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editorial consultant Sarah Dougherty
Kora, Marco Rucola, Katrina Valkenburg, Es Dee, Kayti
coordinator & marketing Miranti Amandya, Natalia Iswara
photographers Dewandra, Sarah
graphic designers DeKa
Gede Sudiartawan, Arif Junaidi
BCP Secretariat (attn. Kathryn)
Travel Works Communication International J1. Kesari no. 60a, Sanur 80223, Bali, Indonesia
Tel: 62 - 361 - 284095
Fax: 62 - 361 - 270189 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: www.balichefs.com
pre press & printing by PT. Dian Rakyat
TASTE Newsletter can be downloaded at www.balichefs.com
4 TASTE I November - December 2009
Place Your Bets
Canggu Club is fast becoming the venue of choice for the big race, which all Australians know as The Melbourne Cup. This year the club starts the revelry at the indecent hour of 10 am with live race coverage, champagne, buffet lunch, fashions on the field, sweepstakes and rumour has it, a sly bookie or two. This year, in addition to the single entry tickets available to members for Rp150,000 and non-members at Rp250,000 (including champagne cocktail and lunch), the club is offering VIP tents. For $1500, companies, or friends, can book a private marquee on the lawn and invite ten guests to enjoy the race, enjoy lunch, complimentary sweepstake tickets and race books. Company banners will be competing for space among the race colours and fashionable fillies.
For bookings contact Canggu Club on email@example.com
6 TASTE I November· December 2009
~ Festive Baking at Carrefour
"Christmas is always a very busy time for bakers," explains Denis at Carrefour. "It is a time when customers are looking for traditional products associated with so many treasured memories." Always anticipating the demands of his customers, Denis has been busy testing festive recipes from around the world. To sample his culinary delights of the world, drop in to Carrefour's bakery. If you have a special request this jolly baker is happiest when his customers walk away happy.
Contact Carrefour on (0361) 8477 222
KuDeTa Joins Mozaic ~ on Miele List
Mozaic has until now been the only Bali restaurant recognised by the judges of the Miele guide. Joining them now in Asia's top ten list is the stylish eatery that becomes the hottest party venue when it counts, KuDeTa. Bali's Mozaic Restaurant Gastronomique and KuDeTa have been voted among the Top 10 Restaurants in Asia in the 2009 edition of the Miele Guide. The Miele Guide claims to be Asia's first truly independent and authoritative guide to the region's finest restaurants, written by food experts. "We were aware we were in the running and went to Singapore to collect our award, it's great," says Donni at KuDeTa. Looks like New Year's Eve will be busier than ever at the luxe venue. For enquiries contact: firstname.lastname@example.org
Using different and more economical cuts of meat isn't about cutting costs as much as it is about producing more flavourful dishes. While the mouth may enjoy the smooth, buttery texture of wagyu, around the world people are looking back to the days of a simple juicy steak and a flavoursome roast.
10 TASTE I November - December 2009
Many Executive Chefs get too busy to cook, which is why Oscar Perez prefers working in a smaller hotel. The Danish chef who has put St Regis Resort, Bali on the map is one of the most enthusiastic cooks on the island and far from ready to hang up his jacket.
He can wax lyrical for hours about food and following our discussion on using a wider variety of meat than we are currently seeing on five-star menus, he offered to show Taste what could be achieved using lesser cuts of meat and local products.
"There is so much innovation in food now, genetically produced breeds, molecular gastronomy, the reaction is a trend going back to real flavours and textures in food. It is bound to happen," he explains.
For inspiration for rustic dishes that are full of flavour, he harks back to his Danish roots.
"In Denmark we are very proud of our local food and so almost everything we use is local. The breed of cows we use for steaks and roast beef is the French Charolais."
Naturally here this breed is not easily found so Oscar uses Australian angus from 1824, Australian wagyu and his favourite, dry-aged US beef He is also very impressed with the local wagyu product, Tonketsu from Suntory. His pork is local, from Mama's and the results are
A Modern Man
The man responsible for creating Bangkay at the Nikko seems very much a traditionalist and Nikko is committed to quality and freshness before innovation, the chef behind it however has very modern manners.
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above: wood-tired bread at Kayu Api below: Ollivierwith his philodendrons
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Time and again I am struck by what happy people bakers are. According to BCP member, Denis, baker at Bali's Carrefour, Denis, it is because what they create gives people pleasure. Perhaps it is that simple.
