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The Hamster

The Hamster

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Issue 03 September 2013

1
Issue 03 September 2013
2

…to a Hamsterrific third issue!

A very good squeak to you all! Welcome to the third issue of The Hamster Mag.

In this issue we’re all about happy and healthy Hams! We’ll be giving you tips and tricks to keep your hamster
cool during the cruel summer months, and showing you how to give you Ham a health check! Two of our
readers are going to give you the ins and outs of managing Diabetes and Pyometra.

Boo the hamster is back showing us his world, The Hamster diaries this issue are hosted by the adorable Percy
Pocket. And we can’t forget our creative corner or our reviews and recommendations section! And our featured
article by Kiah Tulloch, is all about the European Hamster. If you ever wanted to know what Hamsters get up to
in their natural environment, this is the issue for you!

This issue also marks the start of our Hamster Gallery! Every issue we’ll be accepting images submissions that fit
the current issues theme and this issue our gallery is the “Nom nom” gallery! Hamsters nibbling on tasty food!
Empty your cheek pouches chaps; we’ve got a big main course!





Issue 03 September 2013
3


The World According to Boo
Our favourite neighbourhood blogger, Boo is back!
This issue Boo talks about how Hamsters can be
suitable pets for everyone! No age limits here!
On page 04

Cool Cool Summer
Summer, the time for sunbathing and ice creams, can
be more difficult for our little furry friends! Worry not,
Laura’s here to give you some tips and trick to keeping
your Ham chilled out! On page 06

Ask the Expert!
Our resident Hamster expert personally answers the
queries you sent into us!
On page 10

Hamster Health Check
We all have a habit of worrying about our pets from
time to time, so Rhonda’s here this issue to tell us all
how to give your Hamster a basic check up! Take
notes! On page 11

The Hamster Diaries
This issue we’re with Percy pocket, a delightful, old
albino Ham, who wants to show us his masterful skills
in cleaning up food, and playing the invisible flute!
On page 15

Reviews and Recommendations
We’ve all had that though when shopping once; “Is this
the best I can find?” Look no further! In this section we
review and recommend the best bits for your Ham.
On page 20

Featured Article: The European Hamster
Have you ever wondered what your Ham would be like
in its natural environment? Kiah Tulloch has been
swamped in research in order to deliver this issue’s
featured article on the wild European Hamster!
On page 22



Hamster-Safe Foods
Expanding on Knotty’s article from issue 1,
Stephanie Reesor chats to us about what snacks
and treat are best for your little friend!
On page 26

Health Corner: Pyometra
After her experiences with Pyometra and her
hamster Citrus, Susie’s compiled this informative
and reassuring article on the condition that only
affects female hamsters. On page 29

The Creative Corner
Stories, poems, artwork, comics and other
creative and crafty tidbits! You made it, so now
we show it off! On page 33

Diabetes
Common but rarely discussed, diabetes is said to
affect a large majority of store-bought Hamsters.
To help us out, Charlie B tells us the story behind
her happy little chappy, Alfie. On page 34

The Hamster Gallery
Issue 3 sees the start of our Hamster Gallery!
Brush those whiskers, ruffle that fur and strike a
pose Hams! Our theme this issue is “Hamster
Noms!” On page 36

Submissions?
Do you want to write an article or have a
photograph of your Hamster featured in The
Hamster Mag? Find out how here! On page 39

Introducing…
This is where can find details on The Hamster Mag
staff and contributors. We offer hamster-sized
cookies to all our contributors! On page 41
Issue 03 September 2013
4


Hello Slaves, Boo here, your favourite neighbourhood blogger.

So last month I talked to all of you about the cool things you can put into your hamster’s homes, and I certainly
hoped you listened, because… Well, it’s just cool stuff.

Today though, I was having a discussion
with Stephanie, my slave, and we were
discussing how overlooked hamsters can be
as pets for adults.

This made me want to write a blog about
the countless reasons hamsters are the
perfect pets for any age, and not just for
your child’s first pet (which can be a total
disaster).

Stephanie got her first hamster when she
was nineteen, while she was living away
from home at university. Sheldon was a
black hamster, and apparently, he was the
best decision she had ever made (because he eventually lead her to me, clearly!)

Anyways, it was through having him, myself, and my sisters that she realized how perfectly suited hamsters are
for adults.

For starters, we are mostly nocturnal, which means
we like to sleep during the day and are more active
at night. While this can stink for little kids, many
adults either go to school or work all day, and are
up fairly late at night. So are we! This means we are
less likely to notice your absence when you’re out,
and we’ll be waking up when your potential
free(er) time begins! How convenient!

Secondly, we are fairly easy to maintain. If you do
regular spot checks on us, you will not need to
clean our cages out completely very often, which is
good for us (we stress out less), and good for you,
because it saves you time and money!

Hamsters like me make it even easier because we only pee in one place so spot checks are a breeze!

You’re welcome.
Issue 03 September 2013
5

You can also make our habitats AWESOME.

Hamster habitats can be very cool looking and can add
some serious character to your room. This is one of
the countless reasons Stephanie likes tanks; because
she can decorate them with so many things and they
look very sophisticated.

Stephanie told me that the number one reason
hamsters make such great adult pets though, was
because of the psychological benefits she experienced
from Sheldon.

She was in a bad student housing situation, and I guess
Sheldon was sometimes all she had, and on the nights
her roommates were really tough to deal with, she would make each of them a little dish of snacks and they’d
watch a movie on her bed (apparently he used to sit with her for hours… What a patient ham.)

Since then, she’s told me that the habit of looking after us and always having someone awake in the middle of
the night has provided a sense of security that very little will ever trump. She says that when we all moved into
the bachelor apartment, my noises at night kept her from thinking that everything she heard was a monster
under her bed, since she knew it was me.

Sheldon, where everything got started
See? We’re awesome, and this is only the start of the list of reasons hamsters are awesome pets for adults. We
have so much character in a small package, that most people overlook us. But you won’t now, will you?

Until next time, be good to your hams, and to each other
Boo

Issue 03 September 2013
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As a Hamster owner, I’m always hearing about the importance of keeping your hamster the right temperatures;
too cold and they may display hibernation behaviours and actually hibernate unless you can act to stop it in
time. But what about summer?

All animals have mechanisms to lose heat – humans can take off clothes, dogs pant, lizards move to shaded
areas after basking, birds ruffle their feathers, some animals like cats can shed fur, and some animals – not
many – can sweat. Most Hamsters unfortunately have none of these mechanisms; they don’t sweat, or pant,
very few shed and go through coat-changes with seasons, and none of them can sweat. So what can they do?

