jetranger 3s and can arrange just about any conceivable trip for you. just in case you are. And what’s this about fighter jets? Yup.civair. Thundercity on 021 934 8007 and www. a Bell 206 Jet Ranger and a Bell 206L Long Ranger. but. Ever wanted to fly over a cricket field and see everyone hit the deck? This is your chance! Detail: CivAir 021 934 4488 and www. one of them an hour-long trip around the entire peninsula coastline via Cape Point and back to the V&A Waterfront.silvercross.thundercity. for a flight in a Huey – the helicopters made famous by the Vietnam War and many American movies. he returned to the hotel for a break.nacmakana. On offer are a Robinson R44. join the Huey Helicopter Co.197 ‘After climbing each peak. You can also charter flights to different wineland destinations. First things first: helicopter rides are fantastic. Huey Helicopter Co. on 021 419 4839 and www.za. but if you get motion sick in the air.co. NAC Makana on 021 425 3868 and www. Franschhoek (key 105). If you’re at all prone to motion sickness. Silvercross Helicopter Charters on 021 934 2556 and www. Thundercity (based at Cape Town International Airport) can make all your Top Gun dreams come true.com. Hermanus (key 113) and certain ‘Big Five’ game reserves (key 111).com. you’ll be happy to know that there are several charter companies who can give you a flip around the peninsula. Thundercity flies classic former war planes. If you want something more ‘combat’ than this. whether private charter to an exclusive destination or a quick scenic tour of the peninsula’s natural hightlights.za.thehueyhelicopterco. it will be a terrible experience.com .’ ride.co.
. Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants list several times now. This historic village is set in an idyllic valley of the same name. there are 35 other restaurants to choose from. when the end comes. It’s important to book in advance for any of these.198 FR ANSC HHOEK DAY TRIP KEY 105 Franschhoek Some say that. If that doesn’t fit your pocket or palate. Franschhoek currently has several festivals to attract visitors at different times of the year. Franschhoek will be the best place in which to sit it out. and the celebrated Reuben’s Restaurant and Bar (19 Huguenot Road). While most South African towns boast an annual town festival. key 105) has a fascinating collection of corkscrews. Haute Cabrière which is situated in a cellar. at the headwaters of the Berg River and is the destination of choice for those in search of fine dining. Pop in at The Old Corkscrew (11 Main Road) to see a vast collection of corkscrews and other antiques. In the past decade and a half. There are small franchises like the quality pizza franchise Col’ Cacchio (which you will also encounter in Cape Town). For a long time it was simply known as having been founded by French Huguenots – a monument honouring their arrival was unveiled here in 1948. the town has reinvented itself as the Gourmet Capital of South Africa with eight of the country’s Top 100 restaurants situated here. Some have even received global recognition: The Tasting Room at Le Quartier Français (16 Huguenot Road) has been named in the S. The French Huguenot Monument (opposite page) was designed by JC Jongens and the central female figure made by master sculptor Coert Steynberg. so that’s where you can eat the finest cuisine at a price to match. The Photos: The Old Corkscrew (above) in Franschhoek (back map. This wasn’t always the case.
was one of the first wine estates to be established here. while the Cap Classique and Champagne Festival in early December follows a similar theme: fine drinks and gourmet food. Franschhoek is perfectly situated for a day visit from Cape Town or an overnight stay to explore the valley properly. Franschhoek Uncorked happens in late August and is the perfect time to explore the area’s 43 wine farms. as well as the Drakenstein.co. . In step with the town’s French tradition. the valley was still known as Oliphantshoek due to the elephants which were found here.com for details) La Motte Wine Estate hosts classical music concerts in the restored historical cellar at the La Motte estate. When the Huguenots settled here in 1688. Dieu Donne. Provence and Chamonix.za. The Tasting Room at Le Quartier Français on 021 876 2151.’ Literary Festival happens in May and involves famous authors converging on the town to talk about their work and generally drink a lot of wine in the restaurants. Simonsberg and Wemmershoek mountains. together with La Cotte. La Motte. Detail: Tourist Association on 021 876 3603 and www. Cabriere. In fact.199 ‘The town has reinvented itself as the Gourmet Capital of South Africa.franschhoek.za. The Old Corkscrew on 021 876 3671.franschhoekwines. www.org. what is now known as the Franschhoek Pass was then known as Oliphantspad (elephants’ road) because it was the route game followed across the mountains. the Bastille Festival happens in July with highlights being a barrel-rolling competition and French film screenings. La Dauphine. Make time to drive up the pass via the R45 towards Villiersdorp for magnificent views of the town. Paarl in the distance.la-motte. At certain times of the year (check www.
200 WEST C OAST NATIONAL PARK KEY 106 West Coast National Park The towns of Saldanha and Langebaan and their adjacent bodies of secluded waters are rich in history. restrooms. Duinepos and Joanne’s Beach Farm near Churchhaven to permanently moored houseboats at Kraalbaai. near the town of Langebaan. If these are fully booked. directly off the R27. try one of the nearby towns such as Yzerfontein (key 107). But unlike Saldanha with its industrial harbour to the north. Langebaan and the area to the south of the town has been preserved in the West Coast National Park. or through the Langebaan Gate at the north. The main feature is the shallow Langebaan Lagoon. nearby bird hides and also serves as the starting point for four circular day hikes. Accommodation within the park is limited but varied. Palearctic migrants. leaving the southern end purely as a wilderness area. The Geelbek Visitors’ Centre has a fine restaurant (housed in a farmstead which dates from 1744). kite surfers and kayakers. The West Coast National Park (back map. yachting enthusiasts. Zoning limits sporting activities to certain sections of the lagoon. with everything from selfcatering houses at Abrahamskraal waterhole. Please drive and walk carefully! . As a Ramsar-protected wetland. Saldanha or Vredenburg. Cape gannet and the African penguin. popular amongst fishermen. which breed in the Photos: Some of the houseboats (above) moored at Kraalbaai in the Langebaan Lagoon can be rented out. which breed on the islands in the lagoon. Langebaan. key 106) is a haven for tortoises of which angulate tortoises are most commonly seen. Langebaan is of huge significance as a breeding site for birds such as kelp and Hartlaub’s gulls. The park can be entered at its south-eastern end.
