Some important notes about textiles

Compiled By: M. Rezaul Karim Tutul

Some important notes about textiles


To make woven fabrics, yarns are?
Interlaced
Selvage
Finished edge of a woven fabric
Woven fabrics stretch most in which direction?
Bias
When a yarn passes over 2 or more adjacent yarns, it is referred to as?
Float
Twill lines are?
Diagonal
In woven fabric, lengthwise are called______, and width wise yarns are called_________
Warp yarns, weft or filling or pick yarns
Name 5 plain weave fabrics
Muslin, cotton, shantung, voile, crash
Name 5 twill weave fabrics
Denim, chino, serge, tweed, drill
What fabric is considered the strongest fabric? and why?
Satin, because it can be made with the greatest number of yarns
How is the surface of velvet and terry cloth produce?
Hair like or furlike surface
Name 3 woven designs created by long and short floats?
Dobby pattern, Jacquard pattern, Clip spot pattern
Name 3 fabrics where the face is different than the back side of the fabric?
Satin, Sateen, Shaker
Other than dyeing or printing, name 3 ways a woven fabric with a plain weave can be given a surface
interest
Ribbed plain weave, broken-twill weave, basket weave
Fabrics can be woven with special heads to create a series of long and short floats that form design.
What are 2 of these special weaves called?
Jacquard weave and Dobby
In knitting..
What are course?
Rows of stitches. horizontal rows
In knitting..
What are wales?
Columns of stitches in fabrics. vertical rows
What are the 2 systems used to create knit fabrics?
- Circular
- Flat
A t-shirt that does not have any side seams would have been knit on what type of machine?
Looping machine
What is the basic different of yarn arrangement between knit and woven fabric?
-In a knit fabric the yarn is arranged in a series of interlocking loops. The yarn is looped on to the needle.
-Woven fabrics are made from a mesh of threads rather than interlocking loops. A loom contains warp threads.
Corduroy is an example of an intricate pile knit?
False
Jersey fabrics are the same on both sides?
False
A course in a knit fabric is a horizontal row of stitches?
Yes
Tricot fabrics maybe recognized by zigzag slightly diagonal series of yarns on one side
True
Most T-shirts are made from knit jersey?
True
The knitted fabric most used in lingerie is
Tricot
Raschel knitting can be used to make?


Some important notes about textiles
Compiled By: M. Rezaul Karim Tutul
Lace and open fabrics
Gauge
Refers to the needles per measured length in the knitting machine
Intarsia
Knitted structure characterized by areas of solid colors within the fabric
Interloping
Loops are formed and then new loops are drawn through those previously formed
In the textile industry color can be added at various stage in apparel development. list 4?
Stock dyeing, yarn dyeing, piece dyeing and solution dyeing
Difference between stock dyeing and solotuin dyeing?
Stock dyeing: refers to putting loose unspun fibers onto a large vats containing the dye bath.
Solution dyeing: the coloring agent is added to the spinning solution of the manufactured fiber before it is
extruded from a spinneret.
How is the process of pigment coloring different from aqueous dyeing when used to color fabrics ?
Pigment unlike dyes are insoluble in water and do not unite or combine in anyway with textile fiber
Difference between cross dyeing and union dyeing?
Union dyeing: the same as cross dyeing except that instead of multicolored effects, one solid color is produced.
Least expensive method of dyeing?
Piece dyeing
To make last minute colour decisions when the dyeing utilized is?
Garment dyeing
Printing technical:
-the fabric is dyed and colour is removed in the form of the design?
Discharge print
Printing technical:
-the fabric is coated with wax in the form of a design and then dyed?
Resist print
Printing technical:
-the design is obtained by burning away part of the fabric?
Heat transfer
Printing technical:
-the design is printed onto a white fabric?
Direct print
What is print registration?
Is when all colours of the pigment have been property applied?
Solution dyed colours are not possible with?
Cotton
Heather effect in a 100% woolen fabric is accomplished by?
Stock dyeing
Which class of coloring can be used on any fiber?
Pigment
The dye method to be used to produce a green and white plaid pattern in 100% cotton broadcloth is ?
Yarn dyeing
A fabric that changes color when subjected to different lighting conditions has a problem called?
Metamerism
Pigment applications on fabrics?
-lose color when laundered
-are economical
-are lightfast
A direct print is one in which?
The design
in a print pattern, when colors overlap when they should be separate, this is called?
Off-register.
An overprint is a print where?
The design is printed onto a previous dyed fabric.
What is textile finishing?
Is any process that is done to a fiber, yarn or fabric to change the appearance, the hand, or the performance
Classifications of finishes?
a. Permanent
b. Durable


