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Your insider’s guide to exploring the Mother City
Choose from over 100 must-see attractions and customise your own itinerary
Fold-out maps included
Toast Coetzer Samantha Reinders
KEY TO CITY CENTRE MAP
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9.2 10 11.2 12 13 14 15.1 15.2 16 17 18.1 18.2 18.3 18.4 19 20 21 22 23 24.1 24.2 25 26 27.1 27.2 29 31.1
Table Mountain – Lower Cable Station V&A Waterfront – Shopping centre Long Street The Castle of Good Hope Sea Point Promenade Kayaking – Three Anchor Bay Shop for diamonds – Foreshore Two Oceans Aquarium Jazz – The Green Dolphin Sunset cruise Soccer – Green Point Stadium Yachting Afternoon tea at the Mount Nelson Hotel The Adderley Street Flower Market Harley’s Liquor and Wine Specialist Caroline’s Fine Wine Cellar The Bo-Kaap The Company Gardens Museum – Slave Lodge SA Holocaust Centre District Six Museum SA Museum Open-top bus tours depart from here The Noon Gun Long Street Baths The Labia Theatre Kloof Street Giovanni’s Deliworld Melissa’s Food Shop De Waterkant Clifton Sea Point – Venezia Gelateria Sea Point – Ocean View Drive Sea Point Pool Architecture – Cape Town City Hall
31.2 31.4 32.1 32.2 33 34 35 36 42.1 42.2 43.1 43.2 48.1 49 51 58 69.1 69.2 74 75 76 77 79 81.1 84 85 86 98.1 98.2
Architecture – Koopmans-De Wet House Architecture – The Blue Lodge Local food – Mariam’s Kitchen Local food – The Noon Gun Tea Room Best fish and chips – Lusitania Fisheries Greenmarket Square African restaurant – Mama Africa Oishii Fusion Sushi Bar The Intimate Theatre Theatre – Artscape Local music – Mercury Live Local music – Mabu Vinyl Hiking – Table Mountain Lion’s Head – Easy walk Signal Hill – View point Motor Classic Rentals Annual Kaapse Klopse festival – Rose Street Annual jazz festival – Cape Town International Convention Centre The Arabella Spa Zenzero – Yoga studio African art – Pan African Market Cape Town Station – Minibus taxi rank Internet café – Café Neo Best coffee in town – Anthony’s Golden Cup Bascule Whisky Bar Bar and boogie spot – LB’s Cocktail bar – Wakame Places of worship – Moravian Church Places of worship – Al-Azhar Mosque
103.1 Best bookshops – Clarke’s Bookshop 103.2 Best bookshops – The Book Lounge 104.2 Extreme sports – Paragliding off Lion’s Head 104.4 Extreme sports – Abseiling off Table Mountain
CITY CENTRE MAP
For Montgomery Cooper
First published in 2009 Sunbird Publishers (Pty) Ltd PO Box 6836 Roggebaai 8012 Cape Town, South Africa www.sunbirdpublishers.co.za Registration number: 1984/003543/07 Copyright published edition © Sunbird Publishers Copyright text © Toast Coetzer Copyright images © Samantha Reinders (unless otherwise indicated)
Cover design, typesetting and reproduction by MR Design Printed and bound by Star Standard Industries Pte Ltd (Singapore) All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the copyright owner(s). ISBN 978-1-919938-86-8 While every last effort has been made to check that the information in this guide is correct at the time of going to press, the publisher, author and their agents will not be held liable for any damages incurred through any inaccuracies.
Additional photography by Yunus Mohamed (p 136), David Harrison (p 138), Jon Minster (p 69) and Suzette Minster (p 211).
Toast Coetzer Samantha Reinders
CONTENTS Welcome to Cape Town! How this book works Itineraries 006 008 009 014 016 018 021 022 024 025 026 030 031 034 036 037 038 039 040 044 046 050 051 052 053 054 056 058 059 062 KEY 28 KEY 29 KEY 30 KEY 31 KEY 32 KEY 33 KEY 34 KEY 35 KEY 36 KEY 37 KEY 38 KEY 39 KEY 40 KEY 41 KEY 42 KEY 43 KEY 44 KEY 45 KEY 46 KEY 47 KEY 48 KEY 49 KEY 50 KEY 51 KEY 52 KEY 53 KEY 54 KEY 55 KEY 56 KEY 57 Camps Bay Sea Point Pool Diving Architecture Local food Best fish and chips Greenmarket Square African restaurants Sushi Cricket Rugby Fresh food and fruits Alternative markets Art galleries Theatre Local music Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden Blouberg beach walk Llandudno Township tour Hiking Table Mountain Walk up Lion’s Head Breakfast at Rhodes Memorial Signal Hill Sundowners at the Blue Peter Chapman’s Peak Robben Island Hout Bay Ratanga Junction Surfing 064 068 069 070 072 074 075 078 079 080 081 082 083 086 087 088 090 092 093 096 098 099 100 101 104 105 106 108 112 113 KEY 01 KEY 02 KEY 03 KEY 04 KEY 05 KEY 06 KEY 07 KEY 08 KEY 09 KEY 10 KEY 11 KEY 12 KEY 13 KEY 14 KEY 15 KEY 16 KEY 17 KEY 18 KEY 19 KEY 20 KEY 21 KEY 22 KEY 23 KEY 24 KEY 25 KEY 26 KEY 27 Table Mountain V&A Waterfront Long Street The Castle of Good Hope Sea Point Promenade Kayaking Shop for diamonds Two Oceans Aquarium Jazz Sunset cruise Soccer Yachting Afternoon tea at the Mount Nelson The Adderley Street Flower Market Party tips The Bo-Kaap The Company Gardens Museums of the city Cape Town by open-top bus The Noon Gun Long Street Baths The Labia Theatre Kloof Street Delis De Waterkant Clifton Sea Point .
Somerset West & Strand Scenic drive to Rooiels Butterfly World Cape Point Imhoff Farm Visit an ostrich farm Scratch Patch Places of worship Kalk Bay Theatre 169 170 171 172 176 177 178 182 184 185 186 188 189 190 191 192 194 198 200 202 203 204 205 208 209 210 214 215 218 220 KEY 100 Casinos KEY 101 The best braai spots KEY 102 Bain’s Kloof Pass KEY 103 The best bookshops KEY 104 Extreme sports KEY 105 Franschhoek KEY 106 West Coast National Park KEY 107 Yzerfontein KEY 108 West Coast Fossil Park KEY 109 Velddrif KEY 110 Paternoster KEY 111 See the Big Five KEY 112 Die Strandloper beach restaurant KEY 113 Hermanus whale watching KEY 114 Shark cage diving KEY 115 Cape Agulhas and the Overberg Restaurants Index .KEY 58 KEY 59 KEY 60 KEY 61 KEY 62 KEY 63 KEY 64 KEY 65 KEY 66 KEY 67 KEY 68 KEY 69 KEY 70 KEY 71 KEY 72 KEY 73 KEY 74 KEY 75 KEY 76 KEY 77 KEY 78 KEY 79 KEY 80 KEY 81 KEY 82 KEY 83 KEY 84 KEY 85 KEY 86 KEY 87 Cruise around in a classic African penguins at Boulders Voortrekker Road The World of Birds Kalk Bay Golf Horse riding at Noordhoek Fish Hoek Darling The Winelands Simon’s Town Annual events Paarl Stellenbosch Muizenberg Groot Constantia Spas Exercising in the city African art Take the minibus taxi Freshwater fishing Internet cafés Hang out at Mzoli’s The best coffee shops Observatory Spier Whisky bars Bars for everyone Cocktail bars Sea fishing 116 117 118 120 122 126 127 128 129 130 134 136 140 142 148 150 151 152 153 154 155 156 157 160 162 164 165 166 167 168 KEY 88 KEY 89 KEY 90 KEY 91 KEY 92 KEY 93 KEY 94 KEY 95 KEY 96 KEY 97 KEY 98 KEY 99 Kommetjie Birding Walk with baboons Gordon’s Bay.
a tip of a few silver coins would be appreciated. If you want to leave a tip at the hotel or B & B. very careful in the sun – severe sunburn can spoil your holiday within one hour. During winter. Automated Teller Machines (ATMs) are just about everywhere. dry summers. English. Emergency numbers • Police Emergency 10111 (free to dial except from mobile phones) • Ambulance 10177 (free to dial except from mobile phones) • General Emergency 107 (free to dial except from mobile phones) • General Emergency 112 (free from mobile phones) • Netcare 082 911 • Groote Schuur Hospital 021 404 9111 • Somerset Hospital 021 402 6911 • City Park Hospital 021 480 6111 • Red Cross Children’s Hospital 021 658 5111 • Tygerberg Hospital 021 938 4911 • Mountain Rescue Service 021 948 9900 • Sea Rescue 021 449 3500 Money There are many bureaux de change in the city. because anything less just isn’t . Afrikaans and Xhosa are the main languages spoken in the city. but they should be given at least a R2 coin. with the mountainous areas receiving more. Be very. Summers are long and can last from October to May. usually in shopping centres. with wet winters and hot. The average maximum summer temperature is 26 ºC. but it occasionally reaches a sweltering 40 ºC. Rainfall around the peninsula varies between 500 mm and 1 500 mm per year. If your fuel attendant was very efficient (there are no self-service fuel stations). Summers are dry with only very occasional thunderstorms which are often just electric storms with not much rain at all. In summer. Credit and debit card payments are accepted almost everywhere except informal businesses. Informal car guards can be tipped to your discretion. The south-easterly wind. a hat. A good spell of three clear days can be followed by rainy weather for the next five days.006 FACT FILE Welcome to Cape Town! The city One of the most scenic cities in the world. never carry all your cash with you. with an average minimum temperature of 7 ºC. but the hottest months generally are February and March. Climate The Cape Peninsula and its immediate interior has a Mediterranean climate. Cape Town is South Africa’s second largest city. carry only what you will need for the day. with a little more than three million inhabitants. You can leave it at reception and stipulate who should receive a share of the tip. the most conveniently situated ones being in the V&A Waterfront shopping complex. but most locals will be able to communicate with you in English. supermarkets or at fuel stations. It never gets too cold though. Tipping in sit-down restaurants is 10%. Tipping in bars is usually limited to leaving your change on the counter for the barman to claim. South African rand must be used for cash purchases. fondly known as the Cape Doctor. it is always best to have a light raincoat packed into your day bag if you are going to be out and about. Winters are characterised by enormous cold fronts that sweep over the peninsula one after the other. The population is spread out over a large area. The dominant wind during these months is a fierce north-westerly. or more if the service was very good. For safety’s sake. the best idea is to leave a cumulative tip for the staff who helped you during your stay. sunglasses and good sunscreen are essential. except in the city centre. blows frequently (more in some areas than others) and is welcomed as it rids the city of air pollution. with very few heavily built up areas or high-rises.
com is an excellent resource for travellers. Howzit – is slang and means ‘Hello’ across the board. Thank you – Dankie (Afrikaans) and Enkosi (Xhosa). so care must be taken at all times.co. Cape Town is no different. Hertz (021 935 3000) and Cape Car Hire (021 385 0445) – the numbers given are of offices at Cape Town International Airport. CabXpress (021 486 1616). Imperial (021 935 8600). Companies include Rikkis (0861 745 547). Useful numbers • Weather Bureau 082 162 • Cape Town Tourism Office 021 487 6800 and www.capetown.tourismcapetown. Avis (021 934 0330). If possible. and the newspaper headlines will confirm that crime is still a big problem in the country. the truth is that it actually largely blows out of the south. Ask them if the area to which you are going is considered safe.007 One of the most scenic cities in the world money anymore. always walk in a small group. Western Cape roads are relatively good and driving around by yourself is very feasible. Which way? While people always talk of the south-easterly wind. Excite (021 448 4444) and Marine Taxis (021 434 0434). Always tell someone at the establishment at which you are staying where you are heading and when you plan to be back. Airlink Airport (021 910 1902).za • Cape Town International Airport 021 937 1200 • Passport and Visa Department of Home Affairs 021 934 0407 Speak easy: A few words in Xhosa or Afrikaans will go a long way towards making an instant friend. Nevermind! Tip: www. Keep your valuables in an inside pocket or somewhere secure.gopassport. It is best to lock everything in the boot of the car. Never leave anything valuable lying around in clear sight in your vehicle. Getting around While the city centre can be explored on foot and metered taxis can be taken just about anywhere. Safety You will no doubt have heard all about crime in South Africa before your arrival. Giving food to beggars and street children is generally considered better than giving them money. Provided that you are comfortable with a manual gear lever (stick-shift) and driving on the left-hand side of the road. Metered taxis have to be called in advance to pick you up and it’s only in the busy areas of town (such as Long Street during the evening) that you can attempt to hail an empty cab from the side of the street. the peninsula and further afield is by car. or even the southwest. the best way to get around Cape Town. Most of the city centre is perfectly safe throughout the day. Popular car rental companies include Tempest (021 935 8650). . but more so at night.
On pp 9–13 we have listed different suggested itineraries. Or you can just follow your own nose. each richly illustrated with photographs to give you an idea of what the location looks like or what the activity might entail. suggesting an activity we regard as being very worthwhile of doing during your time in Cape Town and its surrounding areas. such as someone solely here to enjoy sport. All the premier tourist destinations are covered as well as a number of unusual ones for those who like the routes less travelled. Whether you are a first-time or return visitor. we trust that this guide will set you on a happy and wholesome path of discovery. a reference to the front or back map is made so you know where to find it in a flash. but a great number are totally free. Other keys look at locations – in the city centre. There are 115 ‘keys’ listed in this book. In the caption of each key’s main photograph. We have tried to strike a balance for people travelling on different budgets. there are a great number of suggested day-trips to take you into the famed Cape winelands. You can use Key to Cape Town in more ways than one. the outdoors or the arts. Some activities cost a lot of money. to Hermanus for whale watching. or up the West Coast in search of peace and quiet. page through the book. decide what looks interesting and set off to do your own thing. we suggest places to eat and drink as we know that travelling is as much about living the good life as it is about being a modern-day explorer. or we group together keys of a similar nature which might interest a specific type of tourist. These form ‘bunches of keys’ which can be sensibly enjoyed within a certain time frame. page number key number map reference . Some keys are very specific.008 THIS WAY How this book works Key to Cape Town is a guide that will help you unlock the secrets of this dynamic city. While the book concentrates on activities and attractions in the city centre (the city bowl). the Cape Peninsula and further afield – and what activities can be enjoyed there. The city centre map at the front of the book is more detailed and can be used as your walkabout map while you explore the city. The regional map at the back is there to give you an idea of the distances involved in reaching the outlying areas featured in this book. Throughout.
KEY 42 Theatre. KEY 35 African restaurants. Dine out. Dine on delicacies from the continent. Take a day trip to this beautiful park. Discover local acting. tick. KEY 54 Robben Island. KEY 47 Township tour. KEY 03 Long Street by night. Take in the atmosphere. KEY 05 Sea Point Promenade. Climb it if you can. 1 day You’re back in town and this time the conference ended early KEY 54 Robben Island. Climb it if you can. or take the cable car. maybe even see whales. dance the night away.009 ITINERARIES Suggested itineraries Plan your stay by using our simple guidelines 1 day You’re in town for 24 hours and it’s your first time here! KEY 01 Table Mountain by day. KEY 106 West Coast National Park. Discover the world of the Cape Malays. KEY 10 Sunset cruise. KEY 03 Long Street by night. KEY 94 Cape Point. tick. dancing and comedy talent. KEY 113 Hermanus. KEY 34 Greenmarket Square. Climb it if you can. Walk where you haven’t walked before. Lush and lively. KEY 03 Long Street by night. 3 days A return visitor who wants to delve deeper this time around KEY 16 The Bo-Kaap. Venture beyond the comfort zone. KEY 02 V&A Waterfront. See the city without any hassle. 7 days Time for almost everything! KEY 01 Table Mountain by day. major landmark. KEY 94 Cape Point. KEY 10 Sunset cruise. Scenic drive. Settle down for a meal afterwards. 3 days It’s your first time here and you’ve got a couple of days to play with KEY 01 Table Mountain by day. major landmark. relaxing and inviting. Scenic drive. Jive with the local hipsters. Shop for African art and meet the artists. Soak up some history. Pick your favourites. Go walk it off at the sea. With a glass of sparkling wine. Dine on delicacies from the continent. . Soak up some history the next morning. KEY 54 Robben Island. KEY 35 African restaurants. Soak up some history the next morning. With a glass of sparkling wine. Scenic drive en route. KEY 48 Hiking Table Mountain. meet locals. KEY 18 Museums of the City. KEY 19 Open-top bus tour. KEY 17 The Company Gardens. or take the cable car. or take the cable car.
. KEY 08 Two Oceans Aquarium. read a book. Venture beyond the comfort zone. The world’s greatest movie theatre. KEY 86 Cocktails. More tan. Discover this delightful seaside town. KEY 110 Paternoster. True. KEY 07 Shop for diamonds. Chapman’s Peak. KEY 57 Surfing. A fine sundowner spot. KEY 74 Spas. Hang with the locals. KEY 52 Sunset at the Blue Peter. KEY 29 Sea Point Pool. then eat a hearty meal. Take a day trip with stops on the way. Township tour. Everything under one roof. Shop for African art and meet the artists. Discover local acting. less swim. The party is about to commence. you’ll be looking for ‘For Sale’ signs. Pick your favourites. Where to learn and where to go if you’re a pro. Drive to the southernmost point of Africa. KEY 103 Bookshops. KEY 48 Hiking. Endless beach.010 ITINERARIES KEY 23 KEY 47 KEY 62 KEY 53 KEY 82 KEY 106 Kloof Street. KEY 44 Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. World’s greatest beach? KEY 28 Camps Bay. Talk rubbish. Where to relax in comfort and style. Shop The suitcase is going to be over the weight-limit anyway KEY 76 African art. Jewellery the easy way. KEY 34 Greenmarket Square. Cruise the short strip. KEY 18 Museums of the City. or dine by night. A beautiful beach beyond belief. Kalk Bay. dancing and comedy talent. KEY 46 Llandudno. Sniff out a Cape Town novel to snuggle up with. KEY 41 Art galleries. Observatory. Rainy day or two The weather is foul and indoors is where it’s at KEY 22 The Labia. Find a quiet corner. KEY 42 Theatre. Rest body and soul You’re on vacation and you’re not planning on checking email KEY 107 Yzerfontein. Scenic drive par excellence. More swim. pre-season tan. KEY 02 V&A Waterfront. Walk and shop by day. The underwater world revealed. Head to the hills. Summer slam It’s summer and you’re in a hurry to get that tan KEY 26 Clifton. the beaches and beyond. Get contemporary. Where to start and how to buy. KEY 115 Cape Agulhas. West Coast National Park.
days in the galleries KEY 31 Architecture. There’s something here for everyone. fun folk. KEY 48 Hiking Table Mountain. Where to see the beautiful game. everywhere. Rocking rides for the wild bunch. Swingtime. KEY 108 West Coast Fossil Park. Paradise around the corner. And they’ll walk with you. The ocean calls Enjoy the seas around the peninsula KEY 57 Surfing. Shipwrecks and reefs around the Cape of Storms. Learn more about ancient fossils. KEY 12 Yachting. A leisurely exploratory paddle. KEY 37 Cricket. KEY 114 Shark diving. It’s a scrum! KEY 63 Golf. KEY 90 Walk with baboons. Petting zoo. World of fun too. KEY 38 Rugby. Up close and stinky. Get contemporary. KEY 93 Butterfly World. KEY 95 Imhoff Farm. For art’s sake Evenings in the theatre. craft shops and more. KEY 59 African penguins at Boulders Beach. If you’re already qualified. Nature’s delight For the traveller who finds plants more interesting than people KEY 30 Diving. camels. Beers. sunshine. Out at sea. Let the kids treasure-hunt for semi-precious stones. Fear factor You’re an adrenaline junkie and you’re right out of patience KEY 104 Extreme sports. in the fynbos. Someone has to: you! KEY 30 Diving. On the beach. Discover the mountain pathways. KEY 04 The Castle. KEY 44 Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. Set sail or learn the ropes first. Kids The children are restless KEY 56 Ratanga Junction. From Art Deco to pretty ugly … KEY 41 Art galleries.011 Game on! Anything with a ball will do KEY 11 Soccer. KEY 97 Scratch Patch. KEY 61 World of Birds. Keep them within these historic walls. Peace and quiet. KEY 08 Two Oceans Aquarium. KEY 06 Kayaking. or just want to learn. KEY 89 Birding. KEY 64 Horseriding. . Where to learn and where to go if you’re a pro. A fascinating glimpse into another world.
Easy to reach. KEY 59 African penguins at Boulders Beach. You will know immediately if it’s for you. . Rock. Need we say more? KEY 52 Sunset at the Blue Peter. Party central. Music to your ears There is no band like a live band KEY 43 Local music. really good. KEY 24 Delis. The perfect view of Table Mountain. All night and some of the day. Active. Yoga. Get up close and stinky. A town for flowers. Even halfway up is the best. but it beats Chapman’s! A life of leisure Sunset? Cocktail? Yes. Party Did anyone say party? KEY 15 We tell you where Harley’s Liquors is. You never know what they might lead to. Where to relax in comfort. With a view across Table Bay. The End. great views over the city and mountain. Kalk Bay Theatre. KEY 84 Whisky bar. Nice things to munch. KEY 58 Vintage cars. dancing and comedy talent. KEY 74 Spas. KEY 09 Jazz. KEY 49 Lion’s Head. KEY 103 Bookshops. at gentle speeds KEY 45 Blouberg beach walk. KEY 86 Cocktails. at the beach. brightly painted cottages. hip hop and whatnot. but not that active You like the outdoors. KEY 25 De Waterkant. For a little bit of classy contemplation. Why drive something boring? KEY 81 The best coffee shops. Cool places to relax and mingle. in the city. fine food and theatre. please! KEY 13 Afternoon tea at the Mount Nelson Hotel. Cobbled streets. KEY 100 Casinos. KEY 51 Signal Hill. Photography The best places for your photographic kicks KEY 16 The Bo-Kaap. gyms and more. It’s good. Our guide to the finest ones in town. Scenic drive par excellence along the Atlantic. Darling. KEY 75 Exercise.012 ITINERARIES KEY 42 KEY 66 KEY 99 Theatre. Discover local acting. Don’t tell anyone. The local grooves are here. Because reaching for a book is exercise. A special evening of theatre and dining. KEY 53 Chapman’s Peak. KEY 86 Cocktails. With a view. KEY 92 Scenic drive to Rooiels. KEY 85 Any other bar.
A rare treat of solitude and scenic splendour. with reason! Long stay Enough time to become a regular somewhere KEY 27 Sea Point Main Road. KEY 33 Fish and chips. Holler like a local. KEY 50 Breakfast at Rhodes Memorial. A town surrounded by wine farms. A town famous for food. KEY 73 Groot Constantia. KEY 77 Minibus taxi ride. KEY 40 Alternative markets. KEY 71 Stellenbosch. Plan around the year’s big parties. KEY 69 Annual events. Except you. drink beer. KEY 14 Flower sellers. Quirky things to do You did what on your holiday? KEY 58 Cruise a classic. KEY 39 Fresh foodstuffs. Because it is nice. . KEY 80 Mzoli’s. the wines to choose KEY 67 The Winelands. Hire a vintage Beetle. dine. KEY 101 Braai. The heart of the South African wine industry. There are days when it’s caviar. The big daddy of wine farms. Surprise your hosts with a gift. Find your favourite Korean restaurant. KEY 105 Franschhoek. Fine cuisine and fine wines. Buy an old lamp or two … Five Classic Cape Keys Our choice KEY 20 Noon Gun. KEY 102 Bain’s Kloof Pass. Eat meat. Go catch your own crayfish in the Atlantic. Where to eat and buy healthy. Find a place to worship. drive and hike. KEY 83 Spier. meet people. Lots of it. KEY 112 Strandloper. KEY 70 Paarl. But not necessarily in that order. KEY 105 Franschhoek.013 Wine The places to go. It’s long and no tourists go there. KEY 32 Gatsby? Get a grip on local grub. The raw and the beautiful. And discover your inner sausage. Dine at moyo restaurant. Dining For every taste there’s a table KEY 36 Sushi. KEY 87 Sea fishing. It’s twelve o’clock in the Republic! KEY 60 Voortrekker Road. Wine. KEY 98 Religion. Eat seafood on the beach.
. as seen from near the Lower Station (see front map. and the destroyer of the ships which tried to round it. Look closely and you’ll see this ‘tablecloth’ is never still. the flat top of the mountain is covered by a seemingly frozen wave of cloud. For some it is a giant playground in which to hike. Like the Eiffel Tower and the pyramids of Egypt. A 16th-century Portuguese poet called it Adamastor. harbouring rare fynbos and animal life (South Africa’s rarest frogs are found here). climb and cycle. its iconic outline is known all over the world. called it Hoerikwaggo. Opposite: The cable car. Table Mountain appears hyperreal. key 1). During your time spent in its shadow you will get to know its rhythms and moods which so often affect the rhythms and moods of the people who call Cape Town – the Mother City – home. streets and pavements just soak up the sun out of a cloudless sky. What makes the mountain so impressive is that its great height (1 087 metres at Maclear’s Beacon. But more often than not. the mountain of the sea. the guardian of the far-flung Cape. always moving. a piece of architecture so superior that everything else looks like cardboard by comparison.014 TABLE MOUNTAIN SCENIC BEAUT Y KEY 01 Table Mountain Table Mountain is Cape Town’s unmovable emblem. It has impressed people through the ages. the Khoi (or Khoekhoen). For yet others it is Above: Looking out over the Twelve Apostles and Camps Bay from the top of Table Mountain. a solid talisman around which city life revolves. Today it is many things to many different people. There are baking midsummer days when the air doesn’t move and the city’s buildings. The early pastoralist inhabitants. For others it is a natural treasure. its highest point) rises virtually straight out of the ocean. On days like this.
The first cableway to the top of the mountain was completed in 1929. with cars and tour buses lined up along the road at the Lower Station from early in the morning. South African citizens get a free ride on their birthday (bring ID along). When in the cable car. At the Upper Cableway Station. bistro and bathroom facilities. and try to gauge what the weather will do.net . Table Mountain Aerial Cableway on 021 424 8181 and www.30 am and 6 pm. Give yourself more than enough time and be prepared to queue during peak times – you cannot book in advance as trips are weather dependent. even in the late afternoon. There are also clearly laid-out pathways (most of which are wheelchair friendly) to take you to different viewpoints. don’t be concerned that you’ll be trapped on one side of the car and unable to see the other side of the view – the cars rotate.015 ‘It is a natural treasure. with the new cars now carrying 65 people instead of just 25. The cableway can get very busy. such as discounted sunset trips. a restaurant. there are shops. It’s over all too quickly though. Check the website for updated offers before setting off. Pack something warm as it might be colder at the top of the mountain than at the bottom. reduced prices for hikers or free children’s tickets.tablemountain.’ simply something to look up at in the morning as they commute to work. From May to September it runs between 8. as the trip lasts little longer than five minutes. so you’ll see everything. harbouring rare fynbos and animal life. but the closing time becomes earlier every month after that. but the entire system was extensively upgraded in 1997. Detail: Operating hours during December and January are from 8 am to 9. There are often special offers.30 pm. Taking along a hat and sunscreen is always a good idea.
the Robben Island ferries (key 54). With the recent addition of multistorey parking garages. but the shopping centre. when you can do it all next to the ocean? With Table Mountain as a backdrop. At the heart of the Waterfront is its working harbour. which is why people flock here at weekends. The Victoria and Alfred Basins provide mooring for visiting passenger liners. . Once you’re parked. key 2). fishing trawlers offloading their catch. the fresh smell of the sea and ever-present cackle of Hartlaub’s gulls. If you want to exchange money and don’t want to head into the city to find the right facility. but there is also the South Photos: The sprawling dockside V&A Waterfront offers endless retail. this is the perfect place to do it as there are several bureaux de change. and ships being repaired in the dry docks. A major attraction is the Two Oceans Aquarium (key 8). the rest of the Waterfront can be comfortably and safely explored on foot.016 V&A WATERFRONT SHOPPIN G CENT R E KEY 02 V&A Waterfront The Victoria & Alfred Waterfront – or simply ‘the Waterfront’ – is South Africa’s most visited destination. Why do your shopping in another mall. Today. there is very little you can’t do or find at the Waterfront. or meet your friends for a meal. catamarans and yachts which can take you out into the bay for sunset cruises (key 10). parking is no problem. restaurants and entertainment options. it lures tourists and locals alike with its array of shops. hotels and other tourist facilities only sprang up at the end of the 1980s. it is the perfect place for a family outing. These basins were constructed between 1860 and 1920. leisure and dining options (see front map. As it consists by and large of a shopping centre.
The open-top city tour buses also depart from here (key 19). Head out towards the old Clock Tower. but this also means the gulls are present – they’ll head straight for your plate! Bikers like to converge (and show off with their bikes as they open the throttles on their way out) at Ferryman’s Tavern and Mitchell’s Waterfront Brewery. where a slightly calmer section of the Waterfront awaits. The Robben Island ferries also depart from the Clock Tower Precinct and right next to their berths one can often see a few Cape fur seals. But there will always be music somewhere. Fact: In 2008 a penthouse apartment in one of the exclusive residential areas of the Waterfront sold for R100 million.waterfront.’ African Maritime Museum. While you can walk from the Waterfront to the city centre (it will take about 20 minutes at most). FW de Klerk. Info on www. who have decided to make the Waterfront their home.017 ‘There is very little you can’t do or find at the Waterfront. thanks to the buskers who can be heard on a couple of corners. Albert Luthuli and Desmond Tutu. there is a large metered taxi stand across the road from the Two Oceans Aquarium. while other tastes are catered for at excellent restaurants like Balducci’s Restaurant & Sushi Bar and the Cape Town Fish Market. Quay 4 Tavern is a popular place to enjoy fish or calamari and chips as it’s right next to the sea.co. The Amphitheatre hosts musical concerts – from popular local rock bands to classical music and choirs – on Saturday and Sunday afternoons. built in 1882. The Paulaner Braühaus is a German microbrewery which serves filling Bavarian cuisine along with the house lager and Bavarian weissbier. live music and the chance to have your photo taken next to bronze statues of South Africa’s four Nobel Peace Prize laureates – Nelson Mandela.za .
key 3). Step into the South African Slave Church Museum for an unexpected breath of history.018 LONG STREET WALK & SHOP & EAT & PA RT Y KEY 03 Long Street Long Street is a busy one-way street which. from bottom to top. The Purple Turtle is. backpackers. as many restaurants. Foodwise. It’s also central to most tourist experiences of the city. purple. the lower section features a knot of popular franchises – Nando’s and KFC for chicken. peace and quiet. The first few blocks are modern-day high rises. one of the best camera stores in town. not the most attractive buildings. but representative of architectural development in the city between the 1960s (when No 2 Long Street was finished) and the 1990s (Safmarine House). At Castle Street is the popular Gourmet Burger while ‘43 on Long’ sells unusual postcards beneath the Castle Street Backpackers which has a cute balcony from where you can streetwatch. A casual wander up and down the street can take an hour or a whole day – depending on how much shopping or eating you want to do! As the traffic runs in the direction of the mountain. embodies a lot of what modern-day Cape Town is about. Skinz Leatherwear sells a full Photos: Whether day or night. Long Street is Cape Town’s shimmering. . hotels and clubs are situated in or near Long Street. Langham House Coffees is a stately coffee spot and the African Portrait Gallery next door sells fine paintings. At the corner of Shortmarket Street is Shap’s Cameraland. well. It’s free and the giant pulpit which dates from 1824 is something to see. Kauai for something healthier – in the block between the Waterkant and Strand Street intersections. let’s start our walk at the bottom end. bustling artery of the everyday and the extraordinary (see front map.
Mr Pickwicks is famous for its Oreo-cookie milkshakes and is a good place to pick up flyers advertising parties in town.’ springbok skin suit and Tribal Trends is chic with the Pan African Market being where you really want to go for African curios (see key 76). . Portobello Café is a haven for vegetarians and those who like their produce organic. Sharing this old building (1903) is Daddy Long Legs. Rcaffé coffee shop is right next to the Dorp Street Mosque (aka Noor El Hamedia Mosque). there is Tommy’s Books and the African Music Store for the best local and continental artists (many of which are difficult to find in bigger chain stores). A good guide: Walking Long Street – Cape Town by Desmond Martin is a good illustrated guide to the architecture of the whole street.019 ‘The top end of Long Street is also the hipper end. a boutique backpackers. Crossing Wale Street. which sells beautiful African dresses. just grab a samoosa at Mountain View Takeaway next door. It is for sale at Clarke’s Bookshop. just off Kloof Street. there’s the oddball clothing store Ska. This block has some antique stores such as Galleria Fortuna. Tip: Other good camera shops are ORMS Profoto on 021 465 3573. Mungo & Jemima is a clothing boutique featuring local designers’ work and the African Women’s Trading Market is a stress-free shopping zone. If you don’t have time to sit down. Nyoni’s Kraal is an African restaurant. the rooms of which were all decorated by different Cape Town creatives. but it really does tolerate all tastes. but it really does tolerate all tastes. just off Roeland Street and Photographic Repairs on 021 424 7880. The top end of Long Street is also the hipper end. followed by Masala Dosa for unusual Indian fusion food. Stones pool bar and Joburg Bar offer very different nights out. Joy’s Collectables and Sterling Antiques which are perfect for finding a posh wedding present. while Revelas Fisheries is the fish-and-chips shop of choice. Past Longmarket Street is Mali South. Crossing Dorp Street.
and the Maharajah Indian restaurant is one of the best traditional Indian restaurants in town. Long Street will be moving.’ Just up the road: Long Street’s neighbours. Parking is hard to find. By night. with an internet café below. Café Mojito has good cocktail specials and Khaya Nyama offers no-nonsense African food. Long Street will be moving. Upstairs from Royale is The Waiting Room.Lon. with more mellow live music. The Wedding DJs. parties spill out onto the street and taxis hog the lanes. Fiction is a cool night club (if you know your glitch hop from your liquid drum and bass) above Lola’s. Still Life is a small gift shop with really special pillows. Blue Mountain Backpackers is in the lovely Blue Lodge building. Loop and Bree streets are not to be forgotten – try the fantastic organic food at Bird’s Boutique Café (127 Bree Street) or sumptuous fare at Frieda’s (15 Bree Street) for lunch. there is Cake on Long. a street café where many a Saturday-night headache has been cured by a Sunday brunch. hold the fort. Party: Want to dance the night away? Hit Deluxe (cnr Long and Longmarket) for your deep/ dirty/funky mix fix or LB’s (222 Long Street. and that’s exactly what you need right now: cake.020 LONG STREET WALK & SHOP & EAT & PA RT Y ‘If everywhere else in the city seems dead. and award-winning Jardine Restaurant (185 Bree Street) for dinner to die for. The Detour Traveller’s Shop and the Travel Centre are convenient places from which to organise day trips. Nearing the top of Long Street. At the Bloem Street corner. . which ends at the Long Street Turkish Baths (see Key 21) and the St Martini German Lutheran Church. above Joburg) when the 80s specialists. Long Street Café is one of the landmarks on the street. Marvel is a tiny club where you will want to be seen with the clothing you bought at NY. Milk or Misfit after you’ve had a fantastic lamb burger at Royale across the road. Pop into the Cape Glass Studio hidden away in Vredenburg Lane. If everywhere else in the city seems dead. It always has been. Long Street is a different animal.
Detail: Castle information on 021 464 1260 and www. Dancing the night away is a great way of enjoying this special place in another way – it doesn’t have to remain a staid museum. the go-ahead was given to build a proper fort – the Castle – which was finally completed in 1679.za. The Castle also houses the oldest clock in the country. one for the gun powder and some where prisoners were kept (below sea level!). org. KEY 04 Above: The Castle is a popular class-outing for local and regional schools. This happens at 10 am and again at noon in front of the Kat Balcony. Be sure to check out the pitch black dungeons. key 4). Back then it was on the seashore. Don’t be fooled by its size. so keep an eye on the papers for forthcoming events. the beach being where Strand Street is now. where the governor used to make his speeches and proclamations.iziko. a vast collection of period art and furniture. The Castle is also a popular party venue. noon and 2 pm) to help you make quick sense of it all. A stroll through the pentagon-shaped Castle is a good introduction to the history of the Cape and there are free guided tours (at 11 am. Cape Carriage Co on 082 5755 669. The best time to go is in the morning so that you can witness the traditional ceremony during which the Castle guards hand over the keys to the commander. they built an earthwork fort situated where the present-day Grand Parade is. but it is spacious and offers many quiet nooks and crannies among its 10-metre-thick walls (see front map. . it makes a big bang! The William Fehr Collection. A very small cannon is also fired off. As there were rumours of war between the Netherlands and Britain at the time. is housed in the same building as the Kat balcony. There is a coffee shop on the premises as well as a company which organises oldfashioned carriage rides.T H E CA ST L E H E R I TAG E 021 The Castle of Good Hope When the Dutch first settled at the Cape in 1652.
run. In a way. a four star hotel renowned for its Sunday brunches which are accompanied by a live jazz band. If you start at the Sea Point Pavilion Pool (key 29) and walk in the direction of the Waterfront. Photos: From perches where waves crash at your feet. sizes and degrees of mobility as their owners bring them here for a scratch and run. the Sea Point Promenade is a people’s paradise (front map. walk. It consists of a wide. where the different citizens of the so-called Rainbow Nation come together to enjoy the same recreation area in large numbers. At Milton Beach there is a tidal pool with toilets and a large playground just beyond it. Besides people. key 5). makes it the perfect place for people-watching. The best time to visit the promenade is in the early morning or late afternoon – it all depends whether you’re a dawn stroller or a sunset sitter. South Africa does not have many places like the Sea Point Promenade. playgrounds for the kids. with plenty of grass for a kick about or game of frisbee. left) and back. safe walkway adjacent to the ocean.022 SEA POINT PROMENADE LEISURELY ST RO L L KEY 05 Sea Point Promenade For all its diversity. . it is Cape Town’s very own Central Park. The promenade stretches down the coast for only a few kilometres – roughly from Sea Point to Mouille Point – but the variety of people who flock here every day to picnic. At 221 Beach Road you’ll find Winchester Mansions. Keep an eye out towards Beach Road to spot the restaurants. you can complete a brisk hour-and-a-half walk to the Green Point lighthouse (inset. to pleasant parks for the kids and several kilometres of safe running space. dogs populate the promenade in a proliferation of colours. play and sit. clean public bathrooms and park benches fit for a sunny doze or some time with a good book.
A firm favourite is Café Bravo (121 Beach Road) for some of the best pizza in town. Geisha on 021 439 0533. cappuccinos and fresh fruit slices in season). so it’s perfect for a quiet dip – your fellow bather is bound to be a senior citizen who has come here every day for a decade or three. Detail: Winchester Mansions on 021 434 2351. the promenade comes right back towards Beach Road – across the road is La Vie Café (205 Beach Road). It sank here in 1865 and all that is visible now is a metal turret. The crowds never really come here. and cuddling and putting seem to go hand in hand). followed by the Serendipity Maze. Wakame and Wafu on 021 433 2377. This is a good place to turn around and head back to where you started. it is Cape Town’s very own Central Park. so head down a bit further to Gelato for interesting scoops of ice cream. The next notable cove is Three Anchor Bay. Café Bravo on 021 439 5260. Theo’s Grill Butcher & Seafood on 021 439 3494. At Rocklands. Wakame (sushi and seafood). In the same block you will find Newport Market & Deli (great sandwiches. Wafu (Chinese) and Geisha Wok and Noodle Bar (Asian fusion). Next up is a lively putt-putt course (it’s a couple thing. from where you can take sea-kayaking trips (see key 6). Wakame is one of the finest sundowner spots on the strip. a fine place for cocktails and pizza. . Café Neo on 021 433 0849. and Café Neo (129 Beach Road) is a Greek deli with various hot and cold dishes to suit Mediterranean palates. See if you can spot the wreck of the RMS Athens not far from the shore. but the bathing is good thanks to the kind slope into the water. The red-and-white façade of the Green Point lighthouse (built in 1824) might inspire a sweet craving in your kids. Theo’s Grill (163 Beach Road) is known for its steaks. La Vie Café on 021 439 2061.’ Rocklands Beach is small.023 ‘In a way.
