Pumpkin Carving and Stencils

A Pumpkin Carving Primer
Jack-'o-Lantern Designs from FamilyFun

by Pam Glaven and Rani Arbo
For a brief few days this October, jack-o'-lanterns will

flicker across America, the happy result of wicked imaginations, fun-filled family afternoons and
lots of elbow grease. If your family is raring to carve pumpkins this year, we've got the scoop on
how to do it right. Below you'll find a step-by-step carving guide, tips for novice and veteran
sculptors, and three inspiring jack-o'-lantern designs (with templates) from a spooked pumpkin
kids can make with their own two hands to Goodnight Moon pumpkin and a howling panther
pumpkin.
CHOOSE A PUMPKIN
Whether you're picking your own or perusing a farm stand or grocery store, look for pumpkins
that are large, ripe and have smooth, even surfaces and at least a 2-inch stem (stemless, dented
and bruised pumpkins may already be in decline). If you plan to light your jack-o'-lantern with a
candle, the pumpkin should be at least 9 inches high.
MAKE A PATTERN
To design your own jack-o'-lantern, take a cue from your pumpkin--is it tall, squat or blessed
with a curly stem or irregularity you can incorporate into the design? What's the mood going to
be-- scary, goofy, artistic, just plain weird? Once you have a plan, sketch your pattern with pencil
and paper. If drawing freehand doesn't appeal, or if you're aiming for a complex pattern, use a
stencil or template. You can use the templates offered here or those available on the Web and in
carving kits.
CUT OUT THE TOP (OR BOTTOM)
To make a lid, draw a circle or a hexagon at least 5 inches in diameter around the pumpkin's
stem. Cut out the lid at an angle (so that the outside edge is larger than the inside) to keep it from
slipping inside. For a carving tool, we recommend a pumpkin saw. Those using knives should
carve gently and steadily. (Tip: Don't slide the knife all the way out of the pumpkin.) When the
lid is free, scrape it clean of seeds and pulp. Instead of removing the top, you may choose to
remove a section from the bottom or side of the pumpkin. (This works well for an unstable or
small pumpkin, or for certain designs, such as The Goodnight Moon pumpkin.)
SCRAPE OUT THE INSIDE

This delightfully slimy job calls for a large metal spoon or an ice-cream scoop. Little kids can
easily remove all the seeds and mushy stuff. Then a stronger pair of hands can take over
scraping. The thinner the wall, the easier it is to carve and the brighter your lantern will be.
Scrape until you've had enough or until the wall is 1 to 1 1/2 inches thick (stop before you
compromise the strength of the walls). At the base, flatten a spot for the candle (again, don't
make it too thin, or the bottom will rot).
TRANSFER THE PATTERN

There are two ways to transfer your design onto the pumpkin. One is to copy it freehand onto a
clean, dry pumpkin with a water-based marker (mistakes can be easily corrected with a paper
towel). The other is to tape your pattern or template to the pumpkin, then score the design into
the skin by poking holes through the pattern with a nail or plastic poking tool (available in some
pumpkin-carving kits).
CARVE!
Okay, now you're ready to sculpt. Start at the center of your design and work outward (this
avoids putting pressure on areas already carved). Begin with the innermost and smallest features-
-eyes before eyebrows, for instance--and try to carve the inside lines of each feature before the
outside lines. Be gentle: If you're using a knife, run it over each line a few times, rather than
pushing all the way through. Don't cut all the way to the end of a line on the first cut. As each
shape loosens up, gently push it out of the pumpkin with a finger or a dull pencil point (a good
job for small kids). Larger shapes, such as gap-toothed grins, may have to be removed in pieces.
Tip: If you cut something you didn't intend to, perform an ad hoc pumpkin surgery: Stick a
toothpick through the flesh side of the piece and fit it back into place.
EXPERIMENT WITH SHADING

You can create dramatic effects by letting candlelight through the pumpkin in varying intensity.
For a shaded effect, don't cut all the way through the pumpkin. Instead, make a shallow, angled
(or V-shaped) cut (1/8 to 1/2 inch, depending on the thickness of the pumpkin wall), then peel
away the outer flesh with a knife tip, spoon or vegetable peeler. You also can use deep, angled
cuts to remove larger pieces, so that the light reflects off the walls of the hole.
TEST-DRIVE YOUR PUMPKIN