Some important notes about textiles
Compiled By: M. Rezaul Karim Tutul
c. Semi-durable
d. Temporary
Finishes are also categorized as?
Chemical finishes(wet finishing) and mechanical finishes(dry finishing)
Chemical finishes?
Are usually applied to fabric by padding followed by curing or drying.
Mechanical finishes?
Usually involve specific physical treatment to a fabric surface to cause a change in fabric appearance.
1. Permanent finishes
Usually involve a chemical change in fibre structure and do not change or alter throughout the life of a fabric.
ex: mercerization
2. Durable Finish
May last the life of the product, but its effectiveness diminishes with use or age. ex: wrinkle resistance
3. Semidurable finishes
Last through several launderings or dry cleanings and many are renewable in home laundering or dry cleaning
4.Temporary finishes
Are removed or substantially diminished the first time an article is laundered or dry cleaned. ex: simple
calendering
Pretreatment processes
Consist of cleaning operations to rid the fabric of all soil and additives that have accumulated during weaving
or knitting process.
Greige goods
Fabrics, regardless of color, that have been produced but have received no wet- or dry-finishing operations.
Finishing
Final processing before the fabric is cut into apparel or made into articles-makes suitable for an end use
Pretreatment Processes
Allows product to accept color; boil off, scouring, solvent, singeing, bleaching
Asethetic Finishes
Change the appearance,drapability, and hand of fabrics
Boil off
In cotton, cotton-blend, silk, and manufactured-fibre fabrics-process for cleaning
Scouring
In woolens and worsteds-process for cleaning
Desizing
Sizing or starch added to warp yarns during slashing are removed
Sizing
Starching
What are the steps of fabric preparation?
-Handling
-Singeing
-Desizing
-Cleaning
-Biopolishing
-Scouring
Singeing
Burns any fibre ends projecting from the surface of the fabric
Cleaning
Washing, degumming, boiling-off, scouring
Biopolishing
Removes surface fuzz from spun yarns or cellulose or cellulose blends
Scouring
Removal of soil or foreign matter from fabric before finishing or dyeing
What are the 2 types of whitening?
-Bleaching
-Use of optical brighteners
Types of handling:
-Open width finishing
-Rope or tubular finishing
What are the coloration processes?


Some important notes about textiles
Compiled By: M. Rezaul Karim Tutul
-Dyeing
-Printing
What do bleaches do?
required to obtain pure whites be natural fibres (cotton/wool/silk/linen) are RARELY PURE WHITE-normally
yellow
1. Functional finishes
are finishes that improve the performance properties of fabrics. They usually relate to comfort, safety or health.
2.antimicrobial finishes
Involve chemical agents that inhibit the growth of bacteria. The result is a reduction or even preventioin of
odor-causing germs as weel as the elimniation of fungi, such as mold and mildew that geed on cellulosic fibres,
producing stains, odours and weakened fabric.
3. Antistatic Finishes
Involve chemical substances applied as wet finishes for purpose of reducing or eliminating static. these
chemicals absorb small amount of moisture from atmosphere, thus reducing dryness of fabric that causes static
condition.
Antistatic fabrics
used in carpeting apparel, operating room gowns, drapes, clean-air suits, and barriers around electronic
equipment.
4. Crease-Resistant Finishes
cotton, rayon, flax
CRF, are applied to fabrics for the purpose of reducing annoying and unsightly wrinkling in apparel such as
blouses, shirts, pants and dresses. CRF are most often applied to fabrics made form cotton, rayon, and flax. that
are susceptible to wrinkling.
5. Durable press & wrinkle resistance
resist/shed wrinkles by heat-setting of thermoplastic fibbers and by resin treatment and curing in fabrics of
cellulosic-polyester blends and of 100 percent cellulosic fibers
Aesthetic finishes
a. Calendaring: simple, glazed, embossed, cire, moir
b. Mercerization and fulling
c. Napping and sueding
d. Plisse
e. Shearing
f. Softening and stiffening (cotton, linen)
g. Special "washes": stone, acid, cellulose
Functional finishes:
a. Antimicrobial, mothproofing
b. Antistatic
c. CFR, Durable press. Resin treatment
d. Flame resistant
e. Shrinkage control
f. Soil-release
g. Water repellenats and waterproofing
Resins
are the chemical group applied as wet finishes and used in many of the finishes
Resins
are colorless and are applied to fabrics in liquid form,usually on a padder, then dried and finally treated at high
temperature, causing the resin to react chemically with the cellulosic component of the fabrics.
Curing
resins treatment, can be performed at lower temperatures but this requires longer exposure time
6.Resins treatment and curing of fabrics referred to previously are done by one of 2 process?
precuring or postcuring
Precuring
Most frequenty used resin treatment process and invloves treaing and curing fabric at textile finishing plant.
Precured fabrics are?
blends of celluosic fibers and polyester
precuring equipment ?
Hot-head pressers
Hot-head pressers
when items are pressed with high-temeparture pressing equipment. It reaches temperatures that heat-set the
polyester component of the fabric.