While you can encounter whales anywhere along the coast between July and October. try Real Cape Adventures who do overnight trips.za .024 KAYAKING ENJOY THE SEA KEY 06 Kayaking Even if you are a complete novice.co. Above: Coastal Kayaks offer easy trips to Clifton departing from Three Anchor Bay (front map. The friendly people at Coastal Kayaks. Sea Kayak Simon’s Town on 082 501 8930 and www. kayakcapetown.walkerbayadventures. Detail: Coastal Kayaks on 021 439 1134 and www. The views will of course be spectacular.co. amongst many other outdoor activities.kayak. Real Cape Adventures on 021 790 5611 and www. key 6). You can either just fiddle around in the harbour. If you have more kayaking experience. On the other side of the peninsula. If you’re really lucky. in addition to the workout. tackling the Atlantic Ocean for a scenic paddle in a kayak is not as far-fetched as it sounds. If you’re more energetic. Coastal Kayaks can organise half-day trips. The rocks near Clifton also offer some good birding so. you might see an albatross. Walker Bay Adventures offer sea-kayaking near Hermanus.co. or you can paddle to Boulders Beach (key 59) to see the African penguins.seakayak. such as paragliding and horse trails.za. you might learn a bit more about cormorants.co. Sea Kayak Simon’s Town offers a variety of tours along the False Bay coastline. The trips last about two hours and are weather dependent.za. For West Coast and Langebaan lagoon trips. they’ll take you all the way down to Cape Point itself (a six-hour trip).za. so you won’t be made to battle a gale. but the real highlight is when a seal or pod of dolphins come over to have a closer look at your craft. Hermanus is most renowned for opportunities to spot these remarkable sea mammals (see key 113). based directly across the road at Three Anchor Bay (179 Beach Road) will guide you on a leisurely paddle from there to as far as Clifton beach and back. Walker Bay Adventures on 082 739 0159 and www.
You can sit down with the Diamond Works designers. There are also pictures of famous diamonds such as the Star of South Africa and the Cullinan. At a café corner in the shop. Olive Green Cat on 021 424 1101 (51 Wale Street).SHOP FOR DIAMONDS 025 Shop for diamonds While the town of Kimberley in the Northern Cape is South Africa’s most famous diamond town. There is also gold. platinum and tanzanite (a gemstone a thousand times rarer than diamonds) jewellery for sale. workshop tours and top designers include Jewel Africa on 021 424 5141 (170 Buitengracht Street). you can check email or help yourself to fresh coffee. Sea Point). and witness the in-store master goldsmith at work. The diamonds for sale at Diamond Works are all from South Africa. 72 Waterkant Street) and Mark Solomon Jewellers on 021 434 1254 (373a Main Road. Detail: The Diamond Works on 021 425 1970 and www. The Diamond Works on the foreshore offers a unique Sparkling Tour which starts off with a glass of sparkling wine and might just end with you digging out the credit card to buy some of the stunning diamond jewellery on offer. The Diamond Works will even pick you up at your accommodation on request. During the short tour. KEY 07 Photos: The Diamond Works offer a hands-on shopping experience (front map. you’ll learn about the cutting tools.co. make a sketch of what you think your dream ring should look like and have it made exactly to your specifications. Philip Wulfsohn Jewellery on 021 421 2628 (B12 Cape Quarter.thediamondworks. Other options for jewellery shopping. Cape Town is at the forefront of selling these precious gemstones directly to the public. . key 7). Namibia or Botswana and come with a certificate to verify their authenticity and places of origin.za. There are simple displays on the walls tracing the early history of diamonds in South Africa from the discovery of the first diamonds in 1867 near Hopetown in the Northern Cape to the heady days of the Kimberley rush. such as a tang and a scaife.
026 FOR KIDS TWO OCEANS AQUARIUM KEY 08 Two Oceans Aquarium Situated next to the harbour at the V&A Waterfront. but they buy you a day pass.30 pm daily.30 am and 2. These are from the huge kelp forests. The best times of the day at the aquarium are the feeding times. key 8). the penguins are given their snacks at 11. damsels. The Atlantic Ocean off the southern African west coast has rich fishing grounds thanks to the Benguela current. The Indian Ocean gallery displays fish found in the warm Agulhas current which brings water from the tropics southwards along the coast of Africa. sizes and colours (front map. so you can get good value for money by spending a couple of hours here. You will see surgeonfish. and the kelp forest’s inhabitants engage in a feeding frenzy at noon on Wednesdays and Sundays. the Two Oceans Aquarium has emerged as one of Cape Town’s top attractions since its opening in 1995. angelfish. Whichever Cape beaches you visit. you will see washed-up pieces of kelp. the glistening brown fronds of which are often visible Photos: The Two Oceans Aquarium offers a journey into an underwater world alive with surprising shapes. At the predator exhibit this is at 3 pm daily. which brings nutrients from the cold southern oceans. . ranging from fish such as snoek. The Atlantic Ocean gallery consists of 32 exhibits housing creatures from the colder Atlantic. and then returning for another couple of hours. breaking for lunch or shopping. to anemones and urchins (which you can touch in a special touch pool) and microscopic organisms (for which there is thankfully a microscope so that you can see them!). blue cleaner wrasse and mimic blenny. Ticket prices are quite high.
com .sakidsonthego. Through the window. there are penguins (rockhoppers and African penguins) and other birds such as black oystercatchers. white steenbras. pilchards and maasbanker. For younger children. The predator exhibit. It is one of the world’s two aquariums with such an exhibit.’ on the sea’s surface. ragged tooth sharks and giant manta rays are the superstars. Usually. will go crazy for the aquarium. so if you feel you’re being run off your feet. is in a tank with a two million-litre capacity. (Don’t break it!) Sitting in the little amphitheatre facing the tank is like watching a giant IMAX film screen: everything’s on a grand scale. swaying marine world to all its visitors. But the Two Oceans Aquarium exposes this graceful. will go crazy for the aquarium.027 ‘Kids. relax here while someone else entertains your child for a while. and are broken loose during storms or by normal wave action. Detail: Bookings (including aquarium dives) and information on 021 418 3823 and www. While there’s something for everyone here. For more kids’ activities visit www. especially.za. you can watch Cape fur seals play the fool and upstairs. where beautiful loggerhead turtles. The kelp forest consists of three giant species of kelp and is inhabited by local fish species such as galjoen (South Africa’s national fish). If you are a qualified open-water diver you can join the staff when they feed the fish in the kelp forest by special arrangement.co. at the river meander. only divers know how beautiful these kelp forests look underwater. kids.aquarium. especially. the play-centre downstairs hosts daily puppet shows and drawing classes. You can also dive in the predator tank if you really want to look a ragged-tooth shark in the eye.
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unique to the Cape. Don’t miss the Robbie Jansen Quartet. the singer Sathima Bea Benjamin. A New Orleans groove stuck after the visits of the American minstrels in the 19th century.030 JAZZ CLUBS ENTERTAINMENT KEY 09 Jazz It’s hard to say how jazz came to Cape Town. It’s a bar and restaurant. These include the Marimba Restaurant (in the Cape Town International Convention Centre) and Asokã (Kloof Street). Robbie is the Cape’s king of the alto sax.za and bookings on 021 421 7471. key 9. he took Cape Town jazz to the world while living in exile in America during the apartheid years. . Pianist Abdullah Ibrahim is probably Cape Town’s greatest jazz export. see back map. where experienced and new local players all have a go at it.1) and The Green Dolphin (front map. key 9. Photos: 021 Lounge (top. Together with his wife.co. and you’ll hear three live sets performed during the course of your dinner.greendolphin. The Green Dolphin is often the first stop for many jazz tourists. Try to catch local greats like composer Mark Fransman or young pianist Camillo Lombard. Detail: Green Dolphin line-up at www. Natascha Roth Trio. Today. Because of its convenient location in the V&A Waterfront. which helped to spark the Cape Minstrel (Klopse) festivities. there are several clubs where live jazz can be enjoyed. Asokã on 021 422 0909. Andrew Ford Trio.2) offer top-class jazz. Several restaurants in town also have a live jazz act on some nights. 021 Lounge in Wetton (1 Wetwyn Road) is famous for its Monday night jam sessions. Gavin Minter Quartet and Amanda Tiffin. Regular acts include Alvin Dyers. which still bobs around in a lot of local jazz players’ fingers. But there was also the goema rhythm. Ivan Mazuze Quartet. 021 Lounge on 021 762 2443.
co.za. key 10).co. Detail: Maharani on 083 769 4450. few can beat the crew of the Maharani. usually set off across Table Bay towards the Milnerton lighthouse and then turn back to catch the sunset from the shelter of Granger Bay.za. The Sea Horse on 021 419 3122 and www. trips to Hout Bay’s seal colony and even a braai cruise! KEY 10 Above: The Maharani’s friendly service will ensure that your sunset cruise is as pleasant and relaxing as it should be (front map. Waterfront Boat Co on 021 418 5806 and www.waterfrontboats.co. Tigger 2 Charters on 021 790 5256 and www. friendly service. Southern Cross and the 74-foot catamaran Sea Princess – go around Green Point and then as far as Clifton. The boats are active throughout the day (departing almost hourly) and some trips. The sailing-boats. enjoy the magnificent surroundings with friends and a glass of sparkling wine. The trips last about one-and-a-half hours.za . Included in your ticket price is a glass of bubbly and there’s a cash bar for further refreshments. you can visit a colony of Cape fur seals (see key 55). are perfect for taking along the kids as you explore the nooks and crannies of the harbour.theseahorse.tiggertoo. The Sea Horse is a floating restaurant and Tigger 2 Charters offer sunset cruises. mid-afternoon or sunset trip on this yacht will make you feel like a millionaire. such as the harbour seal cruise. nothing beats a sunset cruise out of the V&A Waterfront. For professional. the Spirit of Victoria (a 58-foot gaff-rigged schooner) and Esperance. A morning.S U N S E T C R U I S E O N TA B L E BAY 031 Sunset cruise There are many reasons to go out onto the ocean around the Cape Peninsula: at Hout Bay. The others – Condor. from Simon’s Town you can set out in search of breaching great white sharks (key 68) or you can hit the Robben Island ferry for a historical journey (key 54). The Waterfront Boat Company has both sailing-boats and motorised vessels. But if you’d rather just take it easy.
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but the new one has increased seating capacity to 70 000. Their nickname is ‘The Urban Warriors’ and although they came achingly close to victory in 2007/2008. after the World Cup. Santos and Ajax Cape Town. As hosts to the 2010 FIFA World Cup. soccer is hugely popular in Cape Town. The stadium is set to host eight matches during the competition. The World Cup Stadium is in Green Point (front map. South Africa has been in a state of hyperactivity in anticipation of this enormous event. become a taxpayer’s burden. The new stadium will be surrounded by a recreational park. the latter is affiliated to the famous Dutch club of the same name.2). after Seven Stars (where Blackburn Rovers’ Benni McCarthy started out) and Cape Town Spurs joined forces under the wing of Ajax Netherlands. The old Green Point stadium had seating for only 18 000 fans. but you will find their fans (inset) everywhere. with over 100 000 registered players in the city. The city has two teams in the Premier Soccer League. Outside of World Cup fever. Ajax Cape Town came into being in 1999. key 11. . The development of the stadium was opposed by many citizens of Green Point. there is plenty of other soccer to watch and in which to participate.034 SOCCER SPORT KEY 1 1 Soccer The world’s favourite sport is also Cape Town’s favourite sport. with the site of the old Green Point stadium having undergone a radical overhaul. and will also be used for rugby matches and music concerts after the World Cup. including a semi-final. new stadiums have been built and existing ones upgraded.1) to many an empty plot on the Cape Flats. they have never won the PSL (National League Photos: From Athlone Stadium (back map. key 11. Across the country. Kaizer Chiefs might be based in Gauteng. who feared that the new development would change the character of the suburb and. The Cape Town city skyline has changed.
fifa. Detail: FIFA World Cup information on www.za.com. Santos FC is nicknamed ‘The People’s Team’ and they play their home games at Athlone Stadium. have one of the biggest support bases countrywide and you’re likely to encounter their fans at Athlone Stadium even during a Santos versus Ajax CT derby.za. Santos FC on 021 696 8193 and www.za . Kaizer Chiefs. you should say: ‘Amakhosi for life!’ And a new friend will be made through soccer.greenpointcommon. Ajax Cape Town on 021 930 6001 and www. so whichever bar you’re in will be screening matches ranging from local to European club games throughout the year. Buy one if you can – you’ll be surprised how many people.035 ‘In solidarity. English club soccer is closely followed here. Both teams have very active youth programmes and women’s teams. as the Kaizer Chiefs are also known. Arsenal and Liverpool stickers.co. they temporarily share Athlone Stadium with Santos as their home ground. a beautiful 30 000-capacity stadium in Lansdowne. While most of their players are South African. In solidarity. you should say: “Amakhosi for life!” And a new friend will be made. will come up to you and say something about the Amakhosi. they have also had nationals from elsewhere in Africa in their squad in recent years.co. Santos was founded in 1982 in the Cape Flats suburb of Heideveld.’ title). and you’ll see minibus taxis proudly displaying Manchester United.santosfc. Many street vendors (especially around the Cape Town station) sell Kaizer Chiefs beanies or peak caps.co. though based in Gauteng. They won the PSL championship in the 2001/2002 season. Green Point Common on www. Local satellite broadcaster DStv has a host of sports channels. from fuel attendants to shop owners. While their offices are based in Parow.ajaxct.
during which competitors overnight at the Waterfront. A number of yachting clubs set around the peninsula will be happy to welcome you as a visitor.liptoncup. which happens in March or April. Afterwards. Their first moorings were roughly where the Cape Town International Convention Centre stands today. but when these were filled in during the land reclamation works of the 1940s and 1950s.036 YAC HTING ENJOY THE OCEAN KEY 12 Yachting If you know how deep a fathom is.co. key 12). During summer. try the Good Hope Sailing Academy which is based at the RCYC. Detail: Royal Cape Yacht Club on 021 421 1354. Established in 1905. the Royal Cape Yacht Club (RCYC) is the peninsula’s premier club with more than 3 000 members. If you’re a beginner looking for sailing lessons. Zeekoevlei Yacht Club on 021 705 3373. they moved clubhouse to their current location. A big event on the Cape yachting scene is the century-old Lipton Cup race. False Bay Yacht Club on 021 786 1703.za . the False Bay Yacht Club also offers moorings for visiting yachts. They organise the Governor’s Cup from Table Bay to St Helena Island every two years. you might long for a bit of yachting action during your stay at the Cape. Lipton Cup on www. Gordon’s Bay Yacht Club on 021 856 3263. On the other side of the peninsula. the clubs have races on Wednesday evenings (in addition to yearround weekend races) making it a good day to go to the RCYC to see if anyone needs a crew member. Above: The Royal Cape Yacht Club (front map. Hout Bay Yacht Club on 021 790 3110. HBYC also organises the Hout Bay to Waterfront race. the party in the bar is just about obligatory. Good Hope Sailing Academy on 021 424 4665. which started after Sir Thomas Lipton donated a trophy in 1909. The Hout Bay Yacht Club’s (HBYC) premier event is the three-day long Admiral’s Regatta.
either inside or outside depending on the weather. KEY 13 Photos: An afternoon feast is served at the Mount Nelson Hotel (front map. but people flocked to this newly opened luxury hotel anyway to party their troubles away.’ Bookings: Mount Nelson Hotel on 021 483 1000. though. which is a ‘lighter’ affair on the food front. If you’re not staying over at the hotel. It opened in 1899.30 am to 12. as it’s so neatly hidden away in a large block above the top end of the Company Gardens. afternoon tea is serious business. Unmissable when you drive along Allandale Road. You can choose from any tea imaginable. when the South African War (also known as the Anglo-Boer War) broke out. whether sweet (delicate fudge.30 pm to 5. are the giant columns of the Prince of Wales Gate (inaugurated during his royal visit in 1925). make sure you attend the traditional afternoon tea. Undeniably colonial in nature. . Other hotels that offer excellent tea sessions are the Twelve Apostles Hotel (view over the Atlantic) and the Table Bay Hotel (view over the harbour and Table Mountain). the Mount Nelson (or the ‘Nellie’ as some affectionately call it) has sustained its class and held its own in a time when many other luxury hotels have sprung up across the city. Served from 2. while the snacks on the buffet have something delectable for every tooth. ‘The snacks on the buffet have something delectable for every tooth.B E D E CA D E N T L AV I S H T E A S E S S I O N S 037 Afternoon tea at the Mount Nelson One would think that opening a hotel on the eve of war would be a bad idea. but the Mount Nelson Hotel really had no choice in the matter. Twelve Apostles Hotel on 021 437 9000. chances are that you won’t ever quite see it.30 pm. whether sweet or savoury.30 pm. key 13). Table Bay Hotel on 021 406 5000. There is also a morning tea from 9. beautiful cupcakes) or savoury (smoked salmon. quiches). Unless you’re staying at the hotel.
but ‘for R100 you can have double’ or some similar deal. sunflowers. the Adderley Street Flower Market (Trafalgar Place). gladioli. visit Giovanni’s (103 Main Road. It has been based here since about 1860. roadside pull-overs and even at red traffic lights during rush hour. Pick up a bunch in the city bowl in front of Harley’s Liquor (cnr Buitengracht & Wale Streets). Flowers commonly available include proteas.038 SHOP CIT Y FLOWER MARKET KEY 14 The Adderley Street Flower Market The Cape’s floral treasure finds its way into many a suburban home thanks to the flower sellers who do business on street corners. Green Point). or visit the sellers at Upper Orange Street and in Jutland Road. pennygum. Flowers make the perfect gift if you’ve been invited to dinner. Tucked away in a small alley near the top of Adderley Street is the heart of the industry. The sellers are a lively bunch. but with a secret code of conduct which allows them to take turns in trying to make a sale without ‘stealing’ another’s customer. and several sellers’ grandmothers also once worked this spot. tulips. also known as bird of paradise flowers. when sellers try to get rid of the last of their stock. Hang out with the ladies for a while – they’re the heart and soul of this city. key 14). roses of all colours. You’ll generally find that the bunch or bunches of flowers you’re after come to something like R60. For bargains. just off De Waal Drive. stargazer and St Joseph lilies. ericas (a local heather). . irises. each competing heavily against the other. ranunculus. Above: Gairoenisah Benjamin is one of the colourful characters who have been working at the Adderley Street Flower Market for years (front map. white arum lilies. head to the flower market at about 7 pm on a Saturday. Iceland poppies. and spectacular strelitzias. Tip: For more ornate arrangements and longer-lasting flowers. lysianthus.
But Harley’s packs a knockout punch to its competition: it’s not only open until relatively late at night (10 pm weekdays) but it’s also open on a Sunday. for there are a number of specialist wine stores in the city. a bakery and a fast-food outlet. head for the Engen fuel station (cnr Annandale and Hatfield streets). beers (including imported beers). key 15. It will save you.PA R T Y T I M E C I T Y L I Q U O R A N D W I N E S H O P S 039 Party tips The be-all and end-all of liquor stores in Cape Town is Harley’s Liquor and Wine Specialist. don’t despair. front map. Though it has a wide range of wine. If you would like to buy some good wines but don’t have time to head out to the winelands.2) is hidden away in the city. Its prominent neon sign is hard to miss if you’re driving up Buitengracht Street (on the corner with Wale Street) towards the mountain. . whiskies and sparkling wines. Wine Concepts has branches in the Lifestyle Centre on Kloof Street (shop 15) as well as in Newlands (cnr Main Street and Kildare Road). key 15. They are open until 7 pm on weekdays and 5 pm on Saturdays. KEY 15 Photos: Harley’s Liquor is on a busy corner (front map. it’s really quite a small liquor store compared to the big discount behemoths. They have a Woolworths food section. Detail: Harley’s Liquor on 021 424 1128. Caroline’s on 021 419 8984. Vaughan Johnson’s Wine Shop (Dock Road) in the V&A Waterfront also has a vast selection. At Caroline’s Fine Wine Cellar (62 Strand Street – also in the V&A Waterfront) you can book a personalised tasting.1) and Caroline’s Fine Wine Cellar (inset. Wine Concepts Kloof Street on 021 426 4401. which is unusual for a South African liquor store. during which you’ll enjoy eight top wines from the region. trust us. One more party tip: if it’s the early hours of the morning and you’re heading home hungry and parked too far away from the legendary schwarma stall in Long Street.
Malay culture brought bobotie (curried minced meat). On the culinary front.040 THE BO-KA AP HERITAGE KEY 16 The Bo-Kaap The Cape Malay community has its origins in the height of the Dutch East India Company’s trading era. who added to the local Dutch vocabulary. Photos: The Bo-Kaap (also marked as Schotse Kloof on some city maps) is a visual feast of shape. Macassar. as authorities knew that their loyal followers would come along. As the colony expanded and more farms were laid out. more labour was needed. the Malay archipelago and Indonesia. A number of Sufi leaders were forcibly moved to the Cape. and later with the new Malay slaves. frikkadel (meatballs) and blatjang (chutney) to South African cuisine. In the early days. the Cape Malay community took shape. Many of the early community leaders were in fact exiled religious leaders. key 16). The Afrikaans language also has a lot for which to thank the Cape Malay people. Sheikh Yusuf of Macassar and his handful of followers settled on a piece of empty land on the other side of the Cape Flats – today this town carries his name. . The Dutch had trade settlements in Java. but skilled artisans were also brought in from other trade settlements. and the new halfway stop at the Cape was an important refuelling point for their ships. bredie (stew). In this way. Cape Town was a mixed society and many white males had children with Khoi women. Local Khoi pastoralists were employed. colour and texture for photographers (front map. In this way they influenced the language which was to become Afrikaans and were in fact the very first writers of the earliest Afrikaans scripts – written in Arabic script by Muslim leaders.
where the friendly Misbach family cook some of the best food you’ll find. is where many a chef or household cook comes to buy the best spices. but has become a popular tourist stop thanks to its authentic Malay food. colourful neighbourhood. It is a small area. with the cobbled streets and brightly painted houses making it a feast for the photographer. grains and rice. Atlas Trading on 021 423 4361. A walk around the area reveals a vibrant. Bo-Kaap Guided Tours on 082 423 6932. Noon Gun Tea Room and Restaurant on 021 424 0529. Specialities include denningvleis (lamb stew). . Unlike District Six. and is becoming so again now. drive out to the edge of the city bowl to the Noon Gun Tea Room (just follow Longmarket Street up to its very end). They have their own small herb garden in the back. On the corner of Wale and Rose streets is the Rose Corner Café where you can buy sweetmeats. with minimum fuss. it was spared the destructive wrath of the Group Areas Act during apartheid. For a Malay meal with a view. ask if you can have a look. it was spared the destructive wrath of the Group Areas Act. Biesmiellah Restaurant (2 Wale Street) is an unassuming place. herbs. you can’t go wrong. curries and rotis.041 ‘Unlike District Six. With bobotie or breyani as mains and koeksisters (sweet confectionary) or milk tart for dessert. a famous Cape spice shop just one shop down from the Rose Corner Café. lying between Buitengracht Street and the foot of Lion’s Head (aka the Lion’s Rump). Atlas Trading. Locals also eat there – the food is just too good to stay away. Detail: Biesmiellah Restaurant on 021 423 0850. nuts.’ The Bo-Kaap has always been home to Cape Malay people. so if they’re not too busy. even though its makeup was more cosmopolitan in the early 1800s.
0042 KEY 16 Bo-Kaap Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
0043 pull quote .
so orange and lemon trees were planted. and was three times larger than the lush park of the same name that visitors can now stroll through. Many also come here during their lunch-hour to meet friends outside the confines of their offices. while walking around in the garden. Photos: Whether a leisurely stroll or staring down a squirrel is your thing. Hendrik Boom. its shaded walkway busy during most of the day as a popular short-cut for locals from the city into the neighbourhood of Gardens. Cecil John Rhodes stands here. pointing towards a new hinterland in the north. . Vitamin C was vital in the fight against the seaman’s scourge. Government Avenue bisects the gardens neatly. later to become Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe). In 1889 Rhodes and Major Frank Johnson hatched their plan to annexe Mashonaland. Today it serves as a great green lung for the centre of Cape Town and is open to the public from 7 am to 7 pm. The Garden was once worked by as many as 300 slaves. using water from the Varsrivier (Fresh River) which runs an invisible course under the concrete of the city these days. It was the halfway mark for Dutch trade ships en route between Europe and the East. although it’s not advisable to walk through the gardens at night. key 17). The Company Garden was laid out by Jan van Riebeeck’s head gardener. scurvy. it’s always safer to walk in a small group. Each statue in the gardens tells a story.044 THE C OMPANY GARDENS CIT Y PAR K KEY 17 The Company Gardens The main purpose of the early Dutch settlement at the Cape was to serve as a ‘refreshment station’. As with most of the city. the Company Gardens offer respite for all (front map. finger aloft.
you can gain access to the South African Museum and Planetarium. It is home to the Gardens Tennis Club. From the Company Gardens.’ Walking up Government Avenue from the bottom. On your left. the official office of the president of the country when he is in Cape Town. the National Gallery. They serve good scones and make a mean burger and the eatery is an excellent place to relax and plot your next foray into the city. where it runs into busy Annandale Road. the impressive building on your immediate right is St George’s Cathedral. nearly one kilometre later. Molteno Road and Upper Orange Street is De Waal Park. designed by Sir Herbert Baker. There is tight security. Behind it is part of the South African National Library. which is a good place to go walking. you will see the South African Parliament and then Tuynhuys. so you won’t be able to get much of a look-in. . as you walk up the avenue. brought here on order of Cecil John Rhodes. Or try this one: Wedged between Camp Street. running or picnicking. bordering the perimeter wall against Queen Victoria Street. The cobbled pathway of Government Avenue comes to an end. The squirrels are American in origin. under the large trees. the SA Jewish Museum and Cape Town Holocaust Centre (see key 18). These are perfect for feeding just about anything that moves in the gardens. You can purchase small bags of peanuts here from informal traders. is a tearoom with tables outside. where Adderley and Wale streets meet. from the ducks to the pigeons to the many squirrels which call the oak-lined Government Avenue home. Located roughly halfway up the gardens. directly opposite the front entrance of the Mount Nelson Hotel (key 13).045 ‘It serves as a great green lung for the centre of Cape Town.
org. Opposite: The street map of the razed District Six.co. the old Cape Supreme Court. Housed in the original Slave Lodge (1679). the building has seen several occupants over the past 300 years. District Six Museum on 021 466 7200 and www. Detail: Slave Lodge on 021 460 8200 and www. Its interactive installations explore slavery at the Cape. literally placing the visitor inside the milieu.za. The empty land left by the bulldozers can still be seen today.046 CIT Y MUSEUMS HERITAGE KEY 18 Museums of the city SLAVE LODGE The Slave Lodge (cnr Adderley and Wale streets) is arguably the most significant museum in the Cape. Above: The impressive front façade of the Slave Lodge (front map. key 18. from being used as government offices (1810). a post office and eventually the SA Cultural History Museum (1960). DISTRICT SIX MUSEUM The excellent District Six Museum (25a Buitenkant Street) exposes one of the biggest injustices of the apartheid era: the destruction of an entire neighbourhood and the forced removal of 60 000 people to the Cape Flats. and the role this halfway house played during a time when slavery was a big global business.3). such as Tramway Road (Sea Point) and Protea Village (near Kirstenbosch) are also commemorated. key 18. not far from the museum.1). other communities which were affected at the same time. a library.za .iziko. Until its conversion into government offices. places the visitor literally inside the layout of this once vibrant city neighbourhood (front map.districtsix. A prominent feature of the museum is the street map of the erased neighbourhood which has been painted on the floor. In addition to District Six. it is estimated that up to 9 000 slaves lived in the building over the years.
Planetarium on 021 481 3900 and www.za. Gardens) houses one of the finest collections of art in South Africa. is impressive. What is on display. is housed in the same complex as the museum and gives a fascinating glimpse into the story of the universe via the stars above us.iziko. The Planetarium. stamps and clothing. birds and reptiles.iziko.org. the collection also includes international work. ceramics.org. Detail: SA National Gallery on 021 467 4660 and www. painting and sculpture is represented. weaponry. including beadwork. SA Museum on 021 481 3800 and www. ranging from fossils.047 ‘The empty land left by the bulldozers can still be seen.za . rocks and minerals to a giant whale skeleton. The social history collection includes toys. Michaelis Collection on 021 481 3933.za. gifts and artefacts. SOUTH AFRICAN MUSEUM & PLANETARIUM The South African Museum (25 Queen Victoria Street) houses both natural history and social history collections. furniture.iziko. with its distinctive dome. Every conceivable art form.org. It’s a great outing for kids and the perfect time to learn about the stars of the southern skies. though. with nearly 500 000 items stored away and not on public display. not far from the museum. Be sure to also see the Michaelis Collection housed in the Old Town House in Greenmarket Square.’ SA NATIONAL GALLERY The South African National Gallery (Government Avenue. Collections have been 200 years in the making. video art. Besides contemporary and historically important local art. The museum has a very good shop if you’re looking for some unusual books.
key 18.za. IRMA STERN MUSEUM Tucked away near the historic Mostert’s Mill in Rosebank lies the Irma Stern Museum (Cecil Road).4). The complex traces the history of the South African Jewish community. key 18. Irma Stern (1894–1966) was a renowned South African artist and held over 100 solo exhibitions. a shop which sells South African Jewish artefacts and an extensive library. which also has a kosher café.048 CIT Y MUSEUMS HERITAGE ‘Collections have been 200 years in the making. as her art was deemed too risqué for the conservative mainstream of the time. for almost 40 years. but she initially struggled to get recognition in South Africa.2). Detail: SA Jewish Museum on 021 465 1546 and www. most of who came from Eastern Europe between 1880 and 1930. The Firs. and provides some fascinating comparisons between the laws of Nazi Germany and apartheid South Africa. The Cape Town Holocaust Centre (88 Hatfield Street) is the only such centre in Africa and is next door to the museum.’ Above: This blue whale skeleton is a central display in the SA Museum (front map. Cape Town Holocaust Centre on 021 462 5553 and www.co. The Gardens Synagogue next door was opened in 1905 to accommodate larger numbers.co. There is a reconstructed shtetl in the museum. SA JEWISH MUSEUM & CAPE TOWN HOLOCAUST CENTRE The SA Jewish Museum is situated on the site of the Old Synagogue next to the Company Gardens (also accessed from Hatfield Street).za . She lived in this house.co. Opposite: Inside the South African Holocaust Centre (front map.za. It is regarded as a centre for learning about human rights. ctholocaust.sajewishmuseum. It is home to a permanent collection of her own work and houses rotating exhibitions by other artists too.irmastern. Irma Stern Museum on 021 685 5686 and www.
heartofcapetown.’ BO-KAAP MUSEUM The entire neighbourhood of the Bo-Kaap is really a living museum.za . it mostly contains gold ornaments from the gold-rich West African kingdoms. and its inhabitants.049 ‘There is a reconstructed shtetl in the museum. The Heart of Cape Town Museum is at the hospital and offers guided two-hour tours (on booking only) which will tell you more about the long night of the operation.com. who subsequently achieved worldwide fame. The collection is updated all the time. Detail: Bo-Kaap Museum on 021 481 3939. GOLD OF AFRICA MUSEUM This museum celebrates exactly what its name suggests: gold as used through the ages in Africa.co.goldofafrica. HEART OF CAPE TOWN MUSEUM The world’s first successful human-to-human heart transplant was performed in the city’s Groote Schuur Hospital in 1967 by Dr Christiaan Barnard. Based in the historic Martin Melck House (96 Strand Street). Gold of Africa Museum on 021 405 1540 and www. and the museum offers jewellery making courses. as well as visiting exhibits from other continents. with cutting-edge jewellery designs on display. The Bo-Kaap Museum (71 Wale Street) is a social history museum which attempts to explain the complexities of the neighbourhood. to the visitor. Heart of Cape Town Museum on 021 404 1967 and www. with very little having changed there over the past 100 years and more. There is both a shop and restaurant.
the City Sightseeing buses set out from outside the Two Oceans Aquarium (front map.050 EASY TOUR BY OPEN-TOP BUS KEY 19 Cape Town by open-top bus City Sightseeing Cape Town does a simple thing very well. sunscreen and a warm item of clothing as weather conditions can vary considerably at different parts of the tour. you can hop on or off at any stop. It’s a round trip. along Victoria Road to the President Hotel. the Cape Town International Convention Centre.za. and then back to the Atlantic seaboard’s scenic drive along Victoria Road until you reach Camps Bay and then the Waterfront. key 19). French. the South African Jewish Museum. German and Italian) by a qualified guide on the buses. across Constantia Nek to the World of Birds in Hout Bay. The Blue Route follows the same course as far as the tourism office. the District Six Museum. through Sea Point and back to the Waterfront. Hout Bay harbour. the Table Mountain Cableway station.citysightseeing. Above: Seen here driving under the Twelve Apostles towards Camps Bay. the South African Museum. down towards Camps Bay. There is running commentary in English (with abbreviated notes in Portuguese. Presuming you start from outside the Two Oceans Aquarium at the V&A Waterfront. Their buses run two set routes past Cape Town’s major attractions. Detail: 021 511 6000 and www. The buses run from 9. Pack a hat. Imizamo Yethu township. you just get off where you started (or anywhere you like). The distinctive red buses come past each stop frequently. St George’s Cathedral. the Castle.co. but then heads southwards around Devil’s Peak to Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. the Cape Town Tourism office in Burg Street. Spanish. . Once you’ve bought a ticket. so at the end.30 am to 6 pm (with seasonal variations). the Red Route goes past the Clock Tower (part of the V&A Waterfront). the Gold of Africa Museum.
Since 1902. follow the brown Noon Gun signs from Upper Leeuwen Street where it turns out of Buitengracht. Stroll down the path to the Noon Gun Tea Room (021 424 0529) afterwards. two 18-pounder smooth-bore muzzle loaders have been announcing 12 pm since 1902. later moved the guns to their current position because they were making too much of a racket in town. Directions: To reach the Noon Gun. For precision tuning of their clocks it was better to look for the puff of smoke rather than lose the extra few seconds it would take for the sound to carry. This is one show you can’t be late for. eventually. Dudley Malgas has been firing the cannons for more than a decade and a half now and gives a short but interesting lecture on the cannons to assembled tourists before it’s fired. The British.N O O N G U N H E R I TAG E 051 The Noon Gun Don’t be alarmed if you hear a loud boom sounding out across the city bowl at noon every day. in 2005. The guns used to be down at the Castle. the Waterfront and Green Point (front map. The puff of smoke could also be seen better from there by the ships at anchor. noon. the cannons have only been quiet once. when the backup charge also failed to fire. who took control of the Cape from the Dutch in 1806. That just means that all is well and that the cannon fired successfully. so give yourself extra time to get there. in the suburb of Observatory. key 20). Cannon? Situated above the Bo-Kaap on the slopes of Signal Hill. later at 1 pm and. He actually only loads a charge into the cannons (both are loaded in case one misfires) as they are fired electronically from the South African Astronomical Observatory. where the Misbach family prepares some of the city’s finest Malay food. where they were first used to announce the arrival of new ships in the harbour and later to indicate a certain time of day – at first they were fired at sunset. the Noon Gun also offers a good view over the city. . And remember to cover your ears! KEY 20 Above: Besides one almighty bang.
Sunday mornings (until noon) and all day on Wednesdays and Fridays. . Opening and closing times vary slightly from day to day. The Long Street Baths were opened in 1908 and the Turkish Bath section in 1927. it’s hard to remember that rush-hour traffic and a sidewalk full of people are only a few metres and walls away. but are in general 8. It’s unassuming from the outside. Men get Tuesday afternoons (after 1 pm).30 am to 7 pm. but inside the space opens up to reveal a lovely heated pool and interesting mosaics on the walls. There are changing rooms and a Turkish bath. Thursdays and Saturdays and on Tuesday mornings (until 1 pm). This Victorian interpretation of the Turkish bath reached other Anglo countries like Canada. It is run by the City Council and you can get a massage and a Turkish bath for under R100. the Turkish bath was taken up by the English from 1860 onwards. The Long Street Turkish Baths are situated at the very top end of Long Street. Inside the building. Australia and New Zealand long before the first one was opened in South Africa. You can also simply come for a swim – there are several regulars who do laps. key 21). but a few hours spent at the Baths can still be a relaxing escape from the hustle and bustle outside. Above: The spacious swimming pool section of the Long Street Baths is open to men and women throughout the week (front map. when hundreds of baths were opened in Britain. Detail: Long Street Turkish Baths on 021 423 9849. The pool is open to everyone throughout the week.052 LONG STREET BATHS SWIM & SAUNA KEY 21 Long Street Baths Though the concept is obviously Turkish in origin. You can’t compare it to the facilities and services available at upmarket spas in town. The Turkish bath facility is open to women all day on Mondays.
the theatre was opened in 1949 by Princess Ida Louise Labia.30 am with the last film starting at 8. Animal Rights and the Environment. A small café lies at the entrance. fine popcorn and a café full of movie fundis (front map. starting at 11. They are always up for a chat. unlike what you might experience at a big cinema complex. A highlight of the Cape film year is Encounters. the Labia’s intimate. pigeons wander into the foyer to snack on stray kernels of popcorn. In contrast. The cinema also hosts speciality film festivals along themes such as Horror. popcorn. old-fashioned theatres remain one of the best places to see art-house films in Cape Town.co.30 pm. During the day. but it’s the four old theatres on Orange Street which are the really charming ones.labia.za. the popcorn stand. Encounters Documentary Film Festival on www. Named after Prince Natale Labia.za for the line-up. KEY 22 Above: The Labia Theatre on Orange Street has retro charm. modern shopping malls. It is hosted at the NuMetro complex in the V&A Waterfront. and between them hold a good collective memory of the theatre. the Italian consul to South Africa during the first half of the 20th century.za . Detail: Labia on Orange at 68 Orange Street and Labia on Kloof in the Lifestyle Centre. co.encounters. There are two new screens in the Lifestyle Centre on Kloof Street. the ticket counter and the theatre doors have been working here for a long time. Out in Africa Gay & Lesbian Film Festival on www. The Out in Africa Gay & Lesbian Film Festival is hosted there during September.oia. Call 021 424 5927 or see www.co. key 22). where coffee. an extensive documentary film festival usually held during July.T H E L A B I A R E T RO C I N E M A 053 The Labia Theatre There are many places to watch a movie in Cape Town and its surrounding suburbs but these cineplexes are found in typically soulless. There are generally five screenings per day. a muffin or a glass of wine can be ordered. The people who man the shop. Russian films.
This trendy stretch is centred around City Varsity (a media and creative arts school) and the Long Kloof Studios of local TV-channel e-tv. which is hard to find elsewhere in the city) and sushi. no matter how outlandish your request. Foodwise you can choose between Caramello’s coffee shop and Kauai and for entertainment there is the Labia Theatre (see key 22). Lifestyle on Kloof is an upmarket shopping centre with a Woolworths. Biblioteq Bookshop. Exclusive Books and PostNet (pricier but providing more peace of mind than the Post Office). that’s its name). It culminates in and revolves around the Vida e Caffé. But a walk up the street during daytime will reveal great shopping opportunities and it’s an ideal time to scout out a place at which to dine in the evening. The Opal Lounge. Kloof Street appears far more sedate. Scar Hair will cut your hair whichever way required. situated in a Victorian-style villa. budget-friendly family restaurants. key 23). Limnos Bakers. naga. Shopping tip: Check out the cute Woo-men dolls at ‘a store’ (021 422 2888). Photos: Beetles and Vespa scooters add retro flair to Kloof Street (front map. there is a chic eatery called Depasco Café Bakery and Tong Lok. . and bookshops such as Eddie Zoom. for quick and affordable Chinese (including dim sum. In the same area you will find a host of fashionable clothing. toy. is a new restaurant at this end of the street. Starting at the bottom end (from the top of Long Street). St Elmo’s pizza and Ocean Basket form a nice trio of choices as relaxed.054 KLOOF STREET WALK & SHOP KEY 23 Kloof Street Lacking the charm of Long Street’s Edwardian and Victorian buildings by day and its happening clubs and bars by night. Hi-Five and ‘a store’ (yes.