Now is the moment of truth. Place a candle inside your pumpkin (votives are more stable than
tapers). Light the candle, put on the lid and turn out the lights. If the candle doesn't stay lit,
increase the air supply either by enlarging some of the features or by carving a vent on the back
of the lid. Lastly, put your jack-o'-lantern in a place of honor (away from flammables) and
remember to blow out all candles before you go to sleep.
Visit FamilyFun's Halloween Fright Site page for more great decoration ideas.
Perfect Pumpkins
Crafty Carving Tips from FamilyFun
If you're looking for a great pumpkin to carve this Halloween season, take a cue from Linus and
head directly to the patch. To locate a commercial grower in your area, contact your state
agriculture department. Then you can call the farm directly to inquire about hours, prices and
available varieties (Connecticut Field, Howden and Baby Bear are good bets for carving; Small
Sugar, Golden Cushaw and White pumpkins are choice for pie making). Ask if the pumpkins are
displayed at a stand or if you can harvest your own from the field. Do they charge by the
pumpkin or the pound?
Once there, after your family has surveyed the lot, you're probably in for a patch-side debate over
the perfect specimen. Whether you plan to decorate with a row of small and medium-size globes
or a single huge one (the largest one on record was grown in Washington state and weighed a
whopping 827 pounds), be sure the pumpkin you choose is symmetrical enough to rest squarely
on a flat surface. Pass over any with bruises, cracks or broken stems, because they tend to
deteriorate quickly.
Plan on carving no earlier than a day or two before Halloween--jack-o'-lanterns have short "step"
lives. And remember to bring your porch pumpkin indoors on nights when the temperature is
expected to drop below freezing.
CARVING TIPS
• Draw your design on the pumpkin with a water-based marker beforehand. Mistakes are erased
easily with a damp sponge.
• Cut the top and any large areas with a sharp, straight-edged knife. A dull blade is not a safer
alternative.
• Serrated metal saws, now widely available in carving kits, are a safer alternative to knives and
allow younger children to get in on the action.
• Carve away from yourself; kids should carve only under adult supervision.
• Never hold the knife in a stabbing position.
• When carving, keep a portion of the knife blade in the pumpkin and use slow, steady saw
strokes.
• Cut the lid at an angle so the outside diameter is larger than the inside.This prevents the top
from falling into the pumpkin when it shrinks.
• Scoop out seeds and stringy flesh with a large spoon or ice cream scooper.
• Carve the facial features closest to the center first and work outward. Cut out the larger features
in sections.
• Use an X-Acto knife for details and the tip of a potato peeler to make small circles and curves.
• Remove carved portions by gently pushing them into or out of the pumpkin.
• Reattach a section that is accidentally removed by using a toothpick to pin it back in place.
• Make design holes large enough to provide adequate ventilation for the candle.
• Flatten a spot in the base of the pumpkin for the candle but avoid digging too deep because the
pumpkin becomes prone to rot.
• Make sure the flame is not too close to the top of the pumpkin.
• To prolong the life of the jack-o'-lantern, seal in moisture by coating all cut surfaces with
petroleum jelly or vegetable oil, or cover it with a damp towel when not on display.
• Consider giving smaller children stickers, tempera paint, or markers to decorate their own
pumpkins.
DLTK's Holiday Activities for Kids
Pumpkin Carving
Patterns
Click here for templates >
Step by Step Instructions:
• Prepare your pumpkin by:

o Cut a hole in the top for the lid.
Make sure you angle the saw
inwards so your lid sits on top of
the pumpkin and doesn’t just fall
through
o Scoop out the seeds and strings
with a spoon
o Scrape some of the flesh from
the inside so your pumpkin is
about an inch thick all the way
around (or at least wherever
you’ll be carving). You can
poke a straight pin through it to
estimate the thickness
• Print out the pattern.
• Trim off excess paper.
• Tape or use pins to affix the pattern to

the pumpkin.
• If your pumpkin is quite lumpy, dip the paper in water or vegetable oil (the oil will
make printer ink run less, but makes the project quite slippery).
o Smooth the pattern onto the pumpkin, affix with pins or masking tape and
let the paper dry.
o You can also make small cuts in the paper where it bunches so it lies flat
on the pumpkin. Add pins or tape to hold
• Poke holes through the pattern with a nail, push pin or
pumpkin poker. Make the holes about 1/8th inch apart
(or even closer for more complicated patterns). This step
can take quite awhile so be patient. Just place the
pumpkin in your lap and work away at it.
• Remove the paper from the pumpkin.
• Rub flour or chalk dust all over the part where you poked
the holes so you can see them better.
• Push a nail through the pumpkin skin where you want to

start carving.
o Turn and push until it’s all the way into the
pumpkin, then remove.
o Repeat anywhere you're going to need to start
carving (eyes, nose, etc).
o You want to do all the pushing before you start
carving because it take some pressure (once you
start carving, the pumpkin becomes weaker and
applying pressure may cause it to break)
• Using your nail hole as a starting point, cut the design

with your serrated knife or saw.
o start somewhere in the center of the design to
keep from putting too much pressure on areas
already carved
o Use a sawing motion to cut out your design, using
very light pressure… take your time and allow the
sawing to do the work rather than applying
pressure and forcing it.
When making curves, just slightly turn the saw. When

making sharp corners, remove the saw and re-insert it at
an angle.
• To remove pieces, push them out from the inside. For

larger pieces, you may want to cut them into smaller bits
and remove them in sections.
• Once your pumpkin is all set, use a pumpkin light (safer
than a candle) or a candle in a candleholder designed
for pumpkins to light it up.
o Light the candle and place it on a piece of tinfoil
inside the pumpkin. Put the lid on. Let it sit a
minute
o Remove the lid and there should be a smoke
mark on it
o Cut a vent in the lid where the smoke mark shows
Walt's Pumpkin Carving Secrets
If you're not in the mood to sit for a few hours and carve, but you want a unique
pumpkin, then check out the squinting pumpkin mentioned below.
Otherwise keep reading. Be sure to take necessary safety precautions.
How The Masses Do It

First of all, you should get yourself some carving tools.
The Pumpkin Masters website will tell you the basic steps to carving a pumpkin. And they also
have pattern books that contain some nice designs. ...designs everyone else will be using.
For a wonderful treat, check out Jay Ball's site PumpkinGlow.com for astoundingly beautiful
patterns, professional carving techniques, and tips on making your own patterns.
Another great site for tips and pre-made stencils is Ryan Wickstrand's site
ZombiePumpkins.com!
Alternatively, you can find similar tools by Pumpkin Party. While you can copyright an
implementation, you can't copyright an idea.
Secrets to Better Pumpkins

Selecting the Pumpkin
Select an unbruised pumpkin, the size doesn't matter - although bigger is better. You
can always enlarge your pattern; shrinking a pattern can get impractical for detail
work. Check for discoloration and soft spots.
Pumpkins that are flat and don't roll work best.
Look for pumpkins with a sturdy stem, this is the sign of a healthy pumpkin. Don't lift the
pumpkin by the stem, this can damage the pumpkin and make it age faster.
Check the bottom of the pumpkin to see if the base is damaged. Sometimes the bottom of the
pumpkin is thin and can get punctured. Bad things can grow in your pumpkin.
If the pumpking feels heavy and sloshy put it back. I once opened a pumpkin to find the insides
had rotted and there was a slimey, smelly, liquid goo.
The Right Tools
You need special pumpkin saws, drills, pokers,
scrapers, knives, exact-o knives, pins or thumb tacs,
and tape.
Saws of differing length and teeth spacing determine how

well they work for tight areas. Closer teeth and smaller
length provide high detail.
The width of a drill determines the size of the hole it

makes. Your drill's length should be able to fully
penetrate the pumpkin.
Scrapers are used to make the back wall of the pumpkin

smooth. This is where the reflected light will be coming
from.
Pokers are used to transfer patterns onto the pumpkin as

well as to make very small holes.
You can also obtain watermellon carving kits, the tools

vary slightly in design, but mostly you'll find scoops and
different patterns.
The most important tool is the mini hand held saw.