Male hamsters – lucky them - can tuck in their testicles to retain heat, or un-tuck them to expel heat – you may
often see male hamsters venturing out of their nests with their testicles un-tucked as their nest has become
warm from them sleeping in it so long. All hamsters can move to cooler parts of their cages, but during the
middle of summer, moving from their nest to an open space in their cage - especially if it’s glass – won’t make all
that much difference to them.

Maintaining the temperatures in their cage-area during summer is just as important as it is during winter. So
here are a number of cheap tips and tricks to help keep your hams cool while we’re wandering around in
swimwear and consuming ice-related products!
During Summer Timi’s cage is on the floor in front of my
radiator – in between two windows!

It’s a good idea to think about where your
hamster’s cage is first of all. If you have a
cage that is primarily made of glass and sits in
a place where it may be exposed to direct
sunlight during the day, it may be a good idea
to move it if you can to a more shaded area
as glass cages can very quickly become
magnifying glasses for heat. If like me you
have a wire and plastic cage which is out of
the way of direct sunlight, then all you need
to do is try and regulate the temperature of
the area. Plastic and wire cages can be
moved out of direct sunlight, and as heat
rises they can even be placed on the floor as
long as they’re kept away from drafty areas – such as near doors or windows that tend to be open a lot. But if
you have a glass tank that you can’t move, worry not! There are still plenty of ways to help cool your ham down.

Cooling mats are a good investment if you live somewhere that always gets hot during summer. Alternatives to
cooling mats are aluminium houses, ice houses, or even ceramic and marble tiles. Cooling mats, aluminium
accessories and tiles can be placed inside the cage, either on a flat surface (i.e. on a shelf) or underneath the
substrate on the base to cool the cage from underneath. Small houses may be a good place for hams to sit just
when they get too hot, rather than having the cage permanently cooled. Cooling mats and houses can range
from £5 to £20 in price and can be bought from pet retailers that specialise in small animal stock. You can buy
tiles from any local DIY retailer and the price can vary.

Issue 03 September 2013
7
Another trick I have learned, is the glass jar trick. Timi,
while fond of burrowing, also seem to have a fondness
for solid surfaces like glass and plastic when he needs
to cool down, so I’ve taken to putting an old dip jar in
the freezer for 10 or so minutes and putting it in his
cage when he needs to cool down. He was a little
startled at first but now he seems to love it!

All ceramic or glass items – even the tiles you can use
in place of cooling mats – can be placed in the fridge or



freezer for a period of time to help cool your Ham more efficiently.
=3 I once had a friend who had six spare tiles and would rotate them
on her Ham’s shelf when she was at home to ensure there was
always something relatively cool in her Ham’s cage. But please check
for each individual item whether they are freezer-safe, and never
leave them in longer than absolutely necessary!

It should go without saying to ensure that your hamster always has
fresh water – it doesn’t matter whether your Ham’s water is
contained in a glass or plastic water bottle as the water can heat up
very quickly regardless, even if it’s not in direct sunlight. If you’re in
doubt, change their water every evening just before your hamster
usually wakes up, and that way they’ll have nice cool water waiting
for them.

You can put small ice cubes in your hams water to help keep it cool,
but I wouldn’t advise doing this repeatedly or putting too many ice
cubes in.

Giving them cool treats is also an option, but must be
done carefully. I tend to give Timi small pieces of
Strawberry or Cucumber – straight out of the fridge
and then washed in cold water – when it’s a bit warm.
Not only does he love them but they cools him down!
Carrot, and some fruits like apple and melon can all be
fridged to cool. Be careful with the amount you offer
and don’t give them more than one piece a week of
the more watery/soft fruit and veg, like cucumber and
melon. It’s always a good idea to squeeze off excess
water and air-dry the treat before giving it.

If your hamster cage is primarily plastic (a Habitrail or
Ferplast for example,) you’ll need to pay extra
attention to your hamster’s behaviour as the weather
gets hotter. Plastic cages are notorious for bad
circulation and your Ham may struggle to cool off. You
can always make a playpen with cool tiles underneath
to give them extra fresh air and cooling time outside of
their cage. But there are other tricks too.


Issue 03 September 2013
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While relocating your cage to a lower location is a good idea, be
mindful of any other pets and the location, i.e. near doors,
windows or anywhere it’s likely to get kicked or bashed is bad.
There are plenty of ways to get around your cage if you find you
can’t move it.

One trick I’ve seen used is to freeze a plastic bottle of water, and
lay it near the side of the cage. If you lay it against the side of the
cage where you Hamster is nesting, this will help them to stay cool
even when they’re sleeping! If you’re worried about it being too
cold – wrap the bottle up in a thin towel.

I’ve also heard recommendations to just adjust your air
conditioning and even put standing/desk fans near to cages.
But these are both bad ideas! Hamsters are unfortunately very prone to illnesses such as pneumonia, which is
why allowing them to hibernate can be problematic. Drafts are bad for hamsters, and air-regulation systems like
air conditioning and fans are in effect, drafts. Some AC systems can also harbour bacteria that’s bad for
everyone, even you! If you can, avoid adjusting your air conditioning unless it works in a way that doesn’t blow
cold air directly out, or simply ensure your Ham’s cage is nowhere near an AC vent.

One Hamster-friendly draft I can recommend is very simple – windows. Most people tend to keep windows wide
open during summer, and while keeping windows open mean you often have to deal with the added bonus of
insects, it’s a good idea to at least keep your windows open a crack – especially during the day and especially if
you hamster is in a room that gets the midday sun. I noticed that Timi seemed much more comfortable when I
started to keep my windows open just a little all the time, as my room gets the morning sunshine.

How can I tell if my Hamster is too hot?

 If your Hamster is male check his testicles – if they’re untucked and visible, it means they’re trying to
loose body heat, if they’re tucked in they’re trying to retain heat. But remember that monitoring your
hams testicles isn’t a foolproof guide as to whether they’re too hot or cold – they adjust their testicles a
lot but it can help you along with all the other signs.

 Increased water intake can be another sign that your hamster is being dehydrated a little by the heat,
however, this can also mean a number of other things illness-wise. So if your hamster begins to drink
excessively and there are other symptons, or you are worried for any reason about your ham’s health,
please take them to see a vet as soon as possible.