The incline of the street now gets quite steep as you see Gainsbourg. video store. Da Vinci (pizza and gourmet burgers) is underneath. an excellent Vietnamese restaurant (also good sushi). the best dried sausage in town. healthy snacks) and Shelley’s Gourmet Café and Melissa’s (two decadent delis). but let’s not start a fist-fight). liquor store and Mixa’s Schwarma. especially their pizzas). At the top end of the street there is Bacini’s (excellent Italian. Heartworks sell unique. At Topolino Café next door you can buy everything from tennis balls to braai briquettes to onions and oranges. Buzz (fast. Café Paradiso is a place for hearty meals and hunkering down with some red wine. Gardens Continental Butchery & Seafood Warehouse is small but has an excellent range of fresh meat and fish (and. Zucca Lounge (Italian). Facing the Jan van Riebeeck High School are Toni’s (Mozambican and Portuguese). a fine coffee shop. Shopping tip: Mielie handbags come in fantastic designs – they are for sale at Heartworks (98 Kloof Street). some claim.055 ‘A walk up the street will reveal great shopping opportunities. On the corner with Camp Street you can’t miss Saigon. with Asokã (delicious tapas) one door down. Fabulous (Moroccan dishes) and Liquorice & Lime which serves a recommended fruit salad that even includes Cape gooseberries. while Manna across the road is a popular fine food eatery which serves pitchers of tangy cocktails. . pharmacy.’ Situated at the bottom of a tatty block of flats is Arnold’s (famous for cheap breakfasts) and the new Café Sofia (meze and tapas). The Palmhof shopping centre houses a Checkers supermarket. homespun gifts and LIM is a minimalist sort of homeware store.
friendly conversations are the order of the day. Like Melissa’s. The baristas know all the locals by name and loud. Deli culture in Cape Town is still quite new. and many delis are just small. glorified coffee shops that sell a range of fine foods – and that’s good enough for us.056 GOOD FOOD CIT Y DELIS KEY 24 Delis Nothing quite beats the decadent goodness of sitting down in a deli and eating something delicious while paging through the newspaper or concurring with friends over coffee. but who cares.1). Delis are not cheap places at which to eat – if you wanted a quick sandwich you’d have popped in at the fuel station store anyway – but they’re fine places from which to watch the neighbourhood go by. . Opposite: Melissa’s Food Shop (front map. key 24. No-one really talks about a delicatessen here. Melissa’s Food Shop offers a great view over Kloof Street (94 Kloof Street) and its shelves hold many an edible delight – perfect for a special gift. or eat in and enjoy their delicious coffees.2). Here you can buy choice ingredients (such as cold meats) for the beach picnic you’ve got planned later in the afternoon. but our favourite is the Bantry Bay branch (19 Victoria Above: Giovanni’s Deliworld (front map. Their breakfast oats are of a consistency which hints at some great kitchen secret and is a healthy way to kickstart your day. key 24. Carlucci’s now also have a handful of stores around Cape Town and the surrounding suburbs. Agreement far and wide is that the best deli in town is Giovanni’s Deliworld in Green Point (103 Main Road). and it’s not always exactly what you might expect.
It is one of the very few places at which to eat once you’ve left Sea Point and moved onto Victoria Road heading for Clifton or Camps Bay. we thought so. at least. Sage on 021 461 7868. Raith Gourmet on 021 465 2729. where locals put their dogs’ leashes under the chair while they tuck into the sumptuous light meals on offer. sauerkraut and cheeses. Afterwards you can explore the steep streets of this attractive suburb to help your meal settle. Its porch always heaving with customers over lunchtime. Knead Bakery & Coffee Shop on 021 462 4183. Knead Bakery & Coffee Shop (McKenzie Street. Just down the road is Sage (117 Hatfield Street). Many locals go for a walk or run along this road and then make Carlucci’s their rest stop. The Daily Deli on 021 426 0250. an organic food shop which makes exotic shakes and is a popular lunch spot as they have an organic buffet feast starting at noon. Tucked away in residential Tamboerskloof is The Daily Deli (13 Brownlow Road). Come here for your fix of eisbein. broad beans and a lemon and thyme dressing? Oxtail with roast parsnip? Yup. Anyone with an appetite for honey-glazed quail with mushrooms and raspberries? Rare tuna with white asparagus. Caveau Wine Bar & Deli on 021 422 1367. bockwurst. Carlucci’s on 021 439 6476. Wembley Square) focuses on baked goods – they make 21 different breads! Raith Gourmet (Gardens Centre) is the only authentic German deli in town and it focuses on meats. this popular spot serves fine meals and fine wines to go with them.057 ‘Delis are fine places from which to watch the neighbourhood go by.’ Road). Melissa’s on 021 424 5540. In the heart of the city – or. a couple of blocks away – lies Caveau Wine Bar & Deli (92 Bree Street). . Detail: Giovanni’s Deliworld on 021 434 6893. Others just meet here and look cool wearing sunglasses while the traffic streams past.
hosting everything from Monday-night karaoke to Friday’s Frisky Disco and beyond. where the fine food and a vast collection of wines will not let you down. head for Café Manhattan’s delectable burgers (74 Waterkant Street). Cubana Latino Café & Cigar Lounge (9 Somerset Road) is big and loud. key 25). Dixon Street). The cheese platter is a must. De Waterkant is the party capital of Cape Town. The bar welcomes straights and gays alike in a celebratory atmosphere. Fiesta Tapas Café Bar on 021 418 5121. There are several nightclubs.058 DE WATERKANT PART Y TOWN KEY 25 De Waterkant Situated in a small area around Somerset Road. while a more personal venue with ‘regular’ charm is the Beulah Bar (cnr Somerset & Cobern Roads). The Bronx (22 Somerset Road) is probably the best-known gay club in Cape Town. The Nose Wine Bar on 021 425 2200. Detail: Friendly Society on 021 421 6969. bars and restaurants. and De Waterkant’s clubs are a draw-card to gay tourists and locals alike.co.capetownpride. Above: Drag artist Odidi lets loose at Friendly Society in De Waterkant (front map. Cape Town is a self-proclaimed Pink City with a proud gay community. The Bronx is famous for its topless barmen.bronx. The Fiesta Tapas Café Bar is in the trendy Cape Quarter (72 Waterkant Street) and also hosts a salsa party on Friday nights. containing an array of local nibbles. Also see www. It’s regarded as a gay bar but everyone is welcome. Friendly Society and Salsa Restaurant (125a Waterkant Street) hosts everything from salsa classes to dance parties.za .co. to the occasional drag show. creating a jovial atmosphere from early evening. Bronx Action Bar on 021 419 9216 and www. Café Manhattan on 021 421 6666. or settle down for the night inside The Nose Restaurant & Wine Bar (Cape Quarter. whose friendly demeanour and beautiful biceps are the inspiration for generous tipping.za. If you’re in the mood for a meal. often until daylight the next morning.
There’s one big difference though: Clifton is just a little harder to get to. As a result. . are worth many millions. KEY 26 Above and next pages: Clifton’s beaches are far better than any brochure might hint at (front map. Property: If you are indeed a Hollywood star. Unlike Camps Bay. and Fourth Beach is the one closest to Camps Bay. But their secret is now well and truly out. look for the signs which indicate the steps that will take you down to the beach. but every now and then a Hollywood star hides out here. which is the other road that hugs the steep mountainside here. Cairn. then Clifton is the beach Capetonians would most like to hide from the crowds. The parking area is about the size of a tennis court. towards Sea Point.cliftononsea.C L I F TO N B E AC H L I V I N G 059 Clifton If Camps Bay is Cape Town’s world famous beach.com for a pad to your liking. There are four beaches and the signs will also indicate how to find each one. even the small ‘shacks’ next to the beach. Kasteel and Biskop steps. Once you are parked above Clifton. First Beach is the one furthest to the north. which means that you have to park along Victoria Road. Real estate here. key 26). renting a beach house here is not cheap. or even on Kloof Road. for a small slice of sand between Second and Third is known as Clifton Two-and-a-half! Clifton Fourth is the biggest and most popular with the crowds and much more sheltered than Camps Bay. Several sets of stairs connect the two roads. and Clifton can get just as busy as Camps Bay during the height of summer. there are no restaurants or shops at Clifton – it’s strictly a residential area. such as Apostle. There are actually five beaches. browse www.
0060 KEY 26 Clifton Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
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Congolese and Angolans. Main Road is a hazardous street to drive down. Only a couple of blocks inland from Beach Road is Main Road. But if you are driving along Sea Point’s Beach Road. the suburb’s real artery. Sea Point’s inhabitants maintain Venezia (94b Main Road) offers the best ice cream and sorbet in Cape Town. has very reasonable prices. Aris Souvlaki on 021 439 6683.1).2). immediately. with vehicles in constant doubt over whether there are one or two lanes. . Detail: Maz Sushi Bar on 021 439 1806. Soju Bar on 021 434 3278. Opposite: The suburb of Sea Point as seen from Ocean View Drive (front map. Saul’s Saloon & Grill on 021 434 5404. its proximity remains tangible. This cosmopolitan nature is reflected in the plethora of dining choices you have down the length of Main Road.062 SEA POINT COSMOPOLITAN SUBURB KEY 27 Sea Point It is amazing how the energy changes when you round the fat foot of Signal Hill (the whole extension is actually called the Lion’s Rump) and enter the suburb of Sea Point. Japanese and now even Korean restaurants as the population mix keeps evolving. In the city. Unlike the city centre. all congregate on its corners and in its eateries. but nowadays also for people from across the continent – Nigerians. Maz Sushi Bar (127 Main Road). And keep a sharp eye out for the taxis. highway and foreshore development hide the sea from the visitor. they have a fondness for taking the inside lane when you’re not looking. There is a proliferation of Chinese. the first of its kind in Cape Town. key 27. known for its large Jewish population (the suburb has four synagogues). key 27. The Cedar Restaurant on 021 433 2546. the brightness coming from the water and the salty smell brings the ocean into your car. the harbour. and the fact that it has been open for about three decades Above: Venezia Gelateria (front map. Tom Yum Restaurant on 021 434 8139. Sea Point is a cosmopolitan suburb. RG Kabab Mahal on 021 434 0008. Mario’s Restaurant on 021 439 6644. Though you can’t see the sea from here. Posticino Ristorante on 021 439 4014. Sea Point is in active engagement with the sea.
’ provides evidence in support of its scoops’ deliciousness. mango and lemon sorbets are the finest fruity palette-cleansers that could be imagined. Some of Mario’s Restaurant (89 Main Road) patrons have been eating there every week for three decades. Saul’s offers enormous steaks and burgers at good prices. but the litchi.063 ‘Unlike the city centre. pastas and hearty mains. . complimented by the colourful marine life in its aquarium. But younger customers tend to flock to Posticino Ristorante (323 Main Road). and it’s open until 3 am. each with their own dedicated clientele. a Greek spot with superb lamb dishes. Soju Bar (359 Main Road) is a Korean restaurant with a relaxed atmosphere. The Cedar Restaurant (upstairs at 100 Main Road) serves good Lebanese food in a relaxed environment and RG Kabab Mahal (315 Main Road) is renowned as one of the best restaurants for North Indian cuisine. There are several Italian restaurants on the strip. which offers more flamboyant pizza toppings. and they swear by the fresh salads. Vegetarians will also be content with a wide array of tofu dishes. Two-tiered flavours such as rum ’n raisin and honey ’n hazelnut are among the most popular. Tom Yum Restaurant (72 Regent Road – the last section of Main Road is known as Regent Road) is a suave Asian restaurant and near the end of the strip is Aris Souvlaki (83a Regent Road). Sea Point is in active engagement with the sea. Saul’s Saloon & Grill (152 Main Road) is a renowned late-night establishment and a favourite with homebound revellers who have danced their glucose levels to zero.
everything that shouts ‘living it up!’ is at arm’s length: the ocean. then come show it off here!) The suburb which lies up towards the lower slopes of the Twelve Apostles is a well-to-do one. play beach bats or kick a ball. (Some would say you work at home on that tan. just beyond Fisherman’s Rock. safe tidal pool. with houses jostling for a view of the beautiful crescent-shaped bay. key 28). read. When you are down on the beach on a sunny day. maybe getting your head under the first wave and then sprinting back to the warmth of the sand. chances are that the daydream is set in Camps Bay. And if the wind is howling. it’s not that bad. Swimming here entails running into the icy water. be careful not to dive in the shallows as there are often hidden sandbanks. a colourful throng of people competing for space to sit. Notice how we don’t mention swimming. The best places to eat and drink are on Victoria Road. When swimming. During December and January the main beach here is packed.064 CAMPS BAY BEACH LIVIN G KEY 28 Camps Bay If someone is stuck in an office in Johannesburg and daydreaming of being on vacation in Cape Town. lie. because from here you can Photos: The Camps Bay tidal pool (above) and the adjacent beach and trendy drag filled with bars and eateries (opposite page) will keep you coming back for more (back map. Well. cocktail bars. Facing the ocean. fantastic scenery and interesting people. To the left of the main beach you will find a calm. Glen Beach lies off to the right. good restaurants. Sun-worshipping locals and tourists come here to show off their tans or to work very hard on them. but you get the picture. That’s where you’ll see the surfers when the waves are good. head for Clifton Fourth (key 27) which is more sheltered. . for the water on this side of the peninsula is never warm.
Codfather on 021 438 0782. Summerville Restaurant on 021 438 3174. If you want something with plusher seating. La Med is at the Glen Country Club just along Victoria Road. Theatre on the Bay on 021 438 3301 and www. as folk lounge under the palm trees. More or less behind the Promenade Centre (37 The Drive).’ keep your finger on it. Primi Piatti on 021 438 2923. Unlike most of the nightlife in Camps Bay. stand-up comedy and music shows throughout the year. Once the sun has set and the view becomes less of a factor. La Med on 021 438 5600. you’ll find The Codfather which has a good sushi bar and a huge selection of fresh fish and squid. Dizzy Jazz Café on 021 438 2686. It’s a bar which also serves food and there is usually a live jazz band. Dizzy Jazz Café (also in The Drive) has no pretensions. The theatre hosts plays. past Glen Beach.com.za . Detail: General info on www. Paranga on 021 438 0404. It has great outdoor seating and DJs to entertain the sometimes large crowds who gather here in summertime to will the sun down with beer and banter. Blues on 021 438 2040. so too Baraza. Sandbar (31 Victoria Road) has more of a café atmosphere and serves Mediterranean-style light meals.theatreonthebay.campsbaytourism. then head for Baraza (the name means ‘meeting place’ in Swahili) in the Promenade Centre – it’s also a fine spot for sundowners while you hatch plans for the night ahead. Baraza on 021 438 1758.co. Sinnful on 021 438 3541. explore a little further.065 ‘Everything that shouts “living it up!” is at arm’s length. Sinnful is the ice-cream shop you’ll be looking for on a hot day – it’s also in the Promenade Centre. Theatre on the Bay is near the police station on Link Street and run by South African theatre legend Pieter Toerien. cars and taxis with souped up sound-systems hump past. and the sea glistens beyond the white beach. Summerville (in the Promenade Centre) serves great cocktails.
0066 KEY 28 Camps Bay Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
Soju Bar on 021 434 3278. Tom Yum Restaurant on 021 434 8139. Mario’s Restaurant on 021 439 6644. Posticino Ristorante on 021 439 4014. RG Kabab Mahal on 021 434 0008. Aris Souvlaki on 021 439 6683 . The Cedar Café on 021 433 2546. Saul’s Saloon & Grill on 021 434 5404.0067 pull quote Details: Maz Sushi Bar on 021 439 1806.
There is an Olympic-sized pool. Its water is filtered seawater – unheated. There is a large parking lot next door with some very funny-looking trees in it.068 SEA POINT SWIMMIN G POOL KEY 29 Sea Point Pool You will struggle to find a public pool with a better setting than the Sea Point Pool. During summertime. Serious and recreational swimmers alike enjoy the facility. with families converging under a colourful collection of umbrellas to spread out their towels and settle down for the day. so winter can be a bit of an endurance test. Camps Bay tidal pool and Gordon’s Bay beach.capeswim. good places at which to swim are: Fish Hoek beach. also known as the Sea Point Pavilion. Photos: The Sea Point Pavilion Pool (front map. the pool is as popular a hangout as Clifton or Camps Bay. St James tidal pool. Other municipal pools: Observatory on 021 689 4578. with many of the Cape’s renowned long-distance swimmers using the pool to do their training. if you didn’t bring your own. It lies right on the ocean at the top end of Beach Road. key 29). Newlands on 021 674 4197. During summer. two smaller splash pools for the kids to enjoy and a fully equipped springboard diving pool. Turn around to face inland and Lion’s Head rises up above the high-rise apartments so characteristic of Sea Point. Detail: Sea Point Pavilion on 021 434 3341. you can rent an umbrella or pool lounger.30 am to 5 pm.com . Info about long-distance swimming on www. These ‘skew’ trees are the work of the prevailing wind! In addition to other municipal pools in Cape Town (see sidebar). There is a large expanse of grass and. Clovelly tidal pool. the pool is open from 7 am to 7 pm and during winter from 8. The swim to Robben Island is a feather in several swimmers’ caps here.
and a dive where you can witness Cape fur seals and great white sharks around Seal Island in False Bay. steenbras and sponges. key 30). They try to dive unusual wrecks.co. is to the wreck of the Lusitania. but dive all around the Peninsula.co. Unreal Dive on 021 553 0748 and www.za.za. If you have never dived before.piscesdivers.com. Seal Island is the only place in the world where great whites are known to breach the surface of the water in their efforts to catch seals.za .africadiver. KEY 30 Above: Pisces Divers operate out of Glencairn (back map.com. and the Brunswick. such as the SS Gelderland. There are several diving outfits which will take experienced scuba divers to some of these wrecks. Detail: Pisces Divers on 021 782 7205 and www. During dives you can see West Coast rock lobsters. you can also sign up for a beginner’s course. so Pisces also have reef dives such as Tafelberg Reef near the Sentinel at Hout Bay.unrealdive. Africa Diver on 082 564 7211 and www.scubadive.E N J OY T H E O C E A N D I V I N G 069 Diving The Cape of Good Hope was also known to early seafarers as the Cape of Storms – with good reason! The violent storms which often batter these coasts have seen the demise of many ships and they still claim a vessel every now and then. But not all divers are interested in wrecks. nudibranches. an English East-Indiaman which sank in 1805. but they dive everywhere around the peninsula. Scuba Diving Cape Town at www. Scuba Shack on 021 785 6742 and www. red romans. There are a number of companies offering similar services. tuberculate cuttlefish. an enormous Portuguese passenger liner. a navy patrol boat scuttled in 1988. colourful coral. between Fish Hoek and Simon’s Town. which we list in the sidebar. One of their most challenging dives.co. Pisces Divers are based in Glencairn.scubashack. in the dangerous waters at Cape Point.
The Cape Philharmonic Orchestra plays here and the building houses a library and some courts. of which the Blue Lodge (206-208 Long Street) is probably the most spectacular. Nelson Mandela made his first speech as a free man to thousands of euphoric citizens from the balcony of the City Hall. Many Victorian buildings still adorn Long Street. key 31. Above: The Bellville City Hall was opened at the height of the apartheid era. now a unit of the National Library of South Africa.2). Another Edwardian-era highlight is the Centre for the Book (62 Queen Victoria Street). This Edwardian building was completed in 1905 and the town administration moved their offices here from the Town House at Greenmarket Square. on 11 February 1990. flat-roofed patrician town houses. . Stellenbosch – key 71). Below: The façade of KoopmansDe Wet House (021 481 3935) was most probably designed by French architect Louis Thibault and Dutch sculptor Anton Anreith (front map. Martin Melck House (96 Strand Street) and Grosvenor House (Village Museum complex. These three buildings are the best surviving examples of two-storey. Koopmans-De Wet House was built late in the 18th century and has. like Martin Melck House (the Gold of Africa Museum). key 31.070 CIT Y ARC HITECTURE HERITAGE KEY 31 Architecture GRAND OLD DUTCH TOWNHOUSES It’s hard to imagine that well-to-do townhouses once all looked like Koopmans-De Wet House (35 Strand Street).3). the Cape Town City Hall was host to a most momentous occasion in South African history. Just hours after he was set free from prison. in 1956 (back map. THE ENGLISH HEART OF THE CITY Facing the Grand Parade on Darling Street. been converted into a museum. It was designed in 1900 and originally served as a boarding house.
It was for a long time the tallest building in Africa. ‘Almost’ – because big events are still staged here from time to time. practical spaces which can make even the most mundane convention or exhibition seem modern and relevant. designed by principal architects Revel Fox and Anya van der Merwe Miszewski. Mullers Optometrists (cnr Parliament & Longmarket streets) and Protea Assurance (cnr Longmarket Street and St George’s Mall). now known as Mutual Heights since its conversion to a residential space. has very quickly been taken up by Capetonians who enjoy its large.071 ‘The City Hall was host to a most momentous occasion in South African history. Other Art Deco sites in the city centre include the old provincial administration offices (cnr Wale & Victoria streets).1). Right next door is the old Post Office.za .’ ART DECO One of the finest and most obvious examples of the Art Deco building style in Cape Town is the Old Mutual building (cnr Darling & Parliament streets).cpo. key 31. but the Cape Town International Convention Centre (CTICC) has now finally made it almost obsolete. the Good Hope Centre (cnr Sir Lowry & Oswald Pirow) was once the foremost exhibition hall in Cape Town. Detail: Cape Philharmonic Orchestra on 021 410 9809 and www. The CTICC (Coen Steytler Avenue). starker building without the ornate elements of Mutual Heights. key 31. THE OLD AND THE NEW Designed by Italian Antonio Nervi and completed in 1977. but a fine example nonetheless. Below: The Blue Lodge at 206– 208 Long Street (front map.4). Above: The Cape Town City Hall (front map. which is a far simpler.org.
of which there are two outlets in the city – 101 St George’s Mall and 33 Heerengracht on the foreshore. but be prepared for a bit of heartburn afterwards. then a gatsby would be without doubt something like a limousine. less pummelling local fare. It consists of an enormous 70-cm French loaf and comes stuffed with any of a variety of things: polony. just that ‘it’s a Cape Town thing’. chips and chips. But Mariam’s is also outstanding for other. key 32. and even chips and steak. . slim limo. Its selection of salomies (roti filled with curried meat) and curries is fantastic. a gatsby is a thing you can eat. Yes.1). tomatoes and cheese all in one! It’s the food of the people and you’ll see construction workers and office workers alike queuing up for them at eateries all over town during their lunch breaks. And not just a sleek. Opposite: Sanaullah Usman displays one of Mariam’s Kitchen’s monstrous (and delicious) gatsbys (front map. key 32.2). chips and cheese. onions. So let’s take a good guess and say it’s called a gatsby because it’s a great (and a very big) thing. Four people can easily share a single gatsby. but an SUV-limo: large. Above: A delicious koeksister (sweet confectionary) from the Noon Gun Tea Room in the BoKaap (front map. robust and totally over the top.072 LOCAL FOOD DINE OUT KEY 32 Local food Even people who have been making gatsbys all their lives can’t quite say why it’s called a gatsby. double chips and cheese. fish and chips. communal meal. One of the best places in the city centre to buy a gatsby is Mariam’s Kitchen. which comes with a small onion salad – delicious when mixed with the meat. but not quite eat alone. Russian sausage. It’s supposed to be an economical. and lettuce. Try the chicken salomie. If a hotdog was a humble Toyota Corolla.
Rylands) is widely regarded to be the holy grail: the birthplace of the gatsby. Detail: Mariam’s Kitchen on 021 423 0772 and www. Two other authentic Cape Malay restaurants are Biesmiellah’s and the Noon Gun Tea Room in the Bo-Kaap (see key 16). Sunrise Chip ’n Ranch.za. grab samoosas. Sunrise Chip ’n Ranch on 021 689 3250. The Golden Dish (Gatesville Centre. There is a legendary stall which is set up on the sidewalk towards the top of Long Street on busy party nights which makes the hungry punters queue for delicious schwarmas and boerewors rolls. the bunny chow. .’ For a quick snack. but as street as street food gets. so things are spartan. You can’t sit down here (except for on the kerb) and you order through a hatch. These sell everything from boerewors (traditional sausage) rolls to falafels and hot dogs. they also sell that city’s pride and joy. potato wadas. Klipfontein Road. spring rolls or delicious daltjies (a deep-fried chilli-bite). The owners being from Durban. Lekker! The home of the gatsby is arguably out on the Cape flats. All Mariam’s food is strictly Halaal. There are gatsbys of every denomination. which is half a loaf of bread stuffed with curry of your choice. available from many cafés and small shops (see key 33).073 ‘A gatsby is a thing you can eat. which just boggles the mind. Besides fish and chips. At 94 Main Road in Mowbray is another takeaway institution. other Cape Town street food is scarce. but not quite eat alone. even a roti-gatsby.mariamskitchen.co. The Golden Dish on 021 633 7864. limited to a few scattered stalls which mostly operate during lunch hours on weekdays to serve the city centre’s workforce.
they might move on to the customer next to you. you’ll be handed a warm bundle. South Africans like their fish deep-fried and their chips salty and with a good splash of vinegar. A lunch hour spent here will tell you much more about Capetonians than a week spent tanning on Camps Bay beach ever will. Lusitania Fisheries (47a Waterkant Street) is a good place to start. you’ll have to head into the city centre to find some authentic places. Make sure that you know what you want by the time you get there. key 33). takeaway fish and chips is a Cape Town staple.074 FISH AND C HIPS THE BEST KEY 33 Best fish and chips Like the gatsby (key 32). . because if you um and aah for a moment too long. if not entirely unique. Head straight for the counter. you will not go hungry. you can’t go wrong with Texies. the place is packed. the Teixeiras. While you can buy fish and chips at the V&A Waterfront. The items you’ll find most commonly on menus will be variations in portions of hake. where there will already be a polite scrum. for less then R30. Generally. snoek or calamari and chips. As a side order you can ask for a pickled onion – if they don’t sell pickled onions then you know you’re not at a ‘real’ fish-and-chips joint. Before you know it. the outlets are now part of the cultural landscape in Cape Town. Despite being a franchise. Above: Another expertly assembled parcel of fish and chips leaves the assembly line at Lusitania Fisheries (front map. Try to visit the outlet at the Cape Town station. Built up by a Portuguese immigrant family. From around noon until 2 pm. where they have a couple of tables inside. neatly wrapped in white paper. The speed with which your parcel of fish and chips is assembled is amazing.
In 1989 an anti-apartheid protest held here was dispersed by police using a water gun. With its cobbled surface underfoot. it was once a place where vegetables were sold.S H O P F O R A F R I CA N A RT 075 Greenmarket Square Situated right in the heart of the city.com . You can generally bargain a little. the square is (almost) carless by day. The church. is the Central Methodist Church. farmers from the outlying farms and freed slaves brought in their produce. paintings of Table Mountain. African dresses. Sit down on one of the benches and try to imagine what it looked like 300 years ago. beadwork and soapstone carvings. that Cape Town’s estimated 35 000 slaves were finally emancipated. As its name indicates. Initially these came out of the Company Gardens – the main entrance of which was nearby. But it was also here. on 1 December 1834. like the ‘Eggy Man’ on the next pages (front map. KEY 34 Photos: Greenmarket Square is a jumbled swathe of colour in the city centre where you might meet someone truly interesting. Greenmarket Square is a place both heavy with history and joyfully adamant about a Pan African future. key 34).greenmarketsquare. The water was dyed purple so that the police could apprehend all the ‘purple’ people afterwards. but don’t expect to pick up anything dirt cheap. colourful artistic collages of townships. Later. T-shirts sporting Madiba (Nelson Mandela) or Guevarra on the front. so it is a pedestrian-friendly area. A darker side of its history is that it was a place where slaves were once sold. Detail: Greenmarket Square on www. wooden bowls. handbags made from discarded vinyl records. On sale will be leather bags. Besides the Old Town House (1755). another significant building which borders the square. the Old Town House and the whole of Greenmarket Square were all purple that day. Pay what you’re prepared to pay is a good motto to go by.
0076 KEY 34 Greenmarket Square Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
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It is a haven for vegetarians too. Besides the live marimba band. Every night at least two coaches are parked outside. Moroccan lamb pot roast and Mama’s malva pudding. mango chicken kebabs. kudu steak and Madagascar springbok in a green pepper sauce. with others following when it became obvious how big the demand was. Nyoni’s Kraal (98 Long Street) serves local Malay recipes like breyani and bobotie and features ‘pap-and-meat towers’ and Mopani worms on their African menu. with happy tourists munching inside. Nyoni’s Kraal on 021 422 0529. Tip: if it’s a warm night. it’s the food that keeps people coming back here. Addis in Cape on 021 424 5722. the food is the one thing that won’t disappoint. key 35). pre-book a table on the open balcony top floor for fine city views. Mama Africa on 021 426 1017. At the Africa Café you can enjoy Xhosa imifino patties (delicious spinach and mealiemeal patties). Booking is essential: The Africa Café on 021 422 0221. Whether you find the African-theme restaurants kitsch or the best thing ever. Addis in Cape (cnr Long and Church streets) specialises in Ethiopian food. . Try their biltong and feta salad. Above: Mama Africa on Long Street has a homely atmosphere (front map. You won’t miss the Africa Café (108 Shortmarket Street). and as the restaurant focuses on cuisine originating from just one country.078 AFRICAN RESTAUR ANTS DINE OUT KEY 35 African restaurants Mama Africa (178 Long Street) was the first African-theme restaurant to open in the city. Portia’s sticky chicken wings and Zanzibar bean stew. from the mystical décor (Coptic crosses) to the authentic way the food is presented. whose grooves spill out into vibrant Long Street on hot summer nights. Marco’s African Place on 021 423 5412. Marco’s African Place (15 Rose Lane) has live music on some nights and serves oxtail curry. the quality and attention to detail is superb. This is usually a quieter spot.
something few other sushi bars seem to have. Detail: Wakame on 021 433 2377. Possibly because of demand from foreign tourists or maybe because the city’s population is becoming more cosmopolitan.SUSHI DINE OUT 079 Sushi Not long ago. Kubo’s Little Japan on 082 855 0208. (V&A Waterfront) and Oishii Fusion Sushi Bar. It is an unassuming place. Willoughby & Co. De Waterkant Street). for it is indeed not your average sushi spot. Wakame also serves cocktails and offers a great view. who runs the kitchen himself when he is not in Japan. the décor varies from massive kimonos to print advertisements featuring Mr Minato (he is a legendary character actor in local advertisements). basement restaurant with a very relaxed atmosphere. Wakame in Mouille Point (cnr Beach Road & Surrey Place) is one of the most fashionable sushi joints. Kubo’s is open for lunch and offers discounts for female customers on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Minato on 021 423 4712. Those who know about Minato Japanese Sushi (4 Buiten Street) speak of it in hushed voices. Tank Restaurant & Sushi Bar on 021 419 0007. The design is clean – all cherry-wood counters and light streaming in from outside. there are now many sushi options from which to choose. Inside. with no visible shop front except a small sign. which is part of the Chef Pon’s Sawaddee Thai restaurant in Rheede Street. Other highly recommended places include Tank Restaurant & Sushi Bar (Cape Quarter. on 021 418 6116. KEY 36 Above: Oishii Fusion Sushi Bar (next to Chef Pon’s Sawaddee) makes some tasty Thai-fusion sushi as well as traditional style sushi (front map. Cape Town woke up to the culinary joy that is sushi. It’s a small. key 36). . Kubo’s Little Japan (48 Riebeeck Street) is one of the more authentic sushi places and also serves other Japanese food. Willoughby & Co. where he has another restaurant. Chef Pon’s Sawaddee on 021 422 1633.
This means that the sport is perfectly suited to the spectator who wants to catch a bit of sun. officially named Sahara Park Newlands. The format of the game varies. are undoubtedly the Twenty20 and the slightly longer one day matches.080 CRIC KET SPORT KEY 37 Cricket Cricket is largely a summer sport. Many of the vendors who walk around selling cold drinks. The provincial side of nearby Boland have their home at Paarl (key 70). maybe drink a cold draught beer and do some people watching. but domestic games happen almost weekly during the summer. where international matches are staged every now and then. a warm sweater for the evening and a pair of binoculars to get closer to the action.capecobras. boring stretches of play.co.com. The grounds are home to the Western Province cricket team. Twenty20 matches generally last little longer than four hours while ‘one day’ games can run for about nine hours – a good day at the office.za .wpcc. ice cream and biltong have been working cricket matches for many years and are great characters to engage in conversation.computicket. The most vibrant matches hosted at Newlands Cricket Ground. generally play a handful of games at Newlands during the season. which is just as well. Test matches can last up to five days. the Proteas. it’s not a sport that can be played in the rain. because unlike rugby or soccer. The national team. so you can even bring a thick book along for those long. key 37). Booking for big games is essential: Book tickets at www. The Cape Cobras at www. Above: The best games at Newlands stadium are day/ night affairs as the atmosphere suddenly seems extra charged once the stadium lights go on (back map.co. the Cape Cobras.za. Western Province Cricket Club on 021 657 2003 and at www. At Newlands stadium you can choose between comfortable plastic seats under cover or a very popular grass embankment section where it is still permissible to bring along your gas braai and make your own lunch or dinner. Take sunscreen.
Gateway to Newlands offer stadium tours on 021 686 2150 and www. get hold of the expat club. Cape Buccaneers at www. Detail: Buy tickets from www.computicket.com. KEY 38 Above: Schoolboy games such as this derby day match between Rondebosch and Bishops are very competitive affairs. a club championship between the top 14 teams from South Africa.com. Once that’s done. you must head to Newlands rugby stadium (back map. South Africa’s oldest provincial tournament. New Zealand and Australia – the Cape Town franchise team is officially known as the Vodacom Stormers. Western Province at www. have won the Rugby World Cup twice. What should you be shouting when the home team has the ball in hand? ‘Proooooooviiiince!’ of course.capebuccaneers.thestormers. While rugby is traditionally a winter sport in South Africa.newlandstours. in 1995 and in 2007. gets under way. meet for drinks too. South Africans’ obsession with rugby might be hard to understand. yes. but to see the provincial or national team play. They are based at Hamiltons Rugby Club in Sea Point. so be quick off the mark.com.R U G BY S P O RT 081 Rugby To visitors. the national and regional teams participate in matches throughout most of the year.co. the Vodacom Stormers at www.com. If you are in town for a while and want to join a club. But the fact remains that it is a near religion in many communities – Cape Town and most of the Western Cape fall within this category. Western Province (or simply ‘Province’ to its fans) has a proud history in this tournament. the Springboks.wprugby. key 38). the Currie Cup. play regular games. Newlands hosts approximately two international rugby tests per year and tickets always go very quickly. the Newlands Rugby Stadium. including touch rugby. where rugby has been played since 1890. go for jogs along the promenade and. All Province and Stormers games happen at the home of Cape Town rugby. The first major competition of the year is the Super 14.za . The national rugby team. Cape Buccaneers.
near the Salt River Circle) has risen to prominence in recent years as consumers have become more aware of the origin of foodstuffs.co. oysters. tofu. but you can buy fruit and vegetables. coffee. If you are staying in self-catering accommodation and on a modest budget. handpicked. cheeses. If you are in town for an extended period of time. why not pick your own strawberries? At Polkadraai Farm near Stellenbosch you can do just that from September to December. The vibe is laid-back – this is where you’ll see the hipsters from Long Street buy their weekly ration of biltong. key 39). neighbourgoodsmarket. sushi. The Ethical Co-op at 021 706 7734. Polkadraai Strawberry Farm on 021 881 3303. Look out for bigger chains such as Fruit & Veg City which offer the best prices. Participants vary. eco-friendly. register with the folk from the Ethical Co-op who offer a wide range of organic food at decent prices. The Neighbourgoods Market is open every Saturday morning. .082 FRESH FOOD MARKETS EAT HEALTH Y KEY 39 Fresh food and fruits The Neighbourgoods Market at the Old Biscuit Mill in Salt River (Albert Road. flowers. They make deliveries to your house on Wednesdays or you can pick up your order at one of the many points across the peninsula. Everything sold here is organic. At Klondyke Cherry Farm near Ceres you can pick cherries in November and December. beer. Above: The Neighbourgoods Market (back map. Detail: Neighbourgoods Market on 021 448 1438 and www. caught this very morning and so forth – food that will make you feel good both in the head and in the stomach. the nearest supermarket should suffice for all your fruit and vegetable needs. Klondyke Cherry Farm on 023 312 1521. chocolates. honey. For something unusual.za. woodfired breads. wines. pesto. clothing and even holistic pet food.
’ . chilli sauce. golf clubs. sandpaper. which is most active on a Sunday. books. KEY 40 Above and next pages: The Milnerton second-hand goods market (back map. but not as interesting as Milnerton. art. vases. but the persistent snooper will discover a meticulously curated world of knickknacks at the Milnerton market. ‘. The market is set up on an otherwise barren piece of land sandwiched between Table Bay and the busy Marine Drive (the R27) in Paarden Island every Saturday and Sunday. With industrial warehouses across the road and a railway on the other side blocking your view of the sea. headphones. ceramic dogs and ducks and cats. headphones. hunting knives. sewing machines.. lamps. skipping ropes. Eric Lustbader novels. dolls. bird boxes. sandpaper. It’s usually on the first two Saturdays of the month and you can find it at the corner of Campground and Sandown roads in Rondebosch. it’s not the prettiest location. chilli sauce. old coins. funeral flowers.. vetkoek and mince. angle grinders. cookie tins. fresh samoosas. TV remotes. vases. and fishing rods.S H O P A N D S N O O P A LT E R NAT I V E M A R K E TS 083 Alternative markets Cape Town has nothing on the labyrinthine food and general goods markets of the East.. a pickaxe. but an hour or two spent here might just result in you finding that very specific door-handle you’ve always needed. HulaHoops. office chairs. The Kirstenbosch craft market happens at the Stone Cottages across the road from the Botanical Gardens on the last Sunday of every month except in July and August.. What else can you find here? Take your pick: CDs. hunting knives. key 40). office chairs. Give the Rondebosch craft market a turn for homemade gifts and great pancakes. fresh samoosas. ceramic dogs and ducks and cats. Other markets include Greenmarket Square (key 34) and the Muizenberg/Sunrise beach market in the parking lot at Sunrise Circle. golf clubs. old coins .
0084 KEY 40 Alternative Markets Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
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Pieter Hugo and Zanele Muholi. Look out for work by Lien Botha. iArt (71 Loop Street) and the Association for Visual Arts. Roger Ballen and Dale Yudelman.artthrob. Karlien de Villiers. these publications are a good representation of the real deal if you don’t have the money to purchase an artwork. Woodstock. focused exhibitions.ava.za. Whetstone and Frankley on www. Erdmann on www. such as Avant Car Guard.co. but the smaller galleries really have the scope to expose new talent.za. com. com.iart. Whetstone & Frankley (87a Station Road) hosts small.bell-roberts. where emerging design talent is on show.com. co. Curious.co. Bell-Roberts on www.erdmanncontemporary. Focus Contemporary on www. AVA on www. besides its main exhibition space. Erdmann Contemporary and the Photographers Gallery ZA are housed at the same address (63 Shortmarket Street). curiouswhetstoneandfrankley. key 41). They’re at 208 Albert Road. .co. The Bell-Roberts gallery (176 Sir Lowry Road) has. They also publish art books and magazines such as Art South Africa.michaelstevenson. a section called CUBE. Other galleries in the city centre include Focus Contemporary (cnr Loop and Hans Strijdom streets).focuscontemporary. Nearby in Observatory.086 AR T GALLERIES CULTURE KEY 41 Art galleries Contemporary South African and African art is alive and well in Cape Town’s select galleries.za. ITCH and Snapped.za.com. www.co.za is a very good general resource. Above: ‘what if the world’ gallery (back map. iArt on www. Michael Stevenson on www. The ‘what if the world’ gallery has made a name for itself as a gallery which gives exposure to the best young artists.whatiftheworld. In the city centre. or AVA (35 Church Street). Detail: ‘what if the world’ on www. Curious. The South African National Gallery (key 18) serves as a collective artistic vault that curates the progression of local art. The Michael Stevenson (160 Sir Lowry Road) gallery is especially strong on photography and represents renowned names such as Guy Tillim. Peter Eastman and Julia Rose Clark. David Goldblatt.