Some important notes about textiles
Compiled By: M. Rezaul Karim Tutul
Postcuring
Involves curing the resin on an already sewn and completed garment
which fabrics are used for postcuring?
always blends of celluosic and polyester.
7. Flame resistant finishes
are applied as wet finishes and depending on the chemical used are either dried or cured on the fabirc.
8. Mothproof finishes
Temporary sprays or finishes that can be applied so that the fabrics will not be attacked.
fabrics for Mothproof finishes?
wool or other animal fiber
9. Shrinkage control finishes? (Residual shrinkage)
Even after fabrics have been properly preshrunk in finishing, a small amount of shrinkage potential remains.
name 2 major kinds of fabric shrinkage?
Relaxtion shrinkage
Progressive shrinkage
Relaxation shrinkage
occurs because the fibers and yarns are under considerable tension when fabrics are made.
Progressive shrinkage
occurs when a fabric is laundered. continues with each laundering.
shrinkage control methods
-compressive shrinkage (relaxation shrinkage method)
-Heat-set(relaxation shrinkage method)
-Sponging (relaxation shrinkage method)
-Resin treatment (relaxation shrinkage method)
-Chlorination (progressive shrinkage method)
-Special application resins (progressive shrinkage method)
compressive shrinkage (relaxation shrinkage method)
for woven fabric of cotton, high wet modulus rayon, linen and tubular-knit cotton fabrics
Heat-set (relaxation shrinkage method)
for fabrics from thermoplastic fibers : nylon, polyester, acrylic
Sponging (relaxation shrinkage method)
for fabrics made from wool (woolens and worsteds )
Resin treatment (relaxation shrinkage method)
rayon and cotton fabrics
Chlorination (progressive shrinkage method)
Wool fabrics
Special application resins (progressive shrinkage method)
wool fabrics
10. Soil release finishes
Chemical finishes are chemical finishes that permit relatively easy removal of soils with ordinary laundering.
Oleophilic
Substances that have an attraction for oil
11. Water Repellents
Hydrophobic chemicals forming hydrophobic films on fiber, do not fill interstices
Water-Repellent-Finished Fabrics
Fabric is immersed in aqueous solution containing a reactant that alters structure of fibre and is completely
removed ex. Mercerization ex vinyle, plastic fabric
Water Repellents
1-nondurable repellents
2-Durable repellents
c-waterproof-coated fabrics
what is the difference between Water Repellents fabrics and waterproof-coated fabrics?
-Water Repellents fabrics do not absorb
-waterproof-coated fabrics, unlike Water Repellents fabrics is completely moisture-proofed.
Nonaqueous finishing?
Foam-chemical finishing
Foam-chemical finishing
Making a concentrated solution of finishing chemical using a reduced quantity of water & addition of a
foaming chemical.
Nondurable repellents


Some important notes about textiles
Compiled By: M. Rezaul Karim Tutul
low in cost, easily applied and in general provide excellent water resistance.
final fabric drying ?
Textile wet processing
Textile wet processing
Including dyeing, printing and finally finishing,utilize large quantities of water.
Plasma processing
Is a state of matter distinct from solids, liquids and gases.
Nanotechnology
Science and technology of manipulating molecular structures.
Bias fabric
Filling of yarns are straight but not at right angles to warp. Improper alignment on enter fram. (plaids, checks)
Bowed fabric
Filling yarns curve in the fabric and do not go straight across. Improper tenanted-frame procedures.
Boardy fabric
Fabric that is too stiff, firm and nondrapable compared to the standard or referenced sample.
Limp Fabric
It is too soft and does not have popper body compare to the standard or referenced sampel.
Off-grain fabric
Bias fabric
Tender goods
Weakened fabric that results form excessive or improper application of chemical finishes.
Uneven finish
Fabric does not have the same character or degree of finish throughout.
Knitting
Refers to the production of fabric by interlooping yarns.
Felt
Fancy compact matted woolen material. Derived from anglo-saxon word meaning "to filer". Usually made of
wool or fur often mixed with natural or synthetic fibers.
Woven fabrics
Basic weaves weaves
pile weaves
leno weaves
Woven fabrics
Are made by interlacing 2 sets of yarns at right angles to each other.
Woven fabric count
# of warp and filling yarns per square inch
Knit fabric count
# Of course and wale per inch
Woven fabric shrinkage
Will increase the # of yarns per inch
Non-woven fabrics
Are defined as a textile structure produced by bonding or interlocking of fibers or both accomplished by
mechanical, chemical, thermal or solvent means and combinations thereof.
Dyes (called conventional or aqueous dyeing)
The process involved the use of chemical dyes called dyestuffs and treatment of textile material in aqueous
Affinity
When a particular dye is capable of combining with a fiber and can impart color to it
Pigment
Microscopic sized insoluble colored particles made to adhere to a fabric
Fabrics for Stock and top dyeing?
Cheviot covert, melton tweed
Fabrics for Yarn dyeing
Chambray, gingham, brocade, jacquard knits
Fabrics for piece dyeing
Batiste, broadcloth, challis, corduroy, satin
Fabrics for garment dyeing
Hosiery,pantyhose,sweaters T-shirts