 General lethargy can also be a sign of overheating, but similar to increased water intake, this can also be
a sign of something else; lethargia in Hamsters is usually associated with infections or a dietry issue – my
Dwarf Milo had recurring eye infections, and he was always more lethargic when he had one, but a quick
trip the vet and one week of antibiotics fixed him right up! So once again, if you have any reason to
believe you hamster is not simply too hot, please take them to a vet as soon as you can – you can even
ask a friend, family member or your significant other to take them for you if you’re unable to for any
reason.
Issue 03 September 2013
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 Sleeping habits and positions are
often missed, because usually, we
don’t see our Hams – at least, I
certainly don’t! – when they’re
sleeping away in their nest. Timi is
usually buried under his log house
and several inches of carefresh that’s
so dense, he usually can’t hear me
calling for him. But if you are able to
see your Ham sleeping, check what
position they are sleeping in; if your
hamster is sleeping on its back, this is
a sign that it may be too warm.
Hamsters lose more heat from their
belly than from their back, so they

so they instinctively turn over while sleeping to lose heat more easily. Although like the other signs, this is
not a giveaway on its own. Hamsters will often get warm in their nests and it’s not uncommon or
something to be worried about. But if your hamster is displaying a few of the other signs, is sleeping
outside their nest or has adjusted their nest to be more open and they’re sleeping on their back, it may
be safe to assume they may be too warm.

 Although Dwarf hamsters come from colder climates and Syrian hamsters from warmer climates, neither
origin means that your hamster won’t struggle with the seasons or temperatures that come with those
seasons.

Hamsters have been domesticated for a long time and have lost a fair amount of their in-built behaviours
and traits as domestic pets, so it’s always a good idea to help your hamster out as much as you can,
whatever the weather!

Issue 03 September 2013
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Our secret Hamster expert answers the questions you send! If you’ve a question you can’t find the answer to, or
if everyone’s saying different things, worry not! Our hamster expert gives advice based on experience of what
has really worked for people, so you know you are getting the right information.

Q1. My hamster always smells! We clean her out every 2 days but it still stinks! What is wrong with her?
A. Female Syrians often smell really bad when they are on 'Heat'. This is to do with breeding, and females will
come into heat about every 4 days. It is really important that you stop cleaning out your hamster so often. The
more often you clean out your hamster, the more stressed it will get! It is recommended that, as long as you
spot clean poops and the wee corner, that bedding does not need a complete change any more than once a
month. As long as it is poop and wee free, the less you clean out the full cage, the better!

Q2. My hamster loves to climb, and often hangs from the bars on the top of his cage! I am really worried
about him falling and hurting himself, but I don't know how to stop him climbing.
A. Some hamsters are just natural born climbers, and unless you get a cage with no bars, there is really no way
to stop it. Luckily, deep bedding to provide a soft landing pad, along with hammocks that can be hung
underneath big drops to break any falls are good safety measures.

Q3. I want to keep my hamster downstairs, but I am worried the household noises will keep him awake in the
day. Should he be kept somewhere quieter, like a bedroom?
A. Your hamster will get used to sounds in the day, and eventually learn to sleep through them. In fact, keeping
hamsters in a bedroom can keep the human awake, since they are so noisy at night! Your hamster will be fine
kept downstairs with the household activity, and is more likely then to adjust his sleeping pattern to wake
earlier for playtime, too.

Q4. Can hamsters have hay?
A. Hamsters do not need hay, and there is always a risk that it could damage their cheek pouches, but some
hamsters do very much enjoy eating it and using it as bedding. If you want to use it, I recommend using only a
small amount along with the usual bedding. Be very careful about where you buy it from - not in bulk or from
farms as these can carry mites. Hay from a pet store is best.

Q5. I've heard people talk about sand baths, what are these?
A. Sand baths, or dust baths, are commonly used among hamster owners. Hamsters usually love rolling around
them! Buy some Chinchilla Sand (Make sure it is not dust, the packet must say sand) and put it in a small pot or
bowl big enough to hold your hamster. Make it about 3cm deep. Dwarf hamsters are the biggest lovers of sand
baths, although Syrians, especially long haired ones, will benefit from them too!

Do you have a question for our resident expert? Get in contact via our website, or email them
to us at bpsp.grasshoppers@gmail.com

Issue 03 September 2013
11


Hamsters have a very short life span which means
that if they get sick they can deteriorate and die
quite quickly, in this article I'm going to go over a
hamster health check you can do on your little furry
friends to check they are okay.

It's up to you to decide how often and when to check
your hamster/s because of how quickly they can
deteriorate. I tend to check them at least twice a
week but you can do it as often as you can/want to.

At this point I need to say if you find/suspect
anything wrong with your hamster then you must
take them to the vet, the sooner you take a hamster
the bigger chance of being able to save his/her life.

Weight - the first thing I check is a hamster’s weight,
now I tend to do this daily just so I can keep their
weight in check and to make sure they aren't

Losing or gaining weight too quickly, a lot of illnesses will show in a hamster losing weight because with a lot of
illnesses they stop or cut down on eating.

A hamster’s weight like a human’s can fluctuate throughout the day (by up to 6g) so it's important to weigh
them at the same time.


A hamster’s weight will steadily increase up to six
months of age and will start to slowly decrease after 18
months of age which is why it's good to regularly weigh
them and note it down, slow decreases are ok but
sudden drops in weight can indicate a health problem. A
good size Syrian can weigh 200g or more but pet shop
hamsters can weigh less (although not always, I've had
some pet shop hamsters weigh well over 200g)

Teeth - hamsters have 16 teeth, a pair of incisors on
either side (4 in total) and three pairs of molars or cheek
teeth (12 in total). The incisor teeth keep growing
throughout a hamster’s life which is why it is important
to check them regularly, if they do get too long you will
have to take your hamster to the vet to get them
clipped. The bottom teeth should be longer than the top
ones and they are yellow in colour.
Issue 03 September 2013
12
It's important to provide a hamster with something to
chew, they won't always use it but it should be
provided regardless.

A dribble/wet chin can be an indication of overgrown
teeth, so have a look at your hamster’s chin.

I find the best way to check a hamster’s teeth is to
hold his/her favourite treat above them and when
they stand to take it have a look at their teeth.

Nose - a hamster’s nose should be wet but not overly
so, there should be no discharge, if there is then it’s
possible your hamster could either have a cold or it
could be an allergy to something.

Hamsters can often be allergic to dusty cage material
or the fine dust particles you find in sawdust, if you
find this is the case then change bedding/cage material

to something not dusty.

Eyes - a hamster’s eyes should be clean and clear, there should be no discharge or redness, if there is any then
seek veterinary advice, also sunken in eyes can indicate illness so look out for this too.

Ears - a young hamster will have little hairs on their ears where as an older hamster will have very little hairs and
their ears appear shiny, sometimes a hamster’s ears can go dry and flaky (especially older hamsters) but a little
oil rubbed into their ears will relieve the dryness and flaking.

Fur and nails - a hamster’s nails can become long which can impede movement and cause a hamster pain, not
to mention they may get caught on something. Check each paw for long nails, from experience a hamster will
scratch the bottom of its cage but you can also use chinchilla sand which the hamster will dig through.