This is usually put on during January and February. Throughout the year. KEY 42 Above: The Intimate Theatre (front map.T H E AT R E E N T E RTA I N M E N T 087 Theatre The biggest theatre complex in the city is Artscape. Detail: Artscape on 021 410 9800 and www.za. the theatre stages a variety of productions including ballet. Baxter Theatre on 021 685 7880 and www. which still bring their pupils here to watch the annual Shakespeare play.co. Below: Artscape (front map.artscape. jazz and opera. 37 Orange Street). children’s theatre.maynardville. Maynardville on www. Rondebosch) is part of the University of Cape Town (UCT) and has three venues to cater for everything from big stage shows to more intimate productions.co. The Vodacom Funny Festival is hosted here during June and July. situated on the foreshore (DF Malan Street). Maynardville became a popular theatre venue. Excellent independent or student theatre gets exposure at UCT’s Little and Intimate Theatres (Michaelis Art School complex. It opened in 1971 as the Nico Malan Theatre. The Baxter Theatre (Main Road. opened with a production of The Taming of the Shrew. especially among schools. comedy. The dream project of two renowned actresses of the time. but became Artscape in 2001. the wonderful open-air theatre in Wynberg (cnr Wolfe & Piers streets). key 42. Besides top-quality local productions. Intimate Theatre on 021 480 7105.baxter. . a 540-seat auditorium and a small venue for 140 people.za and 011 340 8000).za. while Kalk Bay Theatre is so special we devote a whole page to it elsewhere (key 99).1). key 42. In 1956. computicket. the Baxter often brings select international performing artists and shows to Cape Town too.co.co. Maynardville.2). Most theatre and other city entertainment can be booked via Computicket (www.za. It consists of an Opera House that seats almost 1 200 people.
If it gets too sweaty inside. hip ’n ready. The Assembly (61 Harrington Street) is a relatively new venue with good facilities and an efficient online booking system. key 43. Taxi Violence. Fokofpolisiekar (or one of their spin-off bands aKING and Van Coke Kartel). and grungy. the crowd that assembles for midnight wisdoms on the balcony outside is as entertaining as the band onstage.2). Opposite: Mabu Vinyl is the best place to pick up local music (front map.1). depending on what you’re looking for and how far you’re prepared to drive. Try see bluesman Dave Ferguson or Babu. whose pulsating rhythms are driven by Kesivan Naidoo. Once you’ve made it safely up the narrow staircase at the Waiting Room (173 Long Street). On Mondays. one of the best drummers you’ll ever come across. Zula often has comedy on Monday nights. themed parties on the other nights. hip hop revolutionary. It hosts live bands on Mondays and Tuesdays. Check out bands like unit. acoustic sessions on Tuesdays and then a variety of indie rock.088 LOCAL MUSIC ENTERTAINMENT KEY 43 Local music Cape Town has a thriving band scene with gigs happening almost throughout the week. It’s the perfect place to have a meal. generally a dead night out in Cape Town. Below: Waddy Jones. Look out for gigs by Bed on Bricks. Fridays or Saturdays. a drink and watch a band. The Shy Guevaras and Them Tornadoes. The Zula Sound Bar (196 Long Street) is somewhere between homely. . The Rudimentals. Mercury Live (43 De Villiers Street) is the best place for rock music. hip hop and hard rock Above: Them Tornadoes rock out at Mercury Live (front map. the Mercury Lounge (downstairs from Live) hosts lively student parties during term time. and good. key 43. with big gigs usually scheduled for Wednesdays. you’ll discover a tiny but happening little venue. Sweat X and The Real Estate Agents.r.
A good place to enjoy a wide range of Cape Town acts is at Rocking the Daisies.com. Up the Creek.co. Good Morning. The Levi’s Vintage Sundays sessions. Die Boer and Durbanville Kunskafee frequently hosts live bands. Rocking the Daisies on www. Up the Creek on www.mercuryl. They’ll also be able to tell you when and where the next good gig is going down. are free and an excellent way to round off the weekend. with a dam full of geese to the side. about an hour’s drive from Cape Town. It’s a really good place to shop for South African music as the owner and assistants are very knowledgeable. . usually early in February.za. on a wine farm. hosted by the Green Dolphin (key 9). Durbanville Kunskafee on 021 979 3131.za. Another festival. co.co. The latter two acts don’t exist anymore.upthecreek. Mabu Vinyl on 021 423 7635. Zula Sound Bar on www.’ on other nights. but if you’re lucky you’ll track down some of their albums at Mabu Vinyl (2 Rheede Street). especially Afrikaans artists. just a 20 minute drive from the city. Weekends often belong to DJs and other creators of the party. Built on solid green credentials. rockingthedaisies.za Classic Cape Town albums: Dark Days Exit by Felix Laband (electronica). an annual music festival held near Darling. Out in Durbanville. Try to catch a night with the Fong Kong Bantu Sound System featuring the likes of Real Rozanno and Dubmasta China. Lugsteuring by Fokofpolisiekar (rock). Detail: Mercury Live lineup on www.co.zulabar. South Africa by maxnormal. Any party featuring hip hop DJ Ready D will be legendary – he has been one of the top DJs in the world for years now and was instrumental in the early days of hip hop in South Africa through his work with Prophets of da City and Brasse Vannie Kaap. Nomvula by Freshlyground (pop). The Assembly on www.089 ‘Any party featuring hip hop DJ Ready D will be legendary.za. the festival organisers ensure that the beautiful environment is treated with respect during the weekend-long festival. tv (hip hop). Die Boer on 021 979 1911.theassembly. Caught in the Loop by Goldfish (dance). which usually happens late in September. takes place near Swellendam.
Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden was established in 1913. free guided walks set off from the information centre at the main gate at 10 am Monday through to Saturday. Once a year. The first part of the garden to be developed by the early director of Kirstenbosch. Photos: Local group Goldfish entertains the masses (above) during a summer concert in Kirstenbosch (back map. If you want to learn more about the garden from an expert. usually in March.090 KIRSTENBOSC H BOTANICAL G ARDEN KEY 44 Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden Previously a rundown farm with rampant pigs snacking on acorns. The hedge consists of a type of indigenous almond. 36 hectares stand cultivated. Kirstenbosch holds a Garden Fair where you get the chance to purchase some of their excess plants at very good prices. was the Dell. in which he planted rare. key 44). The Cape is famous for its fynbos (literally ‘fine bush’). however. Today. which contributes the greatest number of species to the incredibly rich Cape floral kingdom. . For example. The early Khoi inhabitants of the area. The strelitzia (opposite page) and protea (below) are some of the many spectacular flowers to be seen. The Peninsula Garden contains over 2 500 plant species. It gradually grew as new gardens were planted and more species introduced. fed by natural springs. figured out that they’re perfectly fine to eat as long as you roast them first. and Van Riebeeck’s Hedge which was planted in 1660 to demarcate the then limits of the fledgling colony. mostly fynbos. Prof. Harold Pearson. built in 1810 by the deputy Colonial Secretary of the same name. is already extinct in the wild). Encephalartos woodii. Table Mountain alone has more plant species than the whole of the United Kingdom. The main feature here is Colonel Bird’s bath. slow-growing cycads (a caged cycad in this area. the seeds of which are poisonous to eat as they contain cyanide.
when senior citizens get in free. During summer (December to March). massive outdoor concerts. as traffic backs up and the best vantage spots are taken early. In the Tea Room you can order your food as a takeaway and enjoy it in the garden as picnic fodder. and garlic-and-olive focaccia. Stick to the paths and don’t touch or remove any plant or animal.org. Norwegian smoked salmon. Kirstenbosch Tea Room on 021 797 4883. We are afraid that means you can’t climb the trees. You might find yourself sitting behind a clump of proteas without getting to see the band. so you might want to book on those days to ensure a table at one of the restaurants. You don’t need to be mad about plants to enjoy Kirstenbosch. Tips: Always walk in a group when on smaller back paths. and an escape from the city – a perfect place to have a picnic or relax with a book for a few hours. Silvertree Restaurant and Fynbos Deli. There’s also a Biennale (art with plants) and regular talks and eco-art workshops for kids during holidays.091 ‘Table Mountain alone has more plant species than the whole of the UK. Look out for Jannie ‘Hanepoot’ van Tonder and his Biggish Band. A word of warning: come hours early. Detail: Information on 021 799 8783 and www. but also on Tuesdays. are held on the lawns. is a bit fancier and the picnic hampers offered include root vegetable crisps. It offers great walking. The winter concert series take place in the Silvertree Restaurant and features a jazz and singer-songwriter lineup. The garden is busiest on weekends and public holidays. Silvertree Restaurant and Fynbos Deli on 021 762 9585. .sanbi.’ It’s the perfect opportunity to ask that burning ‘What’s this one called?’ question. and Robin Auld. featuring popular local acts such as Freshlyground and Goldfish. The other facility. peace and quiet.
although the best idea is to park near the southern end of the beach where there is an information centre. Above: Table Mountain’s iconic ‘postcard view’ photo can be taken from Blouberg Beach (back map.092 BLOUBERG BEACH WALK KEY 45 Blouberg beach walk Few things are as refreshing for body. there will be other people around. It is comparable to the Sea Point Promenade (key 5) with senior citizens taking a leisurely stroll and runners sweating it out on the pavement. Detail: Good places to eat at on the strip include Café Blouberg (20 Stadler Road). you need a beach that goes on and on and on. Blouberg is such a beach. because you are far enough from the mountain and at just the right angle for Devil’s Peak. in which case it might be better to enjoy the view from the shelter of your car. The Blouberg (Blue Moutain) itself. and off to the right. Most postcard images of Table Mountain are taken from here. You can park anywhere along Otto du Plessis Drive once you get to Blouberg. key 45). the ice-cream van might be out and kite-surfers busy setting up for the day. Although. The Table also looks as flat as can be. Primi Blue (14 Beach Boulevard) and Doodles Bar & Restaurant (110 Beach Boulevard). . which gives the beach and suburb its name. the Table and Lion’s Head to stand out very clearly from one another. when the kitesurfers are out. because they are generally out when the wind blows. is just inland behind you and was the site of a battle which eventually lead to the Cape being passed – for a second and final time – from Dutch to English control in 1806. Whether it is morning or late afternoon. you will see Robben Island. mind and soul as a long stroll on the beach. Situated across Table Bay. midweek or weekend. Closer to you. it could be bad news. While the beaches close to the city centre – Camps Bay and Clifton – usually get all the attention thanks to their scenic settings. they’re not the biggest of the Cape beaches. And for a good beach walk.
‘Just stay for the sunset. Be sure not to block a driveway. The water is cold. angling tighter and tighter towards the beach. Beyond them lies Sandy Bay. Next pages: Llandudno beach looking inland towards the back of the Twelve Apostles. The road drops down steeply. just about the only ‘shop’ in Llandudno. round and graceful in shape. framed by enormous granite boulders. key 46). The turn off to Llandudno appears on your right just as the road starts climbing towards the crest of Suikerbossie. The granite boulders which form the border of the beach on the south side are called Sunset Rocks. a stunning stretch of white a few hundred metres long. so swimming isn’t big.llandudno. To the right is Little Lion’s Head and the big mountain on the far right is Karbonkelberg (‘carbuncle mountain’). But just stay for the sunset. Cape Town’s famous nudist beach. Walk all the way to the ocean. The promontory on your far left is Logie Rock and chances are that there will be a knot of young people congregated at the Surf & Lifesaving Clubhouse. that’s what Llandudno is for.’ Detail: www. Surfing is. but coarse to the touch. so you might have to park in one of the residential streets. and then turn around to face the mountain. Take the short path past the public bathrooms and you’re on the beach. KEY 46 Above: Llandudno beach looking towards Little Lion’s Head (back map. is the back end of the Twelve Apostles. Straight ahead. when the waves are good. Llandudno was given its name after a visitor realised it looked just like a town in Wales of the same name.L L A N D U D N O S E A S I D E TOW N 093 Llandudno The tiny and exclusive suburb of Llandudno is the custodian of one of the peninsula’s most beautiful beaches. after which you will descend towards Hout Bay. where there is very little parking. that’s what Llandudno is for. above the town. though. To get there.co. take Victoria Road past Camps Bay towards Hout Bay. .za for accommodation options.
0094 KEY 46 Blouberg beach walk Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
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. The ins and outs of township life will be explained. Since foreign tourists started flocking here in great numbers after 1994. from the safety of your air-conditioned coach. Opposite: Vicky Ntozini walks with a guest near her B & B in Khayelitsha (back map. from how to buy beer in an informal shebeen (bar) to how to behave around a sangoma Above: The party livens up in a shebeen in Imizamo Yethu (back map. many have wanted to experience life outside of the glamorous bubble of beaches and cocktails.096 TOWNSHIP TOURISM EXPERIEN CE KEY 47 Township tour Most of this book concentrates on a small part of Cape Town. This is where township tourism comes in. Guguletu and Langa. Andulela Experience tours are always lead by a guide who has lived in one of the communities you will visit. key 47. the neighbourhoods of the Cape Flats such as Athlone and Mitchells Plain. key 47. Below: Sampling the local brew in Langa (back map. But the city centre is staffed by people who live all over the greater metropole – northern suburbs like Durbanville and Bellville.1). it can still feel like you’re gawking at the poor. key 47. The problem is that many of these tours can be uncomfortably voyeuristic. Several township tour operators offer fully integrated approaches and specially designed trips to overcome these problems. or the benefits the influx of foreign tourists might bring to a part of the community you visit. trapped by their circumstances. No matter how good the intentions of the operators are. It provides a safe way to explore some of Cape Town’s poorest neighbourhoods in order to experience a way of life you’d never have imagined from behind the comfort of your hotel cup of filter coffee. southern suburbs such as Plumstead.3).2). the townships of Khayelitsha.
Madosini.tourcapers. as is a visit to Golden Flowers’ workshop. meet some locals and walk around to see the disparity that exists. In Khayelitsha (South Africa’s second largest township after Soweto). Madosini (Manquina) is one of Nelson Mandela’s favourite musicians. Half-day township tours can often be done in conjunction with another relevant activity.andulela. . A tour lead by Cape Capers tours starts off in Langa. which is generally one of the more relaxed ways to engage with people from across the cultural chasm. is also a very popular destination. Langa is home to one of South Africa’s greatest living folk singers.com Facts: Street names in Guguletu all start with the abbreviation NY. It is named after the respected chief Langalibalele. an African cooking tour and one investigating the roots of Cape Town’s rich jazz heritage. Hout Bay’s township. which takes you right into the living room of local legends like Mac McKenzie. who was confined to a farm here after being released from imprisonment on Robben Island. you might think that a township simply consists of shacks. Vicky’s B & B is on many tours’ itinerary. Take a night-time shebeen tour. Detail: Cape Capers on 021 448 3117 and www. Their speciality tours cater to tourists with specific interests – they have a gospel tour. This tour takes people to visit the cultural centre.za.097 ‘The ins and outs of township life will be explained. where discarded cold drink tins are put to good use by turning them into tin flowers.’ (traditional doctor).co. Imizamo Yethu. the oldest township in Cape Town. Andulela Experience on 021 790 2592 and www. It stands for Native Yard. But houses built in a township can vary from government housing to big. privately built homes bordered by lean-to shacks made of corrugated metal sheets. such as a visit to Robben Island. If you were merely to drive past the townships from the airport to your hotel.
co. and you are really spoilt for choice. a cable-car trip up Table Mountain and a hike across the top and down into Kirstenbosch gardens. This route gets steep. Visit www. the big cleft you can see in the mountain to the left of the cable car station. There is a fully catered and portered three-day hike package during which you experience city history. These Hoerikwaggo Trails vary in length and level of luxury. Below: Cecelia Forest (back map. . Essential extra reading is Mike Lundy’s regularly updated Best Walks in the Cape Peninsula. Capetonians are privileged.co. Above: Table Mountain has many trails of varying difficulty (front map. If you want more than just a quick day-hike.climbing. a visit to Robben Island. If you have never climbed Table Mountain and you have limited time. but the well laid-out path will ensure that you don’t get lost.hikecapetown. the Table Mountain National Park now offers multiple-day hikes. key 48. is the best option.098 TABLE MOUNTAIN HIKIN G KEY 48 Hiking Table Mountain There cannot be many other cities in the world with such a giant hiking paradise situated right in their backyard. and the Cederberg near Clanwilliam. They are not only painstakingly accurate.1). then the main route up Platteklip Gorge. key 48. Slingsby’s Table Mountain Map is available at book shops and Cape Union Mart outlets. but also loaded with extra information which will bring the landmarks around you to life. Detail: www. A good idea is to walk up via Platteklip Gorge.2). with Table Mountain and the rest of the peninsula’s mountain ranges providing hiking just about everywhere. enjoy the sunset from the mountaintop and then take the cable car back down.za.za for more climbing options. Hoerikwaggo Trails on 021 465 8515. There are also no Western Cape maps better than those of Peter Slingsby. Add to that the proximity of the various Cape fold mountains beyond Paarl and Franschhoek.
This sounds hazardous. If the weather changes for the worse. Head around the northern slope of the mountain and the suburbs of Clifton. but anyone of reasonable fitness can do it.L I O N ’ S H E A D E A SY WA L K 099 Walk up Lion’s Head If you only have time for one hike. From the top. but there are still plenty of large rocks to rest on. nestled along the sparkling blue coastline. the view is spectacular in every direction – it’s actually a better viewing point than Table Mountain itself. Tips: Never walk alone and always tell someone else where you’re heading. KEY 49 Above: Walking even just part of the trail up Lion’s Head will make you feel a whole lot better about life (front map. be sure to pack a warm top and a torch for the trip down. The short cut goes up the cliff face with the aid of metal rungs and ladders. the road splits in two. this is a hike with benches along the way! Drive or take a taxi up to the Lion’s Head parking lot. Hundreds of people climb Lion’s Head every month to see the full moon rising. The benches run out soon after this. which is on Signal Hill Road. while Table Mountain restricts you to two sides at best. As you reach the bottom of the cliff. Camps Bay will be below you. turn back immediately. a tree unique to the peninsula mountains. it’s the Table Mountain National Park’s emergency number. There is very little climbing involved and if you don’t want to scramble over a single rock. key 49). It might seem intimidating from where you’re standing now. Yes. Never head out when it is misty. at a very gentle angle. Save 0861 106 417 in your mobile phone. then you must hike up Lion’s Head. The silver-leafed trees on the slope are indeed Silver Trees. Bantry Bay and Sea Point come into view. because here you can look down all sides of the mountain. The path sets out here. It’s one of the best communal nature experiences you can have in the Cape. but it is not very high and is easy and safe to use. The longer route is easier and runs up an easy to navigate ridge. If you’re doing the full moon hike. as the road turns back towards the city bowl side of the mountain. . As you round the first bend. you can always turn around and relax on a nearby bench.
Observatory and Athlone. . just above the University of Cape Town in amongst a clump of large pine trees on the back slopes of Devil’s Peak. You’ll see the N2 highway making its way past the two disused cooling towers towards the airport and beyond. You can see it from the suburbs of Mowbray. or smooch one’s lover – many UCT students hang out here – the real attraction is the Rhodes Memorial Restaurant. Bookings: 021 689 9151. key 50). The over-the-top memorial (just a few too many bronze lions. is a pleasant enough place to sit and read a book. It is just far enough out of the city bowl to offer a refreshingly different vista.100 RHODES MEMORIAL BREAKFAST WI T H A V I E W KEY 50 Breakfast at Rhodes Memorial Few locals will know where the Cape Town farm of Welgelegen is. Today it is part of Table Mountain National Park. Rondebosch. Pinelands. book a table inside so you can be cosy near the fireplace. one feels) was built in 1912 after a design by Sirs Herbert Baker and Francis Macey. Here. If you’re there midmorning. but down onto the suburbs of Cape Town. The restaurant has excellent food and is very popular over weekends. but ask where Rhodes Memorial (or just Rhodes Mem) is and most will be able to point it out. have scones and tea and let the kids explore the memorial and surrounding parklands. one for each year of Rhodes’s life. you don’t look at Table Mountain. In the distance are the Stellenbosch and Hottentots Holland Mountains. While the 49 memorial steps. In summer. sit outside. Rosebank. Above: The view over Cape Town from the top of Rhodes Memorial (back map. Cecil John Rhodes bought the farm of Welgelegen in 1891 and left it to the citizens of South Africa when he died just over a decade later. and in winter.
Once better safety measures had been installed. Sunsets from Signal Hill are special occasions. This way. Signal Hill is one of the most popular places from which to view the city – it is estimated to have 1. so it’s often full and you might have to head back down the road to find a place to pull over. toilets and security (front map. ‘It’s one of the places Cape Town locals are fiercely proud of – everyone feels as if they own a part of it. Many people come here to picnic because it is so accessible. From the city bowl it’s a five minute drive by car to reach the parking lot. there was pressure to open it again.’ . picnic tables. In the past. Today. another on top of Lion’s Head and another on Signal Hill itself. farmers could be alerted when there was a new ship in the harbour – the flags would even tell them which nationality it was – and they would pack their wagons with produce to sell to the crews.S I G NA L H I L L V I E W P O I N T 101 Signal Hill The Dutch had three lookout posts in the 17th and 18th centuries: one at the top of Kloof Nek. You can now access the site until 1 am and there is 24-hour security. key 51). and for a while the access path was closed at 9 pm. KEY 51 Above and next pages: Signal Hill has a small parking lot. From there they were passed on in similar fashion via Tygerberg all the way to the farms out at Paarl. It’s one of the places Cape Town locals are fiercely proud of – everyone feels as if they own a part of it. It’s not a very big parking lot. From Signal Hill. Signall Hill was re-opened for late-night drives. But because the view is also beautiful at night. using gunshots and flags. there have been safety issues at Signal Hill. they sent out messages that could be seen or heard at Salt River.5 million visitors every year. when Cape Town’s lights create a spectacle.
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but it sure has enough of a view. key 52) is part of the establishment. Bloubergstrand. Detail: The Blue Peter Hotel is in Popham Street. A bench next to Camps Bay Drive is perfect. From here. we’ve seen it … Above: The lawn outside the Blue Peter (back map. Children roll around on the soft grass. During the right atmospheric and weather conditions – you need clean air. hundreds of people converge on this patch of lawn to enjoy the sunset with a drink in hand and something to munch on. and easy to get to. . clear all the way to the horizon – you might be lucky enough to witness the fabled green flash. The bistro and bar area is on the lower deck. but it will be quieter. The Blue Peter is a hotel. During peak holiday times. Does it really exist? Yes. the Leopard Room Bar’s balcony at the Twelve Apostles Hotel is the place you want to be. A simple stroll along the Sea Point Promenade might lack elevation. Chances are you’ll discover a few of your own favourite sundowner spots while you’re here. You just need somewhere with a fine view out west – maybe your hotel balcony. Keep an eye on the sun as it sinks. views of Table Mountain are picture-perfect and even Robben Island seems close to shore on a clear day. spilling out onto a large grass embankment. so you run no risk of being arrested for drinking in public. but you can’t really go wrong with the Blue Peter at Blouberg. groups of friends laugh and chat and the whole atmosphere builds up to a festive crescendo as the sun makes its leisurely way to the horizon. but you can enjoy its location without having to spend the night. If you’d like to sit with a cocktail in hand. 021 554 1956.104 SUNSET THE BEST PL ACES KEY 52 Sundowners at the Blue Peter There are many fine places to have a sundowner around the peninsula. Noordhoek Beach between Noordhoek and Kommetjie is far to drive for a sunset.
carved out of the side of the mountain in the softer shale between the granite below and the sandstone higher up. With the cliff rising up on the one side.za to see if the drive is open. of which there are several.chapmanspeakdrive.co. . KEY 53 Above: Chapman’s Peak Drive (back map. De Waal Drive. There are 114 curves along its nine-kilometre length and several viewpoints and places to picnic. It is best to drive it from south to north as you will then be driving on the side closest to the ocean. but after a rock fall in 1999 killed a motorist. Chapman’s Peak is always at risk of rock falls. too – it was constructed between 1915 and 1922. There had been fatal accidents before. key 53) is carved into the rock-face. The man behind it. With the road faced with permanent closure.CHAPMAN’S PEAK SCENIC DRIVE 105 Chapman’s Peak Chapman’s Peak Drive is without doubt the most famous of the peninsula’s scenic drives. which cuts across the lower slopes of Devil’s Peak between the city bowl and Mowbray. In peak season. the first administrator of the Cape Province named Frederick de Waal. It’s an amazing feat of road engineering. Detail: Chapman’s Peak is closed during heavy rainfall. has his name honoured in another great road. It’s getting on in years. Dial 021 791 8222 or visit www. The road was reopened in December 2003 and became a toll road (although cyclists don’t have to cough up) to help pay for the reconstruction. more than 5 000 vehicles travel along this stretch of road per day. including ‘roofs’ over parts of the road and extensive rock traps and stabilisation set up to avoid any future mishaps. concerned residents and tourism stakeholders rallied to find funding and massive reconstruction followed. the road was closed in January 2000. The few places at which you can stop are also on the sea’s side and too dangerous to access if you’re coming from the other direction.
He was then transferred to the notorious Pollsmoor Prison near Constantia. and later more famously the apartheid government. he left the island prison in 1982 (around this time most of the political prisoners were moved off the island. then a journey to Robben Island is compulsory. The most famous of its past prisoners is Nelson Mandela. He was incarcarated in 1658 and over the following centuries others would follow. One of the earliest people imprisoned here for political reasons was Autshumao. this UNESCO World Heritage Site occupies a special place in the minds of South Africans. key 54). leaving only ordinary prisoners behind). however. Between 1961 and 1991. also known as Harry. leader of a group of Khoi who lived next to the sea when Jan van Riebeeck first settled at the Cape. it was not. Photos: The interior of Nelson Mandela’s cell (above). the entrance to the prison (inset below) and a stark inner court of the prison on Robben Island (back map. It is both symbolic of the resolve of those who fought against apartheid and of the spirit of forgiveness which characterised the early years of the fledgling South African democracy. When Mandela was finally released from prison in 1990. Walter Sisulu and Jacob Zuma.106 ROBBEN ISL AND HERITAGE KEY 54 Robben Island If you are a curious traveller who wants to learn more about the people of the country you’re visiting. more than 3 000 male prisoners passed through its gates (there were never any women held here). but other prominent figures include Govan Mbeki. when it was a high security prison. After 18 years. . people considered threats to the Dutch and English colonial occupiers. The last prisoners left the island in 1996 and it became a museum the following year. Today. from Robben Island.
robben-island. especially during peak season. Trips to the island depart by modern ferry from near the Clock Tower at the V&A Waterfront and last about three and a half hours. the Prince of Madura. from where he walked free in 1990. You will visit the high-security prison where Mandela and other struggle heroes were locked up. on the eastern side of the island. you cannot get out at any point on the circular bus-drive. the limestone quarry where they worked and then you will explore the rest of the island on a 45-minute bus drive. Once you have arrived at the small harbour at Murray’s Bay. Pack a warm item of windproof clothing for the ferry ride across the bay and. It suffers under enough feet as it is: there are penguins. He died here in exile in 1754. you will be escorted by a local guide. 11 am. You are advised to book in advance. Unfortunately. The kramat is a holy site for the Muslims and it commemorates Sayed Adurohman Moturu. inclusive of travel time and time spent on the island. the fortifications built on the island during World War II and the Moturu Kramat.org. and 3 pm.107 ‘The most famous of its past prisoners is Nelson Mandela. Other places of interest include the lighthouse constructed in 1863. take preventative tablets. Bookings on 021 413 4200 and more info on www. Detail: Ferries (inset below) depart at 9 am.’ Eventually he was moved to Victor Verster Prison (Paarl). This is to minimise the impact on the delicate environment. as enormous numbers of people visit the island. All the guides are ex-prisoners and thus have an intimate knowledge of the prison and surrounds. 1 pm. if you get seasick. rabbits and buck all over the island. otherwise the whole trip might be spoiled.za .
From this viewpoint. A couple of boats run trips out of the harbour to Duiker Island. Princess will take you straight to the harbour. Mariner’s Wharf. If you are coming from the Camps Bay side. when the local Round Table decided to auction off ‘cabinet’ positions as a fundraiser. Besides the World of Birds (key 61). which lies just behind the Sentinel as seen from the Leopard. a bronze statue given to the town by its sculptor. If you follow Main Road all the way through town towards the south. Duiker Island is home to 5 000 Cape fur seals and the trip is a popular weekend activity – though boats do run throughout the week. simply drive straight through the main business area via Victoria Avenue and then turn right when the road meets the sea. top-notch sit down restaurants as well as quality fish and chips take-aways (such as Fish on the Rocks. Hout Bay has always done its own thing. the bay lies in front of you with the Sentinel rising up behind the harbour. The Leopard is between the road and the sea at the first bend near Chapman’s Peak Hotel. above right) and family outings like a a boat trip to Seal Island (inset. aka Seal Island. Coming from Constantia Nek. the focal point of the town is the harbour complex. The postcard image of Hout Bay is often taken from the Leopard. Today. The whole concept proved to be a marketing gimmick that worked its magic via bumper stickers and even a fake ‘passport’. key 55) offer rustic seaside scenes (above). it soon becomes Chapman’s Peak Drive. . follow Main Road until you see Princess Street on your right. Photos: Hout Bay (back map.108 HOUT BAY SEASIDE TOWN KEY 55 Hout Bay Although part of the Cape Peninsula. Ivan Mitford-Barberton. opposite page). The idea of proclaiming the area as the Republic of Hout Bay came about in 1987. the self-appointed Consulate-General is André Jacobs (seen holding a ‘passport’ at inset left).
now lovingly restored. you’ll reach Fish on the Rocks. everything is done on the farm. From picking the grapes to making and bottling the wine. Not quite in the mood for fish and chips? The old Kronendal house. but the part in the back is from a century earlier. Ambeloui Wine Cellar on 082 441 6039. is home to a Thai restaurant. following Harbour Road to its very end. Snoekies. Kitima (140 Main Road). If you are a fan of sparkling wine. If you continue past the entrance to Mariner’s Wharf. find the small Ambeloui Wine Cellar (4075 Valley Road) which makes Cap Classique sparkling wine and nothing else. This is quite a landmark on the fish-and-chips scene (also see key 33) and is a good excuse for many Capetonians to visit Hout Bay. This means that the fish in the restaurants at Mariner’s Wharf is as fresh as it gets or you can buy straight off the boat and cook the fish at home. Kitima on 021 790 8004.’ Hout Bay is a fishing town and most of the peninsula’s crayfishing fleet is based here.109 ‘Most of the peninsula’s crayfishing fleet is based here. Detail: Hout Bay Museum on 021 790 3270. where a few old cannons lie. Try the Seafood Bistro or the Wharfside Grill. Kronendal is one of the Cape’s architectural treasures. Chapman’s Peak Hotel on 021 790 1036. Another nearby joint. is as renowned. being the only H-plan layout house of its period left. You can sit and eat at their wooden tables outside or carry your little parcel of salty delight over to the rocks. The final product is highly sought after as the quantities are always limited. The Hout Bay Seafood Festival & Snoek Derby is one of the town’s big calendar events. . The front façade dates from 1800. A highlight of this event (in August) is the derby during which fishermen set out into the bay to see who can catch the biggest snoek on the day.
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and the whole family can try out their Dirty Harry credentials with harmless paint-gun target shooting. you will not be at ‘the frontiers of oblivion’. Be sure to tie your laces properly. roughly. this theme park has rides ranging from family-oriented to adrenaline-heavy stuff.112 FOR KIDS RIDES AND ROLLERCOASTE R S KEY 56 Ratanga Junction There will be the calm kids who get their kicks at the Scratch Patch (see key 97) and then there will be those who need to be strapped in and hurtling along the track of a rollercoaster in order to really be having the time of their lives. And that’s why someone had the bright idea of building Ratanga Junction. hitch a ride on the Temperance Flyer train between Diamond Devil and Monkey Falls or bump to their heart’s content on the Rats and Cats Bumper Cars. which will make you wonder how secure that burger in your stomach is. The Simulator promises to take you to ‘the frontiers of oblivion’. but what will truly get your adrenaline going is the ride Ratanga Junction is famous for: the Cobra. on Crocodile Gorge you race along a man-made river. Small children can hop onto a convoy of trucks through Elephant Rock. This suspended looping coaster races around a 779-metre track at almost 100 km/h while your feet dangle free. otherwise it’s cheers to those new Nikes! Sadly.co. which change every now and then but are. Above: Everyone having a good time at Ratanga Junction? Seems like it! (back map. Visible from the N1 highway next to the enormous Canal Walk shopping centre. ten days around Easter. but still next to the Canal Walk shopping centre. The Bushwhacker is a gentle rollercoaster. from December to mid-January. 0861 200 300 and www.za .ratanga. at the end of it all. late June to mid-July and another ten days towards the end of September. key 56) Detail: The rides are only open during Western Cape school holidays.
S U R F I N G E N J OY T H E O C E A N 113 Surfing From humble beginnings. Detail: www. which is a rolling left. The best waves are closely guarded secrets.wavescape. standing up being the first big moment. Kommetjie is a surfer’s haven. Dunes (far along Noordhoek beach) and Crayfish Factory (between Kommetjie and Scarborough). Gary’s Surf School on 021 788 9839 and www. Experienced surfers have many spots to choose from around the peninsula.za is a good site for all South African surfing.co.kahunasurf. you’ll see other novices just like you – it’s not intimidating at all. you’ve got to know what you’re doing with many of the Cape’s waves. . situated off the Sentinel. key 57). As you can judge by the names. If you sign up for a surfing lesson with Gary Kleynhans in Muizenberg. making it the oldest one in the country. with many of the best waves such as Long Beach. Sport & Surf in Long Street on 021 426 4550. surfing has become a favourite pastime of thousands of South Africans who live by the coast – and those exiled Joburgers who risk getting their boards bashed by luggage handlers whenever they fly down for a holiday. Beginners of all ages start out on longboards to learn the basics. The Gat (Llandudno). Kahuna Surfing Academy on 021 783 4965 and www.garysurf. Lifestyle Surf Shop in Muizenberg on 021 788 8218.co.com. and then graduate to short-boards as their skills and confidence levels grow. perfect for intermediate surfers. Gary’s Surf School has been around since 1989. but here are some with a good reputation when the weather and conditions are right: Glen Beach (Camps Bay). around the corner from Hout Bay.za. The consistent waves at Muizenberg make it the perfect place to learn. Dungeons. but is only for big-wave surfers because the waves can be anything between 5 and 20 metres! KEY 57 Photos: Early morning surfers at Muizenberg (above) and loyal followers of the waves outside The Big Blue surf shop (next pages) in Muizenberg (back map. is the Cape’s most famous spot. Boneyards. Outer Kom and The Boiler to be found there.
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Fun Car on 073 442 4273 and www.za . with maybe one or two longer trips along the way. you can hire a Nissan Tiida at the airport and cruise out to Hermanus or up the West Coast in perfect peace of mind. so if you’re one of them you’ll be looking for something with a little more character. coolest cars to rent during your stay here. But people who love cars from another era will tell you that peace of mind is boring. Motor Classic also organises three six-day rallies every year. Above: You can hire a 1970 Jaguar E Type 4. Best Beetle on 021 981 4113 and www. They do day-trips around the peninsula and the winelands.za. which are based at 1 Waterloo Road in the City Bowl (front map. key 58). If you don’t have a motorbike licence. They’re ideal if you’re only going to potter around the peninsula.co. don’t miss the two-day long Classic Car and Bike Show during the last weekend of January in Diep River.za. If you are a true enthusiast of all things classic and vintage.za. and longer trips up the West Coast and into the Overberg. Motor Classic Rentals have everything from an ancient 1916 Crossley 8 J Tourer to a modern classic like the zippy Jaguar XK8 on their books. it’s very expensive. but if you are Elton John you will not want to be seen in anything but a 1958 Rolls Royce Silvercloud II. which take you through some of the Cape’s most scenic areas and along its famous roads such as Chapman’s Peak Drive. It is not cheap: in fact.co.co.funcar. Cape Sidecar Adventures offer tours in vintage World War II 750cc sidecar motorbikes. you can always just chill in the sidecar and let someone else drive for you.motorclassic. Detail: Motor Classic Rentals on 021 461 7368 and www.3 Roadster like this from Motor Classic Rentals.sidecars.116 CRUISE IN ST YLE KEY 58 Cruise around in a classic Yes.co. Cape Sidecar Adventures on 021 434 9855 and www.bestbeetle. VW Beetles are everywhere in Cape Town and they’re some of the cheapest. Between Best Beetle and Fun Car you will definitely find a ‘Volksie’ to suit your tastes. They also have motorbikes and off-road vehicles.
Their breeding colonies are usually on the small islands off the coasts of these two countries. Boulders Beach is now part of the Table Mountain National Park. Adult birds can weigh up to 3. In 1985 two breeding pairs suddenly decided to make Boulders Beach outside Simon’s Town their home. Support the South African Foundation for the Conservation of Coastal Birds (SANCCOB) at www. north of Robben Island off the West Coast. It was however a gift from above for the tourism industry in the area. and their new choice of home was all the more surprising considering that Simon’s Town was already extensively developed by that time. at Port Elizabeth. However cute they look.za . keep in mind that they can draw blood with an almighty peck.org. There is no record of African penguins breeding here previously. so please don’t make any attempt to touch them.sanparks. granite boulder-strewn beach.co.za and 021 786 2329. making their nests in the vegetation next to the stunning. Today. KEY 59 Above: An African penguin at Boulders Beach (back map. African penguins are only found off the South African and Namibian coastlines. On Dassen Island. key 59). access to the penguins is controlled and you can view them from a raised walkway. Bird Island in Algoa Bay. 48 000 African penguins congregate. Detail: www.A F R I CA N P E N G U I N S B O U L D E R S B E AC H 117 African penguins at Boulders Until recently known as Jackass penguins (because of the braying sounds they make).sanccob. This is nothing compared to the estimated 1. one of only three mainland based colonies – the other two being near Hermanus and at Betty’s Bay.6 kg and their diet includes sardines. before hunting and egg collecting decimated their numbers. is the easternmost colony. pilchards and squid.5 million birds that once called the island home. Today there are about 3 000 birds on the beach. they are mostly threatened by oil pollution and diminishing food resources. More birds soon joined them.
Something few locals will be able to tell you is that Parow was named after a German sea captain whose ship was wrecked in Table Bay in 1865 and who subsequently settled here. or trekkers. Even fewer will know that Elsies River derives its name from a farmer. Cross over the railway tracks and the Liesbeek River and you’ll have entered the industrial suburbs of Ndabeni and Maitland. key 60) offers a glimpse of the less-travelled working class side of Cape Town. who farmed here in the 1690s. Ruyterwacht and Parow are strictly working class no-nonsense areas. The residential suburbs of Goodwood. as it’s really long and not all that safe throughout its length. branch off to the left – this is the start of Voortrekker Road. but we can’t think of a strip which better showcases Cape Town at its most everyday. you can see Voortrekker Road clearly as the big. long before the frantic N1 highway was constructed. At the Salt River circle.118 VOOR TREKKER ROAD THE EVERYDAY KEY 60 Voortrekker Road We are pretty sure there are no other tour guides advising you to cruise down Voortrekker Road. straight road to the right of the N1. Elsie van Suurwaarde. Vasco. . The best way to explore Voortrekker Road is by car. Standing at the lower cable car station under Table Mountain. Photos: Grills fit for every braai imaginable are for sale at the Braaivleis Sentrum (above). while the rest of Voortrekker Road (back map. where there isn’t much to see apart from an enormous cemetery. To reach it. which becomes Newmarket Street and then Albert Road. This road used to be the main route out of the city to the north. who explored the South African interior. drive out from the city centre via Strand Street. ‘Voortrekkers’ was the Afrikaans name given to the early pioneers.