.za and 022 772 2144/5. just to feed and recuperate here. which can be seen from Langebaan town.. The good news is that those two months are the best wildflower months in this area and the two-day Postberg trail is laid out for maximum enjoyment of the flowers (there is also a shorter day hike). It is even said that a lion once spent some time on the island back then – it swam to its safety after being pursued by hunters and then lucked out when it found the flock of sheep! The Postberg section of the park is only open during August and September as it is privately owned and only managed by SANParks.201 ‘It is even said that a lion once spent some time on the island . Churchhaven. Tsaarsbank on the Atlantic Ocean side of the park is a renowned whale-watching spot and from here you can look down Sixteen Mile Beach towards Yzerfontein. can also be seen in large numbers (up to 70 000 migratory birds). Detail: www. was named so because the Khoi used it as safe grazing for their sheep. which you should be able to make out on a clear day. ruddy turnstone and curlew sandpiper which fly 15 000 kilometres annually. just to remind you that you’re not that far from the city.org. established by fishermen in 1804. has a little Anglican church and from this elevated viewpoint over the lagoon you might see flocks of flamingo or white pelican dotted below. even though the pace of the West Coast might’ve fooled you into believing otherwise. all the way from Siberia. Schaapen Island.’ northern hemisphere summer and then fly here for the southern summer. You will see Table Mountain down to the south.sanparks. These waders include grey plover. .
called Sixteen Mile Beach and made for walking. a retired couple walking their dog and a few washed-up jellyfish. nor in much use. as well as self-catering accommodation. Chances are that your only companions will be the odd local fisherman. Meeurots Restaurant on 022 451 2608. a partially open-air seafood restaurant. There are a number of fine bed-and-breakfasts in town. which makes it the perfect place to escape to if you want a taste of the West Coast but don’t have much time to explore far up the coast. which is where the excellent Meeurots Restaurant gets its name. be sure to turn back in good time before it gets too dark. so if you want to self-cater for a few days. The rocky outcrop in the bay is called Meeurots (Gull Rock). Beaches Restaurant is indeed on the beach and from the outside tables you will have an uncluttered view up the coast towards Postberg in the West Coast National Park. but climb up the hill behind it for a good view of the whole bay. Above: If you’re heading up Sixteen Mile Beach at Yzerfontein (back map. . for obvious reasons. The town stretches southward with a narrow line of new holiday homes gradually inching towards Cape Town.tourismyzerfontein. Strandkombuis on 082 575 9683 (appointment only).co.202 YZERFONTEIN SEASIDE TOWN KEY 107 Yzerfontein The small seaside town of Yzerfontein lies 85 kilometres north of Cape Town. Alternatively.za. buy your food elsewhere. Detail: Tourist office on 022 451 2366 and www. Beyond the town limits you’ll see the Strandkombuis. key 107). for a sunset stroll. The beach is. but there isn’t a very wide range of shops. It is situated in the small centre on the corner of Main and Buitenkant streets. From this side you will see Dassen Island ten kilometres offshore (an important seabird breeding colony). as well as Table Mountain far to the south. the restaurants will ensure you never go hungry. Beaches Restaurant on 022 451 2200 (not open for dinner). rather than swimming. The harbour is not very pretty.
You won’t see bears. Animals like these big cats thrived in the area about five million years ago when the climate was wetter. KEY 108 Above: A sabre-toothed cat skull is one of the many animal bones which have been unearthed at the West Coast Fossil Park (back map. Detail: Monday to Friday. a coffee shop and a bird hide. The footprints have been removed and are stored under lock and key in the National Museum in Cape Town.30 am and includes a slideshow. Some of our earliest ancestors also lived here – as proved by the discovery of 117 000-year-old human footprints at the nearby Langebaan Lagoon in 1995. an enormous bear that weighed about 750 kg. the fossil park covers only 14 hectares. huge cats or giraffes on the West Coast today. Declared on the site of a closed-down phosphate mine in 1998.com . the West Coast National Park or Velddrif.Tours include a guided visit to the excavation site while the main tour starts at 11. 9 am to 12 noon. Saturday and Sunday.W E ST C OA S T F O S S I L PA R K 203 West Coast Fossil Park South Africa has one of the best fossil records in the world because it covers such an extraordinarily long period – from 3 800 million years ago to about a million years ago. ranging from three-toed horses and short-necked giraffes to sabretoothed cats. a children’s playground. which gives palaeontologists plenty of clues as to how animals evolved. The West Coast Fossil Park provides visitors with a glimpse into this ancient past. 8 am to 4 pm. and equally supersized wolverines. adapted to changing climates and either thrived or died out. Contact: 022 766 1606 or email wcfpark@iafrica. It is easy to combine the fossil park with any of the other West Coast highlights. but this arid landscape was once home to abundant wildlife. horse riding. but this small area has yielded bones of more than 200 different kinds of animals. A crucial 100-million-year period is also preserved without interruption. There are also short mountain bike trails. key 108). such as a visit to Paternoster.
key 109). which is right next to the Berg River in Velddrif (back map. Peroni’s Ocean Deli is a great place to buy fresh seafood.co. In Afrikaans. Langebaan and Vredenburg. Above: Bokkoms (dried fish) hang outside to dry in Bokkom Lane. The Vishuis Restaurant is as rustic as it gets. Dwarskersbos is a small residential village ten kilometres further up the coast where you can have coffee and a good meal at Café Izibele. The short strip just upriver from the bridge is great for birding and a leisurely stroll amongst Bokkom Lane’s old fishing cottages. Café Izibele on 022 784 0621.co. Peroni’s Ocean Deli on 022 783 2480. A major annual event in Velddrif is the four-day-long Berg River Canoe Marathon which starts in Paarl and finishes at Velddrif 240 kilometres later.capewestcoast. Port Owen. with the most obvious attractions being white pelicans and greater and lesser flamingos. with small boats moored at private jetties and the odd pelican waddling about. After running past Yzerfontein. The small Rocher Pan Nature Reserve just north of Dwarskersbos also has some good birding. a drif is a ford or river crossing. St Helena Bay lies in front of you here. The Berg River estuary is a big birding destination. a world-and-a-half removed from anything you’d have experienced at the V&A Waterfront back in Cape Town.org. but utterly beautiful on the right day. often windswept. A bokkom is a piece of dried fish – a West Coast speciality. it comes to an end at Velddrif. Berg River Canoe Marathon at www.za . Today it really is a collection of small settlements: Velddrif.za. Detail: Tourist office on 022 783 1821 and www.isuzuberg.204 VELDDRIF SEASIDE TOWN KEY 109 Velddrif The R27 which runs northwards from Cape Town up the West Coast.tourismvelddrif. is often simply known as ‘the West Coast Road’. www. At Laaiplek. Laaiplek and Noordhoek. and Velddrif was so named because the wide mouth of the Berg River is crossed here. Die Vishuis Restaurant on 022 783 1183.