Preparation
Do not skip this step, no matter how much you are tempted to consider it too basic to
read.
Cut off the lid of the pumpkin, angling the edge of the saw or knife. This is the only time you
will be making a cone-shaped wedge. You don't want the lid falling in. Keep the pumpkin steady
and don't cut your hand, you'll need it later.
Note, not all pumpkins have to have lids. If you intend to have a candle, be sure there is plenty of
ventilation for the candle to breath, and consider not putting on the lid (which will scortch).
Optionally, cut out the bottom or back (unless you're casting a projection) of the pumpkin to
preserve the top.
After gutting the pumpkin of all it's guck and seeds and strings, scrape it with a scraper.
The wall for the front of the pumpkin should be no more than one inch thick. Anything more
makes carving difficult. Don't make it too thin, or then thin areas will dry out and get wrinkled.
See preservation tips to prevent shriveling.
The wall for the back of the pumpkin should only be scraped thin if you are going to cast a
shadow. In this case, scrape it down to half an inch thick. Read projection patterns are much
smaller, and it helps if there is less pumpkin wall to cut into.
Front Patterns
Patterns for pumpkins are about as large as the face of the pumpkin.
Anywhere that will be light on the final product should be cut away, in short, you're cutting out
the negative.
Patterns make high use of negative space.
Obviously you can't have pieces floating, so everything has to connect to the wall of the
pumpkin.
Rear Projection Patterns

Pumpkins can project images out the back and onto a flat surface. This effect looks
really nice for indoor displays.
The patterns need to be mirror image, that is flipped left-to-right, in order to project things like
text on the wall correctly.
Rear projection patterns need to be smaller than normal patterns and are typically no larger than
four inches square.
The pattern should be towards the top of the pumpkin's back, not centered like the frontal
pattern. The light source should be below the cut pattern. This allows the light to project upwards
onto the wall.
Lifting Patterns of the Net

If you see pictures, you can scan them and blow them up. If you see images on the
web, you can enlarge them as well.
alt.binary.clip-art typically has pumpkin patterns posted around October on the internet news
groups.
Making Original Patterns

Having a high quality, original pattern will get your pumpkin
noticed. As such companies that produce patterns consider the
process a trade secret.
But, we'll show you here how to make your own patterns by describing
how they work and why, and then teach you how to convert
photographs using Adobe Photoshop into amazingly detailed patterns like you see on television
shows and movies!
Transfering Patterns
Tape the pattern to the pumpkin, you may need to put slits into the pattern so that you
can fold a plane surface (the paper) around a sphere (the pumpkin).
An alternative method is to stick some long hat pins into the pattern to hold it into place. Either
do it along the pattern edge that you're supposed to cut, or do it in dead space (a block area that
will be cut out).
In bad lighting conditions you can use a poker and poke holes about one eighth of an inch apart
along the pattern's design lines. The denser the holes are spaced, the easier it is to trace the
pattern. Additionally, your saw will cut easier, just like it is easier to tear a piece of preforated
paper.
In superb lighting conditions, like you're sitting under a lamp, it is possible to use a thumb tac,
push pin, needle, or pin to make very fine holes. If you use this method, it will be virtually
impossible for people to detect how you transfered the pattern up close. You'll need to make a lot
of punctures.
Spreading flour, baking soda (not baking powder - it will fizz), corn starch, or ground chalk over
the holes will make them stand out.
Don't skimp on the time for transfering the pattern. A little extra work now will pay off greatly
later.
Use the poker to mark where larger holes should be drilled.
Don't attempt to go all the way though the pumpkin surface. You are simply making guide lines
for sawing later. You are marking the pumpkin skin.
If you have some colored water, like food coloring, you can dip your needle or pin into it, and
provide a little additional visual clues for cutting. If you need to, a dull pencil can mark the
surface to show which holes should be connected.
As you peel back your pattern, mark with a permanent marker or crayon the dead areas. These
will serve as reference points.
Some people advocate tracing the pattern with a pen, but I find this gives your carved pumpkin
the appearance of black lip stick. In the dark, and far away, this won't matter as much, but it
takes away from the carving's beauty when viewed in a lit area or up close.
Instead, save the pattern and refer to it while carving. If you were careful about peeling it off,
you should be able to hold it back up and align your reference points.
A good way to make reference points are to drill any holes first.
Carving Techniques
Hold the pumpkin firmly in your lap. Drill all holes first. Using an exact-o knife, remove any
areas of skin where you which to preserve the pumpkin meat. Scrape well behind any
areas where you want just mostly pumkin skin.
Then saw.
Three tips to help you get going:
1. Saw slowly and gently