Former chef, Jean Philippe Ollivier is one such baker, a man so obsessed with his bread that he has rebuilt his wood-fired oven eight times in the five years since he embarked on this latest leg of his culinary journey.
The results speak for themselves, bread that is so wonderful to eat you can sense the incredible commitment in every mouthful, it's crusty and chewy and full of flavour.
"I had been working as a chef for over thirty years and first came to Indonesia twenty two years ago," he explains. His first job in Indonesia was as Executive Sous Chef at Bali Hyatt.
"I was the opening chef / F&B manager at Amanwana and over the years I have been part of many other opening teams including Maxim's Restaurant in New York. My last
job was Executive Chef and F&B Director at Bali Intan Resort. When the second bomb went off I decided to take a break," he explains.
He built his original oven to make bread purely for himself, but he got hooked, literally.
"I really wanted to have Warisan as my first client. When I took my samples to see Chef Doudou he placed an order straight away. At that time I was making the bread by hand and it nearly killed me filling that first order," he laughs.
The wood fired bread is created on a natural starter, sea salt and reverse osmosis water. The starter is kneaded at slow speed and then proofed for at least eighteen hours at room temperature before being chilled, six hours to cool it down from 28 degrees C to 4 degrees C, ( the starter is cooled down by using -18 degree C ice pack) it is kept in a cooler at 4 degree C for at least 18 hours. The dough is kneaded again at slow speed and rested for one hour, cut and rested for another hour, loaves are
They say that everything is bigger in Texas. WeD after discovering the vastness of the holding.f owned and managed by Australian Agricultural Company Ltd (AAco), that myth can be pretty uell buried
With pristine farms that cover almost 7 million hectares or approximately 1% of Australia's land mass and populated with more than half a million head of cattle, AAco is today the world's largest beef producer and Australia's biggest Wagyu producer.
AAco is a major player in the Asian market with its multi-award winning 1824 Premium Beef and Wagyu brands - Master Kobe, Kobe Cuisine and Darling Downs Wagyu.
AAco's Sales and Marketing Manager, Alastair Ronald, explained that the key to the company's success is consistency and attention to detail.
"Consistent supply and quality is the backbone of our company brands. To achieve this it is essential that each link in the supply chain follows
exacting procedures set out for their specific roll in delivering the final product to processing and end users.
The consistently high quality of AAco's beef can be partially attributed to genetics (40%) but the remaining 60% that affects final outcome is attributed to nutrition and herd management. The key areas are breeding, growing out on pasture, grain finishing and processing.
Every animal that comes through the supply chain system must pass stringent specifications at every check point to be eligible for the branded beef program. This is true for both the 1824 Premium Beef and Wagyu brands," he explains.
AAco is one of Australia's original producers of Wagyu beef with three highly sought after brands based on
18:24' .... ,-
_o". ,.' -
Darling Downs Wagyu'
marbling and genetics. Master Kobe, described as the very best beef money can buy is in high demand from leading chefs around the world. It is produced from full blood and pure bred Wagyu cattle and has a marble score of 9 or greater.
Kobe Cuisine and Darling Downs Wagyu are produced from full blood Wagyu bulls crossed with beef cows to produce a flavoursome and uniquely Australian product, ranging from marble score 4 and up.
All cattle from AAco's branded beef program are identified with radio frequency tags soon after birth, which allows for whole of life traceability. DNA samples are collected to allow progeny testing and peace of mind for end users. Any piece of meat packed as 1824 or wagyu brands can be verified using DNA, which allows efficient traceability back to the animal's property of origin.
Free from hormone growth promotants and antibiotics, AAco's wagyu spend approximately 365 days at AAco's world class Aronui Feedlot, eating almost 4,500 kg (10,000 lbs) of a specially formulated grain ration before leaving at a weight of approximately 720 kg (1,600 lbs),
Aronui feedlot is recognized as Australia's leading Wagyu Feedlot, currently feeding 17,500 head of full blood and cross bred Wagyu.
Apart from the sheer size of its beef production and land holdings, AAco also brings a wealth of experience to the Australian beef industry, leading the way in environmental management as well as being a member of "The Greenhouse Gas Challenge". AAco stake its reputation on the flavour, tenderness and consistency of its beef brands.