The unusual design is the work of HC Cooper who was also responsible for the lighthouses at Cape Agulhas and Cape Point. Paternoster is probably the most picturesque West Coast fishing village. Thanks to development regulations. black mussels or snoek. Paternoster has also been affected by the property boom of the last few years.PAT E R N O ST E R S E A S I D E TOW N 205 Paternoster Depending who you believe.’ Stay over: Die Opstal selfcatering apartments on 022 752 2660. so restaurants like Seemeeu. Fishing is the main staple of the inhabitants. Like most other formerly quaint West Coast villages. Voorstrand and the Paternoster Hotel are ideal for trying out the local fare such as crayfish. usually from late July to October. The Cape Columbine lighthouse is another highlight. This is a good time to experience the atmosphere. and they have become the hallmark of the town. key 110) fisherman with a fresh catch of snoek. the lighthouse was commissioned at the turn of the 19th century but only became a reality as late as 1936. Blikkie rustic self-catering house on 082 856 9930. some of the original whitewashed fisherman’s cottages still stand on a low hill called Kliprug. . A highlight of the day comes when the bakkies (little boats) return from sea in the afternoon. where there is a good campsite at Tietiesbaai and beautiful flowers during season. named after either the patre nostre (Our Father) prayer by early shipwreck survivors or a type of fishing tackle rig. meet a few locals and buy fish directly from them if you are self-catering. After many ships wrecked themselves here. KEY 1 10 Above: A local Paternoster (back map. ‘Some of the original whitewashed fisherman’s cottages still stand. but it has managed to retain much of its original character. Paternoster Hotel on 022 752 2773. Also visit the nearby Columbine Nature Reserve (just five kilometres from town).
0206 KEY 11 1 Paternoster Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
sanparks. 022 772 2144/5 .za.org.0207 pull quote Details: www.
rhino.208 THE BIG FIVE WILDLIFE KEY 11 1 See the Big Five First things first: if you really want to experience Africa’s famous Big Five animals. Sabi Sands and the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. Aquila Private Game Reserve on 021 421 4998 and www. Fairy Glen Nature Reserve is situated just outside Worcester with Aquila Private Game Reserve about an hour further up the N1 near Touws River. the leopard. key 111). the only one of the Big Five which never completely disappeared from the region.com. they’ve been hunted out. such as the lions. remains the hardest to be seen as they lead extremely secretive lives in the moutainous areas. zebras. Nature walks and horseback trails are also offered. Ironically. will be in a small. so it’s not a cheap day out. The reserves can arrange for you to be collected from your hotel. You will also be able to see other game such as blue wildebeest. buffalo and lion – have been reintroduced and can now be seen within easy striking distance of Cape Town. fenced area and not roaming freely as they would in a large park. So while the Big Five was historically found wild in the Western Cape region. Detail: Fairy Glen on 0861 244 348 and www. where game is far more plentiful.aquilasafari. (And who can blame them for being so camera-shy?) The other four – elephant. some of the animals. Keep in mind that the rates start from R970 for a daylong safari. South Africa is renowned for game parks such as the Kruger National Park. oryx (gemsbok) and bontebok. Hluhluwe.capebig5safaris. but you are welcome to self-drive.com . then these offer excellent opportunities to get close to some pretty impressive animals. Above: A beautiful male lion at Fairy Glen Nature Reserve near Worcester (back map. They are very well looked after though. Inevitably. with the last lion being shot in the Cape Town area in 1802. If you are limited for time. then the Western Cape isn’t the place for you.
) In this time you have as many as ten courses to choose from. Muisbosskerm on 027 432 1017 and www. Remember. or doze for a minute to the tunes of the in-house guitarist. it’s a beach restaurant. On the menu you will find mussels. but it’s quite some distance further north near Lambert’s Bay. Die Strandloper (strandloper literally means ‘beach walker’) at Langebaan is arguably the king of these concept restaurants.com. which is the only item on which there is a limit – the rest you can eat as much of as you like! The homemade bread and roosterkoek (griddle cake) served with salty farm butter and apricot jam is delicious. so come in your swimming trunks. High heels will have to be kicked off or you’ll be stuck in the sand. Taking its name from the early Khoi inhabitants who combed the beaches and rocks here for food. Something which has become a speciality on the West Coast is the concept of an open-air beach restaurant. by appointment.muisbosskerm. They also offer accommodation. KEY 1 12 Above: Bookings at Die Strandloper (back map. literally set on the sand mere metres from the water which yielded what you tuck into. for it’s sometimes slow in revealing all that it has to offer. (They are also open for dinner. A lunch session starts at noon and could last until sunset. hottentot. snoek (delicious with sweet potato). Detail: Die Strandloper on 022 772 2490 and www. white stumpnose and crayfish.strandloper.co. The other beach restaurant of note is called Muisbosskerm.D I E ST R A N D LO P E R S E A F O O D H E AV E N 209 Die Strandloper beach restaurant The further you venture up the West Coast. In between courses you can roll down to the Langebaan lagoon to cool off. the more you will discover. angelfish.za . harder. It has been open since 1986 and is one of the premier attractions in the area. key 112) are essential.