Your saw is not a knife, don't cut with it. Saw.
Your saw is not a edge trimmer. You wanted a stunning pumpkin, the investment
is time. Follow the pattern edges carefully. It is better to make lots of little cuts
than one big cut. If you hand gets tired, put the pumpkin down and take a
break. A detailed pattern may take at least 4 hours to complete.
Too much force can cause you to damage the pumpkin.
It is vitally important to take your time. Be patient. Do not expect immediate results. Saw
dot to dot.
Hold the saw like a pencil. Push it in and out of the pumpkin flesh. The saw will cut its way
through in its own. Don't force it. It is not a knife. Don't slice. Don't push.
Should you damage a saw, use a pair of pilers to hold the end of the saw over a flame until the
saw is very hot (30-60 seconds), then push it into the plastic saw handle. Don't breath the fumes.
Don't push it all the way in, just about a quarter to half an inch. Let it cool off, or submerge it in
water.
If you feel sick, you breathed the fumes. If you burned yourself, you didn't use pliers. If you feel
sick and burned yourself, that's natural selection at work and you might want to reconsider being
in a room full of sharp objects.
Rotate the pumpkin so that you are always carving at a 90 degree angle into the pumpkin. Your
saw should always be perpendicular to the surface of the pumpkin, and it should always be on a
line to the center of the pumpkin.
Remove pieces of pumpkin parts with your fingers, not with the saw. Be sure the piece is
completely free. If it won't come out, cut it into smaller subsections.
Start at the center of the design and work outwards, each time you remove a piece of the design,
the pumpkin gets weaker.
Leave large pieces in until the end, so that your pumpkin's facial surface doesn't get weak while
you're sawing other areas.
Up close the pumpkin may not look as good or as smooth as you want. Wait until your pumpkin
is lit and in the dark to make the final, granular corrections.
Do not dig or spin the saws. Not only can this damage a saw, but it is not all that effective.
Repair
The best way to repair a pumkin is not to mess it up in the first place. Make slow, careful,
tiny saw movements.
Leave plenty of connective tissue. Cut the small holes first.
If something does fall off, put one or two toothpicks into the area that broke off, then carefully
push it back into place. Slide the piece on in the direction of the toothpicks so the final alignment
will be correct.
Don't worry if it isn't perfect, from a distance, a lit pumpkin will be visually distracting.
Preserving and Firming Up a Pumpkin

Put the pumpkin in a wash tub of cold water.
If the pumpkin is carved, put the carved part face down. Let the pumpkin float, and let the
insides fill with water. The pumpkin will absorb the water and become very firm.
If you have fine detail work to do, you may want to let your pumpkin soak over night. This will
firm up the pumpkin flesh and allow you to do intricate carving.
For long term storage, put a thin amount of petroleum jelly on the exposed, sawed edges. This
prevents water from getting out. If water gets out, your pumpkin will shrivel. Anytime your
pumpkin shrivels, soak it in a bath of cold water for one to eight hours, longer is better. Over
night doesn't hurt.
Putting a little unscented Clorox bleach in the water will prevent your pumpkin from prematurely
molding by killing off evil pumpkin germs.
Use a plant mister to spray your pumpkin and keep it moist. If you put it in plastic wrap to hold
the water in and place it in the refrigerator, not the freezer, you can keep the pumpkin looking
good for a long, long time.
Once you remove a wet pumpkin for display, you should immediately dry it off. This prevents
mold from hanving a chance to grow.
Lighting the Pumpkin

For professional quality photographs, you want to use an electric bulb in the pumpkin. A
40 watt, uncolored bulb on a electric cord works very well. Keep the bulb low or off to
the side so that it illuminates the inside back wall of the pumpkin.
Some people suggest using a simple seven watt bulb or two to three candles. I prefer the Tim
Allen approach.
It is important to scrape the back of the pumpkin to make a smooth surface so that no odd
shadows are cast.
Photographing the Pumpkin

With the pumpkin lit, ideally in a mostly darkened room, take a picture of the pumpkin
without using a flash. 400 ASA speed film works well, you can use 200 ASA if you let the
shutter stay open longer.
For really good shots, mount the camera on a tripod and use a zoom lens. This will change the
focal distance, bluring the background, but keeping the pumpkin sharp.
Ideally, a completely black background works well. If you are trying to catch a rear projection,
use a piece of dark, colored posterboard fold into thirds (with the center section acting as a
screen and the flaps for support).
If you've ever taken a picture with a light source behind someone and it turned out to have strong
contrasts, this is exactly the effect we're trying to achive.
Weird Effects
You can put tissue paper behind the front face of the pumpkin, tacking it on with
toothpicks to hold it in place. This creates a colored filter. Using different colors for
different areas products a nice effect (red eyes, blue mouth, etc.).
Try wax paper. This crates a more blury effect.
Put tin foil on the rear wall of the pumpkin. This give a metalic effect. Becareful when using
tinfoil around an electric light. Be careful using tinfoil around a flame -- it gets hot.
Special Effects
You can light up your pumpkin with blinker bulbs.
You can light up your pumpkin with flicker bulbs.
You can use a black light in your pumpkin.
You can put reflectors on your pumpkin.
You can use LEDs to create mini lights on your pumpkin.
You can put a noise sensor in your pumpkin to light or make sounds when someone approaches.
You can put a speaker in your pumpkin and make it talk.
You can put a microphone in or near your pumpkin to listen to the trick-or-treaters.
You can use a flash bulb to create a startling effect.
You can use fireworks to really create a pyrotechnic effect.
You can use a strobe light to induce elapasy.
You can use a fog machine to induce asmetha.
Squinting Faces
For a real quick pumpkin carve, find a pumpkin that has a long stem.
Put the pumpkin on its side, and see where it settles. Stare at the pumpkin,
pretending the stem is a nose. The creases around the stem add character to
the pumpkin as if it is squinting.
Carve a mouth and eyes. Removing the skin and partially cutting exposes the
pumpkin meat, allowing for teeth and whites of eyes. Beans and colored hat
pins can be used for pupils.
Check out Play with your Pumpkins by Joost & Saxton Freyman, a Stewart, Tabori & Chang
publication. ISBN 1-55670-848-3
Walt's Pumpkin Carving Secrets: Making
Patterns
Observations About Patterns
Whatever you cut away will be illuminated. (Duh!)
Your pumpkin can have four tones of natural color.
• Black - where nothing was carved away.

