Professional Documents
Culture Documents
40 cents
Magazine of the
OUTDOOR SOUTHWEST
Rough
Country
Wind and rain
have carved
fantastic forma-
tions from the
deep beds of
clay at Cathedral
Gorge State Park
in eastern
Nevada
DISERT RAT 4fARRY 0UVER1
1888 • 1999
MOOX-AND-A-HAIiF
OVERTIME
The first part of April the lizards My old friend, Feather-in-
will be out warming their bellies on the-Wind, who works at odd-
the rocks. You Easterners should try First jobs here at Old Fort Oliver, f
this . . . you too should soak up some Quarter is getting his gear ready for \
of our sun's wonderful warmth . . . 4th his Spring trip to Feather
it's a sure cure for whatever you River Canyon where he will
brought along with you . . . (including pan for gold, right after the
the kids). spring-freshets.
Looking over my shoulder
There's always more rocks than lizards as I added up his hours,
Feather • in - the - Wind said:
"Better add a 'moon-and-a-
half o v e r t i m e f o r my
worrying about all your fool
animals."
Pull Moon
11th
Ever n o t i c e how dogs win
friends and influence people with
out reading books about it?
The Dry Lake Dude of Blythe Dry Camp Blackie wasted most
tells about the old rancher who of the winter. He tried to teach
died and concluded his will with: my dog, Whiskers, how to wag
". . . and being of sound mind and his tail up and down instead of
body, I spent every damned cent Last sideways.
that I had." Quartei
18th We know man and dog have
lived together two thousand years.
A prospector just south of My dog Whiskers knows 25 or 30
Ajo had to build a rig to get words I speak — but when he
down into his well because his speaks to me 1 must watch his
cat was trapped on a tail, his ears, his eyes and then
ledge 30 feet under- guess what he's saying.
ground. He saved the Animals are smart — Horses
c a t a n d discovered never bet on people.
that the ledge showed The wisest o w 1 occasionally
"good c o l o r " (gold). hoots at the wrong time.
Now he's mining his
well, and taking his Xew Moon The records show that the tor-
drinking water from toise won only one race with the
the shaft of his mine. hare.
As a desert enthusiast I believe about four times
as much as I can prove and can prove about four times
as much as anyone else believes. I never exaggerate—
just remember big.
MARCH, 1960
BOOKS of the SOUTHWEST
The Entire Story- of
BIOGRAPHY OF A MORMON It gives us a rare picture of the Apaches
from the inside looking out. The reader
PIONEER IN ARIZONA gains a clearer understanding of the intri-
The name Udall is prominent in Arizona cate clan system under which these Indians
and in the Mormon Church. The late operated. The roots of the Apache Wars and
David King Udall, patriarch of the family, are revealed in new light. And the book Soutnern California's
spent many months prior to his death in is far more than its commercially-inspired Last Oig "^Western
1938 compiling a "history" of his life. title would suggest, although the bulk of
Arizona Silhouettes of Tucson recently the story does concern the warpath days.
brought out the biography under the title, The author does not glorify mayhem, nor
Arizona Pioneer Mormon. Primarily in- does he side-step it—it is too much a part
tended for the many members of his family. of the frightful Apache story. An example: Has Seen
Udall's story, nevertheless, has wide appeal, ". . . The Mexicans tried all afternoon
especially to those who are interested in the to dislodge the Indians. After dark
still-young Mormon Church. they set fire to the grass hoping to
A few weeks after his marriage, Udall burn the Indians out. The latter were B y
was called to serve a mission in England now in serious condition. They were
which lasted over two years. After his re- surrounded by the prairie fire, the circle
turn to Utah, the Church summoned him of it drawing closer. The warriors
again — this time to lead the struggling
Mormon colony trying to take root in the
asked the consent of the few women
who were there to let them choke the
small children so that they wouldn't
WILLIE BOY
A DESERT MANHUNT
arid land near the head of the Little Colo- give away their movements by crying.
rado River in far-eastern Arizona. The Then they all crawled through the fire
neat farms and ordered way of life in this and got away without being seen."
Price
•5.95
PAISANO
large sector of the Southwest are monu- After serving his kinsman, Geronimo, on
I'. (). Box H5
Balboa Island, Califor
ments to Udall's leadership. the warpath. Betzinez attended the Carlisle Order at your bookstore or direct from
Here is insight into the spirit of the Indian school. Later he became a Christian publisher; add 15c mailing charge.
movement that is still working hard to and took up farming. California buyers please add 4% sales tax.
make "the wilderness and the solitary place
. . . blossom as the rose." Published by the Stackpole Company;
214 pages; index; many halftone photos;
304 pages; index; appendix; many illus- maps; $4.95.
trations; $10. M-4
AN APACHE INDIAN
HOW TO CUT AND Wotking and Guest Ranch
POLISH GEMSTONES Enjoy a family vacation on a working cattle
WRITES ABOUT HIS LIFE ranch with fine accommodations, excellent
A handsome new book on the popular
The Apache Indians of the '80s were a subject of turning rough stones into beau- food and a wonderful pool. Above the ranch
"mixed-up" race. They were jealous of each tiful gems is now available to lapidary are heavily timbered mountains with lakes
other, and some of the tribesmen made fans. The well-qualified authors are Leland and beautiful horseback trails. Below is the
careers of being troublemakers. The Apache Quick, editor-publisher of The Lapidary awe inspiring red rock canyon country of the
never forgot or forgave a wrong. The love Journal, and Hugh Leiper. former editor Green, San Juan and Colorado Rivers. Truly
of strong drink made them fools; they of The Mineral Hobbyist. we live in a veritable photographer's paradise.
practiced moderation in nothing. The men
were lazy; few had foresight to realize that
the Southwest was in the throes of change;
The Quick-Leiper book is called, Gem-
craft, and in it the entire lapidary spec- Ei/etett & Betty Schumaket
they could not adapt. trum is presented—from where and how Box 963, Maab, Utah Alpine 3-6801
to collect gemstone material, to slabbing,
The above indictment comes from Jason cutting, polishing and even engraving gems.
Betzinez — an Apache Indian, and not a
new-generation university-trained Apache, Big pictures and plenty of them high-
either. Betzinez was born in 1860. His light the book. There are also many good Pick up
book, / Fought with Geronimo, was pub- drawings.
lished last year in the author's 99th year.
In many ways this is a remarkable book.
Published by Chilton Co., Philadelphia;
181 pages; special tables; bibliography;
COACH CAMPER
$7.50. Fits any pick up.
Compact, efficient.
"OVERLOOKED FORTUNES" WHEN AN ENGLISH GIRL Sleeps 5 to 7
IN THE RARER MINERALS SETTLES ON A COW RANCH GALLEY . . .
DESERT MAGAZINE
did entitled, "A Tour through Arizona"—
which appeared in Volumes 29 and 30 of
LETTERS Harper's Magazine.
It did however appear in book form in
1869. in "The Apache Country Tour
FROM OUR READERS Through Arizona and Sonora" by J. Ross
Browne and published by Harper & Broth-
Yes! . . . dehydration on a desert outing, the great ers, N. Y., on page 432, under a section
suffering of the Utah family whose car entitled. "The Dead Sea of the West"—
To the Editor: Congratulations on the re- broke down on a "short" sight-seeing trip. again with no connection with his Arizona
newed life you have instilled into Desert Isn't life worth $10 and a little extra tour.
Magazine and the attractive and interesting effort? My thought is that no car should
lay-outs you have created. After reprinting two of J. Ross Browne's
go prowling around the desert without an works—The Coast Rangers and A Peep at
It is with pleasure that I enclose a check extra tire and tools, the gas and oil checked Washoe and Washoe Revisited—I compli-
to renew my subscription for two years. before starting off, a couple of gallon ther- ment Miss Hill on selecting two of Browne's
Seven months ago I would not have re- mos jugs of water permanently stored in sketches, for he was a great, but sadly
newed, as Desert Magazine was deteriorat- the trunk along with a few old blankets or neglected. Western pioneer. Because of this
ing into a rockhound's journal. I have sleeping rolls, a yellow sheet (easy to spot nearly century of neglect, the handful of
nothing against such journals (in fact, I'm from the air by rescue planes), a few cans Browne students are encountering difficul-
the editor of the San Diego Mineral and of Army rations. . . . ties in compiling even a partial bibliography
Gem Society's Bulletin), but Desert Maga- Nothing expensive in this list, but enough of his many works.
zine is a publication that should include all here to save a life in case mishap strikes HORACE PARKER
facets of Southwestern lore. Thank you for in the wilderness. Only work involved is Paisano Press
rejuvenating it. periodically changing the water to keep Balboa Island, Calif.
EVELYN L. CARTER this emergency supply fresh.
San Diego, Calif.
FLORENCE MATTSON A Landmark Disappears . . .
Tucson
To the Editor: The news I am about to
No! ... impart is going to be saddening to many
To the Editor: We liked Desert Magazine The Wrong Source . . . lovers of desert lore.
better the way it was. Your changes are To the Editor: As a student and great I have just returned from a trip which
no improvement. Too many big pictures admirer .of J. Ross Browne I was puzzled included a visit to Keeler (located on the
taking up room and not enough of as it by the caption on the Browne woodcut on "shore" of Owens Lake bed on the Mojave
was," meaning more desert information page 1 1 of the February issue of Desert Desert.) I was astounded, flabbergasted and
wanted. Magazine ("Transportation on the Desert"). greatly disgruntled to find that the tram
DIXIE LONG The author, Mary Hill, is mistaken about terminal building and the tram, which at
Yuma, Ariz. the source of this drawing. one time carried ore down to Keeler from
It originally appeared in Harper's New the Cerro Gordo Mines, have disappeared!
Monthly Magazine. Volume 31, September The sturdy terminal building was not
Safety on the Desert . . . 1865, page 414, in a series entitled, "A merely torn down; it has vanished. The
To the Editor: As a long-time desert wan- Trip to Bodie Bluff and the Dead Sea of only thing that remains is the pair of huge
derer, I am distressed to read about back- the West"—this was the "second paper." counterweight "buckets." Surely the space
country accidents—the baby who died of In no way is it connected with a series he which the building occupied is not needed
APRIL, 1960
for some other purpose in this pitiful little A Wonderful Guy! . . . Parrish showed me the crutches Villa had
semi-ghost town. It appears obvious that used during his convalescence.
this was a salvage operation. I have no To the Editor: One look at his ample belly Margo was in charge of the 1945 re-
right to challenge the owner's action, but tells me that my friend for nearly 50 years, union. After being feted at the General's
I am indeed sorry that the old landmark cowman Rawley Duntley (Desert, Feb. home, we took to the trail with horses and
had to go. '60), is in good health and still living high pack animals. Next day we were enter-
CLAYTON I. KANAGY off the hog. What a wonderful guy! Since tained at the home of the General's eldest
Los Angeles the passing of Death Valley Scotty, various son; on the third day we stopped at his
outdoor groups have been searching for a son Rafael's home; and on the fourth day
new "most typical desert man." I nom- we rode out of the Valley to Villa's old
Pleased with Award . . . inate Rawley. camp.
To the Editor: I was pleased that my book, In Evelyn Young's good story on Raw- No trails—we simply rode over moun-
Hole-in-the-Rock, was selected to receive ley, she states that our valley's financial tains and down canyons. It was the most
Desert Magazine's 1959 literary award for troubles during the Depression were due to wonderful trip I ever made. We ate trout,
Southwest History. the gold mines shutting down. This is only turkey and venison at every meal.
I consider this the greatest honor and partly true. Actually, the collapse of alfalfa My buddy on this outing was Mike
recognition which I could have received for and livestock prices dealt the knockout blow Eurepa, General Eurepa's son. Mike was
my work. Please accept my sincere thanks to the Antelope Valley. A ton of baled always telling me that his father was a
and appreciation. hay sold for $8—today the price is $38. "mean man." One night I asked Margo
DAVID E. MILLER Round steak was 18c a pound—now you what young Eurepa was talking about.
Professor of History pay 75c. Margo explained. Villa often threatened
University of Utah To add to our troubles there came refu- to send soldiers who did not toe the line
Salt Lake City gees from the Dust Bowl—many of them to General Eurepa whose disciplinary
completely destitute. We asked for no out- methods included cutting off ears and hands.
side help—the small admission fees charged Then I remembered a Mexican from Juarez
at softball and basketball games were used who used to make my belts. This man had
MORE FOR to get many of these people over the hump.
Through it all good Old Rawley was
one hand—the work of General Eurepa.
Margo told me many interesting stories
always willing to do more than his share. about Villa. 1 wrote most of them down,
YOUR MONEY As long as there are men like Rawley
Duntley, it's still a wonderful world.
but the manuscript is still in my trunk.
JIM DYE
IN ALL NINE FRANK B. RUTLEDGE
San Clemente, Calif.
Apopka, Florida
DESERT MAGAZINE
YAQUI EASTER
Photographs by
CHARLES W. HERBERT
VERY EASTER for the past three centuries the enterprise. It expresses the deep religious motives of
E Yaqui Indians have re-enacted a complex and
primitive Passion Play. It has been little changed
since the early Yaquis of Mexico accepted the Christian
its members, and demands of them hard work and
sacrifice.
Fariseos (Pharisees) and Caballeros (Horsemen)
faith and combined their own rituals with the Catholic are the two societies in charge of the ceremonies. Mem-
mass and medieval miracle plays as taught to them by bers of the combined group are under vow to Jesus to
the Jesuits. take the part of the wicked ones who crucified Him.
We need not leave our own country to see this Leaders of the Fariseos are the "Pilates;" their masked
drama, for the Yaquis who beginning in 1882 migrated soldiers are known as "Chapayekas." Together they
to southern Arizona as political refugees brought the harass and bedevil the forces of good, search for Jesus
Play with them. Today the nucleus of this group in until they find Him in the Garden of Gethsemane,
America is found in Pascua Village, a 15-acre tract crucify Him, and try to destroy the church. Defeated,
entirely surrounded by the city of Tucson. About 700 they turn on the effigy of their "saint," Judas, burn
Yaqui Indians live there. Their drama of the Crucifix- him at the stake, then rush into the church to rededi-
ion and Resurrection along with the triumph of Good cate themselves to Christ. While performing evil deeds,
over Evil, interwoven with the Catholic service for
Lent and Holy Week, is a tightly organized community CONTINUED
APRIL, 1960
The Forces of Good • • •
(Continued)
"-
PASCOLA DANCERS stand guard over canvas
covered with leaves and flowers
(right foreground)—"ammunition"
that will be used to repel the Forces of Evil.
DEER
DANCER (left)
has a
strenuous role
in the Play,
for he must
dance for
anyone who MATACHIN DANCER is under vow to
so requests. the Blessed Virgin.
After the These dancers are called "Soldiers
victory over of the Virgin,"
the Fariseo and wear head-dresses of bright
Army, he crepe paper. The Matachines do not
dances all appear in the ceremonies
afternoon and until the eve of Palm Sunday.
night. Then they guard the church, and dance
for an hour at a time—
all through the long night.