You can buy a regular grill for a day’s picnicking (see key 101 for great braai spots) or an expensive. the Africa Wrestling Alliance (AWA) hosts events at the Parow Civic Centre (also known as the House of Pain) every now and then. Proprietor John Brown opened the business in 1976. modern behemoth which will be the envy of your neighbour. the Braaivleis Sentrum. It specialises in every conceivable gadget you could ever need in order to braai your perfect cut of meat. Estelle’s Bistro on 021 592 7517. and chicken tikka. Detail: Braaivleis Sentrum on 021 948 0458. The city’s oldest braai (barbeque) accessory store. is situated at 227 Voortrekker Road. signage shops. gatsbys stuffed with viennas or Russians. calamari. See www.awfwrestle. mother-and-daughter team Estelle and Joh-Nelle Maria make delicious soccer-themed breakfasts (choose between Arsenal and Kaizer Chiefs). The cheapest item on the menu is called ‘The Poor Man’s Friend’ and consists of a slice of toast with jam – who can fault such an establishment? Voortrekker Road ceases to be (in name only – you can continue onwards to Kuils River and eventually Stellenbosch) not far past the Braaivleis Sentrum. if you’re planning to stay for several months and want to buy a cheap second-hand car. In fact. so you can either turn around and drive back along the same route to the city or take one of the escape routes to the N1 for a speedier return. masala steak. Entertainment: If you’re a wrestling fan.’ Parow and the next suburb. Here. even if that neighbour happens to be George Foreman.119 ‘We can’t think of a strip which better showcases Cape Town at its most everyday. It’s all wholesale butcheries. liquor stores and car dealerships.com . offer a wide array of shops and businesses – not one of them is quaint or hip. Bellville. Voortrekker Road is a good place to hunt for a bargain. Our favourite spot for a meal on Voortrekker Road is the humble Estelle’s Bistro (156 Voortrekker Road).
Here you can touch and hold members of the playful troop of resident squirrel monkeys. jewellery and hairclips before you enter the enclosure. reptiles. key 61) belongs to the finely feathered of the domestic.30 am and 1 pm and again from 2 pm to 3. but the rest of the World of Birds (back map. . A visit to the Monkey Jungle is essential. Much of the World of Birds is immediately impressive.30 am and 4. but there are also monkeys. There’s no need to be there first thing in the morning. While the entire World of Birds is the perfect place for kids. There is always a World of Birds volunteer present to ensure that everything remains under control. porcupines. small buck. lovebirds and conures in your ears. A visit to the World of Birds cannot be rushed. birds of prey and the cormorants happen between 11.15 pm. hanging around with the squirrel monkeys is an experience they will never forget. Try to be there by 11 am though. Sure. penguins. otherwise the sheer diversity of its inhabitants will be missed. so make sure you secure all your small change.30 pm. so it’s a great excursion for a lazy day. you might feel that there’s nothing but feathered. because feeding times for some of the top attractions such as pelicans. over 3 000 individuals and upwards of 400 different species are housed here. and multicoloured mayhem in store for you. exotic and indigenous kind. The Monkey Jungle is only open between 11. In total.120 WORLD OF BIRDS HOUT BAY KEY 61 The World of Birds The World of Birds is about much more than just birds. The cheeky primates – originally from South America – have a penchant for anything which they can pilfer from your person or pockets. with the initial racket of parakeets. such as the brightly coloured Photos: The squirrel monkeys (above) run the show in the Monkey Jungle. raccoons and more.
. 021 790 2730 and www. the World of Birds is not only a brilliant day of entertainment for the casual tourist.org. which is difficult to see elsewhere in South Africa. crowned cranes and saddle-billed storks. the more memorable your day will become.za Directions: Follow signs from Main Road or Victoria Road in Hout Bay. Walter Mangold and his team have cared for about 200 injured or distressed birds for every month of the park’s existence. The World of Birds is on the left some distance down Valley Road.worldofbirds. One of our favourite sights is the diminutive hedgehog tenrec. Reliant entirely on donations for its continued existence. the pet trade and unfortunate road accidents. but also a haven for species trapped in the crossfire of human encroachment. and provides them with a home if they cannot be reintroduced back into the wild. the luminous pink presence of the scarlet ibises and the stately strut of the large blue cranes. There is a small cafeteria on the premises (but you are welcome to bring your own picnic basket) and a shop that sells T-shirts and other gifts.’ parakeets. Fans of the popular TV show Meerkat Manor will be overjoyed to hear that there are also some meerkats that can be ogled from close by as they dig around or simply sit and sun their satisfied bellies (they are a tad bulkier than their wild cousins). The institution also cares for injured and sick animals and birds. World of Birds founder. Detail: Open every day of the year from 9 am to 5 pm.121 ‘Over 3 000 individuals and upwards of 400 different species are housed here. a native from Madagascar and cuter than you can possibly imagine with its delicate features. though. such as the bald ibis. especially if you’re an amateur photographer. The more patient you are. The World of Birds is the largest bird park in Africa and provides an invaluable service in the protection and breeding of certain endangered species.
key 62). so park the car and take a stroll. You can still take the train here – the station lies next to the sea – and while fishing is no longer the be-all and end-all of the village. boutiques and book shops (see key 103). By 1883. it still plays a strong role. the place is just so quaint that you can’t help but fall in love with it. In the same genre of stall-the-morning is the Lino Café (Colyn Road). galleries. where you can spend the day exploring the harbour and the several antique shops (such as The Railway House Furniture Shop. antique shops. It’s a hangout for many locals who plan the next move from here.122 KALK BAY SEASIDE TOWN KEY 62 Kalk Bay Kalk Bay is arguably the top tourist destination on the eastern side of the peninsula for the sheer variety of dining and shopping options available within a very short. then it was home to a crew of shipwrecked Filipinos whose descendants still live here and who started the town’s fishing industry. The Main Road is cluttered with eateries. The town has a colourful history. The takeaway fish menu is huge and Photos: You can take the train from Cape Town station all the way to Kalk Bay (back map. It once was an important whaling centre. opposite page) and eateries. which refers to the lime (‘kalk’ in Afrikaans) once produced here by burning sea shells in kilns. Kalky’s is another highlight. which also has art exhibitions and sells interesting knitwear in addition to ace espresso and juices. The Olympia Café & Deli (134 Main Road) is renowned both for its food and coffee. the railway had reached the area and the population mix changed again as some people started living out here and commuting to work in the city centre of Cape Town. Despite its unglamorous name. At the harbour. walkable distance. . The general concensus usually is that staying put might in fact be the best idea of all.
The Brass Bell on 021 788 5455. kob. creating the most incredibly delicate jewellery in the shape of natural seeds. Cape to Cuba on 021 788 1566. often with the help of some colourful language. Detail: www.org .katherineglenday. unique gifts. Katherine Glenday on www. Nic Bladen on www.kalkbay. Many artists and musicians call the town home.org.com. hang around until a catch comes in to see how the activity suddenly heightens. com. pods and flowers. It’s a famous fish-and-chips place (also see key 33). and Polana Restaurant (also in the harbour) specialises in Portuguese food. copper or silver – they make excellent. grilled crayfish. and calamari. For something a little more formal. Artvark on www. You can have your linefish grilled or pickled and you can buy red roman or snoek heads. Pop in at Katherine Glenday’s The Forge porcelain studio at 12 Windsor Street. Polana on 021 788 7162.artvark. Olympia Café & Deli on 021 788 6396.123 ‘The place is just so quaint that you can’t help but fall in love with it. so be prepared to queue on weekends and public holidays. Cape salmon. Kalk Bay is still a working harbour and the ideal place to purchase fresh fish. so walk over for a chat and make a polite enquiry as to how the biting is going. and then skilled hands gut and ‘vlek’ the fish. Fish are offloaded. Chances are there will be a seal or two in the bay and people also fish from the harbour wall. yellowtail. if you’re missing Havana there’s Cape to Cuba (Main Road). Even if you’re not buying.’ includes snoek. Artvark (48 Main Road) sells unusual cutlery made of brass. there’s Harbour House Restaurant (in the harbour). Across the road in the Kalk Bay Sculpture Studio (11 Windsor Street) Nic Bladen works with silver and bronze.nicbladen. The Brass Bell is a long-time favourite (Main Road). Harbour House Restaurant on 021 788 4133.
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Atlantic Beach Golf Club on 021 553 2223. then the Rondebosch Common (1891) and eventually Ottery (1906) where the illustrious RCGC is still based today. play continued at the common for a few years. This nine-hole links course overlooks Windmill Beach and the tiny cove of Froggy Pond and during whale season it’s entirely possible to be distracted by a breaching southern right whale just as you line up your putt. Prime golf courses a little further afield are the Stellenbosch Golf Club and Arabella at Kleinmond between Betty’s Bay and Hermanus. the fourth doubled up as municipal tip and people had free reign to graze their cattle and ride their horses on the course. even though the first hole played host to rugby games on Saturdays. Westlake Golf Club on 021 788 2020. the most scenic place to swing a club must be the small Simon’s Town course. your first tee should be at the Milnerton Golf Club. Despite the club’s move. which is rated as one of the best in the country. beyond the suburbs of Blouberg and Table View. . The course was first laid out at the Wynberg Military Camp (1886). Simon’s Town Country Club on 021 786 1233. If you want to play a round of golf with Table Mountain as backdrop. Rondebosch Golf Club on 021 689 4176. Further along the same road. Milnerton Golf Club on 021 552 1047. Above: An early-morning round at the Milnerton Golf Club (see back map. key 63). Royal Cape Golf Club on 021 761 6551.126 GOLF SPORT KEY 63 Golf Within nine days of arriving at the Cape to head up the British forces. Lt General Henry Torrens had his mind on fun and games and set up a meeting towards establishing what would eventually become the Royal Cape Golf Club (1885). Detail: Mowbray Golf Club on 021 685 3018. Today. is the Atlantic Beach Golf Club. Gatvol (fed up) players who lived in the area then formed the Mowbray Golf Club in 1910. just ten minutes from the city centre along the R27 which curves around Table Bay. Clovelly Golf Club on 021 784 2100.
In addition to the fresh air. Thanks to the horses. A number of residents own horses and there are also riding schools in the area. The town got its name in 1743 as it was the northern corner (Noordhoek) of a larger farm called Slangkop. Sleepy Hollow also offers pony rides that are ideal for kids under the age of 12 who don’t have riding experience. breakfasts and chocolate brownies. these take place on weekdays.horserides. The Dunes on 021 789 1723 and www. en route to its new owners in New Zealand. which serves great burgers. grew crops to sell to the ships which had started to drop anchor in Simon’s Town. some of that agrarian charm remains. like those further down the peninsula at Imhoff ’s Gift (see key 95). Check out the worm farm where the food waste from the restaurants gets turned into compost by the worms – nifty! KEY 64 Above: Riding on the beach at Noordhoek (back map. Noordhoek Farm Village is in the centre of town and has craft shops and three restaurants: Nag’s Head. Noordhoek Farm Village on www. the wreck of the Kakapo is a highlight on the trips. The Kakapo ran aground here in 1900. key 64) with Kommetjie in the distant background. based close to the beach. Detail: Sleepy Hollow on 021 789 2341 and www.za. Noordhoek has become the peninsula’s postcard setting for horse riding on the beach.za . These regularly compete in local races.co. If you are staying for a long period of time and want to take riding lessons.H O R S E R I D I N G AT N O O R D H O E K 127 Horse riding at Noordhoek Through design or default. The Foodbarn and Café Roux.co. offer rides that start out from the Noordhoek beach side and head out towards the south. Both Sleepy Hollow and the Dunes. The Dunes has 40 resident thoroughbred racehorses in its stables. Farmers here. sleepyhollowhorseriding.noordhoekvillage. horseback birding and the opportunity to see dolphins in the breakers.co. with the crew literally just walking ashore – it was a brand-new ship too.za.
Above: Fish Hoek (back map. a takeaway joint with a vast menu. Fish Hoek Beach Sailing Club on 021 782 3205. the sea used to cover this piece of land and the southern tip of the peninsula was an island.128 FISH HOEK SEASIDE TOWN KEY 65 Fish Hoek Despite its name. Kalk Bay (see key 62) – it lacks the quaintness. sheltered bathing. The Bayside restaurant complex on the beach has three dining options: the Galley Restaurant. Fish Hoek is a ‘dry town’. Detail: www. The Fish Hoek Beach Sailing club is the largest beachcat sailing club in the country (also see key 12). During the Cretaceous period.com. Fish Hoek does not feel as much like a fishing village as its neighbour. and Drifters. so the situation is no longer quite as desperate. The back of the town extends into a low-lying area that extends across the peninsula past Sun Valley to Long Beach. Masiphumelele and Ocean View. Bayside complex on 021 782 3354. the Beachcomber Bistro. Thanks to a bizarre legal relic dating from almost 200 years ago. Fish Hoek’s real highlight is its beautiful beach: the bay is sheltered and very pleasant to swim in. except for one notable exception: there are no liquor stores. The main road has all the necessary shops. Simon’s Town was the major British naval port at the Cape and Fish Hoek lay on the main road between the port and Cape Town. The prudent (some sailors surely called him something else behind his back) Lord Charles Somerset ordained that no establishment in Fish Hoek was to sell alcohol so that sailors on leave would not get too drunk! Thankfully you can now buy alcohol in the bars and restaurants. .fishhoek. Back then. Noordhoek. key 65) offers calm.
KEY 66 Above: Pieter-Dirk Uys on stage in Darling (back map. The diversity is due to the fact that different veld types such as Strandveld. Renosterveld. Darling has also been developing a name for itself as a small but dynamic wineproducing area.co. Groote Post and Cloof. actor and writer Pieter-Dirk Uys opened the Evita se Perron theatre – a nod to both Argentina’s Evita Peron and the fact that the theatre is housed in an old station building (‘perron’ is Afrikaans for ‘station platform’).darlingtourism. Since 1917 there has been an annual Wildflower Show in town – this usually happens in September. it may be no surprise that another of the town’s big attractions is its wildflowers. Dressed up as Evita. an enormous orchid farm just outside town. Uys tested the boundaries when it came to poking fun at the 1980s apartheid government.darlingwildflowers. Ormonde Vineyards. Detail: Evita se Perron at www. Darling Cellars. The shows vary from new works in progress to re-runs of classic shows and characters.co. Rietveld and Sandveld overlap and mix here.DA R L I N G DAY T R I P 129 Darling Darling lies off the main thoroughfares which snake up the West Coast (the R27 and the N7). www. Today you can book seats for a show preceded by a traditional meal (such as bobotie) in the intimate theatre decorated with some fantastic Afrikaner-kitsch. this meant it was ‘discovered’ quite late. is open on the first Saturday of the month from November to May.za and 022 492 3930 (bookings).evita. With a name as cute as Darling (although it was boringly named after a military man and not a lover’s term of endearment). In 1995.co. In fact. Duckitt Nurseries.za. In addition to Evita se Perron. a character which created him as much as he created her. the town also boasts several other restaurants. antique and gift shops. it took one of South Africa’s most famous performers to really put it on the map. key 66) as Evita Bezuidenhout.za . Notable wine farms include Tukulu. www.
the origins of which are inextricably linked to the early occupation by Dutch settlers. Vine cuttings first came to the Cape in 1656. whose pioneering farms are at the very heart of this vibrant. business. it’s somewhere vaguely around Stellenbosch (key 71). as these are the closest ports of call. Grapes are also grown along the Orange and Vaal Rivers in the Northern Cape. . The Cape is the home of the South African wine industry. when the commander of the Dutch East India Company’s newly established refreshment station. Gautengers who come to visit the city for work or holiday will almost certainly be expected to disembark with a couple of carry-on wine boxes upon their return to Johannesburg. Hendrik Boom. A small museum at Solms Delta wine farm. took possession of the precious cargo and gave it to his head gardener.130 THE WINEL ANDS EXPERIEN CE KEY 67 The Winelands The Cape is synonymous with South African wine. through the experience and eyes of the workers of Solms Delta. but wine is produced all over the Western Cape. but these regions Photos: Harvesting under way at Delheim (above) and autumn comes to a Kanonkop vineyard (opposite page) in the Cape Winelands (back map. does a great job at representing the history of the land and the people. dating from pre-colonial times to the present-day. when the uninitiated talk about ‘the winelands’. Labour for the refreshment station became increasingly dependent on a steady stream of slaves from the Dutch East Indies. and later the small group of French Huguenots. now global. Museum van de Caab. Jan van Riebeeck. and it was no different when it came to the establishment of more commercial farms as the little colony grew. In general. key 67). Paarl (key 70) and Franschhoek (key 105).
you will see the characteristic road signs.za . Simonsig on 021 888 4900 and www.za. as Hans Otto Hoheisen only planted vines here in 1940. Vine Hopper on 021 882 8112 and www.’ are mostly table grape producing areas. on a farm established in 1699. You might be pleasantly surprised! Delheim lies on the slopes of Simonsberg outside Stellenbosch. Deli) he handed it over to now legendary winemaker Spatz Sperling.za. all offering something slightly different. Sperling was one of Detail: Museum van de Caab on 021 874 3937 and www.com. Olifants River.tokara.delheim. but the beauty of the winelands is that it will never cease to surprise you.muratie.co.co. The fact is. or one in an unfashionable area. because there are so many. with a few exceptions. we’ll look at Constantia separately (key 73). kanonkop. Take a chance on a newly established one.co. Cabrière on 021 876 2630 and www. and this is no easy task. Delheim on 021 888 4600 and www. Worcester. Robertson. As the oldest region. Kanonkop on 021 884 4656 and www. vinehopper.za. the Swartland.za.za. Swellendam. After changing the farm’s name to Delheim (in honour of his wife. other Cape wine districts include Durbanville.co. Piketberg and the Little Karoo. In addition to those mentioned above. and wherever you drive around in the above regions. cabriere. the Overberg.co. The trick is to know which ones are the best. you can take any of the main or secondary roads around these towns and you’ll find a wine farm or five. famous wine estates. Tokara on 021 808 5900 and www. Tulbagh. It’s a relatively young vineyard though. Wellington.simonsig. We mention some of our favourites here. and the farm’s produce has gradually become one of the region’s most sought-after wines. Muratie on 021 865 2330 and www.131 ‘The beauty of the winelands is that it will never cease to surprise you.solmsdelta. Don’t always head straight for the big. So-called ‘wine routes’ are in general marketing creations.co.za. co.
Cabrière also makes good Pinot Noir and . off the R44 at the foot of Simonsberg mountain. Frans Malan of Simonsig and Neil Joubert of Spier were the other two men with a plan back in 1971. Kanonkop is also near Stellenbosch and carries the name of a small hill from which a cannon used to be fired to alert local farmers to the arrival of new ships in Table Bay. Simonsig has in recent years won awards for its Chenin Blanc and Pinotage. It boasts an excellent restaurant. It was bred by Professor Abraham Perold in 1925 by crossing Pinot Noir and Cinsaut.132 THE WINEL ANDS EXPERIEN CE ‘The Stellenbosch Wine Route attracts nearly half a million visitors annually. hence it could be harvested earlier. Muratie wine estate has a 300-year-old legacy and has recently won awards for its Shiraz. three men instrumental in the establishment of the Stellenbosch Wine Route in 1971. Kanonkop is known for its excellent Pinotage and Cabernet Sauvignon. Tokara is a wine and olive farm (although it also produces potstill brandy) on the Helshoogte Pass between Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. incidentally. It proved its value by being an earlier-ripening variety. cobwebs in the cellar are part of the charm. it’s probably better known today simply as a tourist destination. which today attracts nearly half a million visitors annually . Cabrière lies over the pass in the Franschhoek valley and is the home of Pierre Jourdan and Haute Cabrière wines.’ Photos: At Muratie (above and opposite page). In fact. was the first locally developed grape to achieve commercial success. like Delheim. Pinotage. and Spier has become known as much more than just a wine farm. It is situated. a one-stop shop where you can send the kids off to feed the ducks while you do some fine dining (see key 83) or enjoy great music and theatre during the Summer Arts season.
co. www.za. Mont Destin pinotage bath enquiries on 021 875 5870. cellar tours and tastings.vanryn. If drinking wine is not enough for you. is distilled in Robertson and the distillery can be visited.za. .za. you don’t have to pay corkage).platteronline. The country’s most popular brandy. Jourdan was a Huguenot family who settled on the farm in 1694. which operates a shuttle bus – you can hop on and off at different wine farms. Backsberg Estate on 021 875 5141 and www. A company that specialises in this is Vine Hopper. This is just a small sample of some excellent wine farms. among others.za. Backsberg Estate and the Oude Molen Brandy Museum. please don’t drive back home.backsberg. In fact. which is updated annually and lists more than 5 000 wines. rather get someone else to take you.wineroute.co. which takes you to Van Ryn’s Distillery & Brandy Cellar. Some farms sell picnic baskets which you can enjoy in their lovely grounds if you don’t want a sit-down meal – Boschendal is especially pretty. South Africa also produces some of the world’s finest brandy. There are also many tour companies that offer winetasting tours – simply enquire at your hotel as to which ones come recommended.za are both decent jump sites for general information. Detail: Van Ryn’s Brandy on 021 881 3875 and www.klipdrift.co. try the John Platter South African Wine Guide.co.’ sparkling wines.co. you can take a pinotage bath in the vineyard at Mont Destin with your partner – apparently it’s very good for your skin (and no. Remember: if you’re going to be tasting wine all day long.winelands. Klipdrift on 021 809 7000 and www. John Platter South African Wine Guide on www. tourismcapewinelands. Remember that most of the wine farms have restaurants. a service of the Adventure Shop (see key 71). there is also a brandy route in Stellenbosch. For expert opinions on local wines.133 ‘Some farms sell picnic baskets which you can enjoy in their lovely grounds.com.za and www.co. Klipdrift. Stellenbosch wine routes on www.
built in 1777 to serve as a winter home to the Dutch governor. It is situated in the Dockyard. He was a Great Dane.. Able Seaman Just Nuisance. but this is where the line terminates. there are guided tours. key 68) is a bustling seaside town where the statue of Just Nuisance (opposite page) is a major attraction.134 SIMON’S TOWN SEASIDE TOWN KEY 68 Simon’s Town Simon’s Town is the biggest and also the last of the towns on the eastern side of the peninsula before nature resumes its dominance towards Cape Point. During World War II. The SA Naval Museum displays everything from ship and submarine models to sea mines (nasty-looking things) to uniforms. The Simon’s Town Museum (Court Road) contains some very good exhibits which help to bring the village’s past to life. During the festival. 300 ships visited the dry dock for repairs. R. . Simon’s Town became a navy town when the British reclaimed the Cape in 1806 and based their South Atlantic Squadron here. You can take the train all the way out here from Cape Town station. Possibly the best thing about Simon’s Town’s tourism industry is that a large part of it is built around a dog. After Jock of the Bushveld.N. which can be accessed from St George Street. but during that time he became the friend of just about Photos: Simon’s Town (back map. must be the country’s most famous hound. Today Simon’s Town is home to the South African Navy. and lived for just seven years (1937–1944). a choir performance and a night shoot. The Navy Festival happens in March and the three-day event is attended by as many as 100 000 people as the navy opens up controlled public access to their ships for a limited time. whose ships and submarines can be seen in the harbour. It is housed in ‘The Residency’. the main road that runs through Simon’s Town.
At that point. the only place in the world where great white sharks are known to breach the surface of the water (they can literally ‘leap’ completely clear) in their efforts to catch the seals. Simon’s Town Museum on 021 786 3046.com .’ every sailor in Simon’s Town. Apex Predators on 082 364 2738 and www. To see a unique natural event. A good place for a meal is The Meeting Place (98 St George Street). park in the small parking lot on your right. which is part coffee shop. He jumped trains and travelled to town with them and was eventually officially enlisted into the navy. You’ll see a tiny habitation called Smitswinkel Bay below.N. R. The Meeting Place on 021 7861986. are renowned nature photographers and have facilitated many documentaries shot at Seal Island about the unusual hunting behaviour of the sharks there. Just Nuisance’s statue is on Jubilee Square (next to St George Street) and is a popular place to pose for a photograph.com. Walk to the edge of the road and look down. Find the footpath down and the beach is yours. must be the country’s most famous hound. They offer delicious buffet lunches over weekends. Looking for a ‘secret’ beach? Follow the coastal road south towards Cape Point until it suddenly swerves inland. during which you will learn everything you ever wanted to know about sharks.. Detail: For more information see www.135 ‘Able Seaman Just Nuisance. Chris and Monique Fallows. go on a shark breaching tour to Seal Island. part deli and part restaurant. April through to September are the best months for ‘airborne’ shark viewing. If you really want to get into it. SA Naval Museum on 021 787 4686.simonstown. they organise trips that last as long as ten days. The couple behind Apex Predators.apexpredators.
1) in the Bo-Kaap. Most of this community’s ancestors came to the Cape as slaves in the 17th and 18th centuries and the concept of the Cape minstrel carnival has its roots in the emancipation of these slaves in 1838. but this role reversal struck a chord with the now ex-slaves. especially in the Bo-Kaap and Rose Street. Photos: Some of the major Kaapse Klopse (above) revelry happens in Rose Street (front map.136 ANNUAL EVENTS ENTERTAINMENT KEY 69 Annual events Cape Town plays host to a plethora of annual events. with even the smallest boy often holding some kind of instrument. The Cape Argus Cycle Tour (opposite) sets off at dawn from Hertzog Boulevard in the city centre. some American minstrels visited the Cape. KAAPSE KLOPSE Starting on New Year’s Day. Kaapse Klopse events take place throughout January – a lot of it is concentrated in the city. They were white and blackened their faces. the city grooves to the often shambolic but always infectious tunes and revelry of the Kaapse Klopse or the Cape Minstrels. In 1848. This musical tradition is still strong within the Klopse. but some of the talent contests happen at the Athlone Stadium. On average. key 69. while others have been happening for many years and are steeped in rich tradition. Here’s a quick round-up of some of the more prominent ones. They painted their mostly darker faces white and mocked their former masters in a playful manner through witty songs. . The Klopse are organised into troupes (called clubs) from all over the peninsula and are almost exclusively made up of residents from the coloured community. Some come and go. 75% of the people who start the race manage to finish it.
’ J&B MET Usually run at the end of January. it’s an event to see and at which to be seen.co. heads south to Muizenberg and Simon’s Town. around 40 000 people tackle the 109-kilometre route. where the first race was held in 1883. Junior Cycle Tour (6–12 years). fashions is part of the tradition. a five-day professional race.137 ‘Nowadays. Cape Argus Cycle Tour on www. mountain bike race and the Giro del Capo. Even if you have no interest in horse racing. The race starts in the Cape Town city centre. as dressing up in fine. which traverses the entire peninsula. turns across the peninsula at Smitswinkel Bay and then heads up the western flank via Ocean View. with 525 entrants. Every year has a dress-up theme. Detail: J&B Met on www. Hout Bay and Sea Point back to the city.za. The English. CAPE ARGUS CYCLE TOUR ‘The Argus’ was first held in 1978.jbmet. Chapman’s Peak Drive. Nowadays. first held horse races on the Green Point Common. around 40 000 people tackle the 109-kilometre route. but the officers later moved their antics to Kenilworth. There is a Tricycle Tour (toddlers under six years). who ruled the Cape after the Dutch.co. More than 50 000 people congregate at Kenilworth Race Course for a day of sports and partying. ‘the Met’ is the premier horse racing event on the Cape calendar. ‘The Argus’ is the world’s largest individually timed cycle race and has expanded to include other races during the preceding week.za . and occasionally zany.cycletour. The Argus is usually held on the second Sunday of March.
Local guitar virtuoso Jimmy Dludlu (opposite page) is a regular at the Cape Town International Jazz Festival. from dance to retro-80s. the Castle and Ratanga Junction have all been used as venues in the past. when the city is chock-a-block. Everyone makes a grand entrance at MCQP.138 ANNUAL EVENTS ENTERTAINMENT ‘Without a doubt the biggest and most fabulous party of the year …’ Photos: The Mother City Queer Project (above) is the most fun you’ll have all year with your clothes (or some of them) on. A local high school. CAPE TOWN INTERNATIONAL JAZZ FESTIVAL Now running for more than a decade. more than 40 local and international acts perform on five stages. world music stars like Cesario Evora. Lights. Over the two days of the festival. with a Master of Ceremonies commenting on your group’s costumes and spotlights concentrating all the attention on you for a second – it’s make or break time! . and soul acts like Roberta Flack. Action! and Farm Fresh. Decorations are lavish and there are numerous dance floors catering for all music tastes.2). MCQP is usually staged in December. Past themes have included Circus. Camera. the Cape Town International Jazz Festival is held annually at the Cape Town International Convention Centre (CTICC) on the foreshore. The line-up is not strictly jazz. MOTHER CITY QUEER PROJECT Without a doubt the biggest and most fabulous party of the year. key 69. hosted at the Cape Town International Convention Centre (front map. and local hip hop group Skwatta Kamp have also graced the stages. The festival is usually at the end of March or early in April. A creative team plans the event and a new theme is set every year. everyone is welcome – the only rule is that you must dress up according to the theme. While it is a gay event.
The Cape Epic mountain bike race is a newer but hugely popular extreme event. private farm land and through forestry areas. . com has a good. is also set up for a huge.co.capetownjazzfest.za. communal feast right under Table Mountain.cape-epic. This is a charity event.gourmetsa. Cape Town International Convention Centre schedule on www. It ends near Cape Town after starting about 800 km to the east.org.mcqp. The highlight of the event is the Good Food & Wine Show.capetownmagazine. Two Oceans Marathon on www. but there is also Restaurant Week.139 ‘Over the two days of the festival. doesn’t it? And it is. having followed a rugged route over mountain passes. wines and hospitality. A Table of Unity. www. and similar Tables of Unity are staged on the same day in Gauteng and Durban. book for the Table of Unity on 021 797 4500. more than 40 local and international acts perform.’ THE SA GOURMET FESTIVAL Sounds tasty. up-to-date events calendar. when top city restaurants prepare flagship meals that can be sampled at low prices.co. Good Food & Wine Show on www. for this two-week-long festival celebrates all that is good about South African food. com.co. It usually takes place in April. Other big city sporting events include the Two Oceans Marathon. Cape Epic on www. with famous chefs preparing the five-star meal. OTHER BIG EVENTS The Cape Town International Convention Centre hosts a variety of expos.com.za.za.za. which can seat 600 people. entertainment events and conferences throughout the year.twooceansmarathon.1 km and the other event a full marathon at 56 km. It takes place during the last week of March and the first week of April.cticc. Mother City Queer Project on www. Detail: Cape Town International Jazz Festival on www. There is also a City Coffee Route which explores the finest places at which to have your caffeine fix. which follows a route around the peninsula – one event is a half marathon with a distance of 21. It is run on Easter Saturday.
erected in 1975 to celebrate the centenary of the movement to establish Afrikaans as a recognised language. . Like Franschhoek and Stellenbosch. Visible on Paarl Rock as you approach the town via the N1. rounded granite rocks directly to the west of town. The town still glistens today and a cruise down the 11 kilometres of Hoofstraat (Main Street) reveals a well-to-do lifestyle of fine restaurants.140 PA ARL DAY TRIP KEY 70 Paarl After Cape Town and Stellenbosch. clothing stores and fine homes. having been settled by farmers in 1687 and turned into a town in 1720 when its first church was built and the main road laid out. still lies next to the modern main road as the head offices of KWV. coffee shops. La Concorde. Paarl is South Africa’s third oldest town. key 70). It has fantastic old Cape antiques as well as a comprehensive history of the area right up to the present day. is the Afrikaans Language Monument (Taalmonument). The town derives its name from the massive. built in 1787. There is also an Afrikaans language museum (11 Pastorie Avenue) situated in the house where the ‘fathers’ of the language had their first meeting. Paarl makes for a great day trip out of Cape Photos: The Paarl Museum (above) is at 303 Main Street and the Taalmonument (opposite page) just outside Paarl (back map. which is the Afrikaans abbreviation for the Co-operative Wine Growers’ Association. The Paarl Museum is housed in the Ou Pastorie (Old Parsonage). which were witnessed by an early explorer as they glistened like pearls after a rainstorm (‘paarl’ being Dutch for ‘pearl’). One of those early farms.
141 ‘Don’t be surprised if a farming tractor comes past. because it is packed with great eateries where you can brunch or lunch and soak up the atmosphere as the locals go about their business. head into the hills by taking any number of trails in the Paarl Mountain Nature Reserve. Laborie in town. head for Terra Mare (90a Main Street). Why not attempt a slow. If you want to go fancy. anti-clockwise circumnavigation of Paarl Mountain? Start at Fairview. La Romantica (166 Main Road) is part of a small chain of restaurants but can be banked on for quality food and a very homely atmosphere. To build up an appetite. the spectacularly situated Rhebokskloof north of the mountain and finish your day at Seidelberg. They range from a couple of kilometres to ten kilometres in length. Nederburg at the eastern end of town.com . pack your suit and tie and try Bosman’s at the Grande Roche Hotel (Plantasie Street) or if it’s pasta that you crave. trout and bass fishing opportunities and the Millwater Wild Flower Garden which has a fine collection of pincushion and protea species. Don’t be surprised if a farming tractor comes past – some of the old vineyards such as Laborie are right in town. then move to Zandwijk (home to the kosher Kleine Draken Wines). Detail: Paarl Tourism (216 Main Road) on 021 872 0860 and www. Kikka (217 Main Street) is a favourite for its clever mixture as a flower and coffee shop and the Lecca il Gelato Italian ice-cream shop is right next door.paarlonline.’ Town. where there is a Venetian glass-blowing studio and the excellent De Leuwen Jagt restaurant. Paarl is in the heart of the Winelands. with fine wine estates too numerous to mention. There are also mountain biking trails.
replaced by vineyards and a town moving at a leisurely place. Stellenbosch University (opposite) has about 23 000 students and was established in 1866. key 71) and offers everything from bustling shopping areas to quieter sidewalks where you can enjoy something to eat. complete with guides dressed in period clothing. Van der Stel loved the place and it’s thanks to him that the town sports magnificent oak-lined streets such as Dorp Street. it has embraced tourism to such an extent that you are now spoilt for choice as to which coffee shop or restaurant you should dine at. Primarily known as a centre of the winelands and as a student town. Photos: Bird Street (above) is the main road in Stellenbosch (back map. which gives it the nickname of the Eikestad (City of Oaks).142 STELLENBOSC H DAY TRIP KEY 71 Stellenbosch Stellenbosch is less than 45 minutes from the heart of Cape Town. It’s by no means a small town though – it has become a sought-after address and many people live here but work in Cape Town itself. In fact. . Architecture). the only thing worse than rush-hour traffic in Cape Town is rush-hour traffic in Stellenbosch. because Stellenbosch is relatively safe and many of the main attractions are concentrated in a small area. The group of restored buildings depict distinct old Cape building styles prevalent between 1690 and 1870 (also see key 31. Simon van der Stel. the presence of city and sea is gone. One way to avoid the traffic is to park your car and set out on foot. the area was first settled in 1680. Suddenly. but could be a world away. Named after an early Governor at the Cape. The Village Museum (18 Ryneveld Street) is an immaculately maintained museum. where the old town layout and narrow streets simply cannot cope with the large number of vehicles.
Piet Grobler and Hardy Botha. where miniature models of everything from South Africa’s famous luxury train. Oom Samie se Winkel (84 Dorp Street) is a quaint old shop restored to resemble the trading stores of old. was used for military exercises. The Kruithuis was completed in 1777. the Blue Train. Stellenbosch Art Gallery on 021 887 8343 and www. Sasol Art Museum on 021 808 3691.museums.za .co. Right next door is a branch of the popular Melissa’s deli (there is another in Cape Town’s Kloof Street – see key 23). where contemporary and retrospective work is exhibited. but don’t miss the Sasol Art Museum in the same building. to cars and doll houses are displayed.za/stellmus. Many local artists have galleries in town and the Stellenbosch Art Gallery (34 Ryneveld Street) is a good place to pop in for an overview of works.stellenboschtourism. including ones by artists such as Robert Hodgins. The Erfurthuis houses the museum offices and a reference library. If all you really Detail: Stellenbosch Tourism (36 Market Street) on 021 883 3584 and www. Oom Samie se Winkel on 021 887 0797. Other Stellenbosch museums include the VOC Kruithuis (the Dutch East India Company’s gun powder magazine) which dates from a time when the town square.co.org. but thankfully Stellenbosch never saw any serious armed conflict. The University Museum (52 Ryneveld Street) isn’t the most fascinating. University Museum on 021 808 3691. with the products of 106 cellars registered as Stellenbosch wines of origin – but we spoke more about that in key 67. the Braak.za. This is of course wine country. Stellenbosch Museum on 021 887 2948 and www. It sells everything from curios to baskets to brooms and preserves. is the Toy and Miniature Museum (116 Dorp Street).143 ‘You are now spoilt for choice as to which coffee shop or restaurant you should dine at.stellenboschartgallery.’ Something the kids might like.
Sugarbird Manor (Devon Valley Road) serves as starting point for three hikes: the Mountain route (about 15 kilometres). From here. De Akker (90 Dorp Street) is one of the oldest pubs in town and upstairs (which is called The Hidden Cellar) regularly hosts rock bands. in the Klapmutskop conservancy near the farm. Golden Wheat on 021 883 2410. Dirtopia (based at Delvera farm. It is also very popular to hike to the top of Klapmutskop to watch the full moon rise. then the mountains to the east of town are where you need to go.’ Photos: Andringa (above) and Dorp (opposite page) are two of the beautiful oak-lined streets in Stellenbosch. pubs and coffee shops. out to Jonkershoek or through the nearby vineyards. At the Adventure Shop (36 Market Street) you can hire a mountain bike and cycle through the town. Eat out: De Volkskombuis on 021 887 2121. Follow the road out to Jonkershoek. several hiking trails fan out and there is also trout fishing (key 78). which ends at a nature reserve where the Jonkershoek and Stellenbosch mountains rise like a seemingly impenetrable wall. The Blue Orange on 021 887 2052. See if you can catch local legend Valiant Swart with his folk-rocking tunes of love . Wijnhuis on 021 887 5844. If you are staying for the night – and many visitors prefer to base themselves here rather than in Cape Town – there are many places in which to seek out entertainment. on the R44 towards Klapmuts) is a one-stop hiking and biking outfit where you can hire bikes and buy permits for several trails. the Vintner’s route (three kilometres) and the Devon Valley route (nine kilometres). want to do is get out into the plentiful fresh air. L’Olive on 021 887 8985. The Dorp Street Theatre (59 Dorp Street) is an intimate venue which offers an excellent night out of music and fine food. Both offer several good restaurants.144 STELLENBOSC H DAY TRIP ‘… where the Jonkershoek and Stellenbosch mountains rise like a seemingly impenetrable wall. including a vineyard hike.
while the Klein Libertas Theatre is a relaxed venue for music. book a few extra days and immerse yourself properly in the wonders of the area. Next time you come. such as Malay food.co.’ lost and good times found.co. The HB Thom Theatre at the university frequently has good student or professional plays on. For traditional local fare. For entertainment options at Spier. The glasses of red wine there seem to refill themselves! Oude Libertas Amphitheatre is more upmarket and hosts classical music.za Live music and theatre: De Akker on 021 883 3512. Dirtopia on 021 884 4752 and www. . If you feel like sushi.za. Die Mystic Boer (live bands plus good DJs) and Bohemia (talk the night away) are closer to the university and are popular party spots.co. you can’t go wrong with De Volkskombuis (Aan de Wagen Road). poetry readings and non-mainstream theatre. HB Thom Theatre on 021 808 3216.145 ‘You can hire a mountain bike and cycle through the town. for Mediterranean style try Wijnhuis (corner of Church and Andringa streets) and for modern. film festivals and more. Dorp Street Theatre on 021 8866 107 and www. sit down at the amicable L’Olive (Oude Hoek.dirtopia. Jonkershoek Nature Reserve on 021 866 1560. tasty and healthy. Endler Hall on 021 808 2334. Sugarbird Manor on 021 865 2313 and www. Andringa Street) which is run by the principal of the Institute for Culinary Arts. Detail: Adventure Shop on 021 882 8112. Endler Hall (Conservatory of Music) at the university also hosts classical music performances. There are places aplenty at which to dine in Stellenbosch. Klein Libertas Theatre on 021 883 8164. see key 83.za.sugarbirdmanor. The Blue Orange (77 Dorp Street) is just the place for an enormous brunch after a heavy night on the town – don dark glasses and brave the front porch or settle down in the small back garden with the Sunday paper. A brief visit to Stellenbosch will only reveal that you’re but skimming the surface of what can be seen and done.dorpstraat. try Golden Wheat (15 Ryneveld Street). Oude Libertas Amphitheatre on 021 809 7473.