it is called ‘sailing’. Hermanus is an easy day trip. Sometimes the tails stay up for ten or more minutes. Abagold offers tours to their abalone facility. Want even more whales? The Whale Trail is a five-day coastal hiking trail in the De Hoop Nature Reserve (east of Bredasdorp. Hunting reduced the numbers of southern right whales to about 50 by 1935. But Hermanus remains the most renowned place from which to spot these gigantic mammals and it’s no wonder that this part of the Cape coast is known as the Whale Coast. weigh up to 60 tonnes and potentially live to be a hundred years old! While Hermanus is reputed to have the best land-based whale watching in the world. sheltered bay of Walker Bay to mate and calve. as southern right whales congregate in the safe.210 HERMANUS WHALE WATCHIN G KEY 1 13 Hermanus whale watching The South African coastline offers many fine whale-watching stretches. with the entire Cape Peninsula also yielding regular sightings. Whale season is between July and November. key 113) you can do landbased whale watching (above) or go out on a boat to get a closer look (opposite page). you can get even closer to the creatures by joining one of the certified operators who take tours out into the bay. At just under two hours’ drive from Cape Town. but Photos: At Hermanus (back map. Chances are you’ll hear stories of abalone poaching while you’re in town and it’s true that this natural resource has been poached to virtual extinction along the coast here. approximately 260 km from Cape Town). It is a singular experience to spend a few hours with these gentle giants. Bryde’s whales. Besides southern right whales. . but the subsequent ban on hunting and concerted protection efforts have allowed the estimated population to swell to an estimated 2 200. humpback whales and killer whales can also be seen if you’re lucky. These gentle giants can reach 18 metres in length. Bookings on 021 659 3500. Luckily abalone farms have been set up to try and counter this looming disaster with conventional farming practices. When whales show off their tails like this.
A short drive out of Hermanus lies the beautiful Hemel-en-Aarde Valley (Heaven and Earth) where there are several wine farms.walkerbayadventures. If you know where to look for them. It features music.fernkloof.whalefestival. then go for second prize: visit the Whale Museum. Struisbaai and Arniston. a half-marathon. Other beaches to search for are Voëlklip.com. The Milkwood Restaurant.za. There is also a good restaurant. The Whale Festival usually happens in the last week of September.abagold. Onrus is essentially a small suburb of Hermanus and the beach at Onrus has probably the best swimming beach. Or simply stroll down the beach front.211 ‘It is a singular experience to spend a few hours with these gentle giants. On Saturday mornings there is a Farmer’s Market and the reserve plays host to the annual Hermanus Wildflower Festival in September. Here you can hike. Sumaridge and Newton Johnson Wines. spot birds and enjoy great views. If the whales aren’t out playing in Walker Bay. Bredasdorp. Grotto Beach and Langbaai Beach. Whalehaven.’ you’ll probably need longer if you want to explore the town and its surrounds properly. Abagold on 028 313 0253 and www. Fernkloof Nature Reserve on www. there are a couple of fine beaches at Hermanus too. Fernkloof Nature Reserve is situated in the mountains behind the town and covers almost 2 000 hectares of stunning mountain and coastal fynbos (about 1 600 species). Hermanus is also a good base from which to explore other Overberg destinations such as Napier. www. soccer and even a boule tournament. usually a week before the Whale Festival. Walker Bay Adventures (kayaking) on 082 739 0159 and www. such as Hamilton Russel. mountain bike.co.co.hermanus. Southern Right Charters on 082 353 0550.za . Elim.com. Detail: Tourist office on 028 312 2629 and www.za.co. Bouchard Finlayson. relax in one of the many good restaurants at the Village Square shopping centre or explore the harbour.
0212 KEY 1 15 Shark Cage Diving Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
022 772 2144/5 .org.0213 pull quote Details: www.za.sanparks.
Photos: Gansbaai (back map.za.sharkzone.co. just past Hermanus. even though you will come within close quarters of a great white shark on your excursion. White Shark Ecoventures on 021 552 1824 and www. the better it is for both them and us. Gansbaai. you would launch from Kleinbaai harbour in Gansbaai.214 SHARK CAGE DIVING ADVENTURE KEY 1 14 Shark cage diving The better we understand sharks.co. some operators offer an all-inclusive pick-up service from Cape Town. While you can drive there yourself. Of course. Some consider it controversial. so you will see them come right up to the surface. key 114) is the place to get up close and personal with great white sharks. make sure you take preventative tablets well in advance – you might have to spend some time in the swell. You will never be in water much deeper than a metre and a guide will be on hand to help you should there be any problems. Typically. but in reality we are their only threat to survival.com.whalewatchSA. because it is feared that luring them to boats might lead to more shark attacks. Shark cage diving has become a very popular tourist activity in the Western Cape. If you are in any way prone to sea-sickness.sharklady. A fake seal (above) and a piece of fish (previous pages) are used to lure the sharks close to the cage. you can also just do surface viewing from the safety of a boat. In our imaginations they are fearsome predators. you won’t put yourself in any real danger. You don’t have to be an open-water diver to see the sharks. The sharks are lured to the boats using a piece of fish and a seal dummy (seals are the favourite prey of great white sharks). which won’t necessarily agree with what you had for breakfast. However. drop anchor in what has become known as ‘Shark Alley’ and proceed with the dive. you can simply don a snorkel and goggles and get into the cage.za . Dyer Island Cruises on 028 384 0406 and www. is the capital for shark diving – there is even an annual Great White Shark Festival. Detail: Sharklady Adventures on 028 312 3287 and www. set out to Dyer Island.
but the actual southernmost point is Cape Agulhas. and where the continent of Africa comes to a serene. More about the region: Overberg Tourism on 028 214 1466 and www. key 115).tourismcapeoverberg. but definite end. Stay over: Agulhas Country Lodge (four star) on 028 435 7650. The ocean pounding the rocks is still impressive though. Whichever route you take. Today the lighthouse is a national monument – the building houses a museum and a good coffee shop. Kleinmond. but upgraded sporadically since.co. the settlement at Cape Agulhas.AG U L H A S A N D T H E OV E R B E RG W E E K E N D AWAY 215 Cape Agulhas and the Overberg While at Cape Point it might feel as if you’re at the end of the African continent. you get onto the R316 which takes you to Cape Agulhas via Napier and Bredasdorp. After having seen Cape Point’s dramatic sea cliffs and ocean washing up on three sides. Cape Agulhas might be disappointing. a pretty coastal town which has slowly grown over the last few years. which either makes it a tight day trip or a perfect excuse to linger for a few days in the Overberg. If you branch off the N2 at Caledon. and it’s a far more contemplative place than Cape Point. KEY 1 15 Photos: A typical farming scene in the Overberg region (above) and the lighthouse at Cape Agulhas (next pages . At Napier you can take an alternative route via Elim. It’s quite featureless except for the lighthouse.za . Besides the coastal towns of Betty’s Bay. Cape Agulhas Backpackers on 082 372 3354. Onrus. an old Moravian missionary town. You can have your photo taken where the Indian and Atlantic oceans meet. Hermanus and Gansbaai. It is a good four-hour drive from Cape Town. you will eventually reach the sea again at Struisbaai. It is now barely three kilometres from L’Agulhas.back map. several other towns can be explored on your way to Cape Agulhas. the region in which it lies. functional since 1849.