DESERT MAGAZINE
and those of Evil
together by the weary members of the various groups. shaking hands, thanking the others for their conscien-
About noon they form a large circle at the east-end of tious participation, and saying farewell.
the plaza for the closing "thank you" ceremony. Stand-
ing in the center, the Head Maestro speaks of the That their Passion Play has not degenerated into
meaning of each role that has been played, and prays a tawdry commercial spectacle if proof of the sincerity
for a special pardon for those who assumed the evil and sturdy character of these Yaquis. But through the
roles. Then he gives an accounting of all the money years, pressure from crowds of onlookers has become
received and spent. The Fariseos and Caballeros then
form a line and march around the circle three times CONTINUED
APRIL, 1960
The Evil Fariseos Are Routed
A. S---
THE FARISEOS
ATTACK—The
church bell rings and
the maestros
start singing the
"Gloria."
The Fariseos race to
the church, but
are repulsed (above)
by the Pascolas
and others in the
Church group
who pelt them with
flowers, confetti and
dried leaves.
The Fariseos retreat
and reform rank.
Then they attack a
second time,
and a third.
Defeated by the
Forces of Good, the
Fariseos rush
to the Judas pyre,
throw their masks,
swords and
daggers at its feet
and set it afire (right).
As Judas burns,
the Evil Ones are
rushed into the
church.
10 DESERT MAGAZINE
• • and the Victors Celebrate
PASCOLAS, wearing
their masks
as they must when
dancing to the
music of drum and
flute, dance in front
of the church
in celebration of the
victory over Evil.
"SOLDIERS OF THE
VIRGIN" kneel in
front of the church
and give thanks
to the Virgin Mary,
then they jump
up and go into their
ceremonial
dance to celebrate
their triumph.
so great that the Indians have had to seek assistance reverence. No admittance or parking fees are charged,
in order to maintain the play in its original form for and spectators may make contributions only if they
their own religious expression. Help came from the wish to do so.
local Chamber of Commerce in the form of donations The photographs accompanying this article were
and an advisory committee to help the Yaquis work made with the permission and complete cooperation
out their secular problems. of the Pascua officials. This permission is rarely given,
Visitors are welcome if they come in a spirit of and visitors cannot make pictures without it.—END
APRIL, 1960 11
CAMELS
. . . third in a series of articles by Mr. Wame based on
his observations in Iran during his work there as Point 4
Administrator. "The Ghanat" (horizontal well) appeared
in the February issue, "Natural Ice Factories" in March.
12 DESERT MAGAZINE
had been obtained in Smyrna, Alexandria, Tunis and on my heels on the ditch bank while old Mr. Benton made
Constantinople. a fire and put the coffee can on to boil. It was a long time
before he seemed to notice me.
Once the camels had been delivered and acclimated,
Major Wayne turned them over to Lieutenant Edward F. Even at that time in our community, the story of Hi
Beale, former Superintendent of Indian Affairs in Cali- Jolly was not unknown. Generally, the people did not
fornia, who had been commissioned to open a wagon road believe there were any camels left-over from the Beale
from Fort Defiance to Southern California. It is interesting attempt, however, and they considered anyone who did
to note in Major Wayne's meticulous reports to the Secre- think so a hopeless romantic. Much later the story of
tary of War that he had packed a mature male camel with wild camels was periodically revived, but there has not
a load of 1256 pounds. been an authenticated instance of the appearance of a
camel in our desert in many, many years.
Despite the excitement that surrounded the passing of
Beale's camel caravan all along the route from San Antonio It is good to think, in a quiet hour, that somewhere
where the train departed June 25, 1857, to the Colorado north of Kerman bound for Mashed, a caravan swings
River where it arrived October 14 and on to Los Angeles, along through the Iranian desert, bearing a bundle of rugs,
the venture failed. some sacks of sugar, tinned tea, and perhaps a Hadji—a
pilgrim—returning from Mecca, his turban nodding in
In 1863 the Army ordered the camels sold, and they the sun; the brass water jug dangling from his wrist clang-
were auctioned and soon lost sight of, excepting some that ing now and then against the harness and waking the old
Lieutenant Beale, later General Beale of the Rancho "El man from his drowse. Perhaps this too is shortly to pass,
Tejon" near Bakersfield, kept on his place. It is recorded for a railroad recently has been completed to Mashed. It
that he made a striking figure "in a sulky behind a tandem connects with Khoramshar at the head of the Persian Gulf
of camels." making for a much faster journey to Mecca. The railroad
It was the order of President Lincoln in 1862 to start is already having difficulty meeting the competition of
work on a transcontinental railroad that sealed the doom planes that fly directly to Mecca from Mashed, Teheran
of the camel caravans. But, the Army's experience with and Isfahan.
camels did not go unnoticed. A merchant in San Francisco, There is no improvement without change, say we, in
Otto Eschp, imported three shipments of camels from justification of all that we have wrought. Ah, comes a
China in 1860 and 1861. These and the remnants of the question faint as conscience: but does change always im-
Army group were reported seen at various mining camps prove? When it is easy to get to Mecca, will a pilgrimage
and on expeditions and at work as far north as British be so sure a guarantee of Paradise? It has always been
Columbia. Some of these animals found their way into understood that those were most certain of reward who,
zoos, and as late as 1934 newspapers carried reports of tried beyond endurance, left their bones by the caravan-
the death of the last of them in a zoo in Los Angeles. saries in the desert beyond the gates of the Holy City.—END
Inevitably, legends grew about the camels. More than
40 years ago, around the campfires on the East Mesa in
Imperial County, California, we children used to be regaled
with stories of the camels that had been seen. Borrego
Valley was a favorite place for having seen a camel, as
were several isolated palm oases in northern Baja Califor-
nia, even whose names are now forgotten. The Chocolate
Mountains, then somehow more mysterious and romantic
than now, also were a fitting locale.
Old Mr. Benton had found one there, he said, after
hearing a camel bell in the night. Old Mr. Benton cer-
tainly was the most authentic prospector of that place and
during that day. He spent most of his time following his
burro in remote canyons looking for gold and finding it—
well, almost finding it. But even the children sensed that
sometimes old Mr. Benton embellished a story. Most of
the adults were as skeptical as their perceptions of the
feelings of old Mr. Benton would permit.
"He thought he heard a camel bell," my mother ex-
plained afterward, "and then it was easy to see a camel
in the moonlight out there in that shadowy canyon."
"Humpf!" was all that my father would say.
Camel Driver in
When old Mr. Benton came by a day or two later, one traditional coat. Sleeves
of the ranch hands climbed to the first limb of a cotton- are ornamental. I
wood tree. He shaded his eyes and peered out toward
the desert. "Yeah, here they come!" the lout yelled. "Six
of 'em coming over the Mesa, and Omar's driving 'em too!"
Old Mr. Benton walked on, looking straight ahead.
I felt so embarrassed that I followed him to his camp,
though I had set out with a different plan in mind. I sat
APRIL, 1960 13
BECAUSE I WORE
My Laura Adams Armer
The second in a series of previously unpublished articles by one of
America's most distinguished—and sensitive—authorities
on the culture of the Navajos, based on her 1923-31 experiences in Arizona.
Mrs. Armor's first story,
"Navajoland in 1923," appeared in the March Desert Magazine.
14 DESERT MAGAZINE
THE TURQUOISE
The sky-blue stones dangling from her ears
symbolized the beauty of the trail
she had come to Arizona to follow... the trail
that led backward into the guarded
past of these nomadic people...the trail some
of the tribesmen resented her
taking, while others gave kindly encouragement
"It is a white man," the Indian re- lettuce, some olive oil and lemons, a vari-colored velveteen jackets and tur-
plied. "Let the white man die in the can of lobster, also ditto of petit pois, quoise jewelry. One wore a fur hat
muddy water! Let all those white men and I ask no more." in the style of an early trapper. An-
die!" With warm hospitality he brought other's black hair was encircled by a
Roy warned the driver, then re- forth the precious imported articles red bandana. A third topped his lithe
turned to tell me what had happened. he had bought in Winslow. He made six feet with an added foot of peaked
I reassured him by insisting that the a salad of These delicacies so difficult Stetson felt.
feeling of enmity was individual. The to obtain in the wilderness. He opened The Indians had been lured in from
Indians had been mistreated by un- a can of chicken and even provided a the outer cold, urged by curiosity to
scrupulous whites, but as a whole they good cake. It was a feast. We ate see the white woman who possessed
responded to decent treatment. We happily. After dinner we sat by the picture books of Navajo lore. I had
were talking in the store. I was wear- fireplace and conversed. I went on with me Washington Matthews' ac-
ing the blue turquoise earrings. Three with my watercolor copies of the de- count of the Mountain Chant which
Navajos came in to trade. One looked signs in the rugs made by the Navajo proved an unending source of interest
like a "Bad Injun." He scowled when women. Logs in the fireplace glowed to those neophytes who were studying
he noticed the turquoise hanging from genially. Added to the acrid smell of to become medicine men. There, in
my ears. Making a motion toward cottonwood smoke, a strong muttony undisputed color and exact design,
me as if he intended to tear the gems flavor emanated from a group of four were reproductions of their sacred
away, he said to Roy: or five Indians conversing with Roy. sand paintings. White magic that,
They were a piratical-looking lot, in which gave the Indians a sense of
"The white woman must not wear
the blue stones. They are Navajo."
I continued to wear them, feeling
their magic. They were as alluring to
me as the song of Dawn Boy, wander-
ing with beauty all around him. They
were indispensable there at the Trad-
ing Post with muddy water all around.
Their blue, more brilliant than a sum-
mer sky, helped me to forget the
vengeful attitude of the two disgruntled
Indians.
In a week's time the bridges over
the Little Colorado River were passa-
ble. My host planned a Sunday trip
to Winslow to get certain supplies for
his housekeeping. I sat down near
the fireplace to cogitate upon my at-
tempt to find the "trail of beauty" that
had brought me here. In the late
afternoon the trader arrived. He was
in the best of spirits. The gloom of
the last weeks was gone. He added
a leaf to the dining table and spread
a clean white sheet upon it. He apolo-
gized for not having a tablecloth,
saying:
"The wifie took all the linen to Los
Angeles with her. Now, we're going
to have a real dinner. I'm a first-rate
salad maker. Just give me a head of "HAPPILY THE CHIEFS WILL REGARD Y O U "
APRIL, 1960 15
psychic security. They felt at home. providing this opportunity. It is the Out of sight I kept, pondering over
When I asked for explanations of the contact I needed." the accusation of witchcraft. After an
patterns woven into the rugs, an old hour or two the smiling owner of the
The road to the north was open.
silversmith who proved to be a medi- bewitched animal entered the room
It was time to move on toward Oraibi,
cine man as well, volunteered to tell with Mr. Williams. "Yahtay, Yahtay!"
the Hopi village sixty miles away. In
what he knew. He said that a certain exclaimed the Navajo.
the previous summer I had noticed
four-armed figure against a white back- scraggly peach trees growing against "That means O.K. The mare has
ground was Tsisnadzini, the sacred the bare rocks of Pumpkin Hill. How just foaled. Now, this superstitious
mountain of the east. Another pattern thrilling they would be when they burst native wishes you to paint the off-
he called clouds on a summer sky, into pink bloom! I must sketch the spring. He says you're a good medi-
white on a gray-blue background. old trees whose ancestors had come cine woman, bring him good luck,"
Only a medicine man could interpret out of Spain with the conquistadores. explained the trader.
these designs for they were derived
from the sacred sand painting lore. Roy's people at a small post north The Indian stood looking at the
As the old man waxed enthusiastic of us invited me to stay with them for painting, repeating: "Yahtay, Yah-
over his self-appointed task, a surly a few days. Life at Williams Post kept tay." He pointed to the ears of the
fellow who had had too evident con- to an even tenor. Only once did my mare indicating that they were too
tact with the whites at the railroad, activities disturb it. I was painting a long and made the pony look like a
announced that the story-teller should tired-looking mare, with an end-of- mule. He clasped my hand as he was
be paid because the curious white the-trail droop, beside a rickety hogan about to leave. Gazing at the blue
woman would make money. Roy si- with desert stretching to distant red earrings, he said reverently:
lenced him. He had no influence on mesas. The weather was beastly cold, "Nezhoni," . . . beautiful.
the inspired silversmith who answered: my fingers numb by the time I entered The news of a white-haired medi-
the store to rest. There, Mr. Williams cine woman wearing blue-sky stones
"Some people do not believe. She informed me that the Navajo who spread over the country. The Indians
believes because she loves the beauti- owned the pony said that I had cast were willing to pose in front of the
ful. She wears the turquoise." a spell upon it. The animal was sick. camera. Red Hat wanted me to paint
Spontaneously we two clasped hands his wife. I wondered if he hoped that
"It looks to me like a case of bots," the elderly Sarah would produce a
as artist to artist. I felt that I was he added. "I'm getting a pint of tur-
nearing the beautiful trail. My happi- Navajo Isaac to be the pride of his
pentine to pour down its throat. You'd old age.
ness was complete. I said to the trader: better keep out of sight. If the pony
"I can never thank you enough for gets worse, the Indian will blame you." One day there came riding on a
winter-coated pony an old medicine
man who must have been four-score-
ten or more. He was bedecked with
turquoise, white shell and coral neck-
laces. He wore turquoise in his ear
lobes. A tobacco pouch hung from
a leather strap across his right shoul-
der, the strap closely set with silver
studs. A leather bow-guard on his
right wrist indicated that the ancient
one had once hunted with bow and
arrow. The buckskin moccasins came
nearly to his knees and were bound
with woven scarlet garters. Altogether
he looked like a traveling museum of
classic old-time Navajo jewelry.
When asked to sit on the Trading
Post steps to be photographed his dig-
nity was great, his pride in his trap-
pings so evident that he rolled his
calico pants to the knees to expose the
fringed garters. When I stepped close
to him to adjust an unruly fold in his
jacket, I was vehemently repulsed. I
learned then and there that a Navajo
resents being touched. His person is
sacred. Just such an old man it must
have been in the beginning, who
begged to carry the moon across the
sky. His face showed the security of
established belief. He stood for all
the warrior strength of the ancients;
)••'.„,„•<*., . ,
all the secret wisdom of a nomad race.
—End of Part II. Next installment:
LAURA ARMER'S PAINTING, "THE MOON BEARER"
"A Visit to the Hopi"
16 DESERT MAGAZINE
DATURA
• • • a deadly killer weed shows off its
rare beauty in the desert home garden
Southwest to eradicate the four main They should be planted about three
by Jdalia C. species of datura found here: Datura
meteliodes (which grows throughout
feet apart. Varieties include D. metel,
an annual with white, blue, yellow and
the Southwest and northern Mexico); red blooms; D. suaveolens, a tall shrub
ILL OR CURE? Depends on
K how you treat the lowly Jimson
Weed of Western folklore. Like
many beautiful garden plants — fox-
Datura discolor (found on the Low
Desert of California); Datura tatula
("purple thorn apple"—a tropical na-
tive now widely distributed in Califor-
with white blooms—the common an-
gel's trumpet; and D. meteloides, a
tender perennial with rose tinted white
flowers. The latter plant is grown
gloves, solanums and oleanders—da- nia); and Datura stramonium (also commercially as a medicinal herb.
tura is a drug plant containing power- known as "Jimson weed"). Datura
ful alkaloids. Every home-gardener One datura variety, D. chlorantha,
has a string of aliases: angel's trum- with double yellow blossoms, grows
takes some risk in cultivating this plant, pet, moon flower and Jamestown weed,
letting unseen dangers be over-shad- to a height of 60 inches, with dark
to mention a few. green glossy leaves. Sometimes the
owed by visible beauty. But, this is
not the whole story, for as a drug Datura's double nature will make blossoms are cream or purple in color.
plant, datura has its good points as eradication almost impossible, for the The flowering season is early summer
well as its bad, and in any case the various species have great beauty and through late fall. The trumpet-like
drugs — atropine and hyoscyamine — are sought for landscape plantings in blossoms, similar in shape and size to
are concentrated in a few parts of the
plant, and datura is not dangerous ex-
cept when those parts are eaten. Thus,
it offers danger to children and pets.