0146 KEY 72 Stellenbosch Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
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Completed in 1920.148 MUIZE NBERG SEASIDE TOWN KEY 72 Muizenberg You would be forgiven for thinking that Muizenberg consists of a row of colourful beach huts and nothing else. a signal is given and the alarm is raised. The result is that. across the bay. and the Hottentots Holland mountains which come to an end at Cape Hangklip. the Cape Flats to one side. . The consistent waves here make it the perfect place to learn to surf. There are benches on which to sit and you can while away an entire afternoon here. But there’s a real town behind the beach huts. A shark-spotter is stationed up here with a pair of binoculars to keep an eye on the surfing area below. over weekends and peak holidays. If a shark is spotted near the surfers or bathers. Armed with binoculars. watching the breakers down below in False Bay. you can even try whale-spotting during season. just above the houses. Roads also converge here. squeezed into a corner where the Cape Flats meet the Muizenberg mountain. One way to escape this is to take Boyes Drive. a beautiful scenic drive which runs along the slopes of Muizenberg. the drive through Muizenberg to Kalk Bay and beyond can slow to a crawl. The scenic Boyes Drive runs across its slopes. key 72) most iconic scene is this one (above) of the multicoloured beach huts used as changing rooms on the main beach. dotted with numerous surfers. The mountain in the background (opposite page) is also known as Muizenberg. you can see Strand and Gordon’s Bay. it offers stunning views over the town below. Muizenberg has not been as fashionable a place as nearby Kalk Bay or St James in Photos: Muizenberg’s (back map. In the distance. with the R310 bringing traffic from the Cape Flats and Main Road (the M4) from Cape Town’s southern suburbs. for this is the image which has become its brand. and the eastern side of the peninsula on the other. You might find a peculiar sight up here if you know what to look for.
sharkspotters. Empire Café on 021 788 1250. Cecil John Rhodes also spent his last years here and died at Rhodes Cottage in 1902. For good food. Shark Spotters on www.info. Fogey’s offers wireless Internet which you are welcome to use as long as you order something to eat and bring your own laptop. It has an upstairs section where you could dig your elbows into a table with a heavy book in front of your eyes and let a few hours slide by without much trouble. watching the breakers down below. thanks to gold magnates like Abe Bailey and Gardner Williams (who made their fortune on the Witwatersrand gold reefs in the late 19th century) who built homes here. Renowned as one of the best surfing spots in the peninsula (see key 57). The Olive Station on 021 788 3264. The Masque Theatre on Main Road has regular shows and The Empire Café (11 York Road) is a great little coffee shop with very friendly service near Surfer’s Corner. the deli section sells olives to die for. a view over the beach and live music.org. but it has become more popular in recent times. Detail: www. but only really took off when the road between Muizenberg and Kalk Bay was fixed up and widened in 1904. . yes. there has recently been development on its beachfront with rejuvenation projects to come. The land adjacent to the new road became sought after and.za. The Olive Station (165 Main Road) is one of the best places to dine on light meals and.muizenberg. Fogey’s Railway House Restaurant on 021 788 3252. the area opened up for development when the railway was completed in 1822. Masque Theatre bookings on 021 788 6999. Historically.149 ‘You can while away an afternoon here.’ the past. situated above the old red-bricked Edwardian railway station. check out Fogey’s Railway House Restaurant (Main Road). it became known as Millionaire’s Mile.
at low prices.’ .co. that the owners of the farm were obliged by law to provide. A fire all but destroyed the house in 1925. who owned it by then. key 73) on 021 794 5128 and www. Established in 1685 by Governor Simon van der Stel. Hendrik Cloete. The original buildings were reworked between 1789 and 1792 by the then owner. a set number of bottles to them every year. Jonkershuis Restaurant offers food with a Cape Malay influence and there is also a deli section where you can enjoy fine coffee.za ‘When Napoleon was incarcerated on St Helena Island. the wine on his table came from Constantia. He got in the best: French architect Louis Thibault and sculptor Anton Anreith worked their magic on the new cellars. it has long been one of the foremost producers of wine. the wine on his table came from Constantia. for personal use and as gifts for visiting dignitaries. you can either sit at a table or. this Cape Dutch treasure welcomes visitors who want to taste and purchase wine. outside on a picnic blanket under the giant oaks. When Napoleon was incarcerated on St Helena Island. Detail: Groot Constantia (back map. see the art in the Rossouw Modern Gallery and enjoy a good meal in one of the two restaurants.150 GROOT C ONSTANTIA WINE FARM KEY 73 Groot Constantia If you don’t have time for a more extensive cruise through the winelands around Stellenbosch and Paarl. Groot Constantia is the oldest of South Africa’s wine farms. a few hours spent at Groot Constantia is a good quick-fix alternative. but the state. Today. both Dutch and British colonial administrations were so fond of it. In fact.grootconstantia. had it faithfully restored to its former glory. if you want to enjoy the beautiful surrounds. At Simon’s Restaurant.
Once steam has been piped into the room and has moistened the mud. Detail: Arabella Spa (Cape Town) on 021 701 1202. the mud is removed for a gentle exfoliation and rejuvenation of the skin. This is a room where you (and your partner if you choose) rub yourself with mud. Warmwaterberg Spa on 028 572 1609. For a longer trip out of town. The Sanctuary Spa at the Twelve Apostles Hotel is set into the slope of the mountain in an underground grotto. disappear for a weekend to the humble Warmwaterberg Spa in the Klein Karoo. deep tissue. Sanctuary at Twelve Apostles on 021 437 9000. and some of these are regarded as the best around. The Spa Steenberg on 021 713 2222. Mangwanani on 0860 55 00 55.) A special feature of this calm. key 74) has an infinity pool and a 24-hour gym. Swedish. Situated on the 19th floor of the Westin Grand Cape Town Arabella Quays is the Arabella Spa. They also offer grapeseed and rooibos extract treatments as well as a Pinotage bath. KEY 74 Above: The Arabella Spa (front map. The Constantia valley is a ‘wellness’ haven and has several spas amongst which Constantia Uitsig. . It also has the only Rasul Chamber in town. pop in to the Long Street Turkish Baths (see key 21) or visit the very professional Cape Medi-Spa (99 Kloof Street). Arabella Spa (Kleinmond) on 028 284 0000. Mangwanani Private African Day Spa offers a uniquely African experience. (The African hot stone massage is a regional speciality and is available at several local spas. Constantia Uitsig on 021 794 6500. foot. relaxing environment is the view over the harbour and Signal Hill. There are hot and cold plunge pools.S PA S R E L A X 151 Spas Most of the top hotels in the city have in-house spas. Cape Medi-Spa on 021 422 5140. For something cheaper. Indian head. The Stillness Manor and Spa on 021 713 8800. and African hot stone massages. Massage techniques available include shiatsu. It is situated among the vineyards on Zevenwacht wine farm near Kuils River. the Spa Steenberg and the Stillness Manor and Spa are highly recommended. a sauna and hydrotherapy bath.
152 YOGA & GYM GETTIN G EXERCISE KEY 75 Exercising in the city Getting exercise in Cape Town is a pleasure. Yoga Zone on 021 421 8136. power hatha sessions and Iyengar yoga. Gardens Virgin Active on 021 462 6239.za. Cape Town Virgin Active on 021 421 5857. spinning. They offer squash.co. you don’t have to fight! Above: Zenzero (front map. water aerobics. kata boxing. for some muaythai training at their Dragon Power gym (cnr De Villiers and Stirling streets) No. which is simply known as ‘The Point’ (Bill Peters Drive). Also in the inner city is Yoga Zone (58 Strand Street. yoga. one in the city centre (21 Lower Long Street) and another in Green Point. pilates.za . power yoga and ashtanga yoga.co. not to mention a steep hike up Platteklip Gorge to conquer Table Mountain. They have Pilates sessions and offer various yoga styles such as hatha yoga. Detail: Zenzero on 083 462 8626 and www. join local celebs.zenzero. Virgin Active is a big chain of gyms and they have a couple of branches in the city. a pool and a sauna. A simple walk or jog along the Sea Point Promenade (key 5) is one of the best ways to get rid of stiff limbs after a long flight or bus trip. Zenzero (127 Bree Steet) is conveniently located for anyone staying in the city bowl.dragonpower. key 75) is based in a studio with high ceilings which contribute to the good energy of the location. There are special pregnancy classes and exclusive lymphasising classes which will help you to detoxify your body by jumping on a trampoline. For a workout with a difference. There is a Gardens branch at Wembley Square (McKenzie Road). free weights. the Chong brothers. Picbel Parkade) which offers bikram yoga. Dragon Power on 021 461 8088 and www. The Point Virgin Active on 021 434 0750. Yoga has become increasingly popular in the city amongst those in search of a lowimpact workout. For those who need their fix in a gym – pounding the treadmill or doing weight reps – there are several choices.
If you want to buy a half-ton stone hippo. visit the outdoor sculpture park where the M65 joins the M66 (Red Hill Road) en route to Cape Point via Scarborough. the sellers are often already set up where they know the tourists will visit. Greenmarket Square (key 34) has a high concentration of both modern and traditional artwork. the African Women’s Trading Market (112 Long Street) and the Pan African Market (76 Long Street) also hold plenty of items. You hardly have to go looking for traditional crafts. Carefully selected traders and artisans from more than a dozen different African countries have occupied this beautiful four-storey building since 1997.S H O P F O R A F R I CA N A RT 153 African art Artisans from all over Africa call Cape Town home.’ They were twins who died of enteric fever after returning to Germany – their father then donated their home to be converted into a YWCA. KEY 76 Above: At the Pan African Market (front map. such as scenic picnic spots along the coastal drives. have a massive array of traditional and modern-day crafts. In the city centre. Two convenient shopping areas. The Pan African Market is an ideal shopping experience. you will find a relaxed. . non-pushy atmosphere where you can really engage with the artists and learn more about the works that you buy. There is also a hairdresser. key 76). Up on the third-storey balcony. Detail: Pan African Market on 021 426 4478. The latter is especially famous for its selection of masks. you will find plenty of items to choose from. which it remained for most of the previous century. the Blue and the Red sheds. holistic healer and tailor on the premises. Founded 1886. In nearby Long Street. rebuilt 1903. At the Pan African Market. situated at the V&A Waterfront. you’ll see an inscription that reads: ‘In memory of Minnie & Maria Bam.
It’s only really viable if you’re staying close to one of their bus stops. so you’ll have no problem getting from the one end to the other. The ubiquitous Golden Arrow buses run along more rigid routes and schedules. A taxi with room to spare will slow down and shout out its destination (‘Sea Point!’) to see if you express any interest in the offer. Otherwise. carting 200 000 people to work and back every day. As they don’t run between set bus stops. find a seat as soon as possible and then pass the amount to the guardjie (the door guard). just get into the taxi if it’s heading in the right direction. key 77). They are not often used by tourists. . you can sometimes ask them to veer off their route to drop you closer to your destination. The title refers to what the guardjie screams out of the window at potential passengers to tell them of the taxi’s destination and route. You pay the fare as you get onto the bus. you just need to be walking. The biggest taxi rank in the city is situated on top of the Cape Town train station (front map. Above: Main Road in Sea Point is a major minibus taxi route. The minibus taxi is even honoured in local music. with Afro-pop favourites Freshlyground having a song called ‘Mowbray Kaap’ on their first album. minibus taxis carry millions of people to and from work every day. it will be your most economic option.154 GETTING AROUND IN A MINIBUS TA X I KEY 77 Take the minibus taxi All over South Africa. To hail a minibus taxi you just have to look vaguely like you need a ride – in other words. Ask how much the ride will be as you get in. Have small change ready as handing over a big note to pay a fare of a few rands might cause delays if you want change. but if you are going to stay for a while and travel a regular route frequently. tell them where you’d like to go and the driver will drop you off at the closest point that it suits him or her.
an old Moravian mission station. Clanwilliam Dam on 027 482 8012. These old hatcheries and ponds have been repaired in recent years to turn Jonkershoek into a very accessible fly-fishing venue.za. so you can organise permits and book a beat directly with them. The society manages a lot of the streams and still waters on behalf of Cape Nature. Wynberg) on 021 762 8007. Cape Piscatorial Society on 021 424 7725 and at www. you can always just sign up for a bit of winetasting to save the weekend. large-mouth bass and kurpers. Detail: Eikendal Vineyards fly-fishing on 021 855 2646. Elandspad River in the Dutoitskloof Mountains and the Molenaars River (next to the N1 once through the Huguenot Tunnel). KEY 78 Above: The two dams at Eikendal Vineyards (back map. Some of the first trout to be released into South African waters were bred in 1893 at Jonkershoek near Stellenbosch. Theewaterskloof Dam on 028 840 2091. Freshwater fishing licenses can be purchased at any Post Office branch.and small-mouth black bass fishing at Theewaterskloof Dam and Clanwilliam Dam. be sure to detour up the Pakhuis Pass which traverses the Cederberg mountains here. Popular rivers include Witte River near Bain’s Kloof (key 102).piscator. There is good large. which hosts the Bass Classic competition in October. key 78) are stocked with rainbow trout. . The farm is beautifully situated and easy to get to. If you drive up to Clanwilliam.F I S H I N G F R E S H WAT E R 155 Freshwater fishing One of the most accessible places to fly-fish is Eikendal Vineyards outside Stellenbosch. Holsloot upstream from Rawsonville. Upstream Flyfishing shop (45 Lester Road. There is a fully stocked fly-fishing shop on the premises and they offer beginner courses for those who fear the way of the fly. Jonkershoek on 021 886 1011. The Cape Piscatorial Society should be your first stop if you want to go fly-fishing in the beautiful mountain streams of the Cape. On the other side of the pass.co. hook a right to Wuppertal. so you don’t have to rough it at all. If you’re having no luck with the fishing.
German deli and safe parking. the prominent high-rise on Mill Street. Several other coffee shops in the city have a similar arrangement. Looking out over the Green Point lighthouse in Mouille Point. Above: Café Neo (front map.156 INTERNET CAFÉS EMAIL HOME KEY 79 Internet cafés Though not nearly as prevalent as they are in most of the world’s big cities. but if you’re busy exploring on foot. Café Erte is open from 10 am to 4 am daily. coffee and beer. It is open from 9 am to 11 pm on weekdays and until 10 pm on weekends. restaurants. outdoor gear shop. Café Erte in Sea Point (256a Main Road) is a cybercafé where you can also go clubbing. banks. but enquire before you sit down. It’s open from 7 am to 7 pm all week. And you can buy cocktails and get something to eat while you’re at it. but you can surf free as long as you order something and have your own laptop. with the latest electronica. health shop. They are open from 6 am to 5 pm during the week and 9 am to 1 pm on Saturdays. Gardens Online is in the Gardens Centre.Café is in the same building as the Cape Town Tourism Office (cnr Burg & Castle streets) and serves food. The Info. there are internet cafés all over Cape Town. Most hotels. There are also printing. backpackers and B & Bs have facilities for their guests. key 79) is a Greek-themed eatery and coffee shop. The Centre is a good one-stop in which to do all your shopping – it has a supermarket. Geek (39 Kloof Street) is neat and comfy and just down the road from Vida e Caffé. scanning and CD-burning facilities. hairdresser. . pharmacy. travel agent. trance and whatnot pumping while you change your Facebook profile picture. clothing stores. It’s open every day of the year from 9 am to 11 pm. biltong kiosk. Café Neo (129 Beach Road) is an excellent place to knuckle down with your laptop for a morning of leisurely web surfing. there are several good places to check for email from your mom.
key 80). turn left. . pump the latest dance. even big names like DJ Fresh.za for some of his fine threads. It gets especially busy at weekends. So what is Mzoli’s? It’s a place where you can eat meat and drink beer. follow the M10 until you reach Klipfontein Road. on their home turf. making parking a nightmare and the division between crowd. DJs. Mzoli’s does not sell liquor. See www. Mzoli Ngcawuzele (seen above greeting some patrons) dreamt of big things. shaking hands with people at all the tables. Who’s Darkie? It’s actually the name of a hip clothing label. posing for photographs (there are official photographers on site) and so forth – it’s like meeting the pope of meat! KEY 80 How to get there: Head out of the city on the N2 towards the airport. Order a plastic tray full of meat for your friends and enjoy it in the outside area (see following pages) where there are a limited number of tables and chairs. go into the butchery. kwaito and house music when the party hits its stride. but the clientele comes from all over – tourists and locals alike stream here. take the M10 offramp (Guguletu). Mzoli’s is based in the township of Guguletu. Once at Mzoli’s. started by Themba Mngomezulu.TOW N S H I P V I B E M Z O L I ’ S 157 Hang out at Mzoli’s In 2003.co. when it can get uncomfortably full as thousands converge on the spot. restaurant and residential area becomes blurred pretty quickly. but he probably had no idea just how popular his business would become. including local celebrities like clothing designer Darkie. Cars throng around the place. peaking on Sundays. drive through the traffic lights and Mzoli’s will be on your left past the shopping centre. where tourists and white Capetonians who might never have set foot in Guguletu before can hang out with people with whom they might otherwise never socialise. Mzoli himself is often on the premises.darkieclothing. pay and then wait for the meat to be braaied in the back. but you can buy liquor from container stores nearby. pick your boerewors or lamb chops. Turn into street NY11 and park where you can (back map.
0158 KEY 81 Mzoli’s Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
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the world is just a little zippier.Anthony’s Golden Cup (front map. as all coffee addicts know.2) in Kalk Bay. Kenya) plantations. They don’t mess about – all their drinks are double shots.160 C OFFE E SHOPS THE BEST IN THE CIT Y KEY 81 The best coffee shops A good coffee at the right time can make or break a day. whose baristas are multiple national champs.1). Vida e Caffé. Try the specialities: the Golden Cup House Blend or Out of Africa – they’re the business! Another legendary place is Origin Coffee Roasting in De Waterkant (28 Hudson Street). If you want to purchase ground coffee to use at home. Obrigado. Our favourite haunt is Anthony’s Golden Cup (59 Loop Street). in business for almost 50 years. . With caffeine in your bloodstream. this is where to come. Anthony Swartz’s coffee is never more than three days old and comes from South American (Colombia. The city’s most happening coffee chain. key 81. The prominent city ones are in Sea Point Main Road. Opposite: Another happy sip about to be taken at Olympia Café (back map. It can fix a late night’s partying the morning after or spark up flagging conversation with your fellow travellers at the end of a long day. espressos and filter coffee available. with specially blended mixes for plungers. key 81. so you’ll probably leave with X-ray vision. Kloof Street and the V&A Waterfront. Lazari (cnr Upper Maynard and Vredehoek avenues) has large windows which look out onto a corner of the residential neighbourhood of Vredehoek. Guatemala) and African (Cameroon. has 17 outlets around the city and its suburbs. There is often relaxed live music in the Courtyard Café. which usually has good articles about whatever’s blipping loudly on the local cultural radar. Pick up a copy of their in-house magazine. It’s a bit out of the Above and inset: Just tell Anthony Swartz what kind of taste you’re after and he’ll make you the perfect cup .
dining and jolling options. great confectionary and baked goods – try the muffins. A cosy. Frangipani’s is in Woodstock (76 Roodebloem). Search out Derry Street (Vredehoek).’ way and great if you don’t feel like hassling for parking in one of the busier city streets. it’s a converted house with cool pop arty décor.za. Another good daytime perch is Deer Park Café (2 Deer Park Drive). There’s also a deli section that you might want to investigate if you’re heading out for a picnic afterwards.caffe.za. Nothing like an American diner.originroasting. . It offers a large selection of chai teas. Olympia Café (134 Main Road) in Kalk Bay serves fantastic cappuccinos and the legendary bakery ensures fresh ciabatta.161 ‘All their drinks are double shots – so you’ll probably leave with X-ray vision. snuggle-with-your-lover place.co. and in this case.za More cool areas: We have criminally neglected some cool neighbourhoods and streets in this guide.co. Origin Coffee Roasting on 021 421 1000 and www. the best place to increase your inner peace is the Sophea Gallery & Tibetan Teahouse in Simon’s Town (2 Harrington Road). Anthony’s Golden Cup on 021 426 1268 and www. decent meals and lots of parking in the square which it overlooks.co. Detail: Vida e Caffé branches on www. For a late night cuppa. which is safely fenced in so that the children don’t run out into the traffic. candlelit tables. further up in the same neighbourhood.goldencup. Roodebloem Road (Woodstock) and Klipfontein Road (Mowbray) for alternative coffee. Tea is often other people’s coffee. Families converge here en masse over weekends so that the kids can hit the adjacent playground. search out the tiny Roxy’s Diner in Dunkley Square (follow the signs to the square off Hatfield Street). Miss K in Green Point (65 Main Road) does good breakfasts and cupcakes of all shapes and sizes to complement your cup – and we can’t put the word ‘cake’ in a sentence without telling you that Charly’s Bakery (20 Roeland Street) makes the tastiest and most beautiful ones into which we have ever sunk our teeth. It’s a breakfast and lunch spot as it’s not open in the evenings. croissants and sweet delights every morning.
so you’re bound to get an open table. surrounded by pool tables. In practice. Stones pool-bar. that seems to mean that it lacks the hip throngs of Long Street. Follow a very steep staircase. offering good food. the booze is cheap and there’s a balcony to relax on if the pool game becomes too heated. The part of Observatory between Main Road and the mountain is mostly taken up by Groote Schuur Hospital. Photos: Musicians Gil Starkim and Ze Maria (above) settle down for a meal before their gig at Café Ganesh. up to a high-ceilinged hall with a circular bar counter in the centre. The décor consists of framed liquor advertisements. has a neon sign that’s hard to miss. Stones pool-bar (opposite page) has 19 tables. with many people from other African countries calling it home. with its narrow streets. supports an interesting nightlife along Lower Main Road and has a fair number of homeless people who might come knock on your door when it’s cold. Lower Main Road runs at an angle from Albert Road until it joins Main Road near St Peter’s Square. drink and entertainment. which is part of a franchise that you’ll see countrywide.162 OBSERVATORY BOHEMIAN SUBURB KEY 82 Observatory Observatory. Obz Café (inset) is another Observatory (back map. a newsagent. Known simply as ‘Obs’. pharmacy and post office. . the UCT Medical School and St Peter’s Square. a shopping centre with a large Pick n Pay. although new places have been opening further down as the area slowly wakens to its potential. the area has quite a multinational make-up. has a reputation for being a bohemian suburb. key 82) staple. which you’ll need to keep in mind when you leave for home a few drinks stronger. Most of the eating and drinking establishments are concentrated between the couple of blocks between Station Road and Bowden Road. small Victorian houses and large student population due to its proximity to the University of Cape Town.
Detail: The Obs Festival is a weekend-long street festival early in December during which the hub of Lower Main Road is closed to traffic. Try the umnqusho stew of samp. We also recommend the falafel as a vegetarian option and the crayfish samoosas. which serves good Korean. Crossing the railway via Station Road towards Liesbeek Parkway.’ Across the road is Panchos. beans and mutton. . For dessert: lemon meringue tart. Further up Lower Main is Sushi Zone. with Obz Café next to it. you will see a turnoff to the South African Astronomical Observatory. If you continue over the traffic lights at Liesbeek Parkway. plays (Wednesdays to Saturdays) and stand-up comedy. Every pub spills out into the street with beer gardens. of which there are precious few in Cape Town. the Hartleyvale sports fields (you will see the lights from afar) and the Observatory municipal pool lie to your right. Obz Café serves good meals throughout the day and at night part of it is converted into a theatre that hosts live music (Tuesdays and Sundays). It serves great African food without making a touristy fuss about it. Café Ganesh is in Trill Road just off Lower Main Road and is one of the hood’s most legendary establishments. Obz Books is open till late and perfect for a scrounge-around if you’ve run out of holiday reading. Chinese and Japanese food. The décor is spoton modern-day South Africana. Take advantage of the ‘eat all you can’ special on a Saturday night. a decent Mexican restaurant. It was constructed by the British in 1821 in a time before electricity and hence a lot less light pollution! The Noon Gun (see key 20) is set off with an electronic time signal from here. stall holders come to sell their food and wares and at one end there’s a stage where local bands perform. which gives the suburb its name. just because you don’t get them anywhere else.163 ‘Observatory has a reputation for being a bohemian suburb.
Spier is one of the nicest ones in which to be stuck! Photos: The moyo restaurant at Spier (back map. contemporary African art to Spier and the amphitheatre plays host to wonderful outdoor concerts. Mombasa-style chicken. .za. There is also a raptor rehabilitation centre. moyo on 021 809 1133. Eagle Encounters. The menu is vast: tabouleh salad from North Africa. key 83) offers activities such as traditional face painting (below). set under an enormous 300-year old oak tree (you can even sit in the tree) and covered with Bedouin-style tents. Jonkershuis Restaurant on 021 809 1159. One of the best things about Spier is how it has taken the lead in creating a new culture of responsible. You can take short walks and horse rides along the Eerste River which runs through the property. Probably the most popular restaurant at Spier is moyo. Tunisian vegetable stew. The man behind the rise of Spier was Dick Enthoven. sustainable wine farming. As tourist traps go.co. who bought the farm in 1993 and turned it into the premier destination it has since become.spier. poetry gatherings and plays – a treat in summer if the weather plays along. The Africa Centre has brought excellent. gemsbok and ostrich fillet. Cheetah Outreach has a facility on the Spier premises where you can see these beautiful creatures up close and help to protect their status in the wild at the same time.164 SPIER WINE & DINE KEY 83 Spier Spier is a living example of ‘if you build it. where injured birds are nursed back to health. The workers’ children have a modern school on site and all development has been done with the environment in mind. Detail: General information on 021 809 1100 and www. they will come’. and springbok shank potjie from South Africa.
‘You’ll be having fun like your surname’s Hilton and your dog wears diamonds. Daddy Cool Bar at the Grand Daddy Hotel on 021 424 7247. situated at the Cape Grace Hotel in the V&A Waterfront. That way. Ireland. And then there are the bars where the opposite is true. so the best thing is to linger and wait for when the DJs come on. . These sessions take place at 6 pm. For those new to the drink. pair of designer pants and patent leather shoes to match. if you were to walk in wearing a smart shirt. If you’re going to return to Cape Town every few months. There is so much hipness here you won’t know what to do with it.W H I S K Y BA R R E L A X I N ST Y L E 165 Whisky bars Bar crowds are often strictly divided. is where you would like to spend the evening if you know the difference between a whiskey and a whisky.’ Detail: Bascule Whisky Bar and Wine Cellar at Cape Grace Hotel on 021 410 7100. the barman will definitely remember which one’s your ‘usual’! The Daddy Cool Bar at the Grand Daddy Hotel (38 Long Street) is a modern set up in a Georgian building. dirty-T-shirt-and-torn-denim-wearing student would give you a second glance and wonder if you’re in the right place. there are introductory tastings while the pros can join the in-house whisky sommelier. Then you’ll be having fun like your surname’s Hilton and your dog wears diamonds. on a connoisseur’s journey. The Bascule Whisky Bar and Wine Cellar. There are the bars where. which will keep your favourite bottles locked up in a private cabinet. the USA and Canada. The big parties usually happen on Fridays and Saturdays. key 84). KEY 84 Above: The Bascule Whisky Bar and Wine Cellar (front map. On offer here are 460 whiskies originating from premier producing countries such as Scotland. you might as well join their Whisky Club. a beer-drinking. Soma Dennis.
The crowd is a mixture of young people who work in the city and live in the surrounding neighbourhoods. If the right barman makes it. which is the oldest pub in town and has been open for raucousness since 1808. students. The balcony tables are the best perches if you want to hold down a conversation as it gets noisy inside – and that loud rapper is sometimes one of the barmen! During sporting tournaments. Da Gama Portuguese Tavern (3 Alfred Street) and the Perseverance Tavern (83 Buitenkant Street). The Fireman’s Arms (cnr Buitengracht and Mechau streets). Another very relaxed bar with a good vibe (in other words. the place opens up onto several levels. Once you’ve wound your way up the dark wooden staircase. weary travellers just back from an overland trip up Africa. the big screens here make it a lively place to watch the game. Old bars with real character are the Kimberley Hotel (cnr of Roeland and Buitenkant streets). . situated at a busy intersection at the bottom of Kloof Nek Road. musicians and other interesting folk.166 NIGHT LIFE BARS AND PUBS KEY 85 Bars for everyone One of the most accessible everyday bars in town is Rafiki’s. There are some pool tables and if you’re nice to the barman he might honour your music request if it’s stored on the computer. Between 11 am and 3 pm they have a good menu with mussel and prawn specials so big that you won’t be able to finish. situated above Joburg Bar in Long Street. It has an outside area and several rooms with different bars and tunes on two floors. key 85). Photos: The Wedding DJs (above) are unashamed 80s specialists and have regular parties at LB’s (front map. their frozen margaritas are excellent. where no one cares what you’re wearing) is The Shack. situated next to the live music venue Mercury Live (43 De Villiers Street).
De Waterkant). The bar is not called The Martini for nothing – it has 152 martinis from which to choose! Never to be outdone. head straight for Café Mojito (265 Long Street) and the Ché Bar (227 Long Street) where you shouldn’t be shy to ask for the chocolate mint martini. Ignite (Promenade. the Wakame Sapphire and a Frozen Strawberry Margarita. The Radisson SAS Hotel Waterfront. and Wakame (cnr Beach Road and Surrey Place) in Mouille Point. drive out to Cellars-Hohenhort in Constantia (93 Brommersvlei Road) for their champagne cocktails. At Camps Bay. but the next time it’s another barman making your drink and suddenly the recipe seems to have been lost. If you’re looking for a cocktail with a difference. Victoria Road) makes a great watermelon martini and Beluga in Green Point (Prestwich Street) has sushi specials and good cocktails to boot. Their menu includes a special Mouille Point Iced Tea. . Close competition can be found at Andiamo (Cape Quarter. situated at a private marina in Granger Bay just next to the V&A Waterfront. This is thanks both to the great location and the excellent cocktail menu at Tobago’s Bar & Terrace – you won’t easily find a better Cosmopolitan. Some nights you get a good one. key 86) has a great view. Buena Vista Social Café in Green Point (81 Main Road) makes good margaritas and for a good mojito. but one is often left disappointed. has been pulling the cocktail crowd for years now.C O C K TA I L BA R S H A N G I N G O U T 167 Cocktail bars Many places offer cocktails in Cape Town. The Twelve Apostles Hotel serves a Fynbos Martini … KEY 86 Above: Wakame (front map. Another place that makes a surprising chocolate martini is the Foresters Arms. generally known just as ‘Forries’ (52 Newlands Avenue). looking west over Mouille Point.
Pulling up the nets later is where the real fun – and exercise – begins. Detail: Cape Sea Safaris on www. key 87).za. so it is a full day trip.com. The yellowfin tuna caught here can weigh up to 80 kg. Two Oceans Sport Fishing on 082 460 8280 at www.com .capeseasafaris.168 FISHING THE SEA KEY 87 Sea fishing The coastline and adjoining oceans around Cape Town offer something for every saltwater fishing enthusiast. You will head out from Hout Bay harbour with a registered skipper and experienced crayfishermen or crayfisherwomen will show you how it works: simply ‘bait’ a net with something like pilchard heads. kabeljou. twooceanssportfishing. sign up for crayfishing. To get to these tuna-rich waters. then Cape Sea Safaris can help you out. which means there might be crayfish for lunch on board. boats have to travel for about three hours. Quotas and size restrictions are strictly observed. Hooked on Africa will combine experiences for you. If you want to head straight for the big guys in the deep sea such as longfin and yellowfin tuna. white steenbras. put a weight in and throw the net overboard. dorado. offering crayfishing and other fishing on the same day. shark (on a catch and release basis) or even marlin. Species you can look out for include galjoen.co.hookedonafrica. Cape Sea Safaris also offers inshore fishing and spear fishing. skate and elf. Above: Crayfish trips with Cape Sea Safaris depart from Hout Bay harbour (back map. The varied coastline also offers many shore-based fishing opportunities. Offshore fly-fishing is also offered. while the longfin are generally around 20 kg. Hooked on Africa on 021 790 5332 and www. but if you’re looking for something the whole family can easily participate in. Cape snoek. David Christie from Two Oceans Sport Fishing is the pro when it comes to this – his record is a 76-kg yellowfin tuna caught on fly tackle! Christie is a qualified marine biologist and his trips are also geared towards viewing pelagic birds.
KO M M E T J I E S E A S I D E TOW N 169 Kommetjie Kommetjie is a small coastal town situated on the western side of the peninsula. Detail: Cape Fisher Tours on 083 403 9881. During crayfish season. but sheltered natural harbour in front of the slipway. During the Stone Age. Be on the lookout for black oystercatchers. various waders and four types of cormorant – the crowned. At 33 metres. with only a handful of shops and restaurants. terns. The Kom. it is the tallest cast-iron lighthouse in the country. key 88) as seen from the sea. you might be invited to join one of them. Often skippers have extra permits and are short of a few hands. white-breasted and bank cormorant. so if you hang around and speak to the right people. KEY 88 Above: The small town of Kommetjie (back map. . Ocean View is a fishing community just outside Kommetjie. Join them on a walking tour and then enjoy some of Cheryl’s traditional recipes at their home restaurant. The stretch of rocky shoreline between the slipway and the Slangkop lighthouse is regarded as one of the best places for land-based seabird viewing. The slender white Slangkop lighthouse (at the end of Lighthouse Road) has been a landmark in the town since it became operational in 1919. locals set out from the slipway in all manner of craft to try their luck with crayfish traps out at sea. the Kom was made into a giant fish trap by the inhabitants of this stretch of coastline. Cape. It is mostly a quiet residential town. which means ‘bowl’ and hence gives the town its name Kommetjie (little bowl). It was originally part of a farm called Imhoff ’s Gift (see key 95) and was proclaimed a town in 1903. Cheryl and Melshaw Wyngaard (Cape Fisher Tours) offer tourists the unique opportunity to meet people who make a living from the ocean. is the small. Slangkop lighthouse on 021 783 1717. with the Slangkop Lighthouse prominent.
eyeliner and colourful legs. Above: In Velddrif (back map. BirdWatch Cape are agents who can set up your trip. Paarl.sabirding. If you know what to look for. Albatrosses are more commonly seen during winter. Around the fountain in Adderley Street. head out onto the ocean in search of pelagic birds. and the Hottentots Holland mountains for endemics like Victorin’s warbler and Cape siskin. with its bright orange beak. Cape Town is filled with birds.birdwatch. The African penguin colony at Boulders (key 59) offers unrivalled land-based viewing of the bird. Hartlaub’s gulls and feral pigeons flock in large numbers. Their pelagic birding trips usually depart on Saturdays from Simon’s Town harbour. BirdWatch Cape also organise full-day trips as far as the West Coast National Park. There are half-day trips to the Cape Flats wetlands such as Rondevlei.za is an excellent resource for keen birdwatchers. shy and yellow-nosed). you stand a very good chance of encountering some of the endemic species – such as the Cape sugarbird and the orange-breasted sunbird – if you venture into the mountains. on patrol between the Table and Lion’s Head. petrel (giant and white-chinned). Detail: BirdWatch Cape on 072 635 1501 and www. subantarctic skua and sooty shearwater. where you might see the bar-throated apalis in the mountain fynbos.170 BIRDING NATURE KEY 89 Birding Like all South African cities. The Company Gardens have ducks and De Waal Park hosts hadedas. Even though fynbos does not support a large variety of birds. www. For the serious birdwatcher.za.co. key 89) you might even encounter great white pelicans right in the road. About 50 kilometres offshore lies the continental shelf and here you can see birds such as albatross (black-browed. . A shorebird highlight is the African black oystercatcher.co. For a real birding spectacle. you can sometimes even see the resident pair of Verreaux’s eagles (black eagles) gliding very high above the city bowl.
Baboon Matters walks with just two of these troops. Whenever they are around and you are in your car. key 90) and leads guided tours to two of the peninsula’s resident baboon troops. or simply the contents of a handbag. Baboon Matters is part of a management plan to try to limit clashes between humans and baboons. the Da Gama and Kommetjie troops. The Tokai troop is led by a baboon named John Travolta.’ . the Chacma baboon troops that live on the Cape peninsula have in recent decades been cut off from the rest of the continent. keep the windows closed. If you want to see these animals at close quarters in a responsible way.BA B O O N WA L K S NAT U R E 171 Walk with baboons Though they’re not as glamorous as chimpanzees or gorillas. Suffice to say that you should never feed the baboons. KEY 90 Above: Baboon Matters is based in Glencairn (back map. They share their habitat with humans and over the years they have become savvy to the delights held by a suburban dustbin. Four of the eight main troops on the peninsula are watched daily by Baboon Monitors so that citizens can be warned when the troops are approaching residential areas. Detail: 021 782 2015 and www. They can be dangerous and should not be approached. Established in part to gather funds for the protection of the peninsula’s last troops and to educate people about baboons. or a well-stocked family kitchen. While plentiful across large parts of Africa. thanks to large-scale development and human settlement on the Cape Flats. nothing beats observing a troop of baboons in their natural environment.baboonmatters. a walk with Baboon Matters is a must.za ‘Nothing beats observing a troop of baboons in their natural environment. led by the alpha males Harry and Peter respectively.org. such as is common in the Cape Point Nature Reserve.
Photos: Gordon’s Bay (back map. Kogel Bay (next double spread) is a popular surfing spot and also has a camping area. cycle races. one could say (the towns are also popular amongst retirees). including chimpanzees. Despite this. as it’s often called. SOMERSET WEST & ST R A N D DAY T R I P KEY 91 Gordon’s Bay. between Somerset West and Gordon’s Bay (turn left off the N2.172 GORDON’S BAY. don’t forget that there are a few worthy destinations lying at the foot of the pass. Lunch at the Oak Tree Restaurant and snoop around in the art gallery. car dealerships and one annoying traffic light after the other. there is a sign). Somerset West & Strand If you’re heading out on the N2. ‘the Strand’) and Somerset West are a pretty trio of towns which don’t get the dues they deserve. The estate is also a popular venue for events such as the Cape Town Flower & Garden Show. you can either turn left to Somerset West or right to Strand. building supplies. key 92). key 91) has gentle bathing conditions and is just a 40 minute drive from Cape Town. . You can easily turn a visit to Lourensford into a day trip. past the airport and aiming for the mountains where Sir Lowry’s Pass will take you to the Overberg and beyond. spread around the base of the Helderberg mountain. Strand (or. It houses 23 different species. the stunning coastal road to Rooiels. When you reach the R44 off-ramp off the N2. Somerset West is a beautiful residential town which lies inland. Following Lourensford Road through Somerset West will bring you to the beautiful Lourensford Estate. the pace of life is slower out here. It can be reached via Clarence Drive (back map. Gordon’s Bay. There is a good primate park. This is in part because the N2 runs through their worst parts – it’s all shopping centres. Monkey Town. polo and regular art evenings. in permanent recline. It is privately owned and the more than 200 animals are looked after very well. lemurs and Hamadryas baboons. cheese shop or coffee shop.
’ Strand was supposed to be a suburb of Somerset West (its original name was Somerset Strand).co.za. an old house filled with so many books that you can hardly see the walls! A good place to eat is Harbour Lights. Detail: Lourensford Estate on 021 847 2200 and www. . Gordon’s Bay has a beautiful little harbour and the pride and joy of the area is Bikini Beach.monkeys. because the navy training college situated here used to be named after the general. despite his English name. Today it is a popular holiday town. but it proved such a dynamic place that it became its own municipality by 1896. under the steep slopes of the Hottentots Holland range. There is also a tidal pool and a heated. If you have time. Harbour Lights on 021 856 1830. worked for the Dutch East India Company. Gordon’s Bay info on www.com. Somerset West and Strand information on www. What appears to be an abbreviation of the town’s name can be seen on one of the slopes.gordonsbaytourism.173 ‘The pace of life is slower out here. one could say. Gordon’s Bay lies flush in the corner of False Bay.com. thanks to the safe swimming beach at Melkbaai. but it originally stood for General Botha. The town itself was named after Captain Robert Gordon who. situated in the Old Harbour and there are a couple of places where you can buy an ice-cream cone. in permanent recline. indoor Olympic-sized swimming pool which is often used for big school meets and provincial competitions. Make sure you go into the Bikini Beach Bookshop. meaning it’s a very safe beach at which to swim – it’s clean and run on good environmental principles.com.somersetwest.lourensford. Monkey Town on 021 858 1060 and www. drive along Clarence Drive to Rooiels (key 92). This beach has been awarded Blue Flag status.