0216 KEY 1 16 Overburg Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
za.sanparks.0217 pull quote Details: www. 022 772 2144/5 .org.
218 RESTAURANTS Kloof Street (Key 23) Arnold’s Asokã Bacini’s Buzz Café Paradiso Café Sofia Caramello’s coffee shop Da Vinci Depasco Café Bakery Fabulous Gainsbourg coffee shop Kauai Limnos Bakers Liquorice and Lime Manna Melissa’s Food Shop Ocean Basket The Opal Lounge Saigon Shelley’s Gourmet Café St Elmo’s pizza Tong Lok Toni’s Zucca Lounge 055 055 055 055 055 055 054 055 054 055 055 054 054 055 055 055 054 054 055 055 054 054 055 055 Mountain View Takeway Mr Pickwicks Nando’s Nyoni’s Kraal Portobello Café Royale 019 019 018 019 019 020 Sea Point (Keys 22 and 27) Aris Souvlaki Café Bravo Café Neo The Cedar Restaurant Geisha Gelato La Vie Café Mario’s Restaurant Maz Sushi Bar Newport Market & Deli Posticino Ristorante RG Kabab Mahal Saul’s Saloon & Grill Soju Bar Theo’s Grill Tom Yum Venezia Wafu Wakame 063 023 023 063 023 023 023 063 062 023 063 063 063 062 023 063 062 023 023 022 V&A Waterfront (Key 02) Balducci’s Restaurant & Sushi Bar Cape Town Fish Market Ferryman’s Tavern Mitchell’s Waterfront Brewery Paulaner Braühaus Quay 4 Tavern 017 017 017 017 017 017 Winchester Mansions Bo-Kaap (Key 16) Biesmiellah Restaurant Noon Gun Tea Room 041 041. 051 Camps Bay (Key 28) Long Street (Key 03) Cake on Long Gourmet Burger Kauai Khaya Nyama KFC Lola’s Long Street Café Maharajah Indian Masala Dosa 020 018 018 020 018 020 020 020 019 Baraza Blues The Codfather Dizzy Jazz Café La Med Paranga Primi Piatti Sandbar Sinnful Summerville 065 065 065 065 065 065 065 065 065 065 .
078 Kalk Bay (Key 62) The Brass Bell Cape to Cuba Harbour House Restaurant Kalky’s Lino Café Olympia Café & Deli Polana Restaurant Cocktails (Key 86) Andiamo Beluga Buena Vista Social Café Café Mojito Cellars-Hohenhort Ché Bar Ignite 167 167 167 167 167 167 167 167 167 167 Muizenberg (Key 72) The Empire Café Fogey’s Railway House Restaurant The Olive Station 149 149 149 The Radisson SAS Hotel Waterfront Tobago’s Bar and Terrace The Twelve Apostles Hotel Observatory (Key 82) Café Ganesh Obz Café Panchos Sushi Zone 163 163 163 163 Deli (Key 24) Carlucci’s Caveau Wine Bar & Deli Giovanni’s Deliworld Knead Bakery & Coffee Shop Melissa’s Food Shop Raith Gourmet Sage 141 141 141 141 141 141 The Daily Deli 056.219 Hout Bay (Key 55) Fish on the Rocks Kitima Seafood Bistro Wharfside Grill 109 109 109 109 African Restaurants (Key 35) Addis in Cape Africa Café Khaya Nyama Mama Africa Marco’s African Place Nyoni’s Kraal 123 123 123 122 122 122 123 078 078 020 078 078 019. 057 057 056 057 056 057 057 057 Paarl (Key 70) Bosman’s at Grande Roche Hotel De Leuwen Jagt Kikka La Romantica Lecca il Gelato Terra Mare Sushi (Key 36) Balducci’s Restaurant & Sushi Bar Golden Wheat Kubo’s Little Japan Maz Sushi Bar Minato Japanese Sushi 017 145 079 062 079 079 163 079 065 079 079 Stellenbosch (Key 71) The Blue Orange De Volkskombuis Golden Wheat L’Olive Melissa’s Food Shop Wijnhuis 145 145 145 145 143 145 Oishii Fusion Sushi Bar Sushi Zone Tank Restaurant & Sushi Bar The Codfather Wakame Willoughby & Co .