In India, where datura originates,
mothers-in-law are commonly disposed
of by being fed the seeds of this wicked
beauty, which first make them blind
and then take their lives. Yet, curi-
ously, atropine, obtained from the
leaves and seeds of datura, is used to
dilate the eyes for optical treatment.
Its medical use is also widely known
in the treatment of asthma to relieve
bronchial spasm. Many ocean voy-
agers owe a pleasant crossing to atro-
pine when it is made up. as a drug
for overcoming motion-sickness.
Datura's narcotic properties did not
go unnoticed by the Indians of the
Southwest. The Zuni still use the
powdered root of datura in their rain
c e r e m o n i e s . Mohave I n d i a n s —
"Dreamers of the Colorado River"—
drank a concoction of datura to bring
on visions and hallucinations. Pueblo
doctors used the root of the plants for THE LOWLY JIMSON WEED IN A NEW SETTING
an anesthetic. The Cahuilla and other
California Indians made use of the some of the loveliest Southwest gar- the Easter Lily, stand rather upright
plant in their initiation rites for boys dens, whose owners prize the plant's over the top of the foliage. On a well-
stepping over the threshold into man- beauty and ignore its danger. nourished plant there may be from 10
hood. The medicine men of the Hual- "Plant datura and make friends," is to 100 blooms open at one time.
apai Indians of Arizona would utter the way one of my gardener friends Some of the ornamental datura
oracular prophesies while intoxicated puts it. "I've had people knocking at plants, if protected in winter, will do
by a datura brew. The Paiutes made my door at all hours wanting to know well in any garden. Plantings in large
an intoxicant from datura seeds. the name of all those beautiful flowers pots or tubs should be brought indoors
Death in modern times from datura in the front yard. A plant with as before the first frost.
is not restricted to Asia, for Southwest- many as 100 beautiful flowers is bound The larger seed houses have carried
ern ranchers and farmers lose stock to attract attention." datura seeds for some time, but popu-
when hungry cattle and goats eat young The garden varieties of datura are larity of the plant has diminished
datura plants. Because of this, there cultivated as annuals. These plants through the years. Today it is hard
has been a concentrated drive in the like full sunshine and good drainage. to find seeds on the market.—END
APRIL, 1960 17
Some Field Notes
on Bighorn Sheep
and other wildlife of the Santa Rosa Mountains made by
W. L. WIEDERHOEFT
during the California Department of Fish & Game's
summer sheep count
PERSPIRING STOP in the dry signs showed that the trail's only traf- out effort a flat rockless campsite was
A wash bottom was in order. I
was in a desert canyon of the
Santa Rosa Mountains of Southeast-
fic at present came from coyote, deer
and bighorn. Along one rim I saw
chukar partridge tracks, and farther
found. It was ideal for observing the
waterhole and whatever activity would
take place there.
ern California—and it was June. I on, in the wash bottom, I came across Three stones formed a hearth for
sat down by the side of the trail to the feathers of an adult chukar—evi- a tiny flame of dry twigs. Then I
regroup enough of my fast-dwindling dently where another creature had rolled-out my sleeping bag and called
energy to reach my assigned goal—a found the bird. There were coyote it a day. But 1 soon discovered that
desert spring where I was to make a scats along the trail; a check showed I was not alone at the campsite. I felt
count of bighorn sheep. most of them composed of juniper and an insect crawl up my leg. It bit—
I was one of a half-dozen "spotters" manzanita berries, though a few were hard! Some of his friends arrived to
on this California Department of Fish darker, indicating a higher content of deliver their welcoming bites. I lit a
and Game assignment. Our job was animal protein. match and saw that the ground was
to ascertain bighorn population trends, The main wash had also contained covered with a mobile mass of large
check the condition of the animals— the lower jawbone and part of the ants armed with heavy mandibles. Dis-
to obtain all possible information on vertebra column of a bighorn ewe (as cretion on my part seemed wiser than
the sheep as well as other game in the indicated by part of a nearby horn). stubbornness, and retreat was made
area. Rams, ewes, yearlings and lambs Cause of demise was unknown, but to a rockier but less-heavily populated
were to be tallied, the age of rams evidently occurred a number of years area. Several times during the night
estimated. We were to report on the prior to my visit. clattering sounds and falling rocks in-
condition of forage and water in the I rose to start back up the trail, but dicated hoofed animals moving nearby.
mountains. my wandering eye settled on a slow- The following morning was clear
My trail was an easy one to follow. moving form. Twenty yards away a and promised the same high tempera-
\ It was an old worn Indian route still
^marked by stone "ducks." Tracks and
bighorn ram slowly stepped from be- tures of the day before. Hot weather
hind a large rock, then vanished be- is the best time to count sheep, for
hind a wash bank. The dark gray they collect at waterholes during the
\ ram had three-quarter curl horns.
Lethargy vanished! After allowing
summer. With dead maguey stalks I
made a framework over some bould-
enough time to make sure the ram ers, and my sleeping bag was trans-
would not reappear farther on, I formed into a combination blind and
slipped off my pack and searched for awning.
him. But not enough energy had re- About 5:45 a.m. calls of mountain
turned; I soon gave up. Then I in- quail and Gambel's quail were heard.
vestigated the probability that the Chukars called several times, but none
sheep had been at water. Sure enough, came in to water, nor were they heard
a spring was found within feet of again. Shortly after sunrise the pro-
where I had seen him. cession of mountain quail from the
Our encounter had come at 6:45 oak-pinyon country began down the
in the late afternoon. Light was be- rock - slide to the waterhole. The
ginning to wane in the canyon bottom, groups numbered from two to 25 birds,
and because darkness would soon be and all were noisy. The birds happily
upon me, I hurried to set-up camp. I visited one another as they made their
filled two canteens at the ram's spring, way over and around the sun-weath-
" . . . I SCANNED THE SKYLINE AND then searched for a good place to camp ered boulders.
SAW A SHEEP STANDING ON A ROCK." on the opposite wash bank. Not with- Shortly after 9 o'clock I went to
18 DESERT M A"G A Z I N E
the spring to fill my canteens, and are more nervous and flighty than about, never ran, and soon went over
discovered that quail could come down those of the deliberate bighorn. the rim out of sight, about 500 feet
into water without being observed Toward noon, as the heat pushed up.
from my vantage point, so 1 moved itself heavily against the canyon walls, At 2:45 I left the blind to go to the
my bulky awning to a more strategic- I figured activity would cease, as it water and startled a drinking ewe. She,
ally-located rock-pile about 60 yards had the day before. But a clatter of too, was clear gray, but much smaller
from the water. About 10:30 I saw rocks announced a large ram, already and more lightly-built than the ram,
a pair of Gambel's quail with one nearing the spring, coming at a trot. particularly light in the hind quarters,
half-grown chick. They were hunting He went right to the water. Though and her horns were slender and goat-
rock shade. That was the last activity he was out of my sight, I could hear like. After my intrusion she bounced
I observed until 4:35 in the afternoon. him sucking the water into his throat. to the safety of the bank about us, but
The heat was great and the sun blister- After five minutes he clambered on not at breakneck speed, and arriving
ing. No animals or birds stirred in there she stopped and looked back,
my canyon oven. before moving on. Once from the top
At 4:35 I scanned the skyline and of a large rock heap she watched me
saw a sheep standing on a rock. Its for some time. Then she went up the
shaded side was ultramarine blue, its hill.
sunlit side white. Only when it turned I did a little exploring at dusk and
its head so the horn-mass darkened a dozen adult Gambel's quail were
with shadow was it discernible as a flushed from roosts in a thicket of
ram. At 5 p.m. it butted a maguey desert willow. Several great-horned
stalk, then slowly walked off the rock owls flew from rock ledge to rock
and out of sight over the ridge. ledge and gave continual rasping
Next morning a large forked-horn chirps. Underfoot, tree frogs scur-
buck deer came to the water, then ried mouselike in short quick hops
worked his way up the nose of the from cover to cover. During the day
ridge to the mountain top. His horns they trilled from the spring. California
were in velvet and he was reddish of jays, ash - throated flycatchers, and
coat. At 8:05 falling rocks heralded wrens were birds familiar to me, but
the approach of a group of four deer a number of lemon-yellow Scott's ori-
to the spring. All were large bucks oles which sang and perched on ma-
"HE LAPPED HIS LOWER LIP WITH HIS TONGUE." guey stalks were a special treat, for
with antlers in velvet. They avoided
getting nearer than four or five feet I had seldom seen them in this coun-
of one another, and when one would top of a boulder and watched me from try previously.
lower his head threateningly toward 50 yards away, turning his head when-
the deer ahead, the latter animal hur- ever his heavy horns obstructed his That night a coyote howled. I en-
riedly increased the distance between vision. He lapped his lower lip with joyed his brief song. In the ravine his
them. his tongue. He was light ash gray in yapping picked up eerie awesome tones
color—even to the horns which had from the canyon walls.
When the deer reached the spring, a three-quarter curl and five growth What chance would a bighorn have
my scent threw them into wild-eyed rings. At times his back ridge line against a coyote? An experience I had
alarm. They searched the surround- showed a hint of tan. At 12:20 he in the Chuckawalla Mountains of
ings closely. Houndlike, with muzzle went to the wash bottom to water Southeastern California convinced me
to the ground, one of the deer followed again, then watched me from 85 yards that coyotes are no threat to sheep. I
my scent until he lost it in dry sand. away. Again the impression was of a was exploring the Chuckawallas with
Finally reassured, they drank, then fed sleek massive body on slim legs, which, my year-old Norwegian elkhound when
and wandered about on the rock slide. along with the head, are rawboned we caught sight of a fleeing big-
Boldly they crossed loose rock, and rather than tapering as in the deer. At horn ewe and its tiny lamb. The dog
when an animal above the others 12:25 he started up the mountain, darted in immediate pursuit, and on
started rocks falling, those below choosing to pick his way up the rock the slope it came up to within 10 feet
bounded out of the way. All these slide. He paused occasionally to peer of the lamb. But when the larger
deer were alike in heaviness of shoul-
der, depth of brisket and exceptionally
heavy forearm muscles. I wonder if
these traits are developed as racial
characteristics by these rugged moun-
tains.
The smallest buck seemed constant-
ly out of sorts; possibly this was his
area and the others were intruders.
Once he faced another buck and both
reared and struck each other with
sharp forefeet. The larger deer broke
off this engagement and bounded down
the slide. The smaller one slowly
climbed the mountainside in the di-
rection from whence they had come, A SHEEP fN
stopping often to look back, still grum- CENSUS y
py. The others dropped into the wash HEADQUARTERS
bottom and fed on the green growth.
Deer actions, I jotted in my notebook,
APRIL, 1960 19
rocks were reached, both bighorns spread horns. The left horn of one Indian friend "a dollar for every big-
bounded from rock to rock and gained was smaller than his right. The big- horn you bring me."
distance on the pursuing dog. The gest ram began to drink and the other The Indian knew of a hidden seep
lamb went over the ridge and out of two trotted up. All three tried to in the mountains — a vital watering
sight, but the ewe stopped a hundred drink simultaneously, and side-butted place for the sheep and therefore a
yards from where it had started to and pushed for access to the best perfect place to hunt the animals. In
run away from my elkhound. She basin, for there was little water. time the Indian brought in over a
turned, arched her neck and brought Twice two rams came face to face, hundred sheep to the settler.
forward spiked horns. and each time they lowered heads and In later years the Indian showed
The dog came to a halt and half- banged horns with a loud impact, but the settler's two sons his sheep seep,
turned, uncertain. The ewe quickly seemingly without animosity or ill ef- and they also jealously kept its loca-
made up the dog's mind. She ad- fect. Perhaps this was their form of tion to themselves as a good hunting
vanced with deliberativeness. The dog salutation. Soon the biggest ram place. When the settler's sons passed
retreated, but the ewe stayed right on moved to the top of a boulder 20 feet from youth into middle age most of
its flank and bumped it twice with her up. He must have spied me then, for this area was included within the
boundaries of Anza State Park and
poaching on the sheep severely dis-
couraged.
Finally, the two guardians of the
secret of the seep spoke of it to several
friends who delighted in jeeping over
the desert. The settler's sons even ac-
companied two of the desert explorers
to the sheep waterhole. Wetness
seeped from seams in the rock, but
there was no standing water. To ob-
tain moisture, the larger animals re-
sorted to licking the moist rocks—or
digging for it in the not-always-moist
sand. The men got out their equip-
ment, and the beating of metal on
rock rang out in the canyon. It was
slow work, but after several hours two
pockets were chipped out of the boul-
der under the face of the spring. Into
"THE EWE QUICKLY MADE UP THE DOG'S MIND. SHE ADVANCED WITH DELIBERATIVENESS." each of these "tanks" trickled a quart
of water — considerably more than
head. The second bump sent the dog the two other animals leaped up the nothing.
sideways off a large rock. Here the same bank. I stepped out and after Several more times in the following
elkhound growled, but didn't slow a bit they walked and trotted to a months the men returned. After more
down its flight and ran to where I was trail. Once there they stopped to work with hammer and gad, the two
standing. The bighorn stood for some watch me make my awkward way back pockets held over a gallon of water.
time about 30 feet away from us, bob- to another world. The men plan further trips into the
bing her head purposefully. Finally There is a footnote to my story that area to increase the size of the tanks.
she turned and walked back to the is both significant and revealing. It Now the water seep will help save
ridge top, then followed the crestline shows how time has changed man's at- the sheep, increase their numbers and
to where her baby was waiting. titude toward the rare bighorn. enable them to water away from more
Many years ago in the Anza Desert exposed areas where poachers might
The ewe had not seemed highly south of the Santa Rosa Mountains get them. At least that is the hope
angered with the dog, merely irritated there lived a settler who had a taste of the two who chiseled the water
and seemingly determined to put the for barbecued bighorn. He offered an tanks at the seep.—END
canine on the right track. It seemed
to me, too, that she did not try to
harm the dog, although had they been
on a precipice it would have been the
end for my elkhound.
Summary of Sheep Surveys
The following morning, after sev- What has the Department of Fish and Game learned from its
eral hours of fruitless scanning, I bighorn sheep surveys of 1953, '58 and '59 in the Santa Rosa Moun-
started back. Despite the heat and tains? Bonnar Blong, F&G Game Manager stationed at Idyllwild,
ants I was sorry to leave the tranquil presents this summary:
canyon. Actually I had never been 1. The bighorn sheep range is generally below 4000 feet eleva-
alone here, nor was I lonely. tion in the Santa Rosa Mountains.