If these things don't work then trimming the nails is an
option, it can be done yourself at home but if you have
a wiggly hamster I suggest taking it to a vet, from
experience the majority of hamsters will keep their
own nails short, out of over 30 hamsters I've had I've
only had one that I had to take to the vet for nail
clipping.

A hamster will lose its fur as it gets older, don't be
alarmed at this, a younger hamster losing its fur could
indicate mites or an allergy so should be taken to the
vet, when you have the hamster out check for bald
spots and if you see any check the skin for signs of

redness or flaking, also don't forget to check a hamster’s belly as well.

Hamsters are very clean animals and they will spend a good amount of time grooming, when a hamster is ill
they often don't groom so look out for dishevelled fur.

Issue 03 September 2013
13
Scent glands - a hamster’s scent glands should be checked, they shouldn't ever cause any problems for a
hamster but can sometimes become blocked, rub your fingers gently over them to check for signs of scabbing
and look out for signs of discharge.


Rear end - a hamster’s rear end should be lean and
dry, to check this pick up the hamster by wrapping
your fingers firmly (but not tightly) around the middle
of the hamster then gently turn them on to their back,
the check should take seconds but it is a must as a
wet/dirty rear end can indicate wet tail which must be
treated ASAP as it can kill a hamster in a couple of
days.

Lumps, bumps and swellings - a hamster should be
checked regularly for lumps and bumps. I check their
back and sides and also their chest and abdomen, the
chest and abdomen checks are done when I'm
checking their back end, I gently press on their
abdomen to check for lumps and swelling, I also stroke
a hamster from head to tail to make sure there are no
lumps, bumps or swelling elsewhere.

Behaviour - it's important to know your hamster, how they behave etc. If your hamster is an active, hyper,
wants to be out all the time hamster then suddenly they don't want out it can indicate a health problem.

How they act is also another indication, when they come out are they active or are they sat hunched up, are
they cleaning, do they have sunken eyes?

Not all hamsters are active when they come out, a lot of mine will happily just sit and watch but they show no
signs of illness.

Things not on a hamster to be checked
It’s not only the hamster itself you have to check, you also need to check other things

Food – hamsters, like humans, can be picky eaters, you need to make sure they are getting a variety of food and
nutrients as if they aren't it can cause things like fur loss, dry skin and vitamin deficiency so make sure you check
where a hamster is storing its food and make sure they are eating it.

Water - the average intake for a hamster is 10ml per 100g of body weight, the water bottle should be checked
daily not only to make sure it's working but to keep a check on how much your hamster is drinking, if they are
drinking a lot it can indicate diabetes and if they aren't they can get dehydrated.

The cage itself - the cage should be checked regularly for signs of mould (especially if you feed your hamsters
fresh food) and diarrhoea, checking the bedding is also a good idea as a lot of hamsters store their food in their
bedding.

Stools - hamsters have two types of stools a softer stool which they will eat (this is normal) and a harder darker
stool, stools should be checked regularly for signs of diarrhoea, you may see it or smell it but if your hamster has
it the veterinary treatment must be sought.

Issue 03 September 2013
14
Summary

If you are at all worried about your hamster or you find something during a health check that concerns you then
please take your little one to the vet as early treatment is vital for saving your little friend’s life and don't forget
not only to check your little one but check their home too.


Issue 03 September 2013
15

Hi, my name is Percy Pocket, welcome to my diary!




Here is my first entry in
my diary, it is my ID
card.

As you can see I am a
mature hamster, my
owner says I'm very old.





I was six weeks when
my owner bought me,
here is me arriving at
my owners home in my
travel box. I was so
scared and shy that I
hid behind it to look at
my owner.


Issue 03 September 2013
16
But it didn't take long for me to fit in; I was made very welcome as you can see by this
pile of nibbles and fresh sawdust in my new cage.

Exercise is very important for a hamster so my owner bought me this lovely green ball to
run in, hamsters can run for many miles. My owner closes the lid and places it on my
girostand so I can run without bumping into the furniture. I love it.

Issue 03 September 2013
17
I also have this large wheel which I run in when I am out of my cage. Running burns a lot
of calories and so I need nibbles to replenish my energy.


As I said running burns a lot of calories. It is also very important to nibble on greens and
veg, it keeps me healthy.

Issue 03 September 2013
18
But never forget a treat now and again is part of a balanced diet. This is one of my
favorite treats - honey seed block.


Don't forget to clean up after eating, and now time for a little invisible flute playing.

Issue 03 September 2013
19
My owner and I like to play hide and seek. I'm very good at it, I always win!

After a long productive day of running, nibbling and playing, I'm very tired as I am long
in the tooth now so night-night!


Issue 03 September 2013
20


Science Selective Hamster Nuggets by GhostsInSnow

Supreme’s most well-known food Is Harry Hamster which is endorsed by the
NHC, however, Supreme also do a nugget range called Science Selective. I
feed both my hamsters this in conjunction with their other mixes and Fudge,
my Syrian particularly enjoys it. The percentages are Protein 19.0%, Crude
fibre 5.0%, Fat content 5.0%, Inorganic matter 5.5%, so pretty much the
same as Harry Hamster but with it being a nugget food, it prevents selective
feeding and you can be sure your hammie is getting all the nutrients it
needs. Also, it has no sugar so can even be fed to hams that are prone to, or
suffer from, Diabetes!

Fudge likes the mix because she can pouch loads of it and pile it up in her
house without having to mess around with little seeds and they are also a
cute little heart shape which is great for those with “girly” hams.


It has recently become quite easy to get hold of. You can get singular 350g bags from pet-supermarket and it
can also be found on zooplus where you can get a single bag or a pack of 3.

Twisty nest bedding By Susie

Twisty nest bedding is bedding made by Supreme which is a trustworthy and well known company. It provides
many benefits to your pet and their cage, it is colourful so adds an aesthetically pleasing touch to the cage. The
bedding itself is dust free and softer than some beddings on the market. The bedding was designed to enrich the
hamster’s life by the task of unravelling the bedding provided to them, though whether the hamster opts to do
this is down to the individual hamster. A bag of it is reasonably priced at around 4 pounds per 500g bag, though
the downside is this does not last very long. The bedding is very absorbent, as stated on the packet and keeps
odours under control.

Issue 03 September 2013
21
Living World Salad Bowls by Linford

Living World have recently released a new range of
products - the Green range. Bilbo, our 5 month old
Syrian hamster, has been sampling them for us! He
tried the following salads:

Carrot, Rose Hip, Dandelion and Alfalfa.

Marigold, Strawberry and Green Oat.

Parsley, Parsnip and Meadow Grass.

