Trophy Deer Stand Plans 4 X 6 Plans

4 x 6 Deer Stand Plan & Material List. Thank you for your interest in my deer stands. I have been hunting for 40 years and have seen just about all the types of hunting blinds imaginable. I have seen blinds that range in cost from $50.00 to $1,500.00. I have tried to come up with a plan that is economical, simple and easy to build. If you follow my plans you can build a stand that is comfortable, warm and ready to hunt. First you need to go to your lumberyard and pick up this list of materials. 1) 1--4'x8' sheet 5/8" CDX plywood 2) 6--4'x8' sheet 3/8" CDX plywood 3) 1--2"x4" x 8' treated 4) 2--2"x4" x 10' treated 5) 25--2"x2"x8' furring strips

6) 2--10' corrugated roofing 7) 2lbs 1 5/8" deck screws 8) 2lbs 3" deck screws 9) 30--1" wood grip screws for roof l0) 17--3" butt hinges 11) 6--3" barrel bolts 12) 2--3" hasps 13) 15' 1/4" Nylon rope 14) 7--1 x 2 x 8" furring strips (optional) Estimated cost of material $220.00. You will need a drill, circular saw, a screw bit and a 5/32 drill bit for your drill. So if you have all your tools and material ready, lets get started. Step 1. Base First step we will build the base to your stand. You need 1-2x4x8' and 2--2x4x10'. Cut 2--2x4's 69" long, 2-2x4's 48" long, 2-2x4's 45" long and assemble them as in Fig. A. Cut 1 piece of 5/8" plywood 48" x 72" and screw it down to the base frame. Step 2. Front frame: Cut 2--2x2x72", 2--2x2x69", 2--2x2x75", 1--2x2x25", 1-2x2x35" and assemble them as in Fig. B. Drill a 5/32" hole through the ends of the 2x2 so they wont split and screw them together with the 3" deck screws, it is not necessary to drill pilots for the screws that are not on the ends. Step 3.

Back Frame with door: Cut 2--2x2x72", 2--2x2x69", 2-2x2x45", 1--2x2x22 1/2", 1--2x2x9", using 3"deck screws assemble this section as in Fig. D. Don't forget to drill the pilot holes on the ends of the 2x2's. Step 4: Take the front frame and set it on the base and screw it down using 3" deck screws. Then take the back frame and set it on the base and screw it down likewise. "NOTE" you can install the back door section either right or left, which ever you prefer. Once you get these screwed down they should stand on their own. Step 5. Right and left end section frame: Cut 6--2x2x45", cut 4-2x2x45 7/16 with a 15% bevel at each end to fit the roof taper. Install these between the front and back sections as in Fig. C. (When referring to Fig. C, remember the front and back vertical 2x2's are existing, all you need to install are the horizontal sections.) Measure up from the floor 38" and screw one 45" 2x2 between the front and back wall. Measure up 12" more and place another 2x2 from front to back. Place one on the floor and screw it down, then place one of the angle cut 2x2's at the top. Repeat these steps on the opposite side. Then measure and locate the remaining 2 angle cut 2x2's in the roof for additional support. Space them equally apart. Now your stand is completely framed and ready for the plywood. Step 6.

First lets cut the 3/8" plywood to the correct dimensions. Rip 1--4x8 sheet into two pieces 24"x96", then cut one of these pieces into 1--28" long, 1--40"long and 1--12"long this is the short half of the front, top, bottom and window. Take the other piece and cut 1--62"long for the door and 1--12" long for above the door. Cut one piece 48"x40", 1--48"x12", 1-48"x22" this is the rest of the back. We already have the short half of the front so take another sheet and cut 1-48"x28", 1--48"x40", and 1--48"x12" top, bottom and windows. Right and left side cut 2--48x28", 2--48x40", 2-48x12", top, bottom and windows. Step 7. Screw the plywood to the frame work, top and bottom sections only, starting at the bottom and working up. This will square up the stand. Notice that the plywood protrudes 2" below the floor, this is very important because it locks the base to the frame; screw it in good and tight. When you reach the top two side sections, screw them up temporarily and scribe the angle cut to be made on them, make the cut then screw them back up permanently. Step 8. Door; Cut 2--2x2x58", 3--2x2x19" assemble these as in Fig. E. (Make sure you drill the pilot holes) once you have completed this screw the piece of plywood (24x62") to the door making sure it is flush at the top and on the hinge side and protruding at the bottom and on the right side of the frame. The door is now ready to hinge and hang. Use 4 hinges.

Step 9. Windows: Cut 6--2x2x44 1/2", 2--2x2x68 1/2", 10--2x2x8 1/2". Now assemble the window frames as in Fig. F. Three small ones and one large one. (Don't forget the pilot holes). Once you have completed the frames, screw the plywood down to them letting it protrude 1 3/4" at each end. the windows are now ready to hinge and hang. Use 4 hinges on the front window and 3 on all the rest. "NOTE" You can cut peepholes in the windows and cover them with Plexiglas, this will adhere fine with silicone sealant. Step l0. ROOF: You should have one sheet of 3/8" plywood left, 48 x 72". Cut two 10' pieces of corrugated metal to 60"lengths. Take the plywood and screw it down to the roof. I know it don't cover all the way but that trophy buck will never notice, besides we're going to cover it with the corrugated metal. Arrange the metal on the roof overlapping the way you prefer and screw it down using the 1" wood grip screws. Be careful to align the screws with your rafter supports. Step 11. Cover the corners with the 1x2 furring strips if you prefer and paint your stand well to keep the plywood from deterating. To hold the windows open I use a nylon rope about 1/4" dia. Drill a hole through the bottom of the window and another hole above the window. Take the nylon rope and run it out through the hole in the window tying a knot in the rope so that it won't pull through, and back through the other hole.

Now the window can be raised and the rope tightened to hold it open. Drive a nail or a screw in the 2x2 to loop the rope over to hold the window open. To hold the windows shut use the barrel bolts, affix them to the windows and the door. To secure the door when you leave your stand use the two hasps, snap them shut or lock them. You can put carpet on the floor and walls inside to make your stand more comfortable, you can install shelves below and above the windows. Best of all you can install a portable heater. You can do all this with the money you saved by building your own stand.