2. Water distribution in the summer months appears to limit the
Just as I was leaving the tank I re- size of the total bighorn population. In '59 a number of the springs
ceived a farewell treat—a large big- were dry and the sheep had left these areas.
horn appeared a mere 15 yards away.
I froze. On the bank above I saw
3. The bighorn population in these mountains has as many adult
two more, both gray, both with three-
rams as adult ewes.
quarter curl horns. 4. The low percentage of lambs that survive indicates the popu-
lation is in a static condition.
Whereas the previous day's ram had 5. Total population of bighorns in the Santa Rosas is estimated
a thin goatlike face and close horns, at 350—a figure the Department considers "conservative."
these had short thick faces and wide-
20 DESERT MAGAZINE
BY
UTAH'S BASEMENT HOMES FRANK
JENSEN
ME A house by the side of the road!" sang lers to remodel their houses aboveground. As a result, the
the poet. Had the writer of that deathless line sunken home is rapidly disappearing from the Utah scene.
lived in Utah, he might have changed his tune to: The idea of living in a basement was not born in the
". . . by the side and slightly below the level of the road," Depression. In the late 1800s when Utah was still a terri-
for the Beehive State has its own peculiar roadside abode tory and the West not entirely tamed, the Federal Govern-
in the form of "basement houses." These "half-under" ment cracked down on polygamy in the Great Basin strong-
dwellings protrude from the ground like so many glorified hold of Mormonism. Those Latter Day Saints who
sod huts. Some look like misplaced bomb shelters. espoused the cause of plural marriage were forced either
Actually, these homes are victims of the Depression to flee the country, or hide out. While the two-storied po-
'30s when a house could be built for less than $1000, but lygamist home had ample space aboveground, it sometimes
a day's work consisted of standing in a breadline. had a small — and secret — underground cellar equipped
with bedding and food.
The basement home was ordinarily dug out by hand,
a method that required months of backbreaking labor. A One descendant of a Utah pioneer told me how her
more mechanized approach was to use a horse-drawn family would nail down the rug over the trap-door when
scraper shaped something like a sugar-scoop. One man the Federal agents came to town. The children, who or-
would lead the team while the other guided the scraper. dinarily slept on the floor, would lay out their straw-filled
The hazards of this work were legion, and the operator ticks on the carpet. She remembers the marshals stepping
who chanced to hit a root or rock was sometimes flipped on her pig-tails as they searched the house—while father
into the middle of the doubletree. was comfortably secreted below.
Once the basement was excavated it was ready for Need for spaciousness in the pioneer polygamous home
concrete. More often than not this meant hauling gravel is self evident. A story is still told in southern Utah of a
for miles with a wagon equipped with a removable bottom rosy-cheeked schoolboy of the early 1900s who was asked
through which the load was dumped. The cement mixer, on his first day in school to write the names of his brothers
in contrast to today's behemoths, was a one-lung affair and sisters. "You want all of them?" he inquired glumly,
with a large flywheel based on a modification of the steam "There's only 45!"
engine. Putting up forms for the concrete was a job in For nearly a century pioneer architecture has set the
itself that required a week or more to accomplish. But, pattern in Utah. These homes were as austere as they were
there was no need for outer forms—the smoothed-off dirt large. The walls rise to a plain gabled roof. Construction
wall served that purpose. Also eliminated was the need was usually of adobe or sandstone. The rectangular home
for fancy exterior facing and the usual complement of was good enough for grandfather and is still sound con-
doors and windows. struction today. The small crowded sunken homes—babies
Most of the original basement homes were capped with of the Depression—were only an innovation in the passing
a subfloor and tar-paper to keep the rain out. With this scene.
"roof" in place, the family was ready to move in. If and In recent years Utahans have become less conservative-
when there was enough money, a real aboveground home minded and are demanding something more to live in than
could be built onto the basement. Some folks decided the a box with a roof on it. Contemporary architecture with
basement was adequate, and a gabled roof rose from the its low rambling silhouette has come into vogue in the
ground (see accompanying photograph). These were "de- metropolitan as well as in a few of the rural areas of the
luxe models," nearly on a par cost-wise with conventional state. Even with the trend toward modernization, how-
homes. ever, Utah homes still retain many of the practical easy-
At the end of World War II, low cost government- to-live-with features their pioneer forebears took for granted.
approved loans made it possible for many basement dwel- —END
•••-••*••+*< , * * » , . . .
APRIL, 1960 21
AHisf
CHAWS REYNOLDS
of has
his canvases depict the New Mexico outdoor scene
she was sick he finished some of her orful old Indian and Spanish com-
work for her. It proved immediately munities, and they provide unlimited
PORTRAIT OF CHARLES REYNOLDS BY FEL- popular, and he decided then and there opportunities for painting and selling.
LOW NEW MEXICO ARTIST BETTINA STEINKE
to paint professionally. Also, I wanted to be associated with
"I learned to paint by painting," the 'Taos greats' — Phillips, Sharp,
By W. Thetford LeViness Reynolds says. "After I'd painted a Higgins and the others. All these men
number of farm scenes and aspens and were alive when I first settled in Taos,
missions I knew how to make them and it was a source of deep satisfac-
AOS, NEW MEXICO, is widely look pleasing. Then came the hard tion to me to live in their midst and
T acclaimed as one of the South-
west's most important art centers.
Nestled in the foothills of the Sangre
task of learning the rudiments of good
painting—composition, for example—
and incorporating them into my work."
get to know them personally."
Reynolds is a confirmed realist. As
such, he believes that when a tourist
de Cristo Mountains and on a high This "painting to perfection" is the comes to Taos to buy a painting it's
plateau above the Rio Grande, Taos essence of Reynolds' technique. He usually something of New Mexico he
began to attract artists before the turn took a six-weeks' course at the Chi- wants—a piece that will remind him
of the century. Studios were estab- cago Art Institute and once was a of his visit in this area. Reynolds has
lished, galleries built. For more than pupil of John Elliott Jenkins. Other- overwhelming enthusiasm for the tra-
60 years Taos has had its "name art- wise Reynolds is self-taught. But he ditional, and therefore handles only
ists"—men and women of sound repu- does adobe houses and spring morn- conservatives in his gallery. Those
tation among critics of the nation and ings, mountain streams and desert who sell there include Bettina Steinke
the world. vistas with as much imagination as the portraitist, Doel Reed, and Stanley
One of the foremost artists in Taos some who have spent a decade or more Bettise, a Navajo who draws upon his
today is Charles H. Reynolds, best in art classes. Perspective, foreshort- cutural background for subject matter.
known for landscapes which depict ening and other aspects of lineal the- There's a long list of other Taos artists
the New Mexico scene. He markets ory seem to come naturally to Charlie represented-—Leal Mack, P. A. Moore,
his paintings almost entirely through Reynolds. Ted DeGrazia, Richard Schmid and
his own gallery, although he will oc- Eugene Dobosiewicz, to mention a few.
The artist "discovered" Taos in Reynolds also markets a few master-
casionally hold an exhibition outside 1932. Every year thereafter he and
the state. "If you get to Taos, be sure pieces by deceased Taosenos—O. E.
Ruth would go there for several weeks, Berninghaus and Sheldon Parsons, for
to bring back a Reynolds," say satis- and they'd make field trips to other
fied clients in many parts of the coun- example.
parts of northern New Mexico. They
try who have visited his gallery and became increasingly familiar with the Reynolds has a sort of "sixth sense"
purchased there. Indians of this section—Pueblo, Nav- of appraisal, and he prices his paint-
Reynolds was born in Kiowa, In- ajo and Jicarilla Apache. Charlie was ings accordingly. He never undersells
dian Territory, in 1902. Indian Terri- inspired, and he soon began to "cap- —either his own work or that of others
tory became a part of Oklahoma, the ture" the lives of these tribesmen on in his gallery. Every painting in the
46th state, in 1907, and Charlie was his canvases. He moved to Taos per- place has a price on the back of it,
educated at its biggest schools. He manently in 1946, and rented space and if it goes at all that is what it
attended the University of Oklahoma for a gallery the following year. Then goes for. "I don't believe in bargain-
and the University of Tulsa, and as a he bought some land in the downtown ing," he says. "It cheapens art to do
young man was a pharmacist. He section of the city, constructed the that sort of thing."
studied accounting too, and became present Reynolds Gallery, and opened Although he works chiefly in oils,
chief clerk to the treasurer of a large it in 1950. He sells paintings by sev- Reynolds uses water colors with equal
Oklahoma oil company. Later, he eral other Taos artists, and Ruth runs facility. His paintings seem to suit best
served as secretary-treasurer to an a gift shop in one wing of the building. the tastes of the average American art
engineering laboratory. Their son, Charles, Jr., does some buyer—a reason, of course, for Reyn-
He got into painting in 1925, almost wood sculpture and sells it there. olds' amazing popularity. The paint-
by accident. He was living in Tulsa "I was drawn to Taos by the in- ings are usually New Mexico scenes
with his wife, Ruth, who did some comparable beauty of the country," with a universal appeal—sheepherding
home decorative art. One time when Reynolds says. "New Mexico has col- on the Navajo Reservation, ranching
22 DESERT MAGAZINE
"Edge of the Apple Orchard"
APRIL, 1960 23
rado, Arizona and New Mexico. Its
leaves grow in bundles of two.
A PINYON PATRIARCH
APRIL, 1960
T HROUGHOUT THE Desert Southwest
one variety or another of the agave or
Century Plants
some plants is strikingly effective the year
round.
There is only one disadvantage to this usage
—after the plant which may have been the
piece de resistance of your desert garden sends
DESERT MAGAZINE
DIRTY SOCK
• • • A "For Free" Spa on the Mojave Desert
BY MARGUERITE JENKINS
APRIL, 1960 27
derstandably no longer serviceable, Migrant ducks, geese, herons and Each weekend and holiday finds cars
were left in the pool. These discarded pelicans flock to "The Sock" and stay loaded with Dirty Sock devotees. They
pieces of apparel supposedly marked for weeks growing fat on the algae and picnic, camp-out under the sun and
the spa for subsequent weary, dirty peculiar mosquito fish. The latter, stars or bring their trailers. Many stay
and thirsty travelers. Actually, the which bear their young alive, appeared for weeks. The families who vacation
in the lake about four years ago and at Dirty Sock find richness in the
highly mineralized water smells like have been thriving and multiplying seeming barrenness of the 45 Vi acres
a dirty sock — or, more succinctly, ever since. which comprise The Sock area.
like many!
At one time, Thorson leased Dirty Youngsters sculpture in the clay
This doesn't seem to faze the Sock to a promoter who was going to (Mother uses it for a beauty mask!),
people who drink it and make fan- make Palm Springs look to its laurels. collect sandstone oddities, observe the
tastic claims for its benefits. They Unfortunately, all that remains of the water-birds by day and the coyotes,
come from all over the United States $150,000 purportedly spent here is a foxes and rabbits by night. The kids
to fill their bottles with the fully car- small lake and a concrete swimming play in the sand, slide down the dunes,
bonated, mineral, radio-active water. pool 80 feet in diameter. That the roam and explore, swim and grow
That it tastes like the white of an egg waters of Dirty Sock do not gush from healthy and brown. There is no
doesn't seem to bother them either, the impressive fountain in the pool as
charge, no watchman.
because they keep returning for re- was planned is only one story in a
fills. long series of misfortunes that stalked For 40 years the Indian and the
the venture. The septic tanks and white, the young and the old, the sick
Bathing in Dirty Sock is like bath- complete sewer system also remain, and the well have come to Dirty Sock.
ing in champagne—if you hold your but what high-graders left of the build- It has never been known to stop flow-
nose. The curative claims made for ings, vandals destroyed by fire. ing.—END
this delightful recreation are as en-
thusiastic as those for drinking it. The
sensation, midway between relaxation
and exhilaration, is undoubtedly due
to the escaping gases with which the
water bubbles. In the high heat of
POEM OF THE MONTH
summer when the sun is baking the
newly risen dunes, and the wind, white
with soda dust, is blistering, the 94°
temperature of the water is relatively
cool and refreshing. In the winter
when the world is white from the
Sierra to the Coso Mountains, the
steaming warmth of the vapor-
Ghost Town Mansion
shrouded pool is haven from the still By ETHEL JACOBSON
white, now bitter, regaling wind.
Fullerton, California
Only the uninitiated would think of
drying with a towel after a swim.
Members of the Dirty Sock fraternity
come out of the pool all bubbly, and Delicate cobwebs dress
wait stoically until the last bubble has These empty windows now
popped. Skin will itch like crazy if That look on nothingness,
you dry with a towel. Only a smoke tree bough
Dirty Sock enthusiasts will assure Where, silent as the house,
you that its joys and benefits are not A small owl sits to stare
limited to bathing and drinking. There At what might be a mouse
is also the surrounding clay which they Beneath a broken chair.
allege has peculiar curative properties.
And the algal growth which forms
continuously in the pool and the adja- Once these webs were lace
cent lake is used as therapeutically as Convent-loomed in France,
the clay. Carnegie Institute experts And laughter filled this place
see more importance in algae as a Where only shadows dance.
food, however. Dirty Sock is a natural A thousand candles lit
laboratory for the practical applica- The festive scene 'til dawn,
tion of the concept of feeding the
world with the one-celled plant of Where now two gray bats flit
plenty. Because of the unusual com- And only stars look on.
bination of mineral properties, tem-
perature, and the high content of car-
bon dioxide and nitrogen, this water-
hole produces algae in abundance. It Desert Magazine pays $5 each month for the poem chosen by the judges
is this algae which makes Dirty Sock to appear in the magazine. To enter this contest simply mail your type-
smell like one. The water itself is written poem {must be on a desert subject) to Poetry Contest, Desert
Magazine, Palm Desert, Calif. Please include a stamped return envelope.
odorless.
28 DESERT MAGAZINE
In the history of
SOUTHWEST PHOTO TIPS
Desert Quiz the Southwest a
few names stand
out above others because of some spe-
cial part they played in the exploration
and conquest of the desert country.
From the list of names at the bottom
CAPTURING COLOR
of this column fill in the 20 blanks be-
low. A score of 12-14 correct answers By BOB RIDDELL
is "fair"; 15-17 is "good"; 18 or better,
"excellent." Answers are on page 30.
HE EASTMAN Company reports setting in bright sunlight is 1/50 sec. at
1, He was a great Paiute warrior chief:
a—John Wetherill
b—William Lewis Manly
c—J. Lorenzo Hubbell
d—Winnemucca
Water Skiing on the CV.
e—C. R. Rockwood
f—Eusebio Kino
g—Bill Williams Fun and Adventure
h—Shorty Harris
i—Edward F. Beale Waits for You in
j—Juan Bautista de Anza
k—Kit Carson
1—Lew Wallace
m—Ike Clanton Discover Utah this summer...
the land of color and contrast...
n—Brigham Young run its rivers. . . explore its vast
Utah Tourist 8 Publicity Council
Dept. 167 State Capitol
o—Henry Comstock wilderness a r e a . . . relax in its lake- Salt take City. Utah
p—George Wharton James dotted mountain country. Enjoy its cities,
q—Frederic Remington t o w n s . . . its historic shrines... its year-
around vacation variety.
r—John D. Lee
s—Geronimo FREE TRAVEL KIT! Complete guide to all
t—J. W. Powell attractions, highway map and list of events.