Rose Hip, Ribwort and Sunflower Petals.

He was happy to sample them all, having a little nibble
of each one, but the only one he wanted more of was
the Parsley, Parsnip and Meadow Grass salad.


He preferred to use the others as bedding, taking them
to his nest and sleeping on them! They weren't a huge
hit with him, but if you have a hamster that enjoys its
greens, it would be worth giving one or two of them a
go. They are suitable for all small animals, and I know
Guinea Pigs and Rabbits would definitely enjoy them,
so are a must purchase if you own a hamster as well as
another furry.

Overall, it is worth trying out one or two pots before
buying the whole set, because they are perhaps not
suited to most hamsters tastes - it depends on your
hamster. It is made of 100% natural ingredients.

You do get a lot of it in one pot, so a hamster will take
quite a few servings to finish it! Bilbo is still enjoying
the Meadow Grass, Parsley and Parsnip weekly. It will
be available for purchase soon, so keep an eye out!

Visit the Living World Range here:
http://ca-en.livingworldgreen.com/who-we-are

Next issue we will have a detailed review on Living
World Green's new habitat, the Eco Habitat! It arrived
as the magazine was being released, and is currently
being trialled, so keep an eye out for it! Meanwhile
why not take a look at it at http://ca-
en.livingworldgreen.com







Issue 03 September 2013
22


The European hamster (scientific name: cricetus cricetus), is also known as the black-bellied hamster, common
hamster or Eurasian hamster, and is a nocturnal, solitary rodent not too physically dissimilar to the domestic
Syrian hamster that has made us their willing servants at some time in our lives.

The first black-bellied hamster was documented in 1679 and given its name in 1758 by Swedish botanist and
zoologist, Carl Linnaeus, who is considered the father of modern taxonomy
1
.

Appearance
The European hamster somewhat resembles the golden
hamster in appearance. It has brown fur covering its back,
with accents of white around the cheeks and mouth and
on its side, but the distinguishing feature for the black-
bellied hamster is of course the ebony black fur that
covers its underside – hence the nickname ‘black-bellied
hamster’. While this is the typical appearance of the
species, no two individuals will have exactly the same
shade of brown fur and there have been albino and
melanistic
2
animals as well, although these are very rare.

1
Taxonomy – the finding and naming of species.
2
Melanistic - melanism is the exact opposite of albinism, and occurs when an animal has an abundance of dark-coloured pigment in its
skin.
Issue 03 September 2013
23
The other feature that sets the species aside from its golden cousin is its size. The European hamster is the
largest species of the hamster family and averages around 12 inches (30 centimetres) in length and can weigh as
much as 500g. The largest recorded European hamster measured in at a jaw-dropping 14 inches. To offer a
mental picture of this, think of a fully grown guinea pig; guinea pigs can average between 10 to 14 inches in
length, but are slightly bulkier at an average weight of around 900g. Gives new meaning to the term ‘teddy bear
hamster’ doesn’t it?

Habitat
Fruitful steppes, riverbanks and grassland were the hamsters’ preferred habitats in years gone by, but the
plucky little rodent has adapted to manmade changes to the land and can now be found by road verges, in
meadowlands, crop lands and even near human settlements such as apartment complexes.

Wild hamsters live in burrows. European hamster burrows can be as deep as two metres, and are normally
found in rich, heavy soils such as loam, which is a mixture of sand, clay and organic matter. The average burrow
normally consists of a dwelling chamber, toilet pit and food store. It’s the hamster equivalent of a studio – one
bed, one bath and a kitchen!



Hamsters spend the winter in these deep burrows, hibernating and surviving on food stocks gathered and
stored during the autumn months. They are not true hibernators that sleep all through the winter months, but
they do sleep for a prolonged period of time, which is usually a matter of weeks.



Issue 03 September 2013
24
The geography of the European hamster is fairly widespread, ranging from France to Siberia. However, these
mammals are currently on the endangered species list. As of 2012, France was home to fewer than 200 black-
bellied hamsters, and the Netherlands, Germany and Belgium have also reported decreased population figures.
European hamster numbers are higher in eastern European countries; they are more commonly spotted in
Hungary, the Czech Republic, Slovakia and Romania, but unfortunately their populations are now declining in all
regions. The populations in France are believed to have been devastated by modern farming practices and
urban development as well as the fact that they are considered pests since they feed on farmers’ crops. Sadly,
animals caught feeding on crops are often destroyed.

The exact reason for the decline in the other regions is not yet fully understood.
The European hamster is protected by the strict legal guidelines of Annex IV of the Habitats Directive and
appendix II of the Bern Convention, which forbids the disturbance, harm or destruction of the individual animals
or their burrows. These rules have been further reinforced in France in recent years with the Court of Justice in
Luxembourg threatening a fine of £24.6m if France did not better protect these endangered animals.



Food
Much like our beloved pets, the black-bellied hamster
eats seeds, grains, grasses, fruits and vegetables.
However, being a wild animal, these hamsters have
quite a diverse diet and additions to this can include
insects, small amphibians such as lizards and frogs as
well as small mammals such as mice.

Also like domesticated hamsters, the European
hamster has cheek pouches for hoarding food, and
these can hold between 20 and 30 grams of food.


Life expectancy and reproduction
The European hamster can live up to eight years. This
is on average four times longer than a Syrian hamster.

There is some dispute about the conditions under
which a black-bellied hamster will live up to eight
years; some sources say it is in the wild when they are
able to hibernate and some say it is in captivity where
the danger of predators (birds of prey and foxes) has
been removed.

Female hamsters become sexually mature at around three months old
and males at two months old. Breeding season normally starts in
April and lasts until August, and females come into season every four
to six days. Each individual adult lives in a separate burrow and this is
generally the only time that a female will tolerate a male in her
territory.

The gestation period is 18 to 21 days and females have been known
to have between two and five litters per year. Litter sizes can consist
of between four and 12 pups.
Fun Fact!

Did you know that the European
hamster is a good swimmer?
It inflates its cheek pouches with
air and uses them as flotation aids
while swimming.
Issue 03 September 2013
25
European hamsters as pets
At present, very few people believe the European hamster is a suitable pet for experienced adults let alone
children.

While these animals have been kept and handled in laboratories for
research purposes, they are very rarely kept as pets.

The wild black-bellied hamster can be very aggressive and will not
hesitate to defend itself if frightened or if it feels threatened.

If you’ve had a painful nip from your own little hammy, it’s unlikely
you will want to experience one from an individual at least four times
the size!


There have been a few people that have managed to tame a European hamster to some degree, and of course
individual hamsters will have different temperaments so some are likely to be more responsive to taming than
others.