Distributed in Indonesia by SukandaDjaya (0361 -751655)
For more information see their website: www.aaco.com.au
Behind A Great Restaurant
Jonny Schwass opened the doors of Restaurant Schwass in October 2007. After twenty years as a chef, travelling the world, he finally felt ready to return home and open his own restaurant. In a very short span of time it has become of of New Zealand's most successful restaurants. Recognised widely by the New Zealand press and finalist for Cuisine Magazine's Restaurant of the Year in both 2008 and 2009 as well as the winner of South Island Restaurant of the Year at last year's Salon Culinaire, Restaurant Schwass has made a big impact in a short time.
With a small kitchen and a small team, Jonny Schwass prepares 90% of his menu with a RATIONAL Self Cooking Centre®, which allows him incredible flexibility with his menu and which, he claims, has made him a better chef
Taste interviewed Jonny about his restaurant and his experience with RATIONAL.
Q: How many years did you work as a chef before the opportunity to own your own restaurant came up?
A: I have been cooking for twenty years and only in the past two have I been confident enough in my own
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personal style to open my eponymous restaurant.
Q: What was your approach to this very personal venture?
A: The restaurant is called Restaurant Schwass because it is a very personal one, I write the menus, design the wine list and have final say over all matters regarding the restaurant, I am very lucky that I have a talented and loyal staff that allow me the creative freedom to change the menus often. I am constantly inspired by ingredients and the availability of great produce gives us the ability to develop the menu on a daily basis
Q: How did you plan your kitchen? A: It is a small restaurant that seats 38 downstairs and has a private dining room for 16 upstairs. The kitchen is designed for three chefs to be able to produce great food in limited space. The only reason we can do what we do in the space we have is because of the RATIONAL Self Cooking Centre®.
Q: Why did you choose RATIONAL? A: It is the best unit on the market, no question. I couldn't imagine running my restaurant without one. We produce nearly 90% of our entire
menu with one piece of equipment, The RATIONAL Self Cooking Centre® 101.
Q: What are your favourite functions? A: Overnight roast for pork shoulders, steam for anglaise, sous vide and low temperature cooking, the ability to set to half power for long slow cooking, ability to prove and bake bread 5 minutes before guests arrive, the ability to move quickly between cooking programs during a busy service and the self cleaning functions.
Q: What has proved the greatest benefit of cooking with RATIONAL technology?
A: We have not wasted anything through overcooking in the past year, custard bases, breads, brulees, trays of duck confit, 6 pork shoulders roasted overnight. When you understand the basics of the RATIONAL you become a better chef and produce better tasting food, and that's what keeps our guests coming back.
Millie Chan Sales Director
International Partner Business (Asia Pacific)
Singapore Mobile: + 65 9770 9820
E: email@example.com W: www.rational-international.com
News from Doctor Rocket's Organic Farm
By Dr. Marco "RUCOLA" de Leonardis
As Thanksgiving is very close by and Christmas is not for away, it's time to start thinking of what is going inside the bird. This is why in this issue I am going to write about the herb Sage, whose most common use today is as flavoring for meat and poultry stuffings.
Sage is native to countries surrounding the Mediterranean Sea and has been consumed in these regions for thousands of years, especially because it has impressive therapeutic properties. The scientific name for Sage, Salvia oflicinalis, is derived from the Latin salvere, to
be saved, in reference to its curative properties.
The Romans used to say:
Cur moriatur homo cui Salvia crescit in horto?
'Why should a man die whilst sage grows in his garden?'
Sage was in so much demand in China during the 17th century, appreciated for the delicious tea beverage that it makes, that the Chinese are said to have traded three cases of tea leaves (camellia sinensis) to the Dutch for one case of sage leaves.
According to medical herbalists, Purple Sage, is the preferred medicinal variety.
Its power in boosting natural estrogen production make it particularly beneficial for the night sweats and hot flushes of menopause and generally helps the body to adjust to hormonal changes. In the form of an infusion (15 gr of leaves in 250 ml of boiling water), thanks to the volatile oil thujone, sage has an antiseptic and antibiotic action and is very effective for the cure of all affections of the mouth: to relieve sore throats and, as a gargle, to encourage the healing process, especially for mouth ulcers and sore or bleeding gums.