APRIL, 1960 29
Name of this show is "Potpourri—Flowers Mojave Yuccas will be blooming, and the
and Fixin's." The Desert Museum in Palm unpredictable Joshua Trees should be seen.
Springs stages a flower show on April 9. A few off-season ones were blooming in
February. The Whipple Yucca, at the west-
Two Mojave Desert shows are set for ern edge of the Colorado Desert, is due to
April 23-24. The Hi Vista Spring and bloom, and in the same area there will be
Wildflower Festival (east of Lancaster) has Scarlet Buglers and other Penstemons, Buck-
long been a big event, and at China Lake wheats, Sage, Pigmy Fir on rocky walls,
in NOTS boundaries, enthusiastic residents and some Agaves may start before month's
have been educating and delighting crowds end.
for many years with spectacular exhibits.
This will be the 16th annual China Lake One of the desert's most gorgeous flowers
Wildflower Show—this year called "Desert is the Kennedy Mariposa, a flaming orange.
Enchantment." Visitors can obtain passes Some years it is rarely seen but sometimes
to the Naval Station's Community Center it may cover a hillside, as in certain spots
Building at the Station's main gate. in Joshua Tree National Monument, north
of Yucca Valley, Providence Mountain
In Death Valley, if there should be a area, north slopes of El Paso Mountains.
By Lucile Weight "wonderful" display, there will be flower Often in the same area are Mojave Yucca,
P.O. Drawer 758, Twentynine Palms, Calif. tours, says Chief Park Naturalist Wm. C. orchid Thistle Sage, Scarlet Paintbrush, yel-
Bullard. His early forecast sounds like low Desert Plume.
N AGAIN, off again! That's how desert those of many desert veterans who are too
O wildflower seasons often are. While
1959-60 fall and winter have been
generally dry. warm weather lasted unusu-
experienced to make advance commitments: This is the most important month for
"It is rather hard to predict now what is cactus flowers, the Beavertail this month
going to happen to our flower display. . . . blooming in higher elevations, the Straw-
ally long and local rains gave plants a good The winter rains have been rather favorable, berry, the Chollas and Mammillarias.
start in many scattered locations. So that but whether they came at just the right Just a name-listing of the main April
is how visitors are likely to find good period we are not sure. If pushed out on flowers would more than fill this page. If
flower spots this spring—scattered. That is, a limb we might say that the prospects will the elements allow, you will see flowers on
if the following elements don't cancel out be at least for an average year. If we get nearly every desert road. You may discover
early showings: A sudden cold spell and some more rain it might even be better." some wonderful gardens—perhaps at that
a series of cold hard winds in late February
—and truckloads of sheep hauled from one Not only do many annuals reach their desert's edge from Warner's Ranch to Agua
flower patch to another. height in early April, but the perennials Caliente, Borrego Valley vicinity. Harper
Dry Lake-Black and Opal Mountain area,
now add their color. In the lower deserts Ord Mountains, Providence - New York
Those who want to get better acquainted the Ocotillo usually is at its most brilliant: Mountains, Red Rock-El Paso Mountains.
with wildflowers this spring will be able to near canyons and washes the shrubby Chu-
see flowers identified at shows throughout parosa is dark crimson; along washes the Don't forget your camera for a photo
the desert in April. One of the first sched- Desert Orchid Willow (Chilopsis) starts record of your finds, your wildflower book
uled is for April 2-3 in Morongo Valley in blooming, as do the Mesquite and Catsclaw. to check their identities, your visit to at
Ritchie Fontaine Desert Room, combining The Palo Verde tree is usually at its most least one wildflower show to learn flower
wildflowers, cactus, desert woods. Also set golden in April, and in the same areas may names the easy way. Service stations may
for these dates is the second annual flower be seen the tall graceful Desert Lavender have local information.
show of the Oasis Garden Club of Indian and the old-gold flowered rounded shrub
Wells Valley, to be held in Ridgecrest. Bebbia or Chuckawalla's Delight. And remember, there are laws against
picking or destroying a plant or flower—
unless you're a sheep or cow!
Scheduled in California for April are
GET INTO THE these events:
April 2-3—Annual DeAnza Jeep Caval-
cade. For reservation blanks write to the
WIDE OPEN C of C, Hemet.
April 23-24, April 30-May 1, May 7-8—
33rd presentation of the Ramona pageant
at the Ramona Bowl near Hemet. For
12 IMPORTANT FEATURES ticket information write to Box 218, Hemet.
• Beautiful finished all ash interiors —END
• Two under-seat storage chests
• Full length, key-locked door
• Custom-built for your truck DESERT QUIZ ANSWERS
• Ribbed Aluminum exterior
• One inch fiberglas insulation Questions arc on page 29
• Louvered, screened windows
• Two dome lights 1. d—Winnemucca
• Linoleum floor 2 k—Kit Carson
• Formica-topped table 3. 1—Lew Wallace
• Two handy front cabinets
• Two rear utility cabinets The DELUXE KAMPER offers these additional 4. e—C. R. Rockwood
features and deluxe appointments 5. s—Geronimo
6. b—Wm. Lewis Manly
• Ice box and Storage Cabinet at the rear, easily
accessible from outside the Kamper. 7. n—Brigham Young
• Two Louvered Windows on each side 8. g—Bill Williams
• CeiLing Vent 9. t—J. W. Powell
• Assist Handle at the entrance door 10. i—Edward F. Beale
• Off-white exterior finish 11. a—John Wetherill
12. p—George Wharton James
DELU.XE KAMPER 13. j—Juan Bautista de Anza
Recommended for Long-Bed 14. f—Eusebio Kino
15. r—John D. Lee
Write bhone or CO! 16. m—Ike Clanton
17. q—Frederic Remington
short-bed truck S39"> and ' 2 ton
KAMPERS KABIN 18. c—J. Lorenzo Hubbell
15)54 Stagg St., Van Nuys, Calif 19. h—Shorty Harris
lone bed truck S-420. Phone STate 6-2273
20. 0—Henry Comstock
A I . U M I N ' l ' M T R l ' C K COVERS AS LOW AS SI09.00 (plus
30 DESERT MAGAZINE
seeing the best available: go to the spots
where the thickest and most diverse stands
of desert plantlife are located.
That's fairly simple here, even if you
don't want to get on jeep trails where,
incidentally, adventurous travelers discover
many hidden floral sights. What's more,
the foremost sections can be linked to form
a grand tour through the southern sector
of the Grand Canyon State. Chances are
that April will see a spectacular wildflower
show in these parts.
Some 70 miles northwest of Phoenix—
along State 93 a short distance after it BEAUTIFUL CREAMY-WHITE SAGUARO BLOSSOMS
By THOMAS B. LESURE
leaves Congress Junction for the Kingman-
6120 N. 18th St., Phoenix Lake Mead area—is the state's largest (and for seeing a variety. It means a leisurely
one of the few) Joshua Tree forests. The drive, though, for speeding motorists miss
NE OF THE biggest guessing games landscape—dotted with hundreds of the most of the flowers. But then, that's quite
O each spring in Arizona concerns the
extent of the desert floral bloom—
whether the wildflowers and cacti will blos-
strange trees and backed by serrated moun-
tains — almost seems snowed-under when
the Joshuas' white bell-flowers are "ringing."
proper since a thing of beauty is something
to be lingered over and cherished—as God
and nature intended.
som in abundance or meagerness. Yet no Directly north of Phoenix, about a half Arizona is a busy place in April. Here
matter whether the bloom is showy or hour drive from the capital city, lies Cave are some of the outstanding events sched-
sketchy, there's a way to make sure of Creek. Around the south slopes of Black uled:
Mountain, particularly, and along numer-
ous good dirt roads in the immediate vicin- April 1-2—Science Fair at Arizona State
ity are thick stands of yellow-blossomed University, Tempe.
prickly pears, claret cup hedgehogs, saguaro April 1-10—2nd Annual National Sports
and some flaming ocotillo. Jamboree, Mesa.
In Papago Park on the Phoenix east- April 2-3—University of Arizona Rodeo
side, the Desert Botanical Garden is a man- at Tucson.
made venture that emphasizes the plant- April 2-3—Heard Museum Fair, Phoenix.
life of the Sonoran Desert. But there are April 6-10—8th Annual Yuma County
hundreds of arid country types from all Fair, Yuma.
over the world, and the self-guided nature
trails make it easy to identify the great April 22—San Xavier Fiesta with night-
variety with an ease that's enjoyable. time celebration at the Mission.
East of Phoenix, the Superstition Moun- April 30-May 1—Arizona State College
tain area—and the entire desert expanse Spring Rodeo, Flagstaff.
south of Florence toward Tucson—is one April 30-May 1—Fiesta de la Placita,
of the West's most superb natural gardens. Tucson. The colorful Children's Parade
Saguaros, chollas, prickly pears, teddy takes place on the 30th.—END
bears, barrels, fish hooks, yuccas, ocotillos
—in fact, practically the works, all thrive
in this scenic region threaded by numerous
dirt roads off the main highways. And citd HIDDEN TREASURES
near the eastern range of this garden is the
Southwestern Arboretum in the shadow of GOLD, SILVER, PRECIOUS METALS with t h . Famous Model
27 Metal Detector. Lightweight, ultra-seiuillve, low
jutting Picket Post Mountain. Like its cost. None finer. Also GEIGER COUNTERS for uranium
Phoenix counterpart, it shows off, via na- and the VIOLITE for tungsten. INFORMATION FREE .
ture trails and more rugged hiking paths, RIIV ^ ^ ^ i ^ ^ ^ " ^ ^ ^ ^ " ^ ^ "Superior"
some 10,000 varieties of desert flora. " U I LJeleclwr^ INSTRUMENTS.
Saguaro National Monument, east of Ofttn Copied — Never Excelled
Tucson, is especially noted for its vast
array of giant cactus. But it has many
Bill Hoy photo other species plus good opportunities to
observe wildlife. Tucson Mountain Park, Metal Detectors
on the other side of the city, has saguaro More accurate, it's the first metal detector
APRIL, 1960 31
SOUTHWEST NEWS BRIEFS
YOUR ••••
CAMP •I The Painted Rock flood control C| The Bureau of Sport Fisheries and,
dam, 30 miles northwest of Gila Wildlife has requested withdrawal
of more than 5914
CHEF! mg JJam
Bend, Ariz., has been
completed t h r e e
On the Gila m o n t h s a h e a d o f
Land for
Waterfowl
Valley
acres of public land
in the White River
of Nevada for stabilization
schedule. The $19 million project is
intended to provide protection for of the Sunnyside Wildlife Manage-
farms, towns, highways, irrigation ment Area, the "Nevada State Jour-
projects and defense installations nal" reports. The area, located 32
along the Gila River downstream miles south of Lund, will be adminis-
from the dam site. The U.S. Army tered by the State Fish and Game
Corps of Engineers said the new Commission and will provide public
dam can hold 2,491,700 acre feet of hunting grounds and nesting, feed-
water—more than the capacity of ing and resting areas for waterfowl.
all the storage dams on the Salt and
Verde rivers. The dam is reached <I Arizona is irked at its former "al-
by a 16-mile access road off U.S. 80, lies" in the historic battle over rights
14' miles west of Gila Bend. to the mighty Colo-
Arizona Mad rado River's water
at "Allies" and power. The Up-
t| The dream of Utahans to see Wa- per Basin States, which Arizona sup-
satch Mountain Park joining the
ported against California in the fight
„ , _ , undeveloped scenic
to construct Glen Canyon Dam, have
Utah Park w e s t - s i d e of the intervened to oppose Arizona's bid
It's quick to cook... it's light to pack
Development H e b e r V a l l e v w i t h to construct Bridge Canyon Dam
... it tastes terrificI For example ...
the Wasatch National Forest is near- near Grand Canyon. Arizona's ap-
KAMP-PACK ing reality, the "Salt Lake Tribune" plication, now pending before the
reports. A group of Wasatch County Federal Power Commission, is ex-
Mm 9b. 3 residents are undertaking to acquire pected to be challenged by Califor-
... one of 7 delicious daily diets avail- 500 acres of farmland at the junc- nia, too, which also seeks to build
able in 4-man and 8-man envelopes. tion of Snake Creek and Pine Creek, the Bridge power dam.
BREAKFAST
west of Midway. This would be
Ginger Buttermilk Griddle Cakes made available in one unit to the (I Utah Calcium Co. is putting a
Maple Syrup State Park and Recreation Commis- $150,000 plant and mine into opera-
sion and would serve as a nucleus Onyx Mine t i o n n e a r D e l l e To
' "
Hot Chocolate
for a state park. If this park core is 'Rediscovered' o e l e C °unty, i n c o m ;
LUNCH
obtained, the state commission will mercial rediscovery
Spanish Rice with Creole Flavor undertake to secure options on some of an important Utah mineral—white
Hot Biscuits Fruit Punch 9500 acres of mountain lands adja- carbonate onyx. The "Salt Lake
DINNER cent to the Wasatch National Forest. Tribune" says the deposit of arago-
Cream of Chicken Soup If the plan goes through, there will nite mineral, a very high-purity cal-
Camper's Stew be created here a matchless outdoor cium carbonate, was discovered at
Banana Pudding recreational area of national signifi- the turn of the century. The mine
Chocolate Milk Shake cance, project spokesmen say. has had three "lives." Initially, the
Supplemenlarles:
material was quarried for building
Miracle sponge and detergent, vege- C| Leaders of the Colorado River In- trade. Then came a period when
table shortening, salt, hard candies dian Tribes are seeking ways to curb the "onyx" was ground-up and sold
and toilet tissues. ^ ,. "parental delinquen- to the chicken-feed industry of the
Moisture-proof, light-weight packag- Delinquent c y / .T h e T r i b a l region. Today, the material is again
ing. No refrigeration required. Meats Indians Council was recent- being ground-up, but it is going to
packed in our own U. S. Govt. in- ly requested by the police to do producers of cast building stone and
spected plant! Select from 120 items! something about children who run distributors of landscape gravel.
the streets while their parents are
MAIL COUPON TO NEAREST PLANT
either in the "bar or other places <J The U.S. Bureau of Mines is seek-
Bernard Food Industries, Inc., Dept. DAA until all hours of the morning." First ing $704,000 in funds to continue
217 N. Jefferson St., Chicago 6, Illinois step will be to establish a temporary research in finding
1208 E. San Antonio St., San Jose, Calif.
Shale an inexpensive way
facility for unattended youngsters Research
165 Pemberton, No. Vancouver, B. C. whom the police pick-up in the town to extract oil from
Please send me complete information and of Parker. Parents would be held rock deposits in the West. Officials
price list for KAMP-PACK foods. responsible for children picked-up as say that shale deposits in Utah,
Name_ to cost of transportation, food and Wyoming and Colorado "constitute
other expenses. If the parents are a potential supply of oil to supple-
Address. unable to pay these costs in cash, ment petroleum in meeting rapidly
City _State_ they will have to pay in manual growing demands for the nation's
L labor. welfare and defense."