However, given its aggressive nature and its secured place on the endangered species list, perhaps this is one
small rodent that is best left untamed.





Rumour has it…

The European hamster can squirt
its pee into the eye of any animal it
perceives as a threat, and
supposedly its aim is fairly
accurate.
Issue 03 September 2013
26

Hamsters are like humans, they love a variety of food, a lot of food is safe for a hamster to eat and in this article
I will be discussing hamster safe foods.

Hamster mix
The main part of a hamster’s diet should be made up of the hamster mix. This can either be pre made or you can
make it yourself. There are loads of pre made hamster mixes out there, make sure you pick a hamster one as
mixes for other small animals have different protein and vitamin content.

The main things in a hamster mix are:
Crushed oats
Clipped oats
Flaked maize
Sunflower seeds
Peanuts
Dried peas
Grass pellets

The hamster mixes may contain other things like other kinds
of nuts or dried fruit, veg and even things like Mealworms.


Fresh fruit and vegetables
Fruit and veg should either be fresh, or frozen and frost free. If fresh they should be washed thoroughly and left
to drain before being put in the cage. I find that the day before cage cleaning is the best day to give fresh food
as it won't have a chance to go mouldy.

A small amount should be fed, I give a piece the size of my thumb nail and I feed them it once or twice a week. A
pregnant or nursing mum can have a small amount of fresh greens every day.

Hamster’s tastes will differ from hamster to hamster, my Hams
love peas and broccoli, some other things you can try are:
Broad beans
Runner beans
Carrots
Sweet corn
Cucumber
Sweet potato
Apple
Banana
Strawberries
Melon
The amount you can give and how often will also depend on the hamster, if you give a hamster too much too
often they will get diarrhoea so if this happens give less or less often.

Issue 03 September 2013
27
Plants
Hamsters can eat certain plants, things like dandelion (leaf and flower), groundsel, clover and watercress are
very much enjoyed by hamsters, raspberry shoots are enjoyed in early spring and a small strawberry leaf can be
given if your hamster has loose droppings.

Plants to be avoided are:

Buttercup
Bluebells
Bindweed
Ragwort
Elder
Hemlock
Speedwell
Privet

If you’re unsure about anything, it’s better to be safe than sorry and not give it to your Ham!


Treats
Hamsters like humans love treats but you should
remember that they are exactly that (treats),
they should be fed as well as hamster mix not
instead of and not every day. Pet shops sell loads
of treats, yoghurt and chocolate drops are very
popular in this house, the chocolate drops used
in hamster choc drops has a higher melting point
than human chocolate so it won't melt in their
pouch.

Under no circumstances feed hamsters
chocolate meant for human consumption! These
treats also have high sugar content so they
should be given sparingly to any Dwarf hamsters
or Hamsters that may have Diabetes.

Seed coated sticks are another good one, the can
be hung from the cage (or if your Ham is
anything like my hamster Shearer, stripped and
stored in about 10 minutes!)

Simple treats like a piece of dried banana, raisin,
sultana, a piece of plain biscuit or some cooked
potato are very much enjoyed too, hamsters also
enjoy millet spray.

Nuts and seeds are also very much enjoyed by
hamsters, we always make sure we have a bag of
pumpkin seeds, walnuts and almonds handy.
They tend to prefer the walnuts over anything
else.
Issue 03 September 2013
28
Protein
Hamsters need a high protein diet to stay healthy. Most pre-made hamster foods have a good level of protein
but other protein foods can be fed, foods such as:

Chicken breast (skinless)
Turkey
Cheese (Sparingly!)
Salmon
Egg (scrambled, hard or soft boiled, fried with no oil)
Meal worm (live or dead)
Tuna (drained if using tinned)
Nuts

Like with other treats a small amount (thumb nail size) should be given and should not be given daily unless the
hamster is pregnant or nursing.

Mash and milky foods

Mash and milky foods are good for young hamsters, nursing mothers, hamsters recovering from an operation,
stroke or are older hamsters.

Milky foods can be fed in the form of porridge, bread soaked in milk or pasta sold in milk. Like with other foods a
small amount should be given, a tea spoon full is ample and will be enjoyed.

Older hamsters will often put the harder food into the porridge to soften it up. Milky foods can also be given to
hamsters that have tooth problems.

Summary

Fruit and veg should be fresh or frozen, if fresh must be washed and drained before giving.

Treats should not be fed instead of a hamster mix.

Treats should not be fed on a daily basis.

Choose food that you yourself would consume.


Issue 03 September 2013
29

What is Pyometra?
Pyometra is a condition predominantly seen in the older female Syrian Hamster, though it can be seen in
younger hamsters and, on rare occasions, female dwarf hamsters. In this condition, the uterus becomes
infected.

The onset and progression of Pyometra is so quick that it is advised to seek veterinary help immediately if
symptoms are noticed.

(Note, female hamsters come into heat every 4 days so it is normal to see discharge around the vulva at this
time. Pyometra is caused by hormonal changes where the uterus lining is altered. The bacteria involved are
thought to enter the uterus through the cervix and often occurs around the time of normal oestrus.)

Types of Pyometra

Open Pyometra- In open Pyometra, the cervix remains or becomes open, and pus and/or blood then drain out
the body via the vulva which originates from the infected uterus. Open pyometra is considered more treatable
than closed Pyometra.

Closed Pyometra- Closed Pyometra is where the cervix is kept closed. This results in a build up of pus from
inside the uterus as it is not able to drain from the body. The build up of pus can cause abdominal distension
and an increase of pressure inside the uterus. A closed Pyometra can be difficult to detect until it is in the
advanced stages because of the absence of visible signs of discharge from the vulva.

Signs of Pyometra

 Yellow discharge and/or blood from the vulva (open pyometra)
 Firm stomach
 Strong musky smell
 Drinking more
 Occasionally feces may be seen around the rear end as Pyo can cause bowel issues too.
 Distended stomach (closed Pyometra)
 Can be lethargic

If urgent treatment is not sought, the bacteria can get into the blood stream causing Septicaemia (blood
poisoning).

This can happen in both open and closed Pyometra. Once the toxins and bacteria are in the blood stream, the
organs, such as the liver, may not be able to cope with filtering out the toxins which results in toxins
accumulating in the blood and eventually the brain, or the uterus may rupture and the infection gets into the
abdomen causing peritonitis.



