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Wallet Pattern

Wallet Pattern

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Published by katie-roberts-8799
Just something I dreamed up one day. I haven't actually made it. :)
Just something I dreamed up one day. I haven't actually made it. :)

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Published by: katie-roberts-8799 on Dec 15, 2009
Copyright:Attribution Non-commercial

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10/15/2012

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Wallet Pattern

Materials: Outer fabric, lining fabric, heavy interfacing (such as timtex, fusible), interfacing (fusible), Velcro squares, 8” zipper NOTE: Use a ½” seam allowance throughout, unless otherwise stated. Panel A: 8 ¾” x 9 ½” Panel B: 8 ¾” x 4 ¼” Panel C: 8 ¾” x 4 ¾” Panel D: 8 ¾” x 4” Panel E: 8 ¾” x 3 ¼” Panel F: 8 ¾” x 2 ½” Panel G: 8 ¾” x 6 ¾” Panel H: 8 ¾” x 3 ¾” Panel I: 8 ¾” x 4 ¼” Panel J: 3” x 5” Cut from Outer fabric: • One of each: A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, J Cut from lining fabric: • One of each: A, B, C, D, E, F, I Cut from heavy interfacing: • One A panel Cut from regular interfacing: • One of each: B, C, H, J DIRECTIONS: 1. Take the interfacing panels A, B, C, H, and J and attach them by machine basting just short of a ½” seam allowance to their corresponding fabric panels, fusible side facing the wrong side of the outer fabric and the nonfusible side facing the wrong side of the lining fabric (when there is no corresponding outer fabric panel, use the corresponding lining fabric, and face the non-fusible side of the interfacing to the wrong side of the lining fabric). Trim the seam allowances of the interfacing only - to reduce bulk. 2. Take panel G; place the male side of the Velcro in the middle of one of the longer edges, 1” from the bottom of the raw edge. Topstitch in place. 3. Take panel J. Fold the fabric in lengthwise, interfaced/wrong sides together. Gently iron the crease. Unfold, then fold the short raw edges in ½” towards the interfaced/wrong side and press hard. Next, fold in the long raw edges in ½” towards the interfaced/wrong side. Press hard. Keep the edges all folded in for the next step. Fold the panel in half lengthwise along the crease you’ve already made. Pin in place and topstitch all the way around. Iron once done, making sure to fuse the interfacing. 4. Center the female part of the Velcro on the panel you just made, topstitching in place.

5. Take panel I. Lay it flat right side up, long sides going horizontally and the short sides going vertically to how you’re looking at it. Take the zipper, with the zipper pull right side up, and lay the wrong side of the zipper on the top of the panel, overlapping the top raw edge. Center the zipper however you want (it’s probably a good idea to line up the end with the zipper pull to the end of the fabric, and cut of the end of the zipper that’s extra). Stitch the panel and the zipper together using the zipper foot. 6. Take panel G. Along the short edge without the Velcro, fold the raw edge under ½” towards the wrong side and press it flat. Lay this folded edge along the top of the zipper (on top of the stitches that attaches the zipper to the lining), centering the zipper, and pin (or glue) in place. Topstitch the panel onto the zipper using a zipper foot attachment. 7. Take panel H. Center the end of the tab - that does not have the Velcro attached - on the long end of the panel. Adjust the length as desired and as needed. The tab should be facing in, up towards the opposite long end, not down. Machine baste just short of a ½” seam allowance. Trim off the excess (or keep it long, just in case you change your mind about how long it should be). Make sure that during the rest of the sewing, it does not get tangled up elsewhere. 8. Take panel H. Along the long edge without the tab, fold the raw edge under ½” towards the wrong side and press it flat. Lay this folded edge along the bottom of the zipper (with the zipper pull facing up towards you, move the lining fabric out of the way), and pin or glue in place. Topstitch the panel onto the zipper using the zipper foot, making sure the lining fabric does not get caught up in the machine. The outer part of the wallet is now done. Put aside. 9. Take panel F in both the lining and outer fabrics. Place right sides together, pin, and stitch along one of the long edges. Turn so that the right sides of the fabric face outward, press pretty (which will fuse the interfacing, if there is any), and topstitch along the finished edge. Machine baste just short of a ½” seam allowance down the sides and along the bottom of the panel. 10. Repeat step 5 for panels B, C, D, and E as well. The only difference is that panels E and D will not be fused, but C and B will. You should be left with five panels that are of varying lengths but the same widths, topstitched along one edge, and machine basted down the sides and along the bottom edges. 11. Take the finished panels C, D, E, and F. Line them up so that they match on the bottom and side edges, but don’t match at the top. They should look like the diagram. F should be on top of E, which is on top of D, which is then on top of C. Machine baste them all together, lined up and pinned carefully, just short of a ½” seam allowance. 12. Mark the halfway point of that last piece (which is 3 7/8” in from either side). Then stitch up the middle, backstitching at each end. This will create double the spaces for your credit cards.

13. Take panel A in the lining fabric. Lay it flat on the work surface, right side up, short sides horizontal, and long sides vertical to how you’re facing the fabric. Place the piece with panels C, D, E, and F, raw sides matching, to the bottom of panel A. Place panel B raw sides matching to the top of panel A. Refer to the diagram for additional help. Pin the pieces to panel A, machine baste in place just short of a ½” seam allowance, backstitching wherever the pockets meet the lining. 14. Next, take the piece with panels G and H and the piece with panels A, B, C, D, E, and F and place them right sides together, matching up all raw edges. Be sure that the lining is facing panel H (in other words, it’s facing down to make a pocket)! Pin in place and stitch around (make tight corners or pretty curves, whatever you want), leaving a space to turn. Trim off the corners or curves, being sure not to clip the stitching. 15. Turn right side out, and press carefully, since you are fusing again. Be sure to tuck the open seams in and press them pretty as well. 16. Topstitch around the edges, backstitching at both ends. 17. Finally, take your iron and gently make a crease in the middle of the wallet so that it closes nicely. The iron makes it easier to fold since the heavy interfacing can be tough. 18. Try out the awesome Velcro. Phew.

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