32 DESERT MAGAZINE
vied in offering service to the city from
FIND BURIED TREASURE! three directions. Rhyolite had everything
GOLD, s i l v e r , coins, a desert city could want—fine hotels, big
i e w e l r v . strongboxes, stores, beautiful homes, imposing buildings
battle relics! M-SCOPE to house its commercial and fraternal life,
transistorized electronic a railroad station that was one of the fanci-
Treasure-Metal Locators
detect them all. Used est in the West, enough bars and casinos
world-wide by successful to provide a different locale for revelry
explorers. Exciting! Re-
warding! Super-sensitive, every night of the month. Rhyolite was a
lightweight M-SCOPE big city teeming with big business and big
offers greater depth pen- plans. It had everything except an inex-
etration, no ground in-
t e r f e r e n c e , over 200 haustible supply of gold.
treasure-hunting days of The town died as suddenly as it had
battery life. Indestruc-
tible fiberglass cases. Guaranteed. From boomed. By 1910 only 675 people rattled
$59.50, Easy Terms. Write today for FREE about in the skeleton of its bigness. Today
catalog. By Peggy Trego you may find a half-dozen inhabitants, but
FISHER RESEARCH LAB. INC. Unionville, via Imlay, Nev. their town is worth seeing under the winter
Dcpt. D-2. Polo Alto. Calif sun.
PRIL IS the lime of year when the
A Death Valley and Southern Nevada
region beckons the winter-weary.
There's a wonderful diversity of outdoor
Walk or drive westerly from the still-im-
posing railroad station along Golden Street,
that unequaled glowing main drag of 1907
—and try to re-create Rhyolite from the
recreation to be enjoyed in this area now gaunt two-story walls of the bank, or the
—long reaches of sunny deserts, fine hills, naked portico of Porter Brothers Store.
the world's "most exciting" city (Las Vegas, Visualize a city that gave that store $ 150,-
of course) and ghost towns. 000 in business each month! Go somewhat
"Ghost wandering" is fun for many rea- farther from the station and visit the curi-
sons—there's the contrast of old and new, ous shiny glass walls of the Bottle House,
gaiety and somberness; the warmness of a relic of 1905 when bottles were more
heart (call it pity if you will) that the old, plentiful than wood for building materials.
the lost and the slightly sad generates in
the new, the warm and the alive. And, of There isn't too much more. A few struc-
Best Kamp for Outdoor Comfort course, "ghost wandering" is inexpensive tures, many fragments, much rubble. It has
You'll like Kar Kamp's 7V4' x 10y2' out- and something your Easter-vacationing chil- been decades since the last train whistle
door room which sets up in 5 min. Made dren find more exciting than the bright was heard here. But unlike most other
of quality duck, with all aluminum lights of plush casinos. boom towns, Rhyolite has left the pattern
frame and carrier. Kar Kamp weighs of its sprawling richness imprinted on the
88 lbs., fits any hardtop automobile, is
Near the current "Queen of Southern terrain. Climb just a little way up any of
completely detachable from car. Easy Nevada"—Las Vegas—lies the ghost of the the surrounding hills and you can look
to install and store, needs no tools or long-deposed first queen of this part of the down on the full grid of empty streets, as
suction cups, uses only J/4th of carrier. world—Rhyolite. It was quite a town in yet unclaimed by the desert. The city's
Doors & windows screened & zippered; its day. whitening bones lay so long without final
includes floor. Only $199.95. Free bro- Rhyolite's shadowy remnant is 145 miles rites that their dusty decay created an in-
chure. Kar Kamp Mfg., 8925 E. Garvey, north of Las Vegas and a hop-skip from delible marker—the only true monument
So. San Gabriel, Calif. the eastern edge of Death Valley. Good to Southern Nevada's first reigning com-
highways lead to it—U.S. 95 takes you munity.
within a couple of miles, and the Daylight You'll find the able little town of Beatty
Pass Route from Death Valley (California's —only two miles from Rhyolite—a pleasant
Highway 190 and Nevada's 58) goes right stopover as well as a good place for rock-
Of Special Interest past the short dirt road to the old town. hounding and exploring. Beatty has gaso-
Gold created Rhyolite. The first strike line, supplies and good motels and restaur-
to in the district was made just downhill and ants. It is on the main north-south Reno
westerly of the city's site and resulted in to Las Vegas highway. A morning's drive
NKW SUBSCRIBERS the boom camps of Bullfrog and Bonanza
in 1904. Living on the flat was miserable
at best, and the first dusty tents flapped
dismally in the wind. In early 1905, Pete
north on this highway takes you to Gold-
field—the county seat ghost town that is
well worth a visit.
(Old Subscribers, Too!) and Ed Busch had the good sense to lay The community of Henderson in southern
out a real city in the natural basin above Nevada holds its annual "Industrial Days"
Our Attractive Loose-leaf the camps—a splendid site to which water on April 21-24.—END
was piped from three sources not 15 miles
distant.
From the beginning, Rhyolite flourished
almost violently and by its peak of pros-
perity two years later, 10,000 people
crowded its wide streets. Tall stone build-
provide a permanent and ings lined those thoroughfares and three
practical way to keep railroads—the Bullfrog & Goldfield, Tono-
pah & Tidewater, Las Vegas & Tonopah—
your copies of
THE
MAILED POSTPAID
Order today from:
Desert Magazine
PALM DESERT, CALIF.
- . - ' • • ' .
RHYOLITE'S SKELETONS LINE GOLDEN STREET
APRIL, 1960 33
CLEAR QUARTZ stars, pagodas, butterflies,
cranes, tear drops, crosses, Eiffel Towers;
34 DESERT MAGAZINE
DESERT ROCKS, woods, jewelry. Residence rear MOJAVE DESERT jasper, howlite, agate, 75c POTTERY PIPE, four perfect arrows, flint thun-
of shop. Rockhounds welcome. Mile west on pound, Australian rhodonite, adventurine, lep- derbird. All for $5. List free. Billy Brantley,
U.S. 66. McShan's Gem Shop and Desert idolite, rainbow obsidian, $1 pound, postage 2734 St. Louis, Fort Worth 10, Texas.
Museum. P.O. Box 22, Needles, California. and tax extra. Tubby's Rock Shop, 3329
Mayfleld, La Crescenta, California. NAVAJO WEAVER-Woman sitting at loom weav-
ing rug, 8V2 inch $2.95, IOV2 inch $3.95.
• GEMS, MINERALS - FOSSILS GEMS - MINERALS - Special offer: 1/4 pound Kachina dolls: 3 inch $1.25, 4 inch $1.75, 5
phantom amethyst; from Africa; 75c postpaid. inch $2.25, 6 inch $3.50, postpaid. California
12 POUNDS of beautiful Colorado mineral speci- Free list. For the beautiful and exotic, write buyers add 4 percent tax. TEWA Indian Shop,
mens, $8 prepaid. Ask for list of others. at once to The Vellor Company, P.O. Box Box 4806, Carmel, Calif.
Jack the Rockhound, P.O. Box 245, Carbon- 44(D), Overland, St. Louis 14, Missouri.
dale, Colorado. • JEWELRY
GEM MATERIAL from the Mojave Desert. Your
FOSSILS. 12 different for $2. Other prices on choice: Mojave agate, lavic jasper, verde an-
UNIQUE LOVELY bracelets of ten different
request. Will buy, sell or trade. Museum of tique, palmwood, travertine (green), chapenite,
identified gems set flat on untarnishable gilt
Fossils. Clifford H. Earl, P. O. Box 188, onyx, opalite, jasp-agate, buds eye, and mixed
H.P. mounting. Choice of "Gems of the
Sedona, Arizona. jasper. 100 pounds — $22.50; 100 pounds
World" or "Western Gems," $3 each. Also
mixed $12.50. Sample $3.50. All material
choker-style necklaces to match, $3.75 each.
WOOD, VERY colorful and good gem quality. F.O.B. Barstow. Morton Minerals and Mining,
Tax, postage included. Bensusan, 8615 Co-
State color and size wanted, 75c per pound, 21423 (Old) Highway 66, R.F.D. 1, Barstow,
lumbus Avenue, Sepulveda, California.
postage paid. Simonds Mines, Box 511, Hanks- California. Phone 8551.
ville, Utah.
ALABASTER, RHODONITE, onyx, rare black gar- JEWELRY PARTS-why pay retail? Catalog lists
COMPARISON MINERAL specimens sample or- net, topazolite, green opal, jade (both jadeite bracelets, sweater clips, tools, bails, cuff links,
der of ten $1.50. Included are lepidolite, and nephrite), gem obsidian, agatized cedar, bell caps, Epoxy-Adhesive, earrings, belt
smaltite, bauxite, cinnabar, garnierite, arseno- myrickite, signet plasma, rock crystal, chryso- buckles, chains, neck clasps, key chains, lari-
phrite, chromite. Or send for free details on prase. This 14 specimen gemstone sampler at slides, tips or cords, as well as ring
how to obtain 210 one inch specimens for $2—gem and mineral price list included. Old mountings, pendants, brooches, silver. Send
only $18.50 postpaid! Minerals Unlimited, Prospector, Canyon, California. 4c stamp to cover postage. Rock Craft, Box
1724 University Avenue, Berkeley 3, Calif. 424D-2, Temple City, California.
WANTED! CUTTING: rough only; to build up
SOMETHING FOR everyone: World wide speci- our stock. Would like to have your whole- ALUMINUM CHAINS! Dealers, write for whole-
men minerals, micromounts, thumb-nails, facet- sale price list and representative samples of sale price list on our fabulous line of non-
ing and cabochon materials, lapidary equip- material. Los Vientos de California, P.O. Box tarnishing aluminum chains. Include $1 for
ment and supplies, books, etc., Highland Park 1313, South San Gabriel, California. samples postpaid. Please use letterhead or
Distributors. Write for free lists. Museum state tax number. R. B. Berry & Company,
and Collectors Supply, P.O. Box 1168-D, Ard- 5040 Corby Street, Omaha 4, Nebraska.
more, Oklahoma. • INDIAN GOODS
AUTHENTIC INDIAN jewelry, Navajo rugs, Chi- CUSTOM CUTTING of precious stones. Faceting.
FINE DOMESTIC and foreign crystals and mas- Cabochon. Gem repairs. R. Reis & Associates,
sive minerals. Please ask for free list. Con- mayo blankets, squaw boots, old Indian col-
lection. Closed Tuesdays. Pow-Wow Indian 3829 West 66th Street, Chicago 29, Illinois.
tinental Minerals, P.O. Box 1206, Anaconda,
Montana. Trading Post, 19967 Ventura Blvd., East Wood-
land Hills, Calif. Open Sundays. • MAPS
MINERALS, SPECIMENS, slabs, rough material,
mountings, lapidary supplies, etc. Shamrock FINE RESERVATION-MADE Navajo and Zuni jew- "TREASURE MAP of the Great Mojave Desert,"
Rock Shop, 1115 West La Cadena Drive, River- elry. Old pawn. Hundreds of fine old bas- finest guide to Mojave's treasure of gems,
side, California. Phone OVerland 6-3956. kets, moderately priced, in excellent condition. minerals, rocks and recreation, 22x33", 26
Navajo rugs, Yei blankets, Chimayo homespuns, detailed maps to special localities. $1 post-
NORTHWEST MINERALS-12 choice samples of pottery. A collector's paradise! Open daily paid. Gemac, Box 808J, Mentone, Calif.
important minerals in an attractive box $1.50, 10 to 5:30, closed Mondays. Buffalo Trading
instructive booklet included. Ideal for stu- Post, Highway 18, Apple Valley, California. SECTIONIZED COUNTY maps - San Bernardino
dents. Wholesale rates available. E & R Enter- $3; Riverside $ 1 ; Imperial, small $ 1 , large $2;
prises, 3403-B East Cherry, Seattle 22, Wash. THREE FINE prehistoric Indian war arrowheads San Diego $1.25; Inyo $2.50; Kern $1.25;
$1. Flint scalping knife $1. Rare flint thunder- other California counties $1.25 each. Nevada
PALM—PETRIFIED—California: multicolored slabs bird $3. All $4. Catalog free. Arrowhead, counties $1 each. Include 4 percent sales tax.
from old timer's collection, exceptional de- Glenwood, Arkansas. Topographic maps of all mapped western
signs, patterns and combinations, 30 square areas. Westwide Maps Co., 114 West Third
inches $10 postpaid. Extra fine large slabs PINE VALLEY Trading Post deals in authentic Street, Los Angeles 13, California.
60c square inch postpaid. C. T. Brown, 1355 Indian goods, rugs and jewelry, also gift
Gladys, Long Beach, California. items, imports. On Highway 80, 43 miles GHOST TOWN map: big 3x2 feet. California,
east of San Diego. Mailing address, Box 208, Arizona and Nevada, with roads marked. Plus
Pine Valley, California. Treasure catalogue 100 items. $1. Foul Anchor
• GEMS, ROUGH MATERIAL Archives, DM, Rye, New York.
SELLING 20,000 Indian relics. 100 nice ancient
TURQUOISE FOR sale. Turquoise in the rough arrowheads $25. Grooved stone tomahawk $3.
priced at from $5 to $50 a pound. Royal Blue Indian skull $25. List free. Lear's, Glenwood, • MINING
Mines Co., Tonopah, Nevada. Arkansas. BERYLLIUM ASSAY with berylometer. Presence
MOZARKITE COMPOSED of jasper, rhodonite, or absence of beryllium, $1. Accurate analysis
GENUINE INDIAN war bonnets, buffalo hide
chalcedony and agate. Beautiful colors in of beryllium oxide content, $8. 24-hour serv-
tom-toms. Beadwork for costumes. Buffalo
pink, grays, reds, blues and browns. Takes ice. Boulder Assay Office, 250 Pearl Street,
skulls, western lamps, mounted horns. List
a beautiful polish. Send $2.50 for get-ac- free. Thunderbird Trading Post, Millsap, Texas. Boulder, Colorado.
quainted offer. Timberline Lake Rock and
WESTERN MINING News, monthly, for miners,
Gem Shop, Lincoln, Missouri. INDIAN PHONOGRAPH records, authentic songs
prospectors, claim owners, $2 per year. Sam-
and dances, all speeds. Write for latest list:
MINNESOTA SUPERIOR agates 1/2 to 1 inch Canyon Records, 834 No. 7th Avenue, Phoenix, ple copy 25c. Box 787, Sonora, Calif.
$1.35 pound postpaid; 1 to 2 inch $2.50 1, Arizona.
pound postpaid. 3 polished Thompsonites $1 NEW! METALS & Minerals Buyers Guide for 1960.
postpaid. Frank Engstrom, Grey Eagle, Minn. ARROWS: HAND chipped obsidian 3 for $1 Market values—who buys what and where.
postpaid. Epidote and Unakite rough. Whole- A must for every serious miner or prospector.