Issue 03 September 2013
30
Signs of Septicaemia
 Not grooming
 Unresponsive
 Irritable
 Inappetence
 Refusing to drink
 Loss of balance
 Stumbling
 Shaking
 Coma/Death

Treatment options for Pyometra
The only real cure for Pyometra is to have the hamster spayed (removal of the uterus). This is, however, a high
risk procedure and some hamsters are deemed unsuitable for surgery due to various reasons. In this case, the
treatment options are Pyometra management in the form of keeping the hamster on antibiotics (normally
Baytril/ Septrin) or the use of high dose Baytril and the drug called Galastop (generic name cabergoline). This
drug combination is known to successfully manage Pyo. If the hamster is fit, active and healthy, and your vet
thinks they will tolerate surgery well, spaying is the best choice and should be done as soon as possible.
Pyometra management offers hope for the hamsters who won’t do well with surgery.

Citrus’ story

I began to notice my 14 month old mink Syrian
hamster Citrus appeared to be on heat every day. I
was absolutely devastated because the one thing
that was in my mind was Pyometra. I instantly took
her to the vets.

8
th
April 2013 – Took Citrus to the vet, my vet put
her under a bit of gas anaesthetic so she could
have a thorough check of her. She took a sample
of the discharge for analysis under a microscope
which resulted in that she had lots of bacteria in
her. Citrus was found to have of pus in her, unsure
of whether it was in her bladder or in her womb.

Citrus has been given Septrin antibiotic for 10
days... if she deteriorates at all in that time, she is
to immediately go in for a spay. If she remains well
in herself, then I am to go back in 10 days for a
check up and to be given a longer course of
Septrin. I have to give her baby food mixed with
water frequently, to make her urinate alot...
urinate the infection out if it is in her bladder.

She is still acting completely normal.


Taking her Septrin with baby food

Issue 03 September 2013
31
Citrus’ purple stomach before she started bleeding

12
th
April 2013- I noticed tonight that Citrus’
stomach area had turned a purple colour. I
continued to observe her and she started having
blood come out of her vulva and thick yellow pus.
I decide I must take Citrus back to the vets
immediately, since there should be no
deterioration whilst on antibiotics. She remains
bright and alert though.

13
th
April 2013- Took Citrus back to the vets
where she was diagnosed with open Pyometra.
The Vet and I set an appointment for Monday 15
th

April for her to go in at 8:10-8:30am where she
will be having x-rays to ensure there is no lumps
and bumps inside her and if all be well, to
go forward with the spay. In the meantime I am to continue administering Septrin antibiotic, giving watery baby
food and keep her strength up.


15
th
April 2013- Dropped Citrus off at the vets at
8:20am. Around 2:20pm I got a call and she’d had her
x-rays; they were all clear. The pus had gotten
considerably less in her womb on the Septrin than the
first appointment, so it was the choice of whether to
continue antibiotics or go ahead with the spay. I
decided that I wanted to have her spayed immediately,
because it’s the only cure.

What if symptoms recurred later down the line when
she wasn’t as strong and couldn’t take surgery? Might
as well solve it now while she is as strong as she is.

So, the operation went ahead... my vet explained to
me that during the operation Citrus would be kept on
heat mats to ensure her body temperature was good...
hamsters lose heat very fast especially during surgical
procedures.

Citrus’ hospital cage. Hot water bottles and towels
around the cage to keep her warm post surgery. Easy
access to foods & water.


She would also be given fluids, glucose and metacam (painkiller) injections. It took about an hour and I got a
phone call at 3:30pm saying that all was well, Citrus had got through the operation and I could come and collect
her at 4:30pm.

I made a hospital mini duna cage ready for Citrus’ return. As I knew she wouldn’t be very strong, it would be a
struggle for her to get around and she would need easy access to her food, baby food and water. I made her a
large open nest in the corner of the cage for her to sleep in. I decided she’d let me know when she was feeling
well enough to return to her cage and have cuddles etc.

Issue 03 September 2013
32

Citrus’ return. Operation... what operation?!


In her hospital cage nom nomming.



17
th
April 2013- Today Citrus had a post operation check-
up, she had a bit of moisturiser around her stitches so it’s
not so dry but otherwise she is now deemed fully healthy.
Continuing Septrin (on vet advice) for another 5 days just to
be on the safe side.


Citrus’ stitches – dissolvable internal ones.


Back in her Alaska cage, fully healthy... Back to normal and cured of Pyometra.
Issue 03 September 2013
33

Welcome to the Creative Corner where we feature the creative creations you send us!

This lovely Hamster shelf was created by
GhostsInSnow using a tutorial done by another
member of Hamster Central!

“The Knuff Magazine holders from IKEA come in
packs of two but you only need one. I took the back
off and put two coats of plastikote on it so it would
be easy to clean. To make the little fences, I used a
pack of small dowels. I glued the fences separately
with PVA glue and attached them to the platform
when they were dry. It’s probably a good idea to do
one side at a time as the glue makes the fences
move around. For decoration on top, I got a pack of
mushroom nibblers and glued those to the platform.
I also use a pack of garden herbs from Zooplus as ‘substrate’ and my Robo Sheldon loves it!”

These two adorable needle-
felted Hamsters are
affectionately known as
Hamlet and Miss Havisham.

Created by Jenny under her
shop name Mythillogical,
and inspired by her very own
Syrian Hamster muse, David
Bowie, Jenny originally
created Hamlet and Miss
Havisham for a
commissioner, but they
were so popular they were
flying off their Hamster-sized
shelves!

“On the very day I posted Hamlet off to his new owner in Scotland, I received a message from a graduate in the
US who had also fallen in love with Hamlet, and was wondering if I could make another for her. I agreed and set
up a reserve listing for her, only to wake up the following day to discover it had been bought by another lady in
Japan! So I have been kept very happily busy needle felting Shakespearean Hamsters. Thankfully I enjoy making
them and now people can choose the colour of the hamster - just in case they want something to remind them
of a hamster they own(ed).” Check out her adorable creations at http://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/Mythillogical !


Got a drawing, poem, knitted hamster, or other creative creation you want to be here? Just email
bpsp.grasshoppers@gmail.com
Issue 03 September 2013
34


You would never guessed that this little dude is
diabetic. Alfie came to his forever home in December
2012 with his brother Percy, and he was a happy little
chappy. Now Alfie is a very excitable little man and
hates to stay still, exploring is too interesting!

When I got him home I was concerned over how
energetic he was, it led to me separating him from his
brother as he became poorly from over exercising.
One day he became limp and cold, so he was put into
a glove on my lap with a hot water bottle until he
Came back round. At this point I had no idea what was wrong, we trundled to the vet and were told there was
nothing wrong with him and that he had just exhausted himself. At this point I thought I would get some things
in to test him at home for diabetes – just as a precaution. He was negative and I was so relieved! We carried on
as normal and he was reintroduced to his brother.

A couple of months went past and a second brother of his, Archie, became poorly. I tested him and it was the
dreaded diabetes; unfortunately he passed less than a week later and we had no time to help him. We did start
some insulin injections as he was in a bad way, and other medication available would not have helped at this
point. I managed a few injections for him but it was his time to go to the bridge.