• White/Yellow - where everything was carved away.
• Light orange - remove the skin and some of the pumpkin meat. This is how very detailed
lines are done.
• Dark orange - remove the pumpkin meat from the rear, leaving the skin intact.
Shape is typically more important than color; this means that you can obtain the best results with
a pumpkin of high contrast.
Your patterns will always be the negative of the image you're trying to produce.
Simple patterns consist of solid shapes, with the areas around them cut out. This is exactly like
how a shadow gets cast on the wall or even how something looks when there is a bright light
behind it. Imagine someone behind a shower curtain; if this particular excercise doesn't help you,
it's still fun to do.
More complex patterns consist of a back ground, which will be cut out, minus another pattern
that is in the foreground.
All pattern shapes must be connected to the edge of the pumpkin, or, obviously, they will be
disconnected and fall in the pumpkin.
To see where pieces should connect, squint at the pattern or redesign the pattern to show the
same image from a different perspective.
Great patterns use light (cut out areas) for the moon, stars, fire, smoke, house lights, and evil
looking eyes.
This areas of light can often convey the area in the negative space. Viewers will use Gestaultism
to imagine where connecting lines go.
Patterns make high use of negative space.
The use of perspective adds to the illusion and helps patterns leap out of the pumpkin.
Exageration of a pattern's focal length gives character to the design.
For very complex images, like faces, they must be done very contrasty to enhance attention to
areas of shape. Light areas should be cut out, dark areas should be left.
Casting Rear Projections

Patterns are also reverse left to right.
Patterns are smaller than front patterns.
Patterns are above the light source.
Making a Simple Pattern

Given a pumpkin and a simple square pattern on a piece of paper, cutting out the square in the
pumpkin would let light show through. This is the most basic way pumpkins are carved.
Cut this pattern out of this pumpkin and you'll see this.
Adding a Foreground
The square image can be considered a background. We can now add a circle in the forground.
Starting with this we can add this forground and you'll produce this resulting in this carving.
background pattern
Use a black and white image in Adobe Photoshop for the background and the foreground. Then
use Image/Calculations. Source 1 should be the background image. Source 2 should be the
foreground image. Select Invert for Source 2. Blending should be Add. And Result should be
New Document.
This new document will be a Multichannel document, so you'll need to select the resulting
document and goto Image/Mode/Grayscale to change the document type.
What's happening is that the background represents negative space that you will carve away. We
then take the inverse of the forground image, which shows what you don't want to cut away, and
we add that to the background. By adding, the pixels are summed, finding all the white areas
where you shouldn't cut the pumpkin away on your pattern.
Adding more foreground objects is as simple as performing this process over and over again.
However, we might want some foreground objects to be negative space as well, and to
complicate matters they might intersect with other negative spaces.
Using this image another foreground object is points are whited out so that no white
added piece floats in the middle of a black
piece.
Again the Calculations tool is used. The original image is Source 1. The new foreground object
is Source 2. Source 2 should have Invert checked, and Blending is now set to Difference. Result
should be set to New Document.
This takes the foreground object and does an exclusive-or on the original pattern. At points
where the the images change from positive space to negative, we have to make sure all positive-
space (uncut pumpkin) pieces are attached.
One this pattern is cleaned it looks like individual solid black and it results in this pumpkin
up pieces, with no white pieces in black carving.
Example from Clip Art

Starting with this ghost picture, we recognize that we'll only have
positive and negative space. We're going to work with this image
building a picture, and in the end, make a negative for our pattern.
The background will be uncut pumpkin, so we darken that.

Anywhere there's white will be where light will shine through.
(Note that when we make the pattern, the reverse will be true.)
Since we want the ghosts to be light, they can't have any facial
features "floating" in the light. For now we'll remove their faces and
come back to them later.
Ok, I just spent 20 minutes with the pencil tool coloring in areas. Here are the progressive steps
to prove it.
Remember, since in our picture, white represents candle
light, you can't have pieces floating in space. We use the
opportunity to color in areas by the flames. Look under
the handles, and you'll see the flame is all a cut out. We
leave a little bit of the cauldren shape showing. The
viewer's mind fills in the rest.
Now we attack the two dark spots in the flame. We

simply connect them to other dark spots that look right. If
we couldn't, we'd just erase them.
Too bad we can't keep the inside of the handles. Oh well,

but what we can do is make the two parts of the handle
distingished by making the uncut areas more prominent.
We do this above and below where the handle attaches.
Now we make the dark part of the opening connected to the

background. Well shaped narrow slits help define objects more
than absolute detail. We also use this time to make the edges
around the bubbles thicker, in the process deliberately
eliminating some of the bubbles.
Now it is time to clean up the ghosts. We can use
the background dots to divide the ghost into more
shapes, making the pumpkin stronger. Notice the
line gets thickened.
And boy did that look bad, although, technically,

it would work. Backing up to step five and trying
again. This time let's elminate the line.
We also filled in the hands that were in the

foreground, and made connection points bolder, to
hold the pumpkin together better.
All that's left are faces, if we want them. These will

have to connect to the sides of the ghosts' faces.
They'll do.
Now we invert the picture to show us
where to cut. It's a lot easier to trace
around a small amount of black
pieces than white. Plus we save toner
in our printers.
Now that things are inverted, a quick

double check is in order... are there
any white areas floating in a black
area? We can check by doing a black
flood fill in the white area. If the
whole image goes black, we're done.
You might want to save before doing
this.
Now it is just a matter of scaling this

to fit our pumpkin.
Download this Ghost Pattern
Halloween: Bat and Ghost Template © FamilyFun
Use this template to help create a festive Halloween decoration or craft. 1 of 2

Halloween: Bat and Ghost Template © FamilyFun
Use this template to help create a festive Halloween decoration or craft. 2 of 2

Halloween: Jack-o’-Lantern Template © FamilyFun
Use this template to help create a festive Halloween decoration or craft.