COLORFUL AUSTRALIAN Fire Opal $25.00 worth sale and retail. French Broad Lapidary, Dand- Price only $2.50 postpaid. Comprehensive
on approval. No deposit! Select the best. ridge, Tennessee. Chemical Co., Dept. D, Box 123, Rancho Cor-
Return the rest. See before you buy. Free dova, California.
list. Western Rock & Gem, 20385 Stanton, 4 ARROWHEADS $1, (25-$5); 3 birdpoints $1,
Castro Valley, California. (20-$5); 3 spearheads $2, (9-$5); 3 flint ASSAYS. COMPLETE, accurate, guaranteed. Spec-
knives $2, (9-$5); flint celt $1.25 (5-$5); trographic. Over 55 elements including rare
CENTRAL OREGON rocks. Good variety for cut- drill and scraper $1, (7 of each $5); strand earths and radioactives. $8. Reed Engineering,
ting. Good, 10 pounds $3.50. Better, 10 trade beads $1.50 (4—$5. Paul Summers, 620-R South Inglewood Avenue, Inglewood 1,
pounds $6. Best, 10 pounds $11. Postpaid. Canyon, Texas. California.
100 pounds of above mixed, $40 freight
paid. Ashby's, Route 2, Box 92, Redmond,
Oregon. MORE CLASSIFIEDS ON NEXT PAGE
APRIL, 1960 35
WILDFLOWERS SEEDS: New catalog offers over
T R A D I N G P O S T — (Continued) 600 different kinds of wildflower and wild
tree seeds. Catalog 50c. Clyde Robin, Carmel
Valley, California.
$1 FOR gold areas, 25 California counties. PLASTIC EMBEDDING for fun and profit, no
Geology, elevations. Pans $3, $2.50. Poke $1. oven. Make beautiful jewelry, decorative CACTUS AND Succulents: Eight of these exotic
Fred Mark, Box 801, Ojai, California. panels, science specimen castings. Catalog plants from the deserts of the world. $2 post-
25c, Natcol Plastics, Box 444, Yucaipa, Calif. paid. G. Robert Meyers, Box 521, Vista, Cal.
GOLD PLACER mining claim for sale cheap in
Rocky Mountains near Leadville, Colorado, on FIND FLUORESCENT minerals the easy way. New
U.S. Highway. Write: Box 709, Canon City, detector operates in daylight without batteries.
Fits in pocket and eliminates dark box. Price NEW . . . NEW . . . NEW
Colorado.
$12.50. Free brochure, Essington Products
• REAL ESTATE and Engineering, Box 4174, Coronado Station, TERRY'S
Santa Fe, New Mexico.
CHOICE 626 acres on Dillon Road, few miles
RESTING PLACE for Rockhounds. Close to mines,
1960 CATALOG
from Desert Hot Springs, California; $275 per
mounlains, desert. Westward Motel, Salome, BIGGER A N D BETTER
acre. Write Ronald L. Johnson, Thermal, Cal.
Arizona. Clean, comfortable, reasonable.
Unusual mountings and findings. Good selec-
80 ACRES near Lockhart, level, $125 acre, 25% tion of jewelers' tools, equipment, supplies,
down. 20 acres Highway 395, level, north of MICROSCOPES FOR professionals and hobbyists: silver, books, cut stones, etc. Top quality
Adelanto, $150 acre, 10% down. 2'/2 acres 20X telescope $4.40, 8X monocular $11, 10X merchandise at reasonable prices.
west of Adelanto, level, $1495, 10% down. magnifier $1.10—postpaid. Peninsula Scientific, SEND 50c TODAY FOR YOUR COPY
2V2 acres Lancaster on paved highway, shal- 2421 E. Camino, Palo Alto, California. Money refunded on first $5.00 order
low water, level, $2495, 10% down. Dr.
Dodge, 1804 Lincoln Blvd., Venice, Calif. SOUR DOUGH biscuit recipe and full directions TERRY'S LAPIDARY
$1. Dutchoven or modern baking. Revive the
3616 E. GAGE AVE. BELL, CALIF.
HOUSES FOR sale or rent: $250 to $3000—terms, lost art. Franks Murdock, Da I hart, Texas.
down payment. No smog, good climate.
VIOLIN PLAYERS: you can buy nice handmade
Some furnished. Mrs. M. J. Edsall, Box 164,
violins at very low prices. Made in the desert.
Johannesburg, California.
Write George Blatt, Box 2]3, Johannesburg,
NEAR TWENTYNINE Palms: 2-acres with small California.
cabin $1000. Full price terms arranged. Sec.
21, 2N, 8E, near Lear Road. Write: P.O. Box
38, Hermosa Beach, California.
FANTASTIC INTRODUCTORY sale: Finest preci-
sion quality 8x30 center focus prism binocu-
lars with hard coated lenses, fine leather case
on
and shoulder straps. Special offer, below usual
FOR SALE: Johannesburg, California; modern
two-bedroom home furnished or unfurnished,
four lots fenced, trees, two-car garage, cooler,
dealer's cost. Regularly $43.50. Limited time,
only $24.95—30 day money back guarantee.
We pay the 10% F.E.T. and shipping. Rush
Botany)
heating stove—"Heart of the Rand District"— i From
check or money order today. Lorbro Products
$4000, full price. Phone Randsburg 5131 or
Company, 406D Walnut Street, Alexandria, Ind. DESERT
write Box 152, Johannesburg, California.
MAGAZINE'S
FIVE MINUTES to downtown Redlands, yet pri- SOUVENIR PENNANTS: designs for all 50 states. mail-order
vate and secluded—ten acres, low as $2990. Colorful, 31/2 x 12" size. Any selection, 25c
$100 down, balance EZ. Write today. Pon & each postpaid. Four pennants minimum order. sales department
Co., Box 546D, Azusa, California. No. C.O.D.'s. International Crest mark, Plais- There's no time like Spring for
tow 18, New Hampshire. desert flowers — and no time
like the present to order those
• WESTERN MERCHANDISE LADY GODIVA "The World's Finest Beautifier." books that will increase your
knowledge — and enjoyment —
For women who wish to become beautiful, of these flowers.
GHOST TOWN items: Sun-colored glass, amethyst for women who wish to remain beautiful. An
to royal purple; ghost railroads materials, outstanding desert cream. For information, DESERT WILDFLOWERS
tickets; limited odd items from camps of the write or call Lola Barnes, 963 N. Oakland, Edmund C. Jaeger.
'60s. Write your interest—Box 64-D, Smith, Pasadena 6, Calif., or phone SYcamore 4-2378. Fine handbook on desert flora,
Nevada. almost 800 species described
SCIENTIFIC INTRODUCTIONS by correspondence, and illustrated by line drawing
using famous Wallace matchmaking system- or photo. A must for folks who
FREE "DO-it-yourself" Leathercraft catalog. Tandy travel the desert by-ways....$5
Leather Company, Box 791—G35, Fort Worth, personality analysis and electronic selector.
Texas. Details free in plain envelope. Dr. Karl Wal- THE WILDFLOWERS OF CALI-
lace Foundation, 5404 2-G Terminal Annex, FORNIA
Los Angeles 54, California. Mary Elizabeth Parsons.
• MISCELLANEOUS For the amateur botanist who
would gain a more intimate ac-
BOOKKEEPING SIMPLIFIED; Conforms to all fed- quaintance with the plants that
SOUTHWEST WORKSHOP of professional writing eral and state tax law requirements. Complete . I beautify the state's valleys,
—Weldon and Phyllis Heald, Directors. Indi- book only $4.95. Mott Distributors, P.O. Box I/--} mountains and deserts. Excel-
vidual literary criticism, technical writing as- 602, Lovelock, Nevada. lent pen sketches and color
sistance, marketing, agenting. All types of plates ....- $3.95
material. 2137 East 8th Street, Tucson, Ariz. SIMULATED ENGRAVED business cards $3.95
BOOK OF CACTI AND OTHER
and $4.95 per thousand. Write for samples. SUCCULENTS
Tumble polished baroques $2.50 per pound Claude Chidamain.
postpaid. Doney's Printing & Rock Shop, Box For those interested in garden-
246, Lucerne, Lake County, California. ing or collecting, an encyclo-
pedia of information regarding
nature, propagation and culti-
America's fin- vation of cacti. Well illustrated
est Coach. • PLANTS, SEEDS $4.50
Write for free
illustrated bro- OLD FASHIONED large gourd seeds, mixed
chure & name ORDER BY MAIL FROM
of n e a r e s t types, certified, 50c. Ornamental; useful for
dealer. birdhouses, centerpieces, Christmas decorations,
conversation pieces, etc. Certi-Seeds, 5915
Shoshone Avenue, Encino, California.
(Desert Magazine
PHOTO and ART credits
U.S. Pat. No. (Unless otherwise specified below or in text, BOOK STORE
Dl85146 photographs and art work are by authors of
features in which they appear.)
ante*
HONORBUILT
Write to Nearest
Factory
Division Siegmund
Page 26: Douglas Rigby. 31: Ethel S.
Capps. 33: Nevada State Highway De-
partment. 38: Map by Norton Allen. 40:
•—- - ^
PALM DESERT, CALIF.
— -
TRAILER Mfg. Co. (Please add 15c per book for postage and
Werner, Inc. Museum of New Mex. 43: Map by Nat'l handling; California residents also add
756 Hansen Av. 225 Belleville Ave. Park Service. Back Cover: H. A. Lowman. 4% sales tax)
Lakeview, Calif. Bloomficld, N.J.
36 DESERT MAGAZINE
BIG SAVINGS NOW Gem cutters special!
EjROCKHOUNDS
VOU JUST CAN'T GO
ROCK HUNTING
plus YELLOW
TIGER EYE SLAB - ESTWING~
J PROSPECTOR PICK
'" UP TO 33% OFF Popular style, sterling silver mount-
ing . . . slab is templet-maiked to be IForged all-steel one-piece head-
* handle prospecting pick with the
cut to 12 x 16mm cushion shape . . . new blue everlasting nylon cushion WOODEN SPHERE BASES
makes gorgeous ring. Mountings handle grip — non slip. 13 inches Hold spheres, vases, mineral specimens
available in all sizes from 8 through long with 7" head which weighs 22 . . . many other uses. Oriental import —
"TIGER EYE CERTIFIED 13. It's a $3.50 value — offered spe- oz. Guaranteed unbreakable. hand carved legs, hand polished. Spec-
L GEM SLABS" SPECIAL cial to introduce our "CGS" Slabs. Ord-r as Z-60-C now only $4.75 tacular price. Choice of iy 2 ", 2" and 2V2"
Order as Z-50-C now only $2.45 diameter— in dark brown or black wood.
A See other pages in this issue for a ORDER AS:
_ description of these selected slabs. 768 C (state color and size desired) . eath 95*
• Here is an introductory special to
| outdo all other introductory offers.
_0 We don't get anything but exercise
out of this offer. Three select CER- Has full 3-power POCKET COMPASS Protects against breakage
magnification with
A TIFIED GEM SLABS for making large IV2" lens. Ideal for jewelry
18x25 mm Perfect Cabochons of Has guard chain and protective lid
inspection, gem cutting projects. — case is polished chrome-plated
" golden, blue, and mixed colors of Genuine pigskin case — attractive brass — 45mm diameter. Favorite
V Tiger Eye. A NORMAL RETAIL molded blue and white frame. with many outdoorsmen. Accurate,
VALUE OF $1.80. You'll use it often! sensitive. Lightweight—has pointer,
Order Of: Z-49-C only $1.00 stopper, luminosity, jeweled pivot
OFFER Z-39 C . . . black and white dial for greater
J 3 certified gem slabs for $1.00 visibility. Super value . . . makes
wonderful gift too!
Order m: Z-45-C only $1.00
Chrysocolla
210
at the
By
Jay
Ellis
Ransom
Socorro
If you have an eye for
good gem rock and a taste
for mining lore, this outing to the
Socorro Mine in west Arizona is for you
ROM HIGH above Arizona's So- containing many lowgrade deposits of Salome, "where she danced." Just by
F corro Gold Mine, 10.6 miles south-
east of Salome, I looked down on
the abandoned workings and millsite,
sky-blue chrysocolla.
Long before 1900, many gold min-
chance, I had mentioned that I was
looking for chrysocolla in the Har-
quahalas, and Brusco started talking a
ing areas were active in this rugged
then out across a nearly endless desert limestone uplift. Of course, however, mile a minute about the many old
of saguaro cactus and ocotillo in flame- small account was made. Chrysocolla mines he knows intimately.
red bloom. I fancied that I could smell is a secondary copper mineral, and John, it seems, has always been in-
the brilliant golden-yellow paloverdes the finest gemstone specimens come terested in old mines. Collecting their
decked out in their spring finery far from the great Arizona copper mines histories, along with ore, mineral spe-
below me. Vagrant breezes, warm of Bisbee, Miami and Globe. cimens and gemstones, is his hobby.
with sun and spiced by miles of desert Between shifts at the station, he car-
blossoms, riffled an occasional patch Now, as I looked over the remnants
of the once-famed Socorro Mine, I re- ries on his assessment work, makes
of wildflowers. side trips to distant mining areas, and
membered what an old desert friend
The chrysocolla (a hydrous silicate had once said about this region. Mar- collects specimens. He is easy to meet
of copper of a blue to green color, tin Koning, Morristown lapidary and and to talk to, and welcomes visitors
much esteemed by amateur gem col- rock collector, spent many years pros- to share his years of accumulated rock-
lectors) that I had heard about through pecting this chocolate - brown range. hound wisdom. "There's some won-
a succession of rumors scattered over He found outcrops of top - quality derful stuff back in the Harquahalas,"
many years, was here, all right. Fairly chrysocolla, the best of which he "lost" he said.
presentable specimens of good deep —never being able to find his way John related how the Socorro Mine
blue material, some with cutting qual- back to them. From what Koning told reached its heyday in 1908-09. The
ity "stringers" (veins of chrysocolla in me, better specimens are found farther earliest miners and prospectors were
the base rock), had been piled around back in the mountains. As a starter, reputed to have been driven out sev-
a mesquite tree shading the locked at any rate, this old gold mine is easy eral times by renegade bands of
front door of the only structure left of access and it does provide some Apaches who made their headquarters
standing in the "residential area" of obvious Western mining history to go near Wickenburg, 60 miles east. After
the mine. And in the draws and along with the chrysocolla specimens. 1900, a water line was laid several
gulches, chrysocolla float gave prom-
It was while filling our water can- miles across the desert from Nord's
ise of outcrops that, with a little ex-
nisters and bag at the Richfield station Ranch to the mine, and the Socorro's
ploratory effort, might produce even
in Salome that Gay and I became ac- "rosy" years were at hand.
better specimens.
quainted with one of the most pleasant But, the inevitable followed: the
Although the Harquahala Mountains and personable of desert young "old- gold veins played out. During the
south of Salome have been prospected timers" I ever met. John Brusco runs middle 1920s the machinery was
and mined more for gold than copper, the station for his folks who virtually scrapped and sold to Japan, with only
I had listened with keen interest to the homesteaded this site when the late a single residence, still habitable, re-
many stories about the canyons and humorist Dick Wick Hall was making maining on the property. From time
spines of this whole sprawling range the nation laugh with his stories about to time some hopeful prospector
38 DESERT MAGAZINE
left. On the dump we found ore speci-
mens from the deeper workings. A THE LAPIDARY'S
shaft, dry as dust, angles down into STANDARD OF VALUE
the mountain, but I do not recommend BUY THE BEST
that casual visitors follow it beyond FOR LESS
Congo l)ia Blades
the reach of sunlight. Sizes range from
4 to 24"
Of greater interest are the truly enor-
mous timbers that once supported the
stamp mill. Beneath the mine dump
a pile of smaller timbers had been
gathered so long ago that wind and A LEADER
sun has turned them almost as black IN ITS FIELD
as charcoal. At the mill site itself we Highland Park
Power-feed
found the sawed-off bases of four of Slab Saws
the biggest sticks of lumber I have Sizes range from 12" J-2 & J-3
to 24". Metal or Lu- Slab Saw
seen south of the Pacific Northwest. cite hood.