As a tea (to make it more palatable, infuse 15 gr of fresh sage leaves in a liter of boiling water for half an hour, add 30 gr of sugar and the juice of 1 lemon and then strain), sage has been administered, taken internally, to
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both calm and stimulate the nervous system. Research published in the June 2003 issue of Pharmacological Biochemical Behavior confirms what herbalists have long known: sage, due to the cholinesterase it contains, is an outstanding memory enhancer. In a trial of 42 patients, sage extract was compared to placebo in patients with mild to moderate Alzheimer's, and found that the cognitive function of those taking the sage was significantly better at three months. For culinary use sage, being highly aromatic, is best used fresh, when its flavor can be described as a mix of rosemary, pine and mint. Because of its strong flavor, it can overwhelm, so should be used sparingly. Unlike the more delicate herbs, it can be added at the beginning of cooking and pairs nicely with other strongly flavored herbs, such as rosemary, thyme, savory, and oregano as well as the lemon herbs. As I was mentioning at the beginning sage is a must in the preparation of poultry stuffings, most notably the big bird,
the turkey. However, m Luropean and Mediterranean cuisines, it has many more uses. Burro e salvia is a method of frying sage leaves in a mixture of olive oil and butter, until they are crispy, invented by the Romans, and still used in Italian cuisine as a condiment gnocchi and pumpkin ravioli. It blends well with mild cheeses. Try a little sage on a grilled cheese sandwich made with fontina cheese and dark bread. Marinate goat cheese with olive oil, peppercorns, garlic, and some small sage leaves. Or add one-quarter cup minced sage leaves to an 8-ounce package of cream cheese and let sit for at least an hour before spreading on bagel chips. It is the herb of choice in the preparation of liver pate, mitigating its rich flavour, thus giving the dish a subtle sublime finish. Try covering a pork roast with sage leaves before roasting; or gently separate with your hands the skin from the breast meat of a chicken or turkey, rub a little butter on the meat, then place a small
I'm going to start this article with a confession: I'm a wine snob. It all began when I was lucky (or unlucky) enough to meet and fall in love with a wine journalist some 25 years ago. He taught me about all things vinous and from that moment to this day, I have drunk my way around the wine world, speaking both literally and metaphorically.
Before moving to Bali, I was used to receiving upward of ten wine samples each week. Some were, of course, outstanding examples of their ilk, others were more run-of-the-mill and it is these I'm going to discuss in high-wine-priced Bali.
Although I would suggest that there are few rotten wines put into
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bottles, there are a number that I'd pass up on if it weren't for the fact that there's often not much choice.
What to do with a pretty ordinary wine if you're used to drinking well (beyond one's means in my case) - and I'm not talking about wine that is oxidised by being left out of the fridge for days on end?
The answer may lie in the new trend for winetails - cocktails made using wine as the base. This word, coined by the makers of Yellow Tail in Australia, has taken a hold in the cocktail crazed United States and will no doubt become a well-used term globally within nano-seconds.
The Spanish have long been turning simple wines into something
far more palatable, Sangria, as have many other European nations who began making mulled wine as an answer to storage and quality problems.
Yellow Tail is the largest imported brand into the United States (approximately 10 million bottles annually) and its reach is globally humungous due in part to its fruity appeal to the virgin palate and its value for money.
Yellow Tail employed the services of a mixologist named Trudy Thomas, beverage director for the Camelback Inn in Scottsdale, Arizona who began developing cocktails using the company's wines. She then put together a little book comprising 40-
Bali has too many restaurants to even count, and that's not including the ones which come and go before anyone has even really noticed. But now that western imported products are getting harder to find and more expensive to 'source: maybe we should all think about the good local alternatives to western food.
In Sleepy Sanur (which is actually not snoring that much anymore) try LA PAU on the By Pass .... not too far from Natrabu where it started its life in the parking lot on Fridays and Saturdays from 10 pm ON. Now located in its own leafy garden, LA PAU specializes in home cooked food from Minangkabau or West Sumatra. Metrus, (who claims his name is from menderita terus or suffer constantly?), learned to cook from his mom, one of the long term cooks at another Padang restaurant. Metrus serves a selection of traditional Padang dishes and of course has rendang and sambal hijau but lots of other things as well. New items are vegetarian Rendang Nangka (breadfruit) and Buntut Asem Pedes (hot and sour oxtail). Monday nights there is (usuallyl) great music from the Tropical Transit band who have been entertaining expats for years and Fridays features a blues band. Lots of beer on music nights!! Closed on Sundays. Mon-Sat lOam-II pm.