Halloween: Bat Pumpkin Carving Template Page 1 of 2
© FamilyFun
www.familyfun.com
Halloween: Pirate Pumpkin Carving Template Page 1 of 2
© FamilyFun
www.familyfun.com
Halloween: Spider Pumpkin Carving Template Page 1 of 2
© FamilyFun
www.familyfun.com
Halloween: Tiki Pumpkin Carving Template Page 1 of 2
© FamilyFun
www.familyfun.com
Halloween: Pumpkin Carving Template page 1 of 2
© FamilyFun
FamilyFun.com
Halloween: Pumpkin Carving Instructions page 2 of 2
Step 1: There are two ways to transfer your design onto the pumpkin. One is to copy it freehand
onto a clean, dry pumpkin with a water-based marker (mistakes can be easily corrected with a
paper towel). The other is to tape your pattern or template to the pumpkin, then score the design
into the skin by poking holes through the pattern with a nail or plastic poking tool (available in
some pumpkin-carving kits).
Step 2: The black portion of the image is the part of the pumpkin that you’ll be cutting out and
removing. Carve by starting at the center of your design and working outward (this avoids
putting pressure on areas already carved). Begin with the innermost and smallest. As each shape
loosens up, gently push it out of the pumpkin with a finger or a dull pencil point (a good job for
small kids). Larger shapes, such as gap-toothed grins, may have to be removed in pieces.
Step 3: You can create dramatic effects by letting candlelight through the pumpkin in varying
intensity.
For a shaded effect, don't cut all the way through the pumpkin. Instead, make a shallow,
angled (or V-shaped) cut (1/8 to 1/2 inch, depending on the thickness of the pumpkin wall),
then peel away the outer flesh with a knife tip, spoon or vegetable peeler. You also can use deep,
angled cuts to remove larger pieces, so that the light reflects off the walls of the hole.
Lastly, put your jack-o'-lantern in a place of honor (away from flammables) and remember to
blow out all candles before you go to sleep.
© FamilyFun
FamilyFun.com
© FamilyFun
FamilyFun.com
© FamilyFun
FamilyFun.com
Level 2
Intermediate
© 2009
pumpkinglow.com
Abrams A1 Tank
Level 3
Advanced
pattern
created by
USU Aggie Bull

Level 3
Advanced
pattern
created by
Angel
pumpkinglow.com Do not cut all the way thru on hatched areas
Level 2
Intermediate
© 2009
pumpkinglow.com One Small Step for Man

Level 2
Intermediate
pattern
created by
Bat
Level 3
Advanced
© 2006
pumpkinglow.com Summer Beach

Level 3
Advanced
pattern
created by
Beorn the Berserker

Level 3
Advanced
pattern
created by
Bilbo Baggins
Level 2
Intermediate
pattern
created by
Bride and Groom

Level 3
Advanced
pattern
created by
Britney Spears
Level 3
Advanced
pattern
created by
Budweiser Frogs
Level 1
Easy
pattern
created by
pumpkinglow.com Bull Rider

©2001 Hewlett-Packard Co. All rights reserved.
©2001 Hewlett-Packard Co. All rights reserved.
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Tape the template
onto your pumpkin.
2. Trace the design by
using an awl or pen
to poke small holes
along the edges of
the shapes.
3. Cut along the edges
of the shapes with a
carving tool.
INSTRUCTIONS
onto your pumpkin.
using an awl or pen
to poke small holes
along the edges of
the shapes.
carving tool.
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Tape the template onto your pumpkin.

2. Trace the design by using an awl or pen to poke small holes along
the edges of the shapes.
3. Cut along the edges of the shapes with a carving tool.
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Tape the template onto your pumpkin.

2. Trace the design by using an awl or pen to poke small holes along
the edges of the shapes.
3. Cut along the edges of the shapes with a carving tool.
INSTRUCTIONS
onto your pumpkin.
using an awl or pen
to poke small holes
along the edges of
the shapes.
carving tool.
INSTRUCTIONS
onto your pumpkin.
using an awl or pen
to poke small holes
along the edges of
the shapes.
carving tool.
INSTRUCTIONS
onto your pumpkin.
using an awl or pen
to poke small holes
along the edges of
the shapes.
carving tool.
INSTRUCTIONS
onto your pumpkin.
using an awl or pen
to poke small holes
along the edges of
the shapes.
carving tool.
Level 3
Advanced
pattern
created by
California Raisin
Level 2
Intermediate
pattern
created by
pumpkinglow.com Captain Crunch

Level 3
Advanced
pattern
created by
Carpenters
Level 3
Advanced
pattern
created by
Carrie Underwood
1. Trace the entire design on to your pumpkin.
2. Have a parent or grown-up carve out the white sections.
© FamilyFun.com
Level 2
Intermediate
© 2007
pumpkinglow.com Medieval Castle