Each mill support measured 24-inches
ROUGH BUT PASSABLE ROAD LEADS TO MINE square, and were bound in pairs. At A
one time, they must have supported
moves into it, probably more to enjoy a terrific tonnage of superstructure.
the peace and beauty of the lonely One can only guess as to where such
desert than with any real hope of huge stanchions might have been cut,
finding gold left by the long departed. no doubt somewhere in Oregon or
Washington. Brought by schooner to
Fall, winter and spring months are Los Angeles, they were hauled over- Highland Park Combination Unit
the best times to prospect western Ari- land by wagon—a dozen mules to each Available in all sizes. Perfect combina-
zona. We were fortunate in having tion unit for Lapidary work. Handles saw-
stick — to their final installation in ing, grinding, sanding, and polishing. Ex-
come during a brilliant flowering sea- what was then, surely, a most desolate ceptionally quiet operation.
son. All of the vegetation—including Arbors of All Sizes—Tumblers, Belt Sanders,
and remote corner of the Territory of Trim Saws — 41 Models to Choose From
creosote bushes and cholla cacti—was Arizona.
The most eomplete line of lapidary ma-
chinery offered by any manufacturer. See
in its spring dress, giving a softness to these at your local Highland Park dealer
the landscape fronting the ragged or write for free literature.
Rockhound visitors will find all the
mountains. This spring good rains chrysocolla they need in the outcrops HIGHLAND PARK MANUFACTURING CO.
mean an even more bountiful flower 1009-1011 MISSION STREET
back in the hills. Fairly good chryso- SOUTH PASADENA, CALIFORNIA
crop. colla lies hidden in pockets and seams
In and out among the various cacti, in the nearby draws and gulches. De-
as if seeking nectar or insects, flew spite a cable across the access road,
this is all open country for the rock O U T D O O R L I V I N G
the state's official bird, the cactus wren.
Largest of its species, this constantly collector. It is lovely any time of year AT ITS BEST
curious bird is utterly fearless. Gray- (except summer), but beautiful be- Any Place . . . Any Season
brown, with white spotted breast and yond dreams in the spring when a ITS A CAMP»A»LONG
white splotches on throat and tail, gentle breeze sighs over the green fer-
these wrens wear a white line over tile desert. For those who love the For the Most in Portable Camping
their eyes. They chattered and scolded desert, here is infinite peace, where CUSTOMETTE
us incessantly as we walked about the blueness of the sky has been caught
looking for gemstone float. They and held captive forever in the veins
seemed to take shrewish pleasure in and stringers of chrysocolla at one's
berating us for whatever we were do- feet.—END
ing that apparently irritated them.
As John Brusco had said, the mine Planning a trip in April? Here is a list-
residence gave every appearance of ing of some of the gem-mineral shows
being occupied, even with a fairly new scheduled for this month:
CARRY - ALL
Studebaker sedan parked to one side. April 2-3—Slover Gem and Mineral So-
On closer inspection, we saw that no ciety's third annual show at Lincoln School
in Colton, Calif.
one had lived here for many years, and
April 2-3—Puget Sound Gem and Min-
the automobile had no wheels. Soft eral Club's show at the American Legion
drink bottles lay scattered everywhere. Hall on 10th Avenue S., Seattle, Wash.
In accordance with our desert custom April 23-24—Wichita, Kansas, Gem and
of not breaking into locked buildings Mineral Society's annual show at the East
—a practice too few outdoor devotees National Guard Armory.
CAMP«A»LONG Portable Campers are built
follow—we contented ourselves with April 23-24—Owyhee Gem and Mineral to provide maximum comfort and protec-
looking over the grounds. Society's annual show at the I.O.O.F. Hall tion . . . both winter and summer. Square
in Caldwell, Idaho. tube frames are arc welded for longer life
and durability. Aluminum covering and
Surrounding the base of a nearly April 30-May 1—Tacoma, Wash., Agate birch lining are both screwed to the steel
Club's annual spring show at the South frame. Riding In back is as safe as in the
dead mesquite tree, presumably there truck cab.
Park Community Center Building.
to shade the front door, we found Write jor detailed brochure and
April 30-May 1—Yakima, Wash., Rock
several hundred pounds of brilliant and Mineral Club's first show at the Yakima name of nearest dealer
blue chrysocolla specimens, evidently Armory.
brought in from the surrounding hills April 30-May 1—8th annual San Joaquin L O N G M F G . C O .
and draws for use as "garden stones." Valley Gem and Mineral Show at the Agri- 12231 E. Garvey Blvd., El Monte, Calif.
cultural Building at the County Fairgrounds, Phone Gilbert 4-4082
Very little of the mine or mill is Stockton, Calif.
APRIL, 1960 39
Their moradas, or chapels, may be seen
in many isolated settlements. In Cordova,
Rociada, and dozens of other picturesque Coming . . .
adobe villages they hold their solemn pro-
cessions at night from the morada to the in the
church and back to the morada. The "cru-
cifixions" for which they were once famous
have died out, but a few members still whip
themselves in public penance. Visitors are
welcome at the processions and at any ritual
held in a church. You must be careful not
to offend, however — and you must not
By W. Thetford LeViness
P.O. Box 155, Santa Fe
enter a morada unless invited.
State Routes 3, 10, 21, 38, 76, 94 and
105 all traverse "Penitente country." These
Desert Magazine
roads are found east of U.S. 64 between
ASTER WEEK end is the beginning of Santa Fe and Taos, and north of U.S. 85
E the summer tourist season in old New
Mexico. All during Holy Week, Indi-
ans come into Santa Fe from the nearby
at Las Vegas. Spanish is still the dominant
tongue throughout this region, and the re-
maining Penitente rituals are conducted in
pueblos, and spread their wares under the Spanish. Activities usually occur on Thurs-
portal of the Palace of the Governors there. day and Friday of Holy Week. On Good
They'll go home at night and others may Friday morning, a procession at Trampas
take their places the following day, but
nonetheless this Indian market will continue reenacts the Biblical story of Jesus kissing
through fiesta-time, over Labor Day week his mother Mary on the way to Golgatha.
end. At Talpa, a tiny placita near Taos, a "death
On Easter Sunday, April 17 this year, car"—a two-wheeled vehicle with a skele-
there are Indian dances in just about all ton-like figure of Death seated on it—is
the pueblos. They are spring planting cere- pulled about the village in procession. And
monies—thanksgivings to the Great Spirit at Cordova, alabados (hymns of praise)
for the winter snows and rains, and sup- are sung at Tieneblas (Tenebrae) in the
plications for bountiful crops. At Santo church that night. One by one the candles
Domingo, south of Santa Fe, there is a on the altar are extinguished, and male
children's corn dance Easter Sunday after-
noon, with dances by the village adults for voices sing of the Saviour and His crucifix-
three days after. ion. The sole accompaniment is a primitive
If you are in New Mexico before Easter, doleful pito (flute). One hopes that this
you may witness—if you're lucky—the fast- indigenous music of the Penitentes will en-
disappearing Holy Week rites of the Peni- dure for future generations.
tente Brotherhood. Remnants of this lay
group of Roman Catholics, all of Spanish Penitentes trace their history back through
descent, are still active in northern New the conquistadores to humble beginnings in
Mexico and southern Colorado; they in- medieval Europe. There they had developed
habit, generally speaking, the Sangre de within the Third Order of St. Francis, a
Cristo mountain area north of U.S. 66. zealous laity dedicated to poverty and hu-
mility. Franciscans had long practiced Boating authority V. Lee Oertle
mortification of the flesh — so, the laity describes a significant recrea-
among them adopted self-flogging—in spite tion trend in the Southwest: the
of a papal bull against flagellant sects in boating boom! An article for
1349. Franciscan priests came to live in
New Mexico's first European settlements. folks who are seeking practical
They converted the Indians of the area, and advice prior to joining the "des-
transplanted Franciscan fervor to these new ert skipper" fraternity.
Christian strongholds. Indians are believed
to have taken up penitential flogging in PLUS
these early days, but they do not seem to
have continued with it for long. The Lost Wilson
Silver Mine
This New World sect reached its peak One of the great mysteries of
after 1840, when Franciscans were expelled
from New Mexico. Flagellation and the Mojave Desert mining is ana-
"crucifixions" were frequent and fanatic in lysed by Harold Weight, Amer-
local mountain fastnesses. Charles F. Lum- ica's leading lost mine author-
mis took pictures of these events at San ity. "Quartz" Wilson found the
Mateo, New Mexico, in 1888. In his book. horn-silver bonanza in the vi-
The Land of Poco Tiempo, he said that cinity of the Providence and
"Cristos" were even nailed to the cross in Old Woman mountains . . .
that village in the Lenten season of 1887. country worth exploring even
Several cases of actual death on the cross if you have not as yet caught
have been reported from the various com-
munities where Penitentes were active in
lost mine "fever."
the last century. A Visit to
In 1947, Archbishop Edwin V. Byrne the Hopi
declared the Penitentes to be a recognized Laura Armer continues her ac-
lay group within the See of Santa Fe. In count of life in the Four Corners
exchange, leaders among them agreed to Country in the 1920s.
tone down many of the sect's extreme prac-
tices. And many other desert arti-
On April 19 the Old Timers' Day cele- cles of lasting interest
A PENITENTE "MUERTE" ("FIGURE OF DEATH") bration takes place in Deming.—END
40 DESERT MAGAZINE
Quit between If on and Me
v
3SNW
By RANDALL HENDERSON
APRIL, 1960 41
The National Park Service's
Ruins Stabilization Mobile Unit
•• TOTHERESCUE
When one of the Sou+hwes+'s prehistoric ruins
needs a "face-lifting," the call goes out for
the Stabilization Unit and its Navajo crewmen
By EDNA RICHERT
42 DESERT MAGAZINE
Navajo National Monument was a To Arches Nat. Mon.
,RA1NBOW Navajo Mtn.
typical one. Access to Kcet Seel is not BRIDGE 10.416
166 Miles /r*
easy. Following a narrow twisting NAT.MONV Goulding i
channel of mud, water and quicksand,
the 11-mile trek to the ruin was made
by pack-train. Though our trip was
successfully negotiated before nightfall,
the crew was considerably dampened arble Canyon KEET SEEL RUIN
by a sudden drenching rain. This, NAVAJO BRIDGE INSCRIPTION HOUSE BETATAKIN RUIN
the Navajos among us insisted, was 467 Feel ABOVE RUIN HDQRS
COLORADO N A V A J O AREA
due to the Mobile Unit's invasion— ) / Kayeni
we had disturbed the Anasazi, spirits NATIONAL ~ Marsh Pass
of the Ancient Ones. And when sev- MONUMENT
eral of the Navajos developed sore
throats doubtless this was due to the
fact that a coyote had watered at the Cow Spring i/i g
spring!
Camp was pitched immediately be-
low the ruin, which is scaled by a 40-
foot ladder. Next morning the entire
ruin was carefully examined. Then
the sound of trowels and shovels of
the crew and the crunch and rumble
of a cement mixer echoed through the
magnificent canyonside setting. All toric cultural centers in this area: Chaco
loose stones were reset in soil mortar, Canyon (northwestern New Mexico),
duplicating the original. New mortar Mesa Verde (southwestern Colorado)
comes from disintegrated sandstone in and Kayenta (northeastern Arizona).
front of the refuse on the tloor of the Navajo National Monument's three cliff
dwellings represent the latter group.
canyon below the cave. When mixed
The Kayenta culture reached its peak
with water it becomes literally as hard WUPATKI
and then deteriorated rapidly. By 1300
as the rock itself. The work at Keet NAT. MON
A.D. the Cliff-dweller era was dead.
Seel consisted primarily of shoring up The rapid loss of population came from
wall foundations based on deep refuse a combination of circumstances: soil
which had been slipping down the two erosion, drouth, poor farming practices.
main terraces. Humphreys
Betatakin ("Hillside House") is the
Monument's most accessible ruin. It
Peak once had almost 150 rooms, of which
The entire central section of one more than 50 were residential, six cere-
wall of a prehistoric alley-way was dis- monial kivas, 13 open courts or patios,
mantled and reset because of a large about 30 storage and two grinding rooms.
hole that had developed in the floor Betatakin was discovered in 1909 by
adjacent to the wall. Pressure and im- Byron Cummings and John Wetherill.
The Monument headquarters area is lo-
pact of visitor travel would have caused cated near this ruin.
complete collapse in time. Keet Seel is the largest cliff ruin in
WALNUT CANYON
Archeologists believe the original ^ NATIMON. Arizona and one of the last tq be aban-
timbered ceilings plastered with mud doned by the ancients. It is reached on
horseback from Betatakin by an II-mile
will stand indefinitely, so long as
neither traffic nor rockslides damage
the roof-tops.
It is understandable that the Nav-
Nauajo primitive trail which crosses the canyon
stream many limes. The trip can be
made on foot, but it is a difficult hike.
Keet Seel was discovered in 1893 by
ajos were pleased to see the comple-
tion of this project—the spirit of the
National Richard Wetherill.
Inscription House lies 20 miles west
of Betatakin. It is the smallest of the
Anasazi is still too much in this iso-
lated canyon. Monument three ruins (approximately 75 rooms).
It was named from an inscription, sup-
posedly of Spanish origin, found
However, stabilization is a never- scratched into the plastered wall of one
ending project. And the problems arc The three cliff dwellings of Navajo of the rooms.
enormous, entailing a prodigious National Monument—Inscription House, Only facilities in the Monument are
amount of travel, time and labor with Keet Seel and Betatakin—are the most designated campgrounds and picnic
striking remains of ancient occupancy of areas. However, there are trading posts
seemingly endless amounts of photo- the canyon country of northeastern and guest ranches in Kayenta, Gould-
graphs and reports. Arizona. ing and Tuba City which offer modern
Wandering Indians settled in these accommodations. The main Monument
This past season the Navajo crew areas about 300 A.D. when farming be- Valley road remains unpaved from a
under the direction of Archeologist came more important than hunting in point about 20 miles north of Tuba City
Joel Shiner, my husband's assistant, their economy. With a more dependable to Kayenta.
gave the ruins of Chaco Canyon a face food supply, the population increased,
people began to be more sedentary, Visitors are not allowed to enter any
lifting. A project at Montczuma Castle crafts improved, and more permanent of the ruins, with the exception of In-
National Monument will presently be homes were built. By 1100, large villages scription house, unless accompanied by
of several hundred people each, as well a guide. Trail and hiking information
underway—stabilizing a pit-house, a to Keet Seel and Inscription House is
much earlier type of dwelling than the as many smaller communities, dotted
the Four Corners region of the South- available at Monument Headquarters.—
Castle. This will be an additional at- west. Navajo Monument Notes courtesy Na-
traction for visitors who arrive to take There evolved three distinct prehis- tional Park Service
a peep into the past.—END