0174 KEY 93 Rooiels Drive Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
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one of Cape Town’s water suppliers. more scenic. Rooiels lies at a pretty river mouth. whose vision helped to make it a reality. arguably. From here the road is less scenic because you won’t see the ocean anymore. key 92) has gentle curves. The beach isn’t good for swimming. This not so secret stretch of tar is the R44 between Gordon’s Bay and the small seaside hamlet of Rooiels. The tree is known as the butterspoon or butterknife tree. but turn in at Pringle Bay for a final. There is a little campsite here which traditionally gets flooded by picnickers on New Year’s Day. Just out of sight over the top of the mountains lies the Steenbras Dam. lingering look at the peninsula across the bay before continuing on to Betty’s Bay or Hermanus. Above: Clarence Drive (back map. which lies on the right if you’re heading southwards. has better places at which to stop and is. but also a few sharp ones which have to be negotiated with care. but most just talk of ‘the Rooiels Drive’. Unlike Chapman’s Peak. Eventually a bay – Kogel Bay – will open up before you as the road drops down almost to sea level. but the drive is generally very safe. It is officially called Clarence Drive after Jack Clarence. The wall of mountain on your left is part of the Hottentots Holland range. Once over the bridge. the road will have already climbed to a height of a hundred metres or so above the sea (False Bay). Detail: Rooiels literally means ‘red alder’. Stay over: Kogelbaai Campsite 021 856 1286. this is not a toll road and there are no precarious cliffs looming above you. As you leave Gordon’s Bay. The slopes are steep and once in a while a rock does roll down here.176 ROOIEL S SCENIC DRIVE KEY 92 Scenic drive to Rooiels Chapman’s Peak might be the Cape’s most famous scenic drive. but there’s a drive that is longer (18 km). because these items used to be carved from its wood. you can either turn right into Rooiels or follow the road as it swings inland. but it is a popular surfing spot. .
co. there are plenty of other creatures to enjoy. on your left before you reach Klapmuts. China. a meerkat enclosure and all manner of farm animals such as chickens and goats strutting around like they own the place. To get there.butterflyworld. but on chilly days when they are not flitting about. Malaysia and the Philippines – up to 800 pupae are flown in weekly to keep the greenhouse awash with colour and variety. take the N1 towards Paarl. It gets very hot in the greenhouse. The iguanas also love the sun. and they’re fascinating to observe whether they’re sitting dead still or not (they’re a stinky lot too). The butterflies are more active when it’s sunny. In fact. Once on the R44. from 9 am to 5 pm. those with kids will tell you it’s somewhere they return to often. then Exit 47 to Klapmuts. this is the perfect opportunity to take macro close-ups of butterflies which are often hard to photograph in the wild. The Martin Filmer Spider Room has a wide range of creepies – spiders and scorpions – safely behind the glass of terraria if this happens to be a phobia of yours. 021 875 5628 and www. In the lush garden. it is just 300 metres to the south. there’s also an aviary.za . KEY 93 Detail: Butterfly World (back map. key 93) is open every day except Christmas. so make sure you take a bottle of water in with you. but have gone to only if they live in the area or have kids. But it’s not just kids’ stuff! If you’re an ardent photographer. because young children really are enchanted by the spectacle offered in the 1 000 square metres of greenhouse at Butterfly World. They are not very skittish in the greenhouse as they have no predators here. The sanctuary’s tropical butterflies are from countries like Costa Rica.F O R K I D S B U T T E R F LY WO R L D 177 Butterfly World This is one of those Cape attractions that most locals know exist.
and you will see places where you might want to return later on during your stay. Ideally you would drive down the eastern side of the peninsula on your way there – via Muizenberg. then the second day would be well spent on a trip down to Cape Point. which they then named the Cape of Good Hope. Cape Point is the southernmost section of the Table Mountain National Park and the second-most visited attraction in Cape Town after the V&A Waterfront. . They never saw Cape Point at the time as the storm took them far to the south. They turned north and only saw land again near Mossel Bay. giving you the chance to take in the scenic drive of Chapman’s Peak (see key 53). hundreds of kilometres further east. This drive will give you a great idea of the lay of the land. After minding its own business for millennia. key 94). Dias turned back to Europe and finally saw the great cape. The Cape of Good Hope (inset) is near Cape Point. If your first day was spent on Robben Island or taking the cable car up Table Mountain. when Portuguese explorer Bartholomew Dias and his crew were flung around it during a violent storm. the Cape of Good Hope entered into European seafaring history late in January 1488. Hout Bay and the Atlantic seaboard in time to stop at the Twelve Apostles Hotel for a sundowner. But don’t get caught up in your scenic drive. Fish Hoek and Simon’s Town – and up the western side later in the afternoon upon your return.178 CAPE POINT SCENERY KEY 94 Cape Point A visit to Cape Point is compulsory if your stay in Cape Town is anything longer than one day. for Cape Point is not a quick in-and-out destination. Photos: You can either walk up to the main view point or take a funicular at Cape Point (back map. Because his crew became mutinous.
which is what made its discovery back in 1488 so important. which flows northwards up the west coast of southern Africa. named after a famous Cape ghost ship. The old lighthouse at the viewpoint is scarred with graffiti which actually makes for some interesting reading and gives you an idea of the multitude of tourists who have stood at that very point. the Cape of Good Hope is the promontory that sticks into the ocean to your right as you face Cape Point from the lookout point. Cape Point is where the lighthouse is.za For the record: Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope are almost the same place. You’ll easily hear five different languages being spoken while you’re up there. If you cannot. At the car park at Cape Point.179 ‘You’ll easily hear five different languages being spoken while you’re up there. Game such as baboon. a snack shop and the Two Oceans Restaurant. The lighthouse down below is the most powerful on the South African coastline and can be seen from 63 kilometres away. will carry you up at a slow but steady pace.capepoint. although no swim in False Bay will ever quite be warm. Be sure to keep to the speed limit. Detail: 021 780 9010 and www. but not quite.co. . as animals can appear out of nowhere. the Flying Dutchman funicular. Funicular tickets are quite expensive.’ The first part of a visit to modern-day Cape Point involves a leisurely drive along a narrow tar road through stunning fynbos. including free entry and free funicular rides. During winter holidays. the Atlantic Ocean. bontebok and eland can be seen. or don’t want to. climb the steps up to the viewpoint. starts meeting the last warmish dregs of the Agulhas current from the Indian Ocean. but between here and Cape Agulhas the cold water of the Benguela current. But the view is what you came for. there are often specials for children. so rather tackle the steps if you can. and down below lies that theoretical meetingpoint of East and West. there are gift shops. What ocean are you looking at? Well.
0180 KEY 95 Cape Point Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
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There is a snake and reptile rehabilitation centre where exotic species such as iguanas Photos: Imhoff Farm (back map. Glencairn and Simon’s Town. as Imhoff is one of the closest places to the city where one can feel as if you’re nowhere near it. Imhoff Farm! There will be trouble if you drive past Imhoff Farm with a car full of kids.182 FOR KIDS IMHOFF FARM KEY 95 Imhoff Farm Ah. The farm lies on a piece of land called Imhoff ’s Gift. The land was expropriated in 1967 under the infamous Group Areas Act to facilitate the removal of coloured people from the nearby towns of Noordhoek. The name holds some interesting history: the land was granted to a farmer called Christina Rousseau in 1743 by Commissioner Extraordinaire Baron van Imhoff as reward for her service to the Dutch East India Company. Imhoff ’s Farm is for all. she had been supplying produce to ships at anchor in Simon’s Town. It is one of the best destinations for young children on the peninsula. with its laidback atmosphere and several contained activities in which to participate within its grounds. Imhoff ’s Gift was large: it included the land where the seaside town of Kommetjie and the fishing community of Ocean View stand today. . of a neighbourhood created by apartheid laws. Ocean View is a classic example. Thankfully. From her other farm. Over weekends it gets very busy and most of the visitors will be locals. of which there are many. key 95) is open seven days a week from 9 am to 5 pm. Zwaansweide. especially if they find out later what delights they have missed out on. just before Kommetjie as you approach it from the Fish Hoek side.
horse rides on 082 774 1191.183 ‘At the petting farm you can feed the sheep. camel rides on 021 789 1711. Imhoff Farm can be a destination on its own – you can easily while away a whole day here – but many use it as halfway stop to or from Cape Point. tickle a chicken. for fresh produce see key 39). The arts and crafts on sale vary widely. At the petting farm you can feed the sheep. It is also within easy striking distance of other seaside towns such as Scarborough.za.imhofffarm. Magic Bakes is a great little bakery and Imhoff Cheese sells organically produced cheeses. hug a bunny. but everything is affordable. horse rides to the beach and even camel rides on three gentlemen called Izak.co. If you want to buy a lasting gift for your hosts. Noordhoek and.. The Blue Water Café is a fine place to eat (try their wood-fired pizzas). of course.. tickle a chicken and get up close and personal with the cutest little piglets. Wodens Hold Bookshop specialises in books on mythology and folklore.za and www. They also offer face painting. Fish Hoek. The Farmyard on 021 783 3412.naturefarm. hug a bunny. The Imhoff Farmer’s Market takes place on the first Saturday morning of every month (for other markets see key 40. Two other good places to snoop around for unique gifts are Faith (organic handmade clothing) and Madam Jambon (décor pieces and jewellery). Ligman and Barak. . the nearby surfing capital of Kommetjie. and Body Stress Release will massage the last bit of tension from your shoulders. Little Piece of Africa stocks African sulptures.’ and Gila monsters are kept.co. Precious Cargo has hand-painted T-shirts and wooden signs and Dried & Fired is a ceramic art gallery combined with a dried fruit shop. pop into the nursery and buy an indigenous shrub or tree. Detail: Info on 021 783 4545 and www.
South Africa’s prime ostrich farms are in the Little Karoo around the town of Oudtshoorn.co. wallets and belts.co. you can get a picture taken of yourself on top of an ostrich with Table Mountain in the background. Above: One of the almost 220 ostriches on the West Coast Ostrich Farm (back map. At the height of the ostrich feather boom in the 1800s. key 96). . Detail: West Coast Ostrich Farm on 021 972 1955 and www.za Fact: An ostrich egg is equal to about two dozen normal chicken eggs. but you will be amazed at how strong the eggs are. ostrich feathers were the fourth largest export after gold. A variety of ostriches (black-neck. the Cape Point Ostrich Farm. enabling you to compare the sizes of the different birds. which depicts different aspects of the birds and ostrich farming. diamonds and wool. There is also ostrich on the menu in the restaurant if you have been wondering all along whether they taste like chicken or not. You can see how eggs are painted and how ostrich leather is made into fashionable handbags. Finally. but it’s really safe to do and steps are brought right up to the bird which makes mounting and dismounting easy enough. There are guided tours every half an hour which take you through the compact but very representative visitors’ section. First you will be taken through the very well laid-out display room. But visitors to Cape Town can see these beautiful birds just 30 minutes from the city centre at the West Coast Ostrich Farm. There is another farm on the southern peninsula.ostrichranch. To your friends back home it will look as if you were ‘riding’ an ostrich. Cape Point Ostrich Farm on 021 780 9294 and www. shoes. Then you will get the chance to stand on an ostrich egg – which sounds like courting disaster. white and dwarf ) as well as rheas and emus are present in the camps.za.184 OSTRIC H FARM DAY TRIP KEY 96 Visit an ostrich farm Traditionally.capepointostrichfarm.
which basically means that the stones are put in a large tumbler and are slowly polished smooth by bumping and grinding against one another. is based at the Simon’s Town branch of Scratch Patch (there is another at the V&A Waterfront). you need to purchase a small plastic bag. You can pick up any stones you like! Jewellery. To scratch in the Scratch Patch. The gem ‘factory’. Topstones polishes more than 150 varieties of stone from across the globe – Siberia.za . or a larger container at a higher price. sand and iron filings may be added to aid the process and it can sometimes take weeks before a stone is beautifully smooth. so you are buying straight from the wholesale dealer. covering the floor like a fantasy beach. The gemstones are polished smooth through a process known as tumble-polishing. You have carte blanche on the gemstone dancefloor until your bag is full.’ Detail: Mineral World Scratch Patch on 021 786 2020 and www. covering the floor like a fantasy beach. Alaska. KEY 97 Above: Scratch Patch (back map. with thousands of children coming here every year to forage for their favourite gemstones on this modern-day midden of joy. the Mineral World Scratch Patch is a Cape Town institution. Materials like sawdust. you may even find blue lace agate. Look carefully.co. jasper.F O R K I D S S C R ATC H PATC H 185 Scratch Patch Established in Simon’s Town in 1970. key 97) is a paradise for children. ‘It’s a multicoloured mixed bag of stones. amethyst and rose quartz. Look out for southern African ‘specials’ like tiger’s eye.scratchpatch. Brazil and Madagascar. which ensures very good prices. It’s a multicoloured mixed bag of stones. Topstones. ornaments and carvings made from many of the stones are on sale. which has a beautiful honeygolden shimmer.
who was a teacher of Shafi (Shafee). Protestors often sought refuge from riot police in the church when protests outside had turned violent. Because Shafi was taught here. the mosque is still in use today. but in 1820 it was converted to a double-storey mosque. The first Imam here was Abdullah Kadi Abdus Salaam. 90% of the Bo-Kaap’s Muslims today are Shafi. Established in 1798. Archbishop Desmond Tutu delivered several famous sermons here. Opposite: A view over the city from near the Moravian Church (front map. better known as Tuan Guru. making it the second oldest in the city.2) is situated just off Keizersgracht Street in Zonnebloem (the new name for the old District Six).1) in Zonnebloem. South Africa’s most important civil society group. . and the Treatment Action Campaign (TAC). The window sills on ground level are particularly low down – this is due to the slow but sure ‘rise’ of Long Street over the past two centuries.186 RELIGION PL ACES OF WORSHIP KEY 98 Places of worship MOSQUES OF THE CITY The oldest mosque in the city is the Auwal Mosque (34 Dorp Street) in the Bo-Kaap. ST GEORGE’S CATHEDRAL St George’s Cathedral (Wale Street) is perhaps the best-known church in Cape Town. key 98. Above: The Al-Azhar Mosque (front map. key 98. The small Palm Tree Mosque in Long Street (185 Long Street) used to be a singlestorey dwelling. staged its first protest action for access to HIV medicines on the pavement in front of the building. one of Sunni Islam’s four schools of religious law. It played an important role in the anti-apartheid struggle and took the side of the oppressed against the apartheid government.
Its highlight is the pulpit carved by Anton Anreith. It is also the oldest church building in the country. Gardens Shul on 021 465 1405 and www. and Friday night services are frequently attended by up to 700 people. Building at the current site of the Groote Kerk (Spin Street) began in 1678.’ GROOTE KERK This housed the first Dutch Reformed (Nederduits Gereformeerde) congregation in South Africa. the Gitlin Library.stgeorgescathedral.grootekerk. Jan Jacob Greeff. the Gardens Shul was built in 1905.187 ‘Archbishop Desmond Tutu delivered several famous sermons here. St George’s Cathedral on 021 689 5235 (for bell-ringing) and www.gardensshul.za. Hyman Liberman. Cape Town had its first Jewish mayor. and was completed in 1704. the Holocaust Centre and a café. The synagogue’s vast interior and beautiful dome and arches attract worshippers from across the city. who was involved in many of the big building projects at the Cape at the time. It is part of a complex which includes the South African Jewish Museum (see key 18). who was also the president of the congregation. The church has a lively Congregation Centre in Kloof Street (55 Kloof Street) where there is a gift and coffee shop. Groote Kerk on www.bokaap. THE GARDENS SYNAGOGUE Situated in the grounds of the South African Jewish Museum (key 18). replacing the old one dating from 1863.org. The shul regularly plays host to religious talks and musical concerts.com for services.co.za.org . and Dutch wood carver. Detail: Information on city mosques on www. The building has been enlarged a couple of times since. In 1905.
From the restaurant. After the show. On Tuesday nights. which is an intimate 78-seater with large. shows begin late enough in order for you to depart the city bowl after rush-hour traffic and arrive on time for the dinner before the show. an evening spent at the Kalk Bay Theatre (52 Main Road. comfortable seats. Other shows run from Wednesdays to Saturdays (sometimes Sundays). the theatre is in the old Dutch Reformed Church. The shows put on at Kalk Bay Theatre vary from strong independent theatre (look for work by Rob van Vuuren. the theatre also hosts the legendary Theatresports. Above: At Kalk Bay Theatre (back map. built in 1876. with good vegetarian options. Kalk Bay) is one of the best nights out in Cape Town. an improvisational experience where the audience helps to shape the action by telling the actors what to do with hilarious consequences.188 KALK BAY THEATRE SPECIAL NIGHT O U T KEY 99 Kalk Bay Theatre For those in search of something different. dial 073 220 5430. Shows usually begin at 8. Situated in the Main Road of Kalk Bay. line-up on www.co. then go downstairs for quality theatre.kbt. Detail: Bookings are essential. It is about a 40-minute drive to Kalk Bay from the city centre. stand-up comedy and music. While it is quite a drive to get there if you’re staying in Cape Town. so it’s a good idea to be there by 7 pm to enjoy a leisurely meal. and runs vary from a week to a month or even longer. dessert and coffee is served upstairs in the restaurant again. you look down into the box-like theatre. you first enjoy a delicious meal. key 99). The building has been cleverly converted to accommodate the restaurant on the top floor and the theatre on the bottom floor.za .30 pm. The food is outstanding and there are usually two set menus. Tim Redpath or the From the Hip: Khulumakahle collective).
If you would rather have your casino experience far away from the rush of the city. There is plenty for families to do. When you start getting tennis-elbow you can rush over to one of the 68 gaming tables to play any variety of blackjack. the Grand Arena is one of the premier venues for big touring acts. hoping there will be more penguins around the corner. whether a humble 5c coin or a ‘buffalo’ (a R100 note). but on the N1 via the Huguenot Tunnel. But for those who are converts. If you’re not into gambling. Caledon is about one-and-a-half hours out of Cape Town on the N2. Cape Town has a church: GrandWest Casino. poker or roulette.E N T E R TA I N M E N T CA S I N O S 189 Casinos Either your eyes will light up when you see this page or you will page right on. Stadium on Main in Claremont on 021 671 1893. If you’ve lost a whack at the tables. The Golden Valley Casino at Worcester is about the same distance. The Caledon Hotel. are waiting to accept your money. Tyger Valley centre in Bellville on 021 914 8217. Joe Jackson and Chris Rock being some of the more recent performers. from the Hollywood Slots to King Kong. Spa & Casino on 028 214 5100. local and international. The Golden Valley Casino on 023 348 7200. The only ice-skating rink in the Cape is situated here. N1 City in Goodwood on 021 595 2100. . More tenpin bowling: Great Escape in Canal Walk shopping centre on 021 551 4830. as well as a tenpin bowling alley. you can always head for the Spa & Wellness Centre for a bit of TLC and soft crying into a towel. where the Caledon Hotel. Over 2 500 slot machines. There are also movie theatres and a variety of restaurants. why not combine it with a scenic drive through the Overberg to the small town of Caledon. with the Counting Crows. key 100) and 021 505 7777. KEY 100 Detail: GrandWest Casino (above) is at 1 Vanguard Drive (back map. Spa & Casino is situated.
sanparks. wood (charcoal briquettes are also popular) and meat and vegetables. At its most basic. Newlands Forest and the Tokai plantation. Above: Oudekraal (back map. key 101) is situated off Victoria Road between Camps Bay and Llandudno. with the best possible sunset perches and a tiny sheltered beach. then Highlands Avenue and then Deer Park Drive to its very end.190 BR A AI THE BEST PL ACES KEY 101 The best braai spots The braai (barbecue) is a bit of a national obsession. There are a few scenic places within the Table Mountain National Park where braaiing is permitted. In the city bowl. fish (especially snoek wrapped in foil).org. Remember to ensure that your fire is extinguished when you leave. waiting for the coals to be ready and then cooking some meat over the coals using a grill. Follow Upper Buitenkant towards the mountain. Lamb chops. potatoes. it comes down to making a fire. Vegetables are usually wrapped in foil and put directly onto the coals – onions. A sign will indicate a right turn at the top of the pass. but chicken. sosaties (kebabs) and boerewors (traditional sausage) are the meats of choice.za . with everyone believing that only they know how to do it properly. sweet potatoes and butternut work best. Most supermarkets stock everything you need: a grill (see key 60 for the mother of all braai stores). Other sites in the park include Buffels Bay (near Cape Point). although it is obviously restricted in most areas because of the fire hazard. and beef steaks are also popular. Try Silvermine and Oudekraal. Van Riebeeck Park is a good place in which to braai. Detail: Table Mountain National Park on www. Silvermine can be reached by following Ou Kaapse Weg (M64) from the Cape Town side towards Kommetjie. Oudekraal is right on the sea.
keep going towards Ceres. The small settlement at the top of the pass has an antique store with great secondhand books. While the mountains here harbour some of the remaining Cape leopards. but with a good road map it shouldn’t be a problem. There are braai and camping sites at Tweede Tol (Second Toll) and if you overshoot it. Detail: To rent a house in the village call 021 873 5620. Cape Nature at www. Limietberg Nature Reserve.BA I N ’ S K LO O F PA S S DAY T R I P 191 Bain’s Kloof Pass Bain’s Kloof is the destination for discerning travellers. so you can picnic in peace. towards Ceres. the 16-kilometre-long pass just gets prettier. those in search of a different experience. KEY 102 Above: The Witte River at Bain’s Kloof Pass (back map.za and 021 864 1159. key 102). your chances of encountering them are virtually zero. Linda’s Kitchen. a book and a friend and head down to the clear waters of the Witte River for a day of blissed-out relaxation – chances are the only sounds you’ll hear above the burble of the stream will be the odd agitated bark of a moody baboon somewhere in the cliffs above.bainskloof. Corner Lodge at www. It’s a potentially confusing hour-and-a-half drive to the top of Bain’s Kloof. Bain’s Kloof Pass is named after one of South Africa’s most famous pass builders.co. There is accommodation at Corner Lodge (backpacker style and double rooms) and there is a restaurant. who built this pass with the help of a team of convicts in 1853.org.capenature. so hiking permits are needed if you want to venture to the river or onto the trails. Past the settlement. .za and 021 426 0723 (information) or 021 659 3500 (hiking permits). Andrew Geddes Bain. Pack a picnic basket. a towel. The surrounding mountains and fynbos are part of a Cape Nature conservation area. for there’s another great pass to traverse – Michell’s Pass. Aim for the town of Wellington by whichever means and from there take the R303 towards Ceres.
They also have a comprehensive online catalogue. For crime novels set in Cape Town. On Saturday mornings the kids can enjoy a children’s story hour in the basement area. Downstairs. It’s a treasure trove of old novels. The Book Lounge has managed to create a strong reading community around it within a very short time.1) specialises in art books which are difficult to find elsewhere. Clarke’s Bookshop (211 Long Street) has been around since 1956 and scratching around this quaint old two-storey shop is an adventure which could easily take up a whole morning. Mike Nicol’s Payback and Deon Meyer’s Devil’s Peak. which captures the artistic heart and transmutating soul of the suburb and the city around it in the mid 1990s. look for back copies of Chimurenga. Also in Long Street are Tommy’s Books (130 Long Street). Buckingham Palace – District Six. Opposite: The Book Lounge (front map. a vibrant periodical about current African issues. . key 103. where very rare books are kept. Above: Clarke’s Bookshop (front map key 103. National Geographics and children’s books. CAFDA (18 Regent Street) is a charity book shop of the Cape Flats Development Association in Sea Point where you can practically disappear for a whole day.192 BOOKSHOPS HANDPICKED KEY 103 The best bookshops For those who love books. there is Obz Books (76 Lower Main Road) and here you might find a copy of Ashraf Jamal’s seminal novel Love Themes for the Wilderness. Ask permission to enter the Africana room. try Margie Orford’s Like Clockwork. In Observatory. Cape Town has everything from big chain stores to small specialist shops stocking collectables. Serendipity (198 Long Street) and Select Books (223 Long Street). The Book Lounge (cnr Roeland and Buitenkant streets) is a vibrant shop that stocks choice international titles. travel books and more.2) has helped to put the previously neglected Roeland Street area back on the map.
Quagga Books (84–96 Main Road.clarkesbooks.za . Detail: The Book Lounge on 021 462 2425. where the kids can let themselves go and draw on the tables while the parents sip coffee on the side and recuperate.co.co.readersden. launches and signings. Michiel Heyns.kalkbaybooks. Tom Eaton and singer-songwriter-poet Robin Auld. Claremont) stocks international and local comics and graphic novels – ask for local artist Joe Daly’s Scrublands or the Bitterkomix and Stripshow collections. Kalk Bay Books on 021 788 2266 and www. Protea Boekhuis (Andringa Street) is as comprehensive as it gets. A recent book by Lauren Beukes. The Boekhuis also hosts regular debates.book. CAFDA on 021 434 6149. is another author to look out for if you are interested in the nuances of the city.za.co. As far as the bigger chains go. Moxyland. Main Road.za. set in the heart of the city.co. A is for Apple on 021 447 6809. and features top Afrikaans authors like Tom Dreyer. Also check out Patricia Schonstein’s Skyline. A good resource for information on launches and readings: www. Etienne van Heerden and Koos Kombuis. Just down the road is Kalk Bay Books (124 Main Road) which hosts regular talks by acclaimed local writers such as Damon Galgut. Kalk Bay) specialises in rare and collectors’ editions. Finuala Dowling.za. Quagga on 021 788 2752 and www. The best kids’ book store in town is A is for Apple (16b Kloof Nek Road).za. both Exclusive Books and Wordsworth have branches in the major and smaller shopping centres – both have flagship stores in the V&A Waterfront (with coffee shops in which to relax and start that first chapter).193 ‘The Book Lounge has managed to create a strong reading community around it. Readers Den on 021 671 9551 and www. In Stellenbosch. The Readers Den Comic Shop (Stadium on Main.co. Mike Nicol.za. Protea Boekhuis on 021 882 9100 and www.’ written by an author born in this iconic neighbourhood.proteaboekhuis. races through Cape Town’s hipster scene at an apocalyptic pace. Clarke’s Bookshop on 021 423 5739 and www.quaggabooks. Richard Rive.co.
abseiling. while the mountain biking is split into three cycling tours: Cape Point and the Winelands (a full day. or hurtled down a mountain path on a wing. The sandboarding happens on the white dunes near Atlantis up the West Coast and sometimes near Betty’s Bay. Table Mountain descent (dirt tracks. . a ‘kloof ’ is a small river gorge or ravine. jumping into pools and so forth. Downhill Adventures can also help to facilitate tandem skydiving. swimming when required. mountain biking and surfing for anyone from beginners to those with more experience. jumping over rocks. and kloofing (aka canyoning) involves traversing a kloof from top to bottom. which offer pick-ups in the city bowl. The Downhill Adventures surfing school is designed to teach even those with two left feet how to stand on a surfboard by the end of the day. then you can just hire a bike and set off on your own. quad biking. Opposite: A paraglider hangs high after taking off from Lion’s Head (front map. What’s kloofing? Well. paragliding. professional manner. The Cape Peninsula plays host to an array of adventure sports. or skidded across the ocean at 80 km/h courtesy of a powerful kite. very mellow pedalling). One of the most prominent city outfits is Downhill Adventures who offer sandboarding. a prayer and a set of good bike shocks. with operators big and small waiting to assist you in a safe. Above: Sandboarding at Atlantis (back map. If you don’t want to go on the organised tours. guided hikes and kloofing. key 104. kitesurfing. clambering a bit here and there.194 EXTREME SPORTS KEY 104 Extreme sports If a holiday is just not a holiday if you haven’t jumped from a plane. key 104.1) on the West Coast. then you have no need to worry. but they drop you off at the top!) and Tokai forest (a high level of fitness required).2) with Camps Bay far below.
Cape Xtreme on 021 788 5814 and www. Skydive Cape Town on 082 800 6290 and www. If you like running off-road. Crazy Store Table Mountain Challenge on 021 424 4760. but the craziest of them all is the Crazy Store Table Mountain Challenge.195 ‘If a holiday is just not a holiday if you haven’t jumped from a plane . Abseil Africa on 021 424 4760 and www. Cape Town Tandem Paragliding on 076 892 2283 and www. so you’ll know if this is for you. Cape Xtreme offers even more variety.co. feet first. a ride in a real single-seater racing car at Killarney race track! Both Cape Xtreme and Downhill Adventures offer longer adventure trips (up to 13 days) down the Garden Route (which includes the world’s highest commercial bungee jump – a mad 216 metres).skydivecapetown. check out the website www. The Three Peak Challenge is a unique event with an interesting history.za .za. with jumps of up to 22 metres) to hiking to the summit of Table Mountain at Maclear’s Beacon.’ The most legendary place in which to go kloofing is Suicide Gorge. Be advised not to go kloofing alone or unguided – go with people who know the kloof and who will know where it’s safe to jump into pools and where not. In 1897.za to see where others enjoy taking on the wild.. from abseiling to kloofing (try Kamikaze Gorge. which is a 35-kilometre race around the entire mountain.abseilafrica.co. there is a 112-metre abseiling descent.com.trailrunning.. This race usually takes place in September.paraglide. There are a variety of trail races all over South Africa. popular with several operators.com. Abseil Africa specialises in all things mountainous.cape-xtreme. Kloofing Suicide Gorge is the very opposite of spending a day in a coffee shop.co. for example. Three Peak Challenge on 021 790 0298. Port Elizabeth and Durban (SA’s surf capital).co.za.downhilladventures. CW Detail: Downhill Adventures on 021 422 0388 and www. From the top of Table Mountain. with the city a thousand metres below you. where there are jumps ranging between three and 15 metres.
key 104. A century later.3) is a very popular mountain biking spot. They operate any day the weather is good. depending on conditions. Schneeberger set off from 108 Long Street (then home to Johannesburg Hotel) and climbed Devil’s Peak. After climbing each peak. Skydive Cape Town offers jumps from just north of Melkbosstrand. Robben Island and the West Coast all laid out like the most brilliant map you could ever wish to own. Opposite: Abseiling off Table Mountain (front map. Yes. about 40 minutes from Cape Town. and for sea kayaking see key 6. Skydive Cape Town caters for novices as well as pros and you can jump tandem with an instructor.196 EXTREME SPORTS ‘… down a mountain path on a wing. It’s probably also the best view you’ll get of the Koeberg nuclear power station. so maybe you’re not Robbie Williams and won’t be able to afford a helicopter .4) with Sea Point and Robben Island visible in the background. retracing his routes. Owner Manu Wegmershaus has all the experience in the world to ensure that your trip is something you will never forget. Table Mountain and Lion’s Head in succession. Sir Lowry’s Pass and Hermanus. His paragliders generally launch from Lion’s Head. key 104. The Three Peak Challenge usually takes place in November. For shark cage diving see key 114. but also from Signal Hill. Flights last between ten and 30 minutes. The view from up high in the Cessna is fantastic: the peninsula. he returned to the hotel for a break and some refreshment before setting off on his next climb. also starting from 108 Long Street. local hiker Don Hartley organised an event to celebrate Schneeberger’s climb. Cape Town Tandem Paragliding is the best for paragliding. a prayer and a set of good bike shocks …’ Above: Tokai Forest (back map.
za. Hermanus (key 113) and certain ‘Big Five’ game reserves (key 111). but if you get motion sick in the air.civair.com. If you’re at all prone to motion sickness.silvercross.197 ‘After climbing each peak. just in case you are. NAC Makana on 021 425 3868 and www. one of them an hour-long trip around the entire peninsula coastline via Cape Point and back to the V&A Waterfront. take a preventative tablet well in advance – your fellow passengers will appreciate it! CivAir flies Jetranger 3s and can arrange just about any conceivable trip for you. Ever wanted to fly over a cricket field and see everyone hit the deck? This is your chance! Detail: CivAir 021 934 4488 and www.nacmakana.thundercity. Franschhoek (key 105). And what’s this about fighter jets? Yup.za. a Bell 206 Jet Ranger and a Bell 206L Long Ranger. on 021 419 4839 and www. you’ll be happy to know that there are several charter companies who can give you a flip around the peninsula.thehueyhelicopterco.co. he returned to the hotel for a break. but. Huey Helicopter Co. whether private charter to an exclusive destination or a quick scenic tour of the peninsula’s natural hightlights. it will be a terrible experience.com . On offer are a Robinson R44. Silvercross Helicopter Charters on 021 934 2556 and www. NAC Makana Aviation offers four routes. Thundercity (based at Cape Town International Airport) can make all your Top Gun dreams come true. You can also charter flights to different wineland destinations. for a flight in a Huey – the helicopters made famous by the Vietnam War and many American movies.com.co.’ ride. Thundercity on 021 934 8007 and www. First things first: helicopter rides are fantastic. such as the world’s only flying English Electric Lightnings and BAe Buccanneers. join the Huey Helicopter Co. Thundercity flies classic former war planes. If you want something more ‘combat’ than this.
In the past decade and a half. It’s important to book in advance for any of these. at the headwaters of the Berg River and is the destination of choice for those in search of fine dining. The French Huguenot Monument (opposite page) was designed by JC Jongens and the central female figure made by master sculptor Coert Steynberg. the town has reinvented itself as the Gourmet Capital of South Africa with eight of the country’s Top 100 restaurants situated here. Haute Cabrière which is situated in a cellar. The Photos: The Old Corkscrew (above) in Franschhoek (back map. so that’s where you can eat the finest cuisine at a price to match. and the celebrated Reuben’s Restaurant and Bar (19 Huguenot Road). For a long time it was simply known as having been founded by French Huguenots – a monument honouring their arrival was unveiled here in 1948. While most South African towns boast an annual town festival. Franschhoek will be the best place in which to sit it out. Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants list several times now. . Some have even received global recognition: The Tasting Room at Le Quartier Français (16 Huguenot Road) has been named in the S. key 105) has a fascinating collection of corkscrews. If that doesn’t fit your pocket or palate.198 FR ANSC HHOEK DAY TRIP KEY 105 Franschhoek Some say that. This historic village is set in an idyllic valley of the same name. There are small franchises like the quality pizza franchise Col’ Cacchio (which you will also encounter in Cape Town). when the end comes. Pop in at The Old Corkscrew (11 Main Road) to see a vast collection of corkscrews and other antiques. Franschhoek currently has several festivals to attract visitors at different times of the year. This wasn’t always the case. there are 35 other restaurants to choose from.
la-motte. Franschhoek is perfectly situated for a day visit from Cape Town or an overnight stay to explore the valley properly. Franschhoek Uncorked happens in late August and is the perfect time to explore the area’s 43 wine farms. as well as the Drakenstein. La Motte. www.za. .org. Simonsberg and Wemmershoek mountains. Detail: Tourist Association on 021 876 3603 and www. the Bastille Festival happens in July with highlights being a barrel-rolling competition and French film screenings. was one of the first wine estates to be established here. Provence and Chamonix. Cabriere. Paarl in the distance.franschhoekwines. In fact. In step with the town’s French tradition.com for details) La Motte Wine Estate hosts classical music concerts in the restored historical cellar at the La Motte estate. Dieu Donne. what is now known as the Franschhoek Pass was then known as Oliphantspad (elephants’ road) because it was the route game followed across the mountains. At certain times of the year (check www.co. together with La Cotte.za. the valley was still known as Oliphantshoek due to the elephants which were found here. When the Huguenots settled here in 1688.franschhoek. The Old Corkscrew on 021 876 3671. La Dauphine. The Tasting Room at Le Quartier Français on 021 876 2151.199 ‘The town has reinvented itself as the Gourmet Capital of South Africa. Make time to drive up the pass via the R45 towards Villiersdorp for magnificent views of the town.’ Literary Festival happens in May and involves famous authors converging on the town to talk about their work and generally drink a lot of wine in the restaurants. while the Cap Classique and Champagne Festival in early December follows a similar theme: fine drinks and gourmet food.
If these are fully booked. popular amongst fishermen. yachting enthusiasts. The Geelbek Visitors’ Centre has a fine restaurant (housed in a farmstead which dates from 1744). Palearctic migrants. restrooms. near the town of Langebaan. Langebaan. Langebaan and the area to the south of the town has been preserved in the West Coast National Park. which breed in the Photos: Some of the houseboats (above) moored at Kraalbaai in the Langebaan Lagoon can be rented out. kite surfers and kayakers. Duinepos and Joanne’s Beach Farm near Churchhaven to permanently moored houseboats at Kraalbaai. which breed on the islands in the lagoon. Langebaan is of huge significance as a breeding site for birds such as kelp and Hartlaub’s gulls. Cape gannet and the African penguin. Please drive and walk carefully! . Zoning limits sporting activities to certain sections of the lagoon. leaving the southern end purely as a wilderness area. key 106) is a haven for tortoises of which angulate tortoises are most commonly seen. Saldanha or Vredenburg. As a Ramsar-protected wetland. or through the Langebaan Gate at the north. directly off the R27. nearby bird hides and also serves as the starting point for four circular day hikes. The West Coast National Park (back map.200 WEST C OAST NATIONAL PARK KEY 106 West Coast National Park The towns of Saldanha and Langebaan and their adjacent bodies of secluded waters are rich in history. Accommodation within the park is limited but varied. But unlike Saldanha with its industrial harbour to the north. The park can be entered at its south-eastern end. with everything from selfcatering houses at Abrahamskraal waterhole. The main feature is the shallow Langebaan Lagoon. try one of the nearby towns such as Yzerfontein (key 107).
.za and 022 772 2144/5.201 ‘It is even said that a lion once spent some time on the island . has a little Anglican church and from this elevated viewpoint over the lagoon you might see flocks of flamingo or white pelican dotted below. was named so because the Khoi used it as safe grazing for their sheep. even though the pace of the West Coast might’ve fooled you into believing otherwise. can also be seen in large numbers (up to 70 000 migratory birds). which can be seen from Langebaan town. Tsaarsbank on the Atlantic Ocean side of the park is a renowned whale-watching spot and from here you can look down Sixteen Mile Beach towards Yzerfontein. Detail: www. . just to remind you that you’re not that far from the city. The good news is that those two months are the best wildflower months in this area and the two-day Postberg trail is laid out for maximum enjoyment of the flowers (there is also a shorter day hike).org.sanparks. You will see Table Mountain down to the south. established by fishermen in 1804. which you should be able to make out on a clear day. Churchhaven.’ northern hemisphere summer and then fly here for the southern summer. ruddy turnstone and curlew sandpiper which fly 15 000 kilometres annually. Schaapen Island.. These waders include grey plover. It is even said that a lion once spent some time on the island back then – it swam to its safety after being pursued by hunters and then lucked out when it found the flock of sheep! The Postberg section of the park is only open during August and September as it is privately owned and only managed by SANParks. all the way from Siberia. just to feed and recuperate here.
which is where the excellent Meeurots Restaurant gets its name. The rocky outcrop in the bay is called Meeurots (Gull Rock). Beyond the town limits you’ll see the Strandkombuis. be sure to turn back in good time before it gets too dark. Above: If you’re heading up Sixteen Mile Beach at Yzerfontein (back map. The harbour is not very pretty. Strandkombuis on 082 575 9683 (appointment only).co. as well as Table Mountain far to the south. key 107). for a sunset stroll. but climb up the hill behind it for a good view of the whole bay. . the restaurants will ensure you never go hungry.202 YZERFONTEIN SEASIDE TOWN KEY 107 Yzerfontein The small seaside town of Yzerfontein lies 85 kilometres north of Cape Town. but there isn’t a very wide range of shops. so if you want to self-cater for a few days. There are a number of fine bed-and-breakfasts in town. Beaches Restaurant is indeed on the beach and from the outside tables you will have an uncluttered view up the coast towards Postberg in the West Coast National Park. Detail: Tourist office on 022 451 2366 and www. It is situated in the small centre on the corner of Main and Buitenkant streets. Meeurots Restaurant on 022 451 2608. called Sixteen Mile Beach and made for walking. rather than swimming. From this side you will see Dassen Island ten kilometres offshore (an important seabird breeding colony). Beaches Restaurant on 022 451 2200 (not open for dinner). Alternatively. The beach is. Chances are that your only companions will be the odd local fisherman. as well as self-catering accommodation. a retired couple walking their dog and a few washed-up jellyfish. buy your food elsewhere. which makes it the perfect place to escape to if you want a taste of the West Coast but don’t have much time to explore far up the coast.za.tourismyzerfontein. nor in much use. The town stretches southward with a narrow line of new holiday homes gradually inching towards Cape Town. for obvious reasons. a partially open-air seafood restaurant.