Cat Pattern Template
© FamilyFun
1 of 2
c FamilyFun.com
2 of 2
Step 1: To make a lid, draw a circle or a hexagon at least 5 inches in diameter around the
pumpkin's stem. Cut out the lid at an angle (so that the outside edge is larger than the
inside) to keep it from slipping inside. For a carving tool, we recommend a pumpkin saw.
Those using knives should carve gently and steadily. (Tip: Don't slide the knife all the way
out of the pumpkin.)
Step 2: When the lid is free, scrape it clean of seeds and pulp with a large metal spoon or
an ice-cream scoop. Instead of removing the top, you may choose to remove a section from
the bottom or side of the pumpkin. (This works well for an unstable or small pumpkin, or for
certain designs.)
Step 3: Scrape until you've had enough or until the wall is 1 to 1 1/2 inches thick (stop
before you compromise the strength of the walls).
Step 4: At the base, flatten a spot for the candle (again, don't make it too thin, or the
bottom will rot).
Step 5: There are two ways to transfer your design onto the pumpkin. One is to copy it
freehand onto a clean, dry pumpkin with a water-based marker (mistakes can be easily
corrected with a paper towel). The other is to tape your pattern or template to the pump-
kin, then score the design into the skin by poking holes through the pattern with a nail or
plastic poking tool (available in some pumpkin-carving kits).
Step 6: Carve by starting at the center of your design and work outward (this avoids put-
ting pressure on areas already carved). Begin with the innermost and smallest features --
eyes before eyebrows, for instance -- and try to carve the inside lines of each feature
before the outside lines. Be gentle: If you're using a knife, run it over each line a few
times, rather than pushing all the way through. Don't cut all the way to the end of a line on
the first cut. As each shape loosens up, gently push it out of the pumpkin with a finger or a
dull pencil point (a good job for small kids). Larger shapes, such as gap-toothed grins, may
have to be removed in pieces.
Step 7: You can create dramatic effects by letting candlelight through the pumpkin in
varying intensity. For a shaded effect, don't cut all the way through the pumpkin. Instead,
make a shallow, angled (or V-shaped) cut (1/8 to 1/2 inch, depending on the thickness of
the pumpkin wall), then peel away the outer flesh with a knife tip, spoon or vegetable
peeler. You also can use deep, angled cuts to remove larger pieces, so that the light
reflects off the walls of the hole.
Step 8: Place a candle inside your pumpkin (votives are more stable than tapers). Light the
candle, put on the lid and turn out the lights. If the candle doesn't stay lit, increase the air
supply either by enlarging some of the features or by carving a vent on the back of the lid.
Lastly, put your jack-o'-lantern in a place of honor (away from flammables) and remember
to blow out all candles before you go to sleep.
c FamilyFun.com
Level 3
Advanced
pattern
created by
Celine Dion
Level 1
Easy
pattern
created by
Chipmunk
Level 3
Advanced
pattern
created by
Chuck E Cheese
Level 1
Easy
pattern
created by
pumpkinglow.com Coat of Arms

Level 3
Advanced
pattern
created by
Coke Polar Bear
Level 1
Easy
pattern
created by
Deer
Level 2
Intermediate
pattern
created by
Dog
Do not cut all the way thru on hatched areas
Level 3
Advanced
pattern
created by
Dragon
Level 2
Intermediate
pattern
created by
pumpkinglow.com Dragon Head

Level 3
Advanced
© 2009
pumpkinglow.com American Eagle

Level 2
Intermediate
pattern
created by
Easter Bunny
Level 1
Easy
pattern
created by
Fairy
Level 3
Advanced
pattern
created by
Faith Hill
Level 2
Intermediate
pattern
created by
Fall
Level 2
Intermediate
© 2006
pumpkinglow.com Father & Son

Level 3
Advanced
pattern
created by
Antoine “Fats” Domion
Flack Jack
MASTERY LEVEL:
©2008 Signature Brands, LLC.
All Rights Reserved easy challenging
Level 1
Easy
© 2009
pumpkinglow.com American Flag

Level 1
Easy
pattern
created by
Horn of Plenty
Level 2
Intermediate
pattern
created by
Gandolf the Wizard

Level 3
Advanced
pattern
created by
Geico Gecko
Level 3
Advanced
© 2009
George Washington
Ghost Pattern Template
© FamilyFun
Level 3
Advanced
© 2009
Giraffe
© FamilyFun.com
Level 3
Advanced
pattern
created by
pumpkinglow.com Golden Dragon

Level 1
Easy
pattern
created by
Golf
Level 3
Advanced
pattern
created by
Gollum with Fish

Goofy Pumpkin: Template
© Disney Page 1 of 2
Grim Creeper
MASTERY LEVEL:
Level 1
Easy
pattern
created by
Horse
Level 3
Advanced
© 2006
pumpkinglow.com Humvee
Ichabod’s Fate
MASTERY LEVEL:
Level 2
Intermediate
pattern
created by
Dr Jeckle & Mr. Hyde

Level 2
Intermediate
pattern
created by
pumpkinglow.com Keebler Elf

Level 1
Easy
pattern
created by
pumpkinglow.com Knight
Level 3
Advanced
© 2007
pumpkinglow.com Knight on Horseback

Level 2
Intermediate
© 2007
pumpkinglow.com Knight on Horseback

Level 3
Advanced
© 2009
pumpkinglow.com Koala Bear

Level 2
Intermediate
pattern
created by
pumpkinglow.com Oh Yea - Kool Aid

Level 1
Easy
© 2009
pumpkinglow.com Liberty Bell

Level 2
Intermediate
pattern
created by
Lincoln Memorial
Level 2
Intermediate
pattern
created by
Lion
Level 2
Advanced
pattern
created by
Lucky Charms Leprechaun
Level 3
Advanced
pattern
created by
Theatre Mask
Level 3
Advanced
pattern
created by
pumpkinglow.com Matag Repairman

Level 2
Intermediate
© 2007
pumpkinglow.com Medieval Maiden

Level 2
Intermediate
pattern
created by
pumpkinglow.com Michael Jackson

Mickey Mouse Pumpkin: Template
Minnie Mouse Pumpkin: Template
Level 3
Advanced
pattern
created by
M&Ms
Level 1
Easy
© 2006
pumpkinglow.com “Mom” Tattoo

Good Bite Moon
MASTERY LEVEL:
Level 2
Intermediate
© 2009
pumpkinglow.com Mt. Rushmore

Level 2
Intermediate
pattern
created by
pumpkinglow.com Avoid the Noid

© FamilyFun.com
Level 2
Intermediate
© 2009
pumpkinglow.com Panther
Level 2
Intermediate
pattern
created by
Patriot
Level 2
Intermediate
pattern
created by
Pilgrims
Level 3
Advanced
pattern
created by
Pizza Hut Logo
Winnie the Pooh Pumpkin: Template
© FamilyFun.com
Level 1
Easy
pattern
created by
Sheppard
Level 1
Easy
Cat on a
Yellow Pillow
pattern
From the Painting by
created by
Franz Marc
Level 3
Advanced
pattern
created by
Smaug
Princess Snow White Pumpkin: Template
Level 1
Easy
© 2006
pumpkinglow.com Snowman
Online Pumpkin Carving Patterns
Halloween Pumpkin Carving