119. 176 children . 156.Golden Valley Casino 189 . 204. 105.Glen Beach 64.Michaelis Collection 47 . 15. 150 Cape Philharmonic Orchestra 70 Cape Point 171.The Africa Centre 164 .St George’s Cathedral 45. 197 clubbing (see Long Street) 58 Coastal Kayaks 24 cocktails 23. 192. 95. 117. 27 . 66. 121. 200. 209 cricket 80 cycle 14. 164 Afrikaans 6. 167 beaches . 65.books 192 . 66. 164. 80. 196. 140 animals 121. 215 Cape Quarter 58 Cape Town City Hall 70. 70. 57.Scratch Patch 185 .Llandudno 93.Detour Traveller’s Shop 20 . 16 buses 50. 169. 60. 197 Adderley Street 38 adventure sports 194 African art 86. 116. 195.Diamond Works (see tour) 25 diving 69.Michael Stevenson Gallery 86 . 86 .Gordon’s Bay 68.Boulders Beach 24. 43.Bell-Roberts Gallery 86 . 139. 59.Onrus 211 . 41. 194.Central Methodist Church 75 . 150. 55.Caledon Hotel Spa & Casino 189 . 129 Dassen Island 117. 137.220 INDEX A abseiling 194. 151.Rocklands. 173 . 180. 178. 167 coffee 56.West Coast Fossil Park 203 churches . 47. 67 .Milton Beach 22 . 170 Constantia 131.Travel Centre 20 De Klerk. 190. 7. 171.African Portrait Gallery 18 . 50 catamarans 16 Centre for the Book 70 B baboons 171. 187 .Long Beach 113 .Stellenbosch Art Gallery 143 . 108. Andrew Geddes 191 Bain’s Kloof Pass 191 bars 166.restaurants 41 bookstores 19. 191 . 65. 198 architecture 18. 117 . 184. 161 Company Gardens 44.Noordhoek 104. 113.Rossouw Modern Gallery 150 . 138. 111 .Curious. 57 Devil’s Peak 50.Hout Bay 110. 100. 61 . 172. 108 Cape Malay 40.African Penguins (see Boulders) 117 .museum 49 .SA National Gallery 45. 128 . 50. 65. 156.Ratanga Junction 112 . 183. 168.‘what if the world’ gallery 86 Artscape 87 . 140. 69. 139 car rental 7.Blue Mountain Backpackers 20 .Sandy Bay 93 . 196.Photographers Gallery ZA 86 .Association for Visual Arts 86 . 153. 19. 154 Butterfly World 177 Ceres 82. 216. 27.Deer Park Café 161 . 105. 121 . 170. 144.Groote Kerk 187 .Imhoff Farm 182 . 193 Boyes Drive 148 braai 31. 217 Cape fur seal 17. 202 day trippers . 127 . 73. 167 crayfish 109. 67. 51 .Butterfly World 177 .Kommetjie 113 . 157. 172 backpackers . 205. 40. 45. 75. 94. 64. 142 art galleries .shops 41 . 196 C Cableway 14. 31.Blouberg 92 . 208 antiques 19.guided tours 41 . 71 Cape Town International Convention Centre 50. 179. 181. 104 Blue Lodge 20. Whetstone & Frankley 86 . 118.Fish Hoek 68.Two Oceans Aquarium 26. 113 . 71. 116 casino 189 . 201.St Martini German Lutheran Church 20 Clarence Drive 173.Bikini Beach 173 . 70. 163. Frederick 105 De Waterkant 58 delis 56.Clifton 24.Betty’s Bay 117 Big Five 208 birds 120. 191 Chapman’s Peak Drive 105. 122. 211 Blouberg 92. Sea Point 23 . 71 Bo-Kaap 40. 172. 41.Camps Bay 50. 186. 122.ice-skating 189 . 196 diamonds 25 .GrandWest Casino 189 Castle of Good Hope 21. 179. 79. 42. 50.Braaivleis Sentrum 118 bureaux de change 6. 99 Canal Walk Shopping Centre 112 Cape Argus Cycle Tour 137 Cape Agulhas 215.Castle Street Backpackers 18 Bain. 176 climate 6 climbing 14. FW 17 De Waal. 98 Camps Bay 50. 64. 196.Sasol Art Museum 143 .Erdmann Contemporary 86 . 160. 182. 164. 71.World of Birds 120.iArt 86 . 113 D Darling 89. 214 (see sharks) Duiker Island 108 Dyer Island 214 .Focus Contemporary 86 .
90.Café Erte 156 . 99. 58.Imizamo Yethu township 50.Texies 74 flowers 38. 98. 195. 120.whale watching 201.tearoom 91 kite-surfing 92. 197 Fernkloof Nature Reserve 211 festivals . 83. 168. 196. 122.Wildflower Festival 211 extreme sports 194.Kaapse Klopse 30. 96. 97 . 49 horse riding 127. 176 Kommetjie 113. The 198 .Cape Epic mountain bike race 139 . 121 L Labia Theatre 53.Franschhoek 130. 210 Holocaust Centre. 173 ice-skating 189 Imhoff Farm 182. 69. 155.harbour 50.Revelas Fisheries 19 . 123. 62.Two Oceans Marathon 139 .bunny chow 73 . 98 .Silvertree Restaurant 91 . 111. 203 Hout Bay 31. 152. 54 Library. 125. 108. 207 fish and chips . 217 . 206. National 45. 136 .Lusitania Fisheries 74 .Kalky’s 122 .The Golden Dish 73 .film 53 . Cape Town 45.Cape Town International Jazz Festival 138.museum 109 . 173. 106.Navy 134 . 210.Whale Festival 211 . 164.Slangkop 169 Lion’s Head 41. 193 Kalk Bay Theatre 188 kayak 23. 99.Franschhoek Uncorked 199 . 110. 128. 90 . 196 Little Karoo 184 I ice cream 23.Mother City Queer Project 138 .Snoekies 109 . 183 fishing 26.Café Neo 156 . 188.Reuben’s Restaurant and Bar 198 frogs 14 Franschhoek 130.Geek 156 . 117. 195. 40. 216. 173. 176.221 E emergency numbers 6 Ethical Co-op 82 events annual . 65.Marimba Restaurant 30 .Cape Agulhas 215. 211 hiking 14. 55 kloofing 194 Kogel Bay 174. 197 .picnic hampers 91 .Cap Classique and Champagne Festival 199 . 182 Koopmans-De Wet House 70 F False Bay 24.World of Birds 50. 138 Good Hope Centre 71 Greenmarket Square 47. 54. 191. 210.Fish on the Rocks 109 .surfing 113 . 92.Greenpoint 22 . Frank Major 44 G Gansbaai 214. 128. 153 Grosvenor House 70 K Kalk Bay 122. 201.Asokã 30 .music 89 fighter jet rides 197 Fish Hoek 68.Walker Bay Adventures 24 .J&B Met 137 . 215 .021 Lounge 30 .The Info. 91. 139 .Café 156 J Jazz 30 .Cape Town International Jazz Festival 138. 141. 182. 14.Biesmiellah’s 73 . 48.Mariam’s Kitchen 72 H Harley’s Liquor and Wine Specialist 38. 90. 183 Internet cafés 156 .Noon Gun Tea Room 73 .Fynbos Deli 91 .Dizzy Jazz Café 65 .Sunrise Chip ‘n Ranch 73 . 178 . 75.gatsby 73 . 200 Klondyke Cherry Farm 82 Kloof Street 53. 215 Gold of Africa museum 49 golf 126 Gordon’s Bay 172.Cape Columbine 205 . 205. 198. 161. 141. 89 Johnson. 169. 176 gay 53.Cape Argus Cycle Tour 137 . 24. Sir Herbert 45 Hermanus 24. 211 food 82 .Great White Shark Festival 214 . 132. 109. 199 fynbos 14.Haute Cabrière 198 . 70 lighthouses . 205. 101. 172. 91. 90.Old Corkscrew. 108. 194. 201. 109.comedy 87 . 198 . 139 . 108 .Bastille 199 . 209 Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens 50.Col’Cacchio 198 .Gardens Online 156 . 200 Khayelitsha 96 Khoi.The Green Dolphin 30. 175. 124.SA Gourmet Festival 139 . 39 helicopter ride 197 Hemel-en-Aarde Valley 211 Baker. 144. 148. 211.Snoek Derby 109 . 129.Berg River Canoe Marathon 204 .