W E ST C OA S T F O S S I L PA R K 203 West Coast Fossil Park South Africa has one of the best fossil records in the world because it covers such an extraordinarily long period – from 3 800 million years ago to about a million years ago. adapted to changing climates and either thrived or died out. such as a visit to Paternoster. There are also short mountain bike trails. ranging from three-toed horses and short-necked giraffes to sabretoothed cats. A crucial 100-million-year period is also preserved without interruption. Detail: Monday to Friday. Contact: 022 766 1606 or email wcfpark@iafrica. but this small area has yielded bones of more than 200 different kinds of animals. The West Coast Fossil Park provides visitors with a glimpse into this ancient past. It is easy to combine the fossil park with any of the other West Coast highlights. Saturday and Sunday. 8 am to 4 pm. a children’s playground. the West Coast National Park or Velddrif. which gives palaeontologists plenty of clues as to how animals evolved. Animals like these big cats thrived in the area about five million years ago when the climate was wetter. KEY 108 Above: A sabre-toothed cat skull is one of the many animal bones which have been unearthed at the West Coast Fossil Park (back map. horse riding. key 108).30 am and includes a slideshow.com . Declared on the site of a closed-down phosphate mine in 1998. a coffee shop and a bird hide.Tours include a guided visit to the excavation site while the main tour starts at 11. Some of our earliest ancestors also lived here – as proved by the discovery of 117 000-year-old human footprints at the nearby Langebaan Lagoon in 1995. You won’t see bears. but this arid landscape was once home to abundant wildlife. an enormous bear that weighed about 750 kg. huge cats or giraffes on the West Coast today. The footprints have been removed and are stored under lock and key in the National Museum in Cape Town. and equally supersized wolverines. the fossil park covers only 14 hectares. 9 am to 12 noon.
After running past Yzerfontein. Above: Bokkoms (dried fish) hang outside to dry in Bokkom Lane. A major annual event in Velddrif is the four-day-long Berg River Canoe Marathon which starts in Paarl and finishes at Velddrif 240 kilometres later. which is right next to the Berg River in Velddrif (back map. At Laaiplek. with the most obvious attractions being white pelicans and greater and lesser flamingos.isuzuberg. a world-and-a-half removed from anything you’d have experienced at the V&A Waterfront back in Cape Town. and Velddrif was so named because the wide mouth of the Berg River is crossed here. but utterly beautiful on the right day.tourismvelddrif. In Afrikaans. Langebaan and Vredenburg.za. www. key 109). is often simply known as ‘the West Coast Road’. Port Owen. Peroni’s Ocean Deli on 022 783 2480. with small boats moored at private jetties and the odd pelican waddling about. Dwarskersbos is a small residential village ten kilometres further up the coast where you can have coffee and a good meal at Café Izibele. Today it really is a collection of small settlements: Velddrif.org. often windswept. Laaiplek and Noordhoek.co. Peroni’s Ocean Deli is a great place to buy fresh seafood. The Berg River estuary is a big birding destination. A bokkom is a piece of dried fish – a West Coast speciality. Detail: Tourist office on 022 783 1821 and www. Berg River Canoe Marathon at www. Die Vishuis Restaurant on 022 783 1183. St Helena Bay lies in front of you here. Café Izibele on 022 784 0621. The short strip just upriver from the bridge is great for birding and a leisurely stroll amongst Bokkom Lane’s old fishing cottages.co.za . The Vishuis Restaurant is as rustic as it gets.204 VELDDRIF SEASIDE TOWN KEY 109 Velddrif The R27 which runs northwards from Cape Town up the West Coast. a drif is a ford or river crossing. The small Rocher Pan Nature Reserve just north of Dwarskersbos also has some good birding.capewestcoast. it comes to an end at Velddrif.
but it has managed to retain much of its original character. so restaurants like Seemeeu. A highlight of the day comes when the bakkies (little boats) return from sea in the afternoon. black mussels or snoek. Like most other formerly quaint West Coast villages. Blikkie rustic self-catering house on 082 856 9930. This is a good time to experience the atmosphere. Also visit the nearby Columbine Nature Reserve (just five kilometres from town).PAT E R N O ST E R S E A S I D E TOW N 205 Paternoster Depending who you believe. Thanks to development regulations. Fishing is the main staple of the inhabitants. Paternoster is probably the most picturesque West Coast fishing village. ‘Some of the original whitewashed fisherman’s cottages still stand. KEY 1 10 Above: A local Paternoster (back map. the lighthouse was commissioned at the turn of the 19th century but only became a reality as late as 1936. The unusual design is the work of HC Cooper who was also responsible for the lighthouses at Cape Agulhas and Cape Point. and they have become the hallmark of the town. some of the original whitewashed fisherman’s cottages still stand on a low hill called Kliprug. usually from late July to October. Voorstrand and the Paternoster Hotel are ideal for trying out the local fare such as crayfish. named after either the patre nostre (Our Father) prayer by early shipwreck survivors or a type of fishing tackle rig. After many ships wrecked themselves here. key 110) fisherman with a fresh catch of snoek.’ Stay over: Die Opstal selfcatering apartments on 022 752 2660. where there is a good campsite at Tietiesbaai and beautiful flowers during season. Paternoster has also been affected by the property boom of the last few years. Paternoster Hotel on 022 752 2773. The Cape Columbine lighthouse is another highlight. meet a few locals and buy fish directly from them if you are self-catering. .
0206 KEY 11 1 Paternoster Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
org.za. 022 772 2144/5 .sanparks.0207 pull quote Details: www.
Keep in mind that the rates start from R970 for a daylong safari.aquilasafari. They are very well looked after though. fenced area and not roaming freely as they would in a large park. (And who can blame them for being so camera-shy?) The other four – elephant. the leopard. such as the lions. some of the animals. You will also be able to see other game such as blue wildebeest. Sabi Sands and the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. Fairy Glen Nature Reserve is situated just outside Worcester with Aquila Private Game Reserve about an hour further up the N1 near Touws River. Detail: Fairy Glen on 0861 244 348 and www. so it’s not a cheap day out. then these offer excellent opportunities to get close to some pretty impressive animals. Hluhluwe. then the Western Cape isn’t the place for you. the only one of the Big Five which never completely disappeared from the region. oryx (gemsbok) and bontebok. rhino. Aquila Private Game Reserve on 021 421 4998 and www. with the last lion being shot in the Cape Town area in 1802.com. Above: A beautiful male lion at Fairy Glen Nature Reserve near Worcester (back map. remains the hardest to be seen as they lead extremely secretive lives in the moutainous areas. Inevitably. If you are limited for time. but you are welcome to self-drive. buffalo and lion – have been reintroduced and can now be seen within easy striking distance of Cape Town. So while the Big Five was historically found wild in the Western Cape region. zebras.com . South Africa is renowned for game parks such as the Kruger National Park.capebig5safaris. Ironically. they’ve been hunted out. where game is far more plentiful. Nature walks and horseback trails are also offered. key 111).208 THE BIG FIVE WILDLIFE KEY 11 1 See the Big Five First things first: if you really want to experience Africa’s famous Big Five animals. will be in a small. The reserves can arrange for you to be collected from your hotel.
(They are also open for dinner. On the menu you will find mussels. harder. but it’s quite some distance further north near Lambert’s Bay.muisbosskerm. for it’s sometimes slow in revealing all that it has to offer. white stumpnose and crayfish. KEY 1 12 Above: Bookings at Die Strandloper (back map. Remember.strandloper. Muisbosskerm on 027 432 1017 and www. Something which has become a speciality on the West Coast is the concept of an open-air beach restaurant. angelfish. They also offer accommodation. Die Strandloper (strandloper literally means ‘beach walker’) at Langebaan is arguably the king of these concept restaurants. A lunch session starts at noon and could last until sunset. it’s a beach restaurant. or doze for a minute to the tunes of the in-house guitarist.) In this time you have as many as ten courses to choose from. Detail: Die Strandloper on 022 772 2490 and www. which is the only item on which there is a limit – the rest you can eat as much of as you like! The homemade bread and roosterkoek (griddle cake) served with salty farm butter and apricot jam is delicious. hottentot. literally set on the sand mere metres from the water which yielded what you tuck into.com. key 112) are essential.co. High heels will have to be kicked off or you’ll be stuck in the sand.D I E ST R A N D LO P E R S E A F O O D H E AV E N 209 Die Strandloper beach restaurant The further you venture up the West Coast. by appointment. The other beach restaurant of note is called Muisbosskerm.za . the more you will discover. In between courses you can roll down to the Langebaan lagoon to cool off. Taking its name from the early Khoi inhabitants who combed the beaches and rocks here for food. so come in your swimming trunks. snoek (delicious with sweet potato). It has been open since 1986 and is one of the premier attractions in the area.
It is a singular experience to spend a few hours with these gentle giants. Abagold offers tours to their abalone facility. At just under two hours’ drive from Cape Town. key 113) you can do landbased whale watching (above) or go out on a boat to get a closer look (opposite page). When whales show off their tails like this. weigh up to 60 tonnes and potentially live to be a hundred years old! While Hermanus is reputed to have the best land-based whale watching in the world. But Hermanus remains the most renowned place from which to spot these gigantic mammals and it’s no wonder that this part of the Cape coast is known as the Whale Coast. but Photos: At Hermanus (back map. Want even more whales? The Whale Trail is a five-day coastal hiking trail in the De Hoop Nature Reserve (east of Bredasdorp. but the subsequent ban on hunting and concerted protection efforts have allowed the estimated population to swell to an estimated 2 200. as southern right whales congregate in the safe. humpback whales and killer whales can also be seen if you’re lucky. Luckily abalone farms have been set up to try and counter this looming disaster with conventional farming practices.210 HERMANUS WHALE WATCHIN G KEY 1 13 Hermanus whale watching The South African coastline offers many fine whale-watching stretches. Hunting reduced the numbers of southern right whales to about 50 by 1935. Chances are you’ll hear stories of abalone poaching while you’re in town and it’s true that this natural resource has been poached to virtual extinction along the coast here. Sometimes the tails stay up for ten or more minutes. . with the entire Cape Peninsula also yielding regular sightings. it is called ‘sailing’. Whale season is between July and November. you can get even closer to the creatures by joining one of the certified operators who take tours out into the bay. Bryde’s whales. approximately 260 km from Cape Town). Bookings on 021 659 3500. sheltered bay of Walker Bay to mate and calve. Hermanus is an easy day trip. Besides southern right whales. These gentle giants can reach 18 metres in length.
Bredasdorp.’ you’ll probably need longer if you want to explore the town and its surrounds properly. If the whales aren’t out playing in Walker Bay. such as Hamilton Russel. A short drive out of Hermanus lies the beautiful Hemel-en-Aarde Valley (Heaven and Earth) where there are several wine farms. If you know where to look for them. The Whale Festival usually happens in the last week of September. spot birds and enjoy great views.co.whalefestival. Elim. Whalehaven. usually a week before the Whale Festival. On Saturday mornings there is a Farmer’s Market and the reserve plays host to the annual Hermanus Wildflower Festival in September. Fernkloof Nature Reserve is situated in the mountains behind the town and covers almost 2 000 hectares of stunning mountain and coastal fynbos (about 1 600 species). Struisbaai and Arniston.za. Or simply stroll down the beach front.com. Hermanus is also a good base from which to explore other Overberg destinations such as Napier. Grotto Beach and Langbaai Beach. Bouchard Finlayson. Sumaridge and Newton Johnson Wines. Fernkloof Nature Reserve on www. Other beaches to search for are Voëlklip. soccer and even a boule tournament.com.walkerbayadventures. Detail: Tourist office on 028 312 2629 and www.za . mountain bike. Onrus is essentially a small suburb of Hermanus and the beach at Onrus has probably the best swimming beach.co. Abagold on 028 313 0253 and www.za. The Milkwood Restaurant. there are a couple of fine beaches at Hermanus too.hermanus.fernkloof. Southern Right Charters on 082 353 0550. Here you can hike. www.211 ‘It is a singular experience to spend a few hours with these gentle giants. then go for second prize: visit the Whale Museum.abagold.co. Walker Bay Adventures (kayaking) on 082 739 0159 and www. relax in one of the many good restaurants at the Village Square shopping centre or explore the harbour. a half-marathon. There is also a good restaurant. It features music.
0212 KEY 1 15 Shark Cage Diving Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
sanparks.org.za. 022 772 2144/5 .0213 pull quote Details: www.
White Shark Ecoventures on 021 552 1824 and www. You will never be in water much deeper than a metre and a guide will be on hand to help you should there be any problems. some operators offer an all-inclusive pick-up service from Cape Town. While you can drive there yourself. but in reality we are their only threat to survival.com. you would launch from Kleinbaai harbour in Gansbaai. you can also just do surface viewing from the safety of a boat. Detail: Sharklady Adventures on 028 312 3287 and www. A fake seal (above) and a piece of fish (previous pages) are used to lure the sharks close to the cage.co.whalewatchSA. is the capital for shark diving – there is even an annual Great White Shark Festival.214 SHARK CAGE DIVING ADVENTURE KEY 1 14 Shark cage diving The better we understand sharks. You don’t have to be an open-water diver to see the sharks. Shark cage diving has become a very popular tourist activity in the Western Cape. Gansbaai. However.za . key 114) is the place to get up close and personal with great white sharks. If you are in any way prone to sea-sickness. you can simply don a snorkel and goggles and get into the cage. so you will see them come right up to the surface. The sharks are lured to the boats using a piece of fish and a seal dummy (seals are the favourite prey of great white sharks). just past Hermanus.sharkzone. because it is feared that luring them to boats might lead to more shark attacks.za. even though you will come within close quarters of a great white shark on your excursion. Of course. Photos: Gansbaai (back map. you won’t put yourself in any real danger. Some consider it controversial. make sure you take preventative tablets well in advance – you might have to spend some time in the swell.co. In our imaginations they are fearsome predators.sharklady. set out to Dyer Island. the better it is for both them and us. drop anchor in what has become known as ‘Shark Alley’ and proceed with the dive. Typically. which won’t necessarily agree with what you had for breakfast. Dyer Island Cruises on 028 384 0406 and www.
you get onto the R316 which takes you to Cape Agulhas via Napier and Bredasdorp. but upgraded sporadically since. After having seen Cape Point’s dramatic sea cliffs and ocean washing up on three sides.back map. Today the lighthouse is a national monument – the building houses a museum and a good coffee shop. the settlement at Cape Agulhas. which either makes it a tight day trip or a perfect excuse to linger for a few days in the Overberg. Stay over: Agulhas Country Lodge (four star) on 028 435 7650. If you branch off the N2 at Caledon. Onrus.tourismcapeoverberg. KEY 1 15 Photos: A typical farming scene in the Overberg region (above) and the lighthouse at Cape Agulhas (next pages . key 115). Kleinmond. you will eventually reach the sea again at Struisbaai. functional since 1849. a pretty coastal town which has slowly grown over the last few years. Hermanus and Gansbaai. It is now barely three kilometres from L’Agulhas.co. but definite end.za . and where the continent of Africa comes to a serene. Cape Agulhas Backpackers on 082 372 3354. You can have your photo taken where the Indian and Atlantic oceans meet. the region in which it lies. several other towns can be explored on your way to Cape Agulhas. It is a good four-hour drive from Cape Town. an old Moravian missionary town. and it’s a far more contemplative place than Cape Point. Besides the coastal towns of Betty’s Bay.AG U L H A S A N D T H E OV E R B E RG W E E K E N D AWAY 215 Cape Agulhas and the Overberg While at Cape Point it might feel as if you’re at the end of the African continent. It’s quite featureless except for the lighthouse. Cape Agulhas might be disappointing. More about the region: Overberg Tourism on 028 214 1466 and www. but the actual southernmost point is Cape Agulhas. Whichever route you take. At Napier you can take an alternative route via Elim. The ocean pounding the rocks is still impressive though.
0216 KEY 1 16 Overburg Above: xxx Opposite: xxx .
0217 pull quote Details: www. 022 772 2144/5 .za.sanparks.org.
051 Camps Bay (Key 28) Long Street (Key 03) Cake on Long Gourmet Burger Kauai Khaya Nyama KFC Lola’s Long Street Café Maharajah Indian Masala Dosa 020 018 018 020 018 020 020 020 019 Baraza Blues The Codfather Dizzy Jazz Café La Med Paranga Primi Piatti Sandbar Sinnful Summerville 065 065 065 065 065 065 065 065 065 065 .218 RESTAURANTS Kloof Street (Key 23) Arnold’s Asokã Bacini’s Buzz Café Paradiso Café Sofia Caramello’s coffee shop Da Vinci Depasco Café Bakery Fabulous Gainsbourg coffee shop Kauai Limnos Bakers Liquorice and Lime Manna Melissa’s Food Shop Ocean Basket The Opal Lounge Saigon Shelley’s Gourmet Café St Elmo’s pizza Tong Lok Toni’s Zucca Lounge 055 055 055 055 055 055 054 055 054 055 055 054 054 055 055 055 054 054 055 055 054 054 055 055 Mountain View Takeway Mr Pickwicks Nando’s Nyoni’s Kraal Portobello Café Royale 019 019 018 019 019 020 Sea Point (Keys 22 and 27) Aris Souvlaki Café Bravo Café Neo The Cedar Restaurant Geisha Gelato La Vie Café Mario’s Restaurant Maz Sushi Bar Newport Market & Deli Posticino Ristorante RG Kabab Mahal Saul’s Saloon & Grill Soju Bar Theo’s Grill Tom Yum Venezia Wafu Wakame 063 023 023 063 023 023 023 063 062 023 063 063 063 062 023 063 062 023 023 022 V&A Waterfront (Key 02) Balducci’s Restaurant & Sushi Bar Cape Town Fish Market Ferryman’s Tavern Mitchell’s Waterfront Brewery Paulaner Braühaus Quay 4 Tavern 017 017 017 017 017 017 Winchester Mansions Bo-Kaap (Key 16) Biesmiellah Restaurant Noon Gun Tea Room 041 041.
078 Kalk Bay (Key 62) The Brass Bell Cape to Cuba Harbour House Restaurant Kalky’s Lino Café Olympia Café & Deli Polana Restaurant Cocktails (Key 86) Andiamo Beluga Buena Vista Social Café Café Mojito Cellars-Hohenhort Ché Bar Ignite 167 167 167 167 167 167 167 167 167 167 Muizenberg (Key 72) The Empire Café Fogey’s Railway House Restaurant The Olive Station 149 149 149 The Radisson SAS Hotel Waterfront Tobago’s Bar and Terrace The Twelve Apostles Hotel Observatory (Key 82) Café Ganesh Obz Café Panchos Sushi Zone 163 163 163 163 Deli (Key 24) Carlucci’s Caveau Wine Bar & Deli Giovanni’s Deliworld Knead Bakery & Coffee Shop Melissa’s Food Shop Raith Gourmet Sage 141 141 141 141 141 141 The Daily Deli 056. 057 057 056 057 056 057 057 057 Paarl (Key 70) Bosman’s at Grande Roche Hotel De Leuwen Jagt Kikka La Romantica Lecca il Gelato Terra Mare Sushi (Key 36) Balducci’s Restaurant & Sushi Bar Golden Wheat Kubo’s Little Japan Maz Sushi Bar Minato Japanese Sushi 017 145 079 062 079 079 163 079 065 079 079 Stellenbosch (Key 71) The Blue Orange De Volkskombuis Golden Wheat L’Olive Melissa’s Food Shop Wijnhuis 145 145 145 145 143 145 Oishii Fusion Sushi Bar Sushi Zone Tank Restaurant & Sushi Bar The Codfather Wakame Willoughby & Co .219 Hout Bay (Key 55) Fish on the Rocks Kitima Seafood Bistro Wharfside Grill 109 109 109 109 African Restaurants (Key 35) Addis in Cape Africa Café Khaya Nyama Mama Africa Marco’s African Place Nyoni’s Kraal 123 123 123 122 122 122 123 078 078 020 078 078 019.
121 . 156.Deer Park Café 161 . 171. 119. 127 .‘what if the world’ gallery 86 Artscape 87 . 176 climate 6 climbing 14. 70. 99 Canal Walk Shopping Centre 112 Cape Argus Cycle Tour 137 Cape Agulhas 215. 105. 168. 105. 192. 65. 15. 196. 113 D Darling 89. 16 buses 50. 151. 137.220 INDEX A abseiling 194. 118. 156. 94. 214 (see sharks) Duiker Island 108 Dyer Island 214 . 153. 169.Blue Mountain Backpackers 20 .African Penguins (see Boulders) 117 . Sea Point 23 . 80. 209 cricket 80 cycle 14.Fish Hoek 68.Central Methodist Church 75 . 100. 122.Erdmann Contemporary 86 . 40. 108. 173 .Groote Kerk 187 . 140. 27 .Photographers Gallery ZA 86 . 70.Curious. Andrew Geddes 191 Bain’s Kloof Pass 191 bars 166. 157.Sasol Art Museum 143 . 60. 121. 75. 66.Betty’s Bay 117 Big Five 208 birds 120.West Coast Fossil Park 203 churches . 51 . 65. 193 Boyes Drive 148 braai 31. 42.museum 49 .Travel Centre 20 De Klerk. 31.SA National Gallery 45. 161 Company Gardens 44. 73. 211 Blouberg 92. 67. 139 car rental 7. 196 C Cableway 14. 129 Dassen Island 117. FW 17 De Waal. 41.Long Beach 113 . 139. 113 .Glen Beach 64. 144. 55. 180.Rossouw Modern Gallery 150 . 215 Cape Quarter 58 Cape Town City Hall 70.books 192 . 191 . 150. 183.Association for Visual Arts 86 . 69.Sandy Bay 93 .Michael Stevenson Gallery 86 . 182. 179.Rocklands. 142 art galleries . 108 Cape Malay 40. 167 crayfish 109.Noordhoek 104. 201.African Portrait Gallery 18 . 64.Focus Contemporary 86 . 196 diamonds 25 . 50. 138. 164.Golden Valley Casino 189 . 71.restaurants 41 bookstores 19.iArt 86 .GrandWest Casino 189 Castle of Good Hope 21. 71 Cape Town International Convention Centre 50. 67 .World of Birds 120.St Martini German Lutheran Church 20 Clarence Drive 173. 111 . 59.Butterfly World 177 .Castle Street Backpackers 18 Bain.Hout Bay 110.Bikini Beach 173 . 176 children . 187 . 178. 41. 50. 45. 154 Butterfly World 177 Ceres 82. 172.Kommetjie 113 . 65. 57 Devil’s Peak 50.Blouberg 92 . 128 . 196.Diamond Works (see tour) 25 diving 69. 150 Cape Philharmonic Orchestra 70 Cape Point 171. 205. 117 . 197 Adderley Street 38 adventure sports 194 African art 86.Braaivleis Sentrum 118 bureaux de change 6. 104 Blue Lodge 20. 66. 47. 198 architecture 18. 164 Afrikaans 6.Bell-Roberts Gallery 86 . 167 coffee 56.Onrus 211 .guided tours 41 .Caledon Hotel Spa & Casino 189 . 79. 64. 202 day trippers .Scratch Patch 185 . 113. 184.Milton Beach 22 . 216. 170 Constantia 131. 196.Imhoff Farm 182 . 122. 7. 57.ice-skating 189 .Boulders Beach 24. 19. 61 . 160. 195.Llandudno 93. 181.St George’s Cathedral 45. 95. 117.The Africa Centre 164 . 172 backpackers . 190.Ratanga Junction 112 .Gordon’s Bay 68. 140 animals 121. 71. 167 beaches . 116 casino 189 . 116.Detour Traveller’s Shop 20 .shops 41 . 186. 200. 163. 217 Cape fur seal 17. Whetstone & Frankley 86 .Two Oceans Aquarium 26.Michaelis Collection 47 . 43. 71 Bo-Kaap 40. 197 clubbing (see Long Street) 58 Coastal Kayaks 24 cocktails 23. 191 Chapman’s Peak Drive 105. 194. 86 . 179. 208 antiques 19.Stellenbosch Art Gallery 143 . 204. 170. 164. Frederick 105 De Waterkant 58 delis 56.Camps Bay 50. 50 catamarans 16 Centre for the Book 70 B baboons 171. 98 Camps Bay 50.Clifton 24. 27. 172.
gatsby 73 . 55 kloofing 194 Kogel Bay 174.World of Birds 50. 129. 161. 128.comedy 87 . 201. 176 Kommetjie 113.Cap Classique and Champagne Festival 199 . 215 . 91. National 45.Col’Cacchio 198 . 125.Café Erte 156 . 123. 90 . 173 ice-skating 189 Imhoff Farm 182. 196.Café 156 J Jazz 30 . 91. 99. 48. 215 Gold of Africa museum 49 golf 126 Gordon’s Bay 172. 172. 109.Cape Town International Jazz Festival 138.Cape Town International Jazz Festival 138.music 89 fighter jet rides 197 Fish Hoek 68. 188.Haute Cabrière 198 . 109.Walker Bay Adventures 24 . 198 . 128.harbour 50. 205. The 198 . 58. 110. 69. 175.221 E emergency numbers 6 Ethical Co-op 82 events annual . 141. 173. 168.Reuben’s Restaurant and Bar 198 frogs 14 Franschhoek 130. 153 Grosvenor House 70 K Kalk Bay 122.Biesmiellah’s 73 . 173. 83.Gardens Online 156 . 169.J&B Met 137 .Old Corkscrew.Revelas Fisheries 19 .Café Neo 156 . 139 . 207 fish and chips . 148. 132. 70 lighthouses . 195. 124. 209 Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens 50. Cape Town 45.Sunrise Chip ‘n Ranch 73 .Dizzy Jazz Café 65 .Fish on the Rocks 109 . 139 .Cape Agulhas 215. 108 .Kaapse Klopse 30.Franschhoek Uncorked 199 . 200 Khayelitsha 96 Khoi.Slangkop 169 Lion’s Head 41. 117.tearoom 91 kite-surfing 92. 183 Internet cafés 156 .The Info. 40.Kalky’s 122 .Fynbos Deli 91 . 164. 54. 197 . 90. 108.SA Gourmet Festival 139 . 138 Good Hope Centre 71 Greenmarket Square 47. 49 horse riding 127.Wildflower Festival 211 extreme sports 194. 14.Noon Gun Tea Room 73 .Lusitania Fisheries 74 .Berg River Canoe Marathon 204 . Sir Herbert 45 Hermanus 24. 90. 201. 217 .surfing 113 .021 Lounge 30 . 101. 210. 98 . 176 gay 53. 205.Cape Epic mountain bike race 139 .Whale Festival 211 . 97 . 62. 182. Frank Major 44 G Gansbaai 214. 203 Hout Bay 31. 176.Bastille 199 . 210 Holocaust Centre. 54 Library.museum 109 .Geek 156 . 211. 196 Little Karoo 184 I ice cream 23. 199 fynbos 14. 211 food 82 .Texies 74 flowers 38. 178 . 122. 108.Two Oceans Marathon 139 . 39 helicopter ride 197 Hemel-en-Aarde Valley 211 Baker. 120. 24.Asokã 30 . 111.Mother City Queer Project 138 .Imizamo Yethu township 50. 106. 141. 216. 182 Koopmans-De Wet House 70 F False Bay 24. 183 fishing 26. 121 L Labia Theatre 53.The Green Dolphin 30. 200 Klondyke Cherry Farm 82 Kloof Street 53. 197 Fernkloof Nature Reserve 211 festivals . 99. 195.Silvertree Restaurant 91 .Navy 134 .Greenpoint 22 . 90.Mariam’s Kitchen 72 H Harley’s Liquor and Wine Specialist 38. 193 Kalk Bay Theatre 188 kayak 23.whale watching 201. 211 hiking 14.bunny chow 73 . 155. 191.Snoekies 109 .picnic hampers 91 . 75.Marimba Restaurant 30 . 210. 144.Cape Columbine 205 . 194. 206.Cape Argus Cycle Tour 137 . 198.Great White Shark Festival 214 . 152.The Golden Dish 73 . 96. 92.Franschhoek 130. 65. 98.Snoek Derby 109 . 136 .film 53 . 89 Johnson.
ORMS Profoto 19 .Fiction 20 .Stones 19 Long Street Turkish Baths 20.Dorp Street Mosque 19 Mount Nelson Hotel 37. 139.Kirstenbosch Craft market 83 .Bo-Kaap Museum 49 .South African Maritime Museum 17 . 48. 89 music (live) .Sea Point Pavilion Pool 22. 133. 19. Govan 106 money 6 Monkey Town 172 mosques . 91 . 152.African Women’s Trading Market 153 . 71. 48.VOC Kruithuis 143 music 19. 170.Observatory 68. 68 .Gold of Africa Museum 49.Simon’s Town Museum 134 .222 INDEX Lipton Cup 36 Long Street 18.Palm Tree Mosque 186 .District Six Museum 46. Cecil John 44.Long Street Baths 52 .South African Slave Church Museum 18 .Oude Molen Brandy Museum 133 .tidal 64. 107 Rooiels 176 rugby 81 running 22.Slave Lodge 46 . 106. 52 Lourensford Estate 172 Luthuli.Farmer’s Market 211 . 144. 82. 182 Old Biscuit Mill 82 Old Post Office 71 .La Motte Wine Estate 199 . 84. 88. 27. 150.Kirstenbosch summer concerts 90. 45 mountain biking 139.Hout Bay Museum 109 N Newlands Cricket Ground (Sahara Park Newlands) 80 Newlands Rugby Stadium 81 Noon Gun 51. 68 Pringle Bay 176 Protea Assurance 71 provincial administration offices 71 putt-putt 23 M Maclear’s Beacon 14 Mandela.Mercury Live 88 .Paarl Museum 140 . 70. 106.Heart of Cape Town Museum 49 . 97. 98. 85 .Die Boer 89 . 56. 163 Ocean View 169. The 134 Rhodes. 45. 75. 204 . 45. 92.Rondebosch craft market 83 . 190 . 50 ostrich farm 184 Overberg 116. 148 museums .Winchester Mansions 23 . 158.The Whale Museum 211 .The University Museum 143 .Greenmarket Square 75 . 70. 50 . 52. 17. 211 Muizenberg 113.Irma Stern Museum 48 . 141. 101. 47 playground (Sea Point) 22 playcentre (Two Oceans Aquarium) 27 Polkadraai Farm 82 pools. 215 P Paarl 140. 45. 91. swimming .The Waiting Room 20 . 117. 163 . 83 .Museum van de Caab 130 . 141. 194. 97. Nelson 17. 20. Albert 17 .South African Naval Museum 134 .Waterfront 17 . 100. 195 O Observatory 162. 47.Café Mojito 20 . 50 .Paarl Mountain Nature Reserve 141 paragliding 195.Durbanville Kunskafee 89 .Shap’s Cameraland 18 . 149 Rhodes Memorial 100 Robben Island 16. 191 pilates 152 Planetarium 45. 163 Noordhoek 127 R Ratanga Junction 112 Residency. 107 markets 75.South African Jewish Museum 45.Auwal Mosque 186 . 31.The Assembly 88 . 47.Milnerton market 83.Marvel 20 . 50 . 153 Long Street bars and clubs .Zula Sound Bar 88 Mzoli’s 157. 196 parliament 45 Paternoster 205 penguins 24.Pan African Market 153 Martin Melck House 49 Mbeki.Imhoff Farmer’s Market 183 .South African Museum 45.Photographic Repairs 19 picnics 22. 159 Old Town House 75 Onrus 211 open-top city bus 17. 196. 200 photography shops .see museums .see restaurants .Village Museum 142 .Toy and Miniature Museum 143 .Muizenberg/Sunrise Beach Market 83 .Afrikaans Language Museum 140 . 50 . 92. 105.Newlands 68.Joburg 19 .Die Mystic Boer 145 .Neighbourgoods Market 82 .
Spa Steenberg 151 .Palmhof Shopping Centre 55 . 196 taxis 7.Spier 132. 27. Strandloper Restaurant 209 sundowners 65. 16.Lifestyle on Kloof 54 . Walter 106 skydive 196 soccer 34. 116.Groot Constantia 150 .wine route 132 Strand 172. 102. 190. 104. 134. Royal Cape 36 Yacht Club. Hout Bay 36 yoga 152 Yzerfontein 202 Z Zuma. 154 theatres . 50. 17. 178 sunset cruises 16. 35 . 39 . 90. Simon 142 Van Riebeeck.Harley’s Liquor and Wine Specialist 38. 214 shopping . 209 .Kalk Bay Theatre 87. 210. 50. 200. 90. 202.Jonkershoek 144 .Kloof Street 54 . 142. 188 . 139. 200.HB Thom Theatre 145 . 164 Stellenbosch 119. 133 . 92 Seal Island 69. 196 Tourism Office Cape Town 50 township tours 96.Vaughan Johnson’s Wine Shop 39 .Muratie 131.Mangwanani Private Day Spa 151 . 99.Tokara 131 .223 S safety 7 Sahara Park Newlands (Newlands Cricket Ground) 80 sailing 128 scenic drives 105. 64 Twelve Apostles Hotel 37. 167.nightlife 145 . 144. 36. 17. 148. 194. 119 W Waterfront. 117. 205. 79 swimming 68 (see pools) synagogues 62 . 131. 17. 201 whales 24. 106 Velddrif 204 Vine Hopper 133 Voortrekker Road 118. 98. 164 . 63. 133.Blue and Red sheds (V&A) 153 . 186 Twelve Apostles 14. 26. 141 World of Birds 120. 213.Caroline’s Fine Wine Cellar 39 .Delheim 131 . 145 .Clock Tower 17. 50 Y yachts 16. 15. 35 .Constantia Uitsig 151 .winelands 116. 173. Desmond 17. 101. 121 T Table Bay Hotel 37 Table Mountain 14.St Peter’s Square 162 . 29. 113 sushi 62.Stillness Manor and Spa 151 . 92. 132.Caledon Hotel Spa & Casino 189 . 103 Silvermine 190 Simon’s Town 31.see theatres .Theatre on the Bay 65 Tietiesbaai 205 tipping 6 Tokai Forest 194. 148. Jan 44.Wine Concepts 39 wine farms . 23. 62. Jacob 106 . 211 whisky 165 wine shops .Real Cape Adventures 24 . 195.West Coast National Park 200. 117. 108.Backsberg 133 . 97 Tutu. 132 .Simonsig 131.Gardens Shul 187 V Van der Stel. 107 West Coast 24. Lord Charles 128 Somerset West 172 spas . 101. Victoria & Alfred 16.Maynardville 87 .Langebaan lagoon 24 . 31.Canal Walk 112 .Klein Libertas Theatre 145 . 28. Yacht Club.The Little and Intimate Theatres 87 .Sanctuary Spa (Twelve Apostles Hotel) 151 .Long Street Turkish Baths 151 . 128.The Baxter 87 . 170.Green Point Stadium 34 Somerset. 204. 203 . 130. 201. 135.Warmwaterberg Spa (Klein Karoo) 151 . 130.African Women’s Trading Market 153 . 93.Artscape 87 . 178 Two Oceans Aquarium 16. 178 Scratch Patch 185 Sea Point 50. 68 Sea Point Promenade 22. 153. 104. 33 surfing 93. 184.see museums .Athlone Stadium 34.V&A Waterfront 16 Signal Hill 51. 143. 212. 135 shark cage diving 214 sharks 135.Cape Medi-Spa 151 .The Masque Theatre 149 .Westin Grand Cape Town Arabella Quays Spa 151 Spier 132. 32.Cabrière 131 . 116.The Dorp Street Theatre 144 .Pan African Market 153 . 201. 129.Oude Libertas Amphitheatre 145 .Kanonkop 131 .Gardens 156 . 196. 176. 100. 185 Sisulu.
Simone. Jake and Tam – I really appreciate all your help. Justin. Toast thanks: Rebecca. This one is for the happy memories at 75 Dolphin Drive. tips and sharing ideas. for reading and nudging and pointing. David Harrison. The other Rebecca. Abbey. Yunus Mohamed and Jon and Suzette Minster for helping out with photographs. Erns. thanks for helping me kickstart it all. You’re a photo assistant and G&T maker extraordinaire. because without you this would’ve been rather dull. Friends. Key 45 is especially for you. thanks for lending an ear. Ceri and all at Jonathan Ball Publishers for giving us a gap. Sam. Monique and Priya. Nic. Ryan.Sam thanks: Big love to my parents. Toast & Sam thank: Marius for making it all look beautiful. and Kelly for last-minute reading. family and work colleagues for advice. . Big thanks to Eric Miller. Camilla and Greg – models of the highest order.
REGIONAL MAPS .
1 Extreme sports – Sandboarding at Atlantis 104.1 28 30 31.1 47.KEY TO REGIONAL MAPS 9.3 48.2 47.2 50 52 53 54 55 56 57 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 70 71 Jazz – 021 Lounge Soccer – Athlone Stadium Camps Bay Diving – Glencairn Architecture – Bellville City Hall Newlands Cricket Ground Newlands Rugby Stadium Fresh food and fruits – Neighbourgoods Market Alternative Markets – Milnerton Market Art Gallery – ‘what if the world’ Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden Blouberg – Beach walk Llandudno Township tourism – Imizamo Yethu Township tourism – Khayelitsha Township tourism – Langa Hiking – Cecelia Forest Rhodes Memorial Sundowner – The Blue Peter Chapman’s Peak Drive Robben Island Hout Bay Ratanga Junction Surfing – Muizenberg African penguins – Boulders Beach Voortrekker Road The World of Birds Kalk Bay Milnerton Golf Club Horse riding – Noordhoek beach Fish Hoek Darling The Winelands Simon’s Town Paarl Stellenbosch 72 73 78 80 81.2 82 83 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 99 100 101 102 Muizenberg Groot Constantia Freshwater fishing – Eikendal Vineyards Mzoli’s – Barbecue heaven Best peninsula coffee shop – Olympia Café Observatory Spier – moyo restaurant Sea fishing – Hout Bay Kommetjie Birding – Velddrif Walk with baboons – Glencairn Gordon’s Bay.3 Extreme sports – Mountain biking at 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 Tokai Forest Franschhoek West Coast National Park Yzerfontein West Coast Fossil Park Velddrif Paternoster The Big Five – Fairy Glen Nature Reserve Die Strandloper – Beach restaurant Hermanus – Whale watching Shark cage diving – Gansbaai Cape Agulhas .1 11. Somerset West & Strand Scenic drive to Rooiels – Clarence Drive Butterfly World Cape Point Imhoff Farm West Coast Ostrich Farm Scratch Patch – Kids’ paradise Kalk Bay Theatre GrandWest Casino Best braai spot – Oudekraal Bain’s Kloof Pass 104.3 37 38 39 40 41 44 45 46 47.
or discover lesserknown. If you want to know where to watch soccer. what to do with your kids or where to find the best sushi.220 full-colour pages • 115 things to do and places to visit • 25 suggested itineraries • Detailed city centre street map • Peninsula and regional travel map In Cape Town for a day? A week? Maybe forever? Key to Cape Town is a richly illustrated and easy-to-use guide that captures the very best of what the Mother City has to offer. He has lived in the city since 2001 and rather likes it. Time. Camps Bay and Cape Point from a fresh. off-beat destinations and things to do. She is a born. Or simply plan your own itinerary from a selection of 115 ideas. bred and proud Capetonian. Robben Island. the Winelands.sunbirdpublishers. Key to Cape Town shows you the way. suggests itineraries to suit your interests and to maximise your stay in Cape Town. Explore premier destinations such as Table Mountain. www. such as a relaxing day trip to Bain’s Kloof Pass or where to buy a tasty gatsby in the city centre. with all the maps you’ll need.co. This indispensable guide. Samantha Reinders is a freelance photojournalist whose work has appeared in The New York Times. Der Spiegel and National Geographic Books. Toast Coetzer is a senior writer at the South African travel magazines Go! and Weg.za . vibrant perspective.
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