Over in Renon, to sample quintessential Sundanese food, try Ikan Bakar Cianjur. It is an assault on the senses with some of the worst acoustics in town, but also some of the best fish. They have a large selection of deep fried or grilled fish, several really nice veggie greens including something like ferns and a fabulous tahu in a sauce that is truly scrumptious. That's the good bit. The bad bit is the noise and the fact that there is not a non smoking area. So,
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go early and sit where you can't see any smokers. Service is fast and prices are very reasonable.
In downtown Denpasar, there is a hideaway restaurant next to the old Samudra called AYAM RICA RICA and they also have a branch on the road from Iman Bonjol that goes to Kerobokan. There is a selection of great hot pots, the food that finishes cooking at your table ... beef, seafood, veggie only with lots of chili and kangkung. Their soups are nice and the sambal mangga to die for. And of course, ayam rica rica from Menado and lots of choice in grilled fish.
Service is generally ok unless you go in when it's full, and then its better to choose another night. Prices very reasonable.
On the Hero side of that street near Ayam Rica Rica is MIE BANDUNG, one of the small kiosk places lining
that road. This place has really tasty Mie Ayam with no extra seasoning necessary. They also have a vegetarian MIE HIJAU which is nice. Noodles and tea for 2 comes to about Rp. 40,000. Of course you have to be up for street side eating, but some of us look forward to a meal at a place like this .... a nice Sunday lunch place.
Checking out the local cafes is a culinary adventure that provides inspiration and an introduction local ingredients you may not know of, but which can add new elements to many of the Western dishes we cook.
Looking to the local food on street level can be illuminating and in our increasingly global community influences are crossing more than the street, they are crossing oceans.
Clever cooks and fascinated foodies are discovering there is more to Indonesian cusisine than nasi goreng.
Exotic cocktails on the rocks
He may have hung up his chef's jacket but Ayana Resort's Food and Beverage Director Marc Dobell is still a cook at heart.
Taste asked some of our leading chefs and contributors what they would like for Christmas. While there were a few surprises, most of them wanted something extra in their kitchens. For our part, the staff at Taste would like some time off, to get ready to bring you a bigger, better magazine in 2010. We hope all your wishes come true!
Chris Salans (Mozaic):
Professionally for Christmas I wish Santa would send me a blast freezer! chiller. They are very difficult to get and cost a fortune. But if I had one I could also do miracles with it!
Personally I wouldn't mind a set of synthetic wicker furniture to put on my porch and around our pool. It would allow me to invite more people over to our house!!!
Christian Hinckley (Amandari):
Thanks for the note. Tough questions. Here is what I want.
1. Personally I would love to receive 1 pack of sour patch kids (American candy), 1 bottle of Red Hook IPA (American beer) and dinner and lodgings at Michel Bras in Laguiole, France.
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2. Professionally I am hoping for a thermo immersion circulator. To better help with sous vide cooking.
Penny Williams (Alila Manggis):
Christmas, Christmas Christmas ....
I wish that Farther Christmas would drop down my kitchen exhaust a handsome, muscle rippling thinly clad gentleman, that can whip up all my favorite dishes, keep the fridge stocked with veuve Cliequot and desires to obey my every command.
Professionally I would love a set of Japanese knives. Very sexy!
Andrew Skinner (Bulgari):
This Christmas I would like an envelope "with a little bit like a get out of jail for free card - but a get out of work card including 1 week full
board, sleep in pass and unlimited relaxing on a Balinese sandy beach with my 2 girls and wife.
For people who have never played Monopoly I am sorry I cannot help if you don't get it !!.
Professionally I want 2 new shiny
Paco Jet machines these little
babies are the ultimate in delivering the lightest, silkiest and smoothest ice creams and sorbets ever!!!
Philip Mimbimi (Huu):
A. For myself, I'd like some new plants in my garden at home (and time to plant them?)
B. At work I'm dreaming of a wood fired grill with ample amounts of mesquite, and apple wood!
Raul Deschu (Padma):
Profesionally I'm after a supplier that has anything on stock at any time, and lower import taxes!!
Personally, this will come as no surprise to many chefs, I'd like more time with my family.
Katrina Valkenburg our wine writer, isn't asking for too much, "easy - a RoboJet!"
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