153 Long Street bars and clubs .Dorp Street Mosque 19 Mount Nelson Hotel 37. 191 pilates 152 Planetarium 45.Joburg 19 .Mercury Live 88 . 50 . 159 Old Town House 75 Onrus 211 open-top city bus 17. 89 music (live) . 88. 149 Rhodes Memorial 100 Robben Island 16.Palm Tree Mosque 186 .Gold of Africa Museum 49.Winchester Mansions 23 .tidal 64.ORMS Profoto 19 .Pan African Market 153 Martin Melck House 49 Mbeki.District Six Museum 46.Café Mojito 20 .Die Mystic Boer 145 . 182 Old Biscuit Mill 82 Old Post Office 71 .Milnerton market 83.Newlands 68. 48.Oude Molen Brandy Museum 133 .see museums . 97. 70. 50 .Farmer’s Market 211 . 163 Ocean View 169. swimming . 50 .Imhoff Farmer’s Market 183 . 141. 117.Museum van de Caab 130 .Simon’s Town Museum 134 .South African Slave Church Museum 18 .Rondebosch craft market 83 . 194. 196 parliament 45 Paternoster 205 penguins 24. 97.Greenmarket Square 75 . 17. 45 mountain biking 139. 144. 195 O Observatory 162. 107 markets 75.Toy and Miniature Museum 143 .Observatory 68. Nelson 17.South African Maritime Museum 17 .Kirstenbosch summer concerts 90. 52 Lourensford Estate 172 Luthuli. 50 ostrich farm 184 Overberg 116. 196. 19. 45.Neighbourgoods Market 82 .Village Museum 142 . The 134 Rhodes.Waterfront 17 . 68 Pringle Bay 176 Protea Assurance 71 provincial administration offices 71 putt-putt 23 M Maclear’s Beacon 14 Mandela. 50 . 107 Rooiels 176 rugby 81 running 22.Paarl Mountain Nature Reserve 141 paragliding 195.African Women’s Trading Market 153 .Sea Point Pavilion Pool 22. 91. 139.Bo-Kaap Museum 49 . 150.Auwal Mosque 186 . 211 Muizenberg 113. 190 .South African Naval Museum 134 . 152.Afrikaans Language Museum 140 . 215 P Paarl 140.La Motte Wine Estate 199 .Stones 19 Long Street Turkish Baths 20. 105.Fiction 20 . 75. 148 museums .Muizenberg/Sunrise Beach Market 83 . 71. 52. Govan 106 money 6 Monkey Town 172 mosques . 204 .Irma Stern Museum 48 . 68 . 106.see restaurants .The Whale Museum 211 . 91 .Heart of Cape Town Museum 49 .The Assembly 88 . 141. 163 . 133. Albert 17 . 45. 85 .Kirstenbosch Craft market 83 .Hout Bay Museum 109 N Newlands Cricket Ground (Sahara Park Newlands) 80 Newlands Rugby Stadium 81 Noon Gun 51. 20. 158.Die Boer 89 .The Waiting Room 20 .Slave Lodge 46 .South African Museum 45.Paarl Museum 140 . 83 .Shap’s Cameraland 18 . 84. 106.222 INDEX Lipton Cup 36 Long Street 18. 170. 56. 45. 47.VOC Kruithuis 143 music 19. 48.Marvel 20 .Photographic Repairs 19 picnics 22. 100.Long Street Baths 52 . 27. 47 playground (Sea Point) 22 playcentre (Two Oceans Aquarium) 27 Polkadraai Farm 82 pools. 31. 163 Noordhoek 127 R Ratanga Junction 112 Residency. 47.The University Museum 143 .Zula Sound Bar 88 Mzoli’s 157. 98. 101. 92. 92. 200 photography shops . Cecil John 44. 70.South African Jewish Museum 45. 82.Durbanville Kunskafee 89 .
17. 194. 104. 31. 188 .Spa Steenberg 151 .Stillness Manor and Spa 151 .Gardens Shul 187 V Van der Stel. 17. 117. Walter 106 skydive 196 soccer 34. 100. 64 Twelve Apostles Hotel 37.Constantia Uitsig 151 . 90. 204.Theatre on the Bay 65 Tietiesbaai 205 tipping 6 Tokai Forest 194. 203 . Lord Charles 128 Somerset West 172 spas . 143.Athlone Stadium 34.Klein Libertas Theatre 145 . 16. 131.Langebaan lagoon 24 . 139.Wine Concepts 39 wine farms . 186 Twelve Apostles 14. 178 sunset cruises 16. 190. 164 .Vaughan Johnson’s Wine Shop 39 . Simon 142 Van Riebeeck. 101. 28. 200.The Little and Intimate Theatres 87 . 63. 153.Westin Grand Cape Town Arabella Quays Spa 151 Spier 132.Artscape 87 . 108. 107 West Coast 24. 129.223 S safety 7 Sahara Park Newlands (Newlands Cricket Ground) 80 sailing 128 scenic drives 105. 98. 29.Muratie 131.Maynardville 87 .Lifestyle on Kloof 54 .HB Thom Theatre 145 .Simonsig 131. 135 shark cage diving 214 sharks 135. 211 whisky 165 wine shops .Clock Tower 17. 32.see museums .Real Cape Adventures 24 . 154 theatres . 35 . Victoria & Alfred 16. 128. 164 Stellenbosch 119. 201.The Dorp Street Theatre 144 . 178 Scratch Patch 185 Sea Point 50. 101. 39 .Cape Medi-Spa 151 .Kalk Bay Theatre 87.Blue and Red sheds (V&A) 153 .see theatres . 130. 116. 185 Sisulu. 93. 209 . 134. 50. 50 Y yachts 16. 135.Pan African Market 153 . 173. 148. 196 Tourism Office Cape Town 50 township tours 96.nightlife 145 .Tokara 131 . 79 swimming 68 (see pools) synagogues 62 . 92 Seal Island 69.Backsberg 133 .Caledon Hotel Spa & Casino 189 . 148.Kanonkop 131 . 184. 210. 92. 176. 90. 214 shopping .Harley’s Liquor and Wine Specialist 38. 36. 196. 68 Sea Point Promenade 22.Kloof Street 54 . 170. 102.V&A Waterfront 16 Signal Hill 51.Long Street Turkish Baths 151 . 201 whales 24.Gardens 156 . 132. 17. Jan 44.The Masque Theatre 149 . 27. 196 taxis 7. 144. 103 Silvermine 190 Simon’s Town 31. 142. 205. 195. 201.Green Point Stadium 34 Somerset. 97 Tutu.West Coast National Park 200.St Peter’s Square 162 . 202. 132 .Cabrière 131 . 26. 121 T Table Bay Hotel 37 Table Mountain 14. 119 W Waterfront. 104.wine route 132 Strand 172. 212.African Women’s Trading Market 153 .Warmwaterberg Spa (Klein Karoo) 151 . 23. 117.Oude Libertas Amphitheatre 145 . 15.Groot Constantia 150 . Yacht Club. 130.Spier 132. Desmond 17.Delheim 131 . 113 sushi 62. 33 surfing 93. 133. 50. 141 World of Birds 120.winelands 116.Canal Walk 112 .Jonkershoek 144 . 35 . 145 . 167. 178 Two Oceans Aquarium 16. 106 Velddrif 204 Vine Hopper 133 Voortrekker Road 118. Hout Bay 36 yoga 152 Yzerfontein 202 Z Zuma.Sanctuary Spa (Twelve Apostles Hotel) 151 .Mangwanani Private Day Spa 151 . 116.Caroline’s Fine Wine Cellar 39 . Jacob 106 .Palmhof Shopping Centre 55 . 133 . Royal Cape 36 Yacht Club.The Baxter 87 . 99. 200. 62. 213. Strandloper Restaurant 209 sundowners 65.