A few days after I noticed Alfie was drinking a lot – not just slightly more than normal, but over double what he
was. He was also looking smaller so I grabbed the scales and weighed him to find that he had lost weight.
Instantly I put him into a dry, clean carrier and within minutes he peed. I put him back into his cage and got out
the keto-diastix. I burst into tears as I was watching the colours changing. He was diabetic! How could this
happen to not one but 2 of my little boys!

I picked up the phone to the vet before I had even processed what
was going on. They agreed he was diabetic and we were to start
medication immediately. I also changed his diet to a sugar free, high
protein diet to help try control things. We started him on a drug
called Glipizide and to get the mixture correct it was very confusing. I
had to dissolve the tablet into a specific amount of water and then
take a precise amount of that and then put that into his estimated
daily drinking water.

A week in and there was no improvement; my heart sank as I read
the results of a test. His water consumption hadn’t reduced and he
started to pee in his nest. I rang the vets and we agreed he needed
something more. We upped his dose, not just slightly but 10 times
the amount he had before. After a couple of days I repeated the
test. YES!!!! He was improving. His glucose had come down and his
ketones had almost disappeared. We gave him another 2 days and
again, glucose was reduced and ketones had gone completely!

Issue 03 September 2013
35

We gave the vet the good news and he was to be kept on
the same dose. His water consumption had reduced as well
to 8ml a day rather than the 16ml he was having.

A week on and we did the test several more times, as he
appeared to be drinking more again and I was concerned. I
did another test, How?? Glucose and Ketones at the
highest reading! I rang the vet first thing in the morning; his
dose was to be doubled. This is the highest dose that is
known to be beneficial.

We are now at this point and currently there is no
improvement. It has only been a few days so we have our
fingers crossed that the next test will give us something
positive. If not we will be considering insulin injections. I
will be avoiding this at all costs, this would mean testing
twice a day, and scruffing him for injections.

He has become a bit nippy at times but is still active. He is
sleeping more than he used to and still drinks and pees
more than normal. He has to have regular bedding changes
or he will start to smell. His urine is very sweet smelling but

the positive is that he has gained all the weight he had first lost. He isn’t allowed any treats other than things I
can confirm have no sugar in, but he is fussy so what I can give him he won’t eat. However, he is still our little
fighter, and I believe we can get through this together.


Issue 03 September 2013
36




Bilbo - Linford Annie – Kissa


Suki – Azula

Charlie – Linford Annie -September


Issue 03 September 2013
37

Daisy - Char Citrus - Susie

Timi - Penanna

Aspen - Susie

Cream banded LH Syrian Baby Boy - Astakatrin
Issue 03 September 2013
38




This issue’s Star Photo is of Pixel, sent to us by their owner Hayley from York! Thank you Hayley!

Check back next issue for more of the glorious Hamster gallery; Issue 05’s theme will be “The Christmas
Hamster!” To submit your festive furry friend, please check page 39 for submission details!
Issue 03 September 2013
39



The Hamster Mag staff are looking for volunteers to write articles! How-to and DIY articles, health and
physiology articles, diary-style articles, short stories, informative articles that cover topics such as hamster
cages, food and accessories and many more!

We’re always on the look out for high-quality images of hamsters to feature in future The Hamster Mag. ALL
breeds are accepted for submissions; if it’s a Hamster and you have a high quality image of it, we want to hear
from you! We’re particularly low on Dwarf Hamster images.

We’re currently rummaging in every nook and cranny for images the Hamster Gallery! Issue 05’s theme will be
“The Christmas Hamster!” So if you’ve got an image of your furry friend being festive, we’d love to see!

Do you have an article ready for us to publish? Would you like to write an article for us but aren’t sure about a
topic? No problem! Pop over to our website or send us an email at bpsp.grasshoppers@gmail.com with “Ham
Mag” as the subject and we’ll give you some suggestions!

PLEASE NOTE. All articles, images and content you send to us MUST be of your creation, or you must obtain the
express permission of the original creator to use them. The Hamster Mag will not feature anything that is stolen.




Issue 03 September 2013
40









Issue 03 September 2013
41
IMPORTANT NOTICE
The Hamster Mag exists for the purpose of providing support and information to anyone caring for or owning a
hamster. The Hamster Mag is written by a team of volunteers who share a love of hamsters, many of whom are
not vets/medically qualified. You are strongly advised to consult your vet if you are concerned about your
hamster's health or wellbeing. All advice in this magazine is widely used by our writers, but makes no
guarantees and does not substitute for veterinary expertise.

All names given herein are a mixture of real names and forum pseudonyms dependent on the Staff Contributors
preference. If you wish to know more about the team and meet them, pop over to our website;
http://thehamstermag.webs.com or just send us an e-mail!
The Staff
The dedicated few who are committed to working on every issue of The Hamster Mag!

The Contributors
The contributors who we thank for being AMAZING and being part of The Hamster Mag.
We can’t praise or thank them enough!

Astakatrin of flickr, Cactus, Callie Hodges, Charlie B, GhostsInSnow, hikaru, isold, Kiah Tulloch, Kissa, Laura
Jacques, Leedsgurl, Linford, Rhonda Stewart, Stephani e Reesor and Susi e.




On the cover
Name: Teddy
Owner: LeedsGurl ’ s Mum
Speci es: Syri an
Col our: Long hai red Dove
Born : 06/11/2011


Named after: The grey ‘ tatty
teddi es’ – he l ooks j ust l i ke them!
Brothers and si sters: Was the onl y
dove baby from the ‘ Dexpops’
l i tter. The rest were ci nnamon.
Fun fact: Was gi ven by LeedsGurl
to her mum for Chri stmas.
Linford27
The head honcho of The Hamster
Mag. Chief Editor Linford27 is a
South-West-England dweller who is a
long established member of Hamster
Central. She and her new baby Syrian
Bilbo keep everyone working on The
Hamster Mag in check as well as
being lovely to boot!
Laura Jacques
This North-West-England dweller is
the proud owner of Syrian hamster
Timi. Laura, known as “Penn” on
Hamster Central, is an editor and
writer for The Hamster Mag’s. She’s
also the content and graphics editor;
organising the pages and design of
the magazine when her sleeping
pattern isn’t matching Timi’s!
LeedsGurl
The owner and photographer of The
Hamster Mag's first two cover
models, who designs the layout of
The Hamster Mag’s front covers. She
is a hobbyist breeder of Syrians and
has kept hamsters on and off for the
past 20 years. She loves to design
and create, and is also a signature
artist on a couple of popular hamster
forums.

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