Free Patterns
Subscribe to SpookMaster and you can immediately get:

• Hundreds of the web’s best pumpkin carving patterns
• Complete set of letters and numbers to personalize your pumpkin
• Mix n’ Match Patterns – create your own pattern with different jack-o-lantern
facial features. Thousands of different patterns are possible!
• Access to all designs on our website at any time (through January of next year)
– access all patterns as often as you like
• Ability to immediately download all patterns to your computer to save forever
and use whenever you like
Check out all the patterns available to subscribers.

Subscribing is easy and it’s fun.
www.spookmaster.com
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Sharpie
Online Pumpkin Carving Patterns Carving Difficulty: Moderate
Copyright © 2002, SpookMaster.com, TruckBucks LLC, All Rights Reserved www.spookmaster.com

Damsel in Distress
Online Pumpkin Carving Patterns Carving Difficulty: Challenging

NIGHT WATCHMAN
Online Pumpkin Carving Patterns Carving Difficulty: Easy

Bewitching Hour
Online Pumpkin Carving Patterns Carving Difficulty: Moderate

Going Batty
Online Pumpkin Carving Patterns Carving Difficulty: Easy

Level 1
Easy
pattern
created by
pumpkinglow.com
Star of David
Level 2
Intermediate
© 2006
pumpkinglow.com Lady Liberty

Level 1
Easy
pattern
created by
pumpkinglow.com Leprechaun
Level 3
Advanced
Bilbo Writing
pattern
created by
“There and Back Again”

Level 2
Intermediate
pattern
created by
Tiger
Tigger Pumpkin: Template
Level 3
Advanced
pattern
created by
Tiger Baring Teeth

Level 3
Advanced
pattern
created by
Tiger Running
Level 1
Easy
pattern
created by
Turkey
Level 3
Advanced
pattern
created by
Bilbo and Gandolf
at Bilbo’s Unexpected Party
Level 2
Intermediate
© 2007
pumpkinglow.com Unicorn
Level 2
Intermediate
pattern
created by
George Washington
in prayer at Valley Forge
Level 3
Advanced
© 2006
Dragon
Level 1
Easy
pattern
created by
Bells
Level 2
Intermediate
pattern
created by
Wedding Cake
Level 3
Advanced
pattern
created by
Where the Wild Things Are

Level 2
Intermediate
pattern
created by
Wild Thing
from “Where the Wild Things Are”
Level 2
Intermediate
pattern
created by
pumpkinglow.com Wizard
Level 2
Intermediate
pattern
created by
pumpkinglow.com Wizard with Staff

Level 2
Intermediate
pattern
created by
Wolf in the snow

Level 3
Advanced
pattern
created by
Wolf
Level 2
Intermediate
pattern
created by
pumpkinglow.com
Yin Yang
Level 2
Intermediate
pattern
created by
Yin Yang
Level 1
Easy
© 2009
pumpkinglow.com Zebra

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A Pumpkin Carving Primer

Jack-'o-Lantern Designs from FamilyFun

For a brief few days this October, jack-o'-lanterns will

SCRAPE OUT THE INSIDE

TRANSFER THE PATTERN

EXPERIMENT WITH SHADING

TEST-DRIVE YOUR PUMPKIN

• Never hold the knife in a stabbing position.

• Prepare your pumpkin by:

• Print out the pattern.

• Trim off excess paper.

• Tape or use pins to affix the pattern to

• Remove the paper from the pumpkin.

• Push a nail through the pumpkin skin where you want to

• Using your nail hole as a starting point, cut the design

When making curves, just slightly turn the saw. When

• To remove pieces, push them out from the inside. For

Otherwise keep reading. Be sure to take necessary safety precautions.

How The Masses Do It

Secrets to Better Pumpkins

Pumpkins that are flat and don't roll work best.

Saws of differing length and teeth spacing determine how

The width of a drill determines the size of the hole it

Scrapers are used to make the back wall of the pumpkin

Pokers are used to transfer patterns onto the pumpkin as

You can also obtain watermellon carving kits, the tools

The most important tool is the mini hand held saw.

Patterns make high use of negative space.

Rear Projection Patterns

Lifting Patterns of the Net

Making Original Patterns

Use the poker to mark where larger holes should be drilled.

Three tips to help you get going:

1. Saw slowly and gently

Leave plenty of connective tissue. Cut the small holes first.

Preserving and Firming Up a Pumpkin

Lighting the Pumpkin

Photographing the Pumpkin

Try wax paper. This crates a more blury effect.

You can light up your pumpkin with flicker bulbs.

You can use a black light in your pumpkin.

You can put reflectors on your pumpkin.

You can use LEDs to create mini lights on your pumpkin.

You can put a speaker in your pumpkin and make it talk.

You can use a flash bulb to create a startling effect.

You can use fireworks to really create a pyrotechnic effect.

You can use a strobe light to induce elapasy.

You can use a fog machine to induce asmetha.

Your pumpkin can have four tones of natural color.

• Black - where nothing was carved away.

Patterns make high use of negative space.

Casting Rear Projections

Patterns are smaller than front patterns.

Patterns are above the light source.

Making a Simple Pattern

Example from Clip Art

The background will be uncut pumpkin, so we darken that.

Now we attack the two dark spots in the flame. We

Too bad we can't keep the inside of the handles. Oh well,

Now we make the dark part of the opening connected to the

And boy did that look bad, although, technically,

We also filled in the hands that were in the

All that's left are faces, if we want them. These will

Now that things are inverted, a quick