Monique and Priya. Nic. Camilla and Greg – models of the highest order. Ryan. thanks for helping me kickstart it all. Ceri and all at Jonathan Ball Publishers for giving us a gap. The other Rebecca. Abbey. family and work colleagues for advice. Toast thanks: Rebecca. thanks for lending an ear. Friends. Simone. Erns. Sam. Yunus Mohamed and Jon and Suzette Minster for helping out with photographs. Jake and Tam – I really appreciate all your help. tips and sharing ideas. for reading and nudging and pointing. You’re a photo assistant and G&T maker extraordinaire. David Harrison.Sam thanks: Big love to my parents. This one is for the happy memories at 75 Dolphin Drive. and Kelly for last-minute reading. . Justin. Toast & Sam thank: Marius for making it all look beautiful. Big thanks to Eric Miller. Key 45 is especially for you. because without you this would’ve been rather dull.
REGIONAL MAPS .
Somerset West & Strand Scenic drive to Rooiels – Clarence Drive Butterfly World Cape Point Imhoff Farm West Coast Ostrich Farm Scratch Patch – Kids’ paradise Kalk Bay Theatre GrandWest Casino Best braai spot – Oudekraal Bain’s Kloof Pass 104.3 Extreme sports – Mountain biking at 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 Tokai Forest Franschhoek West Coast National Park Yzerfontein West Coast Fossil Park Velddrif Paternoster The Big Five – Fairy Glen Nature Reserve Die Strandloper – Beach restaurant Hermanus – Whale watching Shark cage diving – Gansbaai Cape Agulhas .2 50 52 53 54 55 56 57 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 70 71 Jazz – 021 Lounge Soccer – Athlone Stadium Camps Bay Diving – Glencairn Architecture – Bellville City Hall Newlands Cricket Ground Newlands Rugby Stadium Fresh food and fruits – Neighbourgoods Market Alternative Markets – Milnerton Market Art Gallery – ‘what if the world’ Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden Blouberg – Beach walk Llandudno Township tourism – Imizamo Yethu Township tourism – Khayelitsha Township tourism – Langa Hiking – Cecelia Forest Rhodes Memorial Sundowner – The Blue Peter Chapman’s Peak Drive Robben Island Hout Bay Ratanga Junction Surfing – Muizenberg African penguins – Boulders Beach Voortrekker Road The World of Birds Kalk Bay Milnerton Golf Club Horse riding – Noordhoek beach Fish Hoek Darling The Winelands Simon’s Town Paarl Stellenbosch 72 73 78 80 81.3 48.1 28 30 31.1 47.2 47.KEY TO REGIONAL MAPS 9.1 11.2 82 83 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 99 100 101 102 Muizenberg Groot Constantia Freshwater fishing – Eikendal Vineyards Mzoli’s – Barbecue heaven Best peninsula coffee shop – Olympia Café Observatory Spier – moyo restaurant Sea fishing – Hout Bay Kommetjie Birding – Velddrif Walk with baboons – Glencairn Gordon’s Bay.3 37 38 39 40 41 44 45 46 47.1 Extreme sports – Sandboarding at Atlantis 104.
Explore premier destinations such as Table Mountain. what to do with your kids or where to find the best sushi. Key to Cape Town shows you the way. Der Spiegel and National Geographic Books. or discover lesserknown.220 full-colour pages • 115 things to do and places to visit • 25 suggested itineraries • Detailed city centre street map • Peninsula and regional travel map In Cape Town for a day? A week? Maybe forever? Key to Cape Town is a richly illustrated and easy-to-use guide that captures the very best of what the Mother City has to offer. Robben Island. vibrant perspective. off-beat destinations and things to do.za . Toast Coetzer is a senior writer at the South African travel magazines Go! and Weg.sunbirdpublishers. Camps Bay and Cape Point from a fresh. Or simply plan your own itinerary from a selection of 115 ideas. She is a born. www. This indispensable guide. bred and proud Capetonian.co. such as a relaxing day trip to Bain’s Kloof Pass or where to buy a tasty gatsby in the city centre. with all the maps you’ll need. the Winelands. Time. He has lived in the city since 2001 and rather likes it. Samantha Reinders is a freelance photojournalist whose work has appeared in The New York Times. If you want to know where to watch soccer. suggests itineraries to suit your interests and to maximise your stay in Cape Town.
This action might not be possible to undo. Are you sure you want to continue?
We've moved you to where you read on your other device.
Get the full title to continue reading from where you left off, or restart the preview.